Zurich - In Your Pocket
Transcription
Zurich - In Your Pocket
Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels Zurich April - May 2015 Pick it quick Zurich’s best on one page Spring surprises Burning snowmen and a bike tour into the wild FREE COPY inyourpocket.com N°28 Contents Arriving & Getting Around 6 Get your bearings City Basics 8 Facts, habits, attitudes History 12 Once upon a time Spring cycling tour 13 An easy cycling excursion for a sunny day Culture & Events 14 Concerts, shows and exhibitions Quick picks 18 19 Shopping 41 Watches & Jewellery 47 Where to find the one you’re looking for 29 Chocolate, coffee and conversation Nightlife 34 Fancy fashion and Swiss design Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more Cafés Sightseeing Churches, murals and museums The editors’ favourites on one page Restaurants The local spring custom Sächsilüüte is not only about burning snowmen - it’s a colourful event (p. 15). For more spring action AM see our cycling tour on p. 13. Zurich Nord 52 Restaurants and bars in the north of the city 30 Bars, pubs and clubs Zurich for kids 53 Major fun for minor citizens Daytrips 54 Mountains, monasteries, museums Queer Zurich 56 Hotels 57 Hotels, hostels, pensions Directory 61 Maps & Index For at-a-glance recommendations, try the editor’s picks on p. 18 including Thermalbad and Spa Zurich. swiss-image.ch/Beat Hübscher Advertisement NIEDERDORF MARKTGASSE 12 - ZÜRICH MA R KTGA SS E 12 - Z Ü R I C H facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket City map Index Public transport map 62-64 65 66 Advertisement Oberdorfstrasse 25 - Zürich April - May 2015 3 Foreword Spring tends to arrive in Zurich with a bang. A bang at six o’clock, that is! That’s when the head of the snowman-like Böögg explodes in the centre of Zurich (or a little later), on April 13 this year. This cruel execution of the snowman – and winter with it – is part of the local custom called Sächsilüüte, which is unique to Zurich. It’s accompanied by a large procession which is quite a spectacle (see p. 15). But some citizens of Zurich – and even more so the Swiss from neighbouring cantons – sniff at it. For them, Sächsilüüte is just the Zurich establishment showing off in their usual arrogant way. Big city Zurich is not popular everywhere in Switzerland. But it’s just the usual neighbourly bickering you get elsewhere too. And Sächsilüüte is cultural heritage! Actually, it’s on the national inventory of living traditions. (Which really does exist: www.living-traditions.ch). Switzerland has proposed eight of these to be designated world intangible cultural heritage by the UN. The shortlist does include some surprises – and things that go bang. Avalanche management for instance, which is done by throwing explosives at snowy slopes. Or Swiss graphic design. Sächsilüüte, however, did not make it onto the list. Maybe the neighbours weren’t quite ready for that. Publisher pocket publishing GmbH Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich tel. +41 32 510 85 76 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.ch Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000) ISSN 1663-9944 © pocket publishing GmbH 2015 Editorial Editors Chris Young & Lukas Füglister; Research Roman Wasik & MBS-crew; Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman; Photos Juan Rubiano (www.juanrubiano.com), Agata Muszyńska (AM), Zurich In Your Pocket (ZIYP), Zurich Tourism: Caroline Minjolle (CM), Martin Rütschi (MR), Bruno Macor (BM), Gaetan Bally (GB); Cover © iStock.com/AleksandarGeorgiev Sales & Circulation General Manager Lukas Füglister Sales Manager Susi Haefeli, tel. +41 32 511 28 68, [email protected] Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch, closing date next issue: May 12, 2015 Copyright notice & Editor’s note Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH (unless otherwise stated). Photos copyright photographers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. COVER STORY Our cover shows the core of Zurich’s old town on the river Limmat, with the tower of St. Peter to the left and the Rathaus sitting in the water on the right. Zurich’s more recent towers rise up in the background. Photo: © iStock.com/AleksandarGeorgiev ABOUT IYP ESTONIA RUSSIA LATVIA LITHUANIA NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM POLAND UKRAINE GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA SWITZERLAND ITALY HUNGARY SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO ROMANIA GEORGIA BULGARIA FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA 4 Zurich In Your Pocket Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently carrying out a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to: we will rolling out the new inyourpocket.com throughout April and May. Place your bet on more entertainment Make your stay in Zurich a little more glamorous and much more entertaining. Swiss Casinos Zürich is open every day from 11:00 am to 4:00 am, and until 5:00 am on Fridays and Saturdays. In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). zurich.inyourpocket.com Haus Ober, Gessnerallee 3 – 5, 8001 Zurich, www.swisscasinos.ch Arriving & Getting Around ARRIVING BY PLANE Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival 1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00 (groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and a free Wi-fi for the first 60 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’. To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and from the airport is by train. Take one of the fast trains or slower S-trains leaving from the underground train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main station), it’s the right train. Up to ten trains leave an hour and the journey takes roughly ten minutes. Tickets can be bought at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.60Sfr and valid for one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just twice the price or consider buying a ZürichCARD (see p. 36). If you’re running down Bahnhofstrasse to catch that train: aim for Zurich Tourism (CM) the big arch. A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same tickets as for the trains are valid. Good option if your hotel is in Zurich Nord. ARRIVING BY TRAIN Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the main hall, where you will find ticket offices and the tourist information (called Tourist Service, see p. 10). Trams, buses and taxis leave just outside the station. At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets 6 Zurich In Your Pocket Arriving & Getting Around for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call +41 900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min). ARRIVING BY BUS Buses from other European countries arrive at the bus station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, E-1), two minutes walk north from the main train station. Zurich sightseeing buses start here as well. ARRIVING BY CAR The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich City the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can try to find a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your arrival time on your parking disk. Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr (available at petrol stations and post offices). Remember that trams always have right of way, as well as pedestrians on zebracrossings without traffic lights. The legal alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which should allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before driving. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways. In residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often 30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has agreements with many European countries to make sure you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate. You may use your home driving license in Switzerland as long as it is valid - if the license is a non EU-one and in a language other than French, English, Italian or German it is recommended that it be accompanied by an international one. PUBLIC TRANSPORT Trains The train network is fast, reliable and extensive. For getting around in Switzerland, trains are definitely best - from Zurich there are connections to all the major Swiss cities once or twice an hour. The state owned train company is called SBB. For time tables refer to www.sbb.ch. Tickets are sold on vending machines (switch them to English on the first screen) and at the counters in the main hall at Zurich main train station. You can purchase single and return tickets. Children up to 5 travel for free, from 6 - 16 years they pay the half-fare. If you plan on travelling around Switzerland a lot, get a halffare card for one month for 120Sfr - and travel for half the fare on all public transport. A convenient option could also be the Swiss Travel Pass which gives you unlimited transport on the whole Swiss network for 3 to 15 days (179 - 774Sfr, available at all train stations). If you board a train without a valid ticket, you will have to pay a fine of 90Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com City transport Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses, local trains and ships on the lake and on the river. The ticket system is fairly simple: Zurich’s cantonal network is divided into zones. So you don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is one zone, zone number 110 (see map page 66). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones on all kinds of transport. For getting around the city (zone 110) a day pass valid for 24 hours will cost you 8.60Sfr, a single ticket valid for 1 hour 4.30Sfr. Children up to 5 travel for free, 6 - 16 year-olds pay the socalled half-fare (which actually is 3Sfr). These tickets can be purchased at the ticket machines you find at almost every stop (most of them now take credit cards). Be aware that Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you get caught without a valid ticket, it’s 90Sfr. For all questions about public transport, get advice at VBZ Ticketerias, situated at larger tram stops throughout the city. Another option is the ZürichCARD (24Sfr/24hrs, 48Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 and between the airport and the city, as well as giving you free entry to many museums. The Zurich card is available at most ticket machines, VBZ Ticketerias and at the Tourist Information. See p. 36 for more infromation. Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30. There are night buses in the nights Fri/Sat and Sat/Sun to all parts of the town. Most of them start at Bellevue and pass by Central and Escher-Wyss Platz. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket. Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone. Cutting-edge and vintage tram technology - occasionally both are PD in service. ZÜRI ROLLT - BIKES FOR FREE Bikes to borrow for free - all you need is an ID and 20Sfr as deposit. The Velostation Süd is in containers close to track 3, just outside the station. The northern one is close to track 18.QE-1, Hauptbahnhof / Velostation Nord & Süd, tel. +41 43 288 34 45, www.zuerirollt.ch. Nord open daily 08:00 - 21:30, Süd 08:00 - 19:30, Sat & Sun closed. CAR RENTAL All you need to rent a car in Switzerland is a credit card, an ID and a valid licence. AVISQC-3, Gartenhofstrasse 17, 8Werd, tel. +41 44 296 87 87, www.avis.ch. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 07:30 12:15, 13:15 - 16:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. TAXIS There are 1550 licenced taxis in Zurich and in general they are clean, safe, reliable - and expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even in rush hours. The city sets the following maximum prices for taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour. The actual fees have to be displayed on the door of the car. Taxi drivers have to and usually do use their metres, some companies allow you to negotiate a price in advance (the metre still has to be used as a control). You‘ll find taxis at official taxi stands. You can hail them from the streets as well. The ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. You can order their drivers over an app on your smartphone. Fares usually are significantly cheaper than standard taxi fares (initial fee 3-6Sfr, 1.35 - 3.40Sfr per kilometre, 0.30 - 0.50Sfr per minute). Find more information on www.uber.com. If in doubt stick with the following big companies (they both have smartphone apps for ordering them too): 11.01 NEW: graphic watches of Switzerland. 11.15 11.30 11.45 TAXI 444Qtel. +41 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch. TAXI 7X7Qtel. +41 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch. BICYCLES Many locals in Zurich get around town by bicycle. For the flat areas around Lake Zurich and the river, a bike is ideal. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket www.partime.ch SWISS MADE April - May 2015 7 City Basics City Basics DRINKING BASIC DATA The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are increasingly getting competition from innovative local brewers. Check out Sprint, Paul or Appenzeller for instance. Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the best may come from further south, you’ll find some very good Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the Zurich region. Traditional Swiss spirits are fruit brandies, cherry (Kirsch) and pear (Williams) being the most common. Area Switzerland: 41285 sq km Zurich (Canton): 1729 sq km Zurich (City): 92 sq km Population Switzerland: 8 million Zurich (city): 405,000 Official languages Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh Zurich: German ELECTRICITY Local time Central European (GMT+1h) CUSTOMS Switzerland is not member of the European customs union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the following customs and tax allowances apply (for other countries check with the according customs authorities): Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets are round and take three round pins - they can take Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from many other countries. HEALTH & EMERGENCY Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak basic English): Ambulance: 144 Police: 117 Firebrigade: 118 If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in medical centres, like Permanence at the main railway station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket and wait your turn (+41 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open 07:00 22:00), Notfall Zürich 3 (+41 43 811 81 18, Zypressenstrasse 39, open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, closed Sun) or mediX (+41 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse 41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has three public hospitals with emergency units which are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters. You can just walk in, but expect to wait: USEFUL ZURICH APPS A pleasant old-town spot under St. Peter. ZIYP Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 gr (50) of smoking tobacco. Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer. Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. Goods over these limits must be declared when entering a EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. In Switzerland there is duty free shopping for arriving passengers as well. 8 Zurich In Your Pocket The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time doorto-door timetable information for all public transport within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get from A to B. And it’s available in English. If you install the free app of the Swiss Federal Railways SBB Mobile, you can buy tickets as well. (App store and android market) ZüriPlan is a free app by the city of Zurich, offering a very exact map of Zurich with an integrated route planner for pedestrians and cyclists. The app is in German, but quite self-explanatory. On the downside, not all the maps are stored on your phone. But the parts of the maps which have been used are saved for one week. (App Store only) zurich.inyourpocket.com LANGUAGE SMARTS SMART PHONING Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘ in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. If you want to use your smartphone in Switzerland, you might consider buying a local prepaid card. This way your phone will be able to guide you through the city without clocking up sky-high roaming costs. As an extra plus, the In Your Pocket mobile website (m.inyourpocket.com) will work perfectly too. A prepaid card is only an option if your phone is not sim-locked. You’ll need an ID to get a card, which itself usually costs around 20Sfr. Here we list some of the prepaid cards, their prices and where to get them (rates are in Sfr per minute, as of March 2015). Hello (formal) Grüezi (groo-e-tsi) Goodbye (formal) Adieu (as in French) Thank you Merci (mersi) Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong) Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi) Switzerland D’Schwyz (t’shviiits) Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol) Zurich Züri (tsoori) EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL QG-2, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH / Universitätsspital, tel. +41 44 255 11 11. Open 24 / 7. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. +41 44 466 11 11. Open 24 / 7. EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID QK-4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. +41 44 366 20 55. Open 24 / 7. Pharmacies Pharmacies (Apotheke in German) on night duty are open 24 hours, a sign on every pharmacy’s door will tell you where the next pharmacy on duty is. You can also call +41 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min) which will connect you to the next pharmacy on duty. The pharmacy at main station (Bahnhofplatz 15, +41 44 225 42 42) is always open until midnight, the one at Bellevue always 24 / 7 (Theaterstrasse 14, +41 44 266 62 22). INTERNET / WI-FI In the era of laptops and smartphones internet cafés are not as necessary as they were. What you really need are hotspots. Many cafés and bars in Zurich have free Wi-fi for their customers. You will also find the commercial Wi-fi providers Monzoon and Swisscom all over the city (accessible with a credit card). Another possibility to stay connected with your smartphone during your stay in Switzerland is to buy a prepaid sim card for your phone. LANGUAGE Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%). Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country, where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect. However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket calls company domestic data where to buy calls abroad* OK.- mobile 0.15/0.22 0.15/0.20 8.50Sfr/500MB** k kiosks shops / Yallo 0.35 0.15 5Sfr/150MB** migros post offices m-budget 0.28 0.28 4.80/150 MB** migros mobile Lebara migros, coop, 0.25 0.19 4.90/120MB** simply post offices 0.30; max sunrise free 0.6 1Sfr per day sunrise shops 0.9 per call *to most European countries incl. UK and USA, landlines ** must be bought in advance and used within 1 month MAIL & PHONE Post: Swiss post is generally reliable, and also can take care of all your financial transactions. There are post offices all over the city - the Sihlpost close to the main train station is the one with the longest opening hours (see below). Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is (0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone numbers. Of course you only have to use this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in Switzerland, just ignore the +41 prefix, dial 0 and then the nine-digit number. SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take a ticket and wait for your turn. QD-2, Europaallee 11, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30, Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30. MONEY The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The coins in use are 1,2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and 50 rappen. You can change your money at the SBB change at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card from one of the ubiquitous ATM’s. Credit cards are widely accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip. April - May 2015 9 City Basics NATIONAL HOLIDAYS MARKET VALUES January 1 January 2 April 3, 2015 April 6, 2015 April 13, 2015 May 1 May 14, 2015 May 25, 2015 August 1 September 12, 2015 December 25 The Swiss national bank has abandoned its policy of tying the Swiss Franc to the Euro. Currently the exchange rate is quite stable at around 1.06 Sfr to the Euro. New Year Berchtold Day (local) Good Friday Easter Monday Sechseläuten (Zurich only) Labour Day (Zurich only) Ascension Whit Monday National Holiday Knabenschiessen (Zurich only) Christmas POLITICS The Swiss like to consider their country the home of direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting system and the seven-member government appointed by parliament always includes representatives of all of the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states which retain some independence and have their own constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is the capital and the seat of the parliament and the federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a member of the EU. Loaf of bread Cup of coffee 0.3 litre of beer (bar) Public transport ticket, 1 hr Packet of cigarettes McDonald‘s Big Mac 2-5Sfr 4-7Sfr 4-7Sfr 4.30Sfr 8Sfr 6.50Sfr (€1.85 - 4.70) (€3.70 - 6.55) (€3.70 - 6.55) (€4) (€7.50) (€6.05) RELIGION The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has loosened somewhat in recent decades. SWISS CHAMP SAFETY DIVEMASTER SPECTRA Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area, even for women at night. Be on guard against pickpockets just as in any European city. TOURIST SERVICE Zurich’s Tourism’s Tourist service is conveniently located in the main hall of the main train station. This is a onestop solution for all the information you might be missing - and much more. For personal advice at the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are some iPads for you to browse and check out the many offers like tours and venues and you can pick up leaflets and a city map. But they don’t just have advice, they also offer the following services. They... • will book city tours and excursions • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass • sell the ZürichCARD (see p. 36 for more infos) • can make hotel reservations • also sell tickets for events and museums, souvenirs and gift vouchers Last but not least you can always pick up the latest copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course. QMain hall of the main train station. Open 08:30 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. 10 Zurich In Your Pocket EXPLORER JACKET Hop on a boat here, or just take in the view: Bürkliplatz. FRAGRANCE AM SMOKING FUNCTIONALITY IS PART OF OUR FAMILY The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir). Flagship Store Genève | Rue de Marché 2 Flagship Store Zürich | Rennweg 58 Brand Store Brunnen | Bahnhofstrasse 3 VISAS For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate. zurich.inyourpocket.com MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | VICTORINOX.COM History Spring cycling tour XVI Century Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from 1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun was forbidden or strictly regulated. AN AFTERNOON IN THE SADDLE: CYCLING UP THE RIVER SIHL you - you’re at Allmend, a recreational area used by runners, cyclists and dogs walking their owners. There is a kiosk if you need to stock up on refreshments. Keep following the path on the left bank of the river (facing upstream). Now you’re in Sihltal, the Sihl valley, which is peppered with traces of its industrial past. Textile mills were built along the river in the 19th century, founding a major industry. The ride along the river takes you on a gradual transition from the city into the wild. And don't worry: the climb up the valley is very gentle and you can almost always avoid the main roads. NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER XVI - XVIII Century During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years. Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli. ZIYP RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE 100BC - X Century Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them the language that was to become today’s Swiss German (Schwyzerdüütsch). XIX - XX Century Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First World War and was refuge to the artists who started the Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971! ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR XII - XIV Century In the 13th Century Zurich became an imperial city, answering only to the emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. Zurich was now headed by a woman the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the guild of the shoemakers on the left). XX Century During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the socalled réduit strategy. ROMANS AND SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH ZURICH GOES SWISS… AND PROTESTANT XIV - XVI Century In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north all the way to the river Rhine. 12 Zurich In Your Pocket ZURICH TODAY XX - XXI Century After the war Switzerland’s economy boomed and mass immigration from Southern Europe set in, while culturally and politically Switzerland remained very conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth movements clashed with police, but also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highlyskilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today. zurich.inyourpocket.com Zurich Tourism (MR) Cycling is a great way to get out under the sun and discover a little more of Zurich and surroundings. And bikes are even free to borrow! Our suggested route follows the river Sihl, all the way to Langenberg Wildnispark, a wildlife park in a protected forest. Grab a bike, pack a picnic and off you go! On a bicycle, every scenic spot in and around Zurich is as close as a few turns of the pedals. And unlike when traveling by bus or train, you won't miss one breath of that spring air. Rather than taking to the hills, we suggest following the river Sihl for around an hour (around 12 km), from the main train station to Langenberg Wildnispark just outside Zurich. You don't even have to rent a bike – borrow one for free from the provisional bike station Züri rollt just outside the main train station near track 3 (see p. 7 for details). Roam the forest and see bears, wolves and beavers From the station, ride down Kasernenstrasse, cross the river at the first bridge (left) and turn right just after it, following the marked bike route n°94 (dark-red arrows, yellow bike icons on the road surface) on Gessnerallee. The route in the city is often on pedestrian paths, cycling is permitted here if you see the markings, but give way to pedestrians. Follow the path all along the river, at the large crossroads use the underground passage and keep following the footpath. Soon you will have one of the architectural sins of the 70ies above you: the motorway viaduct is built literally above the river! It's not very romantic for cycling, but it's only for a few minutes. And then suddenly you have greenery all around facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket The marked path crosses the river a few times, then in the village of Adliswil take the pedestrian bridge across the river and use the underground passage at Sihlau train station. See that wooded hill ahead? It’s Langenberg wildlife park! On Buttenaustrasse, turn right into Finsterrütistrasse and then left into Albisstrasse (we recommend riding on the pavement here) where you’ll find the entrance to the wildlife park on the left. Leaving your bike there, you can roam the forest and see indigenous wildlife like bears, wolves or beavers in enclosures – if you’re patient enough. The gentle ride back to Zurich is easy - if you are too tired, you can put your bike and yourself on a train back to the city. USEFUL DETAILS SIHLWALD WILDNISPARK Sihlwald is a forest left to its own devices with lots of wildlife, some in enclosures and accessible round the clock. Restaurant on site.Qwww.wildnispark.ch, tel. +41 44 722 55 22 ZÜRI ROLLT – pick up your free bikes here, all the details on page 7. MAPS/SIGNPOSTING Official cycling paths are signposted with dark red signs, our route follows one for most of the way. You can buy a map with all the cycling routes or check the website map.veloland.ch or download the free app SchweizMobil which gives you access to maps (requires you to be online). TRANSPORTING BIKES ON THE TRAIN You can transport your bike on most trains, look out for the bike icon next to the carriage doors. Bikes can usually be placed in the entrance area. You will need to get a ticket for the bike from the ticket machines as well as a ticket for yourself. No bikes in trains from and to Sihlwald from 06:00 - 08:00 and 16:00 - 19:00, as in all S-trains by the way. April - May 2015 13 Culture & Events Culture & Events Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle and elsewhere. Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring the continent. Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but unfortunately only few productions in English. We list the most important venues in the venue list and refer to them only by name in the event list. If the event takes place in a less usual venue, we indicate the full address in the preview. Events are listed in the categories classical music, exhibitions, festivals, rock, pop & jazz concerts and theatre & comedy. Within the sections it’s ordered by date. Of course there are way more events than we can list. We recommend checking out www.zueritipp.ch for more events. CLASSICAL MUSIC EXHIBITIONS 05.04 SUNDAY PRAGUE FESTIVAL ORCHESTRA: CARMINA BURANA & BOLÉRO Conductor: Rimma Sushanskaya, choir: Prague Festival Choir. Works by Carl Orff, Alexander Borodin & Maurice Ravel.QTonhalle. Concert starts 17:00, 45 - 135Sfr. 20.02 FRIDAY 10.05 SUNDAY MONET, GAUGUIN, VAN GOGH… JAPANESE INSPIRATIONS Japanese art is of fundamental importance to the development of European Modernism. For the first time in over 25 years, a comprehensive exhibition examines the phenomenon known as ‘Japonisme’. The focus is on the period from 1860 to 1910 - the early phase and heyday of Japanese art’s reception in France. Artists such as Monet, Gauguin and van Gogh, Bonnard and Degas depicted imported Japanese artworks and everyday objects in their own paintings, adopted Japanese imagery and internalized the visual idiom of the Japanese woodcut. The presentation comprises over 300 prestigious exhibits, including paintings and a representative selection of Japanese woodcuts by Hokusai, Hiroshige, Utamaro and others.QG-4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed & Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission 22/17Sfr. ZURICH VENUE LIST HALLENSTADION Zurich’s biggest concert and event hall. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch and tel. +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).QO-2, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, www.hallenstadion.ch. KAUFLEUTEN The Kaufleuten Festsaal hosts mostly blues, soul, rock and jazz concerts. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min) QD-3, Pelikanplatz, 8Sihlstrasse, www.kaufleuten.com. KOMPLEX 457 The city’s third largest concert hall, it mostly hosts rock concerts. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min) or www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/min).QHohlstrasse 457, 8Kappeli, tel. +41 44 500 00 60, www.komplex457.ch. KONGRESSHAUSQE-5, Gotthardstrasse 5, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 44 206 36 36, www.kongresshaus.ch. MOODS Zurich’s best address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).QK-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. +41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. ROTE FABRIK Centre for alternative culture: concerts, theater, parties and more. Tickets: www.starticket.ch, tel. +41 900 325 325 (1.19Sfr/min).QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, www.rotefabrik.ch. TONHALLE The Tonhalle is the place for classical music in Zurich. Tickets: www.tonhalle-orchester.ch, +41 44 206 34 34 (10:00 - 18:00)QE-5, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. VOLKSHAUS Concerts and other events, hall hosts up to 1600 people. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 or www.starticket.ch, +41 900 325 325 (both 1.19Sfr/min).QC-3, Stauffacherstrasse 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.volkshaus.ch. X-TRA Hall for mid-size concerts and parties on Limmatplatz. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800.QD-1, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz. 14 Zurich In Your Pocket The Tonhalle orchestra in full action. PD SECHSELÄUTEN 10.04 FRIDAY GRIGORY SOKOLOV Piano: Grigory Sokolov. Works by J. S. Bach, L. van Beethoven, Franz Schubert.QTonhalle. Concert starts 19:30, 24 - 112Sfr. 02.05 SATURDAY & 03.05 SUNDAY HAGEN QUARTET - MOZART CYCLE The Hagen Quartet plays the most famous quartets by W.A. Mozart in four concerts.QTonhalle. Cycle I starts Sat 18:00, cycle II Sat 21:00, cycle III Sun 11:15, cycle IV Sun 19:30, 20 - 75Sfr. 05.05 TUESDAY ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA Conductor: Willi Zimmermann, piano: Fazil Say. Works by Dmitri Shostakovich and L. van Beethoven.QTonhalle. Concert starts 19:30, 16 - 105Sfr. 19.05 TUESDAY ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA Conductor, violin & viola: Julian Rachlin. Works by J. S. Bach & W. A. Mozart.QTonhalle. Concert starts 19:30, 16 - 105Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com Winter lasts too long in many places and Zurich is no exception. The Zürcher (Zurich’s citizens) have their own solution to this problem: winter is officially chased away with the traditional spring festival Sechseläuten (Sächsilüüte in Swiss German). 26 Zurich guilds (Zünfte) parade through the city centre towards Bellevue, where the festival climaxes at exactly 18:00 when a snowman-like figure called Böögg (see photo above) is burned. When the Böögg’s head finally explodes the season of fog and cold feet is officially over (though there are no guarantees). Even if considered by some Zürcher as a rather oldfashioned and snooty event, the Sechseläuten is a spectacle you shouldn’t miss if you happen to be in Zurich. Thousands of participants, tens of thousands of spectators, hundreds of horses, dozens of horse-drawn wagons, bands and even a few camels on a parade in the middle of Zurich - makes a change to the standard rush hour. The parade is free, in some areas there are seats for which tickets are required. 15.04 WEDNESDAY 17.04 FRIDAY TONHALLE ORCHESTRA Conductor: Giovanni Antonini, soprano: Anna Prohaska. Works by Luigi Boccherini, W. A. Mozart, Joseph Haydn and Franz Schubert.QTonhalle. Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr. 22.04 WEDNESDAY 24.04 FRIDAY TONHALLE ORCHESTRA & HORNROH MODERN ALPHORN QUARTET Conductor: Kent Nagano, Hornroh Modern Alphorn Quartet. Works by Georg Friedrich Haas and Anton Bruckner.QTonhalle. Concerts start 19:30, 25 - 125Sfr. Zurich Tourism (BM) Do-it-yourself design by Enzo Mari: Sedia One Chair. PD 20.03 FRIDAY 31.05 SUNDAY DO IT YOURSELF DESIGN Making it yourself—be it a chair, a lamp or a table— is definitely a trend! Modifying and personalising furniture and design objects offers an alternative to mass consumption and the unsustainable nature of many products. With the rediscovery of handicraft and the dissemination of designs and instructions on the internet there is a growing interest in making things oneself. The exhibition spotlights the background to the ‘do-it-yourself’ phenomenon and asks about its significance for the design process. A generously dimensioned workshop is temporarily included in the exhibition, allowing visitors to contribute newly built design objects to Do It Yourself Design.QK-6, Museum für Gestaltung - Schaudepot, Pfingstweidstrasse 96, 8Toni-Areal, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket The festival originally celebrated the first day of summer working hours which ended with the toll of the church bells at six o’clock. Literally Sechseläuten means ‘The six o’clock ringing of the bells’. The guilds made the labour laws at the time, and though they have lost their central importance, one says it still makes it easier to do business in Zurich if you are a member. The Sechseläuten schedule for 2015: Sunday April 12, 14:30 Children’s parade (Start at Bürkliplatz - Quaibrücke - Limmatquai - Rudolf-Brun-Brücke - Bahnhofstrasse Bürkliplatz - Fraumünsterstrasse - Stadthausquai) Monday April 13, 15:00 Parade of the Guilds (Bahnhofstrasse - Bürkliplatz - Bahnhofstrasse - Rudolf Brun Brücke - Limmatquai Bellevue) 18:00 Burning of the Böögg on Sechseläutenplatz (Bellevue) afterwards The public grills sausages on the fire April - May 2015 15 Culture & Events CINEMAS Zurich has 16 cinemas, many of them with more than one screen and the large ones with up to 12 screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown in their original language with German and French subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two decades have started to show more and more movies dubbed in German. In the best case they show two versions of the same movie: one in original language and one dubbed. In smaller cinemas you can still watch all movies in the original language - lots of them in English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch) and French subtitles) a D (capital) indicates the movie is spoken in German. Check the daily newspapers or www.zueritipp.ch for programme and screening times. Tickets cost somewhere between 15 and 21Sfr, depending on the movie and the category you choose. On Mondays tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas on all seats. Culture & Events 24.04 FRIDAY 05.07 SUNDAY SWISS PRESS PHOTO 15 Swiss Press Photo 15 presents the best work of Swiss press photographers in 2014, simultaneously recalling the year’s events.QE-2, Landesmuseum, Museumsstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 65 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr. FESTIVALS 16.04 THURSDAY 26.04 SUNDAY JAZZ AND BLUES FESTIVAL Smooth jazz, dixie, swing and blues bands from all over Europe and the US entertain the crowd at the Zurich Jazz and Blues Festival.QSchützenhaus Albisgüetli, Uetlibergstrasse 341, 8Albisgüetli, www.albisguetli.ch. Tickets: www.ticketcorner.ch, +41 900 800 800 (1.19Sfr/ min). OPERA & BALLET ARTHOUSE MOVIE There are six Arthouse cinemas in Zurich, all situated in and around the Niederdorf part of the old town, most of them in old buildings with charm and style. The Arthouse Movie we list is the only one with more than one screen, showing studio and independent movies rather than blockbusters, just as the other Arthouse cinemas.QF-4, Nägelihof 4, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 250 55 10, www.arthouse.ch. RIFFRAFF The RiffRaff is a lovely cinema with four screens just off Langstrasse - arthouse movies in original language, which is not necessarily English, are usually on the menu. If in doubt, ask at the cashier‘s. They also have two bars perfect for a drink before or after the movie. QC-1, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch. TICKETS Most venues sell tickets on the internet which you can print out yourself on any printer or display on your smartphone (see venue list for websites). However, if it’s more convenient for you to actually get tickets (and advice) at a counter, these are your options: • Tourist Service by Zurich Tourism, main hall of the main train station (see p. 10). They sell tickets of the major ticketing companies starticket and ticketino. • SBB travel agency, ticket counter. Located in the main hall of Zurich’s main train station just next to the train ticket counters, the SBB travel agency sells all kinds of event tickets. Just pull a ticket for the event counter and wait your turn. 16 Zurich In Your Pocket 25.04 SATURDAY TITO & TARANTULA Mexican Tito Larriva founded the band Tito & Tarantula in 1992. They appeared in 1996 in the Tarantino movie From Dusk Till Dawn which brought them worldwide fame. Look forward to dirty, Mexican-inspired desert rock with loads of guitar!QMoods. Concert starts 20:30, 40Sfr. 30.04 THURSDAY J. COLE US-rapper J. Cole’s latest work 2014 Forest Hills Drive became the best-selling hip hop album in 2014. He is now on tour with his friends Bas, Cozz and Omen.QKomplex 457. Concert starts 20:00, 55Sfr. 30.04 THURSDAY ORQUESTA BUENA VISTA SOCIAL CLUB FEAT. OMARA PORTUONDO The pride of Cuban music tradition one last time together on stage with the original singer Omara Portuondo. It’s their farewell tour! A firework of son, Cuban jazz and cha cha cha. QKongresshaus. Concert starts 20:00, 60-110Sfr. 17.05 SUNDAY SOPHIE HUNGER She is the rising star in the Swiss singer/songwriter sky: heart-touching songs, melancholic melodies and an authentic voice have brought her a lot of success - which also guarantees a remarkable concert night.QX-tra. Concert starts at 21:00, 50Sfr. Bursting with passion: Lucia di Lammermoor opera, on in April. Suzanne Schwiertz ZURICH OPERA & BALLET The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme on their website. Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by Christian Spuck take place here too.QF-5, Opernhaus, Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. ROCK, POP AND JAZZ CONCERTS For more venues with live music, see our box ‘live music’ on p. 33. 09.04 THURSDAY THE PAINS OF BEING PURE AT HEART The songs of this New York-based indie band are often simple and modest - but obviously written with a big heart. They’re currently on tour with their latest album Days of Abandon.QRote Fabrik. Concert starts 20:30, 25Sfr. zurich.inyourpocket.com 21.05 THURSDAY CHRIS DE BURGH The Irish singer Chris de Burgh has sold more than 45 million records over three decades. Now he is on tour with his latest album The Hands of Man.QKongresshaus. Concert starts 20:00, 90-150Sfr. 21.05 THURSDAY THE BRAND NEW HEAVIES Funk, soul, disco and r&b, deep bass lines, accented horns and lushly textured drum patterns are still the hallmark of the The Brand New Heavies - after more than two decades on stage. On tour with singer Dawn Joseph.QKaufleuten. Concert starts 20:00, 60 - 85Sfr. THEATRE & COMEDY INTERNATIONAL COMEDY CLUB The International Comedy Club brings English-language stand-up comedy to Zurich. Most of the shows take place in the Mascotte club, a mid-sized venue at Bellevue. Tickets around 40/35Sfr at www.ticketcorner.ch. Shows start at 20:00. Qwww.internationalcomedyclub.ch. 17.4 Friday Rob Deering 28.4 Tuesday Alan Davies (takes place at Volkshaus) 15.5 Friday Relax, enjoy and lose track of time above the rooftops of Zurich Entspannen, geniessen, Zeit vergessen über den Dächern von Zürich AQUA-SPA-RESORTS AG Thermalbad & Spa Zürich Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8002 Zürich Tel. 044 205 96 50 www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch Stephen K. Amos facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 17 Unexpected Highend Couples Lads & Lasses On the cheap Local Quick picks Restaurants Eat Drink Do Elisaburg (p. 22) isn't about runof-the-mill Italian cooking. Most of their distinctive dishes have their origins in Sicily – and some truly are culinary revelations. With the low-key backdrop, this just the sort of mix locals love. It's called The International (p. 30) – but this new bar with its impressive range of craft brews and microbrews gives you the opportunity to try dozens of Swiss beers, some from the country's more remote corners and some truly local ones. Browsing through titbits and treasures at the Kanzlei fleamarket (p. 37) is a prototypical Saturday morning for a Zurich local – especially if it’s followed by a large café latte in one of the happening bars around Helvetiaplatz. Zurich is plastered with Turkish takeaways – one of the best is New Point (Langstrasse 206, C-1). Here you’ll get a good kebab, falafel or whatever almost around the clock. Cheap, fast, friendly. For really cheap drinks, go to BQM (Leonhardstrasse 34, F-2), a students’ bar in the main building of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology ETH (just a 5-minute walk from Central). With a beer at 4.20Sfr and cocktails at 9.80Sfr this is definitely one of the cheapest places in town - but closed on weekends! Two of Zurich's major landmarks are free to visit: the mediaeval churches Grossmünster and Fraumünster (p. 34). Both have magnificent stained glass windows by artists such as Chagall, elegant Gothic arches and grim little faces looking down from the masonry. There is a small fee for going up the Grossmünster tower. The one-time arsenal Zeughauskeller (p. 28) is a great place for large beers and generous portions of solid food – like their metre-long the sausages! Or try an eidgenoss (a Swiss soldier): half a litre of beer flambéed with fruit liquor. The Irish Pub Paddy Reilly’s (p. 32) in the city centre might be what you are looking for: all the sports on TV, 12 different beers on tap and party-DJs on the weekends. Or try Safari (p. 31) for some good oldfashioned bar fun with no chichi – well, maybe a giraffe's head or so. Grab a free bike or even a skateboard at one of the stands of Züri rollt (p. 7). Skate or cycle along the lake shore - and don’t forget to make sure someone is watching when you pull some stunts. Or try our cycling tour on p. 13. Manesse (p. 20) is probably one of the best restaurants in town at the moment – but you don't have to arrive in a Rolls to feel comfortable here. Some dishes are highly experimental, others merely exquisitely well done. Go on, treat yourselves! The Kronenhalle is a legend in Zurich, where dark wood and oil paintings set the atmosphere. Enjoy the classics like schnitzel with cucumber salad or roast from the trolley as do the top bankers, authors and editors-in-chief at the other tables (F-4, Rämistrasse 4, tram stop Bellevue). In a historic vaulted cellar and lit with candles, the Weinschenke (Hirschengasse 6, F-3) easily gets the predicate romantic. And their selection of wines might also rouse your passions, for instance the Austrian sweet wines or the local Blauburgunders. The spring weather can turn nasty sometimes – but it's always warm at the thermalbad and spa zurich (p. 54). With the different pools and massages it's a great place to wind down and even better if you have someone special to accompany you. Alice Choo (p. 33) is a mysterious newcomer to Zurich. By day a bar and restaurant with sought-after specialities like kobe beef, by night a club with entertainment, international music acts and some of the best champagne the world has to offer. At the Tonhalle you can enjoy some excellent classical concerts. The programme in April and May includes big symphonic works, chamber music soirées, Mozarts string quartets and visiting orchestras from Gent and London. See p. 14 for more details. Elle'n'belle (p. 28), right in the city's clubbing mile, is loud, cheeky and pretty rock'n'roll. And this newly opened restaurant is also vegan! But it's a far cry from tea-totalers and cautious health food: the menu boasts burgers, fries and ice cream. Vegan is becoming a big thing in Zurich. The Swiss answer to Coca Cola is Rivella, give it a try while you're here! True to Swiss clichés, it's made of milk – honest! It doesn't look or taste anything like milk though and is supposed to be quite healthy. You can get it at most restaurants and shops, the red flavour is the classic one. 18 Zurich In Your Pocket Someone is burning a huge snowman on a bonfire in the middle of Zurich? Sounds scary? Don't worry, it's just one of those local customs. This spring celebration is called Sächsilüüte (April 12 and 13), and it's meant to scare winter away. Read all about it in our box (p. 15). zurich.inyourpocket.com Zur urich i ha ic h s rest estaur taur urant ntss galo nt galo alore re - like like ik Mo Mohre h nko hre hr kopf pf in Nie Nieder d do der dor orf.f.f | PD Zurich has around 1,500 restaurants, bars and takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese and back again. But today many restaurants also cook in a mélange, international style and are not easily categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the places we recommend within any particular category. We have far more reviews than we can print, so check zurich.inyourpocket.com for all of them. The prices in brackets indicate the cheapest and most expensive main courses. For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually considerably cheaper. Note that many restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the evening we recommend you book a table. ASIAN BAN SONG THAI The Ban Song Thai sits in a small alley in the Niederdorf just under the Grossmünster church - and serves classic Thai food made from mostly organic ingredients and without any artificial flavour enhancers. Probably that‘s why the taste of the food here is authentic. On the menu there are soups, salads, fish, as well as rice- and Thai-noodle dishes and curries (even without coconut milk!). The Ban Song Thai has lots of fans in Zurich - that‘s why we recommend you book a table in advance. There is also a lunch buffet facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket (all you can eat, 30Sfr).QF-4, Kirchgasse 6, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 252 33 31, www.bansongthai.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:45, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 18:00 - 23:30, Sun closed. Kitchen open until 22:30. (24 - 45Sfr). JAB NEW FIVESPICE At FiveSpice they serve solid Thai food: the kiaw wan green curry without coconut milk was light and full of flavours, the sate tofu with a thick peanut sauce was earthy, smokey, tasty. The service was quick and friendly, the atmosphere quite chatty. With the heavy wooden furniture this place isn’t a take-away, but it’s not elegant either. Just about right for a simple dinner with friends we would say. QB-4, Zweierstrasse 106, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. +41 44 450 13 85, www.fivespices.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:00, 17:30 - 22:00, Sat & Sun 17:30 - 22:00. SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge E Live music J City centre location S Take away N No credit cards 8 Nearest tram station C-1 Map coordinates B Outside seating April - May 2015 19 Restaurants Restaurants BURGERS IROQUOIS The burgers here are hearty and have plenty of taste - and, mind, we’re not just talking about the one with the chillies. The farmer-style decoration, the bright colours and unpolished wooden floor give the place a cosy feel. And they don’t just do burgers, but salads and club sandwiches as well. It’s also a good place for a drink among friends. Order one of the many cocktails or beers on offer while watching major sports events on the TV and sometimes on the big screen. The Iroquois has a take-away grill station too.QH-7, Seefeldstrasse 120, 8Höschgasse, tel. +41 44 383 70 77, www.iroquois.ch. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Sat & Sun Brunch 09:00-16:00. (16 - 30Sfr). AB THE BITE The Bite is the latest of a handful of burger restaurants that have recently opened in the city - burgers seem to be back on the locals’ hitlist. The Bite convinced us with their Classic burger - it was one of the best we have had in a long time. The beef was fried to perfection, the blend delicious and the cheddar cheese, the shallots and the sauces a great match. The home-made ketchup and cocktail sauces which came with the fries went down well too. We could do without some of the arty chichi - the drinks are served in jars and the burgers come on wooden chopping boards con amore e passione warm meals all day Mühlebachstrasse 2 | CH-8008 Zurich | T +41 44 250 59 30 commercio.ch | arthouse.ch BL AUE ENTE Culinary craftsmanship at Mühle Tiefenbrunnen since 1890 Mühle Tiefenbrunnen | Seefeldstrasse 223 | 8008 Zürich | 044 388 68 40 | blaue-ente.ch 20 Zurich In Your Pocket - but we would always come back for these burgers.QC-2, Brauerstrasse 15, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 44 242 30 00, www.thebite.ch. Open 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 - 22:30, Fri 11:30 - 13:30, 18:00 -24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. (24 - 33Sfr). A FINE DINING BLAUE ENTE At the Blaue Ente they do pay attention to details: the freshly baked loaf of bread and the spread are more than a standard welcome. Happy with the friendly and proficient waiter, we let him choose some of the 14 available häppli (small delights) for our starter. We liked everything, especially the ‘Züriei’, a wonderful creamy and foamy egg served in a glass with truffle and spinach. With the mains, we were more than happy too: the Argentinian roastbeef was a treat, as was the chop of venison. The atmosphere in this former mill at Tiefenbrunnen is very pleasant and genuine - we spent a really nice evening.QSeefeldstrasse 223, 8Wildbachstrasse, tel. +41 44 388 68 40, www.blaue-ente.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18: 00 -24:00. Sun closed. Kitchen open until 22:00. AB LINDENHOFKELLER Slightly hidden on the walk up to the Lindenhofplatz in the old town lies the Lindenhofkeller in the cellar vault of a house built in 1357. The cooking here is creative-conservative, based on French cuisine. The speciality is roast Swiss ‘prime’ rack of veal cooked at low temperature - indeed a remarkably tasty cut of meat. The Lindenhofkeller’s wine list is 27 pages long - don’t hesitate to ask for a recommendation to match your dish and taste. Lovely summer terrace in the courtyard. QE-3, Pfalzgasse 4, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 70 71, www.lindenhofkeller.ch. Open 11:45 - 15:00, 18:15 23:45. Closed Sat & Sun. Kitchen open until 21:30. (43 - 73Sfr). JAB MAISON MANESSE This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable and easy-going setting, where the homely white wooden panelling sets the mood. The menus created by chef Fabian Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental cuisine and other unusual cooking styles (i.e an onsen egg, cooked 60 minutes at exactly 63 C, giving it a special wax-like consistency). In the evening there are two menus on offer - a vegetarian one and one with fish and meat. You decide if you prefer six or seven courses (around 120 - 150Sfr). It’s amazing the tastes they create here. But relax, not everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a steak - except that the one we had here was probably the most tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QB-5, Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel. +41 44 462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00 (straigtforward lunch), 18:00 - 24:00 (reservations from 18:30 - 20:00). Mon evening, Sat noon and Sun closed. AB zurich.inyourpocket.com FRENCH LUMIÈRE At the Lumière, the cuisine and the style is traditional French. The speciality of the house is Entrecôte Café de Paris, a tender cut of beef on a butter based sauce, served with pommes allumettes, slender french fries. We definitely liked it. Besides beef there is coq au vin (chicken) and duck on the menu.The place is small, space is a bit scarce, the service is attentive and the recommended grappa was delicious and unsurprisingly expensive.QE-3, Widdergasse 5, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 56 65, www.restaurant-lumiere.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 11:30 - 23:30, Sun & Mon closed. JA MÈRE CATHERINE Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she also does other French classics like onion soup or snails. Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually home-made, are also standard features. The interior with uneven walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is good for a quiet drink.QF-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:30 24:00. Kitchen open until 14:00 & 17:45 - 22:15. Sat & Sun open throughout. (25 - 45Sfr). JAB They have a snug open-air area: Blau Ente at Tiefenbrunnen. PD ITALIAN COMMERCIO While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night, thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine art. With a cinema ticket from Arthouse cinemas you get a price reduction of 10%.QG-5, Mühlebachstrasse 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. +41 44 250 59 30, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (18 - 48Sfr). JAB Niederdorfstrasse 31 · 8001 Zürich www.mohrenkopf.info Continuing a tradition since 1981 facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 21 Restaurants Restaurants CHEESE RESTAURANTS istockphoto.com The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette originally come from the French-speaking areas of Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese and white wine bubbling over a small burner which you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. FRIBOURGER FONDUESTÜBLI The canton of Fribourg prides itself on making some of the best fondues, and here you can choose between two different Fribourger cheese blends. Have a glass of white wine with your meal, but be careful not to lose the piece of bread while dipping it in the melted cheese. QC-3, Rotwandstrasse 38, 8Staufffacher, tel. +41 44 241 90 76, www.fribourger-fondue-stuebli.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00. Sat & Sun open 17:30 24:00. Kitchen open until 22:00. (28Sfr). A LE DÉZALEY For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is air-dried meat or instead of fondue try one of the regional sausages.QF-4, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. Kitchen open until 23:00. (22 - 50Sfr). JAB NEW ELISABURG In former working-class Wiedikon, you can still almost smell the oily overalls of the industrial workers who used to have a beer here. Some of them would have been delighted if they been served today’s profumi siciliani - it would have tasted like home to them. Today, the service and atmosphere have an improvised feel, but the kitchen staff know their stuff. Their new take on the somewhat tired antipasti theme, the stunning carciofo alla giudia (deep-fried artichoke), the pasta with porcini mushrooms or the coffee - everything was of an absolutely convincing quality. We’ll be coming again.QB-3, Elisabethenstrasse 3, 8Wiedikon, Bahnhof, tel. +41 77 455 12 90, www.elisaburg.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 19:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. (23 - 42Sfr). A MOLINO At Molino they serve what you might call the canon of Italian food, in a classic atmosphere: bruschette or crostini as starters, pasta, pizze in traditional or more extraordinary varieties and mains like saltimbocca (veal cutlet with ham and sage). We have always really liked their pizze, especially the D.O.C. ones with authentic Italian produce. Molino won’t let you down if good Italian food is what you’re after. (Sister restaurants Molino at Stauffacher 31 (C-3) and Frascati at Bellerivestrasse 2 (F-6).QF-4, Limmatquai 16, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 261 01 17, www.molino.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 24:00. May - Oct open daily 09:00 - 24:00. JAB VAPIANO At Vapiano, the food is prepared as you watch. You order right from the chefs at the open kitchen, and once your freshly made pasta, salad or antipasto (all prepared on site) is ready, you take it straight to your seat. If you order a pizza, you’ll get a pager which will buzz for your attention when it comes out of the oven. All your orders are conveniently charged to a plastic card, you pay when you leave. The Vapiano concept is a success in 28 countries, and we do like the relaxed atmosphere and the fresh food à la minute. In Zurich you’ll find a second Vapiano at Sihlcity shopping centre (Kalanderplatz 9).QF-4, Rämistrasse 8, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 252 0062, www.vapiano.com. Open 11:00 23:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Kitchen open all day, closes 30 minutes earlier. JA JAPANESE FUJIYA OF JAPAN The Fujiya of Japan is all about teppanyaki cuisine: the chef prepares your food directly at your table on a teppan - a hot iron plate. He fries fish, prawns, scallops, steaks and vegetables and serves it with different sauces. The Fujiya offers a variety of menus with 5 to 9 courses (69 - 150Sfr): from salads and soups through to sashimi and sushi and deserts. A remarkable though quite pricey experience.QD5, Tessinerplatz 5, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. +41 44 208 15 55, www.ascot.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (39 - 78Sfr). JAB ROSSO Some claim this restaurant makes the best pizzas in town. And well, they really are outstanding - very thin and with only a little topping - the real Italian style from the south. The rest of the menu can also keep up with the pizzas - try the veal roast for example. Service is probably not the most proactive and fast, but if you bring some patience, you definitely can spend a remarkable evening in this old industry hall next to the Hardbrücke railway station. Rosso is always very busy try to get a reservation by phone. If not you can still test your luck - or your patience - waiting for a table at the bar.QK-7, Geroldstrasse 31, 8Escher-Wyss Platz, tel. +41 43 818 22 54, www.restaurant-rosso.ch. Open 11:30 - 00:30, Sat & Sun 17:00 - 00:30. AB Everything says Japan here: Fujiya of Japan. PD YOOJI’S BAHNHOFSTRASSE No matter if you prefer your sushi as a nice dinner at a table, a quick eat at the bar or to take away: the four Yooji’s are well known in Zurich for good Japanese food. The one on Bahnhofstrasse features two stories and works as a self-service restaurant. Grab your sushi from the display cabinet and take a seat (or take it out) or sit at the bar and pick some more daring compositions from the conveyor belt. The following Yooji’s feature table service: Bellevue (St. Urbangasse 8), Langstrasse district (Josefstrasse 112), Seefeld (Seefeldstrasse 115).QE-2, Bahnhofstrasse 102, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 12 25, www.yoojis.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Kitchen closes 22:00. JAS Open daily rved Warm meals se all day Fine Italian Dining in the heart of Zurich www.molino.ch Pizzeria Molino Limmatquai Limmatquai 16 . T +41 44 261 01 17 Mon-Sun 8.00–24.00 Bel Be ellev ev e vue ue · Rä Räm äm ä mist mist istr. sttr. r. 8 / Sih hlci city t · Kala aland nderpl nde rplatz rp rpl atz Te T el.: 04 44 252 00 0 62 2 22 Zurich In Your Pocket www.vapiano.ch www ww Pizzeria Molino Stauffacher Stauffacherstr. 31 . T +41 44 240 20 40 Mon-Sat 7.00–24.00 . Sun 9.00–24.00 Tel : 044 Tel. 044 201 201 15 25 zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket Ristorante Frascati Zurigo Bellerivestrasse 2 . T +41 43 443 06 06 Mon-Sat 9.00–24.00 . Sun 10.00–24.00 e id es ak g l e n iqu tti Un se April - May 2015 23 Restaurants YOOJI’S SUSHI DELI Sushi, Sashimi, Noodle Soups & Salads BAHNHOFSTRASSE 102 IM HAUPTBAHNHOF AM BELLEVUE JOSEFSTRASSE 112 SEEFELDSTRASSE 115 yoojis.com SWISS CUISINE What the Swiss like to eat at home and when out is heavily influenced by their neighbours’ cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say: käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth (chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying with a range of sauces and sides. 24 Zurich In Your Pocket Restaurants LAKESIDE RESTAURANTS QUAI 61 Part of the Quai 61 is actually built on the water, meaning you have a truly perfect view of the lake and the city here. Try to get a table by the huge windows (some of them can be opened in summer). The waiters are dressed like seamen, probably that’s why we feel like we’ve just set off on a cruise. The menu is small and features grilled meat from the beachwood grill (you can smell and taste it) some fish options and pasta. No daring compositions, all rather simple but tasty, we must admit. Don’t forget to book a table. In good weather they have an outdoor area with a smaller menu and no reservations (open 14:30 - 24:00). On the upper floor there is a bar and a sun deck.QD-6, Mythenquai 61, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. +41 44 405 61 61, www.quai61.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Last orders 13:45 & 21:30. AB MEDITERRANEAN BAR BASSO We like the style at the Basso - it’s modern and pure, without being super-cooled. The Italian-Alpine menu is also definitely worth a mention, offering e.g. tasty tartar, excellent cheese lasagne, served not in layers but open, so to speak, and some great cuts of meat too. They also have a wood-fire oven for genuine pizze. The service is attentive and fresh, and on a sunny day, their colourful outdoor tables just overlooking the Sihl canal are a lovely place to enjoy a good cup of coffee.QD-3, Sihlstrasse 59, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 43 497 25 28, www.barbasso.ch. Open 08:00 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. JAB geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu as well.QF-4, Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. +41 44 251 65 04, www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat 17:30 - 23:00, Sun closed. Kitchen open until 22:00. (28 - 45Sfr). JAB MEXICAN NEW CANTINA LA LUPE Authentic Mexican food like hearty tacos full of flavour, quesadillas or tortas is what they have on offer at the casual La Lupe. The freshly made sauces you can add to your dish are a treat, but carramba!, they can be really spicy! The fish in the ceviche, a cocktail of fish, chilli, coriander and lime juice, could have been a little more tender but otherwise we were very satisfied. We almost couldn’t stop ordering more rounds of tacos. The margaritas were pretty strong and not too sweet - just the way we like them.QM-7, Luisenstrasse 43, 8Limmatplatz, tel. +41 44 271 20 22, www.cantinalalupe.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. AB ORIENTAL LE CÈDRE - BELLEVUE This is the city branch of the original Le Cèdre (Badenerstrasse 78, +41 44 241 42 72), which opened more than 15 years ago as one of the first Lebanese restaurants All hands on deck - Quai 61 makes the most of its lakeside location. PD in town. And we can confirm that it serves the same excellent cuisine that host Maurice Houraibi stands for. On offer are more than 100 different types of mezze (cold and warm starters) with all kind of mystic tastes unfamiliar to Western tongues. Many of the mezzes are vegetarian. Take a selection of them as a starter or big platter as a main course. There are also lamb, veal, poultry and fish dishes. Service tends to be a little slow.QF-4, Schifflände 5, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 252 83 70, www.libanesisch.ch. Open 11:00 00:30. (19 - 65Sfr). JAB LES HALLES This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food from around the Mediterranean with a particularly French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels with French fries) are what a lot of people come here for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back.QL-6, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. +41 44 273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun closed. Kitchen open until 13:45/21:45, snacks & tapas througout. (20 - 35Sfr). AB ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like zurich.inyourpocket.com Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 25 Restaurants Restaurants DECODING THE MENU SPANISH General terms Käse paniert Pfeffer Rahm Salz Senf cheese breaded pepper cream salt mustard Fleisch Bratwurst Hackbraten Kalb Lamm Poulet, Hühnchen Rind Schnitzel Schwein Ghackets Geschnetzeltes Meat sausage meatloaf veal (or calf ) lamb chicken beef cutlet, often breaded pork mince meat meat in bite-size pieces MADRID Not surprisingly given it’s name, the Madrid serves exclusively Spanish cuisine. The menu is long with plenty of grilled fish and meat, the classic paella (minimum 2 pers.) and some more unusual dishes, which remain clearly committed to the Spanish origins. The cooking is of high quality, service professional. The slightly dated interior has a sprinkling of Iberian kitsch, while the outside tables are in the cobbled streets along the two sides of this corner house. QF-3, Brunngasse 12, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 13 33, www.restaurant-madrid.ch. Open 11:30 24:00. Kitchen closes 23:00. (32 - 54Sfr). JAB Fisch Egli Forelle Felchen Fish European perch trout common whitefish Beilagen Aubergine Bratkartoffeln Brötchen Kartoffeln Nudeln Pilze Pommes Frites Spargel Spätzli Speck Zwiebeln Side dishes aubergine, egg plant roast potatoes bread roll potatoes pasta mushrooms french fries, potato chips asparagus egg noodles bacon onion Dessert Apfelstrudel Berliner (Schokoladen) Kuchen Tiramisu Desserts apple pie doughnut (chocolate) cake Italian cream dessert STEAK HOUSES BOHEMIA Bohemia’s waiters wear ties - and they’re not the only thing with style around here. The tiled floor and the crystal chandeliers give the Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere, drawing both business people and the city’s in-crowd. They mainly serve steaks grilled to your liking on the woodfire grill. Try their home-made sauces - we loved the just slightly sweet ketchup. The bar area at the front can be busy, so if you prefer a quieter atmosphere, try to get a table in the room at the back.QH-5, Klosbachstrasse 2, 8Kreuzplatz, tel. +41 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.ch. Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu & Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (26 - 69Sfr). AB GEORGE BAR & GRILL Located on the top floor of the same building that hosts the Zurich casino, the all new and kind of swanky George boasts a great terrace. On both sides of the building one can sit outdoors and enjoy the view over the city centre. But George is an allrounder: he offers a long wooden bar, a cosy library-style lounge and plenty of tables for lunch and dinner. Foodwise he mainly specialises in grilled meat, steaks and similar and some seafood. Very solid indeed. A piano player sees to it that you get into a relaxed mood when you visit George.QD-3, Sihlstrasse 50, 8Stauffacher, tel. +41 44 444 50 60, www.george-grill.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:30 - 02:00, closed Sun. (35 - 82Sfr). JAB centrally located, hearty traditional swiss cuisine, affordable prices. Trams from all directions in immediate vicinity - on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz. open daily for reservations 26 Zurich In Your Pocket 11:30 to 23:00 +41 [0] 44 220 15 15 www.zeughauskeller.ch zurich.inyourpocket.com The luxuriant understatement of the Bohemia - with daring extras. NEW RUBINA The unpretentious interior of the Rubina made us feel welcome right from the start. The service was very personal. And we were also happy with the food we ordered: the pickled salmon we had as a starter was delicious, the beef filet was tender as was the locally sourced venison. We finished off with a crema catalana and a local Fellenberger Zwetschgen spirit. Perfect for a well-mannered, calm evening, and just barely outside the centre.QG-1, Universitätsstrasse 56, 8Haldenbach, tel. +41 44 350 30 15, www.restaurant-rubina.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00, Sun & Mon closed. (28 - 40Sfr). A PD SWISS As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see Swiss cuisine), we list some traditional restaurants here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette, see the box on p. 22. We list the traditional Zurich beer halls in a seperate category overleaf. They serve generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either. AU-GUST (WIDDER HOTEL) Black and white tiling, industrial style lamps and an open kitchen: the all new Au-Gust definitely looks stylish. But it’s not only looks - the food is a treat too. They major on meat, not on steaks like everyone else but on cold cuts, sausages, terrines, carpaccios and innards. Our fleischkäse (Swiss style meat loaf ) was bursting with flavour. We’re not usually passionate about innards, but the tripe Zurich style with its spicy sauce changed our minds on this one. They also serve platters, so you can try many of the different edibles they have on offer. No reservations - in case there is no space, you can simply wait in the inhouse Widder bar until they call you.QE-3, Rennweg 1, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 28 28, www.au-gust.ch. Open 11:30 - 22:15 (last orders), breakfast 06:30 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 11:00. JA MOHRENKOPF This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns, an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name.QF-3, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-BrunBrücke, tel. +41 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 18:00. Kitchen open non-stop until 22:00. (19 - 36Sfr). JA facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket Kreuzplatz | 8032 Zürich bohemia.ch | T: +41 (0) 44 383 70 60 April - May 2015 27 Restaurants Cafés VEGETARIAN NEW ELLE’N’BELLE Elvis is alive! And vegan has gone rock’n’roll! The menu here starts with the desserts, such as the blood-orange mousse with mini marshmallows. One of our mains - a substantial burger with wasabi sauce and fries - also had US origins, but they do risotto or excellent Turkishinspired lentil balls too. In the same building as the large X-TRA club, this place is young, buzzing and daring. The King would have loved it.QM-7, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, www.ellenbelle.ch. Open 11:00 23:00, closed Sun. (13 - 29Sfr). JA TIBITS The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of tibits, where you choose from around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, believe us. Situated in the Seefeld district, tibits is very popular with business people and the hipper residents of the area. It’s all available to take away too. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, +41 44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). QG-5, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. Food served until 30 min before closing. (buffet, 4.20Sfr (take away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). JABS Zurich is rich. In vitamins. V EG E TA RI A N RE S TAU R A N T B A R TA K E AWAY C AT E RIN G S E E F E L D S T R . 2 | T IB I T S AT T H E N Z Z B I S T R O, FA L K E N S T R . 12 N E X T T O T H E O P E R A H O U S E , Z U R I C H | W W W .T I B I T S . C H W W W .T I B I T S . C O . U K | 28 Zurich In Your Pocket Insta VELTLINERKELLER The Veltlinerkeller specialises in traditional Swiss and French cuisine - including a couple of extras originating in the Veltlin region in the Italian Alps. Be it chateaubriand, zürcher geschnetzeltes (veal in bite-size pieces) or grilled common sole - the chef definitely knows his trade. Happily the latest trends in gastronomy haven’t made it to the Veltlinerkeller - so don’t expect anything fancy, but good traditional food in a homely atmosphere, set by the walls lined with Swiss stone pine.QE-4, Schlüsselgasse 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 225 40 40, www.veltlinerkeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, closed Sat & Sun. Kitchen open 11:30 - 13:45, 18:30 - 21:45. (43 - 63Sfr). JA Tibits is a favourite among urban vegetarians. PD BEER HALLS RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town: a place where workers, students, and business men alike go for the big portions, good prices and traditional down-toearth food - and lots of beer of course. The waiters have a rough charm, but usually serve the desired dishes quickly: schweinsleberli (pork liver), bratwurst, kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ball-shaped noodles). If in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon bleu that the Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the waitress will poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of meat the size of an elephant’s ear.QF-2, Niederdorfstrasse 76, 8Central, tel. +41 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelder.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00. Kitchen open until 23:15. (12 - 32Sfr). JNB ZEUGHAUSKELLER The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is one of Zurich’s biggest beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval arsenal it serves good solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat, sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get to know people, as you share the big tables with other guests. Old military devices standing around are there to remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, you might end up getting conscripted.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 220 15 15, www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00. Kitchen open until 22:00. (19 - 40Sfr). JAB zurich.inyourpocket.com Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many double as bars in the evening rather than closing. NEW CUPCAKE AFFAIR This affair is obviously obsessive: they do nothing but cupcakes here. Oh, but what they can do with a cupcake! How about raspberry and white chocolate? Or chai spices with caramel and fleur de sel? The little café with white tables, wooden floor and dashes of pink has just a touch of girliness to it. But the excellent coffee and the range of drinks is totally grown-up. They offer a gluten-free cupcake and every Tuesday a vegan one.QF-3, Spitalgasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 76 461 04 64, www.cupcake-affair.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. JAB FELIX AM BELLEVUE Felix is the top dog among the coffee places around Bellevue. The spacious interior opulently decorated with flowers, columns and mirrors gives you the impression this grand café has been here for decades. Try their homemade ice cream or the chocolade (chocolate milk) Felix is best known for. They serve all kinds of sweets as well as breakfasts from fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and champagne. Elderly ladies love this pricey café for their afternoon chat just as much as young, hip girls dropping in for a break from shopping. In the evening Felix doubles as a bar, often with DJ on the weekends.QF-4, Bellevueplatz 5, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 251 80 60, www.felixambellevue.ch. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Mon & Tue 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. JABK NEW MILCHBAR Coffee afficionados now have a home just off Paradeplatz. You can choose from a dazzling number of different brewing techniques, some of which we honestly hadn’t heard of before. There is filter coffee, syphon, V60, Aeropress, boiler and more. If none of this rings a bell with you, relax: they have a very nice espresso too. And it’s all laid-back, though stylish. They also have many fresh juices and smoothies (usually you can try some for free) and home-made pastries. They do lunches and in the evening it doubles as a bar and restaurant (first floor).QE-4, Kappelergasse 16, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 211 90 12, www.milchbar.ch. Open 05:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JAB ODEON A coffee house of international fame on Bellevue: Lenin, James Joyce and Albert Einstein are all said to have been regulars in the more than hundred years of Odeon history. Even though this gran café has been scaled down to half its initial size, it’s still more than worth a visit: the Art Nouveau architecture has been preserved and the facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket high room with its chandeliers still breaths grandeur. Daily menus, outside seating and a kitchen that works until one hour before (the late) closing time keep the Odeon popular with all kinds of people.QF-4, Limmatquai 2, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 251 16 50, www.odeon.ch. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Mon 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. Food served until one hour before closing time. JNB Cafés double as bars after dark - like the Odeon here. PD SPRÜNGLI Sprüngli has been around for 170 years and for locals it’s synonymous with excellent confectionery and chocolate. Their café is the place to stop for a coffee when shopping on Bahnhofstrasse. Try to get a window seat on the first floor overlooking Paradeplatz, order a coffee and choose something sweet from the display cabinet.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 21, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 224 46 16, www.spruengli.ch. Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 18:00, Sun 09:30 - 17:30. JAB BREAKFAST Sunday breakfast is an institution in many Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape of a braid, and is served with butter, jams, honey, cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge variety of breads - rye bread, maize bread or potato-and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli version. Many Swiss don’t consider breakfast complete without one of the many takes on the müesli-theme. Here come our favourite breakfast places: FELIX AM BELLEVUE, breakfasts served every day from fast and simple to luxurious with salmon and champagne (see on the left). HAUS HILTL, ample vegetarian breakast buffet, daily until 10:30, Sat until 11:30. On Sundays brunch buffet 09:30 - 14:30, all you can eat 57Sfr. (E-3, Sihlstrasse 28, +41 44 227 70 00). April - May 2015 29 Nightlife Nightlife SAFARI BAR A simple, cool bar frequented by locals, just off the main pedestrian street in Niederdorf. Come here for a chat with your friends at one of the tables - or grab a seat at the long bar where it is easy to get talking to others. In the background there is usually rock music - and if you have a drink in mind which is not on the menu - just ask for it. If they have the ingredients, they will be happy to prepare it for you.QF-3, Zähringerstrasse 29, 8Central, tel. +41 44 262 12 40, www.safaribar.ch. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Fri & Sat 12:00 - 02:30, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. Razzia celebrates the soft tones of the early 20th century. PD CLASSY BARS Fullllyy foc ocuss oc uss sseedd on yyo ssed you o r cock ou cktaill - th thee barm rm men en at Dan D te can coompe mp te witth th the he bes bestt in Zuri ur ch ch. | PD Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The main nightlife areas are Niederdorf (F-2/3) in the old town, the streets around Langstrasse (C-1/2) and Zurich West (L-6/7). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens of bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. A night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. If you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy, as not all venues take credit cards. If you prefer it on the quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings. CASUAL BARS DANTE Dante’s chequered tiled floor, the black bar and the back wall covered with brass make for a cool yet quite low-key atmosphere. The crowd is young and a little alternative though still on the trendy side. Remarkable at Dante is the gin library: more than 80 different brands are on offer, as well as many cocktails. Try a Basil Bash, a little sweet, a little sour, and yes, a little basil. Unexpectedly fresh and tasty. Second bar and smokers’ lounge in the basement. QC-2, Zwinglistrasse 22, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 43 317 19 18, www.dante-zurich.ch. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 18:00 - 02:00, Mon & Sun closed. AX LE PHILOSOPHE You don’t have to be a philosopher to find this bar enjoyable - if you love cocktails that will do. Come here for a chat with friends - or to get in contact with strangers. The tiny size of 30 Zurich In Your Pocket Le Philosophe makes it easy to get in touch with others. If you lack a chat topic the barkeeper‘s music taste might be something to talk about. Or order some tartar buns from the neighbouring sister restaurant Mère Catherine. QF-4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. A NEW THE INTERNATIONAL This new bar is dedicated to craft beers from small breweries. They have around 50 different ones from all around Switzerland on offer, and another 50 from around the world, many from Belgium, the US and Canada. Around 10 are on tap. The huge board on the wall behind the bar lists them grouped by types, like Indian pale ales, stouts, amber etc. to help you choose. Despite the many Swiss beers, lots of expats are regulars here. The bar is a bit too sterile for our taste, more like a bistro than a beer joint, but hopefully that will change as the bar ages.QM-7, Luisenstrasse 7, 8Röntgenstrasse, tel. +41 79 345 78 72, www.theinternational.ch. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun closed. A SYMBOL KEY A Credit cards accepted N No credit cards E Concerts X Smoker lounge K Restaurant zurich.inyourpocket.com MÖVENPICK WEIN BAR The bare facts of this venue are simple: shelves full of wine bottles, high tables and stools and around 250 wines from Switzerland and all around the world. Many of the wines are sold by the glass (including some rarities!), for bottles you pay the indicated take-away prices plus 15Sfr corkage. Apart from snacks to accompany your wine there are a few main dishes including their divine tartar. The only thing that disturbs the calm atmosphere here are the screens showing advertisements for Mövenpick products.QE-4, Nüschelerstrasse 1, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 211 91 39, www.wein-bar.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:30 23:00. Closed Sun. AK RAZZIA This was once Zurich’s first cinema, now the Razzia houses a stylish bar (as well as a restaurant). The interior architects have done a fine job: everything from the beige bar stools, to the pattern of the wall paper to the pulley-mounted wall lamps give the bar a slightly aristocratic, 1920s touch. It’s a place for wine lovers, with many dozens of wines from around the world on offer. But they also have all the latest cocktails and more available. It seems to be the new favourite hangout of the chic, well-heeled Seefeld residents.QG-6, Seefeldstrasse 82, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 44 296 70 70, www.razzia-zuerich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri & Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun closed. A ALTERNATIVE BARS HAFENKNEIPE Though Zurich doesn’t have a port, sitting on the seats made of wooden crates in the Hafenkneipe (‘harbour pub’) sipping a beer or a straight whiskey makes you feel like your ship to the brave new world will be leaving shortly. The world map behind the bar shows you where you could end up and the young, quite alternative crowd will be happy to drink a farewell shot with you anytime. Occasionally concerts on Mondays.QD-2, Militärstrasse 12, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 43 322 02 82, www.hafenkneipe. info. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Wed & Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. E facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket CASINO PD SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH Zurich is the city of money, finance and banks - and it also has its own casino. The escalator takes you from the entrance to the first floor, where the world of glittery lights and imagined fortunes takes you in. More than 350 slot machines and the table games roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em poker on two floors make this casino the largest in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set in at 2 Sfr - with practically no upper limit. For your physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access to this gambling paradise you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance fee is 10 CHF after 19:00.QD-3, Gessnerallee 3-5, 8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 43 330 30 30, www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 04:00, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 05:00. Table games start at 14:00. April - May 2015 31 Nightlife YOUR PARTY PORTAL zuerich.usgang.ch is a website where you can check out what’s on in town. A simple click on a certain date in the calendar shows you all the parties and events that are on that day. Name of the party, music style played and location - it’s all there. And don’t forget to go back to the site the day after partying to see if one of their photographers caught you in action. ADULT ENTERTAINMENT If you are looking for sins of the flesh, and then probably you’re male, Zurich offers what you can expect of a city of its size. In Switzerland prostitution is legal, so in Zurich you can find everything from strip bars to brothels. Street prostitution is allowed only in certain areas - for example at Häringstrasse in Niederdorf and in Altstetten in the so-called sex boxes (Depotweg, access by car only). At infamous Sihlquai, street prostitution is now prohibited. Broadly speaking you have two options: most of the strip clubs - which are called nightclubs or cabarets - are located in the Niederdorf part of the old town or around Langstrasse west of the main train station. What you can expect there are expensive drinks (i.e. 20Sfr for a beer) and shows with half-naked ladies dancing on a pole until they are entirely naked. In 2013 local media reported rip-offs in the strip-bar Chilli’s, the victims even claiming to have been dazed and then made to sign huge credit card bills. The owner denies the reports, the prosecutor is still investigating. Stay alert. Nightlife DANCE BARS TALACKER The Talacker is incredibly popular with the city centre’s hip crowd. They kept the shabby style of the old café it once was and mixed it with wall paper decorated with huge dogs - just too cool to be true. Have an Asian-style lunch (soups, curries, 11:45 - 15:00), or simply mingle with Zurich’s twenty- and thirty-somethings having fun to the DJ’s records. Usually it is too crowded to dance, but don’t hesitate to give it a go, if you find half a square metre to do so.QD-4, Talacker 41, 8Sihlporte, tel. +41 44 211 20 50, www.talackerbar.ch. Open 11:45 - 24:00, Thu & Fri 11:45 - 03:00, Sat 16:00 - 03:00, closed Sun. AK HAIFISCH The ‘shark’ comes with modern red leather sofas, lots of mirrors, a grand piano and live music.QF-3, Mühlegasse 3, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 251 41 10, www.haifischbar.ch. Open 17:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00. A 32 Zurich In Your Pocket KANZLEI The Kanzlei is one of the dinosaurs of the city’s clubs. Located in a former gym hall at Helvetiaplatz, its dance floor has been a magnet for a young party crowd for many years - and it actually still is. From Thu to Sat the DJs spin everything from dancehall to house and party tunes check their website for details.QC-3, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 44 291 63 11, www.kanzlei.ch. Open Thu - Sat 23:00 - 04:00. PUBS JAMES JOYCE The James Joyce is a classy Irish pub with furnishings which came from the Jury’s hotel in Dublin and an Art Nouveau bar built in the 19th century. The crowd here is quite uptown and business-like. The beer list features 10 beers including Murphy’s Irish Stout. Their choice of wines is also surprisingly large: 20 served by the glass and more than 300 different bottles in the cellar. On the menu there is fish ‘n’ chips, homemade hamburgers, tartar and club sandwiches. Do we have to mention that they have an excellent choice of single malt whiskeys as well?QD-3, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 221 18 28, www.jamesjoyce.ch. Open 11:00 - 00:30, Sat 11:30 18:00, Sun closed. AK Brothels, sex and sauna clubs are generally situated in the suburbs or just outside the city. In the city you will find such establishments around Häringstrasse in Niederdorf and around Dienerstrasse in the Langstrasse district. As in other places, many prostitutes work because they have few other income options or, even worse, because they are forced to. Street prostitutes are particularly likely to be victims of human trafficking. In 2010, several Zurich pimps received prison sentences for extreme violence against their prostitutes. HIVE The Hive has set the pace of Zurich West’s nightlife for many years now and still does for house, techno and indie dance - which they play on different floors. The crowd from students to thirty somethings (usually) knows how to party.QK-7, Geroldstrasse 5, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. +41 44 271 12 10, www.hiveclub. ch. Open Thu - Sat 23:00 - late, afterhours on Sun. CLUBS The stately elegance of the rainy isles: it’s always cosy at James PD Joyce. PADDY REILLY’S A real Irish pub in the middle of Zurich featuring 12 different draught ciders and beers (from Irish stout to Swiss lager), burgers, chips and salads - and sports of course. All the majors events from rugby to football and Formula 1 are shown on a big screen and the many flat- screen TVs. Fridays and Saturdays a DJ tries to get all the expats and travellers dancing on the red carpet - who usually don’t need telling twice.QD-3, Talstrasse 82, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. +41 43 497 39 66, www.paddys.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. AKX zurich.inyourpocket.com The Mascotte club as we know it: packed and rocking. PD NEW ALICE CHOO Alice Choo ist the latest hotspot for Zurich’s rich and beautiful. International electronica DJs spin their music from Thursday to Saturday and bring the party to the two subterranean dancefloors. On the groundfloor, the Alice is an restaurant and bar open all week serving Asian cuisine. Exclusive designer furniture makes for an extravagant atmosphere.QM-6, Limmatstrasse 275, 8Dammweg, tel. +41 44 448 11 11, www.alice-choo.ch. Club open Fri 23:30 - late, Sat 23:00 - late. Restaurant & Bar open 11:30 14:00, 18:30 - 00:30, Thu & Fri 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30 - 01:00, Sat 18:30 - 01.00. Sun & Mon closed. (25 - 295Sfr). A DIE ZUKUNFT ‘The Future’ is a small club in a Langstrasse district basement, and is Zurich’s premier space for freaky electro, house and crossover party styles. The entrance is hidden in a passage between two buildings next to the Bar 3000. Getting past the doormen is sometimes difficult, though the policy is not obvious: you just have to fit to the crowd already inside. Once you are in, you will find revellers who don’t tire of partying until the break of dawn.QC-2, Dienerstrasse 33, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 535 60 13, www.zukunft. cl. Open Thu 23:00 - late, Fri & Sat 24:00 - late. Bar 3000 open Tue - Fri 18:00 - late, Sat 20:00. Wed often concerts. Admission around 20Sfr, Thu free. X GONZO This small but very tight rock and pop club (strictly no electro music) really is worth queuing for. You head down some stairs just next to the kebap shop and arrive in a cellar where a dance floor, a bar and a constantly overcrowded smoker’s room await you for some serious rock ‘n roll. Gentlemen, start your engines!QC-1, Langstrasse 135, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.gonzoclub.ch. Open Wed - Sat 23:00 - late. Admission around 20Sfr, Wed & Thu free until midnight. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket MASCOTTE In this club you can feel the history: built around 1900 as a variété it has been a music and culture club ever since. Sammy Davis Junior and Louis Armstrong played here in the time of swing and big bands. Nowadays bands like Arcade Fire, The XX, and MGMT played their first ever Switzerland shows here. But it’s a very popular party place too. International DJs (Martin Solveig, Jazzy Jeff ) and local heroes spin their tunes for all kinds of people: twens mix with thirty-somethings dressed from chic to indie. On Fridays the DJ plays all styles, on Saturdays the music is either house, disco, hiphop, electronic or Latin. Check their website!QF-5, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 260 15 80, www.mascotte.ch. Open 22:00/23:00 - late, Sun & Tue closed. Admission: Mon & Wed free, Thu & Fri 15Sfr, Sat 25Sfr. AEX LIVE MUSIC Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell you what you can usually expect. MOODS With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and world music. Big international names as well as many Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QK-6, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. +41 44 276 80 00, www.moods.ch. ROTE FABRIK This centre of alternative culture funded by the city has about 100 concerts a year on their variously sized stages. Some bands are well established, others known by real insiders only. On Tuesdays often concerts in the Ziegel oh Lac restaurant.QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, tel. +41 44 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik.ch. April - May 2015 33 Sightseeing Sightseeing Since the Reformation the church has a barren feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a museum on the Reformation are also accessible.QF-4, Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus. Open 10:00 - 18:00. LAKE ZURICH LINDENHOF This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s centre used to be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the back of the square.QE-3, 8Rathaus. PD Z rich Zur chh ha hass a hi histo sto storic toric r ol oldd town riich wit ithh medi mediaev edi diaeval all sig sights ht an hts a d spir spi pir i es. | Zur urrich urich ch To T uri u sm m (GB (GB)) (G Zurich’s largely intact mediaeval town on the one hand and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries showing international art. Admission to many places is free, if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are usually closed on Mondays. MAIN SIGHTS If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot today, while the central police station is another unlikely lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. FRAUMÜNSTER Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means women’s 34 Zurich In Your Pocket abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came on harder times in the 16th century. The little archway on the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof ) was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else a fine was due. No visiting during Sunday services.QE-4, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus. Open 10:00 - 18:00. GIACOMETTI MURALS In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, Augusto Giacometti’s magnificent murals (1923 - 1925) adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. Opening hours are quite short.QE-3, Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open 09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00. Admission free, ID required. GROSSMÜNSTER The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (4/2Sfr admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00). According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands, taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from his horse. zurich.inyourpocket.com Grossmünsterplatz surrounds the double-towered landmark Zurich Tourism (GB) cathedral. UETLIBERG The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around 450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a day pass for Zurich (buy a 1 - 2 additional zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and staying on the path, especially in winter. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights and a walk along the shores is a must if you’re in Zurich, whatever the season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few hundred metres a park with trees and a lawn fills the expanse between the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids. Continuing you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung, and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese, a large field where many cultural events take place. If you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik, red factory, marked by the red brick factory chimney. LAKE ZURICH CRUISES (LAKE ZURICH NAVIGATION COMPANY ZSG) The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships on Lake Zurich and the river Limmat. If you just want ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns, the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and BürkliplatzZürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket covering zone 110. If that’s not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip. There are different cruises all year round. They all start from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example starts every 30 minutes between 09:10 and 19:40, the 4-hour one every hour. Tickets and timetables are available at the port. QE-5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. +41 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch. Tickets for roundtrips 8.60-33.60Sfr, children half the price, discount with Zurich public transport day cards. April - May 2015 35 Sightseeing MORE FOR LESS WITH THE ZÜRICHCARD You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the ZürichCARD can help you make the most of it. For a busy day or two in Zurich, you can’t really go wrong with the ZürichCARD. It gives you free entry to a number of great museums like the Kunsthaus, the National Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10% discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng cutlery or Vollenweider Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best clubs and to the casino (p. 31) and many restaurants will give you dessert on the house with the card or some other extra, if you have a main course first. The ZürichCARD also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses, trains and boats within the city and includes the train trip from and to the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe ZürichCARD costs 24/16Sfr for 24hr and 48/32Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB counters at the airport, train stations, at the tourist information at the main station or at all VBZ public transport sales points and from all ticket machines in town (stamp it before you set off!). Check their website www.zuerichcard.com for the full range of discounts and other details.The ZürichCARD is issued by Zurich Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket. Sightseeing MUSEUMS & ART Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and the ones we like best. You can find more information in English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch. ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Need magic? Then this is the place to go. The treasures of the Ethnographic Museum include hundreds of implements for magic or other rituals from outside Europe with one of the main focuses on Buddhist and Hindu objects from the Indian subcontinent. The museum, which is pleasantly located in Zurich’s old botanical gardens, has just been renovated.QD-4, Pelikanstrasse 40, 8Sihlporte, tel. +41 44 634 90 10, www.musethno.uzh.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 14:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 17:00, closed Mon. Admission free. KINDERCITY A science city for kids aged 1 to 12. See page 53.QChlirietstrasse12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. KUNSTHAUS Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark MARKETS FLEA MARKET KANZLEI This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well as people who are just flogging things they don’t need anymore.QC-3, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz, www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Sat 08:00 - 16:00. In changing temporary exhibitions parts of this collection will be on show (see section Culture & Events of this guide). There are daily guided tours through the collection (daily at 12:00, Wed 17:00, Sun 13:00, in German). Participants are limited, register by phone + 41 43 446 66 20.QK-6, Pfingstweidstrasse 96, 8Toni-Areal, tel. +41 43 446 67 67, www.museum-gestaltung.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. FRUIT & VEG MARKETS Zurich’s four outdoor food markets offer fresh, often organically grown produce from the region, mostly sold by the farmers themselves. You’ll also find fish from Lake Zurich, different meats and specialities from further afield like Italian salami or Greek cheese. Bürkliplatz (E-5), Tue & Fri, 06:00 - 11:00 Helvetiaplatz (C-2), Tue & Fri, 06:00 - 11:00 Oerlikon (O-2), Wed 06:00 - 11:00, Sat 06:00 - 12:00 Rathausbrücke (F-3), Sat 06:00 - 12:00 Qwww.zuercher-maerkte.ch. haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. Café and shop on the ground floor.QG-4, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. +41 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus. ch. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed & Thu 10:00 - 20:00, Mon closed. Admission for collection 15/10Sfr, for exhibitions 22/17Sfr, combined ticket 27/20Sfr. MUSEUM FÜR GESTALTUNG - SCHAUDEPOT Zurich’s design museum Museum für Gestaltung is going industrial. The museum has just opened its new premises in the one-time dairy factory, the Toni Areal, which has been given a major make-over to accommodate all of the city’s art schools - fine arts, design, graphics, film, dance, theatre, music and more (quite worth a visit in itself ). The new museum is organised as a Schaudepot, i.e. a storage space where objects can also be displayed and viewed. Over 500’000 objects from the genres poster, design, applied art and graphics are stored in the museum’s collections. A storehouse of design - Museum für Gestaltung, Schaudepot. PD NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) It will take you a while to get through the permanent exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides and secret bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry collection of old things. There are four thematic areas: the first section shows the history of migration and settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and the fourth section focusses on economy. For most exhibits explanations in English are available. There are temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see Culture & Events section of this guide). iPad guides in English and other languages available (5Sfr). QE-2, Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 65 11, www.musee-suisse.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr. Playfully discover science T he most e xc it ing Sw iss Family- Center Play with science (from babies to adults) The ‘factory‘ (Chocolate, Labor, cooking, cars, creative) Outdoor area with driving school Themed restaurant and Edustore From Zürich Mainstation – S-Bahn S9 or S14 (15 minutes) · Open 363 days a year Chlirietstrasse 12 | 8604 Volketswil ZH | www.kindercity.ch 36 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket y Fac tor r vat ion Re s e 3 0 6 0 4 0 43 20 April - May 2015 37 Sightseeing Sightseeing Artists, scientists, political visionaries - Zurich has been home to some of the greatest and most original minds of the last century or two. You can follow their footsteps, see many of the houses they lived and worked in and the graves where they are laid to rest. We’ve listed the sites for you, which also include museums and even a pub! The genius par excellence, Albert Einstein, studied natural sciences from 1896 to 1900 at the Polytechnikum, today’s Federal Institute of Technology (ETH), where he later became professor before being awarded the Nobel prize in physics in 1921. Among the new arrivals fleeing the First World War were Marxists and future Russian revolutionaries Lenin and his wife Nadezhda Krupskaya who spent a year of their exile in Zurich. The couple Emmy Hennings and Hugo Ball were to trigger a revolution right in the middle of Zurich itself: the anti-everything art movement Dada. Both active on stage, they were forced to leave Germany in 1915 due to their criticism of the war. Another war refugee, Irish author James Joyce, lived in Zurich from 1915 to 1919, where he wrote large parts of his modern classic Ulysses and also died in 1941 (photo above shows his grave). The furnishings of the James Joyce Pub are from the Jury pub in Dublin, mentioned in Ulysses. Renegade psychoanalyst Carl Gustav Jung worked at the Burghölzli psychiatric asylum in Zurich from 1905 to 1909. Thomas Mann, author of epics such as the Buddenbrocks and Nobel prize winner, also had close ties to Zurich and died here in 1955. The Thomas Mann Archive runs a small museum about his life. SITES AND ADDRESSES ALBERT EINSTEIN Memorial plaque, Unionsstrasse 4, 8Hottingerplatz LENIN AND NADEZHDA KRUPSKAYA Memorial plaque, Spiegelgasse 14, 8 Rathaus DADA ART MOVEMENT Cabaret Voltaire, Spiegelgasse 1, 8Rathaus JAMES JOYCE Memorial plaque, Universitätsstrasse 38, 8Haldenbach James Joyce Foundation, www.joycefoundation.ch Friedhof (Cemetery) Fluntern, Zürichbergstr. 189, 8Zoo James Joyce Pub, Pelikanstrasse 8, 8 Rennweg THOMAS MANN Thomas-Mann-Archiv, Schönberggasse 15. Open Wed & Sat 14:00 - 16:00, admission free. 8Kantonsschule 38 Zurich In Your Pocket NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM) The permanent exhibition of the North America Native Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibitions’ aim is to render a better understanding of the natives of North America and show the various ways the Inuit, Indian and Métis groups lived from the arctic north to the deserts in the southwest.QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen, tel. +41 43 499 24 40, www.nonam. ch. Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon. Admission 12/8/4Sfr, families 20Sfr. GARDENS & PARKS CHINESE GARDEN (CHINAGARTEN) Ok, if you’re looking for authentic Swiss culture, this might catch you off-guard. The full-blown Chinese garden was opened in 1994 as a gift from Zurich’s Chinese sister city Kunming in gratitude for the help Zurich provided in restoring Kunming’s water facilities.The garden’s major theme are the so-called Three Friends of Winter, the pine tree, the bamboo and the plum. The garden is surrounded by a red wall with a unmistakeably Chinese roof.QG-7, Bellerivestrasse 144, 8Fröhlichstrasse, tel. +41 44 380 31 51. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 4/1Sfr. CHURCHES See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster. ST. PETER St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich, Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in 1230.QE-4, St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. SIGHTSEEING TOURS Augustinergasse in the old town - picture postcard Zurich at its www.juanrubiano.com best. Financed by smokers: the awesome Patumbah park and villa. PD VILLA & PARK PATUMBAH Smoking does have its advantages. This opulent villa was financed by smokers - it was built by Carl Fürchtegott Grob who made his huge fortune with tobacco plantations in South-East Asia. For his home in Zurich he hired architects Chiodera and Tschudy in the 1880s and provided them with an almost infinite budget. The result was a magnificent villa with an explosion of styles - Baroque, Gothic and Italian Renaissance blend organically with ornamental elements from East Asia. After long years of neglect, the villa has been painstakingly restored and is now home of the Swiss Heritage Society (www.heimatschutzzentrum.ch) and partly open to the public, as is the English landscape garden surrounding it. Pick up one of the wooden chairs, find a sunny spot and enjoy a moment of bliss - you could even have a smoke.QI-7, Zolllikerstrasse 128, 8Fröhlichstrasse. Park open 06:00 - 22:00, villa open 14:00 - 17:00, Thu & Sun 12:00 - 17:00, Mon & Tue closed. Public tour incl. a visit to the second level of the villa every Thu 12:30. Admission to the villa 10/5Sfr, park free. zurich.inyourpocket.com BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR A city tour in an air-conditioned coach - including a short stroll through the old town and a ride with the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the residential area Zürichberg. In little more than two hours you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district, the old guild houses and the universities. There is a live commentary in English and German, audioguides in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese available.QE-1, Bus Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai / HB, tel. +41 44 710 50 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 13:00 at the NORDAMERIK A NATIVE MUSEUM Indianer & Inuit Kulturen Fascinating insights into the worlds of Native Americans, First Nations and Inuit City of Zurich Seefeldstr. 317, www.nonam.ch facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket bus terminal Sihlquai next to the main train station. Tickets available on the spot, reservation by phone recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr. SEGWAY CITY TOURS Explore Zurich on a Segway - a two-wheeled, selfbalancing electric vehicle. This slightly eccentric guided tour in English and German takes two and a half hours and includes a 40-minute instruction on how to drive the Segway. There are several stops on the lake, on Bahnhofstrasse and Limmatquai. Minimum age is 16 and you need a driving licence (car/motorbike).Qtel. +41 848 734 929, www.segwaycitytours.ch. Every Sat & Sun at 14:00. Book by phone at least one day in advance. Check their website for more tours and tours on weekdays, 89 109Sfr. Private tours (from 4 persons) are available daily (150Sfr p.P.). STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk through the old town of Zurich. Discover the city’s history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German. Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where the bus tours can’t go. For other walks ask at the tourist service at the main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QE-2, Tourist Service Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the tourist service at the main railway station. Daily 15:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 & 15:00. 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with ZürichCARD. NONAM MEET JOYCE, LENIN & CO April - May 2015 39 Old-town stroll Shopping at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the old town. On the right is Cabaret Voltaire, from where the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916. A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas. In the old town you will always find some picturesque views. AM Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the River Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, head down the steps to the metal walkway leading upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water (Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left. A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque - style abbey, the somewhat austere Grossmünster with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river, the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river and then cross the bridge to Fraumünster (see page 34) to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall. You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk further along the river. Sh ppi Sho pping ngg is is big in Zu Zuric richh, ric h, witth some some omethi th ngg too mak thi makee everryon y e happ happ appy. y. | Zuriich Tou Touris rissm (MR) (MR Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if not quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhofstrasse is well known around the globe as one of the most exclusive and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and urban design, the area around Langstrasse is a good spot. In the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t match other European countries where huge centres are the order of the day. But maybe that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping centre, an easily reachable mall opened in 2007, is an example of an innovative development - without being a giant. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed here together with other remarkable shops. Remember all shops are closed on Sundays except at the railway stations. Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to Lindenhof (see page 35), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall. The main shopping areas are: Bahnhofstrasse (E-2/5)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches and designer boutiques as well as the big department stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years not to everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign companies like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Nevertheless a walk down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no less luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden. Ahead of you is the church tower of St. Peter (see page 39), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to the second bridge, Rathausbrücke, also known as the vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market held here on Saturdays. On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right 40 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket Niederdorf (F-3/4) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old town east of the river Limmat - is better known for dining and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the streets Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse - both pedestrian areas - you will find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear, fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also well worth a peek. Old Town (E-3/4) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse and the River Limmat is another shopping area not to miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example with its international clothing brands and boutiques or Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores, a genuine Zurich toys shop as well as cutlery and souvenir shops. OPENING HOURS Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops including jewellers and shops outside the centre often close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings. On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00 (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays all shops are closed (except in train and petrol stations). Banking hours are Mon - Fri 08:30 - 16:30. April - May 2015 41 Shopping Shopping BOOKS & MUSIC &/(-*4)#00,4 ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP Zurich‘s biggest English-language bookshop: over 40,000 fictional and non-fictional books, magazines, audio books and DVDs on three floors - and all in English. There is a strong children‘s section with a children’s reading every first Saturday of the month. QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 70, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 04 44, www.books.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. BOENPSFmQBZVTBWJTJU 0SFMM'ÛTTMJ5IF#PPLTIPQ #BIOIPGTUSBTTF;ÛSJDI XXXCPPLTDI DEPARTMENT STORES GLOBUS The Globus is a classic and stylish department store on Bahnhofstrasse: on six levels you can find everything for your beauty, the latest fashion from brands like Esprit, Marco Polo, Strellson and Dockers, shoes, watches, jewellery, travel bags, lingerie and much more. After strolling through the stories take a break in the pleasant restaurant on the top floor or have a drink in the bar just next to the entrance towards Bahnhofstrasse.QE-2/3, Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse / Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 226 60 60, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Sun. MANOR Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in young and casual fashion and mainly sells its own brands - though they have something for everyone’s needs. Besides that there are departments for beauty, sports, household and home electronics. And last but not least a very popular and excellent self-service restaurant on the top floor.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 229 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 20:00. Closed Sun. LOOQ A cool shop for avant-garde luxury fashion: special patterns and unusual materials by brands like Yohji Yamamoto, Annette Görtz, Hannoh und Yukai.QF-4, Kirchgasse 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 43 233 03 30, www.looq.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. NEW PEPE JEANS Pepe Jeans is a clothing brand that made its name with its trademark blue jeans in the 70ies. Over the decades they have diversified and now have full fashion collections for men, women and children, including knitwear, shirts, shoes and much more. You can find all of it in their Zurich flagship store, including their still very genuine jeans of course. QF-4, Schifflände 5, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 43 343 97 70, www.pepejeans.com. BOUTIQUE ROMA Roma is the boutique for clothing by international avantgarde designers like Rick Owens, Dries van Noten und Ann Demeulemeester. They feature men’s and women’s wear and take pride in traditional handicraft and exquisite materials.QE-3, Pelikanstrasse 6/8, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 222 18 80, www.boutique-roma.ch. Open 09:30 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 42 Zurich In Your Pocket NEW ZARA Spanish label Zara offers its clothing for a young and fashion-conscious clientele on several storeys in their own store right on Bahnhofstrasse. They have collections for men, women and kids and they change them fast, making sure they’re always up to date with the latest trends.QE-3, Bahnhofstrase 66, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 210 07 42, www.zara.com. MALLS & SHOPPING CENTRES EINKAUFSZENTRUM GLATT This is Switzerland’s biggest shopping mall: find almost 100 shops on 43,000m². Besides two departement stores, all kinds of fashion, nine restaurants and everything for your kids, there are also branches of Zurich’s famous watch stores and jewellers. It’s located just outside the city limits, FASHION BERNIE’S DONNA Bernie’s stylish collections are infused with an Italian elegance, in this store for women only. They definitely have a cool selection, but not on the cheap side.QD-3, Usteristrasse 14, 8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 58 426 10 52, www.bernies.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Thu 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. REC REC The Recommended Records store has all the rock music you have been looking for and plenty you haven’t heard of yet in store - and it’s been going for 30 years now. There isn’t just rock, but everything from classic to jazz, ambient, electronica, ethno and world music. All the news of the month on a list, search service and delivery around the globe - a true jewel, this store. QC-2, Rotwandstrasse 64, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 44 291 46 60, www.recrec-shop.ch. Open 11:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun & Mon closed. Worth it just for the mirror: boutique Roma. but it’s easy to get there: take the S3, S9 or S12 train to Stettbach and from there tram 12 to the stop Glatt.QNeue Winterthurerstrasse 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. +41 44 839 42 42, www.glatt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun closed. IM VIADUKT More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the 19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and trendy fashion labels rather than the big luxury brands, studios and concept stores.QL-6/M-6, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg, www.im-viadukt.ch. Closed Sun. At Viadukt the shops are located beneath the railway tracks. PD OUTDOOR CLOTHING & SPORTS NEW ARC’TERYX PARTNERSTORE At Arc’teryx by Perlavia in the Viadukt shopping street they sell top-notch outdoor clothing and gear with style. The main brand they stock is the Canadian Arc’teryx. Be it shell jackets, insulated jackets, base or midlayer clothing, footwear or backpacks, you’ll find it all here. Another thing they specialize in is foldable kayaks of the brand Feathercraft (Canadian as well) - light to carry and up for almost every expedition. Another reason to stop by before your next outdoor adventure.QL-6, Viaduktstrasse 33, 8Dammweg, tel. +41 44 322 33 27, www.arcteryx.ch. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. PD PKZ WOMEN The moving visuals by Julian Opie on the 50 sqm LED screen in the store window make sure you can’t miss the PKZ Women flagship store. On four storeys and sorted by affinities, women can find almost anything they might be looking for: brands like Polo Ralph Lauren, Paul & Joe, See by Chloé, Armani, Diesel and many more, as well as shop in shops by Tommy Hilfiger and Dorothee Schumacher. The new heaven for fashionistas on Bahnhofstrasse.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 88, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel. +41 44 225 11 11, www.pkz.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. zurich.inyourpocket.com ARC’TERYX PARTNERSTORE VIADUKTSTRASSE 33 / BOGEN 27 8005 ZÜRICH MONDAY TILL FRIDAY 11H00 – 19H00 SATURDAY 10H00 – 18H00 PHONE 044 322 33 27 WWW.ARCTERYX.CH facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 43 Shopping GUESS ZURICH Guess has its own flagship store in Zurich - and yes, it is the biggest in the country. In the middle of the Niederdorf they display the Guess and Guess by Marciano collections on more than 500sqm and over two storeys, for both men and women: jeans, garments, shoes, accessories like sunglasses, watches, jewellery, lingerie and perfume the full range of Guess goods is on show and on sale. QF-3, Marktgasse 12, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 43 343 95 71, www.guess.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, closed Sun. Shopping NEW TA-BOU At Ta-Bou they sell bikinis the whole year round. And not just any bikinis, but their very own ones! This family business has been successfully designing and producing bikinis and swimsuits since 1978. And you can buy each top or bottom piece individually so you can combine them according to your taste - or size. In their shop it feels like summer anytime of the year.QE-3, Kuttelgasse 7, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 221 08 11, www.ta-bou.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. SOUVENIRS OCH SPORT At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking, running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have it all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion and outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 56, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. More than just knives - the Victorinox flagship store. PD EDELWEISS SHOP At the Edelweiss shop, they have a huge choice of souvenirs and gifts including clothing (with lots of Swiss crosses of course!), toys, bags, watches army knives and much more. The shop is situated at the exit of the big hall of the main railway station towards Bahnhofstrasse. They feautre brands like Swiss Military and Alpine Club.QE-2, Bahnhofplatz, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 497 23 80, www.edelweiss-shops.ch. Open 08:00 - 21:30. Time to take up sport again ALPRAUSCH Founded in the year 2000 by Swiss snowboard pioneer Andy Tanner, Alprausch (alpine high) designs stylish street and sportswear. Browse through their latest collection in their flagship store close to Bahnhofstrasse. Take home one of their t-shirts as a souvenir from Switzerland - a good alternative to chocolate, we think.QE-3, Werdmühleplatz 4, 8Bahnhofstrasse / Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 497 32 00, www.alprausch.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 17:00. Closed Sun. MESSER-SCHARF Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage, and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage. You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other products by Victorinox and Wenger, such as kitchen implements, watches or rucksacks. Messer-scharf also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma.QF-4, Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 251 01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QE-3, Uraniastrasse 1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. +41 44 222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 18:00. Closed Sun. VICTORINOX FLAGSHIP STORE This is the brand new flagship store by Victorinox, the Swiss family business of world renown. They may be best known for their Swiss army knives, but they also produce other high-quality items like cutlery, watches, travel gear and fashion - which is all in stock at this store of course. At the Knife Assembly Station you can even make your own unique Swiss army knife by choosing size, functions and colours. A special souvenir or gift!QE-3, Rennweg 58, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 229 60 70, www.victorinox.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 18:30, Sun closed. Bahnhofstrasse 56, Zürich www.ochsport.ch 44 Zurich In Your Pocket SWISS DESIGN MENG CUTLERY Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous brands Victorinox and Wenger. Also in stock: other knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QE-3, Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 18 48, www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. SHOES & ACCESSORIES OXBLOOD SHOES This store is for shoe aficionados. They mainly have top-quality business shoes on offer, most of them made of Shell Cordovan leather (from a particular part of a horsehide only) for a special rich and glossy look. Only exclusive shoemakers use this leather from the Chicago leather company Horween: Ludwig Reiter, Cordwanier and Allen Edmonds for example. Needless to say the shoes at Oxblood don’t come cheap. But true quality has its price, always.QD-2, Europaallee 19, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. +41 44 240 51 51, www.oxbloodshoes.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP At Teddy’s they have a wide range of souvenirs and gifts. Whether it’s clocks, cowbells, hats, music boxes, soft toys, pocket knives or clothes you’re after: you’ll find it all at their shop on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmünster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a traditional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of yore. And yes, the souvenir shop is open even on Sundays.QF-4, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel. +41 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. zurich.inyourpocket.com facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 45 Shopping Watches & Jewellery SWISS CHOCOLATE Max Chocolatier HONOLD LA CONFISERIE Since 1905 Honold Confiserie has been producing chocolate, cakes and pastries just next to Bahnhofstrasse. Their chocolate cake and the birchermüesli (oat flakes with fruits and yoghurt) are also well-known.QE-3, Rennweg 53, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 52 58, www.honold.ch. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 07:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. CARAN D’ACHE Caran d’ Ache is the renowned Swiss producer of writing instruments. In their Zurich boutique you will find their entire collection - everything from pens, pencils, markers and fountain pens to paints and paint brushes. Their boxes of colour pencils are a classic present for children, but you can also just treat yourself to one of the elegant pens. QD-3, Löwenstrasse 19, 8Löwenplatz, tel. +41 44 273 90 00, www.carandache.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. Wheter on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The next couple of pages will guide you! SWISS FOOD AIRBIJOUX Fine selection of watches at the lake end of Bahnhofstrasse: e.g. Baume & Mercier, Charriol and Eterna.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 1, 8Börsenstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 21 71, www.airbijoux.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 17:00, Sun closed. BERG UND TAL Located in Zurich’s first market hall in the Viadukt shopping mall, Berg und Tal - literally mountain and valley - sells delicacies and specialities from all over Switzerland. Sausages from the mountains, pasta from Ticino, syrups, jam, fruit liquor, cheese...and much more. As you’re here, stroll through the rest of the hall as well, as there are many more food specialities to explore.QL-6, Limmatstrasse 231 (Im Viadukt), 8Dammweg, tel. +41 44 271 21 61, www.berg-tal.ch. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. MAX CHOCOLATIER Originating from Lucerne, Max Chocolatier now offer their sweet 100% natural delicacies in Zurich too - as shop-in-shop inside the Globus department store at Bellevue. They sell chocolates and pralines of outstanding quality. The chocolatiers actually make the treats by hand, whether it’s bars of dark Madagascan chocolate with pumpkin seeds, creamy caramel delicacies or their own chocolate spread.QF-5, Globus Bellevue, Theaterstrasse 12, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 58 578 67 33, www.maxchocolatier.com. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. VOLLENWEIDER CHOCOLATIER CONFISEUR This confectioner’s home town is Winterthur, but his first Zurich shop is an enrichment for the lovers of sweets in town. Macaroons, truffes, small chocolate candies - they have it all. And much more.QG-5, Theaterstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 43 288 04 04, www.vollenweiderchocolatier.ch. Open 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Sun closed. Switzerland has some fine regional sausage specialities - eg. at Berg und Tal. CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY With more than 80 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof (Bahnhofstrasse 57, E-3) and Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, E-3). QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Fine jewellery on display at Christ. PD DEGUSSA GOLDHANDEL (GOLD & SILVER) At Degussa, you can invest in gold and silver and other basic materials. They have their trademark bars and ingots on stock for you - choose them in their exclusive Zurich showroom. Their gold bars for example come in sizes from 1 to 1000 grams, the ones up to a size of 100 grams are minted, the heavier ones come in the classic cast form. Other than gold and silver they sell rhodium, platinum and palladium bars and many investment coins from around the world.QD-5, Bleicherweg 41, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel. +41 44 403 41 10, www.degussa-goldhandel.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun closed. PD PRETÔT DELIKATESSEN It‘s all about sausages here: smoked, dried, for boiling coming from all the different corners of Switzerland, straight to the heart of Zurich.QE-3, Kuttelgasse 3, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 221 05 33, www.lafinebouche.ch. Open 09:00 -18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun closed. ON THE ENTIRE SELEC TION OF WATCHES AND JE W EL RY. VA L ID UNTIL JUNE 3 0, 2 015, IN A L L CHRIS T SHOPS. IN ZURICH AT BA HN HOFS TR A SSE 78, JEL M OL I, S T. A NN A HOF. Globus Bellevue, Zurich Come and taste finest Swiss chocolate! HANDMADE . SWISS . 100% NATURAL . UNIQUE 46 Zurich In Your Pocket www.christ-swiss.ch Does not apply to special orders, services, repairs or gift certificates. Cannot be com bined with any other offers. www.maxchocolatier.com zurich.inyourpocket.com Say it with facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 47 Watches & Jewellery GÜBELIN Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches and precious stones. You will find their own jewellery lines New York, Madagascar, Paris and Atlantis as well as many renowned watch brands such as Breguet and Jaeger Le Coultre.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. IWC BOUTIQUE Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic watches, be it the pilot’s series or the diver’s watch family and exclusive models only available in their flagship stores. All presented in a hyper designed shop which includes a relaxing lounge area.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 61, 8Rennweg, www.iwc.com. Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed. JORDI SWISS ICON Swiss designer Michel Jordi presents his Jordi Swiss Icon luxury watches in his flagship store. Two signature elements recur in all the models, the Swiss cross on the watch crown and the Swiss folklore inspired silhouette ornamentation by Swiss artist Barthlomé Imobersteg. The line also carries leather accessories, shirts and scarfs.QF-2, Niederdorfstrasse 90, 8Central, tel. +41 44 251 23 27, www.micheljordi.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun & Mon closed. KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES Wide selection of mainly Swiss watches like Omega, Zenith, Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more, as well as a large selection of jewellery e.g. by H. Stern and Chopard (sister shop at Globus, Schweizergasse 11, outlet store on Uraniastrasse 26).QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. +41 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun. TAX FREE SHOPPING As a foreign resident you are entitled to a refund when making purchases for more than 300Sfr (including VAT), provided the goods leave the country within 30 days. You will get back the VAT, which in Switzerland is only 8% - minus a handling fee. It’s as easy as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign. When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund, present your stamped tax refund form at a Global Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around Europe). For more infos see www.global-blue.com. 48 Zurich In Your Pocket MONTBLANC ZURICH Watches, writing instruments and leather goods is what built Montblanc’s world renown. And though the company was founded in Germany it’s part of the Swiss Richemont group now and the watches are manufactured in Switzerland. In their exquisite boutique on Bahnhofstrasse you will find the personal service you can expect of a brand like Montblanc.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 25, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 44 211 48 10, www.montblanc.ch. Open 09:30 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. Making time a value since 1760 The display windows around Paradeplatz are full of luxury watches. Zurich Tourism (GB) PARTIME This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at the retailers indicated on page 50 - 51, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery to your hotel (60Sfr.).Qtel. +41 44 445 14 55, www.partime.ch. BEYER For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and repairing watches. The family business is now managed by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling some of the world’s most soughtafter brands, such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and Cartier, as well as its own Beyer brand. Guests are treated to first-class service, a glass of champagne and delicious Sprüngli chocolates. The goldsmiths at Beyer’s fine jewellery workshop create exquisite customised pieces, for some royals too. The neighbouring Patek Philippe boutique is also managed by Beyer and offers a wide range of exclusive timepieces.QE-4, Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. +41 43 344 63 63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sun. zurich.inyourpocket.com «We only deal in watches that will stand the test of time. As, indeed, we have.» René Beyer Watches & Jewellery Bahnhofstrasse 31 8001 Zurich beyer-ch.com A. Lange & Söhne Audemars Piguet Balmain Baume & Mercier Bell & Ross Beyer Blancpain Breguet Breitling Bulgari Cartier Certina Charriol Chopard Corum De Grisogono Ebel Eterna Franck Muller Girard Perregaux Hublot IWC Schaffhausen Jaquet Droz Jaeger-LeCoultre Jowissa Longines Louis Erard Maurice Lacroix Mido Mondaine Movado Omega Oris Parmigiani Fleurier Patek Philippe Piaget Quinting Rado Raymond Weil Rolex Swatch Swiss Military TAG Heuer Tiffany Tissot Ulysse Nardin Urwerk Victorinox Swiss Army Vulcain Wenger Zenith Zurich Partime Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1 Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31 1 2 3 • • • 50 Zurich In Your Pocket • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31 Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25 Cartier Joailliers, Bahnhofstrasse 47 Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40 Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78 Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36 IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61 Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80 La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25 Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64 Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33 Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4 Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31 messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25 Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48 Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5 Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31 Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17 Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52 Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14 Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94 Türler A., Paradeplatz Visconti, Münstergasse 23 11 Galli, Theaterstrasse 16 Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45 Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126 Christian Goldschmiede, Limmatplatz 1 Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50 Bourquin, Langstrasse 234 Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82 Watches Watches 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • zurich.inyourpocket.com • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket • T IS S OT T-TOUC H E X P E RT S OLA R POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY TACTILE TECHNOLOGY • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • April - May 2015 51 Zurich Nord Zurich for kids The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now home to many international companies, the trade fair, some hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely don’t have to go to the city centre (even though it’s close) to have a good night out. Check out our favourites below: RESTAURANTS ASIAWAY This place is not about atmosphere - it’s about great Asian food. Order your favourite Vietnamese dishes and more (fried noodles, generous soups, curries, crispy duck and the likes) and you can watch the all-Vietnamese kitchen staff prepare your dishes. Wash down the hot meals with one of the Asian beers available and spoil yourself with a surprising dessert afterwards.QO-2, Schwamendingenstrasse 10, 8Salersteig, tel. +41 44 310 80 08, www.asiaway.ch. Open 11:00 -14:00, 17:30 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, closed Sun. (13 - 25Sfr). AB TRES AMIGOS The nine exisiting Tres Amigos restaurants prove the success of the simple concept: tasty Texmex food and drinks in a colorful Mexican setting including the compulsory sombrero on the wall. The branch in Zurich Nord is much the same: nachos, enchilladas, fajitas, tacos - it’s all there for you. As well as meat like spare ribs or beef fillet skewers and sea food like red snapper or shrimps. Good choice for a dinner or some cocktails with your friends in this part of the town.QO-2, Querstrasse 16, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 311 82 52, www.tresamigos.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Wed 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Kitchen open all day until 22:30, Fri & Sat 23:30. (23 - 46Sfr). AB ZIEGELHÜTTE At the forest’s edge in Schwamendingen lies the Ziegelhütte, a real country inn within the city limits. On the menu you’ll find - surprise surprise - good, rustic dishes like älplermagronen (maccaroni and potatoes with cream and ham), schnitzel and risotto. You can feel that they like what they do here. Take tram N°7 (direction Stettbach) to Schwamendingerplatz, from there it’s an easy 8-minute walk. Or coming from the centre, hike there through the forest in little more than 30 minutes, starting at the zoo. Brunch buffet on sunday mornings.QHüttenkopfstrasse 70, 8Schwamendingerplatz, tel. +41 44 322 40 03, www.wirtschaft-ziegelhuette.ch. Open 09:30 - 22:30, Fri & Sat 09:30 - 23:30, Sun 09:30 - 21:00, Mon closed. Occasional concerts in the hall. AB Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. ZOOS & PARKS KINDERCITY Kindercity is a science city for children aged 1 to 12, much more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human body, renewable energy or modern communication, using sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover, accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof for under-aged drivers - and much more. From Zurich, take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at Schwerzenbach to bus N°725, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet (duration: 22 minutes).QChlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil, tel. +41 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes) 27.50Sfr., activities can also be booked separately e.g. knowledge lane 14.50Sfr (17.50 adults). NIGHTLIFE Asiaway has all the Vietnamese specialities like Pho soup. PD CHEYENNE The Cheyenne is the place for American food in Zurich Nord: big burgers, spare ribs and Mexican-style burritos are its specialities. Sit at large tables and watch all the important football and ice hockey games on the screens. The signed NHL T-shirt of the famous Swiss player Mark Streit on the wall is Cheyenne‘s pride. A venue for lads and expats. QO-2, Querstrasse 3, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. +41 44 313 90 90, www.cheyenne-oerlikon.ch. Open 09:00 24:00. Kitchen open until 22:00, Tue - Sat until 23:00. Brunch on Sat & Sun 09:00 - 16:00. (23 - 38Sfr). AB GIESSEREI The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining restaurant, though the place still looks like the last workers just left this ancient foundry a couple of weeks ago. The menu is simple: every day there are a few different starters, main courses and desserts - an international mix according to the season and the desires of the kitchen crew. Recommended.QN-2, Birchstrasse 108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel. +41 43 205 10 10, www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:30 (brunch). (3 courses approx. 40 - 80Sfr). AB 52 Zurich In Your Pocket COOPER’S PUB Located just next to Oerlikon train station, the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and and serve really affordable and we have to say delicious burgers (13 - 21Sfr). There are also some steak variations, pies and salads on the menu. QSchaffhauserstrasse 359, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. +41 76 261 00 30, www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:45 - 02:00, Sun 13:45 - 22:00. BK GLEIS 9 Located in an old brick building, Track 9 is a bar and bistro close to the Oerlikon train station. We particularly like the separate bar room, but the Swiss lunch deals like bratwurst (veal sausage) with potato salad, pasta, grilled Italian sandwiches and curries are not bad either. The evening menu offers tartar and cordon bleu. For a more sophisticated dining experience move over to their restaurant Perron 9.QN-2, Affolternstr. 52, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon, tel. +41 43 288 94 44, www.gleis9.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun closed. (24 - 30Sfr). ABKX zurich.inyourpocket.com RESTAURANTS PIZZA PASTA CIAO! This restaurant has a playroom for kids with a baby sitter. So you can enjoy their classic Italian food all the way to the espresso and be sure your kids are having fun too. The menu features everything that comes to your mind when you think Italy: from home-made pasta to pizza to meat like filetto di manzo (beef filet).QI-5, Asylstrase 125, 8Klusplatz, tel. +41 43 499 07 12, www.pizzapastaciao.ch. Open 10:30 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00. SHOPS FRANZ CARL WEBER Never-ending toy shop on four floors with virtually anything you might be looking for, includes books and a pizzeria.QE-3, Bahnhofstrasse 62, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 225 78 78, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. MOGLI CHINDERLADE This charming little shop sells clothes for children up to ten years, colourful, cheeky and never run-of-themill. Many of the brands like Lana, frugi or Selana are ecologically and socially responsible.QE-3, Schipfe 39, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 211 58 87, www.mogli-chinderlade.ch. Open 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun & Mon. WELCOME TO THE MOST FAMOUS PARADISE OF TOYS FOR CHILDREN, SINCE 1881. Hello World! We can call you from Kindercity! PD ZURICH ZOO Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city. The pride of this zoological garden which was opened in 1929 is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the ecosystem in the Masoala National park in Madagascar on some 10,000sqm. Animals like lemurs or giant tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch and walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes peeled, probably a chameleon is sitting on a branch right next to you. But the rainforest is not the only thing worth seeing. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been changing the traditional-style enclosures into whole ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs, e.g. an Indian dry forest for the lions or Himalaya mountains for snow leopards, wolves, and Siberian tigers.QJ-1, Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. +41 848 96 69 83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Masoala hall opens at 10:00. Admission 22/16 (16 - 25 years)/11Sfr. facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket Bahnhofstrasse Zürich,versüssen. www.fcw.ch Spielsachen, 62, die8001 Träume April - May 2015 53 Day trips Day trips If you have some more time on your hands you might want to explore a bit further afield and leave Zurich for a day. With the warm weather here, it’s time to discover Switzerland’s stunning landscapes. Many scenic destinations also offer cultural sites. We’ve put together a selection of our favourites. And there are plenty of other options to consider such as museums, monasteries and thermal baths. ANIMAL PARKS KNIES KINDERZOO Situated on the other end of Lake Zurich, this zoo which belongs to the Swiss national circus Knie is all laid out for kids. There are around 400 animals of 44 species, and kids and interested parents can touch and stroke many of them. It’s possible to ride ponies, camels and even elephants. Apart from that there is a sea lion show and a big adventure playground. Combine the trip with a cruise on the lake and get there by ship!QOberseestrasse, Rapperswil, tel. +41 55 220 67 60, www.knieskinderzoo.ch. Take the trains S5 or S15 with destination Rapperswil (40 minutes). Open 09:00 - 18:00, March 7 - Oct 31, 2015. Admission 19/6Sfr. THERMAL BATHS THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH Zurich’s first thermal bath is located in the buildings that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools, some of them in the old stone cellars as well as an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year, with a view over the city and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, massage jets and resting zones there is a Irish-Roman Spa area with ten different stations like a peeling niche or herbal steam for complete relaxation (extra fee applies). QC-5, Brandschenkestrasse 150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. +41 44 205 96 50, www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 34/16Sfr, children up to 6 years free. ALPAMARE Alpamare is the biggest indoor waterpark in Europe, just 45 minutes by train from Zurich. There are ten slides with a length of more than 1,500 metres and different levels of difficulty, a wave pool, a river-like pool and a iodine brine bath with massage jets. Alpamare will definitely brighten up a rainy day, not just for kids. Up to five connections per hour take you from Zurich to Pfäffikon SZ (SZ means in canton Schwyz). From there, take bus N°195 to the Seedamm-Center (no service on Sundays) or walk there in 15 minutes.QGwattstrasse 12, Pfäffikon SZ, tel. +41 55 415 15 15, www.alpamare.ch. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri & Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. A four-hour stay is 39.50/32Sfr. On weekends a surcharge of 3Sfr applies. 54 Zurich In Your Pocket The fine Baroque architecture at Einsiedeln abbey won’t disappoint PD you. CULTURE & HERITAGE EINSIEDELN ABBEY Einsiedeln (meaning ‘hermit’s’) Abbey is one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Switzerland. The Benedictine abbey complex was built from scratch in the early 18th century, replacing older buildings going back to the 10th century. The church with its opulent, gold and marble interior and the shrine of the black madonna is open for visitors daily from 06:00 - 20:30, but be considerate during services. The outstanding library can only be visited on a guided tour. The small town of the same name is set among wooded hills, close to lake Sihl, just at the edge of the Alps - perfect for a walk. The panorama path that leads you to the lake and back in 2.5 hours starts just behind the abbey’s stables. There are four to five trains an hour from Zurich main station which get you there in about an hour, for most connections you have to change at Wädenswil.QEinsiedeln, tel. +41 55 418 61 11, www.kloster-einsiedeln.ch. Guided tours start at 14:00 (105 minutes) and 17:00 (60 minutes, mid May until October) every day except Sundays and cost 15/7.50Sfr. Unfortunately the tours are only in German. Meeting point is Einsiedeln Tourism, Hauptstrasse 85, tel +41 55 418 44 88. No need to book. OUTDOOR DESTINATIONS FLUMSERBERG High above lake Walensee, Flumserberg is an easy-to-reach mountain destination between Zurich and the Grison Alps in eastern Switzerland. More than 150 kilometres of hiking trails, biking trails of all levels of difficulty, the summer toboggan run Floomzer and a large climbing tower await you for action. But it’s also a nice destination for calm walks with great mountain views. After a 60-minute train ride to Unterterzen (sometimes changing trains in Ziegelbrücke), a cable car takes you up to Tannenboden, from where you have access to all the fun. In April and most of May the cable car is closed, you can reach Flumserberg by bus from Sargans only. The lifts and toboggan run will open on May 23 (weekends only until June 13) - but walking and hiking will be possible earlier. Just make sure you wear good shoes, as there might still be some snow here and there.QBergbahnen, Flumserberg, tel. +41 81 720 15 15, www.flumserberg.ch. Many different price options, check their website. zurich.inyourpocket.com MOUNT PILATUS - HIGH ABOVE LUCERNE The Pilatus rises majestically above the city of Lucerne. From the summit, more than 2,100 metres above sea level, you can see as many as 73 alpine peaks and all the lakes of central Switzerland - or the sun shining above a sea of fog. Get there either by cable car and aerial cableway from Kriens (runs all year) or on the world’s steepest cogwheel railway from Alpnachstad (operates mid May until the end of October) - or do a roundtrip using both. At the top there are five different panorama paths all easily accessible (we recommend good shoes and a jacket though) taking you to the peaks in 10 - 20 minutes, some paths leading through tunnels with windows for a view. There are also two hotels and restaurants. At Fräkmüntegg where you have to change from the cable car to the aerial cableway, there is a summer toboggan run and a suspension rope park. From Zurich, take the train to Luzern (dep. 04 and 35 past the hour, duration 50 minutes), then bus N°1 with destination Kriens. Get off 20 minutes later at the stop Linde/Pilatus. Or from Luzern take the train to Alpnachstad (20 minutes) where the cogwheel train leaves.QPilatus Bahnen AG, Schlossweg 1, Kriens, tel. +41 41 329 11 11, www.pilatus.ch. Adults 72Sfr, children 36Sfr (return journey, either cablecar or cogwheel train). Take in the view down into the valley at Flumserberg. PD RHEINFALL - EUROPE’S BIGGEST WATERFALL A trip to the Rheinfall makes for a great day out. Europe’s biggest waterfall is just a 50-minute train ride from Zurich. Close to the city of Schaffhausen the water of the river Rhine plunges down an impressive 23 metres on a width of more than 150 metres. Two castles or schlösser watch over the waterfall: Schloss Laufen overlooks the top of MOUNTAIN TOURS BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS Day trips organised by tour operators are an easy way to explore Switzerland and its gorgeous mountains. Forget the hassle with timetables, itineraries and the like. Just snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi, Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier await you, including sledging on snow tubes if you like. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check their website for available tours and book up to a day before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station), close to track 18. Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. +41 44 710 50 50. the fall, Schlössli Wörth is situated at the bottom. By train it’s easiest to approach the falls from Laufen. At Zurich main train station, take one of the many trains going to Winterthur (Canton Zurich’s second largest town). In Winterthur take train S33 with destination Schaffhausen and get off at the stop Schloss Laufen. After a short walk you arrive at the visitor’s centre, an exhibition about the history of the Rheinfall (5/3.50Sfr including access to the viewing platform) and at the castle. A boat takes you to the other side of the river (2/1Sfr) and from there to the rock in the middle of the waterfall (every ten minutes from 10:00 - 18:00 (11:00 - 17:00 in April and October), 8/4Sfr). Stairs lead up the rock where you get a fantastic view of the falls, spray included. On both sides of the river there are paths with lookout platforms and restaurants - so take some time for a walk. There is an adventure park on the northern side of the falls, where you can climb on ropes strung between trees - secured of course. (Open 10:00 - 19:00, 40/32/16Sfr, summer only).QNeuhausen am Rheinfall, www.rheinfall.ch. recreation within 1 hour from Zurich. XXXèVNTFSCFSHDI facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 55 Queer Zurich Hotels Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re hetero. Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival (June 19 & 20, 2015, www.zhpf.ch) since 2010, this is a huge event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival (April 29 - May 7, 2015, www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from all over the world and awards a prize to a young director. But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites or ask in some of the bars too. CAFÉS & BARS CRANBERRY Campari is a major theme in this minimalist bar - a play on the most famous Swiss German pop song Campari Soda? You can certainly order campari soda, but the team will make you most any other cocktail - and well. The Cranberry is a buzzing bar for gays, lesbians and anybody gay-friendly. There are occasional theme parties. Check out the (mainly German) website for some useful queer links.QF-3, Metzgergasse 3, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 261 27 72, www.cranberry.ch. Open 17:00 - 24:00. MÄNNERZONE A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week (Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no official rule on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fits the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find here.QC-2, Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. +41 43 243 30 43, www.maennerzone.ch. Open Fri & Sat 21:00 02:30. PETRA’S TIP TOP BAR Chanson - or what is called schlager in German - is at the top of the menu here. But there’s enough Abba, Boney M and what have you as well. Host Peter is well known - especially for his drag performances. A cosy place for some nostalgic merrymaking.QF-3, Seilergraben 13, 8Neumarkt, tel. +41 44 251 78 20, www.tip-top-bar.ch. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Fri & Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun & Mon closed. Pink meets politics at the Pride Festival. Zurich Pride Festival RESOURCES GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE This is a Zurich-centred gay online community with English-language content. There’s a chat area, personals and a listing of up-coming events and infos on gay venues. You have to register for access, a standard membership is free.Qwww.gaymeboys.com. RAINBOWLINE Rainbowline offers telephone counseling on queer issues such as safe sex or homophobic violence on +41 848 80 50 80 from 19:00 to 21:00 from Mon to Thu (female counselors on Mon & Wed). Counseling is in German, but many counselors speak some English and definitely enough to be of help in case of violence or another emergency. Rates are normal local rates.Qtel. +41 848 80 50 80, www.rainbowline.ch. 56 Zurich In Your Pocket CLUBS & PARTIES HEAVEN It was sad news in spring 2013: the T&M, a gay club where generations of gay men had spent half their tender years, had to close. But we have witnessed a resurrection. Heaven opened soon after, just a few blocks away. The new team running this cosy club promise music from charts and house to more underground tastes like deep house.QF-3, Spitalgasse 5, 8RudolfBrun Brücke, www.heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 23:00 - 08:00. RAGE Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works - darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on the weekend. QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch. Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. 15-20Sfr. NX zurich.inyourpocket.com Zurich is a business destination first and foremost - and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this, accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is something for any taste and almost any budget. In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with stars from one to five. The categorization is done by hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels according to their official classification in the following categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Midrange*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification we list pensions - usually small and with less services than a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. CREAM OF THE CROP ALDEN The smallest boutique five-star hotel in Zurich, in a building from the late 19th century in the Enge district, lies within walking distance of the lake and the glamorous shopping area around Bahnhofstrasse. Each room is one of a kind, with a careful choice of modern and antique furniture and art. Bathrooms are huge, with a jacuzzi-style bath tub and a rain shower. Book one of the lofts (one has its own sauna) and enjoy your own private terrace above the rooftops of Zurich. The ground floor harbours a restaurant with international cuisine and a bar. A very personal five-star experience.QD-5, Splügenstrasse 2, 8Tunnelstrasse, tel. +41 44 289 99 99, fax +41 44 289 99 98, [email protected], www.alden.ch. 22 rooms. PJR6KW hhhhh WIDDER The fabulous Widder is situated in nine former residential houses in the mediaeval old town, with the prestigious Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each of the 49 rooms is different in layout and atmosphere. Many have traces of historical paintings which were brought to new life when the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some rooms have modern elements which contrast with the ancient walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques and look more classical. Some rooms have a private roof terrace with views over the old town towards the lake and the Alps. Naturally they all have the latest entertainment technology and bathrooms to dream of.QE-3, Rennweg 7, 8Rennweg, tel. +41 44 224 25 26, fax +41 44 224 24 24, reservations@ widderhotel.ch, www.widderhotel.ch. 49 rooms. PJHAR6UFLKW hhhhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket At top notch Alden hotel only the building is from the 19th century. PD UPMARKET AMBASSADOR À L’OPÉRA The Ambassador Small Luxury Hotel is situated just next to the Zurich Opera house and a stone‘s throw from the lake. The rooms of this elegant Neo-Baroque building have high ceilings, creating a feeling of spaciousness, even in the smaller rooms. The interior is kept in a classic and elegant English style. The beds are electrically adjustable, there is a coffee machine in every room and free Wi-fi. As a special service you can choose from a range of different styles of pillows at the reception. The Opera restaurant on the ground floor (try their fish specialities) offers picnic baskets. Take one along to the lake or the hotel’s roof terrace.QF-5, Falkenstrasse 6, 8Opernhaus, tel. +41 44 258 98 98, fax +41 44 258 98 00, [email protected], www.ambassadorhotel.ch. 45 rooms. PJA6KW hhhh SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly H Conference facilities R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled F Fitness centre L Parking on site K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station D Sauna C Swimming pool 6 Animal friendly W Wi-fi connection J City centre location April - May 2015 57 Hotels Hotels ASCOT The Ascot opened in 1955 and was completely refurbished in 2010. The dark wooden furnishing is now the hallmark of the rooms which feature large beds, an armchair, an espresso machine, a flat-screen TV and free internet access. South facing rooms have balconies. The updated bathrooms are styled in vivid colours and have a bathtub. Both the lake and Bahnhofstrasse are just a few minutes away. There are direct trains to the airport from the train station Zurich Enge just across the square. Start your evening at the very British Turf Bar on the ground floor or enjoy steak and seafood in the restaurant Ascot.QD-5, Tessinerplatz 9, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. +41 44 208 14 14, fax +41 44 208 14 20, [email protected], www.ascot.ch. 74 rooms. PJHA6LKW hhhh The hotels on the lakefront looking festive. CROWNE PLAZA The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund stadium 13 minutes (8 stops) from the city centre by tram. The 365 rooms have all been completely refurbished in 2010 and now come in a mix of bright and light brown hues, with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds, a shower or a bathtub and free tea and coffee making facilities. Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work space and a couch lounge. For lunch or dinner, the two in-house restaurants Relais des Arts and Letzileu tend to your needs.QBadenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund, tel. +41 44 404 44 44, fax +41 44 404 44 40, [email protected], www.cpzurich.ch. 365 rooms. PHAR6UFLBKW hhhh BUDGET HOTELS HOTTINGEN This two-star hotel was completely refurbished in 2011 and offers functional, well designed rooms with wooden floors and bright colours. The high ceilings make for a comfortable, spacious room feeling. Besides single and double rooms there are rooms for three or even four guests. Most rooms have private bathrooms with showers, all of them feature a flatscreen TV. There is a fully equipped small kitchen on every floor which you can use to prepare a meal or tea and coffee. The old town and the lake are in walking distance (10 - 15 minutes), tram stop just next to the hotel. QG/H-3, Hottingerstrasse 31, 8Hottingerplatz, tel. +41 44 256 19 19, fax +41 44 256 19 00, info@ hotelhottingen.ch, www.hotelhottingen.ch. 32 rooms. JA6ULW hh MARTA The marta is a functional hotel, very centrally located in the Niederdorf, just a few minutes away from the main train station. It was completely refurbished in 2010 and the blue coloured rooms have a modern feel now. There is a twin bed, a bathroom with shower and a flatscreen TV in every room, as well as Wi-fi throughout the hotel. The hotel is run by a non-profit cooperation, giving socially challenged women an opportunity to work. There is no air-conditioning but ventilators. QF-3, Zähringerstrasse 36, 8Central, tel. +41 44 269 95 95, fax +41 44 269 95 90, [email protected], www.hotelmarta.ch. 39 rooms. JHA6UW hh 58 Zurich In Your Pocket RAMADA HOTEL ZÜRICH CITY The Ramada is situated next to the Letzigrund sports stadium, a 15-minute tram ride from the city centre. It was opened in February 2011 and offers four-star comfort at reasonable prices. The huge flowers on the wallpaper give the modern rooms a fresh touch. The Business rooms offer free use of a capsule coffee machine. There is an exercise room, a sauna and the Restaurant La Terrasse with a nice garden.QBadenerstrasse 537, 8Freihofstrasse, tel. +41 44 437 99 00, zuerich@ ramada-treff.ch, www.h-hotels.com/zuerich. 159 rooms. PHAR6UFLBKDW hhhh PD FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON SIHLCITY This four-star hotel is housed in what was once the warehouse of a 19th-century paper mill. The listed columns and windows are subtly integrated into the architecture and give the hotel a distinct urban-industrial touch. There are five different room types, all offering large showers, huge beds and flat screen TVs with internet access. Mineral water, internet, national calls and coffee are included. The Four Points Hotel is located in the shopping mall Sihlcity which includes a multiplex cinema, restaurants and excellent connections to the city centre and the lake by tram and train (8 min). The Asia Spa is located in the same building and offers discounted entry for hotel guests.QB-6, Kalandergasse 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. +41 44 554 00 00, fax +41 44 554 00 01, sihlcity@ fourpoints.com, www.fourpointssihlcity.com. 132 rooms. PHAR6ULKW hhhh NOVOTEL ZÜRICH CITY-WEST The classic Novotel experience: the modern business rooms feature a double bed, a mini-bar, a bathtub or shower and a free dataport and Wi-fi for your laptop. A room can accommodate up to two adults and two children up to 16 years old (on the pull-out sofa) for one standard price. The Novotel is located in Zurich West, a hip district with many restaurants, clubs and bars - all within walking distance. The new tram stops just next to the hotel and takes you to the centre in 10 minutes. Hardbrücke train station with many connections to the airport is just one stop away. There is also a small swimming pool for a relaxing swim after an exhausting day.QK-6, Schiffbaustrasse 13, 8Technoparkstrasse, tel. +41 44 276 22 00, fax +41 44 276 22 99, [email protected], www.novotel.com/2731. 144 rooms. PTHAR6UFLBKCW hhhh zurich.inyourpocket.com SORELL ZÜRICHBERG This architectural jewel high above Zurich lies at the edge of the forest and yet is just 15 minutes by tram from the main railway station and the lake. The view up here is thrilling, with the city, the lake and the crests of the Alps all visible from the generous veranda. The hotel is a combination of two different parts, a splendid Jugendstil building and a spiral annex in contemporary design by Zurich architects Burkhalter & Sumi. Rooms are modern and brightly coloured and all come with Nespresso coffee machines. The in-house restaurant R21 offers French cuisine with a Swiss touch. No air-conditioning.QJ-1, Orellistrasse 21, 8Zoo, tel. +41 44 268 35 35, fax +41 44 268 35 45, [email protected], www.zuerichberg.ch. 66 rooms. HA6ULBKW hhhh MID-RANGE The tram stop at Stauffacher, a reference point for locals. ZIYP SCHWEIZERHOF This four-star superior establishment is a good choice for those who come to Zurich to shop on famous Bahnhofstrasse - it‘s located just opposite the main train station where the shopping starts. Business travelers will also enjoy the first-class service provided which includes coffee and tea, a fruit basket and a butler who will knock on your door in the evening, offering you chocolate, fruit and newspapers. Situated in a listed historic building, the rooms of the Schweizerhof are furnished in a very classic style and feature a trouser press and electricallyadjustable beds.QE-2, Bahnhofplatz 7, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 218 88 88, fax +41 44 218 81 81, info@ hotelschweizerhof.com, www.hotelschweizerhof.com. 107 rooms. PJHAR6KXW hhhh BASILEA The Basilea is a functional three-star hotel in the old town, in walking distance of the main train station, all the sights and Bahnhofstrasse. The rooms are kept in earthy colours, the wallpaper over the bed with an impressive view of the Alps will remind you you’re in Switzerland when you awake. Rooms come with a safe, a flat screen TV, a desk and an armchair. Parking on site is possible (35Sfr, reservation required).QF-3, Zähringerstrasse 25, 8Central, tel. + 41 44 256 76 00, fax + 41 44 256 76 01, [email protected], www.hotelbasilea.ch. 55 rooms. JAULW hhh SHERATON ZURICH HOTEL You’ll recognise the signature white framed windows with their irregular shape against the dark facade of the all-new Sheraton tower from afar. Located in the fast developing former industrial district, the Sheraton features spacious rooms (31sqm) with parquet flooring and bathrooms with rain showers. There is a look-through from the bathroom to the bedroom, which can be closed for privacy. From the hotel’s gym you have an energizing view over the whole city, and from your room too, if you’re lucky. In some rooms you can actually sit on the window benches, leaning against the window quite cool. Café bar Nuovo and Swiss restaurant Route TwentySix with specialities from all 26 Swiss cantons on the ground floor.QK-6, Pfingstweidstrasse 100, 8Toni-Areal, tel. +41 44 285 40 00, fax +41 44 285 40 99, info.sheratonzurich@ sheraton.com, www.sheratonzurichhhotel.com. 197 rooms. PHAR6UFLBKW hhhh facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 59 Hotels Directory COMFORT HOTEL ROYAL This hotel offers affordable, rather small non-smoking rooms at a good three-star standard, only five minutes walk away from the main train station and ETH / University. The tram that stops in front of the entrance takes you directly to the airport. The panorama rooms have huge windows and offer a great view towards the Uetliberg, Zurich‘s own little mountain. Smoker‘s lounge. QF-2, Leonhardstrasse 6, 8Haldenegg, tel. +41 44 266 59 59, fax +41 44 266 59 60, [email protected], www.comfortinn.ch. 70 rooms. PJAR6XW hhh PENSIONS FÜR DICH The ‘For You’ pension has 15 tastefully furnished rooms opposite the park Bäckeranlage, just off Langstrasse. The rooms are quite spacious and most of them feature a TV, a lounge table and easy chairs, some even have a balcony. Shower and toilet are shared between three rooms. The café Für Dich downstairs serves breakfast on weekends and is also a good place for a drink. Good for exploring urban Zurich a little away from the centre. QB-2, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. +41 76 583 71 17/+41 43 317 91 60, [email protected], www.fuerdich.ch. 15 rooms. AW AIRPORT HOTELS BEST WESTERN HOTEL AIRPORT Located in Glattbrugg, one of the municipalities surrounding the airport, the Best Western Airport is convenient if you’re doing business in this area. The free shuttle bus takes you to the airport within minutes. The rooms feature a desk, minibar, a safe and a kettle for tea or coffee. The two in-house restaurants are dedicated to Japanese and European cuisine - in the Fujiya of Japan the cooks prepare your teppanyaki meal right at your table. There is ventilation in the rooms but no airconditioning.QOberhauserstrasse 30, Glattbrugg, tel. +41 44 809 47 47, fax +41 44 809 47 74, airport@ welcomehotels.ch, www.hotel-airport.ch. 44 rooms. HAR6LKW hhhh 60 Zurich In Your Pocket DENTISTS Here are the most important consulates you can find in Zurich. The embassies are usually located in Bern, which is the Swiss capital. See www.eda.admin.ch for addresses. SWISS SMILE QD-2, Hauptbahnhof / Shop Ville, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 43 300 30 03, www.swiss -smile.com. CHINA QMythenquai 100, 8Brunaustrasse, tel. +41 44 209 15 00, zurich.china-consulate.org. LANGUAGE SCHOOLS ESTONIA QBergstrasse 52, Stäfa, tel. +41 44 926 88 37, [email protected], www.baltics.ch/konsulat. FRANCE QH-5, Signaustrasse 1, 8Signaustrasse, tel. +41 44 268 85 17, consulat.france.zurich@ swissonline.ch, www.consulatfrance-zurich.org. The old guild house Zur Waag, pride of Münsterhof square. Zurich Tourism (CM) ZUM GUTEN GLÜCK Opened in 2008, this lovely pension offers basic rooms with shared showers and bathrooms and sixties and seventies style furniture. Check-in is at the coffee bar on the ground floor. The next tram stop is close by and the tram takes eight minutes to get to the main train station. Recently new shops and bars have opened in the area, as a major road had been closed to transit traffic. Good choice if you are looking for cheap accommodation.QB-3, Stationsstrasse 7, 8Kalkbreite, tel. +41 43 540 72 99, [email protected],www.zumgutenglueck.ch. 10 rooms. AKW GERMANY QJ-5, Witikonerstrasse 15, 8Klusplatz, tel. +41 44 201 72 22, [email protected], www.honorarkonsul-zuerich.de. ALEMANIA QBadenerstrasse 333, 8Albisriederplatz, tel. +41 44 300 33 44, www.alemania.ch. BÉNÉDICT QC-2, Militärstrasse 106, 8Sihlpost, tel. +41 44 242 12 60, www.benedict.ch. LIMOUSINE SERVICE ALLIANCE LIMOUSINES Qtel. +41 43 499 62 88, www.alliance-limousines.ch. ITALY QD-4, Tödistrasse 65, 8Brandschenkenstrasse, tel. +41 44 286 61 11, [email protected], www.conszurigo.esteri.it. LOST & FOUND RUSSIA QF-4, Oberdorfstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 900 00 08 08 (5Sfr/min.), www.rusconsul.ch. LOST & FOUND (VBZ) QE-3, Werdmühlestrasse 10, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. +41 44 412 25 50. SWEDEN QF-4, Stadelhoferstrasse 40, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 43 343 10 50, [email protected], www.swedenabroad.com. PHARMACIES UNITED STATES OF AMERICA QG-6, Dufourstrasse 101, 8Feldeggstrasse, tel. +41 43 499 29 60, zurich-ca@ state.gov, bern.usembassy.gov. BAHNHOF APOTHEKE QE-2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. +41 44 225 42 42. BELLEVUE APOTHEKE QF-5, Theaterstrasse 14, 8Bellevue, tel. +41 44 266 62 22. ç6": CORONADO The Coronado is a functional three-star hotel close to University Irchel. The rooms all feature dark parquet flooring, a desk and a mini-bar. Doubles either come with two beds or one kingsize one. The tram stops just opposite the hotel and takes you to the centre in around 12 minutes - or straight to the airport in 20. For a relaxing walk Irchel Park lies just opposite the street. QN-4, Schaffhauserstrasse 137, 8Milchbuck, tel. +41 44 360 26 26, fax +41 44 360 26 36, coronado@ welcomehotels.ch, www.hotel-coronado.ch. 40 rooms. PHAR6LW hhh CONSULATES HOSTELS YOUTH HOSTEL This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus (N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great place to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, 8Morgental, tel. +41 43 399 78 00, fax +41 43 399 78 01, [email protected], www.youthostel.ch/zuerich. 76 rooms. Hostelling International membership required: a day’s membership 6Sfr, yearly member card 33Sfr. HAUKW CITY BACKPACKER (HOTEL BIBER) This is the only hostel-style place in the city centre. The six-person dorms consist of three bunk beds, small lockers for your valuables and a sink. Showers and toilets are shared. Latest check-in 22:00 - no exceptions.QF-3, Niederdorfstrasse 5, 8Rathaus, tel. +41 44 251 90 15, [email protected], www.city-backpacker.ch. JA zurich.inyourpocket.com Welcome to Zurich sç $OçYOUçKNOWçWHICHçTICKETçISçIDEALLYçSUITEDçTOçYOURçTRAVELçNEEDSçONç:URICHSçPUBLICç ç TRANSPORTçNETWORK sç $OçYOUçNEEDçINFORMATIONçONçTHEçQUICKESTçWAYçTOçREACHçYOURçDESTINATION &ORçFRIENDLYçPROFESSIONALçANSWERSçTOçALLçYOURçQUESTIONSçABOUTçPUBLICçTRANSPORTçINçANDç AROUNDç:URICHçSPEAKçTOçAçSPECIALISTçATçONEçOFçTHEçCITY@SçNINEç 6":çTICKETçOFlCES WWWVBZCHENTICKETOFlCES facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket April - May 2015 61 to-Lang-W eg eer iwe g He ub as s e str be rg Schreberweg erb erg tr asse sle Fin ric h r str. tr. Ebelstrasse se fst ra s Ho l ik se as Ho fst r Ha Aurorastrass e sse tra tis Rü e lde rli Hö se gweg Wetlistr. Mitta lle r ts Vor d Rankstr. ss e gg stra Feld e e zst r. 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Airbijoux 47 Alden 57 Alice Choo 33 Alpamare 54 Alprausch 45 Ambassador à l'Opéra 57 Arc'teryx Partnerstore 43 Ascot 58 Asiaway 52 Au-Gust 27 Avis 7 Ban Song Thai 19 Bar Basso 24 Basilea 59 Berg und Tal 46 Bernie's Donna 42 Best of Zurich - Zürich City Tour 39 Best Western Hotel Airport 60 Beyer 48 Blaue Ente 20 Bohemia 26 Boutique Roma 42 Cantina la Lupe 25 Caran d'Ache 46 Cheyenne 52 Chinese Garden 38 CHRIST Watches & Jewelry 47 City Backpacker 60 Comfort Hotel Royal 60 Commercio 21 Cooper's Pub 52 Coronado 60 Cranberry 56 Crowne Plaza 58 Cupcake Affair 29 Dante 30 Degussa Goldhandel 47 Die Zukunft 33 Edelweiss Shop 44 Einkaufszentrum Glatt 43 Einsiedeln Abbey 54 Elisaburg 22 Elle'n'Belle 28 Ethnographic Museum 36 Felix am Bellevue 29 FiveSpice 19 Flea Market Kanzlei 37 Flumserberg 54 Four Points by Sheraton Sihlcity 58 Franz Carl Weber 53 Fraumünster 34 Fribourger Fonduestübli 22 Fruit & Veg Markets 37 Fujiya of Japan 23 Für Dich 60 gaymeboys.com online magazine 56 George Bar & Grill 26 Giacometti murals 34 Giesserei 52 Gleis 9 52 Globus 42 Gonzo 33 Grossmünster 34 Gübelin 48 Guess Zurich 44 Hafenkneipe 31 Haifisch 32 Heaven 56 Hive 33 Honold La Confiserie 46 Hottingen 58 Im Viadukt 43 Iroquois 20 IWC Boutique 48 James Joyce 32 Jordi Swiss Icon 48 Kanzlei 33 Kindercity 36, 53 Knies Kinderzoo 54 Kunsthaus 36 Kurz Jewellery and Watches 48 Lake Zurich Cruises 35 Le Cèdre - Bellevue 25 Le Dézaley 22 Le Philosophe 30 Les Halles 24 Lindenhof 35 Lindenhofkeller 20 LOOQ 42 Lumière 21 Madrid 26 Maison Manesse 20 Männerzone 56 Manor 42 Marta 58 Mascotte 33 Max Chocolatier 46 Meng Cutlery 45 Mère Catherine 21 messer-scharf 45 Milchbar 29 Mogli Chinderlade 53 Mohrenkopf 27 Molino 22 Montblanc Zurich 48 Moods 33 Mount Pilatus - high above Lucerne 55 Mövenpick Wein Bar 31 Museum für Gestaltung 37 facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket National Museum 37 Nonam 38 Novotel Zürich City-West 58 Och Sport 44 Odeon 29 Orell Füssli - The Bookshop 43 Oxblood Shoes 44 Paddy Reilly's 32 Partime 48 Pepe Jeans 42 Petra's Tip Top Bar 56 Pizza Pasta Ciao! 53 PKZ Women 42 Pretôt Delikatessen 46 Quai 61 24 Rage 56 Rainbowline 56 RAMADA Hotel Zürich City 59 Razzia 31 Rec Rec 43 Rheinfall - Europe's biggest waterfall 55 Rheinfelder Bierhalle 28 Rosso 22 Rote Fabrik 33 Rubina 27 Safari Bar 31 Schweizer Heimatwerk 45 Schweizerhof 59 Segway City Tours 39 Sheraton Zurich Hotel 59 Sihlpost Sorell Zürichberg Sprüngli Stories of the Old Town Guided walk St. Peter Swiss Casinos Zürich Ta-Bou Talacker Teddy's Souvenir-Shop The Bite The International Thermalbad & Spa Zürich tibits Tres Amigos Uetliberg Vapiano Veltlinerkeller Victorinox Flagship Store Villa & Park Patumbah Vollenweider Chocolatier Confiseur Widder Yooji's Bahnhofstrasse Youth Hostel Zara Zeughauskeller Ziegelhütte Zum Grünen Glas Zum Guten Glück Zurich Zoo Züri rollt - bikes for free 9 59 29 39 39 31 44 32 45 20 30 54 28 52 35 23 28 45 38 46 57 23 60 43 28 52 24 60 53 7 FEATURES INDEX Adult entertainment Breakfast Casino Decoding the menu Cheese restaurants Lake Zurich Language smarts Live music Markets Meet Joyce, Lenin & Co More for less with the ZürichCARD Smart phoning Spring cycling tour Swiss cuisine Tax free shopping Thermal baths Tourist service Useful Zurich apps Watches & Jewellery 32 29 31 26 22 35 9 33 37 38 36 9 13 24 48 54 10 8 47 April - May 2015 65 Stadt Zürich | Zurich City E f B rd S Sc sc no her Hä er n tu Hö ch w hi he pa eg us ou r m f f r- W r k ng üt z ba er lli g en S5 u yss M Hö Fr ha 32 ic n ie -P us S6 he g dh la F ör ls ge o t z r li S f t r. r b bu 7 As e S ck S1 rg Tr A l t Bl ph be ch st ot e 6 A u E fe m ol z m r. r g aue te g u sch 61 l d s e n Bö n37 t w er Ke t r. 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