Canberra – Capital and Country Convivium (4Cs)

Canberra – Capital and Country Convivium
(4Cs)
Autumn 2015 News
From the Convivium Leader
Ian is the one on the left
Hi to all
Having just experienced another awe-inspiring
visit to Wynlen House on 17 May, I can vouch
that Bronwyn [Richards] and Helen [Lynch] are
certainly living out a Slow Food existence on
their 1 1/4 acre property in Braidwood. Bronwyn
grows and produces an amazing array of
seasonal vegetables and small farm animals for
their own consumption and sale in the local
community, and Helen is the cook and leading
hand.
Vol 2 No 2
Later in this newsletter:
Meet your producer –
Kim de Poorter, chef
Slow Food National Conference
COGS Garden Visit
Recipe : chorizo, potato and cider
Visit to Tweenhills Chestnut Farm
Book Review:
The Bread and Butter Project
Slow Food Canberra does passata
Slow Food at Expo 2015 (Milan)
ACT Food Policy and Food Plan
Acknowledging a SF friend
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__________________________________
Contact us at:
[email protected]
Check us out at: www.slowfoodcanberra.com
Find out more about Slow Food International
at: www.slowfood.com
“Like” us on Facebook at: Slow Food Canberra
Once again we were given a guided tour around
and Capital Convivium
the estate. Our last visit was at the end of
August, so we experienced almost diametrically
opposite seasonal experiences. That time many seedlings had just been planted, piggies
roamed the paddock and baby turkeys were being reared for Xmas. This time there was still an
abundance of produce from the ground and trees to be picked, including cabbages, broccoli,
kale, pumpkins, apples and pears to name only some. Now, the geese and ducks roamed
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the paddocks - separated as they preferred
their own territory. Well, all except for one
goose who preferred the company of ducks,
one duck in particular it seemed!
The other similarity was the fabulous spread
for lunch - all Wynlen’s own produce, of
course, though supplemented by Dojo
bread, Lea’s hand made cheeses and
Georgie’s chocolates. Some local Braidwood
people filled out the table, and we again
enjoyed magnificent weather!! We were
blessed on both occasions.
The other exciting development we were
informed about was that Bronwyn has taken
on managing the Braidwood Garlic Growers
Project, a project funded through the Upper
Shoalhaven Landcare Council. The idea is
that with Braidwood being a very cool
climate region it potentially can grow late
season, long storage varieties of garlic
which are yet to be commercially available
on the mainland. [Current limited
availability in Tasmania]. Now that’s gotta
be good!
[PS: AKA the Holy Grail Garlic project, as it
is being grown on a plot of land owned by
the Anglican Church just up the road from
Wynlen House.]
In other news Slow Food Canberra news,
Greg and Chris Stuart of Minto Galloway
cattle fame [their long hair Galloway cattle
are listed in Slow Food’s Ark of Taste], are
off to Slow Food USA’s Slow Meat
Conference to held in Denver, Colorado in
June. Greg and Chris are going as
representatives of Slow Food in Oz and SF
Canberra will be assisting them in getting
them there. Our main fund raising effort
will be our Slow Soup Kitchens at local
markets over the next few months. So,
keep tuned to your events update to find
out when and where they are, come along
have some soup and feel free to contribute
generously!
Also in this newsletter, the feature article is
on Kim De Poorter, a long time member and
supporter of Slow Food who would be
known to those who frequent EPIC and/or
Southside Farmers markets. Kim was
sponsored by Slow Food Canberra to attend
Terra Madre/Salon de Gusto in 2008, an
experience he will never forget. An
experience no one forgets or regrets, I
suggest.
In other good news, we have now a new
membership and information brochure for
Slow Food Canberra - Capital & Country
Convivium [4Cs]. This means that renewing
members now have the option of rejoining
locally rather than going through Slow Food
International - contact Nick by email at
[email protected] for all
the relevant details.
In less happy news, Neville Bleakley, a long
time committee member has decided to
step down as he has other priorities in life
he wishes to pursue, the committee would
like to thank Neville for his contribution on
the committee, particularly for his
organisation and soup-making for our soup
kitchens, which will be sorely missed.
And remember the National Slow Food
gathering is being held in August. All
members are encouraged to attend and you
should’ve received your own personal invite.
If you haven’t, please contact Nick at
[email protected].
Until next seasonal newsletter, good
harvesting and eating,
Ian Ryall
Convivium leader
_________________________________
Meet your producer - Kim de
Poorter, chef
Fine Terrines and Pâtés, Crêperie
Born in South Korea, Kim became hooked
on European food from his first taste at the
tender age of seven. Kim spent weekends
in his grandmother’s kitchen; she
thoroughly spoiling him by cooking all his
favourite dishes, and grew up in a family
who considered cooking and eating good
food to be not a time permitting luxury, but
rather an essential, and joyful, part of
family life. It therefore came naturally for
Kim to complete a cooking apprenticeship
upon finishing school.
From this apprenticeship in Belgium, where
Kim had the opportunity to work in some of
the country’s top restaurants, he moved to
France where he learnt from the likes of
Jacques Maximin and Michel Rochedit. The
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travel bug then hit and he worked and
travelled through Europe, the USA and
Bermuda before landing in the most unlikely
of places, The French Kitchen in Canberra.
There, he fell head over heels in love with
the owner’s daughter, and decided to finally
settle down.
Although Kim loved living in Australia, and
enjoyed all the fresh produce and fine
quality food available, his one regret was
the lack of good ‘charcuterie’. As a recent
Slow Food member, Kim knew that there
were plenty of Canberrans who enjoyed the
finest things in life, and cared about where
their food came from. So, with a toddler at
home, and a baby on the way, Kim decided
to throw caution to the wind. In 2007 he
quit the restaurant industry, and created his
own business, Fine Terrines and Pâtés.
pleasure and anticipation when the warm
chocolate sauce is drizzled over, nearly
make the 4am starts worthwhile.
Crêpe with avocado, smoked salmon, sour cream
Braised lamb shank with kipflers and carrots
L: Kim at work in his new studio kitchen, R: Duck liver pâté
with porcini and port
From those first humbling months, despite
working nights in borrowed commercial
kitchens, and the cold early morning starts
at the Farmers Markets, Kim knew he had
made the right choice. Over the years Kim
has seen a lot of growth in Canberra’s
Markets. His customers come from all walks
of life, and he loves seeing the joy come on
in people’s eyes when they try his duck liver
pâté, or when children try the rabbit rillettes
and announce that that’s what they want in
their lunchbox.
In 2012 Kim expanded his business to
include his Crêperie. For many market
goers, a hot crêpe with banana and Nutella,
cream of mushroom, or classic lemon and
sugar is as essential on their shopping list
as fresh eggs and kale. Children delight in
watching Kim flip the crêpes (not
pancakes!) and seeing their eyes widen with
So, if you’re not already an addict, come
and meet Kim at the Capital Region
Farmer’s Market on a Saturday morning
(each week), or the Southside Farmers
Market on a Sunday (1st and 3rd weekends).
After your vegetable shop, buy a coffee and
sit down to a hot crêpe. Then buy a fresh
baguette and some terrine or rillettes to
take home and enjoy a long leisurely lunch
with a glass or two of wine, followed by a
nap (à la française!). You don’t worry about
cooking for dinner; you’ve picked up one of
Kim’s traditional meals to warm up and
serve.
A bientôt!
Mary De Poorter
(Kim’s patient and hardworking but very
well fed wife)
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Slow Food National Conference
Ulladulla, NSW - 21-23 August 2015
Slow Food Shoalhaven has taken on the task of organising the 2015 Slow Food Australia
National Conference – and they are doing a mighty job !
With a Conference theme of Changing the Food System! Good, Clean & Fair Food for all
Australians, the 2015 National Conference will focus on issues facing the food system in
Australia and how Slow Food can provide solutions.
The Conference proper runs from Friday 21 August to around noon on Sunday 23 August,
allowing interstate visitors time to travel home on the Sunday, including getting to Sydney or
Canberra for return flights. Prior to the Conference proper getting underway, there are optional
tours of Shoalhaven producers. Places are limited on the tours, so please book early ! A ‘meet
and greet cocktail hour’ (with dinner available) is available later that afternoon and evening.
After a welcome to country on the Friday morning, Paolo Di Croce (SF International) will speak
on why the global food system is broken and suggest some solutions from the Slow Food
network. This will be followed by presentations from the Australian Convivia, before two
afternoon sessions that will explore the global Terra Madre network and sustainable fishing. A
Slow Fish Dinner will follow, with guest speakers including Rick Stein and Matthew Evans.
Saturday 22 August will feature sessions on the Ark of Taste and ‘slow cheese’ (including some
discussion on raw milk), with the afternoon devoted to discussions and working groups on
communications and campaigning activities. A ‘nose to tail’ long table dinner will follow.
On the Sunday morning, there will be some discussion around Slow Food finances in Australia,
plus reporting back from the Saturday afternoon working groups and general discussion. The
Conference will ‘wrap up’ by 12:30pm.
The main Conference venue will be the Ulladulla Civic Centre, Princes Highway, Ulladulla, NSW,
opposite the boat harbour. Ulladulla is 3 hours south of Sydney airport or around 2 ½ hours
from Canberra (via Batemans Bay). Unfortunately, in both cases, there is limited public
transport.
On the up-side, the Shoalhaven is a destination worth experiencing! Allow a few days before or
after the Conference to enjoy the scenic and gastronomic offerings of the region. The most
convenient accommodation for the Conference can be found in the towns of Ulladulla,
Mollymook, Burrill Lake and Milton.
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Canberra Organic Growers Society (COGS) garden visit
Slow Food Canberra lunch at O’Connor community garden
Article first published in Canberra Organic, winter 2015. Reproduced with the permission of
COGS'. Story and photos by Sue Pavasaris (editor, Canberra Organic)
A lovely late summer afternoon and a
sloooow lunch were the perfect ingredients
for Slow Food Canberra’s visit to the
O’Connor garden on Sunday 15 February.
Approximately 22 people attended the
lunch, with some belonging to both COGS
and Slow Food Canberra.
Ian Ryall and former COGS president Walter Steensby
raise their glasses to good food and great company
Where better to have lunch than in the garden?
The event started with a talk and tour of the
garden by COGS member and Slow Food
member, Alan Robertson, who has a plot in
the O’Connor garden. Alan talked about the
history and ethos of the garden and ensured
the group worked up an appetite as they
inspected the prolific summer produce.
Slow Food Canberra’s Ian Ryall with Alan Robertson
O’Connor convenor Jenny Clark together
with Barbara Payne, Trish McEwan, Glen
Shelley and Alan Robertson organised a
lovely table setting, complete with
tablecloths, crockery and glasses, as well as
contributing a large frittata. Other
gardeners contributed salads, pickles and
platters.
Barbara Payne and Ian Ryall inspect the table
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Winter warmer recipe
by long-standing Slow Food Canberra member, Neville
Bleakley.
Chorizos, Potatoes and Apple Cider
Ingredients (serves 2)
4 waxy potatoes
4 fresh chorizos
2 or 3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp fresh oregano, chopped (can use dried if needs be)
2 tbsp apple cider
1 tbsp cider vinegar (or white vinegar)
Above and below: Some of the delicious food at the
lunch
Method
Peel the potatoes and boil in salted water until “al dente”.
Test with a fork, which should not be able to penetrate
fully into a potato. Drain, cool, and cut into cubes.
Cut the chorizos into cubes – say lengthways first, then
slice the two halves into 2 cm bits.
Fry the potatoes in oil for a couple of minutes on medium
heat, tossing regularly, then add the chorizos. Continue
tossing/stirring for about 10-15 minutes, until the bits are
browned and slightly crunchy on the outside.
Add apple cider, and stir for a couple of minutes. Just
before serving, add vinegar and stir through.
Slow Food Canberra is part of an
international group founded to counteract
the ‘fast food and fast life’ concept. There is
an obvious alignment between the COGS
philosophy and the Slow Food principles of:
good—a fresh and flavoursome seasonal
diet that satisfies the senses and is part of
the local culture ;
clean—food production and consumption
that does not harm the environment, animal
welfare or human health; and
fair—accessible prices for consumers and
fair conditions and pay for producers.
__________________________________
Some tips from the chef (Neville):
Use fresh chorizos, not the dry, salted ones that are cured.
Try to buy firm ones because you are going to cut them
into pieces while they are uncooked. Likewise, choose
waxy potatoes because they, too, will be cut into cubes
after boiling. Desiree – available at any store - would be
suitable. Kipfler “finger” potatoes would work too, but
leave the skin on– which would give the dish more of a
rustic, Spanish look.
A green-leaf salad, splashed with Homeleigh Grove
Lowanna’s Paddock olive oil and vino cotto (or any
sweet/sour vinegar) is a perfect accompaniment.
There will be plenty of apple cider left over to enjoy with
the meal ! Why not use a bottle of one of Sully’s apple
ciders, made at the Old Cheese Factory, Reidsdale (near
Braidwood) – lovely stuff !
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Visit to Tweenhills Chestnut Farm
Slow Food Canberra celebrated the chestnut season with a visit to Tweenhills chestnut farm on
3 May 2015.
Established in 1997, Tweenhills is a family operated commercial chestnut orchard at
Hoskinstown, NSW run by Slow Food members John and Heather Kane. The farm is operated
with modern horticultural practises and with limited use of chemicals. Our hosts gave us a walk
and talk session on varieties of the nut, its agricultural requirement as well as sharing with us
an appreciation of chestnut culture and harvesting.
The main variety grown at Tweenhills is an Italian style chestnut, De Coppi Marone. It roasts
well and is easy to peel. We had the pleasure of trying these chestnuts freshly roasted at
lunch.
After the ‘walk and talk’, we shared food in the form of a long table lunch with John's roast
chestnuts, a hot chestnut pumpkin soup by Heather and a great selection of other dishes from
attendees. Everyone went away satisfied with the sumptuous meal and bought chestnuts to
roast at home.
Eliza Ngan
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The following information about chestnuts is collated from Tweenhills' chestnut pamphlets and The Chestnut
Growers' Information Book.
Chestnuts are classed as temperate nuts and are most suited to deep well-drained soils. They need cold
winter temperatures and warm to hot summers. They have a sweet and nutty flavour, contain low GI
carbohydrate, are high in dietary fibre and are the only nut that contains vitamin C.
Their distinctive flavour and texture can give a unique taste to a range of dishes from starters to sweets.
Chestnut soup is a winter classic and other equally delicious options are stir fries, casseroles, pastas, cakes,
or used as stuffing in meat and poultry dishes.
Traditionally, chestnuts are roasted over an open fire or in the oven (slit first and roasted on medium heat
for 25-30 minutes, turning over after 15 minutes). They may also be cooked in the microwave, sandwich
maker, hot plate or frying pan.
Preparing & Cooking Chestnuts
Prior to cooking, cut a slit across the face of the nut or a cross into the flat-end. This is to prevent the nut
from exploding while cooking,
To bake
Preheat oven to 200 degrees C. Place chestnuts onto a baking tray and bake for 15-20 minutes or until shell
splits.
To microwave
Place chestnuts in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate. Cook, uncovered, at 850 watts/High/100% for
4-6 minutes or until flesh is tender.
To roast, grill or barbeque
Cook, turning occasionally, in a pan over medium heat for 20-30 minutes or until shell splits.
To boil (if using to puree)
Place chestnuts into a pan of cold water, bring to the boil, cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes or until flesh
is tender. Wrap the cooked chestnuts in a tea-towel as they are difficult to peel once cooled. Remove outer
shell and inner skin while still warm.
Storage & Handling
1. Chestnuts should be stored as near as possible to 0°C.
2. Due to their high moisture content (50%) chestnuts can dry out even in a cool room. For this reason, to
store chestnuts for more than 1 or 2 days in a cool room, they should be placed in plastic bags with the top
folded over.
3. Although chestnuts can deteriorate rapidly under less than ideal conditions, under proper storage
conditions (as above) they can remain in good condition for several weeks.
4. Chestnuts can be frozen. Leave the shells intact and pack them into a sturdy plastic bag or container.
Frozen nuts once thawed are not suitable for roasting but are perfect in soups, purees and seasonings. You
can also roast chestnuts, peel and then freeze for use in stuffing's, soups and cakes.
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Book review
The Bread and Butter Project
Created by the Bourke Street Bakery, Surry Hills, Sydney – www.thebreadandbutterproject.com
This book tells the story of the bread and butter project and is also a book of bread recipes. I
bought the book a couple of years ago and read the story but did not try any of the recipes until
we went on a sour dough baking course last year.
The Bread and Butter Project is a social enterprise in Sydney that provides training and
employment opportunities in baking; skills that can build a career. The book tells the story of
how a couple of artisan bakers found they could help others by teaching them baking skills. It
also tells the stories of some of the refugees who have been helped by the project.
The book contains everything you need to know
to bake a good loaf of bread at home. There is a
description of the tools you will need, the main
ingredients and their role in the bread baking,
how to make a sourdough starter from scratch,
and important bread making techniques including
mixing, proving, shaping, scoring and baking are
described in sufficient detail. I especially liked
the way that the instructions for shaping included
pictures that make it easier to understand what I
think is the most important technique in bread
making: effective shaping tensions the dough
while retaining the gas bubbles so the dough will
rise and produce a nice texture.
There are enough bread recipes in the book to
keep one occupied for a very long time. Each
recipe explains, step by step, how to make the
bread by hand and also includes instructions for
using a benchtop mixer to save a little time. So
far we have tried 6 of the 17 sourdough bread
recipes, the last of which was the Red Wine,
Juniper Berry and Rye Sourdough which turned
out to be a very nice rye loaf where, every once
in a while, you get a shot of Gin flavour. There
are also 9 recipes for semi-sourdoughs that
supplement sourdough starter with some yeast to
give extra rise, and recipes for 17 yeasted
breads.
4C does passata !
On 29 March, 4C had another successful
passata bottling day. The pictures below
show how the day unfolded ! Special
thanks to Slow Food members John and
Lorraine for again opening up their home.
Extra special thanks to Mick Audinno for a
very generous deal on the tomatoes. EPIC
regulars will know Mick from his orange stall
at the northern entrance to the Markets.
While Mick is a known champion at citrus, it
turns out that he clearly knows a thing or
two about tomatoes too !
This is an attractively presented book that could
live in the kitchen or on the coffee table. I really
like this book because it is easy to follow and
produces good results. I also liked the story
behind the book and how The Bread and Butter
Project gives refugees a skill that they can use to
transform their lives.
Mark Fraser
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More passata !!
The Slow Food Area at Expo
2015: Putting Biodiversity and
the People who Feed the
Planet in the Spotlight
Amorelle Dempster, Australian Councillor, Slow
Food International
Slow Food will have a major role at Expo 2015
Milano, which started on 1 May and runs
through to 31 October.
In the heart of the Slow Food Pavilion at Expo
2015, there will be the Slow Food Theater - an
open space for meeting and exchange, which
will give a voice to those women and men who
today feed the planet with good, clean and fair
food.
The daily schedule of events that will take place
in the Theater include talks, debates,
conferences, presentations and film and
documentary screenings, part of a calendar full
of activities aimed to tell the stories and
experiences of the Slow Food network and Terra
Madre food communities, but also of civil
society representatives and people who share
the Slow Food philosophy.
On May 1, 2015, Gaetano Pascale, president of
Slow Food Italy, opened the Slow Food area,
explaining the reasons for our presence at the
universal exposition. Later, Yvan Sagnet, trade
unionist of the Federation of Agro-Industrial
Workers,originally from Cameroon, spoke on
the phenomenon of the denial of rights and the
use of threats and intimidation in agriculture
(the so-called ‘caporalato’), followed by Fabio
Terribile, President of the Italian Society of
Pedology who spoke about the importance of
fertile soil and the right to land.
On May 19, the Slow Food Pavilion was officially
inaugurated in the presence of Slow Food
International president Carlo Petrini and Swiss
architect Jacques Herzog.
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In the following weeks Expo will be a platform for Slow
Food, a space for discussion and critical reflection in an
attempt to find concrete solutions for the future.
Two passata questions:
Was it yummy?
At Terra Madre Youth, October 3 – 6, will bring young
farmers, fishers, Indigenous Peoples and students from all
over the world to Milan. The Slow Food Theater will
regularly host young men and women working in food
production, who will talk about their experience, hopes and
expectations for the future.
Inside the Slow Food area there will be also a space
dedicated to the discovery of the diversity of wine and rawmilk cheeses. The world of cheeses offers the perfect
example of how plant and animal biodiversity is articulated
when transformed into food. From just three simple
ingredients—milk, rennet and salt—an extraordinary
diversity has resulted, with over 2,000 traditional cheeses
made around the world.
Next to the Slow Cheese area, the Slow Wine Enoteca will
be telling another fascinating story of biodiversity. In Italy
alone, over 600 grape varieties are still used to make wine,
from Nebbiolo to Sangiovese, Perricone and Fiano The
selection of wines, curated by the Wine Bank in Pollenzo
(Piedmont), will offer drinkable proof of this wide diversity,
with about 200 different wines available on rotation.
Did we have fun ?
Several short movies and documentaries, coming from all
over the world and dedicated to Slow Food themes and
issues, will be screened every day to shed light on small
communities of food artisans who work in order to create
an alternative to the globalized food system. In particular,
Ermanno Olmi’s film, The Planet that Hosts Us, will be
projected in the Theater every evening at 8 pm, for the
entire duration of Expo. Slow Food wants to put the work
of this great director at the end of each day to symbolically
close the activities with a deep reflection.
The structures of the Slow Food area, built from PEFCcertified larch wood from sustainably managed forests and
designed by the Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, will host the exhibition Discover
Biodiversity, the tastings areas of Slow Cheese and Slow Wine, the association space and the
Slow Food Editore bookshop. At the center of the area there is also the Slow Food Garden, with
47 species of medicinal plants, vegetables, legumes and other species, each one with a specific
role in maintaining the balance of our ecosystem.
Slow Food involves over a million of people dedicated to and passionate about good, clean and
fair food. This includes chefs, youth, activists, farmers, fishers, experts and academics in over
150 countries; a network of around 100,000 Slow Food members linked to 1,500 local chapters
worldwide (known as convivia), contributing through their membership fee, as well as the
events and campaigns they organize; and over 2,500 Terra Madre food communities who
practice small-scale and sustainable production of quality food around the world.
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Local food issues – towards
an ACT Food Policy and
Food Plan
Those of you who follow our Facebook page
will have noted a recent ‘call out’ for
thoughts on an ACT Food Policy and Food
Plan.
This important initiative was kicked off in
May last year when the Conservation
Council ACT Region worked with TAMS and
Agriculture Minister Shane Rattenbury to
hold a ‘roundtable’ discussion on ‘food
security’ within the ACT region. Currently,
Canberra brings around 90 per cent of its
food in from outside, often involving long
supply chains reliant on fossil-fuel intensive
transportation methods. At any given time,
we probably have only a couple of days food
available, leaving us highly vulnerable to
interruptions in the supply chain.
Slow Food Canberra urges you to find out
more about this subject. Arising from last
year’s roundtable, the Conservation Council
has developed a discussion paper that might
lead us towards the development of an ACT
Food Policy and Food Plan. You can get a
copy of the paper directly from the
Conservation Council, or by contacting Slow
Food Canberra at
[email protected]
paper in time for the deadline for comments
on 30 June 2015. If any Slow Food
members would like their thoughts included
in our joint response, please send these to
[email protected]. There
is also the option to respond directly to the
Conservation Council via
[email protected].
A Canberra abattoir ??
One important issue that has come up in the
context of building a stronger, more resilient
local food economy in the ACT and
surrounding areas of NSW is the lack of
reliable access to a meat processing facility.
Smaller producers especially find that
having large animal abattoirs in Cowra and
Cootamundra, and the poultry abattoir on
the South Coast, results in significant
additional transport and time costs. In
addition, these abattoirs are not always
receptive to the needs of small producers
and, depending on seasonal variations, may
be difficult to access.
Slow Food Canberra would be interested to
hear views on the options for developing a
meat processing facility in the Canberra
area that might better suit the requirements
of local growers/producers. Please contact
us at [email protected] if
you have an interest in this issue, or would
like to share your thoughts.
Slow Food Canberra has agreed to put
together some thoughts on the discussion
A big Slow Food thank-you to Neville Bleakley
In recent days, long-standing and much respected Slow Food member Neville Bleakley told us that
he wishes to stand down from the 4C committee.
While we are very sad to see Neville leave the committee, we respect his decision and wish him the
very best for the future. With his very varied life experiences and interests, Neville brought a rich
stock of experiences to our discussions.
Neville is a keen gardener and cook (see his winter warmer recipe above) and a strong advocate for
local food. He has made a huge contribution to Slow Food Canberra, especially through his work
with our Slow Soup Kitchens. His enthusiasm and input – and stories – will be missed.
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