JacksonHole - Focus Productions

Transcription

Jackson Hole
skier
2009
WINTER VISITOR’S GUIDE
FREE
. . . Inviting you to our
35th Anniversary
Shearling Sale
20 W. Broadway
Downtown Jackson
Across from the Wort Hotel
www.jolly jumbuck leathers.com
Est. 1973
307.733.6562
Experience the Old West
in a New Way.
Mesquite grilled Steaks, Game, and other New West selections,
all served in our authentic lodge. Enjoy our extensive collection of
scotch, bourbon and draft beer & extensive wine selection.
STEAK & GAME HOUSE
2
J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9
862 W. BROADWAY • 733-3287
CUSTOM JEWELRY
BY JETER CASE
In the log cabin next
to Teton Theatre
just off the town square
132 N. Cache
Jackson Hole, Wyoming
307-733-5933
www.jcjewelers.com
800-358-5715
w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m
2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R
3
SKI • BIKE • BOARD • HIKE
“The Locals’ Shop”
520 W. BROADWAY
OPEN DAILY
SKIS, BOOTS,
& BINDINGS:
On Broadway
across from
Bubba’s
SNOWBOARDS:
Burton • Arbor • Prior
Nitro • Salomon • Vans
CLOTHING:
Obermeyer • Orage • Bonfire
Sherpa • Burton • Oakley
DEMOS A RENTALS A REPAIR A SKIS
4
A
www.hobacksports.com
SNOWBOARDS
A
OUTWEAR
Photo: Wade McKoy / Focus Productions Skier: Jeff Leger
733-5335
Volkl • Rossignol
Dalbello • Tecnica
Marker • Salomon • Full Tilt
32 years of inspiration at 6,000 feet
Jewelry Originals
Downtown Jackson
125 N.Cache, Gaslight Alley
307.733.2259
www.DanShelley.com
[email protected]
A L L D ES IGNS COPYRIGHTED
jackson hole2008/2009
skier
the resorts
24 Jackson Hole
34 The Tram Builders
38 Vertical-Foot Ski Records
40 Open-Boundary Protocol
41 Terrain Park & Superpipe
42 Snow King
46 Grand Targhee
52 White Pine
the backcountry
12 Teton Skiing
54 Mountain Guides
64 Teton Pass Ambassador
66 Avalanche Education
Skiers:
Cover—Jason Tattersall
Contents—Lynsey Dyer
Cover and contents photos: Wade McKoy
staff
Publishers: Bob Woodall and Wade McKoy
d.b.a. Focus Productions, Inc.(FPI)
Editors: Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Mike Calabrese
Copy Editor: Mike Calabrese
Photo Editors: Eric Rohr, Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall
Art Director: Janet Melvin
Advertising Sales: Kyli Fox, FPI
Distribution Manager: Jeff Leger
Editorial Assistant: Eric Rohr
contributing photographers
Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall, Henry H. Holdsworth, Jimmy Chin,
Jonathan Selkowitz, Tristan Grezsko, Reed Finlay, Matt Haines
The JACKSON HOLE SKIER annual winter visitor’s guide is free when picked up at
one of 160 distribution points throughout Jackson Hole. Receive one in the mail by
sending $5 to Focus Productions Inc, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001.
Copyright—2008/2009 by Focus Productions, Inc. (FPI). All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the publisher.
68 Helicopter & Snowcat Skiing
other stuff
8 Wildlife and National Parks
17 Activities Beyond the Slopes
18 XC Ski Centers
20 Made in Jackson Hole
72 Snowmobiling
76 Mushers & Sled Dogs
79 Business Directory
82 Lodging Directory
84 Resort Maps
86 Town of Jackson Map
See JH SKIER online @ focusproductions.com
and jhskier.net
Watching Winter
N
Story by Ben Kinkade
o other region in the country can touch the breadth of natural
wonders, wildlife, and scenery embraced by the Greater Yellowstone
Ecosystem (GYE).
The GYE, 18 million acres of the largest intact temperate-zone
ecosystems on earth, comprises the National Elk Refuge, Grand
Teton and Yellowstone national parks, and six national forests. The
GYE is home to a breathtaking diversity of flora and fauna, including the country’s largest free-roaming herds of bison and elk, and a
recovering population of large predators, including grizzly bear, gray
wolves, and mountain lions.
With so much to see, where does one start?
A good place is near the picturesque mountain town of Jackson, Wyoming. The town lies on the south end of Jackson Hole, a
50-mile-long valley dividing Grand Teton National Park, and is bordered by the National Elk Refuge, the Caribou-Targhee and BridgerTeton national forests.
The jump-off spot for wildlife viewing is the National Elk
Refuge. The nearly 25,000-acre refuge was established in 1912 to set
aside shrinking critical winter habitat for elk and other species.
Rocky Mountain elk make their way to the refuge starting in October and will often stay until early April. During the most severe
months, refuge personnel, working from horse-drawn sleighs, provide feed for an average of 7,500 wintering elk. Visitors can see the
process up close and personal by hopping on one of the sleighs,
which leave several times daily across from the National Museum of
Wildlife Art.
Alternatively, drive or travel with an area guide service onto the
east side of the refuge to view red fox, golden eagles, bighorn sheep
and, possibly, gray wolves or a mountain lion. The refuge is also
winter home to an impressive herd of bison, and its buttes keep deer
within easy range of predators all winter long.
More adventurous winter enthusiasts might consider guided
dog sled runs or snowmobile trips. Outfitters depart from Jackson
or Teton Village and journey onto area national forests, where bountiful pristine wilderness vistas await.
Next stop north, Grand Teton National Park (GTNP). Created
Bison crossing the steaming landscape of Roaring Mountain,
Yellowstone National Park. Below: Pelican, beaver, owl.
8
Photos by Henry H. Holdsworth,
Wild by Nature Gallery
In Grand Teton and
Yellowstone National Parks
From top: Elk herd on the National Elk Refuge; bison herd on the run in Yellowstone National Park; sleepy coyote in Grand Teton; travertine terraces
and dead lodgepole pine trees, Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone; black fox, magpies, and moose in Wilson.
in 1950, it has been voted the best park in our country for wildlife
viewing and tabbed the "Alps of North America." One could easily
spend an entire vacation here.
Even in winter countless opportunities and destinations attract
all types and levels of skiers, climbers, hikers, and snowshoers. See
a park ranger at the stunning new Moose Visitor Center for more
details and to schedule an informative, ranger-led snowshoe hike
in the park.
Winter is the best time to see moose in and around Grand Teton
Teton National Park. Because of the cold temperatures and extensive
mountain snow cover, these ungainly but appealing ungulates move
to the sagebrush flats to feed on bitterbrush and rabbit brush. Red
fox, long-tailed weasels (ermines), the occasional bison, and coyote
can also be seen here. Scan high perches for rough-legged hawks
and eagles.
If your time in the southern GYE hasn't knocked your (two layers) of socks off, you're in for a treat should you decide to journey
north to the world's first national park, Yellowstone.
Every inch of Yellowstone's more than two million acres is phenomenal. And though it's one of the coldest spots in the Lower 48,
Yellowstone truly blossoms in winter.
Board a snow coach or snowmobile at Flagg Ranch (north of
GTNP), the only way in from the south. Travelers can also enter
through West Yellowstone and Mammoth, Montana, however. Drivers and guides provide a thorough overview along the trip.
The main destination for many visitors, regardless of the season, is Old Faithful, in the Upper Geyser Basin. Yellowstone boasts
approximately half of the world's hydrothermal features and these
warm areas are the destination for many wintering bison, elk, and
moose. The heated thermal springs keep snow cover at bay and ed-
9
Grand Teton National Park has been
voted the best park in our country for
wildlife viewing and tabbed the "Alps
of North America." One could easily
spend an entire vacation here.
10
From top: Mount Moran at sunrise; wolf, moose, bighorn sheep in Yellowstone; bison in Jackson Hole.
park and Montana Department of
Livestock personnel have gone to
expensive measures to drive bison
back into the park. The fear is that
bison could spread disease to
nearby domestic cattle. Bison re-exiting the park are often shipped to
slaughter. Although disease is a
valid concern, it's interesting to note
that several private property owners
have taken legal action against the
government agencies in defense of
bison and property rights.
This bison problem has been
made more newsworthy by the
large decrease in Yellowstone's
bison population this year. Last au-
tumn saw over 4,000 bison, while
post-winter numbers dropped to
just over 2,500. Slaughter and a
hard winter are culprits.
Finally, visitors and wildlife enthusiasts can drive or join our
guides to journey to the legendary
Lamar Valley in Northern Range
Yellowstone.
Dubbed
"the
Serengeti of North America," this
is the best place to see the gray
wolf. Re-introduced in 1995 and
slowly making a comeback, this almost mythic species remains intriguing and controversial.
Our only prerequisites are that
you have fun and travel safely.
Being prepared with survival tools
like blankets, food, water, chains,
etc., is key. Give animals and other
vehicles plenty of space. Winter is
hard on everybody and staying at
least 50 yards away from most wintering animals is a good rule of
thumb when viewing and enjoying
the amazing array of winter
wildlife. Henry Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery
ible plants exposed, making travel
and dining a bit easier for animals.
Hydrothermal basins can be
risky, however. Weak spots in the
crust occur and wildlife sometimes
crash through, scalding themselves
with superheated water and steam.
The same goes for humans. Pay attention to the warnings posted
around the geysers and thermal
areas.
Appealing as the accommodating thermal areas are to large animals in winter, there might be a
downside. Scientists have recently
discovered that a concentrated
amount of fluoride present in hydrothermal basins shortens by five
years or more the lifespan of elk
wintering here. The waters’ concentrated fluoride wears elk's teeth
down at a much faster rate than
those animals not wintering here.
If gregarious mega fauna isn’t
your main thing, snowshoe around
the geyser basins and check out the
multi-colored bacterial mats that
appear to be crawling along the
edges of thermal features. Thermophiles, heat-loving microorganisms like bacteria, live in these
sub-boiling zones with a variety of
algaes and archaea.
A newly discovered enzyme
called Xtreme Xylanase, also found
in Yellowstone’s waters, can tolerate
extreme temperatures and very
acidic environments. This enzyme
may help us produce an alternative
fuel and other chemicals using biomass. The findings are fascinating
and the idea of one day replacing
polluting and foreign fuel by a discovery made in the park is thrilling.
Onto Mammoth, the lowest elevation spot in Yellowstone, where
wintering pronghorn antelope and
bison often wander just outside the
park. A concern for many years,
Ben Kinkade is a wildlife biologist
guide with Wildlife Expeditions, a
freelance photojournalist, and a
ghostwriter. In his spare time, he
works on photography shows,
songwriting, and volunteering.
Wildlife
t t t t t t t t t t
Expeditions
WILDLIFE DISCOVERY EXPEDITION
A fascinating full-day among the animals
with an expert wildlife biologist.
Wildlife Expeditions
PO Box 7580 • Jackson, WY 83002
TOLL-FREE: 1.888.945.3567
BOOK ONLINE!
www.wildlifeexpeditions.org
307.733.2623
YEAR-ROUND EXPEDITIONS
SUNRISE AND SUNSET EXPEDITIONS
A family-friendly four-hour introduction to
western wildlife and their spectacular habitat.
WILDLIFE ART AND SLEIGH EXPEDITION
An exciting day that features wildlife viewing,
exploring the best wildlife art in the country and
a sleigh ride on the National Elk Refuge.
MULTI-DAY EXPEDITIONS
Call for information.
CUSTOMIZED AND PRIVATE TRIPS ALSO!
11
Stories from the Wild
Teton Skiing
“Many mountain
buffs enter the
Tetons during
winter and spring.
With skis as their
mode of transport,
these wayward
adventurers set
objectives as
spectacular as
the mountains
themselves. And
though skiers have
wandered among
these walls and
spires since the
1930s, each trip
feels like a
pioneering effort.”
— Tom Turiano, from
his book Teton Skiing,
A History & Guide to
the Teton Range
North-facing couloirs hold
good snow for skier Dave
Coon. Among the massive
jumble of granite on the skyline: the South Teton, Middle
Teton, Grand Teton, Nez
Perce, and other peaks.
12
Pepi Stiegler
Backcountry touring is the kind of sport that doesn’t
need any promotion, it seems to me, like mountain climbing
doesn’t need any promotion. It promotes itself by the people
that are doing it. Promotion, advertisement, commercialization spoils the whole thing. The citizens who appreciate
this kind of quiet and remote activity, they don’t want it promoted. They just go up and enjoy it.
The conditions last year were exceptionally good. However, sometimes, like in late winter, you could get yourself
into breakable crust, which I did. The funny thing is, when
you tour up the mountain, breakable crust is just fine. It
makes you actually go faster. Then, when you turn around—
my god! It took me coming down as long as it took me going
up. Just about every turn, my butt went into the snow. Ha!
That’s something backcountry skiers will do, though.
They don’t just go up for the quality of skiing. They go up for
the quality of the experience. Seeing the mountains, blue sky
or not, it’s a great experience. As long as you don’t get hurt.
I never had a close call with an avalanche. I never put
myself into an iffy situation. I may ski onto a slope that’s not
good, by misjudging. But when the conditions are iffy, if they
ever were iffy last year, then I wouldn’t ski. If the snow
amount is so enormous, I wait a day or two. Because if you
go too quick, the danger is high. I don’t play the risky game
at all. That’s not the point of my touring. If you wait another
day, so what? It doesn’t matter.
Dave Coon
A lot of my ski tours are a mix of nature and skiing. With
so much of the day spent in tour mode, we see stuff not normally noticed from the car. Like hundreds of giant, glistening hoar frosts at our feet, untouched by the sun. Or the hue
of the moon setting over the Tetons while the sun’s first light
illuminates the highest peaks. Most days feature endless soli-
Wade McKoy photos
Joe Egolf follows his friends into the wild.
Coner Horigan hikes a windswept ridge in the
southern Tetons.
Left: Dave Coon and Gail Jensen admire the view
of Buck and Wister mountains.
13
Nate Siegler in powder snow, southern Tetons.
Kit DesLauriers in
the Ford Couloir,
Grand Teton.
tude, untracked snow, and countless wildlife observations. You see such
cool stuff.
One morning last May we got an alpine start for a day trip into the
Tetons. The skinning was easy, the snow hard enough to support us but not
too hard for our skins to bite. We picked up a set of wolverine tracks at
about 9,500 feet. It had walked up the ridge and we followed its tracks for
about a mile. It was ducking in and out of rock crevasses on either side of
the ridge with no apparent regard for the exposure. It’s amazing that
wolverines can cover that much ground on steep terrain, and go all day, all
night long.
At one point on top of the ridge, the tracks took a steep line down into
Avalanche Canyon via a line we deemed to gnarly to ski. We picked up the
tracks again after skiing a more reasonable line down through excellent
powder and stopping near the forks of Avalanche Canyon.
While we didn’t have an actual sighting, it was a special experience to
witness the romp of a wolverine in search of food. It made us look a little
wimpy after realizing how much terrain they can cover without skis.
That day was special.
Dustin Varga
Photographers, clockwise from top left: Reed Finlay; Wade McKoy; Bob Woodall; Henry Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery; Jimmy Chin
Steve Romeo in
the
Southeast
Couloir,
Buck
Mountain.
Me and my buddy Rocky decided we would snowboard the Northeast
Ramp of Mount St. Johns, an amazing line in the Tetons I’ve been looking
at for almost 20 years. Unfortunately, the night before we went up there
we got six inches of snow—this was early April—but we decided we’d go
ahead and go for it.
We left the car at 4:30 a.m., but by the time we got to the plateau below
the east face we were already in waist-deep powder and we were like, “Uhoh,” and I said, “Rocky, we’re a little out of control.” It took us four-and-a-
Sunrise can create ethereal light on the Tetons, like this alpenglow on
Cloudveil Dome, the Middle and Grand Tetons, Mt. Owen, and Teewinot.
that rule is kind of
out the window
these days.
It was quite
strange and random. I remember
one kid saying,
“Holy Smoke! I had
no idea where I
was!” And Rocky
and I are like,
“Dude!”
“Most days feature endless
solitude, untracked snow,
and countless wildlife
observations.
You see such
cool stuff.”
—Dave Coon
Steve Romeo
Jeff Leger on a steep southern Teton pitch.
half hours to get to the bottom of the ramp—that’s
a long time—but conditions looked pretty good.
We were getting our crampons on and getting
ready to start, looking up there…and that entire
thing rips. The entire thing! And I said, “This
thing’s gonna come and kill us right now!” And
the next thing you know, I see some dude ripping
turns all the way down that sucker—man—
releasing the biggest avalanches that came pouring over that thing. The whole time he’s skiing it,
we’re like, “Holy crap!”
About an hour later, after four more people
came down and kicked every bit of snow that was
up there down onto our heads, it made me stop
and think about the way we used to ski things in
the mountains: you climb what you ski. I think
This was our
third attempt on
the Southeast Couloir of Buck Mountain. Reed
Finlay and I decided not to climb the route this
time, but to go up the standard East Face route
instead, mainly to reduce our exposure in the
couloir. With moderate-to-considerable avalanche danger that day, we didn’t want to be in the
direct line of snow and rock above the couloir
when the sun came out.
Everything went smoothly on the climb. We
began our descent and peered down the couloir,
looked at each other, and said, “Well, are we
gonna do it?”
It’s always a mystery, not climbing what you
ski, especially if it’s a rappel situation. You’ve got
to find clues: What are you getting into? What is
the availability of anchors? What are the snow
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15
conditions? It’s a little nerve-wracking standing
up there wondering what to do.
But Reed said he was up for it. He made a few
turns and went down into the couloir. We slowly
leap-frogged our way down. We had a little bit of
excitement when a six-to-ten inch slab ripped out
on one of my turns. It could have done some damage. Reed ducked behind a safe zone—which
luckily was truly safe—and got out of the way.
Luckily for me, it didn’t rip higher up in the
couloir. If it had, there is a good chance it would’ve
taken me down with it.
The couloir rolls over steeply at the lower cliff
band. It was a little intimidating, so we played it
safe and skied one-at-a-time down to the edge. As
Wine Shoppe
over 1600
Different Wines
the East Face They looked puzzled about where
“It’s cool to look up at your
our tracks went, wondering what in the world was
going on there.
tracks when you’re done, a
real satisfying feeling of acKit DesLauriers
I skied the Grand with Jimmy Chin in June on
complishment.”—Steve Romeo
we built the anchor, the weather deteriorated a bit.
That’s stressful—freezing your rear end off, building an anchor, doing all the rope work.
It’s cool to look up at your tracks when you’re
done, a real satisfying feeling of accomplishment.
Another Teton descent off the tick list. We saw
other people hiking, following our boot-pack up
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16
the six-month birthday of my newborn-daughter
Grace. Afterwards, I called it Triple Tribute in
honor of Bill Briggs, Doug Coombs, and Grace.
We paid tribute to Bill by climbing his original route, the Stettner Couloir, instead of the usual
route of the Stettner, Chevy, and Ford couloirs.
Jimmy was leading, and when he suggested we
keep going up Briggs’s route I laughed, because it
gets really steep at the top of the Stettner. On the
other climbs I’d look up and say, “Whew! I’m glad
I’m not going that way!” But I took a deep breath
and said, “Okay.” I knew I was not in over my
head. It was so filled-in that it was much easier
than usual.”
We summited and skied the normal route,
and it was unbelievably gorgeous. At the bottom
of the Ford Couloir, Jimmy wanted to rap the
Chevy with his skis on, and I’m like, “Why?” It can
be awkward. He wanted to because he had done it
with Coombs, and that was good enough for me.
It took some advanced yoga moves, the two of us
moving around each other while half hanging
from the anchors and half standing on our skis,
taking turns facing down the slope in the figure11 position. But the rappel with skis on was the
second tribute, to Doug. And it was fun, just like
he would’ve found it to be.
I called it the Triple Tribute because I was
home by 2 p.m. to breast feed my little baby, who’d
survived on puréed peaches and water since I’d
been gone. I’m not running off on huge expeditions right now, and my alpine starts have been of
a different sort, getting up numerous times at
night with her. So I paid tribute to Grace for picking me as her mom—as I walk the line of motherhood and mountain mama. Wildlife Friendly
Driving Tips
• Expect wildlife on our roads. This is Jackson
Hole and we share this valley with wildlife.
• If you encounter an animal on a road with high
snow banks, allow it to move down the road at
its own pace, until it finds a place to jump off
the road.
• Scan the sides of the roads for wildlife.
• Stay alert while driving; be prepared to stop.
• Wildlife cross roads primarily during dawn, dusk,
and at night.
• If you see one elk, deer, or moose along a roadway, you are likely to see more.
• If you see an animal on the road, expect the unexpected. It doesn’t instinctively know how to
react to your car. Give the animal time and room
to move off the road. Do not try to outrun it.
• If you see a wildlife-crossing sign, pay attention. It’s there for a reason.
Beyond the Slopes
Other activities and events to enjoy during your ski vacation
By Mike Calabrese
Bob Woodall (2); Henry Holdsworth / Wild by Nature Gallery (coyote)
Stroll the boardwalks on Jackson’s Town Square and see the elk arches, shops, and night skiing on Snow King Mountain.
whole shebang can be arranged at the center. And
Shopping?
It may not be at the top of everyone’s list, but don’t forget the camera!
it is on everyone’s list! And why not? I’m still shipWildlife Safari
ping out Hungry Jack’s logo mugs and Mangy
If you landed at our airport, or drove into our
Moose t-shirts to relatives and friends after 35 valley from any direction, more than likely you
years of living in Jackson Hole. And my wife and spotted some of our internationally famous
I are still buying outdoor gear, art, and jewelry wildlife: the obvious notables, the big ones–the
proffered right here in the valley. Sure, some of the
elk, the deer, the moose, the
national chains have cast
bison. The very fauna that
down their lot among the
make Jackson Hole the cenJackson Hole enterprises, but
ter of the universe for wildlife
local businesses have created
viewing. But the complex
and maintained their own
Yellowstone/Teton region is
niches—all to the benefit of
home to an ecosystem’s
shoppers searching for that
worth of equally impressive
special something for themsmaller residents, including
selves or the folks back home.
wolves, lynx, bald eagles, otNo mega-malls in our valley— Prancing to the tune of life: a coyote ters, mountain lions, bighorn
just real commerce, with real (above) and dancers (below).
sheep, creatures that may be
people, in real stores, in downrevealed only to a persistent few, or those smart
town Jackson or right in the heart of Teton Village. enough to sign on to
Elk Refuge
The only thing perhaps more breathtaking
around here than the Tetons is the wildlife that
inhabits the surrounding valley. To take them
both in—at the same time, no less—climb aboard
a horse-drawn sleigh and glide gracefully through
thousands of majestic elk wintering on the National Elk Refuge. Sleighs are run seven days a
week from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. by the same folks
who provide food and fun at their Bar T Five
chuckwagon shows all summer. Adults pay $18;
youngsters 6-12, $14; and tikes under 5 pay nothing. Visitors can call 733-5386 or go online at
BarT5.com to reserve a seat on the sleigh. No
need for reservations, though, unless a large private tour would better fit the bill. Or simply drop
by the Greater Yellowstone Region Visitor Center
on north Cache, right next to the elk refuge. The
a tour with Teton
Science
School’s
Wildlife
Expeditions. Start here:
www.wildlifeexpeditions.org or call 1888-945-3567.
Western
Dancing
Restless legs?
Work ‘em out with a
two-step or cowboy
waltz at the Cowboy
Bar on Thursday
evenings between
7:30-9 p.m. The
Cowboy and the
Dancers’ Workshop Country Western Dance Program sponsor free instruction to anyone showing
up before the band hits the stage.
Ice Skating
Broomball league fanatics can take a turn for
the better at the indoor rink housed in the Teton
County Fairgrounds Arena, right next to where
cowpokes test their mettle all summer. Teton
County Parks and Recreation Department also
maintains rinks for everyone: one at the base of
Snow King Ski Area in Jackson, the other at Owen
Bircher Park in Wilson. Both are local family favorites. For more info. call 733-5056.
Another indoor rink, this one at the Snow
King Center, is open to the public for one-and-ahalf-hour sessions. Call 734-3000 for a complete
rundown of hours and fees.
Hockey
You’ll hear it soon enough: “Go Moose!” the
battle cry for the
Jackson
Hole
Moose, who play
full-check hockey
in the Elite Senior
A division of the
USA Hockey Association. Grab all the
home action on 20
Friday and Saturday nights at 7:30
p.m. in Snow King’s
Ice Arena/Center.
$8 for adults and $4
for children. Call
734-5300 or go online at jacksonholemoose.com.
Continued next page
17
Paragliders fly at the
Jackson Hole Mt. Resort
Jackson Hole: from a paraglider! And the experts children over eight. Reservations are recomat Jackson Hole Paragliding take full advantage of mended. Call 739-3399 for more info.
these conditions. They’ll happily help launch
Tubing Park
novices and veterans alike over the valley in tanSave the river running for summer; hop an
dem paragliding flights that lift off from the top of
the resort’s Bridger Gondola. This breathtaking inner tube and run the King in winter. Tons of fun
experience requires no athletic ability and the ex- at Snow King, Mon.-Fri. from 2 p.m. to 8 p.m.,
perienced pilots with Jackson Hole Paragliding weekends from noon till 8 p.m. Adults pay $16 for
can even help those a bit daunted by heights. The one hour or $21 for two hrs., kids 13 and under
outfit offers flights from 10 sites in the area. Call pay $13 for one hour and $18 for two hrs.
690-tram or visit jhparagliding.com.
Cross-country skiing at JHMR’s Nordic Center
Snowshoeing
Recreation Center
Of course we have heated indoor recreation
outlets! Even the hardiest of locals come in from
the cold every now and then. Located two blocks
north of the town square on 155 East Gill, Jackson’s first-rate rec. center has a gymnasium with
full-size basketball and volleyball courts, an
aquatic center, locker rooms, and a public meeting room. The aquatic center consists of an eightlane competitive-workout pool, a therapeutic
pool, a leisure-water pool, a hot tub, a water slide,
a teaching pool, and sauna and steam rooms.
Open 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday,
from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturday, and noon to
7 p.m., Sunday. For daily fees, call 739-9025.
In case you haven’t noticed, our playground
in winter boasts a lovely white wardrobe. The region is blessed with snow and lots to do out there,
especially for those donning skinny skis, skate
skis, or snowshoes.
Paragliding
Clear days and light winds in Jackson help set
the stage for another, equally astonishing view of
Walk softly but
carry a good camera, especially in
mountain country!
Grand Teton National Park offers
ranger-led snowshoe hikes at 2 p.m.
every day, from late
December to March,
weather and conditions permitting. A
$5 donation is requested but snowshoes are provided. Park rangers touch briefly
on the lore of snowshoeing and the winter adaptation of plants and animals in the park as
trekkers cover the one-and-a-half miles along
the river bottom in about two hours. Dress
warmly, using the layer system, and wear warm
footwear. For those who would prefer to wander around indoors instead of outdoors, the visitors’ center houses exhibits on the natural
history of the park.
The snowshoe outings leave from the stunning, brand-spanking-new Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center at Moose, just north
of the Jackson Hole Airport. No experience is
necessary. Groups are limited to 20 adults and
Cross-country Skiing
Yellowstone and Grand Teton
National Parks
Two of the nation’s most famous parks are
true wonderlands under winter’s white mantle.
The solitude and spectacle of landscape will leave
indelible memories on those who venture out in it
during winter.
Grand Teton boasts 15 miles of stunning,
groomed cross-country skiing from Taggart Lake
trailhead to Signal Mt. and a skied-in track north
along Cottonwood Creek. Trails and trail maps
can be viewed and downloaded at
www.nps.gov/grte . For info, call 739-3300.
double h bar national elk refuge sleigh rides
18
Enjoy a piece of
Western
History while
riding in a horse
drawn sleigh
See Wildlife up
close, surrounded
by the scenic
landscapes of
Jackson Hole
Call Today!
307-733-0277 or
800-772-5386
Departs From
Jackson Hole Visitor
Center
532 N. Cache St.
Adaptive Snow Sports
at Jackson Hole
Bob Woodall (3); Lucas Gilman / JHMR (X-C); Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (adaptive ski)
In Yellowstone, over 100 miles of skied-in
cross-country track adorn the park. Use snowcoaches as access to more remote parts. Information: 307-344-7381; Web: www.nps.gov/yell;
roads: 307-344-2117.
EVENTS
Shriners’ All-American Cutter Races
This Western version of horse-drawn chariot
racing always draws a huge crowd during President’s Day Weekend every February. Teams run
two abreast in a 1/4-mile sprint to the finish at the
polo grounds south of Jackson. Teams are auctioned in a Calcutta wager before each heat, so
high stakes and excitement mark this event. 7333316, jacksonholechamber.com.
World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb
2009 marks the 34th year for the World
Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb, held annually on Snow King’s slopes. Starting from the
bottom of the resort’s steepest ski run, contestants throttle their way straight up the mountain,
trying to nail the speediest high-mark. Competitors come from all over the country to vie for
“King/Queen of the Hill” in a four-day worldclass event that benefits St. John’s Hospital in
Jackson Hole. Slated for March 26 through
March 29, this year. Call 734-9653 or go online
at snowdevils.org. Jackson Hole Resort Nordic Center
Seventeen km of groomed skating and classic
lanes. Alpine lift tickets are also valid for the
Nordic Center. Lessons and rentals available for
cross-country, skate skiing, telemarking, and
snowshoeing. Guided nature tours into Grand
Teton National Park are available, as well as
overnighters and lunches at the OB Rock Springs
Yurt. 739-2629
Teton County / Jackson Parks
and Recreation Dept.
It’s just about the best and busiest rec. outfit
this side of the Mississippi. In addition to its rec.
center, the department maintains seven crosscountry tracks, about 15 miles of both classic and
skate, snow conditions permitting: 10 km in
Cache Creek, 8 km in Game Creek, and shorter
sections on the Snake River Levee (starting at
Emily’s Pond), the Russ Garaman Trail, the Wilson Centennial School Trail, and the Melody
Ranch Trail. To make tracks under the lights, drop
by the trail between the valley’s middle school and
Summit High School, illuminated nightly from 510 p.m. Novices can also sign up for skate-skiing
Serving All Day!
Bakery &
Restaurant
roudly Br
e
eP
w
The Jackson Hole Mountain Sports
School offers opportunities to “Ride the Big
One” to individuals of all abilities, from
first-day beginners to advanced levels, including the disabled. The J.H. Adaptive Program serves people of all ages and any form
of disability, including, but not limited to,
amputees, and those with autism, cerebral
palsy, developmental and cognitive disabilities, hearing-impairments, spinal cord injuries, traumatic brain injuries, strokes, and
visual impairments. All lessons are one-onone, with specially trained instructors in skiing, snowboarding, XC skiing, and
snowshoeing, and include an all-day, allmountain lift ticket, and the use of any
equipment needed. Please call Ryan Burke
at 307-690-4774 for more information.
White Pine Resort Nordic Trail
Sixty km of trails (25 km of groomed, 40 km
of skied-in track) originate from Skyline Drive
(Fremont Lake Road), and some trails start right
from the White Pine parking lot. Access to over 2
million acres of public land, including the famous
Wind River Mountains. 307-367-6606 or visit the
website: www.whitepineski.com. Lessons and
equipment rental also available.
Jackson’s Great
Breakfast
& Lunch
W
instruction at this groomed site, just south of
town and off the South Park Loop Road. For a
trail map and more info. visit the website: tetonwyo.org/parks. Dial up the activity hotline, 7396789, for track grooming schedules and ski
conditions, or call 733-5056 for more information about skate-skiing instruction.
®
Open 7 Days a Week
Breakfast & Lunch: 7am-3pm
Coffee & Pastries: 3pm-7pm
130 N. Cache 734-0075
www.bunnery.com
WESTSIDE
WINE &
SPIRITS
The biggest
and best
selection of
fine wines,
beers and
spirits on the
West Bank
Located at
The Aspens,
Teton Village Rd.
307-733-5038
World Championship Snowmobile Hillclimb
[email protected]
westsidewineandspirits.com
19
MADE IN JACKSON HOLE
The Tetons have inspired many to explore, some to
settle. But making ends meet while putting down roots
in Jackson Hole has always been a challenge. How to
keep the belly full, the rent paid, the car running, and
Christmas presents under the tree without neglecting
skis, resort passes, and after-ski hobnobbing?
These entrepreneurs have made it in Jackson Hole by
actually creating something in Jackson Hole. Or at least
by transforming a Teton-inspired idea into a regular
paycheck!
CLIMBING SKINS DIRECT
Principal: Rick Liu developed
telemark skiing’s first cable binding in 1981 and was Life-Link’s
Head of Product Development
from 1986 to 1995. He then became a partner in Ascension Enterprises, manufacturer of the
successful "purple climbing
skins." In 2004 he developed
Climbing Skins Direct: climbing
skins with direct Internet sales.
Product:
Climbing skins for skis
Mission Statement:
Provide tough, lightweight
climbing skins directly to the
backcountry skier.
Business Plan: Sell climbing
skins directly to backcountry
skiers while minimizing packaging and trash.
Years in Business: Three
Reach of company: Worldwide
Market Innovation: Providing
tough skins without making
them stiff and heavy.
Future Vision for Product:
Continue to innovate, make
skins lighter, tougher, and easier
to take on and off in the field.
Climbing Skins Direct owner Rick Liu
POWDERHORN
Principal: Switzerland’s Christian Baettig
was living in Mammoth, California, “back
in the day,” wearing original Powderhorn
clothing designed and sewn in Jackson
Hole. Still passionate about the brand and
his heroes who wore it, he bought the license in 2006 and reopened the Jackson
shop.
20
Mission Statement: Open new terrain in
ski fashion and functionality, answering the
call of every hardcore skier with true performance outerwear.
Business Plan: Bring back the Powderhorn
brand with the same spirit, innovation, and
Western design as the original classic
pieces.
Years in Business: Reborn two years ago
after a 15-year dormancy
Reach of company: Worldwide—North
America, Switzerland, Germany, Austria,
France, Italy, Australia, United Kingdom,
Asia, Russia, Sweden
Market Innovation: Introduced many
new features to ski apparel, including:
powder skirts, high collars, inside pockets
for goggles and stashes, zipper flap, Velcro
closures on cuffs, incorporating down fabric into ski jackets, and, of course, the ever
famous zip-off sleeves!
Future Vision for Product: We will always keep a collection of Western fashion
with flare, but as we grow, we will create
other collections that trend away from
Western styling in order to appeal to a
broader market.
McKoy; Woodall
Powderhorn Marketing Manager Katie Jackson
Product: Comprehensive collection of
base and mid-weight
layers, and outerwear tops and bottoms utilizing
technical fabrics
such as Schoeller,
waterproof corduroy,
natural alpaca wool,
and Primaloft and
down insulations.
Powderhorn originally staked its claim
in the world of ski
fashion with Western-inspired down-filled ski parkas, notable
for their colorful shoulder yokes. In the rebirth of the brand we continue to be
meticulous about the fashion details with
our contrast stitching, Western rivets, and
jean-snap button closures.
JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT COMPANY
Principals: Dan and Suzanne
Marino
Product: Buffalo and elk steaks,
jerky, salami, whole tenderloins,
sausage, burgers, prime rib,
brisket, ribs, all cuts available.
Mission Statement: To provide, at
a fair price, highly nutritious and
well-prepared food items using
only quality ingredients. To educate the public on the health benefits of buffalo and elk products.
Dan and Suzanne Marino, owners Jackson Hole Buffalo
Meat Company
Business Plan: To continue to grow
the company and educate the public
on our healthy and nutritious products. To franchise the business in the
future with outlets in selected areas
around the USA. Promote sustainable made-in-Wyoming, made-inthe USA products.
Years in Business: The company
has been in business since 1947.
We have owned Jackson Hole Buffalo Meat for the last 11 years.
Market Innovation: The most
significant market innovation we
have come up with is our Wild
Times Buffalo Jerky. It is like a
Power or Energy Bar in jerky
form. Fortified with white ginseng and the highest grade vitamin
B12, this product is healthy, nutritious, tastes great, and may really
help increase energy levels.
Future Vision for Product: Franchising the business to make the
product more readily available to
other markets around the country.
21
MADE IN JACKSON HOLE
Jason Tattersall
IGNEOUS
Principal: Michael Parris quit his job building robots for NASA to live
in a cardboard box and make skis.
Product: Handcrafted custom skis, snowboards, and skateboards
Business Plan: Continue to refine our product through extensive testing.
Our ability to design, manufacture, and ride in Jackson Hole allows us to
innovate and customize to meet specific needs. Each pair of skis is custom-designed and built to the specifications of an individual rider. Developing relationships with our riders informs our design and
construction processes. Our craftsmen are lifelong skiers with passion
that is evident in the product.
Years in Business: We’ve been making skis since 1994; we hesitate to call
it a business.
Reach of company: 60% Jackson Hole, 25% other Rocky Mountains,
10% Northeast, 4% Europe, 1% Japan
Market Innovation: The concept of custom skis handmade by skiers.
Ski-shape geometry to match the style of the turn: Carver, GS, FallLine,
StraightLine. Custom-tailored construction to dial in the feel of the ride:
hardwood maple and ash cores, custom-profiled to stiffness and flex pattern; stitched triaxial fiberglass to adjust torsion and stability; Aramid
fiber to deflect rock shots; oversized edges for durability and tuning
longevity; wood veneer top-sheets for good looks and a lively ride.
Future Vision for Product: 100 Igneous riders aboard the new tram
22
Igneous owner Mike Parris
McKoy (this page); courtesy Cloudveil (facing page)
Mission Statement: Igneous strives to produce the finest skis on the
planet.
CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS
any outdoor adventure in the Tetons and that
no one else in the U.S. outdoor apparel industry was providing this innovative fabric, we
created our first jacket prototype, the
Serendipity. Since then we’ve progressed with
other great fabrics, distributors, and styles, but
the soft-shell fabric is still our calling card.
Future Vision for Product: Continue providing gear that people are psyched to wear
for their outdoor adventures, whether it’s a
yurt trip in B.C. or simply throwing on a favorite puffy to get a coffee. We love Jackson
Hole, and being able to make it work in this
valley is the icing on the cake.
COME BY THE
CLOUDVEIL STORE TODAY
Brian Cousins and Stephen Sullivan, co-founders
Cloudveil
TO GET READY FOR THOSE DEEP SHOTS
THIS WINTER!
Principals: Brian “Cuzz” Cousins, president
and co-founder; Stephen “Sulli” Sullivan,
vice president and co-founder
Product: Technical Backcountry Apparel
Mission Statement: Dedicated to producing
the highest-quality, technically innovative
performance mountain apparel in the world.
Business Plan: At this point we have a good
grasp on the intricacies of cash flows and
supply chains, but if anyone who’s trying to
start up their own business knew all of this
before they started, there’s a good chance
they’d be scared off and probably never do it.
It was a “learn as you go” operation and getting to this point has definitely been a trip.
Years in Business: Twelve years and running
with our outdoor apparel line, three years
with our angling program.
120 West Pearl
JACKSON, WYOMING
307-739-3930
Reach of company: Worldwide
Market Innovation: The spark was ignited
when a friend brought over a pair of stretchwoven climbing pants from Chamonix,
France. Realizing these pants fit the bill for
across from
Pearl Street Bagels
Free Parking Available
Gabe Rogel
23
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Ski stories from a phenomenal winter
The testimonials are unanimous: last winter Jackson Hole skiers and snowboarders saw the
Nordic Ski God, Ullr, every day!
“The conditions were so exceptionally good,” says Pepi Stiegler. “I could rave about it on and on
and on, and everybody does. It was just heavenly.”
Fellow former Olympian Tommy Moe saw it too. “After living in Jackson Hole for thirteen
years, it seemed like I skied more powder last winter than ever before in my life,” he
says. “The whole season, everywhere we went, the backcountry, inbounds, it was
all good. A dream-come-true winter.”
The dream continues. A new tram. A fresh winter. Reliving old ski stories as we make new ones. The heart of our existence ringing out like
the chorus once sung by the U.S. Army 10th Mountain Division:
“Two boards upon cold powder snow, Yo Ho!
What else does a man need to know?”
24
Tommy Moe
Charlotte Moats
Jeff Leger
Last year I skied a lot with my wife
Megan, who was pregnant. We laughed because the baby was skiing powder—not
born yet, but already skiing a lot of powder.
And ever since she was born, she likes to be
bounced around a lot and taken on bike
rides. I bet it’s from all the movement of skiing while she was in the womb. Our baby
girl, Taylor, is going to be a tough little Tomgirl. I’m looking forward to getting out
there and skiing with her in a backpack.
One day it was so deep, it was eerie. I
sunk down to my shoulders when I
stopped. I remember standing there in the
beautiful silence in total disbelief that so
much snow could be so perfectly stable.
And yet, it was. I was with two friends and
no matter how fast we lapped, Mother Nature was faster. We had first tracks on the
same favorite line, over and over and over,
with no one and nothing in sight except the
very top of my partner’s pom pom.
I managed to get first tracks in Corbet’s
and S&S on the same day, with a Bamboozler in between! Everybody was lagging, not
wanting to get after it too quickly because
we’d had so much snow all winter. So after
Corbet’s, instead of doing the sneak back to
East Ridge chair, I had time to hit Meet
Your Maker, Broadway, and Toilet Bowl—a
combination I like to call The Bamboozler—then ride three lifts back up to the top,
and still get first tracks in S&S! Sweet!
McKoy
continued next page
Kevin Brazell, JH Resort backcountry
25
DATE
INCHES
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
5
0
0
5
7
2
1
4
0
0
0
0
0
0
5
2
8
NOVEMBER
DECEMBER
1 0
2 1
3 2
4 6
5 1
6 6
7 9
8 5
9 1
10 1
11 4
12 0
13 2
14 2
15 1
16 7
17 1
18 7
19 4
20 10
21 9
22 2
26
TOTAL
Jess McMillan
Every skier in Jackson Hole has a list of lines we’d like to
SNOW
ski someday. We start talking about our lists in September
FALL
and try to have them finished by April 5—an impossible task,
105”
since Jackson contains a lifetime of ski lines. That’s what keeps
skiers skiing in Jackson, year after year.
One line on my list from the beginning, a rite of passage for
me, is S&S Couloir. Maybe we shouldn’t even call it a line. It’s more
of a 25-foot-crack drop. From the top it looks like you are launching yourself into oblivion. If that is not intimidating enough, you
must first sign in with patrol to ski the line. This is really weird, because you are basically letting the patrol know that you are throwing caution to the wind and about to huck yourself into a really
big chasm.
One morning, after it had snowed a couple feet, we walked
into the patrol shack, signed our lives away, and headed to the
drop.
When we arrived, local ski legend Wild Bill was already there,
peering into the chasm. “Do you think it’s soft?” I asked. He gave
us that crazy look of his and dropped in. We couldn’t see him land
but heard his shouts at the bottom of the couloir. “It must be soft,”
we all said. Next, Eric Seymour launched himself without hesitation and Bob Kilmane followed—lemmings hucking off the cliff.
Everyone had jumped. Now I was up there by myself, peerTOTAL
ing into the crack that seemed to have no bottom. It would
SNOW
have been easy to back away and save it for another day, but
DEPTH
I really wanted to check it off my list. I stepped away from the
53”
lip of the drop and took a deep breath. I gave myself a little pep
talk, counted to three, and skied off the edge.
Conor Horigan drops into the “chasm” known as S&S Couloir.
Jeff Leger skis the vast expanse below Rendezvous Peak.
McKoy photos
Calendar of Snowfall
Our snowfall calendar lists some of the
weather data posted last winter by the BridgerTeton National Forest Backcountry Avalanche
Hazard & Weather Forecast. The current daily
forecast can be viewed at jhavalanche.com or
heard by calling 307-733-2664. It includes:
area Mountain Weather Forecast and General
Avalanche Forecast; past 24-hour temperature and wind data from a weather station near
the tram’s summit at 10,400’; snowfall/precipitation data from two weather stations—the
Raymer Plot between the Headwall and
Casper Bowl at elevation 9,300’, and the Rendezvous Bowl Plot at 9,580’.
I stepped away from
the lip of the drop and
took a deep breath. I
gave myself a little pep
talk, counted to three,
and skied oﬀ the edge.
The free-fall was quick, the landing soft.
My body buzzed with adrenaline and my
mind was relieved. Maybe lemmings do
know something that few humans will ever
experience: a sense of complete and unfettered freedom.
Chris Figenshau
One day, a powerful storm blew in from
the south. It didn’t dump a lot of snow and
actually scraped snow off most aspects. But it
blew in S&S Couloir as deep as I’ve ever seen
it. Just unbelievable! Four or five feet deep in
there. I jumped in and the snow was so deep
it took my ski goggles from my face and
pushed them halfway up my head.
That was the first of three times I did S&S
that day. I had it to myself for some reason. It
was one of those great moments where you
luck out, make the right call and nobody else
seems to clue into it.
I remember calling my friend Marvin because he wanted to go in. He was on the gondola, trying to get up there as fast as he could.
I went in a second time and called him again
from the Thunder lift line. We hooked up and
went to the top. He looked into S&S and said,
“It’s all bombed out, you can’t go in there.” So
we skied away, but I went back around and
found one more little nugget in there and did
it a third time.
Then I called Marvin again!
Kevin Brazell
It was a mid-February morning, and we
began our ski patrol day in the dark, as usual,
going up the lifts to do snow control. We got
to the bottom of Thunder chair lift and it was
closed due to high wind at the saddle. We radioed our bottom-feeder base patrol for a tow
and skijored behind his ‘bile up to Rendezvous Bowl.
There, on the leeward slope, it was nice,
and calm, and quiet. We rode the East Ridge
chair lift and assessed the snow-control situation. The stiff north wind seemed to be resolving our snow-stability issues within the
resort.
The wind just kept going and going, and
sure enough, nothing but the gondola
opened. We stayed at the Top of the World
and did our daily jobs: checking the status of
touring gates, mending tattered boundary
lines and other blown-away signage, digging
out toboggans, and preparing rescue equipment.
The work finally done, the wind still
blowing hard out of the north and still totally
calm in Rendezvous Bowl, the East Ridge lift
spinning, we finally got some of the white
stuff under us, over us, and in that pocket we
probably left open.
The breakable wind slab in the bowl led
us to start lapping Corbet’s Couloir. A steady
35-to-40-mph wind blew straight up the
couloir, scouring and hardening the snow
and making the entrance a virtual wheelchair
27
DECEMBER
DATE
INCHES
23 3
24 3
25 7
26 1
27 2
28 1
29 3
30 15
31 4
JANUARY
28
.5
0
0
0
14
8
6
2
14
8
9
10
8
1
5
1
1
1
11
9
0
0
0
3
7
2
12
7
3
4
TOTAL
SNOW
FALL
210”
Kevin Brazell, Moran Face
ramp. The snow inside was chalky
and buffed smooth.
It didn’t matter how we skied it—blindfolded, hands in pockets, right side, left
side, old-school-skiers’ entrance, newschool entrance off the nose—it was all butter! Every turn was like ripping Bounce
softener sheets from the box—into the cave,
over the fin, spray a wall, scope Piggies—it
was all moist!
Hanging a right-hand turn at
TOTAL
Tensleep, the wind was nuking esSNOW
pecially hard. We opened our arms
DEPTH
and held our poles out—full spread98”
eagle style—and the wind pushed us
uphill on the low-grade Marky Mark Traverse, back around to the East Ridge.
And we had it to ourselves all morning!
After awhile, we started talking to some of
the old-dog ‘trollers who hadn’t been in the
couloir for a good 10 or 15 years. It took a
bit of money on the table, but we got them
in. Epic!
Charlotte Moats, Four Pines
Hannah Horigan
One day I was skiing alone and I went
over to Corbet’s. A man there from North
Carolina was just looking in, and he said, “I
don’t know if I’m going to do it.” And I
was like, “Oh come on, it’s easy. Just
TOTAL
SNOW
watch me.” So I jumped in and he
FALL
said,
“I don’t know if I can do it.”
305”
And I said, “Come on, you got it!”
And I totally encouraged him and he
flopped his way in. He did it! He was so excited, he took our picture together! He said,
“I wouldn’t have done it if you hadn’t made
me.” And I said, “Well, now you can check
it off your list.” One of the magazines listed
it in the “Top 100 Things You Should Do
Before You Die.”
Continued page 30
Jess McMillan, The Crags
McKoy photos
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
<HF
FEBRUARY TOTAL
INCHES
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
15
6
5
11
2
3
3
16
7
1
3
1
1
7
0
1
6
0
0
0
0
0
1
3
13
10
0
.1
0
MARCH
1 0
2 12
3 .1
4 7
5 4
6 2
7 0
8 1
9 0
10 .1
30
Lance Cygielman
SNOW
DEPTH
105”
I skied in a hurricane.
Yeah, we get storms in Jackson and we get
winds. Sometimes big winds! But this particular
mid-January morning, it went off the charts.
It had snowed 12-to-14 inches overnight, so I
got in the “Gondi” line early. I figured on a late
opening, but lo and behold, the lift loaded on time
and I was only nine cars back. “Stoked” is an understatement.
I did my usual routine, hitting the Study Plots
from the Gondola, and the snow was deeeep! As
I rode up Thunder, it began to get a little windy. I
McKoy (2); Woodall (Newson)
DATE
TOTAL
SNOW
FALL
404”
TOTAL
SNOW
DEPTH
100”
Danny Felice, Little Fat Bastard
Chris Newson, Pepi’s Bench
Peter Pilafian
One of the ironies of filming my Corbet’s
movie: I spent many hours hanging out at the
top of the couloir, filming people going in,
trying to capture the feeling of first-time Corbet’s skiers. Day after day I’d find myself up
there right after first tram, looking at fabulous
conditions. But I was so dedicated, just hanging out with the camera, and shooting and
shooting. By the time I’d get my stories Corbet’s was totally tracked out. Unskiable! I paid
my dues on that one.
Darrell Miller
April Fools Day…remember in Sleeping
Giants, the shot of Cora’s Couloir and the 20foot air out of it? But this year it was totally a
ski-through. So I went back and did that
again, and that felt really good. Still, definitely
the scary stuff, the first top few turns, but
once you’re in, it’s more manageable. And
then the fact of no air at the bottom from such
an insane snow year that filled it in, it was
kind of heartwarming.
Jeff Leger, Zero G
jumped into Laramie Bowl and looked across at
the Sublette chair to see if was running—it’s highly
susceptible to wind closure and the winds were
definitely increasing.
It was running, so I fast-tracked down
Laramie Bowl, traversed to yet another epic untracked run under the Alta Chutes, and beelined
for the chair. We loaded—no singles allowed, the
wind now howling—and off we went, envisioning
untracked runs down Cheyenne Bowl and the
Hobacks.
Then it hit. The wind went nuclear! The chair
lift stopped, our chair over a cliff, and we started
swinging. Now it really had my attention and I
started praying for this chair not to loop over the
cable. We finally started creeping uphill very
slowly and we all prayed we would get to the top,
because if this lift went down, ours would be one
sick evacuation.
Finally, we got off at the top and my first instinct was to ski into the woods and out of the
wind and enjoy the pow’. I was 110-percent sure
Sublette chair was going to close.
The light, the snow, the wind—it was all surreal. I got back to the bottom of Sublette chair lift,
and not only had the lift closed, but I was advised
that the entire mountain was shutting down and
the ski patrol had recorded 90-to-100 mph winds.
I skied a lower face, the wind screaming like a
freight train chasing me down the mountain, and
took shelter indoors.
could experience it from all three dimensions, this
incredible storm out there on the flats.
And then the power went out.
Mike Tierney
I ski some crazy lines. Sometimes I get into
trouble—and then I have to get myself out of trouble. I had one of those moments while skiing Talk
to Rocks, a line off the front of Cody Peak that had
never been done before. All I can say is, I wouldn’t really recommend it.
It’s a connect-the-dots route and includes
some really sketchy rock scrambling and a 40-foot
air that I had to jump while standing on rocks and
pushing off with my poles. It was a pretty awkward move.
I had done a variation of the route a couple
times: ski down Shirley’s Face and, right before the
big cliff, sneak around a little corner into Igneous
Rocks. It looked like I could come in from the
other side: ski Talk is Cheap, traverse across a
ledge, and jump into a deep pocket of snow in the
top of Igneous Rocks.
It was a beautiful day, super sunny. I had some
really good friends in town that are rad skiers who
were hitting Central for the first time, and, you
know, I couldn’t let them down. But when I skied
“en it hit. e wind went
nuclear! e chair lift stopped
with us swinging over a cliﬀ. I
started praying for this chair
not to loop over the cable.”—
Lance Cygielman
Mike Maples
The Friday Afternoon Ski Club was in session. The chair lifts were all closed from fierce
upper-mountain winds. It was blowing so hard as
we rode up the Gondola, the consensus was, “Boy,
I don’t think they’re going to be able to keep the
Gondola open either.” And sure enough, before
we left the top, they stopped sending people up
that lift, too. The mountain was closed.
We did the Blowzinski Traverse, went way
around to the south side of the mountain, and the
storm was raging so hard you couldn’t hear anything but the wind. We skied Sublette to the bottom and it was untracked, just like first thing in
the morning. Ski tracks got blown in right behind
the last person who skied it. But no one was skiing it. No one was up there but us.
I got home by three o’clock, then they closed
the Village Road and a lot of people got stuck out
there. It was such an intense storm, so violent in
our neighborhood. I climbed up on my roof so I
31
MARCH
INCHES
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out for the rocks at the bottom, and do the
final jump, an 80-footer. “Sweet, I’m home
free.”
I made my way down to the jump at the
bottom, trying to be smooth about it. Then it
got crazy again right before the takeoff. It
turned to sugar snow and I poked through and
scraped some rock. I’d done the air before and
had landed it, but this time, even though I
thought I might still pull it off and was like,
“Oh sweet,” at the last second my body just
shifted, and I was like, “Uh oh!” I hit and just
exploded.
I dropped a pole—my lucky poles—so I
had to walk back up to the landing zone to get
it. I didn’t get hurt. I was real fired up. My
friends were stoked. Definitely my most magic
moment of the winter, for sure. I was super
bummed that I didn’t land the jump, so I
wanted to go back and do it again.
But not that way. Not Talk to Rocks.
TOTAL
SNOW
FALL
505”
McKoy (2); Woodall (TGR)
DATE
Conor Horigan, The Diagonal
down the face, the snow in Talk is Cheap was
heavy. It was a bad place to be and I wanted to get
off the route quickly.
I got to the ledge and realized it was too steep
to ski across. There were corners that roll off, way more
severely than they appear to from below. It’s so steep,
and those ledges are really narrow. All I could see were
the cliffs below me and the really big set of cliffs at the
bottom. “Oh, man! Whew! What have I gotten myTOTAL
self into?”
SNOW
I took my skis off and started rock climbing.
DEPTH
I’m walking across, and I’m like, “Holy smoke, I
140”
hope this works. I
hope I know what I’m
“It’s so steep, and
doing.” I had one of
APRIL
those panic moments,
those ledges are
1 3 but still tried to mainreally narrow.
2 1 tain focus so I could
do the scramble
Oh, man!
3 2 moves. Free climbing.
No protection.
Whew! What
4 0
I made it to the
have I gotten
5 3 TOTAL jump and had to
put
my
skis
myself into?”—
6 4 SNOW
back on while
FALL
605”
standing
on
7 2 rocks. I made those
Mike Tierney
moves
very
delicately,
8 4
not wanting to lose my balance, kick a ski and have it
9 1 go shooting off, or drop it. I couldn’t see the jump very
and I thought, “Oh, my god, it’s a lot bigger than I
10 1 well,
thought.” Even though I’d seen my landing zone from
11 1 the other side and I knew it was deep, I thought, “That
better be deep.” Because if I punched through and hit
12 .1 rocks, I’d be crushed up there with no way anyone could
13 0 get to me. I’d be really bumming. I’d shatter my hip, because it’s one of those jumps where you have to hip
16 6 TOTAL check to spill all your speed. It’s a pretty steep little pocket. I was like, “Oh, man! I hope I don’t
17 .1 SNOW
FALL
bounce. I hope I don’t punch through to rocks.”
615”
But it was primo. It was super deep. I made
and on
that jump count. Didn’t fall. Absorbed all my speed. I
like this
was wedged into the top of the Igneous Rocks hanging
till
mid-June snowfield. I was psyched, in familiar territory from then
on. All I had to do was make some steep turns, watch
32
TOTAL
SNOW
DEPTH
130”
Eric Roner, TGR, Pucker Face
Lisa Watson
Two years ago, Kit DesLauriers and I did a
“countdown to Central,” skiing Once is Enough,
Twice is Nice, Shady Lady, and Horseshoe. She
helped me make sure I had the skills to do Central
and the ability to deal with any problems I might
have on tele’s. But that year the weather turned
bad on the day I was planning to go in, and since
then I’ve been dying to do it.
So last year I asked my friend AJ Cargill if
she’d take me in. She’s skied it every year, pretty
much. Tristan, my co-worker, went first, then I
climbed down into it and put my skis on. Then AJ
went and, because it’s so steep, she disappeared
this is a day to go skiing!” I tucked the camera
away for awhile and just enjoyed a bunch of deep
powder runs.
Lynsey Dyer
Early in the season I did a huge 12-hour day in
the backcountry, from boarding the Gondola at
8:00 to finally into the bar at 8:00. The bushwhack
out was like wilderness trekking. We got out in the
dark and squished eight people in a little Subaru.
And, of course, we had to finish it off with a beer
at the Coach, which went straight to the head.
I had been peering at the North Shore from
afar for so long, for years. The skiing was great,
dropping in over those cliff bands—they seem so
big from far away and then you drop in and
they’re not that big.
Next we hiked back up over the north flank
below Rendezvous Peak, toward Saint Patty’s,
and—it’s just so amazing how many different
snow textures you can get in one run—it looked
like the moon. Sastruga and blue ice. If you took
a tumble there you’d be in big trouble.
Jensen Canyon was really spooky. Across the
canyon everything had ripped earlier that day. We
got down in there and heard a ‘whumph.’ It was a
big ‘whumph,’ too! That beer at the Coach never
tasted so good! Jason Tattersall, Four Shadows
out of sight. At the very top it was pretty nice, but
in the crux it’s so super steep you couldn’t make a
turn. I saw how I needed to line up and jump out
of the crux, and I did it and landed where AJ and
Tristan were waiting. People were in front of and
behind us, so we had to keep moving.
From there it was great—really nice powder
turns down to the bottom, where you had to back
up and line up your exit. At that point, I was just
so excited and wasn’t even remotely scared for
some reason and just went flying out.
I did two front flips, landed on my skis, and
fist-pumped my way out of it with blood running
down my lip from a ski hitting me in the face.
It wasn’t easy, but I didn’t feel like I was going
to die. It’s a tough one. I’m not running back to do
it again.
Greg Von Doersten
One storm I remember was incredible, it was
puking so hard. I pulled my camera out and tried
to shoot on the Sublette quad lift. By the time I
got to the top, the whole thing was just caked. It
snowed an inch while we were on the lift.
It was one of those quintessential Jackson
Hole powder days where you go, “You know, man,
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33
Living Legends:
The Tram Builders
By Lauren M. Whaley
34
One day on top of Tower Three, as ice pellets,
snow, and sleet battered their faces, a bolt of
lightning hit the crane. The hair on their arms
and the back of their necks tingled. Time stopped
for a second.
“One of our guys got a small shock,” Schneider remembered. “And then we went
running fast, fast as we could down
the mountain.” His eyes twinkled as
he described the harrowing feats that
come with such work.
Because of the steep location of
Tower Two, crews had to winch its
pieces up for assembly rather than
using the crane. One of Schneider’s
coworkers found himself in the precarious position of having to free a
five-ton piece of steel from a tree.
Schneider said the piece leapt up and
fell down, almost crushing his
coworker.
“He had to run for it!” Schneider
said, smiling.
Austrian born Hans Burkhart
had the unenviable role of crane operator. He lifted up tower pieces,
formed the top terminal, and assembled a temporary bridge on the
track ropes for local Norm Duke, a cable technician of international renown, to splice the haul
rope in midair.
Perched in a 90-ton crane above a cliff, the
Tristan Greszko (left, facing page); Bob Woodall (top)
They braved lightning, snow, winds, sleet, and
dizzying heights to construct the western ski
world’s newest living legacy: the Jackson Hole
Mountain Resort’s replacement tram. Nothing
less than a team of the world’s best tram builders
would do.
The resort had decided to decommission its
signature tram because it had simply worn out
and safety would have become a chief concern for
the 40-year-old symbol of high-mountain skiing.
After the legend was removed, the real work of
constructing the area’s next landmark began. The
Swiss-made replacement tram would transport
100 skiers at a time to Rendezvous Mountain’s
10,940-foot summit in about eight minutes,
nearly doubling its predecessor’s capacity and cutting the ride time by about three minutes.
The new car #1 goes up in October.
Tim Mason, vice president of mountain operations for the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, speaking boss, indicated that all the Swiss workhelped turn the blueprints and renderings into ers won’t soon forget Jackson Hole either.
brick-and-mortar-and-steel. With his Puritan
“I like it very much here,” Eberhard said, his
work ethic, gentle sarcasm, and deep knowledge white hardhat shading his light-blue eyes as he
of all parts electrical, Mason became the prover- spoke through replacement interpreter and Swiss
bial player-coach.
crewman Heinz Schneider. “I’m thirty years in the
“We’re all really proud of this
crazy, big effort,” he said. “Everyone did their part and we all
helped each other out.”
Swiss workers from Garaventa—the company that manufactured
all
the
tram’s
parts—completed much of their
work from the sides of cliffs or
hanging in midair. Wearing wool
caps under hardhats, chain-smoking cigarettes and downing soda
by the 2-liter bottle, Garaventa’s
crews worked 12-hour days, six
days a week.
“The Swiss,” Mason said,
“work in any weather, in any condition.” He was especially impressed with Aschi, Garaventa’s
interpreter (many of the Swiss didn’t speak English). “Aschi had the
ability to work fourteen hours a Norm Duke splices the haul cable.
day, seven days a week,” Mason said. “We can’t business and think it’s like Switzerland to work
forget him.” Unfortunately, a car accident forced here. The culture is the same, so I prefer this to
his premature return to Switzerland for recovery. other job sites.”
Hanspeter Eberhard, Garaventa’s SwissThe weather always challenged the workers.
same one rived by Corbet’s Couloir, at
what Jackson Hole workers call “The Top
of the World,” Burkhart delicately hoisted
giant pieces of aluminum sheets to be
bolted down as decking for the new upper
tram terminal.
“Operating a crane in the parking lot
is one thing; operating a crane on the
mountain is another thing,” said the 73year-old. “You’d like to get as close to a
tower or platform as you can. Most of the
time, you can’t. So you have to take
chances by being on the edge of something very steep.”
Taking chances has led this tall,
tanned, world-renowned crane expert to
balance his machine on loose rock near
the upper terminal, to perch in a tiny needle crane stuck to the side of the mountain beside Tower Two, and to pivot on a
boom crane at the base.
Burkhart has worked in the ski business for 45 years, and helped raise trams
for Squaw Valley, Snowbird, and Vancouver. He was also instrumental in constructing Squaw Valley’s 1998 Funitel: a
“complicated lift” of 46 28-passenger cabins with a capacity of 4,000 passengers an
hour.
One day on top of
Tower Three, as
ice pellets, snow,
and sleet battered
their faces, a bolt
of lightning hit
the crane.
Tristan Greszko
Yet after 45 years as a crane operator,
20 of those spent as general manager for
Squaw Valley USA, Burkhart found himself drenched with snow, operating on
the side of a mountain in Wyoming’s
Teton Range.
“This Swiss guy comes out to Squaw
Valley and says, ‘We are having difficulties building at Jackson Hole. We need
you. Would you come out?’” Burkhart recalled. “I got three daughters, and they
say, ‘Dad you’re crazy. Why the hell do
A worker scales Tower One.
35
The New York Times reported that no
major tram in the United States has been
built since 1992; Snowbird, Sandia Peak,
and Squaw built trams in the ‘70s.
Installing the slack carriers
36
Tristan Greszko (bottom); Wade McKoy (top); Bob Woodall (facing page)
New Tower One, old Tower One
you want to go to Jackson?’ And, of course, when they tell me I’m crazy, that’s
when I say, ‘Then, I have to go.’ ”
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort crews spent most of April plowing roads
and chopping ice. By mid-May there were still 122 inches at the bottom of
Rendezvous Bowl.
“We built Tower One, Tower Three, and Tower Four in the snow,”
Burkhart said. “But we just kept working no matter what. Every day, we were
in the snow fighting the weather. Crews plowed the road up on top in midJune with snow banks ten feet high.”
Shane Ward, Rick Grant, and Curt Willard, locally born Jackson Hole
High School classmates with a combined 60 years of service at the resort, rebuilt the roads with materials imported from gravel pits in the valley. They
also used this material to fashion a road into Tower Four so crews could get
a crane to the site.
Jake Elkins, self-proclaimed “dirt guy” who directs the ski patrol in winter and in-house construction in summer, said the whole area turned into a
quagmire.
"The sub base of our road pretty much went to mud," he said. "Once that
goes away, you can't get the heavy trucks through."
After several weeks of setbacks, Elkins and resort crews finally rebuilt the
road and put a crane in to Tower Four just in time for a three-day snowstorm
that brought seven-foot drifts to the area.
Elkins and ski patrollers also intentionally triggered two avalanches in
mid-June, so the snow wouldn’t slide on its own. The debris again wrecked the
access roads.
“Winter never quit; it just kept coming and coming and coming,” Elkins
said. “We were in the business of snow removal until about the fifteenth of
June. May and June were a significant struggle.”
Still, Elkins, who came here in 1973 to “ski bum for a season,” said the
tram is the most exciting project he’s ever worked on.
“To see this one through two construction seasons, including a winter, is
really incredible,” he said. “I think everybody on the crew has been pretty
jazzed about working on a project of this magnitude. We’re each doing our little portion of it.”
As these men worked 12-hour days for the icon's resurgence, the hype
built in a country where only 19 public tramways exist, including those for
sightseeing. The New York Times reported that no major tram in the United
States has been built since 1992; Snowbird, Sandia Peak, and Squaw built
trams in the ‘70s.
Resort President Jerry Blann said the new tram is an “engineering feat.”
And lift maintenance mechanic Jeff Wilson noted that there is “nothing
human-sized about the tram.”
Not only are the new tram cars nearly twice the size of the old ones, coming in at 15,700 pounds each, but all the tram components feel giant compared to the old ones.
The drive room under the lower terminal houses the bollards—huge cement spools lined with Beachwood that anchor the track and haul cables. The
electrical systems for the tram live in this room. Resort electrician Troy Stoker
worked with other contractors to install the system’s wiring and drive. When
everything is blinking and pumping and grinding, the room feels like it’s set
deep in the heart of a mountain.
Up above, the loading platform at the lower terminal glides back and forth
with effortless grace.
Mason credits Jackson Hole general contractor Stan Zaist for coordinating about 25 different trades to construct the top and bottom terminals.
Old & New
The original tram cars
(left) carried 63 skiers.
Replaced with larger
cars in 1989, the number
of passengers was
eventually reduced to
52 to further alleviate
crowding. The new cars
(artist’s rendition right)
carry 100 skiers.
Anchored in the bottom terminal and
stretching up the mountain are the 100-ton cables. The four enormous track ropes and one haul
rope are strung taut between each of the five galvanized-steel towers, each of which is bigger than
its predecessor.
Three backup systems, including a massive
generator, are in place at the lower terminal so
tram riders never have to evacuate the cars. But
despite the tram’s brutish feel, it is run on delicate
controls, said Nic Gladd, former lift electrician.
“The operation will actually be taking place
in an incredibly sterile, medical-like lab, complete
with white lab coats,” he said, describing the control room in the lower terminal building. “That’s
how you have to operate a thirty-million-dollar
machine.”
The big machine brings out the sentimental
side of some tram builders, like Chuck Melichar,
a charismatic storyteller with a bushy mustache
and a big laugh. Melichar built lifts all over the
country in the 1980s.
“To be building one of the top tramways in
the world, it’s something you always dream
about,” Melichar said. He added that the new
tram has reignited in him the pride he felt in
those early days of being part of something new
and innovative.
“The tram is unique; it’s like a Phoenix for
me,” he said, smiling and looking up the mountain. “This is the firebrand of Jackson Hole rising
out of the wreckage of the old tramway and flying
people up to the top of the mountain again.”
To help the Phoenix rise, unsung heroes like
“Big Steve” Parker have to work out the kinks.
“Whenever anything breaks, I fix it,” said the
vehicle maintenance manager. “I helped support
all the equipment that went to ‘The Top of the
World.’ ”
One of Parker’s biggest projects was to help
fix a crane axel that broke in June en route between Towers Three and Four. It broke just before the Laramie traverse. Parker’s co-worker
Tim Carberry helped him by driving up a Cat to
investigate.
“We just kept everything going up the hill,”
said Carberry, a Wyoming native. “All summer, I
just used the 730 rock truck with a flat bed. I’d
make several trips a day: load, drive, unload, and
drive. I was a trucker.”
“If it wasn’t for the dump trucks, nothing
would have gotten done,” Mason said.
After an estimated $25 million, the project
wound up costing over $31 million. That’s over 12
times the original tram construction cost of $2.5
million in 1966.
“What is the market value of such a machine?” pondered resort president Jerry Blann.
“The economic return is hard to calculate, but it’s
worth it because of the icon factor.”
The workers that have dismantled the old red
legend and built a new one will never forget the
snow that wouldn’t stop, the roads that washed
out, and the six-days-per-week work schedule.
“These guys are the hardest workers I’ve seen
in my life,” Mason said. “And we’re all here for
the same reason. We all love this incredible
mountain.” Lauren Whaley is a writer living in Jackson
Hole. She wrote “Tram Diaries” on the resort’s
TramFormation website.
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37
Jackson Hole tram inspires vertical-foot tallies
S
Seekers of maximum vertical have long employed the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram. To this day,
thousands of skiers and snowboarders celebrate
their lofty achievements by wearing testimonial
pins and belt buckles awarded by the Jackson Hole
Resort for logging 100,000, 300,000, 500,000, or a
million vertical feet.
In 1968, one quest set the benchmark. A team
of five Jackson Hole skiers claimed the World
Marathon Ski Record: 25 trams, 103,475 vertical
feet, in eight hours. This topped a 1966 record set
at Taos Ski Valley, New Mexico, when ski instructor and lodge owner Jean Mayer skied a total of
97,200 vertical feet by completing 60 rides in one
day on the area’s high-speed chair lift.
The record day in Jackson got off to a rough
start, though. Ski instructors Ferdi Fettig, Paul
Perner, Bruce Morley, Dean Anderson, and
mountain manager Dick Randolph lost a halfhour’s time on the first two runs.
“Morley came out of his bindings on the first
trip down and broke his skis,” the 1968 press release revealed. “Anderson fell and broke his skis
on the second run. Then the five skiers completed
23 straight runs without a single fall.”
In a recent letter, Ferdi Fettig wrote his memories of the event:
“The route of the descent was Rendezvous
Bowl, Laramie Traverse, Amphitheater, and lower
Tramline. The fastest run I made was about 4
minutes, 30 seconds. One time I skied Rendezvous Bowl straight down! It was a fantastic day
of skiing, flying down the mountain with almost
no turns, enjoying the speed.”
The former German National Giant Slalom
38
champion continued, saying, “We finished skiing
at about 3:45, and if you also consider the lost
time at the beginning, we could have done two or
three more runs. Afterward, I felt a little bit tired,
but not more than skiing with Pepi Stiegler at a
Nastar Trial Handicap on Après Vous—10 runs in
a row, and 35 degrees below!”
And where was Stiegler, Jackson’s ski school
director and Austria’s Olympic Gold and Silver
Medalist? “Pepi was going to join us that day, but
his Porsche wouldn't start,” said Morley in a quote
from Jackson Hole on a Grand Scale. When asked
about it recently, Pepi concurred, saying, “That’s
how things were with the Porsche. Air-cooled.
Not exactly a winter vehicle.”
The 1968 event inspired many personal attempts, one such by ski guide Dave Miller and instructor Chris Leveroni in the 1980s.
“Dave Miller and I did one, impromptu, on a
crummy day in April,” said Leveroni. “Conditions
were lunar—frozen coral reef, nobody else on the
hill. I did 20 trams, starting and ending with ski
patrol cars at 8:00 and 3:40. We did a no-repeat
day, including Tower Three, Lower Faces, Corbet’s
to the Cirque, the Hobacks. We were going all the
way over to Jackson Face, even onto Ashley Ridge.
We went at a furious pace, and it was a panic each
time. We made every tram, except Miller missed
one when he threw a shoe on the Hobacks. It wasn’t anything official, though.”
Surprisingly, over 30 years passed before the
next official event. In a tribute to Pepi Stiegler, a
team of three men skied a whopping 26 trams. Ski
School Assistant Director Doug Perieni, ski instructor Mike Janssen, and ski patrolman Curt
Woodall (left); McKoy (rt); Paul Ryan (Pepi poster)
World Marathon Ski Records
Chris Newson
1960s-vintage poster of Pepi Stiegler
Speckles each racked up 107,614 vertical in the
February 2001 event, a fundraiser for Teton
County Search and Rescue.
“We asked for a quarter, fifty cents, a dollar,
five or ten dollars per run, whatever people could
afford,” said Janssen, “and we raised four or five
thousand dollars.”
They began at 7:00 a.m. and skied seven
trams at downhill-racer speeds before the mountain opened at 9:00, after which they rode the
same public car all day long.
“We always did the same run: the Bowl, to
East Ridge Traverse, into Tensleep, the Downhill Chute, Amphitheater, and
the Gros Ventre,” Janssen said. “The day was pretty nasty. High winds up top.
Sublette blew down a couple times, and the tram ran slow at some points. Up
high we had limited visibility, blowing snow, fresh powder. Below The Cirque
it was groomers all the way down. It was really, really fun. People would join
us for a few runs here and there, and if there was no tram line they could lap
with us.”
Two years later, the unimaginable happened. Jackson Hole lost to Snowbird, Utah, in a SKIING magazine contest billed in epic terms.
“With their snow, vertical, steeps, and trams, Snowbird and Jackson Hole
have become legends in American skiing,” the press release announced, and
continued with a bold challenge:
“But which resort has the toughest skiers and riders? In what will begin
the greatest rivalry in skiing, four Snowbird athletes riding the Snowbird tram
will race four Jackson Hole athletes riding the Jackson Hole tram in a headto-head, most-vertical-skied-in-a-day-wins competition: SKIING magazine’s
Tram Off!”
A Tram Off! On January 7, 2003, the Snowbird team skied a record 30
trams on the groomed Chip’s Run, from 9 a.m. to 3:45 p.m., receiving massages on each afternoon tram ride.
“Massages on the tram? We didn’t have that,” said Nordic Center Director Scott McGee. “And skiing groomers top to bottom isn’t really an option
here. We’re just a little rougher and tougher up here in Jackson Hole, I guess.”
Tommy Moe
The Snowbird team of four women skied and snowboarded a combined
total of 348,000 vertical to Jackson’s team effort of 347, 676. Each team consisted of two alpine skiers, one telemark skier, and one snowboarder. Jackson’s
ski ambassador and Olympic Gold Medalist Tommy Moe, freeski champ AJ
Cargill, snowboard mountaineer John Griber, and McGee competed against
Snowbird’s pro alpine skiers Shannan Yates and Nora Pincus, pro telemark
skier Kasha Rigby, and Sarah Clemensen.
“I remember skiing untracked powder,” said McGee, “following Tommy
Moe down Hoppy’s Hole, into Lonnie’s Chute—that was a beautiful thing. We
were following Tommy Bartlett around, he was our rabbit, we were the greyhounds. Brilliant weather, good powder, good groomers, no wind, traffic was
low, Christmas rush over. Tucking down the Gros Ventre, pointing ‘em, putting my arms out to the side for a little air brake, then going into a tuck again.
The groomers were like butter.”
“I didn’t drop Corbet’s on the tele’s,” McGee said of the race route, “but
the others did a few times. Mostly we did the Bowl to East Ridge, the Downhill Chute, to Amphitheater, to the Gros Ventre. We also did some variations,
going to Lonnie’s, or Broadway, or The Cirque. It didn’t really matter after a
while because we knew we could make every tram. Bartlett got 26 that day.”
“But you know how everybody hangs back, trying to get the window seat,”
McGee lamented. “That cost us about thirty seconds each tram, so we probably could have gotten one more. That’s all it would’ve taken to win.”
Or a bigger, faster tram. Jackson, with its new tram, has challenged Snowbird to a rematch this winter. Stay tuned. — JH Skier
© 2008 Wolverine World Wide, Inc.
Surprisingly,
over 30 years
passed before
the next official
event. In a
tribute to
Pepi Stiegler, a
team of three
men skied a
whopping 26
trams.
Merrell Footwear and Apparel available at
select retailers including:
Teton Village Sports
Teton Village
307.733.2181
Hoback Sports
520 W. Broadway Ave.
307.733.5335
Jackson Bootlegger
36 E. Broadway on the Square
307.733.6207
39
Beyond Resort Boundaries
Movie skiers regularly and purposely trigger avalanches, their edgy feats neatly packaged
on film to the beats of remixed hip-hop. But real
life out-of-bounds skiing may not be so entertaining and often paints a potentially chilling
picture.
Those who venture beyond the boundary
gates at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort should
know that Teton County has led the nation in
avalanche deaths since 2000, said Bob Comey,
ski patroller and chief avalanche forecaster
at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and director of the Bridger-Teton National
Forest Avalanche Center.
While this startling figure will
send some snowplowing back to
Aprés-Vous, others will still
crave the open-boundary
freedom.
If you do choose to
leave the ski-area boundary, you should know the
risks of skiing on terrain
the ski patrol does not
manage. If necessary,
Teton County Sheriff ’s Office and
Grand Teton National Park–not
the ski patrollers
on the mountain–will coordinate a
rescue.
Jake
Elkins,
ski patrol dire c t or,
summed up
risk-management advice for out-of-bounds skiing in one word: knowledge.
“The best thing they can do when they head
out into the backcountry is have knowledge,” he
advised. “Knowledge of
the terrain, where they’re
going, the most recent
weather, a stability
evaluation. They
should have
knowledge
of transceivers and
how to use
them and know
the weather forecast.”
If you’re the least
bit unsure of your
knowledge or your partners’, hire a guide, suggested Comey. They are
knowledgeable, and local
and cool to boot! They can
lead you to deep cowboy
powder with less risk than if
you venture out on your own.
Sometimes, though, you
don’t even need to leave the ski
area to find the best snow, Comey
said.
“I’ve been skiing here for twentyfive years and often the best snow is
not in the avalanche paths,” he added.
“Being open terrain, avalanche paths are
subject to wind deposition and the effects
of the sun.”
Comey also noted that even if you’re a
great skier, know the area and weather conditions, have perfect equipment and knowledgeable partners, you’re still not guaranteed a
no-avalanche ski run.
“What’s really important is knowing when
not to go, and who not to go with,” Comey said.
“Know the limitations of your partners, know
the risks, and manage those risks. The really big
thing is not getting caught. Some people die in
a shallow burial, with no trauma.” Big: Jeff Leger, No Name Peak
Inset: Jess McMillan, Once is Enough; hikers on Cody Face; Corey Felton, No Name Face
McKoy; Woodall
M
By Lauren M. Whaley
simple
fresh
ita lia n
Tristan Greszko / JHMR
C A F é
Terrain Park
and
Superpipe
Beginning skiers and riders could visit the Little Britches terrain park on Antelope Flats, which
features rails, little jumps, and mini-table tops.
“The mini-park is one of the big attractions
on any given day at Jackson Hole, where all levels
of people can come through and hit some small,
fun jumps and rails,” pro snowboarder Rob Kingwill said.
Experts can check out the Rodeo Grounds
terrain park off the Aprés Vous lift. “There is a
great assortment of rails and boxes to choose
from,” Kingwill said, “all linked together with fun
medium-sized jumps. The park is a great place to
get some experience under your belt before you
head off into the backcountry to build that big
jump and land the trick of your dreams.”
Tips for Safe(er) out-of-bounds travel
For a daily avalanche-hazard forecast go to
www.jhavalanche.org or call 734-2664.
PONZA
Gideon LeGros
“The pipe is a full-size superpipe, extra long
for being able to link together all your tricks,”
Kingwill said. “The great thing is, you can ride the
pipe all day and never hike once, thanks to the
handle-tow right next to the pipe. This lets you
focus on your tricks and not your cardio.”
Resort administrators remind skiers and riders that skiing and riding in control applies to
park and pipe areas too. They advise park and
pipe visitors to look before they leap, make sure
landings are clear, and clear themselves out of the
landing area after sticking their tricks.
For more information on the two terrain
parks, superpipe, and upcoming competitions and
events, visit jacksonhole.com/info/ski.freeride.asp
— Lauren M. Whaley
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Come in and see what’s new!
Knowledge:
• Know the area and the terrain where you
plan to ski.
• Know the area above and below where you
plan to ski; sometimes small avalanches
carry people over cliffs or into terrain traps.
• Know the weather and weather forecast.
• Know how to use your rescue equipment
(and make sure your partners do too).
• Know how to read snow conditions and
terrain.
• Know how to ski expertly; out-of-bounds
terrain is expert skiing, even in the sunniest
of conditions.
Equipment and Companion:
• Always check jhavalanche.org or call the hot
line before venturing out of bounds.
• Always wear a transceiver and carry a probe,
shovel, and extra layers.
• Always check your transceiver’s batteries before venturing out.
• Always ski with a partner.
• Always tell someone in-bounds where you’re
going and check in when you return.
• Always go with someone who knows what
they’re doing. If unsure, hire a guide.
• Never go alone!
We’re so much more than Big Macs® and world famous fries.
Unwind, rewind and plan new adventures.
McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole
Open and serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily
Free Wi-Fi with purchase.
1110 W. Broadway • Jackson, WY
1 mile west of Town Square • 307-733-7444
41
Snow King Resort
Jess McMillan, who grew up running gates on the King, returns on a pow’ day. Below: The resort’s proximity to town, the elk refuge, and the Tetons paints a pretty picture.
by Jeff Burke
The backdrop for much of the valley’s history, Snow King
has witnessed it all. But for Jackson Hole’s town hill, the future
begins now.
Jonathan Selkowitz (top left); Bob Woodall (2)
Snow King got its first lift from Neil Rafferty in 1939, when he moved a rope tow
across the valley from nearby Teton Pass. Its lifts and fame grew slowly over the decades
as the hill gained a devoted following of ski jumpers and racers. More recently, though,
an exploding mountain-lifestyle culture has helped earn Jackson Hole a reputation for
its world-class recreational opportunities, rife with wildlife, adventure, and wide-open
spaces. At the center, poised to take advantage of that culture, is Snow King itself.
At a glance, the resort has been undergoing a facelift. The proliferation of Love
Ridge condominiums over the last few years has changed the landscape of the hill’s base
area. And this coming spring, Snow King will launch the Grand View Lodge and Spa
at Love Ridge, a sophisticated property featuring an 11,000-square foot wellness spa—
“Spa Verde”—in an eco-luxury setting, “creating a natural, modern and environmentally friendly responsible retreat,” says Erin Ennis, Director of Sales and Marketing.
“The spa’s contemporary design incorporates a water feature from a natural hillside
spring, encouraging harmony with our environment.”
A destination itself, Spa Verde is also designed for the local community to take advantage of all its offerings. “The luxury property will offer a unique Jackson Hole experience,” says Ennis, “featuring a fine-dining restaurant, fireside lounge, 25,000 sq. ft.
of [special] function space, including outdoor venues with expansive views of the National Elk Refuge and Teton Mountain Range.”
42
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Lunch 11:30-2:30
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Dinner 5:30-9:30
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Extensive wine list
Full Bar
Open 7 days a week
sweetwaterrest.com
Call 733-3553
Corner of King & Pearl
Sean Clark, another homeboy and four-time Town DH champ, carves up the untracked groomers.
Future King makes its own history
Part of Snow King’s walk into the future is introducing a new director of recreation, Tom Fortune, who comes to Snow King from Schweitzer
Mountain in Idaho. “I’m excited to be here,” says
Fortune. “I’ve never worked on a community ski
hill, and I’m looking forward to moving to Jackson Hole.”
But stepping into a new position will have its
challenges. “Definitely,” says Fortune. “Growing
the business is always a challenge. But I’m seeing
big opportunities for summer activities. For winter, I’d like to get some glading done (thinning
forested areas between established ski runs) to
keep things fresh for the locals.” Jacksonites who
milk every little secret line through the woods
could soon have many more options for skiing the
trees. And while Fortune focuses on increasing
business and creating efficiencies on the expenses
end, “I’m also looking forward to integrating into
the community,” he adds.
There are some things, however, that won’t
change. The Town Downhill, a favorite local
event, is held every March and welcomes skiers,
snowboarders, and telemarkers in pro and various recreation categories. “Fat and Baggy” tops
the list of colorful competitions, but feature names
like “pro bump,” shitz n pantz,” and the “steilhung,” help create something of an Olympicsounding event. The top speed so far, reached by
local competitor Josh Daigle, is 76 mph.
The ski area’s manager from 1984-2008, Jim
Sullivan first raced the Town Downhill in 1982.
He’s missed the race only once (in 1993) and has
been on skis an average of 100-plus days a season
for the last 35 years. “And I’ve never had a bad
year,” he says. “It feels like a whole new mountain
each season.”
In addition to racing, Snow King is expanding its terrain park to attract all mountain enthusiasts. “The expansion gives skiers and riders of
all abilities the opportunity to develop their skills
in a spacious, centralized location,” says Ennis.
“We are proud to work closely with the Jackson
Hole Ski and Snowboard Club to support up-andcoming local skiers and riders.”
In his second year as head coach for JH Ski
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43
Jonathan Selkowitz (left); Bob Woodall (torchlight)
Torchlight parades on Snow King are impressive from all over town.
With two new
snowcats for
grooming,
The King
maintains
prime
conditions for
guests and
racers alike.
Gladed tree runs—a Town Hill feature with a future
SKI JACKSON HOLE
and Snowboard Club, Todd Travis lauds
Snow King’s service to the club. “They pretty
much bend over backwards for us,” he says.
“And you just don’t get that anywhere else.”
With two new snowcats for grooming, The
King maintains prime conditions for guests
and racers alike. “It’s one of the best training
venues anywhere,” he adds. “It’s great snow
for training and racing.” Ennis echoes Travis’s
sentiments: “We want to continue our
progress with gains in grooming capabilities
and snowmaking, striving to provide a better
snow experience for skiers and riders.”
Despite the changing times, Snow King
also maintains friendly prices for locals and
visitors. Early season pass prices total $129,
including either a patch or pint. Enjoy $2
pints at The Lounge, the King’s in-house bar,
3-6 p.m daily when you purchase an early
season pass. Day tickets are still an affordable
3 Days Skiing • 4 Nights Lodging • Starting at $269
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44
The Town Square Inns are located in the heart of Jackson Hole,
just minutes from world-renowned skiing at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.
www.townsquareinns.com . Jackson, Wyoming
Reservations 1-800-4-TETONS
option: full-day $41, half $31, and two-hour
$22. If you have to work days, Snow King also
offers a $20 night-skiing pass, beginning at 4
p.m. every Tuesday through Saturday.
Apart from skiing and riding, Snow King
Center is home to the Jackson Hole Moose
Hockey Club, and the valley’s only full-size ice
rink. Backed by a devoted fan base, the “Moose”
often play to sold-out crowds on Friday nights.
Male, female, and co-ed hockey is a popular
pastime at the center and public skating is also
available, both indoors and out.
The resort’s King Tubes Park enters its 11th
season and remains one of the most cherished
family activities in the valley. Situated adjacent
to the base summit lift, the tube ride is a rush
down the barrel of a gun, with guests soaring
down the course at dizzying, yet safe, speeds.
The tube park is open weekdays 2 p.m. to 8
p.m., beginning Dec. 13, but opens at noon on
weekends.
As Jackson Hole continues to grow as a
winter destination, Snow King resort is keeping
pace. An all-inclusive resort with proximity to
activities, nightlife, and adventure, convenience
is the hallmark of the King experience. Snow
King is keeping community at the center of its
future, striking a balance between local loyalties
and destination allure. Neighborhood Pub & Grille
At the base of Snow King Mountain
Fine Whiskeys
17 Draft Beers
Choice Steaks, Fresh Seafood,
Fish & Chips, Burgers
0043
.
3
3
7
.
7
30
N
W
E
ming
le, Wyo
o
H
n
o
acks
ache - J
C
.
S
5
4
6
Jeff Burke is a freelance writer living in Jackson, Wyoming.
skiing & snowboarding
2-hour lift ticket - $22
nightly lodging
hotel & condominium
hockey &
ice skating
“KingTubes”
snow tube park
Looking for
winter fun?
night skiing
Snow King Resort offers
exciting winter recreation
for all ages!
307.733.5200
www.snowkingresort.com
Located in the town of Jackson at Snow King Mountain.
From the town square, take Cache Street south to
Snow King Avenue, turn left and continue to Resort.
restaurant
& lounge
WINTER ACTIVITIES:
skiing, snowboarding, night skiing, terrain park,
King Tubes snow tube park, ice skating, and more!
45
Grand Targhee Resort
Progressive march matched
by local communities
by Brigid Mander
Targhee quietly receives over 500 inches during an average season, but rarely
will you find yourself stuck in a buzz-killing, mind-numbing lift line. Even on the
deepest powder days, the ski hill manages to keep its relaxed vibe, and its lift lines
at a minimum. Maybe that is owed in part to the fact that over here, powder days
are pretty common on what is known as the snowier side of the Tetons. The nearby
towns of Driggs, Victor, and Tetonia, Idaho, help nurture the laid-back feeling that
ski towns risk losing when their slopes become so famous. Locals and visitors alike
revel in the fact that they can stroll up to the chair in the mornings and slide right
on. After all, it’s pretty nice not to have to shower in your coffee and inhale breakfast while running to the lift line, at a full sprint, in pre-dawn light.
A ride up Dreamcatcher, the area’s only quad lift, will bring you to the top of
Fred’s Mountain. Wide-open groomers drop off in all directions, eventually curving back to the base. Powder reserves can usually be found on Mary’s Nipple or
Peaked Peak, which are hiking only, but controlled for avalanches by the ski area.
46
McKoy photos
Viewed from the west, the imposing Teton
Range has a distinctly different feel from the
jagged sight looming on the massif’s eastern
side. The giant peaks appear smoother, more
defined, and even the air, rushing around in a
wide-open sky, seems different. Beneath this
view, sits Grand Targhee Resort, basking in
grandeur, isolation, and most importantly during
winter, deep, deep, powder.
Powder days are pretty common on what is known as the snowier side of the Tetons. Powder reserves can usually be found on Mary’s Nipple or Peaked Peak, which are hiking only. Skiers: Bissell
Hazen, Jeff Leger, Jason Tattersall, and Todd Jones (TGR)
47
™
If you’ve got bigger plans (and the proper gear), you can always stop in at
the patrol shacks for a quick rundown on recent snow activity, stability, and
whether the boundary gates are open at that time.
Compared with the backcountry around Jackson, most of the out-ofbounds at Targhee is smaller—and friendlier—to less-experienced backcountry travelers. But beware: following tracks might bring you down a line
left by one of the many local skiers who think little of a 50-foot air, since
Targhee’s famed backside is the secret haunt of many a professional bigmountain extreme skier. Despite being able to claim itself the proving
grounds of one of the world’s top big-mountain skiers, Sage CattabrigaAlosa, Targhee keeps its mellow, inviting feeling.
With a reputation for some of the most family-friendly terrain in the region, intermediate skiers feel comfortable exploring much of the in-bounds
terrain. The classic Targhee-style run features rolling open-terrain, groomers,
and glades. And let’s be honest, there is pretty much no level of skier who
can’t fully appreciate the good times to be had on a long, smooth, fat (and uncrowded!) groomed run. A day spent lapping Dreamcatcher lift, however, is
definitely enough to tire out even everyday skiers.
The littlest skiers haven’t been shortchanged either; there is a whole section of fun short trails through the woods, like Eye Ball Forest and Wacky
Weasel Way. Grownups have been known to ski through here—even without kids to chaperone. Professional skier Jason
following tracks
Tattersall (who has been
spotted on aforementioned
kids’ trails) sums up a trip might bring you down a line
to Targhee in this way:
“Check out Jackson for the left by one of the many local
hype, then head over to
‘Mom and Pop’ Targhee; skiers who think little of a 50you might just get one of
the best powder days you’ll foot air, since Targhee’s famed
ever have.”
At the end of the day, backside is the secret haunt of
skiers converge at the famous Trap Bar, currently many a professional bigthe only bar at the base.
But that just makes it bet- mountain extreme skier.
ter. Great bar food, beers,
and often live music—any
more than this just makes
après ski too complicated.
But for even more local
flavor, join some of the
ski bums and head down
to Victor or Driggs for
burgers and beers at the
town grills.
The tenacity of all this
mellow, however, is about
to be put to its first big test,
following
the
Teton
County Commission’s approval of an expansion of
base area lodging from 96
beds to 450, and the addition of a new lift up Peaked
Peak, both of which will
see groundbreaking next
spring. The new chairlift
will provide access to 1,000
acres of terrain that is currently used for SnowCat
Adventures, the resort’s
cat-skiing
operation,
spreading out the skiers at
Targhee even more.
Beware:
50
Skiers, from top: Jason Tattersall; Jeff Leger; unknown local
McKoy (2); Woodall (left)
The resort is trying to stay as green as possible in the face of its expansion. The new buildings will be LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certified, and Targhee “is doing every single possible thing
we can to be environmentally sound,” notes Dave Hudacsko, a Targhee
spokesman. Targhee also retains a sustainability director and is a founding
member of the Climate Registry, where businesses voluntarily track and report their greenhouse gas emissions in order to reduce them. Also in the
works, added Hudacsko, are small research projects to see what sort of alternative energies will benefit the resort.
The progressive march of Targhee is matched by its nearest local communities, Victor and Driggs. For years, these areas remained sleepy little
western farm towns, and while they have so far managed to retain their
quaint, under-the-radar feel, they are also at a crossroads for new development. An influx of people to the area has brought new restaurants, music, art
Leon Weston lives the heritage
%.*/9 7).4%2
by Brigid Mander
3%26)#% +./7,%$'%
15!,)49 02/$5#43
Getting onto Leon ‘Slim”
movies and innumerable
Weston’s chairlift is something
press clippings.
that Targhee visitors usually
Even with the inevitable
don’t forget. Smiling from
changes, Targhee retains the
under the brim of his Western
local-hill feeling with its staff,
hat, greeting skiers like long
many of whom are farmers
lost family, he doles out mini
down in the valley in the sumshoulder massages, inquires
mer. People who come from
after your skiing happiness,
far away states to work here
and remembers your name.
figure things out right away,
And so things have gone for
notes Carol Eck, lift supervifour decades, although, acsor and herself a veteran of 15
cording to Slim, who has
years. “We don’t have a problasted through four different
lem with people fittin’ right
resort owners, things have
in,” she says. “It doesn’t take
changed “a whole bunch.”
‘em long to see how things
An Idaho farmer and
work. It’s a great place, and lots
horseman himself, Slim Leon ‘Slim” Weston
of fun.” She and Slim agree the
started running lifts on Targhee’s opening day, best part of their jobs is seeing the people, espein December 1969. The third generation of the cially those who come back year after year.
original families that came are still skiing
As for Slim, he may be getting the travel bug
Targhee, and saying hello to Slim at Dream- himself after greeting people from all over the
catcher. Perhaps the most famous personage at world for 40 years. Although he won’t say how
Targhee now, Slim actually got his nickname much longer he will be at Targhee, for now, you
from Warren Miller when he rode up to the ski can still catch him smiling at the base of Dreamhill on horseback, landing a spot in Miller’s catcher. right on Main Street somehow fits right into the
quiet thoroughfares and one, blinking, traffic light.
Yes, valley farms still irrigate lush crops, cows
low on neighboring ranches, local produce
abounds, and everybody knows everybody else.
But when the snow flies, farmers become skiers,
and ski bums head not across the pass but up to
Targhee, where the friendly rural vibe from their
towns is matched by the mellow ski hill with the
big terrain, nicely tucked away from the hype. Brigid Mander is a writer based in Wilson,
Wyoming.
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Grand Targhee continued...
galleries, different cultures, and businesses supplying an ever-expanding array of options. “Ten
or twenty years ago, living in Victor or Driggs was
like living in the Twilight Zone,” says Sara
Deutsch, a skier and entrepreneur based in Victor.
But now it is totally feasible to live, ski, work, and
have a great time without crossing the pass to
Jackson every day, she adds.
Despite the new businesses and influences, the
towns are still far from being cosmopolitan.
Which, over here, is a good thing. Being able to
get great Thai food or inspired nouveau cuisine
from a chic urban bistro, or buy stylish ski gear
% ,)44,% !6%
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ss
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51
Pinedale, Wyoming Home of White Pine Ski Resort
by Joy Ufford
• Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi
• Free Continental Breakfast
• Free High-Speed Internet
• Refrigerator and microwave in every room
• Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area
307-367-8800
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West Hwy 191 in Pinedale
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Pinedale, WY 82941
Reservations 1-866-995-6343
52
The LODGE
AT PINEDALE
said Mindi Crabb, marketing director for
the Pinedale Tourism Bureau. “And
White Pine is our own wonderful familyfriendly ski area.”
White Pine Resort owners Stuart and
Mary Thompson hold an image in mind
as they painstakingly develop the ski area
into a jewel of the mountains just 10
miles from Pinedale. Stuart, also the resort mountain manager, describes their
endeavors to spotlight the excellent skiing and snowboarding by crafting a welcoming atmosphere reminiscent of “the
old days.”
Part of their snow success is due to
the resort’s base elevation–at 8,400 feet almost a thousand feet higher than Snow
King’s peak, Stuart explained.
“That makes the difference between
our snow and theirs,” Thompson said,
matter-of-factly. “That’s just the way it is.
We have the best skiing for the greatest
part of the year—that’s what White Pine
is all about.”
Although White Pine doesn’t pile up
the snow all at once, what falls at White
Pine is called “cowboy powder” because
it’s easy for anyone to ski. And being
tucked 88 miles away from Jackson Hole
holds advantages, one being that a week
after a snowstorm, skiers can still find
untouched powder at White Pine.
The alpine terrain consists of over 26
trails on Fortification Mountain, with a
summit elevation of 9,500 feet. Two
triple-chairs transport riders to both the summit
and the beginner and intermediate trails. A wide
variety of beginner-through-expert runs for
alpine skiers, telemarkers, and snowboarders
await guests. There are groomed trails as well as
bump and powder runs.
Atop the resort’s Fortification Mountain is a
contemplative overlook for ogling the rest of the
world. Those who take in the summit can view
Fremont Lake (a prime ice-fishing body), the
Wind River Range and the Continental Divide
(with its #1-rated 600-mile snowmobile trail system), and the Wyoming and Gros Ventre mountains, home to hundreds of miles of trails for
skiing, wildlife watching, or snowmobiling.
Just outside the lodge runs part of an extensive and free 60-kilometer cross-country trail system that loops along groomed routes in and out of
the resort and affords breathtaking views of the
Wind River Range. “These are some of Wyoming’s
best cross-country trails,” noted Thompson.
“They wind through the mountains in a beautiful, natural setting.”
Head into Pinedale for more dining and shopping. Catch a movie or visit one of the many special small-town events, whether in Pinedale or
Woodall
Imagine Wyoming’s old-time mountain
men like Jim Bridger or William Sublette
waking after a 250-year sleep, breaking trail
down the mountainside through deep snowdrifts and finding themselves on the outskirts of Pinedale.
They’d probably whoop it up after discovering that their old stomping ground on
the vast mountain-ringed sagebrush plain in
the early 1800s is today a small, old-fashioned classic Western town.
Modern visitors to the heart of the
Upper Green River Valley will feel just as festive. Pinedale’s unique character, ranching
lifestyle, and scenic splendor remain entrenched in what we call “Mountain Man
Country.” In spite of inevitable growth in
both population and nearby energy industries, Pinedale—and the surrounding Sublette County—are among those increasingly
rare places that have kept their Western
identity and rural roots intact.
Where else but in Pinedale would you
find that the local landmark is a mural of
cows painted on a downtown building,
then learn that the beautiful new Sublette
County Visitor Center next door was
specifically designed to preserve that
larger-than-life artwork?
Outside, the new visitor center is dominated by an oversized “mountain man”
cast in bronze, easily spotted by those seeking more information for their visit to
Pinedale, the Upper Green River Valley,
Jeff Leger
and Hoback Basin.
Winter in the Pinedale region hints at an
Mountain men and their colorful history are
showcased inside, along with displays on wildlife, inner sense of isolation, but not loneliness, a sense
local history, trapping, snowmobiling, skiing, fish- of personal adventure that isn’t defeating. Winter
ing, hunting, the arts, and backcountry explo- is long enough, cold enough, and gorgeous
enough to convert anyone into a modern-day
ration.
That’s in part because Pinedale and surround- mountain man or woman.
The wintry diamond in the rough, so to
ing communities carry on in their old-fashioned
ways as did those rugged mountain men, but with speak, is White Pine Ski Resort, which is really
more creature comforts when it comes to lodging, anything but rough.
“There are so many gorgeous places here,”
dining, shopping, and having good fun.
farther afield in Boulder, Daniel, Big Piney, Marbleton, or Bondurant. A variety of entertainment
awaits explorers who will find “all the civilization
you need” in town.
In early December, check out the Wreath and
Chocolate auction at the Museum of the Mountain Man (closed in winter except by advance
reservations). Downtown Pinedale, of course,
turns festive during the holidays with a lighted
Christmas parade, tree-lighting ceremony and
caroling, plus a “parade of homes” decorated inside and out.
Late December will see the Sonny Korfanta
Giant Slalom, the “One-Lunger,” with vintage
snowmachine races, the heartwarming “Celebration on Ice,” and more hometown fun. More info.
at www.pinedaleonline.com/snowexplorers.
Back at White Pine, the old year fades into
the new every Dec. 31 with a nighttime torchlight
parade down the mountain. A chili feed helps fuel
the excitement and warm the belly. Visit the website: www.whitepineski.com.
Mountain men of old would surely appreciate
the Green River Classic, where sled dog mushers
from around the country gather to test their mettle and that of their exuberant canines. Both 6and 12-dog teams are piloted around a snowy
course in nearby Cora, Wyoming, on January 34, 2009. For more info. go to www.greenriverclassic.com
The Green River Classic is a perfect warmup
for the big one, though, the International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race, set for February
2-3 this year. If you’re lucky enough to be in the
area for this regional event, you can cheer on
competitors and join in the festivities. This reallife event covers 500-plus miles in 11 days and
highlights the small welcoming towns of Sublette
and neighboring counties.
White Pine comes through again in February
by hosting the Wyoming Senior Winter Games,
featuring downhill and cross country skiing, a
rifle biathlon, hockey, and more for competitors
50 and over. But the fun is for spectators of all
ages. The games are slated for February 6-15 this
year. For more info. go to www.wyswintergames.com
By March, the snow is melting in downtown
Pinedale, but elsewhere it’s time for more ice fishing derbies, special ski events, and community
“cabin fever” celebrations.
There are also ice-fishing derbies at Fremont
Lake, skating and hockey at the Pinedale Ice Rink,
Bondurant’s Mountain West Racing Sno-Cross
extravaganza, cross-country and downhill ski
contests for young and old, and special smalltown, big-fun community events. To get the upto-the-minute insight, go to Mountain
ManCountry.com.
Would those old-time mountain men be
whooping it up if they arrived in Pinedale today?
You can bet your long johns they would! Writer Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where
she helps feed cows, horses, and elk all winter. She
is also a part-time writer for the Sublette Examiner
in Pinedale.
53
Mountain Guides
Bill Briggs
Mason Cassidy and Bissell Hazen on Spalding Peak
My most memorable time guiding was back in
the late ‘70s with a group of three dozen Japanese
that were skiing around the western United States.
They had a miserable time at all the ski areas. It was
a bad year, miserable skiing. But it was a planned
vacation and they couldn’t change anything. So the
trip organizer came to me and said, “What can we
do with these people?” and I said we’d take ‘em up
on the Pass and get some good snow. He said, “Well,
they will follow you until you make a mistake, and
then I can’t predict what’s gonna happen.” I told him
that was fine. You can’t go wrong on Teton Pass!
54
We loaded them up in vans and took ‘em up to
the Pass. And they were absolutely silent. They didn’t understand English anyway, and didn’t speak
English, so we didn’t even try to get conversation
going. I’m running shuttle, just driving. Other
guides are guiding and they go out.
The first ones I pick up are over on the far side
at Coal Creek, and they’re coming out and they’re
jabbering like crazy. They get in the vehicle and it’s
crowded—they are really jammed together. We
start going back up the Pass and they start singing
John Denver songs in English! Ahhhh!
Woodall (Briggs); McKoy (ski, climb)
Mountain guides experience their environment with
an uncanny depth of feeling.
They seem to possess a sixth
sense and have eyes in the
backs of their heads. They’ve
learned to see the world with
a clarity and perception that
focuses on success and safety.
That’s why we hire them,
especially when success necessitates some failure, too.
We asked a few of Jackson
Hole’s top mountain guides
to tell us some stories. Stories that illustrate something
poignant about guiding—
the day’s beauty, ugliness, or
otherwise unusual nature;
mishaps or danger; joy or
surprise; the quality of skiing,
anything unique about a winter
mountaineering experience.
We got some good ones.
They entertain, illustrate,
educate, reveal historical
perspective—all the things
we hoped they’d do. Read
them and gain some insight
into the mountaineering life.
Ushers of
the fantastic
Bill Briggs, recently inducted into
the Skiing Hall of Fame, is perhaps best
known for the first ski descent of the
Grand Teton in 1971. His accomplishments don’t stop there, though.
I get them up to the top of the Pass and now I
have to come back down this side to pick up the
next group. It’s a race back and forth picking them
up, and they’re all having a wonderful time. One
fellow was a ski instructor from Japan, and he had
gone with his wife in the slower group. After his
first run he said, “Could I move up into the other
group now? They guide my wife very well!” We
passed muster with him. Did we ever!
They had a wonderful time, so we get back
and have a student card we have everybody fill out
with a success that they had. Well, it was all in
Japanese, so I had to go to the tour leader and
have him translate it. For that first group, it said of
their guide, “John is a very good human being!” It
“We start going back
up the Pass and they start
singing John Denver
songs in English! Ahhhh!”
Br iggs’s Résumé
was the first time they’d been treated as human
beings in this country!
That was the most memorable one—it went
so well. We didn’t have grooming in those days
and Teton Pass was, well, it is still, excellent.
Another time we had a group of executives
from Carrier, the air conditioning company. The
higher ups had warned them not to go skiing because conditions were bad. I think the Village was
closed. They were afraid someone might get hurt
and then it would destroy the week’s meetings.
They had the Snow King Ski Patrol do a death and
danger lecture! That didn’t help out the situation
at all, so I gave ‘em a followup reading from my
ski school manual on self determinism, saying essentially that a person is responsible for his own
safety.
These are executives and, oh boy, they
thought that was great. They jumped up and
headed for the vehicles, all ready to go. And their
higher-ups were still trying to stop ‘em, trying to
talk ‘em out of it! One fellow says, “Okay, but you
have to get me a car to bring me back ahead of the
others.” Fine, we’ll arrange that. No problem.
So we take ‘em up skiing, ski ‘em down—and
it was terrible. It was not good snow, but they had
a great time. The one fellow that needed a car, we
had a Subaru for him. And he was totally offended
because it was not a limousine! The only car for
him was a limousine! The other guys thought that
this was great! They were patting me on the back!
I got fired at the Village, a misunderstanding
basically, but anyway I got fired, so the question
was: What to do? Betty Woolsey said, “Well, why
1955
1955
1956
First to ski the Bugaboos, solo
Full-certified ski instructor
Ski School Director, Sugarloaf, Maine
57-60 Owner/Director ski school, Suicide 6, Vermont
Crystal Wright, southern Tetons
don’t you come guide with my clients,” her dudes,
which she takes up on the Pass. So I did. I did that,
and also started teaching for Bill Ashley at Snow
King.
I went up with Betty, and that was a beautiful
treat ‘cause she’d take the group around to where
the best snow was—she knew the Pass better than
anybody. We’d go around to different places, every
day a new place to ski, with wonderful snow. Betty
would use me as an example for her clients as to
how to improve their skiing. Well, I don’t think I
improved anyone’s skiing, but I had a wonderful
time showing off! Betty would say, “Bill, go ski
that,” and everyone would say, “That’s wonderful!”
It was a wonderful time.
I essentially didn’t make any money out of the
whole thing, but I did get a personal showing of
where was the best snow on a particular day,
where to avoid the avalanches, all of the backcountry type of stuff, from Betty Woolsey. Okay?
That was a wonderful treat.
One of the best, most-memorable times on
that was meeting Fritz Wiesner, a great mountain
climber. I’d done some of his rock climbing routes
in the East, and he’d done many routes in Europe
before he came to this country. He was on an attempt to climb K2 in the late ‘30s and had climbed
in the Tetons and all around the West. It was wonderful to meet him. We were up at the top of Shivers and going over to Olympic, and somebody had
left something in the car. Fritz turned around to
1958
Led 100-mile ski traverse from Bugaboos to Rodgers Pass, BC
59-82 Exum mountain guide
1961
1962
1966
1967
1967
1968
1971
1973
1976
Second ski descent, Mt Rainier
Founding Scientologist
Ski guide, Teton Pass
Owner/Director, Great American Ski School, Snow King
Second ski descent, Buck Mt
First descent, Middle Teton & Mt Moran
First descent, Grand Teton
Mt Owen Descent
Wrote and published Skier's Manual
1979
Wrote and published Ski Dictionary
1981
Ski area manager, Snow King
1979
Co-Founder Stagecoach Band
1980s Co-founder, American Mountain Guide Association
1993
Co-founder, Jackson Hole Hoot
2003
Inducted into Intermountain Ski Hall Of Fame
2006
International Skiing History Assoc. Special Ski Song Award
2005
2006
2009
Wrote and published Beginner-Intermediate Rhythmics , DVD
Ski Songs From the Dartmouth Era, song book and CD
Inducted into Skiing Hall of Fame
get it—old man goes back to get it and catches
back up with us. Now, the stamina of this guy, at
his age, was wonderful. And he did it just for fun.
A remarkable thing. Then we go ski with him and
he can ski anything. And strong, at that age! It was
inspiring to me. He came up with one of the best
philosophies for doing risky things, which he
called “calculated risk.” That was something he
wrote about and came up with the idea on it, and
I had based what I had done on it. And then to be
able to go ski with the guy… 2 0 0 9 J AC KS O N H O L E S K I E R
55
Doug Workman
56
“I keep the rope handy, but
clearly am not going to need it.
With the climbing behind us,
Simone is in his element, and
for the time being it is easy to
forget who is the client and
who is the guide.”
The Grand Teton’s Ford Couloir (center of photo),
“...a 1,500-foot-long, 52-degree funnel that ends
with a 2,000-foot drop-off.”
Doug Workman is a mountain
guide in the Tetons for Jackson Hole
Mountain Guides and High Mountain
Helicopter Skiing and in Alaska for
Valdez Heli Ski Guides.
Bob Woodall (Grand); Tim Nickles (Workman)
Almost two years from the day we
met, Simone Blei and I sit atop the Ford
Couloir, about 100 feet shy of the Grand
Teton’s 13,770-foot summit. Huddled in
our down coats, we wait for the sun to
soften the snow, which we spent the last
six hours climbing. My eyes scan from Simone, sitting silently, to the summit. What
we came for—the Ford—is now below us,
but the summit still has its draw. Simone
knows what I am thinking but doesn't
share my summit fever. "Relax, Doug,” the
Milano instructs. “The skiing looks like
shit up there. This is the Italian summit."
Blei is among a growing breed of ski
clients capable of descending runs that,
until recently, were considered off-limits
to recreational skiers. Years of skiing with
guides in the Alps, Chugach, and Tetons
have prepared Simone for some of the
world’s most coveted descents. In between
bouts with his office desk in Milan, he
hopes to ski runs like the Marinelli
Couloir on the Monta Rosa—a 6,600-foot,
45-degree face riddled with crevasses—
and the Ford Couloir on the Grand Teton.
In fact, his tick list could be mistaken for
my own.
Simone knows that such runs must be
skied in perfect conditions, so he hires
guides who track conditions and study stability while he plans marketing campaigns
and monitors consumer indices. When the
time is right, Simone grabs his skis and
goes. He leaves his job and girlfriend behind—always somewhat unsure if they
will be there upon his return—and heads
for the mountains.
Despite his ambition, Simone still
needs some prodding from time to time.
So, letting him rest a moment longer, I
throw my skis over my shoulder and begin
plodding to the top, slowly at first, to give
him time to settle into the idea that we are
not in Italy. We’re gonna ski from the top.
On the summit, Simone admits that
this one was an ass-kicker. In fact, he concedes that there was a point, while slogging up the boot-deep, 50-degree snow in
the Ford, that he was unsure if he would
make it. Below us is a 1,500-foot-long, 52degree funnel that ends with a 2,000-foot
drop-off. While Simone had his doubts on
the ascent, he clicks into his K2s with complete confidence.
Off the top, I suggest Simone make
some warmup turns. He smiles confidently,
humoring me with a couple gentle arcs before heading for the Ford’s steeper right
flank. I keep the rope handy, but clearly am
not going to need it. With the climbing behind us, Simone is in his element, and for
the time being it is easy to forget who is the
client and who is the guide. Diane Verna
Jeff Jung
Every year in May we
with, but rain on a ski trip
take a group of high school
can really dampen the spirseniors from Colorado
its. Especially high school
Academy on a school-sponspirits. So we built a fire in
sored camping and skiing
the snow and taught the stutrip up Teton Canyon. The
dents how to stay warm and
treks combine education
dry despite the weather. We
and experience. These indemonstrated how layering
trepid youngsters shoulder
one’s clothing and huddling
their heavy backpacks filled
under a tarp can help keep
with winter camping gear,
one comfortable. However,
Diane Verna has been an outdoor
food, skis, and boots, and
by the second day of rain the
educator for over two decades. She and
hike up the canyon through
students were not buying the
her husband own and operate Renvariable weather and snow
fun factor and we were faced
dezvous Backcountry Tours, based in
conditions until we hit the
with
a Mutiny on the Bounty
Alta, Wyoming. When not working
snow line. We then change
situation.
One student actushe likes to ski, bike, climb, and surf as
into ski boots, put climbing
ally
tried
to
bribe us, saying,
much as possible.
skins on our skis, and tour
“How much would it cost for
seven miles into Alaska
us to pack up right now and
Basin. There we pitch our tents and create a small hike out of here tonight?”
village in the wilderness.
They hung in there, though, and once we got
One year, a change in the weather tried the back to Driggs, after hot showers and pizza, the
mettle of these young skiers. We had had a perfect students were beaming from ear to ear from the
day of skiing corn snow from Mt. Meek Pass below experience. They had accomplished something
the rock face of Buck Mountain, and from Sheep’s that they never thought they could and had perseStep down to our camp, with no other ski lines in vered even when they wanted to give up.
sight but our own. But then the sunny skies
As instructors, we derive a great amount of
clouded over and it began snowing. Unfortunately, pleasure from watching folks move beyond a comwhat was falling as snow a few hundred feet above fort zone, learn new skills, achieve goals, and have
us was rain at our camp.
an experience that will last with them for a lifeNow, rain is never all that much fun to deal time. It’s why we do what we do! w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m
WILSON
BACKCOUNTRY
SPORTS
Telemark & Randonee Equipment
Garmont & Scarpa Tele Boots
Black Diamond Equipment
K2 Telemark Dealer
Fritschi Bindings
Dynafit
Located in downtown Wilson at the base of Teton Pass
Your Backcountry Ski Headquarters
RENTALS • SALES • SERVICE
733-5228
WilsonBackcountry.com
57
When Lynne Wolfe isn’t ski guiding for Rendezvous Ski Tours in the
winter, she is teaching avalanche
courses or editing The Avalanche Review. During the summer she is a
mountain guide for Exum Mountain
Guides in the Tetons.
Some of my best ski memories seem to repeat themselves yearly—and with the same
group of clients, no less. These six ladies, all
Jackson locals, can really ski. They are strong,
love the powder, and don’t mind breaking trail
when the conditions get really deep.
On our first excursion together, we toured
into the Plummer Yurt on the western slope of
the Tetons. We rounded out our arrival day by
skiing deep powder on several short lines near
the yurt. It was great skiing, but the next day—
after a cozy and restful night in the yurt—was
truly memorable.
We started with a 1,600-foot shot down into
Game Creek. Then, after a spectacular milelong tour up the knife-edged Rhodesia Ridge,
we stood above a 2,000-foot shot into a little-
Plummer Yurt
58
Hannah Horigan
traveled fork of Game Creek. A bit of wind had
blown on top of the old surface hoar, so I poked
around in the snow a good amount before deciding that we were good to go.
One at a time, my ladies dropped into the
first shot of shady, steep powder. Hoots and
whistles followed in their wakes, as I watched
carefully from my lookout below. The shot
seemed to go on forever, and we finally returned
to the yurt under a pink sky.
Now, four years later and two more yurt
trips past, we still remember that Rhodesia shot
as a ‘best-ever.’ We’ll see what this year’s Baldy
Knoll trip brings—hopefully the steep, deep,
and stable. But regardless of conditions, it’ll be
memorable. Molly Loomis (Wolfe); McKoy (ski, yurt, Pistono); Jacques Parker (art)
Lynne Wolfe
Lynsey Dyer
Jess McMillan
Jay Pistono
Untracked!
I was working with an Army Special Forces
unit on their winter training. What they lack in
ski ability, they make up for in persistence. They
do some pretty gnarly stuff.
The Teton Crest Trail is a big thing to bite off.
We were coming over Hurricane Pass, heading
down the South Fork of Cascade Canyon, when I
Personalized day tours a nd
catered hut trips in the
serenity of the Teton backcou ntry
“I protested once again,
saying, ‘Someone is going
to die here.’ He held his
ground, though.”
In summer, Jay Pistono guides
fishing for Westbank Anglers. In winter he splits his time between Jackson
Hole Mountain Guides and his advocacy position, Teton Pass Ambassador.
ClimbingSkinsDirect.com
pulled the commanding officer aside to tell him
that we needed to stay on the west side of the
stream. Pretty soon we would run out of snow
bridges and get pushed up against the northwest
ridge of the Grand. Then we’d be stuck, because it
turns into a gorge. It was springtime, so the creek
was gnarly.
He said, “Oh, this will be a perfect military
challenge.”
I said, “It’s crazy. I don’t want to cross that
thing.”
But he decided to surprise his men with the
obstacle. Every day he set a challenge. The day before, he commanded, “You need to break through,
up to that ridge, within twenty minutes!” So they
would take turns breaking trail, go as fast as they
could, and do it. No matter how difficult.
I protested once again, saying, “Someone is
going to die here.” He held his ground, though,
and we went across the last snow bridge and skied
towards the void.
I showed them how to set up a Tyrolean traverse. The water was upper-chest deep and raging, but they kept trying. It was the gnarliest
human thing I’ve ever seen.
Finally, one guy made it across. It was like
watching an action hero. I would have bet a million-to-one against it. The place they had chosen
was not for the timid.
Once across, he got the Tyrolean going, got all
their skis and everything across; it took a long
877.754.4887 www.SkiTheTetons.com
time, but they did it. They made harnesses with
their military webbing. We had set up a retrievable Tyrolean and they were psyched to learn that.
They’re not great skiers, but they would cross
this amazing terrain with heavy packs. You just
didn’t hear any complains. They would fall 40 times
just getting down a short slope. They would help
each other up, super into the team concept, reluctant to give up any weight. I was so impressed. Jacques Parker, on his drawings—”As a
member of the 10th during World War II, I had
the unique opportunity (whenever possible) to
capture on paper the scenes as they occurred…the villages, children, people, the
Alpini and partisans we worked with; the combat in those mountains. Sixty original illustrations, many with written accounts of the scene,
make up my exhibit, “A Mountaineer’s Dream.”
After the war, I continued my art and enjoyed working with Betty Woolsey on a scene
for a Jackson Hole ad in SKI magazine.
For more information on “A Mountaineer’s
Dream,”contactJacquesParkerat212-243-6416.
GREAT SKINS
GREAT PRICES
59
Eric Henderson
Eric Henderson is a certified
AMGA ski mountaineering guide and
Level Three PSIA telemark instructor,
the head guide for Jackson Hole Alpine
Guides, and the operations director for
Valdez Heli Ski Guides. A sponsored
athlete for Karhu, Scarpa, and G3, he
has been on ski-mountaineering expeditions to Everest and China's Altai
Mountains and skied many notable
lines in Alaska, B.C., and the Tetons,
including the only freeheel descent of
the Grand Teton's Otter Body.
Unknown skier
Eric Henderson
60
us. So to be out there, setting the charge ourselves, on the anniversary of the day he perished—it’s something that he would’ve been
proud of.
A lot of us alpine guides feel like we are
stewards of the backcountry, in the sense that
we have a good pulse on the snowpack and a
good pulse on the community at large.
Clients trust their guides to take them to a
safe place, one that also promises good snow.
But, there is a funny saying: “What do condoms and ski guides have in common? It’s
safer with, but more fun without!” So I never
put myself on a higher pedestal than my
clients and I always make sure I’m grounded
with them. I have education and experience
with guiding, but I’m no better than anyone
else out there. If you’re skiing with me, we’re
having fun from the moment we click in to
the moment we finish, and that’s usually at
the bar.
Opening Powder 8 Face is always a highlight for me as a guide. It’s like one
of those waves where you paddle
out and you don’t really know
how big it’s going to be until
you’re looking up at that first set
rolling in. On January 9, 2008, we
had 14 inches overnight and a
slabbing layer that was not being
very reactive. We left the upper elevations—Cody, Four Shadows—
to the public skiers and powered
right out to Powder 8 Face. It’s
such a big face and there’s so
much assessment that goes into it:
Wind, new temperature. How
Jeff Leger
McKoy (ski); Dave Barnett (Henderson); Woodall (snowboard); Julie Zell (Weeks)
“This particular day, it was
like riding the perfect tube;
there was just glassy, glassy,
waist-deep, light-density
powder; seeing the public on
our tails, but knowing we
were going to get two laps on
that blank canvass.”
One of my favorite all-time days is April 3: Coombs Day.
“Cody for Coombs” is a new slogan, and for two years now,
with clients, we’ve enjoyed some of the best, light-density
spring powder skiing on Cody Peak on that day. We’ve been
able to get out ahead of the public, open up Powder 8 Face,
and then make our way to No Name Face. The public is out
there charging too, and everybody having strong legs in the
late spring—we could feel Coombs’s presence among us.
One morning was cold, crisp—great conditions: fat
sloughs, but low-to-moderate hazard. Ideal Teton big-line
skiing, pretty much exactly how Dougie would have wanted
it. He was always the person who set the charge for a lot of
much is the sun going to affect it? Did the
wind slab it?
This particular day it was like riding the
perfect tube; glassy, waist-deep, light-density
powder; seeing the public on our tails, but
knowing we were going to get two laps on
that blank canvass. Assessing it as you climb,
telling your clients to space out, one at a time,
give safe distances. Dig a pit. To open a slope
like that is what keeps me doing what I do.
Because the clients get such a charge out of
it, and I get such a charge out it. Crystal Wright
Jamie Weeks
For the past 10 years I’ve inThere’s a whole new
structed and guided a family that
learning curve to go
has become close, and with
through: hiking in deep
whom I’ve had so many great
snow, not falling in the
times. We’ve skied in Jackson
flat spots—so many difHole and Alaska. We’ve shared
ferent things to consider
100s of lunches. They even threw
as a guide.
me a surprise party at their
After a few trips
Teton Village house and invited
down Rock Springs and
all my friends. I taught them
Four Pines, we finally
how to fish on a six-day trip in
got the bluebird day and
Idaho. We’ve been to a lot of Red
stable snowpack that I
Socks-Yankee games. We have a
needed to take them up
relationship.
Cody Peak to ski Four
Jamie Weeks, seen here with Steve
I began teaching the father
Shadows, No Shadows,
and Ruben Johnson, guides for the
and son, Steve and Ruben Johnand Powder 8 Face.
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and
son, through an odd circumThen, last winter, I fiTogwotee Snowcat Guides (lead
stance. Steve took the lessons he
nally
traversed them out
guide) in winter, and in spring for
originally had purchased for his
to
No
Name Face. For a
Valdez Heli Ski Guides in Alaska. He
wife and daughter after 11-yearsnowboarder, it’s not
is a snowboard-products designer
old Emma broke her wrist 30easy to get out there.
and tester for K2 Snowboards and a
class-five white-water guide.
minutes into our first lesson. I still
That was one of my
get blamed for that to this day.
proudest moments—
Over the last ten years—while I grew as an in- after 10 years of riding with these guys, to watch
structor, became an alpine guide, began guiding them arcing beautiful turns down No Name Face.
Ten years of work went into those turns, on my part
and theirs. It made a huge circle complete.
There were bad days, too: bitter cold, wind, no
snow, bad snow, sometimes too much powder, and
sometimes at those Red Socks-Yankee games!
I don’t think you can have a relationship like
this at any other mountain. The terrain progression
they’ve accomplished at Jackson Hole could not
have happened anywhere else in the country. And
after 10 years of that, the Johnsons are close to
being family. Cisco Oldani
“But Ruben had eight-yearold needs: animal trail
jumps, and hot chocolate
with ungodly amounts of
whipped cream.”
heli-skiing in Valdez, Alaska, and became the lead
guide at Togwotee Snow Cats at the north end of
Jackson Hole—Steve and Ruben continued to
grow as snowboarders. They hired me on their annual trips to Jackson Hole, improved their skills,
and expanded their comfort on the steeps to a
point where I felt very comfortable taking them to
Valdez, Alaska, the most extreme place I guide.
Most of their progression came from runs like
Tower Three, the Alta Chutes, and the Hobacks.
And when the backcountry opened, they had
gained the skills to be out there, too. But as any
snowboarder in the valley knows, being in the
backcountry on a snowboard can be very difficult.
No Name Peak
61
Kent McBride (left); Greg Collins (right); McKoy (bottom)
Greg Collins
Greg Collins, a mountain guide
and avalanche educator based in Victor, Idaho, has been climbing in the
Tetons since 1976. He has summitted
the Grand Teton 260 times, by 30 different routes. He loves to blend skiing
and climbing, and has skied from all
the major summits in the range.
“World Cup and
Olympic slalom skier
Arne Hardenberg
single-pitched a sunsoftened Sliver
Couloir with gatebashing quickness.
Later, from our igloo
camp, we made a
nerve wracking hardpack descent of the
Middle Teton's
Chouinard Couloir.”
Generations of skiers have used Jackson
Hole's towering mountains to advance the sport
of ski mountaineering. Skiing on the tracks of our
predecessors, we’ve seen our ski runs grow
smoother, speedier, and safer. Evolving equipment, fitness, tactics—and, recently, ski guides—
have allowed remarkable runs in technical terrain
after arduous climbs.
What will the signatures of the next generation
of Teton ski mountaineering freeriders look like?
As a guide and avalanche educator I am honored to help, if only in a small way, advance Teton
powder mountaineering. For more than 15 years
I have taught and led seasoned ski-area schralpers
looking to advance their backcountry awareness
in the classrooms, snowpits, couloirs, and rappels
of the Tetons.
Some memorable guided classes include the
American Avalanche Institute Level II course
when Travis Rice and Bryan Iguchi ripped down
Nez Perce's West Hourglass Couloir, riding rodeo,
in the last light of a November day. And an hour
later sparks from their edges illuminated the night
as we bounced from rock to rock in the shallow
snow of Garnet Canyon.
Then there was Exum Mountain Guides Level
III class when World Cup and Olympic slalom
skier Arne Hardenberg single-pitched a sun-softened Sliver Couloir with gate-bashing quickness.
Later, from our igloo camp, we made a nerve
wracking hard-pack descent of the Middle Teton's
Chouinard Couloir.
This past summer, Exum guide Kent McBride
invited me to help lead and photograph a ski descent of the Grand. Our client, Kevin Learned, 17,
had already mastered the ways of the Jackson
Hole Mountain Resort. Kevin is a young freeride
team coach from Killington, Vermont, and he and
Kent had just skied the Middle Teton's Northwest
Couloir. Kevin has now, already, skied and roped
his way down two of the Tetons’ highest peaks.
On the other end of the age spectrum, Jan
62
Dan Helmstrader summits the Grand Teton.
Grudziak, a 55-yearold surgeon from Pittsburg, grew up skiing
the lifts of Eastern Europe. Last season his
wife bought him a
present from hell,
when after five days of skiing the local ski resorts,
she booked him a Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
trip up Mt. Albright in Grand Teton National
Park. Jan was tired; but the beauty of the national
park kept him trudging up the mountain. Four
thousand feet of untracked snow revitalized him
on the descent.
Several years ago, I met young Dan Helmstrader climbing above Teton Pass. As we skied
Glory Slide a few times that day, I realized that he
was going to be a core climber and skier. But he
was living out of his vehicle and was poorly
equipped, so I lent him a shovel and gave him an
old Pieps avalanche transceiver.
Two seasons later I found that old yellow
beeper tacked to a board at the Jackson Hole
Mountain Guides office. His note thanked me for
the gear and asked me to guide him on a climb
and ski of the Grand Teton.
We climbed and skied the Grand later that
April in artistic precision. Conditions were full
and excellent. The thick snowpack yielded a stable, dense carpet of snow. Easy skinning and a little ski cramponing brought us to Jackson Hole
Mountain Guides Corbet High Camp under the
Grand’s Southeast Face. The next morning we set
out on the climb. The mountain was cold and
quiet. Avalanche hazard was low. The waterfall ice
in the Chevy Couloir was wide. On the summit
we looked out over all the
snow-covered
mountains,
clicked into our bindings and
skied.
Since our run down the
Ford and Stettner couloirs
three seasons ago, Dan has
gone on to solo the route and
become one of the most active
and seasoned ski mountaineers
on the continent. Some of his
recent ski runs are web-posted
on www.turns-all-year.com.
His remarkable climbs and skis
include runs down Mt. Rainier,
Mt. Robson, Mt. Hood, and
Mt. Moran, among many other
peaks. When other skiers
thought conditions were too
difficult, Dan went ahead and
skied—mostly solo.
Even though as Teton ski
guides we break the trail, assess
the snowpack, lead the climbing pitches, and teach awareness, we often learn as much as
we teach. I for one can't wait to
see where this newfound
knowledge will lead. World Cup and Olympic skier
Tommy Moe, southern Tetons
Stephen Koch (right); Holt Condren (left)
Stephen Koch
Stephen Koch is a senior guide
with Exum Mountain Guides, founder
and president of the Avalanche Awareness Foundation, a realtor with Art
Hazen Real Estate LLC, and a sponsored athlete who loves turning people
on to fun and challenging adventures,
from the Tetons to Tibet.
Last summer, on June 11, I attempted to climb
and snowboard the Grand Teton on the 19th anniversary of my first snowboard descent of the
peak with Tom Turiano and Andy Matz. Tom, my
good friend and fellow guide, and 63-year-old
Yves DesGouttes, a client and friend, and I were
particularly excited to be up there together on the
anniversary.
It hadn’t stopped snowing all spring, and here
we were still experiencing storms halfway into
June. But we decided to head up anyway because
it was the only time our schedules allowed. The
unruly weather prevented safe passage to the
Lower Saddle on the Grand, but through the
kindness of some fellow guides, we spent the night
at the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides camp, descended the next morning in high winds, and
reached town under very blustery conditions.
“As Yves prepared for his
first turn, I sent him positive
energy and strength.”
Three-and-a-half weeks later, the next opportunity Yves and I had to climb and ski together,
we chose to tackle Moran’s Skillet Glacier, another
classic Teton route on Yves’s wish list. Moran’s
massive face loomed before us as we sped across
Jackson Lake on the chartered motorboat. We
were filled with excitement for the adventure that
lay ahead.
Stepping off the bow of the boat, we were immediately challenged to uncover the vague route
through the tangled forest. After a couple of hours
we had negotiated the worst of it and were making good progress towards our camp, a beautiful
exposed ridge high on the south side of the Skillet’s pan. We packed light, carrying only sleeping
bags, bivy sacs, a stove, fuel, and food. We reached
our camp in the evening, ate, and went to sleep.
Yves DesGouttes, Skillet Glacier
We rose early the next morning, and laid
into the corn snow unroped, crampons and ice
axe giving good purchase. The freezing temps
made for fast climbing. Near the top of the route,
the runnel wasn’t as big as it gets later in the year,
and I thought we could ride across it. We
climbed up into the crux, with the face falling
away beneath us past a couple of steep sections at
the top of the handle.
On the flat and expansive summit we enjoyed
the view. The Cathedral Group looks pretty small
from that far north in the range.
I had skied with Yves before and was confident he could handle this descent. As a guide, it is
my job to know my client’s ability, especially on
an exposed and consequential big mountain like
Moran. I reiterated the importance of being in
control, because we were not warmed up and the
beginning section is the critical spot, where a
flubbed turn would likely send the careless alpinist cartwheeling to his death.
As Yves prepared for his first turn, I sent him
positive energy and strength. He made his first
turn and was “on it.” I breathed a sigh of relief and
started down after him, enjoying the steep and exposed turns as we leapfrogged our way down.
The runnel was crossable without too much
trouble, which is not always the case. Later in the
year it grows unridable and more challenging. You
have to remove boards, put on crampons, and
climb across the runnel.
But not that day!
It’s magnificent to be descending the Skillet
Glacier, a classic and beautiful line with a commanding view of Jackson Lake. I watched as
Yves gracefully turned towards a rollover that
had me thinking he would continue right into
Jackson Lake!
I like knowing that the snow I am making
turns on will melt and feed Jackson Lake, then the
Snake River, and eventually the hot shower that
beats against my head as I fondly reminisce about
the turns I made with Yves that fine summer
morning down the Skillet. Experience the finest in
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63
Teton Pass Ambassador
Jay Pistono
Skier: Nate Siegler
W
Working
for the U.S. Forest Service and Friends of Pathways as an
advocate of skier & snowboarder safety, pet
control, and a liaison between winter backcountry
users and public agencies, Teton Pass Ambassador Jay Pistono
is stoked on how things are going.
Then, at least, you look
smarter.”
Another big one: Be ready to jump
in that car. Don’t make the driver wait. It’s inconsiderate—and it’s dangerous!
“Last year this poor lady, a commuter at the end of her
long workday, had to stop behind someone picking up hitchhikers who
Sunrise and a setting moon play on Glory Bowl and Little Tuckerman’s on Teton Pass.
64
McKoy photos
“Most of the contacts I have are positive,” he says. “People I talk to
about their pets, the kids I talk to about how they ski to keep it safe for
everybody else—not jumping in behind people on big days, stuff like
that—people are pretty open to, pretty receptive.”
His first priority, though, is providing a liaison between highway workers and skiers, giving a voice to the highway patrol, the sheriff ’s deputies,
and the plow drivers.
“They were pretty happy with us last winter,”
he notes, relieved. “People tend to have a knee-jerk
reaction to those guys, but they’re not up there to
bust us. They’ve got a job to do.”
That job is to keep the public safe, and the ambassador would like to see skiers consider that at
all times, to use common sense and to think for
themselves.
“If your dog doesn’t pay attention to cars, keep
it on a leash when you’re walking up the road,” he
suggests. “If it’s bad visibility, get up out of the
roadbed so if a plow is coming down and a car is
coming up, they don’t swerve into each other when
they see you at the last second.”
Walking in single file and hitchhiking from
safe places top his list of suggestions.
“Last year I was constantly shocked at people
hitchhiking at the base of Glory,” he recalls. “Okay,
it has a million tracks and it’s not going to slide that
day. But why not go up the road a hundred feet?
weren’t ready and didn’t get in the
car fast enough,” he laments. “She
couldn’t get going again and asked
them for a push, and they took off!
Left her! Come on!
“That reflects poorly on all of us.
They could have given her a push.
But instead, they split and she had to
put her chains on, crawling under her
car, out in the highway. That’s sketch.
The highway patrol is not busting
people for hitchhiking (it’s illegal in
Wyoming). But they will if it causes
an accident.”
Issues stemming from the often
overcrowded parking lot seem to
have settled down, but room for improvement exists.
“A few people still park below the
signs,” he says. “I guess they just want
to learn the hard way. It’s a huge
ticket, plus your car is gone when you
get back from skiing! They don’t give
warnings anymore. If you park there,
you’re going to get towed. It’s the
The early bird gets the worm—or, in this case, the freshies.
most expensive ski day possible!
“People should try and park tight—
slope nice and light—not heavy on their turns—
a door-width is room enough. Things will be doing all the little things experienced backcountry
going fine, and then four or five cars will park in skiers do to make their runs safe. If you don’t
a super hurry, and there’s room for one more car know what all those little things are, then you
within that batch. It adds up, and on most busy need to take a class to be aware of them.”
days there could be two or three more parking
One bummer that even the best skiers inflict
spaces if people kept it together. Having those on Jay’s proposed safety net is “the time factor.”
extra spaces would help keep people from having
“We have a really active population,” he acto wait. And when you are waiting for a space to knowledges. “Sometimes people are on a time
open up, try not to be too close to the eastbound budget. They’ve got to get the work, and that
lane. The highway patrol would really appreciate makes them do things they might not normally do.
that, especially when there is bad visibility.
If there’re two or three people in the bowl, maybe
“It’s such a busy place. If they are staging a res- they’re not going to wait for those people to exit.
cue from up there, you might have to stay out of There’re going to be times when multiple people
that lot. Go somewhere else, like down to Mail are in that bowl. It’s just the nature of the beast.
Cabin. Don’t try and snake the last spot and make
“People then have to identify the potential
them ask you to move so they can get one of their slide zone, the number of tracks that have been
rescue trucks in there.”
put in an area, and if there’s a natural feature that
Last winter the highway was closed when a makes the people below safe. You have to be able
skier or snowboarder put a small slide across the to guage where that slide path is going to run if
road.
you put something down and where the people
“This year they will fine skiers who put slides below are compared to that.
across the road,” he says. “Obviously it’s a safety
“That doesn’t really get communicated beissue: you could kill someone. But it’s a resource cause people are in different groups, but you can
issue, too. They have to pull equipment from an- be smart enough about it. Sometimes a slide path
other job. They like to plan for that situation, with surprises us where it runs but, for the most part,
equipment and commuter traffic closures, when you should be able to identify where a slide path
they shoot the Pass.”
that you put down might run.
As for seeing tracks in Glory Bowl on days
“But if somebody is down there standing in
with a high-avalanche warning, Jay likes to re- the middle of the bowl, just totally clueless, and
mind people that all skiers are not created equal.
you’ve been waiting a long time for them to exit
He offered an example. “People see tracks out to an island of safety or to continue their run
coming down Glory on a huge day and tend to down, and they are doing something that’s totally
say, ‘That’s the place to go.’ Maybe it is, maybe it a Gumby move, you can either go ski something
isn’t. Depends on how you ski it. Some skiers are else, or ski down to them and give them a little lestalented and knowledgeable. They aren’t affecting son: ‘Dude, you’re standing out in a really dangerthat slope the same way as somebody skiing ‘wide ous spot. If this bowl slides it’s going to come down
with pride’—making big turns back and forth on you.’ There’s always a way to present informaacross the slope, like a ‘troller doing a ski cut.
tion where people tend to accept it. Don’t jump
“Don’t assume those twelve tracks mean it’s down their throat.”
safe. Those skiers might have ripped down the
That’s how Jay does it.
“I let people walk all over me just
to get my point across,” he explains.
“If people get ‘agro,’ shouting at me,
I’m just gonna be totally chill. I’ve
taken that attitude and I’m gonna
stick with that. Not be confrontational, even with the ‘bilers who
break the boundary.”
“It’s mostly positive up there,” he
concludes. “The mutt mitt cans, for
instance, which I used to empty once
a month, I now empty twice a week.
People are using them.
“I think a lot of people feel like
they are deputized. They are not
afraid to speak to people, ‘Hey
there’s a mutt mitt can right there.
How about putting it to use?’ Because I’m just one guy. And if you
give people an idea of how it can
work for everybody else, they are
going to share that.” — JH Skier
The position of Teton Pass Ambassador benefits from the support
of several local agencies and businesses, including Tim Young, (Executive Director, Friends of Pathways), Linda Merigliano
(Program Manager, United States Forest Service), Cloudveil, Skinny Skis, Wilson Backcountry Sports, and Teton Mountaineering. All of
these share a common goal: continued access to
public lands via Teton Pass.
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• 307-733-3415 •
FAX: 307-739-1142
http://www.thehostel.us
[email protected]
65
Avalanche Awareness
The numbers are ominous and
worth heeding: 13 avalanche-related deaths in the Teton and Snake
River Ranges during the last
decade. The toll in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem even more unsettling: 57 fatalities at the cold
hand of avalanches.
66
by Sarah Carpenter
Dave Miller studies the snowpack.
Huckers like this unknown skier triggered several small slabs on No Name that day.
insight into winter safety by attending local avalanche awareness nights in both Jackson (December 4 at Snow King) and Driggs (December 3 in
the high school auditorium). These are evenings
of presentations, exhibitors, and door prizes all related to snow and avalanches.
The more time folks want to spend in the
backcountry, though, the more they should know
about it. A Level I program is a three-day intro-
one is caught. By applying these skills, in conjunction with the daily avalanche-hazard forecast
from the Bridger-Teton avalanche forecast center,
participants begin to understand that snow stability and weather conditions should dictate terrain choices.
The next step, Level II, affords a more indepth look at many Level I topics—snowpack, terrain, rescue—and goes further by focusing on
snow-stability analysis. Students
spend time examining snow crystals
under a hand lens, digging snow pits,
and performing stability tests. More
time is spent navigating through
challenging avalanche terrain in the
Tetons during the four-day course.
A relatively small, yet indispensable, number of winter enthusiasts
undertake the Level III course, geared
towards professionals—guides, ski
patrollers, avalanche forecasters, or
very experienced and focused recreationists. Level III courses are five-tosix days in length and cover
route-finding in complex terrain, efficient stability analysis, and avalanche-forecasting exercises.
But even the experts will agree
Sarah Carpenter, in the field that avalanche education and skills
ductory course where participants can learn the development are never complete. “As with most
basics of avalanche rescue, such as how to organ- backcountry ski locations, the Tetons have a mix
ize a rescue and conduct a transceiver search of experienced travelers with avalanche knowlshould a party member get caught in an ava- edge and lots of people who don’t choose the
lanche. Participants practice transceiver search smartest routes or employ safe travel procedures.
methods, and probing and shoveling techniques Taking an avalanche course is important, but
in the field. Basic route-finding, terrain assess- choosing more experienced and trustworthy partment, and safe-travel practices are also taught at ners and mentors may be even more important,”
this level, where an emphasis on avalanche avoid- says avalanche educator Don Sharaf.
ance balances the training of what to do if some“The Teton area can be challenging to a
McKoy photos, this page
Clearly, the nation’s most prized winter playground can turn deadly. As the backcountry
draws more recreationists, the potential for
mishaps increases. Skiers, snowboarders, trekkers,
and snowmobilers would do well to prepare
themselves for the unexpected as they venture
into a not-always benign winter wonderland.
“It seems to me that after almost every snowfall event, folks are caught in avalanches,” says
Doug Meyer of Teton County Search & Rescue
(TCSAR). Meyer estimates that TCSAR responds
to six-to-eight avalanche incidents a year. “The
equipment that’s available for skiers, riders, and
snowmobilers these days can take them into
places where their knowledge and mountaineering skills can’t keep up with their equipment.
That’s what gets a lot of people into trouble.”
Meyer, who is in charge of the 39 year-round
search and rescue volunteers, emphasizes the
need to be ready for anything in the backcountry.
“It’s important for people to be prepared when
they venture into the backcountry,” says Meyer.
“Backcountry travelers should have a
transceiver, shovel, probe, as well as
food and water, extra clothing, a headlamp, a first aid kit, and a lightweight
tarp. They need to understand that it
may be several hours or the next day
when search and rescue can get to
them if something goes wrong, depending on location, weather, and avalanche conditions.” Backcountry
travelers should also carry a map,
compass, and possibly a GPS. But
these items do little good to the untrained. Map reading and navigation
skills are essential backcountry skills,
in both summer and winter, so education is the critical link here.
An avalanche course, once the
realm of only hardcore backcountry
skiers, has become essential for even
weekend outdoor recreationists.
Conveniently, the oldest avalanche school in
the country is located right here in Jackson. The
American Avalanche Institute (AAI) was founded
by local Rod Newcomb in 1974. Additionally,
Exum Mountain Guides, Jackson Hole Mountain
Guides, and Yostmark Backcountry Tours all offer
avalanche courses during the winter. And their
courses are well attended.
Those with limited time can gain at least some
In a not-always benign
winter wonderland
Chris Peck (Phil skiing); Pat Comfort (portrait)
novice. Even after a basic avalanche course, terrain options in easily accessible areas like Teton
Pass generally involve negotiating challenging terrain, often with serious consequences (for mistakes),” continues Sharaf.
Meyer agrees. Search-and-rescue volunteers
are well trained and committed to helping. “What
brings us all together is our desire to give back to
the community that we all love,” he concludes. On
average, members go through 300 hours of training per year, from weekly avalanche training in
the winter, to wilderness medical training, cave
rescue, high-angle rescue, swift-water rescue, navigation, and route-finding training. The local
search and rescue team is a valuable resource, but
self-sufficiency and competence are even more
valuable for backcountry travelers.
Get educated, be prepared, be smart, and
practice, practice, practice. If you should need
outside help, “Dial 911 on your cell phone if you
have reception. But make sure that your numberone focus is to put time into looking for your
friends (for) at least an hour before you go for
help,” says Meyer.
Pay attention. Check the daily avalanche bulletin. Choose your partners wisely. And donate to
your local SAR.
Regional avalanche courses start in early December and go through early March. Sarah Carpenter developed a fascination and
love for snow at a young age. She grew up skiing in
New Mexico, chose her college because of its proximity to the mountains, and has been based in the
Tetons for the last seven years.
Course Schedules
American Avalanche Institute
www.avalancheclass.com
Level I: Dec. 9-12, Dec. 18-21, Jan. 8-11, Feb.
5-8, Feb. 26-Mar. 1, Mar. 12-15;
Level II: Jan. 2-5; Level III: Feb. 11-15
Phil “Fee” Tassinari
September 29, 1956 —
November 8, 2008
Whoever thought a penguin could ski
Unless you saw it, you wouldn't believe
The hardest working man on the hill?
No question about it, he was the real deal
More free lunches than you could add
Always happy and smiling...never mad
Haircuts on the lift and a spoon in his pocket
An accident on the hill and he was there like a rocket
Work hard, play hard, be happy and smile
He did everything with that penguin style
We all lost a friend, a huge heart he did have
It is so hard not to be sad
So grab a drink and lift it to the sky
Give a toast to a friend...one hell of a guy
Fee, it is so hard to say goodbye.
We will miss you!! — Jackson Hole Ski Patrol
WILD by NATURE
G A L L E R Y
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
www.jhmg.com
Level I: Dec. 12-4, Jan. 13-15, Jan. 30-Feb. 1,
Feb. 13-15; Level II: Feb. 5-8
Yostmark Backcountry Tours
Level I: Dec. 5-7, Jan. 16-18; Level II: Feb. 13-16
Exum Mountain Guides
www.exumguides.com
Level I: Jan. 22-25; Level II Feb. 19-22
Beacon Parks
Local beacon parks typically have 10 transceivers hard-wired into a control panel. These
transceivers are buried in containers and remain buried for the season. One can practice
searching for 1, 2, 3, or even 10 transceivers at
a time, by turning on a given number of beacons at the control panel, locating each transceiver by a probe strike, but leaving them
buried. There are two beacon basins in the
Tetons: one below the East Ridge Chair at
JHMR and one on Phillips Bench up the
Phillips Canyon road.
Wildlife & Landscape Photographs by
Henry H. Holdsworth
Limited Edition Photographs, Books, Note Cards
95 W. Deloney • Behind the Wort Hotel • Box 2673 • Jackson, WY 83001 • 733-8877
www.wildbynaturegallery.com
67
“We are mechanized backcountry skiers. That’s how
we feel about it in Alaska. We use airplanes,
snowmobiles, snowcats, and
helicopters to ski.”
—Theo Meiners
John Verdon
68
Matt Haines (top); McKoy (bottom)
S
High Mountain Heli-Skiing
ince 1974, High Mountain Heli-Skiing (HMH) has been offering its
guests the ultimate deep-powder helicopter-skiing experience in Jackson
Hole—untracked snow in the backcountry within a safety cocoon provided
by guides. Owner Jon Shick’s 21 winters as the company’s lead guide and avalanche forecaster suit him well as he steers High Mountain Heli-skiing into
its 34th season.
Shick’s helicopters, state-of-the-art Bell 407s, convey skiers into some of
the region’s finest forest and glades, where they rack up 12,000 to 15,000 vertical feet in a typical day. Terrain options include the Snake River and Palisades mountain ranges and portions of the Hoback, Teton, and Gros Ventre
mountain ranges, places that transfix even the locals with their alpine
grandeur.
Each HMH guide, trained in outdoor emergency care, CPR, and avalanche-hazard forecasting and mountain rescue, rounds out every group of
five skiers. Because the terrain ranges from intermediate to expert, skiers and
boarders should be at the advanced level. “If a skier can link turns down Rendezvous Bowl and the Hobacks,” said Shick, “they can ski anything we do.”
Jackson Hole heli-skiers won’t notice much difference this year, despite a
recent court decision that, over a three-year period, scales back HMH’s skier
days in the Palisades Wilderness Study Area, his most popular and successful terrain. Shick is working with the Forest Service to open new terrain to replace the skier-days he is gradually losing in the Palisades. But the going is
slow due to the required environmental studies necessary to survive additional potential lawsuits by the current plaintiffs—the Greater Yellowstone
Coalition, the Jackson Hole Conservation Alliance, the Sierra Club, and Earth
Justice—all of which have offices in Jackson and are diligently monitoring the
subject.
“I am cutting back my bookings,” he said of his business plan, “taking it
one year at a time. When they cut us down to 65 skiers two years from now
we’ll probably have to close the doors if I haven’t gotten any satisfaction out
of the Forest Service by then.”
Over the last 30 years, HMH has lost most of its bread-and-butter terrain to Wilderness Area designation. The slopes on and around Cache Peak,
perfect heli-ski terrain a short flight from downtown Jackson, were included
in the Gros Ventre Wilderness in 1984 when Congress passed the Wyoming
Wilderness Act (WWA). He lost his west-slope terrain near Grand Targhee
when the Jedediah Smith Wilderness Area was formed under the same legislation. The Forest Service allowed HMH to continue skiing in the Palisades,
“They all have
pyramid-shaped north
faces and long slopes,
some with 5,200-verticalfoot runs. In a week,
my clients ski about
40 runs and 200,000
vertical.”
Theo Meiners and a client look at the vast potential of Clueland, a short flight from the lodge.
a mountain range the bill designated as a Wilderness Study Area, and
increased his user days there as his business grew. The coalition of environmental
groups sued in 2006 to revoke those permits.
The embattled Shick misses the 1970s. “Going into places for the first time,
figuring it out and skiing it,” he recalled. “Those were the adventure days, the pioneering days. It was wide open.”
“I f you can ski the Hobacks, the Lower Faces, or Rendezvous Bowl, you can
ski the Chugach and have a great time doing it,” said Alaska Rendezvous Heli
Alaska Rendezvous Heli-Guides
Guides owner Theo Meiners.
Theo should know. A 31-year veteran of the Jackson Hole Ski School with 14
years of guiding in Alaska, he has strong ties to both places.
His heli-ski lodge on Thompson Pass, 50 miles from Valdez, Alaska, reflects
an affinity for Jackson Hole’s Rendezvous Mountain. “I wanted ‘rendezvous’ part
of my name,” Meiners recalled, “and it works because Alaska also has a fur trapper’s rendezvous in February when the sun comes back out.”
His ski season begins on March 12 with a full 12 hours of daylight illuminating the Chugach, and ends with the 17-hour days of early May.
The absolute wildness and adventure of heli-skiing in Alaska is iconic, but
also unique in a truly Alaskan way. “It’s really upside-down mountaineering,”
State-of-the-art
Bell 407s, convey
skiers into some of
the region’s finest forest
and glades, where they
rack up 12,000 to 15,000
vertical feet in
a typical day.
Çharlotte Moats
Jess McMillan
69
Lynsey Dyer
noted Meiners in a two-edged proclamation: the guides and clients always
start at the top, and they use machines to get there. “We are mechanized
backcountry skiers, but that’s how we feel about it in Alaska,” he explained.
“Alaskans use airplanes, snowmobiles, snowcats, and helicopters to ski.”
As far as the helicopters go, they have never been more powerful. “We
live in an incredible time for aeronautic development,” Meiners continued.
“The helicopters we use are fantastic, and the pilots’ skills are unbelievable,
too. They open so much more of the range for us. We can nitpick all the details and do some really exciting skiing in a really short period of time.”
Perhaps, though, the key to success is his motel and restaurant / bar /
liquor store.
“Modern conveniences—hot water, comfortable rooms, great food, a secure base—that’s all very important,” Theo emphasized. “People have to feel
really comfortable so they can relax after the stress from being in the wilds.”
The motel has a massage area, a workout area, a laundromat, and eight
large rooms with queen-size beds, private baths, and telephone/data lines.
“People can sit in their rooms and go online with their computers or conve-
niently talk on the phone to
friends back home.”
Or they can step out onto the
porch and view their ski day.
“Right out my door is the ‘front
nine,’ ” he pointed out. “They all have
pyramid-shaped north faces and long slopes,
some with 5,200-vertical-foot runs. In a week, my clients ski about 40 runs
and 200,000 vertical.”
And beyond that doorstep is a wide, wide world of Alaska skiing. “Our permit includes five mountain ranges, and we ski ‘em all,” he proudly pointed out.
Jackson Hole skiers love Alaska, but these days clients also come from
places like Vail and Aspen, as well as skiers coming as groups. “It’s nice when
skiers are familiar with one another,” he said. “If you are happy with your
group and used to each other’s pace, it really helps soften the required skill
sets. You don’t have to be a daredevil to come up to Alaska.”
And the snow? “We get snowstorms like Florida gets hurricanes,” he said,
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70
McKoy
Angle
Mountain is a
short snowcat drive
into the Bridger Teton
National Forest, which
receives an average
annual snowfall of
over 300 inches.
laughing. “The average snowfall at sea level is 350
inches, and on Thompson Pass is 600-to-700 inches,
with 1,200 inches in some years.”
Clearly, folks comfortable skiing Rendezvous Bowl
and the Hobacks should consider a vacation with Alaska
Rendezvous Heli Guides and find out what all the hype
is really about.
Grand Targhee SnowCat
Adventures
One of the hallmarks of the Grand Targhee experience is a SnowCat Adventure on Peaked Mountain.
Twelve skiers or snowboarders have a huge powder reserve of 1,000 acres awaiting for up to 20,000 vertical
feet in a day. Follow the expert guides through expansive north-facing bowls, mellow, gladed cruisers, and
steep treed pitches, with breathtaking views of the
Tetons all around.
Ten new trails this year; average run: 2,000 vertical
feet; longest run: 2,200 vertical feet; average number of
runs per day: 10 to 12.
Riders should be at least intermediate level, able to
link turns in all conditions and should be comfortable
riding in trees and able to avoid natural obstacles.
Togwotee Mountain Lodge
Snowcat Guides
As lead guide for Jackson Hole’s first and only snowcat operation, Jamie Weeks can hardly believe his good
fortune. “I’m very excited about what we have to offer,”
he said of the terrain on Togwotee’s Angle Mountain.
“The views of Jackson Hole and the Teton Range while
you are skiing are outstanding.”
Weeks should know a good thing when he sees it,
having guided snowboarders and skiers for nine years at
the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (JHMR) and eight
years in Alaska with Valdez Heli Ski Guides (VHSG).
The big selling points for Weeks are the views, the
serenity of this remote location, and being able to easily access all aspects and choose from 360 degrees of skiing. Skiing north, south, east, and west enables the
guides to lead clients to the best snow despite any
changes in weather conditions or the time of day.
“We encourage both skiers and snowboarders to
come ride with us,” Weeks said. “I’m a ‘boarder and I know
how to guide them, and I’ve also guided plenty of skiers.”
The terrain varies from super mellow to short, steep
shots like JHMR’s Expert Chutes. Much of the 750 acres
is similar to HMH terrain—1,600 vertical feet of wideopen bowls and faces, steeps, and trees—great for advanced intermediates. Short hiking tours are also
available to get to places the cat can't.
Togwotee Mountain Lodge rests on Togwotee Pass,
48 miles from Jackson. From the lodge, Angle Mountain is a short snowcat drive into the Bridger Teton National Forest, which receives an average annual snowfall
of over 300 inches. New ownership of Togwotee Lodge
in 2008 will continue the commitment to excellence.
A full day of cat-skiing consists of six to ten runs, depending on the ability of the group, which may include up
to 10 clients. Private trips, snowmobile/ski combos, and
custom trips are also available, all led by highly trained
guides who have advanced avalanche certifications.
— JH Skier
Jackson’s ONLY snowcat
ski/snowboard operation
800-543-2847
www.togwoteelodge.com
[email protected]
under permit BTNF
HIGH MOUNTAIN HELI - SKIING
Enjoy the pure powder experience.
Ski the high mountains where
pristine bowls and forested glades go on forever.
Box 173, Teton Village, Wy 83025 • 307-733-3274 • Fax 307-733-3529
www.heliskijackson.com • email: [email protected]
71
Snowmobiling
Story and photos by Bob Woodall
In most of the country,
winter and snowstorms are greeted
with dread and angst, but not here. After all,
this is snow country! With so much of the white
stuff carpeting Wyoming’s mountains each winter,
learning to love it is a necessity. And a great way
to love this plush white carpet is astride a
snowmobile. So saddle up and head into
the great white open.
N
orthwest Wyoming straddles the stunning continental divide and is
blessed with some of the best snowmobile landscapes available in the world, a
veritable winter playground for snowmachine enthusiasts.
Snowmachines provide quick access to even the deepest reaches of the winter
backcountry. Within a few minutes you can be far from the highway and immersed in
the Rocky Mountains’ winter beauty.
Can I ride a snowmobile?
Snowmachines are pretty stable items. If you can drive an automobile and you
have an opposable thumb and forefinger, you should be able to ride down a groomed
trail to, say, Old Faithful Geyser. You squeeze the throttle with your right thumb and
the brake with your left hand. It may take a few miles to get the feel of the trail but most
riders can master the basics quickly. Riding off-trail, though, will require a bit more
experience. Off-trail snowmobiling, not allowed in national parks, is a skill-intensive
sport.And just as driving a car down the road doesn’t qualify one to race in the Monte
Carlo Grand Prix, steering a snowmobile along groomed trails is vastly different from
72
Top: An explosion of powder rewards Jim Moulton as he bashes
through a cornice. Above: The Continental Divide is a vast playground for “kids” like Cameron Garnick.
Snowmobile Tours of
with BEST Adventures
Experience Winter in
Yellowstone National Park
• Transportation to and
from your lodging
• Hot breakfast at our location
• Hot lunch served
in Yellowstone
• New Cleaner 4-Stroke Machines
• No experience necessary
• Guided Tours
Photo by Connie Holdon
TOURS INCLUDE:
BEST ADVENTURES
TOGWOTEE
307-733-4845 •1-800-851-0827
Email: [email protected]
?
GEYSERS ? STEAK COOK-OUT ?
? WILDLIFE ? HOT SPRINGS ?
OFFERING TOURS TO THE
FOLLOWING AREAS:
? Yellowstone
? Old Faithful
? Grand Canyon
of the Yellowstone
? Granite Hot Springs
? Continental Divide Trail
? Togwotee
1/2 DAYL
IA
SPbEesC
t value
Hole
Airport drop
off available
after rental
in Jackso
n
Your Schedule, Your Pace
• Transportation available from your lodging
• Ride to mountain lodges for lunch
• Ride Togwotee area trail systems
• Located on the Continental Divide
Snowmobile Trail
• Clean 4 Stroke Snowmobiles
• Current Model Powder Snowmobiles;
600, 800 & 1000 RMKs
M-6. M-8 & M-10 Arctic Cats
• Double Machines Available
• Clothing, Helmet and Boots Included
Jackson Hole, Wyoming
Located at the G.T.P. RV Resort, Moran
1-800-563-6469 1-307-733-1980
www.yellowstonerv.com
GRANITE HOT SPRINGS
All inclusive Guided
& Self-Guided Tours
Extended Overnight
Packages
Call for more information...
Breakfast, lunch and
transportation to and
from your lodging.
Let our expert guides
show you the beauty of
the Teton Mountains
this winter.
1-800-633-1733 or 307-733-6850
www.jacksonholesnowmobile.com
email: [email protected]
P.O. Box 11037 • 945 W. Broadway
Jackson, WY 83002
73
Snowmobiling the Togwotee Pass area provides spectacular vistas of the Tetons.
finessing it through woodlands and powder fields at
breakneck speeds.
Guided or go it alone?
If you have never snowmobiled before, by all means
go guided. All tour companies offer guided-trip packages. They usually provide transportation from your
lodging and they all supply the warm clothes needed for
a comfortable experience. Continental or hot breakfasts
and hot lunches usually round out the package. The
guides, of course, are trained in snowmobile and winter
safety and have a handle on the area’s flora, fauna, and
history.
Unguided rentals, though, are a great way to see the
country at one’s own pace, except in Yellowstone, which
is closed to all but commercially guided parties. But be
sure to be prepared for severe winter conditions, and
know where you are going.
Wyoming winters can be
painfully brutal for
This is true
the unprepared.
powder-busting,
Just
ask
Olympic
Gold
cornice-bashing,
Medalist
zoom-across-aRulon Gardiner. After
wide-open-fieldgetting sepaof-powder
rated from his
country.
snowmobile party,
he got disoriented and
then bogged down his machine.
After spending a night out in below-zero temperatures,
he lost a toe to frostbite. So never head into the backcountry alone.
Where to go?
There are several major
snowmobile destinations in
northwest Wyoming, each
with its own special features.
Some are snowmobile playgrounds while others are primarily
for viewing the natural wonders.
Togwotee Pass, Granite Hot Springs,
Green River Valley,and the Greys River Valley are
the playgrounds, while Yellowstone and Gros Ventre areas are for observing wildlife and the natural world.
Yellowstone National Park
Tops on many travelers’ lists is Yellowstone National
Park. Snowmobiling through the park is a great way to
experience this wonderland. The steam from geysers
and hot springs is accentuated by the cold, crisp air.
Herds of bison and elk graze the geyser basins, where
the earth’s heat keeps the snow melted away from the
summer grasses. If you’ve never been to Yellowstone,
then a visit should be on your must-do list.
But make no mistake,Yellowstone is not a snowmobile playground! The machine is merely personal transportation through the scenic and natural wonders of the
park. Travel is restricted to the groomed roadways. All
off-road travel is prohibited and the speed limit is enforced at 35 mph from West Yellowstone to Old Faithful
and at 45 mph on all other park roads. Snowmobiles actually offer less access than do automobiles in the summer. Contrary to some misperceptions, snowmobiles
and riders cannot wander wherever they want in the
park.All this info will be stressed by your guides,though,
as private citizens are no longer allowed to snowmobile
Family Restaurant
“Jackson’s Local Favorite”
A place where things are still the same
1 block south of Town Square
307-733-2639
Free Wireless Internet Available
40 W. Pearl St. • corner of Cache & Pearl
Jackson, Wyoming
74
S TEAKS ~ S EAFOOD
~ C HICKEN ~
C OMBINATION P LATES
G REAT S OUP
& S ALAD B AR
O PEN 7AM
B REAKFAST B UFFET
L UNCH & D INNER
A SK US ABOUT OUR B EER
& W INE S ELECTION
Granite Hot Springs
in the park, even if they have the required four-stroke
machines.
Granite Hot Springs
While Yellowstone abounds with hot springs,the opportunity to take a plunge in one of them is not an option. Not only are most too hot, but swimming in them
is illegal.So if you crave a dip in a 100-degree pool in the
great outdoors, then head to Granite Hot Springs. The
natural hot spring-fed pool, set amidst the imposing
Gros Ventre mountains,is just part of a day trip up Granite Creek. Unlike in Yellowstone park, snowmobilers can
go off trail and romp in the powder fields that the area offers. This would be a good break-in for those who want
to kick it up a notch on the snowmobile learning curve.
Union Pass & Green River Valley
Southeast of Togwotee Pass is the sprawling Union
Pass and the Upper Green River Valley region. The Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail (CDST) accesses this
area from both the Pinedale and Dubois sides of the
Wind River Range.The Pinedale/Green River side of the
mountains has a trail system of over 135 miles,while the
Dubois side has over 150 miles of trails through some of
the most scenic country in the West. Breathtaking tracts
of open country,with mountains in view everywhere and
snow depths reaching 10 feet, just beg to be explored.
Togwotee Pass
If you want to really boot it up a notch, head to
the Togwotee Pass area, where thousands of square
miles of terrain await exploring. This is true powderbusting, cornice-bashing, zoom-across-a-wide-openfield-of-powder country. But there’s more to world-class
snowmobiling than wide-open terrain. Amid the Gros
Ventre, Absaroka, Wyoming, and Wind River mountain
ranges, the scenery is second to none. The visibility on
clear days can reach upwards of 150 miles. The Breccia
Cliffs and the Pinnacle Buttes tower over this playground
and the Tetons loom majestically in the distance.
Snaking its way through the Togwotee Pass area is
the CDST. A 350-mile groomed trail, it connects Lan-
Enjoy natural wonders while snowmobiling in the
nation’s 1st national park.
GRANITE HOT SPRINGS
Swim in the Granite Hot Springs 104 degree pool!
TOGWOTEE PASS
At 10,00 feet this tour’s powder snow is
unmatched.
GROS VENTRE ADVENTURE
View more wildlife & beautiful scenery than on any
other High Country tour.
GREYS RIVER
Unforgettable scenery and exciting rides await you
at the base of these giant mountains.
Our trips can be specially tailored to suit families
and groups. We can combine any or all of the
areas we represent.
OVERNIGHT SNOWMOBILE ADVENTURE
ALL TRIPS INCLUDE: Transportation to & from
lodging,snowmobile gear, breakfast and lunch.
JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING
800-524-0130 307-733-5017
ALL TRIPS
INCLUDE
Book
Online
Transportation to & from lodges, snowmobile suit, helmet,
boots & gloves.
Call for reservations.
www.hcsnowmobile.com
Rocky O’Neal rips through powder fields along
the Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail.
mountains, great trail riding, and unlimited backcountry, the ultimate riding and powder hunting
grounds.
Overnight and Multi-day Trips
If this menu of options sounds like too much to digest in one day, consider a multi-day excursion. String
together several of these destinations with overnight
stays in remote, snow-bound lodges. Start at one end
of the trail and emerge at the other, never having to
backtrack. Consider a three-night excursion through
Yellowstone, staying at a different lodge each night.
So whatever you may be seeking in a snowmobile experience, the palette of opportunity is broad. Don’t be
afraid of the machine: just jump on and ride the magic
carpet of the great white open. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m
RO
Y MOUNT
K
A
C
SNOWMOBILE
SNOWMOBIL
TOURS
T0URS AVAILABLE:
• Granite Hot Springs
• Continental Divide
• Yellowstone – travel by
snowmobile or snowcoach
• Gros Ventre
• Togwotee
• Greys River
WE PROVIDE:
• Transportation to and from your
Jackson Hole lodging
• Breakfast & lunch
• Snowmobile Gear
• Current model snowmobiles with hand
warmers
• 4 stroke snowmobiles
733-2237 1-800-647-2561
BOOK ONLINE
www.snowmobiletours.net • email:
[email protected]
222222222222222222222222222222222
Greys River Valley
South of Jackson, near the mouth of the Snake
River Canyon, lies the Greys River Valley, one of the
locals’ favorite spots. This playground serves up
everything a snowmobiler could want: towering
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK
222222222222222222222222222222222
Gros Ventre River
Wildlife viewing is high on many visitors’ to-do lists.
And a trip up the Gros Ventre Valley offers riders just
that – and then some. Starting just above the Gros Ventre Slide, the trail closely follows the summer road.
Since this is critical winter game habitat, travel is mostly
restricted to the roadway. Willow bottom lands are
prime moose habitat and bighorn sheep inhabit the
cliffs to the north of the trail. Twenty miles up the Gros
Ventre is an elk feeding ground. In the past few years
these wintering elk have attracted the attention of recently re-introduced wolves, so wolf sightings have become a distinct possibility.
Beyond the elk feeding grounds the terrain opens
up and affords some off-trail riding. But please respect
the wildlife closure areas. Disturbing wildlife causes
stress, and that stress can cause the unnecessary death
of an animal.
222222222222222
IN
der,Wyoming, to Pinedale, Jackson Hole, (machines must
be trailered through Grand Teton National Park),and West
Yellowstone. This sparkling chain strung among the
mountains is decorated with many jewels along its length.
A vast network of groomed side trails connects a patchwork of open meadows.
2222222222222222
SNOWMOBILE TOURS
FEATURING TRIPS TO YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK & TOGWOTEE PASS
ALSO GRANITE HOT SPRINGS, GROS VENTRE & GREYS RIVER • OFFERING UNGUIDED RENTALS
TOGWOTEE
MOUNTAIN
LODGE
307-543-2847 800-543-2847
GUIDED & UNGUIDED TOURS
Hwy 26-287 Moran, WY
2 convenient Jackson locations
to better serve you
under permit BTNF an equal opportunity service provider
75
What a rush it is,
leaning and ducking,
kicking and running
on the hills behind
the dogs, one
of the pack!
Sled Dogs
Story: Libby Riddles
Photos: Bob Woodall
I
grew up skiing, skating, and playing in the snow, so I also enjoy being
outside in the winter. And I love animals. This would partly explain why I’ve
lived in Alaska for 30-some years, and
have logged thousands of miles on a
sled pulled by the wildest, coolest dogs
on the planet, Alaskan huskies.
These 40- to 60-pound dogs can
outrun, out-eat, and outlive most other
breeds of dogs.
The northern Natives invented dog
sledding, an ingenious style of travel
perfect for snow country. Huskies are
one of the oldest breeds, and are almost
undoubtedly descended from wolves.
Their independence can make them as
difficult to train as cats, but they also
display the special loyalty and lovability
Taking in Wyoming’s winter wonderland at the speed of dog gives mushers
and huskies alike a warm and fuzzy
experience. Groomed trails provide
easy access for sleds to travel deep into
the mountains.
of a dog. It’s
the muscle that sometimes gets them
into trouble. Don’t they know that a dog
nose imploding into a human lip is
going to hurt a bit?
Many of these beautiful northern
dogs still retain their wolfish markings,
even if we have bred them to be smaller
and have shorter fur. The blue eyes or
mixed blue and brown eyes are famous
traits of the husky, although collies and
a few other breeds exhibit this coloration as well. Huskies can sometimes
be good pets, but be prepared for a dog
that can’t be trusted running loose: running away from home is a husky’s favorite hobby! They also sometimes
enjoy eating small animals and fighting
with other dogs. So if you can accept
their wildness and keep them out of
trouble, they can be great companions.
Modern-day huskies may be purebreds, but are more likely mixed breed
“Alaskan” huskies. Strains of hunting
hound, pointer, saluki, or others may
color the bloodlines of the dogs traditionally from the native villages. These
dogs can run a hundred miles a day in
the big races like the Iditarod and
Yukon Quest. And when the urge
The musher has to
know all the quirks of
each dog, and has to
teach them all to get
along together while at
the same time getting
them in shape.
strikes them, they throw back their muzzles and
sing to the moon like their ancestors, an eerie
northern song.
The musher has to know all the quirks of each
dog, and has to teach them all to get along together while at the same time getting them in
shape. Learning how to care for these high-powered canine athletes is an art. When the team gets
to the point of being well trained and cooperating smoothly with the musher, it is an unbelievably satisfying way to travel.
The speed and power of the dogs is a surprise
to some; a well-trained team can really cover
some ground. It is almost soundless travel, not
much more noise than a wolf pack on the run. A
little clinking from dog-collar rings and tags, the
creak of the sled, and the whooshing of the runners gliding over the snow are the sole sounds accompanying the musher. Only in Hollywood do
sled dogs bark on the run. And the musher speaks
only when needed, commanding with a soft “gee”
or “haw.” My dogs don’t mind if I also sing a bit, as
long as I don’t get too rowdy. A few ears will flick
back, and I know it’s time to behave.
It’s true that the musher
often gets to stand on the
sled runners as the dogs trot
down the trail. But if you
think this means just standing still, guess again. The
musher has to be constantly
watching the trail ahead and
adjusting her balance accordingly. A miscalculation may
throw her over the handle
bar if she’s not paying attention. What a rush it is, leaning and ducking, kicking and
running on the hills behind
the dogs, one of the pack!
And there’s magic in the
stories left tracked into the
frozen surface of the snow,
tales of the few stealthy creatures who inhabit the wintertime. Otter slides,
wolf tracks four times the size of my biggest dog.
What are they hunting here? The dogs glide quietly over the snow, making their own tracks, fitting gracefully into the still wilderness. Moose
tracks will put us on the alert; a moose in a bad
mood can be lethal to sled dogs.
Winter’s short days are conducive to monster
sunrises and sunsets. Add golden orange light to
drop-dead beautiful wild country, the symmetry
of the dogs and their shadows as they run, and the
artful aspect of this ancient sport is hard to miss.
Continued next page
JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG TOURS
Hosted by Jackson Hole’s own 8-Time Veteran
Iditarod Musher, Frank Teasley
A recipient of Leonhard Seppala Humanitarian Award
• Learn Mushing First Hand Drive your own sled team!
• Jackson based tours in the
Bridger-Teton National Forest
• Meals, transportation,
supplemental clothing provided
• Half-Day and Full-Day Tours,
Reservation Required
• Serving the immediate and
surrounding area
• Enjoy a soak in a natural 105°
hot springs on our famous
Granite Creek Canyon tour
For Reservations or Information
Call: 307-733-7388
JACKSON HOLE
IDITAROD
SLED DOG TOURS
P.O. Box 1940,
Jackson Hole, Wy 83001
www.jhsleddog.com
Photos by Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy/Focus Productions, Inc.
77
p
Stage Stop Sled Dog Race
The Best
Brands • Selection • Gear
The ceremonial start of the IPSSSDR, held on the Jackson Town Square, is an exciting part of the
Jackson Hole Winter Carnival, which also includes music, food booths, and fireworks.
The 14th annual International Pedigree Stage Stop Sled Dog Race (IPSSSDR) begins in Jackson on January 30, 2009 and ends in Park City, Utah, on February 7. The 2009 Jackson race sendoff takes place at the Jackson Hole Winter Carnival complete with a bonfire, fireworks show,
music and food booths, before heading on to stages in Lander, Pinedale, Big Piney/Marbleton,
Alpine, Kemmerer/Diamondville, Evanston/Lyman, and the big finish in Park City.
Race Director Frank Teasley anticipates another exciting race. “From the applications I’ve
received, it looks as if we’ll be hosting some of the world’s best mushers once again,” he said.
Scheduled between Europe’s La Grande Odyssée and Alaska’s Iditarod, the IPSSSDR is a marquee event on the professional mushing circuit and the largest sled dog race in the lower 48 states.
Many top mushers like to compete in all three events.
With its unique “stage-stop” format, the race stops in a different community each night.
Wyoming’s small towns host festivities for mushers and spectators that include banquets, barbeques, pancake feeds, snowshoe softball, dog parades, and ice sculpture demonstrations.
— wyomingstagestop.org
Miami • Ft. Lauderdale • Palm Beach
Delray Beach • Juno Beach • Vero Beach
Orlando • Tampa • Naples • Atlanta
Columbia • Richmond • Montpelier
Order by phone 1-800-749-3203
Free shipping on orders over $99!
Shop anytime at
www.peterglenn.com
78
It is all so beautiful – and almost impossible to
capture on film. But still I try.
When dog mushing started, it was a Native
thing. But then the explorers and gold seekers
took up the habit. Today there are Native mushers still involved with dog mushing, but the sport
has truly gone global. Mushers can be found not
only in Alaska, Canada, and Greenland, but also
in New Zealand, Scotland, Scandinavia, the Rockies, even in South Africa. In cool climates without reliable snow, mushers train and race
“dryland” style by using wheeled rigs such as
light-weight titanium trikes, dog scooters, and bicycles. Or they simply run behind the sled dog, a
method called cani-crossing. People with just one
or two athletic dogs can be mushers, too. A lot of
mushers run pointers or pointers crossed with
huskies. These types of dogs could never sleep a
night out on the snow, but can they ever burn up
a trail, even if they don’t look like “sled dogs!”
There is a small number of professional lifelong mushers today, mushers like 2007 champion
Lance Mackey, four-time champion Jeff King,
cancer survivor Deedee Jonrowe, the “Guy From
Montana” (Doug Swingly), and Jackson Hole’s
Frank Teasley, to name a few.
Other mushers mostly do tours with their
dogs, or a combination of racing and giving tours,
a more reliable way to support a sled-dog habit
than racing, and a perfect solution for dogs that
may not be fast enough for a racing team.
Even the littlest musher in the littlest town is
part of the mushing family. We have fun get-togethers and also support each other during the
hard times. Too often funerals and memorials are
what bring us together, like the one in August ‘06
for Susan Butcher, the four-time Iditarod Champion who had succumbed to leukemia, leaving
behind two small children and husband David
Monson.
We come from many different walks of life,
but share our love for the peaceful moments out
on the wild trails – and for winter. But it’s mostly
the dogs we love, these beautiful, exuberant spirits, who teach us so much and share their love,
their enthusiasm for a job well done, and a life
well lived. Libby Riddles, the first woman to win the Iditarod Sled Dog Race, is a lecturer and author of
three books, Race Across Alaska, Storm Run, and
Danger: the Dog Yard Cat. She lives in Homer,
Alaska, and has a kennel of 40 Alaskan Huskies.
Bob Woodall
LODGING❄SPAS❄ APRÉS SKI❄DINING
JACKSON
A C C O M M O D AT I O N S ,
LO D G I N G & S PAS
GRAND TARGHEE
GRAND TARGHEE Ski-in-ski-out access from
96 lodging rooms, deluxe hotel & condo units.
email:
Full service spa. 1-800-TARGHEE
[email protected] PG 48
GRAND TARGHEE SPA Outdoor pool, Jacuzzi,
steam, sports massage, mud wraps. 1-800TARGHEE PG 48
GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK
DORNAN’S SPUR RANCH CABINS 1 & 2 bedroom log cabins with full kitchen & living room.
Located on the Snake River in Grand Teton
National Park at Moose, with breathtaking views
of the Tetons. 307-733-2522 PG 16
JACKSON
ANTLER INN Downtown Jackson. 100 units, hot
tub, some fireplaces & suites, meeting room, fitness room. Ski & snowmobile packages available
& ski shuttle. 43 W Pearl. 307-733-2535 or 1-800522-2406 PG 44 & 82
COWBOY VILLAGE RESORT In the heart of
Jackson Hole, offers 82 individual log cabins accommodating
groups of 2–6 people. Property amenities include kitchens in all
cabins and two hot tubs. Ski & snowmobile packages available & ski
shuttle.120 South Flat Creek Drive. 307-733-3121or 800-962-4988
PG 44 & 82
ELK COUNTRY INN 88 units with 25 new log cabins. Family units
with lofts. Hot tub & guest laundry. Ski & snowmobile packages
available & ski shuttle. 480 W Pearl. 733-2364 or 800-4-TETONS
PG 44 & 82
49ER INN AND SUITES Downtown Jackson. 142 units, 30 fireplace suites. indoor & outdoor hot tubs—fitness room—meeting
facilities—continental breakfast. Ski & snowmobile packages
available & ski shuttle. 330 W Pearl. 307-733-7550 or 1-800-4512980 PG 44 & 82
HOMEWOOD SUITES-HILTON All-suite hotel located just off the
Town Square, featuring kitchens, gas fireplace, complimentary Suite
Start Breakfast, hi-speed internet & indoor pool / hot tub & fitness
room, ski shuttle. 260 N. Millward, Jackson 307-739-0808 PG 82
INN ON THE CREEK, 3 blocks from Jackson Town Square & open
year round. We offer sumptuously decorated rooms. A homemade signature breakfast is served each morning at the Inn’s
beautiful common table. 295 N Millward, Jackson, 307-739-1565
www.innonthecreek.com PG 82
PAINTED BUFFALO INN Discover why the West is wild. 3 blocks
from the Jackson Town Square. Swimming pool, sauna and shuttle stop are just a few of the conveniences we offer our guests.
400 W Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 /
307-733-4340 PG 82
SNOW KING RESORT Full service hotel, condominiums, restaurant,
room service cocktail lounge, heated pool, whirlpools, fitness room,
complimentary airport/ski area transportation, ski-in/ski-out. 733-5200
PG 45 & 82
TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD
ALPENHOF LODGE European style lodging & dining at the base of
JHMR. Hot tub, pool, sauna, massage therapy, all in a cozy lodge setting with friendly professional staff. 307-733-3242 PG 82
THE HOSTEL A friendly lodge, come and stay with us. Enjoy a
comfortable, pleasant & inexpensive stay at the base of the
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. 1 or 2 persons $109, 3 or 4 Persons
$119. www.thehostel.us, 307-733-3415 PG 65
JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to
the Teton Village Market, Ski-in/ski-out lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes,
for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990
PG 29 & 82
SNAKE RIVER LODGE & SPA, A RockResort, is Jackson’s first AAA
Four Diamond Slopeside Lodge.
Indulge in the 17,000 sq.ft.
Avanyu Spa with an indoor/outdoor swimming pool. Enjoy entertainment in the Fireside Lounge & dining in the GameFish
Restaurant. Come celebrate the opening of the New Tram this ski
season. 307-732-6000 PG 4 & 82
TETON CLUB Ski-in, Ski-out, trailside condo located at the base of
the JH Mt Resort. 2 & 3 bedroom exquisitely furnished condominiums and 5-star service make this property the only place to stay
while in Jackson Hole. 866-352-9777 PG 29
TETON MOUNTAIN LODGE & SPA Luxury full service resort hotel
located slope side at Jackson Hole, AAA 4-diamond property.
Cascade Restaurant, bar on-site, room service, full service Solitude
Spa, indoor-outdoor pools, hot tubs, named “Hot Spa 2008” by
Conde Nast Traveler. 307-734-7111 PG 3 & 82
snowcoach to Yellowstone, lodging, meals. Transportation available. 800-661-4928 PG 16
APRÉS SKI, BREW PUBS, LOUNGES
GRAND TARGHEE
THE TRAP BAR & GRILLE Lunch, apres ski snacks, light dinner.
Cocktails, micro-brew beers, wine, apres ski special. Live entertainment and special sports events. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 48
GRAND TETON PARK
DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Enjoy great food & the best view of
the Tetons. Full-service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun
11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 16
JACKSON
CADILLAC GRILLE LOUNGE “The Spot” for happy hour in
Jackson Hole. Happening nightly from 5pm to 7pm. 2 for 1 draft
beer and all mixed drinks. Dinner or Billy’s Burger are also available in the bar while you are enjoying happy hour. 307-733-3279.
On the town square next to the Cowboy Bar. PG 87
43 NORTH Slope-side tavern located at the Base of Snow King
Mountain. Come enjoy aged steaks, wild game, and fine seafood.
Live music. Fine selections of domestic and imported beer. 307733-0043 / 645 S. Cache PG 45
THE LOUNGE At Snow King Resort is a non-smoking venue
where you can enjoy premium martinis, cocktails & rotating drafts
on tap, nightly 2 pm to close. Great eats, flat screen TV & live
music. 733-5200 PG 45
SNAKE RIVER BREWERY The Great American Beer Festival’s
Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving tasty brews,
delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi. From 11:30 am
to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 43
TETON VILLAGE & VILLAGE ROAD
CAFÉ 6311 In the Bridger Center at the base of the Bridger
Gondola. Offering hot hoagies, hot bagel sandwiches and a variety of domestic and imported microbrews.PG 29
CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Located slope-side at the
Teton Mountain Lodge & Spa. Featuring daily Aprés Ski specials
on microbrews, cocktails and signature appetizers. 732-6932 PG 3
NICK WILSON'S COWBOY CAFE Located next to the Tram.
Breakfast, Smokehouse style lunch, daily specials, burgers, chili,
snacks and more. Vibrant Apres Ski Happy Hour 3-6pm with food
and drink specials. PG 29
VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés
Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza.
7am-10pm. Local's aprés ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37
WESTSIDE WINE & SPIRITS Offering a wide selection of the
finest wines, liquors & beers from around the world. At The
Aspens, Teton Village Road. 307-733-5038 PG 19
DINING – RESTAURANTS – CAFÉS
GRAND TARGHEE– TETON VALLEY, IDAHO
GRAND TETON – TOGWOTEE PASS
GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 5 restaurants serving a complete variety of food – gourmet dinners to snacks. Breakfast, lunch, dinner
& dinner sleigh rides. Fare includes: Pastries, espressos, sandwiches, salads, burgers, pizza, steaks, Mexican & Italian, blackened
foods. PG 48
TARGHEE PIZZERIA is a great place for kids 1-100. Arcade games,
daily & creative dinner buffets during peak periods. 1-800TARGHEE PG 48
THE TRAP BAR & GRILLE Lunch, apres ski snacks, light dinner.
Cocktails, micro-brew beers, wine, apres ski special. Live entertainment and special sports events. 1-800-TARGHEE PG 48
VICTOR EMPORIUM Sporting goods & Old Fashioned soda fountain.
Home of the World Famous Huckleberry Milkshake, downtown
Victor. 208-787-2221. PG 51
TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE On the CD Snowmobile Trail,
full service lodge, 54 modern cabins, restaurant, lounge, hot tubs,
transportation, snowmobile rental, clothing, guides. 307-5432847, [email protected] PG 71, 75 & 82
TRIANGLE C RANCH Complete winter recreation packages, “The
Old West In Winter”–dog sled trips, snowmobile excursions,
DORNAN’S PIZZA & PASTA Specialty pizzas, calzones, salads,
pastas, sandwiches. Enjoy great food & the best view of the
Tetons. Full-service bar, open for lunch. M-F 11:30-3; Sat/Sun
11:30-5; Bar 10-6. 733-2415 ext 204. PG 16
PINEDALE, WYOMING
THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Located in the center of Pinedale, 43
rooms, deluxe continental breakfast, indoor pool and jacuzzi,
complimentary high-speed internet, refrigerator & microwave in
every room. www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 PG 52 & 82
GRAND TETON PARK
THE ATRIUM Casual fare located in Snow King
Resort. Open daily serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Kid friendly, groups welcome. Breakfast buffet,
specializing in Holiday Brunch, full cocktail service.
307-733-5200 PG 45
BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS Jackson’s best,
biggest & juiciest burgers. All drinks & plenty of
beer. Take-out too. Opens at 11:30. Next to the
Cadillac Grille. On the Town Square. 733-3279 PG 87
THE BUNNERY Best breakfast in town, served all
day. Fresh baked pastries & we proudly brew
Starbucks Coffee. On North Cache, 1 block north of
the town square. 734-0075. PG 19
CADILLAC GRILLE Atmosphere, food, service &
price make this a Jackson Hole favorite. Excellent
steaks, game, seafood & pasta. Fabulous wine list.
Local microbrews & your favorite cocktail. On the
Town Square. 733-3279 PG 87
CAFE PONZA ITALIAN RISTORANTE & PIZZERIA
Simple–Fresh–Italian Antipasti, pasta, seafood,
steak, great wines, napolitean pizza, slices, calzones,
lasagna, sandwiches. Delivery & take-out ‘till late.
Pink Garter Plaza, 1/2 block off the Jackson Town
Square,50 W Broadway, 734-2720 PG 41
THE GUN BARREL STEAK AND GAME Mesquite-grilled steaks,
game & other New West selections, all served in our authentic
lodge. Extensive collections of scotch, bourbon, draft beer, &
extensive wine selection. 733-3287 PG 2
43 NORTH Slope-side tavern located at the Base of Snow King
Mountain. Come enjoy aged steaks, wild game, and fine seafood.
Live music. Fine selections of domestic and imported beer. 307733-0043 / 645 S. Cache PG 45
JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo: jerky, salami, smoked
roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burger & jerky. Gift packs,
smoked trout & more! Free Samples. 100% natural or certified
organic. We ship. South end of Jackson, in Smith’s Plaza &
Downtown in Gasligth Alley. 733-4159/800-543-6328 PG 87
McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness
& value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald’s freshly prepared breakfasts & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi available for your convenience.
5:30am–midnight. 1110 West Broadway at highway 22. PG 41
MOUNTAIN HIGH PIZZA PIE, also subs, salads, calzones.
Traditional, whole wheat, or deep dish crusts. fresh veggie toppings. 11 am to 10 pm. On Broadway across from the Wort Hotel.
WE DELIVER. 733-3646 PG 37
SNAKE RIVER BREWERY & RESTAURANT The Great American
Beer Festival’s Small Brewery of The Year, 2000 & 2001. Serving
tasty brews, delicious pizzas, pastas & sandwiches. Free WiFi.
From 11:30 am to Midnight, 7 days a week. 739-2337 PG 43
SWEETWATER RESTAURANT Local's’ favorite since 1976. Lunch
& dinner in a log cabin. Homemade soups, salads, sandwiches,
lamb, steaks, full bar, deadly desserts & extensive wine list. Corner
King and Pearl. 733-3553 PG 43
TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast buffet, lunch & dinner. Steaks,
salad bar, chicken, seafood. A local favorite! Corner of Pearl &
Cache across from Antler Inn. A place where things are still the
same. 733-2639 PG 74
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT
CASCADE GRILL HOUSE & SPIRITS Serving breakfast, lunch
Aprés Ski, & dinner. Featuring New Western Cuisine. Located
slope-side at the Teton Mountain Lodge. 732-6932 PG 3
GAMEFISH RESTAURANT in the Snake River Lodge & Spa, a
RockResort, is Jackson’s first AAA Four Diamond Slopeside Lodge.
Breakfast (with buffet), lunch & dinner. 307-732-6000 PG 4
NICK WILSON’S Cowboy Cafe in the Tram building, daily specials,
sandwiches, burgers, chili, snacks & beer, wine & liquor. Breakfastlunch & aprés ski, 7:30am-6pm daily, happy hour 3-6pm. PG 29
VILLAGE CAFE Next to the JH Tram dock. Breakfast, lunch & Aprés
Ski. Espresso, baked goods, wraps, sandwiches & the best pizza.
7am-10pm. Local's aprés ski spot with full bar. 732-CAFE PG 37
ON THE MOUNTAIN AT THE
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT
BEAR FLATS SNACK SHACK Located at the base of Sublette lift,
quick stop for lunch or snacks with on-the-go wraps. PG 29
BRIDGER RESTAURANT-MARKET PLACE AT 9095’ Individual serving stations, gourmet food, quick service. Seating for 150 & an
attached south-facing deck. Best views in the valley. PG 31
CASPER RESTAURANT Cozy mid-mountain skiers/boarders
retreat. Specialty burgers, burritos, a warm up station serving hot
drinks with a kick, and a new Bloody Mary Bar. PG 29
CAFE 6311 Base of the Bridger Gondola, serving hot bagel sandwiches, fresh salads, Deli Sandwiches, espresso and coffee. PG 29
CORBET'S CABIN Top-of-the-World waffles at the top of the tram
on Rendezvous Mountain, quick snacks, hot drinks with unlimited
views that are on the house. PG 29
COULOIR RESTAURANT FINE dining at 9,095 ft. Step off the
Gondola and walk into a contemporary & hip restaurant.
Exceptional hospitality, delectable American cuisine with Rocky
Mountain roots. Reservations recommended. 307-739-2675 PG 31
HEADWALL PIZZA AND DELI Casual hangout for skiers and snowboarders, serving breakfast and lunch. Gourmet pizza, sandwiches and hot soups ready to boost your energy. PG 31
RENDEZVOUS RESTAURANT AT 9,095 FT. Action stations, gourmet food, & quick service. Seating for 150 & an attached south
facing deck with the best views in the valley. PG 31
2 0 0 9 JAC KS O N H O L E S K I E R
79
SPORTS SHOPS❄APPAREL ❄GIFTS❄ JEWELRY❄A R T
ARMY. 80 Center Street, 307-733-5599, east side of town square.
PG 15
JC JEWELERS Jeter Case specializes in custom jewelry using platinum or gold and the finest in gem-quality stones. JC Jewelers also
carries handcrafted Teton design, Western charms and elk ivory
jewelry, in the log cabin just off Town Square, 132 N Cache. jcjewelers.com, 733-5933 or 800-358-5715 PG 3
MEDICAL SERVICES
ST JOHN’S TETON VILLAGE CLINIC 739-7346
ST JOHN’S HOSPITAL 733-3636
MUSIC
NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all
types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 37
PHOTOGRAPHY
DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full-service camera store.
Binoculars, digital & film cameras, including Nikon, Canon, Leica.
Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60
So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 PG 11, 85 & 86
FOCUS PRODUCTIONS INC. Products include the Jackson Hole
Skier, JH Dining Guide, Mountain Country Magazine & ski posters.
Commercial photography, stock photo file & editorial assignment.
307-733-6995. www.focusproductions.com
DORNAN’S GIFT SHOP Rental & sales of crosscountry skis, snow shoes. 733-2415, ext 301 In
the Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park.
PG 16
APPAREL & SPORTS SHOPS
GRAND TARGHEE – TETON VALLEY, IDAHO
GRAND TARGHEE SPORTS & RENTAL SHOPS carry apparel, downhill & Nordic skis, snowboards, and accessories for adults and children. 1-800-TARGHEE, rentals—307-353-2300 PG 48
PEAKED SPORTS Alpine, Tele, AT, XC and Skate skis plus
Snowboards. Personal, friendly, expert service. Backcountry info.
Sales, rentals, demos. Overnight tunes and repairs. 208-354-2354,
www.peakedsports.com. PG 51
YOSTMARK MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT A full-service backcountry &
Nordic specialty shop. We offer guided ski tours and provide a full line
of rentals to insure the best tools and information for a quality outdoor experience. Downtown Driggs. 208-354-2828. PG 51
VICTOR EMPORIUM Sporting goods & Old Fashioned soda fountain.
Large selection of outdoor gear, sunglasses, hats, shoes, gifts, t-shirts
& jewelry. Merrell, Cloudveil, Carhartt, SmartWool, Smith, Sportif,
Dansko, Native Eyewear, Maui Jim. Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221.
PG 51
JACKSON–TETON VILLAGE–WILSON
CLOUDVEIL MOUNTAIN WORKS Our Flagship store features the
full range of our innovative outdoor apparel, all designed & tested in our hometown of Jackson. From versatile soft shells to
authentic casual styles. 120 W Pearl, www.cloudveil.com 739-3930
PG 23
HOBACK SPORTS Featuring the latest Wintersteiger tuning
machines. Overnight repairs, full ski & snowboard rental shop,
retail sales of major brands, specializing in expert boot-fitting.
Located in Jackson at 520 W. Broadway. 733-5335 PG 4
HOLE IN THE WALL SNOWBOARD SHOP Teton Village's original
Snowboard Shop. Boards and Demos from Burton, Option,
Nidecker, & Lib Tech. Technical outerwear from Arc’teryx, Burton,
686, Roxy and more, upstairs in the Bridger Center at the base of
the gondola. 307-739-2689. PG 29
JACK DENNIS OUTDOOR SHOP The finest outerwear & hard
goods for the whole family. Complete rental department, performance demos, overnight repair. Located in Teton Village 7336838 & on the town square 733-3270 PG 33
JACKSON HOLE SPORTS THE mountain ski shop. We stock
Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, Spyder, Eider, Fischer, Rossignol, K2,
Salomon, Dynastar, and more. Full service mountainside rental
shop & experienced repair, tuning & boot-fitting services.
Located in the Bridger Center at the base of the gondola. 307739-2687 PG 29
JOLLY JUMBUCK LEATHERS Since 1973 Jackson’s original
Shearling store is the locals favorite for shearlings, leathers, and
furs. Jackets, vests, belts, wallets, handbags, jewelry travel bags,
gloves, scarves, jewelry and more. 20 W. Broadway, jollyjumbuckleathers.com 733-6562 PG 2
LOWRIDER BOARD SHOP Jackson’s only authorized Burton demo
center. Decks & boots by Northwave, Burton, Salomon & Atomic.
Clothes by Burton & Sessions. Tunes by Grindrite. Downstairs in the
Pepi Stiegler Sports Plaza,Teton Village. 733-4505 PG 33
80
JAC KS O N H O L E S K I E R 2 0 0 9
SKIS & CLIMBING SKINS
CUSTOM MADE – FACTORY DIRECT
JACKSON HOLE
CLIMBING SKINS DIRECT Manufacturer, designer and online
retailer of climbing skins. Ours are the best gliding, lightest, most
packable skins on the market. Super durable skins for factory
direct prices. ClimbingSkinsDirect.com PG 59
IGNEOUS Custom Skis, hand-crafted in Jackson Hole. 734-8788
www.igneousskis.com PG 61
CHILD & TEEN SERVICES
JACKSON HOLE KIDS RANCH Located in the Cody House at
JHMR. Infant & child care: ages 6 month-years. Ski/snowboard
programs for ages 3-17 years. Kids Ranch participants experience
Fort Wyoming, an outdoor playground with a Magic Carpet surface lift. Teen camps available during Christmas, President's Week
and Spring Break. 307-739-2788.PG 29
KIDS CLUB at Grand Targhee Resort has a variety of programs for
children from infants to age 14. Baby sitting by appointment. PG 48
GIFTS & GROCERIES
JACKSON
JH RESORT STORE The official logo store of JH Mountain Resort,
the source for logo apparel and gifts. Located on the town
square, it is the in-town connection for lift tickets, snow conditions and activities. 734-6045 PG 29
DORNAN’S GIFT SHOP In the Moose Village, Grand Teton
National Park. 733-2415, ext 301 PG 16
DORNAN’S TRADING POST Gourmet cheeses & specialty foods,
full grocery, 24 hour gas available. ATM 733-2415, ext 201; In the
Moose Village, Grand Teton National Park. PG 16
ICE SKATING
SNOW KING CENTER at the base of Snow King Ski Area offers
indoor daily public skating. For an updated schedule and prices
call 734-3000 PG 45
OWEN BIRCHER PARK Outdoor public rink, illuminated 6-10 p.m.
nightly, downtown Wilson 733-5056.
JEWELRY – ART – WATCHES
DANSHELLEY JEWELERS Wearable works of art created by
Dan & Shelley, plus other designers using gold & gems. From
diamonds to elk ivory & Teton charms. Gaslight Alley, just off
the town square. 733-2259 PG 5
HINES GOLDSMITHS Jackson’s premiere gallery of fine jewelry
designers since 1970. Elegant one-of-a-kind pieces, diamonds &
colored stones. The original Teton pendants & rings, & charms of
the area. 80 Center Street, east side of town square. 307-733-5599
PG 15
HINES GOLDSMITHS Authorized dealer of fine Swiss Watches:
CARTIER, CHOPARD, BAUME & MERCIER, TAG HEUER, SWISS
Photos: Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy – Chris Newson-top left; Yellowstone National Park, left; Mountaineering in the Tetons, top right; Yellowstone snowcoach trip, right
MERRELL For over 25 years Merrell® has been
providing outdoor enthusiasts with quality performance footwear for their active and after
sport pursuits. Available at Hoback Sports,
Jackson Bootlegger, and Teton Village Sports.
pg 39
PEPI STIEGLER SPORTS The most exclusive collection of high performance skis and skiwear
for the distinguishing resort shopper. Offering
quality service, attention to detail and the best
tune in Jackson Hole. Find us in teton Village
in the big white building next to Teton
Mountain Lodge. 733-45045 PG 33
PETER GLEN SKI & SPORTS Huge selection
of ski & snowboard clothing equipment &
accessories for men, women, & children,
including Spyder, Obermeyer, Bogner, Burton,
K2 & more! PG 78
POWDERHORN IS BACK A true ski brand with
genuine mountain heritage, Powderhorn relaunches this winter with an authentic line
designed with the same spirit originally founded in 1972. www.powderhornworld.com PG 21
TETON VILLAGE SPORTS Jackson Hole’s largest
ski & snowboard rental & demo center. Online
reservations. Völkl, Tecnica, Head, Rossignol,
Salomon, Marker, The North Face, Arcteryx,
Cloudveil, Bogner, Black Diamond,Patagonia,
and Arbor. Custom footbeds, repair shop, In the
Crystal Springs Lodge. 733-2181. PG 88
WILSON BACKCOUNTRY SPORTS Sales and
rentals of Telemark, Randonee gear & snowshoes. Quality gear from K2, Black Diamond,
Fritschi, Scarpa & Garmont. Free backcountry
info. Located in Wilson at the base of Teton Pass,
10 minutes from Jackson and Teton Village. 307733-5228 PG 57
WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape
photography of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95
West Deloney. 307-733-8877 PG 67
REAL ESTATE
JACKSON HOLE
3 CREEK RANCH Stunning 710 acre community with private
Rees Jones golf course, 3 world-class creeks, Clubhouse & fitness center, 3 unique ownership opportunities. 307-739-9292,
888-920-9292 PG 6
SERVICES & INFORMATION
AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664
see story PAGE 66
FOCUSPRODUCTIONS.COM Subscribe to our magazines, order
posters & photography. Read the online editions of Jackson Hole
Skier, Mountain Country Summer Visitors Guide, & the Jackson
Hole Dining Guide. focusproductions.com.
GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300
INTERNET ACCESS POINTS Snake River Brewery-Free WiFi 7392337; Drive Design 733-7475; Hard Drive Cafe 733-5282;
Mountunes Internet Cafe 733-4514, RMO Cafe 734-9438.
JACKSON HOLE & GREATER YELLOWSTONE VISITORS’ CENTER on North Cache Street in Jackson has information on all activities in the area. Mon-Fri 8:00-5:00, Sat-Sun 10-2 pm. or call the
JACKSON HOLE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 733-3316
JACKSON HOLE GUEST SERVICE CENTER located next to the
tram, has information on mountain , valley activities & events,
daily snow & weather conditions, Vertical Foot Club, Lost &
Found. 739-2753 PG 29
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN HOSTS Complimentary Mountain orientation tours leave from the front of Walk Festival Hall in Teton
GUIDES❄SLED DOGS❄HELI–SKI❄SNOWMOBILING
Village at 9:30 am daily. Hosts can answer
questions & assist with anything from airline
schedules to off mountain activities. 739-2697
PG 29
JACKSON HOLE TICKET HOSTS at the JHMR
are stationed outside the ticket office to help
answer questions and acclimate skiers and visitors to Teton Village and the mountain. PG 29
JACKSON HOLE SKI CLUB Since 1938 has
provided a ski education foundation for
Alpine, Nordic & Snowboard junior racers. For
discounts on local services & merchandise,
buy a membership at local ski shops. 733-6433
LOST OR STOLEN SKIS should be reported
to the Sheriff’s Office 733-4052 or through
the Guest Service Center, 739-2753.
SUBLETTE COUNTY VISITOR CENTER Better
Than Yellowstone! Leave the crowds behind
and discover a wild & remote country surrounded by 3 mountain ranges, abundant
snow & wildlife. 1-888-285-7282 PG 53
SKI & SNOWBOARD STORAGE & LOCKERS
Leave your gear at the mountain, convenient
lockers & basket check available at the
Bridger Center. 739-2755 PG 29
TETON COUNTY LIBRARY has 50,000 books
including a skiing and mountain climbing section, periodicals, newspapers, historical information and photographs. M-Th 10-9, Fri 10-5:30, Sat 10-5, Sun 1-5. Closed legal holidays. Corner of Snow King & Virginian Lane. 733-2164
TETON VALLEY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Downtown Driggs,
Idaho. 208-354-2500
US POST OFFICE: Teton Village: M-F 9:30-4, Sat 9-12, 733-3575; In
Jackson: New P.O.-corner of Powderhorn Ln & Maple Way; Old
P.O.-corner of Pearl Av & Millward St. 733-3650.
YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381
SKI MOUNTAINEERING,
AVALANCHE INFORMATION,
GUIDE SERVICES
AVALANCHE HAZARD & WEATHER FORECAST 307-733-2664
see story PAGE 66
GRAND TARGHEE GUIDES Guided snowcat trips to Peaked
Mountain, mountain tours, X-C, backcountry, and alpine tours, 1800-TARGHEE PG 48
JACKSON HOLE ALPINE GUIDES Lead you to untracked powder
& guide you down challenging runs & through the backcountry.
Call Jackson Hole Mountain Sports School, 307-739-2663. PG 29
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968. Join JHMG for a
day of untracked powder & solitude. Novice to expert ski tours,
Teton ski mountaineering, Level 1,2 & 3 avalanche courses & ice
climbing. AMGA accredited. www.jhmg.com 307-733-4979 PG 57
RENDEZVOUS BACKCOUNTRY TOURS Operates the only hut
system in the Tetons, allowing you an unparalleled backcountry
experience with our professional guides. Since 1986. Daily Tours
for all abilities in Grand Teton Park & Teton Pass. 877-754-4887
www.SkiTheTetons.com PG 59
SNOW KING MOUNTAIN GUIDES We conduct trips off the back
of Snow King and Teton Pass for both Nordic and alpine skiers.
734-3030 PG 45
YOSTMARK MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT A full-service backcountry &
Nordic specialty shop. We offer guided ski tours & provide a full line
of rentals to insure the best tools & information for a quality outdoor experience. Downtown Driggs. 208-354-2828 PG 51
views & wildlife. Age 12 yrs. & up.
Transportation, airport drop-off avail. 307-7331980, 800-563-6469 PG 73
HIGH COUNTRY SNOWMOBILE TOURS Day &
multi-day tours to Yellowstone, Togwotee, Gros
Ventre, Granite Hot Springs, & Greys River.
Breakfast & hot lunch, clothing, transportation.
An experience of a lifetime. 733-5017, 800-5240130. PG 75
JACKSON HOLE SNOWMOBILE TOURS Over
20 years of family guided tours. Yellowstone,
Granite Hot Springs, Togwotee Pass &
Continental Divide. Current model powder & 4stroke snowmobiles, experience makes the difference. 733-6850, 800-633-1733 PG 73
LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS We can
make snowmobiling simple for you. See us for
any winter activity - in the Mangy Moose, Teton
Village. 733-1617 PG 75
ROCKY MOUNTAIN SNOWMOBILE TOURS Day
& multi-day tours of Yellowstone, Gros Ventre,
Togwotee, Granite Hot Springs & Greys River.
Day tours include breakfast, lunch & transportation.
733-2237
800-647-2561.
email:
full service X-C operation, with 10 KM of machine groomed trails
and track. Full & half day tours into Grand Teton National Park.
Rentals, clinic & lessons. 307-739-2629. PG 29
NORDIC CENTERS Six maintained tracks and centers are open to
the public in the Jackson Hole & Yellowstone area. See PAGE 19
TUBE PARKS-TERRAIN PARKS
KING TUBES SNOW TUBING PARK A popular wild ride for fun
lovers of all ages. Let our lift pull you up, then gravity takes control of your own giant snow tube for the ride of your life. At
Snow King Resort. 307-734-TUBE PG 45
GRAND TARGHEE TUBING PARK At the base of Targhee Resort 1800-TARGHEE PG 48
JACKSON HOLE MOUTAIN RESORT On Aprés Vous Mountain, has
a 450’ supperpipe, terrain Park. PG 29
SNOW KING HALF PIPE & TERRAIN PARK for snowboarders,
served by 2 chairlifts. 307-733-2020 PG 45
HELI & CAT–SKIING
ALASKA RENDEZVOUS LODGE & HELI GUIDES, a full-service
lodge, operates out of Valdez, Alaska from March 1 through
September, offering full-service guides for Heli-skiing, whitewater
rafting & fishing. 307-734-0721, 907-822-3300 PG 70
GRAND TARGHEE SNOWCAT POWDER ADVENTURES 500 acres
reserved for Snow Cat skiing at Grand Targhee Resort 1-800TARGHEE PG 48
HIGH MOUNTAIN HELI-SKIING flies skiers into the mountains
around Jackson Hole for day-long powder-skiing excursions for
intermediate to expert skiers. 733-3274 PG 71
TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN LODGE Premier
Snowmobile location. Guided & unguided tours, rentals available,
package rates. Featuring trips to Yellowstone & Togwotee Pass.
Cabins, lodge rooms & suites. 307-543-2847 or 800-543-2847,
TRIANGLE C RANCH TOURS Multi-day trips on the Continental
Divide Trail. Polaris powder machines, clothing included, transportation available. Lodging, snowmobile from your cabin. 800661-4928 PG 16
SLED DOG ADVENTURES
JACKSON HOLE IDITAROD SLED DOG ADVENTURES Half & full
day trips into the Teton backcountry & Granite Hot Springs. Learn
mushing first hand, drive your own sled team. Meals, transportation, supplemental clothing provided. 307-733-7388 [email protected] PG 77
TRANSPORTATION – AIR & GROUND
GRAND TARGHEE EXPRESS Daily transportation from Jackson
Hole & Teton Village to Grand Targhee. PG 48 & 75
LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS Targhee Express Bus. 733-1617
See Alpine Skiing & Snowmobiling. PG 75
NEW FLIGHT CHARTERS With a corporate office in Jackson, we
are a premium private jet charter brokerage providing ondemand charter flights not only for Jackson Hole, but worldwide.
For more information, visit www.JHAirCharters.com or call (307)
734-7751. PG 63
START BUS Jackson to Teton Village – Schedules , routes & fares are
available at bus stops, lodgings & information centers. 733-4521
SKI & SNOWBOARD RESORTS
GRAND TARGHEE RESORT On the west side of the Tetons 1-800TARGHEE PG 48
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT 307-733-2292; snow conditions 307-733-2291/1-888-DEE-PSNO see PG 29
NIGHT SKIING AT SNOW KING RESORT Tuesday-Saturday
until 8:00pm. Hourly tickets available. Ski report hot line 7342020 PG 45
SNOW KING SKI RESORT Full-day, 1/2 day & 2-hour lift tickets
available. Located in the town of Jackson. 307-733-5200 PG 45
WHITE PINE SKI AREA & RESORT 307-367-6606 PG 52
SKI & SNOWBOARD SCHOOLS
GRAND TARGHEE SNOWSPORTS SCHOOL is under the direction
of Mark Hanson.1-800-TARGHEE (827-4433) PG 48
THE GREAT AMERICAN SKI SCHOOL at Snow King Resort is
under the direction of Bill Briggs. A unique down to earth
approach to ski instruction. 734-3030 PG 45
JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOL Under the direction
of Brian Maguire. The complete mountain experience with children's programs, Alpine guides, snowboarding, private instruction,
specialty camps, telemark, & adaptive skiing. 307-739-2663 PG 29
NORDIC SKI CENTERS
GRAND TARGHEE NORDIC CENTER Offers 15 KM of groomed and
skating lanes. GrandTarghee.com 1-800-TARGHEE PG 48
JACKSON HOLE NORDIC CENTER Located in Teton Village, it is a
LLAMA LOUIE’S RESERVATIONS Snowcat skiing at Grand
Targhee can be the ultimate powder experience. The Targhee
Express will get you there. See us for any winter activity - in the
Mangy Moose, Teton Village. 733-1617 PG 75
TOGWOTEE MOUNTAIN SNOWCAT ADVENTURES Explore the
backcounty with the only snowcat ski operation in Jackson Hole.
Steeps, tight trees, open meadows, tons of snow, and the best
views in the area. Located on Togwotee Pass. Call for reservations. 1-800-543-2847; 307-543-2847 PG 71
SNOWMOBILING
BEST ADVENTURES Your best guided adventure of Yellowstone,
no experience necessary. Hot breakfast & hot lunch at Old
Faithful. New 4-stroke sleds, & warm clothing provided, double
riders. 307-733-4845, 800-851-0827 PG 73
GRAND TETON PARK SNOWMOBILE RENTAL Unguided snowmobile rentals into both National. parks or Togwotee Mt. Your
schedule,your pace, 1/2 day specials. Clothing included. Teton
WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS
SLEIGH RIDES — TOURS
NATIONAL ELK REFUGE SLEIGH RIDES View elk, mule deer, coyotes, eagles, bison, & more, while riding a horse drawn sleigh thru
the National Elk Refuge. Departs from the JH visitor’s center. 532
N Cache 307-733-0277; 1-800-772-5386 PG 18
WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides
year-round wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to
anyone interested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater
Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat.
www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 307-733-2623 PG 11
YELLOWSTONE SNOWCOACH TOURS
YELLOWSTONE SNOWCOACH EXCURSIONS TRIANGLE C
RANCH Ride in the luxurious comfort of an over-the-snow Ford
Excursion. Breakfast & Lunch. Experienced & knowledgeable
guides. Private trips available. 800-661-4928 PG 16
81
Bob Woodall
Lodging Directory
Alpenhof Lodge
The European-style Alpenhof Lodge is located next to the tram in Teton Village. The
Alpenhof is known for friendly professional
service, cozy rooms and creative Swiss
cuisine. Many rooms feature fireplaces
and/or balconies and everyone enjoys a
complimentary breakfast to start the day.
Each of the three western-style lodges at
Grand Targhee are located within steps of the
lifts. Ski, board or hike “home” to the Targhee
or Teewinot Lodges, or the Sioux Lodge
suites. We also offer a wide range of condominiums, vacation homes and townhomes a
short distance away.
P.O. Box 288, Teton Village, WY 83025
1-800-732-3244
www.alpenhoflodge.com
[email protected]
Alta, Wyoming 83001
1-800-TARGHEE
www.GrandTarghee.com
Dornanʼs
Spur Ranch Cabins
Homewood Suites
by Hilton®
On the banks of the Snake River in Moose,
Wyoming, we are surrounded by Grand Teton
National Park and have stunning views of the
Tetons. We are also within easy driving distance of Yellowstone National Park (45 miles)
and the town of Jackson (12 miles). X-C ski or
snowshoe from your cabin door.
The new Homewood Suites by Hilton® is located just off the Town Square. From our
hotel, you'll have easy access to all that Jackson Hole has to offer, from world class snow
sports to eclectic shopping, galleries and
restaurants. Free airport & ski shuttle.
Grand Teton National Park, Moose, WY
307-733-2522
www.dornans.com
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Homewood Suites
Hostel
Inn On The Creek
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Lodge At Pinedale
Painted Buffalo Inn
Snake River Lodge & Spa
Snow King Resort
Terra Resort Group
Togowtee Mountain Lodge
Town Square Inns
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260 N Millward, Jackson, Wyoming 83001
Tel: 1-307-739-0808 Fax: 1-307-739-9899
www.Jacksonwy.Homewoodsuites.com
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Hostel
We make it cheaper and easier for you to ski
the legendary Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
while staying slopeside. Filled to the rafters
with ambiance, we offer both private rooms
with private bathrooms, and the chance to
mingle with your fellow travelers, Hostelstyle.1 or 2 persons $109, 3 or 4 Persons $119.
Teton Village, Wyoming 83025
307-733-3415
www.thehostel.us, [email protected]
Inn On The Creek
Ideally located 3 blocks from Jackson’s Historic
Town Square and open year round, Inn on the
Creek offers sumptuously decorated rooms. A
homemade signature breakfast is served each
morning at the Inn’s beautiful common table
where lively conversation is always plentiful. A
perfect start to any day.
295 North Millward
Jackson, Wyoming, 83001
Tel: 1-307-739-1565 Fax: 1-307-734-9116
www.innonthecreek.com
Jackson Hole
Resort Lodging
Snake River
Lodge & Spa
Snake River Lodge & Spa, a RockResort, is
Jackson’s first AAA Four Diamond Slopeside
Lodge. Enjoy the ease of slope-side lodging.
Indulge yourself in the 17,000 sq. ft. Avanyu
Spa with an indoor/outdoor swimming pool.
Enjoy entertainment in Fireside Lounge and
dining in the GameFish Restaurant.
7710 Granite Loop, Teton Village, WY 83025
307-732-6000
www.snakeriverlodge.com
Snow King Resort
Nestled at the base of Snow King Mountain, six
blocks from Jackson Hole's historic Town
Square, Snow King Resort offers 204 hotel
rooms and 1 to 4 bedroom condos in a comfortable, elegant Western style. Full-service property with restaurant, lounge, pool, hot tub, spa,
ski rental shop and free wi-fi. On property: skiing,
night skiing, snow tube park and ice skating.
P.O. Box SKI, Jackson, Wyoming 83001
800-552-KING / 307-733-5200
www.snowking.com
Terra Resort Group
We offer the largest number of Jackson Hole
vacation lodging rental properties in Teton
Village, as well as condo rentals and homes
at The Aspens and Teton Pines. Whether
you’re looking for traditional Jackson Hole
mountain charm or a more luxurious lodging
experience, we have it all.
3 distinct lodges offer something for everyone.
Eco-luxury Hotel Terra: Terra Café for breakfast & lunch, Italian Osteria, “Chill Spa,” Elegant Teton Mountain Lodge & Spa: 12,000 sq
ft. Solitude Spa, pools, hot tubs, fitness center and Cascade restaurant for all meals and
après ski. Affordable and comfortable Inn at
Jackson Hole.
McCollister Drive, Teton Village, WY 83025
800-443-8613 Fax: 307-734-1077
www.jhrl.com, [email protected]
Teton Village, Wyoming
www.terraresortgroup.com
800-631-6271
The Lodge At Pinedale
Togwotee Mountain Lodge
Located on west end of Pinedale. Refrigerator & microwave in every room. Children 12 &
under free with adult. Guest laundry. Front
desk staffed 24 hours. Indoor pool & jacuzzi.
Three story motel with inside hallway access
to rooms. Open year round with 43 rooms
and up to 150 guests. Complimentary guest
voice mail and DSL in every room.
Host for the only snow-cat skiing operation in
Jackson Hole. Angle Mountain, located directly behind the lodge provides1600 vertical
on 750 acres of terrain. Stay in main lodge or
cabins with kitchenettes. One-stop shop for
winter fun, including dog sledding & snowmobile tours in the national forest and parks. All
inclusive packages or ala carte.
P.O. Box 91, Moran, WY 83013
866-278-4245 / 307-534-2847
www.togwoteelodge.com
[email protected]
1054 W Pine, Pinedale WY, 82941
1-866-995-6343 or 307-367-8800
www.lodgeatpinedale.com
Painted Buffalo Inn
Town Square Inns
Discover why the West is wild with adventure.
All of Wyoming’s winter activities await you and
the Painted Buffalo Inn, just 3 blocks from the
Jackson Town Square, will be there to warm
you after a day of snow-filled adventure. Swimming pool, sauna and shuttle stop are just a
few of the conveniences we offer our guests.
Our 4 lodging properties, Antler Inn, 49er Inn &
Suites, Elk Country Inn and Cowboy Village,
are in the heart of downtown Jackson. From
beautiful 2-room log cabins, to fireplace suites,
to hotel rooms, we have accommodations to fit
every desire & budget. Located just off the
town square, we are within walking distance of
the many fine attractions that Jackson, Grand
Teton & Yellowstone parks have to offer.
400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001
800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340
www.paintedbuffaloinn.com
[email protected]
330 W Pearl, Jackson, WY 83001
1-800-4-TETONS / 307-733-7550
www.townsquareinns.com
83
Grand Teton
13,770 ft.
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Big T h
Swee
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id
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es
Drea m w e
Wa
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SH
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Nordic
Area
i
Nasty Gash
Wild
Tur
ke
y
North Boundary Traverse
Guided
Catskiing Area
Te
Patrol Chute
Instructors
Chute
The East Woods
ef Joseph Bowl
Chi
Powder
Area
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se
Hor
zy
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W
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Ga
rd
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Pa
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Gr
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T h e Fa c e
S i tti
Ro
ck
The Good
st
The Ugly
OOT
BLACKF
Skiable acres: 1,000 plus
Vertical rise: 2,000 ft
Longest run: 3.2 miles
B
rse
ave
Arrowhead
Snowcat Skiing on
Peaked Mountain
Lo
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The Bad
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2-High Speed Quad Chair, 1-Quad chair,
1 double chair, 1 magic carpet.
se
aver
Tr
Floyd's Fantasy
Ski Lifts
Peaked Mt.
Elevation 9,700 ft.
i
Lost
Warri
or
Lift serviced terrain: 2,000 acres, 10% beginner,
70% intermediate, 20% advanced.
Vertical rise: 2,000 ft. Longest run: 2.5 miles.
Base elevation: 8,000 ft.
Top elevation: 10,000 ft.
Average annual snowfall: 42 ft. (504 inches).
500 acres groomed terrain.
South Teton
12,514 ft.
Middle Teton
12,804 ft.
Fred's Mt.
Elevation 10,000 ft.
Mountain Characteristics
Powde
rR
GRAND TARGHEE
RESORT
Mount Owen
12,928 ft.
an
Cre e k Traverse
RESORT FACILITIES
Base Elevation 8,000 ft.
Nordic
Area
SNOW KING
SKI AREA
Skiable terrain: 400 plus acres, 15% beginner,
25% intermediate, 60% advanced.
Vertical rise: 1,571 ft. Longest run: 9/10 mile.
Base Elevation: 6,300 ft.
Top elevation 7,871 ft. 300 acres of machine
groomed terrain.
• Night Skiing.
• KingTubes Snow Tubing Park.
• Half Pipe & Terrain Park
Ski Lifts
1 triple chair,
2 double chairs
1 surface tow.
WHITE PINE SKI AREA
& RESORT
Lift serviced terrain: 380 acres,
20% beginner,
60% intermediate,
20% advanced.
Vertical rise: 1,100 ft.
Longest run: 1.5 miles.
Base elevation: 8,400 ft.
Top elevation: 9,500 ft.
Average annual snowfall: 250 inches.
Ski Lifts
2-Triple Chairs, 1-Surface Lift
84
JACKSON HOLE
MOUNTAIN
RESORT
Mountain
Characteristics
Skiable terrain: 2,500 acres,
10% beginner, 40% intermediate,
50% advanced.
Base elevation 6,311 ft.
Summit elevation: 10,450 ft.
Vertical rise: 4,139 ft. (longest
continuous in the country).
Longest run: 4.7 miles.
Average annual snowfall:
38 feet (456 inches).
22 miles of machine groomed
terrain.
Ski Lifts
1 100-passenger Aerial Tram
1 eight-passenger gondola,
6 quad chairs (2 high speed)
2 triple chairs,
2 double chair
1 magic carpet surface lift
85
©
HOME RANCH
County
PA R K I N G Teton
Recreation
LOT
Center
7
8
S T. J O H N ' S
H O S P I TA L
x
MORAN
JACKSON 10
TOWN 11
SQUARE
EAST BROADWAY
JACKSON
TOWN HALL
Q r COUNTY JAIL
QTETON
qCOUNTYÎ SHERIFF'S OFFICE
SIMPSON AVE
REDMOND ST.
GROS VENTRE
JEAN ST
15
17
COURT HOUSE
HANSEN AVE
HALL AVE
KELLY AVE
VIN
E
WILLOW
KARNS AVE
C A C H E
21
PHIL BAUX PARK
RA
ICE
SKATING
RINK
S N O W K I N G AV E
SNOW KING
23 R E S O R T
T
LIF
AIR
CH
IT
MM
a
T
CHA
IR L
a
LE
SU
SNOW KING
CENTER
& ICE RINK
T R IP
IF T
START BUS STOPS
Schedules, Routes, Stops & Fares
are available at Bus Stops, Lodgings, &
Information Centers, or call 733-4521.
22
GAR
KING
TUBE
TUBING
PARK
IF
IRL
HA
YC
RT
FFE
ASPEN DR.
COU
TO W N
PA R K I N G
LOT
KING
T o: HOBACK & ALPINE JCTS.,
PINEDALE,
ROCK SPRINGS,
SALT LAKE CITY
KING
CENTER
START Bus
offices &
Jackson
Public Works
MAP NOT TO SCALE
© 2006 Focus Productions Inc.
U. S. FOREST
SERVICE
18
SOUTH CACHE
••• 35
NORTH CACHE
TETON COUNTY
LIBRARY
GLENWOOD
M A P L E WAY
Ï
WEST KARNS
Teton County
Fair & Rodeo
Grounds
MEADOWLARK LN
89
26
191
189
•••
WYOMING
ELEVATION: 6,209 FEET
1,892 METERS
Jackson Hole &
Greater
Ye l l o w s t o n e
Visitors’
Center
KELLY AVE
OFFICE
33
•••
•••
MILLWARD
½
U.S. POST
JACKSON
31
ALPINE LN
POWDERHORN SMITH LN
PARK
CLISSOLD
86
R OAD
IVE
34
Smith’s
H IGH SCHOOL
•••
K-MART
Jackson
Whole Grocer
•••
SCOTT LN
K
Albertsons
POWDERHORN
R
PA
H
UT AD
SO RO
ALO WAY
FF
•••
WYO
22
MARTIN LN
TO: 3 CREEK
RANCH
32
BU
T o: TETON VILLAGE,
JACKSON HOLE
MOUNTAIN RESORT,
WILSON,
JH RACQUET CLUB,
TETON PINES,
VICTOR & DRIGGS,
GRAND TARGHEE
IDAHO FALLS
Y
WEST. BROADWA
CREEK D
R
30
CREEK RANCH
JACKSON
Meeting Place for
National Elk Refuge
Sleigh Rides
½
VIRGINIAN LANE
•••
LODGING
89 To: GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE
Antler Motel – 20
26
NATIONAL PARKS
Cowboy Village Resort – 27
191
JACKSON HOLE AIRPORT
189
Elk Country Inn – 26
TOGWOTEE PASS
49er Inn – 28
Homewood Suites Hilton – 2
Inn on the Creek – 1
PERRY ST
Painted Buffalo Inn – 24
TETON COUNTY
Snow King Resort – 23
HISTORICAL CENTER
MERCELL
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
1
DD Camera Corral – 17
2
GILL AVE
Wild By Nature Gallery – 4
RECREATION
MILLER
PARK
3
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides – 3
5
King Tube Tubing Park – 22
4
K
JH MUSEUM
6
EE
Snow King Center & Ice Rink – 22
DELONEY AVE
R
C
Snow King Mountain – 22
9
AT
SKI & SPORTING GOODS SHOPS
FL
Hoback Sports – 25
•• WEST. BROADWAY
Jack Dennis Sports – 15
•
14
12
24
13
SNOWMOBILING
High Country Snowmobiling – 33
PEARL AVE
16
Jackson Hole
••• 26
$ BANK
19
20
28
Snowmobile Tours – 30
TO W N
U.S. POST
25 27
PA R K I N G
Rocky Mountain Tours – 33
OFFICE
Center
LOT
For
Togwotee Snowmobile – 35
The
29
Arts
T
FLA
APPAREL
Cloudveil Mountain Works – 19
Hoback Sports – 25
Jolly Jumbuck Leather – 14
Jack Dennis Outdoor Shop – 15
ART - JEWELRY - GIFTS -HOME
DanShelley Jewelers – 6
Hines Goldsmiths – 10
Jackson Hole Resort Store – 11
JC Jewelers – 8
DINING & ENTERTAINMENT
The Atrium
@ Snow King Resort – 23
Billy's Giant Hamburgers – 9
The Bunnery – 7
Cadillac Grille – 9
Cafe Ponza – 13
43 North – 21
Gun Barrel Steak &
Game House – 31
Jackson Hole Buffalo Meats – 34 & 5
The Lounge
@ Snow King Resort – 23
McDonald's of Jackson Hole – 32
Mountain High Pizza – 12
Snake River Brewery – 29
Sweetwater Restaurant – 18
Teton Steakhouse – 16 TO: SPRING
SNOW KING
MOUNTAIN & SKI AREA
C R E E K
D R
Celebrating over 24 years,
conveniently located on
the town square. Serving
Black Angus steaks, game,
fresh seafood and pasta.
Innovative dishes
prepared with the
freshest ingredients
makes the Cadillac Grille
a local favorite.
The CADILLAC GRILLE
Premium well drinks, an
excellent wine list and
microbrews. Join us
nightly in our lounge for
Happy Hour 5-7 p.m.
733-3279. Reservations advised. Large groups are welcome
Open daily at 11:30 a.m., dinner at 5:30 p.m.
www.cadillac-grille.com email: [email protected]
On the Town Square, next to Billy’s Giant Hamburger
307.733.4159
800.543.6328
Smith’s
MADE IN
JACKSON HOLE
oop
We’re a Jackson Hole
MUST-SEE! Try free HHig
Highh Schhhooll Rd
samples in our factory
store on Highway 89 at
Smith’s Plaza.
Buffalo & Elk
Steak Pack
100% Natural
Hoback
100% Natural
uar
e
n
er t
Alb
Park L
Hwy 89
Sou
th
Sq
Tow
Hwy
22
’s
s on
. . . and don’t
forget our NEW
RETAIL STORE
in Gaslight Alley
across from
Jackson Town
Square
Buffalo Filet
100% Natural
Trapper-Style
Buffalo Jerky
100% Natural
www.buybuffalomeat.com
call 800.543.6328 for a free catalog
87
Wade McKoy / John Verdon