flannels - Lancaster Islamic Society

Transcription

flannels - Lancaster Islamic Society
Flannels
autumn winter 2008 menswear & womenswear
www.flannelsfashion.com
The best fashion
in store and online
Plus
Cyndi Lauper
The Strokes’ Albert Hammond Jr
Triumph Motorcycles
Hyères Festival of Fashion & Photography
Cyprus Boutique Travel
30-06-2008
19:30
Pagina 1
www.canali.it
0040708_FlannelsMagUK
Preferred Supplier to the
2008 European RYDER CUP Team
FLANNELS_MMJFW08.6
8/7/08
1:48 PM
Page 1
FLANNELS
AW08 Fashion
12 & 14
16
22/23
24
26
28
30/31
36
38
40/43
44
46/47
57
80/81
Face to Face – Customer Polaroids
Truth or Dare – Malene Birger’s seductive exploration of art and fashion
Ossie Clark – we speak to Avsh Alom Gur, Creative Director
Liberation Classics – Bamford & Sons updating craftsmanship
Wild Winter Couture – Ramosport’s Julien Fournie on reinterpreting heritage
Hoss Intropia – Spain’s most bohemian fashionistas
The Jeans Star – Marithé + François Girbaud go cosmic
Nature Couture – Etro’s nature versus fashion for autumn
Aim High – Nigel Cabourn’s celebration of Edmund Hilary’s Everest ascent
Beat the Ecosystem – CP Company and Stone Island fight the weather
Jeffery West –Guy West on alternative footwear
Denim Super Snobs – PRPS denim for connoiseurs
Moncler – from mountains to catwalk
Tom Ford – luxury menswear that the Great Gatsby would be proud of
Music & Lifestyle
20
48/51
52
54/56
92/93
94
Triumph – 50th Anniversary of the Bonneville
True Colours – We caught up with eighties icon, Cyndi Lauper
Albert Hammond Jr – The Strokes’ guitarist on his new solo album
Hyères Festival of fashion & photography
Aphrodite Class – Cyprus cool in the boutique hotels and spas
Everybody Icon – Stocktons interiors for contemporary chic
Fashion Shoots
Womenswear
32/35
58/65
Enchanted Garden
Shadow Play
Menswear
66/72
84/90
Collision Course
The Deepest Cut
Accessories
74/79
From thy wardrobe bring thy chiefest treasure
Published for Flannels by Flux Magazine
Editor Lee Taylor
Fashion Director Claire Lomax
Art Director John Walsh
Editorial Assistant Rachel Edwards
Photography & Illustration
Haidee Augusta, Antony Crook, Coco, Joachim Norvik,
Clare Prentice, Tom van Schelven, Sophie Christian and
Samantha Toro Paz at www.hoyfashion.co.uk
Styling
Britta Burger, Amechi Ihenacho, Joe Miller, Camilla Pole,
Yasuhiro Takehisa
Words
Rachel Edwards, Sanyika Odiete, Elizia Volkmann,
Leanne Rae Wierzba
Cover
photography Clare Prentice, styling Britta Burger,
makeup Megumi Matsuno, Hair Sassoon Creative Team
| sassoon.com, model Agniezka Golebiewska @ Next
wearing leather button jacket by Patrizia Pepe, £495.
4
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
Flannels,
Unit 6, Waterside,
Wharfside Commerce Park,
Trafford Park, Manchester,
M17 1WD, UK
Tel: +44 (0)161 931 2550
Fax: +44 (0)161 931 2559
Email [email protected]
Marketing / PR [email protected]
www.flannelsfashion.com
Flux Magazine,
42 Edge Street,
Manchester,
M4 1HN, UK
Tel: +44 (0) 161 832 0300
Email [email protected]
www.fluxmagazine.com
The views expressed in this magazine are those of the
respective contributors and are not necessarily those of the
publisher and editorial staff. Reproduction in part or in full
is forbidden without the written consent of the publisher.
n ew yor k
b o ston
p r ov i n c e tow n
to kyo
osa ka
h o n g ko n g
ta i pe i
man i la
jaka rta
www. m a r c j ac o b s . c o m
ch i cag o
kua la l u m pu r
s ha n g ha i
san fr a n c i sc o
sava n na h
beij ing
los a n g e l e s
beirut
a l kho bar
du ba i
co le photog raph e d by j u e r g e n teller
i stan b u l
pa r i s
co p e n hag e n
m os cow
ab u dhab i
kuwai t c i ty
j e d dah
zegna.com
FlannelsMag_420x297_acc.ez1.indd1 1
29-07-2008 9:14:20
ADIDAS!'ADIDASTHE'LOBETHE3TRIPESMARKAND9AREREGISTEREDTRADEMARKSOFTHEADIDAS'ROUP9OHJI9AMAMOTOISAREGISTEREDTRADEMARKOF9OHJI9AMAMOTO)NC
Y-3.COM
Flannels News
Tribute to YSL
YSL continue to offer the perfect platform to preach from with
their cult platforms. A must have cult buy for a few seasons, the
‘Tribute’ sandal with its retro-vamp criss-cross, T-strap design
and platform sole on a 4 inch heel has been spotted on Kylie
Minogue, Gwen Stefani and Victoria Beckham. This season the
sandals are in classic suede in purple, turquoise and classic black
– all with gold piping. Plus any true fashionista is a fan of the
demure Mary Jane and the fantastic patent heeled pumps are the
ultimate in uber-cool for this season. Divine.
Wedding Boutique
A wedding dress is the most important dress choice you’ll ever
make, and hopefully one you’ll only make once! With so many
spectacular
designer dresses
and gowns emerging from the collections this season, there is an
amazing choice available. Flannels have dresses from the best
European collections – from Roberto Cavalli and Dior to Prada
(like this ‘Ivory Fluid Satin Rose Dress’ by Dior £2355) so you can
make it a real style statement, and a designer investment. And
not forgetting the other half with our in store Made to Measure
service with European and British tailoring labels available.
Amal Guessous
How you get from leather to cashmere is
anybody’s guess, but when you see the
cashmere from Amal Guessous it’s a little
less of a leap. Morroccan born Guessous
started manufacturing leather and silver
goods in 1989, with fans including Mickey
Rourke and Billy Idol. So from leather to
cashmere? Well you cover the woollen
preserve of cosy weekends in innovative,
intricate tatoo designs to get a second skin
fit for a biker, on cashmere. This could only
come from Los Angeles – but absolutely
loving the contradiction between tatoos
and cashmere, we have selected standout
Guessous cashmere crew necks and
hoodies to sit alongside our sterling silver
Guessous collection.
Stone Island Shadow Project
Stone Island have delved into their archives to explore the
technical performance of their clothing. From a discourse
between Stone Island owner and creative director, Carlo Rivetti,
and the design team, Acronym, the new Stone Island ‘Shadow
Project’ is a collection that integrates the wearer, their
environment and the materials. Divided into Proof, Augment,
Resist and Skin, the ‘Shadow Project’ reinforces the idea of
investing in a second skin. So while seasons may change, it’s
reassuring to know that Stone Island have created something
that won’t let you down, whatever the weather.
10
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
Prada Fondazione
Of course, we all know Prada for fashion, but with the
Fondazione Prada, Miuccia Prada is also a supporter of
innovative contemporary visual arts. This summer, the Milan
based exhibition space was reimagined with tent like pavilions
inside which animations by renowned Swedish artist, Nathalie
Djurberg, were projected. Djurberg’s small plasticine figures
showed human beings at their most crass, psychopathic, and
disarming accompanied by fidgety music, composed by fellow
Swede, Hans Berg. The book of the show by Germano Celant
(published by Progetto Prada Arte) is available now.
Toywatch Fluo
If you are on the lookout for the hottest
watch of the moment, then TOYWATCH’s
eye-popping FLUO is one for you.
Bringing a flash of colour to our
wardrobes this winter, the bright colour
palette of the Fluo watches are a true
energy booster for all fashionistas who
want to add an extravagant touch to their
style. The ultra colorful watches are
available in hot pink, lemon, lime, sea blue,
orange and white, all featuring Toywatch’s
quartz movement, with watch-case and
strap in plasteramic with butterfly closing.
Anthony’s Restaurant, Leeds
Dior Jewellery
From the presentation of its first
collection in Paris in 1947, Christian Dior
has stood for pure sophistication, with
John Galliano’s audacity, glamour and
street style a perfect match to the Dior
woman of the third millennium. For
autumn, alongside our Dior clothing
collection, Flannels have a selection of
fantastic Dior jewellery from the ‘Dior
Preciously’ rings and necklaces in gilded
metal, with carnelian beads and amethyst
and glass cabochon (pictured), to the
Swarovski crystal encrusted ‘Dior Tinkles’
bangle to the ‘Diorart’ style with its
opulent line and golden, warm colours
inspired by the influential Austrian Art
Deco artist, Gustav Klimt.
Refined contemporary elegance is the
order of the day at Anthony’s restaurant
on the third floor of Flannels, Leeds. With
a great wine list and reasonable prices,
the menu is a twist on English fare with
whisky porridge, roast quail broth and
shepherd’s pie with rosemary bread on
the menu of this relaxed but impeccably
turned out venue. For brunch, lunch or
afternoon tea (with finger sandwiches,
scones and clotted cream), or business
breakfasts and evening events, Anthony’s
reputation is grounded on attention to
detail and imaginative cooking. And after
enjoying the cuisine, why not visit the
gallery space adjoining the restaurant for
a little après-food culture.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
11
So we wanted the input of some of our
customers on the clothes purchases you
cherish the most. How were we going to do
that? The only way was to meet some of
you face to face, so we sent our intrepid
team to the Flannels stores in Manchester
and Liverpool to meet some of our valued
customers in the flesh and interview you
‘voxpop’ style.
Name: Angela Lee
Age: 21
Occupation: Dental
Student
Favourite designer
label: Dolce &
Gabbana
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase: YSL Geisha
platforms
Key buy for this
autumn: Prada purple
blouse
Name: Hilary Clark
Age: 52
Occupation:
Housewife
Favourite designer
label: Prada,
Flannels own
label, Marc
Jacobs
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase: Flannels
Dress and jacket
Key buy for this
autumn: Great coat,
smart suit, and LBD
12
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
Name: Gordon Lee
Age: 20
Occupation: Sales
Favourite designer
label: Gucci
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase:
Alexander
McQueen Puma’s
Key buy for this
autumn: All
white Gucci
trainers
www.etro.com
www.derigo.com
Face to Face
Name: Lisa
Helliwell
Age: 24
Occupation:
Banking
Favourite designer
label: Gucci
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase: Fendi spy
bag
Key buy for this
autumn: Patent
clutch bag
Name: Michelle
Church
Age: 36
Occupation: Product
manager
Favourite designer
label: Miu Miu
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase: Miu
Miu handbag
Key buy for this
autumn: Black
dress and
pencil skirt
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
Name: Johanna
Sands
Age: 31
Occupation:
Designer
Favourite designer
label: Milly!
Couture Couture
Key buy for this
autumn:
Highwaisted
trousers
Name: Anita
Fisher
Age: 24
Occupation: Law
student
Favourite designer
label: Patrizia Pepe
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase: Some Gucci
stilettos that I got
for a bargain price
Key buy this autumn:
Anything in electric
purple
Name: Claire Marsh
Age: 34
Occupation: I own
my own bistro.
Favourite designer
label: D&G
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase: Herve
Leger dress
Key buy for this
autumn: Gucci
boots!
Name:
Jonathan
Sands
Age: 27
Occupation:
Musician
Favourite
designer
label: Milly
14
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
js
Name: Emily Harper
Age: 24
Occupation: Sales
consultant
Favourite designer
label: Miu Miu
Most treasured
clothing Flannels
purchase: Gucci
A/W Handbag
Key buy for this
autumn: Lace
dresses and
plaid print
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
Chimera ads Flannels 08
TRUTH
OR
DARE
18/7/08
10:31
Page 1
By Malene Birger invites us to take a risk
for this season, with a seductive, swirling
image enhanced by Birger’s own
exploration of art.
WORDS RACHEL EDWARDS
T
ransformation is at the centre of the By
Malene Birger AW08 collection – perhaps a
reflection of the changes afoot at the
independent label with Ms Birger herself at
the creative helm. This is a label that is growing fast
from its base in Copenhagen, with the sexy,
sophisticated collections now available in an
impressive 37 countries across the globe.
Malene Birger’s main inspiration comes from her
mother and grandmother’s sharp fashion eye, and By
Malene Birger has been celebrated since its inception
in 2003 for design that brings style icons from the
past right up to date.
AW08 is all about change and reinvention - leaving
behind unnecessary clutter and giving yourself the
freedom to bring about the changes you want right
now. You are invited to take a risk – truth or dare –
control or be controlled.
This concept of transformation is interpreted in an
exploration of art and photography that creates a
seductive, decadent image. With lean, sixties
silhouette on the runway, the forthcoming collection
paraded cocoon and pod-shaped coats, menswear
style trousers with a hint of old school Hollywood
drama all finely decorated with Birger’s own paint
strokes on prints. Featuring chunky acrylic stones
and retro beading, patent leather and fur trims;
elements of the collection highlight the season’s
biggest trend of wearable art. All accompanied by
Malene Birger’s Darlings – Birger’s hand selected,
hardcore trendsetters from the collection. Taking a
cue from the saying, “There is a time to let things
happen, and a time to make things happen!” for By
Malene Birger, that time is certainly right now.
YOUR BEST LOOK BEGINS WITH
A GREAT HAIRCUT
CHIMERA | AUTUMN WINTER 08
16
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
FOR YOUR NEAREST SALON
VISIT SASSOON.COM
HUGO
HUGO BOSS AG Phone +49 7123 940 www.hugoboss.com
Triumph
50th Anniversary of the Bonneville
Words Elizia Volkmann
W
hen you think of Marlon Brando in the Wild One or Evil Knieval in
his ill fated attempt to jump the fountain at Caesar’s Palace in
Vegas or even The Fonze saying “Hey”, in Happy Days, what
motorbike are they riding? The all American Hog? No, the
beautiful machine they bestride so manfully is a Triumph and it is 100% British.
Still privately owned and manufactured in Leicestershire, Triumph has remained
a truly British company when Jaguar and Aston Martin have been hoovered up
by German motoring giants. Triumph motorbikes are an icon of freewheeling
independence. And it’s not the American dream of ‘Independence’ - more the
very British variety of eccentric independence won by belligerence and
generally not wanting to be told what to do. There’s something truly noble about
a Triumph; the image of Steve McQueen in the Great Escape, one hand on the
handle bars makes him look more like a cavalry officer than a hairy biker.
This year Triumph is celebrating the 50th anniversary of the launch of the
Bonneville, possibly their most beautiful and best loved motorbike design. The
very first Bonneville, the T120, was showcased at the Earls Court Bike Show in
1958. The Bonneville, was named after Johnny Allen’s 1950’s record breaking
feats on a Triumph at the Bonneville Salt Flats in Utah. Now fifty years on,
Triumph are celebrating the anniversary with a special design by a modern day
screen icon and Triumph fan, Ewan McGregor. He has designed a one-off version
of this great bike that reflects its rich heritage, incorporating a copper-plated
tank with black waxed cotton on the seat and side panel inspired by one of his
own vintage bikes, as well as those ridden by Steve McQueen, Elvis and Bob
Dylan. Ewan explains, “I wanted to use a traditional waxed cotton material as it
has such a resonance with the history of style in motorcycling and mix it with the
tradition of coppering tanks.” He goes onto say that, “This is such an exciting
project for me – the Bonneville has to be the ultimate in iconic British
motorcycles, so the chance to create my very own design and see it through to
production is amazing.” The Ewan McGregor Bonneville will be auctioned to raise
funds for Unicef, and 650 limited edition bikes are on sale for fans.
Information can be found at www.triumphmotorcycles.com.
20
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
93
It is about
making
beautiful,
fashionable,
effortless,
well-finished
garments that
women can
fall in love
with, whether
the historic
name means
something to
her or not.
OSSIE
CLARK
22
In an optimistic sixties London, Ossie Clark
was at the centre of a cultural storm. Fast
forward and the genius hedonist’s label is
being revived with superstar fashion
young-gun, Avsh Alom Gur, at the
creative helm.
words Leanne Rae Wierzba
L
ondon in the mid-sixties and into the
seventies - a time of youthful optimism and
the uninhibited pursuit of pleasure. Iconic
fashion designer, Ossie Clark, was right at the
centre of a storm of fashion, art, music and celebrity
that multiplied to create a new lifestyle aesthetic.
Born in 1942 in Warrington, Clark’s designs were the
ultimate in innovation. His collaborations with Alice
Pollock at Quorum transformed the boutique into a
carefully curated shopping experience. He was
known for his genius pattern cutting, flattering
designs and use of fabulous prints created by his
then-wife and textile designer in her own right, Celia
Birtwell. He became famous for his theatrical
catwalk spectacles, and also for his hedonistic
lifestyle, which eventually led to the collapse of his
business and personal life, and untimely death in
1996 when he was killed by a former lover.
Fast forward, and it was nearly 24 years since Clark
designed his last collection when the idea to revive
the Ossie Clark label emerged. In November, Marc
Worth of WGSN purchased the name Quorom, and
young fashion super-star Avsh Alom Gur was
announced as Creative Director of the new Ossie
Clark label. Gur trained at Central St. Martins and
designed for the likes of Cavalli, Chloe, and Donna
Karan before he returned to the UK in 2005 to launch
his own name label. As Avsh Alom Gur, his work was
met with great critical acclaim, and won him the BFC
Topshop New Designer Award three seasons running.
He is known for his artistry, his creative vision, and the
easy elegance of his silhouettes. I recently met with
Avsh to discuss the re-launch, his work under the
name Ossie Clark, and the future of the label.
As a designer, how do you balance today’s market with
the strong legacy and personality behind the brand?
First of all, Ossie Clark is Ossie Clark. So while I am
making sure that everything is wearable and
desirable, it also must take into account the legacy.
Whether you choose to respect or rebel against it, it is
important to bear in mind. A dress has to work for the
individual and her lifestyle. So for us it is about
making beautiful, fashionable, effortless,
well-finished garments that women can fall in love
with, whether the historic name means something to
her or not. So, it is really a post-conceptual brand. A
fashion house that can offer a philosophy of how to
wear clothes and how to look modern.
What do you borrow from
the essence of Ossie Clark?
I would like to strike a
balance between
inspiration and
accessibility. Ossie Clark
worked with celebrities to
make one-of-a-kind
outfits, but also produced
high-volume collections
that woman loved because
of the shape. Many people
focus on the prints, but
without the incredible
architectural shape, they
would not work.
Can you tell me about the
re-launch of the label?
We chose the Serpentine
Gallery, because we
could keep the event
small and informal. We
worked with the idea of
an empty jewelry store at
night. There were 15
girls, and they were all
different: different hair,
heights and colour. With
our clothes, it is all about
individuality, and I
would like to feel that the
models’ individuality
showed through the
clothing. I classify the
first collection as season
zero. It was a
presentation, not a
catwalk, to tell the world
that Ossie Clark is back,
and that there is a great
team of people behind it.
It was a small capsule
collection. To tell you
that I am happy with
everything? No. There
are always things we
would like to change.
But it was a success, and
it will only get better and
continue to grow.
How do you intend to
move forward from here?
We have to keep in mind
the colour and prints,
because Celia Birtwell’s
prints are so closely
associated with the label
and give us great scope for
creativity. The essence of
Ossie Clark was
innovation, and in his
original clothes there was
something very positive
and carefree. So I see it as
quite free and open. It is
more about evolution than
revolution. We will have
to see how these abstract
ideas and inspirations
translate into clothing
over a few seasons.
Do you intend to keep the
label based in britain?
Yes, of course! Ossie
Clark is fundamentally a
British brand, and we
intend to keep it here.
People moan about it, but
I think British fashion is
fantastic. I would like to
see more major fashion
houses evolve here, but
this has to do with
budget, politics, and
investment in culture. But
the state of fashion - the
designers, the ideas and
the creativity - is great.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
23
Liberation Classics
Offering an antidote to
brash status-symbol
fashion, Bamford & Sons
are updating the classics
with craftsmanship, quality
and sustainability.
“A
man’s life should determine his
clothes, not vice versa.” Put this to
the test and Bamford & Sons qualify
to equip the modern man for city
dwelling, countryside retreating and everything in
between. This is a label that offers real, distinctive
design without pretentious propensities. It’s a luxury
brand – but absent of the typical show-off logo,
instead, communicating and liberating even, through
universal craftsmanship and quality; something the
majority of us like the sound of.
Offering an antidote to brash status-symbol
fashion and giving some depth to the term
understated, this is a label that harmonises the
clothes we wear with the lives we lead. Bamford &
Sons’ AW menswear collection is a renaissance of the
classics – the shooting jacket, the trenchcoat, the
tweed mix; all made lighter, and more contemporary
and with the Bamford & Sons touch. Imagine a
contemporary huntsman – country bred, but just as
at home in the city.
The collection is created with 100% natural
materials. Integrating organic fabrics whenever
possible, from specially created finely finished
linings, ecological leather tanned with soft vegetable
dyes, to the use of organic cotton and natural dyed
cashmere, it’s an undeniable balance of respect for
design and the environment.
With exclusive distribution to Flannels in the North
of England, we are awaiting the arrival of cotton rich
oil cloth hunting jackets, triple colour button
cashmere cardigans and Bamford & Sons’ signature
double colour cashmere scarves that will no doubt
serve you well in the forthcoming months.
A celebration of luxury and integrity, their A/W
collection in particular is an experience that will make
you want to carry the outdoors everywhere with you.
WORDS RACHEL EDWARDS
PHOTOGRAPHY GEORGE BAMFORD
24
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
My obsession
was to propose
coats and short
jackets in soft
and luxurious
fabrics,
reinterpreting
Ramosport’s
heritage
trademarks
with pertinent
details for
today.
Words RACHEL EDWARDS
H
eritage is one thing you cannot imitate, so
there’s no uncertainty with a fashion
company whose origins can be traced back
to the Russian Revolution when a girl called
Sarah began producing waterproof jackets for the
soldiers of the Tsar’s army.
Julien Fournié, Ramosport’s Artistic Director,
explains, “Ramosport is 105 years old and our
heritage is rich with a century of creations. However,
a century is a long time and I tend to refer more to
the times when Anne-Marie Beretta was at the
creative helm. She made Ramosport a landmark of
Paris fashion, especially in the 1980s.”
Now located in Paris, Sarah’s original boutique
selling raincoats has developed to become
Ramosport – the coat label with a reputation for
distinctive luxe outwear.
“When I first came to Ramosport I searched the
archives of the House to bathe in its DNA. My
obsession was to propose coats and short jackets, in
soft and luxurious fabrics, reinterpreting the house’s
trademarks for today,” says Fournié; and if their
fabrics were good enough for Russian winters, then
who are we to argue. “Textile innovation is crucial at
Ramosport, but also, fabric must serve design and
26
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
style, not the opposite.”
Fournié cut his teeth working with Jean Paul
Gaultier and Claude Montana, and is always looking
for those magic moments to inspire his design.
“Sometimes a sentence told by a friend, a look in a
mystery woman’s eyes, a piece of music heard over
breakfast, a novel, or a pieces of manga watched on
cable TV late at night. I prefer courting inspiration,
leaving it to chance, too afraid of unmasking its
process, fearing it might vanish.”
Ramosport marry function with a couture edge, so
it’s no wonder Hussein Chalayan and Jean Colonna
have dabbled in the design of their trenchcoats. The
label is synonymous with flawless attention to detail
creating investment pieces that balance technical
textiles with a clean, unfussy design.
Speaking of the future, Fournié adds, “I wish to
make Ramosport a complete fashion house
providing tailored coats; but also dresses, and in the
future, why not shirts, suits and accessories. If we
manage this I will really be proud....”
Building on the inheritance of its past to cope with
the weather conditions of the future, Ramosport has
a heritage that is impenetrable - and we assure you,
this includes the Autumnal rain.
patriziapepe.com _ 0207 631 3399
Wild
Winter
Couture
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
S
HOSS
INTROPIA
ome see fashion as
purely superficial,
but if you agree with
Virginia Woolf as we
do, then perhaps one of
Spain’s most bohemian labels
is for you. Hoss Intropia has
been making its mark this
side of the channel with its
singular aesthetic and a liking
for bold prints and
contrasting colours since it
was founded in 1994 by
Constantino Hernandez.
Hoss Intropia is designed
for the eclectic,
cosmopolitan woman who
enjoys boho chic, so it’s no
surprise that faces of the
Madrid based company have
personified unconventional
style. For AW08, actress
Naomie Harris from ‘Pirates
of the Carribean’ offers a
reflection of their philosophy.
Earlier seasons have seen
Tamara Rojo (the Spanish
first ballerina of the Royal
Ballet in London), moon
faced supermodel Lily Cole,
and Sophie Auster (the
smoky eyed actress,
chanteuse and model
daughter of writers Paul
Auster and Siri Hustvedt is a
French phenomenon)
proving the perfect match.
The word ‘Intropia’ is a
fusion of interior and utopia for a woman who shies away
from stereotypes and is
constantly seeking something
different, which make Hoss
Intropia’s references for AW
to the Vienna School of
Decorative Arts and the Art
Nouveau and later Art Deco
movements completely
appropriate.
Art Deco’s emphasis on
modernity, exuberance,
vitality and beauty was as
escapist as any of the
Hollywood musicals of the
same era. It’s legacy of great
beauty, craft and imagination
is reflected in the sleek forms
and patterns that feature in
the Hoss Intropia AW
collection. The label is known
for its feminine designs and
its AW08 collection is a
concoction of oversized
geometrics, stylised florals
and stripes in a wash of
warming colours in fabrics
from tweeds and silks to
merino wools and cashmeres
with hand embroidery,
sequins and stones for a
touch of luxury.
So if you want your dresses
to be more than something to
cover you up, this is a label to
help create a vision of your
own modern Intropia.
WORDS RACHEL EDWARDS, ILLUSTRATION COCO, PHOTOGRAPHY OF NAOMI HARRIS FROM HOSS INTROPIA AW CAMPAIGN
“DRESSES THOUGH THEY
MAY SEEM FRIVOLOUS HAVE
A MUCH MORE IMPORTANT
ROLE…. THEY ALSO CHANGE
OUR VISION OF THE WORLD
AND THE VISION THE WORLD
HAS OF US.” VIRGINIA
WOOLFVIRGINIA WOOLF
28
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
Kilgour AW 08 Flannels.indd 1
11/8/08 13:41:01
The
Jeans
Star
The avant garde Marithé + François Girbaud go cosmic
for AW08 with their collection that’s uncovering precious
codes in the universe of fashion.
A
shooting star shrieks across the night sky.
And then suddenly dozens – maybe
hundreds – maybe thousands; an
astonishing firework display like driving
your car into a ferocious rain shower. For most,
shooting stars are drowned by the artificial light of
our neon existence. But in another universe, Girbaud
have created their own fashion meteor shower,
lighting up the night sky and exploring the mysteries
of the style cosmos. Reflections and the contrast of
fabric and cut; harmony and discord; the
constellations explored in fashion form. Like a comet
just returned from cold storage in the Oort cloud, the
collection is shedding a crust built up over billions of
years of exposure to cosmic rays, to explode into
patterns that reinvent pockets and seams; that draw
the back, the chest, the lap, the legs, and form a new
universal jeans galaxy.
Marithé + François Girbaud, the avant garde jeans
designers, are uncovering precious codes in the
universe of fashion, stirring up the primordial soup to
reveal the extraterrestrial genes in our jeans.
Continuing their pioneering casual designs, the label,
started in 1978 by husband and wife team Marithé and
François Girbaud, continue to create unique, timeless
street style with a clear French attitude.
30
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
For Autumn/Winter, laser treatments create
wear and tear on urban shapes. The Girbaud
constellation also reveals a new neckline, and knit is
germinated on jackets and shirts flourishing on
collar, cuffs and trims.
A mix of fabrics – always lightweight – are cut to
create a singular outer silhouette and an inner
dimension of fine, sectional linings. The half-moon
print, which originated on t-shirts a few seasons ago,
is emblazoned on shirts with prints circling the back
of the neck. T-shirts are cut in a unique single piece
with no side stitching. Geometric star motifs repeat
on shirts, and denim jeans take up the star symbol on
belts and details.
Marithé + François Girbaud have always been
creative pioneers, and now they’re taking us
interstellar with their precious clothing for stargazers.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
31
Enchanted garden
The colours might be neutral, but the detail is in the charm of the
construction and use of fabric, with frills, quilting and prints
making a sculptural bridge between the minimal and the
super-feminine to create an enchanted autumn.
this page: dress
£980, clutch bag
£370 and shoes
£275 by PRADA
opposit
e: jacket by
opposite:
MONCLER £595
photography CLARE
PRENTICE
styling BRITTA
BURGER
32
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
33
this page
top: dress PATRIZIA PEPE £225
bottom: coat PATRIZIA PEPE £335
opposite
dress MARC BY MARC JACOBS £345,
clutch bag ZAGLIANI £795,
peep toe shoes PRADA £275
makeup MEGUMI MATSUNO
hair SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM | SASSOON.COM
model AGNIEZKA GOLEBIEWSKA @ NEXT
34
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
35
Nature-Couture
Etro’s nature versus fashion theme for
AW08 is a prosperous affair inspired
by the art of the vegetable garden!
T
he Etro AW08 catwalk show
in Milan was a homage to the
goddess of nature, Demeter,
with its harvest festival
theme where fruit and root
vegetables became the ultimate
accessories. But there will be no
barren months of winter here, and
certainly more than pomegranate
seeds to sustain poor Persephone
before her mother rescues her from
Hades in the Spring.
For Etro, AW is time to cultivate
the fields and of course at Flannels
we completely agree with the idea of
nurturing the soul through our
fashion habits. So, with a menswear
collection that is inspired by the art
of the vegetable garden, Etro are
reaping a good harvest. The catwalk
may have featured soil and a hedge,
but the nature versus fashion theme
of the AW menswear is richly
sophisticated with the paisley print
Etro are so famous for coming a long
way since founder Gimmo Etro
penned the symbol of their fine,
elegant designs in 1968.
The design is still kept in the
family, with Kean Etro creating this
prosperous collection, abundant in
all the shades of the forthcoming
autumn season. Rich and vibrant
hues of golden yellow, rusty reds
and tarnished browns combine with
sumptuous velvet - extrovert in
attitude and not for the style shy.
The suiting features Prince of Wales
checks, woven fleck pinstripes and
paisley lapel detailing for the
evening in two buttoned and double
breasted styles; with hidden under
lapel contrast fabric trims and bright
inner linings.
Completed by coloured stripe
shirts with contrasting check and
stripe collars, Etro’s Autumnal
menswear collection promises a
feast for senses starved of colour in
the typically drab British season. A
cornucopia of inspiration for what
can only be described as what
nature does best.
words RACHEL EDWARDS
www.theory.com
36
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
93
Beat the
Eco-system
Mens collections for the British cold snap can take the high road or
the low road; and for the out-and-out-casual, or for when you get
the opportunity to escape the suit and tie, you are looking for
clothing that can take everything that global warming throws your
way (and looks the part of course). We take a closer look at two
labels who are doing just that - Stone Island and C.P. Company.
photography HAIDEE AUGUSTA
styling JOE MILLER
model EDDIE TUCKER @ NEVS
hair SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM SASSOON.COM
make-up Sassoon Creative Team | sassoon.com
C.P. Company
For the ever-evolving C.P. Company, their Autumn/Winter 08 catwalk debut during the Milan menswear
shows marked something of a natural progression for a label that, in its 30 year history, has always
contrasted classic design with modern, technological fabrics. Their high contrast, monochrome show
marked a move into the international fashion spotlight that makes perfect sense for a label that has
always managed the impossible combination of understated-statement style.
In the words of its chairman and founder, “The label is unique. It resembles a kitchen in which the chefs
never tire of mixing ingredients in different proportions in search of new flavours.” Carlo Rivetti has led
C.P. Company since 1989 down a research led path that places functionality at the heart of the brand.
C.P.Company’s non-conformist attitude to clothing design means they experiment heavily with
function versus fashion, embracing modernity and technology through their fabrics whilst holding on to a
sense of classic mens style. For Autumn/Winter 08 in store we will see a refined colour palette of blacks,
tobacco and camel with C.P’s signature masculine shapes - formalwear and technical sportswear - in
innovative fibre mixes; wool and cashmere with nylon and polyester protected with resins, flock prints
and spraying; leather, hounds tooth checks and herringbone. C.P. Company is that rare mix of wearable
versus cool, contemporary versus timeless; with a brand that has it all in the mix.
40
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
41
Stone Island
Pushing new frontiers is something that Stone
Island knows a lot about. Since 1982 they’ve been
kitting out thrill seekers with outer layers so
technically advanced they might as well be bullet
proof. Their textile research labs mean they use
processes previously unheard of in the clothing
industry. From water filtering technology to
vacuum coated microscopic stainless steel films
to colour changing thermo reactive fabrics; their
methods are adapted from the aviation and
construction industries to make you ready for
anything – whatever the weather.
For the Autumn/Winter 08 collection, Stone
Island have combined the strength of Army and
Navy with an urban sportswear aesthetic. Taking
traditional outerwear such as the peacoat, parka
jacket and duffle coat, they’ve come up with a
take on function versus contemporary style that
mixes the military and man made. Bi-colour
double knits in 100% Todd & Duncan cashmere
and pixel camouflage down jackets composed of
two layers joined by a goose feather filled shell are
some of the features you can expect, with hand
painted camouflage inspired by artists such as
Jackson Pollock ensuring that technical is never
dull. Setting you up for whatever the eco system
can throw at you, Stone Island have engineered an
outer skin you can feel safe in.
42
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
43
JeΩery West
Words RACHEL EDWARDS
Footwear is no longer seen as a finishing touch, more an opening gambit, where
going against the grain becomes second nature. We speak to Guy West of the
Northampton based shoe label on their anti-trend, traditional, alternative footwear.
F
or many, footwear is a finishing touch. It’s the icing on an elaborately fashioned outfit, a personal stamp
that sets you apart; and in the case of footwear label Jeffery-West, this remains at the core of their
mainline brand identity. Speaking to Guy West, one half of the Northampton based creative duo that
began the shoe label so many years ago, Guy explains how their reputation comes from an, “alternative
view. Whether it’s people, places, music, socializing, they all have a certain feel, you could call it darker or more
decadent but always with some humour (along with a few infamous party’s and controversial photo shoots!).”
Placing their faith in the hands of craftsmanship, Jeffery West believe in tradition, not trends, and that is
exactly what has earned them their renown for footwear that defies the current mass-produced market. “Our
designs reflect an alternative, but with an underlying classic element, as quality is of the utmost importance
to us. So the designs are not just about the latest throw away fashion,” explains West.
We are talking true British design here. The kind that West says, “rubs against the grain and does not take
itself too seriously. It’s almost an arrogance that says, ‘sod what all the others are doing - we’ll do it our way.’ “
Taking this concept forward, their forthcoming mainline A/W
collections take inspiration from icons including what West defines as
‘Richard Burton and Peter O’Toole meet Flashman for a night of
private clubs and seedy drinking dens and all that would entail.’
Jeffery West shoes are British design at its most accessible, with
future plans to, “spread the pleasure of their infamous shoes to a
couple of other countries also.”
Commanding our attention and more importantly, our eyeline,
footwear is no longer seen guys as a finishing touch; more an opening
gambit; one where going against the grain becomes second nature.
Find yourself a home away from home at our new
store now open at Barton Square, Trafford Park.
Tel: 08444 99 1146
44
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
43
Denim
super
snobs
A typical PRPS customer is a denim
connoisseur, someone who wants the
best quality jeans out there
F
ounded by former Nike designer Donwan Harrell, PRPS was created
in 2005 to shake up the American denim market by combining
luxury with quality craftsmanship. Seeking inspiration from Harrell’s
Virginian roots, early 70’s drag racing and military style uniforms,
the mighty collaboration resulted in a jean to rival all others.
The name ‘PRPS’ came from an abbreviation of ‘purpose’ - which is
entirely fitting considering the amount of time and effort devoted to the
purpose of delivering the perfect denim product for the most discerning
denim enthusiast. Having travelled the world, Harrell was determined to
develop the opulence of denim using premium materials, and unlike most
mass manufactured jeans which are made in China, PRPS denim is
produced in Japan.
Harrell chose to work with artisan cloth manufactures in Japan as he
believes that the Japanese have a better grasp and understanding of
American culture and fashion history than most Americans do. So the raw,
organic cotton is harvested in Africa then shipped to Japan where PRPS
denim is woven in small batches on classic looms to produce a stronger,
cleaner edge to the fabric. Although this long drawn out process produces
less material and more waste, the end result is a denim which is superior in
durability, texture and touch. The journey of just one pair of PRPS jeans from the creative designer’s desks in Manhattan, to the cotton fields of
Harare, Zimbabwe, to the construction stage in Japan and onto the shelves
only in leading the US and European stores, defines a new ethical
globalisation within the fashion industry.
So, with the dedication that produces such characteristic fabric and the
range of classic shapes and styles, it is the final attention to detail which
really makes PRPS stand out. These signature traits include camouflaged
pocket lining, a hand printed internal pocket logo and five different shanks
on each button fly. A typical PRPS customer is a denim super snob,
someone who wants the best quality jeans out there; the type of person
who studies the interior stitching and someone who regards the distressing
and ageing with utmost importance. It is thanks to their authenticity that
PRPS has become a cult-status denim brand with fanatics collecting the
wide range of looks from the clean and raw, to the deep and distressed.
46
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
Words Sanyika Odiete
When concocting the concept for PRPS, Harrell
looked to other leading US designers for
inspiration and having always been a fan of Ralph
Lauren, used him as a muse to make PRPS a
lifestyle choice. The brand provides for both the
trendy urbanite and the original industrial denim
wearers. The jeans were created to be eye
catching, yet tough and unlike other makes, were
fashioned to improve with age. Like their
infamous slogan, PRPS denim becomes bruised
but never breaks.
Today PRPS with its world famous purple label
is worn and admired by fashionistas, superstars
and denim connoisseurs for its distinguished yet
unique style. PRPS don’t rely on publicity stunts,
have always avoided the use of trendy advertising
campaigns or celebrity seeding - in fact, they give
nothing away - so when the eclectic mix of athletic
and celebrity demi-Gods like David Beckham,
Brad Pitt, Patrick Dempsey and Rio Ferdinand are
seen rocking these jeans it’s because they, like any
other PRPS customer, have appreciated the
craftsmanship and have paid to wear the product.
To ensure that PRPS remains the leader in the
somewhat over crowded premium denim market
of today, the company remain faithful to their high
quality values and have continually changed
gears to wow their fans with new outstanding
collections each featuring their signature stamps
that have made this such a well loved and highly
respected denim brand today.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
47
True
Colours
With a new album released this Autumn, eighties style
icon Cyndi Lauper, is still a girl having fun. And the
technicolour songstress has lost none of her alternative
sparkle and energy, working with Basement Jaxx et al
to bring us a new album this autumn.
W
hen you think of Cyndi Lauper the
giddy-ness and energy of the eighties
hits you smack in the back of the head.
Images of Prince and Madonna soon
follow. It was a technicolour time of strong tunes,
stronger images and experimentation with brash
ashion and colour. A cacophony of styles and genre
all carried out with a tongue in cheek swagger.
Cyndi Lauper with her singular voice and unique
look stood out. She always felt the real deal
somehow. Less studied than Madonna, with her
razorsharp instinct as to when to change her skin,
and the exact hue and colour to change it to for a
particular moment in time. Cyndi Lauper always
48
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
seemed a lot more chaotic and less controlled. She
really was like the local kooky New York girl who had
somehow managed to stumble her way into the
limelight. At her peak, the tracks ‘Time After Time’,
‘Girls Just Want to Have Fun’ and ‘True Colours’ along
with her peroxide hairdos and fluorescent fashion lit
up the charts with a electric authenticity that it is
difficult to find in pop these days.
Now Cyndi is back with her ‘Bring Ya to The Brink’
album, a dance infused offering written in cahoots
with some of the world’s most respected electronic
artist and producers. ‘I can talk forever,’ warned the
55 year old singer as we interviewed her in London
on the eve of the release.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
49
You always feel
when you go off
into your studio
you’re like the mad
scientist because
it’s all about
discovery and
experimentation.
50
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
You’ve been working with the cream of international
electronic producers on the new album. Why did you
choose to go this route for this record?
Because internationally, dance music is pop music. I
reached out to them because I thought they would have
the same mindset as me, since I’m an artist and
producer too. When you work together like that it’s
more like being in a band.
You’ve also been over here in London working with
Basement Jaxx on the track ‘Rocking Chair’?
I found them to be wildly creative and fun. I must say
when I went to Brixton it was really magical for me
because it was the first time I went across the river. I
didn’t even realise what was on the other side. Brixton
was like Williamsburgh in New York or Greenpoint.
They were so generous to let me into their little haven.
That’s where they make their magic. You always feel
when you go off into your studio you’re like the mad
scientist because it’s all about discovery and
experimentation. We wrote from scratch which was
fun. Those two are like madhatters but they’re really
bright. I wanted to work with people in the dance
world to experiment really. Not only Basement Jaxx,
although the Basement Jaxx track is the most unusual
of the whole thing, but that was us together. It wasn’t
jazz but more like punk. And who else was I gonna
write the story of Faye Delroy with? It had to be the
Basement Jaxx cause everyone else might have been a
little too serious.
Rolling Stone Magazine were saying that with this new
record, in a way you’ve gone back to your roots, the
dancefloor. A bit like Madonna did as well recently.
Do you see any connection?
I’m really her cousin. Her evil cousin! For me it’s great
when I see her doing stuff, or Prince. I get excited to see
my old pals. They’re not really my old pals, I was never
really close to them but in a way we were always in the
magazines together. They always compared me to
Madonna and we’re so different from each other. The
only thing we really had in common was I hated
conservative clothing and I think she did too. I think
we were out at the same time and both of us love
modern music. When I see her, I always laugh. I loved
her work on ‘Confessions On A Dancefloor’ but this is
very different from that.
Is this record also a way to say thank you to your gay
fans cause I know you’ve been supportive of the gay
community for years, like with your True Colours tour.
It is for them too. If they’re dancing with me to the
music they’re dancing with me. I’m a friend and family
of the community. For a long time I would run into that
world and take refuge there when I couldn’t stand the
straight world; when it drove me crazy. Cause I’m an
odd person and I don’t really fit in. Sometimes I can’t
take it and I’m too odd! So I have to go home to my
peeps where I kind of fit in better. Cause everybody’s
odd and different and a little crazy, and so it’s ok. They
have seen me come out of a gorilla suit. All the nutty
things that I did, I did with them.
And what about England? What’s your overall
impression? It must seem very different to a native
New Yorker?
I happened to notice, and this is true, in England they
don’t only drive on the other side of the road but they
also sing on the other side of the beat, they do! If you
listen to Americans sing, it’s lazier. In England, it’s
stiffer. I find that really interesting. I could have
learned it at home but I thought it was more interesting
coming here, listening to how you talk, watching you
drive. That’s what makes every English version of
American music totally English. Totally fantastic.
And that brings us onto Amy Winehouse - someone in
the pop genre coming out of the UK that you admire
and I’ve heard you feel an affinity with?
Amy Winehouse to me is a lot like Dusty Springfield
except what she did was she brought the tattoos in, she
brought the dirty sloppy thing in and the content was
totally different. The subject matter was totally
modern sung in an old-fashioned way with
old-fashioned rhythm, that was a little dirty. It was the
way it went together, the components, that I think were
really brilliant and fun. Gosh, I hope she makes some
more music soon.
So you are an avowed fan of English music and the
whole English counter culture?
I like all of that stuff. The punk movement here,
Vivienne Westwood, my God, I adore her. I think she is
the be all and end all. Let me tell you, when we were
over there in the States and there she was with ‘Buffalo
Gals’ I died. It was unbelievable. So of course I’m
gonna come over here and do music. The people that
you see here are totally different from the people that
you see in the States. It’s been an adventure.
‘Bring Ya to The Brink’ album is out now. Cyndi
Lauper’s world tour hits the UK in October. For full
details see www.cyndilauper.com.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
51
The Strokes’ rhythm guitarist with a look that’s
launched a thousand indie bands spoke to us
on the release of his new solo album.
C
ool purveyors of ultra melodic guitar
pop, Albert Hammond Jr. and his band
return to the fray with their second
album, ‘¿Cómo Te Llama?’, a follow up to
the much feted ‘Yours to Keep’. He produced the
album himself, a process he describes as ‘intense’.
Instantly recognisable as The Strokes rhythm
guitarist, Albert is as singular in his pursuit for the
perfect melody as he is in his striking and much
copied image. A look that’s launched a few
thousand indie bands across the globe.
Albert and Co’s songs are immediate and very
melodic. It reminds you of early rock n roll when
many a classic was written from simple chord
structures, enigmatic lyrics and strong melodic lines.
“Well, I fell in love with Buddy Holly when I was
growing up and then Roy Orbison. I love melody
and I feel like there are still so many melodies left
to find. Early rock left an imprint on me that will
never go away.”
There is often a tinge of melancholy in the songs
as well. Bitter sweet.
“People tell me this. I guess I’m always suggesting
that even at the best you still feel other things.”
52
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
You have a very recognisable style. Were you
always into suits rather than the whole jeans and
t-shirt look?
“I guess it slowly happened. I always enjoyed
the respect I got as a kid while wearing a suit. I
couldn’t be denied entrance.”
How does it feel to be more in the forefront than in
The Strokes where you are more part of the group?
“A band is a band and I enjoy being anywhere
that’s creative.”
There’s an instrumental track on the album
called ‘Spooky Couch’. A melancholic wash of
sound which seems a bit of a departure?
“I wrote a two minute instrumental that people
wanted to hear on repeat. So I figured I’d loop the
song and build it up with percussion and strings.”
What are you most pleased about with your
second album?
“The songwriting, the playing, the arrangements.
I love it. There was a moment when I doubted it but
I truly love it. Both albums have lead me to where I
am now - a much, much better songwriter!”
‘¿Cómo Te Llama?’ is out now on Rough Trade.
Charles – seating system designed by Antonio Citterio
Albert
Hammond
Jr
Simon Green,
47 King Street West,
Manchester M3 2PW
Telephone: 0161 834 8903
www.simongreeninteriors.co.uk
Magic
Moments
Each April a new aristocracy descends on the
tiny French town of Hyères for its international
Festival of Fashion and Photography, drawing
the crème de la crème of the international
fashion world to its doors. We caught up with
Matthew Cunnington and Audrey Corregan, this
year’s fashion and photography winners, to talk
about the festival and their hopes for the future.
From ‘Obviously ’ by Audrey Corregan
H
yères exists in its own special place and
time on the southern tip of the French
Côtes de Provence. The town was beloved
by the English and European aristocracy
from the eighteenth century and their grand houses
and palaces can still be seen amongst the palm
trees. In more recent times Hyères has lost out in the
international tourist stakes to nearby resorts such as
Monte Carlo, Cannes and Saint Tropez. But since
1986, a new kind of aristocracy has been descending
on the town each April for the international Hyères
Festival of Fashion and Photography which draws
the crème de la crème of the international fashion
world to its doors.
Although pretty much unknown to the general
public, the festival plays a major role in discovering
the best emerging international fashion and
photography talent. Each year, ten young fashion
designers selected from across the globe,
showcase their first brand-name collection in the
professional environment offered by the festival.
Cutting edge designers such as Viktor & Rolf,
Henrik Vibskov, Swash, C-Neeon and Romain
Kremer first showed here, and luminaries such as
John Galliano, Ann Demeulemeester, Helmut Lang
and Jean Paul Gaultier have supported the
competition as members of the jury panel. You will
also see art directors, picture editors and agents
swarming around town wanting to be the first to
sign up the next Alexai Hay or Cedric Buchet, two
of the photography competition’s recent finalists
who went on to shoot campaigns for Gucci and
Prada respectively.
The festival was dreamt up over 20 years ago by
local hero, Jean Pierre Blanc. Amazingly he thought
it all up as way of positioning the town as a current
cultural force whilst still at business school.
“Everyone said `You are crazy! Fashion is in Paris, it
will never come to Hyères ‘, but they were wrong.”
At the epicentre of the action, and the venue for
many a sun soaked evening soiree, is the extensive
and starkly beautiful Villa Noailles. If you think of
Hyères old town as tumbling down a hill, then the
villa sits right at the top looking down on the town
and the surrounding countryside. Once a home
and retreat for writers and artists including
Picasso, Dali, Mondrian and Man Ray, the 1920s
modernist villa now acts as the venue for the
photography exhibition and as office for the
festival itself. The fashion competition is held
outside town at the Port d’Hyères, where an
enormous catwalk marquee is set up on the beach.
The renown and respect the festival now
commands draws the best rising international
talent. Winner of the 2008 photography
“From a personal
point of view the
Hyères festival
has changed my
life in an instant.”
competition is Audrey
Corregan with her
series of portraits of
birds of prey,
‘Obviously’.
“I knew about the
festival because it is
quite famous. A friend
of mine asked me to
take pictures of her
clothes: she wanted to
apply for the fashion
part and she asked
me, ‘Why don’t you try
it in photography?’ I thought, ‘why not?’”
That proved to be a good decision as she
impressed the panel of judges coming out on top of
an impressive field. “When I won the prize, I felt
gratitude and encouragement. It’s stimulating. It
gives me energy to continue my work. It’s
important to know that some people understand
what you do and like it or are touched by it. I’m
thankful to the jury’s members and the time and
attention they gave us. It was incredibly rich to have
all those different new point of view on our work!”
The award has spurred her on to new challenges
and given her a confidence to really push herself
creatively in many directions. “Now I’ve just arrived
in New York, where I will follow a one-year
Matthew Cunnington,
2008 fashion winner
Words Lee Taylor
Villa Noailles photography Michel Tettamanti
54
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
55
Lionel Terray on expedition in 1964
program at the School of Visual Arts, thanks to the
prize. I would like to exhibit again and publish
books but I’m also interested in collaborations and
the boundaries of commissions. It will depend on
the people I meet and the projects. I’m open
minded and curious!”
This year’s fashion winner is Birmingham based
Matthew Cunnington with his women’s collection,
‘Hail Mary’. Matthew, a graduate of the University of
Westminster, found his inspiration from the life of
his own mother who in 1969, due to social pressure,
was forced to abandon her illegitimate daughter.
The pair only met again thirty years later, and this
collection is subtly influenced by this reunion.
Matthew was also enticed by the reputation of
this forward thinking festival. “Hyères is renowned
for being a launch pad for new designers. I initially
heard of the competition from Diane Pernet when I
met her at the British Embassy in Paris in October
2006, where I was exhibiting work as part of my
degree. So after that I sent off my dossier of work
to the selection panel.”
Being part of the festival has given him many
moments that he will carry with him for a long time.
“The main memories I have of the festival are
meeting and enjoying the company of the other
designers participating. We shared great
moments at the Villa Noailles. You could sense the
history of the villa and to be a part of that was
really very special. There are so many good
moments, from seeing the marquee where the
show would be held for the first time. It was night
time at the beach and the marquee was lit up. It
appeared quite magical with the sound of the sea
in the background.”
Winning the prestigious prize has been a
dizzying experience and has given Cunnington the
backing and confidence he needs going forward.
“As a part of the prize I have PR with Paris based
Pressing for six months and the opportunity of
having a catwalk show with hair and make up at
the L’Oreal office in Paris. At the moment I am
collaborating with John Sanderson on a new
collection known as ‘Mourning Weeds’ which we
hope to exhibit in February 2009. I have had lots
of interest from magazines and press. From a
personal point of view the Hyères Festival has
changed my life in an instant.”
Moncler
From mountains to catwalk,
Moncler adds wool to their
famous feathers for AW08.
B
orn in the mountains but alive in the city,
fashion outerwear brand, Moncler, first
became famous as one of the world’s most
prestigious manufacturers of mountaineering
supplies. Fast forward, and the company named for its
roots in alpine Monastier de Clermont at the foot of
the French Alps, has transformed itself for a fashion
elite with its trademark down jackets for urban
expeditions into the freezer.
Alongside their sleeping bags, lined cagoules and
tents, Moncler’s first 1950s down jackets may have
looked more like blue boxes than clothes, but to
alpine explorers, the goose down-filled jackets were
a godsend. Throughout the 1950s and 60s, Moncler
equipped major high altitude expeditions, and in
1968 was official supplier for the French national
alpine skiing team during the Winter Olympics.
With the rise in recreational skiing, Moncler’s history
was shifting. In 1980, designer Chantal Thomas,
radically changed the Moncler aesthetic introducing
buttons instead of zippers, fur trim, satin and reversible
fabrics. In 1999 the first spring/summer collection was
presented, followed in 2002 with a couture collection.
The secret behind the Moncler magic is feathers the brand may have developed aesthetically, but it
continues to insulate using about 300 grams of
down from aquatic birds raised in Brittany and
Perigord per jacket.
For this AW08, Moncler has overhauled its
menswear collection, adding highly prized English
and Shetland wools to its high-tech, ultra sporty
looks. The classic Moncler shapes are not lost, but
the wool and the choice of steely grey evokes a less
sporty, more urban feel. The hooded Branson in
grey wool or black technical; the Darwin and
Mackay with a thirties worker’s jacket style wool
outer; and the Springfield bomber contrasting
technical glossy sleeves with wool torso.
For women, lightweight technical coats come in
special vintage looks - ‘60s Chalet Chic or Retro
Couture. The glossy black Sunbury’s unique hooded
capelet sillhouette and geometric quilting; the
cinched in waist of the full length Johanna and the
shorter Kelly both quilted with high collar and three
button fronting; the Badia’s primary purple
technical zipper.
If you live in the city, but your heart is in the
mountains, then a Moncler jacket is a serious must
have this year.
For more information about the Villa Noailles
and the Hyères Festival of Fashion and
Photography visit www.villanoailles-hyeres.com.
illustration and collection by Matthew Cunnington
56
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
57
Play
Shadow
This season, it’s
about feminine
silhouettes
emerging from
the shadow of
fashion excesses
to create a
powerful female
form, softened
with voluminous
ruffles,
translucent
shimmering
fabrics and
primary reds,
purples and
pinks.
this page: dress BY MALENE BIRGER £255
photography CLARE PRENTICE
styling BRITTA BURGER
opposit
e: coat SONIA RYKIEL £395
opposite:
58
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
59
opposit
e: dress by GIAMBATTISTA VALLI £1465, belt by GIAMBATTISTA VALLI £230
opposite:
this page: dress by GIAMBATTISTA VALLI £1465, shoes by FENDI £345
60
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
61
this page: dress D&G £220
opposit
e ((clock
clock
wise fr
om ttop
op right):
opposite
clockwise
from
dress MOSCHINO CHEAP&CHIC £420;
top £160 and trousers £150 HOSS
INTROPIA; jacket £620, shirt £190
and trousers £770 all MIU MIU; dress
DOLCE & GABBANA £2245, shoes
FENDI £345
62
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
63
this page ttop:
op: dress JOSEPH £189,
shoes FENDI £345
this page bott
om: dress by GUCCI £880
bottom:
opposit
e: dress HERVE LEGER £1125
opposite:
64
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
hair SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM | SASSOON.COM
makeup MEGUMI MATSUNO
model JILLIAN @ UNION
styling assistants OLIVER ARLT, NAOMI BEAUVOIR BLACK
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
65
From classic leathers and
chunky knits, to retro
workwear and sports-fashion,
our men’s casual collections
sum up colliding eras in
midnight-winter shades of
grey and deep blue (with
black of course) for winter.
COLLISION
COURSE
photographer JOACHIM NORVIK
stylist YASUHIRO TAKEHISA
jacket by PRADA £1325
66
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
cap £40, jumper £80, shirt £90,
jeans £90 by ONE TRUE SAXON
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
67
jacket £185, check shirt £85,
white stitch jeans £95 all by
PAUL SMITH JEANS
68
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
blue jumper £95, t-shirt
£40 and jeans £130 all by
PAUL SMITH JEANS
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
69
this page leather jacket by GUCCI £1525, trousers by Y-3
£210, trainers by ALEXANDER MCQUEEN PUMA £155
opposit
e
opposite
t op left: jacket by MONCLER £710, shirt by HUGO BOSS
£100, jeans by YEAR OF £295
t op right: knitted jacket £495 and beige trousers £225
both PRADA, polo shirt PRADA LINEA ROSSA £135
bott
om left: jacket by MONCLER £710, jeans by YEAR OF
bottom
£295, shirt by YOHJI YAMAMOTO £475, trainers by
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN PUMA £160
bott
om right: jacket by Y’S FOR MEN £610, grey cardigan
bottom
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD £215, shirt RALPH LAUREN £75
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
71
jacket by DOLCE & GABBANA
£1525, jeans by PRPS £330,
trainers by ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN PUMA £155, watch by
TOYWATCH £155
model BEN WADDELL @
MODELS 1
hair SASSOON CREATIVE
TEAM | SASSOON.COM
make-up KERRIE ANN MURPHY
photographer assistant
TOM MORAN
stylist assistant AI KAMOSHITA,
MAI SUZUKI
To order your free copy of the Autumn / Winter 2008
catalogue go to :
www.onetruesaxon.com
ONETrueSaxon is a registered trade mark of ONETrueSaxon Limited.
© ONETrueSaxon Limited, 2008.
72
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
FROM THY
WARDROBE
BRING
CHROME HEARTS
Whether you have plans for
some winter sun, or if you just
can’t take off the shades in the
darker months, Chrome
Hearts sunglasses cannot
avoid transporting you a
million miles for some luxury
joie de vivre this winter.
Featuring their signature
rockstar-esque fleur-de-lys,
dagger and floral cross
designs across their luxury
silver range, Chrome Hearts is
a status symbol brand with
boutiques in New York, Tokyo,
Paris and Honolulu, and a
clientele that includes Cher,
Ben Affleck, Mischa Barton
and Karl Lagerfeld.
From the exotic wood, fine
leather, precious stones and
sterling silver decorations, to
the latest optical technology,
to the gothic iconography, the
Chrome Hearts collection is
justifiably one of the most
expensive eyewear collections
ever produced.
Chrome Hearts sunglasses
are available in Flannels
including styles with pearl side
inlay and 22 carat gold plated
with leather detailing.
Stock up from our treasure
trove of accessories for men
& women especially selected
to bring a touch of opulence
to the darker seasons.
THY
CHIEFEST
TREASURE...
opposite: white & gold
sunglasses £1015 and black &
silver sunglasses £1375 both by
CHROME HEARTS
this page: cream bag ZAGLIANI
£1495, pewter bag MIU MIU
£620, purple bag MARC BY
MARC JACOBS £365, pink bag
MARC BY MARC JACOBS £310,
shoes PRADA £475
74 AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
75
TOYWATCH
If the watch on your wrist
defines your personality,
then Italian watchmaker,
Toywatch, says playful
indulgence with its
oversized fashion
timepieces. Designer and
vintage watch devotee,
Marco Mavilla, has made his
own brand of watches
fashionable and colourful,
mixing luxury with fun and
getting serious with his
maniacal attention to detail,
great chunky shapes,
materials from steel to
crystal to high-tech
polycarbonates to
ceramics. Described as
‘Rolex meets Swatch’,
Toywatch’s creations are
the must-have accessory of
the moment, adorning the
wrists of Charlize Theron
and Uma Thurman, Mark
Wahlberg and Clive Owen.
Ranging from the
surprisingly affordable,
Toywatch have watches
for everyone, from outfit
matching plastic styles to
the super-luxe uber sleek
black ceramics. With
classic lines and Miyota
Quartz Movement,
Toywatch is a luxury
brand that is here to stay.
Ranges available at
Flannels this season
include styles from the
Crystal, Total Stones,
All Black, Strong and
Oversize collections. Also
available will be the neon
Toywatch Fluo Collection.
opposite: Black Face
Odemans (top right) £255,
Black Diamond Face
(middle left) £265, Web
Strap (bottom) £135 all by
TOYWATCH
this page top left: belt
GUCCI £185, wallet PAUL
SMITH £140, round and
square cufflinks PAUL
SMITH £55, money clip
£70 and dog tag necklace
£160 both DOLCE &
GABBANA
this page top right from
bottom: PAUL SMITH
holdall £240, brown
messenger bag D&G £165,
black clip bag PRADA
£725, mahogany holdall
GUCCI £955, black hat
GUCCI £155
this page opposite from
left: black shoes PRADA
£350, brown boots
MAGNANNI £265, antique
boots DOLCE & GABBANA
£500, stitch loafer
JEFFERY WEST £145
76
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
77
from bottom: black and
silver bangle DIOR £185,
brown and gold cuff
ROBERTO CAVALLI £430,
logo cuff FENDI £125
red wallet MIU MIU £155, purple
and pink crystal necklace MIU MIU
£160, pink bag MARC BY MARC
JACOBS £310, gold ‘Marc’
necklace MARC BY MARC JACOBS
£60, purple and cream cuff
ROBERTO CAVALLI £430, purple
ring ROBERTO CAVALLI £160, jade
charm ring DIOR £130
photographer CLARE PRENTICE
stylist BRITTA BURGER
assistant RACHEL EDWARDS
men’s shoes photography TOM VAN
SCHELVEN
78
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
79
New Age
of Ford
words Elizia Volkmann
photography Tom Van Schelven
Tom Ford changed the way men dress when he joined Gucci and gave men
a new found confidence to be bold and daring with their personal style.
Now in a perfect pairing, Flannels, having spear headed the move towards
luxury brands and dressing beyond fashion in the north of England, are
about to become the only outlet outside of London for Tom Ford Menswear.
H
is departure from Gucci was nothing short
of high drama. Dressed in his signature
black tuxedo, open necked white shirt and
a gardenia in his buttonhole, Tom Ford
swept out of the building with dashing aplomb. After
a few years building up his own Tom Ford brand,
starting with eyewear and beauty, he has come back
to his first love, designing first-rate menswear. Ford
has always been a fan of the very best of British and
Italian tailoring, and by some magical act of alchemy,
he takes a clothes form that could so easily be staid
and formal into another dimension. Clothes certainly
do maketh the man and Tom Ford clothes maketh a
man sexy, confident, and powerful. Tom is most
definitely back exuding his very personal savoir faire
through his menswear to make it some of the most
desired men’s clothing in the world.
Ford has said that with the Tom Ford label, he is
embracing exclusivity and turning his back on the
super-brands and masstige that have dominated the
fashion market since the mid 90s. Ironically while the
high street is taking a deep breath as the credit crunch
kicks in, the super lux brands are seeing customers
wisely investing in high quality key pieces to create a
personal look that is also fashion durable. But there is
nothing sober or quiet about Tom’s new collection of
menswear. Bold checks and big floppy bow ties hail a
new era in male style. Tom is inviting a new generation
to embrace good tailoring, and craftsmanship, maybe
even wear smoking jackets - something that was the
norm for our gentlemanly grandfathers is now a
rejuvenated vogue.
Tom Ford’s success at Gucci boiled down to the
fact that he understood sex appeal with simple
elegant style. He doesn’t indulge in the theatrical
extravagance of Parisian couture designers; his
American heritage is the strong man of the movies.
Tom Ford also knows that the play boy partying and
revelry that Scott Fitzgerald described in the Great
Gatsby back in the roaring twenties has never died,
but it is in dire need a solid injection of class and style.
The look is sharp; it is devil may care varying from
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
testosterone enhancing double breast pin stripe to
dandyish checked three piece suits, to camel and
cashmere coats and fur trimming, to ski wear for
that essential trip to Klosters, with chunky, manly
knits, jeans and big furry hats. Tom has created a
morning to bedtime wardrobe for the self assured,
dashing rake, including outrageous jewel coloured
dressing gowns and a range of men’s eveningwear
including the perfect black tails and white tie that
the archetypal playboy, The Great Gatsby himself
would have been glad to wear.
Starting a luxury brand from scratch is no small
task. The menswear range has arisen thanks to his
shrewd alliance with the Ermenegildo Zegna Group,
synonymous with quality and craftsmanship. The
design of the Ford menswear range takes the best
from both English and Italian tailoring. Hand made
shirts match suits and shoes that are made by
master craftsmen in Naples with the finest quality
leathers. The made to measure range can be mixed
with his ready to wear clothes and luxury
accessories, which are distributed globally in luxury
fashion stores. The made to measure is only available
in New York, however, the Tom Ford empire is
growing. With stores as far flung as Baku, Azerbaijan
opening this autumn, a new age of Ford has begun.
Tom Ford is available exclusively in the north of
England at Flannels St Ann’s Square store,
Manchester.
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
www.kiton.it
DEEPEST
CUT
Raffaele
Caruso
The suit has been
reinvigorated in the last
few years. It is
extremely fashionable
again; but now with top
quality bespoke
tailoring and ready to
wear classics available
from both European
and British labels, the
choice at Flannels is
quite breathtaking.
photographer ANTONY CROOK
stylist CAMILLA POLE
Sartorial craftsmanship and
classic, minimalist suit
designs make Raffaele
Caruso a choice with
character and beautiful
detail that will never run
out of style. Elite tailor,
Raffaele Caruso, first
opened a shop in Parma in
the Emilia-Romagna region
of Italy in 1958. Now
managed by his sons,
Alberto and Nicola Caruso,
the company is recognised
the world over for the
refined quality of its
production. The shop is still
there – but now the
Raffaele Caruso collection
is an international
expression of tailoring
tradition that is constantly
being renewed and restyled
making the label amongst
the most recognised
companies worldwide for
men’s suits.
At Flannels, Raffaele Caruso
is ready to wear and made
to measure.
left & right: suits by
RAFFAELE CARUSO
84
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
85
Prada
Boglioli
With their ‘neo-vintage’
style, Boglioli enjoy the
experience of four
generations of Boglioli
family tailors. Based in
Brescia, Italy, their ‘Take it
as it is’ slogan sewn into
each lining of sums up the
quality and style of the
label. In his official
presidential portrait,
Nicolas Sarkozy was not
dressed by Parisian tailors,
but by Boglioli which has
become something of a
cult favourite among
Parisians. Philosopher
Bernard-Henri Lévy wears
Boglioli, and on the
international scene,
customers include Bill
Clinton and Mick Jagger
and Flavio Briatore.
Synonymous with luxury, a
Prada suit wraps the
wearer in its modern, slick
lines. Prada have
deservedly built their
reputation as a luxury
brand over the decades;
Italian through and through
but they are not about
showy, one-up-manship.
Their suits have a simple,
clean, at ease with
themselves, perfection that
is often imitated. A Prada
suit is cut to perfection and
extremely wearable. As
functional as they are
iconic, they make men feel
better about themselves
when they wear one. And
that surely is the point of a
good suit.
All by PRADA, watch from a
selection at COTTRILLS
Boglioli is available at
Flannels.
suit by BOGLIOLI
86
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
87
Kilgour
Paul Smith
There is a definite London
strut to Paul Smith’s suits.
They are quintessentially
English with a definite
hint of mischief in the
brand which comes very
much from the designer
himself. A staunch British
icon, Nottingham based
Smith mixes hints of old
classic British tailoring
with a bit of youth culture
swagger and a touch of
flamboyant colour. And
Paul Smith himself is still
very much the force
behind the label and this
matters, with a personal
nature and personality in
the quality and style of
each suit.
top: jacket, shirt and tie all
by PAUL SMITH LONDON
bottom: jacket and shirt by
PAUL SMITH LONDON
88
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
Kilgour’s provenance and style
is undisputed, with clients
including Daniel Craig, Jamie
Redknapp, Jude Law and Ray
Winstone. The appointment of
Carlo Brandelli as Creative
Director in 2003 saw the
modernisation of the brand’s
image whilst staying true to its
unique 1882 bespoke heritage.
Clean lines, razor-sharp
tailoring and a subtle colour
palette combine to provide the
wearer with refined, modern
tailoring infused with a
timeless elegance.
Kilgour’s debut on the
international fashion stage
took place during Paris fashion
week in June this year. The
emergence of Kilgour as an
international luxury goods
brand continues to gather
pace as the name becomes
increasingly sought after
around the world.
Kilgour is available at Flannels.
All by KILGOUR
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
89
www.alessandrogherardi.com
At Flannels, we have built
our name around quality
and luxury, and above all
we select clothing that
stands for modern style
and meticulous attention
to detail. That’s why when
we created our own
suiting range, we were
determined that it would
be a modern classic creating a confident and
timeless look.
Collaborating with one of
the UK’s top tailoring
companies, these suits
look as good as they feel.
Confidence breeds
confidence, and the feel
and fit of a suit is as
important as how it looks
to the outside world.
Combining high quality
fabric and detailing, the
Flannels Tailoring range is
a premium choice for the
style conscious which
represents exceptional
value.
suit by FLANNELS
TAILORING £495
direction AMECHI IHENACHO
grooming LYZ MARSDEN using Shu
Uemura skin care
hair SASSOON CREATIVE TEAM |
SASSOON.COM
styling assistant AMANDA EVANS
models IVAN SILIC @ NEVS, PAUL
MITCHELL @ STORM
90
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
91
moc.idrarehgordnassela.www
Flannels
Tailoring
Aphrodite
Class
In a Cyprus once reserved for mass tourism, the modern Aphrodite
might sneak into a modern spa, or spend a night or two in one of the
cool new boutique hotels that are cropping up along the coastlines.
hen the capricious
Aphrodite, goddess
of love and beauty,
rose from the waves
at Petra tou Romiou on the shores
of Southern Cyprus, she would
have known that the island in the
south-eastern corner of the
Mediterranean was just right for a
goddess who demanded her fair
share of pampering. Cyprus’
Graeco-Roman bathing
establishments with their
ingenious heating systems and
mosaic decorated pools would
surely have captured the beautiful
Olympian’s fancy. If the
marketeer’s dream of a goddess is
still around, and numerous
mentions of her name – from the
‘Aphrodite class’ of Cyprus Airways
to Aphrodite resorts, Aphrodite
wedding services and obviously
Aphrodite cocktails – seem to
suggest just that, she might sneak
into one of the modern spas, or
spend a night in the cool new
boutique hotels that are cropping
up along the coastlines in places
once reserved for mass tourism.
The Londa Hotel’s stylish
Honeymoon Suite with its circular
bed and spectacular sea-views
would be particularly appropriate
for the original fashionista, but the
resort’s 67 other rooms and suites
don’t lag far behind in the style
stakes. The mix of immaculate
minimal design and handmade
finishings is the result of a multi
million refurbishment and style
makeover by Milanese design team
Caruzzo Rancati that earned the
‘couture’ hotel just outside of
92
Limassol the World travel Award
for ‘Cyprus’ Leading Hotel’ last year.
Swimming in the stunning pool only
yards from the beach one can gaze
out to sea or look up to the
imposing 70s architecture that is
the pinnacle of retro cool. And after
a night at the hotel cocktail bar,
there’s always the Londa spa with
its massages and facials that
restore, balance, stimulate,
energise and detoxify all at once.
The ancient Cypriots were very
clued up on the revitalising effects
of a spa treatment. Apart from the
odd infidel flung from the rugged
cliffs or the bloodthirsty gladiator
games, one of the island’s most
famous sites, Kourion, a few miles
west of Limassol, is a perfect
example of this ancient savoir
vivre. Its cultured inhabitants spent
whole days in the settlement’s
baths, hopping from one pool to
the next, and from steam room to
massage area, when further north
our ancestors were still covered in
dirt. Alternatively they enjoyed a
night out at Kourion’s magnificent
amphitheatre, where there are
performances to this day.
Watching a show there is best with
a bottle of wine, ideally the famous
sweet Commandaria, and a
selection of food that, with Cyprus’
olive groves, citrus orchards and
vineyards, just keeps coming.
Cypriots have always known
how to enjoy life, but there is
something else that catches the
attention wandering through the
ruins of Kourion. In Eustolios’ villa
there are splendid mosaics
depicting Apollo and the ancient
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
gods, but the wealthy man also
commissioned artworks with
obvious Christian symbolism, just
to be on the safe side; one of many
signs that show how varied and
troubled Cyprus’ tangled history
has been and, with the division of
the island into Greek Cypriot in the
South and Turkish Cypriot in the
North, still is. Although not all
intruders were welcome at the
time, the marks they left – Greek
and Roman temples and mosaics,
UNESCO listed Byzantine
churches, Crusader castles – are
the very reason for culture
afficionados to come to Cyprus.
Fashionistas who are tired of the
riches of the past shouldn’t miss a
trip to Limassol. Creative geniuses
can take their own dream shoe
design to ‘Sabrina’s Shoes’ and it
will be made within weeks, and
Theodoros Theodorou’s tiny shop
overflows with rare jewellery
delights in gold and silver. The
harbour town has recently seen the
advent of cool bars in redeveloped
old warehouses perfect for
après-shopping relaxation.
Clubbing on the other hand is a
relatively niche activity in Cyprus
where dinners often last into the
morning. But anyone who’s not
prepared to eat the night away,
should head to Notes nightclub
where the locals come out to play.
Dancing is the domain of peacock
males with a penchant for
exaggerated moves, whereas the
female disco experience is reduced
to a few tentative pirouettes and
throwing baskets full of carnations
at the boys. Well worth watching!
Theodoros Theodorou
Theodorou Jewellery
34C Anexartisias St.
3040 Limassol
Tel: 25369933
Sabrina Shoes
202 St. Andrew’s St.
CY 3304 Limassol
Cyprus
Tel: 253 52943
Thanks to Classic Collection
Holidays (www.classic-collection.
co.uk) who offer packages at the
Londa Hotel that include return
flights and private transfers.
words Britta Burger
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
93
I]Z7BL
7BL(HZg^Zh
(HZg^Zh8dje‚
8dckZgi^WaZ
Everybody
Icon
From spectacular crystal chandeliers to the
lucid symmetry of transparent glass seating
to constellations of geometric metallic
cupboards, the range is truly vast, and I think
everybody’s icon is here at Stocktons.
W
e all have an image in our head of the perfect chair (and the perfect shoe, car and house!), or if
it’s not in our head already we would certainly recognise it when we see it. Of course
everyone’s ideal is unique, so that is of course where design comes in. And for those of us who
are lucky or inventive or prosperous enough, design lets us mould our environment to suit our
material and spiritual needs. From the spectacular to the mass-produced, from lifestyle to necessity, in an
era where design is omni-present, it exudes into every area of our existence.
So what is iconic furniture? It is a must have – but it is not the must have of a magazine or a celebrity or a tv
makeover show. It is My Chair, My shoe, My icon. From the pure forms of Bauhaus or the sophistication of Art
Deco; opulent theatrical drama to cool minimalist elegance to classic luxurious tradition. It could be anything,
so it’s quite fascinating to find such a collection of iconic items in one place. Stores like this are rare – as you
walk around Stocktons, you feel like Alice in Wonderland continually falling down a different rabbit hole to
find a new world of furniture design. From spectacular crystal chandeliers to gigantic eight foot pure white
cabinets to the lucid symmetry of transparent glass seating to lush leather sofas with rotating seating to
constellations of geometric metallic cupboards, the range is truly vast, and I think everybody’s icon is here.
Lovingly compiled by this family of furniture connoisseurs over the last fifty years, the Stockton’s collection
is the best in contemporary and traditional design. You will find furniture’s international elite here - Desede
using only the finest Swiss and German leather in their seating; John Sankey’s sumptuously deep loungers;
Tom Schneider’s ethically sourced materials and distinctive sense of movement; Cor’s sculptural sofas. And
there are many more unique examples of master craftsmanship - classics for sure, or dead-cert icons of the
future. So, close your eyes and think of a chair. And odds are you’ll find it at Stocktons.
Stocktons is at 140 Great Ancoats Street, Manchester M4 6DU or see www.stocktons.co.uk.
Hd]di!^i¿hXdda#
7BL(HZg^Zh8dckZgi^WaZ#
;dg[jgi]Zg^c[dgbVi^dcdgidWdd`ndjgiZhiYg^kZ”!
eaZVhZXdciVXindjgcZVgZhiL^aa^Vbhh]dlgddbidYVn#
EaZVhjgZ^cYgdkZh#
I]Z7BL(HZg^Zh8dje‚#
IdWdd`ndjgiZhiYg^kZ!eaZVhZXdciVXi
ndjgcZVgZhiL^aa^Vbhh]dlgddbidYVn#
L^aa^Vbh
I]ZY^[[ZgZcXZ^hL^aa^Vbh
lll#l^aa^Vbh\gdje#Xd#j`
7daidc
A^kZgedda
BVcX]ZhiZg
GdX]YVaZ
IZa/%&'%).%%.%%
IZa/%&*&),)'%%%
IZa/%&+&.%,*&%%
IZa/%&,%+,&,,%%
&)&"&).7gVYh]Vl\ViZ!
7daidc!7A'&7E#
)<gZVi=dlVgYHigZZi!
A^kZgedda!A(,=I#
)*JeeZg7gdd`HigZZi!
BVcX]ZhiZg!B&(.LH#
<dggZahLVn!Vii]ZZcYd[i]Z6+',B!
GdX]YVaZ!DA&&'EM#
D[ÇX^Va[jZaZXdcdbnÇ\jgZh[dgi]Z7BL(HZg^Zh8dckZgi^WaZgVc\Z/:migVJgWVc*)#("(-#,be\*#'",#(a$&%%`b#
JgWVc(&#)"&.#%be\.#%"&)#.a$&%%`b#8dbW^cZY)'#-"'-#*be\+#+".#.a$&%%`b#8D'Zb^hh^dch&*,"'(-\$`b#
94
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
I]Z7BL(HZg^Zh8dckZgi^WaZgVc\Z[gdb—(&!%'*dci]ZgdVY#BdYZa[ZVijgZY^hi]Z7BL('%^H:8dckZgi^WaZVi—(&!%'*dci]ZgdVYl^i]dei^dcVaXgZVbWZ^\ZaZVi]Zg#Dci]ZgdVYeg^XZhVgZWVhZYdcbVcj[VXijgZg¿h
gZXdbbZcYZYgZiV^aeg^XZVcY^cXajYZh("nZVg7BL9ZVaZgLVggVcin!7BL:bZg\ZcXnHZgk^XZ!&'bdci]h¿gdVY[jcYa^XZcXZ!kZ]^XaZÇghigZ\^higVi^dc[ZZ!YZa^kZgn!cjbWZgeaViZhVcYK6I#Eg^XZhVgZXdggZXiVii^bZd[
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLannelsFASHION.com
\d^c\ideg^ciVcYhjW_ZXiidX]Vc\Zl^i]djicdi^XZ#”IZhiYg^kZhjW_ZXiidVeea^XVcihiVijhVcYVkV^aVW^a^in#
93
016997 Flannels ad A4
11/8/08
09:44
Page 1
Online
Flannels virtual boutique at
www.flannelsfashion.com
www.flannelsfashion.com
is a virtual boutique of multi-brand
online fashion, offering the stylesavvy exactly what he or she
wants – unprecedented access to
Flannels hottest looks of the
season from international luxury
labels via express delivery.
Featuring a capsule of the
Flannels collections, there are
hundreds of products available
online with new lines being added
every week. So you can shop
online knowing you are looking at
the best brands and latest trends,
with Flannels impeccable service.
Shopping at
www.flannelsfashion.com
Shop:
Find your favourite label by
typing the name into the
search box and click
Select:
Pick the correct size and
colour then add the item to
your ‘wish list’
Buy:
When you have finished
shopping go to the
checkout and follow the on
screen instructions to make
your purchase
Register as a new user today at
www.flannelsfashion.com to receive 10%
off your first purchase, plus the latest
Flannels news updates.
Delivery:
STANDARD UK or NEXT
DAY. WORLDWIDE
SHIPPING ALSO
AVAILABLE
Full terms and conditions available online.
FLANNELS Store Card
Interest free
Difficult decision? Can’t decide whether to buy that jacket – or do you really want
the whole suit? Apply for an interest-free store card today and make the decision a
simple one. Have the suit if you want it and enjoy tomorrow’s money today.
!
!
!
Spread the cost of your purchases
0% interest for 5 months
Take your purchases home today
Hi life
fashion
society
spirits
class
With hotels in most leading cities
across the country we’re perfectly
placed to let you enjoy the best in
shopping, nightlife and time out.
That’s why we are offering you
fantastic discounts on both your
stay and your shopping.
up
to
So, isn't it high time you gave us a try?
Available in store now
For legal information and terms and conditions, please visit www.flannelsfashion.com.
40% off
your stay when you book at
www.hilton.com/flannels
www.hilton.com/flannels
10% off
Flannels Manchester
St Anns and
King Street Stores
when you stay at
Hilton Manchester
FLANNELS
Subject to availability. Terms and conditions apply. Up to 40% discount represents a saving from Hilton’s Fully Flexible prices. Offer valid for stays until 31 December 2008, inclusive. All bookings are subject to
availability and allocation of rooms. Full pre-payment is required at time of booking and bookings are non-changeable and non-refundable. For full terms and conditions visit hilton.co.uk/flannels To redeem
10% discount at Flannels Manchester St Anns and King Street stores, customers need to present their Hilton booking confirmation to one of the sales assistants within these stores.
Flannels Ad High-Res:Layout 1
BRAND DIRECTORY
ALTRINCHAM
MENSWEAR
7/8 GOOSE GREEN
WA14 1DW
Tel: 0161 941 2332
BIRMINGHAM
A
Affliction
Allegri
Altea Ties
Amal Guessous
Armani Jeans
L
La Martina
Les Hommes
Lubiam
Luke
Luke Roper
14 LOWER TEMPLE STREET
THE BURLINGTON ARCADE
B2 4JD
Tel: 0121 633 4154
B
Billionaire Boys Club/Ice
Cream
Boglioli
Brogden
UNIT MSU4
EASTERN MALL
THE BULLRING
B5 4BF
Tel: 0121 643 5453
C
Canali
Caruso
Citizens of Humanity
CP Company
Chrome Hearts
M
Magnanni
Maharishi
Mario Matteo
MHI
Moncler
Monnington
Morelli
CARDIFF
D
D&G
Dolce Gabbana
Dolce Gabbana Gym
LANDMARK PLACE
CHURCHILL WAY
CF10 2DY
Tel: 02920 374 079
LEEDS
68/78 VICAR LANE
LS1 7JH
Tel: 0113 234 9977
LIVERPOOL
UNIT 13/38
THE MET QUARTER
VICTORIA STREET
L1 6JB
Tel: 0151 236 0552
MANCHESTER
55 KING STREET
M2 4LQ
Tel: 0161 839 7824
E
Elvis Jesus & Co
Emanuele Maffeis
Emma Hope
Etro
Ettiene Ozeki
Evisu
F
Fabrizio Del Carlo
G
Garbstore
Gherardi
Giorgio Armani Collezioni
Girbaud
Gorilla
Great China Wall
Gucci
H
Holland Esquire
Hugo
Hugo Boss Black
Hugo Boss Green
Hugo Boss Orange
4 ST. ANN’S PLACE
M2 7LP
Tel: 0161 832 5536
I
Indigo Farm
Italo Ferretti
G9 THE DESIGNER OUTLET
THE LOWRY CENTRE
SALFORD QUAYS
M5 2WZ
Tel: 0161 877 5770
J
Jeffrey West Black Label
John Smedley
Journey
NOTTINGHAM
K
Kilgour
Kiton
K-Way
34/36 BRIDLESMITH GATE
NG1 2GQ
Tel: 0115 947 6466
14:18
Page 1
www.stocktons.co.uk
FLANNELS
STORE LISTING
11/8/08
WOMENSWEAR
N
Nicholas Deakins
Nigel Cabourn
O
One True Saxon
P
Paul & Shark
Paul Smith Accessories
Paul Smith Jeans
Paul Smith London
Placed By Gideon
Porsche Adidas
Prada
Prada Linea Rossa
Prada Linea Rossa Denim
Project E Vintage
PRPS
Puma Mcqueen
R
Ralph Lauren
S
Saitt
Saviour
Stetson Hats
Stone Island
Stone Island Shadow
Stone Island Denim
T
Taddei Harmarnee
Toy Watch
Tom Ford
True Love & False Idols
Tough Jeanswear
UV
Unity
Vivienne Westwood
W
Walsh
Wensum Tailoring
William Hunt
Woolrich Blue Line
XYZ
Y3
Year Of
Yohji Yamamoto Y’s
Zegna
6267
A
Ash
D
D&G
Day Birger
Diane Von Furstenberg
Dior
Dior Jewellery
Dolce & Gabbana
F
Fendi
G
Giambattista Valli
Girbaud
Gucci
Gucci Scarves
H
Herve Leger
Hoss Intropia
J
J.Brand
James Jeans
Joseph
Just Cavalli
M
Malene Birger
Manoush
Marc By Marc Jacobs
Matthew Williamson
Miu Miu
Moncler
Moschino Cheap ‘n’ Chic
O
Ossie Clark
P
Patrizia Pepe
Prada
Prada Linea Rossa
R
Ramosport
Roberto Cavalli
S
Sonia Rykiel
T
Theory
Tibi
Tods
UV
Vanessa Bruno
Vivienne Westwood
Vivienne Westwood Jewellery
XYZ
YSL
Zagliani
the fashion house of furniture
1 4 0 G r e a t A n c o a t s S t r e e t , M a n c h e s t e r M 4 6 D U Te l : 0 1 6 1 2 7 3 5 3 3 1
AUTUMN/WINTER 2008 WWW.FLANNELSFASHION.COM
Established 1953