Waist Cincher Pattern

Waist Cincher Pattern
Sewing Instructions
Corset pattern by Linda Sparks of Farthingales
The corset on the left was made using this pattern.
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There are four pieces for each side of the body
Both top and bottom have points at front and back
The front seams are piped and include invisible bone casings
The mid panel bone casings are invisible except for decorative
stitching
The top edge has been piped and bound
I used an antique brass busk
The chain embellishment was a thrift store find
Before You do Anything
This pattern is a simple “waist cincher” corset pattern, designed for those who are new to corset making – it’s a great
first project. With only 4 pieces per side of the body, this is a “four panel” corset pattern which means it’s pretty easy
and fairly fast to put together. These are the four pattern pieces that you’ll have printed off in full size.
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Side Back
Cut 2
Side Front
Cut 2
CB
CF
Front
Cut 4
Back
Cut 4
These pages of instructions are for basic construction and do not include steps for invisible or decorative bone casings
or for piped bindings or floating busks. The maroon corset was made for my Craftsy Class; “Custom Corsets,
Bones,Casings and Busks” and you can find more advanced information if you take the class
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The pattern pieces can be printed on any printer and requires standard size ( 8 ½ x 11) printer paper
There is a 1” x 1” square on the sheets – check that it does measure 1” x 1” (do not use “scale to fit page”
printing option). See page 12 for instructions to print if your squares are not 1”
The patterns are sold in 3 size groupings; size 18-26, size 28-36, and size 38-46
They fit waist dimensions 22”- 30”, 32”- 40” and 42”- 50” respectively
You will receive the size group that you ordered – one group only as each group is a single file
The patterns DO NOT include Seam Allowance!!! (see instructions below to add “SA”)
Some size groups may have pattern pieces that extend beyond the standard size printer paper – this will
require you to tape two pieces together. These are clearly marked.
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Start by looking over the pattern pieces and familiarize yourself with the markings. For example: there are 4 pieces, note
the Centre Front (CF) line, Busk length, Cut x #, size indicators on the sides, grain lines etc. Next, read all the
instrucitons…I know, what a drag, but it will help!
The notches serve two purposes; they indicate which piece the pattern is and they are matching points to connect the
pieces. They are important.
Sizes indicate the waist measure of the corset pattern…which is designed to be 4” smaller than the body waist
measurement, that the corset will fit. Example: a corset pattern marked size 26 will measure 26” from the CF (center
front) line to the CB (center back) when all the pieces are put together…this is the size you need if you have a 30” waist
[26” + 2” gap between the center back pieces + 2” reduction of your waist = 30”). To determine the pattern size that you
need to use, subtract 4” from your waist measurement. If your waist is not an even number – example: if your waist is
31” (31 – 4 = 27) you can use either the size 26 or 28…I would suggest using the size 28 as you can always take it in.
Note: Your waist it ABOVE your belly button and below your ribcage!
You will need some basic tools to make this corset:
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sewing machine
number 14 sewing machine needle (should be a new one)
regular foot for sewing machine
zipper foot for sewing machine
scissors
awl
grommet setter
a grid ruler that you can see through
You will need some not so basic materials:
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a busk (front clasp) in 8,9 or 10” length depending on pattern size
bones – your choice of synthetic whale bone, spiral or spring steel
grommets (for the back)
foundation fabric – coutil is the professional choice….but 100% cotton poplin is an option
fashion fabric and trim are optional
poster board from the dollar store & glue stick(optional)
These patterns DO NOT include seam allowances – you may choose to use 3/8” for narrow easy to bind seam allowances
but I recommend using 1” seam allowances to make your mock-up. You can trim the seam allowances down after you’ve
done your alterations. Using 1” seam allowance gives you lots of room to adjust the fit of the corset. NOTE: the top and
bottom edges do not get seam allowance added – these get bound so are already at the “finished” length. If you add to
the top and/or bottom it will change the length of busk you need as well as the length of bones (not an issue if you’re
cutting your bones from a coil of boning)
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Set up to Cutting
1. Tape any pieces together that need to be – this is only required for larger sizes where the pattern pieces don’t fit
on a single sheet of paper.
2. Using a marker or highlighter draw around the pattern size you will be using. Don’t cut it out until after you
have added seam allowance.
3. Label the pattern pieces in the top corners with 1,2,3 as indicated in the image on page 1. Don’t skip this
4. Determine the width of seam allowance that you want. Example: I like to use 1 inch wide seam allowance that I
can trim down after I’ve done my fitting alterations.
5. Using a see-through ruler add 1 inch to all of the vertical seams with the exception of the center front and the
center back. The center front line and the center back line are already marked on the patterns and have seam
allowances of approximately 1 ½ inches. So you are only adding seam allowance to the vertical lines which have
notches in them. There is no need to add seam allowance to the top or bottom edges.
Keep the 1” mark, of the ruler along the line that
indicates the size you want. Then draw along the
outer edge of the ruler, pivot and slide the ruler as
needed to keep the line parallel to the original size
line and maintain the curve.
6. If necessary, you may need to add paper (tape on an extra sheet) in order to add seam allowance to the corset
pattern if needed.
7. Be sure that your seam allowance is parallel to the original seam line.
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8. Using a ruler, transfer the notch marks on to the lines that you just drawn, they should be at right angles to the
lines.
9. Connect the top of the seam allowance and the bottom of the seam allowance to the main pattern by simply
drawing a line perpendicular to the edges of the pattern.
10. REMINDER: There is no seam allowance required at the top or bottom of this corset pattern. The top and
bottom will get bound with bias binding. Obviously, you can change the shape of the top and bottom edges, if
you wish but keep in mind that doing so may change the length of the busk and bones you have purchased.
11. If you wish, use a glue stick to attach the pattern pieces to poster board. I do this as it allows me to trace around
the pattern onto the fabric rather than pining the pattern to the fabric.
Glue the pattern paper to poster board if you
want to. Then cut the pattern out.
12. Cut the pattern pieces out, make sure they include seam allowance!
13. You need to cut at least two of each pattern piece, in fabric, in order to have a right side and a left side of your
corset. You also need to cut 2 extra front pieces and two extra back pieces to act as facings. You can cut two
layers of fabric at one time – be sure the layers are “right sides” together.
14. Lay the pattern pieces onto the fabric with the grain lines parallel to the selvage
15. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric or trace around them if you’ve glued them to poster board
16. You need to use the front and back pattern pieces twice to get the 4 fronts and backs that you need.
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17. Cut around each pattern piece and clip each notch, these clips should be no longer than indicated on the
pattern, at less than quarter of an inch. Just use the tip of your scissors to make these little “nips” in the fabric
18. Also clip the top and bottom edges to indicate where you will be sewing. Example: if seam allowances are 1”
wide clip a small notch 1” from the cut edge along both top and bottom pieces. These notches will remind you
what your seam allowance is when you get to the machine.
Here I’ve notched the pattern when you would clip the
fabric to indicate where your seam is. The image shows
the seam line for size 26 with the seam allowance
extending to the left (the white space).
19. If it helps, draw the seam line onto the corset fabric and draw the CF line on as well
20. Label the fabric pieces in the corners on the “wrong sides” of the fabric, with the numbers on the pattern piece
corners; 1,2,3 (see Step 3 above)
21. Confirm that you have the correct number of pieces; 4 fronts, 4 backs, 2 side fronts and 2 side backs. If you’re
missing any, cut them out now.
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Creating the Fronts - Applying the Busk
The busk application outlined here is just the ordinary busk application. The pattern is adjusted for a “floating busk” as
outlined in the Craftsy corset class “Custom Corsets, Bones,Casings and Busks”.
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Lay out the pieces and identify them; mark the “wrong sides” if needed (two fronts and two facings)
Using a pencil/pen and ruler draw a line on each facing to indicate the Center Front (CF), if you have not already
done so. In this sample the line should run from the point at the top to the point at the bottom
Using a ruler mark a line on the facing, 1/2” (13mm) from the top edge and 1/2” (13mm) from the bottom edge,
at the CF line. These indicate the placement of the bindings so these lines run parallel to the top and bottom
edges but only need to be about an inch long. The act as a guide for your busk placement.
Determine which front is the “right hand” front of the corset and pair it up with its facing
Place the two pieces “right sides” together, with the facing piece on top
Take the “loop” half of busk and lay it on the CF line, center it between the top and bottom drawn lines, with the
loops facing the raw edge of the CF
Using a pencil/pen , mark the loop location on the CF line
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Sew the facing and the front together by sewing along the CF line but NOT through the spaces that indicate the
placement of the loops.
Press the seam, press it open and then press it closed
Slide the loops of the busk into the loop openings in the CF front seam
Using a zipper foot, stitch close to the busk with the facing against the sewing machine and the corset front on
top. You are securing the busk in place between the front and front facing. The busk should be resting right
against the seam, so that the loops are as far through the loop openings as possible.
Put the corset loop front, aside for later.
Sew the facing and front of the “left hand “ side along the CF line, with “right sides” together
Go to the iron, press the seams, then press them open. Close the unit so that the “wrong side” of the facing is
against the “wrong side” of the front and press the CF carefully
Edge stitch along the CF of the “left hand” front. No more than 1/8” (3mm) from the seam.
Place the two corset front pieces on the table with CF’s together and the top and bottoms matched up. Shift the
loop side front so that it’s CF is on top of the edge stitching of the “left hand” side
Mark the placement for the knobs of the busk by using a pencil/pen and making a dot at the smallest part of each
loop. Using an awl create a hole for the bottom knob by pushing and twisting the awl through the fabric from the
“wrong side”. You are only creating a hole through the front and the front seam allowance.
Work the bottom knob of the busk through the hole you created. NOTE: the knob is not centered in busk and you
want the narrower edge of the busk closest to CF seam.
Continue working one hole at a time until all knobs are through the holes
Using a zipper foot, sew close to the busk to secure it in place. Stitching with the facing against the machine and
the corset front on top. You are stitching through all layers
Hook the busk loops over the busk knobs and appreciate what you have just accomplished!
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Points to remember:
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The loop side of the busk goes in the “right hand” side of the corset
Edge stitching the “left hand” side of the corset is important as it helps block the gap between the two busk
pieces
The busk knobs are not centered and the narrow edge of the busk goes closest to CF
Always press the seams, then press open and then press closed—it really does make a difference
Creating the Backs - Marking the Grommets
Grommets, sometimes known as eyelets have two parts; the grommet and the washer. The grommet is typically the part
that is on the right side of the fabric and is three dimensional. The washer is typically on the wrong side of the fabric
helping to anchor the grommet in the fabric - it is quite flat in comparison to the grommet/eyelet. Grommets serve a
function on a corset by holding the laces and allowing the tightening and loosening of the corset.
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Pair the back pieces up so that you have two sets; each with two pieces with their “right sides” together
Draw a line from point to point (this indicates the center back line)
Sew along the line you’ve drawn to secure the two pieces together, back stitch at both ends
Press the sewn line, then open the seam and press it open and then close the seam with wrong sides together
and press the seam edge
5. Sew a line parallel to the center back seam and 3/8” away from it; this creates the first bone casing channel
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6. Sew a second line 3/8” away from the first and parallel to it; this creates the channel for the grommets (use a
ruler and a disappearing ink pen if necessary or use a regular pen and mark on the facing side)
7. Sew a third line 3/8” away from the second line and parallel to it; this creates the last bone casing channel
8. Using a see through ruler, draw a line down the center of the middle channel. The grommet holes will be
centered upon this line.
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Using the same ruler, mark the location of each grommet hole placement (on the facing side of one corset back
only). The holes should be no more than 2.54cm (1”) apart. You may choose to place grommet holes closer
together around the waist of the corset for extra support. You’re dividing the length of the back (within the
seam allowance for the bindings) into equal sections and this will take you a bit of time to figure out. NOTE:
these patterns are designed with ½” seam allowance factored into the top and bottom – remember you don’t
add anything to the top or bottom of the pattern – only to the sides. Each pattern back should be an even
number in length, for example: 9” not 9 ½”. This means you should be able to use even 1 inch increments to
mark the grommet placements. START at ½” from the bottom or top edge – I usually place a grommet right at
the edge of the binding in order to get them close to the top and bottom. Then mark a spot at 1” intervals – just
draw a line across the center line so you can clearly see exactly where to punch the hope for your grommets.
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10. Make the holes for the grommets using a hole punch. Holes for rivets are smaller than holes for
grommets/eyelets so you need to know which item you are going to use before you make the holes. You are
only making holes on one corset back only. Do not try and make the holes in both backs at the same time by
holding the back pieces together and making a hole in both backs…this almost always leads to inaccuracy.
11. Lay the back with the holes, on top of the back that does not yet have holes or marks for it (with “wrong sides”
together) and using a pencil, mark the placement of the grommet holes for the second back.
12. Remove the piece that is already punched and check the placement of the grommet hole markings, correct any
inaccurate marks.
13. Set grommets in all BUT the top and bottom holes; these need to wait until after the bindings are on at the end
of the corset making process, but you can now lace the corset for fitting purposes and get a more accurate fit.
Putting the Corset Together
The fronts and backs of your corset are now done and the easy part is ahead of you! You can choose to create interior
bone casings or exterior ones; I’m going to guide your through exterior ones here.
1. Take one front and match it, with wrong sides together to the side front; if you labeled the pieces with 1,2,3
then you will have two differently shaped pieces that both have a number 1 in the top corner. These two corners
go together.
2. Confirm that the single notches of each, match up. I do not pin the pieces as these curves are easier to sew if I
do it organically…matching the raw edges up as I sew.
3. Sew the seam using the seam allowance you opted to use. If the seam allowance is 1” you may want to draw it
onto one of the pieces. Use a basting stitch unless you are sure the corset will fit!
4. Sew all the other seams in the same way.
5. Lace the corset back and try the corset on. REMEMBER – the loops of the busk go in your right hand – it’s easy
to put a waist cincher on upsie down if you don’t remember this.
6. Pull the laces to get a snug fit
7. Check the fit and mark alterations right on the fabric. Since the pieces were sewn with wrong sides together the
seams will face out from the body and are easily accessible to make alterations to.
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8. Unlace the corset to remove it
9. Make the alterations as needed – having basted the seams means you’ll be able to rip seams out easily if you
need to make any area larger.
10. Sew the seams with a default stitch to secure them “for real”
11. If you’re using ¼” bones you can trim the bone casings to 3/8” or at most ½”.
12. Bind the seams using bias strips that is 2” wide and has been folded down the middle
13. Align the raw edges of the bias with the raw edges of the corset
14. Lengthen the stitch slightly and sew the bias to the corset with the bias against the throat plate of the machine,
so that you can see where not to sew…you want to sew just a hair within the previous stitching. NOTE: stitch the
bias strip on the corset piece that is closest to the front..except for the back one – it should be sewn as it lays
flat against the back piece.
15. Press the front seam and the side seam toward the back and press the back seam toward the front
16. Stitch the folded edge of the bias down to the corset to encase the seam allowance…this can be tricky! Pin the
bias in place first and be very aware of where you are sewing.
17. Slide bones into the casings. There should be spring steel bones (white) for the four casings at center back and
spiral bones (grey) for the six on seam bone casings. Leave them sticking out top of the corset a bit
18. Make sure the bones are not near the bottom edge at all!
19. Bind the bottom edge of the corset using 2” wide bias that has not been folded.
20. Lay one raw edge along the raw edge of the corset, with right sides together. Make sure that the bias extends at
least 1” beyond each end of the corset
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21. Sew the bias to the corset, back stitch at both ends of the corset
22. Fold the extended ends of bias back to cover the end of the corset
23. Fold the length of the bias so that it rolls over the raw edge of the corset and the raw edge of the bias is rolled
up inside - so no raw edges are exposed.
24. Press the bias in place and pin
25. Stitch the bias in place by stitching in the ditch from the front of the corset or by hand stitching the bias to the
inside of the corset
26. Push the bones down into place and bind the top edge in the same way.
27. Lace the corset up and you’re ready to wear it!
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Pattern Download Instructions
To ensure this pattern prints to the right size:
-Make sure you have Adobe Acrobat Reader (DC) installed. If not, you can download it free:
https://get.adobe.com/reader/
-Open the pattern file through Adobe Reader – if your program does not do this automatically, first save the pattern pdf
to your computer then right click on the file and select “open with” then “Adobe Acrobat Reader DC”
-Once open in Adobe, to print click the printer button in the top left. When the printing option screen pops up, make
sure the Page Sizing selection is “actual size”
-When the pages have been printed, measure the inch square markers to make sure they measure 1”
*for sizes 28-36, 38-44, tape the according pieces together to create a completed pattern piece
Other Resources
Also consider reading “The Basics of Corset Building” or any of the downloadable books at
www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com
Or view the video “Custom Corsets: Bones, Casings & Busks” at www.craftsy.com
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