summary - Milne08

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SUMMARY
The first part of our report on 2008 expeditions to Greenland deals
primarily with the East Coast: new routes and impressive ski descents in
Milne Land; continued exploration of and first ascents in Ren Land; what
are believed to be the first recorded ascents in Paul Stern Land; some
coastal exploration off South Liverpool Land and an impressive ski traverse
through Knud Rasmussen Land, the Watkins Mountains and Gronau
Nunatakker, with a number of first ascents and ski descents. Moving much
further south we look at big wall climbing in the little-visited Skjoldungen
Region south of Thor's Land, and finally new alpine rock climbing above
the Kangikitsoq Fjord in Cape Farewell.
PHOTODIAGRAMS
Included are the North Face of Pointe Walters in Ren Land,
Discovery Wall in the Skjoldungen Region, and the South and South
East Faces of the Battle Axe, Cape Farewell. However, there are
also many pictures of climbed and unclimbed peaks, showing
established routes and notable unclimbed lines on big walls, high
couloirs, alpine peaks and relatively modest summits. There is a
map of the region around Scoresby Sund and also several
informative panoramas of mountains in Knud Rasmussen, Watkins,
Paul Stern Land and Ren Land.
TO READ THE FULL REPORT. YOU CAN DOWNLOAD AT WWW.CLIMBMAGAZINE.COM
GREENLAND 2008
EAST COAST
Scoresby Sund
Scoresby Sund, the longest and one of the deepest fjord systems in the World,
is accessed via the commercial airport at Constable Pynt (Nerlerit Inaat) and
the settlement of Ittoqqortoormiut. It is from here that expeditions have
traditionally reached major climbing areas to both the north and south, such as
the Staunings, Watkins Mountains, and the lesser-known peaks of Liverpool
Land. In the last few years a growing number of mountaineering expeditions
has concentrated on areas within the fjord: Milne Land, Ren Land, and at the
western head, Paul Stern Land. All have huge scope for first ascents, some of
a very technical nature.
Milne Land is a large island within Scoresby Sund and, so far, very few
climbers have exploited its considerable potential for high standard, technical
first ascents. While these will generally take the shape of big wall and alpine
rock climbs, in 2008 a French team demonstrated the great scope for extreme
ski descents. Ren Land is part of the East Coast mainland (though separated
from it by a deep valley) and lies immediately north of Milne Land. Again, it has
relatively little climbing history and huge scope for technical first ascents.
During 2007-2009 primarily British parties explored some of its secret corners.
Milne Land
The first to visit this region in 2008 were the French Yannick Ardouin, Patrick
Huber, Ilario Prévitali and Jean-Francois Richer, who in April took a snowmobile
across the frozen ice of Scorsbysund to the Ofjord, the strip of water
separating the northern shores of Milne Land from Ren Land. Their aim was to
explore the potential for steep ski descents on Milne land and in this they were
almost certainly the first.
Towards the eastern end of Milne Land's northern coastline. The right-hand of the two
visible couloirs is the 1,200m Couloir de la Vierge Noire: the rock formations are
unclimbed. These couloirs do not receive the sun until 8pm in the spring. PATRICK HUBER
mountain-equipment.co.uk
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Milne Land and Ren Land
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The 1,400m Scarabée Couloir on an unnamed formation above the west side of the Korridoren Glacier, Milne Land.
The summit is 1,700m and the rock walls unclimbed. YANNICK ARDOUIN - PATRICK HUBER COLLECTION
The three summits of Grundtvigskirchen on the south coast of Ren Land. The highest or North Summit (1,882m) was
probably first climbed in 1987 by Belgians from the north (far side - snow slopes behind the right skyline). In 1999
Swedes repeated this route and also reached the summit of the middle peak - Grundtvigskirchen Spire - via the East
South East Pillar from the col between the Spire and lower South Summit, rappelling their line. Swedes also climbed
the South Summit via the South Face (left skyline); 25 pitches up to 5.10c/d. They went down to the col on the far side
and used the in-situ rappel anchors for descent. PATRICK HUBER
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The four French first set up camp in the bay
south west of Grundtvigskirken (1,882m) on the
south coast of Ren Land, and then climbed north
to a small pass that they named Col Caloris (N
71°58.04', W 26°12.23), squeezed between
granite towers reminiscent of the Mont Blanc
Massif. From there they skied back to the fjord (a
300m section of 40°). Next, they moved camp to
the mouth of the Korridoren, the huge glacier
system that cuts through northern Milne Land from
east to west. It was a little way down this glacier
from the Ofjord that Satosh Kimoto, Yasushi and
Taeko Yamanoi climbed a big new rock route in
2007 on a formation they christened Orca (see
JANUARY 2009 INFO). The French climbed and
then skied two huge snow couloirs on the west
side of the glacier. The first, Scarabée Couloir (N
70°53.64', W 26°29.55') was tucked away
between two, huge rock pillars on a 1,700m
mountain, and gave 1,400m of descent (300m at
50°, 500m at 45° and the bottom 5-600m at 40°).
The second was much narrower and situated a
little further towards the coast. Sandwiched
between enormous granite walls and topped by a
large cornice, which they turned on the left, this
couloir gave 1,300m of descent and was named
Excalibur (N 70°53.95', W 26°30.63'). The first
100m was 50-55°, the next 200m 50°, then 600m
of 45° gave out onto easier slopes. Having
previously skied in Baffin Island, the French feel
that these couloirs are in the same league as (or
possibly even better than) the now famous Polar
Star on Mt. Beluga in Sam Ford Fjord, first
discovered and skied in 2002 by Brad Barlage and
Andrew McClean (and repeated a number of times
since to great acclaim: see JUNE 2008 INFO for
photographs).
The French continued up the Korridoren Glacier,
hoping to climb onto the ice cap but after 15km
were almost wiped out by a huge avalanche,
emanating from a serac collapse on the edge of
the ice cap high above. They retreated from this
point but not before bumping into the small British
party mentioned below.
The French returned to the Ofjord, then headed
east until more or less due south of their original
camp. Here they made the first ascent and ski
descent of a north facing 1,100m couloir on Milne
Land they named Little Big Man Couloir (N 70°
58.04', W 26°08.11': the first 150m at 50°, the
next 500m at 45° and the rest easier). Moving
further east, they climbed and skied Couloir de la
Vierge Noire, the right-hand of two parallel gullies
1,200m in height (N 71°01.24', W 25°57.37':
300m of 45°, 600m of 40° and the rest easier),
and then, having rounded the north east tip of
Milne Land, climbed the Tête de l'Enclume (N
70°57.25' W 25°38.18') on the east coast. This
gave a pleasant 700m descent. From here, 10
days spent pulling their pulks across the frozen ice
took them back to Ittoqqortoormiut.
Temperatures were reported as -20°C at night in
April, rising to -5°C during the day. In May it was 510°C warmer. The granite walls on the coast are
often huge and reminiscent of those in Baffin's
Sam Ford Fjord, while there is potential for ski
descents with a vertical drop of 1,600m.
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Looking south south east towards the Alpine Bowl on the south side of the Edward
Bailey Glacier, Ren Land. This viewpoint is close to the site of the 2008 English base
camp. NAT SPRING
PATRICK HUBER
Other Milne Land Expeditions
Only two other expeditions are known to have visited Milne Land in 2008. The
first was a three-man British team that made a return trip along the length of
the Korridoren, starting from the east coast, as part of a training exercise for
the 2008-09 Shackleton Centenary Expedition to Antarctica. The second was
a Tangent organized expedition that made the first east to west crossing of the
Central Ice Cap from Charcot Bugt (Port Charcot) to Rodefjord.
Ren Land
Although there have been several well-documented scientific projects on Ren
Land, before 2007, when the region was invaded by a 50-strong West
Lancashire County Scouts expedition that operated from the Edward Bailey
Glacier and had a whale of a time making first ascents of 32 individual peaks in
largely glorious weather (See JANUARY 2009 INFO), information on technical
achievements here is scant. In 1998 Bengt Flygel Nilsfors, Magnar Osnes, Odd
Roar Wiik (all from Norway), accompanied by the Swede Micke Sundberg,
attempted the South Ridge of what they called Tsavagattaq (a spectacular
c1,977m peak a little east of Grundtvigskirken). Their only success that year
was a three-pitch rock route (5.9) above base camp. Nilsfors, Sundberg and
Wiik returned in 1999 with Patrik Fransson from Sweden. They used a charter
plane to reach Milne Land and then kayaks to cross the Ofjord. This time they
were successful on the South Ridge, which begins 500m above the fjord and
has a vertical height of almost 1,500m. More than 30 pitches of roped climbing
up to 5.11a interspersed with long sections of scrambling, took them to the
summit, where they were surprised to find a small cairn (and rappel sling).
They surmise the first ascensionists climbed the South West Face. The South
Ridge gave magnificent climbing on superb granite in a wonderful location.
On the descent from Catherinesbjerg with the Alpine Bowl beyond. ROB GRANT
Later, Nilsfors and Wiik climbed the highest summit of Bjornoyene in the
Fiskeryggen Group. They followed the South Ridge, which had been climbed
once before, at 5.5.
At the same time Fredrik and Magnus Lindberg with Roger Reinholm
climbed the North Ridge of the Main Summit of Grundtvigskirken, mostly
scrambling and snow slopes first ascended by Belgians in 1987. On the same
day Anders Granal, Johan Hansson, Mads Holmgren and Mike Wright
summited the middle peak; Grundtvigskirken Spire. They climbed the East
South East Pillar (which first reaches the notch between the Spire and South
Summit) at ED1, and then descended their line by rappel. Later, Lindberg and
Wright reached the South Summit via a 25-pitch line on the South Face
(5.10c/d), climbed down to the notch and descended from there using the insitu rappel anchors.
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Tasvagattaq (c1,997m) on the south coast of Ren Land, a little east of the
Grundtvigskirchen peaks. The first ascensionists (unknown) most likely climbed this fine
spire from the easier south west side. However, in 1998 a Norwegian-Swedish team
completed the 1,500m South Ridge at 5.11a, the upper part of which is visible
(horizontal crest forming the left skyline, followed by the pillar above). The granite was
reported to be excellent and there is plenty of scope for new routes on this formation.
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The 800m north face of Pointe Walters (1,871m) from the upper Edward Bailey Glacier,
showing the line of the first ascent. The summit is out of sight behind the forepeak.
ROB GRANT
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Ren Land 2008
Inspired by the comprehensive report and photos produced by the Lancashire
Scouts, Anthony Garvey, Dave Leonard, Fred Maddelana, Jonathan McCloy,
James McKevitt and Les Ross from Queens University Belfast Mountaineering
Club also visited the Edward Bailey Glacier. This forms a deep valley, rising
east to west through the southern sector of Ren Land and allowing relatively
easy access to the interior. Surrounding it are many rock walls and spires
rising to over 2,000m in altitude.
The team arrived in June and spent 23 days exploring the area, finding the
terrain surprisingly complex, snow conditions abysmal (after a very snowy
winter) and little formation of ice except on the glacier. Although they made ski
ascents of two previously unclimbed mountains, Queens Centenary Peak
and the nearby Donal Deery, both a 32km journey from base camp, their
climbs were predominantly on rock, which they found to be generally solid and
quite clean. New routes included The Thumb via an 800m rock route at
British Hard Severe 4b, President's Peak on Ten Finger Mountain via the
Presidential Route (1,500m: TD-: one committing pitch of HVS/E1 to gain the
summit), Slieve Lucia (2,075m) via a 1,700m ascent of a couloir at AD, a
750m PD couloir to The Northern Forepeak, and Red Gate Point (1,626m)
via a 1,200m line at D (snow gully then rock with an awkward crux of British
4c/5a). Descents usually reversed the route of ascent, and many rappel
anchors were left.
The superb, unclimbed Mirror Wall rises straight from the glacier. Access is easy. ROB GRANT
62 WWW.CLIMBMAGAZINE.COM JAN 2010
There are many, huge, unclimbed granite walls in Ren Land. These are two of the Sharks'
Teeth, seen from the Sharks' Teeth Glacier, which flows north into the lower Edward
Bailey Glacier. ROB GRANT
As the Queen's University expedition left the area, they were replaced by
the three-man team of Crispin Chatterton, Rob Grant and Nat Spring, who
established base camp at an altitude of 496m on the Edward Bailey Glacier,
quite close to the snout and north east of the site used in 2007 by the
Lancashire Scouts. From here the three made exploratory trips along the
length of the glacier to its head, climbing four previously virgin peaks. On the
1st July they made the first ascent of an 871m top close to the start of the
Alpine Bowl Glacier that they dubbed the Aiguille de Minuit. The summit was
reached via a six-pitch route on very poor rock with difficulties up to British
Hard Severe 4b. Bad weather and waterlogged glaciers prevented any further
climbing for more than a week but on the 11th the team made the first ascent
of Pointe Walters (1,871m) above the south bank of the upper Edward Bailey.
They climbed the 800m North Face (45-60°) to the summit ridge and then
moved west a few hundred metres to the top. From there, they continued
another half an hour on firm snow to make the second ascent of Bodger
(1,954m), a summit first climbed by Sean O'Sullivan, Matthew Parker and
Chris Phillips from the 2007 Lancashire Scouts Expedition. The route was
reversed to camp (these peaks lie just west of the Mashed Potato Glacier).
On the 17th they made the first ascent of Pointe Jean Guillaume (1,949m)
in the upper Alpine Bowl, an area at the head of a long glacier (the Alpine Bowl
Glacier) that rises south from the lower (eastern) section of the Edward Bailey.
The Lancashire Scouts explored this region and climbed five peaks, all of
which overlook Scoresby Sund to the south. The British trio climbed a northfacing glacier to reach a couloir, where a short rock band led to several
hundred metres of soft deep snow. Above, fine ice climbing up to 60° led to a
col from where a narrow ridge snaked to a beautiful summit. Two days later
they returned to summit the nearby Catherinesbjerg (1,997m) via a southfacing gully (dubbed the Wall-to-Wall Couloir) on perfect 45° névé to a col, and
then a short rock step leading to easy snow slopes and the summit ridge.
From the top of Catherinesbjerg they continued north west along the ridge for
a further 200m to a subsidiary summit they named Colonel’s Peak (1,965m).
This team also explored the two most easterly side glaciers - Bowling Alley
and Sharks Teeth - that rise south from the (lower) Edward Bailey: potential for
several big wall climbs was noted. They agree that Ren Land offers great
scope for future expeditions, particularly for teams interested in long, alpinestyle rock routes and big walls.
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Fine unclimbed granite walls rise straight out of the south bank of the upper (western) Edward Bailey Glacier. The black water stripes eminate from the capping ice cap. ROB GRANT
Paul Stern Land
Other Expeditions
Also operating out of Scoresby Sund were Simon
Burke and Olly Sanders. In 2006, Sanders
circumnavigated Milne Land by kayak, climbing a
rock route on the north coast (See JANUARY 2008
INFO). In 2008 he planned a more committing
journey out of the Sund and north along the East
Coast of Southern Liverpool Land. After some
skirmishes with polar bear during overnight beach
camps, the two spent four days on Raffles Island,
which has a high point called Agpalik at 550m.
Here, they discovered promising rock lines on a
series of buttresses and a stunning ridge that
appeared to encircle the island. They attempted a
route on one of the buttresses but it turned out to
be poor and very loose (250m: British XS 5a). It
was terminated close to the top, one pitch below
the point where the angle eased. They then
climbed approximately half of the stunning ridge
starting up another buttress via a loose and poorly
protected route they dubbed A Ridge too Far
(100m: British XS 4c).
The pair then paddled north to Rathbone
Island (Ingmikertikajik), where a long
mountaineering day took them to the 435m
highest point. This could well be the first ascent of
the mountain and required scrambling in the upper
section. Surprisingly, whilst on the island they
experienced another encounter with polar bears,
which must have swum 10km across open water
The little-known mountains of Paul Stern Land lie
on the mainland due west of Milne Land. They
border the ice cap to the west. At the end of a long
traverse that began in Knud Rasmussen Land
(reported below), Germans Georg Csak and
Dominik Rind reached a pre-arranged pick up
point in Paul Stern Land and placed a cairn on the
2,048m Tiger Nunatak. Although this formation is
steep and rocky from the east, it was a gentle walk
from the Germans' position on the edge of the ice
cap and in their opinion hardly merited being called
a 'first ascent'. They had to wait out poor weather
for a week until a Twin Otter flew in a three-person
British team on the 24th May. As mentioned briefly
in DECEMBER 2008 CLIMB (where there is also
another photograph showing the mountains of
Paul Stern Land), these three Britons, Geoff
Bonney, Jim and Sandy Gregson, who had a
combined age of 191 years and vast experience of
the Arctic, then spent three days moving their
equipment towards the heart of Paul Stern Land,
eventually establishing base camp at a less-thanideal site with coordinates N 70°29.540', W
30°05.454', and an altitude of 1,800m. Base camp
was dubbed Camp Venturi, due to the almost
constant influence of strong katabatic wind spill
from the ice cap. From this point they climbed five
new mountains: these they believe are the first
ascents ever to be recorded in this region.
Peaks climbed were: Garnet Dome (2,180m: N
70°31.991', W 29°58.193'), and on the same night
Peak Emyr (2,465m: N 70°31.024', W
29°56.471'); Ararat (2,625m: N 70°30.899', W
29°53.139': the highest peak in the area);
Windscoop Beacon (2,085m: N 70°28.505', W
30°11.971'), and Nunatak Georg (2,060m: N
Geoff Bonney and Sandy Gregson on the summit of Garnet Dome with Ararat (left) and Peak Emyr behind. JIM GREGSON
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to reach them. Their most northerly point on the
journey was Cape Hoeg (Kap Hoegh or
Ukaleqarteq), after which they made a big push
back to Ittoqqortoormiut before the onset of a fiveday storm. They spent 18 days in the boats,
carrying only an EPIRB as they felt the presence of
a satellite phone would detract from the
experience.
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Unclimbed peaks in the southern part of Paul Stern Land. JIM GREGSON
All ascents lay in the quadrangle between 70° 30'51" to 70° 35'18" N, and
29° 37'46" to 30° 02' W. None required an elevation gain of more than 500m
from the three campsites used.
The new peaks (altitudes measured by GPS) were: Little Sister (2,145m); D2
(2,289m); Rip Curl (2,106m); Two by Two (2,225m); Fox's Tooth (2,234m);
Poop Deck (2,175m, barometric reading only); Vincaenium (2,058m); Marvid
(2,148m); Arctic Guinea (2,199m); Meall a' Buachaille (1,923m), and
Snowblade (2,245m, barometric reading only). Barometric altimeters gave
significantly higher altitudes than equivalent GPS readings.
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Knud Rassussen Land to Paul Stern Land Traverse
During April-May Germans Georg Csak and Dominik Rind made a five and a
half week, 321km traverse from Knud Rasmussen Land, through the Watkins
Arken (The Ark: 2,348m) as seen through a long lens from Camp Venturi (Paul Stern Land)
Mountains and Gronau Nunatakker, to Paul Stern Land. This was a committing,
some 13km to the west. This peak is believed to be unclimbed. JIM GREGSON
self-sustained journey through expansive mountain scenery, during which they
saw no one. On route they made six first ascents and skied down the four
highest mountains north of the Arctic Circle, which, they believe, makes them
70°24.671', W 30°08.600'). Fierce winds prevented the party reaching more
the first to do so.
summits and many good objectives remain for future parties.
The pair was first airlifted to N 69°30', W 28°00' on the ice cap and from
On the 7th July they were airlifted to Constable Pynt (Nerlerit Inaat) by a Twin
there moved south west for a few days to reach the first mountains of Knud
Otter bringing Nigel Edwards and five British clients, Mark Bull, Peter CharlesRasmussen Land (named after the Greenlandic polar explorer and
Jones, Gillian Duncan, Al Grove and Julie Lister. This team moved further north
anthropologist Knud Johan Victor Rasmussen, who lived from 1879-1933).
east into an area of fine nunatak peaks and over the following two and a half
Here, they made three first ascents, provisionally named Vollmondspitze (Full
weeks made 11 first ascents and second ascents of Garnet Dome and Peak
Moon Peak, 2,793m GPS: North West Ridge and West Flank at PD+), Peak
Emyr, enjoying rather better weather than Bonney and the Gregsons. Most of
Leni (2,554m GPS: South West Flank and North West Ridge at AD+) and
the climbing was on snow with the occasional rock scramble to finish. Scope
Geodom Pyramide (2,823m GPS: North West Ridge at D-). They also made
for harder lines is extremely limited, as the rock is generally atrocious and
what they believe to be the second ascent of the highest mountain in the range,
obvious gullies few and far between.
the unnamed Pt 3,073m (N
69°13.0', W 29°31.1) via the
South Flank at F. All were ice
climbs of mostly 40°, with
occasional passages of 60° and
one section of UIAA II
rock/mixed.
Continuing south south west
they arrived in the Watkins
Mountains on the 14th day of
their traverse and climbed the
three highest summits with
relative ease: Gunnbjorns Fjeld
(3,694m: South West Ridge at
PD: first climbed by Courtauld et
al in 1933); Dome (3,683m:
traverse by the East Ridge and
ski descent of the West Ridge at
PD-: first climbed by Olsson et al
The view north east from Pt 3,073m, the highest summit of Knud Rasmussen Land. (A) Name Unknown but first climbed by a Tangent expedition in
in 1988) and Cone (3,669m:
2002. (B) Unclimbed. (C) Unclimbed. (D) Peak Leni (2,554m, Csak/Rind, 2008). (E) Name Unknown but first climbed by a Tangent expedition in 2002.
(F) Unclimbed. (G) Vollmondspitze (2,793m, Csak/Rind, 2008). (H) Great Pyramid (Geoff Mason's expedition, 2002). GEORG CSAK
ascent by South Flank and ski
descent of South West Flank at
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a severe storm on the ridge and finally made it back
to camp a full 28 hours after leaving.
The pair now turned north north west and
headed up to the Gronau Nunatakker, where they
completed first ascents of three prominent peaks:
Pilotsbjerg (2,805m: North Flank at PD);
Woerthseespitze (2,762m: East Ridge at AD), and
Kirchl (2,772m: West Ridge at F). Crossing the
Gronau Nunatakker, they then skied north for a
considerable distance to meet their pre-arranged
pick-up flight as reported above. A useful and
detailed report is available at www.arcticsummits.de
The entire southern half of the Knud Rasmussen range showing three peaks climbed by the 2008 German team and plenty of
unclimbed summits for future parties: (A) Geodom Pyramide (2,823m: Csak/Rind, 2008); (B) Unclimbed; (C) Unclimbed; (D)
Peak Leni (2,554m: Cask/Rind, 2008); (E) Unclimbed; (F) Pt 3,073m, the highest peak in the range (two ascents), and (G)
Unclimbed. GEORG CSAK
PD+: also first ascended by Olsson et al in 1988).
These were mostly PD (40°) but long, strenuous
climbs, particularly as they frequently encountered
hard blue ice, an unusual phenomenon at this
altitude in Greenland but possibly caused by the
previous year's extraordinarily warm summer.
Greenland's fourth highest, Paul Emile Victor
(3,609m: first ascent by Lowther et al in 1988)
proved something of a challenge. It was the sixth
known overall ascent of the peak. They climbed by
way of what is likely a new route from the west,
starting from the Dome/Cone base camp and
traversing Deception Dome (3,526m: PD+; first
climbed in 1988 by Lowther et al). The route wound
through massive seracs and ice towers to reach a
steep face with superb views across the entire
Watkins Mountains. They continued south west
along an exposed five-kilometre ridge, dubbed
Jubilation Ridge (3,520m: D-), with the crux a 60°
traverse over poor ice from the crest to the start of
Paul Emile Victor's West Face. This was easier at
AD-. After skiing the West Face, the pair was hit by
Skjoldungen Region
American Mike Libecki made his third visit to a
remote area immediately south of Thor's Land on
the East Coast, and with Josh Helling put up
another major big wall route. This is an area of
abandoned settlements, numerous fjords and fine
granite formations, which the Austrian Erwin
Reinthaler, joint author with Hans Christian Florian
of the 1998 large format production, 'The Unknown
Mountains of East Greenland', once said reminded
him of Yosemite.
The region lies c370km south of Tasiilaq and the
journey from there by boat takes two full days. In
the summer of 2008 Helling and Libecki were
dropped off on the northern bank of the
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This panorama from Deception Dome (3,526m) shows the three highest summits in Greenland. GEORG CSAK
A huge cornice marks the summit of Deception Dome (3,526m), traversed during the first ascent from the west of Paul Emile Victor (3,609m) via the Jubilation Ridge. GEORG CSAK
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THE AUTHORITATIVE MOUNTAINEERING NEWS SERVICE
Looking west along the Morkesund (fjord) with the northern tip of Skjoldungen Island immediately left. The new American route,
Nougatocity (Helling/Libecki, 2008: c600m of climbing: US VI 5.11 A3+) on Discovery Wall, is marked. MIKE LIBECKI
During the first ascent
of Nougatocity on
Discovery Wall. South
across the Morkesund
are peaks at the
northern tip of
Skjoldungen Island.
MIKE LIBECKI
Morkesund, the fjord that separates the northern
tip of Skjoldungen, an island some 48km in length,
from the mainland. Inuit hunters and fishermen lived
on the island until the early 1960s when the
situation for both seriously deteriorated. Tilman,
aboard Mischief, visited Skjoldungen in 1965 and
climbed a few summits.
After enduring wind storms that destroyed their
base camp tent, the two Americans at first had to
battle through rain, ferrying loads up c300m of
steep scree, after which they fixed several pitches.
A total of five days was spent working on the wall,
climbing 11 pitches, half of which followed cracks
as good as any in Yosemite. They named the
feature Discovery Wall, after the boat that carried
them from Tasiilaq, and the route Nougatocity
(c600m of climbing: VI 5.11 A3+), after advertising
blurb on their Snickers Bars, which defined it as, 'a
heightened yet fleeting state of accomplishment
that makes you realize how unbelievably
unmotivated you normally are'.
Discovery Wall lies just east of the venue - Queen
Marie Valley -explored by Libecki in two previous
visits. In 2002 he climbed the Viking's Shield, solo,
via a line he dubbed Giving Birth to Reason
(c1,200m: VI 5.10b A3+: SEE SEPTEMBER 2003
INFO). He returned the following year with John
Burcham and Shinichi Sakamoto to climb Way of
the Banjo (c1,300m: IV 5.10b) on a tower the
climbers named Mount Queen Lilliana (SEE
SEPTEMBER 2004 INFO). Summer daylight here is
24 hours, but the mosquitoes are as bad (or worse)
than other parts of Greenland and, as always by
the coast, the possibility of seeing polar bear, whilst
rare, cannot be completely ruled out.
SOUTH GREENLAND - CAPE FAREWELL
REGION
Kangikitsoq Fjord
In 2005 Dutch climber Roland Bekendam climbed
Titan I from the Tasermiut Fjord (see MARCH 2007
INFO). The summit panorama was memorable due
to the distant 1,500m high West Pillar of Pt
2,106m, and he resolved to return. Arriving mid
July in the Tupassat Valley at the end of the
Kangikitsoq Fjord with Jefta Smit and Sjors
Verbrugge, he discovered that the main pillar and
smaller adjacent pillars were too compact to be
climbed in the alpine-style that he had envisaged,
so turned to the only feasible line, the South West
Pillar, well to the right, which was first climbed in
1986 by the French Bouquier, Creton and Veronese
(c1,400m: TD+). With Bekandam suffering from flu,
Smit and Verbrugge set out for the route but found
the 700m snow couloir used to access the
headwall in 1986 had now almost disappeared.
Instead they followed low-angle rock to the right,
bivouacked after 700m and then continued next
day to a point 100m below the summit, at which
point darkness was impending. Having left all their
equipment at the site, they decided to retreat,
rather than spend a miserable night out. To their
high point difficulties had been F5-6a+ on loose
granite, interspersed with sections of 3. This peak
was first summited in 1974 by the British pair David
Cornell and Tim Hurrell via the South East Ridge.
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Jefta Smit on easier slabs leading to the bivouac site on the South Face of the Battle Axe.
The headwall above was avoided on the left via the South West Face. SJORS
Peaks above the Kirgikitsoq Fjord. ROLAND BEKENDAM
VERBRUGGE/ROLAND BEKENDAM COLLECTION
JAN 2010 WWW.CLIMBMAGAZINE.COM 67
THE AUTHORITATIVE MOUNTAINEERING NEWS SERVICE
The Battle Axe (1,852m) from the south east. (1) South face - Arctic Fox
(Bekendam/Smit/Verbrugge, 2008: 1,000m: 6a+: upper section on the South West Face
invisible). (B) The bivouac site. (2) South East Face (Richey/Wilford, 2000: 1,050m: ED2: US V
5.10 A1). ROLAND BEKENDAM
All three climbers then walked up the Qinnguadalen Valley for an attempt on
the South Face of Battle Axe (1,852m). This prominent rock peak, which may
have another name but was called the Battle Axe by the Anglo-American
expedition that climbed it in 2000, was first ascended as long ago as 1957 by
a French expedition that achieved many climbs in this region. This team
followed up initial exploration during the previous year by a French-Swiss
expedition comprising experienced alpinists of the day, such as Louis Dubost,
Claude Kogan and Roger Merle, which made almost a dozen ascents from the
Kangikitoq Fjord.
The Dutch camp below the South Face was visited during the night before
the climb by an arctic fox, which dragged away any equipment that it could
get between its teeth and refused to leave, keeping the climbers awake most
of the night. Next day the three climbed eight pitches of 4+to 6a+ and then a
further eight on lower angled granite (2-4). These led to a series of ledges
that they followed left to good bivouac sites. Although the team had carried
20 litres of water, these proved unnecessary as good water streaks were
found nearby.
On the 1st August the trio climbed three pitches up left to the crest of a spur
(4-5), where a line of chimneys and cracks on the South West Face led, in a
further four pitches (5-6a), to the summit ridge. Three more easy pitches along
the crest led to the pointed summit block. Here, the three discovered a small
film cartridge under a pile of stones. Inside was note from Henri Bouchez from
the 1957 French team, and another from four Scottish climbers from a St.
Andrews University expedition, who had summited the peak in July 1971 . In
August 2000, American Mark Richey and Mark Wilford spent three days
climbing the South East Face (21 pitches and 1,050m of climbing: ED2: 5.10
and A1: see JUNE 2001 INFO). The Dutch also left a note of their ascent,
which seems likely the fourth overall, and then rappelled their route, equipping
most belays with one hand-drilled 9 mm stainless steel bolt. The name for their
1,000m route obviously had to be Arctic Fox. The granite is sound and the
authors can certainly recommend the route to future parties.
A few days later Bekendam and Verbrugge attempted Pt 1,776m from the
glacier to its south, but a serac barrier blocked the way to the upper glacier
basin below the South Face. The team note that serac barriers are common
on many of the mountains in this area, making climbing complicated.
INFO: Roland Bekendam/Georg CsakJ/Anthony Garvey/Jim
Gregson/Patrick Huber/Mike Libecki/Olly Sanders/Nat Spring and the
reference source of the American Alpine Journal