Times - Cellini

HOTEL WALDORF-ASTORIA
301 PARK AVENUE
212-751-9824
509 MADISON AVENUE
AT 53RD STREET
212-888-0505
800-CELLINI
NEW YORK, NY 10022
www.CelliniJewelers.com
Brilliant diamonds from
our exclusive collection
COLLECTIONS
16 A. LANGE & SÖHNE
revels in complexity with two
high complications in its Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.
20 AUDEMARS PIGUET celebrates 40 years of the Royal
Oak revolution with an anniversary collection led by its Extra-Thin
Royal Oak Tourbillon.
24 BELL & ROSS clears the “whirlwind” for take-off in its aviation
collection with the BR Minuteur Tourbillon.
26 BULGARI taps into the ancient power of a sinuous symbol to fuel the
inspiration behind its Serpenti Jewelry Watch Collection.
30 CARTIER amplifies its horological repertoire with the Rotonde de Cartier
Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon.
38 CHOPARD races ahead of the pack in its pursuit of cutting-edge accuracy
with the high-frequency escapement found in its L.U.C 8HF.
48 DE BETHUNE takes its place at the forefront of high watchmaking with one of
the lightest and fastest tourbillons in the DB 28 ST.
52 DEWITT unveils the third concept watch crafted at its manufacture with a
reversible design it calls the X-Watch.
54 GIRARD-PERREGAUX honors its deeply ingrained tradition of innovation and precision with the 1966 Minute Repeater.
56 H. MOSER & CIE. creates the first automatic movement at its
Schaffhausen manufacture to power the Meridian – Dual Time.
58 HYT realizes its unique vision of hydro-mechanical watchmaking
by using liquid to expresses time with its H1.
60 IWC keeps its head in the clouds with a class of new recruits
that includes the Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Miramar.
62 JAEGER-LECOULTRE harnesses the precision of its
advanced “dual-wing” concept to power the Duomètre à
Sphérotourbillon.
74 LUDOVIC BALLOUARD raises the curtain on an
unconventional performance that cannot be missed with
the Half Time.
COLLECTIONS
76 PARMIGIANI FLEURIER strikes a balance between
classical and modern watchmaking with its Tonda Retrograde
Annual Calendar.
80 PIAGET combines its expertise of ultra-slim movements
with its eye for timeless style in the Piaget Polo FortyFive.
84 RICHARD MILLE produces a clear vision of watchmaking with
the sapphire crystal case of the RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire.
88 ROGER DUBUIS explores the intrepid side of the firm’s personality with the daring Pulsion Flying Tourbillon Skeleton.
92 ULYSSE NARDIN evokes both its past and future with the innovative
movement powering the Marine Chronometer Manufacture.
96 VACHERON CONSTANTIN demonstrates its mastery of form and function with the Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon.
100 ZENITH shows off a new “altitude” with an aviation-inspired collection led by
the Pilot Montre d’Aeronef Type 20.
FEaTurES
8 CELLINI JEWELERS
Cellini Jewelers’ dedication to superior selection
and service remains as timeless as the watches and jewelry in its
incredible collection.
42 LIFESTYLE
Just as a fine timepiece celebrates time, highperformance audio equipment elevates music from the simple to the
sublime. Explore the deep connection between timekeepers and
sound makers.
66 CULINARY CAMEOS
Temptation awaits as we serve up
our opinions on where to enjoy the city’s best lobster rolls,
cupcakes and burgers.
104 CLOCKWISE
A glossary of horological terms
On the COver X marks the spot. To celebrate 10 years of Status
magazine, we’ve given the clock overlooking 42nd Street at Grand
Central Terminal a new face.
EDITOR IN CHIEF
mIChaEL grazIaDEI
ART DIRECTOR, PHOTO DIRECTOR
SamaNTha hICkEy
MANAGING EDITOR
SCOTT hICkEy
COPy EDITOR
raChEL yOuNg
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
amy COhEN
ELIzabETh DOErr
JaCk FOrSTEr
kEN kESSLEr
ELISE NuSSbaum
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
DavID kaTz
bJörg magNEa
FOR A COMPLIMENTARy SUBSCRIPTION OR
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, PLEASE CALL
8OO.CELLINI
VISIT OUR NEWLy REDESIGNED WEBSITE AT
www.CelliniJewelers.com
STATUS is an annual publication by Cellini Jewelers
Copyright ©2012
Reproduction without permission is prohibited
on oUr Watch
w
elcome to the 10-year anniversary of Status
magazine. During the last 10 years we have
witnessed significant advancements in the
world of horology. The rise of groundbreaking materials
and new digital production techniques has unlocked
fresh possibilities and cleared a path to even greater
feats of mechanical and visual originality. What remains
unchanged, however, is the quality and craftsmanship
represented by these extraordinary works of art.
Before we enter our second decade, I wanted to take
this opportunity to say that is has been a pleasure sharing with you Cellini’s passion for the world’s most exceptional watches. Our tradition continues this year as
we invite you to once again explore with us the new
styles and unique timepieces that are available today.
For temptation of a different kind, dig into Culinary
Cameos, where we spotlight “Small Pleasures Big Flavors”
with a round-up of the best lobster rolls, cupcakes and
hamburgers in New York City. We also explore the surprisingly large amount of common ground shared by
high-end audio and mechanical watchmaking in “Rock
Around the Clock.”
We hope you enjoy this issue and look forward to
seeing you again next year. If you would like more information about the brands or any of the timepieces in this
issue, please call us at 800-CELLINI or email us at
[email protected]. Look for the online version
of Status in the Catalogs & Publications section of our
website at www.CelliniJewelers.com.
Michael Graziadei
Editor in Chief
Madison Avenue Boutique
Hotel Waldorf-Astoria
CELLINI JEwELErS
freedom
T
of choice
imes have certainly changed. Today, enthusiasts
Between its locations in the Hotel Waldorf-Astoria and
have instant access to information and images
on Madison Avenue, Cellini has the ability to satisfy
from every watch company imaginable, demo
nearly every request. “It’s rare that someone asks for a
videos of the latest models posted on YouTube and
watch we don’t have in stock,” Adams explains. “People
online communities where likevalue the immediacy of being able
When CELLINI JEwELErS to find what they want, when they
minded obsessives congregate
to ruminate about their favorite
OPENED its first boutique want it.”
brands.
What the company does best,
35
yEarS
agO,
choices
Those dramatic changes
perhaps, is use the range of its colwere LImITED for people lection to help someone find the
extend to the consumer as
well, who now has more options
who ENJOyED mEChaN- right watch. “If you like a particufor buying a high-end timepiece
ICaL TImEPIECES. It was lar style — whether it’s a chronothan ever before. Along with ingraph or an ultra-thin dress watch
a ChaLLENgE just to find — we can line up 20 different moddependently owned boutiques
like Cellini, the retail landscape
NEwS about the LaTEST els from different brands so you
also includes national chains,
watches, much less FIND can see what options are out there,
single-brand stores, and online
and judge for yourself how a watch
a PLaCE to actually SEE looks and feels on your wrist.”
outlets.
them IN PErSON.
With so many options, why
It’s impossible to get that kind
still choose Cellini?
of brand-versus-brand comparison
Because, Cellini President
at a store dedicated to a single
Leon Adams says, some things
watchmaker. And, as Adams points
will never change, like an apout, a branded boutique will
preciation for superior senaturally promote its
lection and service. That’s
watches over all others.
why Cellini’s personable
“Our opinions have been
and knowledgeable speshaped by our expercialists continue to ofiences handling so many
fer one of the most exbrands for so long,”
tensive collections of
he says. “People have
fine timepieces from 25
learned to trust our adof the world’s finest
vice because we strive to
watchmakers.
be accurate and objective.
It’s an important reason why
people come back to us again
INFOrmED OPINION
and again.”
That incredible depth is
what separates Cellini, and allows it to deliver an unparalH1 in titanium coated entirely in
leled experience for collectors.
black DLC by HYT
8
DEEP rOOTS
After opening in 1977, Cellini has come of age alongside the modern
watch industry. In the late ’70s and early ’80s, the popularity of
mass-market quartz watches came at the expense of companies
producing mechanical wristwatches. As a result, Cellini
emerged as one of the few places in America where it was
still possible to find the handiwork of such historic firms as
Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre
and IWC.
Cellini’s Madison Avenue boutique debuted in 1987,
just as the mechanical watch’s popularity began to
soar. Both stores became known as places to see not
only the best-known brands, but also up-and-coming
independent firms. Over the years, the impressive list
of rising watchmakers that found an early home at
Cellini has grown to include A. Lange & Söhne,
De Bethune, DeWitt, Franck Muller, Hublot, Ludovic
Ballouard, Maîtres du Temps, Parmigiani, Richard Mille
and Roger Dubuis.
“
Extra-Thin Royal Oak
Tourbillon in rose gold
by Audemars Piguet
PEOPLE vaLuE ThE
ImmEDIaCy OF bEINg abLE
TO FIND whaT ThEy waNT,
whEN ThEy waNT IT.
”
Even today, Cellini’s role as
an influential tastemaker
continues as it welcomes
two more brands. The first is
Bulgari, an Italian company renowned for its innovative designs
for more than a century. One of its most
famous creations is the Serpenti Jewelry Watch
Collection. Cellini offers a full range of these serpentshaped bracelet watches for women, many decorated
with precious gems. The second addition to Cellini’s
collection is HYT, a Swiss firm acclaimed for its
groundbreaking debut, the H1. A bold mix of fluid
dynamics and high horology, this watch is the
first in the world to display the hour with a liquid
indicator.
The constant evolution of its collection has
endeared Cellini to a generation of watch enthusiasts, who are always searching for something new
and exciting. “Our biggest strength,” Adams says,
“has always been our ability to change with the
times.” ¨
Serpenti Jewelry with diamond bracelet in white gold by Bulgari
9
CELLINI JEwELErS
StaYinG on time
Close-up of Chopard’s
L.U.C 01-06-L movement
If you OwN a mEChaNICaL waTCh, you already know that it needs to be SErvICED rEguLarLy to optimize its PErFOrmaNCE. And while many owners view maINTENaNCE as a burden, it doesn’t have to be. Think of this TuNE uP not as a NECESSITy, but an OPPOrTuNITy.
I
t’s a great idea to have the watch detailed while the movement is being
cleaned and re-oiled, says Stephen J.
Gindi, a watch expert and manager of
Cellini’s Waldorf-Astoria boutique. “People can’t believe the difference when they
get it back,” he says. “It’s like the watch is
new again.”
A thorough cleaning rejuvenates the
case’s luster, but why stop there? Replace
a strap if it’s more than a year old. Or,
consider having the case and bracelet
polished, a process that is more intensive
than a regular cleaning. The results are
stunning. But keep in mind, experts recommend that a watch should only be polished four to five times over its lifetime
to avoid damaging the metal.
10
LOOkINg FOr SIgNaLS
Watch firms typically recommend that a mechanical watch be serviced
every four years. It’s sound advice, but certainly not a hard-and-fast
rule. Instead, let your watch’s performance be the deciding factor. Look
for two warning signs that your watch needs servicing.
First, when the lubricant begins to thicken, it gradually impacts
the winding. If the watch is wound manually, you’ll notice more resistance when turning the crown. In an automatic watch, the rotor slows,
which prevents normal physical activity from fully charging the power reserve.
Second, viscous oil diminishes accuracy. Even when operating at
peak performance, a mechanical timepiece loses a few minutes every
month. While the amount of deviation varies from watch to watch, it
remains consistent for each individual timepiece. That is to say, a
watch that loses two minutes a month is likely to repeat that pattern.
A significant deviation from this regular performance signals the need
for servicing. As a general guideline, an overhaul is recommended
when a watch begins to lose more than five minutes a month.
It’s also worth noting that in
recent years, several brands have
introduced watches with balances
and escapements made from silicium, a material that requires no
lubrication. Even so, this does not
exempt the watch from normal
maintenance. Until a firm produces a watch where every component
is made from silicium, all watches
eventually need servicing.
maINTaININg PErFOrmaNCE
The only way to guarantee the quality of the servicing is by taking the
watch to an authorized dealer. The
importance of this cannot be overstated. First, an authorized dealer
stands behind the work by providing a warranty for the servicing that usually lasts a year.
Second, a tune up often entails replacement parts — anything from screws to jewel pivots. Using an authorized
dealer ensures that those parts are made by the watch
brand and meet the company’s exacting specifications.
A few weeks after a watch is submitted for service,
an estimate is issued for the
work. Prices vary greatly and
are based on the complexity
of the watch’s movement. The
same is true for determining
how long the servicing will take to complete. A simple
movement requires a minimum of two months. Oftentimes, a complicated movement must be serviced at the
brand’s European workshop, a process that takes approximately six months. Patience is key, as it is impossible to rush this kind of meticulous work.
Watchmaker at A. Lange & Söhne
avOIDINg rISk
Can you damage a watch by delaying an overhaul? Yes,
but probably not in the way you’d expect. Eventually,
the lubricant will thicken to a point where the watch
stops working. The longer you put it off, the more expensive it will be to return the watch to working order.
The larger risk is that the
rubber gaskets protecting the
movement from water will
crack and allow moisture
inside the case. As a result,
gears can rust and the movement can seize. Repairing
this kind of the preventable damage is costly and timeconsuming.
Taking care of a watch is an important responsibility. But if you treat your watch well, it will last a
lifetime. ¨
IF yOu TrEaT yOur
waTCh wELL, IT
wILL LaST a LIFETImE.
Even balances and escapements made using advanced materials
like the DIAMonSIL found in Ulysse Nardin’s Calibre UN-118
require periodic servicing.
Watchmaker at DeWitt
11
CELLINI JEwELErS
Garden of
SparklinG
deliGhtS
INSPIraTION begins at
CELLINI JEwELErS,
where handcrafted
PErFECTION
mEETS natural
bEauTy.
A
mong the finest independent jewelers in New York City, Cellini has
charmed visitors from around the
world for 35 years with unrivaled selection,
sublime quality and impeccable service.
That success is a testament to the close attention the company gives to its clients, says Cristina
Andrews, manager of Cellini’s Madison Avenue boutique. “It sounds simple,” she says, “but to make people
happy, you need to first understand what it is that they
want. People appreciate that we take the time to listen.
It’s why so many clients come back.”
To complement its passion for personalized service, Cellini maintains a high standard of quality
throughout its collection, which is constantly evolving. “We’re always adding
rare and unique pieces from our travels,”
Andrews says. “We also have the experience to identify innovative designs quickly,
which is how Cellini stays ahead of trends.”
For those who favor a particular gem, Cellini
covers the full spectrum. Its boutique windows
twinkle with everything from diamonds of all different
shapes, sizes and colors to Burmese rubies and Kashmir
sapphires — rare gemstones prized for their dramatic
hues. Handmade settings amplify the natural beauty of
all these precious wonders, whether your desired effect
is elegance, audacity or something in between.
Above: Emerald and diamond necklace with a double row of 25 oval-shaped emeralds totaling nearly 60 carats.
12
“
CELLINI haS ThE
ExPErIENCE TO
IDENTIFy INNOLeft: Drop earrings with more
vaTIvE DESIgNS
than 11 carats of rose-cut fancy
quICkLy, whICh
yellow diamonds.
IS hOw wE STay
ahEaD OF
COLOr mE ImPrESSED
TrENDS.
Cellini added bold splashes of color
to its collection this year as it welcomed
several vibrant new pieces.
Among the standouts is a dramatic
emerald and diamond necklace. The oval-cut
emeralds total an impressive 59.43 carats,
but the color is what really sets this piece
apart, says Cellini’s jewelry buyer Claudette
Levy. “The greens are gorgeous. And, it’s not
often that you see emeralds so well-matched in a
necklace this size,” she says. Like all of Cellini’s jewelry, this classic design
is crafted according to the highest standards, ensuring both its comfort
and strength.
Another bright spot in this colorful display is a pair of earrings
with rose-cut fancy yellow diamonds outlined by a row of round white
diamonds. Levy says the inverted teardrop shape accentuates the face
nicely. “The curves really follow the natural contours and draw attention to your features,” she says. “Anyone can wear these because
the yellow diamonds go well with any skin tone or hair color.”
Cellini introduces a colorful twist to its South Sea Pearl
bangle collection by adding either rubies, sapphires or emeralds. “The rich, natural shade of each gemstone looks crisp
against the white diamond rondelles and 18-karat white gold
setting,” Levy says.
”
Diamond and sapphire
tassel necklace featuring
a stunning 8.93-carat
heart-shaped sapphire.
FrIENDLy aDvICE
Choosing jewelry is truly a personal process. To assist you,
Cellini’s friendly experts are there should you need advice for
anything from planning the perfect surprise to choosing a
special gift for an engagement or anniversary.
It is that personalized touch, as
much as its considerable
collection, that has
made Cellini Jewelers
a legend in New York
City for 35 years. ¨
Stackable South Sea pearl bangles featuring emeralds, rubies and sapphires, accented with diamonds in 18-karat gold.
13
CELLINI JEwELErS
StYle
that
Won’t
w
QUit
wOrk
Mix these flexible
diamond bangles
to add a chic
twist to your
casual Friday
wardrobe.
PLay
Match to accentuate different looks:
classic sophistication with white gold,
or relaxed elegance with rose gold.
hen you fall in love with a new piece of jewelry, you imagine how many different outfits it will go with, not how it
will look sitting in a jewelry box. If you love jewelry,
the point is to wear it, not store it.
One of the biggest challenges to maximizing wearability is finding pieces that dazzle during office hours and
after hours, says certified gemologist Lauren
Goldsmith of Cellini Jewelers. She says to
choose jewelry like you choose clothes. “You
wOrk
have killer dresses in your closet, but you
Add a funky twist to a tailored
don’t wear them every day. Most of the time,
pantsuit with a statement ring
you rely on wardrobe basics,” she explains.
that combines Baroque South Sea
“You need jewelry basics too — simple,
pearls, multi-colored sapphires
elegant pieces that are versatile.”
and green tsavorites.
Whether it’s making an impact with a
PLay
funky cocktail ring or introducing the subLeave your other jewelry at home. This convertle flash of a diamond bracelet,
sation-starter is strong enough to work alone.
Goldsmith suggests jewelry
that adds glamour to an outfit
without overpowering it. “The
perfect piece will dress up your
favorite sweater and jeans, but
it will also add some drama to
that little black dress.” She
adds: “Your jewelry should
wOrk
be able to change as much
Control or unleash the fiery iridescence
as you do.”
of these exquisite opals by letting your
Looking for jewelhair down or pulling it back.
ry that works around
the clock? Here are six
PLay
essentials from Cellini’s
Pair these opals with anything. The colors
collection with style that
dance and change constantly to complewon’t quit. ¨
ment whatever shade you’re wearing.
14
wOrk
Add a vibrant shock of color
to your neutral outfits with
the natural intensity of these
pear-shaped yellow diamonds.
PLay
Drop earrings strike a balance
between demure and daring that
makes them the perfect accessory.
wOrk
“
mOST OF ThE
TImE, yOu rELy
ON warDrObE
baSICS. yOu
NEED JEwELry
baSICS TOO —
SImPLE, ELEgaNT
PIECES ThaT
arE vErSaTILE.
wOrk
Dress up jeans and a button-down
with this pendant necklace. Its mix
of yellow, rose and white gold walks
the line between formal and casual.
PLay
Double-up the chain and transform this necklace into a dazzling
choker that draws attention to
your dress’ neckline.
”
Conceal this cuff bracelet under a
blazer and tantalize with glimpses
of diamonds and rose-gold mesh.
PLay
Bare your arms and let this piece
steal the show. Keep the look focused
by skipping the watch and wearing
rings on the opposite hand.
15
a. LaNgE & SöhNE
reachinG neW
By
SCOTT hICkEy
a. LaNgE aND SöhNE has earned DEvOTION from aFICIONaDOS and aCCOLaDES from
PEErS since it returned to watchmaking almost 20 yEarS agO. Then as now, much of the
praise focuses on the German firm’s DEDICaTION to PrECISION — an essential part of its
SaxON hErITagE — and its willingness to ChaLLENgE the CONvENTIONS of both
vISuaL and mEChaNICaL DESIgN.
a
mong the timepieces Lange produces at its workshops in
Glashütte, no other has embodied
the firm’s dynamic vision for as long as
the Lange 1. A charter member of the
company’s comeback collection in
1994, the Lange 1 features a
distinctive offset time display and large date. What
started as the face of
Lange, over time, has
become one of the
most recognizable
timepieces in high
watchmaking.
Th r o u g h t h e
years, the design’s
flexibility has proven
to be one of its most
powerful assets, shifting slightly to accommodate various functions
without altering the integrity of
its identity. Since debuting, the Lange
1 has hosted tourbillons, moon phases
and calendar displays, but never all three
in one model. That changes with the
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar.
It is the latest and most complicated
member of the Lange 1 family, an achievement that represents the culmination of
more than a decade of development.
The Lange name is undoubtedly familiar to those who appreciate
not just the complexity of a perpetual movement, but also functional
design that enhances the experience of owning one.
The firm’s reputation for this intricate calendar complication
began in 2001, making its distinguished entrance with the Langematik Perpetual.
It was the first watch ever to feature a calendar with displays
that can be adjusted individually or simultaneously. The
timesaving value of this
feature is clear to anyone
who has accidently allowed the mainspring to unwind and faced resetting
the various calendar indications individually.
The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar’s
movement combines this
friendly functionality with a
stop-seconds tourbillon. This
system, invented and patented by
Lange, temporarily interrupts the balance’s progress so that the time may be set to the
correct second. To this already impressive legacy of innovation, the
Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar adds a new rotating calendar
display, which has been registered for patent protection. An arrow at
the bottom of the dial indicates the month on a nearby ring that turns
at a precisely calculated pace around the edge of the dial.
The Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is cased in platinum
and limited to 100 pieces worldwide.
Inset: For this calendar display, Lange uses a retrograde day, its signature large date window and introduces its innovative design for a rotating ring for the months. The latter’s arrow-shaped indicator doubles as the leap year display.
16
heiGhtS
A paragon of precision, the Lange 1
Tourbillon Perpetual
Calendar includes a
moon phase display
that will remain
accurate after more
than a century of
continuous use.
17
A. Lange & Söhne
From left:
Slightly smaller and
thinner than the
original, the redesigned
Grand Lange 1 still
projects an august
demeanor at 40.9mm.
To enhance readability,
the time and small
seconds no longer
overlap.
The new Lange 1 Time
Zone in white gold
incorporates luminous
hands and markers. A
pusher simultaneously
advances the city ring
by one time zone and
local time by one hour.
BIG TIME
As it welcomes the latest addition to the Lange 1 family, the firm also reveals a fresh take on
another longtime favorite from the collection with the Grand Lange 1. Redesigned both inside and out, the various changes complement one another nicely.
It begins with the compact movement Lange developed especially for this watch. As a
result, the firm reduced the size of the previous case to 40.9, shedding 1mm in width and
more than 2mm in height. While technically smaller, the new case maintains the Grand Lange
1’s stately manner by using its new, lower profile to emphasize its balanced design.
To enhance readability, Lange recalibrated the dial’s proportions. It started by separating the once-overlapping indexes used for the minutes/hours and seconds, and then optimized the sizes of the power reserve and date indicators. Lange offers three versions of this
harmonious arrangement, one in platinum, and the others in rose or yellow gold.
Embracing Evolution
Part of what defines Lange is its belief in the notion that there is always room for improvement. That steadfast pursuit of design perfection extends to even its most successful models,
like the Lange 1 Time Zone.
To enhance this watch’s already-impressive functionality, Lange has created the first version of the Time Zone with luminous hands and markers, a practical upgrade available exclusively in a white gold case.
What remains unchanged is the appeal of this dual time zone watch’s intuitive design,
which repurposes the Lange 1 dial by using the small index for the local time and the main
index for the home time.
Lange puts 24 of the world’s time zones at your fingertips with two buttons. One rotates
the ring encircling the dial to select a new destination city while advancing the local time by
one hour. The other button switches the displays, moving the local time to the main dial and
keeping the day/night indicators synchronized.
18
That dedication to enhancing performance extends to the beloved Datograph.
Introduced in 1999, the original earned accolades for its movement, a columnwheel chronograph designed and produced exclusively by Lange. Years later, it is
ranked among the finest modern examples of this coveted complication.
Rather than tinker too much with a classic, the Datograph Up/Down gives
people more of what they already love by expanding the platinum case to 41mm
and extending the original’s power reserve by a full day. The increased diameter
made it possible to upgrade to a larger mainspring, one that stores 60 hours when
fully wound. This longer lifespan is also linked to the Datograph’s “Up/Down” designation, which refers to the changing direction of the arrow used for the power
reserve indicator at the bottom of the dial.
SAXON UNIFICATION
Last year, Lange introduced a new design code for its entire Saxonia line that created a unified look for the collection. This new aesthetic extends even further this
year with the latest version of the Saxonia Thin.
One could hardly find a better example of the Saxonia style than this watch.
Introduced last year, its 40mm case stays true to its moniker with a lateral profile
that measures less than 6mm. After debuting in rose gold, Lange now offers a
white gold version.
Also new to the collection is a version of the Saxonia Automatic that is the
first self-winding Saxonia crafted especially for women. To conjure the watch’s irrepressible feminine personality, Lange frames a gleaming mother-of-pearl dial
with a diamond-set bezel that outlines the case’s 37mm diameter.
The Saxonia Automatic, like all of Lange’s watches, vividly demonstrates the
company’s ability to balance its competing desires to both honor watchmaking
history and also write its next chapter. ¨
From left:
The Datograph Up/Down
takes its name from the
rotating arrow at the bottom
of the dial, which is used to
measure the 60 hours of
reserve power that can be
stored in the mainspring.
The first self-winding Saxonia
crafted especially for women,
the Saxonia Automatic’s
37mm, diamond-set case is
presented in white, yellow or
rose gold.
The Saxonia Thin’s case —
now available in white gold —
measures less than 6mm thick.
Its baton markers and long
hands are emblematic of the
Saxonia’s clean design.
19
auDEmarS PIguET
With a stainless steel case
that is less than 9mm thick, the
Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon is
among the thinnest tourbillon models.
croWninG
SCOTT hICkEy
achievement
By
auDEmarS PIguET played the role of a PrOPhETIC rEbEL in 1972, presaging the FuTurE of mODErN waTChmakINg while ushering it into
existence with the introduction of the rOyaL Oak, the world’s FIrST
Luxury SPOrTS waTCh. Even 40 yEarS LaTEr, it is still too soon to
understand the TruE ImPaCT made by this NOw-ICONIC TImEPIECE.
“IT
has turned 40, but has it
come of age? I don’t think so.
To me, the Royal Oak will always
remain a revolution,” says Leon Adams, who opened
Cellini Jewelers in 1977 and has always carried the Royal Oak
and Audemars Piguet in his boutiques.
Oh whaT a NIghT
Nothing fuels creativity like an impossible deadline. If it does not grind you into dust,
the intense pressure can — just as in nature — produce a diamond of lasting beauty. Such
was the process that shaped the Royal Oak.
As the story goes, legendary designer Gérald Genta was given one night — rather than
weeks — to design an unprecedented stainless steel watch that would be presented the next
day to Audemars Piguet managers in Switzerland and Italy.
As he worked, Genta’s mind wandered back to his youth in Geneva as the memory of a
diver emerging from the Rhône River came rushing back. That image — specifically the eight
bolts and rubber seal used to secure the glass to the diver’s helmet — supplied the divine spark
of inspiration he’d been seeking.
He sketched quickly, making tangible the “diving helmet” watch that he saw so vividly in his
mind’s eye. The design included all of the signature elements that would come to define the
Royal Oak: octagonal bezel secured with eight hexagonal screws to an ultra-thin case, “tapestry”
guilloché motif on the dial, and the first-ever integrated bracelet with graduating links.
When the sun rose the next morning, it dawned on a new age in watchmaking.
rarEFIED rOyaLS
To pay homage to this crowning achievement, Audemars Piguet celebrates the Royal Oak’s anniversary with several new models
crafted at its manufacture in Le Brassus, Switzerland.
If a single timepiece was selected to be the anniversary’s emissary, one could hardly do better than
the Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon.
21
auDEmarS PIguET
The system to which the watch owes its name is one of the 137-year-old firm’s
specialties. First used in pocket watches, the tourbillon improves chronometric
precision by protecting the escapement from gravity. In 1986, Audemars Piguet
transplanted this mechanism into a wristwatch and was the first to serially produce such a timepiece.
The Extra-Thin Royal Oak Tourbillon’s clear caseback shows off a newly designed manually wound movement that is among the thinnest of its
kind. The slim design underscores the manufacture’s extensive experience in this particular watchmaking arena and results in a case that is
less than 9mm thick, a remarkable achievement for a watch that includes
such an intricate complication.
The tourbillon can be seen through an opening on the blue dial,
which is decorated with the Royal Oak’s instantly recognizable petite
tapisserie pattern. The watch’s 41mm case is presented in either rose
gold or stainless steel with a matching
bracelet.
The anniversary collection spotlights a
different complication with the Royal Oak
Chronograph. Introduced into the collection
in 1986, the chronograph function is a logical extension of the Royal Oak’s character,
one that strongly reinforces its status as
the first luxury sports watch.
Its automatic movement uses a gold
oscillating weight to wind its 40-hour
power reserve, which supplies energy to
the chronograph, date and time-keeping
functions.
For this occasion, Audemars Piguet
chose to create a new, larger case for the
Royal Oak Chronograph, expanding its
diameter to 41mm to bring it in line with
preferences expressed by modern enthusiasts. In contrast, the dial design
represents a throwback to the ’72 Oak,
which used a double-baton marker at
the twelve o’clock position in lieu of
the “AP” logo found on today’s models.
In fact, all anniversary watches share
this same flourish of vintage styling.
From top: The functionality of the 41mm rose gold Royal Oak Chronograph is
harmoniously in tune with the sporty character that has defined the Royal Oak
collection for 40 years.
The Royal Oak Self-Winding offers a contemporary expression of the original that
features the grande tapisserie motif on its dial and a larger (41mm) case in either
stainless steel or rose gold.
Nearly identical to the 1972 original designed by Gérald Genta, the Extra-Thin Royal
Oak embodies the spirit that launched a revolution in watchmaking.
22
CLaSSIC, CONTEmPOrary aND CharmINg
With two automatic versions of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet stakes out opposite places in time.
The Extra-Thin Royal Oak faithfully recreates the original with a 39mm
stainless steel case and matching bracelet, octagonal bezel with white gold hexagonal screws and blue dial decorated with petite tapisserie. Even the ultra-thin
automatic movement (Calibre 2121) is a modern version of the one found in the
first model.
The primary deviation from the original is the date display. Instead of
traditional white, it is tinted to match the dial. In fact, this blue date was to
be used in the original, but was eventually scrapped due to the painstaking
process required to match the dial and date disc.
The Royal Oak Self-Winding offers essentially the same functionality, but
projects a more modern vision of this iconic timepiece. At 41mm, its case —
available in stainless steel or rose gold — is larger than the original. Making good
use of the additional space, the watch includes an automatic movement that handles the same functions (time and date) but offers a larger power reserve (60 hours)
and a higher frequency (3 Hz). Complementing its technical changes, the watch also
diverges from the past aesthetically, decorating the dial with the grande tapisserie.
Audemars Piguet also invites female watch connoisseurs to the anniversary celebration with the Ladies Royal Oak Self-Winding. Powered by the same movement
used in the aforementioned Royal Oak Self-Winding, the ladies’ version provides identical functions and power reserve, but in a smaller (37mm) case that is available in
either stainless steel or rose gold. For those who crave glamour, Audemars Piguet offers
a gem-set model with a row of 40 white brilliant diamonds lining the Royal Oak’s signature octagonal bezel.
EarLy TO ThE ParTy
It would be remiss to overlook the Skeleton Royal Oak Self-Winding, which was
released in 2011 and therefore technically not part of the official 40th Anniversary Collection.
Beautifully rendered and technically superior skeleton movements have
been an Audemars Piguet specialty since 1934, when the manufacture introduced the first skeletonized pocket watch. The Skeleton Royal Oak Self-Winding confidently upholds this tradition, exhibiting the sure-handed craftsmanship and artistic vision needed to distill a movement to its essence.
While the absence of a traditional dial allows a spectacularly intimate view of the movement, this style can pose a challenge when trying
to read the time. Aware of this pitfall, Audemars Piguet chose to coat the
hands and markers with luminous material, a decision that assures legibility
day or night.
The Skeleton Royal Oak Self-Winding along with the anniversary collection
brings into sharp focus just how far the Royal Oak revolution has come. Perhaps
even more important, it demonstrates how much further it has yet to go. ¨
From top: This 37mm stainless steel version of the Ladies Royal Oak Self-Winding
includes a row of 40 diamonds on its signature octagonal bezel.
A pioneer in skeletonized movements, Audemars Piguet evokes this rich heritage with
the stainless steel Skeleton Royal Oak Self-Winding.
23
bELL & rOSS
Y
K
S
E
h
T
n
W
o
By
kEN kESSLEr
Think bELL & rOSS and
you picture mILITarIa,
pilots’ watches and
vINTagE STyLINg.
As far as the “amPErSaND braND” is concerned, you should
ThINk COmPLICaTIONS too.
a
lthough technically
not a complication
since it doesn’t perform an additional function
like date or GMT, the tourbillon
is grouped with complications
because it is outré enough to
warrant haute horlogerie status.
It was devised to compensate for
gravity’s effect on pocket watches,
but modern watchmakers have found that
it can also increase a wristwatch’s accuracy.
Bell & Ross is among the brands drawn to
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s 200-year-old invention, but the results are unlike those from makers who typically offer tourbillons in a classic
context. Not so for Bell & Ross. This company
creates über-macho pilot watches, so the homes
for its tourbillons are suitably stealthy, robust
and functional. With the BR Minuteur Tourbillon,
Bell & Ross respects the house’s aviator traditions,
while incorporating that most coveted of movement
types.
Before you even notice the tourbillon in the lower
right-hand sector, you recognize the watch as a Bell &
Ross creation. Its 44x50mm case exudes strength and
purpose as its carbon fiber dial maintains absolute
24
The BR Minuteur
Tourbillon’s
stealthy look
includes a carbon
fiber dial and a
titanium case
blackened with
diamond-like
carbon.
legibility while accommodating three other complications: a flyback chronograph, power reserve indicator and small seconds.
The BR Minuteur Tourbillon is a limited edition
that includes 30 pieces each in rose gold or titanium treated with diamond-like carbon (DLC).
Below: The BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne’s skull motif evokes a rich
history of symbolism that includes everything from Hamlet
and pirates to the military.
PErFECTLy SINISTEr
Bell & Ross adopts the skull and crossbones — a
favorite talisman of air squadrons around the world
— for its BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne, giving the
piece an edgy, rock ’n’ roll feel.
It is housed in the familiar BR 01 square case, a
design that has become a modern watchmaking
icon in a surprisingly short time. Powered by a
manually wound movement, the watch features a
tourbillon carriage finished with black gold. The
regulator layout provides a separate minute hand
at the center and an hour hand in the twelve o’clock
position. Finished in black DLC, the BR 01 Tourbillon Airborne is perfectly sinister, not to mention
entirely exclusive, with only 20 pieces worldwide.
ELEvaTED rEaDINgS
Almost conventional at first glance, the BR 01 Instrument
Tourbillon is anything but. Closer examination reveals a
tourbillon married to Bell & Ross’ signature look, which
evokes the control panel of an aircraft from the pre-digital
era. Framed by a square titanium case, the round carbon fiber dial shows the tourbillon in all of its glory
thanks to the space provided by the regulator layout.
The dial also boasts a 120-hour power reserve indicator at the nine o’clock position, as well as the
company’s “trust” meter at three o’clock. This unique
Bell & Ross function indicates the accuracy of the movement in accordance with the tension on the barrels.
With this tourbillon trio, Bell & Ross emphasizes
the range of its ability through a savvy combination
of instrument-grade watchmaking and extreme complexity. Now the sporting connoisseur can savor the
best of both worlds. ¨
Left: Bell & Ross combines haute horlogerie achievement with
aviation-inspired design for the BR 01 Instrument Tourbillon.
25
buLgarI
For this rose gold Serpenti,
Bulgari’s master gem-setters use
diamonds, pink sapphires and
amethysts for the scales and lapis
lazuli for the eyes.
rOmE’S
Golden
SNakE CharmEr
SymbOLIzINg the FOuNTaIN
of yOuTh and supernatural wisdom, the SErPENT can be found
as an INTEgraL FIgurE in aNCIENT CIvILIzaTIONS since the
beginning of time. For buLgarI,
the EmbLEmaTIC POwEr of
this SINuOuS CrEaTurE was
the SOurCE OF INSPIraTION
for one of the Italian firm’s mOST
ICONIC waTChES.
T
he serpent was a constant motif in jewelry, as both a decoration
and a mystical charm to ward off bad luck. That changed in the
Middle Ages, when depictions were eclipsed by superstitions
that it was a symbol of evil. During the mid-19th century, in the
wake of the Enlightenment, the serpent returned to jewelry design
as bracelets and necklaces. These formerly forbidden fruits proved
irresistible to a new generation of bold women, one attracted by a
heady combination of the creature’s natural beauty and the thrill of
defying convention.
Those daring women found a kindred spirit in Bulgari. The firm
obliged, creating enameled serpents that were popular during the Art
Nouveau movement. Later, it continued to lead the revival of the
ancient reptile motif by transforming it into a decorative timepiece for
the first time. Undoubtedly, the legendary symbol played a vital role
as Bulgari rose to become the pre-eminent jeweler of the 20th
century. Even today, 128 years after the company was established in Rome, the serpent continues to appear in its most
striking creations.
A modern version of
the Serpenti wraps around
a vintage sketch of the watch
design from Bulgari’s archive.
27
Bulgari
Sinuous Innovation
Above: Alternating segments of pavé-set
diamonds and black onyx form the scales of
this rose gold Serpenti, which features a
black sapphire dial with diamond markers.
Below: Bulgari’s trademark Tubogas bracelet,
shown here in stainless steel, is designed to
embrace the wrist both comfortably and
securely.
Bulgari’s first bracelet watches were created in a wide range of styles
that highlighted the use of unusual material combinations, particularly with cases and dials. Early designs in the 1940s were closely
linked to the use of Bulgari’s signature Tubogas, an innovative
bracelet design that could be wrapped around a woman’s wrist
in a way that resembled a snake. To further emphasize the serpentine form, the bracelet was paired with a shaped case that
evoked a serpent’s head. Inside the cases were original, custommade movements from several of the world’s finest watchmakers.
For years, the names of manufactures like Audemars Piguet,
Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin appeared alongside
Bulgari’s logo.
In the 1960s, Bulgari began producing its iconic bracelet watches in a more lifelike style, evoking a decorative tradition linked to
ancient Rome, where the serpent bracelet was a fashionable ornament worn frequently during the first century.
The famous serpent bracelet-watch that Elizabeth Taylor wore
while filming Cleopatra in 1962 is a perfect example of this contemporary rendition. The serpent’s head on her watch was set with pavé diamonds, pear-shaped emerald eyes, and embellished with a crest composed of marquise-shaped diamonds. The body of the snake was
fastened together with an elaborately woven gold band that
created a natural interpretation of a snake. Consequently,
numerous variations of this realistic approach were
produced during the years that followed, including
brilliantly colored combinations of turquoise, polychrome enamels, cabochon rubies, white diamond, and
other precious pear-shaped stones set to accent the
serpent’s eyes.
These increasingly popular designs were coveted by trendsetters worldwide who flocked to have
these bejeweled timepieces adorn their wrists. Vogue
editor Diana Vreeland, considered by many to be the
queen of fashion in the 1970s, once wrote: “Don’t
forget the serpent… The serpent should be on
every finger and on all wrists and everywhere… The serpent is the motif of Horus
in jewelry. We cannot see enough of them…”
Scaling Artistry
A master of the sophisticated know-how
needed to create these bracelet-watches
since the 1950s, Bulgari continues to build upon
this rich heritage today with modern interpretations that use the latest techniques to convey
the reptile theme in new and exciting ways.
Over the years, Bulgari has explored a number of subtle and delicate variations in constructing the serpent bracelet-watch, from transforming the
distinctive design of the iconic Tubogas bracelet to
combining the precious metal body with gemstones,
diamonds and enamel to create a truly realistic serpentine form.
In the 1960s, the reptile scales were
handmade from sheets of gold and
gold pivots, or screwed together in
enamel versions. A white-gold
spring inside was the secret behind each bracelet’s extraordinary flexibility. The hinged
serpent’s head concealed the
watch, opening to reveal the
hidden dial. Today, the innovative design continues to evolve in order to maintain the suppleness of the
bracelet, as well as the timepiece’s beauty.
This expertise in craftsmanship is evident in
the rose gold bracelet-watch from the 2012 Bulgari
Serpenti Jewelry Watch Collection. Handcrafted according
to traditional goldsmith techniques and inspired by Bulgari’s heritage
and know-how, the result is two coils of precious metal wrapped twice around
the wrist with enamel scales set with diamonds. The rose
gold links are individually crafted by hand and set with
385 brilliant-cut diamonds before the cold enamel is
applied. A tiny handcrafted hinge fastens each scale
together before the bracelet is fitted with a white
gold spring that enables each timepiece to
smoothly slide over the wrist. The reptile headshaped case houses a Swiss quartz movement
specifically personalized for Bulgari. Six brilliant-cut diamonds frame the dial and its 12
diamond hour markers.
Heirs to Bulgari’s rich legacy, these
remarkable timepieces are more than just
poetic expressions of the firm’s intense creativity and technical excellence. Each one taps
into the primal power that has fueled the serpent’s symbolism for centuries to create a timeless icon of contemporary watchmaking. ¨
From top: This white gold model shimmers with a diamond-set bracelet that culminates in a shaped case
with a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond indexes.
Clusters of brilliant-cut diamonds adorn the black
enamel scales of this rose gold Serpenti, one of the latest
additions to the collection. Bulgari also offers this model
with ivory-white enamel scales and a mother-of-pearl dial
(not shown).
29
Cartier
The gongs and hammers in the
Rotonde de Cartier Minute Repeater
Flying Tourbillon were engineered to
produce optimum sound quality when
chiming the time.
30
command
performance
By
SCOTT hICkEy
raThEr than accept centuries of CONvENTIONaL
horological wISDOm as gospel, CarTIEr prefers to
take NOThINg FOr graNTED. Instead, it DECONSTruCTS the waTChmakINg PrOCESS altogether, rEbuILDINg it from the grOuND uP to create NEw ExEmPLarS that take full advantage of mODErN wayS
without losing sight of the brand’s rICh TraDITIONS.
T
hat spirit of independence
defines the manufacture’s
a p p r o a c h t o i t s Fi n e
Watchmaking Collection, and
has led it to such groundbreaking creations as the
Astrotourbillon and Astrorégulateur. Building on that
success this year, Cartier
puts its indelible stamp on
the minute repeater, a high
complication that can only
be produced by the skilled
and patient hands of a few
master watchmakers.
SINg OuT LOuD
Naturally, sound quality is the
paramount concern for all repeating
timepieces, and historically the most
challenging to achieve. For the Rotonde
de Cartier Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, the firm refined this centuries-old
complication by optimizing the watch’s
acoustic properties.
To do this, it re-engineered the movement to improve sound transmission and
used a case with low mass and a wide diameter to amplify the volume produced
by the repeater gongs. As a result of this
configuration, the titanium version of
this watch generates approximately 68
decibels, which is roughly equivalent to
the sound level of someone practicing the
piano normally.
The power and beauty of the sound is
matched by the mechanical performance
used to create it. In the aperture positioned at six o’clock, two hammers face
in opposite directions and are separated by a centrifugal governor
that regulates the tempo at
which the hammers strike the
hours, quarters and minutes.
This particular system is
significantly quieter than an
anchor-style regulator, which
audibly buzzes while the
gongs “sing” the time.
The method used to
summon a command performance from the repeater
represents another break
from tradition. Cartier replaces
the conventional slide on the
side of the case with a button.
When pushed, it winds a secondary mainspring dedicated exclusively to
powering the repeater before unleashing its
power to strike up the band.
rEvErSE ENgINEErINg
The repeater may outrank the tourbillon in the horological hierarchy,
but it’s by no means an afterthought in the Rotonde de Cartier Minute
Repeater Flying Tourbillon. Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most famous
invention — unencumbered by the constraints imposed by traditional
bridges — appears to “fly” as it spins to protect the balance and
escapement from gravity’s distorting pull.
31
CarTIEr
Flying tourbillons have become something of a fixation for Cartier of late and can
be found in many of its most recognizable
models — from the Ballon Bleu and Tank
Américaine to the Pasha and Santos 100. The
flock continues to grow this year with the
Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon,
which represents a tremendous combination
of technical audacity and visual poetry.
Beginning with the aesthetics, the dial’s
angles and curves play with light and shadow in a way that heightens the dramatic effect of the celestial design, which is evocative of the Earth passing in front of the Moon.
Carved to form seven Roman numerals, a
crescent-shaped sliver slopes inward at different angles — much like the seating of an
amphitheater — to embrace the chapter ring,
which surrounds exposed sections of the
movement.
The Rotonde de Cartier Reversed Tourbillon’s dial is
sloped like an amphitheater to shine a spotlight on
its inverted movement.
The rose gold Rotonde de Cartier Flying Tourbillon’s
signature complication is topped with a C-shaped
cage that serves as a seconds hand.
32
What’s contained within this circle is the
technical achievement for which the watch is
named. The movement is transposed so that what
you see from the front is actually the back of
the mechanism. Instead of relegating the flying
tourbillon to the flipside of the watch, Cartier
redesigned it, essentially reversing it so that it
faces forward.
The tourbillon wings its way home to its traditional perch at six o’clock for the Rotonde de
Cartier Flying Tourbillon. Certified with the Geneva Seal for its finishing and performance, the
manual-winding movement exhibits both of
these qualities, particularly the tourbillon. Its
C-shaped cage doubles as a small seconds hand
as it rotates below the blued minute and hour
hands.
Cartier equals the movement‘s technical
pedigree with the artistry used to craft the dial.
The layered motif reflects the decorative style
found throughout the Fine Watchmaking Collection and includes an open-worked ring of Roman
numerals floating atop waves of guilloché.
COuNTINg ThE DayS
What makes this particular design so fascinating is its boundless flexibility. Much like a tailored navy blue suit, this quintessential style is timeless and can be dressed up or down to fit the occasion.
Case in point, the design looks good on the relatively basic layout
of the Flying Tourbillon, but it can also accommodate the multiple
displays required for the Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar.
Here, the guilloché blooms at the center of the dial like the petals of a flower, forming a delicate visual anchor. Just beyond the
edge of this circular centerpiece, the dial opens to reveal the
days of the week, which are shown on the layer recessed below
and indicated by a red-tipped, hammer-shaped hand. A matching hand travels a wider orbit around a similar channel that
runs along the dial’s outer edge, where it indicates the month.
A large date window located above the central hour and
minute hands completes the annual calendar’s duties. Unlike
basic calendar watches that require date adjustments for the
five months out of the year that are shorter than 31 days, this
watch automatically compensates for
the varying lengths of the months. The
lone exception is February, which
requires a manual adjustment annually, hence the term annual calendar.
Cartier takes this complication to its ultimate conclusion
with the Rotonde de Cartier
Perpetual Calendar. Produced
i n - h o u s e by C a r t i e r, t h e
watch’s automatic movement is a sophisticated
mechanical counting machine that accurately
calculates the lengths
of all the months, including February. The
caliber’s complex gearing even accounts for the
quadrennial leap year.
The Fine Watchmaking
Collection’s distinctive design code once again proves its
versatility, providing all of this
information in a way that is both
elegant and legible. A trio of
hammer-shaped hands conveys
the essentials: days of the week, date
and month. The subdial for the latter
serves a dual purpose and includes a
small secondary hand to indicate the
leap year.
Above: Two red-tipped hands
indicate the day and month
in the Rotonde de Cartier
Annual Calendar.
Left: The Rotonde de Cartier
Perpetual Calendar’s clean dial
design makes it easy to read all of
the calendar indications.
33
CarTIEr
Left: The Grand Complication Skeleton
Pocket Watch’s beautifully exposed
movement includes a perpetual
calendar, chronograph and tourbillon.
Below: Cartier continues to show
off its gift for creating open-worked
movements with the Santos
Dumont Skeleton.
CuTTINg-EDgE aNaChrONISm
The perpetual calendar makes another appearance this year, but in an
entirely different context. Cartier pairs it with a chronograph in a manual-winding movement regulated by a tourbillon mechanism for its
Grand Complication Skeleton Pocket Watch.
It is a timepiece that lives in two worlds, a beautiful contradiction
that projects a vintage style that could only be realized in the modern
age. Too precious for everyday but too precocious to hide away, it occupies the nexus between objet d’art and horological masterwork.
The movement, made in-house by Cartier, is comprised of more
than 450 parts, each finished by hand. Many of these can be observed,
either from the front through the dial’s revealing design, or from the
back through the clear caseback.
Perched atop the 59mm white gold case, a beaded crown winds the movement’s eight-day power reserve, and also serves as a pusher to start, stop and
re-set the chronograph. A clasp fitted around the base of the crown is used to
connect the watch to either a white gold watch chain, or a free-standing display made of rock crystal and obsidian.
Cartier will produce only 10 pieces of its Grand Complication Skeleton
Pocket Watch, 5 of which will be set with diamonds.
The skeletonized Roman numerals that encircle the Grand Complication’s
dial serve as a magnificent leitmotif throughout the Fine Watchmaking Collection. That includes the Santos Dumont line, where it has appeared in cases
made of white gold as well as titanium coated with black Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon (ALDC). To those light and dark extremes, Cartier adds the
warm glow of the new rose gold Santos Dumont Skeleton.
The rose gold is well suited to the masculine, square-shouldered design,
which measures approximately 39 x 47mm. The metal’s rich luminosity nicely
complements the cool blue sapphire cabochon set on the crown.
34
rOLLINg INTO ThE FuTurE
Cartier’s Tank watch is near the top of the short-list of iconic watches. First designed in
1917, Louis Cartier is said to have based his design on the shape of an Allied tank viewed
from above. Since its debut, the Tank has inspired several stylistic variations, all of which
have hewn closely to the firm’s approach to design, which could be described as the ability to consistently say more with less.
Cartier continues that tradition of simple sophistication with the new Tank
Anglaise collection. Its case boasts new proportions that thread the needle between
square and rectangle. Even so, the form easily integrates key Tank hallmarks like the
railroad track-style chapter ring that runs alongside the Roman numerals.
The line includes three sizes, which are available in rose, white or yellow gold.
Among the highlights is a small white gold model with a diamond-set bezel and a
quartz movement. The medium and large versions are both powered by caliber
1904 MC, an automatic movement produced in-house by Cartier.
Cartier revisits its iconic Tank design to create the new
Tank Anglaise collection. Offered in three sizes, the
smallest model is powered by a quartz movement while
the other two feature automatic movements crafted
by Cartier.
35
CarTIEr
DImENSION OF rEFINEmENT
Today, the clean lines of the Tank stand as a timeless reminder of one of the
maison’s earliest horological successes, one born during the initial rise of the wristwatch. A development, it’s worth noting, that Cartier helped launch in 1904 by
famously attaching a watch case to a leather strap for the Brazilian aviator Alberto
Santos-Dumont.
It was just over a century later, in 2007, that Cartier introduced the Ballon
Bleu, a model destined to become not only one of the company’s most popular, but
also a classic of modern watchmaking.
Cartier expands the Ballon Bleu collection
this year with a model that measures 33mm in
diameter, a size that favors the more understated proportions common among vintage
dress watches.
The dimension is new, but the style remains classic Ballon Bleu, from the Roman
numerals to the rounded guard protecting the
fluted crown and its blue sapphire cabochon.
Standouts from this new harvest include
rose and white gold models that can be
decorated with diamond-set bezels.
Offered for the first time in
a 33mm case, this new version
of the popular Ballon Bleu retains
its trademark crown, which is
topped with a scintillating blue
sapphire cabochon.
36
ThrEE-ParT harmONy
As you would expect from a legendary jeweler, diamonds are used to great effect. The
fiery facets add shimmering dimensions to three new ladies’ models from the Cartier
Libre collection.
The Tank Folle combines Cartier’s gem-setting expertise with its tradition for
crafting beautiful and originally shaped cases. The firm says the new model’s
fluid lines — which measure approximately 29 X 34mm — are descended from
the Crash watch it unveiled during the 1960s. Nevertheless, the Tank Folle is
undoubtedly heir to the Tank’s genetic code, identified by its sunburst dial and
railroad-track style chapter ring. This diamond-set model will be produced in
a limited edition of 200 pieces.
Another classic Cartier shape gets a
remarkable makeover with the Baignoire
Folle. The trademark vertical oval case
retains its majestic countenance in
white gold, but the satin-finished dial
exhibits more than a touch of whimsy
with a chapter ring that curls around
in a sublimely chaotic spiral. White
brilliants frame openings on the
dial and are complemented by
a double-row of diamonds on
the bezel.
The Temps Moderne
plays the final note in this
triplet of sparkling timepieces.
Its white gold round case — which
is nearly 43mm in diameter — features diamonds on the bezel and lugs.
These lustrous gemstones are also
used on the overlapping circles that
cover the iridescent dial, which is
made from Tahitian mother-of-pearl.
The time display is tucked discreetly
within a gear-shaped circle near the top
of the dial.
With this year’s offerings, Cartier
demonstrates its range, confidently scaling new summits in high watchmaking with its Flying Tourbillon Minute Repeater, while staying true to
its deep roots with the new Tank Anglaise and a bevy of beguiling jewelry
watches. ¨
Cartier expands its Libre collection with the Tank Folle, Baignoire Folle and Temps
Moderne, a trio of diamond-set models for ladies that underscores the firm’s reputation as a world-class jeweler.
37
Chopard
With a groundbreaking
balance that oscillates
57,600 times per hour,
the L.U.C 8HF is Chopard’s
latest bid to make the
world’s most accurate
mechanical watch.
38
faSt
track
By
JaCk FOrSTEr
u
ChOParD’S extensive line of SuPErbLy ENgINEErED and exquisitely finished IN-hOuSE
mOvEmENTS — prefixed L.u.C in honor of
the company’s FOuNDEr LOuIS uLySSE
ChOParD — are considered some of the
hIghEST quaLITy made aNywhErE in
Switzerland, or for that matter, ThE wOrLD.
nder the guidance of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard continues to take a leadership role in both horological research and in the assurance of continued high standards in watchmaking.
To achieve the latter, Chopard participates in the Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF),
an independent group based in the village of Fleurier, Switzerland that is dedicated to
establishing standards for watchmakers. To be certified, a watch much pass a
battery of strenuous tests that meet — and in some cases exceed — the requirements of the prestigious Geneva Seal. The FQF tests for accuracy (all FQFcertified watches must be chronometer certified by COSC) and durability
through what is called the “Chronofiable” test. Finally, a watch must pass
an accuracy test that simulates actual use on the wrist.
The Geneva Seal (or poinçon de Genève) is both a symbol of quality and a statement of provenance. It specifies certain minimum
standards in construction, adjustment and performance. Administration of the Geneva Seal, as with FQF, is through an independent third party. As the Geneva Seal can’t be awarded to watches made outside Geneva, the FQF offers the assurance of
independent evaluation of quality in finish, construction and
performance to watches made anywhere in Switzerland.
The most recent manifestation of Chopard’s dedication
to the pursuit of excellence in cutting-edge accuracy has
been its years-long research into making watches
with what are known as high-frequency or
fast-beat escapements. The most recent
and intriguing fruit of this research
is its new L.U.C 8HF, which runs
at 8 hertz, or 57,600 vibrations per hour (vph).
39
ChOParD
quEST FOr aCCuraCy
From top: With its orbital moon
phase display and perpetual
calendar, the Lunar One is a
model of the heavens you can
wear on your wrist.
The orbital moon phase display of
the Lunar Twin is accurate to one
day in 122 years, with a dynamic
dial composition that gives a new
twist to this classic complication.
Inside every watch is a balance wheel that swings back and forth like a
child being pushed on a swing. The energy from the mainspring provides
the push, and, just as gravity tries to bring the swing to rest, the spiral
balance spring counteracts the pulse of energy from the mainspring.
The beauty of the system is that, like gravity and the swing, the
balance spring always pulls the balance wheel back to its rest
position with force exactly proportional to how hard it’s pushed.
This means that for any given watch, there is a natural frequency
— a specific number of ticks per second that never varies.
This is what makes a mechanical watch accurate. But, there’s
much that can upset accuracy. Any physical disturbance whose frequency is close to that of the balance and spring system can do so. One
solution to this problem is to make the system run at a higher frequency.
By way of example, quartz watches are accurate because the crystals inside
them vibrate tens of thousands of times per second. Mechanical watches
typically run at frequencies between 21,500 and 28,800 vibrations per hour.
It’s impossible for a mechanical watch to match the frequency of quartz.
Even so, watchmakers have experimented with high-frequency escapements
for decades, chasing the possibility for vastly increased accuracy. Despite its
promise, until recently, there have been few successes. The challenge is two-fold.
A watch that runs at a fast rate also experiences greater wear and faster deterioration of movement lubricant. Secondly, exceeding 36,000 vph is made nearly
impossible by the inertia of the conventional steel moving parts in the watch.
bETTEr, LIghTEr, FaSTEr
Enter silicon and Chopard’s L.U.C 8HF watch. It is one of the new breed of watches using escapement components made from silicon, a material that is one-third
less dense than steel, unaffected by magnetism, can be fabricated to micron tolerances, and does not require lubricant.
Silicon makes it possible for the L.U.C 8HF to run at a jaw-dropping 57,600
vph, which means the balance wheel completes eight full oscillations in one second. What’s more, the movement is a certified chronometer and offers an incredible 60-hour power reserve, an unheard of amount in a watch beating at such
a fast pace. The L.U.C 8HF is offered in a titanium case, but look for the technology to appear in other L.U.C watches as Chopard has designed the fast-beat
escapement so that it’s compatible with most other L.U.C movements.
mOONSTruCk
All complications have some romance to them (why else love
them?), but perhaps the easiest to love is the moon phase complication. Chopard has two beautiful renderings of this delightfully
accessible complication.
The most complex, the L.U.C Lunar One, was launched to great
acclaim in 2005 and has been redesigned this year. With its round, rose
gold, stepped-bezel case, it is a study in just how creatively watchmaking
can manifest itself, even within a classical idiom. The self-winding movement
includes a perpetual calendar that automatically shows the correct day, date
and month, even during leap years. It is also equipped with an orbital moon
phase display, so-called for its rotation around the axis of the seconds hand.
The L.U.C Lunar Twin is a straight shot of lunar beauty. Its classically
round white gold case features a time and date dial with the moon phase
display near the one o’clock position. Both the L.U.C Lunar One and
the L.U.C Lunar Twin feature a highly accurate moon phase display.
Conventional moon phase watches accumulate an error of one day
within a couple of years. In sharp contrast, both of these timepieces
remain accurate to within one day after 122 years.
CLEaN, LEaN maChINE
The Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2012 is the latest sports
chronograph from Chopard to commemorate its ongoing partnership with the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique. The titanium and
rose gold model introduced this year is limited to 500 pieces. With its
COSC-certified chronograph movement, tachymetric bezel, blue markers
and rally-style calfskin strap, it’s an homage to both uncluttered formfollows-function design, and the pure joy of high performance.
bEauTy FrOm ThE INSIDE OuT
Chopard extends its dual talents for beautiful design and mechanical distinction to its ladies’ watches as well. The Imperiale Chrono is no wallflower.
With a diameter of 40mm, this is a statement watch that says its owner knows
style and watchmaking in equal measure. Its mechanical chronograph movement and stainless steel case give it a purposeful instrumentality that underscores, rather than competes with, its boldly feminine profile.
A second member of the collection, the Imperiale is an evening star
that is set with diamonds on the bezel and amethysts on the lugs and crown.
Chopard says the purple color of the gemstone is a reference to Byzantine
Roman emperors, whose clothes were colored using the famous “Tyrian
purple” dye. Extracted from sea snails, it was so rare and expensive that its
use was restricted to the royal family. According to legend, a child born to
the ruling emperor was said to
be porphyrogenitos, or “born in
the purple,” making the color
an apt choice for a watch with
an imperial name. ¨
Above: The limited edition Grand
Prix de Monaco Historique Chronograph 2012 in titanium and rose
gold is a timeless homage to the
history of one of motorsport’s most
prestigious events.
From left: The 36mm
Imperiale’s majestic name
matches its regal appointments, with a diamond
bezel and royal purple
amethysts on the
case and crown.
For the woman who
knows beauty is more
than skin deep,
Chopard’s Imperiale
Chrono is a timepiece with
a beating mechanical heart.
41
Lifestyle
By
kEN kESSLEr
The SaTISFyINg TICk of a mechanical
waTCh’S ESCaPEmENT at wOrk. The
PrImaL ThrILL of a bass Drum’S
ImPaCT. On paper, they are wOrLDS
aParT. And yet the way they SOuND and
how they make us FEEL reveal the DEEP
CONNECTION shared by TImE and TONE.
I
f you savor your finest wines in Zalto glasses, sign
your checks with a Montegrappa pen, and view
the America’s Cup through Swarovski binoculars,
then why not treat your ears with the same respect?
The sound of the world’s finest audio components,
once experienced, will force you to treat plastic iPod
docks the way you regard plastic watches.
Everyone understands what a watch does, and
what the finest watches represent. On a base level, a
watch merely tells the time. A superior timepiece celebrates it. So, too, do state-of-the-art hi-fi components exceed the basic function of merely extracting
music from a CD, LP or digital file. The analogy is appropriate: iPod docks and car stereos make sounds.
“Proper” hi-fi components make music.
Elusive to many are the qualities that distinguish a superior sound system from a mere boom
box, but it’s not rocket science. Any feeling of insecurity upon entering a hi-fi emporium will be recognized as the same sensation experienced by those
who feel that they don’t know or “understand” a wine
list. But the taste buds do not lie, and neither do
one’s ears. The sole purpose of a specialty sound system is to make recordings sound real, as if the musicians were in the room: no distortion, no coloration
to make the sound you hear seem artificial. It should
always be remembered that the term “high fidelity”
means “faithful to the original sound.”
Clearaudio’s handcrafted Champion Wood turntable
uses a tonearm made of satine wood to enhance the
sound’s warmth.
aroUnd the clock
rock
43
LIFESTyLE
muSICaL maChINES
What many watch connoisseurs may not
know is that mechanical wristwatches
have more in common with purist audio
components than such disparate objects
might seem to possess at first glance. Every watch lover knows of the car/watch
connection. Both are machines, both appeal to the same senses. But, so do highend audio components. They have been
called many things over the years in the
audio community: “purist,” “extreme”
or “specialty.” But a recent term might
say more to non-audiophiles: “highperformance components.”
It is not a conceit: the sole raison
d’être of cost-no-object components, designed without size or material limitations, is to deliver sound quality simply
not offered by the mass-market hardware
produced by giant multi-nationals. Designers of high-end audio equipment
think like the great watch designers, who
live to extract even greater accuracy and
dependability from timepieces developed
without constraint.
Just as the most inventive car engineers exhibit similarities to watch designers, their hi-fi counterparts seem cut
from the same cloth. And all are “boys’
toys” aficionados. Joe Grado, who patented the moving-coil phono cartridge in the
1950s, whose company produces superb
headphones, and who just celebrated his
88th birthday, began as a master watchmaker. Top loudspeaker designer KarlHeinz Fink collects watches and cameras.
The late Julian Vereker of Naim audio was
a competition-level driver who adored
Minis and collected big sport watches.
From top: This gem is Nagra’s SNST-R
mini-recorder, beloved of spies and ordered
for the CIA by JFK. Its footprint is only
5¾"x4"x1".
Nagra’s 300i is an integrated amplifier
that uses the 300B tube, an audiophile’s
favorite that dates from 1937; its case is
machined from aluminum.
44
CONvENTION OF TaSTE
Just as the watch industry welcomes the
trade to the Salon International de la Haute
Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva every January, and Baselworld in the spring, the
high-end audio community gathers every
January at the Consumer Electronics
Show (CES) in Las Vegas. CES 2012 was
rife with watches of note. Easy to spot
were an IWC Big Pilot or two, a couple of
Portuguesers, a rose gold Portofino, a
Franck Muller Master Banker, an early
Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo,” a period Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and a
Geographique, a Cartier Roadster, a cluster of Royal Oaks, a Girard-Perregaux
Traveler II, and a Roger Dubuis with a
hand-painted “Samurai” dial on the wrist
of a European audio distributor.
Conversely, tourbillon wizard Christophe Claret, De Bethune’s David Zanetta,
Bremont Technical Director Peter Roberts, and many others in the watch kingdom harbor a love of music that won’t
be satisfied by an iPod dock. Dig deeper
into the Swiss character, and you find
that they apply the same standards to
manufacturing hi-fi equipment that they
employ in watchmaking.
Nagra’s VPA Monoblock Power Amplifier — you need two for stereo — uses
another classic tube adored by high-end enthusiasts, the 845. Each VPA
delivers 50 watts. Note the company’s signature touch, the Modulometer
in the front panel.
SwISS SOuND
Switzerland has its own high-end audio industry, one that dates back
to the birth of specialty audio equipment in the late 1940s and into the
1950s, with the invention of the stereo LP. Early milestones included
Thorens’ and EMT’s fabled turntables, while Revox and Stellavox are
remembered for sublime open-reel tape decks. But the most important
audio brand of Swiss origin is Nagra, best known for security devices,
professional equipment, and other hardware not immediately associated with hi-fi.
Celebrating its 60th anniversary in 2012, Nagra, more than any
other, has an affinity with watchmaking due to the miniaturization
present in its most famous product, the SN tape recorder — beloved of
the CIA and other intelligence bodies. It is a marvel of engineering, an
open-reel tape recorder that fits in the palm of one’s hand. Its role in
recording everything from loquacious Mafiosi to indiscreet politicians
is the stuff of legend. Its tape recorders are so distinctive that they
appear in the very films they record, if there’s a need to show a recording device for serious eavesdropping.
Swiss to the core, one of Nagra’s factories actually faces Cartier’s
atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds; others are in Cheseaux, Geneva, and
Nyon. News journalists and on-location
movie soundtrack engineers alike swear
by Nagra’s seemingly-unbreakable portable tape recorders, which first appeared
around 1951 and were present on a Swiss
attempt to climb Mt. Everest, as well as
on the Trieste with Jacques Piccard as he
descended to the deepest part of the
Earth’s oceans.
For 15 years, Nagra has produced
equipment for domestic hi-fi users, including tube and solid-state amplifiers,
CD players and digital converters. Naturally, the sound quality is superlative.
But for Nagra — like most other high-end
manufacturers — that is not enough.
What completes their worth as objects
for connoisseurs is the kind of astonishing build-quality familiar to anyone who
has ever handled a fine wristwatch.
45
LIFESTyLE
hOrOLOgICaL INSPIraTION
That intense attention to detail lives on through a number of younger
companies operating in the same tradition. Firms like Geneva-based
darTZeel, is so utterly Swiss that its amplifiers feature custom-made screws
to hold the panels together. Their compatriots include Soulution, Da Vinci
Audio, the recently revived EMT, Thorens, Daniel Hertz, Goldmund, and
others. In every instance, the resemblance to Swiss watchmaking standards
is unmistakable.
Among those outside of Switzerland who are guided by the standards of
Swiss watchmaking is Dan D’Agostino, who founded Krell and now heads a
Connecticut-based company bearing his name. D’Agostino has been a watch
collector for decades, having owned Franck Mullers, IWCs and others. His
appreciation for watches is reflected in the first D’Agostino products.
His initial offering, the Momentum amplifier, sports a power meter inspired
by classic Breguet aesthetics, including a “Breguet-style” hand. The chassis is
machined from solid aluminum, with heat sinks made from solid copper billets.
The metalwork matches the precise fit of a watch case. The difference is that his
amplifier measures 5"x12.5"x21" (HWD) and weighs 90 pounds.
English manufacturer SME produces some of the world’s finest tonearms and turntables. It was founded by Alastair Robertson-Aikman, an engineer who won the Meccano International Model Building Competition at age
12. He took inspiration from his Rolex DateJust, a watch he considered to be
a magnificent example of precision engineering in a serial-production object. As a side note, a watchmaker-cum-audiophile of my acquaintance
recently returned the compliment by saying SME’s build quality equals the
best that Switzerland can produce.
makINg a bEauTIFuL SOuND
It sounds great, but how does it look? You can banish any thoughts of identikit, knob-festooned boxes with laboratory styling that lowers the aesthetic
perfection of your living space. Modern high-end equipment now looks and
feels as good as it sounds. For evidence, you need look no further than Wilson Audio’s $200,000 XLF loudspeakers with automotive paint finishes; the
exquisite electronics made by Porsche-enthusiast Dieter Burmester in Germany whose sound equipment can be ordered with your Panamera or Cayenne; T+A’s satin-finished tube amplifiers; the $100,000-plus turntable from
Continuum; and the jaw-droppingly gorgeous loudspeakers from Sonus
Faber in Italy.
High-end audio is one of the best-kept secrets in the world of the luxury
lifestyle. It shouldn’t be, especially among those who appreciate beauty,
elegance and authenticity. A magnificent audio system, and not a mere iPod
dock, should provide the sounds that accompany the long, lingering sip of a
60-year-old Scotch, or the cloud of a Partagas. Nietzsche noted that, “Without
music, life would be a mistake.” In the presence of a superior sound system,
such a mistake is forever banished. ¨
Clockwise from top left: SME Model 30/2 turntable/Series V arm; darTZeel NHB458 amplifier; T+A V10 amplifier; Wilson Audio XLF speaker; D’Agostino Audio
Momentum stereo amplifier; Burmester 909 Mk5 amplifier; Sonus Faber Guarneri
speaker; Continuum turntable (center).
46
DE bEThuNE
the real
ideal
C
By
ELISE NuSSbaum
rafted to the highest standard of exIn the DECaDE since DavID zaNETTa and DENIS
cellence and designed to spotlight a
FLagEOLLET started DE bEThuNE, the hOrOtourbillon, the DB 28 ST is nonetheLOgICaL ExPErT and gIFTED waTChmakEr
less simple in the only way that counts — no
have propelled the INDEPENDENT FIrm to
single element is remotely superfluous.
the FOrEFrONT of high watchmaking using
The mirror-polished titanium case adds an
extra
layer of protection for its contents with a
rEvOLuTIONary mEThODS within hISframework that supports a platinum bezel. The dial
TOrICaL CONTExTS. In fact, the company
is constructed on several levels, building on the
has already produced 12 mOvEmENTS
movement’s hand-finished suspension bridges to reIN-hOuSE, an astounding number for
veal the piece’s beating heart. Immediately inside the
bezel,
a sterling silver ring lays out the hours and minsuch a yOuNg COmPaNy. With its latutes in a format notable for its clarity.
est creations, De Bethune builds upon
These flourishes serve to frame and enhance the DB 28
this rEmarkabLE aChIEvEmENT.
ST’s main attraction, a tourbillon that whirls constantly to
elude gravity. It is constructed with silicon and titanium, a
combination that enables this tourbillon to be the fastest and
lightest one available, its 64 components weighing a mere 0.18g.
The tourbillon rotates once every 30 seconds, keeping double time
compared to the 60-second journey completed by the centrally
mounted jumping seconds.
What makes this mechanism even more impressive is that it is a
“dead seconds” tourbillon. Difficult to produce, but easy to spot, a watch
equipped with this uncommon technical flourish features a seconds hand
that ticks forward and stops “dead” for each second. In contrast, the seconds hand found on most mechanical timepieces move forward in tiny increments, making it a challenge to take a precise time measurement.
Facing page: The tourbillon
Hand-decorated elements adorn its manually wound movement, which
with 30-second indication is
plays host to several technical innovations patented by De Bethune. Many are
the star of De Bethune’s DB
characteristic of their new models, including the triple “pare-chute” shock28 ST, which builds a multiabsorbing system, the self-regulating twin barrel and a balance wheel made with
layered dial upon a founsilicon and platinum. Its unusually high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour
dation of hand-finished
allows the movement to maintain a high level of chronometric precision.
suspension bridges.
48
49
DE bEThuNE
bIrD OF PLay
To celebrate the manufacture’s 10-year
anniversary, De Bethune unwraps an
unforgettable gift: the DB 27 collection. Its first member is the DB 27
Titan Hawk. Housed within a
43mm titanium case, the piece
plays with familiar shapes and
indications to create something that calls upon tradition
but still feels fresh and bold.
The blued steel hour and
minute hands create volume,
paradoxically, by being hollowed out. Behind them, another blued steel pointer draws
attention with its not-quiteconical shape. Turning above the
silver-toned “microlight” dial, it
serves as a central date indication,
using its tip to show the current date
on a ring of Arabic numerals.
The Titan Hawk is powered by Calibre S233, which is named for the specific
gravity of silicon and incorporates the
chemical element into its balance and
escape wheels. The watch’s solid titanium
caseback includes an opening that allows a
view of the balance wheel as it rotates back
and forth. The case is equipped with De Bethune’s
patented floating lugs, which not only evoke the flying
buttresses of Gothic architecture, but also move with
the wearer’s wrist to ensure ultimate comfort.
CELESTIaL EquILIbrIum
Though the calendar watch is exceedingly useful, the
amount of information it must convey can occasionally clutter the dial. With its DB 25 QP Perpetual
Calendar, De Bethune elegantly sidesteps this difficulty with an eminently readable design, using a symmetrical layout that captures the essential equilibrium
of the heavens.
The hours are marked off by Roman numerals and delineations on the hand-guilloché silver-toned dial. Small
windows present the day and month, while a date dial graces, but does not disrupt, the flowing lines of the dial’s lower
half. The watch’s visual centerpiece is a starry sky that incorporates a leap-year indicator and a patented moon phase. Its
spherical platinum and blued steel moon requires an adjustment
of one day every 122 years.
50
Left: The inaugural piece in the
DB 27 collection, the Titan
Hawk incorporates the
brand’s technical
achievements and
plays with threedimensional forms
to stunning effect.
Below: Housed
within a 44mm
white gold case,
the DB 25 QP
Perpetual Calendar
deftly juxtaposes
calendar indications
and features a moon
phase in which a platinum
and blued steel sphere
revolves against a starry
night sky.
CLarITy OF vISION
Right: The dial of the DB 25 WS3
displays hours, minutes and
a power reserve indicator,
providing a showcase for
De Bethune’s traditional
finishing techniques.
Below: The DB 28 took
home the top prize at
the 2011 Grand Prix
d’Horlogerie de Genève
for its avant-garde
yet timeless design.
Eschewing extraneous functions, the
white gold DB 25 WS3 artfully demonstrates the beauty of simplicity. The
dial is a grand ocean of blued titanium navigated by stainless steel
hands and defined by a silver
coast populated with blue
hour markers. The pristine
arrangement allows one
understated interruption
in the form of a power reserve display that arches
across the top of the dial.
Fully red when completely
wound, the indicator gradually
loses its color as the six-day
power reserve depletes.
SCIENCE mEETS SOrCEry
The sleek design of the DB 28 plays
with the ambiguity between past and
future. At first glance, it looks like a
tool one might see in a medieval astronomer’s observatory. Look again and it could
be a sophisticated instrument from the
22nd century.
Its mainplate is finished by hand and
completely exposed by the absence of a traditional dial. The arrangement also reveals the silicon
and platinum balance wheel, as well as the shockabsorbing system that protects its integrity. A brilliant example of horological artistry, the DB 28’s
movement provides timekeeping functions enhanced
by the addition of De Bethune’s patented moon phase
on the front side and an indicator for its six-day
power reserve on the back.
In 2011, the watch vanquished elite competition at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, where
the DB 28 earned the ceremony’s top prize, the prestigious Aiguille d’Or (Golden Hand). With its remarkable mix of aesthetic and technical excellence, it’s
no wonder.
While this award was specifically intended to honor the DB 28, it also could be more widely interpreted as
an affirmation of the raison d’être behind the firm’s entire collection. Indeed, each model, in its own individual
way, represents the realization of Zannetta and Flageollet’s
shared watchmaking vision, one galvanized by an insatiable
desire to produce the ideal horological experience. ¨
51
DEwITT
What’S
ne t
By
x
ELIzabETh DOErr
DEwITT introduces its LaTEST
CONCEPT waTCh alongside COmPLICaTED JEwELED TImEPIECES
and a line of bEauTIFuL auTOmaTICS
dedicated to LaDIES.
C
oncept watches present a clever way for a brand
specialized in complicated mechanics to experiment with technologies that extend past the usual
limits of serial production. DeWitt welcomes its third such
timepiece with the X-Watch.
Continuing the reversible idea begun with the Antipode —
concept watch number two — the 49mm case turns within
its crisscross framework, activated by pushing four buttons
on the extremities of the visible “X.”
The movement is also reversible and features double
retrograde displays on each side so that the hours and
minutes are visible, regardless of how the case is positioned. A tourbillon adds visual fascination, while a chronograph supplies stopwatch functionality. Among the
caliber’s most unique components is the peripheral rotor,
which allows a clear view of the mechanics while retaining
the convenience of automatic winding. It is attached to
DeWitt’s Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) system,
which is designed to provide a constant ideal range of
mainspring torque, resulting in improved accuracy.
Some brands prefer to introduce concept watches strictly
for show. DeWitt’s X-Watch, however, is available to the public.
Presented in a 49mm titanium case, the X-Watch’s reversible design
features retrograde time displays on both sides.
52
SEE-THROUGH SCINTILLATION
Above: The 43mm rose gold
Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton
Tourbillon reveals its skeletonized manually wound
movement, which is embellished with fine finishing.
After introducing its Twenty-8-Eight line two
years ago, DeWitt expands the collection
with a new model that provides revealing views of the firm’s first inhouse movement and its classic
complication.
The Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton
Tourbillon does not have a dial, fully exposing the details of the movement’s German
silver base plate. It has been reduced to the bare
minimum by expert hands that saw and file away
metal in an artistic manner that accentuates the
mechanism’s beauty without interfering with its operation. The meticulous process serves not only to highlight
the tourbillon, but also the balance wheel, escape wheel
and pallet lever, all of which are crafted in yellow gold.
Accented by DeWitt’s signature imperial columns, the
model’s 43mm case is presented in rose gold. A jewelry version is also available in white gold that features baguettecut and brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel.
Its impressive sparkle, however, seems low-key compared to the Triple Complication Jewelry. Its 43mm white
gold case boasts 325 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel,
case and dial, plus black diamonds and yellow sapphires on the day/night portion of the dial and another 42 brilliant-cut diamonds on the clasp. Combining such high-quality materials with a rubber
strap is audacious, but lends the timepiece a certain
laissez-faire attitude.
Offered in a limited edition of 99 pieces, the
Triple Complication Jewelry’s automatic movement
powers the main time display, date, second time
zone and day/night indicator.
Above: The haute joaillerie
version of the Twenty-8Eight Skeleton Tourbillon
features 36 baguette-cut
diamonds and 104
brilliant-cut diamonds
set in white gold.
Below: Luxurious and
playful, the Golden
Afternoon’s 39mm rose
gold case and clasp are
set with 146 brilliant-cut
diamonds.
DAYDREAM BELIEVER
Above: The Triple Complication Jewelry’s 43mm white
gold case is equipped with
an automatic movement
that powers a time display
and a second time zone
function with a day-night
indicator.
Inspired by Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures
in Wonderland, the Golden Afternoon line is a
veritable treasure chest of romantic notion enveloped in 39mm rose gold. A chocolate-colored
mother-of-pearl sky forms the backdrop for
salmon- and white-colored mother-of-pearl
flowers, which are enhanced by 146 brilliant-cut
diamonds (1.4 carats) sparkling across the bezel,
clasp and dial. Only the automatic movement is
spared extra gemstone embellishment.
To the delight of female aesthetes and connoisseurs of mechanical art, the Golden Afternoon
stands ready to beautify any wrist or spark a quick
daydream. ¨
53
gIrarD-PErrEgaux
livinG hiStorY
By
ELIzabETh DOErr
gIrarD-PErrEgaux traveled the
CrOSSrOaD between the PaST and
the FuTurE in 1966, a year in which
grOuNDbrEakINg NEw TEChNOLOgy provided a gLImPSE of the future. TODay’S 1966 COLLECTION
commemorates this Era of PrOgrESSIvE mechanics, bEauTIFuL ShaPES and its PrOmISE
of things TO COmE.
I
n 1965, the Swiss firm introduced the first mechanical movement to beat at 36,000 vibrations per hour (vph). It remains the
stuff of watchmaking legend. The
higher frequency improved accuracy, a fact underscored by the
Neuchâtel Observatory the following year, when it awarded its revered
Centenary Prize to Girard-Perregaux for
100 years of innovation and precision.
It was no doubt a time on the cutting
edge of horology. Girard-Perregaux’s modern
1966 collection pays tribute to this era in watchmaking with the complicated, manually wound
1966 Minute Repeater. Housed in a svelte rose
gold case (12.9mm deep by 42mm wide) and capped
by a traditional grand feu enamel dial, one would
never suspect the presence of the ultimate high complication contained within.
The melodious repeater and the beautiful movement form a powerful combination. Visible from the
back, the caliber’s rhodium-plated base plate is decorated with perlage and includes beveled bridges embellished by traditional côtes de Genève. Partially skeletonized, they not only allow a full view of the movement, but
also support the repeating mechanism’s two hammers,
which chime the hours, quarter hours and minutes.
54
The pinnacle
of complexity,
the 1966 Minute
Repeater chimes
the time when a
slide on the side
of the 42mm
rose gold case
is activated.
FEaST FOr ThE SENSES
Inside the 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time an automatic movement
powers the watch’s namesake complications as well as its time-keeping responsibilities. Despite a high level of complexity, adjustments to all the displays are
made easily with the crown, which moves in both directions. This not only
simplifies what is normally a tiresome procedure, but also allows the elegance of the 40mm rose gold case to remain intact.
The automatic 1966 Jewellery model, with its sleek 38mm white
gold case, shines with the brilliance of 713 diamonds (2.97 carats) on the
case and bezel while retaining the understated elegance of the entire
1966 line. Enhanced by a shiny red alligator skin strap, this sparkling
beauty is a superlative example of the meticulous work performed by
the firm’s master gem setters.
LINk TO ThE FuTurE
It was Constant Girard’s perpetual quest for precision that transformed a tourbillon component into an element that is now symbolic of the brand. His tourbillon with three bridges won a gold medal at Paris’ Universal Exhibition in
1889. At least one such bridge continues to grace each of Girard-Perregaux’s
modern wristwatch tourbillons, the latest of which is the Vintage 1945
Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges.
Limited to just 50 pieces, it is housed within a 36 x 35mm rose gold
case and powered by an automatic movement whose base plate has been
coated with an anthracite galvanic treatment and decorated with handapplied guilloché.
Even though the Vintage 1945 and 1966 collections are both explicitly linked to the past, neither is stuck there. Instead, they epitomize
Girard-Perregaux’s ability to balance tradition with innovation to create something utterly timeless. ¨
From top: The 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time’s clean design neatly
incorporates displays for its complications into an elegant 40mm rose gold case.
The 1966 Jewellery’s luxurious 38mm white gold case is set with 713 diamonds. Its
red alligator skin strap is secured with a white gold buckle set with an additional
22 diamonds.
Girard-Perregaux’s signature Three Gold Bridge design is the centerpiece of the Vintage
1945 Tourbillon, which is housed in a 36 x 35mm rose gold case.
55
h. mOSEr & CIE.
hidden
By
ELISE NuSSbaum
treaSUreS
Combining an ILLuSTrIOuS hISTOry with a devotion to TEChNICaL ExCELLENCE and uNDErSTaTED ELEgaNCE, h. mOSEr &
CIE. upholds a tradition of mETICuLOuSLy maDE
mOvEmENTS and SEDuCTIvELy SImPLE ExTErIOrS. The CLEaN LINES of the manufacture’s latest
creations bELIE the wONDErS worked wIThIN.
w
ith its Meridian – Dual Time, H. Moser & Cie.
celebrates a milestone with the Schaffhausen
firm’s first automatic movement. To enhance that
impressive achievement, Moser adds a second time zone
and an AM/PM display at the top of the dial.
The AM/PM indicator is charming in its originality.
Behind an aperture at twelve o’clock lies a slide that
bears the numbers “124.” At noon and midnight, this
slide changes position, revealing only the relevant
two digits: “12” in the morning, “24” for the afternoon and evening.
The second time zone’s red hour hand is
adjustable in one-hour increments via the
crown. The Double Pull Crown system, an
H. Moser & Cie. patent, allows the wearer to
easily set the second time zone with no danger of mistakenly changing the first one.
When the traveler is once again on home
soil, the red hand discreetly slips behind
the primary hour hand.
warm SOPhISTICaTION
The lush tones of the Monard Date Marrone create an organic-feeling piece of machinery, and its 40.8mm rose gold case suggests the utmost comfort with luxury.
Elegantly tapered hands and slim baton hour
indexes contribute to the piece’s sense of
relaxed refinement.
Within beats a manual-winding movement of
subtle sophistication that also powers the date display at six o’clock. A
cunning two-ring system, in which a ring with the numbers 1-15 is placed
atop another with the numbers 16-31, provides the date indication, ensuring a large, instantly readable display with centrally placed numerals.
56
Featuring a second time zone and an
AM/PM display, H. Moser’s Meridian –
Dual Time debuts the manufacture’s
first automatic movement.
OvEr ThE mOON
A midnight blue fumé dial
provides a dramatic backdrop
for the Moser Perpetual Moon,
housed in a moon-like, round platinum
case. Despite its straightforward look, the
moon phase display conceals an immensely complicated, astoundingly precise mechanism. The discrepancy between
the Moser Perpetual Moon and the moon itself amounts to a
mere 0.23 seconds per day, which adds up to a single day after more
than 1,000 years.
Small markers along the bottom of the moon phase display indicate the
phases for a few days ahead and behind. A small central hour hand revolves
on a 24-hour cycle, enhancing the precision of the time indication.
PErPETuaL EmOTION maChINE
The Moser Perpetual 1 is a masterpiece of understatement, combining the difficulty
and finesse of the perpetual calendar indication with a sleek, uncluttered dial.
H. Moser & Cie.’s characteristic baton hour markers and finely shaped hands
echo the rose gold of the case upon a silver-plated sunray dial.
The unique month indicator uses a small central hand that divides the dial into 12 months. The only other apparent sign of
the calendar complication is a large date display. Astute
observers will note the “flash calendar,” in which the
last date of one month switches seamlessly to the
first of the next. Whatever the month’s length,
no intervening dates are shown.
The finishing touch is the leap-year
indication on the back of the movement, shown through a sapphire
crystal caseback.
H. Moser & Cie. reveals and conceals its greatest achievements with one
stroke. Only the most discerning of connoisseurs recognize the innovation, complexity
and daring that lie beneath the serene elegance
of the dials. With these models, H. Moser makes the
near-impossible seem effortless. ¨
Above from top: The eponymous mechanism in the Moser Perpetual Moon loses
just one day of accuracy in over 1,000 years, and is the first moon phase with
such accuracy to be fitted to a wristwatch.
The Monard Date Marrone’s exceptional look combines a polished rose gold case
with a light brown dial finished with a sunray pattern.
The exclusive “flash calendar”
display on the Moser Perpetual 1
leaps from one month to the next
without showing the intervening
days.
57
hyT
life bY
the drop
By
SCOTT hICkEy
For more than a mILLENNIum, ancient
CIvILIzaTIONS from Egypt to China
m E a S u r E D T I m E using waT E r
CLOCkS, clever devices that quaNTIFIED the passage of TImE with relative aCCuraCy using the regulated
FLOw OF LIquID from one container
to another.
T
he invention of the pendulum clock in the
17th century improved precision, effectively signaling the water clock’s demise. Hundreds of years later, however, the visual poetry
and technical challenge of expressing time using
this elemental force proved irresistible to the
team behind the Swiss watch firm HYT.
When the company debuted this year with the
introduction of its H1, it represented a victory 10 years
in the making.
FrOm ENEmy TO aLLy
To realize its unique vision of hydro-mechanical watchmaking,
HYT faced a number of daunting challenges. Not the least of which
was that the fundamental premise behind the H1 — integrating liquid into
a mechanical timepiece — was anathema to watchmakers who’ve been
trained for centuries to view water as a natural enemy.
For the H1, the liquid hour indicator is undeniably the featured attraction, one that resonates deeply on both artistic and intellectual levels.
To create the aesthetic, HYT uses a capillary filled with two liquids,
one bright yellow-green and the other colorless. Selected because they will
not mix, these solutions form a distinct border where they meet, which
creates one of the most remarkable hour hands ever used in high-end
watchmaking. The liquids move through the small tube at a deliberate
pace around the edge of the 48.8mm round case once every 12 hours in a
carefully choreographed dance between fluid dynamics and horology.
58
The revolutionary H1 indicates the
hours using fluids contained within
the capillary that runs along the edge
of the 48.8mm titanium case. After
completing its 12-hour circuit, the
fluorescent solution flows backward,
mimicking a retrograde hand.
Under Pressure
To bring this idea to life, HYT developed several innovations, seven of
which are being considered for patents. Among the most impressive is
the H1’s specialized watch movement, which occupies the top half of
the dial. It controls a pair of pistons working in tandem. As one applies an increasing amount of pressure to one of the flexible alloy
bellows, the fluorescent solution advances. At the same time, the
other piston maintains equilibrium in the capillary by reducing
pressure on the other bellow, which allows it to expand and accommodate more clear liquid. When the colored solution completes
its path around the dial, it retreats backward, filling the tube with
the clear liquid and starting the process over.
To complete its time-telling function,
the H1 includes a regulator-style minute
indicator, as well as a small seconds
display made to look like a water
wheel. A small hand on the
right side provides the final
touch, indicating how
much remains of the
watch’s 65-hour power
reserve. The crown located on the side of the
case in the 2:30 position is used to set the
time and wind the
movement.
HYT produces four
versions of the H1: titanium, black DLC-coated
titanium, a combination of
black DLC-coated titanium
and 5N red gold, and lastly a full
5N red gold model.
Inspired by antiquity and fueled by
cutting-edge tech, HYT transports chronometry back to the age of the
water clock, when the sound of time was drip drop, not tick tock. ¨
The H1’s ingenious design marries a modified watch movement to a system
of bellows to create the world’s first liquid hour indicator. A sapphire crystal
that measures 5mm thick provides a clear view of the mechanism and contributes to the watch’s impressive dimensions. The case, which is nearly 18mm
thick, is shown here in three different configurations (from top): 5N red gold with
black DLC-coated elements, 5N red gold, and titanium coated entirely in black DLC.
59
IwC
Clockwise from top: The city ring that circles
the Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer’s dial displays the
time in 24 different time zones, including
Universal Time Coordinated (UTC),
the world’s primary time standard.
The new Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN
Miramar is powered by IWC’s largest
automatic movement, which offers
more than four days of reserve
power when fully wound.
The newly redesigned date display
on the Spitfire Chronograph is made
to look like an analog altimeter gauge.
60
By
EyES ON ThE
SkIES
Scot t hickeY
The TraJECTOry that IwC and avIaTOrS have SharED for more than 70 yEarS can
be retraced as easily as FOLLOwINg a JET’S CONTraILS across a CLEar bLuE Sky.
I
t began in the 1930s, when the timepieces produced at the firm’s manufacture in Schaffhausen, Switzerland first earned the trust of flight
crews by demonstrating an indispensable combination of precision and legibility.
Navigators prized these traits and relied upon
them to perform their duties accurately. To further assist them, many of the dials used for these “observer’s
watches” featured a chapter ring dedicated exclusively
to minutes and seconds — the increments used primarily by navigators. A smaller circle was placed inside the
ring for the purpose of indicating the hours.
IWC uses this authentic arrangement to define the
look of its Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Miramar. Part
of the popular Top Gun collection established in 2007,
this new model is among the first to bear the Miramar
designation. The name references the San Diego, California neighborhood that served as the original home
of the elite fighter pilot training school widely known
as TOPGUN.
The watch takes its visual cues from the past,
in particular the dial’s beige accents and the textile
strap’s camo-green hue. The movement and case,
however, are both state of the art. Endowed with
date and power reserve functions, the automatic
movement comes in a 48mm case made from
polished ceramic, a material IWC pioneered in
the realm of haute horlogerie.
hIgh-FLyINg hOrOLOgy
IWC keeps its eyes on the skies, adding
new recruits to the Spitfire collection it
introduced in 2003. An aviation legend,
the Spitfire propeller-aircraft was a mainstay of the
British Royal Air Force for decades. According to IWC,
the original Spitfire prototype made its first flight in
1936, the same year the firm introduced its first
Pilot’s Watch.
The Spitfire Chronograph shows off an updated
look that’s highlighted by a date display shaped similarly to an altimeter gauge from an aircraft’s analog instrument panel. More than just cosmetic, the changes
also encompass the automatic movement, extending its
power reserve from 44 to 68 hours. Made in-house by
IWC, this chronograph with flyback capability is presented in a 43mm case made from either stainless steel,
or for the first time, red gold.
The Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer is the final member
of this three-watch formation, a fitting position for a
watch that performs so admirably as a wingman. The
perfect traveling companion, this timepiece features a
second time zone function that makes it possible to see
the time in 24 different zones by glancing at the ring
circling the dial. It features the names of 23 cities as
well as Universal Time Coordinated (UTC), the world’s
primary time standard since 1972.
For added convenience, the central time display can
be adjusted either forward or backward in one-hour
increments. Should that change include crossing the
International Date Line, the altimeter-style date display
automatically follows suit. This year, IWC presents the
Pilot’s Watch Worldtimer in a larger stainless steel case
that has grown to 45mm.
With these aviation-inspired timepieces, IWC lights
the afterburners, sending its historic Pilot’s Watch
family soaring to new heights. ¨
61
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The clear caseback of the
Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon reveals
the movement’s “dual-wing” design, which
boasts two independent mainsprings, one for
time keeping and the other for the complication.
dream
loGic
Building on its ICONIC
foundations, JaEgErLECOuLTrE brings its
CONSIDErabLE hOrOLOgICaL ExPErTISE
to bear on an array of
TImEPIECES that range
from the rEvOLuTIONary
to the rEFINED. Together,
these latest models show
that the LEgENDary
manufacture is equally
adept at exploring NEw
mEChaNICaL IDEaS as
well as making SOPhISTICaTED aPPEaLS to the
aesthete in each of us.
By
ELISE NuSSbaum
baCk TO zErO
One of the paradoxes of haute horlogerie is that expanding a movement’s functionality by adding a complication has the potential to compromise the watch’s
precision. To overcome this, Jaeger-LeCoultre devised its “dual-wing” concept.
The realization of this groundbreaking design is a single movement that
features two independent power sources, one dedicated exclusively to
time keeping and a second for all other functions. A single regulating organ
distributes the energy generated by both, which optimizes accuracy for the
entire timepiece.
The Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon uses the dual-wing design for its exceptionally advanced movement, which boasts the first tourbillon adjustable
to the nearest second. A rare few have unraveled the
engineering necessary to create a tourbillon
with a stop-seconds device. But none
— until now — have made it
possible for the wearer to
reset the seconds to zero,
a remarkable achievement that enhances ultra-precise time setting.
Undoubtedly, the
most striking feature of
this Duomètre model is
its remarkable tourbillon. An opening on the dial
reveals the mechanism,
which revolves on two axes to
counter gravity’s pull on its cylindrical-shaped balance spring. The
tourbillon rotates in its titanium cage on its
standard (flat) axis once every 30 seconds and
once every 15 seconds on an axis tilted 20
degrees.
Rotating on two axes, the Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon’s namesake tourbillon is the
first with a stop-seconds device that allows the wearer to reset the seconds to zero
for precise time setting.
63
JaEgEr-LECOuLTrE
maSTEr CLaSS
Left: An arc-shaped indicator
A truly renowned watch brand builds its reputation
highlights the stainless steel Master
on both style and substance, and reliability is key
Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche’s
to maintaining one’s rank among the elite. To this
43-hour power reserve.
end, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced its Master
Below: Like all members of the
Control line in 1992.
Master Control line, the Master
After assembly, every watch is subjected
Ultra Thin Moon 39 must pass
to six weeks of rigorous tests presided over
1,000 hours of rigorous
by the brand’s master inspector. Each watch
testing before it is allowed
is put through its paces in a specialized
to leave the factory.
machine that rotates it at irregular intervals to simulate normal wear. Then it must
endure temperature-related stress tests and
prove its accuracy in six positions. Only after
the watch has passed all its exams does the
master inspector sign its certificate and send it
off into the world.
The Master Control Ultra Thin models take this
quest for excellence one step further by imposing
strict size requirements. A prime example is the
Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche, which is
powered by an automatic movement that slips neatly
into a case that is less than 10mm thick.
Already a bestseller within the Master Control line,
the Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche refines its approach even further in
2012 with a 39mm case — available in rose gold or stainless steel — that features streamlined lugs and a slimmer face. Despite the changing proportions,
the piece maintains its clarity with a display that neatly balances central hours
and minutes, small seconds, date indication and a power reserve display.
Another member of the collection, the Master Ultra Thin Moon 39 shows
off a similar sophistication. Housed in a 39mm rose gold case, its three-hand time
display is supplemented by a single subdial that combines a date display with a
moon phase.
TwICE aS NICE
The tiny patch of real estate afforded by a wristwatch has always been a
sticking point for the world’s most ambitious horologers. Though many try to expand their
horizons by creating ever-larger canvases for this miniature artistry, JaegerLeCoultre has long held a different approach as demonstrated by its iconic
Reverso.
Its unique design upended tradition
— quite literally — by allowing the
wearer to rotate the case, effectively
doubling the area of the dial. This innovation was a boon for watch designers,
who enjoyed twice as much dial area to
The limited edition Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ seduces the eye with its
work with, and horology aficionados,
lacy open-worked architecture and blue enamel accent on the front dial.
64
who could switch between dials at will. The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ combines this signature case with the highly specialized art of openworking the movement by hand. The result is a spectacular display of a cherished watchmaking technique, pulled off with verve and panache.
The front dial further evokes historical watchmaking with an enamel border
that frames the face with a rich blue that matches the traditional shade of the
model’s hour and minute hands. For centuries, enamel has been a refined
addition to watches and its use here evokes Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history of
expertise.
The piece’s most noteworthy dimension is its ultra-thin profile, made
possible by its movement, which measures an astonishingly thin 1.85mm.
The mechanism’s slimness and intricate skeletonization make it an irresistible challenge for the watchmaker and equally tempting for watch lovers. The
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin SQ is available in a limited edition of just 50 pieces.
SEa CLEarLy NOw
The Deep Sea Chronograph provides an apt example of how Jaeger-LeCoultre’s
long and rich history gives it unique license to use ideas from its past in unexpected
ways. The display for this dive watch is based on the Chronoflight — a Jaeger-LeCoultre
chronograph used onboard aircraft during the 1930s.
The system is brilliant in its clarity. A round aperture near the center of the dial
shows white when the chronograph is ready to start a new measurement, white and
red while a measurement is in progress, and red when the chronograph has been
stopped.
The Deep Sea Chronograph provides this indicator in addition to the required
array of features standard on modern diving watches: unidirectional rotating bezel,
water resistance to 100 meters, luminescent indications, shock resistance and
imperviousness to magnetic fields.
An operating indicator
positioned between two chronograph counters changes to
show when the Deep Sea
Chronograph’s signature
complication is in use.
DaTE wITh DESTINy
Actress Diane Kruger is perfectly cast in her latest role as muse for the Rendez-Vous Collection.
Kruger’s ineffable talent and charisma speak through the design, imbuing each watch with the
feminine presence and power she brings to her films.
Informed by Art Deco’s clean lines and 1930s-style numerals, these watches project Kruger’s
self-assured femininity with sparkling diamond-set bezels, confident hour markers and
whimsical indicators. The mechanical movement within is a hand-guilloché treasure that
incorporates either a date or day/night display. The Rendez-Vous watch is available in
two sizes (29 or 34mm) in either rose gold or stainless steel.
With creations that range from sublimely simple to
impossibly complex, Jaeger-LeCoultre tends its legacy
with impeccable savoir-faire. ¨
The enchanting dial used for
these Rendez-Vous watches
draws inspiration from Art
Deco style, the idea of
feminine fortitude and
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s history.
65
CuLINary CamEOS
Small pleaSUreS
By
amY cohen
biG flavorS
To be a NEw yOrkEr is to have an OPINION, especially about where to FIND the bEST of EvEryThINg.
w
hether you’re looking for the finest local honey (Tremblay
at the Union Square greenmarket), the ultimate pancakes
(Clinton St. Baking Company), or a great old-fashioned
candy store (Myzel’s), the best is always open for debate. The meek
become strong when arguing which butcher has the best steak
(Pat LaFrieda), and the quiet raise their voices explaining why the trip
to Kossar’s (bialys and bagels) is well worth the taxi fare (you can
always catch a cab at the Plaza Hotel or Columbus Circle).
Lobsters rolls, cupcakes and burgers. They appease our sybaritic
longings and each is eaten pleasurably with our hands. It’s easy to
understand why these three are local obsessions. As the quintessential summer dish, lobster rolls allow us to relive moments spent
outside enjoying the warm weather and sea air. Cupcakes give us permission to satisfy our lust for sweets on a smaller, seemingly less
decadent, scale. And nothing could be more gratifying for the carnivore than the perfect burger, one with just the right balance of smoky
heat, top-notch meat and caramelized sear.
We wouldn’t be true New Yorkers without offering a few opinions
of our own. Which is the best? You be the judge!
66
Sweet Revenge photo by Lourdes Merson. Breslin photo by Myriam Babin. Gramercy Tavern photo by Ellen Silverman
Clockwise from top left: db Bistro Moderne; Sweet Revenge; The Breslin;
Molly’s Cupcakes; Ed McFarland, owner of Ed’s Lobster Bar; Gramercy
Tavern; Luke’s Lobster.
67
CuLINary CamEOS
F
ew things polarize the city as much
as the search for the best lobster roll,
arousing passions that flare up among
otherwise peace-loving neighbors. Although
far from Maine, many of the chefs are still
connected to what they consider the motherland and it is with pride that they announce their catch is always the freshest.
All of the contenders use whole pieces of lobster with nary
a shred in sight. Old Bay fries top the must-accompany list. A New
England-style split-top bun or brioche is considered de rigueur, but
the jury is out on to mayo or not to mayo. For every purist who
shuns it, you’ll find one who can’t live without it. Hands down, the
unanimous goal is to re-create the feeling of being at your favorite
fish shack on the beach, lobster roll in one hand and a drink in
the other.
ED’S LObSTEr bar
222 Lafayette Street
212.343.3236 • www.lobsterbarnyc.com
Ed’s Lobster Bar
The lobster at Ed’s Lobster Bar is cooked
in-house every morning. Owner Ed
McFarland is passionate about the delicateness and simplicity of seafood, so
not an ounce of the whole lobster claw,
knuckle or tail goes to waste. The large
chunks are coated lightly with mayo and
seasoning and placed overflowing into a
traditional toasted, top-sliced bun. The
dish is served with a side of homemade
pickles and a choice of salad or fries.
Looking for McFarland? He’s easy to spot
with the two-pound lobster tattooed on
his left arm.
LukE’S LObSTEr
9 East 7th Street
212.387.8487 • www.lukeslobster.com
Growing up in Cape Elizabeth, Maine with
a father in the business, Luke Holden built
his own boat and ran his first lobster business while still in high school. He firmly
backs Maine’s responsible harvesting practices and uses only whole picked claws and
knuckles. Holden takes a purist approach,
so unless you specifically request it, you
won’t find anything in the traditional buttered and toasted bun other than lobster
and a few spices. A bag of kettle chips and
a few pickles round out the meal. To keep it
authentic, add a handcrafted ginger or sarsaparilla soda from Maine.
lobSter
Luke’s Lobster
bLT FISh
BLT Fish
BLT Fish photograph by Noah Fecks
21 West 17th Street
212.691.8888 • www.e2hospitality.com
BLT Fish has built an excellent reputation for
having top-notch fresh fish from around the
world, and the Maine lobster that fills their
roll is no exception. Lightly seasoned with a
touch of mayo, the whole lobster is sliced into
sizable lumps and stuffed inside a buttered,
split-top roll, which adds an extra bit of richness. Customize by ordering without mayo or
the bun. You can also trade the side of Old
Bay fries for onion rings or a green salad to
experience a different take on the dish.
ThE mErmaID OySTEr bar
79 MacDougal Street
212.260-0100 • www.themermaidnyc.com
The Mermaid
Oyster Bar
Although well known for offering a variety of
oysters, the Mermaid’s lobster rolls are
equally noteworthy. You’ll find only whole
lumps of Maine lobster knuckle, claw and tail
in the Mermaid’s sandwich. A generous dressing of mayo, lemon juice, celery, chives, cayenne and Old Bay is mixed into the lobster
meat, which is piled high on a toasted brioche roll brushed with clarified butter. A
heaping mound of Old Bay fries gives the dish
fish-shack authenticity.
ED’S ChOwDEr hOuSE
44 West 63rd Street
212.956.1288 • www.chinagrillmgt.com
Ed’s Chowder House
These lip-smacking rolls use the whole lobster, delivered fresh from Maine. While it’s
firmly in the no-mayo camp, Ed’s Chowder
House does spice it up with lemon aioli, tarragon lemon zest and a splash of Tabasco.
The lobster is served on a buttered, toasted,
split-top brioche roll and comes with a side
of multi-colored coleslaw. Ed’s likes to keep it
traditional, but for special events the chef
has been known ramp it up by using smokedpaprika butter on grilled bread.
rollS
69
CuLINary CamEOS
Sprinkles Cupcakes
C
upcakes are the world’s edible peacemakers, able
to coax a smile from almost everyone. Who hasn’t
struggled with that difficult decision of which to
eat first, the icing on top or the cake on bottom? All of
the bakeries we spotlight make their cupcakes from
scratch in small batches and offer flavors that go way
beyond classic vanilla and chocolate.
Each founder started their career in a completely
different direction, so the foundations of their stores are
built on true passion. Perhaps what makes their treats
so irresistibly scrumptious is that they are genuinely
from the heart, the way the best desserts always are.
Red velvet is favored by more New Yorkers, according to the bakers, but there are so many different
choices, you don’t need to limit yourself to just one.
Whether it’s standard or mini, seasonal or filled, solo or
with a drink, temptation awaits.
SPrINkLES CuPCakES
780 Lexington Avenue
212.207.8375 • www.sprinkles.com
Founder Candace Nelson says desserts should be a daily pleasure rather than an occasional indulgence. She
made the transition from investment banker to pastry
chef to custom baker to discover her true métier. Sprinkles carries on the spirit of her great-grandmother, who
was celebrated for the desserts she offered at her San
Francisco restaurant in the 1930’s. The tradition continues with simple flavors like ginger lemon, orange and
chocolate coconut. Anyone who’s indulged will agree,
the minis are just as moist as their full-size counterparts. Flavors like Irish chocolate, Key lime and eggnog
spice are available year-round.
TwO LITTLE rED hENS
1652 Second Avenue
212.452.0476 • www.twolittleredhens.com
The inspiration for the store’s name came from the classic children’s book, “The Little Red Hen” as well as the
pastry chef’s childhood on an Iowa farm. Unlike the red
hen’s experience in the book, the staff here is happy to
help. The traditional and specialty cupcakes both have
fans swooning over the moist cake and waxing poetic
about the cake-to-icing ratio. When fillings like the seasonal Bavarian eggnog cream and gingerbread are added
to specialty cupcakes like dark chocolate and light chiffon cake, the simple goes from delicious to decadent.
cUpcakeS
Two Little Red Hens
buTTErCuP bakE ShOP
973 Second Avenue
212.350.4144 • www.buttercupbakeshop.com
At the end of her workday as a psychologist,
Jennifer Appel would unwind by making special desserts. Her hobby became her business
when she opened the first Magnolia Bakery
with a partner in 1996, before going solo in 1999
with Buttercup. Her dedication to finding the
best ingredients and desire to create the perfect
snack are obvious from the first bites of the
Buttercup golden and the German chocolate
cupcakes. Hummingbird and lady Baltimore
flavors are Appel’s homage to old-fashioned
American desserts and a nod to the memory of
her mother and grandmothers’ baking.
Buttercup Bake Shop
mOLLy’S CuPCakES
228 Bleecker Street
212.414.2253 • www.mollyscupcakes.com
Sweet Revenge photograph by Lourdes Merson
Molly’s Cupcakes
SwEET rEvENgE
62 Carmine Street
212.242.2240 • www.sweetrevengenyc.com
The playfulness of owner John Nicolaides’ former
career as a creative director is evident in the fillings he
offers at Molly’s Cupcakes, like cake batter and cookie
monster. Visitors are encouraged to tap into their inner
child and design their own by selecting the flavors of
the cake, frosting and topping. Fillings such as pumpkin spice, strawberry shortcake and cranberry orange
change with the seasons, but you can always count on
the classics year-round. Nicolaides donates a portion of
the profits to local schools to honor Miss Molly, his
third-grade teacher, who made cupcakes to celebrate
her student’s birthdays.
Sweet Revenge
Owner Marlo Scott says her special knack for
being laid off from jobs in the media industry
prompted her to look for a better environment
to thrive in. The unique beer-wine-cupcake
pairings she offers at Sweet Revenge developed
out of her early role as bartender, when she
would rave about combining cupcakes with
alcohol instead of coffee. The results are as delightful to view as they are to nibble. With flavors like dulce de leche, fleur de sel and Mayan
chocolate, Scott says she wants her patrons
to: “Lust the one you want, but love the one
you’re with.”
71
CuLINary CamEOS
mINETTa TavErN
113 MacDougal Street
212.475.3850 • www.minettatavernny.com
At Minetta Tavern, Pat LaFrieda is king! The mix for the restaurant’s
Black Label burger contains brisket, short rib and chuck. What makes
the difference, they say, is the addition of prime rib eye that has been
dry aged for 45 days. The Black Label is topped only with caramelized
onions, while the “regular” burger adds melted cheddar cheese to the
onions. Both are nestled in a house-baked brioche bun and served
with homemade pickles, Bibb lettuce, tomato and a side of hand-cut,
twice-cooked pommes frites.
db bISTrO mODErNE
55 West 44th Street
212.391.2400 • www.danielnyc.com
Notorious for its $32 price tag, the db Burger is the creation of chef
Daniel Boulud, who combines the best of French and American cuisine
for his recipe. Three cuts of sirloin enclose a stuffing of red wine
braised short ribs, seared foie gras, a mirepoix of root vegetables and
preserved black truffle. With a topping of fresh horseradish, roasted
tomato confit, tomato, red onions and frisée lettuce, it barely fits into
the toasted Parmesan bun. It’s served with fries and condiments, but
if that’s not decadent enough, order the “Royale” during truffle season
to add fresh black truffle and truffle dressing.
db Bistro Moderne photograph by B. Milne
D
on’t get a New Yorker started on
burgers. To cheese or not to
cheese? The bacon equation. Is
the ketchup made in-house? Brioche or
bun? The juiciness factor. Each is important, but burger lovers agree that it always comes down to the meat. One of the
world’s best-kept secrets is what’s in a
restaurant’s proprietary mix, a formula
passed down to a select few and shared
with none. Calculating the proportion of
lean to fat, the brisket-short rib-chuck
ratio, and how long to dry age could give
even a mathematician a headache.
The common denominator for many
restaurants is Pat LaFrieda, the patron
saint of burgers that legions swear by. Others vie to be in the select group that snags
the weekday, lunch-only, house-ground
burger at Gramercy Tavern. For elite clientele who live large, there is even a burger
stuffed with foie gras and topped with truffles. From the simple to the sublime, there
is a burger to satisfy every palate.
db Bistro Moderne
Minetta Tavern photograph by Sylvia Paret
Minetta Tavern
bUrGerS
gramErCy TavErN
Gramercy Tavern photograph by Ellen Silverman
42 East 20th Street
212.477.0777 • www.gramercytavern.com
If you’re lucky, you can get one of the 25
burgers Gramercy Tavern offers as an offthe-menu weekday lunch special. The burger
mix is 75 percent lean and blends aged chuck,
short rib and brisket from four breeds
selected from local farms. Grilled over an
open, wood-burning fire and topped with
Cabot clothbound cheddar, it’s served with
house-made ketchup, mustard and pickled
ramp aioli on the pastry chef’s signature
graham bun. During the summer, add heirloom tomatoes and pickled onions. The rest
of the time, it comes with potato salad and
caramelized onions.
Gramercy Tavern
COrNEr bISTrO
331 West 4th Street
212.242.9502 • www.cornerbistrony.com
The Breslin photograph by Myriam Babin
Corner Bistro
The Corner Bistro is old school, a West Village
institution that has remained unchanged since
the ’60s, right down to way it grills its burgers
overhead in salamander broilers. Even the prices are vintage, with the most expensive burger
going for $8. The signature Bistro Bacon Cheeseburger is a blend of round, sirloin and chuck
served on a sesame seed bun. All burgers are
topped with lettuce, tomato and a slice of raw
onion. Enjoy one with salty shoestring fries and
a frosty glass of McSorley’s Ale and toast to old
New York!
ThE brESLIN
16 West 29th Street
212.679.1939 • www.thebreslin.com
To ensure its juiciness, Breslin’s char-grilled
lamb burger is made with American lamb
from Pat LaFrieda using a classified and carefully measured meat-to-fat ratio. The purist
approach lets the high-quality meat speak
for itself. Feta is the traditional pairing with
lamb, so a generous slice of salty French feta
and some red onions keep it authentic while
a grilled sourdough bun adds textural contrast. One of Breslin’s best sellers, it’s delivered on a rustic wood cutting board alongside a tall stack of triple-cooked fries and a
dollop of cumin mayo. ¨
The Breslin
73
LuDOvIC baLLOuarD
HAlF TIMe SHoW
T
If a quote can sum up a
waTChmakEr’S PhILOSOPhy,
then LuDOvIC baLLOuarD has
done it in ten words: “I wanted
an uNuSuaL COmPLICaTION,
which would aLSO bE FuN.”
The Half Time’s unconventional,
two-part display rotates, forming
one “whole” numeral to indicate
the hour. Its 41mm case is offered
in platinum (shown) and 5N red gold.
74
By
kEN kESSLEr
here can be no greater challenge for both the watchmaker
and the intended client than
devising a method of displaying
the time that causes the observer
to stop and think. It is the antithesis of conventional and accepted
practice — that of conveying the
time as quickly and intuitively
as possible.
Even the most hidebound
of digital watch wearers have
to admit that two hands rotating on a dial provide an iconic
method of showing the time. It’s
so clear that one doesn’t even need
numbers. You just know what the time is
when you see a “little hand” in one position and a “big hand” in another. For Ludovic
Ballouard, that approach is, well, boring.
Only 41 years old, the French-born, Genevabased watchmaker set up on his own in 1998, having
worked with such maestri as Franck Muller and
F.P. Journe. He has now produced his second assault on
time telling with the Half Time, taking its name from a
familiar sporting events expression, but twisting it to his own
wily ends.
For this affront to convention, Ballouard has split every Roman
numeral into two, the halves appearing on two concentric, contrarotating dials. When a specific hour is reached, its two halves meet in
a window at what would be the twelve o’clock position. In this respect,
the Half Time recalls what were known as “digital watches” — purely
mechanical displays of printed digits — before electronics made the
numbers appear on LEDs or LCDs.
Ballouard, however, eschewed the simple rotating-disc-withwhole-numbers method, as still used for date displays in mechanical
watches. Instead, by splitting the numbers in half, he has created a
visual deception, unreadable numbers that only snap into coherence
at the correct time, and in one spot. A retrograde hand at the six o’clock
position indicates the minutes.
Ballouard produces around 50 numbered
pieces a year, ensuring their collectability.
Novel displays aside, they are masterpieces
consisting of more than 300 components visible through the sapphire glass caseback and
housed in a 41mm case in platinum or 5N red
gold. As Ballouard cheerily explains, “The
heart of the Half Time is happy to proudly
show itself, but only to its owner.”
From top: Exposed through its sapphire crystal back,
the Half Time movement is revealed in all its novel
complexity.
The Upside Down’s case comes in either platinum
or 5N red gold. Both versions can be enhanced with
diamond accents on the case, lugs and buckle.
The numbers on the Upside Down’s dial are inverted
except for the current hour. Every 60 minutes, the passing and arriving hours snap into their new positions.
ON ThE uPSIDE
This eccentric approach to displaying the time began in
December 2009 with the now-famous Upside Down,
which earned Ballouard the Special Prize of the Jury,
awarded by Montres Passions the following year in Geneva.
Its clever complication is its method of displaying the
hour, with a layout based on an old rotary-dial phone. The
numbers rotate instantaneously as their turn is called.
But Ballouard has created a mechanism in which
every numeral for every hour is upside down, except for
the numeral showing the correct time. A center-mounted hand shows the minutes and the seconds are displayed conventionally in a subdial, but the wearer has
to have his or her eyes trained on each of the 12 rotating
numerals to detect which is right-side up.
Born in platinum, this sensational timepiece is now
available in 5N red gold, set with diamonds, with a black
PVD titanium dial, a black gold movement or other variations.
Cellini is one of only three retailers in the U.S. with
Ballouard’s exceptional timepieces and the only source
on the East Coast. The fun, then, starts here. ¨
ParmIgIaNI FLEurIEr
JaCk FOrSTEr
a SenSe of place
By
ParmIgIaNI FLEurIEr takes its name
from a PLaCE and a PErSON, both of
which are key to its DISTINCTIvE
character. mIChEL ParmIgIaNI, who established the
company in 1996, is a SuPErSTar in the rarefied world
of watchmaking. He’s
one of the very FEw
CraFTSmEN in the
world who’s SPECIaLIzED in the rESTOraTION and rEPaIr of
rare and hISTOrICaLLy ImPOrTaNT
clocks and watches.
That experience has
given him a LEvEL
OF maSTEry and a
DEPTh OF uNDErSTaNDINg of watch
design that has reached
maTurE ExPrESSION
in the watches made by
Parmigiani Fleurier.
F
leurier is located in Val-de-Travers,
a municipality in the Swiss Jura,
the mountainous region on the northeastern border of Switzerland. The area has been a
center for watchmaking for as long as watches have
been made in Switzerland. It’s here, in a state-of-the-art
factory, where artisans trained in centuries-old techniques of assembly, adjustment and finishing, create
Parmigiani Fleurier watches.
76
mODErN CLaSSICS
In decades past, many Swiss watch firms employed specialist suppliers to provide them with cases,
dials and even movements. In recent years,
however, connoisseurs have come to
prefer that fine watchmaking houses,
as much as possible, create their
watches “in-house.” There are few
companies with greater capabilities in this respect than
Parmigiani Fleurier, which
makes its movements, dials
and cases in-house. The only
major exceptions are its
straps. But perhaps this
minor deviation can be forgiven — after all, they’re
made by Hermès.
Yo u m i g h t e x p e c t ,
therefore, that Parmigiani
Fleurier’s stock in trade
would be watches that embrace wholeheartedly a traditional approach to craft
and a completely conservative approach to design. You’d
be half right — Parmigiani
Fleurier’s inspiration is indeed
strongly grounded in traditional watchmaking craftsmanship,
but it takes the design language of
classical watchmaking not as a point
of arrival, but a point of departure.
DaILy DOubLE
One of this year’s most important new watches,
the Tonda Retrograde Annual Calendar, is a perfect
example. The round case is pure tradition. But at 40mm,
its size is in step with modern dress watches and not
vintage dress watches, which typically fall somewhere
between 32 and 38mm.
This page and facing:
Distinctly Parmigiani, the
Tonda Retrograde Annual
Calendar offers one of
watchmaking’s most useful
complications in a dropdead elegant package.
ParmIgIaNI FLEurIEr
This is the company’s first annual calendar, a complication that automatically corrects the date at the end of each month except
February, which requires a manual adjustment. The relaxed elegance of the case is reflected in the composition of the dial. A retrograde hand moving across an arc from eight
to four o’clock shows the date, which is complemented by dials indicating the day of the
week and the month.
A moon phase display offers a final touch,
showing the age and phase of the moon in
both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.
In keeping with what one might expect from
Michel Parmigiani’s expertise in complicated
watchmaking, the moon phase display is
accurate to one day every 120 years, unlike
most others that are off by a day after only
two years.
One of watchmaking’s most revered complications is on show in the
white gold Tonda 42 Perpetual Calendar. Its open dial reveals the
miraculously minute mechanical computer that automatically
displays the right date, no matter what month or year.
Though the annual calendar is a splendidly practical and robust complication, there’s no doubt that a full perpetual calendar
exerts a special fascination. For those desiring a particularly mesmerizing example of this classic high complication, Parmigiani
Fleurier makes the Tonda 42 Perpetual Calendar.
Like the Tonda Retrograde Annual Calendar, it shows the date
on a retrograde display, but it automatically corrects for the month
of February, even during leap years. The firm produces an especially compelling version of this watch with an open dial that exposes the perpetual calendar’s cadrature — the technical term for
complicated work under the watch’s dial.
TraCk aND FIELD
One of the greatest cars of all time inspires
one of the world’s most beautiful watches, the
Atalante Flyback Chronograph, presented in a
43mm rose gold case.
78
For several years now, Parmigiani Fleurier has created watches in
partnership with Bugatti, one of the world’s most prestigious luxury automakers. One of its vintage models, the Bugatti Type 57S
Atalante, provided the inspiration behind Parmigiani’s Atalante
Flyback Chronograph.
This connection is manifest by the dial, which emulates the
vertical pattern of the car’s radiator grille. It combines a flyback
function, which allows instantaneous reset and restart of the timing function, with the ergonomic placement of the pushers on the
left-hand side of the case, where the thumb can easily press them.
Together, these traits identify the watch as a thoroughbred
example of that rare breed, the gentleman’s sports chronograph.
Parmigiani shifts gears, moving from the
track to the field with a collection that highlights its role as the official watchmaker
for the CBF, the governing body that oversees the legendary Brazilian football
team. Using the Parmigiani Pershing
model as a starting point, the Pershing CBF Chronograph shares the
original’s in-house automatic chronograph movement, as well as its
gracefully sweeping lines and a
sporty but refined exterior.
Several aesthetic differences,
however, make the Pershing CBF collection unique. The design sports the
Brazilian team’s colors, using blue for
the dial’s côtes de Genève pattern, gold
for the chronograph hands, and a small
seconds that features five green stars, one
for each of the team’s World Cup wins. Turning
the 45mm titanium case over reveals the CBF
logo engraved onto the caseback.
Parmigiani also makes a smaller version of
the Pershing CBF Chronograph for women. Its
42mm stainless steel case features rose gold
chronograph pushers and a matching diamond-set bezel. The white alligator strap
echoes the mother-of-pearl dial, which includes the same small seconds indicator
found on the men’s model.
Left and below: Made to honor the Brazilian
football team, the Pershing CBF Chronograph’s
design incorporates the team’s colors: blue,
green and gold.
The Pershing CBF Chronograph for
ladies is presented in a 42mm
stainless steel case with a
diamond-set rose gold bezel.
The men’s model features a
45mm titanium case with either
a rose or white gold bezel.
CuLTIvaTED COmPLICaTION
Parmigiani Fleurier achieves the pinnacle of refinement with the new
Torigraph Tourbillon Chronograph. It brings together a twobutton chronograph and date indication with the tourbillon —
a mechanism intended to protect
the accuracy of the watch against
the disturbing effects of gravity, and
one of watchmaking’s most demanding
complications.
As a demonstration of the marriage
between utility and beauty, it’s one of
Parmigiani Fleurier’s most compelling watches. It is also the latest in the firm’s ongoing
spectacle of watchmaking to exhibit the distinctive terroir of the village of Fleurier, and
the masterful touch of Michel Parmigiani. ¨
Left: The centuries-old tourbillon has never
looked as fresh as it does in the Torigraph
Tourbillon Chronograph. The superbly balanced
ornamentation of the dial and the white gold
case make it a modern classic.
79
PIagET
hIgh hOrOLOgy
The case of the Polo FortyFive measures
45mm in diameter, a sly reference to the
45 minutes that make up a polo match.
80
A LumINary in the luxury watch firmament, PIagET’S
ExCEPTIONaL rEPuTaTION stems from its TEChNICaL
ExPErTISE — particularly in the arena of uLTra-SLIm mOvEmENTS — and its eye for TImELESS STyLE. These two currents
join together in the horologer’s latest offerings, which run the
gamut from mINImaLIST DIaLS to bEJEwELED DESIgNS,
all while maintaining the ELEvaTED LEvEL of watchmaking
TEChNIquE for which it has become known.
By
ELISE NuSSbaum
Below: At the heart of the Altiplano’s refined aesthetic beats
an ultra-thin, manually wound
movement produced entirely
in-house by Piaget.
Dark aND DaShINg
Black is the new black on the Polo FortyFive thanks to a coat of Amorphous Diamond-Like Carbon (ADLC), which provides a sleek look and added protection
against the world’s vagaries. Available as
either a chronograph or an automatic
with large date, this titanium and stainless steel edition of the Polo FortyFive
draws inspiration, as well as some DNA,
from the highly successful all-titanium
version.
Striking and stylish, the Polo FortyFive Chronograph delights world travelers and horological aficionados alike
with attractive functions such as a large
date, flyback chronograph, small seconds
and second time zone. The three subdials
touch but do not overlap, emphasizing
the interconnectedness of all horological
functions and the delicate balancing act
that weaves them together within the
same movement. As is characteristic of
Piaget, the brand has set an additional
challenge for itself by deftly slipping
these complications into an ultra-thin
movement measuring a mere 5.6mm.
The piece’s monochromatic dial features
touches of SuperLumiNova for increased
legibility against the black background.
The accessibility and immediate comprehension of the dial belies the
technical sophistication below. This Polo FortyFive Chronograph is
powered by the 880P caliber, a complex mechanism crafted entirely by
Piaget’s artisans. The piece is casual yet chic, the perfect complement
to any wardrobe.
ThE bEauTy OF SImPLICITy
The inky power of black also makes an impression on the Altiplano.
Adhering to the watchmaker’s exacting aesthetic code, this piece presents an effortlessly sophisticated monochrome front, conveying refinement and ageless classicism.
The 430P movement features a similar focus on horological essentials, especially its 43-hour power reserve, which is wholly dedicated to
the hours and minutes display. This purity of intent allows the 430P to
boast an exceptionally slender thickness of 2.1mm, while the Altiplano’s
white gold case measures a vanishingly slim 6mm from front to back.
The piece’s baton-shaped hands continue this fashionable emphasis on
the long and lean, which is echoed by the silver baton hour markers.
wITh a LOw PrOFILE
81
PIagET
TwO CaN PLay ThaT gamE
With a classic hinged design underlying its rose gold
case, the Altiplano Double Jeu is essentially two ultrathin timepieces in one. One dial features hours, minutes
and small seconds with the brand’s characteristic
pared-down elegance. The case opens to reveal an additional dial with a second time zone on a 24-hour scale.
This position also affords a view of the 838P movement
that powers the upper dial and is observable through a
clear caseback. Owing to the extreme slenderness of the
two movements inside, the rose gold case measures just
11.7mm thick.
ELLIPTICaL ILLuSION
Under the umbrella of the Black Tie collection, Piaget’s Gouverneur line adheres
to an extraordinary standard of impeccable finishing inside and out. The
Gouverneur Automatic Calendar is
no exception.
True to form, the Caliber 800P
inside is a gorgeous mechanism.
Outside, Piaget’s designers seize upon the opportunity
to work with the tensions — and surprising harmonies
— that result from mixing the circle and the oval, a
combination that has long inspired artists. The visual
drama created by these geometric muses is reflected
subtly in the graceful arc of the Gouverneur Automatic
Calendar’s rose gold case.
A similar elliptical aesthetic also permeates the
Gouverneur Chronograph. As interplay between these
two shapes bends the eye upon the dial, it becomes difficult to judge whether the two subsidiary dials are
more definitively oval or circular. While its
design delights in visual riddles, the watch’s
mechanical composition is decidedly straightforward, providing a sophisticated combination that includes a chronograph function
supplemented with a date display and a
24-hour second time zone.
Piaget’s use of different shapes to
enhance the collection’s visual interest is echoed by the variety of
From left: The Gouverneur Automatic Calendar tells
the time and date and boasts a double barrel design
that provides an impressive 85 hours of reserve power.
Comprised of two separate movements in a single case, the
Altiplano Double Jeu opens to reveal an additional dial with a
second time zone on a 24-hour scale.
The rose gold Gouverneur Chronograph’s oval-shaped bezel provides a unique frame for the vintage layout of its chronograph
counter and second time zone display.
82
finishes it uses for the watch’s exterior. The case and sides are satinbrushed and contrast with the
otherworldly shine found on the
bezel, caseback and chronograph
pushbuttons.
ThE CIrCLE OF LIghT
Piaget captures the
beautiful interplay between light and movement within the
diamond-set bezel
of its Limelight
Dancing Light.
The hands rotate inside a fixed
circle of diamonds
that is orbited by a
mobile diamond ring.
This ring swings around
the dial in sync with the
wearer’s movement, creating an
ever-changing tableau that alters
the light in myriad ways. Though
it whirls around the circumference of the dial, the annular decoration maintains the same relationship between the two other
rings at all times. Consistently
bounded by the bezel and the border around the hands, the mobile ring
joins with the latter to form a spinning figure eight.
From top: Set with nearly 70 brilliant-cut
diamonds, Limelight Dancing Light’s
bezel surrounds another 98 brilliants
on the dial.
With the exception of its four
Arabic numerals, the Limelight
Tonneau is paved entirely in white
diamonds, nearly 1,000 in all.
LOvINg ThE LImELIghT
As Piaget’s formalwear collection, Limelight is well acquainted with
eye-catching adornment, and the Limelight Tonneau is a prime example of what is possible when the brand combines its sense of style
with its unparalleled gem-setting expertise.
Loaded with brilliant-cut white diamonds, this Limelight piece is
a wonder of shimmering luxury. The white gold case takes on a traditional, though less common, tonneau shape, and clothes itself in 86
brilliant-cut diamonds. The dial, bearing a display restricted to just
four Arabic numeral indicators in white gold, is likewise draped with diamonds, 293 in all. But the sparkle and shine does not end there. The bracelet
alone — also in white gold — is set with approximately 600 brilliant-cut
diamonds.
From suave and masculine to powerful and feminine, Piaget’s new
models uphold a proud tradition of form and function that is more than a
century old. ¨
83
rICharD mILLE
agE OF TraNS
By
SCOTT hICkEy
Ever the ICONOCLaST, rICharD mILLE is no stranger to ChaLLENgINg CONvENTION.
For more than a decade, the FrENCh FIrm has helped ExPaND the SCOPE of watchmaking
with SwISS-maDE TImEPIECES that embrace maTErIaLS and TEChNIquES cultivated
OuTSIDE CONvENTIONaL watchmaking circles.
a
s a result, its collection is constantly evolving, shaped through the years by the
company’s dedication to developing ways to increase performance. But change is
not the only constant for Richard Mille. The collection has always projected a
consistent aesthetic vision, one based on a kind of refined rawness that revels in the
streamlined elegance that is the hallmark of any great design.
The RM 056 Tourbillon Split Seconds Competition Chronograph Felipe Massa
Sapphire puts an unexpected twist on the firm’s fascination with the cutting-edge, using the latest tech to show a familiar material in a different light.
Ubiquitous in watchmaking from the 1960s, sapphire crystal is nearly as hard as
a diamond and impervious to most scratches, a toughness well suited to its role
protecting watch dials. With the RM 056, Richard Mille becomes the first to produce a multi-part case made of sapphire crystal.
Even with the benefit of the latest cutting tools, forming shapes precisely from solid blocks of sapphire is a mercurial enterprise that relies on
skill and more than a little luck. After cutting and machining parts for
more than a month, the job of finishing goes to a patient craftsman
who spends six weeks grinding and polishing to accentuate the
crystal’s natural beauty.
TEChNICaL ECSTaSy
And yet, the stunning transparent case represents only a partial
reading of the story. Another aspect is the RMCC1, a new movement
that succeeds Richard Mille’s acclaimed tourbillon split-seconds
chronograph movement. Introduced in 2004, the movement was
closely associated with Felipe Massa, the Brazilian Formula 1
driver and longtime brand ambassador.
The most noticeable difference between the generations is that the RMCC1 is 20 percent lighter than
the original. This weight reduction comes in spite of the
fact that the redesigned movement requires hundreds of
additional parts to enhance performance.
Richard Mille deploys this mechanism to great effect in
Limited to just five pieces, the watch features the
both the RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire and the RM 050
latest iteration of the brand’s acclaimed tourbillon
Felipe Massa.
movement with a split-seconds chronograph.
84
ParENCy
More than four months of cutting and
polishing are needed to create the RM 056
Felipe Massa Sapphire’s case, which is the
first multi-part case made entirely of
sapphire crystal.
rICharD mILLE
They may share the same movement, but each model projects a
distinct personality. The RM 056 is playful, using a conventional
material to create something unconventional. The reverse is true of the
RM 050, which achieves a timeless look using cutting-edge materials.
Formed by a composite infused with carbon nanotubes, the watch’s
black case is lightweight and yet measurably stronger than both steel
and carbon fiber.
Production of the RM 056 Felipe Massa Sapphire is limited to just
five pieces while the RM 050 Felipe Massa is limited to 10 pieces.
CrOwNINg aChIEvEmENTS
A clear dial focuses attention directly on the RM 037’s skeletonized automatic movement, which is the first designed entirely by the firm. Constructed
mostly in titanium, the CRMA1 includes an oversize date, function selector,
and is powered by an adjustable winding rotor.
The red gold pushers (also available in titanium or white gold) have the power
to not only adjust the calendar and set the time, but also to disengage the rotor that
winds the movement. Being able to idle the rotor makes it possible to wear the watch
while playing tennis without fear of over-winding the mainspring.
The RM 037 is also the first model to use a crown — developed and patented
by Richard Mille — that is designed to better protect the movement. By integrating the crown and case, it eliminates the need for a traditional crown
stem, an arrangement that prevents a sharp knock to the crown from damaging the movement.
CONSTaNT COmPaNION
“Bubba” Watson won the 2012 Masters Tournament in dramatic fashion,
launching a miracle hook shot out of the pines at Augusta National. It not only
paved his way to the championship, but also ranks among the most memorable
shots in the history of the tournament.
Watch enthusiasts who witnessed Watson’s unlikely run surely noticed
that he was accompanied by more than just his caddie on
the course. Indeed, a white RM 038 was a constant
companion on Watson’s left wrist. Richard Mille introduced its first signature Watson model last year.
The limited edition used a tourbillon movement
built to withstand the intense acceleration and
violent vibrations experienced while teeing off.
From top: Named for the Brazilian Formula 1 driver, the 10-piece limited
edition RM 050 Tourbillon Split Seconds Competition Chronograph Felipe
Massa is presented in a black case made of composite material infused
with carbon nanotube.
Roman numerals appear to float above the RM 37’s skeletonized movement, which is the first designed entirely by the firm. The automatic
movement features an oversize date and an adjustable winding rotor.
The RM 055 Bubba Watson succeeds the limited edition model Watson wore
during his win at the 2012 Masters. Strong and lightweight, the case’s white
bezel is made of ATZ, an ultra-hard material.
86
Watson, who has one of the most explosive swings on the pro tour, truly
put the design through its paces, wearing it all last season and proving its
ability to perform even under extreme circumstance.
On the heels of the golfer’s historic win, Richard Mille introduces
the second generation Watson watch, the RM 055 Bubba Watson. It
uses a newly designed movement that, like its predecessor, remains
unaffected by the physical stresses encountered on the golf course.
Form and function work in close harmony to fortify the white
case’s impressive durability. Its curved bezel is made of satinfinished ATZ, an advanced material that is nearly impossible to scratch
or discolor. The remainder of the case is made of titanium covered
by white rubber, a combination that feels comfortable on the wrist.
DrIvINg DESIrE
Over the years, Richard Mille and high performance car racing have
proven to be kindred spirits. Fueled by an intense desire to be the
best, both are focused on finding an edge through research. Richard
Mille taps directly into that hyper-competitive nature for two limited
edition models inspired by legendary races.
After a five-year absence, the roar of Formula 1 racing once again
thrilled fans in America as drivers competed at the 2012 Grand Prix in Austin,
Texas. In commemoration of the occasion that brought brand ambassador Felipe
Massa back to a U.S. track, Richard Mille unveiled the RM 011 Felipe Massa Flyback
Chronograph Carbon.
Optimizing visual impact, the watch’s color scheme contrasts the black
carbon case against the bright, yellow rubber strap. The dial is filled with
matching yellow accents, including a helmet icon positioned at seven
o’clock. Offered in a limited edition of 30 pieces, the timepiece is powered by a skeletonized automatic movement with an annual calendar
and flyback chronograph perfect for timing laps.
Richard Mille’s high-profile association with professional
sports dates back to the firm’s 2001 debut. One of its longest-running partnerships is with the Le Mans Classic, a vintage sports car
competition held every two years that pays tribute to the rich history of the famous 24-hour endurance race that runs every year
near Le Mans, France. This year, the company once again honors the
Le Mans Classic with the RM 011 LMC Automatic Chronograph.
The design echoes details from the race with a 24-hour counter
and a mix of blue and white reminiscent of the rumble strips that line
much of the road course. Limited to 150 pieces and presented exclusively in titanium, the watch’s skeletonized automatic movement
includes a flyback chronograph and an annual calendar.
The advanced design at the heart of these watches underscores a
principle Richard Mille shares with Formula 1: success is determined in
the garage as much as it is on the track. ¨
From top: The RM 011 LMC Automatic Chronograph is the latest
limited edition dedicated to the Le Mans Classic, a vintage sports
car competition held every two years that honors the famous
24-hour endurance race held near Le Mans, France.
Built to celebrate Formula 1’s return to America,
the limited edition RM 011 Felipe Massa Flyback
Chronograph Carbon features an annual calendar
and a flyback chronograph.
87
Roger Dubuis
Titanium surfaces contrast
with charcoal-colored rhodium
plating, a black rubber strap
and luminescent Arabic
numerals in the 44mm Pulsion
Flying Tourbillon Skeleton.
88
Family Values
By
Ken Kessler
A leader in the revival of high-end mechanical watchmaking, Roger Dubuis
emphasizes its extensive range as it organizes its collection into four
new families. Each reflects a different facet of the firm’s personality, from the intrepid Venturer and powerful Warrior
to the beguiling Diva and audacious Player.
T
he firm’s new president Georges Kern and his team were entrusted
with creating these families while at the same time upholding Roger
Dubuis’ reputation for producing exquisite movements in-house, especially
those with one or two tourbillons.
During a recent tour of the firm’s Geneva manufacture, Kern identified three challenges
the new families had to overcome in order to accurately represent the Roger Dubuis ethos.
He started with the Geneva Seal, a Dubuis tradition he felt should not only be maintained, but
should also serve as the standard for of every watch the company produces. “The first element is explaining to the consumer the honor of earning the Geneva Seal,” he said. The seal is issued by the Canton of Geneva
to a manufacturing elite, a guarantee that the watch operates correctly, its mechanical watch movement is handmade, assembled, and regulated in Geneva, and it complies with the seal’s
strict requirements.
Of the remaining challenges he said: “The second was to come up with a
design that corresponds with the intrinsic character of the Roger Dubuis
brand. The third was to create the dream and emotion in our communication, something which is truly unique and relevant for our clients.”
The familial quartet has not only met Kern’s criteria for success,
but has done so while keeping sacred the essence of Roger Dubuis.
WEB OF INTRIGUE
With the Pulsion Flying Tourbillon Skeleton, the firm delivers
a timepiece in the Venturer segment that remains unmistakably
a descendant of the first Roger Dubuis models, while exhibiting
modernism true to 21st century tastes and practices.
Unlike skeleton watches of the past, which were based on
existing movements drilled out to create a spider-web
effect, the Pulsion’s movement was conceived from the
outset to possess the see-through topography
that makes skeleton watches so entrancing.
Its 44mm titanium case is treated with
Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) to
Visible through the dial,
complement its black rubber
the engine-turned bridges stand
strap, rather sporty attire
out against the black details of the
for such a refined
Pulsion Chronograph, which features the
movement.
new automatic RD680 movement in a 44mm case.
89
Roger Dubuis
A sapphire crystal screwed directly into the bezel protects the flying tourbillon located at the 7:30 position. Cleverly, to create added depth, its numerals are engraved under the crystal and filled with a white luminescent
material. While the presence of a tourbillon signals to watch aficionados
a timepiece of complexity and precision, the rugged housing and superlative construction will ensure its survival in most circumstances,
including protection from the ingress of water to a depth of 100m.
Clearly it is a movement that deserves to be on show. Treated in
anthracite to match the titanium case, the movement adds to the case’s
contrasts with its alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces.
STRIKING A BALANCE
Also part of the Venturer family, the Pulsion Chronograph
addresses another tradition that dates back to the brand’s birth.
Roger Dubuis chronographs are distinguished by large but closely
set counters, seen here with an open dial for a view of the movement — a happy medium between a conventional dial and a skeleton.
The Pulsion Chronograph features a 44mm case in either rose gold
or titanium treated with DLC. The sapphire crystal segues into the bezel
and features numerals engraved under the crystal and filled with luminescent material.
Roger Dubuis’ artistry is embodied in the act of balancing the legibility
of the chronograph’s subdials with exposed sections that reveal the bridges of
the movement below. The dial’s layers provide all of the necessary time-keeping
information, while revealing the distinctive côtes de Genève pattern on the
visible surfaces.
In keeping with the Venturer spirit, the sporting proficiency of the Pulsion
Chronograph is assured by water resistance to 100m, guaranteeing the protection of the column-wheel movement and its micro-rotor.
MAKE MINE A DOUBLE
Roger Dubuis’ sporting side also defines the Excalibur Double Flying Tourbillon Skeleton, which is part of the Warrior family. As
has been evident throughout the different families, respect for the
past is a given. For this magnificent creation, Roger Dubuis refers back to its classic models with two flying tourbillons.
Appearing in this modern, ultra-chic guise, the Excalibur
Double Flying Tourbillon Skeleton addresses the passion for
subdued haute horlogerie and a resistance to flashiness with an
all-black 45mm titanium case that begs the adjective “stealthy.”
Light but strong, it protects the exceptional manual-winding
skeleton movement. Water resistance is assured to 50m, as is
exclusivity with production limited to 88 pieces.
From top: Pulsion Chronograph, shown here in rose gold, is secure
against water to 100m.
The blackened titanium 45mm Double Flying Tourbillon Skeleton is
the world’s only watch to contain two tourbillons in a completely
exposed movement.
90
Left: From the Velvet collection,
this model’s white gold case
with diamonds provides
beautiful cover for an automatic movement produced
in-house by Roger Dubuis.
Below: The rose gold case and
matching bracelet of this Velvet
Jewellery model is embellished
with 262 diamonds that weigh
approximately three carats.
DIVINE GRACE
“Something for the ladies” is a modest way of describing the Diva family
of timepieces, for only a woman’s wristwatch could bear the name
Velvet Jewellery.
To form the collection’s daring aesthetic personality, Roger
Dubuis’ jewelers balance contrasting elements that are bold
and feminine, contemporary and classical, as well as subtle and extravagant. To provide a reference to Roger
Dubuis traditions, the Velvet Jewellery dial features
the elongated, Art Deco-styled Roman numerals that
the brand revived in the ’90s. They create a tromp
l’oeil effect, tricking the eye into imagining that the
36mm round case is ovoid.
Within is a testament to the ever-increasing
number of female watch connoisseurs who are as
concerned about the quality of the movement as
they are about the case and dial that enclose it.
The Velvet Jewellery models are powered by automatic mechanical movements designed, developed
and produced in-house. And like their masculine
counterparts, every watch in this family boasts the
Geneva Seal.
As befits fine timepieces destined for women’s
wrists, the Velvet collection includes gem-enhanced bezels on white gold and rose gold models that come on
bracelets or straps. Those who adore “a girl’s best friend”
will be seduced by the fine jewelry model, which is finished
with 1,300 diamonds that weigh approximately eight carats.
And for the boldest of women, there’s a limited edition accented with amethysts and spinels that redefines the concept
of one’s “little black number.”
With Roger Dubuis’ Diva, Warrior, Venturer and Player collections, the Genevan house brings four families under one roof. And
while each projects distinctive styling, they all stand united behind
the exceptional workmanship of their Geneva Seal movements. ¨
91
uLySSE NarDIN
time
of their oWn
By
One of the LEaDINg PraCTITIONErS
of modern watchmaking as hIgh arT,
uLySSE NarDIN is the arChITECT of an
ambITIOuS hOrOLOgICaL POrTFOLIO
that includes the PErENNIaLLy aSTONIShINg FrEak and the groundbreaking
TrILOgy OF TImE collection. The SwISS
FIrm unveils a NEw IN-hOuSE mOvEmENT this year that keeps it in POSITION
as one of waTChmakINg’S LEaDINg
CENTErS of TEChNICaL INNOvaTION.
I
n today’s fast-moving watch world, it’s
no longer enough to just keep
abreast of the competition. Another factor to consider is the
expectations of connoisseurs,
who have increasingly
come to expect amazing
new watches every year.
This poses a difficult
challenge for any watch
brand, which typically
needs between three to
five years to develop a
new timepiece.
To m a s t e r t h e s e
forces means constantly
upping your game. And
that’s just what Ulysse Nardin has done with the Marine
Chronometer Manufacture —
a game-changer of a timepiece that
puts the firm in a whole new league.
92
JaCk FOrSTEr
DECLaraTION OF INDEPENDENCE
A little historical context: Ulysse Nardin was one of
Switzerland’s most famous manufacturers of marine
chronometers. In the days before GPS or radio-beaconaided navigation, a marine chronometer was essential
equipment for travelling the seas. So much so, in fact,
that the race to develop the first marine chronometers
was literally an arms race, as great seafaring nations
used them until the early part of the 20th century for
naval supremacy.
An enduring favorite in Ulysse Nardin’s collection,
the Marine Chronometer wristwatch takes its design
cues from the boxed marine chronometers the firm
made in decades past. While they’ve always been strikingly handsome watches, with accurate,
fine-tuned Swiss movements, the
Marine Chronometer Manufacture represents a quantum leap
for the company.
Fueling that substantial jump is the movement known as UN1 1 8 . I t ’s n o t q u i t e
Ulysse Nardin’s first
in-house automatic
movement. That honor
goes to the UN-160,
which debuted in 2006
in two limited edition
timepieces and used the
The Marine Chronometer
Manufacture’s new in-house
UN 118 automatic movement
features diamond and silicon
regulating components.
This special version with a rose gold case and
fired enamel dial is limited to just 350 pieces.
uLySSE NarDIN
famous Dual Ulysse escapement. The UN-118 is designed
to both bolster the company’s independence and give it
access to a top-tier, multipurpose, highly robust engine
for its watches. Or, what watchmakers in the Frenchspeaking part of Switzerland refer to as, a tracteur
(tractor). It is, after all, an ultra-reliable machine that
can pull more than its own weight.
Special features of the calibre UN-118 include
Ulysse Nardin’s DIAmonSIL escapement, which uses a
silicon balance spring that is unaffected by magnetism,
as well as an escape wheel and lever made with diamond and silicon, materials that are both lighter and
more efficient than conventional steel parts. Unlike the
components in most other watches, these require no lubrication. This represents a victory over the gradual deterioration of oils in a movement, which plays a major
role in the decline of a watch’s accuracy.
Ulysse Nardin is producing three versions of the
Marine Chronometer Manufacture. The first is a limited
edition of 350 pieces presented in rose gold with a beautiful grand feu enamel dial, another homage to vintage
marine chronometers. The other versions are titanium
with a gold bezel or a combination of stainless steel
and titanium.
The Sonata
Streamline
re-imagines the
original Sonata
design while
remaining the
world’s only cathedral gong alarm
watch with a 24-hour
countdown timer. Two
44mm versions are available,
titanium with rose gold
elements and a black ceramic
bezel (shown), or titanium with
rose gold elements, including
the bezel.
muSICaL mEmOry
Ulysse Nardin is also famous for its exotic chiming
watches, which are often combined with miniature
moving figurines known as jaquemarts, or “striking
jacks” as English watchmakers called them. However,
one of its most innovative watches is an alarm watch
named the Sonata. Most alarm watches make do with a
rather nasal buzz created by a hammer hitting a pin soldered to the inside of the case. The Sonata, however, is
constructed like a minute repeater and sounds its melodious alert on a gong in a way similar to that revered
high complication. It’s also the only mechanical watch
with a 24-hour countdown timer.
Ulysse Nardin presents a new version of the Sonata
called the Sonata Streamline. Unlike previous versions, which have had an almost ethereal elegance,
Ulysse Nardin says the Sonata Streamline takes inspiration from the dynamic designs found in the world of
super yachts. Although, the name also evokes the powerful yet graceful “Streamliner” steam locomotives of
the 1930s. The Sonata Streamline’s black ceramic bezel
frames an attention-grabbing dial done in black, gold
and white. For a different look, the titanium and rose
gold case is also offered with a rose gold bezel.
Sky abOvE, SEa bELOw
The Sonata has a big date and dual time zone indication, a combination that makes it a fantastic choice for the frequent flyer. But for the
really obsessive-compulsive jet setter, may we recommend the El Toro
Perpetual Calendar. The name gives you the basic plot — it’s a perpetual calendar, dual time zone watch — but not the whole story. Bear
in mind that making user-friendly perpetual calendars is something of
an obsession with Ulysse Nardin. The two pushers set into the flanks
of the rose gold case can be used to set the hour hand forward or backward in one-hour increments as one crosses time zones. Meanwhile,
the perpetual calendar will always stay perfectly integrated with the
time display, even if you have to adjust the time before or after the
midnight hour.
For the traveler looking for a highly legible and functional dual
time zone watch with personality to spare, there’s the Executive Dual
Time with a blue dial, stainless steel case and scratchproof ceramic bezel. Like its more complicated sibling, the El Toro Perpetual, it’s designed with easeof-use and readability uppermost in mind. It
underscores this approach with three elements:
a big date display; pushers on the left side for
moving the hour hand forward or backward;
and an unobtrusive but instantly readable, digital 24-hour home time display.
Ulysse Nardin first established its
name creating chronometers to make
navigating the surface of the ocean
possible. Today, it also makes watches
for going beneath the waves as well.
The aptly named Blue Sea is the newest
watch in the Marine Diver Chronometer
collection. It is richly decked out in blue
livery that includes luminous material on
the dial and hands, a custom-blued winding
rotor and movement, and a case clad in textured rubber armor. And with
a water resistance of 200
meters, this limited edition watch (999 pieces
worldwide) is a true-blue
diver’s watch.
With its new inhouse movement leading
the way, Ulysse Nardin’s
offerings in 2012 exude the
technical prowess and cuttingedge design that continue to make
it one of the world’s most exclusive,
intriguing and visually compelling
brands. ¨
Clockwise from top: The traveler’s best friend,
the Executive Dual Time in stainless steel
offers equal parts bold design and ultrapractical engineering.
The Blue Sea presents the firm’s classic
Marine Diver Chronometer in a stunning,
blue interpretation richly evocative
of the mysteries of the deep.
The El Toro Perpetual Calendar
features one of the world’s most
easy-to-use perpetual calendar
and dual time zone complications.
Its 43mm rose gold case is topped
with a blue ceramic bezel.
vaChErON CONSTaNTIN
maeStro
of time
vaChErON CONSTaNTIN orchestrates
CLaSSICaL FOrmS and CONTEmPOrary
mEThODS with the skill of a vIrTuOSIC
COmPOSEr to create an hOrOLOgICaL
SymPhONy that is as uNFOrgETTabLE
as a haunting melody. The gENEvaN
manufacture expands its rEPErTOIrE
this year with aDDITIONS to several
SIgNaTurE COLLECTIONS.
T
he Patrimony Traditionnelle
14-Day Tourbillon is a tour
de force that brings together much of what the
world’s oldest continuous
watchmaker does best. Namely, creating an aesthetic that
projects sophisticated simplicity in a way that provides
sublime subterfuge for the
complicated movement within.
Baton-shaped hour markers and a railroad-style minute
track give the silver-toned opaline
dial a geometric balance while the
watch’s special features play visual counterpoint with well-placed curves. Near the top, an arcshaped display measures the movement’s 14-day power
reserve, a remarkable amount of energy that is generated by a system of four barrels.
By
SCOTT hICkEy
raISINg ThE bar
Despite its position on the dial’s lower half, the tourbillon is truly the center of attention. Viewed through a
circular opening on the dial, it performs its role with
precision and élan. The tourbillon cage, which resembles Vacheron Constantin’s trademark Maltese cross,
rotates continuously as it protects the watch’s chronometric accuracy against the effects of gravity. A thin
hand rotates above, marking off the seconds on the segmented ring that encircles the mechanism.
Turning the 42mm rose gold case over sheds light
on an aspect central to the watch’s identity.
The newly developed Calibre 2260
movement is the first produced by
Vacheron Constantin to earn the
Geneva Seal under its new, more
comprehensive requirements.
To mark its 125-year anniversary in 2011, the Geneva
Seal updated its criteria by
expanding its parameters
from just the movement to the
entire watch. That extends —
for the first time — to mechanical performance as well. To
be certified now, a watch must
pass an accuracy test after being
subjected to a machine that simulates
regular wear. What remains unchanged about
this esteemed distinction is that to qualify, a watch
must be assembled, adjusted and cased-up in the city or
canton of Geneva, something Vacheron Constantin
has done since its founding.
The manually wound movement is just over one-inch wide, but contains four mainsprings
that, if stretched continuously from end-to-end, would be more than seven-feet long.
96
The rose gold Patrimony Traditionnelle
14-Day Tourbillon’s exquisite finishing
and exceptional performance
have earned it the prestigious
Geneva Seal under its
new, more extensive
guidelines.
vaChErON CONSTaNTIN
DISCIPLINED DESIgN
In the early 18th century, the dynamic flowing lines that epitomized the Art Nouveau movement cracked like whips across everything from advertising to architecture. The ripples of influence even reached watch design, giving rise to the
tonneau case. In the decades since, this curvaceous creation has proved immune to shifts in fashion to earn its place as a timeless horological form.
Vacheron Constantin was among the first to recognize the beauty of
the barrel-shaped case, introducing its first in 1912. To commemorate
this centennial, the firm has redesigned the signature tonneau case featured in its Malte line by making its curves even more pronounced.
Made to resonate with horological purists, the Malte Small
Seconds embraces technical restraint in a way that liberates its
design. By removing any hint of the extraneous, all that remains is a
thoughtful statement about the essence of watchmaking. Every detail
has been carefully chosen to amplify its impact, from the painted
small seconds to the contrasting finishes on the central minute and
hour hands.
To power the Malte Small Seconds, Vacheron Constantin uses
Calibre 4400AS, a manually wound movement produced in-house
that epitomizes its legacy of craftsmanship and precision. Both the
quality of the finishing and reliability of its performance have
Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 100-year
been independently verified by Geneva Seal inspectors, who certianniversary of its first tonneau case with a
fied the movement under the organization’s new guidelines.
newly redesigned rose gold Malte Small Seconds.
INFINITE arTISTry
In the realm of manufacturing mechanical movements, Vacheron Constantin’s
credentials are beyond reproach. Its capacity for creativity on the other side
of the dial, however, is what elevates its watches to greatness.
Nowhere is this more obvious than within Métiers d’Art, a collection of timepieces that serve as a canvas for Vacheron Constantin’s in-house métiers d’art
workshop, which comprises an exceptional group of decorative artists whose
members specialize in such time-honored crafts as enameling, gemsetting, engraving and guilloché.
In recent Métiers d’Art watches, those skills were employed to create exceptional works of art such as the Tribute to Grand Explorers
series in enamel and Les Masques, which featured primitive tribal
masks reproduced on dials. The tradition continues this year with
Les Univers Infinis (or Infinite Universes), a new series inspired
by Dutch graphic artist M.C. Escher, a master of tessellation,
which is the art of combining interlocking smaller forms to
create a larger pattern.
One standout is the Les Univers Infinis – Fish. The beautiful
rendering of these aquatic creatures on the white gold dial begins
Inspired by a tessellation motif created by graphic artist M.C. Escher, the Metiers
d’Art Les Univers Infinis – Fish boasts a superb combination of guilloché work
and cloisonné enameling. Only 20 of these watches will be produced.
with a guillocheur, who cuts every
tiny detail by hand. To color the fish
blue and gray, an enameller uses a
process called cloisonné. First, a
fine gold wire is shaped by hand
to form an outline of every fish.
Then, each is filled with
enamel and fired in an oven.
This step is repeated until
the right color saturation
is achieved, a process
that relies heavily on
both the enameller’s experience and intuition.
The dial is featured
in a 40mm white gold case
and paired with an automatic movement that was created in-house and stamped
with the Geneva Seal. Because of
the amount of work each requires,
production of the Fish watch is
limited to just 20 pieces.
Left: The popular Overseas Chronograph
model now comes with a blue lacquered
dial as a reminder of the Overseas’
nautical roots. The screw-down
crown and pushers help
ensure the watch’s water
resistance to almost 500 feet.
Below: The rose gold Overseas Chronograph Perpetual
Calendar is the first serially
produced Overseas watch to
include a high complication.
While the top three subdials
display the namesake functions, the other combines a moon
phase and small seconds.
brOaDENINg ThE hOrIzON
Built for action, the Overseas collection counterbalances the traditional
side of Vacheron’s Constantin’s personality with a sporty brio. A pure expression of this spirit enlivens the
Overseas Chronograph. This popular
model is now offered with a blue lacquered dial to complement its 42mm stainless steel case. The satin-finished
sections that run along the middle of the bracelet subtly
reinforce the notion that this watch is made for a life on
the move, suggesting what could be seen as a road or runway heading off into the distant horizon.
The firm combines the ultimate sports complication
with one of the most intriguing high complications for its
Overseas Chronograph Perpetual Calendar. This model,
which is being produced serially for the first time, comes in a
42mm rose gold case.
By their very natures, both complications require multiple
displays. Despite this, the light gray dial remains uncluttered
thanks to a clever design that combines the chronograph counters
with the various calendar indications. There’s even enough room
for a fourth subdial that unites a small seconds with a moon phase.
With each of these new timepieces, Vacheron Constantin continues to do what it has done so passionately and prolifically for more
than 250 years, that is to express time in timeless ways. ¨
99
zENITh
neW altitUde
ELISE
NuSSbaum
By
Creator of bOLD DESIgNS, arbiter of ChrONOmETrIC PrECISION, and pioneer in some of
the most extreme environments of the 20th
century, zENITh builds upon its STOrIED
PaST with new models that LOOk TO
ThE FuTurE. Always a favorite of pilots,
Zenith repays the compliment with its
NEw PILOT COLLECTION, a line that
hearkens back to the SharED hISTOry of an impossible dream
and a manufacture for which
NOThINg IS ImPOSSIbLE.
Available exclusively in a titanium case, the Pilot Montre
d’Aeronef Type 20’s crown is grooved, a feature that allows
a pilot to set the time without removing his gloves.
100
T
he early history of aviation was
inextricably bound up with that
of horology, and Zenith in
particular played an important
role in the new era in which men
(and sometimes women) took to
the skies. Instruments on airplanes faced a set of challenges that earthbound
pieces did not, including
extreme variations in
temperature, varying
magnetic fields and the
vibrations of the aircraft itself. Absolute
reliability and perfect
readability were musts,
while appealing aesthetics
were a welcome grace note.
Left: The epitome of form and
function, the 42mm stainless steel
Pilot Big Date Special delivers
precision with Zenith’s El Primero
movement.
Below: The Pilot Doublematic
boasts several functions on its
easy-to-read dial, including world
time, 30-minute chronograph, large
date and central alarm hand.
CONquErINg ThE SkIES
Zenith’s new Pilot collection
evokes those early days, when
flying was something best left to
the daring adventurers and devilmay-care pioneers. The Pilot Montre
d’Aeronef Type 20 commands attention like a fighter jet swooping across
an otherwise placid sky. Within it beats
the classic manual-winding 5011K movement, originally
developed in 1939 as a cockpit instrument. To date, this exceptional caliber has garnered an astounding 277 awards for
precision.
The exterior is no less compelling. Available in a limited
edition of 250 titanium models, the Type 20’s generous 57.5mm
diameter proffers a broad canvas on which to present luminescent numerals and hands that serve up the time at a glance,
even at night. The contrast of these elements against the
black dial adds to the vintage military feel and ensures legibility. Balanced in perfect equilibrium, the small seconds
and power reserve indicator further enhance that clarity.
TO bE PrECISE
Later eras delivered no fewer challenges. Would-be pioneers, knowing
that simply defying gravity was no longer as dangerous or impressive, brazened ever-more challenging endeavors, requiring timekeepers that could
withstand extreme changes in temperature and altitude, intense acceleration
and all the other natural shocks that timepieces are heir to. One particularly
gifted Zenith chronograph became a mainstay of the Italian Navy in 1960 —
a much-esteemed model that inspired the new Pilot Big Date Special.
101
zENITh
The dial’s crisply divided minute track enables the smallest of
measurements, and marked-off tracks grace both the small seconds
counter at nine o’clock and the 30-minute counter at three o’clock,
underscoring Zenith’s reputation for precision. From its low vantage
point, the eponymous big date dominates the scene outside as the
El Primero Calibre 4010 leads from within.
JET-SETTINg SavOIr-FaIrE
As the 20th century progressed and air travel became increasingly
common, watches had to fulfill the modern traveler’s demand to be on
time — anywhere in the world. The Pilot Doublematic grants this
wish with a valuable “world time” function. One disc encircles the dial
with the names of 24 reference cities, while an adjacent concentric
circle displays the time complete with a day/night indicator. The
watch also includes a 30-minute chronograph counter at three o’clock,
large date and an alarm with indications of its own. This alarm is
remarkable for its impressive chime, which continues to ring for
almost 30 seconds. Two barrels power the Pilot Doublematic, one for
the movement and the other dedicated solely to the alarm function.
The 45mm case, in rose gold or brushed and polished stainless
steel, reveals the automatic El Primero 4046 movement through its
sapphire crystal caseback.
exceptionally precise, and Zenith’s El
Primero Chronograph 1969 uses this
precision in the service of the world’s
most popular complication. The El Primero 4061 powers two chronograph models, one encased in stainless steel and the
other in rose gold. Each conveys a distinct personality that interacts with the
activity on the watch’s face.
The El Primero’s signature blue and
black tones bring a visual dynamism to
the dial in overlapping chronograph
counters, evoking the original El Primero
chronograph. A uniquely shaped opening
at ten o’clock suggests overlapping ripples in a disturbed pool, almost as if the
makINg wavES
Zenith had a banner year in 1969 with the introduction of the
brand’s first in-house movement, the El Primero. Beating
at 5 Hz, or 36,000 vibrations per hour, the El Primero is
The rose gold El Primero Chronograph 1969’s contrasting
blue and black chronograph counters stand out against
its silver sunray dial.
102
Also available in stainless steel, the El Primero Chronograph
1969 reveals its El Primero 4061 movement through the
cutout on the dial and the sapphire crystal caseback.
movement — the El Primero 4061 — was
making waves upon the dial. A star-tipped
central chronograph hand — red on the
stainless steel model and blue on the rose
gold version — completes the complementary color scheme.
SuN, mOON aND STarS
Zenith’s iconic in-house movement is on
view once again with the El Primero
Chronomaster Open Grande Date
Moon & Sunphase. It incorporates a
column-wheel chronograph, small seconds, tachymeter, large date, moon phase
and a day/night indicator Zenith has dubbed a “sunphase.” Available in
rose gold or stainless steel, this piece combines a solid grasp of classical
watchmaking aesthetics with a willingness to mix things up a little.
The moon phase finds its artistry enhanced by the sunphase that
accompanies it. Two discs occupy the same spot, each one turning on
its own celestial timeline. The moon phase disc is traditional but
transparent, making a full rotation once every 59 days. Behind it, the
sunphase disc rotates over 24 hours, depicting the sky either sunlit for
day or starry for night.
STrONg, SILENT TyPE
Fixing its sights firmly on traditional territory, Zenith’s El Primero
Espada stakes a claim to the discerning gentleman’s wrist. Powered
by the El Primero 4650 B, the Espada takes the most essential functions of a watch and buffs them to a high shine. With classical elegance, the stainless steel case and black dial play host to discreet
rhodium hour indexes and hands, supplemented by a minute track
running along the bezel. The Espada is currently the only highfrequency El Primero non-chronograph to feature three hands, each of
which include luminescent touches for nighttime readability. A date
indicator completes the look of this masculine 40mm watch, whose
name means “sword” in Portuguese.
Maintaining its adventurous reputation, Zenith boldly
experiments with different sizes, materials, aesthetics and
inspirations, delighting its many fans with an emphasis on
the cornerstones of horology and a strong sense of style. ¨
One of the defining details of the El Primero Chronomaster Open Grand
Date Moon & Sunphase is the crescent-shaped opening near the bottom
of the dial. It is where the day/night indicator revolves once a day behind
the transparent moon phase disc.
The 40mm stainless steel El Primero Espada
projects quiet confidence with a look that
demonstrates Zenith’s firm command of
classic watchmaking traditions.
103
a glossary of horological terms
GLossary
1. ANNUAL CALENDAR
1a 1b
A calendar function that automatically
compensates for the irregular lengths
of months. It requires, however, an
annual adjustment every February,
hence the name.
2. AUTOMATIC (or SELF-WINDING)
This complication replaces manual
winding in wristwatches by converting
the wearer’s everyday motions into
stored energy, which powers the mechanical movement. A winding box may
also be used to achieve the same results.
For both methods, the motion spins a rotor connected to the movement, which
generates energy by tightening the mainspring. It’s also worth noting that an automatic movement may also be wound
using the crown.
2 3a
ClockWise
3. BALANCE
104
Similar to the pendulum in a pendulum
clock, this regulating mechanism ensures
a steady timekeeping rate in wristwatches. Comprised of a balance spring fixed
to a weighted balance wheel, the device
is connected to the mainspring. When the
mainspring releases energy, it swings the
balance wheel in one direction, called an
oscillation, which tightens the balance
spring. When the balance spring releases
this stored energy, it propels the balance
wheel back an equal distance in the opposite direction, transferring energy to
the drivetrain, which powers the watch
movement. The balance’s precise backand-forth motion divides time into equal
parts and is the source of the watch’s signature “tick-tock.”
3b 4
4. BARREL
This cylindrical receptacle is lined with
teeth around its circumference. It holds
the mainspring, which is attached at one
end to the barrel and at the other to the
arbor (axle) on which the barrel turns.
Winding the watch turns the barrel,
which increases the mainspring’s tension. After winding, the mainspring releases the energy that powers the watch
movement.
1a. Tonda Retrograde Annual Calendar by Parmigiani Fleurier
1b. Rotonde de Cartier Annual Calendar by Cartier
2. Saxonia Automatic by A. Lange & Söhne
3a. Portuguese Automatic by IWC
3b. Double Balance Spring assembly by Audemars Piguet
4. Double-barrel by Audemars Piguet
5. CaDraTurE
5. 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time by Girard-Perregaux
6. Calibre 9402 MC by Cartier
7. Big Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN Miramar by IWC
The mechanism located directly behind
the dial that rotates the hands.
8. Polo FortyFive by Piaget
6. CaLIbEr (Or CaLIbrE)
9. Marine Chronometer Manufacture by Ulysse Nardin
Originally referred to the measurement
of the watch movement, but modern usage indicates a type of movement i.e.
men’s caliber, automatic caliber. Watchmakers can use the caliber name and
number to indicate the company, shape
and origin.
10. Column wheel by Vacheron Constantin
5 6
7. CEramIC
This material is used in watchmaking,
primarily for case production. Valued
for its qualities, ceramic is 30 percent
lighter than steel, virtually scratchproof,
impervious to rust and smooth to the
touch.
7 8
8. ChrONOgraPh
A watch with a manually operated stopwatch function that measures intervals
of time.
In addition to the basic chronograph,
there are two other popular versions:
-Flyback: allows instant re-set of the
timing function.
-Split-second: allows simultaneous timing of two events that begin at the same
time but end at different times.
9. ChrONOmETEr
9 10
A timepiece that is precise enough to be
used as a time standard. Under Swiss regulations, only watches that have been
tested and certified by authorities such as
the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) can be called a chronometer.
10. COLumN whEEL
Used in high-quality chronograph movements, this toothed wheel coordinates the
chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions. A traditional design, the column
wheel is more labor-intensive to produce
than other styles of chronographs.
105
GLossary
11. COMPLICATION
11a 11b
Any function in a manual-winding movement watch or clock additional to the
display of hours, minutes and seconds
including: automatic winding, date, calendar, moon phase, power reserve and
GMT, to name a few. The ultimate or
grand complications typically combine:
split-second chronograph, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and minute repeater.
12. Côtes de Genève
(or Geneva Stripes)
12 13
Created by a rose engine lathe, this pattern of undulating waves is used frequently to decorate movements found in
fine timepieces.
13. DEPLOYMENT BUCKLE
A tri-folding enclosure affixed to both
ends of a strap or bracelet. When fully
deployed, enough room is created to place
the watch on the wrist. When closed, a
14a 14b
buckle covers the folding mechanism that
secures the watch to the wrist.
14. DUAL TIME ZONE (or GMT)
This complication allows a watch to display two or more time zones simultaneously. While watchmakers use many different ways to display the dual time zone
function, one of the most popular methods uses an additional hour hand. Timepieces with a dual time zone function
are sometimes called GMT watches. This
refers to Greenwich Mean Time, the
mean solar time for the meridian located at Greenwich, England. This time
is used as the basis for calculating time
throughout most of the world.
106
11a. RM 056 by RIchard Mille
11b. Grand Complication Skeleton Pocket Watch by Cartier
12. Pershing CBF Chronograph by Parmigiani Fleurier
13. Cellini’s exclusive deployment buckles in 18-karat gold
14a. Meridian Dual Time by H. Moser & Cie.
14b. Executive Dual Time by Ulysse Nardin
15 16
15. EquaTION OF TImE
A complication that calculates the difference between the mean solar day
which lasts 24 hours, and the true solar
day, whose length varies from the mean
solar day between +16.24 and -14.22
minutes throughout the year due to the
tilt of the Earth’s axis and the eccentricity of its orbit around the sun.
16. ESCaPEmENT
17 18a
The component of a mechanical watch
that is responsible for the advancement
of the wheel train rotation and the even
passage of time. The escapement in a
watch is usually controlled by the balance wheel.
17. FLEurIEr quaLITy
FOuNDaTION (FqF)
An independent group based in the village of Fleurier, Switzerland dedicated
to evaluating watches made anywhere
in Switzerland. To be certified by the
FQF, a watch must pass rigorous tests
related to chronometry and durability,
and also exhibit superlative finishing.
18b 19
18. gENEva SEaL
Available exclusively to watch movements made in the City or Canton of Geneva, this insignia certifies that a movement has satisfied a list of criteria
related to both aesthetics and performance. The Geneva School of Watchmaking serves as the independent judge
charged with inspecting each watch and
awarding this prestigious accolade to
those that meet the necessary requirements.
15. 1966 Annual Calendar and Equation of Time by Girard-Perregaux
19. GuILLOcHÉ
16. Illustration of Lange 31 escapement by A. Lange & Söhne
An engraving technique that results
in very fine lines etched onto a flat, level
surface. Brands often express personality and creativity by decorating dials
and movements with beautifully intricate patterns of guilloché.
17. Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
18a. Geneva Seal logo
18b. Double Flying Tourbillon Skeleton by Roger Dubuis
19. Rendez-Vous by Jaeger-LeCoultre
107
GLossary
20. JEWELS
Precious stones (usually synthetic
rubies) used in a watch movement that
act as bearings for pivots and help reduce friction. Most movements contain
at least a dozen jewels but can feature
more.
21. JUMPING HOUR
20. Calibre 2260 by Vacheron Constantin
21. Rotonde de Cartier Jumping Hours by Cartier
22a. Chopard Manufacture, Fleurier, Switzerland
22b. Cartier Manufacture, La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
23. Pulsion Chronograph by Roger Dubuis
24. 1966 Minute Repeater by Girard-Perregaux
20 21
A watch that advances the time by
“jumping” to the next hour, usually
through a digital display window. Jumping hour watches use mechanical movements with numbers on wheels below
the dial that change as time advances.
The numbers appear to change instantaneously every hour.
22. MANUFACTURE
A term the Swiss watch industry uses to
distinguish a company that produces a
watch from start to finish, instead of
sending it to a finishing shop where the
parts are assembled and calibrated.
22a 22b
23. Micro Rotor
Invented in the 1950s, this smaller version of the traditional oscillating weight
is used to wind the mainspring in some
automatic watches. Its diminutive size
results in a thinner movement.
24. MINUTE REPEATER
A mechanical watch that indicates the
hours, quarter hours and minutes with
sound by striking a series of gongs
integrated into the watch movement. A
minute repeater strikes the time on demand when a button or slide on the case
i s pus he d. Th e comp lication fir st
emerged in watches in the 1700s and is
an heir to the repeating clock, which was
invented in the 17th century to tell time
in the dark prior to the use of electric
lights. Today, minute repeaters remain
one of the most complex watch complications to produce.
108
23 24
25 26
25. MOON PHASE
This complication calculates and displays the lunar cycle. Many moon phases advance once every 24 hours, which
requires that they be adjusted every two
and a half years. More complex models
do not require adjustments for hundreds
of years.
26. PAVÉ
Gems set as closely together as possible
27a 27b
in order to conceal a metal base.
27. PERPETUAL CALENDAR
A calendar function that calculates and
displays the date, day, month and leap
year without any adjustment by the user.
This remains true until the year 2100,
when there is no leap year due to the
Gregorian calendar. All watches record
time, the moments that make up a day,
but perpetual calendars keep track of all
28 29
of those days. Depending on the watch,
there are many different types of indicators that display the specific day, date
and month.
28. POWER RESERVE
This function measures and displays the
amount of power stored in the mainspring.
29. REGULATOR
25. DB25QPW by De Bethune
26. Limelight Tonneau XL by Piaget
27a. Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar by A. Lange & Söhne
A clock or wristwatch that displays the
hours, minutes and seconds separately.
Sometimes called a parent clock, manu-
27b. L.U.C Lunar One by Chopard
facturers used to set their timepieces to
28. Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche by Jaeger-LeCoultre
precise regulators because the separate
29. H1 by HYT
displays were easy to read, making for
exact adjustments.
109
GLossary
30. RETROGRADE
A hand that travels across the dial in an
arc — usually from 90 to 180 degrees —
instead of a 360-degree revolution around
a centrally fixed point. When a retrograde
hand finishes its journey across the dial,
it returns instantaneously to begin a new
measurement. Retrograde hands can indicate date, day or month in perpetual
calendars, but can also be used for hours,
minutes or seconds.
30. Half Time by Ludovic Ballouard
31. Caliber L.U.C 96.13-L by Chopard
32. Caliber UN 106 with silicium hairspring by Ulysse Nardin
33a. RM 037 by Richard Mille
33b. Pulsion Flying Tourbillon Skeleton by Roger Dubuis
34. El Primero Chronomaster Open Grande Date Moon & Sunphase by Zenith
30 31
31. Rotor
(or OSCILLATING WEIGHT)
Found in a watch with automatic winding, this semicircular weight — powered
by the owner’s physical movements —
rotates to tighten the mainspring, which
stores reserve energy.
32. SILICON (or SILICIUM)
32 33a
An element used in watchmaking to create everything from escapement wheels
to balance springs. Prized for its properties, silicon is lightweight, anti-magnetic, resists corrosion and does not require
lubrication.
33. SKELETON
A watch movement that is transparent
or cut out in a decorative manner in
order to reveal all of the movement’s
parts. Traditional watch dials display
the current functions of time, date or
day for a specific moment in time. A skeletal dial further reveals the watch’s
movement and how its mechanism calculates on-going time.
34. Tachymeter
A scale that often accompanies a chronograph or timer that measures speed.
A tachymeter usually indicates speed in
kilometers per hour.
110
33b 34
35a 35b
35. TOurbILLON
Sometimes referred to as a ‘whirlwind,’
the tourbillon counteracts the effects of
gravity on the balance and escapement
thus aiding better accuracy. This is
achieved by housing the balance, balance spring and escapement in a rotating carriage (cage). Invented for the pocket watch by Abraham-Louis Breguet in
1801, the tourbillon remains a popular
complication.
36. TraIN (Or gOINg TraIN)
36 37
A system of toothed wheels and pinions
used to convey energy stored in the mainspring to the escapement.
37. vIbraTION
38 39
A measurement that indicates the number of semi-oscillations (half turns)
made by a balance wheel; usually expressed in terms of vibrations per hour
(vph). Faster movements are produced,
but most high frequency movements vibrate between six and 10 times a second,
or 25,200 and 36,000 vph respectively.
As a general rule, a movement with a
higher frequency is more accurate.
38. waTEr rESISTaNT
A watch designed to prevent water from
entering the case. An atmosphere (atm)
is the measurement used to gauge how
water resistant a watch is. Watches rated 3 atm resist infiltration by water to a
conventional depth of 30 meters; rated 5
atm resists to a conventional depth of 50
meters.
35a. BR 01 Instrument Tourbillon by Bell & Ross
35b. X-Watch by DeWitt
36. Illustration of Caliber 380 by Jaeger-LeCoultre
37. Caliber 4101OR by Audemars Piguet
38. Overseas Chronograph by Vacheron Constantin
39. Pilot Doublematic by Zenith
39. wOrLD TImE
Refers to a watch that indicates the local
time in major cities around the world,
usually representing each of the 24 time
zones. The names of the cities are typically displayed on an outer ring on the
dial or on the bezel of the watch. ¨
111
Hotel Waldorf-astoria
301 ParK avenue
212-751-9824
509 madison avenue
at 53rd street
212-888-0505
800-cellini
neW YorK, nY 10022
www.celliniJewelers.com
CELLINI RADIANT SWIRL COLLECTION
Brilliant diamonds in 18-Karat
rose, WHite and YelloW Gold
Eternity wedding bands with diamonds and precious gems set in 18-karat gold
HOTEL WALDORF-ASTORIA
301 PARK AVENUE
212-751-9824
www.CelliniJewelers.com
800-CELLINI
NEW YORK, NY 10022
509 MADISON AVENUE
AT 53RD STREET
212-888-0505