montage October05 - Le Club Alpin du Canada, Section Montréal
Transcription
montage October05 - Le Club Alpin du Canada, Section Montréal
MONTAGE The Alpine Club of Canada / Le Club Alpin du Canada—Montréal Section Vol. 63 No. 3 October 2005 “Pelerinage “by Paul Gregoire—Overall Photo Contest Winner 2005 Photo Contest Winners Mt Colden via the Trap Dyke in Winter!!! Hiking & Scrambling in the Rockies GMC 2005 Fantastic photos that inspire! Pages 16-17 Ski House News May be its last year Page 5 Oooh Crickey!!! Page 18 AGM 2005 Melville/Battle Range. Selkirk Mountains Page 27 Thursday December 1st from 6 pm See back page to send off for your place! Back Page Outings Schedule My last issue as Editor! A Week in the Cascades A fun packed season ahead Pages 11-14 (Bless Me!!!!!!!) This issue! Andrew & Stephan Browns trip Page 22 A classic trip Page 20 Fo r m o re cl u b i n f o g o t o : w w w. a c c m o n t re a l . c a CLUB VOLUNTEERS: PLEASE MAY WE HAVE SOME MORE? It’s great to have everyone’s involvement, all ideas & efforts welcome! Don’t be shy, we don’t turn any offers down!!! Always use minimum impact techniques 150 feet—No excuses! How to S*** in the woods Dig a six inch deep “cathole” when you go s*** in the woods, and remember to go at least 150 feet from water sources or trails. Please take your toilet paper home with you. Page 2 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 Editorial [email protected] Hi everybody, Yes, it’s my last issue as Editor, but there is someone else stepping in my shoes, so keep sending those trip reports! It’s been a fun year being editor & I’ve enjoyed reading all your stories. I got a particularly good response for this issue which was great, & apologies to anyone’s whose work didn’t get put in this issue, there just wasn’t space! I will be handing over everything you sent to the new editor so they can be put into the next Montage. The Montage will continue despite recent confusion. The debate is whether to go electronic with it or keep the paper version. Something I think should be discussed at the AGM where everyone can vote on it. I look forward to seeing you all at the AGM &/or up in the mountains at some point soon!!! Let’s wish for a good snowfall this season!!! Rebecca Smith, Montage Editor [email protected] Alpine Club of Canada Safety Web Site Very Highly Recommended! http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/index.asp The Montage encourages you to support the ACC Planned Giving campaign ACC National Club For information on hut or Canmore clubhouse reservations or anything else call the ACC at (403) 678-3200, ext. 1 Fax (403) 678-3224 E-mail [email protected] Lots of information at our website: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca Montreal Section Video Library Call David Percival for more info 514-481-2435 Montage Page 3 63.1 - February 2005 Montreal Section Alpine Club of Canada Executive Committee Got something to say? E-mail the exec at [email protected] Specific E-mail addresses at: www.accmontreal.ca Chair: Murray Levine 514-633-1533 Past Chair: Susanna Oreskovic 514-708-8221 Secretary: Marjorie Jack 514-880-7039 Treasurer: Susanna Oreskovic 514-708-8221 National Rep: Murray Levine 514-633-1533 Membership: Moira Rehmer 514-342-3244 Webmaster: Andrew Parker 514-489-4923 Socials: Mike Rogers 514-630-5990 Outings: Brian Kinsie 514-554-2188 Courses: Stephane Chamberland 514-421-4784 Environment/Access: Clemence Tatin-Jaleran…….…....514-282-6817 Public Relations: Norbert Cyr 450-358-7703 Newsletter: Rebecca Smith [email protected] Keene Volunteer Coordinator: Dave Gillespie [email protected] Members at Large: Marie Michelle Johnson 450-465-1919 Tom Haslam-Jones 450-672-3415 Keene Farm Committee (MAC Inc.) Dave Gillespie [email protected] Tom Haslam-Jones 450-672-3415 E-mail [email protected] Ski House Committee Ski House e-mail contact: Leslie Robertson [email protected] Eric Lepage Martin Suichies Martin Goldstein Leslie Robertson David Percival Danuta Potworowski Herb Ladd Celestine Segers 514.918.7135 514.747.2828 514.489.4615 514.633.1533 514.481.2435 514.340.1209 514.481.6026 514 489 2842 For other Alpine Club Contact info: - www.accmontreal.ca - ACC Member’s Handbook - 2005 ACC Montreal Section Member Directory (included in February Montage) www.accmontreal.ca Email announcement of Club news Please visit our website and sign up to receive email announcements of club news. This is a moderated, spam-free list. Your email address is never sold to telemarketers! Address changes / Membership Info Please give all address, e-mail & phone information to the club’s membership coordi nat or Moira Rhemer. (514) 342 3244 [email protected] Membership Renewal Check your member card (or Montage address label) for expiry date. Has it expired? Oh No! Don’t let this happen to you. Send in your membership renewal as soon as you receive it. Can’t find the form? Pick one up on the website, at Keene or call our membership coordinator (above). Montage Volume 63.3 - October 2005 The newsletter of the Montreal Section of the Alpine Club of Canada Published 3 times per year In February, June, and October Montage Editor: Rebecca Smith NEXT ISSUE February 2005 Deadline: 15 January Send news, reports, art, photos, etc to: The new editor at: [email protected] Current & back issues are available at our web site www.accmontreal.ca/newsletter.html Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 3 Rapport du Président Au moment où vous lirez ces lignes, vous aurez sans doute déjà constaté que le refuge de Keene a été nettoyé. Merci à tous ceux qui y ont participé à la corvée de nettoyage. Veuillez noter que c’est la responsabilité de chacun des visiteurs de Keene de garder les lieux propres et en ordre. La politique de sans impacts sur l’environnement (Leave No Trace) devrait être mise en application par chacun des membres du CAC. Si vous voyez quelqu’un qui ne respecte pas cette éthique, veuillez ,s’il vous plaît, le signaler au gardien du refuge. Entre-temps, si vous êtes à Keene, veuillez demander à Dave ou à moi-même votre cadeau gratuit si vous avez fait du bénévolat pour le club dans la dernière année, ou encore lorsque vous en ferez (profitez-en tant qu’il y en a encore) Comme toujours, envoyez-moi vos suggestions et commentaires à : Chair- Leave No Trace 7 Principles of Leave No Trace Plan Ahead and Prepare Travel & Camp on Durable Surfaces Dispose of Waste Properly Leave What You Find Minimize Campfire Impacts Respect Wildlife Be Considerate of Other Visitors Leave No Trace en français Récemment, il y a eu 2 tirages au sort pour récompenser et encourager la participation bénévole. J’espère que ces tirages au sort commandités se poursuivront. Report from the Chair By the time that you read this, you may have noticed a cleanup at Keene. Thank you to all that participated. Please note that it is every visitor’s duty to keep our facilities neat and clean. Leave No Trace should be the motto of every ACC member. If you see someone not following this ethic, please bring it to their attention or that of the custodian. Murray Levine S.-v.-p., suivez ces règles lorsque vous pratiquez vos activités de plein air favorites : Planifiez et préparez à l’avance vos sorties Attention à l’érosion : voyagez et campez sur des surfaces non friables. Débarassez-vous des déchets de manière appropriée. Ne déplacez aucune ressources naturelles. Laissez tout sur place. Réduisez l’impact des feux de camp au minimum. (Ils sont interdits dans la région Est des High Peaks.) Respectez la faune. Soyez respectueux des autres visiteurs. www.LNT.org Chairman@accmontreal. ca Recently, there were two snap draws to reward/ encourage volunteerism. I hope that these draws will continue. Meanwhile, while at Keene please ask Dave or myself for your free gift if you have volunteered in the past year, or when you volunteer in the future (while supplies last). Please feel free to email Murray [email protected] As always your suggestions/comments are continually welcomed. Page 4 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 Ski House News Montreal Section Laurentian Ski House (likely) To Close: This is your last chance to save it Every winter for the last 25 or so years, the Montreal Section of the ACC has rented a house in the Laurentian Mountains north of Montreal to serve as a base for cross-country and telemark skiing, as well as ice climbing. However, usage by members has declined in the last few years so that the viability of this venerable institution is in great jeopardy. The 2004/5 winter season was poor in terms of snow and attendance was even worse. The ski house lost ~$2200 last year, which cannot continue. So unless attendance increases this season, the house will, unfortunately, have to close for good. This year we will institute a weekly email on Thursday evening to members describing the local snow and trail conditions. Hopefully this will energize everyone into action. If that is not enough, our fearless leader Murray has offered some very nice prizes to encourage the purchase of passes and overnight stays. You will be hearing details in the coming months. This year, the house is available from Dec 1 until April 15. The remainder of the ski house information is as usual, so read on….looking forward to seeing you all up there! The Ski House: We have kept the house we rented for the last 4 seasons. The ski house is spacious and bright with hardwood floors, six bedrooms, and more sleeping space than you can shake a ski at. There is plenty of room for cooking and the two floors allow some solitude for those who desire it. The basement/laundry (the third floor) is ideal for waxing skis etc. The house is literally a five-minute walk to the grocery store, movie theatre, and the SAQ, and yet still retains a country-like atmosphere. Ski Trails: Municipality of Ste Adele offers a network of well-maintained and groomed cross country ski trails. And best of all, they are free (the only free groomed trails in the Laurentians)! The trailhead is a 5 min walk from the house. Or alternatively, a trail leading to Le petit train du nord is 200 m away at the end of the road by the small downhill ski area. For those who like ice skating, an oval is kept open on Lac Rond, just a short walk from the house. Many winter outings start from the ski house. The entire Laurentians await your skis, snowshoes, or axe and crampons. Fee schedule :The fee schedule remains the same as last season except that children of 2-18 years pay $5/night (last year 7$). The midweek reduction is still in effect. For members the Sunday night – Thursday night rate is $10 and for guests is $15. The blackout periods on the mid-week rate include Ontario and Quebec spring break weeks and the entire Xmas-New Year period (Xmas eve-Monday following New Year). The day use rate is still $2/person. So if you go in to the ski house to warm up, have lunch, have a pre-dinner beer, we ask you to throw $2 in the pot before you leave. Thanks. Custodians: We are continuing to have a host/custodian each high season weekend. This person, we’re looking for volunteers here, will generally spend Friday and Saturday nights at the house. They will welcome people, collect the fees, act as a general resource person and organise a final clean-up on Sunday afternoon. The person is not expected to remain at the house during the day, just to be there early mornings and evenings. This won’t be an arduous task, but you will be rewarded by free accommodation (or if you have a pass, a free meal). Volunteers can call Martin Goldstein at 514-489-4615. Saturday night meals: Again, we have organised group meals on Saturday night. This is a way of introducing and including new ski house attendees and also makes a small amount of money to support the house. The meals are also organised to avoid a potential crush of people cooking their own food at dinner time. If you do not want to partake in the meal, your meal should be prepared either before or after the group meal. Finally, the meals are just stupendous and are a big draw to the ski house. The schedule is shown elsewhere in this report. While every attempt will be made to keep to this list of meals, if you just have to attend one particular meal, you should call the organiser, a ski house committee member, or check the web site. We realize that the meal price saw some inflation last year. However we promise to claw that back to be a maximum of $12/person. For that price, this is a great deal. But there is a catch, you should be prepared to help out in the preparation in some small way. “Reservations”: Last year there were some times when the house felt rather full. On those mid-winter Saturday nights it is in everyone’s interest that the sleeping spaces be as optimized as possible. The custodian will be overseeing this to make sure everyone gets a good night’s rest. Visitors are encouraged to e-mail their intentions to Leslie Roberston (address overleaf) so that in the event of a large crowd they should bring additional sleeping pads. If anyone is bringing a large group (say 5 or more persons) they must contact the ski house reservations member at least 5 days in advance at [email protected]. The address is a misnomer as there are no reservations, but it allows the Custodian some forewarning of what to expect that particular weekend. Teddy Bear Weekend: One has been organised this year. On this weekend family-orientated events and meals take place. But don’t be put off if you don’t have kids, the house is plenty big enough to accommodate all. See overleaf for more ski house info: Montage Page 5 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 5 Montreal Section Laurentian Ski House 2005-06 Ski House Group Meals As always the ski house meals are a great success. If you haven’t yet experienced or would like to become one of our regular participants see below for up coming culinary delights! The tradition of providing a group meal on Saturday nights will continue this year. We do this for several reasons: to avoid the chaos of several meals being prepared at once, to raise a small amount of money for the house, and because the meals are outstanding! The cost of the meal is simply divided amongst the diners with a small amount going towards the ski house. This usually works out to be in the $14 range. In order to make sure there is enough food, please let the organizer of the meal know you are coming by the Thursday before the meal. Visitors are not obliged to participate in the meal, but please cook after the group meal. Date Meal Contact 04- Dec Ski house official opening, WINE & CHEESE Eric Lepage (450)978-8817 31- Dec New Year’s party, who wishes to do it or help? Celestine S.489-2842 07-Jan TBA 14-Jan I want more… Pizza by Martin Suiches 747-2828 21-Jan Boeuf Bourgignon Eric Lepage (450)978-8817 28-Jan TBA Ski House Committee 2005/06 04- Feb Brazilian Feijoada (traditional rice pork and bean meal) 11-Feb . Thai Meal 18-Feb Teddy Bear Weekend 25-Feb TBA 04- Mar LASAGNA Celestine S. 489-2842 11- Mar Indian Night Holly Robertson 481-2435 18- Mar TBA 25- Mar TBA 01- Apr TBA 08- Apr TBA 15-Apr Page 6 Danuta Potworowski 340-1978 Murray & Leslie 633-1533 Ski House e-mail contact: Leslie Robertson [email protected] Dave Percival Martin Suiches Martin Goldstein Eric Lepage Leslie Roberston Danuta Potworoswki Herb Ladd Celestine Segers 514-481-2435 514-747-2828 514-489-4615 514-918-7135 514-633-1533 514-340-1209 514-481-6026 514-489-2842 Closing of the ski house www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 Ski House Frequently Asked Questions A complete FAQ is available online at the ACC Montreal Section’s web site www.accmontreal.ca/skihouse.html. How do I get in if it is locked? The ski house will normally be locked, especially if you arrive early on Friday or arrive during the week. Before your first trip to the ski house this year be sure to call any member of the ski house committee for information on the key system. What do I need to bring? Sleeping bag. Pillow. Food (see food faq) Do I need to bring food? Group meals are usually provided on Saturday nights. See Saturday night meals for more info. Basic breakfast supplies (bread, oatmeal, milk, jam, tea, coffee) and beer are available for a small fee (honour system). You're on your own for lunches. Can I make a reservation? In general the answer is no. The ski house operates on a first come first served basis on the weekend and during holidays. However if you would like to bring a group to the ski house during the week we can make special arrangements (for example reserving beds). Email [email protected] Ski House Rates 2005-06 Season Pass $160 Overnights ACC Member $15 Guest of Member $20 12-18 year old $5 Mid-week (non-holiday) reductions Day Use Meals Breakfast Dinners Directions The address is 1261 Emile Cauchand, Ste-Adele. From Montreal take the Laurentian Autoroute (hwy 15) north to exit 67 (Ste-Adele) and continue north on hwy 117. Immediately after the Banque Nationale turn left on Morin St. Follow Morin St. for 300 metres and turn right on rue Emile Cauchand and continue for 200 metres. The house is on your right, set back from the street. L'adresse est 1261 Emile Cochand, Ste-Adele. De Montréal prenez l’Autoroute dès Laurentides (15 Nord) juste qu’a la sortie 67 (Ste-Adele) . Continuez sur la 117 direction nord. Après La Banque Nationale virez a la gauche et $2 suivez la rue Morin 300 mètres. Virez a la droite sur la rue Emile Cauchand et continuer 200 mètres. La maison est a $3 $8-12 votre droite, au fond d’un grand terrain. The Ski House is open Will there be enough space? Nov 15 to April 24 Yes. We never turn anyone away. There are Autumn—Winter—Spring enough beds for 22 people. There are foamies and plenty of floor space for overflow. On very busy weekends it would be wise to bring a sleeping pad just in case all foamies are used. Will I have my own room? Maybe. The ski house is an informal and communal facility. There are no private rooms. It is possible that you could have your own room but there is no guarantee. How do I pay the house fees? Please sign the register. The fees are indicated on the front of the register and are posted on the front door. Usually there will be a member of the ski house committee present - please pay that person. Otherwise leave your fees in the coffee can in the living room. Is the ski house a cabin like at Keene? The ski house is a ‘real’ house like a cottage, not like Keene. There are washroom facilities, electric heating, a fridge, running water, etc. By Bus Take the bus at the Terminus Voyageur (Berri-UQAM) to Ste Adele. At the stop in Ste Adele walk north toward the IGA for 20m and turn left at Henri-Dumond and go up the hill for about 150m until reaching the second intersection at Emile-Cauchand. Turn right and go about 30 m to the house at 1261. Par autobus Pour aller a la maison de ski du Club Alpin-Section Montreal, proceder au Terminus Voyageur (station metro BerriUQAM) et prendre l'autobus pour Ste. Adele. A l'arret de Ste. Adele marcher 20 metres au nord (vers le magasin IGA) et trouver la rue Henri-Dunand. Tourner a gauche sur cette rue et continuer a la deuxieme intersection qui est la rue Emile-Cauchand. Tourner a droite sur EmileCauchand et marcher pour environs 30 metres. Il ya une barriere de bois vert sur votre droit devant une maison tourqoise. Le numero est 1261 et vous etes la. Pour l'horaire des autobus telephoner a 842-2281. Ski House Group Meals are a great way to end an active day! Montage Page 7 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 7 Plastic Wall Climbing Have a craving for rock climbing in winter? Indoor climbing is for you! Join us and keep your fingers strong during long winter evenings transformed in gym climbing fun. The ACC Montreal section has put together yet another mailing list to ease contact between interested climbers looking for partners, group fun and motivation! We post messages once or twice a week to invite people to AllezUp or HorizonRock. Top-roping and lead climbing are possible at both gyms... Ice?!? not yet! You can join by sending a mail to: [email protected] Please include your full name and club affiliation [ACC, MOC...] as we try to keep the list manageable by limiting it to members. (PS if you do not have easy email access, you may contact us at (514)574-3996 to join the indoor climbing group activities) See you up there! Stephane and Agustina Grimpez aux murs... pas aux rideaux! Cet hiver les mains vous démangent pour grimper un peu partout? Essayez l'escalade intérieur! La section montréalaise de l'ACC à crée une autre liste de diffusion par courriel (e-mail) afin de faciliter les contactes entre les grimpeurs cherchant des partenaires pour l'escalade intérieur, du plaisir en groupe ou de la motivation à sortir du salon! Une à deux fois par semaine, nous envoyons un message pour inviter les gens à venir grimper à AllezUp ou HorizonRock. Il est possible de faire de la moulinette ou du premier de cordé, aux deux endroits... et la glace?!? Pas encore! Pour vous joindre à nous, rien de plus simple, envoyer un courriel à: [email protected] SVP inclure votre nom complet ainsi que votre affiliation au club [ACC, MOC...] puisque nous tentons de conserver une liste administrable en la limitant aux membres. (PS si vous n'avez pas d'acces facile au courriel, vous pouvez nous contacter au (514)574-3996 pour joindre les activites du groupe d'escalade interieur. On se voie au plafond! Stéphane et Agustina Page 8 Wilderness First Aid course When I'm out in the outdoors with friends, I wish everything goes fine. But reality is a bit different, people get hurt more often than you might think and knowing what to do in such scenarios makes a huge difference. I wish all my friends know what to do in such cases. First aid courses given for city situations are a good base, but this is a practical based course designed for individuals who will be participating in outdoor activities within hours of medical assistance. This course will provide participants with an introduction to wilderness first aid. Basic topics are covered with an emphasis on practical skills, decision making and dealing with environmental conditions. Content includes: patient assessment, shock, wound management, burns, fractures and sprains, environmental injuries, common medical problems, first aid kits. This course will be given by Sirius Wilderness Medicine, a leader in Canadian wilderness first aid, emergency and medical training. Dates: Nov 19-20 Location: Keene Farm, Keene, NY For details and to register (places limited, book early) please contact me. Please note that in addition to the usual subsidy given by the section for this course, those interested in selling raffle tickets can get a further subsidy to bring the cost down. The purpose of the raffle is to have as many members as possible competent in both first aid and leadership helping the club to get more outings. Stephane Chamberland [email protected] (514)574-3996 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 Premiers soins en région éloignées ADVANTAGE TRAVELWORLD Canmore Ltd We can offer Emergency Hospital/ Medical Insurance Vous etes-vous déjà demandé ce qu'il adviendrait si une personne de votre groupe se blesse lors d'une activité de plein air avec le club ou simplement entre amis. Comment réagir? Que faire? Des compétences minimales en premier soins pour vous et les gens qui vous accompagnent font une différence énorme dans ce genre de situation. Un cours de premiers soin "de ville" est déjà un bonne base, mais ce cours va beaucoup plus loin en s'adressant aux individus qui participent à des activités se déroulant dans des endroits où les soins médicaux spécialisés ne sont pas accessibles. Ce cours est une introduction au secourisme en régions isolées. Les notions de base y sont abordées et une emphase particulière est mise sur l'acquisition d'habiletés pratiques, sur le processus de prise de décision en situation d'urgence ainsi que sur la capacité de faire face à des conditions environnementales rigoureuses et diversifiées. Coverage for mountaineering activities for Canadian Residents traveling out of province within Canada, in the USA and for worldwide coverage. Coverage can be for single or multiple trips Please contact us for more information and quotes Email [email protected] Toll free 1 877 678 9335 Ce cours est offert par Sirius secourisme en régions isolées, un chef de file canadien dans l'enseignement du secourisme en régions isolées. Quand? 19-20 Nov Où? Ferme Keene, Keene, NY Pour plus de détails et pour vous inscrire (place limitées, faites vite!) prière de me contacter. Prendre note qu'en plus du rabais habituel offert par le club pour ce cours, les participants pourront vendre des billets pour un tirage et ainsi obtenir un rabais encore plus important. Le but de ces tirages est de promouvoir encore plus les cours offerts par la section et rendre nos membres encore plus compétents en premiers soin et leadership et ainsi pouvoir offrir davantage de sorties. Stephane Chamberland [email protected] (514)574-3996 Montage Page 9 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 9 Outings Schedule FALL/WINTER 05/06 W e are pleased to again offer our members a wide range of outings, which we hope will provide you with many fun days out. If you are interested in participating in an outing be sure to call or email the leader well ahead of time (Thursday evening at the latest please!). Please note that these outings are planned up to eight months in advance and sometimes changes are necessary due to weather, conditions, access or leader availability. Please take note of the difficulty ratings given on the outings schedule and feel free to contact the outing leader who will provide you a better indication of the skills and knowledge required to participate. These outings are potentially dangerous and you will be required to sign a waiver to participate – we suggest that you become familiar with the waiver on our website prior to the trip date. For outings that involve an overnight in a hut, places may have to be reserved well in advance by the leader. Please contact the leader four weeks before the outing as places on the outings are offered on a first come first served basis. If there’s nothing listed on the outings schedule it doesn’t mean that nothing’s happening. On winter weekends there are nearly always people cross-country skiing from the Ski House or ice climbing from Keene Farm, so you can often connect with others there. You can also subscribe to the ACC Montreal e-mail listserv (information available at accmontreal.ca) or check the web-site to obtain up to date information regarding the scheduled outings and those that may be added during the season. Finally, if you are heading out and feel like some company consider sending an email to the listserv to see if others would like to join in. Also, if you would like to lead a trip or have an idea for an outing that you would like to see please contact me and help me improve and tailor the outings schedule for our members! Illustration courtesy Tami Knight Waivers You MUST sign the Outings Waiver on all ACC outings This ensures that the club is protected by accident insurance. In the event of an accident on an ACC outing, you must report the circumstances to the outings coordinator or the section chair as soon as possible. Furthermore, If you are travelling to the United States (i.e. Keene Farm) you are strongly advised to carry some sort of travellers medical insurance. Remember that YOU may be financially responsible for any expenses (possibly huge) that result from having to seek rescue or medical attention. Advice on trail/climbing conditions The National Office of the ACC advises us that legally we are not qualified to provide advice relating to conditions or hazards that may be encountered by our members or anyone else involved in outdoor pursuits. Furthermore we can be held legally responsible if we give out bum info that leads to an accident. Therefore, if you are looking for advice on trail conditions or want that latest forest fire report, you will be referred to an authority on the subject or provided with a copy of such information direct from the horse's mouth. M.R. Brian Kinzie Outings Coordinator/Coordonnateur des sorties ACC Montreal Section/Club Alpin du Canada, Section Montréalaise email/courriel: [email protected] For outings’ difficulty ratings, please visit www.accmontreal.ca Page 10 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 Montage Page 11 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Hiking Phelps Hiking Catamount An early morning hike to reach the summit of Mt. Algonquin by sun- Adironrise - a unique outing and a spectacular view are assured! dacks, NY Schlepping up and sliding down a still closed ski hill somewhere up Laurentians, Intermediate QC north. For Telemark skiers. Hope for snow! NovemWork ber 5 November 5 or Outing 6 NovemOuting ber 6 November 5 or Outing 6 November 19 Course or 20 November 26 Outing or 27 December 3 or Outing 4 December 10 Outing or 11 December 10 Outing or 11 Trail Maintenance - come help clear some of the ski trails around Ste-Adele so that you may enjoy them in the coming season! Sirius Wilderness Medicine course at the Ski House. Learn the skills you hope you'll never need, your friends just might thank you Ste Adele, All for it! This is a course that everyone who ventures into the backLaurentians country should take. Beginner/ Intermediate with good fitness Trail Clearing at Mont Plante - help prepare the trails for the oncoming ski season. Every weekend in Work November Adirondacks, NY Adirondacks, NY Adirondacks, NY Adirondacks, NY Intermediate Intermediate Intermediate Intermediate Laurentians, N/A QC Laurentians, N/A QC Intermediate Backcountry Telemark skiing - location dependant upon snow con- Laurentians, Intermediate ditions QC Snowshoe or hiking (conditions dependant) up Brothers & Big Slide! Get an early start to winter with a ski up Whiteface Mountain toll road or other Adirondack cross country ski Adirondacks, NY Hiking a peak to be determined… Beginner October Outing 30 N/A Level Learn Map & Compass skills - good knowledge to have for all types Adironof backcountry outings dacks, NY Location October Course 29 Event Festival de film d'aventure de Montréal, featuring numerous interMontreal, esting films including one by Isabelle Daigneault on her exploits in QC Ecuador Type October Festival 27 to 30 Date Contact(s) Martin Suichies (514) 747-2828 Deborah Skelton [email protected] Damon Greenberg (518) 891-1628 Brian Kinzie [email protected] Stéphane Chamberland courses@accmontreal. ca Frédéric Benz 514.524.0148 [email protected] Ed Potworowski [email protected] Ed Potworowski [email protected] Eric Lepage 514.918.7135 Mike Eamer (450) 4335658 http://www.espaces.qc. ca/fifam/pdf/ Programme_Fifam05. pdf Stéphane Chamberland courses@accmontreal. ca Karen Mendell [email protected] (514) 483-3183 Alpine Club Montreal Section Fall/Winter 05/06 Activities Calendar All participants must be ACC members in good standing. You will be required to sign a waiver before participating in each outing - these are available at www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 11 Page 12 www.accmontreal.ca Outing January 21 or 22 Festival January 13 to 15 Outing Outing January 15 January 21 or 22 Course January 14 Outing January 7 or 8 Outing Outing January 7 January 14 & 15 - New Year's Outing - Christmas January 7 or 8 Outing December 17 or 18 Date Type Location Laurentians Adirondacks, NY Adirondacks, NY Laurentians, QC TBD White Mountains, NH Ice climbing - top rope Smuggler's Notch, VT and lead climbing at Smugs! Snowshoe to Owl Head Lookout. 9km round-trip, with great Adirondack International Mountainfest features an amazing Backcountry skiing on the Loken trail near St. Sauveur A cross-country ski clinic to brush up on those classic skills Hiking Mount Washington by the Lion's Head trail (condition Contact(s) - - Beginner and Intermediate Intermediate N/A Intermediate Beginner and Intermediate Intermediate Intermediate to Advanced Beginner and Intermediate Peter Pfister [email protected] Paul Chapman paulchapman@sympatico. ca http://www. mountaineer.com/ mountainfest/ Dave Percival (514) 481-2435 Stéphane Chamberland courses@accmontreal. Frédéric Benz 514.524.0148 [email protected] Brian Kinzie [email protected] Murray Levine [email protected] Anna Grant [email protected] - - Intermediate Telemark Mike Rogers or Advanced X-country mikerogersmikerogers @yahoo.ca Level Eastern Townships, QC Beginner and Intermediate - - Backcountry Telemark TBD skiing - location dependant upon snow Cross-country skiing at on the trails of Ste- Snowshoeing up Mt Foster in the Eastern Townships (5 minutes from Knowlton). No activities planned keep an eye on the No activities planned keep an eye on the listserv! Skiing Montagne Noir - Laurentians, QC one of the highest peaks in the Laurentians offering great Event Alpine Club Montreal Section Montage 63.3– October 2005 Montage Page 13 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Festival February 11 and 12 Outing February 11 Outing Outing February 11 February 11 and 12 Outing February 11 or 12 Course February 4 Outing Festival January 28 or 29 February 4 or 5 Festival January 26 to 28 Outing Outing January 27 February 4 or 5 Course January 21 Date Type Laurentians, QC Location Laurentians, QC Huntington, Vermont Laurentians, QC www.lemassif.com Stéphane Chamberland All level telemark Beginner Intermediate Celestine Segers csegers26@hotmail. com Intermediate Backcoun- Paul Chapman paultry chapman@sympatico. ca http://www.banffcentre. ca/mountainculture/ N/A Eric Lepage 514.918.7135 Strong Intermediate Contact(s) Stéphane Chamberland courses@accmontreal. ca Level Beginner Eric Lepage 514.918.7135 Marie-Claude Lamothe 514-842-6094 Strong Intermediate Beginner/Intermediate www.csm-mcs.com Paul Gregoire 450 449 7413 Intermediate The outings in this schedule are not instructional, rather they are a way for members of similar abilities to meet and get outside. It is presumed that you have the minimum ability level necessary - if you are unsure, call the outing contact person who will be able to determine if the level of the outing suits your abilities. You are responsible for having or renting equipment. Car pooling may be coordinated by the outing leader, otherwise you may use the ride board on www.accmontreal.ca Frédéric Benz 514.524.0148 [email protected] A note about ACC outings Beginner and Intermediate All participants must be ACC members in good standing. You will be required to sign a waiver before participating in each outing - these are available at www.accmontreal.ca B.K. Buckingham to Lachute All The Canadian Ski Marathon, the quintessential Canadian Event Cascade en raquette/ Adirondacks, NY snowshoeing Mt. Cascade Laurentians, QC Back country skiing on the Mont Gabriel trails. A suitable warm - Profitez de la pleine Adirondacks, NY lune pour faire l‘ascencion du sommet Ice climbing for begin- Lake Willoughby, VT ners - check out the fantastic waterfalls of Cross country Skiing in Foret Ouareau (on route 125, between Ever stayed in a Yurt ? Actually its quite cozy. Located near Hunting- Beginner Ice climbing for those aspiring to RENDEZ-VOUS TÉLÉ- Le Massif MARK LE MASSIFGear demos and hoardes of tele-skiers Montreal, QC The Banff Mountain Film Festival comes to Backcountry skiing on St Adele trails. Another suitable warm - TBD Beginner Telemarking - learn the liberating feel of a free heel! (dates to be confirmed) Event Alpine Club Montreal Section Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 13 Page 14 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 Outing Outing Outing Festival Festival February 25 or 26 February 25 or 26 March 4 or 5 March 4 and 5 March 11 or 12 Outing Course February 25 and 26 March 25 or 26 Festival February 17 to 19 Outing Ski house event February 18 and 19 March 18 or 19 Outing Type February 18 and 19 Date Pont Rouge, QC Ste Adele, Laurentians Laurentians Location Laurentians, QC Laurentians, QC Laurentians, QC Cross-country skiing at on the trails of SteAgathe Sud-Domaine Laurentians, QC Laurentians, QC Telemark skiing at Mont Plante. We had a great outing last year Fayston, VT Lift served telemark skiing at the NATO telemark festival at Mad Adirondack Backcoun- Adirondacks, NY try Ski Festival including guided tours and Backcountry and Telemark skiing on O'Connell trail at Telemarking little known powder runs in the Laurentian BC - If Backcountry skiing on the trails in Ste- Advanced Ice climbing Laurentians, QC for those looking to advance and begin leading (dates to be con- The 8th Annual Festiglace - come and witness some of the Teddy Bear Weekend at the ski house. Kids of all ages welcome. Kasper’s Odyssey. A great tradition and a great cross country ski trip from the ski house Event Mike Eamer michael. [email protected] (450) 433-5658 Art Campbell (514) 453-3952 Stéphane Chamberland courses@accmontreal. ca www.festiglace.com Holly Robertson (514) 481-2435 Eric Lepage 514.918.7135 Contact(s) Beginner and Intermediate Intermediate All level telemark N/A Murray Levine [email protected] (514) 633-1533 Mike Eamer michael. [email protected] (450) 433-5658 http://www. telemarknato.com/ festival.html http://www. mountaineer.com/ skifest/index.htm Intermediate Telemark Pierre Achard or Advanced X-country senior_sero@hotmail. com or 514-744-1855 Intermediate Intermediate Intermediate All All Advanced Level Access and Environment Are you an enthusiastic outdoor-lover? Do you feel the urge to protect the amazing playgrounds that Mother Nature offers us? Do you want to share your passion and are you up to new challenges? Does this description fits you!? Then come and join us on the Access and Environment Committee. You will be in charge of developing educational information for kids and members, organize a nature discovery family day, represent the ACC-Montreal section, defend the member’s interests and much more… You have some ideas or concerns regarding environment and access you would like to share? Do so! Simply go to www.accmontreal.ca/environment.html or send us and e-mail at [email protected] Be active and share your passion! Accro du plein air? Concerné par l’impact des activités humaines sur l’environnement? Prêt à partager votre passion et relever de nouveaux défis ? Vous vous reconnaissez dans cette description? Alors venez nous rejoindre au sein du Comité Environnement et Accès. Vous pourrez développer de nouveaux programmes éducatifs pour les enfants et membres, organiser une journée familiale de découverte de la nature, représenter les membres du club, défendre leur intérêts et bien plus encore... Vous avez des idées ou questions sur l’environnement et l’accès que vous voulez partagez. Faites-le donc! Visitez le site to www.accmontreal.ca/environment.html ou encore envoyer un courriel [email protected] Soyez actifs et partagez votre passion! Montage Page 15 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 15 At last the announcement we’ve all been waiting for: The 2005 Photo Contest Winners!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Over all photo contest winner: Paul Gregoire “Pelerinage” Snow Adventure: Tommaso del Bianco “Wind on Dial Mountain” Vertical Adventure: Tommaso del Bianco “The Sky is the Limit” Page 16 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 The 2005 Photo Contest Winners Flora and Fauna: Pierre Achad “Northern Gannet” (Bless them!!!) Mountain Landscape: Leigh Freeman "Mist Lake Vermont" Congratulations to the winners, & thanks to everybody who entered. There were some very inspiring photos! People and Culture: Brian Kinzie “Mamshm Man” Montage Page 17 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 17 Mt Colden via the Trap Dyke Feb 27, 2005 by Howard Kay Photos by Michel Potvin I t was an epic adventure. We endured the mother of all horrendous bushwhacks, packeating trees, man-eating spruce traps, body belays on bloated waterfall ice and snow up to our noses. At times we were crawling on all fours and were not even sure which way to go, besides up. In other words, we had a GREAT time! Really. Six of us planning to climb the dyke left Keene Farm at 6:30am and we started out from the Adirondack Loj area at about 7:30 on a gloriously sunny and mild Sunday. Less than two hours later we were scouting out the dyke from below on Avalanche Lake. It looked more full of snow and ice than the two previous times I had been through it in winter. At that point one of us decided not to proceed due to an injured knee. Now we were five. He was the one of us with a camera, so we have no photos in the dyke or higher up. In and up we went. Not far in, just below the first of two frozen waterfalls, we stopped to gear up. As we readied ice axes and donned crampons, harnesses and Goretex, a solo climber went past us and proceeded at a pretty fast clip up the dyke over the two waterfalls and was soon out of sight. We started up the first waterfall. A little tricky, but we all soloed it. As we were moving past the top of that first one, we met the solo climber heading back down toward us. He Page 18 had gone over the second waterfall and decided to turn around because there was very deep snow beyond that and he was concerned about avalanche conditions. Hmmm. We found ourselves in snow up to our waists, sometimes our necks, even with snowshoes When we arrived at the second, much larger waterfall, Frédéric and JeanFrançois slowly soloed through it but Paul and I felt it was worthy of a belay, so one was set up, piecing together our two 50 foot lengths of 7 mm rope. Around that time our fifth member felt www.accmontreal.ca that our progress was becoming very slow and we were still near the beginning of the route with only uncertainty and tons of snow ahead of us and she decided to turn around. And then we were four. Frédéric Benz, JeanFrançois Mailloux, Paul Ladouceur and myself. Once we were finally past the second and last waterfall, our final technical section, we found ourselves in snow up to our waists, sometimes our necks, even with snowshoes. Moving up was a very slow proposition, at best, but we struggled upwards. One of the challenges in the Trap Dyke is to exit the dyke at the right place for the slide. Too soon and you find yourself on dangerously steep slabs. Too late and it becomes almost impossible to make that traverse as the distance between dyke and slide widens and going all the way up by the dyke is a tough grind, at best. In the summer it is fairly easy to figure out where to go and if you happen to leave at the wrong spot you can usually alter your route and get to the right place without too much difficulty. However, very deep snow and ice can make that exit point much more difficult to determine. We came to a few places in the dyke where we thought we could head over, but the traverse (Continued on page 19) Montage 63.3– October 2005 would have been in very deep, unstable snow and each time we decided to continue and try a little higher up. After a while, we came to the realization I can’t remember ever being so happy to see a real trail that a safe traverse was either not possible or we had missed the best place to do it. So what do you do? Continue up the dyke or go down? We were already two hours into the dyke and the larger waterfall below us would be tricky getting down, so we decided to push on. Hence, the horrendous bushwhack. Montage Page 19 63.1 - February 2005 The next couple of hours would be spent climbing, scrambling and crawling up 400 vertical meters of some of the most vicious real estate in the Dacks. We got caught in a few spruce traps and were eaten up by almost everything else there, as well. Through trees, up steep trenches, on top of cripplebush and over thin air all covered with a two meter layer of soft, very penetrable, snow. Never quite sure where to go, we pushed on and up, led mostly by Jean-François and Frédéric. Finally, almost by surprise, we arrived at an opening in the trees and, thankfully, the hiking trail just below the summit. I can’t remember ever being so happy to see a real trail. A short rest and snack and then a few hours down to the trailhead. We made it back to the cars an hour or two after sunset, quite exhausted. www.accmontreal.ca It's been a long while since I've done such an arduous outing. I never thought the section of trail back from Marcy Dam to the Loj would seem to require such an effort. The fact that we were all carrying almost every piece of outdoor equipment we owned didn't help. But it was great and we made it to the top, although we were not able to get (safely) to the slabs. The weather was perfect. Winter, but not too cold and we were blessed with the sun shining on us periodically. It's a nice fun romp in the summer, but in the winter it can become a true alpine experience. Almost doesn’t even look like the same place. Can’t wait to do it again next year. By Howard Kay Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 19 Hiking & Scrambling in the Canadian Rockies 2005 By Pierre Achard July 24th Mount Temple (Banff) W e (DP, MB, S, Benoit & PA) left the Lake Louise Hostel International Alpine Center a bit late (7:30am) that Sunday morning for Lake Moraine. It had been raining a good part of the night and it was still falling a few drops. We arrived at the parking lot to find Marco and his friend waiting for us. Another group of four people group has asked use if they could join us on the Larch valley trail. So we were far over the 6persons minimum requirement (bear restrictions for Larch and Paradise Valley) with our noisy group of eleven people. I found it was a bit "overkill" to hike in such a massive group, we didn't meet any Grizzly but at the same time we didn't see any wildlife anymore ! We reached the Sentinel Pass in about a hour and a half, the sky was getting clearer and everybody was fine. We started the ascent up the path (Sentinel) to Mount Temple with a smaller group (6 persons). For the first hour of scramble the trail was easy to follow but somewhere around the first rock cliff, we missed few cairns and continued to ascent too far to the right. This mistake made our ascent longer than it should has been. Scrambling in the screes is hard for the legs, but sometimes it seems harder mentally. Every step forward has to be mentally prepared and calculated so not to slip backward ! After two other rock cliffs (one climbed with a rope !), we finally reached the snow ridge and made the final ascent with crampons up to the summit. It was around 3:30pm when we reached the top... everybody was toasted ! Lucky for us, there is light until 10 pm in July and the weather was also cooperating. We took our time hiking down to the parking lot, where we met the rest of the group that had turned back previously. Benoit told us that he had seen our group Page 20 on the final ridge from Paradise Valley ! We spent the night at the Protection Mtn campground on highway 1A instead of the Hostel International Alpine Center. The hostel was full, not to mention expensive for a youth hostel (38$+Txes for nonmembers) and the Lake Louise campground was already full since 3pm ! July 25th and 26th - Mount Richardson (Skoki, Banff) We (DP, PA) left Martin, Stephanie (who were going to Abbot Pass) and Benoit to make an easy two days hike in the Skoki area. This place is really nice if you want to leave the crowded trails and the bear restrictions of the Lake Louise area. Here, you can have a real backcountry camping experience without the quotas and limitations of Lake O'Hara... but there is quite a lot of mosquitos. Almost as many as in Val David during the spring season ! Anyway, the trail to access Skoki Lodge runs by the Lake Louise Ski Center and brings us to Hidden Lake where the campground is. The following day , we scrambled in the screes (once again) to reach Richardson where the view is terrific (as Alan Kane writes in his book) ! We didn't run into anyone during the ascent (only two people on the way down) and we did not find any human presence in the closest valleys even with binoculars ! Also the flora and fauna is much more accessible than the other places we went to. Some great pictures to take once again. We even find two big morels (you know, the sponge shaped mushrooms) close to the trail (on July 26th)... one can imagine that spring came late in this region. July 27th and 28th - President (Little Yoho, Yoho BC) We (DP, MB, S, Benoit & PA) were back together for a two days hike in the Little Yoho valley. www.accmontreal.ca Destination: Stanley Mitchell Hut. Martin and Stephanie decided to take the Iceline trail. We (DP and PA) decided to hike along the Yoho and Little Yoho valley trail because of our (overly) heavy packs! Some people recommend to reach the hut via the Iceline trail and come back by the Yoho trail because they want to get high to see the Takakkaw falls. Personally, I would suggest the reverse. The Iceline is very demanding when you have to carry food and water for a two days hike. It is very steep at the beginning and the rest is a gentle ascending slope... finally you have to hike down to reach the hut. By contrast, the Yoho trail is almost flat. The slope begins only at the cross section of Little Yoho valley... and never change up to the hut. We crossed a lot of people along the trail, the place is very famous. The hut was full as well... a lot of families. If I had to give another advice for people to go there for the first time, try to be at the hut as soon as possible to get the left-wing room. Why ? Because even in July, you'll be facing people that cannot resist to start a fire in the stove when darkness comes... as a consequence, everybody that are sleeping on the mezzanine is sweating in his -20° rated sleeping bag !!! Anyway, after a short wet night (!) we got up at 3:30 am to attempt the summit of the President. It was amazing how the hut seemed empty at that time of the day ! The trail to reach the glacier is pretty easy to follow even in the darkness but we did appreciate the first light to walk on the narrow moraine. After a hour and a half we were at the bottom of the glacier. It was easy to see and to avoid the crevasses since the glacier was still in good conditions. We reached the President pass and the summit without difficulties. You have a very nice point of view of the Des Poilus glacier and the Waputik Icefield... the hut seemed so small from there. After taking dozens of pictures, we made Montage 63.3– October 2005 our way back to the hut. We reached the hut by noon. Everyone took a rest before returning to the Takakkaw Falls parking lot. The susliks around the hut are not very shy, I spent a lot of time playing with them... As for the way up, we splited the group in two. Daniel and myself took the Iceline while Martin and Stephanie took the Yoho trail. At about midway, we stopped at the cross section of two trails to drink. The Iceline trail is continuing straight forward and the secondary trail (Celeste Lake Connector) brings back you down into the valley. We were talking a lot and when I decided to move forward, I was expecting Daniel to follow but ten seconds later when I finally looked behind me, he has disappeared ! I was just not believing my eyes that he could have take the wrong trail... that it certainly took me several minutes to realize it ! Everybody who knows this area would be agree with me: it's just impossible to get lost ! No trees, no place to hide, just millions of rocks all over the place... and - for those that stillcan be lost in their own corridor a huge sign gives you all the necessary information to come back home alive ! No way for him, this was just not the right moment to think where to go - I guess his mind was busy at that time ! Anyway, it took him 45 min. more to join us at the parking lot (and that is a pretty short delay for the additional distance to cover) with a sorry face. But later I was asking myself: "what would happen if this mistake have been 3000 feet higher, late on a glacier with bad Montage Page 21 63.1 - February 2005 weather conditions ?" I preferred not to imagine. July 29th and 30th - Abbot Pass via Lake O'Hara (Yoho BC) When Martin and Stephanie left the day before, all the campgrounds where full so we didn't have the choice to do “wilderness camping”… which is illegal ! So we just camped close to the Lake O'Hara parking lot to be on time for the bus the morning after and we were not the only one to do it. We followed all the park instructions to spend a bear-safe-night and we passed the exam "hands down". After 15-20 minutes of gravel road, we reached Lake O'Hara. I was curious to see if all the adjectives I’d heard about this place and the crazy reservation system to pass through were justified. The answer is yes ! It's really beautiful... and no one can pretend beauty to be subjective in this case. Yoho park quota limitations make the experience really enjoyable - I mean, it would not be the same with thousands of tourists. We took the Lake Oesa trail to reach the Abbot Pass alpine route. The first part of this route is very interesting, the way it passes through the rock cliffs and the view it gives on the lake... but the second half is much less appreciated. 400 meters gain elevation in a very steep scree... you have to choose the rocks (the biggest the best) you're walking on to not slip backward ! It took us more than two hours to reach the hut in this mess but the game is not worth the candle. www.accmontreal.ca The view on the death trap and the Victoria glacier is awesome, as well as the snow streams on Lefroy. Spending a night in this mythic ACC hut is a very nice experience, I’ll never forget this moment. The day after, it took us less than 30 minutes to reach the bottom of the scree slope... long and strong heel-steps in gravel can do miracles ! Because hiking up to Opabin Lake was just no enough for me this day, I decided to try a last scramble on Schaffer before the last returning bus. The view is amazing here, Lake McArthur is uncovered at the very last end of the climb... Unfortunately, I’d decided to leave my pack with my camera lower at the crux to climb more easily. Whatever, best pictures we take are always with our eyes and the souvenir make them even nicer... don't you think ? Summary Place: Canadian Rockies, Lake Louise area - Banff & Yoho Nat. Parks Date: July 24-30th, 2005 Participants: Daniel Piaget (ACC Calgary) - DP Martin Bouchard & Stephanie (ACC Montreal) - MB, S Myself: Pierre Achard (ACC Montreal) PA (Other people like Benoit and Marco have been also part of our group sometimes) Related Web Site (pictures and comments in French): www.seniorcanardo.com/ seniorcanardo/seniorsero/photos.php By Pierre Achard Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 21 A Week in the Cascades By Andrew Brown M y son Stephen and I arrived in Seattle on Saturday August 13th. The weather looked stable so we decided to start our week with a ‘tourist’ trip to Mount Rainier on Sunday the 14th. The drive to the northern lodge at Sunrise is about 2 hours from Seattle and we were accompanied by Page 22 August 14 –20, 2005 my daughter and son-in-law who now live near Redmond. Mt. Rainier dominates the southern skyline as you drive southeast and, at over 14,000 ft, is one of the premier mountains of the lower states. The parking lot was busy but the surrounding hills looked less crowded as several trail options were available. www.accmontreal.ca We decided on a moderate hike with a round trip of about 8 miles which we can call Mt. Rainier , from Sunrise, via Burroughs Peak with Winthrop and Emmons glacier overlooks. The trail starts directly behind the snack bar and gift shop and rises at a moderate grade to a fork at about .3 miles. Here the route for Burroughs Peak bears left across sandy terrain and into a volMontage 63.3– October 2005 canic basin with a small reservoir/ lake (Frozen Lake). Keeping left and rising more steeply the main ridge is reached after about 3 miles. The views of Rainier and its northern glaciers are magnificent. Looking north you can see Eldorado Peak, Mt Logan and the Pickets return to Sunrise via the glacial basin and the White River trail, but we decided to remain at a higher level and retrace our steps along the ridge. We stopped at the Dairy Queen in Enumclaw on the way home. All in all a very satisfying day trip. Another mile of rambling along volcanic ash and pumice brings you to a steep overlook onto Winthrop glacier and Mystic Lake. The following day Steve and I headed north on I-5 towards Vancouver and turned east on Hwy 20 at Mt. Vernon. Hwy 20 is called the North Cascades Highway and it takes you to Marblemount about 2 ½ hours after leaving Seattle. You must register at the Ranger Station in Marblemount and pick up free wilderness camping passes. The Rangers will ask you to describe your approximate route, the color of your tent and outer clothing in case of search and rescue. You indicate the day and time of your return, but it is made quite clear to you that no search will start until you are missing for at least a day (our objective for mid-week) in The North Cascades National Park. Another mile of rambling along volcanic ash and pumice brings you to a steep overlook onto Winthrop glacier and Mystic Lake. There is the option to descend steeply and after your proposed return. A broken leg late on the first day of a remote trail could present quite a problem, and cell phones don’t really work out here. This is definitely a wilderness area and you are on your own. You must also pick up a parking pass to park at trail heads which costs $5 per day. The ranger station is not that easy to find in Marblemount. You look for a small brown sign to the left as you enter the village and go up a single lane track for one mile before you find it. Our first objective in the North Cascades was Thornton Lakes. Leaving Marblemount drive east about 12 miles to another brown sign on the left indicating Thornton Lake. Take a very rough track for about four miles to a small parking lot and trail head. We actually didn’t make it the full 4 miles up the track. After the second steep incline We descended 500 feet to the first lake outlet and pitched tent at a sandy site. where the rental car tried to go back instead of forwards, I found a safe pull-in and parked. Use your own discretion on driving this track, a Jeep Liberty would be better than our Chevy Malibu! The foot trail from the trail head starts gently along an old logging road and continues for three miles with magnificent views across the Skagit valley to the south. Then the logging road ends and a steep ascent is taken for 2.5 miles to the saddle (Continued on page 24) Montage Page 23 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 23 (Continued from page 23) overlooking Thornton Lakes. The view is Alpine and breathtaking. There are three alpine cirque lakes hidden in the valley surrounded by the rugged heights of Thornton Peak ahead, Mt. Triumph behind and Trappers Peak to the right. We descended 500ft. to the first lake outlet and pitched tent at a sandy site. That evening we scrambled back up to the saddle and along to Fred Becky’s guide says 3 hours from the lake to Thornton summit. Don’t believe it! to cross rotten ice and snow on the way. We decided to enjoy the views of Mt. Triumph and Mt. Shuksan from the ridge and, as it was, did not return to camp until 4pm. We packed up and descended to the Skagit valley and Newhalem village by 6.30 pm. Newhalem looks promising on the map, but there is nothing there for the hungry traveller. It is a purely practical Hydro Electric village with Hydro Plant, company housing, and neither restaurant nor lodging. The campsite was bleak and deserted, so we beat a hasty re- treat back to Marblemount where we feasted on buffalo steak at the Buffalo Run restaurant! We needed that meal because the next day (Wednesday) we planned to hike in to the Pickets and camp at 6,000 ft for two nights. Wednesday morning was drizzly and damp as we packed for our next adventure. Seattle weather had predicted drizzle followed by clearing and sun in the afternoon. We drove back to Newhalem and took the left turn towards the Goodell Creek Group Trappers Peak on the Thornton/ Goodell Creek divide. From here the views into the Southern Picket Range are incomparable. We dawdled over a healthy meal of nuts, cranberries, fresh blueberries and beef jerkey. Took lots of photos of the Pickets and the setting sun and sped home in the last light to our tent by the Lake, superb rock scenery all around. This would be a strenuous day hike, but a night at the lake is well worth the time and effort. Tuesday dawned as another perfect day and we decided to scramble up the open ridge and glacial slabs to the left (west) of the lakes to gain the Thornton/Triumph divide and the ridge route to Thornton Peak. Fred Becky’s guide says 3 hours from the lake to Thornton summit. Don’t believe it! This is a steady climb which took us a good three hours just to the ridge. From there we would have taken at least another hour to the summit and had Page 24 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 Campground (brown sign). Take the right fork and drive another couple of miles to the end of the road by Goodell creek. The Goodell Creek approach to the Southern Pickets starts from the last campsite on the right. Again the whole campsite was ghostly and deserted! Still drizzling we set off along the brushy old logging road which takes you five miles up the Goodell Creek valley. Drizzle turned to rain and rain coated all the trees, bushes, ferns, mosses and us. This was truly the Pacific Northwest rain forest at its best. But more fun was to come. hillside. Towards the top it is necessary to pull on bushes, roots, rocks and mud just to continue upwards progress. We found out only days later that the Rangers refer to this ascent as the “Green Hell.” Finally the After five miles the trail crosses a grade eased, we headed North along deep streambed and soon after heather benches and stopped at the comes to a mossy clearing with a first flat patch of sedge grass to pitch pebble arrow on the ground pointing tent, soaked and exhausted. We had right. This is your cue to start the seen no view for eight hours and knew we were at least two miles short of the Terror basin that had We beat a hasty been our objective for that night. We changed clothes and warmed in our retreat back to sleeping bags and munched on turMarblemount where key jerkey, nuts and Snickers. Thank we feasted on buffalo goodness we had packed in 3 litre Camelpaks each, because there was steak at the Buffalo no water to be found except the rain! That night was long. We slept fitRun restaurant! fully wondering our exact position 5,000 ft ascent to above tree line. and listening to the rumble and roar This is one of the most demanding of ice ‘calving’ from Terror glacier, ‘straight-up’ hikes I have ever done. how far away? The trail zig-zags a bit but is mostly relentless slogging straight up the Thursday morning dawned bright Montage Page 25 63.1 - February 2005 www.accmontreal.ca and perfect and we stuck our bleary heads out of the tent to be greeted by the sight of the whole Southern Picket range in the early morning light. From the Chopping Block on the left to Mt. Terror, Inspiration Peak and McMillan Spires on the right, it was all there, better than the pictures! The glorious Pickets, truly Americas Alps, as they are nicknamed locally. Now we were energised. Our route that day was to take us over heather and alpine benches to a high col overlooking Terror basin and then on over glacial moraine and slabs to Terror Glacier and perhaps a scramble up West McMillan Spire. The trail was thin but easy to follow except in two stream beds where ‘rogue’ cairns tried to send us the wrong way. The views from the col are breathtaking but the descent from the col to the glacial basin is treacherous. Keep to the right against a loose rock wall and pick your way gently down loose and steep talus and scree. Once down drink deep from the glacial stream, it is the first water you will find since you left Goodell Creek. Be prepared for the transformation from glacial stream in the morning to raging torrent in the afternoon on your return, and if camping here, don’t pitch tent too close to the river! We continued on down and over glacial debris to Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 25 and yellow flowers to arrive back at the basin late in the afternoon. Some folks climb the peak and descend to Goodell creek all in one day, but I don’t know how. We forded the torrent, picked up fresh water for the night and our Fri- scent is not easy and it took until mid afternoon to reach the car. We were tired but happy, after one of the best weeks that we could possibly have spent in the mountains anywhere. Route Summary Mt Rainier from Sunrise via Burroughs Peak, with Winthrop and Emmons glacier views. 8 mile round trip. Moderate grades over volcanic debris. Mt Triumph from Thornton Lakes and Mt. Thornton. 12 mile round trip. Strenuous final 2,500 ft ascent smooth slabs and the outlet of what to the Lakes. At least 4 hours from we called ‘Emerald Lake’. It was lower lake to Thornton Peak summit. beautiful and it wasn’t on the map! Terror Glacier and the Southern Time for lunch and then we continPicket Range via the Goodell Creek ued up to Terror glacier and the We met a wolverine on approach. 18 mile round trip. Very slabby approach to West McMillan Strenuous including 5,000 ft direct the way. Luckily he Spire. The guide book says climb the ascent from the valley floor. Thin 45 degree snow to a snow gully and was more interested in trails and interesting navigation. on up the ridge. We found a 45 deMagnificent! gree glacier with little snow and gap- hunting pikas than us ing crevasses. We had ice axes, a 75 Sources and he shot away ft rope but no crampons. We tried a Guide to Alpine Climbing in the tentative foray onto the ice but the day descent, and ascended the nasty North Cascades, Fred Becky. combination of no belay stations, scree to the col. All this time Terror Backpacker Magazine, feature artitight crevasses below and rockfall glacier had been letting rip every cle, February 2005 from above stopped us there 700 ft few minutes with new tons of falling Various Internet personal recollecbelow our summit. Caution and good ice. Will these glaciers survive a few tions. sense won the day. Checking in more years of warm summers? Becky’s guide on our return I noted Maybe the experts can tell. We rePhotos his comments, “the glacier may be turned to camp, ate a leisurely meal, Page 20; Thornton Lakes from Trapdifficult to cross in late Summer”. It saw the sunset over Mt. Triumph and pers was! turned in for the night. Around mid- Page 21; The ridge to Thornton and night a mysterious green glow lit the Mt. Triumph We played around on the ‘safe’ hillsides and the whole Picket range Page 22; Thornton and Mt. Triside of the glacier until we got bored was rendered eerily luminous by the umph. and then descended the slabs and re- light of the full moon. Page 23; Stephen at the col traced our steps to the col. We met a Page 24; The approach to McMillan wolverine on the way. Luckily he We descended Friday morning, Spires was more interested in hunting pikas roping down the steep mud and root than us and he shot away. We scram- pitches we had found so disagreeable ...By Andrew Brown bled over glacial morain and purple in the rain on Wednesday. The dePage 26 www.accmontreal.ca Montage 63.3– October 2005 ACC General Mountaineering Camp –2005 Melville/Battle Range, Selkirk Mountains By Tom Haslam-Jones T he GMC this year was beside Houston Lake in the Melville part of the Battle Range, south of Rogers Pass in the Selkirks. The camp was at 2,000 m altitude within easy reach of several interesting peaks up to 3,220 m high. From Montreal, Tom Haslam-Jones and Benoît Landreville participated in the fourth week of the camp and then Claudine Blanchette took part in the sixth week. a gastric bug running through the participants. Brad Harrison, who has been running the camps for the last two decades, researched the issue and has come up with an effective scheme Access was along 53 km of forest road for providing followed by a ten-minute helicopter ride. hand washing The hazard of helicopter access is that facilities that is easy to use and minimises the risk of contamination. Most of the rock is beautifully solid granite, often in large pieces, reminiscent of the Presidentials. Not many scree slopes. Billy Budd, however, is sedimentary and shows it, with rock debris everywhere. For the both the fourth and sixth weeks the weather was beautiful and climbs went forth every day. the effects of acclimatization are more abrupt than when access is by foot; time to access by foot, however, would have taken in the order of days, so we paid for the convenience of motorized transport. Photo1;Looking down to the camp and Houston Lake Photo 2:Benoît (left) about to descend Moby Dick East, trusting to Guide Matt Peter (right) Proteus and White Jacket and Redburn in the background Benoît signed up for a snow school on the first day, but then Brad Harrison, who has been running the camps for the last two decades, turned up and whisked him and a few companions up Proteus (3220 m). Benoit then spent the rest of the week trying to recover. Even so he went up Fafnir (2835 m), did the Claggart - Billy Budd traverse (2790 m) and then Moby Dick (3170 m). Almost all the peaks are named after books and characters from Herman Melville. Billy Budd, Redfern, Harpoon, White Jacket, and, of course, Moby Dick, Ishmael, Pequod and Ahab. The highest peak, Proteus (3220 m), is not from Melville, being named from afar by Tom spent the first four days climbthe original surveyors. ing Typee (2865 m) , Fafnir, the Claggart - Billy Budd traverse and Moby Claggart and Billy Budd in the backDick, then the prospect of looking after ground his four year old grandson for a week The first camp at Houston Lake in1999 made him rest up and recover. was dogged with health problems, with Montage Page 27 63.1 - February 2005 Claudine climbed Moby Dick, Claggart Billy Budd traverse and Forecastle (2930 m). She finished with a fourteen hour traverse from Benito Cereno to Proteus, over Redburn and White Jacket, involving 5.7 pitches on exposed ridges; see photos above and below for the itinerary. www.accmontreal.ca Photo 3 ;Tom on top of Claggart, White Jacket, Redburn, Benito Cereno and Moby Dick in background Tom Haslam-Jones Montage 63.3 October Page 2005 27 2005 ACC Montreal Section Annual General Meeting L’assemblée générale annuelle de la section Montréal. An opportunity to taste some of Montréal’s interesting cultural cuisine amongst friends & fellow outdoor enthusiasts & to participate in the functioning of the Alpine Club. Le temps est venu pour vous éveiller le sens du gouté lors de l’assemblée annuelle AGM de la section Montréal du club alpine. This year the AGM promises to offer an opportunity for everyone to learn more about the functions of our club & to participate in the decision making, all set in a relaxed atmosphere. The evening will end with a tribute to alpine pursuits with an audiovisual presentation. Not to be missed! Cette année, le repas promet de stimuler vos papilles gustatives lors des présentations des bilans de fins d’année tout en vous permettant le privilege de participer au fonctionnement de notre club. La soirée se terminera avec une présentation audiovisuelle mettant en valeur les exploits en alpinisme d’un de nos membres qu a vécu des aventures spectaculaires. We hope to see you there & we welcome all participants, members & non members alike. Date: Thursday 1st December 2005 Time: 6.00pm Place: To be confirmed! Cost: $18.00 (includes taxes & services, but drinks excluded) $20 after November 24th (if space is still available) Nous souhaitons le bienvenu a tous! Date: Thursday 1st December 2005 Heure: 6.00pm Lieu: To be confirmed! Cout: $18.00 (taxes & services, inclus, consommations en sus) ($20 aprés Novembre 24) Tickets must be reserved by sending the form and cheque to by 24th November, to: Poste-le avec un chèque au nom de ACC- Section Montréal à : Mike Rogers 421 Greenwood Dr Beaconsfield QC H9W 4Z7 Mike Rogers 421 Greenwood Dr Beaconsfield QC H9W 4Z7 *Non-smoking event *Évenement non-fumer. ACC Montreal Section AGM 2005 / AGM section Montréal 2005 Name(s)/Nom(s)...................................................................................................... Address /Addresse................................................................................................... .................................................................................................................................. Evening’s Schedule 6pm: Registration & opening of the bar 7pm: Supper 8pm: Annual General Meeting 8.30pm: Audiovisual Presentation Telephone(.........)............................................. No. of Tickets/Nombre de billets.....................................x $18.00 =....................... Vegeterian? Végétarien?............................. Payment by cheque to: Montreal section, ACC Addresser votre cheque a: Montreal section, ACC Deadline November 24th 2005 / Date limite:le 24 Novembre2005 Page 28 www.accmontreal.ca Déroulement de la soirée 18.00: Inscriptions & ouveture du bar 19.00: Souper 20.00: Assemblée générale annuelle 20.30: Présentation audiovisuelle Montage 63.3– October 2005