JSAS jersey shore aquarium society

July, 2013 Volume 24, No 7 The Official Publication of the Jersey Shore Aquarium Society www.jerseyshoreas.org THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 2
ARE TROPHEUS DIFFICULT?
BY KLAUS STEINHAUS (2007)
FROM THE CICHLID ROOM COMPANION
WWW.CICHLIDAE.COM
There have been many articles written about these
fish, many good ones and also a few bad ones. Tropheus ilangi
However, I felt compelled to write this article because I still sense a lot of bad vibes when it comes
to these beautiful cichlids. Many hobbyists still feel
scared of giving them a try because the reputation
they have is not the best.
We now know what to feed them
and what to stay away from
When talking to my fellow cichlid lovers, the answers I get are usually the same: "They are way
too difficult to keep" or "They are way too expensive". Another argument is "I would like a nice community tank". Well, with this article I will try to remove some of these arguments and fears. OK, I
admit suffering from the "Tropheus Syndrome" because I am a Tropheus nut. Since keeping my first group in the mid 1970's, I have been fascinated with
the behavior of them, their social structure and their liveliness. A tank full of Tropheus is never boring to
me. So please, take this article with a "grain of salt" because it's hard for me to stay impartial.
These fish have been around for quite some time. Discovered by J.E.S. Moore in 1896, and described
two years later by George Boulenger, Tropheus did not get into our aquariums until 1956. The first variant to make it was Tropheus sp. "Black", and from that time on the cichlid hobby has never been the
same. Very few cichlids had the ability to turn our hobby upside down like the Tropheus. The only one
coming to mind is the discus. The prices we had to pay for these fish were astronomical 35 years ago,
but that did not stop us cichlid nuts from buying them. At the time, knowledge about Tropheus was still
fairly limited as to their dietary requirements and behavior, and so a lot of hobbyists' dreams literally
went down the toilet.
Much has changed since then due to the research and observations of people like Ad Konings, Peter
Schupke, Wolfgang Staeck and many others. We now know what to feed them and what to stay away
from. We know that we need to keep them in larger groups and not to disturb their social structure. Now
I am far away from being an "expert", but having kept these fish for over 30 years, I have learned many
things the hard way. This article is strictly based on my experience and will hopefully help somebody
else to save a lot of grief and money.
Tropheus ikola
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 3
OK, let's get to it. The first thing I tell anybody who has never kept Tropheus is that they are much easier
to keep than many other cichlids. That is a fact and has been proven many times over. To keep any fish,
you have to obey some rules. No difference here. There are several things to consider before you go out
and buy yourself some Tropheus:
Do you have enough time to look after them properly? Tropheus are happiest with a set

regimen like the same feeding time each day and at least one 40% water change weekly. You
should watch them every day at feeding time and look for any unusual behavior.
Do you have enough space for your new beauties? Tropheus can be quite aggressive and

need to be kept in groups of at least 12-15 specimens. That requires a tank of 250 liters (65 gallons) as an absolute minimum. It would be better to start with a group of 18-20 specimens in a
350 or 380 liters (90 or 100 gallons) tank to give them the necessary swim room they need and
to spread the aggression.
Do you know which Tropheus variant you would like to keep? My recommendation is to

start with a group of 15 - 20 juvenile Tropheus duboisi of about 3.8 - 5 cm. (1½" – 2") in size and
let them grow up together. This will pretty much guarantee you a good functioning group.
Do you want a species only tank or a community tank? The statement that Tropheus have

to be kept in species only tanks is, in my opinion, misleading and not correct. Yes, it is the best
and easiest way to keep these cichlids, but it is not an absolute must. The problem is to find
other species that will match their dietary requirements and their temperament. The good thing
is that we have a very nice and interesting selection of possible tank mates available to us. Petrochromis, Tanganicodus, Eretmodus and Spathodus species are ideal company for our Tropheus. Simochromis & Pseudosimochromis would also fit the requirements nicely.

What type of filtration will you use? Tropheus need clean water to thrive and stay healthy,
so good filtration is a necessity.
Once you have made up your mind on these items, the fun part begins. Get your tank set up and
cycled. Don't rush (I know it's not easy to be patient). Give the tank some time to develop into a
healthy environment. Watch the water parameters like nitrite, nitrate, pH and hardness.
As for the decoration of a Tropheus tank,
well people have different opinions and
Tropheus bemba
tastes. I like to offer my fish an environment that is as close as possible to their
natural habitat. I absolutely hate bare
tanks because they only serve the purpose of the owner and not the fish. Some
sand or fine gravel will do just fine as substrate. For the rock structure, I like to use
limestone pieces as large as I can get into
the tank and build it in the two corners
right up to the surface. Large rocks have
several advantages. They make the tank
look larger and more natural, plus you
only have to take out a few rocks to catch
a holding female. Just make sure that
your rocks are stacked securely.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 4
Breeding these cichlids is not a very difficult task
The next item to discuss is food. Tropheus are herbivorous cichlids that live along the rocky shoreline
where the sun is capable of penetrating the clear water, helping to produce an algae layer on the rocks.
This layer is usually covered with sediment due to the constant surf. This sediment covered algae layer
is called "aufwuchs" and represents the natural food source for our Tropheus. Since it is impossible to
recreate this aufwuchs layer under aquarium conditions, we have to find a substitute that comes close
and that is where opinions differ. I have tried many types and brands of food and have found that a
good spirulina flake works best for me. However, the variety of food being offered these days is immense and sometimes a bit confusing for a newcomer to our hobby. I know of a number of people that
feed small pellets exclusively and their fish are doing well too. I have tried these pellets with my fish
without success so I keep feeding the flake because my fish seem to like it better.
I have seen many hobbyists keeping different Tropheus variants together in the same tank. This practice is something to be very careful with. It is my goal to keep any species I maintain pure, meaning to
keep them as they are in nature. By keeping different variants together you give them the chance to
interbreed and produce hybrids that eventually will get out to other hobbyists. However, there are some
combinations where the possibility of interbreeding is fairly minimal. Some examples are T. duboisi and
T. moorii or T. duboisi and T. brichardi or T. moorii and T. brichardi. I too have at times used one of
these combinations due to space restraints for a short time period and have had no problems, but there
is never a 100% guarantee. Given the right circumstances, they will interbreed.
Breeding these cichlids is not a very difficult task. Conditioning the females seems to create the only
problem. The actual breeding is the same as all mouth brooders. A Tropheus female usually breeds
about 4–6 times per year and their clutch size is very small. Anywhere from 5–15 fry per spawn is a
common result. The fry, after being held by the female for about 4 weeks, are already 10–12 mm in size
and look like completely finished miniature Tropheus. They will stay close to the female and she will
take them back into her mouth if threatened.
In closing, I would like to say to all cichlid lovers that have not had the pleasure of maintaining these
beautiful fish: "Don't be afraid of them. They are much easier to keep than you think, and the only real
danger is that you too will catch the "Tropheus Syndrome" and get hooked on these amazing cichlids”.
Submitted by Jake Blatt, Exchange Editor THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 5
Join us for Our
Next Meeting:
JUly 8
At 8:00 pm
Our Featured Guest:
Lenny Mackowiak
Killies
Join us for an interesting talk about
Killies followed by raffle prizes and our
monthly auction.
Meeting Calendar—2013
ALL MEETINGS BEGIN AT 8:00 PM UNLESS NOTED OTHERWISE
AUGUST—NO MEETING
SEPTEMBER 9—Rachel O’Leary—Microfish & Inverts
OCTOBER 14—Bowl Show & New Product Showcase
NOVEMBER 11—TBA
DECEMBER 9—Holiday Party at 7:00 pm
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 6
JSAS jersey shore aquarium society 2013 OFFICERS & LEADERSHIP
PRESIDENT Chris Metta [email protected] VICE PRESIDENT Bill Loesch [email protected] TREASURER Norman Gruenfeld [email protected] RECORDING SECRETARY Position is now open PAST PRESIDENTS Shelly Kirschenbaum [email protected] Matt Siegel [email protected] Al Giancola The Jersey Shore Aquarium Society meets at 8:00 p.m. on the second Monday every month (except August) at The Knights of Columbus Hall on Route 537 (70 East Main Street) in Freehold, New Jersey. Each meeting typically features an interesting slide or video presentation of related tropical fish topics. Our presenters are often professionals or experienced hob‐
byists in their respective fields. WEBSITE Jeff Compell [email protected] MAP PROGRAM Nancy Villars/Hallgring [email protected] MEMBERSHIP Nancy Villars/Hallgring [email protected] BAP PROGRAM Michael Palmese [email protected] SPEAKERS/PROGRAMS Position is now open NEC LIASON Nancy Villars/Hallgring [email protected] EXCHANGE EDITOR Jake Blatt [email protected] THE SHORELINE EDITOR Matt Siegel [email protected] ANNUAL DUES: Single Membership—$20.00 Family Membership—$30.00; couples ages 17 years old and above who attend regular meetings together. Junior Membership—$10.00; 16 years old or younger attending meetings on their own. Such membership re‐
quires written approval by a parent/guardian. Guests—$5.00; applicable towards membership at that meeting. PAYMENT OF DUES: Membership dues are due in full at the time of joining regardless of the time of year. Dues will be prorated for the second year of membership. www.jerseyshoreas.org
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 7
JSAS membership rewards Your JSAS Membership Card entitles you to valuable discounts at these great retailers. Be sure to show your current membership card at checkout for your discount. JSAS membership has its privileges. We must support those who support us.
Restrictions may apply. See retailer for details. Absolutely Fish, Clifton 15% Discount (excludes sale items) Adam’s Pet Safari, Warren & Chester 15% Discount Air Water & Ice www.AirWaterIce.com 10% Discount—Use promo code # 39769 + Free Shipping over $150—Use promo code # 99090 All About Pets, Sea Girt (JSAS Member) 20% discount—Fish & Aquarium Drygoods Allquatics, Hamilton 15% Discount Jim Straughn’s Aquarium, Feasterville, PA 15% Discount Ocean Gallery Aquatics, N. Plainfield 15% Discount Pet Shanty, Scotch Plains 10% Discount—Fish & Aquarium Drygoods Red Sand Aquarium, Dunellen 10% Discount—Marine Reef to Reptiles, Ocean 10% Discount Shark Aquarium, Hillside 15% Discount Sharkey’s Aquarium, Point Pleasant 10% Discount (excluding feeder fish/shrimp) Tropiquarium, Ocean 10% Discount—Fish Only Vladiscus, Feasterville, PA 10% Discount Your Fish Stuff www.YourFishStuff.com 10% Discount—Use promo code ‘jsas’ WWW.JERSEYSHOREAS.ORG THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 8
ALL ABOUT PETS
Attention JSAS Members:
20% Discount (Fish & Aquarium)
Hamsters—Lizards—Birds—Rabbits & Fish
Habitats—Foods—Treats & Supplies...
All at Great Prices!
With Helpful Service!
Stop In Today—Route 35 & Sea Girt Avenue in Sea Girt
Call for Directions (732) 223-4530
Ask for Bill & Mention JSAS
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 9
JINKS hobby happenings I’ve always wanted to write an article or do a program on: “Collecting
Tropical Fish in the Northeastern United States”. Over the years at many conventions I’ve seen a lot of programs on collecting tropical fish in South America, Africa or Asia. I always explain in my programs that I’ve never collected tropical
fish in any of these exotic places. Most of my collecting has been done in the fishrooms of fish friends in NJ, NY, PA, CT, and MA.
On my last trip to NJ in May I spoke Thursday night at the North Jersey
Aquarium Society (my first club) and brought twenty five bags of fish for BAP
points, donations to the club auction and trades with fish friends. I gathered five
species of fish and didn’t have any room to even look at the well-stocked monthly
auction at NJAS. I was staying with a friend for the following week and had to
keep the fish alive in his basement (he’s not a fish person but has two German
shepherds). I had brought five plastic containers with lids (5 gallon size) and my
show box with pumps, airline, chemicals, nets, etc.
I set up the fish in his basement with air pumps and added some crushed
coral to all (pH buffer) and cichlid lake salts to some. I did daily water changes
(about 50%) using a water conditioner for chlorine and ammonia. The fish did
very well in these conditions and made it back to NC eight days later.
The fish included Cyprichromis leptosoma “Mpimbwe Black Bee” (3
males, 2 females; six Lamprologus cylindricus (1 ½”); A bunch of young (1”) Pelmatochromis buettikoferi (West African substrate spawner I’ve never worked
with); five Pachypanchax sakaramyi (Madagascar killifish); and six Xiphophorus
clemenciae from Rusty Wessel’s stock. Since getting them home I’ve only lost
one of the Pelmatochromis so far.
The Wednesday following the NJAS talk, I did my fishroom program at the
Metropolitan Area Killifish Association meeting. I bid in their monthly auction
and brought home some aquatic treasures. A pair of blue gularis (Fundulopanchax
sjostedti); a pair of chocolate australe (Aphyosemion australe); a pair of Epiplatys
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 10
roloffi; and two pairs of Fundulopanchax gardneri innidere. I transported
the killies home the very next day in Glad containers with holes in the lids. They
all survived the nine hour trip home and were transferred to 2 ½ gallon plastic
tanks, but the next day I found the female E. roloffi dead and the next day the female blue gularis (that one hurt!).
We always talk about our successes, but not often of our defeats. I always
have the attitude that I’m going to spawn all of the fish I obtain, but transport and
acclimation sometimes are not successful. With all the travel I’ve done in the past
three months (six talks in four states) my fishroom suffered a bit. The adults did
fine, but I lost a lot of fry. I’ve had Archocentrus panamensis spawn twice and
lost the fry. A female is sitting on eggs again as I write this. I’ve only raised four
½” fry from the first two spawns.
I lost fry from Corydoras schwartzi and Corydoras panda and also lost a
bunch of rainbow fry and some killifish fry. I’ll be traveling again the second
weekend in June for a family college graduation party. I’ve been taking a lot of
rainbow and killifish eggs, since I figure I’ll be home by the time they hatch and
I’ll be able to keep them alive!
I’m already looking forward to the Atlanta fall auction in September, the
NJAS 60th Anniversary in October, and the Raleigh AS fall auction later in October. In 2014 there’s the Catfish convention and maybe the ACA and ALA as well.
I’ll keep busy………..
Submitted by Larry Jinks, BAP Master Breeder THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 11
FOTM fish of the month Epiplatys annulatus
Common name – The clown killie
Origin –Far western Africa known
in the trade as the clown killie—
Epiplatys annulatus. Coming from
the swamps and slow-flowing forest streams of southern Guinea, Sierra Leone, and Liberia.
Size – Clown killies are tiny fish,
with the larger males topping out
at just over an inch and a half
while females barely reach an
inch.
Color – Both sexes are cream colored with four wide black bands beginning just behind the
head. The dorsal fin in males can be cream colored, pale red, or even bright blue, this blue
often containing some red. In females, the dorsal fin is clear. The caudal fin is pale to sky blue
in males with the middle extended rays being bright red. In some variants, this red can be a
pale orange color, while in others it can be almost yellow with bright red lines above and below. Some specimens have bright blue outlining the red. The anal fins of males can be blue,
blue outlined in red, red outlined in blue, or even bright red, again depending on the variant.
Those of females are usually clear to pale amber. The ventral fins of males are pale red,
bright orange, bright red, or even nearly clear, with those of females being mostly clear. To
finish off, there is a bright spot on the top of the head behind the eyes that is visible from
above.
Food – Feeding is simple. In the wild, their feeding behaviors are much like those of the larger
predators we know as pike—only with much smaller foods. They don’t chase down their food.
Rather, they lie in wait just below the surface, waiting for flying insects to land on the water.
The clown killies then quickly strike and gobble these unfortunate insects up. In captivity, hobbyists can replicate this diet with live foods like fruit flies, the tiny confused flour beetles and
their larvae (not to be mistaken for the larger red flour beetles, which are too large for clown
killies to eat), and mosquito larvae. In addition, they will take newly hatched brine shrimp,
nematodes (microworms, Walter worms, and vinegar eels), Moina, small Daphnia, copepods,
small Grindal worms, and other tiny critters. Feed once or twice a day. Some individual fish
will take frozen versions of these foods, but most will ignore anything that is non-living. They
generally ignore flakes completely, so if you can’t provide live foods, it might be better to try
your hand with some other fish first.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 12
Water – Water parameters are important, especially if you want to get the fish to spawn. As I
mentioned earlier, they are found in areas with relatively warm, soft, acidic water. Temperatures should be maintained between about 75° and 80°F, with a pH around 6.0, and a total
hardness of about 50 ppm with little or nothing in the way of measurable carbonates. The easiest way to do this is to precondition the water in a small bucket or tank with a box filter loaded
with waterlogged peat. Allow the water to circulate in the tank for a few days until it takes on a
slight amber color. It will now be just about perfect for clown killies. Without filtration, I prefer to
perform a 50-percent or larger water change on the tank, siphoning water from the bottom,
every three days or so. This keeps pollutants from building up and keeps the clowns in top
form.
Sexing – The dorsal fin in males can be cream colored, pale red, or even bright blue, this blue
often containing some red. In females, the dorsal fin is clear.
Breeding – They can be kept as pairs but seem to do best and reproduce best in small
groups. You can keep two or three pairs in a 2-gallon tank, or up to 6 or 8 pairs in a 10-gallon
tank. The males will squabble a bit among themselves, but they will still find plenty of time for
spawning.If you keep them happy with plenty of live foods, floating plants for cover, and plenty
of water changes, they will do what comes naturally and spawn. There are several methods
used by different breeders and all work well. Read them, try the various methods, and decide
for yourself what works best for you.
Some breeders like to use nylon spawning mops instead of floating plants, adding several of
them to the tank, andE. annulatus will lay their eggs right in the mops. Some breeders will
remove the mops each day and pick out the eggs by hand (they are tough and can withstand
being handled). The eggs are then placed in a shallow dish on a layer of damp peat moss.
This dish is either covered or placed in a bag, and the eggs are allowed to develop for about
two weeks. At this point, all of the eggs are placed in a small container full of water. They
quickly hatch, often within an hour or so of being added to water. The advantage here is that
all fry are the same age and size, so feeding is easier.
Other breeders will allow the adults to spawn in the mops for several days and then remove
the egg-laden mops to a separate tank to hatch. This method is a bit less intensive, but it results in fry that are of different sizes and in different stages of growth, so a mixture of foods
must be used to make sure all of the fry get enough to eat.
Clown killies will spawn nearly every day if given conditions to their liking—along with members of the opposite sex, of course. As with most daily spawners, they don’t lay many eggs
with each spawn, but this can be manipulated so they spawn when you want them to. Separate the sexes and condition the fish on extra feedings of live foods for several days before
putting them together. They will begin spawning soon after being introduced to their opposites. Leave them in the spawning tank for a few days, feeding them all the while. Many
breeders like to add a large amount of Daphnia to the spawning tank. The adult fish will eat
the younger Daphnia, and the adultDaphnia will consume bacteria and other small critters in
the water column until they themselves are eaten. TheDaphnia do not harm the eggs or even
newly hatched fry.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 13
Aquarium – Housing can also be a simple affair. Since they don’t really like a lot of movement in
the water, filtration is optional. In fact, it’s actually best to avoid it. Give them a planted tank instead, with plenty of floating plants on the surface. Plants like water sprite Ceratopteris sp., water
lettuce Pistia stratiotes, Riccia, Salvinia, red-root floater Phyllanthus fluitans, and frogbit Limnobium sp. provide a refuge for their eggs and the newly hatched fry, as well as a feeling
of security for the adults. The roots of plants like water sprite, water lettuce, and red-root floater
that hang down into the water are perfect sites for the clown killie’s eggs. A small amount of Java
moss and a small amount of peat such as the quantity from one peat pellet (available from garden stores) can serve as covering for the bottom of the tank.
A long, low tank with a lot of surface area is preferable to a deeper tank, as they will only use
the top 5 or 6 inches of water anyway. For a display tank you can use one designed for keeping reptiles. Many breeders simply use plastic sweater boxes or plastic shoeboxes. Whatever
you decide to use, make sure that it has a secure top, as they are excellent jumpers.
Since there will be no filtration in the tank, water quality will completely rely upon proper feeding and water changes. While you could add scavengers like small snails or even small shrimp
such as cherry shrimp Neocaridinasp. to the tank to help clean up missed food, these scavengers are not above eating the clown killie’s tiny eggs. Instead, just perform plenty of regular
water changes with water of similar parameters to those of the water in their tank, as previously outlined.
Raising the Fry - Newly hatched E. annulatus are very tiny and need the smallest of live foods
for the first few days. Green water (free-floating green algae cultured so that it is so dense the
water actually turns green) is an excellent first food. This can be supplemented with infusoria.
They should be continuously surrounded by food either dripped in or poured into the rearing
tank. They will also graze upon the microscopic life that lives on the plants, but there won’t be
enough of it to rely upon as the only source of food unless there are a lot of plants and very
few fry.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 14
After about three or four days, they will have grown large enough to take smaller species
of Paramecium and young nematodes. Feed these foods at least two to three times a day or
more if possible. These new foods should be mixed in with the smaller foods for a day or two
until all of the fry are able to feed upon the new foods. Vinegar eels work best, as they stay
near the surface where the young killies will be hunting. In a pinch, you could also use microworms or Walter worms, but remember that these will slowly sink out of reach of the young
killies and eventually die. Therefore, the bottom of the tank will need to be siphoned every couple of days to prevent fouling by the dead worms.
After a week or so, the fry will be large enough to take newly hatched brine shrimp, of the
smaller San Franciscosubspecies. Again, the new food should be mixed with the old food for a
few days until you’re sure that all of the fry are taking the new food. These should be fed at
least twice a day. All along, continue to add some sort of nematodes at each feeding, in addition to whatever else you’re feeding. From this point on, growth will be slow but steady, and
after two weeks, they can take newly hatched Utah brine shrimp and other foods similar to
what you are feeding the adults. While they will reach sexual maturity at about six to eight
weeks of age and may start breeding soon thereafter, they don’t reach full size for about
four to five months.
Note of interest – With their bright colors, clown killies are always in demand and make excellent additions to a small-fish community tank. Given proper conditions and plenty of live foods,
they can also be spawned and raised by the hobbyist willing to give them the extra attention
they need. Color, challenge, popularity, and a size that allows breeding in a shoebox—what
more could a hobbyist ask for in a fish?
Submitted by Steve Hallgring, FOTM Editor THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 15
BAP breeders awards program 1
Larry Jinks
3050
22
70
23
24
Jesse Reddin
Jennifer Palmese
Gary Wong
Chris & Matt Metta
2
3
Michael Palmese
Dean Majorino
1420
1290
4
Richard Janssen
825
25
Kimberly Palmese
55
5
Frank Nell
730
26
Bob & Lauren Hicks
45
6
Dave Leshinsky
370
7
John Wares
325
27
40
8
Bill Loesch
300
Tony Gallirio
Barbara & Dan DeCross
9
Anthony Metta
290
28
30
10
Robert Janssen
270
29
Herb Frietsch
Klaus Huenecke
Adam Gwizdz
Gary & Cindy Silver
11
Bill Arndt
265
12
Rory Lay
240
13
Leonard Reback
225
14
Jim Sorge
200
30
Frank Policastro
Bill Barbito
Jeff Compell
20
15
Lothar Koenigstein
200
31
16
Luis Morales
165
10
17
Shelly Kirschenbaum
135
18
Nancy Villars
140
Dave Maxwell
James Golazeski
Frank Brown
Louis Mauro
19
Dave Salkin
100
5
20
Charles Smith
Jim Costello
Tony Angso
Michelle Palmese
90
David Cohen
Bill Guest
Stephen Morgan
21
32
85
REMINDER:
There will be no meeting in August.
65
60
25
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 16
BAP Spawns for the Month of June 2013
Labidiochromis Perlmutt – Kimberly Palmese
Tilapia Snyderae– Michael Palmese
Aulonocara Korneliae– Michael Palmese
Pseudotropheus williamsi– Rory Lay
Xiphophorus Helleri Swordtails– Adam Gwizdz
Pleurodeles Walti Iberian/Spanish Ribbed Newt–Dean Majorino
Submitted by Mike Palmese, BAP Chair 1)
1-1 pound can of brine shrimp eggs - A grade - $48 ea
2)
3-1 pound can of brine shrimp eggs - D grade - $10 ea
(50 %+/- hatch rate)
3)
Gray lava lace stone 75+ lbs at $1.00 a pound (stone
does not contain calcium )
Please call Dean @ 732-679-5864 if interested.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 17
Contact: Call Luis Morales at 732-216-4235
EMail: [email protected]
Where: 4 Wellington Rd, East Brunswick, NJ 08816
Rack: ($75 does not include aquariums)
1 Rack that hold 6 20 gal long aquariums each ( 3 shelves
for 2 - 20gal tanks each) with room on the bottom for two
more or for storage space.
Aquariums: ($1/gal)
7 - 10 gal
1 - 15 gal
1 - 20 gal High
11 - 20gal Long
1 - iron stand for 20gal High $10
1 - 29gal
1 - 40 gal Breeder (drilled)
2 - 55gal
FREE Aquariums - I have several others with slate bottoms and stainless steel frames, many with some kind of
crack that would have to be repaired. Take one FREE with purchase of any aquarium.
Filters & Air Pumps:
1. Various sponge filters, home made and commercial, some hydro sponge parts ($1-3 depending on size and
condition)
2. New in box Tetra water wonder decorative whisper filter for 20gal aquarium (brand new in the box) - $20
New in box Wardley Sandman Fluidized Bed Technology Filter for Fresh and Saltwater Aquariums, 3-Stage
Power Filtration System for 10 - 38 Gallon Aquariums - $10
Marine Filters/Protein Skimmers:
New in box Supreme Skilter 250 Power Filter/Skimmer for tanks up to 55gal - $45
Used Supreme Skilter 250 Power Filter/Skimmer 250g/hr - $15
New Red Sea Berlin Venturi Protein Skimmer 25-250gal - $50
New in box Fluidized bed sand filter for tanks up to 250gal - $50
Other items:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Power heads - $5-10 (depending on size)
Used Brass threaded valves - $.75 each. New are $1.50 each.
Gravel & Sand - $2-$5 (depending on bag/box size/bag, limited qty)
Crushed Coral - $0.25/lb (limited qty)
Coral pieces (NOT LIVE) Small - $4, Medium - $6, Large - $8
Aquarium decorations, large/small PVC caves, pots, artificial plants, etc.
Rocks (lava, lace/rainbow, others) approximate sizes sml (3”x4”) - $4, Med (5”x6”) - $6, Lrg (8”x8-10”) - $8
TFH & FAMA Magazines
Used Gast Regenair Regenerative blower. - $250
Model No R3105 1/2HP at 60Hz, 3,450 rpm, CFM 53. It big enough to provide air for a good sized pet store. I had
it supplying air to about 50 plus tanks of various depths and still needed to bleed off air. Its in good shape but does
need a new air filter. A new blower will costs between $625 - $650.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 18
Handmade Ceramic Spawning
Caves, Logs and Discus Cones
SOUTH
CENTRAL
CICHLIDS
MONTHLY AUCTION RULES
All auction items will have a minimum bid as follows:
Fish & Drygoods—Minimum Bid
Live Plants—Minimum Bid
$
3
All caves are handmade in our Port
Monmouth facility from food-grade
stoneware clay. They are natural
looking with a wood-grain finish.
Thick-walled construction means
they’ll last a lifetime. Choose from
three colors: Brick, Buff or Walnut.
$
5
$
The JSAS split will be just 1. We
give everything else to the consignor
of the lot. Do you have successful
spawns in your fishroom? Do you
have good quality drygoods collecting dust on your shelves?
Try the JSAS Monthly Auction!
www.SouthCentralCichlids.com
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 19
JSAS is pleased to support our sister clubs!
Brooklyn Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:30 pm on the 2nd Friday each month (except July and August) at the Educational Hall of the New York Aquarium at Coney Island, Surf Avenue at West 8th
Street. www.BASNY.org
North Jersey Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:45 pm every 3rd Thursday each month (except August—
Picnic; December—Holiday Party) at the Lyndhurst Elks Club, 251 Park Avenue, Lyndhurst, NJ.
www.njas.net
Bucks County Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:30 pm on the 1st Thursday each month (except August)
at the Churchville Nature Center, 501 Churchville Lane, Churchville, PA. www.bcasonline.com
Delaware County Aquarium Society—Meets at 8:00 pm on the 1st Friday each month (except July
and August) at the Springfield Township Building, 50 Powell Road, Springfield, PA. www.dcas.us
Garden State Betta Association—Meets the 2nd Sunday each month at Frank Siracusa’s house.
Contact him for details: [email protected]
Aquarium Club of Lancaster County—Meets at 1:00 pm on the 3rd Saturday each month at That Fish
Place, 237 Centerville Road, Lancaster, PA. http://aclcpa.org
Northeast Council of Aquarium Societies (NEC)—As a JSAS member in good standing, you are
automatically a member of NEC. For more information, visit www.NorthEastCouncil.org or speak with
Nancy Villars/Hallgring at an upcoming meeting.
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Page 20
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY Editor: Exchange Editor: Matthew Siegel [email protected] Jake Blatt [email protected] Any material reprinted from The Shoreline for noncommercial use, unless previously copyrighted by the au‐
thor, credit must be bestowed to the author and The Shoreline. One copy shall be forwarded to the Editor. The Shoreline accepts contributions from members and non‐members and prints submissions as space per‐
mits. We are always seeking articles about keeping or breeding fish, maintaining a fishroom, photos, anec‐
dotes, etc. If you’re interested in seeing your submission published, please send via email to [email protected]. Submission deadline is the last Friday of the month for the following month’s issue. Members in good standing can place ads at no charge. Send ad copy by email to: [email protected] The Shoreline is published monthly (except August) and distributed via email to members in good standing and online at www.jerseyshoreas.org. You can read The Shoreline on your iPad. Open your monthly email attachment using iBooks to read and archive every issue of The Shoreline.
iPad and iPhoneare registered trademarks of Apple, Inc. JSAS is Proud to Support:
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