A Review of The Techniques of Knitting and Moulding Pertinent to
Transcription
A Review of The Techniques of Knitting and Moulding Pertinent to
A Review of The Techniques of Knitting and Moulding Pertinent to Seamless Fashion Creation Frankie Ng Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University ABSTRACT A study has been carried out to investigate the past and present techniques, processes and procedures that enable creation of seamless fashion towards innovative ends. Among the fifteen techniques investigated, knitting and moulding are by far two of the most developed toward seamless clothing production. This paper gives a chronological review of the development of these two techniques pertinent to seamless garment production that could be deployed for seamless fashion creation. Keywords: knitting, moulding, development, seamless fashion, seamless clothing. 1. INTRODUCTION The convention of fashion design and production involves cutting and seaming fabrics and materials. This convention has in certain ways limited the way fashion can be created. Attempts have been made to create clothing items without seams by various techniques and processes [1]. It is envisaged that the success of inventing techniques and processes with new materials to eliminate seaming in fashion is of both original artistic merit and commercial value, and will enhance future research in this area. 2. TECHNIQUES CREATION AND PROCESSES ENABLING SEAMLESS FASHION Fifteen techniques and processes were identified to be possible of seamless fashion creation. It was realised that the stages of development of techniques possible of creating seamless fashion vary. It was realised that the techniques of knitting and moulding are by far two of the most advanced and developed toward seamless clothing production [2]. 3. KNITTING Knitting has been one of the major influences in the development of fashion [3], perhaps more so since the advent of the knitting frame by Reverend William Lee in 1589 [4-7]. Knitted hose of silk or wool worn with trunk breeches were standard dress in all social classes. In fact, hose were worn by both men and women, though their respective styles varied considerably. The prominence of knitting remained throughout the history of fashion. The knitting industry expanded with overseas markets and domestic prosperity, and the innovative stocking frame in the eighteenth century produced a variety of fashion items including gloves, waistcoats, breeches, coats, and lace pieces. The later development of the latch needle lead to the production of jumpers, cardigans, and shawls [8, 9]. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 78 In recent history, there have been attempts of producing seamless hose while natural fibres have affected knitting fashions. With its rapid research and development, knitting has become one of the most sophisticated technologies towards seamlessness. Today, seamless clothing items can be realised both by hand knitting and machine knitting. Literature was found that revealed a possibility of knitting up a garment without seams by grafting stitches - The seam of the first piece of garment is first fashioned off and by grafting stitches of the second piece along the edges of the first piece; two pieces are thus joined together [10]. Sommers illustrated another possibility of hand knitting a flat circle, progressing to a circle with sides that cup into hat or basket forms, and finally to a completely round sphere [11]. Given these possibilities of hand knitting, it would not be difficult to realise more complicated seamless forms such as those in textile and fibre art [12], and conceivably, seamless clothing items. In fact, an example of the production of an entirely seamless garment by hand knitting was available [13], of which the circle closings of the garment were grafted together with the surrounding areas of circular needle knitting. Later in 1986, a way to hand knit a seamless raglan-sleeved sweater by means of circular needles that commenced from the waist hem upward was deliberated [14]. In 1988, knitting instructions for a seamless neck-down designed sweater that may be adapted for any length, size, colour and stitch combination was presented [15]. The basic sweater has a V-neck back and front, elbow-length sleeves, and a slightly blouson waist-length body, with ribbing at the neck, elbow, and waist. Experimentation of hand knitting the similar as that of Tudor was proved possible by the author [16]. Seamless sweater by machine knitting has been made possible both by flat bed knitting and tubular knitting machines. A method of tubular knitting an integral garment on a conventional two bed as well as on a four-needle bed V-bed flat machine was revealed in the Patent GB 2228750A by Shima Seiki. The object of this patent is to produce a fashionshaped garment in which the sleeves and body are integrally knitted together and do not require any seaming operations [17]. Furthermore, a method of tubular knitting an integral garment on a conventional two needle bed V-bed flat knitting machine was revealed in the Patent GB 2183264 B of J. M. Picaza Azpiroz (also the Spanish Patent No. 549230 under the same name) [18]. In this method, the knitting sequence comprises a first stage of simultaneously knitting the sleeves and the first part of the body up to the armholes, a second stage of linking the sleeves to the first part of the body already knitted, and a third stage of knitting the second part of the body until the garment is completed. Prior to the first phase, a tubular rib broader with a start in perfect selvage and a two needle bed structure is produced at the beginning of the sleeves and in the first part of the body. This method allows the knitting of the garment complete and assembled in a single operation without seams between the components, a feature which brings with it not only the advantage of saving the cutting operations of knitted cloths, but also that of eliminating the seaming operations during the course of knitted garment production. At the 11th International Exhibition of Textile Machinery (ITMA) in Hanover in 1991 seen the employment of the said method on a Zamark V-bed flat machine to knit an integrally shaped sweater [19]. In 1993, the development of three-dimensional knitted fabric on V-bed flat knitting machines for various degrees of three-dimensional fabrics was discussed by Yu and Soong. The method allowed the production of relief knitted patterns by cardigan stitches, tubes and boxes, to an entirely seamless sweater [20]. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 79 In fact, knitting technology has not limited itself only to producing seamless sweater. In 1975, a technology for the production of seamless and conventional knitted trousers from single-jersey was reported by Bezemek [21]. In 1978, the manufacturing of a pair of onepiece seamless briefs on circular hosiery machine was detailed in the Patent BP 1 504 288 by Ridley, Spriggs & Johnson Limited. The briefs were knitted in the form of a seamless body tudy with front and back panels shaped by dimensional course wise and/or wale-wise variations. The back panel is longer wale-wise, and thus fuller, than the front panel, and the two panels were constructed by an intermediate shaped crotch which may be closed either by rotary knitting or after pressing off. Wale-wise extending selvages with turned welts defined the leg openings [22]. In 1979, the success of producing seamless knitted gloves by automatic knitting machines was reported [23]. In the same year, an invention of a seamless surgical stocking which was a knee-length, seamless stocking that intermittently applying a pulsating pressure to the leg to stimulate blood flow and inhibit thrombosis was revealed in the Patent BP 1 576 026. The stocking included a pocket containing an inflatable tube that was connected to a pump for periodically expanding the tube [24]. Later in 1981, another invention of seamless briefs was revealed in the Patent BP 1 604 558 by E. Taklia. The briefs were made from a seamless, tubular fabric with an integrally formed extension for the crotch. The latter was heat shaped to provide an outwardly directed bulge that reduced pressure upon the genitalia. In the same year, an invention of a pant type apparel such as shorts, trouser, or the like, with a permanent seamless crotch-inner leg panel that stretched across the crotch area between inner leg areas of the apparel was revealed in the Patent US 4 261 060 by B. A. Zawacki [25]. Two years later, an invention of a pants like garment designed to conform to the contours of the body in the trunk and upper legs areas was revealed in the Patent US 4 371 989 by B. Polsky. The garment was comprised of a front piece with the inside edges of the legs formed into an inverted V, a rear piece with the inside edges of the legs forming an inverted V, and a diamond-shaped crotch piece joined to the points of the V's so that the pieces cooperated to pull the piece away from the crotch when one leg of the wearer pulled on the garment [26]. More recently in 1995, seamless waterproof socks from DuPont was described. Both the inner and outer layers of this over-the-calf SealSkinz socks are uniquely seamless to ensure comfort and help prevent blisters [27]. Working toward the goal of complete apparel manufacturing technology to reduce post-knitting time and costs while improving quality, Shima Seiki Manufacturing Limited has been successful in manufacturing light weight apparel that is seamless and comfortable by its WholeGarment technology [28, 29]. The SWG-V and SWG-X WholeGarment machines, for instance, are capable of knitting a wide range of one piece sweaters, tops and bottoms that allow continuous designs that wrap around the garment as well as totally reversible designs [30]. Today, the company offers a range of sophisticated automatic knitting machines that knits literally all types and styles of seamless gloves and socks as well as fully fashioned garments [31, 32]. Among the many seamless clothing items produced and manufacturing by knitting technology, hosiery items with particular reference to pantyhose have been by far the most significant and substantial in attracting research and development. It has long been recognised as desirable to be capable of providing a pair of pantyhose which is knitted in one-piece and seamless to eliminate the existence of seams that would detract from the appearance of the pantyhose, the additional manufacturing steps would also increase production cost. Yet, a large number of one-piece pantyhose presently produced are of a type which are formed by sewing two separately knitted halves together with or without a gusset in the crotch area [33]. The seam of the pantyhose without a gusset was much subject to tensions and laddering whereas the production of the one without was expensive. Moreover, RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 80 there had not been any semiautomatic machines that were able to assemble the gusset [34]. Past efforts had failed in producing a one-piece seamless pantyhose that would simplify the construction process while retaining an overall satisfactory appearance. For example, in an effort to eliminate the seam, the prior art pantyhose of U.S. Patent 3,673,821 and Re 27,886 had not been found to possess the overall shape and size characteristics desirable by the wearer. Although some contour was provided to the body of these prior art pantyhose by using partial courses or heel pouches, the resulting terminated yarn ends or weakened gore lines tended to detract from the overall appearance of the pantyhose. It also introduced an undesired feature a seamless one-piece hose was expected to eliminate. Similarly, obvious gore lines were found in U.S. Patent 3,748,870 and 3,802,229 as a result of the gussets formed by a widening and narrowing process, though the shape was improved. Another area of concern had been with the waist opening and the waistband of the pantyhose. Sewn-on waistbands had added to the total cost of the garment due to the additional sewing step that was required during production. On the other hand, the terminated yarn ends of the introduced expansion yarn to a specified area of the pantyhose detracted from the appearance of the pantyhose albeit some may be hidden at an added expense by rolling and sewing. Although the waistband formed by reciprocal knitting as in U.S. Patent 3,748,870 might had eliminated terminated yarn ends, the internally knitted waistbands in the form of a narrow elongated slot with a wale-wise orientation had two obvious drawbacks. First, when a large waist opening was required by a greater extension of the elongated slot into the area of the side panels, a decrease in the rise of the garment along the hips to prevent the opening from being properly located at the waist of the wearer would be resulted. An addition of knitting courses might introduce bagginess at the crotch and the front and rear panels of the body portion. Second, the elastic characteristics of the knitted band were limited since the expansion of it is limited to the wale-wise direction [35]. Since the introduction of automatically closed toes on the knitting machine in 1967 and the first patent for automatic production of one-piece pantyhose in 1968, the search to perfect the concept of "from machine to madam" has been an on-going development [36]. In October 1973 at the 15th Annual Congress of the International Federation of Knitting Technologists (IFKT) in Milan, a panorama of the methods used up to that point in time to produce the onepiece pantyhose was given by Ettore Negri, during which seven methods were deliberated. Later in 1977, further account for some of the developments of the one-piece pantyhose was listed [37]. This included an Italian Patent Sangiacomo No. 959.420, an American Patent application serial No. 488.585 Janda, the Lonati's 'Monopanty', and another Italian Patent Matec No. 9556 A14. Today, with the rapid development of advanced knitting technology, the production of a onepiece pantyhose with the elasticated waistband without any seams has been made possible. For example, the U.S. Patent 3,992,903 is able to provide a one-piece, seamless knitted garment having a body portion with a shape that substantially conforms with the shape of the wearer. It has a waist opening defined by an integrally knitted waistband with its shape and location not altering the overall conformation of the pantyhose to the shape of the wearer and the waistband includes improved expansion characteristics. The pantyhose can be quickly and simply produced and is attractive in appearance [38]. Every other year, the International Hosiery Exhibition (IHE) [39-41] provides a showcase of the most advanced up-to-the-minute technologies in hosiery design and production [42]. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 81 4. MOULDING Garment production technology as well as the creation of fashion today is largely a continuation development from the industrial revolution of the latter part of the nineteenth century, characterised by intricate and often cumbersome mechanical machinery. Due to the inherent disadvantages in these conventional garment fabrication and assembly procedures, attempts have been made in the past to form garments by moulding processes. To this end, moulded garments would be more economical to produce than garments produced by traditional manufacturing techniques since the number of labour intensive steps employed in the latter would be reduced. Consistency of sizing in the moulded garments would be far superior to traditionally manufactured garments since size variations in the garment prior to moulding would be eliminated. Moulded garments required far fewer seams and darts than traditionally manufactured garments. This reduces the problem of opened and puckered seams, and greatly improves the garment's wearing comfort and durability, particularly after extended wear and cleaning. In addition, moulded garment manufacture can provide improved appearance in the final product, particularly with regular patterned fabrics such as plaids and stripes, while at the same time reducing costs by minimising both labour and the amount of material required to produce a finished product. Patents and technical literature provide a good track of a record of various inventive endeavours of deploying moulding and forming technologies for producing garments in parts or in full. The record suggested moulding and forming date back to as early as 1887. Until cellulose acetate became available, most moulding work were done on cloth that contained thermosetting material to impart moulding characteristics. In 1949, the U.S. Patent 2,460,674 (thereafter called Bihaly patent) assigned to Trubenised Company, London revealed the invention of moulding bra cups that utilised the thermoplasticity of the cellulose acetate in combination with non-thermoplastic yarn. The Trubenised Company was the first company to develop a successful fused collar for men's shirts, and the bra patent appeared to be a byproduct of this earlier work. Meanwhile, spearheaded by Howard Shearer in the U.S., the American Viscose Company was working on moulding too. The U.S. Patent 2,616,084 of Shearer in 1952 have many similarities to the Bihaly one, but involved a higher speed, more automatic process for forming the bra cups. A few years later in 1956, another U.S. Patent 2,760,198 of Poole and Clark used a more sophisticated moulding device for bra moulding. David Clark, the co-patentee of the patent, is the founder of the David Clark Company in Worcester that manufactured space suits for the astronauts. Moulding has been an important technology in some of the components for space suits indeed. In 1963, the U.S. Patent 3,070,870 was one of the first moulded bra patents that incorporated a high-style lace fabric for both decoration and function. It is interesting to note that some of the earlier work that was done on this development used an electric light bulb for moulding some of the prototype samples. Of particular relevance to this study was those invention that employed moulding and forming to create one-piece garments either seamless or of minimal seams. In 1972, the German Patent 2152332 issued to Teijin Limited, Japan disclosed a process of moulding ladies' dresses of minimal seams. The patent was among the first to provide an in-depth approach to making knitted outerwear by moulding. Unfortunately, de-emphasise of polyester knit fabrics had prevented the widespread acceptance of moulded garments. The actual drawings of the said German Patent 2152332 illustrate from step one to three of the dress moulding process [43]. Two years later, such similar development was issued by the RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 82 U.S. Patent 3,819,638. During these two years, articles have appeared in several trade publications describing a similar process [44]. Later in 1979, the U.S. Patent 4,145,388 revealed a method of electrostatic deposition of fibres and dyes on a male mould for manufacturing garments. This invention comprised a method of manufacturing garments using a male mould in a desired garment configuration. Layers of fibres were then electrostatically deposited over the mould to define the garment. Some of the fibres that comprised pre-selected layers were electrostatically oriented in accordance with the elasticity requirements of particular areas of the garment. Colorants could be applied electrostatically to the garment too, if so wished. After final curing to set the colour pattern and fibres, the garment was removed from the mould for finishing. By this method, garments could be fabricated on demand from minimum inventory, thus eliminating many of the time consuming and costly procedures of the convention of textile and garment production. It is ironical that much of the technology that was developed over the years for moulding of garments appears to have been used in industrial products rather than in clothing. Examples of this are moulded surgical face masks, battery separators, respirators, tractor seats and interior trim parts for the automotive industry. More recently, the year of 1974 was highlighted by the "First International Symposium on Garment Moulding Technology" held in Atlanta in October 15-16. Despite the great deal of enthusiasm after the conference on the moulding of garment, the severe depression in the knitted apparel fabric business discouraged the continuation and the initiation of more work in the garment industry. Furthermore, the increased importation of garments from the lower labour cost countries discouraged investment in advanced technology by many major garment enterprises. One of the major limitations of employing moulding technology towards fashion creations has been its high cost of making the moulds to entertain the ever-changing styles in fashion. Computer-aided design systems that can change the moulds easily may help cope with the frequency of style changes. In this connection, the U.K. Patent 2,132,383 issued to Gerber Scientific titled Computer Generated Mould for Contoured Garment Piece Formation has provided impetus to the commercialisation of moulded fashion-led articles. Meanwhile, another process utilising proven heat moulding and ultrasonic bonding techniques developed by Symagery Productions, Inc. was reported. By utilising CAD (computer-aided design), CAM (computer-aided manufacture) and CIM (computer-integrated manufacture), the said technologies could be modified and combined to be amenable to a continuously operating garment manufacturing line using automation and supervisory computer control methodologies for a highly efficient, cost effective and flexible means of garment production [45]. Symagery anticipated that such a system would be able to produce garments of higher quality and at lower cost than those made by conventional cut-and-sew methods. Also reported was an approach of utilising CAD to facilitate three dimensional product design including garment and shoes by Computer Design Inc., or Grand Rapids, Michigan [46]. In the early 1980s, several patents were issued that seemed rather promising. Between 1980 and 1981, Fritz Krowatschek [47-50] published a few papers summarised methods of moulding garment parts. He noted that seamless moulding of flat and tubular textile fabrics by means of flat or curve dorms is a realistic alternative to the clothing techniques used at that time. Other methods of producing garments with fewer seams that included garment production directly from raw materials, from yarns by three-dimensional knitting, and from flat textiles by seamless moulding were also mentioned. In 1984, U.S. Patent 4,459,704 disclosed a method of forming cloth into three-dimensional shapes and to produce garments. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 83 In this method, garments and other cloth items were formed into their predetermined threedimensional shapes. Unfinished cloth was used to construct a shell which was then completely finished while maintained in the shape of the final product on the mould. The invention was also directed to the products obtained from the novel process and to the onepiece pattern used in the manufacture of pant garments in accord with the process of this invention. The invention was said to be superior to various prior art processes of the U.S. Patents 3,655,858; 3,763,499; 3,819,638; 3,892,342; 4,103,363 and 4,171,076. These prior art processes were directed primarily to moulding or forming knitted fabrics, and they all suffered from the disadvantages that the shell of the cloth made before moulding did not confirm to the general shape of the final moulded article, finished fabrics that had already been tentered in the flat were used in the moulding process, and the garment was not moulded under uniform tension and the finished garment therefore includes variations in the density of the fabric and an irregularity in sizing. Furthermore, these prior moulding techniques had generally failed to produce garments which retained their moulded shape, particularly after extended wear and cleaning. Because these prior art processes were directed to moulding finished cloth which had already been subjected to dimensional setting treatments while in the flat, the moulding process was said not to have provided either a precise sizing of the finished garment or satisfactory stretch and comfort characteristics [51]. Further to the Symposium in 1974, another symposium titled Forming and Molding of Fibers and Polymers was held in Atlanta in 1985. At the time, it was believed that the future of moulding technology would continue to develop as an important technology for the textile and the related industries. The parallel development of technology from the polymer driven industries such as fibres, plastics and paper as well as that of CAD systems would play an important role in the growth of moulding and forming. 5. CONCLUSION This study has been carried out to investigate past and present techniques enabling creation of seamless objects and clothing for generating original knowledge of seamless fashion creation contributing to the creative and technological aspects of fashion design. Practical contributions of the study are to improve garment appearance, enhance imagery continuation, eliminate imagery matching problem, reduce processing and handling in garment production, save material cost and add new dimensions in fashion creation and aesthetics. Fifteen techniques and processes were identified to be possible toward these ends. It was realised that the techniques of knitting and moulding are two of the most advanced and developed in this regard, and envisaged to be tremendous potential for subsequent seamless fashion creation. REFERENCES 1. For example, see Krowatschek, F., November (1981), Seamless moulding of garment parts, Melliand Textilberichte International (English Edition), 10, pp. 1144-1147. 2. Ng, F.M.C. and Kho, W.Y.W. (1998), Spunlaced non-woven fabric technology and its recent development in China, Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, Vol.2, No.1, pp. 36-45. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 84 3. J.C. Hurd, P.M. Findlay and E. Start (1970), Weft Knitted Fabrics and Garments Machine Design and Fashion, Papers of the Diamond Jubilee Conference of the Textile Institute, pp. 131-145. 4. Chapman, S.D. (1972), Genesis of the British Hosiery Industry 1600-1750. Textile History, 3: pp. 7-50. 5. Ponting, K.G. (1982), In Search of William Lee. Knitting International, 89(December): pp. 79-83. 6. Harte, N. (1989), William Lee and the Invention of the Knitting Frame. Knitting International, 96(1142, Section 2, February): pp. 14-20. 7. Kinder, K. (1989), Four Hundred Years of Domestic Machine Knitting. Knitting International, 96(1142, Section 2, February): 69-72. 8. See Felkin, W. (1967), History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacturers, New York: Bert Frankline, of which in the chapter on hand knitting, Felkin gives a good account of the evidence of various knitted items in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, including protective laws to support this. 9. Brackenbury, T. (1989), Fashion History of Knitting. Knitting International, 96(1142, Section 2, February): pp. 26-31. 10. 1967, The Structure of Knitted Fabrics, London: IWS. 11. Sommer, E. and M. Sommer (1977), A New Look at Knitting: an easier and more creative approach, New York: Crown Publishers, Inc., p. 169. 12. Soft sculpture. 13. Sommer, E. and M. Sommer (1977), A New Look at Knitting: an easier and more creative approach, New York, Crown Publishers, Inc., p. 161. 14, Zimmermann, E. (1986), Knitting a Seamless Sweater: it's easy with circular needles. Threads, 7(October): pp. 47-49. 15. Tudor, A. (1988), The Oddball Sweater. Threads, 17(June/July): pp. 34-37. 16. February (1988), samples of hand knitted seamless sweater by the author. 17. Spencer, D.J. (1991 June), Shima Seiki Patent: Knitting Integral Fashion-Shaped Garments On a Four Needle-Bed Automatic Flat. Knitting International, pp. 22-25. 18. Spencer, D.J. (1992 January), Patent Describes Method for Knitting Integral Fashion Shaped Tubular Garments on Conventional V-Bed Flat Machine. Knitting International, pp. 16-7. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 85 19. Picaza-Azpiroz (1993), J.M., Process for Knitting a Seamless Garment on Flat Knitting Machines, Spain. 20. Yu, P.C. and S.S. Soong (1993), Discussion on the Development of 3-D Knitted Fabric on V-bed Flat Knitting Machines. Journal of the China Textile Institute, 3(6): pp. 3237. 21. Bezemek, V. (1975), Development of a Technology for the Production of Seamless and Conventional Knitted Trousers from Single-jersey. Melliand Textilberichte International, 56(12): pp. 983-986. 22. Johnson, M.R. (1978), Manufacture of One-Piece Seamless Briefs on Circular Hosiery Machine, Ridley, Spriggs & Johnson Ltd. 23. 1979, Automatic Machines for the Production of Seamless Gloves. Maglieria, 61(4): pp. 25-29. 24. 1980, Alba-Waldensian, Surgical Stocking, Alba Waldensian: USA. 25. 1981, Zawacki, B.A., Pantlike Apparel Having Seamless Crotch-Inner Panel, USA. 26. 1983, Polsky, B., Seamless Crotch, USA. 27. Dockery, A. (1996), Automation Sets the Pace at IHE. America's Textiles International, 25(9 (September)): K/A2+. 28. Little, T. (1996), Electronics Lead Flat Knit Advances. America's Textiles International, 25(3): K/A 2-4. 29. Gross, D. (1996), Complete Garment Technology Featured at KAE International. Knitting Times, 65(9, September): pp. 66-71. 30. Nakashima, T. and M. Karasuno (1996), Value-Added Knitwear: differentiating products with Shima Seiki technology. Knitting International, 103(1226, May): pp. 4245. 31. Notable developments in the history of the company include the first automated glove knitting machine in 1962, first fully automated collar knitting machine in 1967, mass production of fully automated seamless glove knitting machines in 1970, apparel CAD PGM-2 design system in 1988, Shimatronic flat bed knitting machines in 1989, SuperMicro SDS computer aided design system in 1991, Total Knitting System in 1993, and innovative SPL102CS knitting machine combining warp knitting with flat bed knitting technology in 1994 32. Shima Seiki, in ITT Trade Literature: Shima Seiki. nd, Shima Seiki Manufacturing Limited. P. 30. 33. Janda, R.M. and K.C. Williams (1996), Seamless Garment Including Method of and Machine for Knitting the Same, Rockwell International: USA. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 86 34. Negri, E. (1977), New Methods for Producing Pantyhose. Knitting Times, 46(11, 14 March): pp. 56-60. 35. Janda, R.M. and K.C. (1996), Williams, Seamless Garment Including Method of and Machine for Knitting the Same, Rockwell International: USA. 36. Goadby, D.R. (1980), Conti-Panty: a new method of producing one-piece pantyhose. Knitting International, 87(October): p. 54. 37. Negri, E. (1977), New Methods for Producing Pantyhose. Knitting Times, 46(11, 14 March): pp. 56-60. 38. Janda, R.M. and K.C. Williams (1996), Seamless Garment Including Method of and Machine for Knitting the Same, Rockwell International: USA. 39. For example, see Millington, J. (1996), IHE: 'Year of the Toe'. African Textiles, April/May): 13+. 40. For example, see Stovhase, R. (1994), The IHE 1994 International Hosiery Exposition in Charlotte, USA. Knitting Technique, 16(6): pp. 381-384. 41. See Davidson, W.A.B. and J.T. Millington (1992), IHE 1992 Is Unqualified Success. America's Textiles International, 21(8, August): K/A2-K/A10. 42. Companies that have been active in IHE include Barco, BASF, Bentley, Conti Florentia, Cytec, Fadis, Grandis, Metec, Lonati, Sangiacomo, Uniplet…to name but a few. 43. Step One: tubular double knit fabric over the form – the end of the fabric is drawn past the bottom of the form far enough to provide a correct hem allowance. Steps Two & Three: clamping the fabric at the shoulders and neck along the shoulder join line, and at the bottom hem line. Patterned fabrics apparently must be drawn exactly vertical, without twisting. They must also be stretched uniformly in length and circumferential directions to minimise erratic pattern distortions and irregular shapes of patterns. 44. For example, see Women's Wear Daily, Teijin 'Heat Sets' Dresses, December 1972, in which it described the development as "a simple process for making dresses commercially by heat-setting knit fabrics on a metal form", also see Japan Textile News, New Heat-Setting Technique for Perfect-Fit Ready-Made Wear, March 1973 in which it said "Teijin Limited has recently developed a heat-setting technique using three-dimensional dress forms", and Daily News Record, Set Japanese New-Technique Apparel Firm, April 24, 1974 in which it said "Three Japanese companies have formed a joint venture company to manufacture and wholesale apparel made by a new heat-set technology…Initially the new company will manufacture women's dresses using knitted fabrics, but later will go into children's and men's wear". 45. Stern, B. and C. Huckaba. (1985), An Update on Molding in the Textile-Apparel Industry. in Forming and Molding of Fibers and Polymers, Atlanta, Georgia 30043, pp. 22-39. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 87 46. Van Fossen, R.W. (1985), CAD System for Pattern and Mold Design. in Forming and Molding of Fibers and Polymers, Atlanta, Georgia 30043, pp. 220-226. 47. Krowatschek, F. (1979), Processes for Seamless Moulding of Textiles into Articles of Clothing. Bekleidung und Wasche, 31(16): pp. 1059-1061. 48. Krowatschek, F. (1979), Processes for Seamless Transformation of Textile Apparel. Bekleidung + Waesche, 31(16, August): pp. 1059-1061. 49. Krowatschek, F. (1980), Possibilities of Moulding Garment Parts, Research Results. in 19th Internationale Chemiefasertagung, Dornbirn. 50. Krowatschek, F. (1981), Seamless Moulding of Garment Parts. Melliand Textilberichte International (English Edition), 10, November): pp. 1144-1147. 51. See U.S. Patent 4,459,704. RJTA Vol. 5 No. 1 88