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From bouncer Thu Jan 1 12:23:41 1998
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Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
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Talon Digest for Thursday, January 1, 1998
Moderated by Todd Day, [email protected]
Today's Topics:
1) Scottyhe
dealer pricing
2) Dale Green
DSM exhaust [1G]
3) Bryan J. McGlade
Talon looks like a Mustang
4) Brady Berry
[1G,T] For Sale in San Antonio: '91 Talon Tsi
5) Michael
Re: [1G, T] Stereo wiring
6) RPavsner
2 talon owner [2g & 1g]
7) JimFoss
fuel economy / torque
8) Alexander S.
GReddy 18G
9) Keith McDonnell
Re: 2G - Gas Mileage and its Relation to Torque
10) Brett
re: Kill the talon?
11) Mike Smith
quick intro
12) Tom Tennant
Re: 2G Fuel Cut Defencer
13) Alexander S.
Lancer EVO V
14) Nathan T. Pharr
GVR4 update/Atco on Sunday
15) James P Gonzales
Re: tickets, my gas mileage, and slalom
16) Paul Lyons
torque values
Moderator's sole purpose is to keep the discussion moving and make
this digest look nice. While the Moderator reserves the right to
remove all or parts of submissions that are deemed not to meet this
criteria, the Moderator is not in any way responsible for the accuracy
or truth of the content of this digest. Poster is solely responsible
for comments made on the digest. These comments do not necessarily
represent the views of the poster's mail provider. This compilation
is protected by copyright, and may not be reproduced for profit.
When posting, please target your audience by supplying one of the
following subject keys at the beginning of your subject line. Only
use the keys when the post does not apply to other types of cars.
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[NT] - non-turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
[1G] - first generation (90-94)
[2G] - second generation (95+)
[AT] - automatic tranny (manual is assumed unless specified)
Example: question about first gen turbo engine would give [1G,T]
[RTP] in a message means "reply to poster". Usually, but not always, this
designation is added by the moderator to indicate that the subject has been
discussed a lot in the past and that any replies should go directly to the
originator of the message to cut down on repeat discussion. However, if
you feel you have something unique to say about the topic that you feel
hasn't been mentioned before, by all means, post your answer directly to
the digest.
Submissions: [email protected]
Subscriptions: [email protected] (send the word "help" in a message
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You may request back issues by sending this line to [email protected]
get talon-digest digest/YYMMDD.txt
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:06:19 EST
From: Scottyhe <[email protected]>
Subject: dealer pricing
Message-ID: <#1>
I have been reading the recent posts regarding dealer pricing/haggling and
thought I might add my two cents worth.
First of all I have no problem with dealers making a reasonable profit on
their sales. I just think that their profit and the salesperson's profit
should be related to the services they provide for me.
Example - A customer walks into a dealership "cold"; works with a salesperson
to buy a vehicle...salesperson takes the customer on numerous test drives and
assists them with choosing the proper vehicle, options, financing, etc. That
salesperson and the dealership can and should demand a higher price for the
vehicle to cover their time in assisting the customer in purchasing the
vehicle (that almost sounds too nice!)
HOWEVER, when I purchase a vehicle I know more about the vehicle, option
packages, etc than the salesperson. All I need for them is to sell me or
order the vehicle that I want. This has been the situation with the last two
Mitsu's I have purchased. There is close to zero effort involved for the
salesperson and minimal cost for the dealership. Isn't it reasonable to
assume that I should be able to negotiate a lower price?
In these last two purchases I have walked in knowing the exact vehicle I
wanted and was then able to sit down with the salesperson that I work with to
review the retail AND INVOICE pricing and negotiate a price...very simple.
I think the key is to get to know your dealership well and not to BS them. If
they know your intentions and you can give them a shot at servicing the
vehicle you should expect a fair price.
Scott
95 GSX; 94 325i; 97 Montero - great truck but totalled last summer with 5k
miles
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 12:13:24 -0800
From: Dale Green <[email protected]>
Subject: DSM exhaust [1G]
Message-ID: <#2>
Hi all,
This is probably [RTP]...
Just poking around my exhaust looking for a leak and noticed one in the
front exhaust pipe. It's coming from a braided-metal sort-of-thing just
ahead of the cat. Two questions:
1) What is this? Just a flexible part of the exhaust pipe?
2) Can that piece be replaced or do I have to replace the entire front
exhaust pipe?
My Haynes manual isn't too helpful on this. So...
TIA,
Dale.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 15:45:11 -0600
From: "Bryan J. McGlade" <[email protected]>
Subject: Talon looks like a Mustang
Message-ID: <#3>
Not especially relevant but I was looking out the window here at work and a
new shape mustang is parked behind my 90 Talon. I was amazed. I had always
thought the Talon a small car compared with the mustang. But side on they
look very similar in size - actually the talon looked a little bigger! As
well as this I actually think the overall shape is very similar. Perhaps
the new mustang was copied from a 90 Talon? :)
I wonder if the twin cam engine will fit in the talon (or perhaps vice
versa)
Have a safe new year
Bryan
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 16:10:52 -0600
From: "Brady Berry" <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G,T] For Sale in San Antonio: '91 Talon Tsi
Message-ID: <#4>
For Sale:
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi
Blue over Grey; tinted windows
5-spd
Limited Slip
5 Spoke Aluminum Wheels
Grey Leather interior
K&N with airbox mod
Dynomax cat-back exhaust
93K Highway Miles
$6000
Mobil 1 used in engine, transmission,
transfer case, and rear end. Great shape.
Interested? Please RTP: [email protected]
Thanks,
Brady Berry
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 18:32:05 -0500
From: Michael <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [1G, T] Stereo wiring
Message-ID: <#5>
>The stock computer can handle not having power for up to a minute,
>and it will still remember its settings. I thought this was true
>of most stereo equipment.
Apparently not with this stereo. I pulled the ECU fuse for 5-10
seconds, then put it right back in. ECU was reset, and so was the
Pioneer. Anyone know if there is some sort of capacitor that can hold
some power for a bit so memory in the stereo isn't lost during ECU
resets, or battery swaps? I had a Kenwood pullout, and it sat on a
shelf for almost a year, and I was surprised that all the stations were
still locked in. This Pioneer is just a face plate, but memory is gone
as soon as it looses power.
Todd, I'll send you my old ECU as soon as I find the other cover half.
Since it's been open so long on my floor of the car, one half of the
casing seems to have disappeared. Think I know where it is though.
Mike
91 Laser RS-T
Independent Amsoil Dealer
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 20:06:40 EST
From: RPavsner <[email protected]>
Subject: 2 talon owner [2g & 1g]
Message-ID: <#6>
Hey Guys
Well as of the other day I am now the owner of 2 DSMs both talons a 90 and a
95. Both AWD :-) I love my 90 it has some goodies like a 16g VPC etc etc,
but it is just becoming too unreliable as far as getting me back and forth to
work, and more expensive to up keep on a monthly basis than making
payments.
So I decided to buy a new one. A friend of mine alerted me to a 95 at a local
dealership, great condition, ok miles. Since I have worked in the used car
business I kinda had a good idea on how to negotiate, so I got myself a decent
deal.
**tip**
1) Buy cars as close to the end of the month as possible,
2) negotiate from BLACK book, loan value, or NADA trade it is what most
dealerships try to purchase their cars at. You have to figure if they did a
good job buying the car or taking it in on trade they own it for around that
figure, add a couple hundred $'s for profit, (even dealers have to make it)
and make a CASH offer) That means arrange your OWN financing and walk in
there with a cashiers check. Then they will make all the numbers match that
check. They are smart they can "walk a deal backwards" a good point is to
say
$x's plus tax and tag. {that is all you want to pay and that is what your
check is for}
Tax and tag fees are usually state fees that the dealer has to pay out of
pocket and are set by the state and dealers cannot overcharge you by law.
Anyway, I am keeping my 90 for just a little while. There is an import drag
event down here in FL this weekend and I am going to race the 90 since it is
much faster. Then it goes for sale as is with all the parts, if I cannot sell
it like that, then I will start to put it back to stock, sell what I can and
use the rest on the 2g.
If anyone is interested in the car as a whole or the parts you can see it at
"http://members.aol.com/talonhipsi/index.html"
E-mail me privately for info and prices.
One last thing, 2g owners, that are in the mid 12's over 105mph, could you
please E-mail me with how you got there? That is what I am shooting for and I
am interested in the different ways to get there.
Thanks for the space
Rob
90 TSi
95 TSi
IRC = TSi_Rob
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 23:01:28 EST
From: JimFoss <[email protected]>
Subject: fuel economy / torque
Message-ID: <#7>
>The most efficient (or lowest if you prefer) gas consumption is relevant to
RPM not
>MPH. There is only one point where a given engine will be most efficient with
its
>gas consumption. That point is WHERE THE MAXIMUM VALUE OF THE
>ENGINE'S TORQUE APPEARS (please argue this as little as possible because
>it's a waste of time doing so due to its correctness).
AAAUGH! How many times do I have to hear this? This is absolutely NOT TRUE!
Peak engine efficiency does not occur at peak torque, it occurs at minimum
Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC). This is dependent primarily on
engine
heat transfer, frictional losses and throttle position (pumping losses).
Typically, best BSFC occurs around 2000-2500rpm and about 85% throttle,
depending on the particular engine. This is fast enough to avoid major heat
losses, but slow enough to avoid high frictional losses.
The point of peak torque is determined mainly by volumetric efficiency which
is entirely unrelated to fuel economy. A '98 Z28 engine makes peak torque at
4000 rpm which would be 172mph in 6th gear (if it could go this fast!), but at
70mph the engine will be turning 1600 rpm which is near its point of peak
efficiency.
Actual MILEAGE is also dependant on vehicle speed. Power required to
overcome
air drag is proportional to mph^3. Thus the power that is required to move
the vehicle is dependant on the speed, but how much fuel the engine uses to
provide that power is dependant on the BSFC. At high speeds, air drag will
cause poor mileage. At low speeds the engine will be operating at light
throttle and will have high pumping losses and poor BSFC. Somewhere in
between will provide best mileage.
>Now to my question to the engineers out there. It seems to me that for
someone
>to fully realize the power results of a given engine is if they took into
consideration
>the horsepower that an engine puts out at ALL points on the curve.
A few of the muscle car magazines used to talk about "average horsepower"
numbers. The main problem with this approach is that you have to define a
standard rpm range for comparison. I.e. an engine will make more average hp
from 3k to 6k rpm than from 2k to 6k rpm. Another problem is that average hp
values are always lower than peak hp values and nobody likes to claim low
numbers for their car.
>it seems to me that some derivatives should be used as we have to
>observe the rate of change of Bhp values on a curve relative to rpm (and/or
>torque would not hurt)
The rate of change of Bhp vs rpm is proportional to the torque
(Bhp=T*rpm/5252). However, torque also varries with rpm. If you know torque
vs rpm, you also know hp and vice versa, but usually only peak figures are
given. This is why people associate (peak) torque with low rpm power and
(peak) hp with high rpm. As you stated, what is really important is hp (or
torque) across the entire range.
Jim Fossum
(BSME,MSME but don't work for a car company, so what do I know? :)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 21:22:06 -0000
From: "Alexander S." <[email protected]>
Subject: GReddy 18G
Message-ID: <#8>
Hello Everyone and Happy New Year!
I am going to get new GReddy Turbo and GReddy front mount next weekend.
The
price is about $2500 installed.
It sounds impossible, but it is true. I was wondering if anyone can tell me
something before I do it. Oh yeah, I got my GReddy IC pipe kit (lower and
upper). I installed them in like an hour. They fit great and look great. Too
bad they are blue, not yellow. Before I got it, I heard that I can't install
lower pipe with an automatic tranny. It's not true. It fits perfectly. And the
last thing, where do I dump the BOV? Back in the intake or not? What is better
and why?
I forgot to say, that I love the digest. I am new, so treat me nicely. <G>
Alexander
GReddy 95 Eclipse GS-T automatic
X-t on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 01:05:55 -0500
From: Keith McDonnell <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: 2G - Gas Mileage and its Relation to Torque
Message-ID: <#9>
Gabriel, one other thing I forgot to mention...the torque you have at
6000 RPM in the second gen is 183 lb-ft, that is 86% of your peak
torque...I would not call that a peaky torque curve, it is almost flat
from the peak up to redline as a mater of fact!
Later,
Keith McDonnell, ccdsm11 (GVR-4 #275 of 1000)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 22:53:10 -0800
From: Brett <[email protected]>
Subject: re: Kill the talon?
Message-ID: <#10>
>Sorry to anger some of you but this is what I think and I can't sit and watch
>some of you trying to save the Talon line without saying something.
It's not anger, but the disappointment of seeing a great idea fall to the
common problem of ignorance.
"And hence the headlights again pointed straight, management ruled out
innovation, they rested on their laurels, and the Tucker ceased to exist."
I guess what I am saying is that the Eagle Talon was the revolutionary BEST
bang for the buck ever to be produced in "the decades of smog" as you will.
Camarobird/Mustang technology has been idle since 1965. It brought to light
just what could be done with technology. Chrysler was the first to work
directly with the Japanese to co-produce a sports car (trucks preceded with
the Ford/Mazda deal) platform starting with the Starion/Conquest badges.
FRom that came the Talon. Great performance, competitive price, awd
technology. The cockpit style instrument cluster was born. A minor
automotive revolution. Remember back in 1990 when it was introduced. It
DID out-accelerate the Porsche 944, out-handled the Ferrari released that
year, and got better mileage than the 5.0 crowds, and darn near kept up with
engines 2.5 times the size. Even today, it is great bang for the buck on a
used one. We in the bay area have the privilege of Mr. Rick S. that owns
some tapes of the original commercials (and directed a few!) that we got to
see at our last get-together. It certainly brings back the memory of my
first test drive in an AWD Talon in 1990.
I guess I will be glad to see it go at this point. It will never be the
same with the direction Chrysler and Mitsu took in regards to "market share"
and "target audience" to produce a much more anemic and bland version. And
with the smog laws (especially the Nazi-esque California laws), it becomes
that much harder to please the fans. It was an enthusiasts car. A "cult
car" if you will. Everyone talks of the Fords and Chevy's that ruled the
70's, yet there was the Javelin. The Talon will be a collector's car
someday. Whether stored next to a DeSoto, a 275 Dino, or an AMC Gremlin
remains to be seen. But I don't think there is one owner that hasn't smiled
when the boost came on.
Eagle was the company that Saturn is today. New idea thinking from the "old
pro's."
Standard bureaucracy set in with too many suits and ties analyzing different
shades of grey.
To this end, by this eve next year, I will own a piece of automotive
history. The last TRUE DSM. 1995 Talon TSi manufactured by Diamond Star
Motors in Normal Illinois. You know the place. They have a Mitsubishi
plant in the same place now.
Best Regards to all my friends, and a Happy New Year to all...
Brett : LanGuru on irc
95REDTSi "Yes, it's a collectors item officer"
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 01:52:21 -0500
From: "Mike Smith" <[email protected]>
Subject: quick intro
Message-ID: <#11>
Hi guy,
Thought I'd do a quick introduction to the list. My name is Mike Smith. I'm
the owner of a low 11 sec Buick GN. I joined this list because of my mad
passion for Turbo Cars and actually... about anything that will burn a 5.0's
a$$. I'm a ASE certified Master Auto Tech. I hope I can learn and
contribute to the list.
Mike Smith
87 GN 11.34 at 119.5
Bad?... You ain't seen bad yet... but it's-a-comin'
http://www.mounet.com/~trbomike
ahhhhhhhh! What a Rush!
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 30 Dec 1997 16:20:18 -0600
From: "Tom Tennant" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: 2G Fuel Cut Defencer
Message-ID: <#12>
>The factory *is* fat on fuel - up to 9.5:1. But the fuel cut defender
>you built fools the factory computer into thinking there is less air
>than there is, so it puts out a correspondingly less fuel. From the
>numbers you have given, it appears to me that the ECU is seeing 20%
>less air. I think that means the ECU would be thinking it was at about
>6500 feet of altitude when it was actually at sea level.
Is that OK? Any problems with making the car hallucinate (making
it think it's high)?
[My bet is that the engine won't run if you ever make it to the top
of Pike's Peak, or drive the scenic route through Rocky Mountain
National Park. -talon mgr]
Tom
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 02:37:37 -0000
Subject: Lancer EVO V
Message-ID: <#13>
Hello again happy people!
You just have to see it. I can't say nothing. Too excited.
Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution V
http://members.aol.com/globalcar/index.htm
[Just remember that 26,975 British Pounds is equivalent to 44,630.34
American Dollars. -talon mgr]
Alexander Shikhmuraodov
X-t on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 08:54:57 -0500 (EST)
From: "Nathan T. Pharr" <[email protected]>
Subject: GVR4 update/Atco on Sunday
Message-ID: <#14>
Hello all,
I just thought I'd write and give the digest a little more Galant
content for a change. Here is what is going on with the GVR4: the
TDO6-20G is now on the car, and nicely polished by the Screamin' Eagle,
Eric Plebani. It fits very nicely with the custom lower intercooler pipe
that Dave Buschur made for me. (Thanks again, Dave!) That pipe will NEVER
blow off. I haven't run the car with the new setup, and I also have a few
things to put on the car that I'm saving until after I run it this
weekend. I'm thinking that the mph is going to be higher, since before
when I would make a pass, my boost would fall due to a poor lower
intercooler pipe setup, and by the time I'd go through the traps I'd have
only about 16psi of boost getting through the motor. NOw it peaks and
holds at 23psi. :-) I'm currently driving the car around with only 18psi
set on the Hallman, but Eric and I will probably put the big pump (big =
SUPER high flow) in the car either today or tomorrow, so I at least have
the option of running 23psi this weekend. :-)
The other parts I have waiting to go on the car and an intake
manifold from a Lancer Evo, which is extrude honed, and an O2 housing from
a Lancer, which has much bigger inlets and outlet than our O2 housings,
even after ported. The bolt spacing for the downpipe is even a lot wider,
so no longer will tightening the 3" downpipe be a pain in the butt. :-)
ATCO ON SUNDAY!
Yep, Atco Raceway in Atco, NJ is opening up for the 98 racing
pre-season this coming Sunday, 1/4/98. Cost will be $15 to race, and then
whatever else you need, like race gas, hot chocolate, food, etc. I'm
planning on being there, Eric Plebani will be there, but not running since
the car isn't finished yet. (The Screamin Eagle looks SOOO good, I can't
wait until people see it next year!) Anyway, John Norris said he's coming
up from Delawhere, Eric Porter (Web) should be there, my roommate Harry
will bring his black GVR4 up, he's ready to go a LOT faster than he did
last time we went. I'm trying to con James Heck into coming, but he may
be too busy (meow). ;-) Well, I've taken enough of your time. Talk to
you all later!
Nate
GVR4
P.S. FUPA!
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 11:29:30 -0600
From: James P Gonzales <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: tickets, my gas mileage, and slalom
Message-ID: <#15>
> at 2:30am and got pulled over for doing 41 in a 35 zone. He was nice
> about it and seen I was in my Air Force smurf suit so he let me go.
I think I read somewhere that troopers are instructed to only give
speeding tickets for going 10 MPH over the posted limit. The reasoning
is that there are enough variable inaccuracies (the radar gun, your
speedo, the cop himself) that would allow for the ticket to get thrown
out of court without a reasonable "window" of assurance. If they nail
you going 10 over, that's enough play for them to throw the book at
you. I know that's how it is in Illinois, it may vary from state to
state. Of course, if he was looking for drunks, than going any speed
over the limit is sufficient probable cause for them.
>Remember, speed doesn't kill...stupidity does.
Speed doesn't kill - stopping REALLY FAST does. :)
Jim '96 AWD Talon
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 12:36:12 -0600
From: Paul Lyons <[email protected]>
Subject: torque values
Message-ID: <#16>
Hi all
>I cracked the
>walls on the sides of the screw holes on the valve cover.
Here is a great reason to buy a factory shop manual and
a good torque wrench. Lots of torque values are not as
high as you think they are. Hope this helps someone.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
------------------------------
From bouncer Fri Jan 2 12:22:10 1998
for talon-digest-approved on Fri, 2 Jan 1998 12:22:10 -0800
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
Talon Digest for Friday, January 2, 1998
Today's Topics:
1) Steve Basile
Re: KILL THE TALON
2) T.J.
Mark H. Boost controler
3) Devil Bat
The 16G club [1G, AWD]
4) Todd Hayashi
2G - Gas Mileage and its Relation to Torque
5) Jardon
After-Market Turbos [1G, 2.0L, NT]
6) Mike Richman
fouled plugs and other absurdities
7) bss
Response to "KILL THE TALON"
8) T.J.
GN War
9) T.J.
fule pump prob
10) RUFRIDR
You know you've been DSM Deprived when...
11) Tom Tennant
Utah tuners?
12) lowell
Patrick Browning
13) lowell
7cm gasket
14) N.B.Camene
brighter headlight bulbs
15) Robert Hayton
removing carbon deposits
16) Sean
Plus! Themes, FREE stuff, timing [1G]
17) Joe Kou
Painting calipers
18) BlueTalon2
Happy New Year-War Story-long
19) Greg Lietzke
dynomax exhaust
20) Alexander S.
LSD
21) Edward J. Dobrzyn Jr Firechicken looks like a Talon?
22) Dennis Grant
Re: 2G - Gas Mileage and its Relation to Torque
23) Morley, Tim C.
Pricing on Vehicles
24) Tim Cade
decal, plugs and wires
25) Eric Wu
Injector for Sale
26) Mark Rieb
US Spec Lancer's for Sale
27) Glen Ruczynski
Motor Flush and compressor outlet elbow
28) LNCAHUB.PZGRYW
ACT Clutches (very long but very informative)
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 16:23:35 -0500
From: Steve Basile <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: KILL THE TALON
Message-ID: <#1>
>Chrysler doesn't know who their target market is. As we
>all know, most American car buyers that want to go fast are
>in favor of displacement rather than a four banger and a
>turbo. I doubt I will ever own an American car because of
>this fact alone. Nearly all would-be, go-fast 4 banger
>customers prefer to buy Japanese brand cars. And you wonder
>why Mitsubishi sells more cars.
I agree with Jon, but why fault Chrysler at all? I think educated people
opt for these cars because they understand the technology. It's tough
selling products to such a small and smart market niche, there is only room
for one.
Besides, why should we worry about increasing their recognition or keeping
the line alive? For one thing, I think these cars are one of the best well
kept secrets. That's one of the reasons I got it, not too many people know
it is fast. For me, please keep it a secret.
Second, Mitsu will stay around and I will always be able to get parts.
When I go to sell my Talon (for the 3rd gen Mitsu of course), any line
about it being discontinued is boool$h!t. Like I said, go to Mitsu for parts.
Regards,
Steve Basile
95 TSi- Still runs like new after 46,000 miles!
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 13:44:57 -0800
From: "T.J." <[email protected]>
Subject: Mark H. Boost controler
Message-ID: <#2>
I'm reposting this because I never got a reply so sorry for the B.W. but I
think some people missed it.
Bill
I wanted to know what is the difference between the Mark H. Boost controller
and a good bleeder valve and a constrictor. Does it have less boost spike?
(more stable) I just don't see the worth of it when it costs $90 from Dave B
and I can make one very cheap, BUT if it is better (I hope) than that I can
see the price difference
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 17:44:47 -0500
From: Devil Bat <[email protected]>
Subject: The 16G club [1G, AWD]
Message-ID: <#3>
As of about an hour ago I am officially in the 7cm 16G club.
The install took a long time with a few difficulties. I never
knew that the turbo had two studs in the exhaust housing. Those
took a while to extract. One of the manifold studs was broken,
so I was forced to heli-coil. And it just generally took a long
time.
Here is the deal. From the seat of the pants the car seems
to be running worse than with the 14B. Running 16lbs of
boost measured at the intake. The car begins to miss
at high rpm (around 5500 rpm) and get worse as RPM climbs.
At 6500rpm the car is a stumbling fool (it did this with the
14B too)
I am not getting fuel cut. I noticed something weird when I had
the exhaust manifold off. cyls 1 and 2 exhaust valves were black
as coal. Cyls 3 and 4 exhaust valves were frosted with white.
Can someone tell me a 'safe' boost level with a 16G, fat innercooler
pipe, alamo I/C, and upgraded fuel pump?
Thanks!
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 13:08:05 -0500
From: Todd Hayashi <[email protected]>
Subject: 2G - Gas Mileage and its Relation to Torque
Message-ID: <#4>
>Does the engine burn less fuel when less force is demanded?
Yes, at any given rpm and tranny gear, the engine can either be supporting
a big load or a small load. More gas is used when supporting a bigger
load. For example, if you climb up a steep hill in 2nd gear at a constant
3500 rpm, the engine is heavily loaded (because you have to fight the force
of gravity to get up the hill). Compare that to being on level ground in
2nd gear at 3500 rpm; in this case the engine is more lightly loaded (only
engine, drive train, and tire friction losses to overcome). When more
heavily loaded, it takes a more fully open throttle position to maintain
3500 rpm, so your right foot goes closer to the floor to keep the car from
slowing down, which in turn lets more air into the engine, which then
requires the ECU to order the injectors to fire more fuel into the engine,
which costs you a few miles per gallon in fuel efficiency when compared to
the case of the car running on level ground.
>Does this have to do with the engine burning >leaner/richer?
No, the ECU orders the fuel injectors to fire a preset number of pounds of
fuel for every pound of air that it has measured to have entered the
engine. The air-fuel ratio is roughly 11 to 1 on a DSM engine. That means
for every 11 pounds of air entering the engine, the injectors will shoot in
one pound of gasoline. For the purpose of discussing gas mileage, you may
consider air-fuel ratio to be pretty constant with engine rpm and load.
What little changes in air-fuel ratio are made by the ECU in response to
engine rpm and load have a small effect on overall gas mileage.
Now, let's get back to our hill, and this time we'll consider two different
Mitsubishi 2.0L engines -- one which makes high torque at low rpm, and one
that has much bigger diameter intake and exhaust plumbing such that it
makes less torque at low rpm. If one engine makes more torque than another
under the same conditions of load and engine rpm, then the driver of that
car will have to depress the gas pedal less to maintain a constant car
speed up the hill. He'll get better gas mileage than the other car, whose
driver must get further into the throttle to go up the hill at the same
speed.
>How do we get an optimum balance of engine speed vs. wind resistance?
For purposes of gas mileage, ignore wind resistance. Vehicle weight and
engine size have a much greater effect on overall gas mileage. You're
right that there exists an optimum speed in top gear that maximizes fuel
efficiency in any car. It's normally at or very near the vehicle speed
corresponding to the peak of the engine's natural torque vs rpm curve. In
a 2G DSM it's about 70 mph in 5th gear and about 3000 rpm (but we all know
that on most roads/highways, you're not allowed to be going that
fast...heh, heh, heh).
Hope this answers your questions.
Later,
Animal
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 18:15:46 -0500
From: "Jardon" <[email protected]>
Subject: After-Market Turbos [1G, 2.0L, NT]
Message-ID: <#5>
Hi,
My name's Alex and just a few months ago I traded my worthless
Ford Escort for a nice Black and Red '93 Eagle Talon ES.
When I first took it home I knew this car was capable of much more.
I performed several Mods (Such as the AirCan), and added a Catback
system to it, but I wanted more (Well, who doesn't? :).
[RTP]
My questions is, if anyone can help me, what After-Market Turbo (or
Supercharger), if any, would be apropriate for my type of Car? (Brand
Name, etc). Or if there are suitable Kits that come with everything
needed (Turbo, InterCooler, Blowoff Valve, etc). And for how much,
more or less?
I suppose my car has the space in the Engine Compartment for one
because of the TSi line, so adding a Turbo shouldn't be THAT much
of a problem; but I'm a newbie, so I'm just guessing here :)...
I'm really hoping I can turn my ES into a TSi somehow, instead of
actually buying one, because I got a good deal on this ES.
I'd appreciate any help, thanks!.
Alex Nagy
'93 Eagle Talon ES.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:09:52 -0600 (CST)
From: Mike Richman <[email protected]>
Subject: fouled plugs and other absurdities
Message-ID: <#6>
Had my car in to the local dealership a couple of days ago to get the fuel
filter changed (hey, they quoted me $60 for parts and labor). The warranty
is getting close to running out, so I had them check a few other items too,
most notably a cold start problem (need to fire it up about 4 times in the
morning to get it to run). The dealer was able to reproduce that at the
shop, so I was hopeful [the mechanic added "oh, that's not bad"]. A couple
of hours later the service manager calls me to tell me I need new plugs.
The car ('95 GSX) has about 15K miles on it (original plugs), so I'm not
surprised, but these plugs were really black and sooty. The service guys
find nothing wrong with the engine. I know the car runs rich by the gas
mileage I get (generally 17 mpg around town and 25 on the interstate).
They ask me what gas I'm using -- I reply Sinclair 93 octane and they tell
me the company is putting a ton of alcohol in their premium gas to get the
octane up there. The dealership tells me to put in 87 octane gas for the
cleanest burning. I ask about the stickers all over the place which say
"premium unleaded". They tell me that's BS and they recommend regular
unleaded pump gas for the car. I seriously wonder these guys and what
Mitsu would have to say about their shops recommendation (the parts manager
is the only one who seems to know what he's doing, thanks to Paul). So,
three questions:
1. Does premium unleaded gas lead to more easily fouled plugs? If so, how
do you guard against detonation if you want boost with lower octane? [My
limited knowledge tells me the computer will change the timing and lower
boost which is *not* what I'm after]
2. Just what kind of setup do I need to control the AF ratio? My cyberdyne
reads about center led (averaging the bouncing) when I'm not under boost
or when the engine is not cold. Is there some EPROM upgrade to correct
running rich I should check into? What kind of aftermarket products are
there to do this (and can they be trusted)?
3. Assuming Sinclair 93 is overdosed with alcohol, and that is leading to
fouling and the cold start problem, does anyone in the Oklahoma City/
Norman area know where I can get decent high octane gas?
Mike
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 01 Jan 1998 20:23:33 -0500
From: bss <[email protected]>
Subject: Response to "KILL THE TALON"
Message-ID: <#7>
The recent "Kill the Talon" post doesn't anger me. That Chrysler is
dropping the car is what bothers me.
I have always liked the Talon over the Eclipse. The 1G Talons were
probably better sellers. I have no data on that, just my observation.
(it would be cool to see some data on that) This digest is the Talon
Digest. TEL isn't in alphabetical order, that would be ELT! The Talon is
a good car and has good lines 1G or 2G. Yes a little different from the
Eclipse. Between the two I prefer the Talon, regardless of price. It has
a longer look to it. Especially the '97. IMO, it also is well accepted
by those who would normally look down on it. Two examples. My relatives
who prefer American cars always ask how the Dodge is, go figure. One is
a Mopar fan the other not. I live in Pittsburgh, an ex-steel town. I can
count the Hondas with BIG colorful stickers or stripes with one hand.
When I go to Keystone raceway, ALL of the other cars are domestic!
(except once in a while another DSM member's Eclipse). One experienced
racer commented on my car being OK, because it was a mopar after all.
Now lets look a the BIGGER picture. I prefer fast 4 cyl sports/sporty
cars. Mostly (all) imported. Over the past few years I have wanted to
get a real/genuine fast car. In '97 I decided I had better get it before
they were not available in my price range. The Talon is not the first
good car to disappear.
Go try to buy a NEW (non 8 cyl, sports car)
VW Corrado - gone
Toyota MR-2 - gone (I had a '88 MR-2)
Mazda RX-7 - gone
Miata
- ha, I want power!
Honda del Sol - ha, I want power! - but, gone
Lotus Elise - move to England
BMW M3 - heard somewhere they have TOO good a tranny ;)
BMW Z3 - too much $ per value and usefulness
Porsche Boxter - see Z3
Nissan 300zx - gone
Dodge Stealth - gone
Mitsu 3000 big$
Toyota Supra big$
VW Golf w/ VR6, good choice but no style.
Honda ____ - (put your boring, no personality, 2 door honda coupe name
here, what ever they call those things, I can't tell the difference
between any of them any way) - besides, I said sports car.
Acura - see Honda
Mitsu Eclipse - OK, I want it all - $26,000
Eagle Talon - Ya, AWD, Turbo, economical to modify, - $22,000. There
were only 2 in the whole Pittsburgh area in March 1997. Mine was sitting
in the dealers lot since November 1996. It was lust at first site. We
came home ...boy was the wife surprised.
Everyone is buying SUV's and 4 door sedans. Remember Greg Kinear's Talon
commercial. The last one I remember for Talon. "The commute was really
getting to me in my Acura" What a commercial. I'm so excited. :(
Chrysler dropped the ball. Perhaps the loss of the Talon is just another
good car out the door. I can only imagine that the Eclipse is next.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 17:28:11 -0800
Subject: GN War
Message-ID: <#8>
A few things
1 the gn you raced was stock or a slob
2 a stock GN can turn 13.80 ( BONE stock)
3 I have built a GSX that will take my GN on the street
4 I pull 1.89 60 foot on street tire ( cheap tire, Defenders BFG off brand)
5 I'm selling my GN for a 1G AWD DSM
6 It costs a lot more to fix a GN than a DSM (GN's hate pump gas when worked)
7 A GN a 90 -100 MPH on the street is a scary thing (WAY under braked and
handling stock)
Not to put you down you still took a down a car that you were giving up 2
cylinders to and an auto that shifts hard stock and a AWD is close in weight
(I know you have a FWD even more impresive) and he or she could NEVER go
in a turn after you.
Bill
90 GSX 12.80 (T.J.'s car hoping for 12.0 on the 17th at Carlsbad )
87 GN 12.72 @110 Street tire
11.87 @113 Slicks
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 17:29:05 -0800
Subject: fule pump prob
Message-ID: <#9>
I had an extra FP for my GN around and a friend was in need of a pump. it's
a generation 3 pump from ATR and is enough fuel for 11.50 in A GN. so it was
no bolt in I had to cut the part where the stock pump plugs in and extend it
with fule inj. hose because of the height differance. I cut the rubber on
the bottom and shaved a little off the bottom so the pump pickup would fit
the P.U. is on the bottom ) now it sits at the same hight if not lower than
stock. now the prob. He said that when he goes up hill LEFT ONLY it cuts
out. this pump doesn't have a sock because they say it herts proformance and
I dont use one in my car. (GN) Do you think a sock will help? I plan on
puting a FP gage on it soon but he needs to get more money for the gage and
hose first. If it was fule cut it would do it in a strate line also wouldn't
it? not just up hill left, and I know that it is the gas runing from the
pump but at 3/4 of a tank? What do you think?
Bill M
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 19:49:33 -0600 (CST)
From: RUFRIDR <[email protected]>
Subject: You know you've been DSM Deprived when...
Message-ID: <#10>
TOP 10 REASONS YOU KNOW YOU'VE BEEN WITHOUT A DSM TOO LONG
10.
9.
8.
7.
6.
You can't describe the sound a Blow-off valve makes to anyone.
Can't spell Bushoor, Tiym Swyzter, or Ferararar Correctly anymore.
You find it easy to adjust your radio, and HATE IT.
You start drooling at Loud V8s that pass you.
You got cassettes and CDs in your car, but KNOW you can only play CDs
5.
4.
3.
2.
1.
You try to speedshift, but it's an auto, and you hit the Brake.
Your 3 year old Great Niece asks you when you're getting a DSM!
You have over $4000 mods in your closet for a DSM you DON'T HAVE!
You drive down the road, and imitate a 2.5" Buschur Catback Exhaust
YOU ACTUALLY BOUGHT MODS FOR THE CAR YOU DRIVE NOW!
Court is Tomorrow. Wish me Luck. *Ruf looks to the Heavens*
Hank Bell "RUFRIDR"
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 20:19:25 -0600
Subject: Utah tuners?
Message-ID: <#11>
I am on vacation up here in this frozen wasteland (as compared to
Texas anyway). Is there a good tuner up here in the Salt Lake/Provo
area?
Thanks, RTP,
Tom
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 18:18:27 -0800
Subject: Patrick Browning
Message-ID: <#12>
>Hey Patrick, you should call and take care of your bill, must have slipped
>your mind.
>It's only been five months. Anyone else have problems doing business with
>Patrick Browning?
Patrick Browning still owes me $105 for a fuel pump he never sent.
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Thu, 01 Jan 1998 18:22:08 -0800
[email protected]
Subject: 7cm gasket
Message-ID: <#13>
My top end gasket kit (the big one that includes the head gasket, valve
cover, valve seals, intake, exhaust, turbo, O2, etc etc.) came with 6 and 7
cm SS turbo gaskets. The part #'s are printed on the front of the package,
but I don't know which part is which. I would think this piece could be
bought at the dealer?
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 23:13:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "N.B.Camene" <[email protected]>
Subject: brighter headlight bulbs
Message-ID: <#14>
In response to the question about brighter bulbs for the TEL. I bought the
"Bright Clean White Appearing" Bulbs from Roadrace Eng. and it was a waste
of my hard earned clams! They were the same as the stock ones. I am
however interested in getting my lights to be like the Lincoln LSC and the
Mercedes. If anyone has any idea how I can do that please let me know. I'm
new to the Digest but you all will probably be hearing from me often...my car
is my life! I also want to sell my 17" TSW's if anyone is interested.
Thanks,
Nick -"ValuJet"
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 20:33:21 -0800
From: Robert Hayton <[email protected]>
Subject: removing carbon deposits
Message-ID: <#15>
In response to Lee's question about carbon deposits and engine flushes,
I've had very good luck with AMSOIL Power Foam. This is an aerosol
product that cleans both carbs and fuel injectors. [But I haven't
gotten around to using it in my Eclipse yet--just to be honest!]
In the wife's Chevy, I unfastened the snorkel from the air cleaner box
and just sprayed most of a can of the stuff into the opening with the
engine at fast idle. You turn the engine off right away as you are done
squirting it in, and let 'er sit for 15 minutes or so. The solvents
dissolve the gum and varnish deposits in the intake system, and then
soften the carbon deposits in the upper cylinder area. After the
waiting period, you crank it up and essentially blow all the crap out
the tailpipe. AMSOIL claims that it "improves starting and performance.
Cleans dirty intake systems and spark plugs and frees sticky valves.
Also removes gun, varnish, and carbon deposits from engine exterior
surfaces." The catalog price is $4.15 per can.
If you don't have an AMSOIL Dealer already, RTP and I can arrange to get
some for you.
Robert Hayton
Independent AMSOIL Dealer
San Jose, CA
[Wow! These guys are popping up all over the place! Is Amsoil the new
Amway for the new millenium? -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 23:40:20 -0500
From: Sean <[email protected]>
Subject: Plus! Themes, FREE stuff, timing [1G]
Message-ID: <#16>
If anyone is interested I found a 3000GT VR-4 theme here
http://www.rad.kumc.edu/win95/themes.htm
I just got a subscription to Turbo for xmas, but bought the latest one
before I knew about the subsription, so I have 2 issues. This is the
one with the step-by-step build-up of Michael Ferrera's Talon. The
first e-mail I get can have my extra issue, FREE!
One last thing, will advancing the timing in my car be of any benefit or
will the ECU just retard it again?
Sean'91TalonTSi/AWD
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 00:39:34 -0500
From: Joe Kou <[email protected]>
Subject: Painting calipers
Message-ID: <#17>
Hi, I just purchased some 17" wheels for my '95 GS-T and was interested in
painting my calipers. I saw an ad in a magazine for a caliper painting
kit. Unfortunately, the kit cost $50. $50 for paint didn't seem right
to me, so I was wondering if anybody here knew of a cheaper way to reliably
paint your calipers. Thanks.
Joe Kou
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 01:31:51 EST
From: BlueTalon2 <[email protected]>
Subject: Happy New Year-War Story-long
Message-ID: <#18>
Hey Guy
Well since I wanted to spend New Years with my girlfriend, I headed up I-75
for yet another trip to Gainesville. At one point I looked up into my rearview mirror and saw a white Integra with blueish headlights flying up behind
me. I was doing 85 so he had to be doing 95-100.
I pulled over to the center lane and let him pass on the right. It was lowered
with what I'm guessing were Hart chrome rims. I couldn't tell for sure since
they were spinning (DUH!). It had the stock exhuast, but it lacked the VTEC
badge. I let him go not wanting to waste the gas on it, but a few seconds
later he had to brake for traffic so I caught up with him. A lane cleared and
he slipped into the open lane. I followed. He floored, I flipped the Poor
Man's Profec B to 18psi, but left it in 5th. I kept right on his butt as the
speedometer went past 105. The lane beside us cleared. I slid over and was
finally able to floor it. There was Escort a 1/2 mile ahead in my lane but I
would've had enough distance to past him. But just as I started walking to his
car door the Talon gave out a mighty, jarring cough. "Fuel Cut?" nope, I was
that damn intercooler coupling flying off. ARRGGH, just I was about to get
mideval on his non-vtec behind, I get let down by the hose clamp. So alas I
pulled over to the right and drove the last 1 mile in HG.
Although I was embarrassed and disappointed, my girlfriend managed to cheer
me
up with a new 1998 Porsche calender to replace the 1997 Jenny McCarthy one.
And you wonder why I make this trip every two weeks for this girl. Fortunately
this will be last trip to Gainesville in a while since she's is moving to
Tampa. But in the last eight months I did manage to get 5 wars including 3
pony cars and of course a silver NSX.
I hope you guys enjoy my war stories. From the positive responses I get by
email and on IRC, I'm guessing you do. I'm sure some of you might think I'm
socially irresponsible and dangerous by racing on the street. But I choose my
battles and I always er on the side of caution. I'll probably keep racing and
writing till I get arrested or I get married settle down and buy a Volvo
Wagon. Oh but wait there is the 850R.
Happy Safe New Year,
Mario
Porsche Killer
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 00:51:43 -0700
From: "Greg Lietzke" <[email protected]>
Subject: dynomax exhaust
Message-ID: <#19>
how far can you go with the dynomax 2-1/4 exhaust (part # 17473)? I've
heard that you can pull into the 12s with a 2-1/2" system. How far with
the 2-1/4" system take you?
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 02:28:25 -0000
Subject: LSD
Message-ID: <#20>
Howdy!
I was sleeping when I woke up and start thinking about Limited Slip
Differential on my car.
Do I have one? My car is 95 Eclipse GS-T automatic. Please help me go
back to sleep.
I put some pics and info about all new Lancer EVO V on my site. Check it
out. It is in the "news" section.
www.yelloweclipse.com
Yellow 95 Eclipse GS-T
(Installing GReddy 18G and FM IC on saturday, 9th)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 03:28:40 -0800 (PST)
From: "Edward J. Dobrzyn Jr." <[email protected]>
Subject: Firechicken looks like a Talon?
Message-ID: <#21>
>But side on they
>look very similar in size - actually the talon looked a little bigger! As
>well as this I actually think the overall shape is very similar. Perhaps
>the new mustang was copied from a 90 Talon? :)
On this note, I've also noticed a striking resemblance between the new
style Firebirds and the 1st gen 92-94 Talons.
A neighbor likes to park his 'bird next to my car sometimes, so I've had
some time to compare the two. The basic shape is the same between the two
cars, along with the rear deck spoiler, body cladding, placement of the
tailights and liscence plates etc. The Firebird's alloy wheels even look
the same as my alloy stockers for crying out loud!
Well at least GM had the good taste to copy styling cues, from one of the
nicest looking DSM's (IMHO, no flames please) around.
Later,
d Dobrzyn
1992 Talon AWD
1992 Laser 1.8l (At the consignment lot, no takers so far!) ;o(
BluFalcon on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 09:02:30 -0500
From: Dennis Grant <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: 2G - Gas Mileage and its Relation to Torque
Message-ID: <#22>
>However, as soon as you take the car out on the road where it has to
>cut through the wind, the significance of MPH increases dramatically.
>The faster you go, the more force the engine must
>produce, and thus, when you go faster, you use a disproportionate
>amount more power and fuel.
Exactly. Right on the money.
In fact, you've got *3* sources of power loss to deal with:
1) Rolling Resistance (from the tires and wheel bearings)
2) Drivetrain losses
3) Aero drag (which can be further broken down into parasitic drag and
form drag)
#1 and #2 increase linearly with speed. #3 increases geometrically.
At slow speed, almost all the drag on the car is #1 and #2. At high
speed, it's almost entirely aero drag.
>Now we get to the part where I get lost. Our cars can easily overcome
>air resistance at typical highway speeds, with piles of force (torque)
>left over. Why is it relevant that a car can more cheaply provide a
>given amount of torque at some engine speed, if not all of that torque
>is needed? Does the engine burn less fuel when less force is demanded?
Power output is directly related to the amount of fuel consumed
(assuming complete combustion - if you're running so rich that you're
blowing fuel out the tailpipe this doesn't hold)
There is a relationship between engine RPM and fuel consumption, but
it's not direct - you have to consider load as well.
For example, 6500 RPM in neutral doesn't burn much fuel at all, but 6500
RPM at the top end of a dragstrip is sucking it back pretty hard.
>Does this have to do with the engine burning leaner/richer?
Well, yes, and no. Rich/lean is a symptom, not the cause.
Every engine has a point in it's operating range where it develops the
most bang for the buck, a point where it makes best use of the fuel
provided it.
Consider this experiment: Take an engine, and attach to it a variable
load and a fuel meter.
Keeping the engine RPM constant, increase the load on the engine, and
plot the load/fuel consumption curve. (Yes, keeping the RPM constant
will require increasing throttle with increasing load)
Raise the RPM 100 or so, and do it again. Repeat until you've spanned
the entire rev range of the engine.
Now by superimposing all the curves on each other, you can tell which
RPM is best suited for a given load amount, by setting the engine speed
to whatever RPM uses the least amount of fuel for the desired load.
...except that we live in the real world. In the real world, we have
discrete transmissions with a limited number of gears, so we don't get
to adjust engine RPM to load like that. If we had a continuously
variable transmission like a ship or airplane (prop pitch is the
transmission) we could, but unless you have one of those newfangled CVT
Hondas, you can't play that game.
Instead, you get to pick a gear, and then adjust engine RPM - except
that load changes with RPM!
Do do this properly, you'd need those fuel consumption/load curves, the
vehicle speed/RPM cure, and the load/vehicle speed curve. Compare the
lot of them, and find the vehicle speed that corresponds to the load and
RPM that results in the lowest level of fuel consumption. Whew! That's a
lot of work!
Or, you could just use the gear that results in the smallest throttle
opening for a given speed. :) (smaller throttle opening equating to less
fuel being burned, after all...)
DG
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 07:58:40 -0600
From: "Morley, Tim C." <[email protected]>
Subject: Pricing on Vehicles
Message-ID: <#23>
Hello all!
This is my opinion on the vehicle prices! First of all...If any one
thinks that they can get a "fully" loaded eclipse GSX with a sticker
price of $27,000 for 22k is out of their minds! You have to look at
the invoice of the base car and then add the invoice price of each
option (I.e. antilock, power sunroof, limited slip, keyless entry, etc.)
You also have to look at the supply and demand...if the car is wanted
then the dealer can hold out for more money from someone else...and so
forth. If the dealer has to order the car...the dealer then
incorporates some cost in getting the vehicle there...they can not
sell it for the amount they pay for it! It is true that the dealer
will try to rip you off if you do not know what you are doing!
Research the prices! I have bought and sold around
15 cars in the past 1.5 years and I am not a dealer. I still have a
"few" cars, but I can tell you the deal I got on my 1997 GSX...fully
loaded...every option except the cd changer. I was able to get $24,000
out the door...including tax...title...and license. The dealer did not
have one on the lot...he had to go 600 miles to pick it up and had to
trade one of his cars...which meant the transportation of two vehicles
and having to pay to bring mine back. I do not know how the dealer made
money off of this deal...looking at all of the invoice prices and the
costs of what he had to go through...I also don't see why he did
it...other than to keep a "good" customer happy. One last
thing...find out if there is a rebate or incentive...the dealer will
not tell you! He will keep the money and it just means more profit and
you just paid more than you should have! Good luck and remember...you
have the best weapon the fight the dealer with...yourself! You
can always walk out...no matter how long you have been there. Be
assured...when you have been there a while and then walk out...you will
see that infamous sales manager! Good luck!
Tim Morley
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 09:46:18 -0600
From: Tim Cade <[email protected]>
Subject: decal, plugs and wires
Message-ID: <#24>
Happy New Year friends,
Not long ago I asked if anybody knew where to get "Mitsubishi" decal for
the windshield. Many people asked me to forward any replies that I got, but
I got none! It seems there are a lot of us that would be interested in
something like this, so if anybody knows please post it or RTP.
I was also hoping that someone could help me with a choice of plugs and
wires for my 91 GSX and my 92 Acura Integra. Both cars are at or near 100k
and currently have stock plugs and wires. I want an upgrade for sure! Any
help in this area would be much appreciated.
Thanks to all
Tim Cade
91 Gsx (Ghost)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 07:59:59 -0800
From: "Eric Wu" <[email protected]>
Subject: Injector for Sale
Message-ID: <#25>
550 cc Injector used for 6K miles for sale. I am changing to 720cc and
will take best offer for it. Asking $300 for 4 pcs. RC Engineering blue
printed and balanced.
This is for 2G and up.
Eric
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 08:09:36 -0800
From: "Mark Rieb" <[email protected]>
Subject: US Spec Lancer's for Sale
Message-ID: <#26>
Found this web page today and thought you all might be interested.
http://www.suninternational-usa.com/
They say that they will have US legal Lancer EVO's available soon (and
Skyline GT-R's!). These guys look pretty legit as they already import
Cosworth's/Renault R-5's and other exotic cars.
Their page also has some interesting links to other rally type cars.
Mark Rieb
'92 GVR-4, #334/1000
IRC Nick: Mt_Bachelor
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 12:11:25 -0500
From: Glen Ruczynski <[email protected]>
Subject: Motor Flush and compressor outlet elbow
Message-ID: <#27>
Happy new year everyone.
Yesterday I used motor flush before changing my oil. I only used half
of the bottle and ran the car for only 2 or 3 minutes instead of the
specified 4 minutes. I had serious doubts about the the ability for the
oil to properly lubricate the engine after being thinned out. To make a
long story short, the 2000 mile old oil came out MUCH darker than after
a normal 2500 mile oil change. The flush did definately clean the
motor, how much it helped is yet to be determined.
On another subject. I was considering ordering a Dave B compressor
outlet elbow. I'm looking for input from people who have used one.
Please RTP any comments you have on this upgrade.
TIA
Glen Ruczynski
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 13:33:16 -0500
Subject: ACT Clutches (very long but very informative)
Message-ID: <#28>
Hey, I just installed an ACT clutch with 2100 lb pressure plate (27%
greater torque capacity than stock) and there Hi-performance organic disc.
I did not get the 2600 lb pressure plate because I will never run 11s and
wanted the lighter pedal feel. I must say that it feels great, smooth and
quick shifting. I was getting this bad muffled ku, ku, ku sound when
decelerating & some jerking on my old stock clutch and that has now
disappeared. Clutch engagement is near the floor where I like it. I may
adjust that some more because its a little awkward in city traffic.
I would like to thank Dirk at ACT for his patience and help in answering
all my questions both by e-mail and in person on the phone. He was very
nice to talk to and took my order in person. Disclaimer: I am just a
satisfied customer who is passing on some info. Here is some of what he had
to say...
>I don't care for Kevlar discs that much even though it lasts very well. You
>would be better off with a stock disc to hold the power. I also dislike
>the fact that it is such a good insulating material. Because it is a good
>insulator and doesn't have any copper or other metal to draw the heat
>into the disc, it causes the mating parts to soak up the heat. This means
>more risk of cracking or warpage. One main benefit to the copper ceramic
>puck discs is that it soaks up a lot more heat and therefore helps to keep the
>mating parts cooler. I am not suggesting that you consider one of those
>but it is interesting info. Our performance organic disc has some metal
>content to help pull the heat into the lining and the resin is better than
>most. The resin's job is to hold the friction material together under
>excessive heat and RPM. The problem with some organics is that they can't
>take the heat or they can't take the RPM. The friction material is not the
>problem, it is the resin! For your application I would not recommend the
>Kevlar unless you use our 2600lb plate. You can use the 2100lb with our disc
>and it should be fine.
>My best customers are those that know what the heck they are doing, so I
>don't mind at all that you want to know as much as you can. I don't sell
>the "sizzle" as many others do. I don't know everything about the CFDF
>pressure plate. It used to be that the plate was stock and the
>disc had their dual friction lining on the one side. The advantage to the
>CF puck design is that it doesn't glaze as easy as a full surface and
>therefore holds more power. The downside is that it can't take as much heat
>and will wear faster. Our full surface material should last very well
>and take the heat very well.We use the same organic material used in the
>factory clutches on the Viper, 911 and Mustang Cobra 300hp.
>...regarding the CF pressure plate. It seems that CF is now changing the
>ratio of the pressure plate by machining the pivot point on the casting.
>What this does is take the existing pressure curve and magnify it. Simply
>change the ratio and it increases the pressure and decreases the working
>range and also increases the travel required to operate the clutch. You
>can't get something for nothing. This is why the pedal pressure is low.
>That is what Clutch Masters is also doing only to a greater degree. It is
>crude, but it works. The problem is that it affects adjustment and reduces
>the release clearance of the disc. With lower release clearance, shifts
>are slower and harder on syncros, especially at high RPM. If you increase
>the pressure by changing the diaphragm as we do (something others have a
>hard time doing) you can actually also increase the working range of the
>spring (in other words, cause it to produce pressure over a broader range)
>and keep it closer to your stock release clearance. The downside is that it
>increases the pressure on the pedal. It isn't bad at all on the 2100lb
>plate, but on our 2600lb it gets pretty stiff.
>Current prices for 1G DSMs w/awd.
>part # description
price
>MB-010 2100lb HD pressure plate
$207.00
>MB-010X 2600lb Xtreme pressure plate $302.00
>MBSD010S Performance organic disc
$112.00
>RB210 Release Bearing
$20.52
>Thanks,
>Dirk @ ACT
>(805) 947-7791
Dirk gave me a 10% discount off the above prices, he probably will give that
to anyone who mentions this digest. $306 for a complete clutch is a great deal.
------------------------------
From bouncer Tue Jan 6 02:11:01 1998
for talon-digest-approved on Tue, 6 Jan 1998 02:11:01 -0800
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:00:02 -0800
Precedence: list
Talon Digest for Monday, January 5, 1998
Today's Topics:
1) J. Chris Roth
Re: Engine flush??
2) Allen
Re: shocks again?
3) JON ROBERTS
Re: kill the talon II.
4) Byers, Brian
Stock Turbo/Boost Level [2G,T]
5) Dean!
Model Cars Found
6) Farzaan Kassam
New shock/spring combo?
7) Sdjewett
stumbling 16g
8) The4Bangr
Out of the driveway and onto the dyno......
9) Cameron Rittich
H&R springs and alignment [1G,T]
10) Matt Jannusch
Re: Pricing on Vehicles
11) Jim Richardson
Re: KILL THE TALON
12) WildTalon
All: Fuel economy, tranny
13) Allen
[1g,T] Broken timing belt...
14) William or Karen
The 16g group purchase
15)
16)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
42)
43)
44)
45)
46)
47)
48)
49)
50)
51)
52)
53)
54)
55)
57)
58)
59)
Bobby B
Oh gee, Amsoil; Super Street -- I'm published!
Bobby B
Honda Pro/Speed Image Motorsports
Steve
Re: Mark H. Boost controler
bss
RE: pricing on vehicles
Sean
Re: brighter headlight bulbs
The4Bangr
NEW BRAKES, SARD BOV
Joe Kou
painting caliper replies
lowell
Field SFC on 1G?
Greg Haines
Flitz
Greg Haines
sticker price
utensil
NT mileage
pdevans
Viscous Centre Diff
pdevans
BOV
Paul Lyons
alcohol in the fuel [all]
Paul Lyons
idle help [1g,T]
Da CRAZY-001
Grainger Sales
John Hindle
Wanted: Head [1g]
John Landon
1GT Stalling probs, Exhaust Dent
Greg Haines
trunk light
Shindley
VPC vs PMS
Zack
Hesistation and Sputtering Problems 1G T
AWD20L
3rd Gen DSM
KEVIN BROWN
1g talon sales
Matthew Price
2g for sale
Jardon
1G and 2G
ECBLUZE
PFP CAT/ lowering springs on stock shocks
Barry
heavily moded Talon - 9g I think
Randall Morin
GVR4 For Sale
Aaron Woods
whining sound 1G T
BlueTalon2
Short War Story
Johnathan P. Gaetz '95 Eagle TSi Turbo AWD and trouble codes
Bobby B
Popping the clutch
Gregory Haines
compression ratio, Firebird
Allen
[1g,t] More timing belt saga...
Michael Quinn
[1G][T]What are the diffs between 1G and 2G
Dennis Grant
Re: KILL THE TALON
Warren C Daniel
Chicago DSM Meeting
Mad Mark the Code Wa Re: Kill the Talon
guillermo_polo
Viper GTS running 11's.
Dan Bruski - Applica High speed stutter, Oil cap leak
Shawn Murphy
Celica on the Cam
60)
61)
62)
63)
64)
65)
66)
Mung Bungholio
Help! 94 Talon NT
Warren C Daniel
The 16G club
Benjamin Peck
Fading Interior Lights, YUCK! (1G)
Kyle Woolsey
Re: Painting Calipers
McCord, Dave
FW: 1990 Eagle Talon shimmy - Help
Robert Deis
Bra = Hot Start Prob?
Wiegandt, Ted J.
Hesitation, Ignition system
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:16:48 -0800
From: "J. Chris Roth" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Engine flush??
Message-ID: <#1>
>I came across a
>product(can't quite remember the brand) which says will clean or flush out all
>the carbon deposit in your cylinder head. It comes in a silver aluminium metal
>can.
I have used and thought it was worth it. When I bought it, I thought "hey,
it's only a few bucks..." It got me a smoother idle at the very least.
When it came time to change my oil the color of it was a realy dark honey.
I added the can to the crankcase and ran the car the specified time period.
While I was at it I added a radiator flush to the coolant and killed two birds
with one stone. When I drained the oil out it was black, pure and simple.
Couldn't really tell you if it *really* worked or not. I think it did and I
feel better after doing it so I think it is at least worth the morale boost!
Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 13:00:06 -0800
From: "Allen" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: shocks again?
Message-ID: <#2>
hi,
it's me again with the dead shocks. I had previously removed my shocks from
the springs and noticed that they didn't uncompress once put down.
I was wondering if a 95 Talon has gas or hydraulic shocks? my friend told
me that the hydraulic shocks would slowly come back out once it is
compressed but with gas shocks, you would have to pump them in order for
them to come back out. Now is it true that the shock is suppose to come
back out slowly once it is compressed?
Is it better for me to get aftermarket shocks instead getting stock
replacements(since I think mine are dead & are still under warranty), I am
in a process of lowering it? Are there any recommendations b/c I don't
want too stiff a ride.
Please reply, I need to know if they are hydraulic/or gas before Friday
because I don't want to pay a diagnostic fee at Satan if they aren't dead.
Thanks
Allen
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 16:07:17 -0500 (EST)
From: JON ROBERTS <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: kill the talon II.
Message-ID: <#3>
some clarification is needed by me.
I'm happy to see the Eagle line go. I do want Mitsubishi to continue
selling the Eclipse. Chrysler has done such a bad job selling and
promoting the Talon that I don't think they deserve to sell it under
their name.
>Eagle Talon - Ya, AWD, Turbo, economical to modify, - $22,000. There
>were only 2 in the whole Pittsburgh area in March 1997. Mine was sitting
>in the dealers lot since November 1996. It was lust at first site.
thats what I mean. Chrysler has done a crappy job selling this car.
If they can't do it right, I rather them not try at all.
>The 1G Talons were probably better sellers.
nope. Mitsubishi sold more Eclipses than Talons. This is part of the reason
why Chrysler is dropping the line. They don't sell very well compared to
the Mitsubishi sales.
> The Talon is not the first good car to disappear.
The Talon name is gone, thats all. Thats what I am glad to see go. I
love DSMs. I would hate it if Mitsubishi stops selling the Eclipse unless
it gets replaced by the Lancer EVO. Mitsubishi has done a much better job
selling these cars than Chysler has and that is why I want the Talon NAME to
die. They should have created a new car company from the start under the
"DSM" name anyway.
To me, Chrysler did such a bad job selling these cars that they actually
did more harm than good. They really hurt the credibility of this car
because of the crappy job they have done. Jeep with Eagle? What were they
thinking?
Jon Roberts
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 15:41:23 -0600
From: "Byers, Brian" <[email protected]>
Subject: Stock Turbo/Boost Level [2G,T]
Message-ID: <#4>
[RTP]
Question... What is the safest, maximum level of boost that you should
run that will not harm the 2G on pump gas? I have been told 15-16 psi.
Can you run more than this without fear of detonation?
C. Brian Byers
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Fri, 02 Jan 1998 15:48:03 -0800
"Dean!" <[email protected]>
Subject: Model Cars Found
Message-ID: <#5>
http://www.iac.co.jp/~hlj/index.html
Dunno if this site has been mentioned before, but it seems to have a
model for just about every car out there. Everything from a Mitsubishi
Montero - Galant VR-4 - Corvette ZR-1 - Nissan Skyline. (All of the
steering wheels are on the RIGHT hand side, however) Click on "Auto:
Pass"
No, they don't seem to have an Eclipse/Talon/Laser, but they have Honda
Civics and Camaros? Anyway, I thought an Eclipse in Japan simply had a
different name...so maybe that is what they have?
Check out the site, they really do have everything else!
Dean, 91 GZX
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 15:31:04 -0800
From: Farzaan Kassam <[email protected]>
Subject: New shock/spring combo?
Message-ID: <#6>
Hey dudes,
Long time no write. Hope all is going well for you!
I've recently been in contact with Koni for other reasons and mentioned
to them that they don't make any good bolt-on race parts for the 1st
gen DSM crowd. We talked about how much it cost to make the RalliArt/GAB
suspension on my car and they were astounded. Seeing a potential market
there, they would like me to get a feel for the potential market out there.
Would you be interested in a height adjustable front and rear suspension
for the 1st gen DSM cars that will allow you to lower your car like mine
was without compromising shock travel (they will use a shortened strut
as I did) and your wallet.
The kit would include upper strut mounts, 2.5" diameter coil springs (so
you can change the rate if you find it too soft/hard) and Koni height
adjustable struts front and shocks rear. The spring rates and all
engineering would be done by Koni so it should ride softer than my setup,
but with the same or better handling (newer technology and all).
The cost would be comparable to buying normal springs/GAB shocks/camber
plates. The Honda/VW boys have had this type of setup for some time now,
just take a look at the Neuspeed ads for an idea of what it would look
like.
Please email me at [email protected] if you are interested and I'll pass
your vote straight to Koni's R&D department.
Farzaan.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 19:01:01 EST
From: Sdjewett <[email protected]>
Subject: stumbling 16g
Message-ID: <#7>
Hello ppl,
>Running 16lbs of boost measured at the intake. The car begins to miss
>at high rpm (around 5500 rpm) and get worse as RPM climbs.
>At 6500rpm the car is a stumbling fool (it did this with the 14B too)
You didn't mention if you had good wires or not but I had the same problem
with my 14b when I upped the boost until I put on a set of Magnacor wires.
>cyls 1 and 2 exhaust valves were black as coal. Cyls 3 and 4 exhaust valves
>were frosted with white.
Don't know what to tell you there except do a compression check.
Good luck,
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 19:25:47 EST
From: The4Bangr <[email protected]>
Subject: Out of the driveway and onto the dyno......
Message-ID: <#8>
Hello all,
Made it out of the driveway with the truck and trailor and hauled the car to
the dyno today. I was hoping for 430 with the few little changes I made and
hoping to bump 400 ft.lbs. of torque. I was pleasantly surprised to see 446.1
hp and 421 ft. lbs of torque! The car had over 300 pounds of torque from
3800 rpm (where I started the run) and held over that all the way to 7800 rpm
with the peak at 4500. The HP was incredible with 210 at 3800 and holding
over 400 all the way to 7800, the peak of 446 was hit at 6,000 rpm. I am sure
there will be doubters, there always is, but this is the with the same off the
shelf 20G turbo I sell. No huge Garrett, nothing trick and nothing I don't
sell to my customers. We had no cooling fan in front of the car for the
intercooler or for the cold air inlet pipe. Next trip there we are going to
take a large fan for the front. Last time we dynoed when we made a pass at
the track the car went very lean from the added cooling to the intercooler and
the forced air into the aircleaner. This is a nice way not to kill the
driveline and test. I had hoped for 430 like I said and then we were going to
do some part swapping. The 430 was surpassed by 16.5, so the day was spent
fine tuning that. Hopefully a few more trips we will see 475 to the wheels,
then back to the track for some serious parts BREAKAGE!
Take care all,
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 17:24:57 -0800
From: "Cameron Rittich" <[email protected]>
Subject: H&R springs and alignment [1G,T]
Message-ID: <#9>
Interstate 5 has finally killed my struts, and it's time to replace them
with something better. I'm going to use H&R springs and GAB's or Koni's (I
haven't decided). Anyway, seeing as this is my daily driver, I need to get
the car back on the road soon after installing these parts. Will camber
plates be necessary? What are good ways to bring the alignment
(particularly camber) into a reasonable range.
Thanks, Cam 92 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 98 19:51:40 -0600
From: Matt Jannusch <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Pricing on Vehicles
Message-ID: <#10>
>the deal I got on my 1997 GSX...fully
>loaded...every option except the cd changer. I was able to get $24,000
>out the door...including tax...title...and license. The dealer did not
>have one on the lot...he had to go 600 miles to pick it up and had to
>trade one of his cars...which meant the transportation of two vehicles
>and having to pay to bring mine back. I do not know how the dealer made
>money off of this deal...
$22371 is the dealer invoice price for a manual '97 GSX with all options
excluding the CD Changer (ABS, mudguards, sunroof, floormats, alarm
w/keyless, leather and power driver's seat, and limited slip rear
differential). The 2% holdback amounts to $447.42, leaving a real dealer
cost of $21923.58. If you are holding out for a great deal, and the cars
are readily available (like they are here in Minnesota), then $500 over
that cost would be your target. That brings the price up to $22423.58.
Here in MN, tax is 6.5% - bringing the total up to $23881.11. Figure
$400 for title and license fees, and you are up to $24281.11. I'd say
that $24,000 would be a great deal.
I'm guessing that the other people quoting $22,000 are just talking about
the straight price of the car, which should be attainable if there are a
few of exactly the car you want available on the lot.
I think for now I'm pretty happy with my '93 GSX. It does what I want,
looks okay, performs well, and is good enough to compete pretty well in
local autocrosses. When the time comes for a new car, I'm going to try
to find a Spyder VR4 or hopefully Mitsubishi will make a '00 Eclipse
Spyder GSX. How's that for dreaming? Since the Spyder VR4 is gone,
there's no great convertible offering for those of us up here in
snowland. Too bad...
~Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
'90 Eclipse GS-2.0
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 20:18:31 -0800
From: Jim Richardson <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <#11>
WANTED: 96 Talon AWD Auto service manual. RTP
On the "Kill/Save the Talon" I tried real hard to purchase an Eclipse in
96 but was told over and over by local dealers and finally by a Mits.
rep that the car I wanted was unavailable on the West Coast and could
NOT be factory ordered...but I was able to get an identical fully
loaded Talon (for 21k) with just two phone calls!
Jim Richardson
96 Talon Tsi AWD Auto fully loaded
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 23:55:44 EST
From: WildTalon <[email protected]>
Subject: All: Fuel economy, tranny
Message-ID: <#12>
Perhaps you can help me with what I've been pondering about. I'm trying to
figure what the best setup to maximize fuel economy in a DSM. I know a good
set of plugs, wires, and the proper air/fuel ratio contribute. But, how do
those aftermarket ignition systems come into play? They amplify the spark so
a larger gap can be run, or is this only for increasing power production? How
about the fuel mapping units by Greddy and HKS?
Do those of you with the larger turbo setups get better fuel efficiency
because the turbo takes longer to spool up unlike the stock one which does
almost immediately everytime the accelerator is depressed?
Does season (weather) affect fuel economy? I'm guessing that since the air
is colder, it more dense, meaning it has more oxygen in it and the car's ECU
compensates by injecting more fuel. I heard somewhere that the content of
gasoline is altered in the colder months for easier start up or some other
reason. Can anyone confirm this? My mileage is seeming to be getting worse
and worse. At 30,000 miles, I've change the plugs. Economy may have picked
up a bit but next is the fuel filter and PCV valve. Do plug wires have any
significant affect?
[RTP]
I have one final question for you all (tranny related): My second gear does
not engage like the others anymore under light or heavy acceleration. It is
actually worse getting around town. It kinda grinds into gear, I really hate
it and I know something is wrong. Does this sound like something wearing out,
like the gear itself or a synchro (don't really know what this is)? All of
the others are just fine! Would bad MT fluid cause this? I've still got a
little over 6000 miles on my warranty and I'm pretty sure I can get the dealer
to replace anything, so please let me know if any of you have had a problem
like this. Oh, BTW, I've got an Extreme Motorsports short shift kit
installed.
TIA for any responses.
Bryan
'96 Wildberry Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 00:32:57 -0500 (EST)
From: Allen <[email protected]>
Subject: [1g,T] Broken timing belt...
Message-ID: <#13>
Well, the worst has most likely happened. Driving down North Druid Hills
Road in Atlanta, on the way to a nice steak dinner, my timing belt
apparently broke. The car is a '94 Talon AWD, with about 45k miles. As
many of you will recall, about a month ago, I severely over-revved the
engine, probably to around 10,500 rpm. Although it ran fine for the last
month, I can only assume that this is too much of a coincidence, and that
the belt was damaged at this point. I'll know tomorrow when I pull the
belt covers off and look.
I was driving a steady speed, I think, at relatively moderate engine speed
(3000 rpms, perhaps) when it happened. When the engine cut out, I very
quickly took it out of gear and rolled into a side street. I never tried
to crank the motor or roll with it in gear after that. Any idea if my
valves might've survived unbent? Better yet, is there any way I can find
out without removing the head? I would think that maybe installing a new
belt and then doing a compression test would reveal bent valves?
Otherwise, I'm going to have to assume that I've bent valves. Furthermore,
since it's Friday night now, I'll have to try and work on it this weekend,
without the benefit of any digest responses. My plan is this, offhand.
You may recall from quite a while back that I wrecked my '92 Talon AWD, and
still have the car. I believe that I can remove the head from this motor,
swap it onto my '94, and install a new timing belt.
Is the 92 head identical to the 94? From everything I've read, I assume
so. Are there any obvious pitfalls here? Also, I don't have the special
tools for doing the belt. Does anyone in Georgia have them that I could
perhaps borrow?
Replacing the head looks to be a LOT of work, but perhaps nothing that I
can't do, having swapped turbos and replaced a clutch. Wish I could get
Dave B on the phone, but I see he's in Japan. Hmm.
The ironic thing is, I'd been planning to do the belt early, even before
the over-rev. I was just waiting for it to get warmer here in Atlanta
before I did any serious work on the car. It's a bitch being cold in the
garage... now, things will be tricky. My parents live in the same city, so
I'm having the car towed there. If I can't get everything done this
weekend, which is admittedly asking a lot, I'll probably have to rent a car
and wait 'til next weekend. I've taken so many days off work during the
holidays that I can't really miss too much more to work on the car.
Guess this is life, though... wish me luck, and I'll keep everyone
informed!
Allen Belletti
'94 TSi AWD (with a broken timing belt, more than likely.)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 21:36:41 -0800
From: William or Karen <[email protected]>
Subject: The 16g group purchase
Message-ID: <#14>
[rtp]
Hello everyone,
I looked at the archives, but for some reason didn't turn up anything
about the recent idea of having a 16g group purchase. It was mentioned just a
few digests ago, and I was wondering if the guy running the show could
contact
me as I am interested.
[The archives typically lag by a whole month. The digests that are *NOT*
in the archives are always in the root directory of the Archive section
on the server. -talon mgr]
Also, my turbo recently seized and I have to replace it. My car is
stock, but I don't think there's any reason to keep it that way :) which is
why I thought I'd replace it with a 16g. I never intended for this to be my
first *real* mod, but as fate would have it... Anyway, is this a safe and
reasonable thing to do with a stock Talon. Would the increase in lag make me
crazy? Are there any other side affects of a bigger turbo... negative side
effects, that is. :)
Thanks again!
William Moglia
93 talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 00:22:27 -0600
From: Bobby B <[email protected]>
Subject: Oh gee, Amsoil; Super Street -- I'm published!
Message-ID: <#15>
Man, today my car was running very rough, and I talked to a few
mechanics and they suggested I get a fuel injector cleaner. I picked up a
bottle of Amsoil Fuel Injector Cleaner (just $5.95 for a 1/2 quart), along
with Amsoil Seat Cleaner (just $6.95) for all of my stains on my leather
seats. I filled my car up with 95 Octane Amsoil Gasoline (unleaded, just
$8.00 a gallon), and then I added the Amsoil Fuel Injector Cleaner, and then
closed the gas tank. This stuff not only cleans the deposits off your fuel
injectors, it increases the octane rating 30 points, lowers emmisions, and
guarantees that you will find a date for tommorow night! If you can't find
any of this great Amsoil crap, just ask me, and I'll send you STP instead.
Also everyone, read the Super Street (Jan 1998 Issue), page 10, I GOT
PUBLISHED! Only I kind of lied in my letter saying that I autocross, and
notice the anti-Honda remark I made :)
Bobby (please realize that this post is joking about the Amsoil junk)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 00:44:29 -0600
Subject: Honda Pro/Speed Image Motorsports
Message-ID: <#16>
Hey everyone, sorry for the double post.
In the new SCC (Feb 1998), on page 131, there is an add for Speed Image
Motorsports, go look at it,. I'll wait. Ok, now tell me if anything looks
wrong with that car? HAHA! It's supposed to look like some modified car or
something, how freaking lame. Would you order from this company?
To keep the DSM content on, the other night I was about to get into a race
on the freeway, I pulled ahead of the guy trying to initiate a race, he bit,
and my upper IC pipe blew off (thanks for the correct bindings to hold it on
Dave, not), and then they guy started flashing lights (cop lights) so I
immediately went into "oh sh*t) mode and the guy tried to pull me over
kinda, and he wanted mt to exit, so when he exited I kept on going on the
freeway. Could this have been a real cop?
Thanks,
Bobby Bernauer
Not an Amsoil dealer
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 01:59:20 -0500
From: Steve <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Mark H. Boost controler
Message-ID: <#19>
FRom what I understand, the Hallman MBC is much more stable than a
simple bleeder valve. I think I remember reading in a post awhile ago
how there is something to do with a spring in the valve that helps keep
a steady boost level. All I know for sure is when I received mine in
the mail from Buschur it took about 15 seconds to install and has kept
my boost spikes to a minimum. I easily set it too about 14psi and
occasionally see 14.5 to 15 psi spikes but that's it. I understand your
reluctance to spending $80+ on it but I think its worth every penny!
Good Luck
Steve
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 06:49:42 -0500
From: bss <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: pricing on vehicles
Message-ID: <#20>
> First of all...If any one
> thinks that they can get a "fully" loaded eclipse GSX with a sticker
> price of $27,000 for 22k is out of their minds!
True, go to your local, "about to go bust" Eagle dealer. Fully loaded
Talon AWD Tsi 's have sold for 22K. If you can't find one local, call
around.
Barry
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 09:29:43 -0500
Subject: Re: brighter headlight bulbs
Message-ID: <#21>
Getting the bright lights for the DSM, like the ones on the Lincoln Mark
VIII, Porsche, and I think the new Lexus GS400, will never happen. I'm
also a member of the Ford Probe mailing list and someone there was
looking to do the same to the Probe, take a stab at the price. Anywhere
from $1000-$3000. Apparently these special lights are quite costly do
to the type of compressed gas used to achieve the BRIGHT WHITE LIGHT (I
have no idea what the gas is). But hey there supposed to last forever.
Anyone have anymore info on these lights, I'd like to here from you.
Thanks,
Sean'91TalonTSi/AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 11:11:18 EST
Subject: NEW BRAKES, SARD BOV
Message-ID: <#22>
As everybody knows I have been working on the RWD. I just finished the front
brakes for the car. I was going to use a set of the rear rotors in the front
and try to make the rear calipers work too. I decided to go with the same
Wilwood's I was using on the rear and just make brackets. Anyway, the cross
drilled stock rotors showed up yesterday. I weighed each one and found that
the stock rear solid 90-94 rotors weigh in at 8-3/4 pounds each. So just out
of curiosity I weighed the entire front brake assembly using the Wilwoods.
The rotor, hat, calipers with both pads weigh in at 11 pounds even. This is
amazing. The rotors measure 11.5" which is bigger than the current big brake
upgrade. I am going to make another set of mounts and try a set on a street
car and see how they perform. I have a good idea it will be unbelievable.
I told everyone about the SARD BOV and that I was going to test them etc.
Well after the dyno yesterday the testing is finished. I am overly impressed.
Never heard one that sounds this good. Nor have I seen one control
compressor
surge so well. The stock one is still on par with the compressor surge
control. This is a great unit for guys with VPC's that can have it vented to
atmosphere 100% of the time. There is no way to re-route this back into the
air box. It looks awesome which is the bug up-side to it with the front
mounts and such. I had it set on its lowest setting and it still stayed shut
completely with no boost loss. I have them for $238, includes shipping of
course.
Thanks guys,
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 11:30:52 -0500
From: Joe Kou <[email protected]>
Subject: painting caliper replies
Message-ID: <#23>
Hi, I want to thank everybody for answering my question on painting the
calipers. I really appreciate the help. I'm going to go to the Murray's
auto supply today to check around for all the stuff you guys recommended.
Some people emailed me who were interested in the responses I got, so I
decided to try to post them here on the digest for anybody else who may be
interested. Thanks again everybody,
Joe Kou
I went to a Kragen autoparts and bought some primers (around $6?) which
I use as the basecoat to paint my calipers. Then I bought a can of red
engine paint (also around $6?) to paint the calipers once the primer
coat has dried. It had been 1 1/2 years and the calipers still look
very sharp. The red calipers match my red car very well. 8^) So, for
$12 you can get very decent quality. And if it starts to look too dull,
well, just spray on another coat of that red paint! $6 buys you way too
much paint than what you'll need. 8^)
~
Joe, I use engine enamel. You can buy it anywhere and it will take a lot
of heat. I don't know about hard racing conditions though...I've had
mine painted for over four years with no problem. p.s you can get it in
many spay on colours.
~
I just used a brush and some Hammerite paint, been on two years and
still looks great.
~
BBQ paint. Just don't get any on the pads or rotors.
~
I bought some high temp (1200F) from a local autoparts store that is
working just fine. First, use some brake cleaner and then paint 'em. I
don't autocross or do anything which requires alot of braking so I don't
know if it'll hold up under those conditions (I doubt it), but for
street use its great. Only problem was the lack of colors and the fact
that it wasn't glossy paint like the FolioTec stuff you probably saw an
ad for.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 11:09:57 -0800
Subject: Field SFC on 1G?
Message-ID: <#24>
Anyone who's used one of these on a 1G DSM please let me know how you did
it...
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 14:43:36 -0500
From: Greg Haines <[email protected]>
Subject: Flitz
Message-ID: <#25>
To Paul and all:
Flitz is good for any metal. I have some
handguns with aluminum frames and have never
had a problem with it. It either has no grit
in it or it is extremely fine, doesn't feel
gritty between your fingers. I can't
reassure you any more than that, I haven't
used it on the TB yet, but that's what I'd
use. Let us know!
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 15:12:34 -0500
Subject: sticker price
Message-ID: <#26>
Well, my 2 centsworth is this. Did I get the
best price possible for my car? No, I didn't
dicker more than a little, but when I take my
car for service and I can't wait around
several hours (or my wife's Jeep for that
matter) we get a demo car to drive that day
or longer if it takes longer. Usually
they'll rent you a car, but I don't even pay
that. I've had a brand new Wrangler once, a
new Cirrus, and a new Neon. Plus when I go
to the dealer and want to test drive
something, the salesman doesn't even go
along. They know I'm not looking to buy a
car right then, but I might the next time.
Also getting service arranged is made a
little easier for me. Was this cause I paid
more than $500 over invoice? Who knows. But
if I keep getting service like this, I'll
stick with the same dealer and overpay for
new cars.
Greg Haines
PbPedis
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 12:47:31 -0800
Subject: NT mileage
Message-ID: <#27>
I have a 92 un-modded Laser and I only get 24 mpg[us gal](31mpg [imp. gal])
on the hwy. travelling 65-70 mi/h
The best I've ever got is 27 mpg[US] 35 mpg[imperial]
Note: An imperial gallon has 20oz. and not 16oz thus the numbers are bigger
in Canada(Bigger pints too)
Anyways When I got my best mileage I was running at approx. 50 mi/hr 80 kph
while my spare was on and I was getting my rim fixed. This was in 5th gear.
Other than that my mileage is pretty much dead on 24-25 mpg (30-31 imp)
These are for an NA car I know but still I can't see much difference in
cruising speeds. I know this isn't as technical as some of the OTHER posts
and I wish it not to become so as these are real- world figures and like
everything there is theory and proven facts... Sorry is I upset some ppl but
these are just my numbers.
flame away.
92 Laser RS
"Redline"
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 08:46:28 +1100
From: pdevans <[email protected]>
Subject: Viscous Centre Diff
Message-ID: <#28>
I'm a raw recruit to this game so I'll introduce myself.
I live in Sydney Australia so I've never seen a Talon in the flesh, but
I know that the mechanicals in my Mitsubishi Lancer GSR (same body shell
as EVO 11 & 111 rally cars)are very similar. The transmission looks the
same but my car runs a 4G93 1.8lt Turbo engine.
After almost 120K in the last 2 years at 15psi, I think the viscous
coupling centre differential is on it's last laps so I'm looking for a
possible sourse of an up-grade.
Of real interest is any avalible adjustable centre diffs as I've just
read about a SUBARU impreza WRX spec-R in Japan that comes standard with
a rotary pot on the centre console that adjusts front to rear from 50:50
to 35:65.
If it isn't actually made for sale, I'd be very interested in converting
a standard unit. I understand that a VC basically operates with a set of
plates using a silicon bath for friction and that World Championship
rally cars pass a variable electric current though it to change the
silicon's viscosity.(and therefore the front to rear bias)
Any tips, hints or knowledge on this subject would be much appreciated.
Many Thanks inadvance
Paul Evans
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 09:16:10 +1100
Subject: BOV
Message-ID: <#29>
sorry, just had to put this in.
I've been reading the archives about BOV's and how some of them leak at
around 13psi. The instant and zero cost way to solve that is to invert
it. That is, turn it around so that the side of the valve that in
standard position would have the boost applied to it is downstream.
All I had to do was extend the vacuum hose that controls the diaphram.
When I first installed my wastegate bleeder, I had the thing adjusted to
maximum and was really pissed that I still wasn't getting more than
13.5psi. After a couple of weeks I tried this BOV inversion, took it for
a test drive and found that I'd had the wastegate adjusted to 22psi for
weeks. Needless to say I immediatley took my foot off and adjusted it to
a more sane 15psi.This tip should probably be on a Go-Faster page
somewhere.
Happy motoring
Paul Evans
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 16:19:41 -0600
Subject: alcohol in the fuel [all]
Message-ID: <#30>
Hi all
>I reply Sinclair 93 octane and they tell
>me the company is putting a ton of alcohol in their premium gas to get the
>octane up there.
This is especially for you Mike. I now have 5 confirmed members who
have had the same problem with sinclair gas in the OKC area. Four (you
being the fifth) have corrected this problem with another brand of gas.
All of the info I have gathered points to the content of alcohol in the
gas. Unless you're getting stupid with the boost or are extremely modified
just stick with the 91 octane. BTW their advice about using 87 octane gas
is total crap. Anybody who wants more info
I'm in the book too Mike. gimme a call.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 16:39:14 -0600
Subject: idle help [1g,T]
Message-ID: <#31>
Hi all
I've searched the archives but there is almost too much info.
The infamous fast idle surge FAQ wasn't a great help either so
I'm posting here. I've got a fast idle but I'm not sure of it's cause.
I suspect the ISC motor but I'm not getting a totally open coil, as
I suspected I would. 2 coils are not in spec but I'm not sure how
that would affect things. I'm geting 50-60 ohms out of two. Can
anybody point me in the right direction? Thanks. BTW I ocassionally
get an idle surge but not that often. The car never dies.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 18:27:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Da CRAZY-001 <[email protected]>
Subject: Grainger Sales
Message-ID: <#32>
Just thought that I would share a deal that I can now get on ALL Grainger
parts. Due to a agreement with PAMA (a aviation mechanics club) and
Grainger a
10% discount on all products is available. I am not personally in PAMA but my
father is and I buy through his business account anyway. I don't know if this
will be able to help anyone out seeing how the most common thing being a $15
pressure controller and $1.5 off isn't much and after shipping (I would have to
buy and ship) it wounldn't be worth it... But keep it in mind if you are
looking for something that it would be worth your while. I am only offfering
this to DSM members becuase this is my best way to give back to the club for
all that it has helped me!
Aaron
IRC - MrMoo
'90 GS-T
Eventually I will find a fuel pump and more importantly the 2.5" exhaust...
DaveB I know you have 1000's in the stock room... stop teasing us! hehe
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 19:38:54 -0500 (EST)
From: John Hindle <[email protected]>
Subject: Wanted: Head [1g]
Message-ID: <#33>
Well, my worst nightmare has happened. I need a new head (or used). Way
back when I spun a couple bearings (remember james, nate, eric? :) Well,
It ate up my head pretty good also. So, I'm looking for another one.
If you could, please send me email. I'll be in Vermont skiing all week
but I need this head as soon as I get back. Thanks everyone!
John "Ex-Boosted" Hindle
'90 Laser RS FWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 19:40:50 +0100
From: [email protected] (John Landon)
Subject: 1GT Stalling probs, Exhaust Dent
Message-ID: <#34>
My car routinely can't hold idle after re-setting the computer (I.e.
disconnecting the battery) for approx. 100 miles of driving. The RPMs
will either bob between 100 and 750 then cut out or just go to zero when
the clutch is depressed. Has anyone had a similar problem with idling?
Have been living with this problem for past two years and any advice
would be appreciated.
[The car should learn the idle spot after stopping at about 3-4
offramps. It is not unusual for it to die maybe once or twice
after coming off the freeway. It needs to learn the idle point.
Other common problems are intermittent idle switch or bad speed
sensor. The idle switch should throw a code when bad. The cruise
control will not work if the speed sensor is bad. Why are you
resetting your ECU that often int eh first place? -talon mgr]
One other quick item. Was at Extreme having their 2.5 DP + HF Cat
installed when it was noticed that the muffler shop that installed my
DaveB 2.5 superflow exhaust had mangled the pipe 2" back of the Cat
flange (I.e. crushed the sides in somewhat)... apparently trying to make
room so they could tighten the bolts on the flange. Any advice on how to
bend the pipe walls back to normal.
John Landon
90 TSI-AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 19:42:42 -0500
Subject: trunk light
Message-ID: <#35>
Sorry for the double post, but one post
jolted my memory. A while ago I asked if
anyone knows how to get to the hatch lock
assembly cause the light back there quit
working. There's a switch for the cargo area
light as well as the alarm there. I thought
you could remove 2 plastic discs and gain
access that way. No dice. In fact I don't
see how you can get to it short of stripping
the walls completely out of the cargo area.
Is this a job for satan? I know the bulb is
good, checked it at the auto parts store.
Anyone ever had this happen? BTW it's a 97
Talon TSi AWD m/t
Greg Haines
PbPedis
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 20:05:32 -0600
From: Shindley <[email protected]>
Subject: VPC vs PMS
Message-ID: <#36>
1G, T, long
Hello everyone. I just swapped my PMS for a VPC! Yeah, it was a loss
financially but I have had 18 months with the PMS and wanted to try a
VPC.
I have a '92 GSX with racing pistons, 550cc injectors, ported
everything, no balance shafts, Alamo side mount, HKS IC pipe, 2.5 d.p.,
and cat, 3" cat back, f.p. upgrade, and a ported/clipped 16G. I fooled
with the PMS for a long time before buying the datalogger software.
That was not good. If you have a PMS you NEED that datalogger. The guy
I traded with can attest to that. He likes the PMS (but then, he is
just getting started!)
I installed the VPC in three hours. I also installed a Mark Hallman
bleeder valve a few days ago. Without the PMS I had to use a $4 water
valve as a bleeder for a few weeks. It provided horrible boost
control. The Hallman valve works as well as my old Profec.
I have to admit I like the VPC better than the PMS! The engine has MORE
power and it runs smoother through the gears. The engine has as much
power as it had last summer running 100 octane and without a cat, and
that was with 22 PSI boost! Seriously! The VPC with 92 octane, cat and
16 PSI of boost is almost equivalent! God knows what the engine
will do with no cat and 100 octane now. Dave Buschur told me that I
would see a 100 h.p. improvement. I thought he was joking. He wasn't.
You might argue I didn't have the PMS tuned properly. That may be so.
I did have it for 18 months and I DID tune the thing A LOT! I broke
rings, burned pistons, and melted a cylinder head with the PMS in
control. Well, all that was due to my tuning guesswork WITHOUT the
datalogger. Whatever. I am the same guy that had the PMS in the car
for 18 months and now I have a VPC and the VPC clearly OUTPERFORMS the
PMS!
In real world terms I find the VPC to be easier to set up and use, AND,
so far, it outperforms the PMS on my car! Thank you Dave Buschur!
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 21:54:38 -0600
From: Zack <[email protected]>
Subject: Hesistation and Sputtering Problems 1G T
Message-ID: <#37>
I am having the following problems with my car. Somtimes when I
start the car...and it might be warm or fully heated up already...never
does this when its cold. It will start and idle really low and kinda
sputter and raise itself up slowly kinda like the computer is
disconnected and trying to relearn something. When it does this I try to
press the gas and it sputters (this is during idle now) as if its not
running on all 4 plugs. And then it goes away...it only lasts like not
even a minute. It did this today...and it was kinda wet outside it also
has done this when it wasnt wet outside so I dont think its water
related. Later on today...I went to start mmy car this is right after
this happened a few hours later ( FYI it was raining today in chicago
and it was raining when this happened) I started the car it started fine
idled at the usual cold setting like 1.5k or so. Then I pull out and
start driving and my car starts acting wacko like it was possesed. The
abs light light would flash on and off along with the check engine light
and the radio would keep flicking on and off( I had it on) The idle was
rough and was dipping well below 500 and it almost died out. Also when I
would drive the car would like jerk almost as if someone cut off
everything for a split second and then it would go again. I barely
limped the car home. Could this be a pending alternator problem...or
maybe a defective plug wire arcing somewhere. Possibly some water might
have leaked in and shorted the plug wire? I am at a loss for words
here id like to know what im up against before I take it to Satan. I do
have a warranty but Im not sure if this might be covered. My relevant
mods are as follows...
~Chopped aircan and K&N filter (removed lower mas and silencer)
~Bleeder valve set to 15 psi
~Boost gauge tapped off the Fuel Pressure solenoid
~Dave B 2.5" cat back
~Shifter mod (as if it matters here)
~removed nipple on Boost Control Solenoid ( I think thats what they call
it)
The rest of the car is stock...the spark plugs have been changed
with the same ones ngk bpr7es a while ago like 2 yrs almost FYI I just
had the starter and the trans seal just replaced a while ago along with
the thermostat. Satan did the starter and the seal...I did the
thermostat. The car is a 93 TSi with 54K miles. Any help on this
matter would be greatly appreciated.
[At first, I was going to suggest leaky fuel injectors. The demon
possession sounds like an electrical failure of some sort. Get that
alternator check out quick! -talon mgr]
Thanks in Advance
Zack AKA: Yahoo (IRC)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 23:03:07 EST
From: AWD20L <[email protected]>
Subject: 3rd Gen DSM
Message-ID: <#38>
Hi everybody, I thought this will be the dream 3rd Gen DSM. Even though this
belongs to the Nissan line.
The production quantity has been limited to 99, and each one of them will be
hand made. + The newly developed RB-X GT-2 Engine "Increasing the power is
only a simple thing to do." That is why the Engineers at Nismo denied this
horse-power race. Meaningless and bluffing specifications were disregarded,
and the target was set at 400hp. This figure came from the knowledge in N1
Endurance races. It was an amount of power that can guarantee a high level of
durability and give the driver an engine-feel that couldn't just be expressed
with horse power. A smooth acceleration but still giving an immediate jump
from mid-low into high speed; a moment that only a true Sports car can
provide. To give this moment to drivers, Nismo tuned the RB26DETT engine.
This
is why the newly developed RB-X GT-2 engine was given birth. + The 400R
consists of many exclusive parts Other than the newly developed engine, the
400R consists of many special parts. Power-train parts such as the Twin Plate
Clutch and Carbon Propeller Shaft, Suspension parts such as Bilstein Shock
Absorbers (ENP made), Coil Springs, Suspension Links Titan-made Strut Tower
Bar. The Aero Kit is not there, just to give a powerful look. It all considers
Aerodynamics and cooling efficiency. Each one of the parts are all selected
very carefully; if even one part was missing you wouldn't be able to call it
"400R."
Don't agree? Take a peak at this bad boy.
http://mypage.direct.ca/c/cay/index.html
Lee
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 21:25:40 -0800
From: "KEVIN BROWN" <[email protected]>
Subject: 1g talon sales
Message-ID: <#39>
In 93 when I bought my awd TSI I would have preferred to get an Eclipse.
However in the Portland metro area there were only 2 mitsu dealers and about
8
Jeep/Eagle dealers. Guess who was much more willing to make a deal. the
mitsu
guys were asking an average of $2K more for a maxed out GSX. I think that's
why there are many more 1g Talons than 1g Eclipses.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 00:46:45 EST
From: "Matthew Price" <[email protected]>
Subject: 2g for sale
Message-ID: <#40>
It's a sure thing now, I'm selling my 95 Talon:
~95 Talon AWD, Red
~39,000 Miles
~ABS, Cloth Interior, Moonroof, PW/PL/PM, Cruise
~New: Tires, Alternator, Battery
~Modifications: HRC Upper IC pipe w/ Greddy BOV, Full 3" exhaust (loud,
but a quieter muffler can be added), K&N Cone Filter, Mitsu 14b turbo
with 16g mounting kit, Everything ported, Denso Fuel Pump, Lotec pod
with Boost and A/F gage, Short shifter, CFDF Clutch
~Maintenance: Mobil 1 every 3000 miles, Synthetic oil in the
transmission, Transfer Case, and rear end.
~Extras: Tinted windows, CodeAlarm
I am asking $15,300 obo for the car totally decked out, $14,700 obo in
stock form. I am asking so little for the mods because I don't want to
do all the work of removing the stuff. The car runs perfectly, always
has. I have taken very good care of the car and it is flawless. It has
been stored all but one winter. I have an expensive stereo system (CD,
Subs, etc) in the car that could go with it if the buyer is interested,
let me know.
The car has only been to the track 3 or 4 times, and has run a best of
12.63@107mph. That was with a 16g turbo, but the car feels about as
strong with the 14b.
Please let me know if you're interested in the car, I need to sell it
soon, as I have already bought its replacement. You can call me at (248)
380-3402 evenings, or (313) 458-8546 days, or just e-mail me at
[email protected] with any questions. The car is located near Detroit,
Mi.
I drove to North Carolina this week with my girlfriend and bought a '90
Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix with 106k miles on it. I decided on this car
because it is distinctive, rare, very comfortable, and runs low 15's
stock. I am switching cars to free up some money because I'm going to be
travelling this year, and will be out of work for 7 months. Anyway...
the Grand Prix is a FWD 3.1L OHV Auto with a Garrett t25 turbo. My first
impressions are that it feels MUCH torquier than the 2.0L Mitsu engine,
but lacks the top end power. It got over 27 MPG on the trip back to
Michigan, that's at 75+ mph through the mountains. The suspension is
pretty stiff stock, and the car is very responsive on the 245/50-16
tires, which look huge. A couple of these cars have been modified and
are running 13's, mine will probably run 14's in a little while. These
cars are very hard to find, I drove 750 miles each way to get mine. I
think it was worth it though.
"Project Cheap Talon"- the engine should be back this week, I'll be
putting it in ASAP. The bills for the parts are part of the reason I
have to part with the 95. I guess you can't have it all. It's worth it
for the promise of 11's to come :)
Thanks for the bandwidth.
Matt Price
90 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix, stock for now.
95 AWD - "LIL 4X4"
90 AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 16:31:29 -0500
Subject: 1G and 2G
Message-ID: <#42>
Hi all,
First of all I'd like to thank all the people who sent me mail
about adding a Turbo to my Talon ES; they made me realize than doing
such thing would take a lot of money and time. Much more money than
actually trading it, and that the performance gains I'd eventually
get wouldn't be as good as a stock TSi.
Now it's time for another of my newbie questions :).
I will probably keep my ES for a while before trading it, but I'v
been looking around and comparing 1G and 2G Talons.
FRom what I read, the 2Gs have a more powerful Engine, but they
look bigger and heavier to me.
What I was wondering is if there's a big difference in the ETs in
the Quartermile between a Stock 1G AWD and a Stock 2G AWD?
Also, the 2G Speedometer reads 160MPH, and the 1G reads 145MPH;
does that really mean anything?
You can reply RTP, or to the Digest if you think anyone else would
benefit from the answer.
Thanks!.
Alex
'93 Talon ES
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 17:50:15 EST
From: ECBLUZE <[email protected]>
Subject: PFP CAT/ lowering springs on stock shocks
Message-ID: <#43>
Hi all Hope everyone had happy holidays.
Has anyone had any experience with the Products For Power hi-flow
cat-con? I see that Summit has them in 2-1/2 inlet/outlet and they cost like
$79.00. Seems almost TOO cheap to me.Are they as good as the ones available
from our favorite dsm shops? I would love to save $100.00 if I could but I
want the best one. My next question is has anyone with a 2g fwd used lowering
springs with the stock shocks? and if so what were the results? Please RTP
thanks
Eric Cavalieri
2g tsi fwd
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 18:53:15 -0500
From: Barry <[email protected]>
Subject: heavily moded Talon - 9g I think
Message-ID: <#44>
(pass up if you don't want a laugh)
For those who fear the end of the Talon is near check out the mods on
this Talon.;) http://www.ktc.com/personal/parkboys/tal.html
Barry
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 19:47:54 -0500
From: Randall Morin <[email protected]>
Subject: GVR4 For Sale
Message-ID: <#45>
Selling my 1991 Galant VR4. The car is immaculate inside and out. No
dings, dents, scrapes or rust. Nile black exterior with black leather
interior. It has less than 70,000 original miles. Completely stock
except for a K&N airfilter. Recent tune up including timing belt, new
clutch, new tires, battery, and complete tune up. This car is a one of
a kind. Never raced. Owned and maintained meticulously. Need to sell
for college tuition. Can be seen at my office in Frederick Maryland
weekdays between 8 am and 5 pm. Serious inquiries only. Thanks.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 20:10:29 -0500
From: Aaron Woods <[email protected]>
Subject: whining sound 1G T
Message-ID: <#46>
After having just replaced my turbo with a rebuilt one I am hearing a high
pitched whining sound that appears when the boost gauge reads around 0.
After the turbo gets into boost it sounds fine, the normal turbo whistle.
The sound doesnt change with RPM or Gear.
I am having another problem that just started also, when closing the
throttle but leaving the clutch out, such as coasting, after about 5
seconds of this the check engine light will come on, it will dissappear as
soon as you touch the gas and get the vacuum up a little bit.
The whining sound is annoying and the check engine light is a mystery so
far if anyone has any insight to these problems please let me know.
[Have you tried clocking out the codes as suggested in the shop
manual yet? It can't be oxy or EGR, because once those are on,
they stay on. -talon mgr]
BTW this is a 90 Laser with 146K miles on it and still going strong.
Aaron
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:06:16 EST
Subject: Short War Story
Message-ID: <#47>
Hey guys
I was driving around Tampa today bumming cause the Bucs lost and I didn't get
to go to the Moroso Drag Wars (Thanks Steve), when I see a later model
Porsche
944 about to make a left turn down the street I'm about turn onto. I'm not
sure but those either came with a Turbo 4 or a 200hp NA 4cyl. My first
thoughts are to how nice it would be to race him down the through the twisty
road ahead, but I came back to reality since most Porsche drivers drive them
only for the name and rarely push Weissach's and Zuffenhausen's finest
engines
to redline.
But as I complete my turn, the 944 rides up close on my tail. I touch the gas
and spurt and ahead to see if he's game, and the way he stuck to my tail I
figured he was. So I switch the Poor Man's Profec B, to 18psi, and floor it. I
grin comes to my face as I see the carbon/oil plume engulf the 944 as I start
pulling away from him. The road was only two lanes so we couldn't have race
side by side, but it didn't matter since I pulled three car lengths ahead
before having to stomp on the binders to avoid pulling a "Hank" and hitting
the Mustang in the lane ahead of me.
I had hoped the Porsche would have continued further down the road so that
we
could've raced on a four lane road, but instead he turn onto a street of very
nice condos. I couldn't help but to be a tad envious. But thats okay, he might
have the nice house and the 944, but I have the AWD,DSM Porche Killer.
Mario
Porsche Killer
90 Talon TSI AWD 112k
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 21:42:58 -0600
From: "Johnathan P. Gaetz" <[email protected]>
Subject: '95 Eagle TSi Turbo AWD and trouble codes
Message-ID: <#48>
Hi,
I'm new here and have been making my way through the digest archives,
however I've come up relatively dry on the info I'm searching for.
I bought my new '95 Eagle (used with 47k miles) on New Year's Eve and
approximately 3 miles from the dealership the Check Engine light came
on. I've been searching since then for the procedure to get the ECU
what the problem is. I've located what I believe to be the diagnostics
port and its a D-connector with 16 pins in it. I've been unsuccessful
at probing these pins to determine any type of 'trouble codes' ala the
1-gen 12-pin connector.
I'm going back to the dealership on Monday to get them to look at the
car, so chances are whatever the issue is will be resolved then. Can
anyone let me know in the meantime how to check diagnostics codes on
2-gen E/L/Ts? I've heard that it requires a special serial-port
adaptor and software and I've heard that its doable with a voltmeter.
Anyone?
Johnathan
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 22:07:26 -0600
Subject: Popping the clutch
Message-ID: <#49>
Hi all
I was driving home today in my normal crazy fasion, and as I slid into the
driveway, I accidently killed the car, and as it was coasting up the
driveway, I put it in first and popped the clutch, sure enough, it started
back up. I know this is normal, but I would like it if someone could
explain the "physics" behind this. I see it as since it's in first, the
tranny is moving, and when you "pop" the clutch, it makes the contact
between the tranny and flywheel, and gets the engine moving, and somehow
makes it start like that? My reasoning behind this theory is because if I
am not mistaken, a starter just gets the flywheel moving, right? Please
inform me, guys :)
Thanks,
Bobby Bernauer
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 00:08:17 -0500
From: Gregory Haines <[email protected]>
Subject: compression ratio, Firebird
Message-ID: <#50>
This has been nagging at me since I read the post. Someone
was saying that compression ratio had little to do with
using engine breaking cause fuel flow is cut off when
coasting. I didn't see any other replies, so here I am.
Unless you're running your car in the vacuum of space, the
cylinders will always be compressing something with each
stroke. It might be an a/f mixture, or it might be just
air. Either way there is a resistance to the movement of
the piston. Sooo, a higher compression ratio produces more
engine breaking, right?
A humbling experience tonight. As I left the hospital, I
came up on a Firebird. He started out like he wanted to
run, but the engine wasn't warmed up yet, so I just tooled
along behind him. When the temp gauge rose, I moved. I
passed him in 2nd and beat him to the place where the road
narrows to one lane. He followed me down the road and got
on the expressway behind me. I came out of the entrance in
2nd and really got on it. At about 115 or 120 he went
blowing past me like spit in a high wind. Seems that I had
the low end grunt to outrun him to about 80-90, but he
definitely owned the top end! I tried to see what model it
was, but couldn't in the dark. My hat off to that pilot!
Seems the new headlight blackout covers I got didn't help
the car's performance much. But, hey, it still looks sharp!
Greg Haines
PbPedis
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 01:05:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [1g,t] More timing belt saga...
Message-ID: <#51>
Wanted to post an update on my timing belt disaster and ask a few
questions. Please, if you have any info or advice for me, I'd appreciate
if you could copy me directly ([email protected]) as well as
mailing the digest. Thanks!
Anyway, wasn't ambitious enough to try swapping heads this weekend.
Rounded up the belts & tensioner on Saturday, and borrowed the special
tools from Gary Selph. Thanks again, Gary! By coincidence, his belt had
suffered a near causualty just four hours before mine, but all was well as
he'd already fixed it when I talked to him. Maybe he'll put up a web pic
of his timing belt with the hole in it...
Finally tore into things today. I had discovered on Saturday that the belt
wasn't broken, and that the cams still turned with the crank. That was the
good news. The bad news that I got on Sunday was that I had four missing
teeth, three of them in a row. The belt, not me! :) Furthermore, the
crank sprocket was almost exact *180* degrees off. Ouch! That'd explain
the sudden death of my car.
Well, since I had the belts handy, I went ahead and replaced the timing and
balancer belt. Couldn't use my new tensioner as they'd sold me one for a
90-92, I believe. The timing belt is not a fun project, especially when
you're doing it for the first time and you know your car probably won't run
afterwards due to bent valves.
Got the timing & balancer belts on, tensions, etc, and decided that I'd try
to start the car briefly to see what happened. At this point, none of the
accessory belts (water pump/alternator, power steering, AC) were in place,
so I couldn't run it for long.
Well, turned the key and it cranked. And nothing happened. Cranked smooth
as can be, but not even a cough or a sputter. So that's where I stand.
I'm getting spark, and there's fuel in the cylinders, so those things
appear to be ruled out. I checked the connections to all of the sensors in
case I'd knocked anything loose, but nothing showed up.
So, my question for now is, will severly bent valves prevent the engine
from even coughing & sputtering? I would think that even with no
compression whatsoever, I might get a little bit of popping noise or
something. Nope, nada, zilch.
Tomorrow, I'm going to pick up a compression tester & see what I've got.
I'm betting 0-0-0-0... any takers?
Thanks for any help & advice,
Allen Belletti
'94 TSi AWD (dead)
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:51:44 +1100
"Michael Quinn" <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G][T]What are the diffs between 1G and 2G
Message-ID: <#52>
I have a Galant VR4 (In Australia) 1991 model , Turbo, AWD, 4WS. This is
obviously a 1G car. I love the way it goes etc.
I am curious about power output of different versions of the 4G63B Turbo
motor
as it exists in various incarnations
eg. Mitsu Galant VR4 1990 - 1992
147KW ~ 205HP
in Japan there was (I believe a "Cyclone" motor) 176KW ~ 240HP
Mitsu EVO IV
200KW ~ 280HP
My question is this
Is it possible to fit a 2G motor to a 1G car, if not, why, if so what are the
gotchas.
I assume that the full loom and ECU is available.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:43:03 -0500
Message-ID: <#53>
[much knee-jerk drivel deleted]
Grrrrr...
Keeping in mind that I _do not_ have anything whatsoever to do with the
engineering and product development folks, and that the domain on my
e-mail address does not give this post any "official" credence in any
way, shape, or form, and that Mr Eaton and friends do not keep me
informed about what the company is up to - I have been hearing
persistent rumours of a 100% Chrysler AWD turbocharged 2+2 coupe for
release in 2000-ish.
That bears repeating - It's a rumour! I don't know for sure! I have no
inside info at all! There's no "wink, wink, nudge nudge" in this post!
Don't ask me for specs, I don't know 'em!
The Detroit auto show is this week, and I'll be going on Saturday. I'll
let you know if a show car like this turns up.
DG
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:42:15 -0600 (CST)
From: Warren C Daniel <[email protected]>
Subject: Chicago DSM Meeting
Message-ID: <#54>
Hi Everybody,
I'm sorry I couldn't make the DSM meeting. I helped organize it,
but I had some problems along the way. Those of you who did
make it probably met my buddy Chip and heard what
happened. He brought all the BMW types.
I heard it was a big turn out--10 DSMs and 13 BMWs. And in the
rain! I was very impressed! My best friend (95 TSi) and I would have
been there, but we had an incident along the way.
We were heading to Dave and Busters at about 5:30pm on Saturday.
We wanted to get there early and set up. On the way, on Route 53
going south, a guy in a cheap-a$$ '89 Chevy Cavalier Z-24
started shooting at my car! I wasn't thinking, "Oh my God!" or
"He's shooting at me!" I was pissed off. I'm thinking, "What?
Awww... Dude,
why you gotta be shootin' at my car!" I told my best friend to get behind the
guy and get his license plate number as I called 911 on my mobile
phone.
I was patched in with Schaumburg Police and the Illinois State Troopers.
My buddy and I slowed down and blocked up traffic as I told the police
what the guy looked like and what he was driving. Since he was behind us,
he jumped off at Higgins Road. We couldn't follow him. We stopped on the
emergency lane as I watch him and told the police he was heading west on
Higgins.
The police said they were sending out everything they had. My buddy and
I got out and check the damage to my car. Incrediably, there was NO DAMAGE
to my car! The guy was less than 10 ft away and not a single scratch!
The police said they were doing their best to catch him and said they'd call
me back on my mobile if they caught him. I'm thinking, "Yeah, right. They're
gonna call back in a week and say, 'Sorry, we didn't catch anyone." 5 mins
later, the police called me back going, "WE GOT HIM! WE GOT HIM!"
They asked us to come to the Schaumburg Police Dept. My buddy and I were
excited. We made it to Lake St., but hauled a big "U"ie and jumped back on the
expressway. We got to the police station and spent the next 6 and 1/2 hours
talking to the police, troopers, and an Illinois States Attorney. The cops said it
was easy to pick this guy up because of the description we gave--"Black,
Cavalier Z-24, cheesy black tint windows, polished chrome wheels, dual pipe
exhaust, gigantic Chevy bow tie in the back window." The cops were out in
force. One spotted him instantly 'cause this guy was driving such a
gauddy car. As my best friend said, "If criminals were smart, they
wouldn't be criminals.
Anyhow, this guy was an idiot. On him, they found a .25 cal automatic,
3 bullets left in the gun, brass knuckels, pagers and other crap.
A gangsta wanna punk looking for trouble. He admitted to the police that he,
"Got a little upset and started shooting." He went on to say that he was "trying
to kill" me by "shooting through the back windshield of my car and hitting
me in the head."! How's that for some $h!t!
Turns out this is some 21 year old, Italian, punk kid from LA! Do people
regularly get upset and start shooting at people in LA? What'd up West
I could understand if we cut in front of him and pissed him off but my
buddy and I were doing the speed limit! Nice and legal like!
Andway, I pressed charges and this dickhead is in jail. Noone got hurt
and my car is okay. We'll go to court in about a month.
So again, sorry I didn't make the meeting. Super apologies go
out to Stan--looks like this is the second time I've stood you
up! Dave of the Chicago chapter, is there a way we can
arrange a Club DSM meet once a month or something?
I'm in for the next meet.
Signed,
Warren
96 GS-T "Bulletproof!"
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:05:42 -0500
From: [email protected] (Mad Mark the Code Warrior)
Subject: Re: Kill the Talon
Message-ID: <#55>
>Maybe the extra $2.00 that Chrysler spent on advertising the Talon will be
given
>to Mitsubishi so that a real advertising campaign (like Honda or Saturn) can
be
>launched.
What $2? I don't believe that I ever saw an add for a Talon on TV... but I did
see plenty of Eclipse adds! Those braindead incompetant VP's at Chrysler
needed to get their a$$e$ kicked for being so bloody stupid. They had THE C &
D Car of the year... was it just one or was it 2 years in a row, and those
morons could not capitalize on that!
They were offering Talons at substantially lower prices than Eclipses and were
still outsold. I don't know why anyone would pay a grand more for the same car
with with slightly different trim and a different moniker. I see only one
place to lay the blame: Chrysler's incompetant marketeers who thought they
could play in the same league as their competant counterparts at Mistubishi.
>Sorry to anger some of you but this is what I think and I can't sit and watch
>some of you trying to save the Talon line without saying something. I'm not
>dogging the car because I love it. I just don't think the Talon line should
>be saved. Let the sales be Mitsubishi where it really should be. Its where
>the real import customers are anyway.
I must disagree with that last statement. It implies that we bought DSM cars
because they are imports. You are oh so wrong. AWD bang for the buck was my
sole criteria. No other car came close. I looked over American RWD's sports
cars - Z28's, Mustangs... I couldn't believe how crappy they were: fit,
finish, material, and the last straw: solid rear axle. I considered Toyota's
(priced like they were made out of titanium), Subaru's and Saabs. No
competion.
A friend of mine was leaning Mitsubishi, but he seemed to believe that that
Eclipse was made with higher quality parts and workmanship and he liked the
mags better. I pointed out to him that $1500 dollars buys alot of wheel!
Why did I choose Talon over Mistubishi? Simply because the Mistubishi
salesmen
were greedier than the Eagle salesmen to the tune of about $1500. I got my car
at about $200 over invoice... yeah I could've done better if I'ld worked a
little more, but there was a trade-in involved and I did really well with
that, and so did they!
Chrysler's inability to succeed has nothing to do with the product or the
name, it's the marketing, after all, they succeeded with the Caravan as Ford
did with the Taurus. I can't believe that they paid some dipsticks hundreds
of dollars an hour to mismanage a multimillion doallar market segment. How
dow
I get one of those jobs?
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:28:06 -0700
From: guillermo_polo <[email protected]>
Subject: Viper GTS running 11's.
Message-ID: <#57>
>1/4 mi. times have been from 12.2 to 12.7 I think also. Shoot, with slicks
>it's probably like 11something.
Actually a friend of mine took his 100% bone stock Viper GTS to the track
and ran an 11.80 @ 120.01 MPH. I was happy for him but dissapointed that
his bone stock GTS betered my modded Supra;( Which by the way has ran a
best of 12.18 @ 116.8 MPH.
Later,
Guilly
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:59:56 +0000
From: "Dan Bruski - Applications Engineer/Physicist" <[email protected]>
Subject: High speed stutter, Oil cap leak
Message-ID: <#58>
Happy 98
I posted a few weeks back about oil spewing out all over my engine, pools of
oil on the manifold, in the spark plug bay, all down the front of the block...
I replaced the cap and all is well. This solution was echoed by at least 5 or
6 others on the list. For most of the others, the gasket was so brittle that
it cracked and broke in pieces, mine was still intact but obviously stiff.
Thanks to everyone who posted and to Todd.
Enough with the good news, now a problem:
Sometimes when I floor it, I get a violent stuttering problem. I'll be in 3rd
say, and then floor it, at about 5k RPM and at full boost (from stock gauge),
the car's acceleration will cut real quick, then pick back up again(I still
have foot on gas), then cut, then pick back up again... this all cycles really
fast and then I usually take my foot off. It can do this in any gear, it
doesn't seem to do it when reving in neutral.
It doesn't do it every time I drive the car. Each trip is either good, or
bad. If it acts up once, I can get it to do it each time...
Any advice.
[Read http://www.tmo.com/faq/diagport/970929.htm -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:01:57 -0600
From: "Shawn Murphy" <[email protected]>
Subject: Celica on the Cam
Message-ID: <#59>
FRom the December 29, 1997 Autoweek, World News section, page 1:
"Celica gets on the cam. Toyota has applied its variable valve timing and
lift technology to the 2.0-liter four in the Celica, boosting horsepower
from 180 to 200. The VVT-I system also increases torque from 141 to 152 lb
ft at 6000 rpm. The engine is used in both the standard body SS-II and the
wider SS-III, which has an aero kit, large rear spoler and body-colored
alloy wheels, like the Acura Integra Type-R. TOYOTA SAYS THAT IT PLANS TO
EXPORT THE VVT-I ENGINE TO THE STATES."
This means that if Toyota plans to drop this engine in the U.S. Celica, it
could mean some more competition for the 3G, whatever Mitsubishi decides to
do with it. Plus you get Toyota reliability. When is Mitsubishi going to
bring MIVEC to the states?
Shawn Murphy
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 11:34:27 -0500
From: [email protected] (Mung Bungholio)
Subject: Help! 94 Talon NT
Message-ID: <#60>
The worst thing that could have happened to me did. Well Not the worst I
could have wrecked my DSM, but almost as bad. I left for work Tuesday
morning and the car sounded a little louder than normal. It was a little
cold (at least for Florida) around 45 or so. About a mile down the road
the engine just stopped. So I got it towed to the place I bought it and
they took the valve cover off. The intake side is hosed bent valves big
scars in the cam. The exhaust side seems ok as of now. The timing belt
was replaced about 3,000 miles ago but now is missing half of the teeth.
Any body have any idea what could have happened? It seems like for some
unknown reason one of the valves got stuck and tore the t-belt and cam to
hell. I was in 5th gear at about 2500 rpm when it happened and hadn't had
it above 6000 rpm before that. I now have a 10 thousand dollar car that I
can't drive. The machine shop says that the person that put the T-Belt on
did it wrong. They said there is something special you have to do to put
the belt on and that I needed to get the paper from Mitsu's tech support on
how to do it right. Anybody else ever heard of this. I need to try and
prove that the dealership I bought the car from screwed the T-Belt up so I
can try to get them to pay some or all of the $1000 bill. Thanks in
advance to anyone that can help. I will try to get the T-Belt back and
take some pics so that everyone can see how the teeth in the spot the
intake cam was just separated from the other part of the T-Belt. Like the
belt was a retread tire almost. Anyway thanks again.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:58:16 -0600 (CST)
Subject: The 16G club
Message-ID: <#61>
Yo Bats,
> Can someone tell me a 'safe' boost level with a 16G, fat innercooler
> pipe, alamo I/C, and upgraded fuel pump?
up to 15 psi without a fuel pump upgrade.
up to 18 psi with upgrade on pump gas.
up to 22 or 24 on hi-octane.
Warren
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:08:57 -0500
From: Benjamin Peck <[email protected]>
Subject: Fading Interior Lights, YUCK! (1G)
Message-ID: <#62>
Hiya,
Does anybody know how (if it's possible) to disable the fading interior
lights (90 Talon AWD)? I don't like the way they work with my
(aftermarket) alarm. I would like them to be either on, or off, not in
between. My alarm takes care of turning them on when you get in, the
fading just messes it up when I try to disarm, arm quickly.
[There is a unit that does this fading. I'm pretty sure you could do
something to bypass the unit, like replace it with a relay. -talon mgr]
Thanks!
Ben Peck
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 98 12:09:25 -0600
From: "Kyle Woolsey"<[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Painting Calipers
Message-ID: <#63>
>$50 for paint didn't seem right
>to me, so I was wondering if anybody here knew of a cheaper way to reliably
>paint your calipers.
Here's what I did:
Went to Pep Boys and spent $2.99 on high-temp engine block paint (spray can).
I
went with silver but they have dark-red and black colors also. I always thought
the red calipers looked cheesy on anything less than a Porsche, and the silver
complements the wheels and exhaust well.
Removed each wheel and thoroughly cleaned the calipers with a Fantastic
degreaser/cleaner. Dried them.
To apply the paint, I sprayed paint into the spray can's lid until I had a small
puddle of paint in it. Then I brushed the paint onto the caliper with a hobby
paint brush (from my car modeling days). Gave each of them a good coat.
Brushing the paint on gave it a professional appearance without the hassle of
masking or runs.
The result was a bright silver caliper that looked powdercoated, was easy to
clean and looked awesome. It's been over a year since I painted them and the
paint has held up well to the heat and NEVER cracked.
Hope this helps,
Kyle '95 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:36:00 -0800
From: "McCord, Dave" <[email protected]>
Subject: FW: 1990 Eagle Talon shimmy - Help
Message-ID: <#64>
I have just read "Luis Tips" on wheels and balancing.
I Hope you can help. no one has been able to thus far.
My 1990 Talon AWD developed a shimmy about 3 years ago.
It has been to 3 Jeep Eagle dealers and 3 independent garages.
I have had the following done.
new wheels
new tires (balanced twice)
alignment
new steering rack
new struts
new u joints
new wheel bearings
new pilot bearing
CV shafts examined - excellent shape
tie rods, ball joints examined - excellent shape
total spent - about $2,000
the car still shakes at 60-65 mph. ( both the steering wheel and the
seat shake )
What else is left? Where can I take the car in the Puget Sound area to
fix this. It's driving me nuts.
[You ever have a full end-to-end alignment check? It almost sounds
like your front end might not be aligned with your rear end, and
the car is crabbing or something. This is pretty much straw grasping,
but you've already done all the "obvious" checking already.
-talon mgr]
In the archives several folks say warped rotors, yet others say it has
made no difference. There are 2 TSBs concerning vibration - 090794 in
April of 94, and 225192 in Feb of 92. But I have no access to them. Are
they any help?
Thanks for your time
Dave McCord
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:02:35 -0700
From: Robert Deis <[email protected]>
Subject: Bra = Hot Start Prob?
Message-ID: <#65>
We had some unseasonably warm weather in CO for the past week, and I
noticed the famed "hot start problem" for the first time.
The interesting part is that it's been warmer than this before and I
didn't have the problem. I put a bra on the car, and I'm wondering if
there's any possibility that the two are linked? My dad, who also has
the problem on occasion, mounts a bra, and a friend of mine only seems
to have the problem in winter, when he also mounts a bra. (He doesn't
remember it happening last summer when the bra was off)
Anyone else notice this pattern? I'm thinking that the bra may reduce
ventilation enough when the car is parked to heat up (or, rather,
prevent cooling of) the engine compartment and cause a vapor lock...
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:58:00 -0600
From: "Wiegandt, Ted J." <[email protected]>
Subject: Hesitation, Ignition system
Message-ID: <#66>
My 92 Tsi has been hesitating for a while now and is starting to get
worse. It is mainly at midrange rpm's. It used to happen every once in
a while and now happens about every other time I accelerate. My gas
mileage has been getting worse as well. I've changed the plugs and have
about 1 year old 8.5 mm Magnacores for wires. Could this be due to the
ignition coil or is it more of an all or nothing type of thing? I tried
to test the coil but could not get to the harness with my meter probes.
I'd really appreciate any input. Also could you cc your response to
[email protected] (my work account)
since my computer at home died and I won't have access to the digest for
a couple of weeks.
Thanks,
Ted Wiegandt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
Talon Digest for Tuesday, January 6, 1998
Today's Topics:
1) gselph
ball stud, 3500rpm vibration fixed, timing belt fa
2) Jaime Emmanuelli
3rd gear performance disappointments.
3) Jeff Fritz
[2G,T] Lifters, valve stem seals, cam seal
4) SweetJT
Combat Kit
5) N.B.Camene
Nitto Nationals,Cyberdyne problem, JET ECU
6) Danny Yoo
Big Brake stuff
7) TSi91Turbo
weird computer problem
8) vandeburg
Satan Strikes Again
9) Robert Arrowood
Fuel Inj. Management System
10) TurboMike
2G factory alarm disable
11) Daniel Ingevaldson [3g] Detroit Autoshow
12) Kevin Shimp
need advice on painting calipers
13) Paul Lyons
oil cap gasket [all]
14) Thomas A Brady
Car Sounds
Re: sticker price
16) Arman Nikzad
What is Spindle/Wheel Lightning ?
17) Matt Jannusch
Re: Kill the Talon
18) Matt Jannusch
Re: Celica on the Cam
20) Brett
re: PMS vs. VPC : Drag Radials?
21) Hopkins John (DPD) War story & tire review
22) Jeff Brinkerhoff
O2 sensor wasn't it...help please
23) Rob O
Engine swaps
24) Michael A. Stegbauer Talon nameplate, VC diffs, misc, spring adjusters?
25) Mike Murphy
springs
26) Jeff Brinkerhoff
O2 sensor - one more thing
27) Howard Draper
GVR4 stumble fixed
28) gwgill2
1g, paint code info
29) Brian Beal
Re:[1g,t] More timing belt saga...
31) BlueTalon2
RE:FW: 1990 Eagle Talon shimmy - Help
32) Dan Bruski - Applica fuel cut type bucking
33)
34)
35)
36)
Tom Tennant
Stock Boost, BOV's (2G,T)
Jack
"big mouth bumper"
Khanh Dinh
RE: Walbro 2G fuel pump noise/ Buschur "Beetle" do
Farzaan Kassam
War Stories.
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 98 15:09:06 EST
Subject: ball stud, 3500rpm vibration fixed, timing belt failures
Message-ID: <#1>
>When you have the transmission out, remove the ball stud that the clutch fork
>pivots on. Place 1/8" worth of washers on the threaded end and reinstall the
>ball stud into the tranny.
I tried this trick when I had my tranny out but with only one washer. It was
a little less than an 1/8", but not by much. It still disengaged right off
the floor. I do think it's a great idea and the next time I have to pull the
tranny, I'll put some more washers in there.
For anyone experiencing a vibration at approximately 3500 rpm, I found a
loose bolt on my catalytic converter heat shield that when tightened, caused
all the vibration to go away. Well for a few days anyway. I then took the
whole heat shield out completely and all is smooth and quiet.
For the guy who asked about the Marc Hallman boost controller, it paid big
dividends for me. I was unable to get anything above 23psi with my homemade
bleeder but I can get 25psi repeatedly with the Hallman controller. I think
the difference lies in the spring loaded ball and seat design. The spring
keeps the ball pressed against the seat until it is ready to open at whatever
boost you dial in. With my homemade bleeder, there was always a "hole" open
regardless of boost. I was essentially blowing usable boost right out of my
bleeder in order to control boost, and that made it impossible to achieve and
continue to maintain maximum pressure.
Allen Belletti and I both had timing belt failures this weekend. Mine was
caused by a nut that holds the engine mount to the block that came loose and
became wedged between the belt and the top cover. It wasn't pretty. The
belt was cut around the entire circumference and had a small gash that went
all the way through at one spot. I found the nut rammed half-way through the
top cover. Scarey. The crankshaft had only rotated about two teeth in
relation to the camshafts, so I was very lucky. No damage done.
Unfortuantely, we think Allen wasn't so lucky. His crankshaft rotated a full
180 degrees in relation to the camshafts. Even scarier. A compression test
tonight will tell the true damage, but it won't even crank right now, so the
outlook is not too good.
My belt failure was a freak accident. Maybe a nut that I forgot to tighten
when I swapped blocks last spring, I dunno. That little sucker is now loctite'd and torqued properly. My belt only had about 20k miles on it.
Allen's car only has about 46k miles (I think) and he's not exactly sure of
the cause of the slipping. Our guess is that the cover somehow came in
contact with the belt, as there is some silver-colored plastic-type material
all over the belt.
On to more happy news, I found a really cool and CHEAP cosmetic mod. I got
some 6" x 48" deluxe rain gutter guard at Home Depot for $1.08 per piece that
looks awesome in the front openings of our cars. Some of the magazine cars
have a similar mesh up front and it really adds a nice touch. I used some of
the plastic fasteners that hold the bumper cover on to hold it in places and
I used ty-wraps in other places. Pop-rivets might also do well, but I didn't
bother. I'll take pics and try to get John Moore to post them on his Club
DSM SE page soon.
Tom, sorry to hear about the bad news buddy.
I hope everyone had a great holiday,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:36:09 -0800
From: Jaime Emmanuelli <[email protected]>
Subject: 3rd gear performance disappointments.
Message-ID: <#2>
I know that DSMs are super fast taking off in 1st and 2nd gear but more than
once I've been almost cougt by cars with a *lot* less horsepower than I
have.
My stock 97 GS-T is really fast taking off but once you get into 3rd gear
the performance is not as dramatic. In fact, just the other day I dusted a
brand new Accord v-tec from about 0-60, HOWEVER, after I went into 3rd
gear I could see him closing in at a fairly quick rate! I believe the
4-cyl. v-tec Accord has only about 150hp.
This is not the first time. A couple of months ago an old 1985 300zx
(200hp) flew by me like like rocket after I got into 3rd gear.
Is this expected with a stock turbo?
J
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 17:29:31 -0500
From: "Jeff Fritz" <[email protected]>
Subject: [2G,T] Lifters, valve stem seals, cam seal
Message-ID: <#3>
Great HTML Digest & new archive searcher, Todd! Props!
Did a search on a few problems I've been having with my car. Just took it
to the dealer to see if they would fix my lifters and timing belt noise. NO
WAY. They say my car is "race modified, and you have added a turbo"
(Hmmmmm...I thought the GS-T came with a turbo). Told them I didn't change
the turbo, but the manager says no warranty work, buddy (in not so few
words). Anybody in NJ know a shop who will do the warranty work? All I
have done to my car is a pre-95 BOV, cat-back exhaust and K&N (as far as
mods that would increase real world performance) Should I try to fight the
dealer?
[Please let us know the name of this idiot shop so we can all stay away.
-talon mgr]
I was told my lifters need replacing, and my valve stem seals are bad.
Racks up to ~$700 for the work. Anyone do this themselves? A buddy at work
says he'd make a spark plug adapter for me to feed the cylinders compressed
air to keep the valves up when I change the gaskets. Is it a difficult job?
Any what kind of $$ are we talking for the parts?
Does anyone make roller rockers for our cars? Is there a big difference in
$ from factory lifters? I figure if I'm going to have it done, might as
well do it right.
I also have a cam seal leak on the timing belt side. Is it impossible to
"fix" without having to remove the timing belt?
It seems that valve stem seals are a big culprit in the overuse of oil.
Anyone out there with excessive oil loss (And I KNOW I've seen alot of posts
on the subject), look into it.
It's a long list, but hopefully replies can help others w/ similiar
problems.
Thanx in advanceJeff Fritz
95 GS-T w/ the 97 nose (Dealer quote: "I hope that front end doesn't void
your warranty.")
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:38:33 -0500
Subject: Combat Kit
Message-ID: <#4>
Has anyone on the list bought the Andy's Auto Sport combat kit?
http://www.andysautosport.com how was the intall?
Jonathan Sweet
'95 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:40:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Nitto Nationals,Cyberdyne problem, JET ECU
Message-ID: <#5>
Well, I have to say that for my first import event the Nitto Nationals in
West Palm this weekend were unreal. To see Vinny Ten run a 10.26 was
unreal! There was one bad wreck also...not good! Anyway, my main purpose
of writing to my fellow DSM'ers is a prob that I am having with my
Cyberdyne. The lights on it go up and down like usual until suddenly they
stop somewhere and remain there for sometimes minutes. This is with the cars
lights(head) off. When the cars lights are on, the unit does the same thing
but if I turn the cockpit dimmer switch down and back up to bright the unit
seems to reset and functions normally again. If anyone has a clue what the
prob is, please let me know.
I also want to know if anyone else has been RIPPED OFF by JET? Am I
the only dumb a** that has the upgrade from them and sees NO RESULTS? Let
me know!
PS I would also like to say it was a pleasure to meet the Ft. Lauderdale
group of Club DSM! You guys are great!
Nick
"Valu-Jet"
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 19:35:32 -0800
From: Danny Yoo <[email protected]>
Subject: Big Brake stuff
Message-ID: <#6>
Hi all,
I bought big brake calipers and rotors a few months ago, and I haven't
gotten around to putting them in until now. A couple things:
1) The brakes are pretty dirty, covered with paint and all. Once I get the
paint off, is there anything that I should take apart and clean or rebuild?
(I.e. greasing pins, etc.) Any parts which I have to be wary of not getting
solvent into, like pistons?
2) I need new pads, and I heard Metal Matrix is a good street pad. Do
aftermarket pads come with shims and anti-squeal pads, or can these be
bought seperately elsewhere (in Canada)?
3) Is wheel bearing grease sufficient for the temps experienced by brake
parts? I haven't been able to find any brake grease per se.
TIA and have an on-the-boost, accident free, ticketless but never reckless,
New Year
Danny
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 22:57:43 EST
From: TSi91Turbo <[email protected]>
Subject: weird computer problem
Message-ID: <#7>
I had something very strange happen to my 91 talon tsi awd today. I started
up my car and every once in awhile it has been wanting to die on me once I
first start the car, ever since I did the egr block off. so I ususaly give it
a little gas so it does not die. Well today I give it a little gas and all the
sudden the computer starts making this ticking sound, and the rpm guage
starts
jumping between 2400 and 1200, and I mean the guage is moving fast not the
normal way a rpm guage moves. as the computer made the ticking noise the
rpm
guage would jump, the ticking noise would stop and the rpm guage would go to
normal... the computer would tick again and the rpm guage would start
jumping.
I shut the car off...started it right back up and it does the samething...iam
getting scared now...I shut it off let it sit for about 1 minute start it
up and everything was fine...did not even want to die. drove it to work and
back home...iam pretty sure it was the computer because its the same tick
noise that the computer makes when my knock sensor led light goes out after I
shut off the car...I checked the codes all normal. anyone ever had this
happen to them? I would greatly appricate any info anyone can give me Thanks
in advance
[The 1200 to 2400 rapidly is no surprise. That is the ECU only supplying
spark to half of the cylinders. This happens when it detects a problem in
the spark firing circuitry. I've seen that before. However, I think it
is only seeing this "problem" due to a greater problem, obviously electrical.
I would open up the ECU and see if there are any signs of leakage around
the capacitors on the board. Then I would make sure the regulator on my
alternator was within limits. -talon mgr]
Robert Sherman
91 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 00:41:08 -0500
Subject: Satan Strikes Again
Message-ID: <#8>
Well here's another story about satan. If any of you recall a couple
weeks ago I posted that satan wouldn't give me the recall on the TB and
wanted to charge me an outragous price on replacing my passenger side
window motor. Well, after some phone calls and some serious arm
twisting they did the belt for free but still charged me big time for
the window motor.
So anyway after having my car for a week because they ordered
the wrong water pump (I had the other belts changed too) they finally
have it done. I work until 9:00 PM to work around my school schedule
and they close at 8:00 so I paid over the phone with my credit card and
had them hide the keys under the floor mat. When I got there I opened
the passanger door to throw my duffle bag in and low and behold the
inner door panel falls to the ground, they never reattached it after
they replaced the motor. Strange enough to piss me off, but there's
nothing I can do about it since they're closed. I find the keys, start
it up, let it warm up and drive home. I get up the next morning to go
to my first class, and went out to warm up my car since it was only 20
degrees out turn the key and this god-awful noise comes from the engine.
So I turn the car off, pop the hood and look at my belts, they were so
loose I could move them up and down a quarter to a half inch, in other
words loose as crap. No big deal, I grab my tool kit and tightened them
up and restarted the car, no squeal but the dang thing idles so rough I
would have sworn it had rough idle cams in it. After my classes I took
it back to satan. They checked it out and said that it was because of
my cut up air box! So I said why then didn't it do that before you
worked on it. He said "You must not have noticed before because your
water pump was squealing." So I said whatever I gotta go to work and
left it at that. I know something isn't right, it actually idled a
little higher after I chopped the box and now it fluctuates between 550
and 650 rpms. Did they screw up the timing? Has anybody had this
problem? How do I check the cam timing? If anybody ever has a problem
with their T/E/L while in Holland MI, never take it to Elhart Jeep Eagle
Chrysler Pontiac. They charge way to much, they'll screw you over and
don't stand behind they're work. Sorry bout' the long post.
Erick
92' TSI A/T
P.S. Hey Todd, do I need to change anything in the ECU when putting the
440 cc injectors in my A/T
[Yes, I believe you'll need to get the code for the manual tranny cars.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 00:04:37 -0600
From: "Robert Arrowood" <[email protected]>
Subject: Fuel Inj. Management System
Message-ID: <#9>
Well, I have not posted since last year! HA HA! Couldn't help that.
Be warned this is long.
I stumbled across a fuel management system for fuel injection cars.
Here is the link to their WEB site:
http://www.sdsefi.com/
I have not read any of the material other than the first few sentences,
so I am not sure if we can use this or not.
I have an HKS exhaust that I need to get rid of. First, one of the
welds needs to be redone, it is leaking from rust. Pipes are in good
condition. Second, the muffler has a quarter size hole in the bottom.
So, if you need an exhaust pipe, but don't have much money, you can
have this HKS pipe for FREE if you pick up cost of shipping. Let me
know if you want it. It is coming off of my 90 Talon AWD. I now have
a Buschur 3".
BTW, DaveB, the exhaust is sweet. I love the sound!. I should get
more "hits" now while driving around town. Would you believe some
idiot at MIDAS told me not to put the 3" on my car or else it would be
extremely SLOW! What A Moron! I feel like going back and
challenging that stupid 95 Cobra in his parking lot - nah not worth the
trouble or the gas!
[RTP - Non-DSM content]
I need some help locating the name of a company or even a WEB link if
possible. Several years ago there was a company making a specialty
vehicle called "The Pulse". It was a tandem seat vehicle that used a
motorcycle engine and with a claimed 70mpg. Basically they constructed
a frame and then put this bullet looking body on it with little wing
thingies. The vehicle was basically a two wheeler but the "wings" had
small wheels on them but only touched when turning. The "wings"
actually created down force instead of lift. The "door" looked like a
fighter plane canopy and slid forward if my memory serves me correctly.
Please RTP if you have any info...
Robert Arrowood
1990 Talon Tsi AWD - XCLRATN
8.7sec 1/8 mile @ 78mph
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 02:21:55 -0500
From: TurboMike <[email protected]>
Subject: 2G factory alarm disable
Message-ID: <#10>
Going off the 95-96 electrical manual (97+ alarm might be slightly
different):
The alarm is all part of the ETACS-ECU (controls cruise, interior
lights, CD changer, sunroof, gauges) and theres no way to cut power
just to the alarm without disabling some other function of the ETACS.
The alarm will only arm when the ignition key is removed, but the
the ETACS-ECU uses the Key Reminder Switch to control other stuff
so we cant disable that. Lets look at output: We can pull
the alarm horn relay and the alarm starter relay, but the headlights
and normal horn will still sound. Also, we cant get it to not lock
and unlock the doors since the ETACS controls that too, so we'd
have to cut the wire from the transmitter receiver to the ETACS-ECU.
So if you want the factory alarm to not arm with the transmitter,
all you have to do is cut the wire from the receiver to the ETACS.
Receiver is in the driver's side rear seat panel ahead of the speaker.
The alarm WILL still arm when you lock the doors with the key. The
only way I see to be able to lock the doors with the key and still
disable the alarm is to cut all outputs from the alarm. Cut one
wire that flashes headlights and sounds car horn, run wires in the
relays that kill the starter and sound alarm horns. Basically the
alarm will trigger but not do anything.
Sounds like this "factory kill chip" which is prolly just a plug
between two connectors that does the above rewiring might be easier
if its cheap. Or you can swap your ETACS with someone who doesnt
have the factory alarm. Anybody know how the dealers disable the
alarm?
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 03:33:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Daniel Ingevaldson <[email protected]>
Subject: [3g] Detroit Autoshow
Message-ID: <#11>
Well, I found out that the 3g concept IS at the detroit autoshow.
Unfortunately, I can't seem to find any information about it besides the
fact that it exists. Check this url:
http://detnews.com/1998/autos/9801/04/12310037.htm
If anyone knows anything or can find pictures, please post.
Dan Ingevaldson
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 05:45:26 PST
From: "Kevin Shimp" <[email protected]>
Subject: need advice on painting calipers
Message-ID: <#12>
My first post of the new year...gonna keep it short.
I want to paint the brakes(calipers, etc) on my 95 TSi in preperation
for possible adding larger, open spoked rims. What kind of paint should
I use? I heard some paints can turn color from the heat, or caused the
heat to be trapped, wreaking havoc on the brakes. I just want to do
them in a nice black color(no wild colors)
Thanks
Kevin
1995 Talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 08:12:13 -0600
Subject: oil cap gasket [all]
Message-ID: <#13>
>I replaced the cap and all is well. This solution was echoed by at least 5 or
>6 others on the list. For most of the others, the gasket was so brittle that
>it cracked and broke in pieces, mine was still intact but obviously stiff.
Dunno if you bought the whole cap but the gasket itself can be had
for 1$ instead of the 12$ for the whole cap. Dunno if RRE still does
this but their web page stated a free gasket with any part order.
Apparantly it's a pet peeve of theirs. Hope this helps.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:13:28 -0500 (EST)
From: Thomas A Brady <[email protected]>
Subject: Car Sounds
Message-ID: <#14>
I have noticed lately on my 1G GSX that as I drive at highway
speeds (mostly around 70mph), my car makes an omnious wha-wha-wha-wha
sound. It's not the wheels since as soon as I let off the gas, the sound
stops. I notice it only occurs around cruising speeds. Does anyone know
what could be the cause?
TIA
Tom
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 08:31:25 -0600
Subject: Re: sticker price
Message-ID: <#15>
>Also getting service arranged is made a little easier for me.
>Was this cause I paid more than $500 over invoice? Who knows.
>But if I keep getting service like this, I'll stick with the
>same dealer and overpay for new cars.
Greg & all:
I paid 300 over invoice for my 96 AWD Talon, but I still get treated
with respect from my dealer. If your dealer is treating you better or
worse than their other customers, I suggest you look for another
dealer. They should be treating all of their customers with equal
respect. You should expect nothing less. After all, if you're getting
treated better than another customer, its likely that some other
customer is getting even better treatment than you. They're making
money on service one way or another, the sale of the car is merely a
means to an end - sell you a car that you'll bring in to their service
department for the life of the car.
Just my opinion. Standard disclaimers apply.
Jim
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 98 09:45:51 EST
From: [email protected] (Arman Nikzad)
Subject: What is Spindle/Wheel Lightning ?
Message-ID: <#16>
Hi everbody,
While browsing a turbo dist. page on the net,
I came across a service they offer, it's called
spindle/wheel lightening and their claim is that
it yields upto 600 RPM drop in spool-time and up
to 2 lbs of extra boost at max. output.
Anyone care to comment or enlighten me.
Thanks in advance
Arman Nikzad
95 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 98 09:36:20 -0600
Message-ID: <#17>
>They were offering Talons at substantially lower prices than Eclipses and
were
>still outsold. I don't know why anyone would pay a grand more for the same
car
>with with slightly different trim and a different moniker. I see only one
>place to lay the blame: Chrysler's incompetant marketeers who thought they
>could play in the same league as their competant counterparts at Mistubishi.
People pay a grand more for the "same" car because the Eclipse's always seem
to
have a higher resale and trade-in value, as well as having more standard items
where they are options in the Talon. Not to mention that Mitsubishi knows
where
the spoiler is supposed to go, at least on the 2G cars.
>Chrysler's inability to succeed has nothing to do with the product or the
>name, it's the marketing, after all, they succeeded with the Caravan as Ford
>did with the Taurus. I can't believe that they paid some dipsticks hundreds
>of dollars an hour to mismanage a multimillion doallar market segment. How
dow
>I get one of those jobs?
Hmmm... Maybe part of it is that people don't think "Eagle" when they try to
think of a sporty performance car. Same reason why Dodge's Stealth sales
fell into the toilet (or was it that they made the same mistake with the spoiler
on the Stealth... Hmmm...) I think that Eagle (as well as Plymouth) didn't
have an image to build upon, there wasn't anything that made people want to
take a look on their lots if they didn't already know about the fun-factor of
the Talon. Hard to sell a sports car to the Jeep SUV crowd.
Can't say that Mitsubishi's current ads are much better than nothing though.
The
woman learning a foreign language in the Spyder GS-T is definately not much of
a
sports car image builder. The Galant commercials are more exciting than the
Eclipse ads now, and you NEVER see a 3000GT ad.
Oh well...
Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX (with the optional dipstick ejector)
'90 Eclipse GS 2.0
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 98 09:39:36 -0600
Subject: Re: Celica on the Cam
Message-ID: <#18>
>This means that if Toyota plans to drop this engine in the U.S. Celica, it
>could mean some more competition for the 3G, whatever Mitsubishi decides
to
>do with it. Plus you get Toyota reliability. When is Mitsubishi going to
>bring MIVEC to the states?
MIVEC is already available on the non-turbo 3000GT's. Hopefully if it will
help, it will be on the 3G, although I wonder if it would help a turbo car
at all. I'd never buy a non-turbo 3G, the turbo is the whole character of
the car!
[If MIVEC is anything like the VANOS system on the M3 engine I now have in
my garage :-( it will be impossible to adapt it to the previous gens'
heads. If you want to retrofit your earlier generation car with MIVEC,
you'll have to stick with whatever head Mitsu puts on the 3Gs. Something
tells me that head will still not flow as well as the 1G... -talon mgr]
~Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
'90 Eclipse GS-2.0
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 08:05:01 -0800
Subject: re: PMS vs. VPC : Drag Radials?
Message-ID: <#20>
>You might argue I didn't have the PMS tuned properly. That may be so.
>I did have it for 18 months and I DID tune the thing A LOT! I broke
>rings, burned pistons, and melted a cylinder head with the PMS in
>control. Well, all that was due to my tuning guesswork WITHOUT the
>datalogger. Whatever. I am the same guy that had the PMS in the car
>for 18 months and now I have a VPC and the VPC clearly OUTPERFORMS the
>PMS!
You definitely didn't have it tuned properly. I have a 2g with a PMS and no
data logger software, only my guages and what I read off the screen on the
PMS. It does take time to learn, however the VPC cannot do ANYTHING for
timing or boost control, where-as the PMS can handle both, as well as fuel,
rev limiting, and add-ons such as nitrous. I got the PMS and originally
didn't have good luck with it because I started playing around before I
understood how it worked. I recently just reset the entire unit, and by
just selecting "Program 3" was TOTALLY AMAZED at the power the car was
producing, and this was running full rich at 17psi.
So, the VPC does NOT out-perform the PMS. It is simply a fact that the VPC
is a simple air/fuel controller that doesn't give the benefit of timing,
boost control, or anything else. IT is much more simple to install and
setup. The VPC also offers no data logging at all, which means you are
still relying on reading "spark plug electrode color" to see where your
air/fuel is.
The biggest weakness at least on a 2g with the VPC is the inability to
control timing. We don't have an external control where we can adjust
timing on the 2g. It MUST be done via the ECU/PMS.
Other issues:
On the VPC, a chip must be purchased for each set of injectors you plan to
run. The PMS can be programmed to run the 450cc or 550cc injectors right
from the handheld.
Drivability diminishes with the VPC, especially around town. I have never
heard anyone tell me that it hasn't. My car now purrs like a kitten, and
although Doug w/EFI says that there is an inherent mis-fire in the 550cc
program on the PMS, I can't detect it. I also have mine setup to use 8%
less fuel than the ECU wants for idle, which is saving me at the pump.
[Uhhhh... not really, once the car is warmed up. The ECU goes closed loop,
and your dialing does nothing - unless you dial it so far that the
feedback loop cannot compensate for it. -talon mgr]
Last, you can setup 3 discrete programs on the PMS and have them available
all at the flick of a switch. This includes changing all characteristics of
timing, boost, and fuel. Simply drive around on program 1, switch to 2 for
whipping that vette, and switch to 3 when you get to the race track.
I haven't used the VPC, but after seeing the issues, I think the PMS is far
superior in flexibility, tuneability, and drivability.
>In real world terms I find the VPC to be easier to set up and use, AND,
>so far, it outperforms the PMS on my car! Thank you Dave Buschur!
I whole-heartedly agree. The VPC is simple to install and use, and it is
probably giving your car better performance over the PMS because of how it
was tuned.
NOT TO OPEN UP ANY WOUNDS, because frankly I really don't care about this
Extreme vs. DaveB stuff, but the QUICKEST DSM is NOW running a PMS.
I am not saying the PMS makes the car faster than the VPC, only that with
the VPC or the PMS you can gain equal performance, and it is only a matter
of tuning with BOTH. Let's face it, DaveB didn't just slap parts on a car
and run 11.10's, and neither did Extreme. It took a lot of time and effort
to work out all the bugs and gain every last ounce of power.
Well, my car is down right now, as I am doing all my belts, timing, etc...
but it will be finished this week, and I am setting up the "new and
improved" boost control for the PMS. I will be posting about how it works,
how I set it up, and ALL THE GOOD AND BAD about it.
The nice thing about not being in either the "B" or "E" camps is that I can
be completely honest, and even offend both of them if necessary. Hopefully
I haven't, and if someone puts HONDA RACING stickers on my car at the
shootout, I will know who to blame.
Now my problem is finding a good 17" slick so I can quit spinning the tires
in third gear. For that matter, 1st and 2nd as well! (LONG LIVE MY FRONT
WHEEL DRIVE!) Last pass at the strip was run at 17/18psi (was still using
grainger) on pump gas, and it turned a pathetic 2.7 60ft, on a 14.6 run.
HOWEVER, I did turn 106.43mph out of it. The car did turn a dirty 13.9 @
99mph but that was shifting out of 3rd at 5000rpm because of hesitation.
Anyone know if Nitto or BFG is gonna make a 235/45/17 or a 245/45/17 drag
radial? And if so, the cost on it?
Regards,
Brett "it ain't stock no more officer" Nashlund
aka LanGuru on IRC
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 98 11:11:00 CST
From: "Hopkins John (DPD)" <[email protected]>
Subject: War story & tire review
Message-ID: <#21>
Short War I got into a skirmish with a C5 Corvette a couple weeks ago. Interesting, we
kept passing back & forth for a few miles then got side by side ~60 mph &
hammered it. I was at ~4000 rpm in 4th & amazingly pulled out on him 'till
~4700 rpm. He caught & passed me ~5000 rpm & by ~5500 was out in front
by 4-6 car lengths. There was a shift in there somewhere too. I was too
busy watching the road to really remember. I was amazed at his top end
speed. I was in the low 120 mph range, he must have been ~140's by then.
If only I could afford the 16G & 3" exhaust! Not too shabby for a mildly modded
2G. w/ boost set to 14 psi.
Tires It's really tough to find anything good & cheap in the 215/55-16 size. I
didn't know if I wanted to go up to 225/50 due to some conflicting posts
to the digest. I ended up getting 205/55-16 Firestone SZ50's from Tire
Rack. Here's what I think of them compared to the stock 215/55-16
Bridgestone RE92's...
SZ's are quieter than worn RE92's, but not as quiet as new ones. Who
cares! Get 'em warmed up & they friggin' stick like crazy! They are
better wet or dry. The ride seems a bit softer (Hmm? maybe because
there's more tread.) yet they still turn in faster and break away more
predictably than the RE's. They don't do as well in light (or heavy I
would guess) snow as the RE's. I hoped the AWD would have negated some
of this, but it didn't really. Be careful on the snow. Aside from this,
they are probably the best performing tire I've had. I hope they last
longer than the BFG Comp TA's I once tried.
Hop
'90 Talon
'95 Talon TSi AWD
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:43:08 -0500
From: "Jeff Brinkerhoff" <[email protected]>
Subject: O2 sensor wasn't it...help please
Message-ID: <#22>
Okay, now I'm really stumped. If you read yesterday's digest, I posted about
fixing my 'driving through jello' problem. It sure SEEMED fixed, but it's
not. This morning (car cold) I went to drive up the hill by my house
(usually a 3rd gear power drive at 55 mph) and I can't even climb it unless
I'm in 2nd gear. The car is very driveable as long as there is no real
boost. For instance, if I put it in third the stock boost guage pegs itself,
while I'm only showing 4-5lbs of boost! What is up with that? The car has NO
power when that happens, and actually will begin to stumble if you stay into
it. If you floor it eventually actual boost will creep up to 10 and you get
some power, but nothing like normal. When you let off the gas the car will
SURGE with power for a brief instant. The problem is much worse when the car
is cold. It's almost driveable (but gutless) once it is warm.
As I mentioned, I pulled all mods, except my MBC. I will pull that too if it
will help diagnose the problem. It got much worse after putting the lower
honeycomb back in.
I thought these were classic O2 sensor symptoms, but I guess not. Mileage is
awful - like 17mpg. The only other thing I can think of is fuel filter? I
have one, but couldn't get the old one off. I guess it's time to try again.
Any other suggestions? It has been doing this for awhile, (at least 2
months, at first barely noticeable) but has definitely gotten worse lately.
Could I actually be leaning out? If so wouldn't the problem cause BETTER gas
mileage?
I would like to hook up my Voltmeter to the o2 sensor to find out if I'm
lean or rich under accell - where do I do it? I read in the archive search
that there is a connector for just this purpose, but it didn't mention
which/where or which pins. Please someone post or RTP this info.
I also read in my searches that the O2 sensor may not be used by the ECU
under 'acceleration', as it goes into open loop operation. Does this mean
WOT, or is it some less defined point? And if this is true, then a bad O2
sensor would not have caused my problem, it must be something else... But
what? My next bet is the fuel filter, since my friend's Audi 4000 once did a
similar thing when the filter got plugged up at 100K miles...
[The ECU stops using the O2 sensor above 4500, and sometimes above 3500.
-talon mgr]
Any and all suggestions very appreciated.
Jeff
(gutless 91TSi)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 11:45:33 -0500
From: Rob O <[email protected]>
Subject: Engine swaps
Message-ID: <#23>
>I am curious about power output of different versions of the 4G63B Turbo
motor
>as it exists in various incarnations
>eg. Mitsu Galant VR4 1990 - 1992
147KW ~ 205HP
>
in Japan there was (I believe a "Cyclone" motor) 176KW ~ 240HP
>
Mitsu EVO IV
200KW ~ 280HP
>My question is this
>Is it possible to fit a 2G motor to a 1G car, if not, why, if so what
>are the gotchas.
While I cannot say off the top of my head that the 280HP EVO IV motor
will fit in a galant (or a 1G DSM) I would be more than happy to find
out for you. Just send me a complete EVO IV motor and I will attempt to
swap it into my Talon. I know it will require much sacrifice of personal
time on my part but I am willing to make that sacrifice... Oh yeah, go
ahead and send the EVO IV tranny too, I will need the torsen type front
differential to make sure the swap is sucessful... As a mater of fact,
just send me a complete EVO IV ( It must be disassembled of course, it
can't be imported complete) and I will find out what will and will not
transfer into the older cars <grin>
On a more serious note, as far as I know, the added horsepower came from
such items as biggger turbos (16G I believe), larger intercoolers (looks
more like a radiator then the heater core sized intercooler I've seen on
GVR4s), larger injectors (?) and other "tweaks" that are commonly
done by members of this list.
Check out
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/inter/products/LANCER_EVO/evo_02.html
for more info about the EVO IV and all the neat stuff that we in the
states cannot get :(
Rob O
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:12:13 -0600
From: "Michael A. Stegbauer" <[email protected]>
Subject: Talon nameplate, VC diffs, misc, spring adjusters?
Message-ID: <#24>
Gentleman,
I'm sure the Talon nameplate will return. Like the Laser tag, it's too
good to give up. Just to confuse matters, the next ChryCo sportscar will
be a Dodge Laser, a Chrysler Eagle-Talon, and maybe a Plymouth Conquest.
> I've just read about a SUBARU impreza WRX spec-R in Japan that comes
> standard with a rotary pot on the centre console that adjusts front to rear
> from 50:50 to 35:65.
I don't believe Subaru uses the VC diff. It's some type of electronically
controlled variable clutch type thingy. The potentiometer would just be an
input to the traction control computer. A VC diff is entirely mechanical.
I think the only way to change ratios would be to swap out parts.
> I suspect the ISC motor but I'm not getting a totally open coil,
> I'm geting 50-60 ohms out of two.
Don't take this the wrong way... you aren't measuring 1-3 and 4-6 are you?
The ISC has 2 center tapped coils, so if you read across both ~30 ohms
spec coils, you'll get ~60 ohms.
Have you measured it hot or just cold? It may be that when the TB gets hot
the resistance goes up enough that the ECU can't always drive the coils.
'If you don't have a bad ISC already... just wait awhile' ;-)
> muffler shop that installed my exhaust had mangled the pipe...
> Any advice on how to bend the pipe walls back to normal.
Yeah... go smack the muffler guy in the head with it.
Seriously... if it was recent, I'd approach the shop about cutting the
section out and replacing it (for free).
>The idle switch should throw a code when bad.
Just a data point... mine did not. I was looking for what turned out
to be a bad ISC when I noticed this. Gave it the ole gasoline bath,
and it's been working since (6 months or so).
[Upon re-examination, it appears that the TPS failure checking
routine will actually rarely trip a bad (open) idle switch.
It seems that it is only checking the TPS (duh) and never the
idle switch (unless it somehow got shorted). Hmmm... that
is not very good. -talon mgr]
>It can't be oxy or EGR, because once those are on, they stay on.
Not to disagree again, but...
On the way back from the Midwest shootout in Nov my check engine light
came on twice, each time about 4 minutes after an engine start. I never
checked the code, but the A/F was out, and came back at the same time the
dunny light went out. After the second time, I stopped and wiped the oil off
the oxy sensor, the hood., the valve cover, and it didn't happen again.
[Batting 0% today... hmmmmm... well, I guess I shouldn't remember all
that I read. I remember that tidbit from somewhere in the technical
manual or shop manual - those codes are supposed to set the light and
never clear the light, although the code clearly shows that the light
does indeed get cleared. -talon mgr]
I suspect that the when I stopped, the oil was dripping onto the O2,
and preventing it from having an atmospheric reading to work with.
Just my experience. 92 AWD M/T with stock ECU.
Cheers,
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 09:13:25 -0800
From: [email protected] (Mike Murphy)
Subject: springs
Message-ID: <#25>
I installed a set lowering springs (progress Technology) and I hate the
ride they produce. The ride height was lowered only 1.3 inches, but the
stiffness is unbearable for me.
[RTP]
I have always heard people talk about the ills of cutting the stock
springs, but does anyone have any intelligent opinions on the pros/cons
of doing this? All I want to do is cut them about 1.3 inches so the car
will look the same as with the aftermarket ones.
Mike Murphy
97 GS-T Spyder
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 12:12:41 -0500
Subject: O2 sensor - one more thing
Message-ID: <#26>
Oh, I forgot - in addition to my last post about the O2 sensor and my lack
of drivability - about a week ago the Check Engine light came on for about 5
seconds. Then went out. I never got a chance to check the code. I did pull
the MPI fuse while I was working under the hood - does that clear the ECU?
If not, how do I check for codes? [RTP] if this has been covered a zillion
times.
[The code is gone and unrecoverable. -talon mgr]
ThanksJeff
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 00:59:24 -0600
From: Howard Draper <[email protected]>
Subject: GVR4 stumble fixed
Message-ID: <#27>
Hi all, I finally fixed that damn random and intermittent 2-cylinder
stumble that has plagued my Galant VR4 for the past year. Here's the
symptoms, every once in a while the engine would stumble very faintly at
part throttle about 2800-3000RPM. Then sometimes the check engine light
would come on, and maybe stay lit or disappear shortly after. This was
when it would spit out 6 error codes. Occasionally, the motor would
start running on 2 cylinders (you can imagine how much it sucks), and
revving it over 4000RPM would sometimes fix it. Then the problem
advanced to the point where the check engine light was constantly lit,
the engine would start and run fine when cold, but immediate restarts
after driving resulted in a brief low idle and stall 2 seconds later.
If I let the car cool for at least 15 mins, sometimes more, it would
start ok, but the check engine light would soon come back on.
I pulled the error codes and this is what I got: O2 sensor, MAS, and
TDC sensor. I swapped the MAS for another VR4 unit (thanks Ron), and
nothing changed. The A/F gauge indicates that the O2 sensor was
reacting quickly and cycling normally. Everyone told me that the
TDC/cam sensor wouldn't just be flaky, and that the car wouldn't start
at all if it was messed up. Well, I swapped the cam sensor out with
another one and now the car is fine! Actually, I dissected and
reassembled mine before sticking it in the other car, and it looks
pretty neat inside. Is there any interest in VFAQ pics of the TDC/cam
sensor innards?
The inside of my sensor cover had a little puddle looking mark, like
corrosion/deposits due to water. However, the cover was upside down on
my car, and the water spot was on the top of the sensor. So I think
perhaps the previous owner got water in it, the dealer mechanics popped
the cover off to get it out, and then they put it on upside down. The
mistu logo was flipped too.
SATAN wants about $500 for that damn sensor, so I ended up buying a
black '91 NT 2.0 5-spd Talon (with 92 tranny :-) for $700, and swapping
the sensor with the one from the Galant. Yes, the talon runs ok, but
the paint reaaaally sucks. The part numbers for the cam sensors are the
same, but that's because they're both '91 cars. Heh, I guess if I blow
up the tranny in the galant I could maybe use the FWD talon trans as a
spare. Then there would have to be a FWD Galant category on the
timeslips page, and I would be number one no matter how slow I go! Ha
ha!
So, if anyone has a similar unsolvable stumbling problem, try borrowing
a cam sensor from someone and see if it helps. The work is very easy,
it's like adjusting the timing, except you take the nuts off along with
the sensor. Try to keep the RTV-like seal on the sensor intact, since
it mates with the valve cover to prevent oil leakage.
later,
howard draper
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 12:45:30 EST
Subject: 1g, paint code info
Message-ID: <#28>
I have a '91 dark blue and grey Talon. I'm trying to find touch-up
paint to fix some rock chips, but I can't read the paint code.
If someone could get the paint code for this setup and email it
to me that would be great.
Also, I am looking for a used driver's side door handle and gray
leather seat covers.
Gary Gill
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 12:50:33 -0500
From: Brian Beal <[email protected]>
Subject: Re:[1g,t] More timing belt saga...
Message-ID: <#29>
Allen, I hate to tell you this but it sounds all too familiar. it sounds
like you are going to have to swap heads with your 92 if it will fit or get
the 94 head to a machine shop and get the valves replaced. I just had this
done to my 91NA Talon. The valves should cost around $10- $10.50 each. I
had to have all eight intake valves replaced. Sorry to give you the bad news.
[RTP]
Is there anybody on the list that lives or goes to school in the Clemson/
Greenville/ Spartanburg/ Anderson S.C. area?
Brian Beal
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 13:08:25 EST
Subject: RE:FW: 1990 Eagle Talon shimmy - Help
Message-ID: <#31>
>total spent - about $2,000
>the car still shakes at 60-65 mph. ( both the steering wheel and the
>seat shake )
I'm also in this same boat. Ever since I bought my car last year I get a
vibration between 60-80 mph, That comes and goes. I put on four new tires and
have tried balacing and rotating them. I also tried changing a CV axle and a
tie rod ends.
But whats interesting to me is that 3 of the 5 AWD DSMS that I test drove
before before buying my car also had this same shimmy. Any thoughts that
maybe
a bad carrier bearing could cause wheel shimmy?
Mario
Porsche Killer
90 Talon AWD 112k
-----------------------------Date:
Tue, 6 Jan 1998 12:17:11 +0000
From: "Dan Bruski - Applications Engineer/Physicist" <[email protected]>
Subject: fuel cut type bucking
Message-ID: <#32>
Yesterday I posed about stuttering and jerking at WOT. Todd suggested I read
http://www.tmo.com/faq/diagport/970929.htm
I did, very interresting. "Unfortunately" I don't have heavy intake or
exhaust mods that could cause this, only removed snorkel, K&N. So I don't
think
I'm taking in too much air. At that site, other things were mentioned that
could cause this violent jerking:
*****
Here are possible reasons for fuel-cut like hesitation. Keep in mind that
none of these involve the ECU directly.
1.Lack of spark. Under high boost conditions, if the spark is weak due to
dirty plugs, it can be completely blown out. If the spark plug wires are
old, the insulation might be breaking down, letting the spark arc to the
engine instead of firing in the cylinder.
2.Lack of fuel. Fuel filter or fuel injectors could be clogged. The fuel pump
might not have enough output to handle your fuel load. Sometimes, simply
running an extra heavy gauge wire to the fuel pump can overcome voltage
drops that occur when the pump is drawing a lot of current.
*****
I have relatively new plugs (split fire...I know, I know, I bought them
before I read the digest) and NGK 8mm wires. None older than 10k miles.
How can I clean the injectors? Is that gas tank additive stuff recommended?
Dan Bruski
92 Laser RS T
-----------------------------Date:
Tue, 6 Jan 1998 12:10:22 -0600
Subject: Stock Boost, BOV's (2G,T)
Message-ID: <#33>
Just a quick question on stock boost levels.
I have a 97 GST with a K&N FIPK, upper intercooler pipe, removed
solenoid restrictor, removed BOV dump tube, and stock exhaust.
I also have a Greddy boost guage tapped into the ?fuel pump line
(as instructed in the faq). My question is this... With the stock
BOV the guage was showing 14 lbs boost (.95 bar). I thought that
this was kinda high with the limited mods, but that's what it says.
Anyway, hearing that the stock BOV leaks, I bought a pre-95 BOV
and an adapter from DaveB and installed them. Still I get the same
boost but now an annoying whistle sound even at vaccuum/low boost.
Is the pre-95 BOV leaking too? Am I supposed to get 14 pounds of
boost with the stock BOV? Is the stock exhaust limiting both BOV
and my guage is reading wrong? I am planning on getting an RS*R
2.75 cat-back soon, but still don't think that will solve the question.
Alot of people here have said that the stock BOV leaks at around
11 psi. Many suggest that the max boost on pump gas without a
fuelpump is 15 psi. If the exhaust is the limiting factor and I get
the $$$$ exhaust, can I only increase the boost by 1 psi safely?
Any ideas? Tom
the boost by 1 psi.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 10:46:26 -0800
From: Jack <[email protected]>
Subject: "big mouth bumper"
Message-ID: <#34>
Some one posted awhile ago about a "big mouth" (for a front mount
intercooler) front bumper for 1G. Is this product available yet and
where can I get it?
Jack
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:38:00 -0800
From: [email protected] (Khanh Dinh)
Subject: RE: Walbro 2G fuel pump noise/ Buschur "Beetle" downpipe
Message-ID: <#35>
As quoted from Tom Stangl:
>Noise - these pumps ARE louder than stock. The ND pump is
>
louder, and has a high pitch whine to it. The Walbro
>
pumps are louder, but have a lower pitched "roar" to
>
them. Some peoples' installs have been MUCH louder
>
than stock, but we did an install on a 2G FWD, and it
>
was NO louder than stock, you couldn't hear it at all
>
at idle with the radio off, so it seems to vary from
>
car to car.
That Was my car that We, um...er, Tom and Tory (thanks guys) did the install
on. The fuel pump noise was barely noticeable at first, but after the install
while driving home, I was more in tune w/ the sound of the pump. It is
definitely noticeable when the car is idling w/ the windows up and the radio
off. nothing loud or obnoxious, but noticaeable by most automotively inclined
people. There is a definite low pitched whine outside of the car too. not too
loud though. Nothing like Tom's "mustang pump" which is easily twice as loud
both inside and outside of the car.
The car also took alot longer to start too. The car cranked over twice as long
before it would fire up until one day I almost ran the tank empty. I usually
fill up at 340mi a tank or less except for this one morning when I woulda been
late to work if I stopped to fill up. 340mi is pretty empty according to the
fuel gauge. Well, this particular morning, I had 320mi on this tankful and had
to drive 25mi to get to work. I had to drive the last 3 miles w/ the fuel
light on, so I'm assuming the tank was fairly empty (I think 13.5gal is the
most I've put into the tank). Ever since then, the car cranks up just like it
did w/ the stock pump, which averaged 2 seconds.
Some people have noticed a VW Bug sound to their exhaust after installing the
Buschur dp. This, I believe is due to the thin gauge of the pipe. I installed
an Archer dp on my car which made no change to the sound of my car. The
Archer
dp uses heavier gauge tubing though. The Archer 2G FWD dp easily out ways
the
Buschur AWD dp by 1-2 lbs... I used to have a toyota truck where I replaced
the
exhaust manifold w/a header which used thin gauge tubing. It made "tingy"
sounds too.
Khanh Dinh
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 11:51:54 -0800
Subject: War Stories.
Message-ID: <#36>
Hey, what's with the Porsche killer stuff :)
Mario wrote:
>I was driving around Tampa today bumming cause the Bucs lost and I didn't
get
>to go to the Moroso Drag Wars (Thanks Steve), when I see a later model
Porsche
>944 about to make a left turn down the street I'm about turn onto. I'm not
>sure but those either came with a Turbo 4 or a 200hp NA 4cyl. My first
The 944's came with various different engines:
2.5L
2.7L
3.0L
2.5L
2.5L
4-cylinder
4-cylinder
4 cylinder
4-cylinder
4-cylinder
SOHC ~150hp
DOHC ~190hp
DOHC ~208hp
Turbo SOHC ~217hp
Turbo SOHC ~247hp
As you can see, there are quite a few, some that can't touch even a stock
Talon, let alone a modified one. A bone stock 217hp 944T will pull 0-60
in 6 seconds and a 1/4 mile in 15.0 @ 96mph. 944T's are notoriously hard
to launch, so look at the MPH for top end power. You need at least a boost
controller on a DSM to match that. The 247hp version has a 0-60 of 5.5
seconds and a 1/4 mile of 14.9 @ 100mph, once again, hard to launch, but
look at the MPH. My 944T is the 247hp version with the boost turned up
from 11.5psi to 14.5psi. It turned a 13.9 @ 103.5mph.
When Paul had all of my parts on his Talon from my old Talon (12.7 @ 107mph),
we found that the in-gear acceleration with pump gas was the same between
my 944T and the Talon. Off the line, there was no point for me to even
try. Hey, I've been in the other driver's seat and know what an AWD launch
feels like :)
Whether it was the gearing that helps the 944T at speed or if it is the
larger displacement engine with the factory large turbo, I don't know.
My 944T doesn't produce a whole lot of power, ~260hp and ~270ft-lbs
at the wheels on a Dynojet, but it does fly. It goes 10km/h faster down
the local track's straight than my Talon did.
>but I came back to reality since most Porsche drivers drive them
>only for the name and rarely push Weissach's and Zuffenhausen's finest
engines
>to redline.
You should come down to Vancouver where almost every 944 owner around
here
races their cars. I see to it that if they buy the car, they race it too.
My friend, it's the sound above 4500rpm that made Porsche famous, not
below :)
>before having to stomp on the binders to avoid pulling a "Hank" and hitting
>the Mustang in the lane ahead of me.
Did I miss something, did Hank hit something again? Wasn't it a dog or
a horse or something last time?
[Mustang = horse. -talon mgr]
>nice condos. I couldn't help but to be a tad envious. But thats okay, he might
>have the nice house and the 944, but I have the AWD,DSM Porche Killer.
If it's a NA model, he likely lives in a smaller house than you, they are
fairly cheap to buy, expensive to run, but cheap to buy.
BTW - Porsha is spelled "Porsche"
Farzaan.
92 Talon FWD - crashed
94 Talon AWD - burned
92 Talon AWD - awesome little car, sold to rally team in Canada
89 944T - my new red rocket
CRG/Yamaha - my new racing kart
------------------------------
From bouncer Wed Jan 7 19:07:19 1998
for talon-digest-approved on Wed, 7 Jan 1998 19:07:19 -0800
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
[I will be in Vegas for the Consumer Electronics Show these next
couple days, so coverage might be spotty. -talon mgr]
Talon Digest for Wednesday, January 7, 1998
Today's Topics:
1) Andrew Bienhaus
Boost Pressure, Cell Phone Mount Solution on 2G
2) Jesse Hustad
Battery connections, Stereo hookup, Adam Wang
3) Andrew Bienhaus
Re: '98 Factory Alarm (was '98 GSX Price)
4) Amir Shaikh
Busted engine to exhaust manifold bolt
5) mciveron
2g BOV and DIS air filter kit for sale
6) Warren C Daniel
Club DSM license plate holder
7) Sean
HID info
8) Shift Test Engr. Bld Wanted: 1G Parts
9) James P Gonzales
Re: Kill the Talon
10) Michael
Amsoil opinion
11) Brett
re: PMS vs. VPC (fuel at idle)
12)
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
42)
43)
44)
45)
46)
47)
48)
49)
50)
51)
52)
Farzaan Kassam
Brake painting.
Venger
Kill/Save Talon, Eagle marketing
Brett.Dwyer
3rd Generation Eclipse???
Farzaan Kassam
Washington/B.C. race meet.
paul
Group Purchase on 16G's; 2G big brakes; Moroso tid
Mike K
Air Filter Problems...
Mac Crossett
Re: shocks again?
Robert Arrowood
HID Lights
DaneDray
Studder on my 91 gsx.
Eric
[1G,T] Tran$fer ca$e, vi$cou$ coupling
jim craig
detriot autoshow meet!
beavis
Mushy response continues
Jeff Fritz
[ALL] Warranty work (LONG)
Edward Puskaric
Re: Kill the Talon
vandeburg
Alternator Going Out?
Shindley
VPC > PMS
Dave Campbell
New Gauge Faces and NT Mileage
Edward Puskaric
Re: Buschur "Beetle" downpipe
Lorrin Barth
damper, tbelt, & snow
utensil
Canada thoughts, Bright Lights
David Planton
talon/eclipse ads
Chad Gray
Oil cooler was loose/Leak Down testor
ThomasS8
4 bolt upgrade question
Cameron Rittich
Cut springs
Andrew Bienhaus
Re: Synthetic oil...
Andrew Bienhaus
Re: New Car Pricing
sgg_temp
[ALL] Mitsubishi SST Concept/Detroit Autoshow
pdevans
Shocks/Evo IV swap/VCs
Al Zieba
Re: [3g] Detroit Autoshow
Joseph Cernada
3G pictures!?
Keith Casey
Brake Upgrade and Sighting
Tome
Re: Talon, Laser, Eclipse
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Brake Grease
Tom Stangl
Drive with spark plug out?
nkh
Re: 3rd Gear Performance disappointment
Osterman, Kirk B
Autoshow Concept car - (3G?)
Fedja Jeleskovic
Bild your own O2 sensor
TSi91Turbo
checked ecu, alarm install info needed
BLCF1
HELP-----problems with my engine light---okazakik
O2 sensor connector
guillermo_polo
Race in Tucson Arizona
53) Benny Chin-O10342 Re: Combat Kit
54) Bryan J. McGlade
milage and tank fill times.
55) Scott Guth
Misc. Questions
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:24:39 -0500
From: "Andrew Bienhaus" <[email protected]>
Subject: Boost Pressure, Cell Phone Mount Solution on 2G
Message-ID: <#1>
Boost Pressure:
Ok, 1997 TSi AWD, and I'm about to put in a manual boost controller.
So, I started reading back a bit to see what pressures people are reporting,
and I'm now a little confused.
People talk about 7psi and 10psi, etc, yet my VDO is reading peaks of
16.5-17psi, with a slow fade down to about 10psi as the RPMs climb. The car
is almost stock...
So, question is, when people talk about their boost psi, are they referring
to PSI a specific RPM in a specific GEAR? If so, what is the magic number,
so I can compare apples to apples. The manual boost controller instructions
say not to take the boost beyond 17psi, without exhaust, fuel pump etc, but
I'm already almost reading that as a peak in stock form...
Cell Phone Mount:
Anyone who has a bag phone, or a car mounted one (handsets are usually
identical for both), has probably been searching for a good place to mount
the hang-up cup in their beautiful car. I have found the closest thing to a
perfect mounting bracket for the second gen cars. (they may indeed also
make a 1G version too, but I have a 97 so I can't comment)
It's a company called "Pro-Fit", from Vancouver, BC. My local cell phone
guys ordered it in for me, and it was $32 Canadian. It bolts to the two
bolts on the upper right corner of the stock radio, and then comes out
between the front fascia and the grey side trim next to the radio. The
phone cup bolts to that, and then the phone will hang down from it, nicely
clearing the handbrake, the view of the radio, and the passenger's leg.
I was very pessimistic when I ordered it, but they assured me that I could
return it if I was not happy. It's just about the best possible fit that
one could expect. :) The worst thing I had to do, was snip a tiny corner of
plastic under the fascia, to get it to sit just right.
Two thumbs up. :)
Andrew
97 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 14:02:48 -0700 (MST)
From: Jesse Hustad <[email protected]>
Subject: Battery connections, Stereo hookup, Adam Wang
Message-ID: <#2>
I just got back from Christmas break after about three weeks. I stored my
car outside for the whole three weeks. In just that short of time my
positive battery terminal had corroded enough to cause a bad connection.
The symptoms were an occasional pop during idle, sometimes it would
start, sometimes not, and other strange electrical problems. So I bought
some of those felt things to go on the posts, a terminal wire brush,
and a terminal cover. After cleaning up everything and installing
the new stuff the car seems to run and start a lot better. Another thing
that I noticed was that one of the ground wires ( the one going into the
harness) was disconnected. I think I forgot to reattach it right before I
left before vacation.
I am installing an aftermarket stereo, either a Sony CDX-C460 or a Sony
Mobile ES CDX-C560. My stereo has six speakers from the factory but I
replaced the fronts with 5 1/4" Boston Acoustics and the rears with 6x9"
Alpines. The 4T dash speakers are stock. I bought a harness from
Crutchfield and I was curious as to how I am supposed to connect six
speakers to four channels. If I run the six front channels won't that
drop it down to a two ohm load? One person told me to just disconnect the
dash speakers until I get an amp and then I can run six channels while
another told me to try it out with all the speakers connected. I don't
want to blow up my new deck just trying something out. I don't think that
the stock deck could take a two ohm load so the factory must have done
something. Maybe a couple of resistors in the wiring or the factory front
speakers are 8ohm?
I just read Doug Derby's post about Adam Wang. A friend of mine almost
got ripped off by him on a set of perfect Sparco NTs for $1700. We
specified a certified check, UPS screwed up and accepted a check that
looked like something a third grader doctored up. Luckily for my friend
he got his money because UPS screwed up. Apparently investigators from
UPS went to his house in Saratoga, Ca. to collect and they got no answer.
I guess he lives in a very nice house so it looks like he can afford the
stuff he buys but he just doesn't want to pay for it. If anyone named
Adam Wang, Derek Wang, (I don't know all of his alias's)from Saratoga
tries to buy anything from you DON'T FALL FOR IT! I don't want to see any
more digest members or trustworthy shops being ripped off by him!
Thanks,
Jess
90GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:11:08 -0500
Subject: Re: '98 Factory Alarm (was '98 GSX Price)
Message-ID: <#3>
:Unless it was changed in '97 or '98, the 2G Talon does not have an
:ignition disabler. As a quick test, open your windows, get out of the
:car, lock the door, going through the open window, unlock the door. At
:this point, your horn should be going off. Get in the car, start the
:car, drive away with the horns still going.
:This works in my '96 Talon TSI AWD, does it work differently in a '97 or
:'98? If so, maybe someone with the tech manual can tell us if it's a
:simple modification to add.
Sorry it's been so long since this was posted, but I'm just now catching up.
:)
My 97 TSi AWD was sold to me, as having a starter cut-out, hooked into the
alarm. Now, not that I believe all car sales people, but I looked in the
manual last night and low and behold, in the starter circuit, there in black
and white, is an alarm cut-out relay, tied into the starter circuit.
I live in a nice neighbourhood, or else I would try what you suggest about
driving away with the horn blaring. :)
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:13:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Amir Shaikh <[email protected]>
Subject: Busted engine to exhaust manifold bolt
Message-ID: <#4>
Hello fellow DSMers,
I really enjoy reading this list. Probably one of the most interesting
things in my day. That either means the list is exceptional and/or that I
have no life 8).
My 90 TSI Talon is sitting in storage for the winter which has given me the
chance to add the basic things to it. I just got around to doing a cheap
A/F mixture mod, added a voltmeter, and did the knock sensor mod.
Well since I'm not driving the car, I decided to poke around the engine bay
to check things out. I've read about broken exhaust manifold to turbo
bolts, so I decided to check it out. I removed the heat shield on the turbo
and the bolts seemed okay. However, the leftmost bottom bolt attaching the
exhaust manifold to the engine did not have a nut and actually was broken.
The bolt isn't broken up to the base but there is not nearly enough bolt
left to put a nut on.
[RTP]
Two questions:
1) Am I losing performance?
2) Should/Could I fix it?
later,
Amir
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 15:27:56 -0600
From: mciveron <[email protected]>
Subject: 2g BOV and DIS air filter kit for sale
Message-ID: <#5>
The following is for sale
1 pre95 BOV in excellent condition $80
1 DIS(Extreme air filter kit) $70 in great shape
I am selling because on the 14 of Jan. I have a arbitration hearing
with Chrysler and hopefully they buy the damn car back. The filter and
BOV make a big difference, I hate driving without them on my car.
Thanks
Chad
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:22:09 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Club DSM license plate holder
Message-ID: <#6>
Hey!
Where can I get one of those license plate holders?
check out:
http://rob.com/dsm/plate.jpg
Warren
96 GS-T AT
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 18:15:22 -0500
Subject: HID info
Message-ID: <#7>
Here are some bits and pieces, on the HID lighting system, that I
received from Digest member. Thanks alot to everyone who responded to
my post!
The bulbs are more expensive to begin with, and another factor is that
those lighting systems use much higher voltage (around 80V) as opposed
to the normal 12V system that most vehicles use. So they require very
sophiscated and very expensive power supplies to maintain a steady input
voltage for those xenon bulbs. Very expensive stuff that non-luxury
cars cannot justify in cost.
I remember each headlight assembly for the Lincoln Mark VIII is around
$700. So $700 x 2 = $1400 right there. Not sure if that even includes
the special electronics/power supply.
Maybe in the future they would offer aftermarket lighting for our DSM's.
http://www.sylvania.com/auto/arcspecs.htm
Piaa makes aftermarket HID driving lights.
Thanks again,
Sean'91TalonTSi/AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 98 13:19:20 HST
From: "Shift Test Engr. Bldg. 9 3rd flr. (808) 471-8976"
<[email protected]>
Subject: Wanted: 1G Parts
Message-ID: <#8>
I'm looking for a good deal on 1G parts to replace some flow restricting
2G hardware: 1) throttle body, and 2) intake manifold. Please respond to
[email protected].
Also would like some info: Are the above pieces a direct boltup to a 2G?
If not, is it just minor drilling/tapping that's required to adapt it, or
is there more to it than that?
Thanks,
Animal - '98 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 17:55:33 -0600
Message-ID: <#9>
> People pay a grand more for the "same" car because the Eclipse's
> always seem to have a higher resale and trade-in value, as well as
> having more standard items where they are options in the Talon.
It's all about brand name recognition. Further, Mitsubishi cars are
considered "imports" even though we know they're made right on the same
line as the Talon. A lot of people think "import" means "good". That's
true, sometimes. I can think of a lot of imported cars I wouldn't want
to drive, let alone own. As for standard options and whatnot, that's
not a very good argument - since you can load up the talon just as
easily, and save 2 grand, what's the purpose of charging more money just
because you made two or three line items into the stock package?
> Not to mention that Mitsubishi knows where the spoiler is supposed
> to go, at least on the 2G cars.
I'm no aero engineer, but my "gut instinct" tells me that the placement
of the 2G Talon's spoiler looks like it does a better job of "spoiling"
the air than the 2G Eclipse's wing, which appears to be entirely
cosemetic. Not that the Talon's spoiler probably gives much effect
either.
Any engineers out there care to comment?
Jim '96 AWD Talon
-----------------------------Date:
Tue, 06 Jan 1998 19:03:54 -0500
Subject: Amsoil opinion
Message-ID: <#10>
>Wow! These guys are popping up all over the place! Is Amsoil the
>new Amway for the new millenium?
Heh heh, Actually Amsoil has been around since the 70s. They were the
first to offer synthetics for the automobile. My father was a dealer
then until the 80s. Now for a few opinions of my own since I just
converted my car over to all Amsoil:
I do like the Series 2000 gear lube I put in the tranny. I give this
one definate thumbs up. Before I had Redline MTL and it seemed
crunchy. Now that my car is running again for the past week, I've been
able to feel the difference with the Amsoil. It feels like there is
syrup or honey that lets the car shift into gear smoother. The only
crunching I feel now comes from the linkages. The actual sliding into
gear is smooth. I can't compare it to BG, but someone I spoke to just
switched to BG after having used Amsoil in the past and going to stock
fluid. He finds the BG to be even more notchy than the stock fluid he
had and is thining of going back to the Amsoil.
I drained my power steering fluid and refilled with the Amsoil ATF.
Since I've been driving my g/f's Escort the last few months, my car
seems very responsive. I'm not 100% sure if that's due to the new fluid
or just a better steering system than the Escort, but the slightest
movement to the wheel seems to give a response.
Other fluids I changed to was the Asmoil biodegradable coolant (car
hasn't overheated yet) and upgraded in oil to the Series 2000 0w-30. No
problems so far and the shop that worked on my car liked all the fluids,
Now where can I get that Amsoil gas I just read about? :-)
Mike
91 Laser RS-T (back on the road)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 16:10:57 -0800
Subject: re: PMS vs. VPC (fuel at idle)
Message-ID: <#11>
>>I also have mine setup to use 8%
>>less fuel than the ECU wants for idle, which is saving me at the pump.
>Uhhhh... not really, once the car is warmed up. The ECU goes closed loop,
>and your dialing does nothing - unless you dial it so far that the
>feedback loop cannot compensate for it.
I can easily watch the A/F guage at idle and see it drop from running
between medium and rich, down to full lean. I have actually dropped the
fuel at idle down far enough to kill the motor, even after fully warmed up.
You cannot control timing below 2000rpm with the PMS, but you can select the
fuel mixture.
Regards,
Brett
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 16:06:51 -0800
Subject: Brake painting.
Message-ID: <#12>
>I want to paint the brakes(calipers, etc) on my 95 TSi in preperation
>for possible adding larger, open spoked rims. What kind of paint should
>I use?
I don't usually post to the Talon list anymore since I don't own one
anymore, but when I read the above and the few other emails go
unanswered, I had to jump in, so please forgive me.
Use only VERY HIGH HEAT paint for your calipers. I used 550F VHT. It
looked really nice, worked great, UNTIL, I took the car to the track.
On the 3rd or 4th lap, my brake calipers caught fire. It was pretty
ugly. I had my pit guys scraping the melting paint off with rocks!
After that, I tried the VHT super high temp, I think it's 1500F. It
doesn't go on well and scraped off quickly from rocks, etc. The
only solution was to use black bar-b-q paint. It doesn't look as cool
as red, but it worked.
I'm not sure what Porsche uses, but my factory black Brembos look fine
after a track day, although the paint has peeled near the bleed nipples.
Farzaan.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 18:14:17 -0600
From: "Venger" <[email protected]>
Subject: Kill/Save Talon, Eagle marketing
Message-ID: <#13>
I think people forget the early ads Eagle ran in support of the Talon. They
were quite good, and in fact, are what first caused me to notice the Talon.
There were numerous TV and print ads in 90 and 91. Go check out some old
R&T
or C&D mags. Personally, I remember the one that had a guy who stated that
when he was in high school, everyone called him "pinhead".
The announcer asked what happened when he showed up at the reunion with
his
turbocharged AWD Talon.
The guy said people told him "Nice car, pinhead". Followed by some catchy
music. Except in print...
Anyways, there was marketing. And frankly, the Eagle looked much nicer in full
trim than the Eclipse in the 1st generation, although this reversed now.
Mitsubishi had a better basic warranty, but a higher price and initially a
lower resale value (haven't checked this lately). What killed the Eagle Talon
was the lack of a low price intro. This is from Eagle themselves. They finally
introduced the DL model in like 95 or so, after having been outsold by
Mitsubishi and Plymouth due to the availability of the 1.8L model (yuck!). Too
late.
The other problem with Eagle was a lack of a decent companion car. The Eagle
Summit was a decent but unremarkable car, that generated precisely 0
excitement with the car buying public. The Eagle Premier was a nice concept
but had horrendous reliability problems. The other DSM lines had other models
to support the name as well as draw customers (Dad has to do something while
Mom checks out thost Grand Voyager's...maybe he'll check out this Laser...).
Anyways, forget saving the Talon, at least in it's current ugly edition. Buy a
1st gen and garage it...it's likely the last nice Eagle Talon you'll find.
Venger
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 19:41:55 -0500
Subject: 3rd Generation Eclipse???
Message-ID: <#14>
I found on Microsoft's Carpoint web page a place about new concept cars
at the Detroit autoshow. They have pictures of a Mitsubishi Concept car
called the SST. Is this the famous 3rd gen?
http://carpoint.msn.com/Autoshow98/Surround
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 16:43:06 -0800
Subject: Washington/B.C. race meet.
Message-ID: <#15>
Howdy,
I sent this to the NW-DSM list, but some WA members may not be on that list,
so here it is:
How does March sound for the Washington/B.C. auto-x event for 944 and DSM
owners?
This event has become a tradition as it is now going into its 3rd year.
This year, I'm expecting quite a few participants. Some of the DSM crowd
have spent several thousands to be 1st in this little get-together, and
I expect nothing less this year.
The event was originally a shootout between myself, Paul and Roger Hanson
of Boeing, all who owned Talons. The first year, he beat me and Paul, last
year I beat him and Paul with my 944T. Last year, we had a turnout of about
10 cars, 5 944T's and five DSM's.
I already have the following people confirmed for coming:
Driver
Car
Location
Farzaan Kassam
89 944T
B.C.
Paul Buchmann
89 944T
B.C.
Mark Buchmann
87 944T
B.C.
Darren Foo
89 944T
B.C.
Lou Grouzolier
89 944T
B.C.
Tim Stark
88 944TS
B.C.
Tom Pultz
90 944S2
WA
Tom's son hopefully 89 944T
WA
Derek Wang
95 Talon AWD WA
Gregory Carlson
94 Talon AWD WA
James Lawler
90 Talon AWD B.C. (previous Canadian National champ)
That's all I have right now. Tom and his son have not confirmed, but I am
going to set the dates around his son's schedule because I want him to bring
the beast out :) I have not confirmed the dates with Wes yet, but I'm
sure he'll make the treck down.
The format is going to be simple, you have to own either a DSM or a 944.
You don't have to be a member of the list. We will run with the Porsche
club or the WWSCC, both which will likely let us run with them. You are
likely to get 3-5 runs, of which the first 3 count towards the trophies.
The race site is going to be Bremerton, anything smaller is no fun for the
turbos. This site allows us to equalize a bit with the S2's and other NA
models. Hopefully, Bill Buetow doesn't read this email or he'll be #1 for
sure :)
Once I know how many people we have, I'm going to get enough trophies or
other prizes so that no one goes home empty. I've always wanted to run
an auto-x like that, but can't afford it for 80+ people. With 10-20, we
can afford it.
All money paid for entry will go the hosting club, I will not be making any
money from this, nor do I want to. We are using the club's facility, we
are using the club's insurance and they are being gracious enough to let us
run alongside their event. The least we can do is give them the money.
If you are interested in attending, let me know. After the event, I will
whip up a little 4 page newsletter and mail it to all participants with
pictures and all for a good keepsake of the event.
If the event goes well, I'll start planning for a track day with the same
crowd at Spokane, an ultra-high speed track that is relatively inexpensive
to rent out thanks to a good friend in that area.
Farzaan.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 20:10:37 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Group Purchase on 16G's; 2G big brakes; Moroso tidbits
Message-ID: <#16>
For those who haven't read, I'm putting together a 16G purchase for $565 a
piece. I need 17 total interested parties. I have 7. The turbo is from
mitsubishi and is neither ported or clipped. If you have a 1G,
installation is very easy. If you have a 2G, you will need a new oil feed
line, a new oil return line, and miscellaneous bolts and nuts. You can
purchase all of this stuff from the dealer however: just tell them you
have a 1G 5 speed and need parts.
I posted a query about reasonably priced 2G big brake kits some time ago
and I'll post my findings. 2G big brake kits are just now starting to
come alive. When I say big brakes, I don't mean AWD brakes, I mean 13"
rotors (slotted or drilled, your choice) and 2 piston calipers (4 pots if
you have the means). That's what I wanted for my FWD. I called a few
places and ended up talking to Mike at DSS. He told me about a kit using
Mustang Cobra (or possibly C4 corvette) calipers (2 piston) and 13"
rotors, stainless lines which are NOT D.O.T. approved, pads, and possibly
some brake fluid, all for ~ $850. That is so much better than $3500.
I've decided to save and buy other things first (lower IC pipe, walbro
pump, etc) but I will probably end up buying the big brakes from DSS. My
philosophy in modding my car is handle, brake, and finally add power (the
16G). My secret dream is a road course ready car on the street.
The import drags in West Palm Beach Florida on the 5th was truly exciting.
It was worth it just to see all the DSM's and also to watch Vinny Ten run
that 10.25. I saw BIG LEN (remember this guy in Sport Compact Car a while
ago with that red 1G?) run an 11.80 @ 120 mph. Personally I think that's
damn fast for a car with street tires, although sadly he had taken out
everything inside but the driver's seat and the dash. Also, it was great
to see all the Club DSM members there and I think it was Jason (93 laser
AWD) did very well in the bracket races. Also, I saw a DSM with the
tubular exhaust manifold, do these things crack more easily than the
factory manifold? Do they need to be properly supported to avoid damage?
Non DSM content:
I drove my friend's 94 tt supra with an air filter and a profec set to 18
psi. I must say I have never driven a car with so much high rpm pull.
The torque after the second turbo provides boost (~4700 rpm) is so
pronounced, it masks the healthy torque of the primary turbo (before ~4700
rpm) and it seems like massive turbo lag. Well, my friend was giving
someone a ride in the car when the primary turbo blew. I had warned him
about the ills of the Profec A and the twin sequential turbo Supra, but I
still felt bad because I'm the one who installed it. He's under warranty
so he's home free, but I suspect he'll take my advice and buy a Profec B.
Paul Estevez
95 GS (da hell kinna' car is zis anyway boy?) T
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 17:09:09 -0800
From: Mike K <[email protected]>
Subject: Air Filter Problems...
Message-ID: <#17>
[RTP]
I have a serious problem whenever I remove my air filter can and leave the
K&N attached. The damn idle gets so rough that the check engine light
blinks, and the car bounces/jolts. Obviously, this only happens at
stoplights. It's so bad now, that I simply slow WAY down before a red, and
coast until it turns green. I've tried to raise my idle, but that did
nothing. What I need is for all of the DSM gurus out there to tell me how
to fix this (Short of putting the can back on)
Thanks
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 19:29:36 -0600
From: "Mac Crossett" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: shocks again?
Message-ID: <#18>
Ok, first, gas shocks are still hydraulic, they're just charged
with nitrogen under pressure, hence the full name, gas-charged
shocks. The gas keeps the hydraulic fluid from foaming under hard
use. Gas shocks should be pushed back out the the gas
pressure...in fact, I couldn't really push my GABs in. The stock
ones are not gas-charged and will remain collapsed. The stock
ones will actually compress under gravity if you hold them
upright.
If you are going to lower the car, I would certainly recomend
putting on aftermarket shocks. I made that mistake. The car is
underdamped, so it bounces on the springs, and you'll slap every
driveway you try to enter with the airdam. Handling isn't really
improved much, either.
Mac Crossett
'96 Eagle Talon TSi AWD #49ESP
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 19:57:25 -0600
Subject: HID Lights
Message-ID: <#19>
>Apparently these special lights are quite costly do
>to the type of compressed gas used to achieve the BRIGHT WHITE LIGHT (I
>have no idea what the gas is). But hey there supposed to last forever.
Until you get hit. And people wonder why insurance rates are so high.
Can you imagine getting "bumped" and having to replace maybe your
bumper covering for $300 and then replacing ONE headlight for $1500.
That's why you only see these lights on the $40k and up cars. KC does
have these lights in a fog light setup though. I can't remember
exactly what the price was but it was close to $1000, for driving
lights!
Robert Arrowood
1990 Talon Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 21:19:29 -0500
From: DaneDray <[email protected]>
Subject: Studder on my 91 gsx.
Message-ID: <#20>
This is my first post on the digest, ( I think I'm doing it right), but
all this talk about fuel cut had persuaded me to input a question.
When I release my clutch I get a studder from about 1-3 gears. I've
only had the car for about 3 months and just thought I was severely
lacking in the ability to learn it's clutch. Anyway, I cleaned out my
intercooler, pulled off my airhorn and removed the silencer, and to my
delight the studder was gone! I was pleasntly surprised. But now,
about a 4 days later, I can feel the studder developing again. By the
way my mileage stinks to, and always has since I've had it. I've got a
K&N on the way and I think I will change the fuel filter for good
measure.
Any comments?
Karl.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 18:47:56 -0800
From: Eric <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G,T] Tran$fer ca$e, vi$cou$ coupling
Message-ID: <#21>
So there I was driving along as usual in the fast lane when I feel a jolt and hear
a
bang. I decide, luckily, to pull over. As I slow to a stop my rear-end locks up!
After getting out and seeing the skid marks I realize that I've got a bigger
problem
than I can handle on the left shoulder. I call AAA. Ever try to tow an
all-wheel-drive with a locked up rear-end? Gotta jack up the rear-end on a dolly
and
tow it from the front. Straight to the dealer. SATAN says "It's probably the
center
diff." Estimate $1500. Ouch! So after the weekend SATAN calls me and says I
need a
transfer case and viscous coupling Est. $3000. Now that they've got me by the
____ s
I reluctantly agree. By the time I got out of there I paid $3500 for 5th gear,
Viscous coupling, transfer case($1800 - shoulda called Buschur), $900 in labor
and a
bunch of little parts. So I drive out of the dealer in my 90 GSX $3500 poorer.
For
that amount of cash I could've ... The worst part is the cars worth no more
than it was before this happened. This car has been VERY reliable but when it
breaks...IT COSTS!
[Again, I recommend to everyone to check the links from the HOWTO and FAQ
section of the website to determine whether or not your center diff is
leaking. You could save your life! -talon mgr]
Eric
Buddy can you spare a dime?
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 21:51:08 -0500
From: jim craig <[email protected]>
Subject: detriot autoshow meet!
Message-ID: <#22>
hello all you motor heads in the detriot area I'm sure you know about
the upcoming auto show by now but I am planing on going this up coming
sunday and wa wondering if anyone on the list would like to meet up. if
you do rtp and I'll get back to you as soon as possible mail me at
[email protected] or [email protected]
thanks jim gvr4 #391/1k got_rice
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 22:04:54 -0500
From: "beavis" <[email protected]>
Subject: Mushy response continues
Message-ID: <#23>
Okay, for any of you who have been following my saga - My car won't go
under boost... It feels 'mushy'. I suspect it is running really rich since my gas mileage is POOR. So, I replaced the O2 sensor, no dice (I
didn't realize that the ECU dosent really use it under accell, or above
35-4000 RPM, which is exactly where my problems happen). Tonight I wanted
to eliminate the possiblilty that I had a clogged fuel filter - so that has
been replaced (not really too bad if you pull the battery & battery box).
Still no luck. Now I am stumped.
Tommorrow night I'm pulling the IC and checking for leaks. I have already
checked all the hoses, and looked at every vaccum line for cracks & leaks
without finding anything unusual. I am beginning to suspect the MAS itself.
Is there any way of checking these things? Would anyone in upstate NY with
a 91 turbo PLEASE loan me a MAS for like 5 minutes so I can find out?
I'll do all the work and promise not to take more than a half hour... (I'm
in Syracuse NY, I'll drive to you within reason...) By the same token, does
anyone have a stock MAS that'll work on a 91 turbo they would part with
cheaply if I need it? Which years will work? (91 TSi, FWD, 5speed)
I think maybe the barometric pressure sensor is screwed up? If my altitude
is about 800 feet ASL, what should I get for a voltage? (and on which pins
or wires?)
Man, if anyone can help me figure this out I will be eternally grateful!
I want power again!
Jeff
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 22:10:14 -0500
From: "Jeff Fritz" <[email protected]>
Subject: [ALL] Warranty work (LONG)
Message-ID: <#24>
Here's some important excerpts from the Magnussen-Moss Warranty Act of
1976.
Print these when the dealer gives you hell about legitimate aftermarket
upgrades (Not 20G's, racing cams, etc...). Tell the dealer that these are
word for word excerpts from the act.
The digest has been such a huge help to me, I hope this can save headaches.
700.1 Products covered.
(a) The Act applies to written warranties on tangible personal property
which is normally used for personal, family, or household purposes. This
definition includes property which is intended to be attached to or
installed in any real property without regard to whether it is so attached
or installed. This means that a product is a ``consumer product'' if the use
of that type of product is not uncommon. The percentage of sales or the use
to which a product is put by any individual buyer is not determinative. For
example, products such as automobiles and typewriters which are used for
both personal and commercial purposes come within the definition of
consumer
product. Where it is unclear whether a particular product is covered under
the definition of consumer product, any ambiguity will be resolved in favor
of coverage.
700.8 Warrantor's decision as final.
A warrantor shall not indicate in any written warranty or service contract
either directly or indirectly that the decision of the warrantor, service
contractor, or any designated third party is final or binding in any dispute
concerning the warranty or service contract. Nor shall a warrantor or
service contractor state that it alone shall determine what is a defect
under the agreement. Such statements are deceptive since section 110(d) of
the Act gives state and federal courts jurisdiction over suits for breach of
warranty and service contract.
700.9 Duty to install under a full warranty.
Under section 104(a)(1) of the Act, the remedy under a full warranty must be
provided to the consumer without charge. If the warranted product has
utility only when installed, a full warranty must provide such installation
without charge regardless of whether or not the consumer originally paid for
installation by the warrantor or his agent. However, this does not preclude
the warrantor from imposing on the consumer a duty to remove, return, or
reinstall where such duty can be demonstrated by the warrantor to meet the
standard of reasonableness under section 104(b)(1).
700.10 Section 102(c).
(a) Section 102(c) prohibits tying arrangements that condition coverage
under a written warranty on the consumer's use of an article or service
identified by brand, trade, or corporate name unless that article or service
is provided without charge to the consumer.
(b) Under a limited warranty that provides only for replacement of defective
parts and no portion of labor charges, section 102(c) prohibits a condition
that the consumer use only service (labor) identified by the warrantor to
install the replacement parts. A warrantor or his designated representative
may not provide parts under the warranty in a manner which impedes or
precludes the choice by the consumer of the person or business to perform
necessary labor to install such parts.
(c) No warrantor may condition the continued validity of a warranty on the
use of only authorized repair service and/or authorized replacement parts
for non-warranty service and maintenance. For example, provisions such as,
``This warranty is void if service is performed by anyone other than an
authorized ÀBC' dealer and all replacement parts must be genuine ÀBC'
parts,'' and the like, are prohibited where the service or parts are not
covered by the warranty. These provisions violate the Act in two ways.
700.12 Effective date of 16 CFR Parts 701 and 702.
The Statement of Basis and Purpose of the final rules promulgated on
December 31, 1975, provides that Parts 701 and 702 of this chapter will
become effective one year after the date of promulgation, December 31, 1976.
The Commission intends this to mean that these rules apply only to written
warranties on products manufactured after December 31, 1976.
Thanks again go to Greg Carlsen for pointing me in the right direction.
I'll post on what happens after revealing this to the dealer.
Jeff Fritz
95 GS-T w/ the WARRANTIED 97 facia
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 00:11:02 -0500
From: [email protected] (Edward Puskaric)
Message-ID: <#25>
>To me, Chrysler did such a bad job selling these cars that they actually
>did more harm than good. They really hurt the credibility of this car
>because of the crappy job they have done.
The advertisement issue must be a regional or location issue...
I have seen many more Talon commercials than I have for the Eclipse.
Most of which featured the actor that use to be the host of that show
called "Talk Soup" which is on the cable channel "E!".
He also played in that movie "Sabrina" with Harrison Ford.
(I can't remember his name, anyhow his name is not important for this
discussion)
If I would have known this would have been an issue years down the road,
I would have taped them all! :-)
On the specific topic of Chrysler hurting DSM sales by not "supposedly"
advertising
and/or selling the Talon...
How can the Talon which some people are claiming was not advertised or sold
well,
(which would result in less exposure for the Talon) hurt the sales of the
Eclipse?
If the customer base doesn't know about the Talon, how does it hurt the
Eclipse?
Just because a car is less advertised doesn't make it have a "bad" image.
How many ads on TV do you see for the Corvette or 3000GT?
Seen any TV ads for the Supra lately?
I don't think either of these cars are hurting their respective companies.
Oh, BTW, whenever I am ready for a new car, if the Eclipse is still around
it would be my next purchase.
For those that don't know, THESE CARS ARE THE SAME except for the
plastic add ons and trim. If you bash one, you might as well bash the
entire line that was produced "T/E/L".
One of the reasons why I purchased the Talon over the Eclipse was the
warranty,
at least back when I bought my 90 Talon, which came with a 7/70 powertrain.
Mistu owners got 3/36 bumper to bumper. Each has its own advantages, at the
time I was concerned about this all new car with all wheel drive and all of
the powertrain that goes with it.
I don't buy based on the amount or quality of advertisement.
The performance of the car is what I am interested in.
Bang for the buck is a key point, and if its a car that everybody and their
mother doesn't already own, that makes it even better!
A satisfied and proud owner of an Eagle Talon! :-)
You don't have to like it, I love it and that's what counts...
Edward Puskaric
'90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - 155K miles and still Fly'n
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 00:30:50 -0500
Subject: Alternator Going Out?
Message-ID: <#26>
Hey All,
A couple of weeks ago I bought a new Unden 360 degree dash mount
radar dector, nice unit. Well anyway, as I was driving home I saw one
of my buddies outside of a store downtown, so I honked at him, when I
honked the radar detector lit up all four lights. I $h!t my pants and
nailed the brakes since I was doing ten over, I looked around, no cops.
I just figuered he was hiding somewhere so I just kept going. Then
about a mile later a guy ran a stop sign and almost nailed me, once
again I hit the brakes and the horn. As soon as I hit the horn the
dector went off again. What the heck? Every time I hit the horn the
dector goes off. I thought it was just the dector. My car went into
satan to have some work done, they gave me a 94' NT as a loner. Iput my
radar dector in it, as an expirement I hit the horn. Nothing. Ooookay?
I just got my car back last week, I noticed the low beems seemed to be
not as bright as the 94' also the idiots didn't put the belts in tight
enough so when I first start the car the belts squeel for about ten
seconds. Well tonight when I got out of work I went out started my car
and the usual belt squeeling starts, then stops as usaul but when I
turned the lights on the car dropped its RPM's from about 1,100 to 900
(It was still warming up thats why the high idle) and the belts started
squeeling again for about 15 seconds. Do I have a short somewhere or is
this normal? Before I bought the car it sat in storage for about a year
and a half, could a mouse have chewed something up? I didn't see any
chewed wires or any sign of a rodent. PLEASE HELP SOMEBODY! The cars
going in again on monday to fix the squeeling so I would like to know if
this is common before satan tries to rip me off again. Thanx.
Erick
92tsi A/T
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 23:34:34 -0600
Subject: VPC > PMS
Message-ID: <#27>
1G, T
I may have started something. I swapped my PMS for a VPC and now my
car's engine makes more power. Someone I don't know jumped up on the
net and claimed that can't be so. Oh. But I was so convinced...
When you spend $1400 or so on something for your car you are not going
to admit you got hosed if it doesn't work as well as you hoped. You
tell yourself that you must "not have it tuned right." You struggle to
believe the hype, after all you spent 1400 bucks! You tune and tune.
Weeks turn into months. Months turn into years. It never quite seems
tuned just right. Every attempt seems to make it better, you tell
yourself.
Then you hook up a VPC for the first time. You take the car out for a
quick run around the block and find yourself racing about the
countryside for two hours with a HUGE grin on your face! Where has this
VPC been all your life? The difference is like night and day! Is it
because you don't know how to tune a PMS? You don't think so.
Sir, you must have spent 1400 dollars, too! Wait a while.
I have nothing against the PMS, really. Each one assures hours, no
months, of tuning adventure! They ought to come with a pair of
rose-colored glasses, too! The one I had didn't like my car so I got rid
of it at a financial loss... and I couldn't be happier!
It is true the idle performance afforded by the VPC is not as good as
the stock MAS and ECU alone, and not as good as with the PMS. I didn't
buy the so-called "Performance Management System" to improve idle
performance. I bought it because I wanted to win races. Thanks to the
VPC, now I can!
These are my humorous, but well-meaning, observations. If you find that
the PMS works well in your car, more power to you ;>) Vive la PMS!
(Somebody has to come in second!)
Happy and safe driving!
Rick
'92 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 06 Jan 98 23:34:52 PST
From: "Dave Campbell" <[email protected]>
Subject: New Gauge Faces and NT Mileage
Message-ID: <#28>
Got a set of red gauge faces from the Purple Plymouth Guy before
Christmas and got them installed on New Year's day. It isn't difficult.
You can get the instument cluster out of the car in 10 minutes, tops.
The hardest part is taking the cluster apart with your eyes closed,
while repeating to yourself "it is just an instument cluster, how hard
can it be?". Well, three hands would be helpful, but not absolutely
necessary.
Getting the needles back on in the same place is tricky. My temp
gauge read almost hot after I warmed up the car. The needle was
nearly 1/2" from where it was when I took it off. So, since I had put
the cluster back in the car without the clear cover, I just popped the
temp needle off and put it on in the normal position. Then I finished
the reassembly.
It took me somewhat over 2 hours to complete the job, although I think
I could do it quicker the next time, especially with my eyes open.
The red gauges really dress up the car, complimenting the red exterior.
This is important as I have given up on making the car go faster. Hah!
And am now concentrating on my Riceboy image. Some dress-up stuff
for the engine and clear corners are next.
On a new subject, utensil said:
>The best I've ever got is 27 mpg[US] 35 mpg[imperial]
>Note: An imperial gallon has 20oz. and not 16oz thus the numbers are bigger
>in Canada(Bigger pints too)
Well, 27mi./16oz is pretty good mileage in my book. That is 216 mpg, I think.
My NT gets 22mpg in town and maybe 30 on the highway. My 1.8 got 36mpg
in mostly 65mph interstate driving from Abilene to Jacksonville FL back in '92.
Actually an imperial gallon is over 4.8 quarts, but then Canada is alot
like Texas only bigger. The numbers are, too.
Dave, are my faces red, Campbell
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 00:28:01 -0500
From: [email protected] (Edward Puskaric)
Subject: Re: Buschur "Beetle" downpipe
Message-ID: <#29>
>Some people have noticed a VW Bug sound to their exhaust after installing
the
>Buschur dp. This, I believe is due to the thin gauge of the pipe. I installed
>an Archer dp on my car which made no change to the sound of my car. The
Archer
>dp uses heavier gauge tubing though. The Archer 2G FWD dp easily out ways
the
>Buschur AWD dp by 1-2 lbs... I used to have a toyota truck where I replaced
the
>exhaust manifold w/a header which used thin gauge tubing. It made "tingy"
>sounds too.
For buzzing exhaust sounds, has anybody tried using that exhuast header heat
wrap
stuff? I have never used this stuff before but have seen it in the auto stores.
I wonder if one was to wrap this stuff around the exhaust pipe, if it would quiet
down the buzzing noise discussed here...?
Any comments, anybody tried it?
Edward Puskaric
'90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 00:12:02 -0600
From: Lorrin Barth <[email protected]>
Subject: damper, tbelt, & snow
Message-ID: <#30>
All the talk about underdrive pulleys and several recent posts
about damper failure finally convinced me to change out the
damper on my car. The old one had come cracks in the rubber.
Was it ready to fail? Don't know.
With tax, the damage was $119.78. Tallahasse Motors
(www.worldparts.com) sent a quote but I never acted on it.
I guess I didn't realize what a big savings they were
offering. Sorry guys. I like to support the local dealer but
not this much.
* Part Number
Description
List Price
Your Price
1.MD338315 89-9/92BALANCER PULLEY $88.02
2.MD338316 10/92-94BALANCER PULLEY $88.02
$74.59
$74.59
While breaking the balancer bolts loose, the crank rotated
counterclockwise a little and I noticed the timing belt was loose
at the crank sprocket. This belt has been on the car for seven
months. With the upper cover off, I could make the sprockets
move by pressing down on the belt. When the crank was turned
in the direction of operation, the slack disappeared and the belt
was tight. I ran the engine and checked the belt several more
times. I was never able to depress the belt more than 1/8" at
the sprockets and the sprockets didn't move. I don't know what
this means but it surprised me a little. Any comments?
Last October, in a freak snowstorm, I popped the glass in the
hatch - it had to be reglued. Picture 20" of wet snow, churned up
by AWD SUV,s and then frozen solid. BTW, most of the SUV's that did
the churning were still stuck out on the highway when I came along.
It was the roughest ride I'd ever experienced. I've got the ST bar
that hangs down under the car too. Still, no traction problems and
no new rattles.
I'll put in my two cents about Chrysler and then get out of here.
The dealer I bought the car from had maybe thirty Lasers and Talons
and nobody interested. The deal took about 5 minutes. Sometimes
its nice to find a car company that doesn't know what it is doing.
Barney
92laserAWDturbo
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 22:22:18 -0800
Subject: Canada thoughts, Bright Lights
Message-ID: <#31>
Well... as for killing the Talon... hmmm... I only hope Mitsubishi
actually does move into Canada as otherwise north of the border
Integras and Preludes might be the only new street machines and might
just take over the Candadian streets(of course we'll always have 1gs
kicking their a$$e$) Anyhow, all that is left after the LAser disappeared
was the Talon. Hey besides Eagle Talon just SOUNDS more aggressive than
'Mitsu Eclipse' or Plymouth Laser'
What ever happened to the names of cars 30 years ago... hmmm...
As for bright lights on our Cars... The gas used is Xenon and is used on
some European cars (I believe it isn't totally legal here yet[red tape])
Probably one of those things that are overlooked cuz I see them on the road.
I heard they were so bright because of constant arcing but I don't beleive that.
But I do know that the gas used is Xenon.
Hope this helps.
.G.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 02:22:50 -0500 (EST)
From: David Planton <[email protected]>
Subject: talon/eclipse ads
Message-ID: <#32>
As for me I think Chrysler ought to lose the talon, heck they couldn't
seem to find time to promote the laser and killed it too. And for ads I
have only seen 3 ads for an Eclipse - EVER. 2 when the 95s came out and
one when the 97s came out. I used to see continuous ads for the Talon
though! Heck there is one Chry Co dealedship here in town that just spent
umpteen thousand dollars a year ago for the Eagle line and they have now
sold a grand total of 11 talons only one was a turbo. The nearest Mitsu
dealer is 50 miles away and they had over 100 NT Eclipses on the lot, but
only 4 turbos. I talked to both the Eagle and Mitsu dealer about this and
apparantly Chrysler only orders built a fraction of the total number of cars
that come out of the DSM plant as compared to Mitsu. I think Chryslers
problem lies in their sales and marketing of a fine performance vehicle,
it dosn't and apparently for several years has NEVER existed. The only
Chry Co ads I've seen recently have been for Dodge, I don't know maybe
they think adding racing stripes to a Neon will make people who wanted a
Talon want one of those instead.?
David Planton
97 GSX "TRBO 4X4"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 02:38:44 -0500
From: Chad Gray <[email protected]>
Subject: Oil cooler was loose/Leak Down testor
Message-ID: <#33>
I just bought a 91 AWD and was noticing oil dripping onto one of the
support beams. After inspecting the Oil Filter closer. I noticed the
entire Oil Filter, and oil Cooler were LOOSE. If you dont change your own
oil you would never know you were loosing oil out of this assembly. It
takes a 24mm Deep Socket to tighten the Stud that the oil filter attaches
to. This stud is what holds the Oil Cooler on.
Can someone explain how a leak down testor works? What kinda of
information will I get from this test that a compression test will not? I
wanna make sure the test is worth the $60 for the tool.
Chad Gray
IRC: Cable
'91 Talon Tsi FWD
'91 Talon Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 04:02:46 EST
From: ThomasS8 <[email protected]>
Subject: 4 bolt upgrade question
Message-ID: <#34>
Just outta curiousity, does anyone have a guess as to why the 92's and later
were upgraded with the stronger rear ends? Certainly it costed money to
redesign it, and it seems unlikely that there were any problems with 3-bolts
failing under warranty on stock cars. And it seems unlikely that they upgraded
so the few 300+ HP cars (were there any back then?) wouldn't break their
axles
while drag racing.
Tom Spargo
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 7 Jan 1998 01:37:44 -0800
From: "Cameron Rittich" <[email protected]>
Subject: Cut springs
Message-ID: <#35>
I saw some misinformation about cutting springs and I thought I'd clear it
up. Cutting springs will increase your spring rate! And this is not
entirely bad if you have the shock to control the higher spring frequency.
When you put in lowering springs you need a proper set of struts/shocks to
control their motion. Anyway, have a look at the following formula
(borrowed from Grassroots Motorsports, May 97):
k=(d^4*G)/(8D^3*N)
^ -to the fourth power, or third power
* -multiply
/ -divide
k -spring rate
d -diameter of spring wire
G -shear modulus of elasticity of spring steel (11,500,000)
D -mean diameter of the springs coils
N -number of active coils
The formula shows that reducing the number of coils will increase your
spring rate! The stock springs are progessive and make this analyis a
little supect, but it holds true for a linear springs such as the
Suspension Techniques. The bottom portion is where the cutting should take
place, as the top portion is formed to the flat surface of the upper spring
seat.
To determine your *new* ride height, you need to know the weight on your
front and rear wheels. I've been told it's 1987 lbs front and 1182 lbs
rear - divide by two to get single wheel load. To preserve stock weight
transfer I would think it would be best to increase spring rate xx% front
and rear. If you want to dial out some understeer, it may be possible to
increase the rear spring rate more than the front. Well, in theory at
least... For the price of new springs, I don't think I'll try this
approach. In addition, once you do the numbers on this spring cutting you
may come to the conclusion that to drop your car 1.3 inches front AND rear
may require an unacceptably high spring rate in the rear (less weight on
the rear springs).
Cam, 92 Talon TSi AWD
"that's all I knows and I dont knows no more"
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 07:46:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Synthetic oil...
Message-ID: <#36>
:The car care guys said "Well, you did have 130K and those things are going
:to happen, BUT we have heard that synthetics affect the swelling of seals
:less than dino oil, so If you were using synthetics for a LONG time and
:then switched to dino for an oil change or two your seals will wear, then
:when you switch back to synth things start to leak."
In my experience with full true synthetic oil (Amsoil) over the past 10
years, I would have to say that the opposite is true. We have seen old
dried out seals that were leaking on older cars, come back to life when
switched to synthetic. More than one engine, we have actually observed slow
external seeping oil leaks that have completely ceased.
Many people with RX-7's also recommend the synthetics in their engines too,
and if you know much about the rotary engine, a good seal life is a must.
I would not hesitate to switch your car to a good quality, full synthetic
oil.
Andrew - 97 TSi AWD - Fully Synthetic (except the hydraulic clutch, as I
remembered one recently cold morning!)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 08:11:38 -0500
Subject: Re: New Car Pricing
Message-ID: <#37>
:I wouldn't worry too much about the dealer. He/she is not going to approve
:a sale in which the dealership takes a loss. You CAN buy a car for dealer
:invoice+destination, I did. But finding deals like that takes a little luck
:and a lot of effort on the buyer's part. Plus, you have to forget about
:finding the exact colour and options you want.
You may not have to... there are a few ways to get what you want, AND pay
invoice+destination, or in my case, I paid invoice+destination+$150. Find a
local Amway distributor... they have a motoring purchase plan set-up with
all of the big auto makers, that lets you buy a car for 'dealer
cost'+$150...
Worked for me... they tried to find me the exact car I wanted, and when they
couldn't, they ordered one from the factory. The nice thing is, that you
also do all your dealings with the manager, and thus don't have to deal
with, or haggle with, any of the idiot salespeople. :)
Andrew - 97 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 05:42:22 -0800
Subject: [ALL] Mitsubishi SST Concept/Detroit Autoshow
Message-ID: <#38>
Hello everyone...your watching Live,Breaking-Coverage on the DSM News
Network...ok,I'll shut-up...I think anyone interested in what's going on
with the future of the "3G" should look at these pages,This is the
Mitsubishi SST, it does (slightly)resemble the 2g,it refers to the engine
as "adopted"(in Japanese,so don't take my word for it),and this was also
created here by MRDA,the same people who created the 2G Eclipse,it would
be exported from Japan-IF they finished & made it(it is a Concept car),I
don't know what Mitsu's plans are or anything,so don't ask me :)
Opinions will vary greatly on this thing, your gonna have to see it
yourself.
Body size: length-4450mm X width-1860mm X wheelbase-1236mm
Weight: 1134kg
Engine type: 16valve DOHC Turbo engine-210hp,215ft lbs torque
Drivetrain: sports mode 4 AT,Front engine/Front drive
Body structure:steel/carbon panel
Wheels: 20"x8.5" Enkei with 245/40R20 Michelen tires
Mitsu just put this up on there page at:
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/NEWS/2922.html
You can also see a rotating picture at(select "SST"):
http://carpoint.msn.com/Autoshow98/surround
p.s.-MRDA AMERICA is in Cypress,CA., so maybe someone could drop
by...Todd?...:)
http://web1.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/TDC/DesignWorkRoom/MRDA_e.html
later,
Steve.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 01:39:42 +1100
Subject: Shocks/Evo IV swap/VCs
Message-ID: <#39>
SHOCKS: Oil shocks sink while Gas pressurized shocks come straight back
up unless very heavily valved (normally only competition)
EVO IV SWAP: Only one problem with an engine swap using the 4G63 210Kw
engine from the Lancer EVO IV. Mitsubishi turned it around 180 deg so
now it runs west/east. The big power gains are from 1/ a twin scroll
turbo 2/ 15 psi standard 3/ 2 1/2 in exhaust standard and a huge
intercooler with water spray as standard equipment.
VCs:
Viscous couplings are definatley a silicone bath. The first were
developed over 10 years ago specifically for 600BHP group B rally cars
by a company called FFD in Britain. This was basically a competitive
handling advantage over the almost unbeatable Audi Quattro's that had
50:50 locked centre diffs and handled like $h!t. A standard production
VC constantley varies the torque split front to rear in responce to
traction, (I.e. when you dump the clutch at 5,000rpm , most of the
torque goes to the back because of weight transfer ).
The current world rally technology involves active diffs that are
hydro/electronic, but all I know about them is that they have no slip
limiting effect in off throttle situations to improve turn in and reduce
the natural understeer you get from locked or tight diffs.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 08:31:15 -0600
From: "Al Zieba" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [3g] Detroit Autoshow
Message-ID: <#40>
> If anyone knows anything or can find pictures, please post
Yes, The Mitsubishi 3g Eclipse Concept Car is code named -Mitsubishi SST go to these websites for more info on:
Specs (very brief)
http://www.auto.com/98autoshow/specs/mitsubishi_sst.htm
RA Player Video http://www.auto.com/98autoshow/video/index.htm
Looks cool, kinda like a cross between the EVO and a Ferrari
Testarossa. The production car will probably be a mild version of
the concept car.
Al
'97 Spyder GST
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 10:52:30 -0500
From: Joseph Cernada <[email protected]>
Subject: 3G pictures!?
Message-ID: <#41>
There's a picture of the Mitsubishi SST show car at the Detroit auto show...
http://carpoint.msn.com/AutoShow98/Coverage/Day2?m=Mitsubishi
"While Pierre Gagnon, executive vice president and chief operating officer of
Mitsubishi North America, read off a list of all their competitor vehicles
that are no longer in production, he assured the crowd of journalists that
Mitsubishi has no plans to leave the sports-car market."
Joe Cernada
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 11:13:01 -0500
From: Keith Casey <[email protected]>
Subject: Brake Upgrade and Sighting
Message-ID: <#42>
[RTP]
I was wondering if anyone has done a "big brake" upgrade for the 2nd Gen
FWD? If so can you let me know what you have, where you got it and approx
cost for it? I need to redo my brakes and I want something better for the
upcoming auto-x season. Thinking about crossdrilled. Any help would be
greatly appreciated.
Also...
Bristol, Rhode Island, this past friday the 2nd. Black eclipse with the
yellow stripes, war-wing on the back, on the list? E-mail me.
Todd, you da man.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 10:38:44 CST
From: "Tome" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Talon, Laser, Eclipse
Message-ID: <#43>
>Can't say that Mitsubishi's current ads are much better than nothing
>though. The woman learning a foreign language in the Spyder GS-T is
>definately not much of a sports car image builder. The Galant
>commercials are more exciting than the Eclipse ads now, and you NEVER
>see a 3000GT ad.
Around here the 3000Gt was not a much advertised car anyway. And if you
think about it neither is the Mousetang, Camaro, Firechicken (saw one
recently though), Corrado, dis-Integra, etc... but they all had and have
various levels of sales "success".
But my point, why are we on this thread? It is starting to sound as if
Eclipse is better than Talon than Laser than Eclipse than Laser.
What is the point? Who cares. Their DSMs, they ARE the same car with
slight differences which give them uniqueness.
Also, as far as Eclipcse or Talon, in the Chicago area the Talon is more
known than the Eclipse. And I see more Talons and Lasers than Eclipses.
I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that regionally those numbers
are different on the coasts.
I don't think the Talon line is being dropped because it didn't make
money. I think the dropping of the Talon has to do with Chrysler
building better products than it used to and no longer needs the
assistance of foriegn car manufacturers to help with fresh ideas.
We'll see how long that lasts. :)
And not to mention, Chrysler in now profitable again.
Does anyone have actual numbers on TEL sales, individually by brand?
Specifically the 90-94 years. I ask that not as a superiorty issue but
as a factual number.
Everything changed in 95 when the big redesign happened. That year was
a design based more on the female buying market. There was a lady who
had much to do with that redesign and sales figures showed a marked
increase in purchase by females on those models.
Be in touch with your feminine side, by a TEL. :)
(sales slogan)
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 11:19:16 -0600
From: Victor DelCol-YEGR07 <[email protected]>
Subject: Brake Grease
Message-ID: <#44>
>Is wheel bearing grease sufficient for the temps experienced by brake
>parts? I haven't been able to find any brake grease per se.
Do not use wheel bearing grease on brake parts. It will swell and seize or
ruin the rubber parts.
Many people use high temperature antiseize grease but depending on its
chemical composition it may have the same bad effect on rubber.
Silicon (dielectric) grease is one of the safest to use and supposedly it is
good up to 500 degrees.
Victor
95 Talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 09:38:22 -0800
From: Tom Stangl <[email protected]>
Subject: Drive with spark plug out?
Message-ID: <#45>
OK, in order to get my car the 40 miles to where I am going to rip the
engine apart, I have to get there on 3 cylinders. It's amazing how smooth
and powerful our engines are on 3 cylinders, BUT...
It smokes like a mother, and I don't want to smokescreen the entire
interstate. So I pulled the plug to the injector in cyl3. The smoke
decreased a LOT, but is still too much. I figure that piston is forcing
oil vapor out the dead valve and shoving it into the intake, where it is
getting sucked into the other cylinders, causing the smokescreen. So if I
pull out the spark plug for that cyl, it will just blow a little oil out
the valve cover (which I can cover with a cloth to catch most of it).
Question is, WHAT will that do to the coil system, if I pull that plug wire
off of the coil? What can I cap the coil off with to avoid arcing to the
intake manifold? I don't want to fry my coils in the process of getting
the car to its' destination.
Any help appreciated, I will most likely be moving the car Fri night or Sat
morning.
Tom Stangl
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 11:42:48 -0500
Subject: Re: 3rd Gear Performance disappointment
Message-ID: <#46>
I've read a couple of road tests where a G60 Corrado absolutely killed
a 1G after 3rd gear. Could it be that 3rd/ 4th gear is too tall?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 09:57:12 -0800
From: "Osterman, Kirk B" <[email protected]>
Subject: Autoshow Concept car - (3G?)
Message-ID: <#47>
Hey,
Some info and a picture of Mitsubishi's new sport coupe concept car
(Mitsubishi SST) that was unvieled at the Detroit auto show are
available at...
http://carpoint.msn.com/AutoShow98/Coverage/Day2?m=Mitsubishi
Kirk Osterman
97 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:05:50 -0500
From: "Fedja Jeleskovic"<[email protected]>
Subject: Bild your own O2 sensor
Message-ID: <#48>
Hi,
Here is a web site with the instruction how to build your own O2 sensor.
Check it out ... maybe you can do it ...
http://www.students.tut.fi/~eppu/dev/EGO-bar.html
Fedja
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:08:14 EST
From: TSi91Turbo <[email protected]>
Subject: checked ecu, alarm install info needed
Message-ID: <#49>
I posted the other day with my weird computer problem, (rpm guage rapidily
from 1200 to 2400). Todd, I checked the ecu board, and saw no signs of
leaking, I forgot to mention that I changed the coolant the night before, and
did get some water in the engine bay,dont know if that matters. you also
suggest that I check the regualor on my altenator, to see if it was in
limits, I have the hanyes manual, but I could not find a way to check
this.help me out?
RTP
I'am doing a aftermarket alarm install, and I was hoping someone could give
me
some information on the colors and locations of some wires I need to tap,
because I'am with out a shop manual. 1st is the parking light circut (+12v).
2nd factory door pin switch, or courtesy light wire, both the (+12v) and the
(-). 3rd 12v ignition accessory on/start wire. 4th has to do with the door
locks, the door lock switch lock wire, and unlock wire, also the aculator
wire. the car is a 91 Talon tsi awd
with out abs...no factory alarm. please RTP...thanks in advance!
Robert Sherman
'91 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:29:24 EST
From: BLCF1 <[email protected]>
Subject: HELP-----problems with my engine light---Message-ID: <#50>
Recently I upgraded my exhaust on my 91 Tsi awd to a full three inch exhaust
minus the cat. ever since then my engine light comes on about a minute after
I start the car and stays on forever. the car runs great, but the ecu pulls a
code that says "no code present" I heard that some other people have had the
same problem when they remove the cat. any info on how I can fix this or
what it could be please e mail me back.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 11:32:36 -0800
Subject: O2 sensor connector
Message-ID: <#51>
>I would like to hook up my Voltmeter to the o2 sensor to find out if I'm
>lean or rich under accell -where do I do it? I read in the archive search
>that there is a connector for just this purpose, but it didn't mention
>which/where or which pins.
I did the same thing about a month ago--an archive seach for
some reason does not reveal WHERE the test connector for the
O2 sensor is. So, this is for the archives:
For a 1G, the O2 sensor test connector is in the passenger side
footwell. Remove the footwell panel and then look for a bunch
of connectors that are taped together. The O2 sensor connector
is a SINGLE (thus, small) connector taped to the harness near
the "top" (read: follow the harness upwards until you find it).
Connect the + lead on your voltmeter (make sure you have at
least 10K ohms resistence in your meter 1st or else you may
ground the signal) to the connector and the - lead to ground.
Ken
90 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 12:23:25 -0700
Subject: Race in Tucson Arizona
Message-ID: <#52>
Sorry for this late message but this coming Saturday, 1/10/98 there will be
a race in Tucson. The event will have a bunch of classes and there's going
to be an import race so if interested in going shoot me an email and I can
post directions.
Later,
Guilly
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 10:01:56 -0700
From: Benny Chin-O10342 <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Combat Kit
Message-ID: <#53>
Hello,
I have brought a Combat Kit (rear bumper only) from Andy's Auto Sport,
the shipping is expensive ($100) for just one bumper cover. But that's
ok, however, it didn't fit. It requires a lot of cutting and molding. It
cost me a lot of money for the body shop to finish the job for me. Also,
the surface finish is rough. You can see a lot of little tiny holes.
Lastly, it requires you to cut (most of)/remove the font/rear bumper(the
big solid plastic bar that sits behind the bumper cover).
I was not happy with the purchase but I already paid the money and it is
non-refundable. It finally cost me a lot more than I thought.
The kit looks very cool but think twice before you buy it.
Thanks,
Benny
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:38:46 -0600
Subject: milage and tank fill times.
Message-ID: <#54>
Wow. You can fill up at 340mile! Gee I have to fill up at 240 miles
usually (220) recently). Often I drive will the fuel light on for a
couple of days and the guage below empty (and still put 13 something
gallons in...)
Bryan
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:46:39 -0600 (CST)
From: Scott Guth <[email protected]>
Subject: Misc. Questions
Message-ID: <#55>
Just few quick questions that have been bouncing around in my head...
[RTP]
1. Can anyone recommend some good brake pads- it seems one of mine has
glazed over slightly, so I would like to replace them with something
grippier. Direct fit and moderately priced would be preferable.
2. I've tried checking my O2 sensor with little effect- the Haynes manual
says to disconnect it before checking for voltage from the sensor... I
didn't recall hearing the sensor alone "makes" voltage! Needless to say,
I got no voltage. Could someone describe what the test connector behind
the passenger side kick panel looks like- I know a few others have also
looked for it in the archives as well and couldn't find a description.
3. My car sucks at gas mileage- even when I baby it I can't touch 20 mpg. My
tires are stock size and fully inflated (moderately hard compound). I have
no trouble codes though my exhaust tips are coated thick with soot- I'm
guessing O2 sensor, but I don't know yet. My plugs look fine and are
gapped correctly. My air filter is clean as can be. I'm lucky if I can
touch 220 miles on the tripometer before the tank is empty. Where would
you guys/gals look next?
On a separate note, I got rid of my >70mph vibration simply by having a
different garage rebalance my wheels- they were all off on both sides by .25
to .75 oz.! Took it up to 85mph on the way back home with NO vibrationwahoo!
Please RTP answers to my questions except for the O2 sensor one. I know
there are many others who would be interested in hearing the answer. Thanks
in advance!
Scott Guth
*1993 green/tan Talon TSI AWD 5 speed loaded
Free mods, 25hp window tint, and tweaked boost :)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:00:02 -0800
Precedence: list
Today's Topics:
1) Vincent Chiaro
DSM sighting in SF Bay Area
2) mkline
Advertising the Eclipse
3) Josh Wingell
Low voltage
4) Brett
Starion/Conquest Intercooler answers
5) Donald Spring
stumble....Please help
6) RUFRIDR
Sarcasm?!?
7) Todd Girvin
RE:FW: 1990 Eagle Talon shimmy - Help
8) Josh Wingell
3G at Detroit Auto Show
10) Wayne Gucwa
WTB: OEM Alloy rim for "90 Eagle Talon AWD
11) Michael Bryant
94 tranny
13) Sean
timing help
14) BlueTalon2
RE:War Stories
15) Scottyhe
caliper painting
16) fjin
20G for sale.
17) DEVLISH
crazy alignment
18) Dave Mertz
Incorrect Boost Indication
19) Randall Morin
GVR4 Wheels & Tires For Sale
20) Christopher Schaffer Balance eliminator kit questions
21) beavis
power loss solved!!!!
22) starsfns
talon back, finally
23) lowell
drove to work today...
24) ATL Computer Service Re: Battery connections, Stereo hookup, Adam
Wang
25) Paul Lyons
which leak?
26) Mike Cone
RE: PMS vs VPC
27) Andrew V
Panic Button for '95 Talon Tsi AWD
28) Damian Sigman
Shootout'98 Website
29) KiLJoY
Clutchmasters Kevlar Clutch
30) Grant Fritts
Re: Shindley's PMS post and response
31) GRNMACH
Re: 16g gourp purchase
32) TurboMike
WANG
33) Alexander S.
18G News + Many Questions, Need of Turbo Timer?
34) GRNMACH
Re: Transfer case, viscous coupling
35) KEVIN BROWN
cracked brake rotors
36) Intrepid Traveller/L Re: '98 Factory Alarm (was '98 GSX Price)
37) Chad Gray
Re: Brake painting.
38) Dean!
Crankshaft Pulley
39) Dean!
trailer it?
40) animal
Spoilers
41) animal
Kill/Save Talon, Eagle Marketing
42) Sdjewett
re:Adam Wang
43) Andrew Bienhaus
Amsoil/Amway
44) Keith McDonnell
Re: Air Filter Problems...
46) Dave Larsen
AWD, fear, & slippery roads
47) Andrew Bienhaus
Re: Boost Pressure
48) Eric Simpson
OH plate AWD GSX
49) Devil Bat
16G and my sputtering solved!
50) Warren C Daniel
Porsche War Story!
51) Gary Gill
1g, new email address
52) guillermo_polo
Tucson Race info.
53) Mad Mark the Code Wa New Car Pricing in Cyberspace
54) Gabriel Iliadis
2G - Torque, Horsepower and its relation to Gas Co
55) Matt Jannusch
Re: Stereo Hookup [1G]
56) Matt Jannusch
Re: Kill The Talon
57) Todd Streed
Porche turbo timer
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date:
Wed, 7 Jan 1998 12:01:17 -0800
From: "Vincent Chiaro" <[email protected]>
Subject: DSM sighting in SF Bay Area
Message-ID: <#1>
Was dropping off a date on 1-6-98 and noticed two DSMs parked in Foster
City. There was one black 1G Talon TSi AWD parked on Edgewater Drive/Blvd?
It has a Racing Sports Akimoto sticker on the rear bumper and a "4wd"
sticker in front of where it says "TSi" in the rear. It also had some
stickers on the side and looked lowered. Noticed you had "The Club" on it
too but I think the flat tire in the front would be enough of a deterant. :)
Anyone from the list?
Second sighting is also on Edgewater Drive/Blvd and was a 2G. Looked like it
might have been dark green but this was pretty late/dark out. It was a 95/96
and looked pretty much stock. It had the dual exhuast tips but I didn't stop
to check if it was a GST or GSX. Anyone here want to claim either of these
cars?
VINCE
95 TSi AWD
spookie on irc.dsm.org
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 15:07:24 -0500
Subject: Advertising the Eclipse
Message-ID: <#2>
FRom Advertising Age Magazine...January 5, 1997:
"Mitsubishi Motor Sales of America launches its 1998-model advertising
today, the start of an expected $150 million push."
The long and short of it is this: They are starting a national push that
will begin with promotion of the Montero, followed by spots featuring the
whole product line, the Diamante, and the Eclipse (in that order). Don't
expect to see the Eclipse TV spots until March/April. Print ads will start
in February. They also plan to start a major build up for the new 1999
Galant sedan later this year.
Overall the strategy will focus on regional media buys as Mitsu is
increasing the number of regional dealer ad associations from 11 to 40.
About $80 million will be dedicated to the regional promotions. From
January through September 1997, Mitsubishi spent $69 million on
advertising. In all of 1996 they spent $135 million on advertising.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 14:57:28 -0500
From: Josh Wingell <[email protected]>
Subject: Low voltage
Message-ID: <#3>
Hey,
I had a bit of a strange experience this morning. My radar
detector (Bel 855Sti...I think thats it) has a dot-matrix
LED display. I was slowing down from an off ramp and coming
to a stop when it started beeping and flashing "LOW VOLTAGE"
at me!
Now, I know from some messing with the detector that it
monitors the voltage it is getting from the car. In fact,
if you hold down the mute button while pressing the on
switch, you get a nifty digital voltage readout! When I
did this once before, I think it read out at 13.5V. When
I tried it today, it read out at 12.0 - 12.6V while I had
my foot into the gas, 11.5 - 12 when I was just keeping
the car at speed, and as low as 10V(!) when I was stopped!
Now, my car is a 97 GSX. I got it May of 97. It has been
rather cold here in MA recently (go figure). And this
morning it was raining pretty hard and was rather chilly
(high 30s). Assuming that the radar detector is right
(I plan to check it with my voltmeter), and the car's
voltage is really dipping that low, what is the likely
cause?
I know the stock batteries are notirously bad in these
cars. Could that be the cause, even while the car was
idling (and I would assume the alternator would be
doing a fine job of keeping voltage up). Does the
battery have a warranty? Could it be the wet weather?
I am about to take the car in for its 15,000 mi service
(yea, I know its alot, but you have to drive *everywhere*
in MA), and I would like to know what is up before then.
Btw, just to plug the radar detector...I love it. The
thing falses alot on Ka band, but I have yet to find
a real Ka source. Usually, other cars with radar
detectors set off the Ka. But the voltage meter is
a really nice (undocumented) feature. The laser
detector saved my butt last weekend while driving
through Albany, NY. In fact, that was the first time
the laser detector went off...scared the crap outta me!
Josh
'97 Eclipse GSX
'97 Bel 855Sti
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 12:22:23 -0800
Subject: Starion/Conquest Intercooler answers
Message-ID: <#4>
Hey all, I finally got my hands on a Starion/Conquest Intercooler.
First, they are not all the same. From what I understand, the first two
years had no intercooler, the next couple years they did, but it was
smaller. The intercooler you want is from an 88 or 89 model year
Starion/Conquest turbo.
Size differences:
I have a 2g, and didn't have a stock 1g to compare to at the time.
The stock 2g intercooler has 15 air vanes, and each about 9" in length.
Each vane is 3" wide.
The StarQuest ic has 14 air vanes, and each is about 18" in length. Each
vane is also 3" wide.
Okay, being that the StarQuest is about twice as long, it "theoretically"
has more cooling capability.
The number of vanes determines pressure drop/loss or whatever. BUT, the
StarQuest vanes are actually bigger than the stock 2g. The StarQuest vanes
are about 5/16" wide, whereas the stock are probably 3/16". Therefore I
believe more air will flow through the StarQuest than can be flowed through
the stock 2g. And with the added cooling distance it will make a better IC.
PIPING IS AN ISSUE:
The stock 2g has 2" piping, whereas the StarQuest only has 1.75" I plan on
cutting the ends off and replacing with 2.0" or 2.25" connectors on both
sides. I am also considering running from the StarQuest into the stock IC
if I run 2" inlets on it.
Anyone have EXACT flow rates on either intercooler?
Thanks,
Brett
P.S. If anyone knows the engineer at Mitsu or Chrysler that designed the
motor/tranny location on the 2g cars, please give them a FIRM KICK IN THE
TAIL for an absolutely HORRIBLE job of parts location. After doing my own
transmission, and now timing belt and water pump, I must say this was
complete incompetence. EVEN I could do a better job of parts location in
these cars, and I am just a Computer Nerd!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:22:35 -0800
From: "Donald Spring" <[email protected]>
Subject: stumble....Please help
Message-ID: <#5>
Well, my car has developed a slight (maybe not so slight) stumble. It
only occurs when I'm barely on the throttle and sometimes at idle. The car
runs fine if I give it a little gas but if I'm just barely giving it
throttle, like when cruising, it stumbles every 5-10 sec. It happens in
any gear and even in cruise control. I recently changed the oil and added
some Engine compression restorer ( don't laugh, it was cheap and I thought
I'd give it a try) and also some stuff for noisy lifters. Both were added
to the crankcase with the oil. I have a '94 Eclipse 2.0 L nt with no mods
except the silencer in the intake removed and the air can off with the
filter clamped to the base. It seems like it started around the time I
changed the oil. Now I have an excuse to go get new plug wires and plugs,
although if this were the prob wouldn't the stumble be at high rpm's where
spark and fuel requirements are greater? I know this is probably
impossible to diagnose since it could have so may causes, but any help
would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Jason Spring
'94 Eclipse GS
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 14:26:11 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Sarcasm?!?
Message-ID: <#6>
>but it didn't matter since I pulled three
>car lengths ahead before having to stomp on the binders to avoid pulling a
>"Hank" and hitting the Mustang in the lane ahead of me.
*RUF picks his bottom jaw up off the ground*
Mario, Porsche killer, whatever I should call you, what did you mean by
that statement? How am I supposed to look at that? Anger, Hatred,
Sadness? I didn't like it, nonetheless. Hope not too many other people
felt it was a laughing matter either.
RUFRIDR "HANK" Bell
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 7 Jan 1998 15:09:25 -0600
From: Todd Girvin <[email protected]>
Subject: RE:FW: 1990 Eagle Talon shimmy - Help
Message-ID: <#7>
>Ever since I bought my car last year
>I get a vibration between 60-80 mph, That comes and goes.
I had a shimmy for a long time. It turned out to be warped rotors.
Apparently they were bad enough to cause a slight shimmy while driving
and eventually uneven tire wear. Warped brake rotors can be caused by
parking a car with hot brakes and by tightening lugs unevenly or too
much (e.g. with an impact wrench like a lot of services places use).
It's easy and inexpensive to pull your rotors and get them
checked/machined. It only takes a few minutes for a clerk at Chief,
Hi/Lo, etc. to machine one.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 15:57:03 -0500
Subject: 3G at Detroit Auto Show
Message-ID: <#8>
Not to disappoint anyone, but I checked out the DADA
International Auto Show web site and the only mention
of the Eclipse is the '98 Spyder that Mitsubishi
had at their booth.
Detroit News might have mistaken this for the '99.
The DADA website is:
http://www.dadanet.com/naiashome.html
Sorry about the double post.
Josh
'97 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 7 Jan 1998 17:09:43 -0500
From: "Wayne Gucwa" <[email protected]>
Subject: WTB: OEM Alloy rim for "90 Eagle Talon AWD
Message-ID: <#10>
Hi all:
Since so many of you have upgraded your rims
for racing, perhaps one of the members of the
list would be willing to sell 1-2 alloy rims for
my 1990 Eagle Talon AWD.
Thanks to NJ road department, I've managed to
completely mangle my left front, and may want
one for good measure.
Please e-mail at [email protected]
Thanks!
Wayne Gucwa
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 18:02:47 -0500
From: Michael Bryant <[email protected]>
Subject: 94 tranny
Message-ID: <#11>
Howdy all,
RTP is needed... I am planning on going with a 94 trany in my 90 GSX. I
need to know a few things from anyone who has done this:
1) Are they THAT much better than the 90 trannies? My shifting SUCKS
2) Did you go with another transfer case? Or change output shafts? I've
heard that a) the shafts can be changed to allow the early transfer case to
be used, and b) they are not interchangeable.
Thanks! I'd hate to have to buy another transfer case, but if I have to I
guess I have to.
Mainly looking for some feedback on the overall tranny, if its worth going
with, or just sticking with an early model tranny and keeping my transfer
case.
Thanks all,
Later
MikeB.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 19:21:50 -0500
Subject: timing help
Message-ID: <#13>
I'm trying to check my timing but unfortunetly I don't know what the
marks on the scale above the crackshaft pulley represent. The indent on
my crankshaft is near the last mark on the bottom (found using the
timing light, of course). Would my reading depect something BTDC (and
how many degrees is it if its the last mark) and how does this relate to
the timing being either advanced or retarded?
Any help would really be appreciated. (And thanks to Delta and Fast on
IRC for the suggestions)
Thanks,
Sean'91TalonTSi/AWD aka Talon4x4 on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 19:36:12 EST
Subject: RE:War Stories
Message-ID: <#14>
Gee I should have guessed a war story on a 944 would bring Farzaan out the
woodwork. But since I respect him and all the pioneering work he's done on
DSM
suspension I won't take his post as a personal flame. But I hope he didn't my
post too personal. After all, being a former DSM owner he should know how
good
it feels to race a prestigous nameplate like Porsche, or Surpa TT, or NSX.
Unfortunately down here in Florida most Porsche owners are of the mature
wellto-do kind. And most of our Canadians drive motorhomes and Cadillacs. But I
have had the opportunity to race 3 Porsche's in the past year, and I don't
need to explain to you guys the feeling of beating a sportscar costing many
times your own.
Well till the next war story...
Mario
Still the Porsche Killer
90 Talon TSI AWD 112k
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:02:54 EST
Subject: caliper painting
Message-ID: <#15>
I have painted my calipers twice. The first time using a high temp paint available at Sears, Wal-Mart, etc. This worked fine - the paint did not get
soft or chip.
The second time I had them bead blasted and painted by a local independant
shop with some sort of high temp caliper paint. This looked even better than
my first try.
Painting calipers is fine if you only use the car on the street. Random brake
dust hoses off the wheels/calipers and they look fine. However if you run on
any road courses where your brakes REALLY heat up you'll find that the brake
dust actually melts to the outside surfaces of the front calipers, completely
covering the caliper. You end up with neatly painted rear calipers and
blackish gray front calipers. This has happened to me using a number of
different types of pads...(Metal Matrix, Porterfield, etc.) at Road America
and Michigan International. I've tried wire brushes and nothing will remove
the baked on dust.
Scott
'95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 17:07:54 -0800
Subject: 20G for sale.
Message-ID: <#16>
I have a TD06/05 20G for sale. I bought it with less than 3000 miles on it,
and it comes with the pipings for the installation on a 1st gen. I never
put it on my Galant.
$775 + shipping.
thanks,
Fred Jin
91 Galant VR4
#116/2000
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 19:09:52 -0600
From: DEVLISH <[email protected]>
Subject: crazy alignment
Message-ID: <#17>
Due to the icy weather here in Wisconsin, I slid my '93 Laser into a curb
today, at about 35mph. I noticed the car wasn't driving normal and
immediately took it in for an alignment. When I picked it up, the shop told
me that there is no adjustment available for the front camber, and nothing
adjustable for the back toe/camber at all! he said it rides fine, and the
front end is all within specs, but the back is way off, but he has no way of
changing it. Has anyone heard of this? also, he said it could have to do
with the suspension (shocks sagging?), or some stressed metal parts. Any
ideas on how I can help this problem? or if the shcok theory seems legit?
(His suggestion of shocks seemed strange to me, but hey, if it does the
trick...)
thanx,
kurt check
'93 Laser 2.0
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 20:11:45 +0000
From: Dave Mertz <[email protected]>
Subject: Incorrect Boost Indication
Message-ID: <#18>
>For instance, if I put it in third the stock boost guage pegs itself,
>while I'm only showing 4-5lbs of boost! What is up with that?
I've had the same thing happen on my '95 Talon TSi AWD. Pretty weird.
On mine it's only happened a few times, and only just before the car
is fully warmed up. At the time, I didn't have a mechanical boost gauge,
but I did see the in-dash gauge peg. I certainly didn't have the
throttle open enough to get that much boost.
The value displayed on the in-dash boost gauge is derived from air
volume per rev (at least in the '95 code) with corrections applied based
on various other inputs such as barometric pressure, intake temperature,
coolant temperature, etc. It seems that one of these inputs must be
providing a bogus value or else there is a bug in the code that is
triggered by a certain combination of sensor values. The same values
are used to determine the air flow used in the injector duty cycle
calculation. This means that the car must be running very rich under
these conditions since the amount of fuel injected is based on more air
than is actually entering the engine. This explains the lack of power
and the power increase when you let off the gas. It would be
interesting to note the indication on an air/fuel ratio gauge when this
happens. Assuming this explanation is correct, I would expect to see
the a/f gauge indicating full rich.
Dave Mertz, '95 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 20:21:32 -0500
Subject: GVR4 Wheels & Tires For Sale
Message-ID: <#19>
I traded my GVR4 but I kept a LIKE NEW set of wheels and tires. They
wheels are 16" OZ Mito 5 stars and the tires are Dunlop D40M2s. They
are absolutely immaculate with less than 1000 miles on them. They come
complete with center caps, lug nuts and locks. I paid over $1600 but
will let them go for $950. If you have a GVR4 and are looking for a
beautiful set of wheels, they are for you. Not to mention the
improvement in handling and performance.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 20:08:43 -0600
From: "Christopher Schaffer" <[email protected]>
Subject: Balance eliminator kit questions
Message-ID: <#20>
[RTP]
To anyone who has done the balance shaft eliminator kit with the motor in
the vehicle. Can you respond to me on how hard it was to do. Also, how is
engine vibration with the kit and not getting engine balanced? How long did
it take you? Any tips to ease my pain? Thank you in advance!
Chris Schaffer
91 Talon AWD
90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 21:18:41 -0500
From: "beavis" <[email protected]>
Subject: power loss solved!!!!
Message-ID: <#21>
Yipee YaHOOOoooo!
I finally found the solution to my 'mushing' power loss under boost! MANY
MANY thanks to everyone who wrote me. Everyone agreed that it almost
certainly sounded like a boost leak... somewhere between the turbo outlet
and TB. I had checked the hoses, connections, and visually inspected the
IC, three times, but since nothing else was working, I decided that
everyone could not be wrong. I ripped everything out tonight, checked every
hose (cleaned em all too), every clamp, tested the BOV, looked for cracks
in the TB elbow, turbo elbow, and BOV pipe. Nothing... So I pulled the IC
itself, and BINGO. All around the upper pipe, under the hose clamp/hose the
pipe was corroded. The corrosion was all the way through in little 'spots'.
About 10 little 1/8" perforations, but the rest of the aluminum was fine
and solid. (I guess aluminum corrodes differently than steel - it was 99%
fine, only the little holes themselves were corroded)
So, I cleaned it up with a wire brush and emery cloth, then got out the JB
weld, and smeared some in a 1/16" thick collar all the way around the IC
pipe. Once it hardened, it looked better than new. I reassembled it all,
and took her for a drive. WOW. Thats all I have to say. I now have full
boost for the 1st time since I bought the car. How do I know? The stock
boost guage (even with stock boost controls) used to max out at 14psi under
WOT. Now it is much more accurate, only off by maybe 1psi average. Stock
boost shows 11psi, and my aftermarket guage shows 10.5 at WOT with the
MBC
all the way down. Ohhh, I can't wait to turn it up tommorrow. (figure I'll
give the JB weld overnight to cure all the way)
I wonder how many 90,91,92 etc. TELs are running with little holes slowly
getting bigger under that hose... If your boost controls are stock, and
your stock guage pegs out under WOT, I would check it out... Especially up
here in salt country... Only takes an hour to fix.
Thanks again, next time I will ASK before I go an buy some sensor...
Jeff Brinkerhoff
91 TSi (kickin a$$ now!)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 20:35:54 -0600
Subject: talon back, finally
Message-ID: <#22>
Hello all,
I finally got my Talon back from the deer accident a couple months ago.
Thank god for insurance! The deer succeeded in screwing my car up pretty
good. It had slammed down on my hood and destroyed both cam gears, 8
exaust valves, 2 intake valves, bent the radiator supports, and a couple
other minor details. In all, the total engine work was about $1700 and
then the body work to peplace the hood and windshield and paint the
front end was almost $2000. Since it had crappy body work and paint done
to it before I had it I went ahead and had all the gray panels repainted
and the mirrors repainted since the flat black was being destroyed by
the sun. I paid $1300 for the rest of the paint work and my deductible
was only $100.
Wow! It looks 100% better. Not that it looked bad before, but it was
peeling in areas and I couldn't stand it. Too bad it's tough to keep it
clean with all the salt and sand on the roads. It also seems to perform
a little better now. It feels like it's holding boost better on the top
end and coming on quicker as I shift.
So maybe that stupid deer was a "blessing in disguise". That sounds
stupid but I can't think of another way to say it.
Now that I shelled out $1400 bucks I have to stay away from buying more
performance parts, damn it;-( Stupid deer!
Oh well, I still have the 3 inch downpipe and test pipe to put on:-)
C-ya,
Spoolin'
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 19:06:15 -0800
Subject: drove to work today...
Message-ID: <#23>
and the coolant hose between the thermostat housing and throttle body
split. And the day before, my windshield cracked AGAIN after a hard
launch/1-2 shift. I think the cold Canadian weather plus the body flex
from drag racing is too much for the glass.
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 07 Jan 1998 20:43:03 -0800
From: ATL Computer Services <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Battery connections, Stereo hookup, Adam Wang
Message-ID: <#24>
>If anyone named
>Adam Wang, Derek Wang, (I don't know all of his alias's)from Saratoga
>tries to buy anything from you DON'T FALL FOR IT! I don't want to see any
>more digest members or trustworthy shops being ripped off by him!
Just a little clarification, the Derek Wang up there should not be confused
with Derek Wang in Washington state. The Derek runs the NorthWest DSM
pages (www.nw.dsm.org) and recently sold some wheels on the digest (buyer
got one heck of a deal by the way).
Just wanted to make sure nobody gets the "good" Derek Wang confused with
some "scum sucking looser" Derek Wang because they didn't pay close enough
attention to the state.
Aaron T. Larson -MitGSX97 on irc
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 22:41:39 -0600
Subject: which leak?
Message-ID: <#25>
Hey all...and especially Todd
>Again, I recommend to everyone to check the links from the HOWTO and FAQ
>section of the website to determine whether or not your center diff is
>leaking.
Center diff leak? You need some sleep Todd. For those of you who missed
it the center diff CAN'T leak, it's internal to the tranny. It's the
transfer case that leaks.
[Yes, apparently, I do. -talon mgr]
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 23:15:22 -0600
From: Mike Cone <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: PMS vs VPC
Message-ID: <#26>
You are definitely right Brett when you say that Extreme is the quickest for
the time being, but you can be sure that they are not running the same version
of the PMS that you are. Doug Wallace will even tell you that.
Dave
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 00:21:58 +0000
From: Andrew V <[email protected]>
Subject: Panic Button for '95 Talon Tsi AWD
Message-ID: <#27>
I recently had to replace the remote control door opener for my '95
Eagle Talon tsi awd. Not at all cheap.
The remote for the 95 has two buttons: to open the driver door, click
once. passenger door, click twice. Then there is the lock/arm button.
When an alarm is set off (e.g. someone tries to break in) there is the
usual horn and flashing of head/tail lights.
But I have often wondered what would happen if someone tried to get YOU
before you get into your car. There is no "panic" button on the present
remote.
I was wondering and the dealer did not seem to know, can one use
(program) the new remote control (for 96--97 talon's) that has a panic
button feature on it so that it works with the '95 model of Talon.
Before I left the dealership, the parts manager had to "program" my
replacement remote to open my car door. There was no extra charge for
this.
I think I paid around $60 for the new remote.
Thanks.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 00:35:09 -0500
From: "Damian Sigman" <[email protected]>
Subject: Shootout'98 Website
Message-ID: <#28>
Just thought I'd let everyone that know that I will be building the Shootout
website again this year... I will be putting up all the Official Info up as I
get it directly from DaveB. I have started some of the initial development on
the site, and should have something to announce in several weeks (approx
March
1st).
While I think much of the content will resemble last years site (facts don't
change), I have quite a few ideas for ways to improve the "look" of the
overall site. Bob Thompson (original author of the www.on.dsm.org site) has
agreed to help with some of the graphics and assorted pieces, so I think
you'll all like what you see! If you'd like to offer suggestions regarding
the design or content of this year's site, drop me a line...
Damian Sigman
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 00:41:20 -0400
From: KiLJoY <[email protected]>
Subject: Clutchmasters Kevlar Clutch
Message-ID: <#29>
Hi everyone.
My clutch has been slipping at WOT for the last few months now. It only
slips at WOT on cold days, though. I guess 67k on a stock clutch isn't
so bad. My car has about 230hp.
So, I am in the market for a new clutch. I looked at the CFDF, which I
can actually get for the low price of $340, including throwout bearing,
but from what I have heard, it doesn't last so long. I also looked at
the ACT, but I don't really know much about it, so I don't feel
comfortable buying it. I am interested in the Clutchmasters kevlar
because I have heard good things about it, and because it is kevlar,
which lasts long and slips a little (= no broken tranny).
Encourage me if I'm doing the right thing, enlighten me if I'm not. I
especially want to hear from people who have any kind of Clutchmasters
clutch, or who have dealt with Clutchmasters. [RTP] if it is very
specific, otherwise post to the digest since people seem to ask about
clutch stuff almost every other day, and we could use some answers for
the digest (trust me, I searched it).
Thanks.
Augie Petrillo
91 White TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 00:03:44 -0600
From: Grant Fritts <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Shindley's PMS post and response
Message-ID: <#30>
Uhhhhh...Did you really expect no one to respond to your post? So what
if you like the VPC over the PMS. The VPC didn't do a thing for me .
All it was good for was keeping fuel cut away and idling like a top fuel
dragster; I ran comparable high 12 passes with no fuel computer at all!
So far, I like the PMS...but guess what, no one on this list really
cares.
Regardless of any technical issue or shortcomings from either camp, I
must admit...I would much rather spend a little more for a product
built and designed by someone here in the U.S that I can call directly
or email with questions, than spend almost as much for an overpriced
product from a foreign company that can't even write installation
instructions in English!
You make a blantantly slanted post about the PMS, with no value to it,
and then get defensive and even more antagonistic and sarcastic about
the subject when other people defend it! The post and your most recent
response pose no significant value to anyone...but then again, neither
does the one I'm writing now. Good day.
Grant C. Fritts
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 01:09:50 -0500
From: GRNMACH <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: 16g gourp purchase
Message-ID: <#31>
>I drove my friend's 94 group supra with an air filter and a profec set to 18
>psi. I must say I have never driven a car with so much high rpm pull.
Paul,
Wait till you install that 16g, that you have been working so hard to get.
At 21 psi on your DSM, you just might reconsider that statement :).
Leon
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 01:29:22 -0500
Subject: WANG
Message-ID: <#32>
>I just read Doug Derby's post about Adam Wang. A friend of mine almost
>got ripped off by him on a set of perfect Sparco NTs for $1700. We
Obviously this $cumbag is ripping off as many people on the digest as he
can as many times as he can. It seems he does not live at the address
he's having stuff shipped to. Wouldnt it be nice if the next person who
is contacted by this Wang a$$hole posts to the digest after agreeing
exactly what day the merchandise is to arrive, and some local Digest members
are there waiting to see exactly who appears to meet UPS and have a little
discussion with this pr!ck on what digest members think about criminals
ripping off honest people.
Are there any members local to Saratoga that can assist us?
I'm not saying he gets beaten to a pulp (although thats what I was thinking
when I started typing, and still think he deserves) but we can have the
authorities discuss mail fraud with him. Although beating, stripping, covering
in horse crap, destroying his car, and dumping him over the Mexican border
seem like excellent options.
PS: My take on Eagle closing: One word: PREMIER. Worst car ever made. They
spent twice as much on warranty work than on sales.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 22:06:41 -0000
Subject: 18G News + Many Questions, Need of Turbo Timer?
Message-ID: <#33>
Hello Everybody,
For those who were following my postings: I will be in LA at RRE on Saturday
to install my GReddy Turbo Kit.
I don't think I told anyone, but my car was in stereo shop for like 3 month.
Now I have a good system, and I am going to compete, so WATCH OUT
LOWRIDERS!
Since I didn't drive the car for that long, I forgot... no, not how to drive,
but other little things. First of all, are the widows up/down, windows lock
and lock buttons supposed to light up when you turn on you light? My
antifreeze light is keep coming light up all the time, why is that there are
enoght liquid there? When I press the accel. pedal, I hear a very loud "click"
sound from the transmission area, why is that? ( 2G, FWD, AT, T). If anyone
has the answers to these questions, please reply.
I have a GReddy ( heh, of course GReddy) Turbo Timer, and I could figure out
how to make it work with my CODE ALARM alarm system. But, I also have a
reemote start installed. I found out, that I don't even really need a Turbo
Timer, cuz that waht you can do:
1: The car is running
2:
3:
4:
5:
6:
Press Remote Start Button
Take out the key from ignition
The car is still running
I can arm it with no problems
After 5 min the engine turn off automaticly.
Alexander
X-t on IRC
Yellow 95 Eclipse GS-T AT
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 01:29:08 -0500
From: GRNMACH <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Transfer case, viscous coupling
Message-ID: <#34>
>SATAN says "It's probably the center diff." Estimate $1500. Ouch!
Center diff. will NOT cause rear wheels to lock up. What it will do,
is it will turn your AWD car into 4WD. I was able to drive for two days
after busting center diff. at a drag strip. And it breaks under extreme
conditions, usually during launch and almost never pass 2ng gear.
>Again, I recommend to everyone to check the links from the HOWTO
>and FAQ section of the website to determine whether or not your
>center diff is leaking.
Good point Todd. This is a typical Transfer case lockup. It is
fortunate that no one got hurt (other then Eric's wallet :). Eric, please
do us all favor and report this incident to NTSB. The more people
do it, the higher the likelihood that they get involved.
BTW I have now sealed the yoke from both ends, to no avail. It still
leaks. I guess Dave B. was right, the only sure way to stop that
leak is to weld it.
Later,
Leon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 22:40:23 -0800
Subject: cracked brake rotors
Message-ID: <#35>
I have Stillen sport rotors (cross drilled) on my 1g 93 awd. When I recently
replaced the pads. I noticed some very small cracks radiating out from the
cross drilled holes. Thinking that they were just superficial surface cracks
(common on friction surfaces I've been told), I went ahead and finished up the
job. Today, coming home from work, got on the brakes a little hard from around
105mph for a stop sign. The pedal was pulsing, the steering wheel shaking,
like typical warped rotors. I say to myself "self, that's got to be the
fastest warping I've ever experienced. At home I did a quick inspection and
was very surprised to find that I now have a crack over an inch long radiating
out to the edge of the rotor. Now it's a garage queen until I get some new
rotors. Anyone with similar experiences or alternate choice of new rotors.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 23:20:45 -0800
From: Intrepid Traveller/Lunatic Labs <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <#36>
>My 97 TSi AWD was sold to me, as having a starter cut-out, hooked into the
>alarm. Now, not that I believe all car sales people, but I looked in the
>manual last night and low and behold, in the starter circuit, there in black
>and white, is an alarm cut-out relay, tied into the starter circuit.
Well, for whatever it's worth, whatever the service manual says, at least
on my 97 Eclipse GSX, it ain't true. There aibn't no starter cut-out. My
alarm kept going off, and I just drove the car away to not annoy my
neighbors...
Tom K.
1997 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 08 Jan 1998 02:35:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Brake painting.
Message-ID: <#37>
I have used Plastikote's "HOT PAINT" on my Exhaust Manifold Shield. It
come in red, orange, black, white, aluminum, and blue. I have been asked
so many times what the colors look like. I scanned the color sheet and
have it on my web site.
http://www.trix.com/cgray/images/hotpaint.jpg
I also have a pict of the heat sheild with the red HOT PAINT at:
http://www.trix.com/cgray/images/engine.jpg
So far the Red HOT PAINT has held up VERY well on my heat shield. So it
should stand up very well on rotors. The paint is rated for 1500f. There
are only two problems that may occur. The paint has a tooth to it. So it
may collect the brake dust. The other problem may be if you use brake dust
cleaner on your wheels, the cleaner may dissolve the paint. Both of these
concerns are not tested so I have no idea if they hold true.
One solution to the dust build up on the paint is to take a buffing wheel,
and remove the tooth on the paint.
Plastikote also sells a HUGE selection of Engine paint (500f). You can
find the color chart at:
http://www.trix.com/cgray/images/ENGINE%20ENAMEL.JPG
The only affiliation I have with plastikote is I take the pictures of their
product for their advertisements.
Happy Painting
Chad Gray
IRC: Cable
'91 Talon Tsi FWD
'91 Talon Tsi AWD
http://www.trix.com/cgray/talon
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 01:38:22 -0800
From: "Dean!" <[email protected]>
Subject: Crankshaft Pulley
Message-ID: <#38>
>All the talk about underdrive pulleys and several recent posts
>about damper failure finally convinced me to change out the
>damper on my car. The old one had come cracks in the rubber.
>Was it ready to fail? Don't know.
I'm gonna "assume" all of these words all refer to the same thing:
crankshaft pulley = harmonic balancer = harmonic damper = damper pulley?
If so, I had a 91 Talon AWD that had its "crankshaft" pulley replaced at
58k miles and a 91 Eclipse GSX that had its "crankshaft" pulley replaced
at 75K miles. Both cases the pulley separated in complete two, the
rubber separator was no more.
If any of your accessory belts is ever "thrown" off, suspect the
"harmonic damper balancer crankshaft pulley" . (and then cross your
fingers it doesn't cutup the timing belt cover, and cause a ruckus!)
Dean
91 Eclipse GSX - New crankshaft pulley at 75k miles
91 Talon AWD - New crankshaft pulley at 58k miles
P.S. I reckon they could be remachined for cheap? Is it worth it?
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 01:53:02 -0800
From: "Dean!" <[email protected]>
Subject: trailer it?
Message-ID: <#39>
Re: How to go 40 miles with a badly smoking car
How about a buddy with a trailer? And then buy 'em lunch? ;)
People with trailers are a plenty down here, and everyone knows someone
who drives a truck (though this is Texas country) :) I had a female
friend in a huge Ford F-250 Turbo Diesel trailer my car 90 miles; she
said it was easier than pulling her horses. (Only in Texas...)
Dean 91 GZX w/300ZX wheels, still not photographed :(
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 21:56:27 -0500
From: animal <[email protected]>
Subject: Spoilers
Message-ID: <#40>
>The 2G Talon's spoiler looks like it does a better job of "spoiling"
>the air than the 2G Eclipse's wing, which appears to be entirely
>cosemetic. Not that the Talon's spoiler probably gives much effect
>either.
Agree. Both the Eclipse and Talon spoilers are there to attract
prospective car buyers, and no more.
Animal
BSME 1984, Hawaii
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 22:12:37 -0500
Subject: Kill/Save Talon, Eagle Marketing
Message-ID: <#41>
Eagle's marketing strategy has little to do with the success/failure of the
Talon. It's the ignorance of the average American car buyer that has sealed
its fate. "Eagle" sounds domestic, and "Mitsubishi" sounds like an import
car from Japan. Boy, are we pathetic or what?
Animal
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Thu, 8 Jan 1998 04:22:42 EST
Sdjewett <[email protected]>
Subject: re:Adam Wang
Message-ID: <#42>
whooooa!
Jess, I'm sure you guys have a legit gripe with ADAM Wang but don't go making
up alias's...someone innocent could get hurt!
I know the GREAT person of Derek Wang from the northwest, I just bought rims
and tires from him, and he will bend over backwards to help someone! After
all, HE runs the NW-DSM list! I'm sure Derek (and others who know him) are
typing to the digest just as I am right now!
Lets make sure we keep the names straight (to protect the innocent) before we
start blacklisting people in public. :o)
Later,
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 07:46:54 -0500
Subject: Amsoil/Amway
Message-ID: <#43>
>Is Amsoil the new
>Amway for the new millennium?
Actually, the two of them have been around just about the same length of
time, Amsoil being the lessor. :)
You get a few zealous people in both, but I must admit, that the Amsoil
products for the most part (the synthetic lubricants in particular) do what
they claim and more, and are top-notch. Had an old v-6 that ran so hot (due
to poor GM design) that it would smoke up any other oil, except the Amsoil
10W-30.
We also have run it 100:1 in all of our snowmobiles, outboard motors, etc,
for years and years. Runs clean and smooth.
We (my parent's company) are a retailer of the products, but to be honest,
only so that we can conveniently buy it at cost. :)
Andrew - 97 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:04:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Air Filter Problems...
Message-ID: <#44>
I read about a different way to modify the Air can for the cars on a
Conquest/Starion web page. Instead of removing the air can or chopping
it all to hell you can use some graph paper and lay out a grid on the
stock can and drill a metric-butt-tonn of holes in the can.
I don't know how much this would improve air flow, but for all the guys
who complain about a chopped can giving air flow that is to turbulent
and causes idle problems this is a possible solution.
Later,
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:04:43 -0500
From: "Dave Larsen" <[email protected]>
Subject: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Message-ID: <#46>
I have noticed that when I'm driving on slippery roads that my 92 AWD will get
VERY unstable. Admittedly, it is time for new rear tires, but...
It seems as though the rear end is just sort of floating along behind me and it
gets sort of twitchy. The twitches happen between .5 sec. up to a few seconds.
The twitch is sort of like the rear end moving to the right a little bit (it
feels like you are in imminent danger of loosing control). This has happened in
heavy rain (probably hydroplaning?) and on snowy and icy roads. Road
conditions were what I'd consider bad at the time. It is a VERY scary
experience
and I have to slow down to < 40-50 mph or even less. I have only noticed this
behavior in the past year. Again, the tread on the rears is not too good.
Is it possible that the computers that control the AWD are engaging and
disengaging the rears when it might not be a good idea?
Has anyone else noticed this sort of thing?
Dave Larsen
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:47:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Boost Pressure
Message-ID: <#47>
Just CC'd this back to the digest, because I thought more could benefit from
the knowledge Mike shares here with me. :)
Turbo Mike Said...
>What you're seeing is boost spike. When floor the car at low RPM the
>boost will come up for a second (usually like 12-13 psi) at around 3k RPM
>then settle at 10-11psi (stock setting) and hold that till max RPM. If you're
>cruising (foot off gas) at high rpm (say 5k rpm) and floor it you'll get
>a much bigger spike (sometimes 15psi on a stock car) but it should settle to
>11psi soon.
Hmmmmm... ok, well that's sort of what I have, but it doesn't really spike,
it peaks, and then slowly fades off. Depending on the gear, the peak is
16.5 or 17psi. It seems to be RPM relational, which makes some sense I
guess. They tune down the boost, as your RPM goes up, because the RPM can
cover the HP on the top end...
>Now, this is the way MOST stock cars SHOULD perform. Every car comes off
the
>factory floor behaving a little different. The ECU flickers the
>signal to the boost solenoid between 2.5k RPM and 3.5k RPM to prevent
>boost spike, but if you're already over 4k RPM it wont and you get a much
>bigger spike. Dont worry about a short boost spike. When people say DONT
>run over 15psi without a fuel pump, they're talking about holding the boost
>at that level.
Ok, so they're talking about holding it steady at 15psi, by using a boost
controller, as opposed to having the computer back off the boost as the RPMs
climb. Gotcha.
>The small Garret turbo wont hold much more than 16-17psi over 5k rpm
simply
>because the wheels are too small to generate that kinda boost, and the 2G
BOV
>usually will leak over 13psi anyway. So if you're HOLDING 16-17psi of boost
>and your entire setup (boost control, BOV, boost soleniod, no porting, stock
>intake exhaust) is factory, then you've got the fastest DSM to come out of the
>factory.
:)
Well, yes and no... like I said there's a slow drop as the RPMs go up,
completely relational. But I'm also not a totally stock 97 TSi AWD. K&N
FIPK, 1G BOV, UpperIC, boost solendoid restrictor removed... so those
factors could be contributing as well I suppose. :)
>PS: a GOOD, QUALITY boost control (like the electronic PMS or manual
Hallman
>controllers) will have very little boost spike and very little boost fade.
>IE: it'll go to the boost its set at without going over much, and once it gets
>there it'll stay there to max RPM (note the Garrett might not be able to keep
up
>with it)
PERFECT! That is the precise answer I have been looking for, but no one
seems to have said anywhere. I am now in possession of a new Hallman, I
just have yet to install it. I just wanted to understand first what was
going on, and what to expect. :)
Thanks!
Andrew - 97 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Thu, 08 Jan 1998 10:19:53 -0500
Eric Simpson <[email protected]>
Subject: OH plate AWD GSX
Message-ID: <#48>
Looking for a 97 or 98 Silver GSX I saw on Wednesday, Jan 7
driving on I-75 in Northern KY with an OH plate AWD GSX. You
passed me north of Erlanger, we rode until Ft Wright where I
got off. I was in a black 98 GSX with temp tags. I'd like
to know what headlights and foglights you had.
Eric Simpson
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 10:24:37 -0500
Subject: 16G and my sputtering solved!
Message-ID: <#49>
I posted a few days ago about a sputtering problem that
I noticed after installing my 16G, manifold, ported o2, etc.
Dave B suggested that it may be mini-fuel cuts occuring
at high RPM which differ from the big fuel cut that
I used to get around 3500rpm with my 14B. With the
14B I was getting a 20lb midrange pressure surge. The
16G of course doesn't build a huge amount of boost at
lower RPM, plus it's wastegate seems to control boost better.
(e.g. I set the boost to 17lbs and it stays there. The
14B used to jump to 20lbs and then settle down to 16lbs as
the RPM climbed)
I installed new plug wires (Accel) since my NGKs were
2 years old and new plugs. The electrode on the old
plugs were a nice light brown (this seems correct RTP
if it isn't)
The second thing that I did was remove the lower
honeycomb from the MAF and back out that big screw
on the bottom (I backed it all the way out - also RTP
if this is a bad thing)
I also performed a compression test just to be safe and
got 160-155-150-155 hot. No problems here!
The result? The cars revs revs revs. Pulls strong
and hard all the way to 7000rpm. Very smooth power
deilvery the whole way and powerful. I obtained
the following G-Tech results during testing last night:
The first 0-60 run I got a *PERFECT* four wheel spinning
launch, ran to 7000rpm and *MISSED* the second gear shift!
Get this, I missed 2nd, had to push in the clutch get
back in the boost and netted a 0-60 time of 5.00 flat. 5
seconds to 60 MISSING a shift!
The second run I did everything a little better and
netted a 0-60 result of 4.6sec
The 16G w the lower honeycomb removed makes
the coolest shreak on boost. I love it.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 09:27:36 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Porsche War Story!
Message-ID: <#50>
Hey all,
On the way home from work, I ran across a Porsche
911 Turbo. My hair stood up! I jumped behind him
at the toll booth and waited. I was thinking,
"Ah, this gray haired dude won't be in for some
fun." But he punched it from the booth.
I tossed my change over my shoulder and took off after him.
I'm thinking, "Darn, and I haven't installed my
16G yet." Oh well, I cranked the Profec to
17 and went for it.
He waived through some cars but I was
all over his butt. Sure, he stepped into it,
but had he downshifted a couple of gears,
he should've cleaned my clock. I figured that
he didn't want to pound his beautiful car
over the head.
Interesting thing about my AT turbo tho,
I was manually shifting the AT. In third
gear, with the boost set to 17, I held 13 all
the way to the redline. It should have dropped
to 10 or so. Weird...
Anyway, we hauled up to 130. Finally, just for grins,
I went around the side of him. Side by side, we both
looked at each other and smiled.
He gave me the nod of respect and we parted ways.
It's cool that a Porsche guy gave me props. Usually,
the Corvette types get all ticked off. That's usually
right after you kick that a$$!
Can't wait for my 16G! Saturday...
Warren
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 10:33:35 -0500
From: "Gary Gill" <[email protected]>
Subject: 1g, new email address
Message-ID: <#51>
I posted yesterday about the paint code, door handle, and leather
seat covers for the blue '91 talon. If anyone tried to reply
to [email protected] that account is no longer active. My
new email address is [email protected]. Thanks!
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Thu, 8 Jan 1998 08:39:25 -0700
guillermo_polo <[email protected]>
Subject: Tucson Race info.
Message-ID: <#52>
This information came courtesy of Pete Sterling in Tucson, Thanks Pete!
Yeah. On Saturday the 10th, they're having World Championship Front
engine pro nitro top fuel - 7.50 index(whatever that means), Harley
Davidson something, and 6 Gambler brackets($40 entry). It's located on
Houghton Rd. @ the Pima Co. Fairgrounds - 1 mile south of I-10 off of
exit 275. Tickets are $20 and gates open at 8am. Their # is (520)
792-3930.
The import class deal was setup by a local shop. I should be getting down
there with a number of other imports hopefully by 8 AM. If you are just an
spectator you pay $8.
Later,
Guilly
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:24:50 -0500
From: [email protected] (Mad Mark the Code Warrior)
Subject: New Car Pricing in Cyberspace
Message-ID: <#53>
Try WWW.AUTOBYTEL.COM or WWW.CABLECARS.COM... there are other
services
out there as well. I think the dealer pays them a commision if the car is
purchased as a result of your contract through their web service.
FRom these web sites, you can link to Edmunds and other car price guides,
get the exact dealer costs, then return, configure your car and get a
price quote sent to you from 'local dealers' for the exact car. They
know that that you know how much they paid for the car, that you're not
naive and that other dealerships are competing with them in the bidding.
This saves you a lot of time dealing with really stupid salesmen who
don't understand when you tell them that you want a car for cost + x and
they subsequently dick you around. I've got the car buying thing down in
person, but if I buy a new car, I'll definitely try this method just to
avoid the likes of the last pack of morons I had to sort through to find
one who could read my lips and not waste my time. - Mark
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 11:49:40 -0500
From: "Gabriel Iliadis" <[email protected]>
Subject: 2G - Torque, Horsepower and its relation to Gas Consumption
Message-ID: <#54>
I am writing this with a big smile in my face. I tell ya...I love this
list. No matter what my next car will be (SSX, C5, Pronto Spyder,
M3...), this list will always be in my heart. It's not only our cars.
It's also the people...You guys are fantastic to "be with". Imagine if I
attend to any DSM get togethers :-)
Ok, now to my delayed reply to the "war" my previous post raised about
torque, horsepower and gas consumption. Above all, all is meant
well...civilized arguing is always beneficial. Here we go...
Dane wrote:
this is simple if you can come up with a linear function representing
the horsepower curve, just do a definite integral ( The opposite of a
derivative) for the RPM from the lower rpm to the higher rpm you are
interested in. Of course I don't know how you would come up with the
equation representing the horsepower curve, I suppose it would be easier
to do empirically(sp?) using MathCad or something similar and Just
drawing the curves.
Thanks for the help, but I do not think that I can do half that.
I wrote:
>What I mean: The 214 lb-ft peak value of torque (where in the rpm range is
>irrelevant at this point) for our 2Gs is "abnormally high" considering its
>peak horsepower (210 bhp or 213 hp DIN at what rpm is again irrelevant).
Dave Mertz wrote:
RPM cannot be considered irrelevant since:
Torque in lbs.ft. = 5252 * horsepower / RPM
That is true and I made good use of the above rule in coming up with the
horsepower our cars put out at their max torque value and what the Bhp is
for the NSX at that same point which I noted both in the previous message.
However, rpm is not relevant to the point I am trying to make there. Just
look at the max. torque values and compare them to the max. horsepower
values. I am not proving anything by just the max values of both. I am
just noting trends.
Then I wrote:
>(and please do
>not consider facts like, the 2G turbo is not efficient enough at high rpm,
Dave again replied:
But this is precisely why the torque peak looks high with respect to
the horsepower peak, so we MUST consider this fact.
That is not why. That is a secondary reason. The primary reason is
because a turbo as an "entity" is efficient ONLY at a certain (not very
wide) RPM range of its own. Do not forget, turbos spin at 190,000 rpm and
idle at 150,000 rpm.
Dave continued:
Actually, I would not say that the 2G peak torque is abnormally high
given the peak horsepower but that the peak horsepower is abnormally
low for the peak torque. This is because of the airflow limit imposed
by the restrictive stock air filter and the stock Garrett turbo. This
limit occurs at RPMs above where peak torque occurs, but well below the
RPMs where peak horsepower occurs. With these restrictions removed, I
expect that you would see a pretty flat torque curve all the way from
3000 RPM up to redline, yielding a peak horsepower of close to 285 at
around 7000 RPM.
First, I agree that if you take it the other way around it still stands
true. Second, look at my previous point about efficiency of turbos
concerning your argument about the Garrett. Third and most important, a
flat torque curve in an "aggressively" turbocharged engine is possible only
by spending a lot of money which would make our cars irrelevant to us (the
current target market). The airflow limit from the filter is more than
secondary. The upper and lower IC pipes are much more important in this
case but still secondary. Change both pipes and the BOV and see how your
torque curve flattens with no other mods. People think that the car makes
more Bhp, but that is not true. You make more Bhp at a certain RPM range
than before as the curve flattens upwards, but you do not make more *max*
Bhp. The ECU would not permit that anyway (read Todd Day's web site). Now
the above rule (Torque times RPM divided by 5250) is relative here. When
it comes to flatness of torque curves, there is nothing like a normally
aspirated engine (Variable Timing makes things even better). Don't forget.
Flat torque curve=Drivability.
Dave continued:
Consider that airflow per second is roughly proportional to horsepower
and airflow per rev is roughly proportional to torque. If airflow per
rev can be maintained constant as RPMs are increased (implying a
linearly rising airflow per second), you will get a flat torque curve.
Incomplete. Getting a flat torque involves - unfortunately - much more
than that. Otherwise, all vehicles would be turbocharged in some way or
another (it does not all have to do with intake). Oh, also, Honda would
not be considered as a leader and pioneer (note: in commercial vehicles) in
the Variable Valve Timing sector of automotive engineering.
Something tells me that we (DSMers) have become a little spoiled by the
fact that our cars "react" so positively to relatively cheap mods and the
results those mods give us.
Finally, Dave closed be noting:
FWIW, from what I've seen, the Acura NSXs (both turbo and non-turbo)
have pretty lackluster performance at the dragstrip, especially
considering their price tags. But they sure look good standing still.
Please, be more open minded. DSMs are not THE phenomenon of sports cars in
our time (and yes I always am talking in relation to their cost). You go
find another company which can make a top notch, hi-tech sports statement
with a vehicle that uses a 3.0 (and now 3,2) liter normally aspirated
engine. I am interested in putting a second in my list. Just because the
NSX does not put out 375 horses, everyone thinks it is a sports car
*excuse*. Here is the competition from Japan (including discontinued
competitors). Mitsu VR4, 300ZX, RX-7, Skyline GT-R (I will put that in
too), Supra TT. Do you see anything common in all those? They all use
blowers (maybe that is why they cost half of what the NSX does).
Unfortunately the max value in Bhp does not make a car, be a true sports
car. Ok, got carried away here. The topic of the post is not the NSX.
Chris Wuestefeld wrote:
If the car were on a dynamometer (I.e., not on the road), then what
Gabriel says about the relevance of torque would be true. However, as
soon as you take the car out on the road where it has to cut through the
wind, the significance of MPH increases dramatically.
That is totally true. I kept away from Cds and Aerodynamics for simplicity
and length-of-post purposes. But the numbers I posted, still stand. At
3000 rpm and 5th is the best place to keep your 2G on the highway for the
least consumption of gas.
Keith McDonnell wrote:
The only thing you are forgetting is that virtually all highway driving
is done without boost being a factor. It takes about 10 HP to keep a
car moving at a constant 55 mph,
Oh!...how much poorer the Mid-Eastern countries would be if you need 10 Bhp
to keep a 3100 pound car to keep cruising at 55 mph? Actually, that might
not be true as the price of gas would probably be more expensive due to
demand and supply proportions. But...that is economics. As far as boost
and highway driving, Keith, do you have a good Boost Meter? And even if
that is true, accelerating and decelerating takes place numerous times
during highway driving. If you are closer or upon your max torque value,
you are taking advantage of most (or all) of your engine's "pulling"
(torque) power, but also deceleration due to higher compression (hey less
brake pad wear :-) - I know, I know that, that is ridiculous, but it is
true to a certain extend). Thus, less gas (careful: load is not relevant
at that particular second; actually, it is about the same if we exclude the
wind resistance; and yes I am talking about the same gear, that is 5th).
And Keith continued to finish by stating:
If you can come up with a torque curve for our engine with 0 psi of
boost (and no you can't use the NT engine curve case it has different
compression ratio and other factors) that shows where the non-boosted
torque peak is then THAT is the RPM you should cruise at.
Incomplete and irrelevant. Our engine is designed, and made from every
aspect, to operate as efficiently as possible (considering its cost) WITH
that stock turbo on it. Just by excluding boost, you will find nothing.
You forget so many things, I need 3 pages to list them. I will state only
one (and Todd knows what I mean). The ECU and its mapping. You can't just
take the turbo or its boost out of the picture and leave the ECU's
EPROM/ROM intact and assume you got some meaningful results. I am sorry
guys but maybe now you understand why it is not simple to make an engine
that performs good, is cheap, is reliable, emits low emissions, and burns
little gas. It is just too expensive for our resources as a nation, or if
you wonna globalize it, as a planet. Sorry.
Now, Pete asked:
Interesting post by Gabriel in the last digest regarding torque... but I have
a question: What makes V8's so torquey? I had a '78 400 Pontiac Trans Am
that had been worked a bit - but stock, it had 220bhp, and *320* pounds of
torque, which I think was at a really low rpm (like around 2,000).
My short answer would be that because of the much higher restrictions, both
in intake and exhaust compared to the displacement. If you consider
percentages only, you will see that our DSMs (and probably most 4bangers)
are much less restricted than a V8 Mustang or Z28 relative to displacement
always. I am talking diameter of plumbing (again, both intake and
exhaust). The above explanation is very simplistic. There are other
factors as well (one would be the mapping of the ECU as I wrote before,
another the design of the head, stroke, bore and others). Anyway, I do not
want to get into this now for it is too long for one post, and it is not
directly relevant to the topic.
Todd Hayashi wrote:
What little changes in air-fuel ratio are made by the ECU in response to
engine rpm and load have a small effect on overall gas mileage.
True and thanks. Tell that to Mr. Mertz above :-)
Todd continued:
For purposes of gas mileage, ignore wind resistance. Vehicle weight and
engine size have a much greater effect on overall gas mileage. You're
right that there exists an optimum speed in top gear that maximizes fuel
efficiency in any car. It's normally at or very near the vehicle speed
corresponding to the peak of the engine's natural torque vs rpm curve. In
a 2G DSM it's about 70 mph in 5th gear and about 3000 rpm
Thanks again Todd. You're the best :-)
Now the very much respected Dennis Grant wrote:
There is a relationship between engine RPM and fuel consumption, but
it's not direct - you have to consider load as well.
True. I think that this strengthens my argument about keeping your RPM as
close to the max torque value as possible. Simply, you will "pull" harder.
Dave continued:
Every engine has a point in it's operating range where it develops the
most bang for the buck, a point where it makes best use of the fuel
provided it.
Thanks Dave :-)
Dave also stated:
In the real world, we have discrete transmissions with a limited number of
gears, so we don't get to adjust engine RPM to load like that. If we had a
continuously variable transmission like a ship or airplane (prop pitch is the
transmission) we could, but unless you have one of those newfangled CVT
Hondas, you can't play that game. Instead, you get to pick a gear, and
then adjust engine RPM - except that load changes with RPM!
True and correct.
Gabriel Iliadis
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 12:15:12 -0600
Subject: Re: Stereo Hookup [1G]
Message-ID: <#55>
channel of the factory deck. If you put in 4 ohm speakers in the door and
left the dash speakers alone, you can probably get by with running all
four of the fronts on the Sony deck. For better imaging, however, the
dash speakers should be disconnected. They aren't very difficult to get
at (1 screw on the plastic trim piece in the door groove next to the dash)
and then pull the harness connector off the speaker. I found that with
the dash speakers connected along with my MB Quart coaxes in the doors
the sound was very unbalanced since you have high frequencies coming from
two locations on each side, at different pathlengths. You should get
plenty of good sound from just the doors.
Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
'90 Eclipse GS-2.0
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 12:36:37 -0600
Subject: Re: Kill The Talon
Message-ID: <#56>
>Just because a car is less advertised doesn't make it have a "bad" image.
>How many ads on TV do you see for the Corvette or 3000GT?
>Seen any TV ads for the Supra lately?
Yeah, and 3000GT and Supra sales have been on a pretty steady decline
since '93. The Corvette was on the same path as well until the C5
was released. Advertising can get people thinking about making a change
in their life. Buying a new car can be a substantial change for the
better. What lot do you go to first? The one that has that cool car
you saw on that TV ad? If you don't know a lot about cars, that's
probably what happens. Ads bring people into dealerships.
I doubt that Dodge would sell many Neons if they hadn't advertised the
hell out of them. How many Plymouth Breeze's do you see on the road?
Not many in my area, because they don't get advertised.
Mitsubishi: PLEASE make some fun, exciting commercials that get people
into the dealerships! We love these cars and want them to be around
in the future.
~Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
'90 Eclipse GS-2.0
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:40:34 -0600
From: Todd Streed <[email protected]>
Subject: Porche turbo timer
Message-ID: <#57>
I used to have a 944 turbo before I picked up my Talon AWD. As I recall
the Porche had an electric pump that would come on when you shut the engine
off. This pump would circulate coolant through the turbo to cool it to a
specified temperature and then shut off.
This seems like a much better system than the turbo timers we use on the
DSMs. Am I right on the Porche system? Has anyone looked into developing
this system for the DSMs?
Todd Streed
91 AWD TSI
P.S. If you are ever mad at the cost to repair a DSM, buy a Porche. I
cracked an exhaust manifold. $1200 just for the part. I got lucky and
found a used one for "only" $800. What's a new 95 manifold for the DSM?
$250, and I think that's even ported.
------------------------------
From bouncer Sat Jan 10 01:43:09 1998
for talon-digest-approved on Sat, 10 Jan 1998 01:43:09 -0800
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
Today's Topics:
1) Eric Wu
PMS vs VPC
2) Eric Wu
For Sale
3) Andrew Bienhaus
Cell Phone Mount - Revisited
4) Josh Wingell
3G followup from detnews
5) David Scott
Spoilers, Piaa HID, AWD, Useless features.
7) Baran Kilical
[2G, T] Warped Rotors, Big Brakes, Cross Drilled R
8) Vel N.
ALL: ABS Light On
9) smokin
Idle adjusting screw
10) Keith McDonnell
Analysis of torque curves
11) AWD DRIVER
I have a problem...
12) Mike Harding
Re: Busted engine to exhaust manifold bolt
13) Dennison Lee
[1G,T, AWD] Center bearing bracket
14) Jason
2.5" flex section, High-flow cats
15) Tom Stangl
Walbro pump purchase/new VFAQ
16) Devil Bat
C5 Corvette down in flames.
17) Robert Arrowood
The Talon Replacement
18) Barry
Stripe or vinyl application tips
19) Robert E. Ritchie [1G,T] Turbo went out! WTB...
20) Tom Stangl
Beg message <duck>
21) Ryan Denke
[2g] Theft Alarm Programming
22) Gregory Haines
3G?
23) Boosting4
Hello
24) Dan Henderson
Happy Happy, Joy Joy. 1G Talon Tsi AWD Turbo AT. 1
25) traeglmorf
15000 Checkup
26) Jeremy Anderson
1991 TSi AWD stock alarm
27) Jeremy Anderson
Re: Talon murder and other cruel sports
28) Gade Hayes
This and that....and Our DSM supremecy
29) Gade Hayes
Double Post
30) Snakeyes2
re: cracked brake rotors
31) Nathan T. Pharr
GVR4 H&R springs/ other GVR stuff
Re: '98 Factory Alarm (was '98 GSX Price)
Re: New Car Pricing in Cyberspace
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
42)
43)
44)
45)
46)
47)
48)
49)
50)
51)
52)
53)
55)
56)
57)
Btalont
PMS....my $.02
mkline
RE: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Paul Lyons
porsche turbo timer
Michael Breslin
BG Synchroshift for Sale
Keith McDonnell
Re: Sarcasm?!?
Shawn Murphy
Eclipse Awards
Dong Shin
[GVR4]Galant VR-4 Registry
Keith McDonnell
Re: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
White " "Tornado
I love this list!
Dan Sides
low power
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Why worry about Killing the Talon
BlueTalon2
Bell 855sti/Crankshaft Pulley
Wallace Tam
torque, and how it's not related to gas consumptio
Roy Stedman
re: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Robert Deis
starter cutout
David Scott
Porsche, HTML Digest
Gregory Carlsen
Responses...Race info...
Scandura, Michael (A re: (2g) Factory Alarm
Bryan J. McGlade
Air Can Mods Made Simple. Remove the can!
Stan Moskal
{2g}ETACS-ECU
Oktavian F.
Conquest/Starion Intercooler
Oktavian F.
Re: Re: Air Filter Problems
Paul G. Tobey
RE: buying cars
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:33:49 -0800
Subject: PMS vs VPC
Message-ID: <#1>
>>In real world terms I find the VPC to be easier to set up and use, AND,
>>so far, it outperforms the PMS on my car! Thank you Dave Buschur!
>I whole-heartedly agree. The VPC is simple to install and use, and it is
>probably giving your car better performance over the PMS because of how it
>was tuned.
Just on the 2G (since 1G can manually change the base timming), which I
know only has 1-2 cars running in the 12s with VPC. Also I don't think
they are satisfy with the VPC yet, very inconsistant (s?)! While I am
running 19.8 psi on the PMS program with around 12.61 to 12.65 over 10 runs
already!
Another thing I would like to point out is that with street 92 octant gas,
car will re-tars the timming back to 9-10 degrees which you can do nothing
with VPC. VPC might be ok with race gas since stock ECU brings it back up,
but you don't have anypower on the road.
Eric
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:34:35 -0800
Subject: For Sale
Message-ID: <#2>
Selling my 550cc injectors for 2G. 6K miles RC blue printed and balanced.
Asking $300 shipped.
Eric
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:39:29 -0500
Subject: Cell Phone Mount - Revisited
Message-ID: <#3>
Well, thanks for the response guys, I guess there are a few more out there
looking for a cell phone bracket than I thought. So, I did some research,
and got the full info on the place.
Pro-Fit of Egan, Minnesota (800)388-0073 and from there they should be able
to find someone local to you who can order you a bracket. Again, I haven't
seen a 1G install, but if it's anything like the class of the 2G, it'll be
good.
To answer the rest of you that wanted to see what it looked like, go here:
http://www.ionline.net/~accolon/carstuff/
Digital cameras are a wonderful thing... :) 30 mins ago, I was just a guy
running through the parking lot in the rain, now it's picture on the web for
the world to see...
...but, I digest...
Andrew - 97 TSI AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 15:53:50 -0500
Subject: 3G followup from detnews
Message-ID: <#4>
In response to the mention of the 1999 Eclipse in DetNews.com,
I asked for more info from them. Here is the email and reply.
You can see the full thing by searching for "wingell" at:
http://data.detnews.com:8081/feedback/searchform.hbs
Date: 1/7/1998
From: Josh Wingell
City: Leominster
State: MA
Email: [email protected]
Subject: Mitsubishi Eclipse
Comments:
I own a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX. I am also a member
of a worldwide Eclipse/Talon/Laser club called Club DSM (
http://www.dsm.org/ ). With great interest, we have read
your article concerning vehicles at the Detroit Auto show.
Notable was the mention of the 3rd generation Eclipse due in
1999. I was wondering if you might be able to show us a
picture of the 1999 Eclipse and maybe mention some of the
engines/drivetrains that will be available?
Great report!
Thanks!
Josh Wingell
See our movie of the Mitsubishi SST concept
vehicle. While we don't know exactly what the 1999
Eclipse will look like, the automaker says this
"metal in motion" styling theme will appear in
future production vehicles. The exaggerated wheel
arches cover massive 20-inch aluminum wheels.
The concept vehicle has a turbocharged,
210-horsepower 4-cylinder engine, but Mitsubishi
says it's designed to accept the full range of its
engines, including a 3.5-liter V6.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 15:14:38 -0600
From: David Scott <[email protected]>
Subject: Spoilers, Piaa HID, AWD, Useless features.
Message-ID: <#5>
Oh the snow is coming down...and I just installed my Goodyear Eagle
GW+s!
I'm no aerodynamics expert, but I can add something about spoilers. The
spoilers on all DSMs are really only for cosmetics. Don't get me wrong,
they do have aerodynamic function, probably even more than us daily
drivers will ever need. In cold weather, when you can see your exhaust,
you can see even at low speeds that the spoiler has some effect to the
airstream over and behind the car. I've seen Lasers with no spoilers and
their exhaust just puffs out behind at all speeds. On my 90 TSi, and
other cars with some kind of a rear fin, the exhaust swirls up behind
the car so that you can't even see the tail lights. I still think the
car looks better with the spoiler on though and who knows maybe it has
given me extra control and stability at high speeds. I'll just leave it
where it is. For all those guys out there with the big high wings on the
back of your car: did you buy it for its functional value? I doubt it.
Speaking of non-functional equipment on cars, I noticed quite a while
ago that on several "sporty" GM models the engineers decided to put on
dual exhausts with two outlets on each muffler. I guess this was to
entice those people out there that want to buy a sports car but really
don't know what a real sports car is. You know the models: Grand AM GT,
Sunbird, Lumina Z34, Cavalier Z24, etc. Anyways, one thing that always
caught my attention about these cars, since I was always stuck behind
them in traffic, was that one pipe on each muffler (outer pipes towards
outside of car) were always black and sooty inside, whereas the inner
two pipes were clean as a whistle. I noticed this on all these types of
cars. Then when the weather got colder I could clearly see that there is
no exhaust coming out of the inner two pipes. What a joke! They must be
just welded on for looks. This one ranks up there with those ridiculous
externally mounted trunk spare tire cases on the old Caddys and
Lincolns. Or how about those covers that blocked off half the rear wheel
wells. Or Landau roofs. I could go on... I guess the reason for these
strange and useless features is to sell to stupid people that think the
features are functional, no matter how ugly they are!
Piaa makes HID (High Intensity Discharge) aftermarket lights, I have no
idea what the cost of them is. They work similar to a fluorescent light.
A "ballast" provides the high voltage required to "start/ignite" the
lights. Once going the lights require very little power to keep going
(35W). The Piaa product brochure gives a good description of these
lights and all their other products. I ordered one from the phone number
in their ads. If anyone wants I can scan in the description of the HID
lighting system (I'd have more info but the brochure is at home).
Strange thing happened to me on the way home from work a couple of days
ago. It had snowed a lot during the day (7-8") so driving was a bit
treacherous. My favourite driving conditions! I was driving hard and
nobody could keep up to me as usual. I blew by a 1G Talon ES. The guy
kept trying to catch up to me but couldn't. Eventually he got beside me
in traffic and rolled down his window:
"What have you done to your car", he says. "I can't keep up to you!"
"That's because mine is All Wheel Drive", I said.
He says, "so's mine."
I said, "No it's not!"
He was so confused. I just took off in a great spinning of 4 wheels.
I'm sure that guy was pissed off. Someone pulled one over on him selling
that car!
The demise of the Talon means a lot more to us Canadians due to the fact
that Mitsubishi does not sell North of the 49th. Think about that for a
minute or two. No Talon=No DSM. I guess I'll have to do some
cross-border shopping when I want to upgrade. Or maybe that Evolution V
in black with RHD from Japan...
Regards
Dave Scott
'90 Talon TSi AWD
Havin' some fun now!
I wanna be an Amsoil Dealer! (to the tune of "Airborne Ranger")
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:07:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Baran Kilical <[email protected]>
Subject: [2G, T] Warped Rotors, Big Brakes, Cross Drilled Rotors
Message-ID: <#7>
Hi everyone,
My vented disc brakes are warped for the 4th time. Unfortunately, I don't
have enough metal left to resurface them. If you were in my shoes, what
would you consider buying? The dealership near me sells the OEM vented
discs for $90 a piece. NOPI has cross drilled rotors at $112 a piece plus
shipping. I know you can't resurface cross drilled rotors. My questions
is, how likely are they to warp? Since the heat dissipation is improved,
do they warp at all? If I should go for cross drilled (perhaps slotted
too), where is a good place to buy? Thanks in advance.
Baran Kilical
95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 17:23:19 -0600
From: "Vel N." <[email protected]>
Subject: ALL: ABS Light On
Message-ID: <#8>
I noticed that my ABS light just came on on my Galant VR-4. Can anyone tell
me how this sensor is triggered? I don't have ABS anymore. Where do I look
to diagnose the source of the problem? Is it the ECU detecting an error?
If so, from what sensor(s)?
Rgds,
Vel
'91 Galant VR-4
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 17:41:36 -0600
From: [email protected] (smokin)
Subject: Idle adjusting screw
Message-ID: <#9>
This is for the archives.
After trying to get the idle adjusting screw that is located on top of the
throttle body, I finally got it through Matt Meyer.
The part # is MD614948
and it's called, "Adjusting Screw, Throttle Body"
After you finally get the throttle body adjusting screw, go visit your
local Sears (or whatever) and head back to the plumbing dept.
Find a #5 o-ring (3/8x1/4x1/16). This goes right under the head of the
screw in that valley that looks as if an o-ring should go there.
As for setting the idle, I not sure where the ground wire is for the ISC
that is supposed to be grounded when you reset the screw, so I went on
luck. I screwed the screw in all the way (not too tight!), and tried to
start the car. It didn't want to idle at all. I backed the screw out
about 3-4 turns. Restarted the car, woohoo, 750rpm, rock solid. I got
back out of the car and turned the screw back in about 1 turn or so, don't
want it to fall out again. Anyway, only time will tell if I'll have to set
the idle the correct way.
Good Luck,
Dave Flaherty
irc SmokinDav
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:46:40 -0500
Subject: Analysis of torque curves
Message-ID: <#10>
CAR
PEAK LB-FT OF
LB-FT TORQUE % of peak torq
TORQUE @ RPM
hp @ RPM @ max hp
@ max hp
camaro (97)
325 2400
285 5200
288
89%
C-5 corvette
350 4400
345 5600
324
93%
Mustang
285 3500
215 4400
257
90%
Mustang cobra
300 4800
305 5800
276
92%
3KGT VR-4
315 2500
320 6000
280
89%
Honda civic EX 107 5500
127 6600
101
94%
Honda Prelude SH 205 5500
200 6800
154
75%
Dodge Viper
488 3600
450 5200
455
93%
Lamborgini Diablo 428 5200
492 7000
369
86%
Porsche 911 Turbo 400 4500
400 5750
365
91%
Lotus Esprit V-8 285 4500
350 6500
283
99%
Ferrari 456 GTA 398 4500
436 6250
366
92%
Eclipse (1G)
203 3000
195 6000
171
88%
Eclipse (2G)
214 3000
210 6000
184
86%
This information DOESN'T include any analysis of engine torque below the
peak, it is a well know fact that cars like the Diablo and Viper have
LOTS of torque below there torque peak so take the next few lines with a
grain of salt.
Based on the above data (not including torque values below the peak)
The 3000 GT VR-4 has the broadest torque curve with 89% of its torque
available from an incredibly low 2500 RPM all the way up to 6000 RPM for
a 3500 RPM broad torque curve. This is followed closely by the first
and second gen eclipses with a 3000 RPM broad torque curve with 88% and
86% available respectively.
The 97 Camaro with a 2800 RPM band giving 89% of its torque across the
band is also pretty phenomenal.
The worst of the bunch was (no lie check the data yourself) the Mustang
4.6l GT. It has a torque curve a whooping 900 RPM wide from peak torque
to peak hp with 90% of that power available through out that range.
Even though I have side it a couple times already I expect some
responses/flames about not including torque values below the torque
peak. I don't have access to that data or I would have included it in
my analysis. The torque values at max hp were calculated using the
formula "T=Bhp*5252/RPM" so my data is limited to two data point...you
can interpolate a third point using the knowledge that hp=T at 5252 RPM
if you want to go through the trouble of actually graphing the two known
data points and putting a dot between the two strait lines at the 5252
RPM point on the graph and then drawing curved lines from your initial
data points that intersect at the interpolated dot. You would have to
calculate the hp at the peak torque using the formula "Bhp=T*RPM/5252"
to get your second hp data point and I am just to damn lazy to go that
in depth.
Talk to you later,
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 18:47:47 EST
From: AWD DRIVER <[email protected]>
Subject: I have a problem...
Message-ID: <#11>
This is my first posting. I have a 92 Talon Tsi AWD Turbo auto 50k mi that is
95% stock. I have been experiencing an intermittent performance problem that
I
need some more insight into what may be the problem. I have a bog or flat spot
under throttle that comes and goes. I can rev the engine a few times and the
car runs stronger. Boost seems to come on strong and always is good at WOT.
Sometimes when I have re started the car the problem goes away for a period
of
time. Re setting the ECU has helped in the past for a short time as well. I
have also noticed that I get lifter or injector noise occasionally that
disappears when you re start the car. I am leaning toward ECU or O2 sensor as
the culprit. There are no error codes stored in the ECU, so no obvious
problem. The dealer guys have never found the problem (no suprise there) and I
am sick of not having all the performance I used to have. Can anyone point me
in the right direction?
Jack
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:24:28 +0000
From: Mike Harding <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Busted engine to exhaust manifold bolt
Message-ID: <#12>
Same thing just happened to me. I was recharging the battery on my '90
Eclipse (prior to winter storage) when I noticed the exact same
bolt/stud was broken flush with the exhaust manifold. I'm definitely
not looking forward to the trip to the dealer. It sounds like this is a
common problem. Can anyone recommend a stronger replacement? My
Eclipse is just shy of 29,000 miles and is not driven hard (well, maybe
one or two stoplight-to-stoplight races). I'm amazed this thing broke.
Mike Harding
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 16:41:32 -0800
From: Dennison Lee <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G,T, AWD] Center bearing bracket
Message-ID: <#13>
I have just noticed on my car that it seems like I'm missing the bolt and a
spacer for the center bearing.
Here's the deal. I looked in the service manual and the above mentioned is
what I'm missing.
The dealer sells a center bearing bracket kit, but they say it only comes
with one bolt, no spacer.
I used a mirror to look in more detail and the hole where the bolt goes
into the engine, is blocked, doesn't look like a broken bolt in there. The
surface is very smooth (probably recessed by approx. 1mm).
My question is this. Could someone please check for me if there's really
suppose to be a bolt there.
To check:
1) Open the hood
2) On the driver's side, look down behind the engine, locate the
driveshaft and you should see a bracket holding the center bearing in
place, the center bearing goes around the driveshaft. The bracket is
connected to the engine. There should be 2 bolts holding the bracket to
the engine (according to the service manual).
Not looking forward to fixing this, if it is missing. Only way to get to
it is from the top, or else taking out the rack.
Den.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 17:00:14 -0800
From: [email protected] (Jason)
Subject: 2.5" flex section, High-flow cats
Message-ID: <#14>
I'm building a 2.5" Turbo-back system for my '90 AWD. Where can I
find a 2.5' flex section? Also, any comments on 2.5" High-flow cats
would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason, '90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:14:20 -0800
From: [email protected] (Tom Stangl)
Subject: Walbro pump purchase/new VFAQ
Message-ID: <#15>
REPLY TO [email protected], NOT to my work address!
Repost of some info, for people that have missed it, and new info mixed
in...
OK, I have gotten both 1G and 2G Walbro kits, and they are slightly
different. They use the same pump, but the accessories are different.
SO, if you want a Walbro pump for $103 shipped (cont. US, a little more
elsewhere), and HAVEN'T Emailed me, please do so SOON. I want to put
an order together mid-Jan, so I can get the pumps to people by the end of Jan.
I WILL need prepayment in order to order a pump for you, I can't afford to
make this order without payment ready.
The kits make either install a bolt-in now - I HAVE a 1G VFAQ up for the 1G
pump kit now, check it out at http://www.vfaq.com ...
Several people have asked for more info on the Walbro pumps. The kits come
with EVERYTHING needed for install except the bottom spacer on the pump
outlet, which you get off of the stock pump (1G kits also do not have the
crimp connector needed, see below).
1G AWD - not QUITE a direct bolt-in - the electrical plug
used to attach the pump needs to be spliced onto the
12V wire on the pump assembly. This can be done with
a crimp connector, or soldered (preferred).
1G FWD - same as 1G AWD, as far as I know - I don't have a 1G
FWD to test it on.
2G AWD - DIRECT bolt-in, as the 2G stock pump uses the same
plug as the Walbro pump
2G FWD - same as 2G AWD
Flow - the Walbro pump outflows the ND pump by a wide margin.
The pump used in the DSM kits has the same flow
characteristics as the GSS307 pump shown in the 1G AWD
"Mustang" VFAQ at http://www.vfaq.com (which has the
flow chart in it). Walbro engineers are going to get me
the actual flow chart for the pumps in these kits as
soon as they can.
Noise - these pumps ARE louder than stock. The ND pump is
was NO louder than stock, you could barely hear it at all
car to car.
Hope this answers most of the questions people have.
Please reply to [email protected] with any further questions.
Tom Stangl
***http://www.vfaq.com/
***DSM Visual FAQ home
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:45:09 -0500
Subject: C5 Corvette down in flames.
Message-ID: <#16>
Ahhh it was a wonderful night to be at the local 1/8 mile
strip, if you were a DSM that is!
I ran my 93 AWD at the local 1/8 track's "Street Car" night
and was presented a most wonderful selection of the latest
domestic iron to trounce! Check out this cast of characters!
1st run:
2nd run:
3rd run:
4th run:
5th run:
Chevelle 396SS beat by 1.6 seconds in the 1/8 by a rice burner!
93 Mustang 5.0L toast by 2.0 sec!
Brand new 305 Z28 beat by .7 sec in the 1/8!
Grand Am Quad 4? Do I need to go any further?
Vortec powered Chevy pickup. I'll spare you the details.
6th run: 1998 Chevy Corvette. America's sports car. Down in
flames to a rice burning 4 banger by .5 sec in the 1/8
I don't want to hear AWD launch on that Corvette. He dialed in slower,
I got a crappy launch and pulled him down the strip on pure horsepower.
I am very amused right now!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 20:48:52 -0600
Subject: The Talon Replacement
Message-ID: <#17>
Well Plymouth has released the concept PLYMOUTH PRONT SPYDER. Could
this be the Talon Replacement? 0-60 in 5.3sec 1/4 mile in 13.8 (?),
STOCK!
16V Supercharged 4Cyl - $25K
Robert Arrowood
1990 Talon Tsi AWD - XCLRATN
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:18:44 -0500
Subject: Stripe or vinyl application tips
Message-ID: <#18>
Over the past few months the racing stripe has been looking better and
better to me. So after some carefull thought and then some shopping
around, I bought some vinyl. I was at first surprised at the high
estimate at a local customizing/audio shop. (~$300.00 installed,
"premium" vinyl) I looked for a cheaper method. I called a local sign
shop, talked to the guy. He has lots of colors. I can cut my widths at
work. I pay ~$26 for 48" x 28" of glossy, metallic silver.
I cut my 4" widths and go home to eagerly apply my stripes. I'll try a
test section. 3 times I do a 4"x7" section and fail miserably. I
would'nt have tried this if I thought I would stink so bad. I'm usually
good at this stuff and I wonder if there is not something I'm missing?
When I put on my "DSM" windsheild sticker I did great. No bubbles,
straight. The only difference is the DSM sticker had a paper stuck to
the front too. My stripe does not. The vinyl is very thin and distorts
and bubbles when I peal and try to lay it.
Any one out there willing to lend some hints to this art?
Yah, I know, I should have paid $300 to some dude right? as George Bush
would say "Not gonna do it, not ganna do it."
Earning my stripes the hard way,
Barry Salsi
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:10:00 -0600
From: "Robert E. Ritchie" <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G,T] Turbo went out! WTB...
Message-ID: <#19>
My turbo seized last night, so I've been driving with the wastegate
wired open until I find a replacement. BTW if anybody has a 1G stock
turbo lying around they want to sell, please RTP. Otherwise I'll get
a 16G but I was hoping to do some other upgrades and repairs first.
If anyone knows any good reason I shouldn't drive it like this, let me
know. But I can't think of any problems it might cause. Oh, maybe I
might damage the turbo! ;) It is very slow but runs fine. I seem to
be getting terrible gas mileage, but that may be because I have to use
a LOT of throttle just to get around.
For the record, seizure occurred with no warning. I'm guessing the
oil supply line got clogged or something. It wasn't leaking oil,
smoking, squealing, or any of the usual warning signs. If the cause
was anything interesting I'll let everyone know.
The turbo won't spin AT ALL, but the factory boost gauge shows up to
7 PSI boost! VDO gauge shows zero. Moral of this story is: get a
real boost gauge before you crank it up!
Hey, this means I can run the cheap 87 octane gas now, right? :)
Rob Ritchie, '90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:16:24 -0800
Subject: Beg message <duck>
Message-ID: <#20>
OK, I've been avoiding posting anymore beg messages lately, since the VFAQ
digicam is damn near paid off, but...
In order to not have to rely on having my work laptop around every time I
am taking pics for VFAQs, I ordered a 32Meg memory card for it. I decided
that I didn't want to have to stop constantly during my engine teardown and
MAJOR rebuild to dump pics to the computer. Problem is, I don't really
have the money to cover it. I'll deal with the CC bill (like I have a
choice) along with the several thousand the rebuild will run, but if you
feel like donating, please hit http://www.vfaq.com/index.html for info.
Sorry to beg here.
Tom Stangl
**http://www.vfaq.com
**VFAQ Home Page
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:38:28 -0700
From: Ryan Denke <[email protected]>
Subject: [2g] Theft Alarm Programming
Message-ID: <#21>
Lately there has been some discussion about enabling/disabling the
factory alarm. From discussions on here, it sounds like the alarms are
installed on all cars and are disabled or enabled if the customer pays
for it. I have found some evidence which may support this:
Although the following 1995 TSB does NOT apply to DSM's, it is evidence
that certain features are enabled or disabled by programming with a DRB
III tool. A similar feature is probably found on newer DSM's.
TSB No: 08-34-95
Group: Electrical
Date: Aug, 18, 1995
Subject: Programmable Electronic Features
Affecting: 1996 Cirrus/Sebring/Concorde/Intrepid/Vision/New
Yorker/LHS/Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country/Grand Cherokee
The TSB is a discussion of how the following features can be programmed
with the DRB III tool or by button pushing sequences (not shown).
A default factory setting table is shown. Some of the features that can
be enabled/disabled are:
~Door locks automatically at 15mph
~Horn chirps when doors are locked with remote keyless entry
~Audible Low Fuel warning
~Audible turn signal warning
~Driver's door unlocks with first remote keyless entry activation,
remainder of doors unlock with second activation
~Headlights come on when winshield wipers are activated
Granted, none of these are "security system enable," but it makes me
think that maybe it's something as simple as this that will
enable/disable the security system when you buy a new DSM...
Ryan Denke
'91 Talon NT
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:45:07 -0500
Subject: 3G?
Message-ID: <#22>
I looked at the carpoint site and saw the Mitsu concept
car. Don't stop there, though. Look at the Dodge Pronto
Spyder! Now that looks like a worthy successor to the
Talon/Laser. Beautiful. I'd take one in a heartbeat if
they give it any kind of performance and style it anything
like the show car. Hmmm, can't seem to figure out hou to
put a hyperlink in here. The auto show pix are at:
http://www.carpoint.msn.com/Autoshow98/surround. Check
*this* one out!
Greg Haines
PbPedis
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:46:43 EST
From: Boosting4 <[email protected]>
Subject: Hello
Message-ID: <#23>
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking to see if anyone has a new head laying around they would like to
get rid of. I'm looking for a new one or slightly used rebuilt one.
Thank You
Brendan Stewart Galant Vr-4 1675
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:13:38 -0700
From: Dan Henderson <[email protected]>
Subject: Happy Happy, Joy Joy. 1G Talon Tsi AWD Turbo AT. 100k
Message-ID: <#24>
Well guys, I don't post much, but I think the 100,000 mile mark is a
good enough reason. Now that she is starting to mature, I think it is
time to do some work.
What kind of things should be checked/replaced at the 100,000 mark? I
bought the car at 91k, and had no major problems yet, I do hear the oh
so popular pinging in the morning, though. I have her scheduled for the
Satan crew on next Tuesday.
Also, I have been looking for some new front rotors. Would cross drilled
Brembo's be a wise choice? Or maybe stepping up to the big break kit?
I have heard of a process where I can have my wheels (stock) chromed. Is
this a possibility? If so, any ideas of what it takes or who could do
it?
Also, I do quite a bit of snowboarding, which board rack fits best on my
car?
How much does a paint job cost? Would changing the color be worth the
added cost? (Is it that much more?)
How can I deaden the vibrations of the spoiler? I have 2 12" subs, and
they sound great inside, but they sound like hell outside...
Does anyone have a VDO Boost guage, A/F Mix Guage, and vent mount for
sale? I'm looking to buy very very soon.
Also, I am looking at a new exaust. What is the best sounding? I'd like
to go with 2.5" and proformance is a huge issue.
Thanks again. A big thanks to Todd, without him I wouldn't be allowed to
ramble every 100k.
Enjoy the new year.
Dan Henderson
91 Talon Tsi AWD Turbo AT - Sliding around in Wyoming.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:34:23 -0800
Subject: 15000 Checkup
Message-ID: <#25>
My 1997 AWD bird is hitting the big 15K this weekend and between my
owner's manual and shop manuals I'm sure I can cover the standard stuff.
Anybody have any suggestions/recommendations/tips that you'd like to pass
along?
I also just got a good deal on a 1g bov and DIS filter that I want to
install- the kicker is that I don't have a boost gauge yet, but I can't
imagine letting them sit in my garage while my girl asthmatically limps
around 4.sux... Can anyone curse/bless installing them without a gauge?
Thanks,
Dave
'My F15'
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Thu, 8 Jan 1998 22:09:34 -0800
"Jeremy Anderson" <[email protected]>
Subject: 1991 TSi AWD stock alarm
Message-ID: <#26>
hmm...
my friend and I did a little experiment...
:As a quick test, open your windows, get out of the
:car, lock the door, going through the open window, unlock the door. At
:this point, your horn should be going off. Get in the car, start the
:car, drive away with the horns still going.
not to test the if there was an ignition disabler or what not, but to see
how the alarm could be disabled. he sat in the car and I got out, locked it,
closed the door. the security light came on, then he unlocked the passenger
door from the inside, and nada. he opened the door and got out. nada.
*however* I accidentally tried to open my hatch without unlocking it first
(thinking I had "popped" it), pulling rather hard, then realizing it was
still locked, put the key in, unlocked it, then pushed it up (my lift rods
are shot)... then the car started honking like mad. talk about a surprise!
another weird incident... how long does the (security) light stay on? I
mean, I've locked the car, gone into stores, and come back out to find it
still on 30 mins. later, but if I park it for over an hour or so, it goes
out. is the alarm off, or just in "stealth" mode to save the few milliamps
from the battery it takes to light that dash indicator?
my other question is...
what triggers the alarm to go off? what does the alarm prevent
(ignition,etc...)
keep in mind, 91 TSi AWD.
thanks,
jer
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Fri, 9 Jan 1998 01:33:58 -0800
"Jeremy Anderson" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Talon murder and other cruel sports
Message-ID: <#27>
(my first post... *woo*)
Hey, just thought I'd voice my opinion in the form of a reply to:
>JON ROBERTS <[email protected]>
> Re: kill the talon II.
** my comments, below:
>>Eagle Talon - Ya, AWD, Turbo, economical to modify, - $22,000. There
>>were only 2 in the whole Pittsburgh area in March 1997. Mine was sitting
>>in the dealers lot since November 1996. It was lust at first site.
** now this is exactly what I like about the Talon. it's RARE. yes, there
are a lot of them, esp. in big cities and eastern Kentucky (I noticed this
on vacation this past Christmas)... but it's not NEARLY as popular as the
Eclipse is. I don't buy a sports car because I want to go with the flow. I
buy a sports car because I want to stand out, to be the leader of the back,
both physically and metaphorically speaking. Given that the pack is mostly
Eclipses, I'd rather be driving a Talon, because it will look different, and
to me, that is COOL.
>thats what I mean. Chrysler has done a crappy job selling this car.
>If they can't do it right, I rather them not try at all.
** first off, I own a 1991 Talon TSi AWD. So I am biased, but I have good
reason for my bias. I bought an Eagle Talon first for the mechanics by DSM,
and secondly for the NAME. "Eagle Talon" sounds completely badass. The car
looks like it sounds, lean, cool, calculating, FAST... like an Eagle. Sharp,
streamlined, and deadly... like a TALON. "Mitsubishi Eclipse" just doesn't
do it for me... no imagery involved, just an OK sounding name far outclassed
by the machinery that wears it.
** secondly, I bought the car for it's appearance. granted the Laser is far
more deviant (forgive me, but "plain" seems to fit) than the Eclipse, but
Eagle made a far more agressive looking body in the 1G cars than Mitsu did.
>The Talon name is gone, thats all. Thats what I am glad to see go.
** and this is EXACTLY what I hate to see leaving. The name, the body
style... *sniff* granted, I didn't like the 2Gs much, and I think 2G Mitsus
actually look better than 2G talons, I was hoping that 3G would be the
comeback car... but I guess we'll never know now...
>To me, Chrysler did such a bad job selling these cars that they actually
>did more harm than good. They really hurt the credibility of this car
>because of the crappy job they have done.
** credibility gone? hell no, just helping to build a legacy of diamonds in
the rough (dang I'm bad with the puns tonight).
Jer
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 04:46:28 -0600
From: Gade Hayes <[email protected]>
Subject: This and that....and Our DSM supremecy
Message-ID: <#28>
Howdy all...
To finish this VPC vs. PMS bull$hit...They can both be used together for an
ultimate setup...
So Dammnit...no more fighting...
Don't redo your crankshaft pulley, or buy the $80 dollar Chrysler piece...spend a
little more, and get the Unorthodox Racing Pulley. 10 horse...$30 more...go
figure...
Well, after a short delay...will have the car back with all goodies next
Saturday
for sure...will be ready Tuesday, but since I have to start classes Monday, but I
have to drive 250 miles to get it so that put's a damper on things...Oh well...I've
waited this long...
Correct me before I get this huge ego trip going, but has anyone else done
everything godly possible to the engine, and kept the 16G? The only thing I
didn't
get was Titanium Valve Retainers... Can I expect to be the fastest 16G? There
is no question in my mind that I'm capable of the driving... just wonder about
power... Well? If anyone is more modded and on a 16G, I'd like to hear about
your
performance...ET's and trap speeds and what not...
In case there is any discrepency... '91 TSi AWD In order from Air box to exhaust
tip...
Mods: 1. Cut Can; 2. Added K&N; 3. 16G clipped to 8 degrees, extrude honed
inlet;
4.Alamo side mount IC; 5. HKS Upper Pipe; 6.Greddy Type S BOV; 7.Upgraded
61mm
Throttle Body; 8. Extrude honed intake manny; 9. 550cc injectors, Upgraded
Buschur
Pump, and FPR; 10. Ported and polished head; 11. HKS Cams 272; 12. 8.5:1
pistons;
13. Bored 40 over; 14. Balance Shaft Eliminator; 15. Extrude Honed Exhaust
Manny(Also
Ceramic Coated); 16. Ported and polished compressor housing; 17. Ported O2
housing;
18. Buschur 2 3/4 DP; 19. Test pipe; 20. Trust Cat-back 2 3/4 exhaust with
Trust
Muffler. Also...VPC, GReddy Profec A, Unorthodox Pulley, '94 Model Tranny,
CFDF
clutch, CUSCO center diff., 4 bolt axles, AND STILL an overly full
interior...Factory
Wheels, and Pirelli P7000 supersports...
That's about it... What is that Stage 7 or something...?
WELL bud-ep-bud-ep-budep- That's All Folks...
Gade "GReddy" Hayes
P.S. If you do have this pristine honor of Fastest 1st Gen 16G look, I'm on
my way up the ranks...
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 04:48:27 -0600
Subject: Double Post
Message-ID: <#29>
BTW...Todd...You rock...
My car doesn't run...but in my dreams it's so so sweet.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 06:56:26 EST
From: Snakeyes2 <[email protected]>
Subject: re: cracked brake rotors
Message-ID: <#30>
For some reason the import community, especially that of asian cars, has been
sucked into the idea of cross-drilling rotors. Cross-drilling rotors are
great on a race track where one has a $22K brake setup (yes, GT car brake
setups cost 22 grand). And where one wouldn't mind going through rotors every
2,000 miles. Well, there is a better choice, gas slotting, of course nothing
looks cooler than some Brembo's from Stillen, but arent we all more
performance minded (unlike all the Civic and SE-R guys that Stillen makes
money off of)?
Gas slots in the rotor face have several advantages over cross-drilled
holes:
1.Since brakes are essentially heat-sinks, the more mass you have the
better you are. Bigger IS better. When you drill a rotor full of holes,
you remove quite a bit of material, and drop the surface area under the
pad. This places greater heat stress on what's left, and this is one of
the reasons why cross-drilled rotors tend to warp so fast. While there
is an increase in COOLING surface area, this is overshadowed by the
other factors.
2.Since the internal webbing is only drilled through occasionally, it is
usually necessary to re-balance the assembly. Gas slots are only .050"
deep, and there are only three grooves per side. Significantly less mass
is removed, preserving the brakes' ability to absorb heat. This is
especially helpful for autocrosses and driver's schools where rotor
warping is common.
3.The entire pad is swept as the groove passes, as opposed to only where
the holes would pass. This greatly enhances wet weather performance, and
allows removal of the brake backing plates, almost doubling the airflow
to the rotors.
4.Because the slots do not go all the way through the rotor, the
structural integrity is much greater, and in fact approaches a stock
rotor.
5.The depth of the groove makes an excellent visual wear indicator. When
the rotors are worn to the point that the grooves are almost gone, it's
time for new rotors!
*Add air ducts that direct air onto the rotors. These can replace your
fog lights, or can be mounted under the car. Just be aware of ground
clearance.
*For the real brake-addicted, add water cooling. I fog water into the
back side of the rotors which have the aforementioned rotor hats with a
separate windshield washer motor. This pump runs continously on the
track. With these simple modifications you can vastly increase your
stock brake's performance without spending huge money.
P.S., don't forget the importance of the driver! What you have for
brakes is only about as important as HOW you use them. If you brake
properly, you can more than double your brake component life and use
them harder in the mean time. But that is a completely different
subject.
Morgan Smith
91 GVR4 #527
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:22:36 -0500 (EST)
From: "Nathan T. Pharr" <[email protected]>
Subject: GVR4 H&R springs/ other GVR stuff
Message-ID: <#31>
Hello all,
Well, after waiting forever and a day for H&R to decide whether or
not they would build another run of springs for the GVR4, they have now
decided to change their criteria and demand more springs be ordered to get
them to make a run. I'm not impressed with H&R's business dealings at the
moment, but oh well. Now they're saying that they need a minimum if 25
orders, which we're currently trying to change to a lower number, like 15.
The next info that I want to let everyone know about who is interested in
this deal is that after all this time, NOW they tell me that it will take
two months from the date the ordered is placed to get the springs. The
list price on the springs is over $300, but our price will be right around
the $240-250 area, and maybe $10 to ship them. I still have the names of
the people who have mailed me about this in the past, and I will try to
contact each of you to see if you are still interested, but it would make
my life much easier if all interested parties would mail me with a short
note telling me that, "Yes, I'm still interested."
Other GVR stuff: We went to the track on Sunday, and man was it warm.
At least 65 and sunny at Atco Raceway. I was experiencing boost leaks all
over my intercooler piping, so I could not hold more than 18-20psi of
boost. The best pass the car made out of three good passes was 12.64 @
109.3. I was somewhat disappointed with this, since the best pass the car
made on the 16G was better than this, but I did not shift as hard on
Sunday since I've been away from the track for a while, and with boost not
holding, I lost power in spoolup and not being able to hold pressure. God
only knows how much power I was losing.
My roommate, Harry Blanchard, had his GVR out despite some problems.
We are currently trying to troubleshoot a wicked hesitation it has right
when he hits the throttle. We have swapped out many parts, to no avail.
We have a few more ideas to check before we head back to Atco on Sunday,
but he ran decent last week even with all of the problems. With a 1.99
short time (yikes; the car has gotten mid 1.7s) he ran 13.57 @ 102.x mph.
The car has a VPC and 16G on it, which makes it sound like a slow time,
but the car still has a cat on it and the car is probably only running
about 70% of its potential right now. Our plans are to get it just
running RIGHT first, then see how fast he can go, and then we have a few
more parts waiting in the wings to bring it down to where it should be. I
have the feeling that since that car still has the nice ultra soft stock
suspension, which in a Galant makes for unbelievable short times when
launched right, will pull some VERY nice numbers when it runs right. I'm
enjoying working on a car where I can eliminate the driver as a problem,
since I've seen him drive it.
Well, I've taken up enough of your time. H&R deal is still going,
but taking forever and a day. And remember NE folks, SUNDAY SUNDAY
SUNDAY
at ATCO RACEWAY! :-)
Nate
GVR4
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 07:35:47 -0600
Message-ID: <#32>
(97 Manual indicates starter cut off with alarm...)
>
>
>
>
Well, for whatever it's worth, whatever the service manual says, at
least on my 97 Eclipse GSX, it ain't true. There aibn't no starter
cut-out. My alarm kept going off, and I just drove the car away to
not annoy my neighbors...
Pretty annyoing aint it? To turn off the alarm, try the UNLOCK button
on your key fob, or lock/unlock the door with your key.
I noticed that when it's really cold outside, the locking mechanism
tends to get flaky and even though I unlock the door with my key, the
alarm goes off. I'm guessing that it doesn't make the full contact to
tell the alarm that the key was used properly.
Anyway, that's two votes now, one from a '96 AWD Talon and one from a
'97 GSX that debunks the starter cutoff theory.
Maybe we can insist on DSM giving us all some upgraded alarms since they
advertise the car alarms as having the cutoff.
Jim '96 AWD Talon
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 07:47:23 -0600
Subject: Re: New Car Pricing in Cyberspace
Message-ID: <#33>
>
>
>
>
Try WWW.AUTOBYTEL.COM or WWW.CABLECARS.COM... there are other
services out there as well. I think the dealer pays them a commision
if the car is purchased as a result of your contract through their
web service.
First off, autobytel, carprice, and all the other ones out there are
GREAT services. It costs you nothing, there's no commitment, and the
dealer calls you up with a firm offer, usually $100-$200 over invoice
for a car with no rebates. I highly recommend going this route if you
are buying or leasing a new car with no trade in.
Secondly, if you have a trade in, you WILL get screwed. Sure, they give
you a no haggle price on the new car, but they have lots of play on your
trade in value. Do yourself a favor and sell your car on your own. As
an example, my '96 AWD Talon that had a sticker price of almost $26,000,
only had a trade-in offer of $12,000 after 2 years! If I sold it on my
own, I could probably get at least $15,000. Of course, since you only
pay taxes on the difference between the new car price and your trade in,
the offer of $12,000 actually works out to about $13,000.
Thirdly, the dealers do not pay a commission to these services. They
pay them a monthly subscription rate. It comes out of their advertising
costs. It's basically just another advertising outlet for them. After
all, it brings in customers that won't waste their time since the
customer is already educated and knows what they want. Their goal is to
get you in, sell your the car in as little time as it takes, and you're
back on the road again.
Jim '96 AWD Talon
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:54:46 EST
From: Btalont <[email protected]>
Subject: PMS....my $.02
Message-ID: <#34>
"you can be sure they(Extreme) are not running the same version of the PMS
that you are"...
Well...as many of you know, I am a big defender of the PMS. Yes, Extreme has a
differently "calibrated" PMS, they use a different mass air meter, they are
also using a different ignition and some other different tweaks.
The bottom line there is if you want to use a different mass air meter,
Doug(at EFI Systems) will work with you to make it happen. Different
injectors, he'll get you a new promm. When changes or improvements are made
to
the programming, he will send you upgraded promms...at no charge. If you have
a
problem, he will spend time with you on the phone, for hours if necessary, to
guide you through a fix.
Try that with HKS. Nope, they aren't going to give you the time of day. Want
to run bigger injectors with your VPC...tough luck. They aren't going to help
you. Ask Dave B, HKS's VPC biggest cheerleader. Data logging, forget it with
the VPC or F-CON. Control your timing, know what you injector pulse width or
duty cycle is, read your O2 voltage...nope...not with HKS. My biggest beef with
the VPC...no mass air which is far superior to speed density imho.
As far as I'm concerned, the PMS gives you superior ability to manipulate the
fuel and ignition system of anything out there short of a full stand alone EFI
system like an Electromotive or Haltech. Yes, it requires a learning curve and
time to develop the tuning of the PMS for your particular car but so do the
stand alone systems which are difficult to program too. Lastly, I don't recall
anyone trying to tune their set up on a dyno where changes can be made and
immediately see the results. Tuning at the strip or on the road is more
difficult.
Apparently "your results may vary"...ok. Both camps have arguments and
results to back them up. I for one, will continue to recommend the PMS.
Brian Hood
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 09:26:14 -0500
Subject: RE: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Message-ID: <#35>
Dave Larsen wrote:
>I have noticed that when I'm driving on slippery roads that my 92 AWD will
>get VERY unstable. Admittedly, it is time for new rear tires, but...
Dave, do yourself a favor and get the new tires. When my tires are worn
out, my Talon slides on wet roads like butter in a hot frying pan. A
couple years ago I remember hydroplaning when I was only going 30 MPH and
slowing for a stoplight. In fact, my whole car got sideways.
When I put on the new tires, they stuck like glue in the wet and snow.
I'll never let my tires get that bald again before I replace them.
Michael Kline
90 TSi AWD
"Pittsburgh Steeler Black"
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 08:17:02 -0600
Subject: porsche turbo timer
Message-ID: <#36>
>I used to have a 944 turbo before I picked up my Talon AWD. As I recall
>the Porche had an electric pump that would come on when you shut the
engine
>off. This pump would circulate coolant through the turbo to cool it to a
>specified temperature and then shut off.
This system already exists. It's called a Boda turbo lube. Summit racing
has /had them. I don't know anything about them other than they circulate
oil after the car is off. There are also products such as as pnematic oil
accumulators that can be used for both pre and post lube. There is also an
electric pump called pre-luber that can circulate oil for the whole engine
turbo included for both startup and shutdown. I have heard problems with
reliability, however, and this last item is not cheap. >400$. Hope this helps.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:38:09 -0500
From: Michael Breslin <[email protected]>
Subject: BG Synchroshift for Sale
Message-ID: <#37>
Same as it ever was...
3 quarts/$29 shipped in the lower 48.
All proceeds will go to the Todd Day M3 fund.
E-mail if interested and send check (made out to Michael Breslin) to:
Michael Breslin
BFD Inc.
1275 Kinnear Rd.
Columbus, OH 43212
That is all...
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 10:06:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Sarcasm?!?
Message-ID: <#38>
Hank, I am sure that Mario wasn't trying to be mean.
He seems like a nice guy and gives good war stories and good info on the
digest. It has always been my policy that it is better to laugh about
misfortune in your own life than to cry about it and he seems to have
the same philosophy. I try not to joke with other people unless I know
they feel the same way. I hope that you can look at this and forgive
any hard feelings you have for a fellow DSMer who I am sure meant no
harm.
Later,
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 09:12:00 -0600
Subject: Eclipse Awards
Message-ID: <#39>
>From the Dallas Morning News Sports Section for 1/9/98:
"The Eclipse Award winners announced Thursday included a quartet of Lone
Star Park competitors..."
Anyway, the Eclipse Awards are given to the top horse trainers, owners,
jockeys and horses for the year.
Nice thing to know that the Eclipse Award has to do with "horsepower"!
Just another product/event using the great Eclipse name.
Shawn Murphy
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 10:11:57 -0500
From: Dong Shin <[email protected]>
Subject: [GVR4]Galant VR-4 Registry
Message-ID: <#40>
I've created a Galant VR-4 registry a short while ago. If you have
a GVR4, please register it at
http://www.wam.umd.edu/~salant/GVR4/register.html
Dong Shin
91 Galant VR-4 1901 of 2000
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 10:39:07 -0500
Subject: Re: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Message-ID: <#41>
Dave, we don't have computers controlling our torque distribution from
front to back. When your back wheels start to spin due to not having
enough tread you get that "twitch" to the side, when it corrects itself
that is because the AWD system sends more torque to the front wheels and
the back ones stop spinning on the ice/snow and the twitch is corrected.
If you were driving a RWD car that twitch would make you let off the
throttle (if you knew what you are doing in a RWD) and if you stayed on
the throttle you would swap ends in a hurry or go fishtailing into a
ditch while trying to recover.
Either rotate the tires (if the back ones aren't to bad) or replace the
fronts and put the ones that are currently on the front on the back.
Later,
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 07:36:54 -0800 (PST)
From: "White " "Tornado " <[email protected]>
Subject: I love this list!
Message-ID: <#42>
I just posted my about my experience with the
C5 Vette to alt.autos.corvette. One guy
said that the Vette must have been pushing
my Talon down the track! Funny that I dialed in
> .5 sec faster than him!
Those v-8 guys are being very insulting towards my
accomplishment! (e.g. beating every v-8 powered
street car there) Even suggesting that I am lieing!
They are beginning to hurt my feelers!
Man you should have seen the little posse of teenage
punks that I attracted after my first run against a
396SS Chevelle! I was a little aggressive on the
launch and the traction surface of the track was
poor. I proceeded to smoke ALL FOUR tires! Of course
after my tire smoking the Chevelle took an easy two lengths on me from
the start. Of course I got out
of the boost hooked the tires back up and
proceeded to beat him to the end of the track by a
handy 10 car lengths. These little punks were
awestruck, as they (Neon, GrandAm) were taking an
a$$ whipping from the 8-cyls all night. They found
vindication in the pounding that the Tornado mobile
was delivering to the local muscle cars!
Seriously. This list saved me from making a huge
mistake. I posted about getting a studdering
fuel cut at high RPM, so hogged out the bottom
honeycomb on the MAS (or is it MAF? - whatever)
Cool right? Then I saw that little flow adjuster
screw thingy. I thought, if a little flow is good
then more is better! So I backed it all the way out.
The car idled poorly but ran like a bat out of hadies.
So I jump on the archive searcher and see all kinds
of posts about melted pistons and valves associated
with backing this screw out! So I take the unit
apart and screw it back in. Adjust the boost to a
sane 18lbs, and proceed to play v-8 whip a$$ all
night long!
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 07:38:04 PST
From: "Dan Sides" <[email protected]>
Subject: low power
Message-ID: <#43>
FolksLessee if I can make this long story short...
Am picking up my 92 awd talon today from the
body shop. Without going into detail, suffice it
to say that I am picking it up with knowledge that
some engine work was not done correctly and that it
will be to my advantage to diagnose it myself.
I drove it a coupla days ago and here are the
characteristics:
~Getting terrible gas mileage
~Almost no low end power.
~Builds boost just fine.
~Top end power is pretty good.
~I think that I saw white smoke/steam from the
front of the car starting from a relatively mild
lauch (from around 3-4K rpm). Not enough power
to call it a launch though really.
~Kinda rough idle.
The car has a Buscher exhaust system, 16G, cut away
air can, and Mark H. boost controller set to around
13.5 lbs. Any ideas here?
Dan
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 10:18:39 -0600
Subject: Why worry about Killing the Talon
Message-ID: <#44>
Why worry about Chrysler killing the Talon. If Mitsubichi continues with
the rumored plans for the 3g DSM the car will die on its own.
I race a 2g Talon and on the track I get blown away by 1g's on the straights.
My only edge is my better suspension. I can out brake and out corner the
1g's. Botom line is that our average track times are almost identical.
If I had a 2g car with a 1g engine it would dominate our Solo 1 race series.
Putting a 1g suspension with a 2g motor as rumored for the 3g is just dumb.
I won't buy one.
Victor
95 Talon Tsi
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:24:27 EST
BlueTalon2 <[email protected]>
Subject: Bell 855sti/Crankshaft Pulley
Message-ID: <#45>
>a really nice (undocumented) feature. The laser
>detector saved my butt last weekend while driving
I also have 855STI. I love it. Not like I speed or anything like that. But I
have noticed that the laser detector goes off constantly when I go past the
local airport here in Tampa. At first I thought it was a speed trap but after
driving past it twice a day everyday I realized it's something to do with the
airport and not the "man". As well the laser detector goes off when I pass two
local television stations that have weather towers. I guess there is some
weather forcasting equipment that bothers it.
I also second Dean's remarks on the crankshaft pulley. It's no a bad idea to
replace it when you do your timing belt. Mine separated a few months ago
while
racing a 911 and cost me not only all my belts but my a/c clutch as well since
the a/c belt got caught up in the pulley when it rolled. Has anyone ever
replaced the clutch w/o removing the compressor?
Mario
Porsche Killer
90 Talon Tsi AWD 112k
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 98 09:41:11 PST
From: [email protected] (Wallace Tam)
Subject: torque, and how it's not related to gas consumption
Message-ID: <#46>
Hi guys,
I have a 5.0, and it's peak torque is at 3000, but it also
has a 2.73 rear end, which puts it's cruising rpm at 15002000. I think VTEC hondas have peak torques of like 5500,
and I seriously doubt the honda engineers want anybody
cruising near that for good mpg.
Good mpg occurs when you get the maximum HP/(grams of fuel
used) or what's called specific fuel consumption, as someone
else has already said. Max torque has to do with HP/rpm
at wot. When was the last time you cruised at wot? Why would
a condition that only occurs at wot have anything to do with
cruising mpg?
I've worked on hybrid electric vehicles, where they want the
engine to work at it's most efficient place, and I've look
at efficiency graphs for diff engines. And you know what?
The units for efficiency for an engine is HP/gram fuel used,
NOT ft-lbs. Another thing is that it's not just one rpm
that is most efficient, it's more like a contour map, with rpm
on one axis, and throttle position on another axis where there
is a most efficient region. This region is usually close to wot,
and mid rpms... but it is a region, NOT a particular rpm. It gets
real complicated when you factor in all the drag forces, because
each point in this region represents diff HP's, so then you have
to pick the right gearing to get the right hp for a specific
cruise speed... blah blah blah...
Anyways, enough blathering for one day...
Wallace, wall97awd
-----------------------------Date: 9 Jan 98 11:49 CST
From: Roy Stedman <[email protected]>
Subject: re: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Message-ID: <#47>
>It seems as though the rear end is just sort of floating along behind me
>and it gets sort of twitchy. ... The twitch is sort of like the rear end
>moving to the right a little bit ...
Yeah, my 91 AWD does this. Usually in heavy rain with way-worn
not-so-good-in-the-rain-anyway tires. It's pretty scary. Feels like
you're about to lose the car any second.
Roy
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 10:56:03 -0700
Subject: starter cutout
Message-ID: <#48>
There is one on the 93 factory alarm, but it only cuts out the starter,
not the engine power. You can still push-start it.
Sometimes a connector in the circuit gets loose, so if your starter
mysteriously quits, try that first.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:08:50 -0600
Subject: Porsche, HTML Digest
Message-ID: <#49>
Porsches and most German/European cars will continue to run the cooling
fan even after the car and engine is shut off. I used to have a Scirocco
and during hot weather the fan would stay on and sometimes even come on
a while after the car had been shut off. This was very unnerving when
working under the hood. Since then I have always made sure to disconnect
the fan on all my cars while working under the hood. You can never be
too safe.
As far as an oil circulating pump, I've never heard of that. Nothing to
cool down that big turbo in my old Scirocco anyways! :P
I have tried repeatedly to subscribe to the HTML digest. I've searched
the back issues and tried every suggestion. I still cannot get it to
work. I'm using IE4 and Outlook Express. I've heard that this should
work but I can't seem to get signed up. Can someone email me detailed
instructions on how to sign up. Or even email me an exact copy of the
email you sent and the address you sent it to.
Todd, are you working on this and if so where are the instructions? I'm
really anxious to see the format. Can one include pictures or diagrams
in their submissions or would that create too large of a file every day?
[Pictures won't be allowed. We have to cater to the lowest common
denominator, which means pure text. -talon mgr]
Regards
Dave Scott
'90 TSi AWD
FISSSSHHHHHHTTTTTAAAAAAIIIIIILLLLLIIINNNNGGG!
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 10:02:52 -0800
From: Gregory Carlsen <[email protected]>
Subject: Responses...Race info...
Message-ID: <#50>
Hello all...I wanted to make a few replys to some people and give some
info on a race I plan on attending in September.
Jeff Fritz made a good post about the Magnussen-Moss Warranty act. I
hope people took the time to read it. It is basically stating that if
the dealer says "sorry, it's modified," they are full of it. It is the
law. Make sure it works for you...it is why it was written.
VPC vs PMS
I have never had a PMS but know someone who has. After hearing his
horror stories, I am glad I have a VPC as I don't have time to tune. I
am running a 20g with 550cc and the only problem I have with it is it is
cold blooded. Once warmed up, it works perfectly. No dragster idle, no
surges, just good happy motoring. It is quite an accomplishment to get
into the 10s with either computer.
Kurt (crazy alignment)
go to a different alignment shop. Someone that incompetant should not be
working on your car. There is two eccentric bolts on each side in the
rear. The trailing arm has one for toe in/out and the upper control arm
has one for camber. The front is non adjustable without camber plates.
G-tech
Does anyone in the northwest have one of these things. The factory is
sold out right now and I really want to get a baseline of what I am
running.
War Stories
I only have morons in grandma cars that mess with me. I just let them go
on there way feeling good that the sportscar didn't want to mess with
there car. I did have a run in with a 300gt vr4 a while back. She (ya, a
girl) was riding my butt hard and we came to a stop light. I nailed as
did she. I kept crawling away from her til about 100. Then there was
another light. She turned. Two more blocks down the road, a cop pulled
along side me, looked over and just shook his head. Must have been in
the traffic we left behind us. Good thing he didn't measure our speed!
Race...
I was watching tv and saw the Gambler Run 200 in Elko, Nevada. This is a
single car event that is run on the roads in Nevada. You have a
navigator to help you to keep an average time from point A to point B.
It was like 50 miles each way. You are classed by what mph you plan on
averaging. These ran anywhere from 80mph - 140mph - unlimited. These
guys are running within one second of the set time. The show mentioned
the Elko Chamber of Commerce being the contact people. Well, I emailed
them and the told me that it will be held on Sept. 10-13. I plan on
attending as it looks like it would be a blast. Good clean safe fun
(kinda safe, there was two accidents from people going into corners to
hot - one guy flipped, the other guy spun out and destroyed his
underside). If anyone is interested in the contact information I
received, let me know.
Gregory Carlsen
'92 TSi AWD (not a '94 as Farzaan mistyped)
-----------------------------Date: 09 Jan 1998 11:34:18 -0600
From: "Scandura, Michael (AZ77)" <[email protected]>
Subject: re: (2g) Factory Alarm
Message-ID: <#51>
I was able to start and drive away my 96 while the alarm was blaring a few
days after I took delivery. I didn't know that the remote wouldn't kill the
alarm while it was sounding and the only way is to put the key in the door
and turn it (stupid design I think - I was expecting the remote to cancel
the alarm as in previous cars, especially my Dad's Eagle Vision). Anyway,
after reading the driver's manual (and its been awhile) I think it says that
if the ignition key is used to start the car while the alarm is activated,
this will override the ignition kill, and presumably any other way of
circumventing the ignition key (hotwiring, etc.) will result in ignition
lock. I'm not quite sure how this could be, but I do seem to remember
reading this, after an embarrassing flight through a neighborhood!
Hope this helps,
Mike
Sorry to see the Talon go, but proud of our history and uniqueness, and
always excited about my car. It will be better off in the long run, as far
as I'm concerned with my experiences and their "direction", Chrysler will
always be #3. Mitsu will definitely be my first choice for my next car.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:37:50 -0600
Subject: Air Can Mods Made Simple. Remove the can!
Message-ID: <#52>
At least on a 1G I don't know why you would not just remove the whole can?
Why go to the effort of cutting it up? Around here most of us just remove
the can. The clips that hold the can to the MAS will still hold the filer
onto the MAS once it is removed. And if you are worried about it floating
around unsupported you could (do as I did) and velcro it to the body of the
car. Works fine. Takes 10 mins. And if you don't like what you have done
can always put the can back on...
Bryan.t
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 12:40:37 -0600
From: Stan Moskal <[email protected]>
Subject: {2g}ETACS-ECU
Message-ID: <#53>
I just saw TurboMikes 1/6 post(yes,behind as usual) about the
ETACS-ECU and I also noticed alot of recent talk about getting rid of the
factory alarm. I have an extra ETACS-ECU for a 1995 Eagle Talon Tsi
that I would be willing to sell for half of what I paid for the new one. I
was having an overhead light/radio preset problem about a year ago and
one of the things that Dad replaced was the ETACS-ECU. It turned out
not to solve the problem(the problem was that there was an open
between one of the fusible links and one of the inputs to the
ETACS-ECU), so the old one is still good. Search the archives under my
name or overhead lights problem for more info. If there is any interest let
me know and I will dig up what I paid for it. $120 comes to mind. Have a
good one
Stan
P.S. On the way to work today nothing broke.
P.P.S. Sorry, forgot to state the obvious about the ETACS-ECU, it's for a
car without the factory alarm.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 14:18:49 -0500
From: "Oktavian F." <[email protected]>
Subject: Conquest/Starion Intercooler
Message-ID: <#55>
>Hey all, I finally got my hands on a Starion/Conquest Intercooler.
>First, they are not all the same. From what I understand, the first two
>years had no intercooler, the next couple years they did, but it was
>smaller. The intercooler you want is from an 88 or 89 model year
>Starion/Conquest turbo.
Well this isen't exactly a DSM post but since someone brought up the above
then I guess it is now! hehe :) Okay well I have a 89 conquest and I think I
can shed some light from what I read, saw, etc. :) Not sure about the exact
years below 87 about what had and didn't have
a I/C but the 88-89 intercooler is the same size just supposedly more
effiecient then the 87 even though they look exactly alike! So if you guys
have a choice then do get a 88-89 I/C! later
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 14:30:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Re: Air Filter Problems
Message-ID: <#56>
>I read about a different way to modify the Air can for the cars on a
>Conquest/Starion web page. Instead of removing the air can or chopping
>it all to hell you can use some graph paper and lay out a grid on the
>stock can and drill a metric-butt-tonn of holes in the can.
>I don't know how much this would improve air flow, but for all the guys
>who complain about a chopped can giving air flow that is to turbulent
>and causes idle problems this is a possible solution.
Well I have a 89 conquest and have tried this and it works great but you don't
really need to make a grid, etc. Just drill the holes on the bottom or front
bottom, etc.
and it seems to pull in a bit more air! :) So it should work for you DSM
guys too! :) Good luck!
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 12:47:12 -0700
From: "Paul G. Tobey" <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: buying cars
Message-ID: <#57>
>Try WWW.AUTOBYTEL.COM or WWW.CABLECARS.COM... there are other
services
>out there as well. I think the dealer pays them a commision if the car is
>purchased as a result of your contract through their web service.
I recently purchased a new car (Chevrolet Malibu LS) for my wife through
Auto-By-Tel. It was the easiest transaction for a major piece of equipment
I've ever experienced. The price was $100 over dealer invoice (I verified
it with the new car pricing services on the Web), plus destination ($495)
and license (~$500). Everything was handled over the phone with the Fleet
Manager. A factory order was required, but they never even cashed our
deposit check (we ordered a 1998 model in September, so it took two
months). We went up to the dealership when the car arrived, wrote them a
check, filled out the title paperwork, and were on the road in under two
hours, including 'training' on how to use the radio, open the sunroof, etc.
The way Auto-By-Tel works is that the dealer pays ABT a subscription price
and, in return, they get referrals from the phone and the Web (I used the
Web to request a quote from ABT). Supposedly, any dealer that subscribes
has agreed to work deals at invoice + X. Unfortunately, the nearest
participating Mitsubishi dealer is 400 miles from here (New Mexico), so
your mileage may vary as far as how convenient things are, but for how easy
it was, I'll drive the 90 miles to Tempe any time.
Paul T.
Tucson
------------------------------
From bouncer Mon Jan 12 13:49:20 1998
for talon-digest-approved on Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:49:20 -0800
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 12:00:02 -0800
Precedence: list
[From the Detroit AutoShow:
"Sports cars were the lead story at today's Mitsubishi press
conference, with a number of production models scattered around
the display. While Pierre Gagnon, executive vice president and chief
operating officer of Mitsubishi North America, read off a list of all
their competitor vehicles that are no longer in production, he
assured the crowd of journalists that Mitsubishi has no plans to
leave the sports-car market."
Good news...
-talon mgr]
Today's Topics:
1) Matt Jannusch
2) Byers, Brian
RTP: Low Voltage [2G,T]
3) Josh Garner
Battery Disconnection and forgetting Idle
4) Jesse Hustad
Derek Wang, Stereo stuff
5) Bill Strutton
RE: '92 AWD slippery when wet
6) Scottyhe
crossed drilled rotors
7) Mike K
1g 1.8 L Headers!!!
8) John Shepherd
30 mpg running low 11's
9) Sander O. Pool
[2G] (lack of) alarm engine cut-out
10) Bob Fischer
Re: 2G - Torque, Horsepower and its relation to Ga
11) vandeburg
G60 in third gear
12) Shindley
witty PMS banter
13) HelaFoReal
Throttle body cleaning
14) Gregory Haines
boost values
15) Hanson, Roger
RE: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
16) Sdjewett
re: 2.5" highflow cats
17) Katherine A McClure Shootout 98
18) David Scott
Poor traction, bald tires, HTML digest
20) Rick Santangelo
Re:3G at Detroit Auto Show
22) Steve Basile
Re: cracked brake rotors, pronto spyder
23) Chris Holmes
broken exhaust studs
24) Kyle Zingg
Re: [2G, T] Warped Rotors, 2G Tbody elbow needed
25) Snakeyes2
Wanted: small side body panel
26) Shindley
retarded timing
27) EclpseGST
DSM spotted in VA + radio bracket + wire mesh
28) vandeburg
Strut Tower Bar
29) vandeburg
Joke?
30) Aaron Woods
check engine light
32) ABThomason
[1G, T] How to crank engine without starting?
33) Maethwyn Riemann
That darn little screw....
34) Dennis Wong
help re: cause of "beeping" sound?
35) Michael
Laser? fake exhausts, turbo housing cooling, MAS s
36) Dan Coughlin
Re: The Talon Replacement
37) T. Tate
Scanning all DSM Brochures - Missing Some
38) Chris Holmes
war story and a FWD question...
39) N.B.Camene
track war story?/fog light quest.
40) Robert Deis
3-gauge A-pillar?
41) J. Chris Roth
Gonna get a new turbo - broke the old one
42) ics
1GNT
43)
44)
45)
46)
47)
48)
49)
51)
52)
53)
54)
56)
57)
58)
59)
60)
61)
62)
63)
64)
65)
66)
67)
68)
69)
70)
71)
72)
73)
74)
75)
76)
Brian Byers
2.5" flex section, High-flow cats [RTP]
Brian Byers
15000 Checkup [RTP]
Kevin Shimp
David Brode's upper I/C pipe.
Mr El Loco
Possible Race Day
Mark Rieb
GVR-4 Gauge Pods
Paul Rajesh Estevez Group Purchase of 16G's; Profec solutions; 1G ques
Sam Merritt
[1G] Fastest 16G
Devil Bat
Man these Vette/F-body guys are MEAN!
Jeff Brinkerhoff
Repair manuals 1G
LupisLair
PMS vs. VPC
Jardon
Taking out Intake Manifolds, porting.
Oktavian F.
Wierd Question
Jim
{1G,T}
traeglmorf
Results of the 15000 checkup
TurboMike
starter kill/replacing ETACS-ECU to disable alarm
anDrew Yamamoto
GVR4 T, ALL how to get the most outta the 4G63BT
Brice Abell
AWD fear - Loose Rear suspension
Frank Mowry
RE : PMS vs VPC
Paul Mrozowski
Detroit Int. Auto Show
Warren C Daniel
16G Install
Dennis Grant
Detroit Auto Show and other Ramblings
Tome
rotors
Tome
steering racks
Tome
Re: engine stumbles
Tim Cade
1g upgrade exhaust
markp
broken exh. manifold studs
SpeedRacer
Parts for sale...looking for PMS
SpeedRacer
92 GVR4 for sale
Dennison Lee
Re: [1G,T,AWD] Missing bolt
Oktavian F.
Wierd Question Part 2
Andrew Bienhaus
3G Concept Car
Andrew Bienhaus
Spoilers, Pipes and Mits in Canada
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 98 15:37:22 -0600
Message-ID: <#1>
>I have noticed that when I'm driving on slippery roads that my 92 AWD will get
>VERY unstable. Admittedly, it is time for new rear tires, but...
>Is it possible that the computers that control the AWD are engaging and
>disengaging the rears when it might not be a good idea?
Rear tires would be a great idea to start off with, if the ones you have are
toast. Other than that, an AWD alignment is probably in order. There's no
computer that controls how the AWD works, so you are looking at either
alignment or tires. My '93 GSX has been extremely stable on icy roads here
in Minnesota, so it isn't something inherent in the cars...
Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
'90 Eclipse GS-2.0
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:57:29 -0600
Subject: RTP: Low Voltage [2G,T]
Message-ID: <#2>
Josh,
I had a similiar problem on my 97 GS-T. My radar detector does not do
the cool voltage thing, but it would turn its self off and back on when
I would use the brakes or roll up the windows...really anything that
pulled power from the battery. Needless to say it was a bad battery.
It had been bad for a while, but after playing the radio while drying
the car off one afternoon, I got the battery to a level so low, it would
not charge up again. Take it somewhere and have it checked out. If you
were having an alternator problem, the car would not be running
correctly, I.e. dying after it cranked, etc. Take it to the dealer if
its under the 3yr/36,000 thingy, 'cause they replaced mine for free!
C. Brian Byers
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 16:29:19 -0600
From: Josh Garner <[email protected]>
Subject: Battery Disconnection and forgetting Idle
Message-ID: <#3>
I don't know if I am stupid for asking but whenever I disconnect the
battery for whatever reason the car seems to want to stall whenever I
put the clutch in. This usally happens for a while(depends on how much
driving I do) and then everything is back to normal. Is this the ECU
re-learning the idle speed or is it just my car? Is there any way to
speed this process up
[Read http://www.tmo.com/faq/diagport/970915.htm -talon mgr]
Josh Garner
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:32:39 -0700 (MST)
From: Jesse Hustad <[email protected]>
Subject: Derek Wang, Stereo stuff
Message-ID: <#4>
I posted a few days ago about a friend of mine that was ripped off on
some wheels by a guy named Adam or Derek Wang of Saratoga, CA. I guess a
few people thought I was talking about Derek Wang of NW DSM that goes to
Univ. of Washington. They are two different people which is why I said
where he is from. Sorry about the mix-up but I am just trying to keep
anyone else from getting ripped off.
Thanks to everyone on the digest that responded to my questions about the
stereo hookup. I am going to see how it sounds with the 4" speakers
disconnected and then reconnected. Someone mentioned that it may sound
better with the 4" speakers disconnected even though there is some type
of a built in crossover.
Jess
90GSX
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 15:12:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Strutton <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: '92 AWD slippery when wet
Message-ID: <#5>
To Dave, who posted about the '92 AWD...
On my '91 TSI/AWD I am experiencing the same symptoms. When wet, the
rear 'kicks' out quite violently to the right & then back even at speeds
as low as 35mph. Very scary. I only found one reference to this in the
archives & e-mailed the poster. He said that the car had been aligned
just before this started & that it turned out to be poor alignment as
verified by a 'trusted' shop. It was further determined that the
original shop's machines had the wrong specs for the AWD programmed from
the factory.
My problems seem to have started shortly after Firestone aligned the car,
so I'm hopeful that another alignment will fix the problem. BTW, my
car's rearend also 'hops' right severly when going over a bump or rough
surface...
Anyone recommend a good alignment shop in Arlington or Dallas ?
Bill Strutton
'91 wht AWD/TSI
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 18:49:45 EST
Subject: crossed drilled rotors
Message-ID: <#6>
Kevin Brown writes of cracking problems he had with Stillen cross drilled
rotors. I had the same problem with a set that I used on the street and for a
weekend at Road America. I now use only Mitsu stock rotors with aftermarket
pads.
Does anyone know of a cross drilled rotor that holds up for higher speed track
events such as Road America, Mid Ohio, etc...? I would be interested to hear
from anyone who has found a cross drilled rotor that they have not had
problems with. I'm not talking about hard braking on the street but repeated
hard braking in racing (track) conditions.
Thanks for the help
Scott
'95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 16:38:56 -0800
Subject: 1g 1.8 L Headers!!!
Message-ID: <#7>
After calling Hotshot for 1.8 L headers today, I learned that they ARE once
again considering making them. He's just wondering what kind of market
there is out there for them. If you have a 1.8 L, please call them and
request them to make them. He said if he gets enough calls, they will go
into production SOON!
What they need is someone with a 1.8L, who lives near them (So.Cal) to drop
their car off. Please call them, and request the headers... (818)579-9960
they are on the verge of production!
Thanks
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 19:56:48 -0500
From: "John Shepherd" <[email protected]>
Subject: 30 mpg running low 11's
Message-ID: <#8>
With all this recent talk about people getting bad gas mileage I figured
I'd share my experiences. On my last long trip we went to Oklahoma for
the shootout in Oct. I was surprised to get my best gas mileage ever!
My girlfriend and I met Dave B in St. Lois then we followed him the rest of
the way there. Let me tell you an enclosed trailer with a car in it didn't slow
him
down a bit. I remember doing 90 mph for a long time following him. I think it
was around 4k on my tach. Wellmost of the way down I was getting around 29
mpg
until we got to OK where it was 90+ degrees so I used my A/C the whole time
and it dropped to 27 mpg. We raced Fri and I ran a little off due to the heat, my
best was 11.3, then we left Sat. Well on the way home I did it ,I ran 401 miles
on a tank before refueling and it came out to 30.5 mpg then got 30 mpg on the
next tank also. So this gives everyone an excuse to hop up there car : )
Mike Bryant , Yes the 94 trannys are worth it if you going to race and yes you
can use the shaft from a 90 and put it in a 94 if you want to reuse the transfer
case. I've done it several times.
My ACT clutch has been perfect so far with around 30-40 passes I would
recommend to anyone considering a real clutch.
later
John Shepherd
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:29:32 -0800
From: "Sander O. Pool" <[email protected]>
Subject: [2G] (lack of) alarm engine cut-out
Message-ID: <#9>
>Well, for whatever it's worth, whatever the service manual says, at least
>on my 97 Eclipse GSX, it ain't true. There aibn't no starter cut-out. My
>alarm kept going off, and I just drove the car away to not annoy my
>neighbors...
I was mucking with the factory alarm a while back and noticed
in the '95 schematic that there is indeed a cut-out relay but
it is _in parallel_ with the clutch switch. I.e. if you depress
the cluctch it effectively bypasses the open relay that the
alarm uses to 'disable' the starter. Perhaps they fixed this
on '95+, don't know. Also, this circuitry is different for
automatic tranny equiped DSM and might work OK there but I
did not check to make sure.
If people care I can lookup the page number and give more detail.
Sander (95 GSX)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 20:29:00 -0700
From: "Bob Fischer" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: 2G - Torque, Horsepower and its relation to Gas Consumption
Message-ID: <#10>
HI all,
Just have a simple comment about the how to locate the best rpm and gear to
achieve the best mileage.
Install a vacuum gauge (or in our case a boost/vacuum gauge).
How is does this help? Well your optimal mileage is going to be the point
that you can maintain speed while achieving vacuum. HUH?
Try this: accelerate to 60 mph in 5th, set your cruise, after your vacuum
stabilizes note your vacuum. Do the same at 55 and 65 using the same gear.
Now which ever speed gives you the highest vacuum reading is going to give
you the best fuel economy.
Now try this: do the same test at 50 mph in 5th. Then do it again in 4th.
Higher vacuum reading in 4th, right? So at 50 mph 4th gear is more
efficient than 5th (atleast in my 92 awd).
I can't explain the reason comfortably, maybe somebody else can. I've tried
this with all my cars that I had a vacuum gauge in, from a 71 LeMans with a
'66 GTO 389 to my Talon, it always led me to the right speed for that gear
for the best mileage.
Hope this helps somebody.
Bob Fischer
[Another important factor is to keep the pedal steady. Try not to jerk it
rapidly. Delta TPS translates to a big squirt of gas by the ECU. I
consistently score 1-2 mpg higher than my friend under similar conditions
with the same car and same speeds, whether it be my 90 Talon or his 95 M3.
I've found as a passenger that I can feel the car jerk just a tiny bit
every so often when he is driving, especially in some traffic. I try to
keep pedal movement very smooth - this is translating to better MPG.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 23:42:03 -0500
Subject: G60 in third gear
Message-ID: <#11>
Man I wish I saw that road test report, when I raced a G60 I killed him
off the line but I let him go past me after that. He slowed down and I
went to pass him again to prove my point and he nailed it and passed
while I was floored, rather embarassing situation. On my way home my
3rd cydlinder plug wire went bad so I think that might have had
something to do with it. I did the freebie mods put on the Magnecore
8.5's in and I raced a G60 last weekend and beat his a$$ at whatever
speed I wanted. I feel much better now %)
Erick (sleeping much better)
92' TSI A/T
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 00:14:24 -0600
Subject: witty PMS banter
Message-ID: <#12>
This public forum excites some people into saying rude things to
strangers. To these unfortunate few you have my deepest and most sincere
apology. For you, I offer praise of the PMS as the greatest instrument
ever developed by man! Now, can we be friends?
I was but a humble fool and cursed with an automobile that was unlike
any other. Evil crept under its hood on the very day of its manufacture
and placed a performance-limiting curse on the tiny, innocent engine.
Little did I know when I dared to vanquish the curse with an ordinary
PMS that my efforts would go unrequited. Try as I might, only the pain
of failure was my reward.
Then one day a beam of electricity came unto me (it was an e-mail from
Buschur) and I saw truth in the light! I had become wisened with the
knowledge of the HKS ancients from the East. I knew then that only the
mysterious powers of the VPC could render the engine inviolate!
I got one and now the car kicks butt.
The end.
Rick
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 03:05:52 EST
From: HelaFoReal <[email protected]>
Subject: Throttle body cleaning
Message-ID: <#13>
Whats up everyone. I was having problems with my 1st gen dsm. It would die
out and sometimes stall when ever I would press down the clutch or put it into
neutral. I thought it was something really major. But I took it into the mitsu
dealer and all I needed was a new set of plugs and a good throttle body
cleaning. It had alot of carbon buildup. It hasn't run better in I don't know
how long. I'm glad its running so good, but then again I'm pissed that my NGK
Platinum plugs only lasted 11 months. I thought they lasted alot longer then
that... Oh well...I guess the point of my story is that if you got some weird
problems with your car, then have it tuned up. Maybe it'll do the trick?
Later...Jay
by the way, my cars for sale if anyone is interested, goto
www.chicago.tribune.com/autos and click on search for 93 plymouth
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 03:51:29 -0500
Subject: boost values
Message-ID: <#14>
Hello all,
I have a question about the amount of boost I'm getting. I
have the conical air filter, 2.5 HKS cat back and a low
restriction cat, boost solenoid restrictor removed, upper IC
pipe with different 1G BOV (came with the upper IC). Before
the IC & BOV install, but after the exhaust, I would
indicate a peak boost of about 18 psi in 3rd-5th at WOT.
Tonight on the way home I watched the gauge closely. There
was a peak of 20-21psi which would settle at 17-18 with
increased revs. Now it's a little cooler tonight than it
has been lately here (Pittsburgh), but as far as I can
remember, there wasn't that high a boost when the weather
was cooler, so I doubt it's all from the air temp being
lower. Would the upper IC pipe make that much difference?
There wasn't any fuel cut in running up to 100mph. Someone
suggested a boost control to go after the Firebird to
increase psi to about 18. Looks like I'm doing that
already. But I'd kinda expect fuel cut at pressures like
that especially when its cold (30's). Anyone able to
enlighten me?
Greg Haines
PbPedis
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 05:18:32 -0800
From: "Hanson, Roger" <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Message-ID: <#15>
>I have noticed that when I'm driving on slippery roads that my 92 AWD will
>get VERY unstable. Admittedly, it is time for new rear tires, but...
>It seems as though the rear end is just sort of floating along behind me
>and it gets sort of twitchy. ...
>This has happened in heavy rain (probably hydroplaning?) and on snowy and
>icy roads. Road conditions were what I'd consider bad at the time.
You have all the characteristic signs (including the fast wearing rear tires)
of excessive toe-in in your rear suspension. Alot of people see their rear
camber increase when lowering springs are put on the rear of the AWDs.
If you change the camber to the correct specs you find that the toe-in
increases making this twitchyness more pronounced.
You can search the DSM website for methods of camber correction;
kits, washers, shortening the lower control arms, etc. What ever method
you end up using will allow you to decrease the toe-in. When the toe-in
is in spec the AWDs are very stable when road conditions aren't the
best. That's why I own an AWD.
Roger Hanson
'90 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 09:22:57 EST
Subject: re: 2.5" highflow cats
Message-ID: <#16>
Hey guys,
>I'm building a 2.5" Turbo-back system for my '90 AWD. Where can I
>find a 2.5' flex section? Also, any comments on 2.5" High-flow cats
>would be appreciated.
I have the DB 2.5" complete system and love it! It's cheap and works great. I
tried a Dynomax highflow cat for about 3 months and hated it! It dropped my
mileage by an average of 3mpg both city and highway. I also had a hard time
controlling boost again, it would spike and keep falling off. I put the
testpipe back in and lo-and-behold my gas mileage came back along with
steady
boost, set at 18psi.
I didn't see what was so "highflow" about the cat either, looked just like a
stock one inside, only it had 2.5" inlet/outlet. I don't think it was bad
cause it wasn't clogged or anything, it just didn't flow worth a crap. I would
like to run it so I'll be legit on the street, but not with crappy gas mileage
and reduced boost control.
Hope you have better luck, Mines just a paper weight now.
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date:
Sat, 10 Jan 1998 09:48:19 EST
From: [email protected] (Katherine A McClure)
Subject: Shootout 98
Message-ID: <#17>
So when is this year's shootout? I have been reading the back issues of
the digests and came across mention of it. I thought there use to be a
section on the first pages of the digest showing "upcoming events" Am I
crazy or is it not there anymore? Is there going to be another plant tour
this year? Let me know, thanks.
[No one is sending me any "upcoming events" to put there. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 09:13:27 -0600
Subject: Poor traction, bald tires, HTML digest
Message-ID: <#18>
Just thought I would add to the rear end twitching and scary traction: I
have this problem every year at the beginning of winter. When we start
getting glare ice conditions my car will feel like it is about to lose
control at any second. I have to drive very carefully. This is when I
put on my snow tires and get an alignment done. It seems that over the
summer (alignment also done every spring) my alignment goes out of
whack. Anyways, make sure your tires are good and get a 4 wheel
alignment and you should have tremendous confidence in all conditions.
My car is having this poor traction problem right now, of course the ice
storms and heavy snow have something to do with this, or maybe its the
125/95r16 tire I've got on the back...I get my replaced snow tire today.
Todd, what is the reason for no pics or diagrams on the HTML Digest? If
people can receive the HTML then why not submit in HTML version? For the
people out there who only want the text version, just remove the pics or
replace them with links to the pics on a web page. I think the
possibilities here could be quite impressive. I already send HTML email
to my clients with "HTML" versions of AutoCAD and PRO/E drawings as well
as jpeg images for better communications. I know that in a lot of cases
I could add a pic or a drawing to better describe what I'm talking
about. As long as people don't go overboard on large pics and files then
I think it could work. You could even impose a size restriction.
[The work involved for such a project makes this idea prohibitive.
Also, the load on my company's web connection would be too great.
-talon mgr]
Just food for thought.
BTW: I still can't get the HTML Digest!
[If you can't sign up for it, and get all sorts of garbage messages
back, it is because you are sending RICHTEXT or HTML to majordomo,
which he hates. -talon mgr]
Regards
Dave Scott
'90 TSi AWD
3-205/55VR16 GoodYear Eagle GW+
1-125/95DR16 GoodYear Temp (D speed rated to 80 km/h
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 08:46:57 -0800
From: Rick Santangelo <[email protected]>
Subject: Re:3G at Detroit Auto Show
Message-ID: <#20>
Did you download the Mitsubishi SST Movie, which features the concept car
that
may resemble the 3G? Listen carefully to the music in the second part, after
they pull the cover off the car. Scary isn't it? That's the same song that was
the "theme" of the '97 shootout. It's "Get Ready For This", the first song on
the '97 Shootout CD. Maybe they pay more attention to us than we realize! ;)
You can download the movie at
http://www.detnews.com/1998/98autoshow/mitsu.mov
Rick
'90 black TSi AWD
'90 white TSi AWD
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 12:31:26 -0500
From: Steve Basile <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: cracked brake rotors, pronto spyder
Message-ID: <#22>
>Gas slots in the rotor face have several advantages over cross-drilledholes
I still say don't touch rotors for the street. I personally feel that
removing *any* material from the surface of the rotor will lead to faster
warpage.
I have a Brembo / Rofren setup that rocks! I remember when I ordered the
Rotors from Brake Warehouse, the owner was surpriesed that I didn't want
any holes, slots, polkadots, yadda yadda yadda. After 9k, fade or warpage
still isn't an issue and brake performance is definitely better than stock
(of course, due to the Rofren pads). I've made a few hard stops from
100mph+. Perfect for the street.
>I looked at the carpoint site and saw the Mitsu concept
>car. Don't stop there, though. Look at the Dodge ProntoSpyder!
Wow, reminded me of a Porche Boxter (except for the wheel wells of course)!
The Mitsu SST and Plymouth Pronto Spyder absolutely share the same lines,
except for the rear end. 1999 - 2000 should be very interesting!
Regards,
Steve Basile
95 TSi. 46k on my GT4s. I don't drive like a sissy either!
(Pirelli P7000 on order)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 13:56:22 -0500
From: Chris Holmes <[email protected]>
Subject: broken exhaust studs
Message-ID: <#23>
[ALL]
For all those who have written about broken exhaust studs; here's my 2
cents...The answer is in the archives! I had the same problem (four
studs in my case) anyway after searching the archives I found out the
only solution to prevent this. You have to remove the exhaust manifold
then have it machined for flatness as it's likely warped. It doesn't
cost that much to get machined and will prevent future problems. There
is a VFAQ for removing the manifold and it helps a lot. If you can get
vice grips on the broken studs they will turn out (hint soak them in
wd40 first). If it is broken at the cylinder head then use an eazy out.
Drill the recommended size hole in the very center of the stud. Use a
new stud to determine how far you can drill (the deeper the better).
Warning! Don't go to deep or you'll put a hole through the head! I
marked the drill bit with masking tape and worked slowly. It turned out
very easy after the eazy out was carefully screwed in. Get a new
manifold gasket (the composite ones are better than the metal). Feel
free to email me for more specific details. PRINT THE VFAQ!
Chris ([email protected]) blue '91 Laser
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 14:52:54 -0500
From: Kyle Zingg <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [2G, T] Warped Rotors, 2G Tbody elbow needed
Message-ID: <#24>
Baran,
>My vented disc brakes are warped for the 4th time.
>If you were in my shoes, what would you consider buying?
IMHO, unless you are autoXing or heavy street racing, stock replacement
Brembo rotors with a good set of pads should do you fine. Around here,
the Brembos are only $55 each, much cheaper than $112/ea for X-drilled
rotors.
Anybody have a spare 2G throttle body elbow laying around that they
would be willing to loan me for a month or two? I'm working with BFD to
make a composite elbow, and we'd like to measure up a 2G elbow to insure
that we make a universal replacement. We only own 1G cars at the
moment.
Thanks,
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 15:32:57 EST
Subject: Wanted: small side body panel
Message-ID: <#25>
Well, the VR4 is just too fast, awhile back a blow-out weakened the body panel
just behind the driver's side front wheel, and last night, somewhere during
the 200 mile journey around town (which included a $268 speeding ticket), it
blew off. Well, down here in sunny, and might I say very warm South Florida,
GVR4's are very scarce. I was wondering with a greater abundance of these
cars up in the great white north, if anyone knows of a junker VR4 from which
somebody might be able to purchase/trade/steal/borrow. Im willing to shell
out some good old cash for this piece, or if you prefer the barter system, my
neighbor has a new 996 I know where the keys are...
Morgan Smith
91 GVR4 #527
"77 in a 40, eh?"
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 15:20:15 -0600
Subject: retarded timing
Message-ID: <#26>
The PMS for the 2G cars is different than the one for the 1G. The 2G
ECU does much more to control the engine and so the PMS has more to do
to mate up with it. I have a friend with a 2G, 20G, front mount and a
PMS. I swears by the performance increase he got with his PMS, but that
is all he ever tried. He has run 11.8 so far.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 17:01:49 EST
From: EclpseGST <[email protected]>
Subject: DSM spotted in VA + radio bracket + wire mesh
Message-ID: <#27>
I was south on RT. 29 just outside of Warrenton Va. I was in my friends Red
MR2 you where in a 95+ Eclipse with front mount, wheels, combat wing, ect. If
you are on the list let me know. I live in the Warrenton area and have a 95
GST.
Does anyone have the stock bracket for a 2G infinity radio. The guy that
owned the car before didn't use it when he put the stock radio back in and now
it just sits in there.
Also anyone that has removed the center piece of plastic from the large
opening on the 95 and put wire mesh in its place let me know how you did it.
I am not sure how to remove the plastic or how to secure the wire mesh.
Thanks
Peter Counts 95 Eclipse GST
EclpseGST on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 17:56:42 -0500
Subject: Strut Tower Bar
Message-ID: <#28>
[RTP] I think
I just got my Grex strut tower support bar from GP performance as a
late Christmas present from my girlfiend. I thought I would ask before
I really screw something up, can I just remove the bolts at the top of
the strut tower or is there something special I have to do? Also I
talked to a couple about it and they said you wouldn't even notice the
STSB without lowering springs, is this true or do youi actually feel the
difference. Thanx.
Erick
92' TSI A/T
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 19:03:00 -0500
Subject: Joke?
Message-ID: <#29>
>>but it didn't matter since I pulled three
>>car lengths ahead before having to stomp on the binders to avoid pulling a
>>"Hank" and hitting the Mustang in the lane ahead of me.
>I didn't like it, nonetheless. Hope not too many other people
>felt it was a laughing matter either.
>RUFRIDR "HANK" Bell
Man I hope you were kidding cause I didn't think it was funny until you
wrote that post. No offense I hope, I just found it funny even though I
don't know you. %)
Erick
92' TSi A/T
(hope I didn't just piss someone off, didn't mean to)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:44:31 -0500
From: Aaron Woods <[email protected]>
Subject: check engine light
Message-ID: <#30>
I was still trying to figure out why my check engine light came on and idle
was non existant after changing my turbo... well I got to looking and
happened to glance over at the old turbo sitting on my work bench and saw
that the intake side of it was black... I went over and looked and was like
duh! a rubber collar goes on the air intake tube.
I do have one other problem right now that bugs me... above 35 MPH there is
this annoying sound coming from what sounds like behind the instrument
cluster or maybe near the base of the windshield... it sounds like a
baseball card in a bicycle rim basically. It does this about 90% of the
time. The faster you go the faster this sound seems. It happens with the
clutch in or out. When I go over a good bump or take a corner hard it goes
away for a few seconds sometimes up to 20 or so. It dissappears after
about 90 MPH most of the time. It is not proportional to the RPM's, just
speed. Could it be the speedometer cable?
If so what do I do to fix it? Somebody please help.
Aaron
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:55:09 EST
From: ABThomason <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G, T] How to crank engine without starting?
Message-ID: <#32>
"I Don't Understand How Modern Cars Work, Part 238"
I replaced my power steering pressure hose, and I need to bleed the system.
The Chrysler factory manual indicates that it's necessary to crank the engine
over on the starter while turning the steering wheel back and forth. To
prevent the engine from starting, the manual says to "disconnect the high
tension cable," with no further explanation. I would understand what to do if
the car had a distributor, but, of course, it just has mysterious electronic
thingies almost entirely hidden from view under the induction system. So how
do you kill the spark? (If the answer involves pulling out the bundle of
wires with the triangular cover that goes into the transistor unit, kindly
explain how that connector works -- it's on there real tight, and I can't see
any tabs to squeeze or any other obvious ways of unlocking the thing.) Thanks
in advance.
Andrew Thomason
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:19:54 -0600
From: Maethwyn Riemann <[email protected]>
Subject: That darn little screw....
Message-ID: <#33>
>So I jump on the archive searcher and see all kinds
>of posts about melted pistons and valves associated
>with backing this screw out! So I take the unit
>apart and screw it back in.
I was afraid to back mine all the way out also...but I found that if you
turn it upside down, and then screw it back in...it completely seals off
the "would-be" hole leaving no air resistance...I have yet to melt a
piston or valve...of course I'm not too terribly fast either =)
Maethwyn ('93 Talon TSi - The $0 Daily Driver from Nowhere =) )
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 21:24:07 -0800
From: "Dennis Wong" <[email protected]>
Subject: help re: cause of "beeping" sound?
Message-ID: <#34>
Well, I'm at my wits end trying to find the source of an annoying sound so
I thought I'd throw it to the digest to see if anyone has any thoughts.
It's on my '93 AWD with the usual intake and exhaust mods plus a 16G. When
I'm driving along, a very high pitched beeping sound occurs on and off. It
is usually only one tone, fairly constant and can last anywhere from 1 sec.
to maybe 5 secs. Sometimes, it has two tones, first a high pitched one
followed by a slightly lower pitch. At first I wondered if it was the
brakes squealing but they look okay (but that gives you an indication of
what kind of sound it is). One thing I have found is that if I maintain
constant throttle pressure, the sound often continues but if I either
increase the throttle slightly or let off on it, the sound disappears
immediately. Also, it always occurs when I'm backing into the garage...I
let up on the clutch just to get the car moving a bit, then instantly put
the clutch in again, then the beep occurs, only lasting a fraction of a
second. Anyone have this happen or have any thoughts on it? Thanks.
Dennis Wong.
'90 & '93 AWD Talons.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 22:29:27 -0500
Subject: Laser? fake exhausts, turbo housing cooling, MAS screw
Message-ID: <#35>
I keep reading about the lack of advertisement on the Talon compared to
the Eclipse, either 1G or 2G. What about the Laser? Has anyone ever seen
an ad for this car? I never knew they existed until I saw mine on display
at the dealer. At the time I always liked the Talon. I even test drove
one at another dealer, but the Laser seemed to have a little more guts (at
least over the Talon I test drove), and the Laser dealer was willing to
work a bit more with me. Both cars were used, by the way. This was
around Christmas/New Year of 92/93, and both were 91 models, so they were
almost the same age and milage.
I ended up with the Laser. I still like the body of the 1G Talon over the
Eclipse (although I like the 2G Eclipse better than the 2G Talon), but for
some reason the looks of the Laser has grown more on me. Maybe it's the
plain sleek look it has. Nothing really special over a plain 1G Eclipse,
but somehow has more of a refined aggressive look to me. Kinda like, "I'm
bad, but I don't have to show it," look. Maybe it's the 16 inch wheels,
or the "Turbo Intercooler" markings...
Another thing that I think may have caused the Talon/Laser (and Eagle)
line to disappear is the customer service. I know several people after
seeing the fiasco I've had talking with Chrysler about the bad paint they
gave my car, who have leaned away from Chrysler. Why buy a car, even with
a warranty, if they have to go through a hassle to get something done,
especially if it was a defect to begin with? I doubt I will ever buy
another Chrysler. I bought a car hoping it would last, but the paint was
already fading before I had a years worth of payments in.
I think that's why a lot of people still lean towards the "imports." Even
though most of the "imports" are now US made (our cars, Honda, etc), the
import companies seem to stand behind their name and workmanship more.
The "domestic" companies, to me, have an "it's not our fault" attitude.
Now that I'm thinking of my paint again, and it's a new year, and my car
is up and running (for the most part), I think it's time to send a nasty
letter back to Chrysler with pictures of this gray and black camoflouge
they call paint and threaten arbitration myself. I went with the "nice
guy who is concerned" letters, and have only been pawned off, ignored, or
told to go away, after they first agreed there was a problem with my
paint. Now it's time to maybe get a bit more POed and start sending them
evidence, instead of waiting for someone to supposedly come to me, as
promised. Anyone ever tried arbitration for paint? I was going to just
have the car repainted, but after hearing the costs of getting a decent
job, it's may be worth another 32 cent stamp.
>Then when the weather got colder I could clearly see that there is
>no exhaust coming out of the inner two pipes. What a joke! They must be
>just welded on for looks.
I wouldn't doubt if they are fake. A friend of mine a while ago was
helping his friend look at trucks. They found one at one lot with the
sports package. He said it looked pretty good but lost all interest when
he looked under the vehicle. It had a dual exaust setup, but upon further
inspection, one of the sides didn't hook up to anything! A pipe from
nowhere! Only one side was functional. How lame! Sorry, don't recall
what type of truck it was.
Turbo Exhaust Housing - What about something to keep this housing cooler?
Our cars are known to have these cracked. I just spent a few weeks trying
to hunt down a 7cm upgrade, and settled on a stock 6cm being ported
larger, but I'm told I can look foward to cracks later in the future
again. This is due to the heat this piece takes, expanding and
contracting. Couldn't there be some setup to try and keep this piece
cooler, pulling the heat away, hopefully letting this part last a bit
longer? Maybe a fan, or some sort of fluid cooling, oil or water?
What's the poop with the screw on the MAS? When I first found Club DSM
and started doing the free mods, one of the things it said was removing
the silencer, the lower honeycomb (not the upper due to turbulance),
cutting or loosing the air can, and backing this screw out. It
iss one of the FAQs linked to the Club DSM page
(http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/JFM/MAF_Mod.html) Now lately I am hearing
here and also from my shop that I shouldn't have messed with the screw.
My idle always seemed normal (except when my ECU started going bad).
Right now the MAS has been modified more, but the screw is still out.
What should I be watching for that is bad, and if it should be turn it
back in, how far should I go?
Mike 91
Laser RS-T
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 22:27:06 +0000
From: "Dan Coughlin" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: The Talon Replacement
Message-ID: <#36>
>Well Plymouth has released the concept PLYMOUTH PRONT SPYDER. Could
>this be the Talon Replacement? 0-60 in 5.3sec 1/4 mile in 13.8 (?),
>STOCK!
There's like zero change of this. The pronto is pure show car.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 23:12:19 -0500
From: "T. Tate" <[email protected]>
Subject: Scanning all DSM Brochures - Missing Some
Message-ID: <#37>
Fellow DSMers,
I NEED YOUR FACTORY DSM BROCHURES.
I am in the process of scanning the NEW CAR FACTORY BROCHURES for all of
Talon/Eclipse/Laser years. Todd has offered to host them once I complete
the scanning. It should provide a nice reference to what was available
on our DSMs all the way back to 1990.
David Nagreski has already supplied me with a great start.
Here is what I have so far:
TALON: New Car Brochures - 1990 ,1991 ,1992 ,1995 ,1996 ,1997
1995 Mopar Accessories Catalog
Eclipse: New Car Brochures - 1990 ,1991 ,1992 ,1993 ,1995 ,1997 ,1998
1990 GSX suppliment
Laser:
New Car Brochures - 1990(two versions) ,1991
Other: Mitsubishi Impressions Magazines Summmer & Winter 1989
Road & Track April 1988 reprint on DSMs
MISSING:
TALON:
1993, 1994
ECLIPSE: 1994, 1996
LASER:
1992, 1993, 1994
So please, If you can supply any of these (I will return them) please
drop me an email.
We are so close it would be a shame to come up short just a few!
Also if you have any other DSM related items (like the Impressions
Magazines) that you think might add to the reference base, send them and
I'll scan them in also.
THANKS,
Tim Tate
1990 Eclipse GS
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 23:37:14 -0500
Subject: war story and a FWD question...
Message-ID: <#38>
[all]
I feel like I'm writing to Penthouse or something so I'll start with "I
never thought it would happen to me but..." I was coming home tonight
doing about 70Kmh in a 60 zone when this 240sx flew by me, weaving in
and out of traffic as he went. I don't mind people who drive quick but I
hate traffic weavers with a passion. I was swearing under my breath at
him for being such an a$$ and thinking to myself "Someone should teach
this idiot a lesson". Wouldn't you know it, I came up behind him at a
traffic light. We were both turning left on to a two lane (in each
direction) road. Once through the intersection he once again tromps on
it and takes off weaving around two more cars as he goes. Now I'm mad,
the car that was in my lane moves over and the road ahead is nice and
clear. I couldn't resist so I nail it. I come up real quick on the 240
and change lanes to pass, he notices and floors it (a nice puff o' smoke
coming out of the tail pipe). I drop it in to 3rd and blow by him like
he was going backwards...I happened to glance at my boost gauge and it
was only reading 13Lbs, all I could think about when blowing by him was
"gee, I'm only reading 13. Hmmm I wonder if the cold is affecting the
bleeder?" Anyway I digress, I decide to slow down to a sane speed as I'm
well ahead of the 240. I guess he hadn't had enough as I can see him
approaching fast from the rear. I let him get close, wait for him to
change lanes to pass and drop it into 3rd again. He doesn't even get
along side as I soundly thrash him and leave him fading into the
darkness.
O.k enough of that :) I have never been to the track but hope to get
there this summer. This goes out to all you FWD draggers. Has anyone
tried launching in second gear? Is it hard on the engine or tranny? I've
pulled away from traffic lights before in second and it doesn't seem to
take that much more RPM. I've noticed that launching at anything over
3K, in first gear, results in lots of wheel spin. What would happen if
you launched at 4K in second?
Chris (blue '91 Laser)
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 00:34:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: track war story?/fog light quest.
Message-ID: <#39>
Well, there I am sitting in my beautiful black Valu-Jet(2g T FWD) at Moroso
on Friday night. Temp is a cool 60 degrees. Last run of the night, and I'm
about three cars away from the light tree. I look over at my next victim.
OOOOPPPSSS. It's an '87 Mustang with traction bars, FAT slicks, and the guy
has a helmet on...I'm going down. Well we get the lights, of course he
takes off ahead of me( that whole rear drive deal) and we head down the
track. Pushing 19 lbs on the 16G I start to gain on him and by the time I
got down the 1320 I was ahead of him. As I went by I saw(through his helmet)
his jaw drop. HMMMM. What happened to that V8? Anyway the run wasn't my
best a 14.1 @ 103, but it was a great way to end the night.
Question. What is the easiest way to get my foglights to be able to come on
with just the parking lights on. Please RTP on this I would really
appreciate it.
Nick
"Valu-Jet"
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 23:52:04 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 3-gauge A-pillar?
Message-ID: <#40>
How's the 1G 3-gauge a-pillar coming along?
Is it available yet? How much?
I'm ready to order this gadget now if it's ready to ship...
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 23:49:08 -0800
Subject: Gonna get a new turbo - broke the old one
Message-ID: <#41>
I'm getting a new turbo cause I broke my old one.
Somehow, the bolt that connects to the wheel on the compressor side
backed itself off. To make things worse, it happened while I was
launching pretty hard in between 1st and 2nd gear. I didn't know
what was going on (thought I blew a head gasket) cause I would blow
heavy white smoke whenever I got on the gas and produced boost.
Otherwise I was OK except on occassion I would hear a <tink> sound.
That was the nut bouncing off the compressor wheel back up the intake
only to roll down again for a another hit.
Whenever I produced boost the turbine wheel would slide over to break
the seal from the cartridge enough to let alot of oil into the exhaust
system. That oil would vaporise in the O2 housing and downpipe giving
me my own fog machine.
I will be going with a Garrett turbo because it is the best for the
money *if* you can get someone to provide adapter plates, custom
downpipe, and run the lines. The cost of a huge Garrett T04/T3 like
Ferrara is using is cheaper than a 16G with a core trade-in. One
difficulty with the Garrett turbos is that you have to make some
serious decisions before purchasing because there is alot of
tunability with these.
With the Mitsubishi turbos you have basic options like 16G or 20G and
you can go with differnt degrees of clip for tuning - not much else
that I know of. With Garrett you almost have too many options. Just
going with a straight T3 turbo you can have several housings and
wheels for each side and then you can go with degrees of clip.
I think I will be going with a T04E/T3 or a H3/T3 stage 2 with no
clip. This ought to give me spool up of a clipped 16G with boost
quality rivalling a 20G. We'll see cause I am aiming for more of a
street power trim rather than a total race track performance - which
is hard to find advice on right now. Any thoughts or suggestions are
welcome as I haven't bought it yet.
Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 03:47:01 -0500
From: "ics" <[email protected]>
Subject: 1GNT
Message-ID: <#42>
anyone have a NT 1G and made any significant increases in horsepower. I was
thinking of maybe slapping a older (junkyard) turbo and intercooler. any
ideas? I have a 92 talon NT w/K&N and a cut away air canister w/112K...
jason
-----------------------------Date:
Sun, 11 Jan 1998 10:49:52 -0600
From: Brian Byers <[email protected]>
Subject: 2.5" flex section, High-flow cats [RTP]
Message-ID: <#43>
>Where can I find a 2.5' flex section?
Any local muffler shop should have this item. They are not all that
hard to find.
>Also, any comments on 2.5" High-flow cats would be appreciated.
Personally, Hi-flow cats (as high flowing as a cat may be) still suck.
Where I live, there are no emissions tests, so I will be going with the
test pipe soon. Its all up to you on the cat. If you want to stay eco
legal, go for the cat.
Rice Fed - '97 GS-T
"Larger displacement usually means that you'll beat a DSM to the gas
station."
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 11:08:02 -0600
Subject: 15000 Checkup [RTP]
Message-ID: <#44>
>I also just got a good deal on a 1g bov and DIS filter that I want to
>install- the kicker is that I don't have a boost gauge yet, but I can't
>imagine letting them sit in my garage while my girl asthmatically limps
>around 4.sux... Can anyone curse/bless installing them without a gauge?
Dave,
There is no problem with early installation of these items other than
not knowing what the boost is and how the mods are affecting the car.
In fact, I had an upper I/c, DIS, and 1G BOV before boost guage
installation myself. You will be ok by installing the items based on
the fact that you will have the safety of the stock BCS (boost control).
Boost guages are nice beforehand to watch what the mods do, but not
really necessary until you get a boost controller and turn the boost up.
Rice Fed - '97 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 11:15:50 PST
Subject: David Brode's upper I/C pipe.
Message-ID: <#45>
Just wanted to send a quick note to the list about David Brode's upper
intercooler pipes that he makes and sells.
Dave was always friendly in my many mails to him. He makes 2.25" upper
I/C pipes for only $65! Sounded sweet, so I ordered one and got it
yesterday. It is made of exhaust tubing (stainless steel), and looked
very nice...to me, just as nice as the SUPER expensive ones sold by the
larger companies. You could paint it, but I liked it just the way it
was.
My bro and I put it in in under 1.5 hours. Took it for a drive...what a
difference! I know compared to the 16G/20G cars mine isn't fast, but
for an auto trans with a T25 turbo, this car plain hauls a$$! I can run
mid 14 quarters, which isn't fabulous, but is faster than any stock 5sp
I have ever seen run by a few tenths. Please don't mail me and say "You
should have gotten a 5 speed...autos suck"...I stand behind my decision.
Anyway, if anyone is looking for an upper I/C pipe for a 2G (don't know
if he makes them for 1G's...), consider David Brode's. For $70 shipped,
it is DEFINITELY a smart purchase. I know I could have bought and used
a $15 radiator hose, but I didn't want to hack up the stock pipe to do
it.
Oh, BTW, got some price quotes for getting the front fascia and side
fascias repainted, along with the mirrors...anywhere from $500-750 to do
JUST THIS! Wow...guess I will wait til ALL the paint is dead and get
whole car done.
Kevin
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 14:38:47 EST
From: Mr El Loco <[email protected]>
Subject: Possible Race Day
Message-ID: <#46>
Hello everyone, work with me on this, I've never posted to here before and am
actually on the Starnet 3000GT/Stealth list. May 8-10 the 3S list has its
Ocean City gathering. It is one of the biggest events we have on the east
coast. But for the 10th (Sunday) I'm trying to arrange a trackday. There is a
track right on the Maryland/Delaware border 50 minutes north of Ocean City.
The track requires full ambulance team and all that other great stuff and
we're in search of more people to help cover the costs. I'm sure if enough
people responded in about 2-3 weeks we coud work out a set price and
everything. Please respond to me personally as I don't subscribe to the Talon
digest. Thanks
Steve Gula
95 3000GT
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 12:59:43 -0800
Subject: GVR-4 Gauge Pods
Message-ID: <#47>
I have installed a double gauge pod intended for the T/E/L in my GVR-4, but
I am not very happy with the fit and finish. All of you that have had to do
this know that it takes quite a bit of time with the dremmel and a heat gun
to make it fit. Now I have found the solution to this problem
I have found a person willing to make gauge pods specifically for the Galant
VR-4. This guy also makes pods for the Syclone/Typhoon crowd. What I am
asking for is interest in one of the following: single or double add on
pods, single, double or triple replacement A-pillars, similar to the Lotek
unit.
I need at least 20 orders, the single gauge pod will run about $20 and the
triple pod A-pillar will run about $50.
Reply to me here or at [email protected] if you are interested. I don't
know how long it will take to get the pods once we start the process, as I
will have to supply the guy with an A-pillar to make sure that everything
fits correctly and the colors and textures match.
Mark Rieb
'92 GVR-4, #334/1000
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 16:54:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Paul Rajesh Estevez <[email protected]>
Subject: Group Purchase of 16G's; Profec solutions; 1G question
Message-ID: <#48>
This is an update. Now I need 8 people to make the group purchase on
16G's. That's just for the turbo: $565 Also, it seems I can get 16G
KITS for the 2G including a stainless oil feed line from the stock
location as well as all the other accompanying lines and fittings and drop
tube and of course, the turbo: $800 and I need 5 people.
I've been using a profec now for almost a year and never had a single
problem with it. A few days ago, I noticed I could no longer adjust boost
and the profec wasn't reading positive boost, just vacuum. Hmm. I
checked for leaks and the like and everything was connected correctly.
Now, Greddy included two small air filters for the air lines running to
the stepping motor. They are tiny and are intended to filter air coming
from the throttle body (basically wherever you tap boost) and from a
positive pressure source (in my case, the compressor housing for the T25).
I noticed the filter on the line coming from compressor housing was dirty,
but didn't think much of it because the filter on the line tapping boost
was mostly clean. Presumably, the profec should still be reading the
positive boost my boost gauge was reading. Well, I took off the filters
and ran the lines straight into the stepping motor. PROBLEM SOLVED. I've
heard that many people install the profec (and other Electronic Boost
Controllers for that matter) without any sort of filtration. If my
filters got dirty and prevented the profec from working, all I would have
to do is replace the filters (Until I do, I have connected the vacuum
lines straight from the turbo into the wastegate actuator). I'm sure I
would be replacing the stepping motor if all the dirt caught in the
filters went into that stepping motor, and that thing has got to cost more
than $16 retail (the cost for new filters from Greddy, retail price). The
moral: I think you should use filters if you have an EBC.
Now I have a 1G question: I'm trying to help a friend of mine with his
car: 91 GST. He was hitting a fuel cut at 4500 rpm and I figured he was
just running too much boost. So, I ran a line straight from the lower ic
pipe (you know, that little nipple?) to the wastegate actuator and
everything was OK up till 6500 rpm when there was another cut. The car is
TOTALLY stock so I figured I could watch the stock gauge for
"approximations" of boost. Well, the boost gauge showed ~ 8 psi with the
straight line and zero bleed (I even took the BCS out of the loop) until
the car reached 6500 rpm when suddenly the stock gauge shot straight past
14 psi! I figured the car was still over boosting. but why? Why does
the boost suddenly seem to go way up after 6000 rpm? in all gears? Is
there something wrong with his wastegate or actuator? How do I fix this
thing? Oh yeah, the car is a 5 speed, so 14B turbo.
Paul Estevez
95 GS (da' hell kinna' car is zis enaway boy?) T
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 17:35:56 -0500
From: "Sam Merritt" <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G] Fastest 16G
Message-ID: <#49>
Folks,
Responding to Gade Hayes, I also wonder what the fastest 16G equipped
DSM is running. Al Blaha ran a 11.86 @ 114.44 with a "big" 16G. Due to
traction problems, my '93 Tsi recently ran a 12.30 @ 115.1. My car has
massive amounts of power -- it achieved 115.32mph in the 1/4-mile on a
"small," UNCLIPPED 16G!
Anyway, is Al Blaha the quickest?
Regards, Sam Merritt.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:45:55 -0500
Subject: Man these Vette/F-body guys are MEAN!
Message-ID: <#51>
Will someone please go to New England dragway and show this guy up?
BTW- I just did some G-Tech runs *WITH* a 250lber in the car and got
a personal best of 13.20 @106.5. I am bumping right against
the high 12s without a passanger. Thank you everyone that sent
me advice! I hope that I can return the favor someday!
WT!
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 21:03:51 -0500
Subject: Repair manuals 1G
Message-ID: <#52>
Hi all.
I have some information that may be of some serious value for a number of
digest members. For those of us who have not bought the factory manual, but
still do a fair amount of work on our cars the digest and related web sites
is a godsend. (Thanks Todd, Tom, and everyone else)
However, while in Pep Boys this past weekend, I noticed the Haynes manual
for the 1G TEL was on sale for $9.99. It had been opened, so I thought I
would take that opportunity to take a look - it was 2x thicker than most of
the manuals.
I just have to say, it's not bad at all. It is certainly NO substitute for
the factory manuals in many - mostly very technical - ways, but it covers
nearly everything that any of us usually attempt. It covers a full car
teardown and reassembly including interior, engine (in and out of the car),
turbo, exhaust, brakes, all different drivetrains (not full tranny rebuild
though), clutch, electrical and emmisions, etc. The troubleshooting section
is worth the price alone. They cover every single sensor and it's testing
and replacement, as well as ECU error codes. Even covers some of our tips
and tricks.
I'm not suggesting that the haynes is a total substitute for the factory
manuals, but it is 1000% better than the Clymer or Chilton ones. Combined
with the knowledge gained from the digest and VFAQ sites It's worth my $10.
If anyone can't find Haynes near them I believe there is an order number
805-498-6703. If that dosen't cut it, I will be happy to buy and mail one
to anyone who needs it at cost.
(Semi-non DSM content follows)
Passed a garage today that had a picture of the 65(?) Shelby Cobra 427 in
the window. I think the place sells Moostang parts etc, and maybe even
builds the replicar Cobras. Anyway, the poster said something about "The
fastest production car to go 0-100-0" Didn't give the time tho. Was
wondering, does anyone know how fast they supposidly did 0-100-0, and more
importantly, how fast can a really fast DSM AWD do it? I would LOVE to
rub it in my Dad's friend's face... You see, he has a (really nice)
replicar of a 427 Cobra, and endlessly hacks on "cheap Jap Junk"...(of
course his cobra gets *4* mpg on 114 octance race gas!)
(I'm sure you've all heard the 'legend' of the $100 bill taped to the dash
of a Cobra - grab it under full acceleration and you get to keep it. Yeah,
Right.)
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:24:14 EST
From: LupisLair <[email protected]>
Subject: PMS vs. VPC
Message-ID: <#53>
I have to agree with Eric Wu about the PMS being better than the VPC. I guess
I look at it this way: If the VPC was as good then why does the fastest 1G and
2G cars BOTH use the PMS. I think more than anything it comes to the captain
at the helm-- meaning the user [you] has control. I have seen both pieces of
equipment and have to say that the VPC is simple and has very little range of
adjustment. The PMS on the other hand has a wide range of adjustment and
can
be tuned much more precisely to what you need. The problem? Very few people
take the time to figure out the PMS and then blame the PMS for not working
although they have no idea what they are doing! WOW that is REALLY fair!
So why don't we put the blame where it lies... on the user. I know this may
seem a little harsh but it is reality and blaming something you don't
understand is the easy way out.
BTW I guess you can say I support the PMS!
Amber
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:23:44 -0500
Subject: Taking out Intake Manifolds, porting.
Message-ID: <#54>
Hi,
I read a few FAQs that show you, more or less, how to port an
Intake Manifold with the right tools, etc; but they never show you
the Engine Block.
What I wanted to know is, if you port an Intake Manifold, what
happens to the "holes" (Sorry, can't find a better word), in the
Engine Block side? (Where the Intake Manifold Attaches itself), are
they the same size as the "holes" on the Intake Manifold side, if
they are, what's the use of porting the Intake Manifold if the Engine
Block will become a "Bottle Neck"?
I also wanted to know if taking out the Intake Manifold requires the
use of any special tools (Other than standard socket wrenches), and
knowledge (Other than just reading and following the Shop Manual). In
other words, am I going to be able to take out and put back together
the Intake Manifold at home, with little experience from my part?
Thanks for the info!
Oh, You can RTP if you want :)
Alex
'93 Talon ES
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 00:18:22 -0500
Subject: Wierd Question
Message-ID: <#56>
What do you guys think of the Ultra 94 Gas running on DSMs or any
turbo charged car? I believe its sunoco not sure can't remember. But they
call it "Ultra 94" and since I started running there 93 octane gas instead
of mobil's 93 gas it seems that the car is running a bit better :) Thanks in
advance! Please email if possible!
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:33:20 -0700 (MST)
From: Jim <[email protected]>
Subject: {1G,T}
Message-ID: <#57>
I just want to make a last ditch effort to ask any of you what could be
causing a noise that sounds like the engine isn't getting enough oil
(coming from the top of the head). This is due to something in the timing
belt being amiss. I can make it go away by overtensioning the belt, but
then I end up 1 tooth off on each of the cams. When I properly tension
(as per the VFAQ) it makes the noise. I DO have oil pressure (though it
doesn't go up fast enough) and my vac and timing are right on par. I am
dead stumped, as of now I done the stupid belt 8 times (I should have
400,000 miles for that krap ;) ) Its going to Satan on tuesday unless
one of you saviors can help me...
Jim Colosimo
'91 Tsi '95 pistons and no shafts...running about 10 hp (13 on boost)!
-----------------------------Date:
Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:30:34 -0800
Subject: Results of the 15000 checkup
Message-ID: <#58>
Thanks for all the go-aheads on putting in the filter and BOV w/out a
gauge; I thought no prob, but it's nice to hear it confirmed by all you
experts! :)
Well I was all set to send in some positive vibes about how my girl
passed the 15K checkup with flying colors when I got to the last item on
my list and yep, the xfer case is leaking. Not real bad- the fluid was
about 1/4" below the fill plug, so I figure I can drive her for a few
days while I set up a meeting w/Satan. Can anyone in the SF Bay Area
please recommend a dealer? Pref. near San Jose? Or is it really so easy
to fix I should just do it? (NOT the impression I get from reading
previous posts though)
Second, how do you gap the NGK's? Mine were about .032" and I couldn't
get them to evenly gap to the .028-.030 on each side, so they remain
.032. I've never had a problem with plugs before, but then again, I've
never had these funky electrodes to deal with. Any tips and tricks
appreciated.
Finally, can we just layoff the personal opinions about our cars'
appearances versus other models? We all have our preferences and every
time you spout yours off, you indirectly slam the others. Let's just
agree that they all look great, kick a$$, and we're lucky to be a part of
this enviable family - Thank's again to Todd (So do you ever get sick of
hearing what a great job you're doing?:))
[No. :-) -talon mgr]
Dave
1997 Black Eagle Talon AWD
'My F15'
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 02:26:43 -0500
Subject: starter kill/replacing ETACS-ECU to disable alarm [2G]
Message-ID: <#59>
I don't have a factory alarm, and while fooling around with the
power window relays I noticed three relays slots that were empty. Looked
em up and one is for the alarm horn-honker relay and the other two slots
are for the alarm starter kill (one for M/T, one for Auto). While installing
a stereo I had the rear seats and side panels out, and noticed there was no
receiver either (keyless entry/alarm).
The only wiring difference once those three relays are down would be
the ETACS-ECU control over the headlight relay and horn relay (the alarm's
horn relay is for the seperate alarm's horns, this is a signal to the
normal horn's relay). Is the wiring different between an alarm equipped car
and one without or is the ETACS-ECU different? Can't say. But I would think
DSM would only have tooling to build and install one ETACS-ECU and just
run different wiring harnesses to change the wiring between a non-alarmed
car and one with the other alarm devices. Installing another ETACS-ECU
might not change anything.
97+ cars have a different alarm system, I can't comment. But in the 95-96
electrical manual the alarm has a relay to kill power to the starter motor
in auto tranny cars, and a relay to kill the ground to the starter relay
in 5sp cars. (the same relay that gets killed when the clutch pedal is
not depressed).
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 00:28:35 -0800 (PST)
From: anDrew Yamamoto <[email protected]>
Subject: GVR4 T, ALL how to get the most outta the 4G63BT
Message-ID: <#60>
Hi. I just picked up a 92 Galant VR4 50k (872/1000) about a month ago, and
have been busy getting the car running the way I like it. For the most
part many major bugs are worked out, and its just minor things now. I'm
finally starting to understand AWD forced induction power after driving an
N/A FWD Honda, and I have some questions that I'd appreciate some help
with. A little background on the car. It came equipped with a HKS SPF and
a 3" exhaust, and modified MAS. The previous owner also gave me a EVC III
which I just finished installing.Anyways, my questions with TIA.
1) The EVC tends to allow higher boost than I preset. On High setting I'm
running .95 bar and the warning meter kicks in at 1.0 bar, what gives?
on the flipside, with the EVC III on low (.85 bar) It won't give me all
.85... it peaks out at .7X bar
2) what is the safest level of boost I can run and what would be a good
overtake setting, on 92 octane CA gas?
3) The C's Short shift, when going into 5th gear grinds if I push it away.
what could be causing that?
4) Is there only 1 main grommet to run stuff through the firewall? (the
one on the passenger side)
5) how hard would it be to convert the car into 5 lug pattern like the
eclipses?
Thanks in advance for all the help. I haven't really had a chance to swap
out any fluids except for the engine oil (mobil 1 15W50 Synthetic) any
recommendations on how to get this car running in tip top shape?
Thanks,
Andrew Yamamoto
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 04:17:36 -0800
From: Brice Abell <[email protected]>
Subject: AWD fear - Loose Rear suspension
Message-ID: <#61>
Hello All
I've been reading the list for about 6 months now and this is my first post.
>I have noticed that when I'm driving on slippery roads that my 92 AWD will get
>VERY unstable. Admittedly, it is time for new rear tires, but...
I experienced a similar problem about a year ago when the rear tires on my 90
eagle AWD were
wearing out sooner than expected. After a visit to my alignment shop it was
determined that
the forward bushings in the rear suspension crossmember were worn out.
( this crossmember is also the forward mount for the rear diff.) This
caused the entire rear end to flex in an uncontrolled rear steer
manner. Eagle , Mits. , Plymouth , Archer, and Energy Suspension had
no solution for the problem without replacement of the entire
crossmember. No one makes a replacement. My solution was to
manufacture a nylon replacement from some 1/2 inch nylon stock I had
available (it takes about 5 disks each side). After installation I may
not have any passive rear steer anymore ala RX7 but alignment is solid
as a rock now and tires don't wear funny anymore. 8)
Last conversation I had with Energy Suspension they were going to look
into a replacement.
Brice ([email protected])
RED 90 AWD Talon 185K and still going 8)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:21:01 -0500
From: "Frank Mowry" <[email protected]>
Subject: RE : PMS vs VPC
Message-ID: <#62>
>You are definitely right Brett when you say that Extreme is the quickest for
>the time being, but you can be sure that they are not running the same
version
>of the PMS that you are. Doug Wallace will even tell you that.
Their version is for sale. Actually Sean will sell you the one off of his
car. Check out their web page for info on their race parts. It tells the
whole story. Rev limiter raised, larger MAS and allowing for larger than 550
injectors (even though the "standard" PMS can do this using offsets). That's
it. Keep in mind the some fast VPC guys are getting ECUs modified by Todd
along with upgraded VPC chips to do the same stuff. At least the injectors
(vpc chip) and the rev limit (todd), since the MAS is a nonfactor with a VPC.
The PMS isn't magical. Mike Ferrara runs the same one Sean does, and look
at his times. It's the tuning. And a lot has to do with driving and other
stuff on the car, most all of which is available. You have to keep the car
in one piece down the track to finish a good run. Mike F. can't seem to do
that and he has all the go fast parts and resources that he should be fast.
Sean's 11.0 was run on a plain jane PMS, btw. So is Jack Cullottas current
best time.
If you give a monkey a shovel and a bulldozer to dig a hole, he might do a
better job with the shovel. You gotta know your tools to get the most out of
them.
Frank Mowry
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:34:31 -0500
From: Paul Mrozowski <[email protected]>
Subject: Detroit Int. Auto Show
Message-ID: <#63>
I went to the auto show yesterday and checked out the Mitsubishi display.
The only "concept" vehicle they had was the SST, plus a couple of
Eclipse's, a Spyder, and an engine display. I have no idea if the SST is
supposed to be the design for the 3rd gen. Eclipse or not. I snapped a
couple of pictures of the 2.0l Turbo engine they had (I'll hopefully have
them developed by the end of the week). What caught my interest was the
size of the intercooler. It was >tiny<. It was about the size of a
textbook. The intake & exhaust manifolds were about the diameter of a
garden hose. This engine definately won't have the same performance
potential of the 1G cars.
Paul
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:44:33 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 16G Install
Message-ID: <#64>
Hello all,
Saturday, I finally installed my 16G on my 96 GS-T.
I want to thank a lot of Chicago Area DSM
guys (Vic, Stan, Rusty and Alex). Also,
I want to thank Leo at Midwest Motorsports
for letting me use his shop
(www.midwestmotorsports.com) and Damen,
who also works at Leo's shop.
Damen ported the exhaust manifold, as well
as did additional porting work to angle and
open the ports as the exhaust gases come
from the heads. Damen wanted to create
more exhaust gas scavaging by causing the
air to loop and tumble as it leaves the heads.
This helps draw more exhaust gases from the
chamber. When he finished, the exhaust
manifold was shining! Way to go Damen!
After installing the 16G, I set my Profec B to
11 and 15 psi. We had a bit of a scare when I
took the Eclipse for a test drive. As I accelerated
down the street in front of the shop, there was a
loud "POOF!", the car stalled, and eventually
died. We later realized that the lower IC pipe
had blown off the 16G. That scared the daylights out
of me!
So after re-attaching the lower IC pipe, we continued
on. I spent Sunday dialing in the Profec. All I can say
is now it's a matter of throttle control. You can't
just floor it anymore. Flooring it results in
wheel spins in 1st, 2nd, *and* 3rd. I've lost quite
a bit of low end power, but the car is still extremely
drivable. The ported and clipped 16G is as responsive
as my T25 stock AT Garrett. Turbo lag is nearly
gone.
But when power comes on, watch out! I went out with
my buddy as I was dialing in boost. With the Profec dialed
in at 15psi, I accelerated WOT in 3rd. The car held 15 up to
and through the redline until I bounced off the rev limiter
at 7500 rpms. Amazingly, the car was *still*
accelerating when it hit the ceiling.
With my bike racing background, it's hard for me to
feel speed, but the car does feel faster. How much faster?
I really can't say. But I noticed that all other cars on the
expressway quickly zoomed passed me backwards!
Starts from 0 on the street, even at 75% throttle,
results in wheel spin through 1st and 2nd.
The top end bite of the FWD cars is incredable.
My Nippondenso fuel pump didn't come with all
the necessary electrical parts, so we couldn't install
it. I'll take care of that this weekend. Then, I'll
crank it to 18 psi and really have some fun.
Warren
96 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:47:51 -0500
Subject: Detroit Auto Show and other Ramblings
Message-ID: <#65>
So, me and the better half skipped across the river yesterday to check
out the Detroit Auto Show.
Crowded! More so that I remember last year's being. Between this, and
the fact that we weren't hunting for a new car, we didn't spend as much
time looking at stuff this year, but we did hit all the highlights.
First - not suprisingly, no Eagle in sight. Not that I blame Chrysler at
all; when you are getting rid of a marque, it only makes one car this
year, and there's an exact clone in a booth down the hall, it makes more
sense to use floorspace for models you are continuing to sell.
(especially when that floorspace is as expensive as it is)
It's a shame that Eagle got canned though, the 300M (which was going to
be the 98 Eagle Vision) is a spectacular car. Very Mercedes/BMW-esque.
Man, we've come a long way from the K car. :)
The Mitsu booth made up for it though. They had an example of each of
the Eclipse models (all apparently unchanged fo 98) and the GSX was
being swarmed by crowds of boy-racer types. Unfortunately, some
shallow-end-of-the-gene-pool moron had stolen the shift knob, all the
knobs off the radio, and all the climate control knobs too!
If you're on the list, what's with the knob collection, looking for more
of your own kind?
Also interesting, the 3000GT they had was a lower-end model, and didn't
seem to be getting much attention... I wonder if this means the 3k's
days are numbered...
The Mitsu concept cars: No way are either of these the next gen Eclipse
proto, they were clearly design studies. Both have made it into the
magazines before (I think they were at the show in Japan).
One looked like an escapee from the Robocop movies, the other was a
little more marketable. Both were definately sports cars. This, coupled
to the tone of the Mitsu ads I've been seeing in the press lead me to
believe that Mitsu has gotten the sports car religion in a big way.
Oh, and the model showing off the silver car gets my Babe of the Show
award. :)
Other noteables:
After sitting in an Avenger, an Eclipse, and a Sebring right after the
other, the commonality between these cars is unbelievable. Same dash,
same interior, same shifters... it would be worth finding out _exactly_
which parts are common between all the DSM models. I bet "Sebring" parts
are cheaper than "Talon" parts...
I sat in a 98 M3 trying hard to see if I could miss a shift, with
inconclusive results. Nice seats, funny dash. An MPG meter on a sports
coupe?
Plymouth Pronto: Wow, what a car. 2 seater, mid-engine, rear drive
convertable, powered by a supercharged Neon powertrain. Body made of
plastic, and it looked like maybe the car was molded in-color, not
painted. I bet we build this one, it's a lot more practical than the
Prowler (now available in yellow) and we built that...
New 911. Nice car, but it seems to have lost some character along the
way.
Ferrari: I want one. I booed the F1 car though. Was that blue paint on
the right front tire?
Aston Martin: I want one of these too. (Does admiring British cars mean
I'm getting old?)
Lots of race cars on hand: Mercedes GT1, a couple of Indy Cars, a
Ferrari F1 car, 2 SCCA WC cars (Saturn, and an NSX) 3 Neon Challenge
cars, Tommy Kendall's Trans Am Mustang (check out the accelerometer on
the dash) a Stratus Super Touring car, a Subaru Rally car (MacRae's, for
Rally fans) and the usual passle of NHRA and Wiston Cup cars.
*whew*
Oh, new Beetle. Very cute. HUGE display. The car has a FLOWER VASE built
into the dash!
One final thing, not related to the show.
Was filling up the car on Friday (93 octane at $1.10! Whoo hoo!) and a
boy racer type in a brand new sports truck pulls up in the stall next to
me. Looks over at the car, and his eyes bug out.
"Is that a Turbo AWD?"
"Yup"
"I got my _ass kicked_ (his emphasis) by one of those last night..."
(shakes his head, and goes back to fueling)
Heh. I love this car. :)
DG
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Mon, 12 Jan 1998 9:20:22 CST
"Tome" <[email protected]>
Subject: rotors
Message-ID: <#66>
>I know you can't resurface cross drilled rotors. My questions
>is, how likely are they to warp? Since the heat dissipation is
>improved, do they warp at all?
FRom what I understand, yes, cross drilled rotors can be turned and they
can be turned on a standard machine. Always use the slow turn method
for smooth surfaces.
Cross drilled rotors do warp, I'm here to tell ya. I've got them and
they do warp. If I had it to do all over again (and I will in a couple
of years) I would go with the big brake upgrade rather than spend money
on cross drilled-slotted rotors.
Cross drilled rotor work very well and stop very smoothy. I also have
the carbon pad which is rather dustless and bites the rotor
progressivly.
Good luck.
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 9:23:09 CST
Subject: steering racks
Message-ID: <#67>
I love this cold weather, (NOT)
My steering rack decided to blow a seal and bleed very violently. It
took about 5 minutes and all "power" assist was gone.
A local parts store sells "limited lifetime" warranted racks for $245,
not bad.
Anyone else have one of these go out. I've seen many racks drip fluid
and slowly go bad, in fact my Audi did that, but this is the first one
I've seen just blow like that.
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 9:35:12 CST
Subject: Re: engine stumbles
Message-ID: <#68>
>This is my first posting. I have a 92 Talon Tsi AWD Turbo auto 50k mi
>that is 95% stock. I have been experiencing an intermittent performance
>problem that I need some more insight into what may be the problem.
This seems to occur quite often. I'm still working on mine which has
been progressively getting worse. It seems to occur more when the air
is humid and/or raining.
I'm staring to suspect TPS (but then I've suspected a lot of things and
no answer yet). Is it possible to have a BOV which is opening and
closing really fast so as to mimic a "stumble"?
It could be the TPS sensing an incorrect throttle position and adjusting
things accordingly? This could explain why they problem appears not to
be there at WOT (TPS at furthest limit) Could the TPS be worn?
The answer it out there...
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:59:08 -0600
Subject: 1g upgrade exhaust
Message-ID: <#69>
Hi all,
I have been busy reading the archives in search of an upgrade I could make
to my 91 GSX. I am not sure I should do this to a car with 101k. Can it
be done? What is recommended for a car like mine (one that will not likely
see a racetrack any time soon. I would like a single 3". Many of you have
complained about HKS, at least those of you in winter conditions have. My
car is an everyday street car that gets its abuse in the fine wisconsin
winters. Obviously any exhaust would have to be stainless steel for this
place. Many of you have had good things to say about Bushur 3" exhausts.
Any data on this would be helpful.
Also I have been hearing (if I am understanding this correctly) that I can
adjust the boost on a stock turbo? How do you do it? I have the service
manual so any help here would be appreciated greatly.
Thanks in advance,
T Cade 91 GSX (ghost)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 98 07:46:13 MDT
Subject: broken exh. manifold studs
Message-ID: <#70>
>Same thing just happened to me. I was recharging the battery on my
>'90 Eclipse (prior to winter storage) when I noticed the exact same
>bolt/stud was broken flush with the exhaust manifold.
>Can anyone recommend a stronger replacement?
the solution isn't a stronger replacement, -- the studs are breaking
due to the manifold base warping. once it warps, it's pretty much
done doing so -- it takes a "set". just have the manifold base
milled flat. any shop that can mill heads can handle the manifold.
also, for the 1G cars, since the manifold needs to come off, this
would be a swell time to go w/ a 2'nd G manifold.
Mark Pilon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:56:21 -0600
From: SpeedRacer <[email protected]>
Subject: Parts for sale...looking for PMS
Message-ID: <#71>
For sale:
HKS VPC w/550cc chip and Graphic Control Computer for 1GT $800
HKS Intercooler core for '87 to '91 Supra Turbo
$450
Stock Syclone TD06-17C turbo, used, excellent cond.
$200
I am looking for a PMS system for my 92 Galant VR4. To add fuel to the
PMS vs VPC fire, I'll swap my VPC setup with any disgruntled PMS owner
who wants to trade.
Please RTP.
Steve Reiter
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 11:57:54 -0600
Subject: 92 GVR4 for sale
Message-ID: <#72>
My friend asked me to post his 92 Galant VR4 to the list. Its black,
79,000 miles, very clean except passenger door needs $200 worth of dent
doctor work, ACT clutch, K&N, 3" downpipe back, Greddy EGT, HKS EVC3.
Located in Houston, Texas. Asking $10,000, may take less.
Contact [email protected]
Steve Reiter
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 10:01:24 -0800
From: Dennison Lee <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [1G,T,AWD] Missing bolt
Message-ID: <#73>
Thanks to all those who replied regarding my missing bolt.
Den.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:31:52 -0500
Subject: Wierd Question Part 2
Message-ID: <#74>
Forgot to ask something about the Ultra 94 question that I remembered later
on after I wrote the other message! Didn't somebody mention that they had
cold starting problems because of
this gas or was that race gas? thanks again... and as before please reply by
email...
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:16:51 -0500
Subject: 3G Concept Car
Message-ID: <#75>
>The concept vehicle has a turbocharged,
>210-horsepower 4-cylinder engine, but Mitsubishi
>says it's designed to accept the full range of its
>engines, including a 3.5-liter V6.
OOoo ahhhh the best of all worlds! Our engine isn't dead, there is hope yet
for it! By the sounds of it, it's not just a concept car, but a concept car
that is based in some reality.
Maybe they'll just change the drivetrain, so that it's a bit beefier. We
can hope... :)
Andrew - 97 TSi AWD - Dreamin' of the next gen...
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:31:49 -0500
Subject: Spoilers, Pipes and Mits in Canada
Message-ID: <#76>
>I still think the
>car looks better with the spoiler on though and who knows maybe it has
>given me extra control and stability at high speeds. I'll just leave it
>where it is. For all those guys out there with the big high wings on the
>back of your car: did you buy it for its functional value? I doubt it.
I must agree... and on my 97 Talon, the aero-effects behind the car are
quite amazing to watch. At high speeds, through mist/fog you can really see
quite the swirl behind the car. What effect this is having other than
down-pressure on the rear end, is unknown, but it looks great through the
rear-view mirror. :)
>Anyways, one thing that always
>caught my attention about these cars, since I was always stuck behind
>them in traffic, was that one pipe on each muffler (outer pipes towards
>outside of car) were always black and sooty inside, whereas the inner
>two pipes were clean as a whistle.
You got it... if you look inside the pipes, the inner ones are simply welded
to the back of the muffler, with no hole punched through at all. The first
time I saw it, I was IN the dealer showroom, and I laughed my head off at
it. The salesman didn't even try and make excuses. He simply called them
cosmetic. :)
>The demise of the Talon means a lot more to us Canadians due to the fact
>that Mitsubishi does not sell North of the 49th.
It's ok, Mitsubishi is already here... as I understand it, they have 4
offices at present in Canada, in various cities, and are setting up to have
dealerships open in time to sell the 1999 model year of their cars. :)
[I'm sure it is no coincidence... -talon mgr]
Andrew - 97 TSi AWD
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:44:23 -0800
Precedence: list
Today's Topics:
1) Kyung Lee
help!
2) okazakik
Boost gauge
3) Mark Hoover
Copycat?
4) J. Chris Roth
Turbo Header
5) Jeff Brinkerhoff
'Stealth' Cat
6) Bill Shultz
Clutch longevity
7) John Q. Tran
[2G] Front License Plate Holes
8) Matthew Price
Various
9) TurboMike
95-96 starter kill - alarm [2G]
10) Robert Hayton
Setting Clock/Radio on 1G
11) N.B.Camene
fastest 2g fwd?
12) Gregory Haines
engine cut out
13) Bobby B
Carbon Fiber Mat
14) Carlos D. Butler
Radar detectors
15) Jason B Coogler
1G, T AWD, Brake pads
16) ToMo MuRaKaTa
MIVEC??
17) Carlos D. Butler
Detroit Auto Show - no knobs!
18) Colby J. Leonard
Re: MAS screw
19) Carnz4
TALON'S DEMISE
20) gsxguru
GVR4 Throttle Cable
21) Kyle Zingg
22) Gregg Horan
Re: broken exhaust studs <more tips>
23) Dave Larsen
24) Mung Bungholio
RE: pics on the HTML Digest
25) Warren C Daniel
Weirdo turn signal
26) Tome
Re: jerk drivers
27) Robert Deis
Stock boost gauge as a/f
28)
29)
30)
31)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
42)
Tom Stangl
Re: [1G, T] How to crank engine without starting?
Barry
Sears commercial
BlueTalon2
Its a joke!!!
Donald Spring
My 1st war story
Paul Hung
[2G] Scratched my butt
Ernie Cline
Sdjewett
re: fog light mod
David Darrow
Starter cut
Kyle Zingg
[1G] Brembo prices, Beemer fake exhaust?
David Darrow
Talon Replacement
Kyle Zingg
where's froggy?, [1G] radio problem
Brad
Throttle Position Sensor, Walbro pump
Warren C Daniel
Beaten by 3000GT VR-4! (kinda)
Mike Richman
Re: 1G 3 gauge A-pillar pods
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 15:12:58 -0500
From: Kyung Lee <[email protected]>
Subject: help!
Message-ID: <#1>
I have a 97 GST (18K miles) with minor mods: K&N aircharger, upper IC
and 1G BOV (Buscher Racing), Magnecor wires, and NGK colder range
plugs. Today, I turned the ignition and noticed that the CHECK ENGINE
light didn't go out. It stays on now and I am worried. It runs fine.
Could it be the weather that is affecting the OBD? (cold rain). It
didn't light up when it rained before...what could it be? I really
don't want to go to the dealer cause I'll have to put back the stock
pieces back (if it isn't that important...).
Please help.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:43:05 -0800
Subject: Boost gauge
Message-ID: <#2>
>Boost guages are nice beforehand to watch what the mods do, but not
>really necessary until you get a boost controller and turn the boost up.
Not true. A boost gauge is one of the first mods you should do.
You can run a dangerous amount of boost WITHOUT ever
connecting a boost controller! Each mod you do will slightly
alter the amount of boost (generally upwards). From my
experience, this is what moved my boost up the most:
Full 2.5" exhaust system w/test pipe: 3-4 psi
Upper IC pipe and cleaning IC: 1-2 psi
5/32" tubing on boost solenoid 2-3 psi
I now run 15-17 psi of boost with spikes to almost 19
occasionally. This is all without a boost controller. Hope this
helps you out...
Ken
90 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:31:12 -0600
From: "Mark Hoover" <[email protected]>
Subject: Copycat?
Message-ID: <#3>
Check out the new Mercury Cougar in this month's Car and Driver and see what
car this reminds you of.
96 AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:33:13 -0800
Subject: Turbo Header
Message-ID: <#4>
How much is the going rate for a Tubular Header for Turbo DSM's?
This one has reinforcements in all the places the old headers used
to crack so should be Turbo-safe. Just trying to get a feel for a
friend who isn't on the internet and wants to sell one that hasn't
even been put on his car yet. Please let me know if your interested
or just have an idea cause I couldn't even find an estimate from
the DSM parts trader.
Chris Roth
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:02:04 -0500
Subject: 'Stealth' Cat
Message-ID: <#5>
Okay,
I'm not *really* asking this, but suppose someone took a stock cat
converter and punched it out, but to avoid that nasty 'farting' noise, they
ran a nice lenght of pipe through it? (Or took a cat body and basically
skewered it with a nice Dave B 2.5" test pipe...) Making a nice fake cat...
(not feline...)
I'm sure resourseful people have done this, (obviously it wouldn't even
necessarily need to be a DSM cat for that matter) but I would appreciate a
RTP from anyone who has one. We have a 'visual' emissions inspection around
here, and a missing cat just won't cut it... No muffler shop would touch it
without a cat, and so on...
I'm sure a nice stealth cat can't be any more illegal than a test pipe, so
anyone want to make me one?
Not wanting to swap a converter back in every spring...
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:11:29 -0500
From: Bill Shultz <[email protected]>
Subject: Clutch longevity
Message-ID: <#6>
Hey all,
Just a random post on something I've been wondering:
I've got 132K+ miles on the ORIGINAL clutch in my 90 GSX, and was
wondering if it's some kind of record (I bought the car new). I've got
a brand-spankin' new CFDF in a box waiting for the stocker's ultimate
demise, but the original just seems to keep on going.
Can anyone out there top that?
Just curious,
Bill
90 GSX
(original turbo too ;^)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:14:52 -0500
From: "John Q. Tran" <[email protected]>
Subject: [2G] Front License Plate Holes
Message-ID: <#7>
I didn't think about the front license plate holes when I first took
delivery of my GSX. I took off my front license plate holder and found two
ugly holes. Is there an inexpensive way to cover the holes or atleast make
it look better, short of going to a body shop or getting a new front facia?
I searched the archives, but couldn't find an definitive answer.
John Tran
aka Tranman
'98 Black GSX (1700 miles on the Odometer, just waiting for mods)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:11:44 EST
From: "Matthew Price" <[email protected]>
Subject: Various
Message-ID: <#8>
Hi Gang. Just a couple things on my mind...
I got no responses from people willing to buy my exhaust, so I'll try
again. If you are within driving distance of Detriot, have an AWD 2g,
and want a full 3" exhaust, let me know. I will let it go cheap. I need
your old exhaust in exchange, but you would be getting a 3" downpipe, 3"
test pipe, Hi-Flow 3" Cat, and 3" cat-back. The system is fairly loud
but livable. A different muffler could be swapped in if the noise is too
much. The whole system is 3" aluminized mandrel bent tube, perfect
condition.
I need to sell the exhaust, and the car for that matter, soon because
I'll be going off to school in Australia in a month.
On another subject: I was just at Club DSM, and read "That's right, low
elevens, no nitrous!" under racing. Could we give those 10 second
monsters the recognition they deserve? I also noticed the times page is
kind of buried under racing. Could that be made more prominent? I am
pretty proud of what I and other members have been able to do with 122
cubic inches.
As always, I bow to Todd the Great, without whom I'd probably be driving
something with more pistons, fewer drive wheels, and no class.
Matt Price
90 Turbo Grand Prix
95 AWD - "LIL 4X4" (Please Buy Me!)
90 AWD - <Under Construction>
By the way, I drove to work today and nothing broke. That was in the
Grand Prix though. Nothing broke on the 95 AWD when I drove it last
weekend!
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:26:47 -0500
Subject: 95-96 starter kill - alarm [2G]
Message-ID: <#9>
>I was mucking with the factory alarm a while back and noticed
>in the '95 schematic that there is indeed a cut-out relay but
>it is _in parallel_ with the clutch switch. I.e. if you depress
>the cluctch it effectively bypasses the open relay that the
>alarm uses to 'disable' the starter.
The Starter Relay in M/T cars is a reverse relay. Ie: When its on
it cuts the continuity, when its off power gets to the starter
motor. So only when the Clutch Pedal Switch is off (clutch
pressed in) AND the Alarm Starter Relay is off (alarm not triggered)
will the starter motor operate. If EITHER the clutch is not pushed
in OR the alarm has the Alarm Starter Relay turned on, then the
Starter Relay is on, and it cuts power to the starter motor.
Automatic cars have a normal "continuity only when on" relay since
there is no clutch pedal switch.
95-96 cars should NOT start while the alarm is triggered.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:50:49 -0800
From: Robert Hayton <[email protected]>
Subject: Setting Clock/Radio on 1G
Message-ID: <#10>
Would somebody please give me a hint as to how to set the clock and
program radio stations on my 1G Eclipse with the base radio?
I managed to hit some unknown combination(s) of buttons at random when
daylight savings ended, but couldn't manage to duplicate it!
Thanks!
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:56:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: fastest 2g fwd?
Message-ID: <#11>
Quick question for all you trivia buffs ou there. What times are the fastest
2g FWD's running and with what setup? Slick times vs. street tire times? 16G
vs. 20G? Any Clues?
Nick
Valu-Jet
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:06:36 -0500
Subject: engine cut out
Message-ID: <#12>
I keep waiting for someone to mention that little printed
circuit to the right of the steering wheel under the dash.
You remove it and car stays. I'd think it's redundant to
have a cut-off in the alarm system and the auxiliary
anti-theft card both working.
Greg Haines
PbPedis
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:18:15 -0600
Subject: Carbon Fiber Mat
Message-ID: <#13>
Hey all
I remember reading a while back that somewhere sold carbon fiber in a
roll and was backed with 3M tape. You could order it by the roll for
covering stuff in custom applications. I was wondering if anyone happens to
remember what company sold this stuff (please dont say Amsoil)? Thank you
in advance, I appreciate it.
To add some DSM content, man, my upper IC pipe keeps blowing off. The
little clamp that holds the rubber to the pipe (where the pipe connects to
the IC) always blows off and I have to retighten it. Is there anywhere I
can buy a new one of these clamps (perhaps Autozone?). The reasons it
always blows off is because I had to daisy chain two of the stock clamps to
make one that fit, because my Dave B upper IC did NOT come with any of the
clamps needed to attatch the rubber connectors to it. Anyways, just want
some input here :)
Thanks guys,
Bobby Bernauer
PS. Does the digest feel like a family to anyone else, or do I need to get
out more?
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:17:36 -0600
From: "Carlos D. Butler" <[email protected]>
Subject: Radar detectors
Message-ID: <#14>
I'm driving from Chicago to San Antonio this weekend, and it just strick
me that I should get a radar detector. I only plan to do about 80 MPH,
but in some places, that's all it takes.
If I had the time, I'd get a Valentine One, but I don't. So what the
best detector I can get on short notice -- like by Thurday. Cost is no
object.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:36:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Jason B Coogler <[email protected]>
Subject: 1G, T AWD, Brake pads
Message-ID: <#15>
As everyone knows, our cars are on the "underbraked" side. the time is
coming up for me to do my brakes... I don't have the money for the BIG
BRAKE upgrade (no where close) So I was wondering what would be a
good"performance" brake pad to buy? I don't do a lot of racing, but
still, good brakes never hurt (unless u maybe don't have them...)
Any info appreciated. Please post to me directly.
Thanks-Jason 91 Tsi
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:41:46 -0800 (PST)
From: ToMo MuRaKaTa <[email protected]>
Subject: MIVEC??
Message-ID: <#16>
So does anyone know much about this MIVEC technology that Mitsubishi
developed and is willing to explain it? They have 1.6l 4cyl Mirage engines
running 175hp at 7500rpm (pretty high, I wonder what the redline is at...)
without a turbo in Japan. Is this some kind of a VTEC (Valves tick
engine cracks...still find that funny) or some completely new idea?
Tomo Murakata
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:46:18 -0600
From: "Carlos D. Butler" <[email protected]>
Subject: Detroit Auto Show - no knobs!
Message-ID: <#17>
>Unfortunately, some
>shallow-end-of-the-gene-pool moron had stolen the shift knob, all the
>knobs off the radio, and all the climate control knobs too!
Actually, Mitsu probably took them off. I was talking to a Toyota
company rep at Chicago's auto show 2 years ago and they said they
learned to take all the knobs off for the general public.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:46:07 -0700
From: "Colby J. Leonard" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: MAS screw
Message-ID: <#18>
Ok, here's the scoop on the MAS screw to the best of my knowledge...by
backing
this screw out, you allow more unmetered air to pass which results in a leaner
air/fuel ratio. DO NOT back it out without a) an A/F gauge or b) a trusty
voltmeter hooked up to your O2 sensor (inside under passenger footwell).
Back
it out a little, drive around and see what your reading is at WOT. Stock is
quite rich (.95 or so), ideal is .85-.88. Keep backing it out until you reach
this number. This will not only make your car peppier, but also should help
gas mileage AND as an added bonus will help deter fuel cut. How much you
can
back it out varies from car to car and also where you live. Living up in the
clouds, I was able to completely back mine out and still have a WOT O2
reading
of ~.88! So yes, if you back it out too much you can run to lean and melt
your pistons, but if done right I give this mod two very enthusiastic thumbs
up!
Colby Leonard
'90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 03:09:03 EST
From: Carnz4 <[email protected]>
Subject: TALON'S DEMISE
Message-ID: <#19>
Fellow DSMer's, D-Day for the Eagle Talon is the 26th of January. That is when
we put the last one on the manufacturing line. All antenna's should be at
half-mast. ( if it were possible )
Long Live DSM'S
"ARNZ" McKinnis
96 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 06:48:13 -0600
From: gsxguru <[email protected]>
Subject: GVR4 Throttle Cable
Message-ID: <#20>
>I've found as a passenger that I can feel the car jerk just a tiny bit
>every so often when he is driving, especially in some traffic. I try to
>keep pedal movement very smooth - this is translating to better MPG.
This brings up a question not totally unrelated to gas milage. I have
had my GVR4 for about 2 months and I found out that the throttle cable
had been replaced under warranty byt the previous owner. I was having
problems easing the throttle and tried to lube it with silicone and it
lasted about 3-4 weeks. So I lubed it with WD-40 and it has been
working better than the silicon. I was wondering if anyone else with a
GVR4 (or any DSM for that matter) has had any problems with the throttle
cable sticking pretty bad. Can anyone give any hints clues? Thanks.
Ken Schlorf
'92 GSX
'92 GVR4 678/1000
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 07:53:10 -0500
Message-ID: <#21>
>>Well Plymouth has released the concept PLYMOUTH PRONTO SPYDER.
Could
>>this be the Talon Replacement? 0-60 in 5.3sec 1/4 mile in 13.8 (?),
>>STOCK!
>There's like zero chance of this. The pronto is pure show car.
Just to stir the waters for fun...
I too highly doubt that the Pronto will go production, but it is very
possible. I think they look good, though, and two reasons why it might:
1) Built with a lot of existing tooling (Neon floorplan, driveline,
suspension), with an emphasis on production ability. The main one-off
show parts are the body and interior.
2) Chrysler's track record - Neon, Viper, Prowler, Intrepid ESX all
went from show to production with very little styling change.
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:52:59 -0500
From: Gregg Horan <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: broken exhaust studs <more tips>
Message-ID: <#22>
>If it is broken at the cylinder head then use an eazy out.
>Drill the recommended size hole in the very center of the stud.
I personally will never buy a "screw-in" easy out again. They
have too much bite for their strength... and once they are in,
you might have trouble backing them out if they don't work. I
prefer the square "tap-in" ones. If you can't get THOSE to do
the job, the extra bite of a screw in one would cause it to snap
anyway.
Also, another tip is to use left-hand drill bits when drilling
the stud. If you are lucky, and use plenty of oil/lube, the
thing just might back out while you are drilling. With a normal
bit, it might go a bit deeper, in which case you lose your
"depth datum" and it's tough to see how deep you are.
One more... If you are hand drilling for a heli-coil (which I
would suggest after drilling a stud), drill 1/64 smaller to
compensate for hand shaking etc. The tap will eat thru AL
pretty easily anyway, then your helicoil will have plenty of
bite.
Gregg Horan
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:30:31 -0600 (CST)
From: "Dave Larsen" <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <#23>
>>I have noticed that when I'm driving on slippery roads that my 92 AWD will
get
>>VERY unstable. Admittedly, it is time for new rear tires, but...
I'm the original poster.
>Rear tires would be a great idea to start off with, if the ones you have are
>toast.
Tires were the problem. I replaced only the rears which were in pretty rough
shape. The problem went away. I think that because the front tire were good
and
the back tires were shot there was some sort of slippage condition that
confused
the AWD system. I do still think it was something to do with the AWD and not
just worn tires.
Thanks for all the useful replys.
Dave
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:05:48 -0500
Subject: RE: pics on the HTML Digest
Message-ID: <#24>
>>Todd, what is the reason for no pics or diagrams on the HTML Digest? If
>>people can receive the HTML then why not submit in HTML version?
>The work involved for such a project makes this idea prohibitive.
>Also, the load on my company's web connection would be too great.
Correct me if I am wrong but you should be able to put a picture that is
stored on your personal site on the HTML digest. This shouldn't cause any
problems with Todd's web server because the images would be loading from
the server where your page is stored. Anyone with a browser that doesn't
support pictures should still get the text and if you use alt tags you can
describe the image. If anyone needs web space for this, to make a DSM
page or anything I can give you 5 megs a space for $5.00 a month.
[The problem is that this person is asking for in-line images. There
is really no easy way to do that short of writing HTML into messages
sent to the digest. I don't want to do that - I want the digest to
be text only, not have a lot of annoying HTML laying around everywhere.
There is one thing I could do. If a URL ends in .jpg, .jpeg, or .gif,
I could make the digestifier output an IMG tag.
Sorta like _this_ - http://www.dsm.org/ToddLaunch.jpg
*or*
maybe like _this_ - www.dsm.org/g/club.gif
What do you think? :-)
BTW, abuse it, you lose it. No gratuitous picture adding allowed.
-talon mgr]
I have to say a big thanks to Buschur Racing. I was in bad need of some
valves to fix the T-belt disaster I had. They were on their way out of
town and still managed to get me the valves faster than I got any of the
other parts. Oh yeah and they were cheaper than anyone else also. Thanks
again guys!
[BTW - I've always wondered - how much work do the heads usually need
when the valves get bent? How about the pistons? I'm talking the
typical timing belt disaster here... -talon mgr]
I should be getting the Talon back in the next day or two after having
replaced all of the valves and guides. Do I need to do anything special to
break it in or is that just if you have lower end work done?
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:28:25 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Weirdo turn signal
Message-ID: <#25>
Greetings Earthings,
I have a problem with my 96 GS-T spaceship.
The right turn signal sometimes blinks fast
like the turn signal bulb has blown out.
Other times it's normal.
The problems started before I hooked up my
Profec B or any electronics. I've replaced
the light bulb twice with even the heavy
duty type bulbs.
At this point, I believe it's a bad relay. Any
of you Earthlings out there have a clue?
Thanks,
Warren
'96 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 9:52:47 CST
Subject: Re: jerk drivers
Message-ID: <#26>
>I've found as a passenger that I can feel the car jerk just a tiny bit
>every so often when he is driving, especially in some traffic. I try to
>keep pedal movement very smooth - this is translating to better MPG.
Yes! I hate that. I've been in cars with people who are constantly
pushing that pedal in and out, in and out. You can feel it. As your
sitting there trying to be part of a conversation all you can notice is
the car jerking forward every so often. These are usually the same
people who come up on a stop sign and attempt to scare it by waiting
until the last second and then 'hitting' the brake. Smooth is not their
style. So, it pays to be smooth.
Pet peeve mode off: :)
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:24:15 -0700
Subject: Stock boost gauge as a/f
Message-ID: <#27>
Sorry- double post
I know I've seen people talk about setting up the stock boost gauge as
an a/f gauge by attaching it to the O2 sensor, but I couldn't find
anything in the archives...
What voltage range does the stock boost gauge display? Is it 0-1v like
the O2 sensor outputs, or will I need a resistor?
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:16:54 -0800
Subject: Re: [1G, T] How to crank engine without starting?
Message-ID: <#28>
>I replaced my power steering pressure hose, and I need to bleed the system.
>The Chrysler factory manual indicates that it's necessary to crank the engine
>over on the starter while turning the steering wheel back and forth. To
>prevent the engine from starting...
...just pull the MPI fuse (it is on the positive battery cable), and you
can crank it over forever without it starting.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 18:33:39 -0500
Subject: Sears commercial
Message-ID: <#29>
Anyone see the Sears tire commercial on Sunday? I'm sure it will be on
again. A black Talon with (?) quarters for tires. Don't ask me, I didn't
think up that one!. Anyway the Talon gets 30 seconds of fame. I'm sure
the ad guys made a conscious decision NOT to use the over bought, over
seen, "everyone has one" Eclipse. Instread opting to use the exclusive,
sexy, "hey, buddy what kind of car is that..." Eagle Talon. The best
looking car since the AC Cobra.
Barry Salsi - Talon AWD 1997
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 20:15:11 EST
Subject: Its a joke!!!
Message-ID: <#30>
>I didn't like it, nonetheless. Hope not too many other people
>felt it was a laughing matter either.
>RUFRIDR "HANK" Bell
Geez didn't you guys get that Hank was kidding. Hell the title of the post was
"Sarcasm"!
Anyway on a not so funny matter. I changed the brake pads on my GF's 323 this
weekend. The pads were worn so pad that the warning tab had broken off and
they had worn down all of the brake material and was stopping with the
backing. It broke my heart to think what couldv'e happened to her. So for
those of you with with significant others who aren't too car savvy, please
look out for them, especially if she ever answers "What's a tune-up?" when you
ask her about the last time her plugs got changed.
Mario
Porche Killer
90 Talon Ts AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 01:18:56 -0800
Subject: My 1st war story
Message-ID: <#31>
Well I had my 1st race tonight driving a turbocharged vehicle, only it
wasn't a DSM. Tonight I was sporting a '96 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins
Turbodiesel. I had borrowed it from my grandparents to move a waterbed. I
pulled up to the light, looked over to the right lane next to me and up
pulls a late model Nissan pickup (OOOH's and AHHH's echo throughout the
room). The guys is looking at me and inching up like he wants to race me,
so I say what the heck. The light turns green...I put my foot to the
floor...we both pull away from the intersection at a moderate
pace... and I pull ahead by about 1-2 car lengths. The best part is,
I had two passengers and the bed in the back and still won. Not exactly
meant to be overly exciting, but hey, once again turbo power rules. This
really has little or no DSM content actually, except some comparisons of
turbos. I popped the hood and right there next to the engine is this huge
turbo. I mean I've seen pics of 20g's but this thing was huge. It must of
had a 5 or 6 inch inlet. The most surprising thing was the size of the
intercooler. I swear the thing was bigger than the radiator and oil cooler
combined. It spanned the whole width of the engine bay up front and it had
3" piping throughout. Biggest intercooler I've ever seen. Another cool
thing I noticed was a startup feature. Before you start it you have to
turn the key to "on" and wait a few seconds till a light goes off. I had
always wondered why, and after seeing that monster turbo I got to thinking
it was to circulate some oil in the turbo before startup. Just a guess.
Anyway, sorry to bore you with my lame story, but it's all I got. Later.
Jason Spring
'94 Eclipse GS
P.S. I just thought of something. Don't larger turbos usually have bad
lag? This diesel truck redlines at about 3200 rpm. Seems like you'd never
get out of the lag.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 15:25:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Paul Hung <[email protected]>
Subject: [2G] Scratched my butt
Message-ID: <#33>
Hi everyone,
Looking for a parking space today, I wandered into a small lot somewhere on
campus. I couldn't fine a space so I started backing out. CRUNCH! I backed
into a green pole. I ran out to check the car and found that I had a foot
long scratch on my butt. Does anyone know a way to fix this cosmetic blemish
on the 2G plastic butt? If not...anyone replace the 95GSX butt with a 97-98
butt?
Thanks.
Paul with the 95GSX scratchy butt
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:07:18 -0500
From: Ernie Cline <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <#34>
>>Well Plymouth has released the concept PLYMOUTH PRONT SPYDER. Could
>>this be the Talon Replacement?
>There's like zero change of this. The pronto is pure show car.
I think people said the same thing of the Viper, and probably the same
thing about the Prowler. But they made those. They are more 'image'
cars for Chrysler, and I doubt they make any real money off of them, but
it helps the image. The Pronto has Neon a neon drivetrain, but
supercharged, and I also doubt it will make production too, but hey, you
never know. I also doubt I'd ever even consider buying one... now if It
had the 2.0l mits engine, instead of that buzzy, under-achieving neon
motor, we'll talk...
Ernie
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:21:41 EST
Subject: re: fog light mod
Message-ID: <#35>
Hello,
>What is the easiest way to get my foglights to be able to come on
>with just the parking lights on.
I have this mod on my 91. What I did was, take the fog light switch out and
test the connections for power. One should have power with the headlights on
low beam and no power with just parking lights on. Simply jumper those two
together and your set. I wish I could tell you the exact wires but it's been
too long ago for me to remember.
I also have it where my fogs and low beams stay on with the high beams too.
Later,
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:39:33 -0500
From: David Darrow <[email protected]>
Subject: Starter cut
Message-ID: <#36>
>I was mucking with the factory alarm a while back and noticed
>in the '95 schematic that there is indeed a cut-out relay but
>it is _in parallel_ with the clutch switch. I.e. if you depress
>the cluctch it effectively bypasses the open relay that the
>alarm uses to 'disable' the starter.
I think this information makes it pretty obvious. The starter cut relay is
not for the alarm, its for the clutch position. On 95 MTs (what others I
don't know) you can't start the car without holding down the clutch.
BTW, my CodeAlarm has starter cut, but I still want the "pedal sequence"
TMO mod for added security. I Wonder if I can get an extra discount off my
insurance premium for it.
d3 `-{>
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 12:53:02 -0500
Subject: [1G] Brembo prices, Beemer fake exhaust?
Message-ID: <#37>
...Sorry for the double post
A number of people inquired how I was getting Brembo front brake rotors
for so cheap for the 1G cars. My local CarQuest parts dealer carries
them, but they don't know who ultimately supplies the rotors, so no help
there.
However, their prices should be representative, I would think: '90 AWD=
$38, '93 AWD (Big Brakes)= $45 per front rotor. Shop around and ask.
When looking for Big Brake rotors for my car, prices ranged from
$45-$75/each, and the $75 rotors were a no-name brand.
[non DSM content]
speaking of fake (or odd) exhaust piping, what's with the BMW 328is? I
could swear that one of the exhaust tips on the 328 in front of me this
morning had a butterfly valve in it! Anybody know if what I saw was
accurate? Is it BMW's way of altering exhaust flow @RPM? Just curious.
Thanks,
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:12:45 -0500
From: David Darrow <[email protected]>
Subject: Talon Replacement
Message-ID: <#38>
>There's like zero change of this. The pronto is pure show car.
Although the Pronto is a concept car, it is designed with production in
mind. Several Chrysler concept cars have made it to production (Neon,
Viper, Prowler), so it is very likely that this one could as well. I think
they even have a target price for it, most pure-show concept cars don't
have that. Many don't even have real engines, where C&D even test-drove the
Pronto.
I think it just shows proof that Chrysler is looking beyond the Talon now.
BTW, I was watching Discovery Channel News recently and saw a segment on
plastic body cars. They were pointing out features like significant weight
loss while maintaining structural integrity and the elimination of paint
costs, since they could use colored plastic. The cars they were planning
it for? A futuristic Intrepid and, *aha*, the Pronto.
d3 `-{>
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:44:14 -0500
Subject: where's froggy?, [1G] radio problem
Message-ID: <#39>
me again...
Has anybody heard from Jason Lanstra (Froggy) lately? I sent him a
check 3 months ago for a Club DSM license plate frame, Emailed him a few
times, and haven't heard a word. He hasn't even cashed my check. Just
wondering if anybody knew what was up.
Also, I tried to Email Gary Wong, but evidently he is no longer with
us. Does anybody have a solution to the following?
>I have a 90 GSX with the cassette/equalizer unit. The FM tuner is breaking
>down. Most of the time I hear just static noise, but sometimes the FM
>stations come back and sound fine. The AM tuner and tape player works
>fine all the time. Does anyone knows what the problem is and how to fix
>it?
I have this exact same problem, except that the tuner only cuts out in
high humidity weather. Has anyone figured this out? Sounds like
something is going bad on the IC board internally. The other
interesting fact is that if I turn up the volume, the radio will come
back in at some point. Needless to say, on humid days I set the EQ to
full minimum and crank up the volume. It seems to work ok, and my ears
don't bleed at all unless I accidentally turn the EQ off (OUCH!).
Thanks,
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:52:37 -0600
From: Brad <[email protected]>
Subject: Throttle Position Sensor, Walbro pump
Message-ID: <#40>
Since I recently had a problem with a TPS, maybe this will help someone
else to diagnose a potential problem with theirs. My check engine light
began to come on at various times at various speeds. The only constant
seemed to be that it would stay on if the throttle was held at one
position for awhile. It didn't seem to affect performance unless the
light stayed on for more than a few minutes. Then, if I hit the gas,
the car would buck and jump pretty bad.
After a few days the light showed up more and more. I'd be sitting at a
stoplight, the check engine would come on, and I just knew if I didn't
baby the gas the car would buck. Which it always did. Well, a quick
scan of the code pointed to the TPS. I replaced the sensor with one
sent to me by a helpful Canadian DSMer (Thanks, Lowell! Eh?), and no
problems since. Just thought this might help those who may be
experiencing a similar problem.
The other weekend I finally installed the Walbro fuel pump I had sitting
here for almost two months. After getting it, I decided not to cut the
fuel pump assembly, so it sat. And sat. Then I took a look at the
thing and thought it would only need a different o-ring to get a proper
seal -- no cutting necessary. I guess the company realized that too and
now has a kit for 1Gs. Anyway, a quick trip to the hardware store and
multiple hours later... success! Man, that fuel fitting was tight
though...
The car ran fine with no problems except for one: with the pump
installed, all I could hear from the back of the car was, "I want a
soda! Timmy's pulling my hair! Are we there yet?" The pump whined
like a little kid! Hehehe. It wasn't really bad, per se, but it was
certainly noticeable over the stock pump. I guess that's to be expected
for flowing another 150% or so over the stocker though.
Perhaps it was my install, plus I hadn't put any of the carpeting or
anything back in either, who knows. Actually, for those who like car
sounds such as loud exhaust and the like, this would be good. I
remember the phrase "makes the car sound like a jet fighter" being
mentioned. Like I said, it wasn't really *bad*, just noticeable. I now
have a race-tested, mother-approved 3000gtVR4 pump in there. Quieter,
flows less, and costs more. Hmmmm, I'm not quite sure if those are good
tradeoffs or not.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:55:14 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Beaten by 3000GT VR-4! (kinda)
Message-ID: <#41>
Hey Everybody,
Lunchtime is becoming more and more interesting
for me. Every lunch, I run across a supercar!
Today I ran across what had to be a 500-600HP
red 3000GT VR-4. I cranked the Profec to 15, the
guy and I look at each other, and floor it.
I started fuel cutting like crazy @ 15psi! Out the door
this morning was 1 degree in Chicago. We were racing
at maybe 10 degrees and I haven't installed my new fuel
pump. Without the pump and 18 psi, I figured I wouldn't
be competitive, but ahhh... You only live once, right?
I wanted a fair run to see what my HP would be like compared to this guy.
At times, I would get on the accelerator before he would,
having to easy off before running up his butt. Other times,
he'd get on it before me and march away. I was up his butt
to the point I was watching his speed activated rear spoiler
*and* the rubber mounts it sits on, along with his dual 5"
exhausts. His exhaust smoke from redline was trickling over
my hood! The 16G was making power all the way to
7000 rpms... My mind was screaming "SHIFT!"
Bang, we were hauling through gears.
But holy crap! This guy was insane! We're zooming through
lunch traffic @ 130 mph and he would cut between cars
with no space! You know how normally you can see
the flow of traffic and could tell which way a car would
go? I had no clue! Left? Right? I had no idea!
Most times, all lanes had no space.
I'm chasing this guy across all 4 - 5 lanes!
Finally, I got a fair shot. No cars. We looked at each other,
smiled and punched it at the same time. This time, we were
dead even, dispite my sputtering. We went through 120, 130, 135
and then I think, "He's going all the way..." I'm watching the
speedo. 136... 137... 138... And then it happened... "Grrrrr, sputter,
sputter, sputter, grrr, sputter, grrrrrr..." I hit the top end limiter again!
I was screaming, "Damn it, damn it, damn it!", like one of those
kids from that animation "South Park." The VR-4 just marched
away up to 150 mph.
He slows down, I pull up next to him, and he gives me the nod and
wave, looking my car over. He was probably thinking, "Hmm, fast
little f**cker..." I've beaten Corvettes left and right and I got
my Greddy handed to me by our big brother, the 3000GT VR-4.
Great competition!
Todd, I've got to get my ECU to you.
Warren
96 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:33:52 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: 1G 3 gauge A-pillar pods
Message-ID: <#42>
>How's the 1G 3-gauge a-pillar coming along?
>Is it available yet? How much?
Lyle, the guy who is making these, emailed me around Christmas that he had a
prototype ready. So, I think he is either ready to sell them or very close
and the email of 20 DSM owners will spur him to get them out the door. Just
email Lyle at Lotek
[email protected]
Ask him for the 3 pod 1G A-pillar mount. Tell him what color you want.
Tell him I sent you and you are from this list. I believe he is going to
charge around $50, which (IMO) is very reasonable for a full A-pillar
replacement and the level of craftsmanship in his products. Good luck.
Mike
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:00:02 -0800
Precedence: list
[I recently updated the M3 donations page at
http://www.dsm.org/~today/overrev/m3overrev.htm
Check to make sure I haven't forgotten you.
-talon mgr]
Today's Topics:
1) mkline
1g, 2g Wheel fit
2) Paul Lyons
Do you need factory parts? [all]
3) Mike Miller
Update on installs
4) Jason B Coogler
looking for help buying used car
5) Chad Merritt
Power loss problem [1g,T,AWD]
6) ECBLUZE
no compression
7) Extreme Motorsports PMS/VPC controversy
8) Jeff
News report of Jeff's accident -->Chicago Herald
9) Steve
Re: MAS screw
10) TurboMike
Re: starter kill/replacing ETACS-ECU to disable al
11) Derrick Chan
Re: fastest 2g fwd?
12) Dan Henderson
Really bad Gas Mileage
13) DanHurwitz
My oil cooler was loose, too; MPG
14) James J. Heck
RE:AWD, fear, & slippery roads
15) Scott Guth
What's up with my CV joints?
16) DanHurwitz
Irresponsible driving
18) Brian Byers
[2G] Front License Plate Holes
19) Tom Stangl
Walbro pump purchase info - less than a week left
20) Mark Mischler
Bondurant
21) Brian Byers
2G Fog Light Mod
22) Tom Stangl
Re: Stock boost gauge as a/f
23) Chad Gray
[1G] radio problem
24) Scott Croughwell
Re: Turbo header
25) Carnz4
Mitsubishi SST
26) Ray Johns
1997 GSX - ** FOR SALE **
27) Lorrin Barth
AWD traction problems and tires
28) John Coggi
Clutch record
29) Tami Mertz
ignition fuse/relay problems
30) SWUNKER
Pronto Spyder, high DSM's
31) ThomasS8
Measuring torque
32) Frank Mowry
RE: 1g radio problem
33) Kevin Shimp
MAS screw on 2G's?
34) Jim Schuster
Re: Racing insane people
35) Devil Bat
Security and insurance...
36) Dennis Grant
Diesel Tech (somewhat off topic)
37) Kevin Sommer
Electronics shutting down
38) Steve Calbert
Re: plastic body cars
39) Kevin Sommer
Clutch Contest
40) Steve Calbert
Re: My 1st war story
Re: starter kill/replacing ETACS-ECU to disable al
Re: engine cut out
43)
44)
45)
46)
47)
48)
49)
50)
51)
52)
53)
54)
55)
56)
57)
58)
59)
60)
61)
62)
63)
64)
65)
Jeff Brinkerhoff
Market for 'Stealth Cat'
mkline
(cbs) RE: Cummins Turbo Diesel
Jim Farrington
[1GT] Stumbling at 7+ boost
Andrew Bienhaus
Re: TALON'S DEMISE
Andrew Bienhaus
Talon commercial
Vineet Singh
Top this (clutch)
bullotta
(1G,T,AWD) Speedometer Calibration for AWD? and ot
Lee Glenn
re: Clutch longevity [1G, T]
okazakik
Stock clutch and turbo reliability
Warren C Daniel
fastest 2G FWD
Matt Jannusch
Re: 'Stealth' cat
Ernie Cline
Re: pics on the HTML Digest/Timing Belt disaster.
Donald Spring
Turbo Diesels and me
Jeff Brinkerhoff
PS leaks
Sdjewett
re: boost gauge not neccessary
Denke, Ryan (AZ75) Turbos, Club DSM SW
Thomas A Brady
Rotors
Mike Montalvo
0-100-0
Juan Laguna [ESRI-Re Question on tire replacement
RUFRIDR
Sarcasm Revisited
Robert Deis
Winter Gas vs. O2 Sensor
David Scott
Clutch Mileage
scott miller
- AN Fittings for High Pressure Hoses
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 17:31:31 -0500
Subject: 1g, 2g Wheel fit
Message-ID: <#1>
I'm thinking of getting 2nd gen wheels for my 90 TSi AWD. Will they fit?
Mike Kline
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:24:23 -0600
Subject: Do you need factory parts? [all]
Message-ID: <#2>
Hi all
This is a shameless plug for my parts supplier.
I have had very good service and he has beaten
the prices quotes from all suppliers I have tried
including www.worldparts.com.
Naturally these are stock pieces and not ported.
If you want those try somebody else.
Contact:
Scott Trumbo
1-800-800-0853
FAX 1-405-360-2432
BTW there is a new mitsu parts warehouse in Dallas so
he can get parts quickly and he has agreed to stock some
common items so that people may get items quickly. No mitsu
parts warehouse can drop ship so anybody you go through will
have gotten parts from a warehouse and then ship them on.
Happy trails all.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 18:35:41 -0600
From: Mike Miller <[email protected]>
Subject: Update on installs
Message-ID: <#3>
Hello everyone,
I recently added a dual gauge a-pillar pod and a trunk release module.
If any have done this then you know it is fairly simple, but it was a
fun project. I'm going to try and get pictures of the pod and where I
mounted the trunk release module. If anybody is interested, let me
know.
I added a cyberdyne A/F gauge and a VDO voltage gauge to my gauge
collection. I put the A/F and my boost gage in the a pillar and the
volt gauge is in a cup on the side of the radio console. I like the way
the a-pillar pod looks. Right now the double sided tape is holding and
hopefully will not come done until maybe summer. I also put a red bulb
cover on my boost gage light to match the A/F. Plus I would like to
thank everyone who sent me e-mails and pics of the dual pod. I was
originally worried about how big it was, but with the pics I new it
would look good.
The trunk release took some work, but with Chad Merrit's help, I was
able to do it. I got the part from a place called Parts Express for
only $20.00. It was a nice addition to my Clifford alarm.
Now a question or two:
I have replaced my factory dash speakers with some Pioneer 3 1/2's that
came off my old car. I tried to put some 4" JBL's in there and I got
the Pass. side one in, but the driver side has no depth. The hole only
goes down about 1 1/2". Has anybody succeeded in doing this and how did
you do it? I have the 3 1/2 pioneers and Alpine tweets in the dash and
would like to replace them some 4" JBL components.
Also anybody know if local parts stores sell something to wrap up my
Downpipe. Someone mentioned that this might help get rid of the VW
sound I and others get while accelerating. It started after I added a
Dave B. DP and TP --- I have checked for exhaust leaks and could not
find any.
The Digest sure does make life more enjoyable -- I would be bored
without it
Thanks Todd!
Thanks,
Mike M.
93 Tsi FWD
ellisz on IRC
-----------------------------Date:
Tue, 13 Jan 1998 16:36:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Jason B Coogler <[email protected]>
Subject: looking for help buying used car
Message-ID: <#4>
[RTP]
Sorry for the non-dsm content, sorta. A friend of mine is looking to buy a
used car.I'm charged w/helping her find a car to buy, most likely used. So
I was wondering if you guys could help me
out by showing me some web sites that would be helpful. Such as ones
dealing with the kellyblue book price, value of the car, and especially how
certain cars rate quality wise, what potential problems to look out for.
I'm trying to talk het into a dsm, but she has sights set on a jetta,
typical girl car, but prob perfect for her.
Again any help greatly appreciated!-Jason 91 Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:01:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Chad Merritt <[email protected]>
Subject: Power loss problem [1g,T,AWD]
Message-ID: <#5>
I'm wondering if someone might be able to help me out. I'm losing power
in first and sometimes second gear. If I launch some what hard, the turbo
spools up completely (according to my VDO) but then I get a large hissing
sound and lose every ounce of power to the point where it literally feels
like the car is breaking. The harder I push the gas the more it feels
like it's slowing down. It also does it alittle in second. It almost
seems like the faster the turbo spools, the less power I have. Never
seems to happen in third or above though. Also, if I ease into the boost,
it still pretty much does it in first, but not second.
I switched BOV's with a known working one. I pulled the exhaust shield
and couldn't find or detect any broken studs. I checked the wires and
put in new plugs. I'm really stumped here. Here's the specs and mods on
the car.
2.5" BR Downpipe
2.5" Cat (an actual cat, not testpipe)
2.5" HKS Cat Back (I know, 2 3/8", but I cut the 2" flange off and put a
2.5 on it)
CFDF Clutch w/ 30k on it (Still grabbing beautifully)
BR/Hallman MBC @15psi
K&N in Cut Aircan
Lower Honeycomb removed from MAS.
Car's got about 110k miles on it. Although the bottom end was rebuilt at
about 80k and new head at about 75k (that was a VERY expensive 3 months).
Thanks for the bandwidth...
Chad Merritt
90 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:03:11 EST
Subject: no compression
Message-ID: <#6>
Hi all
I'm posting this for a friend who is in need of help.
He has a 90 tsi awd with 40 pounds of compression max in all four of the
cylinders
He checked the timing belt its ok, took the head off no damage to the pistons
or valves (visable anyway) put on a new head gasket the motor has 80k on it
and didnt act up before the no compression thing happend.
Anyone have any idea what could cause this kind of thing? if so please rtp
Thanks
Eric Cavalieri
96 tsi
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:13:06 -0500
From: [email protected] (Extreme Motorsports)
Subject: PMS/VPC controversy
Message-ID: <#7>
Hey all, I would like to add some insight about the PMS. I have to
make some clarifications about my PMS and the standing offer that I have for
ANYONE. Mike Cone was the inspiration for this letter as he stated that I am
definitely not running the same PMS that anyone else is, and he is almost
right. Actually I have the second PMS to come out which was a prototype and
I still run the same unit. As for why it is different, I have the AVAIALBLE
550/750cc injector chip set and a 30lb meter. That is it, really. As
mentioned by Frank Mowry my unit is for sale as it is my way of saying that
it is no better/different than the one in anyone elses car, or the ones on
our shelf.
Now that I have that out of the way here is why I like the PMS over
the VPC. First I had the exact opposite experience as I did have a VPC and
GCC of which I never got it to run right. No matter how far I twisted that
gain knob or where I turned the potentiometers on the GCC it responded to
the adjustments as though they were never changed. For over a year I played
with the combination and was never satisfied and thankfully I saw the ad in
Turbo Magazine from EFI for the PMS. At that point I had tried three
different VPC's and changed every sensor on the car hoping that I could find
the problem, and to no avail it eluded me like a winning set of lottery
numbers.
>From that point on I was hooked on the PMS and have never looked
back. Since it provides me with data that otherwise could not be obtained I
knew that it was a piece that could unleash some power and my runs as well
as many other attest to that. Yes the VPC is easier to use at first, but
once the PMS is dialed in it does work and does make a difference. No matter
which piece you run either the PMS, VPC or even a highly modified stock MAS,
YOU have to be comfortable with it. If you're like me you like information,
the more the better. In fact this year we will be running a video camera in
the car on every run as well so that we can see the runs, hear what is going
on, and see the data on the datalogger. I know that we will be going faster
this year as there is a lot of room for improvement in motor and chassis setup.
I hope that this clears the slate and as for being fast, it takes
not only a lot of time and effort but sometimes a kick in the pants by
someone to get you to come up with something a little different. I know that
this season will be even more interesting and will be full of surprises as
last year we did a lot of testing and found out what worked and what really
worked--- most of it is now to be found on our racers page and some of it is
still to come.
Sincerely,
Sean
Extreme Motorsports
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:36:17 -0600
From: Jeff <[email protected]>
Subject: News report of Jeff's accident -->Chicago Herald
Message-ID: <#8>
This may be of some interest to those that showed up to the Noble, Oklahoma
shootout in October. If you remember, a black Stealth driven by Jeff
Curtis won the AWD bracket. Unfortunately Jeff died in a car wreck a week
ago and here are the details I have, taken from the 3000GT/Stealth list.
>From: "Eric Lotter" <[email protected]>
>To: [email protected]
>Subject: News report of Jeff's accident -->Chicago Herald
>Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 07:12:08 PST
>
>I my quest for answers, I found the following news piece taken from the
>Chicago Daily Herald.
>
>The sudden death of a fellow list member leaves us to remember our own
>mortality.
>
>I have tied a purple ribbon around my rearview mirrror to remind me of
>that fact.
>
>
>Man killed in Naperville accident
>
>Naperville police were trying to piece together the details of an
>accident Tuesday that left an Aurora man dead.
>
>Jeffrey Curtis, 24, was injured when his car was struck by another near
>the intersection of 75th Street and Shepherd Drive, police said.
>
>He died shortly before 9:30 a.m. in the operating room at Edward
>Hospital in Naperville, according to the DuPage County Coroner's office.
>
>The office reported that Curtis' Chevrolet Cavalier was traveling east
>on 75th Street when it crossed the grass median and collided with
>another vehicle.
>
>Police refused to confirm that account.
>
>"Everything is under investigation," Sgt. David Hoffman said.
>
>Hoffman said only that three cars were involved in the accident that
>injured Curtis and two others.
>
>It was the first traffic fatality of the year in Naperville.
>
>John J. English, 57, of Darien, and Rodney Benston, 31, of Aurora, were
>identified as drivers of the other two vehicles. Both refused medical
>treatment at the scene.
>
>The accident shut down traffic in both directions on 75th Street from
>about 8:15 until after 10 a.m.
>
>After setting a record of 10 traffic fatalities in 1996, Naperville saw
>the number of deadly accidents within its borders drop to two in 1997.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:19:09 -0500
Message-ID: <#9>
>Ok, here's the scoop on the MAS screw to the best of my knowledge...by
backing
>this screw out, you allow more unmetered air to pass which results in a
leaner
>air/fuel ratio.
So why is it that when I pulled my MAS out the little plug was already
backed all the way out? (with the silicon still covering the head)
Could this be cause it is a Canadian car?(eh)
Steve
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:43:18 -0500
Subject: Re: starter kill/replacing ETACS-ECU to disable alarm [2G]
Message-ID: <#10>
>I think this information makes it pretty obvious. The starter cut relay is
>not for the alarm, its for the clutch position. On 95 MTs (what others I
>don't know) you can't start the car without holding down the clutch.
There is a switch for the clutch position and a separate relay controlled
by the alarm, both of which control the Starter Relay.
While working with James P Gonzales to figure out why his car still
starts with the alarm blaring, we figured it out. The Alarm Starter
Relay (which kills the Starter Relay, which kills the starter) gets
over-ridden by the Key Reminder Switch in the steering column. This
is the same switch that makes your ETACS-ECU buzz when the key is
left in the ignition in Acc and you open the driver's door. If
you insert your key (or something fools the KeyReminderSwitch), your
starter will function normally. While this may be a nice feature to
some who are afraid of getting stuck with a dead battery in the key
fob, its not. If you have the key to put in the ignition, you can
use the key to shut off the alarm in the door.
Many thieves will either pry your ignition cylinder open and turn it
with a tool (might fool the Key Reminder Switch) or have an ignition
cylinder WITH THEM, pull yours out, plug theirs (with a key in it) in,
and there goes your car.
Anybody who doesn't want the car to start while the alarm is going off
with the key reminder switch signaling theres a key in the ignition,
RTP and I'll tell you how to do it(95-96 cars only). You need to connect
two pins on a connector in the steering column, take you 10 min. Won't
affect the buzzer when you leave the key in the ign and open door.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 20:58:32 -0800
From: Derrick Chan <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: fastest 2g fwd?
Message-ID: <#11>
I think John Lee from Southern California is. He has a 95 Eclipse RS
body with a GS-T motor. He ran at Pomona in true Honda style(stripped
out interior) with slicks and ran a 12.06 at 118mph. His mods are at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~trapspeed/johnlee2.html
Derrick Chan
-So Cal DSM
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:34:42 -0700
From: Dan Henderson <[email protected]>
Subject: Really bad Gas Mileage
Message-ID: <#12>
I have been watching my mileage go down now for the past 3 months. When
I bought the car 6 months ago I was getting 250 miles a tank (12.5
gallons per fill = 20 mpg) Now I get about 200 miles to a tank, and I
stretch it out to 13 gallons per fillup. 15.38 mpg is really bad for a
4banger. So I'm wondering what the big problem could be? I changed the
plugs around 3 months ago, and I run 104+ or Fuel Injector cleaner every
other tank (which doesn't do much more for my mileage)
Any suggestions would be great. I also have a K&N Filter. The car will
be in Satan's hands on thursday for a 100k checkup... hopefully they
will fix this problem.
Thanks Todd,
Dan Henderson
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:39:31 EST
From: DanHurwitz <[email protected]>
Subject: My oil cooler was loose, too; MPG
Message-ID: <#13>
>I noticed the entire Oil Filter, and oil Cooler were LOOSE
I had the oil changed on my '91 GSX (90K miles) at the local service station.
I'm standing by the back of the car, idly watching the guy change the oil, and
also checking all the cool drivetrain hardware under the car -- all of a
sudden, I realize that the mechanic has been swapping sockets onto his socket
wrench for about five minutes. I ask him what's going on, he shows me the oil
cooler is practically spinning on its bolt. It does take a deep socket -- he
finally found one that fit and tightened the thing back up. How many other
people have seen this problem?
Speaking of cool under-car hardware, I'm selling a couple of GAB rear shocks
for the first-gen AWD. Only about 15K miles on 'em. E-mail me.
Best engine speed for gas mileage? Don't know if I posted this one before...
I remember one of the car mags had a test where some Honda engineers tried
to
get the maximum mileage out of a Honda Civic. They would race the car up to
speed (50mph?) at WOT, then coast down with the engine shut off, then bumpstart and repeat. Seems the engine WAS most efficient at wide-open.
(Obviously no extra-fuel-for-cooling going on there...). Anyway, if my memory
serves, they got 60-80 mpg using this method, and about 100mpg by caravaning
several cars together for lower drag. Of course... repeatedly zooming up to
50mph, then coasting down to 5 mph, is not a practical way to drive
anywhere... :^)
At the Washington, D.C. auto show, there was a display model of the
supercharged inline-4 from the Mercedes SLK, complete with the 4" high, 24"
wide intercooler. Looks nice! Fancy composite-plastic intake manifold.
Dan
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:03:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "James J. Heck" <[email protected]>
Subject: RE:AWD, fear, & slippery roads
Message-ID: <#14>
Dave,
What you are experiencing is most likely caused by a severely
misaligned rear end. I had similar experiences with my 90 GSX until I
had it aligned and new tires put on. The rear end was really
misaligned. I am pretty sure this was part of the problem.
So for those of you that have similer problems have your
alignment checked.
James
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:04:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Scott Guth <[email protected]>
Subject: What's up with my CV joints?
Message-ID: <#15>
The day before last, a CV joint seemed to go to hell all at once on me
(thump, thump, thump, etc...). My mechanic cannot find the part which I
believe he said was the outer joint on the driver's side front- the Chrysler
parts department told him there were only listings through 92'... absolutely
no parts from then on. They aren't the same, are they?
Other than this, I got my CFDF clutch from DSS (thanks guys!) today, and
will be having that put in ASAP. Baby will also get some BG Synchroshift,
some new CV boots, and some silicon in the Xfer case yoke as well. Guess I
should have the timing/ balance belts replaced too right away- it's only
money, right :&{
On a side note, I'll be driving back out to Colorado Springs around the 22nd
and staying there for a month (more if I find a job). Anyone out there want
to get together and hang out? I'll be staying over in Omaha on the evening
of the 22nd along the way if there are any members there. Nothing like a
good road trip- especially if you meet people on the way!
Later all,
Scott Guth
*1993 green/tan Talon TSI AWD 5 speed loaded
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:06:37 EST
From: DanHurwitz <[email protected]>
Subject: Irresponsible driving
Message-ID: <#16>
I couldn't let this one go:
>We're zooming through lunch traffic @ 130 mph...
>I'm chasing this guy across all 4 - 5 lanes!
This is beyond bad judgement. You were endangering the lives of innocent
people. If someone had unknowingly pulled out in front of your car, you could
not have avoided them. I would rather not read about this kind of
recklessness.
Dan
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:42:33 -0600
Subject: [2G] Front License Plate Holes
Message-ID: <#18>
>Is there an inexpensive way to cover the holes or at least make
>it look better, short of going to a body shop or getting a new front facia
Yes. I went to Autozone and got two black plugs and they look perfect.
Cost me all of about a buck or so.
Brian - 97 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:40:33 -0800
Subject: Walbro pump purchase info - less than a week left
Message-ID: <#19>
Sorry for the repost, but I need to set a cutoff date for replies of NEXT
MONDAY, and every post I make, I get more people, so I need to make sure
everyone sees this...
OK, I have gotten both 1G and 2G Walbro kits, and they are slightly
different. They use similar pumps, but the accessories are different.
SO, if you want a Walbro pump for $103 shipped (cont. US, a little more
elsewhere), and HAVEN'T Emailed me, please do so BY MONDAY, 1/19/98. I
want to put an order together next week, so I can get the pumps to people
by the end of Jan or so. I WILL need prepayment in order to order a pump
for you, I can't afford to make this order without payment ready.
The kits make either install a bolt-in now - I HAVE a 1G VFAQ up for the 1G
pump kit now, check it out at http://www.vfaq.com ...
Several people have asked for more info on the Walbro pumps. The kits come
with EVERYTHING needed for install except the bottom spacer on the pump
outlet, which you get off of the stock pump (1G kits also do not have the
crimp connector needed, see below).
1G AWD - not QUITE a direct bolt-in - the electrical plug
used to attach the pump needs to be spliced onto the
12V wire on the pump assembly. This can be done with
a crimp connector, or soldered (preferred).
1G FWD - same as 1G AWD, as far as I know - I don't have a 1G
FWD to test it on.
2G AWD - DIRECT bolt-in, as the 2G stock pump uses the same
plug as the Walbro pump
2G FWD - same as 2G AWD
Flow - the Walbro pump outflows the ND pump by a wide margin.
I have a flow chart for the Wlabro pumps vs the stock pump,
it is linked to off of all of the Walbro pump VFAQs. The
1G kit uses the GSS315, the 2G kit uses the GSS317.
Noise - these pumps ARE louder than stock. The ND pump is
was NO louder than stock, you could barely hear it at all
car to car.
Hope this answers most of the questions people have.
Tom Stangl
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:42:24 -0600
From: Mark Mischler <[email protected]>
Subject: Bondurant
Message-ID: <#20>
Hi all,
I've mostly been a lurker on this list for a little over 3 years so I
figured I'd contribute my two cents worth - aren't you all glad. :-)
I'll even warn you that it's a bit long and not too TEL-specific, but
I'm hoping that we all own our cars as much for the love of driving as
for the love of TELs.
The first week in December, a friend of mine and I flew down (in a
plane, not our cars) to Phoenix, AZ. to take a class from the Bob
Bondurant School of High Performance Driving, see
http://www.bondurant.com for more info. If you can find the
time/money I strongly recommend anyone and everyone to take a driving
class - the only experience I've had is with them, so they're the only
ones I can recommend. But unless other schools are really bad - or
you're a really good driver - I think that everyone can benefit. To
those of us who love driving, it can make us better. To those who are
a little more afraid of driving, if can make them a little more
confortable (I hope). I think a driving school can really show
everyone how much further a car's limits are than what they expect.
We took their 3-Day High Performance Driving Class which was as
"practical" a class as we could talk ourselves into. The 1-Day
Highway survival Training class definitely seemed too short, but we
felt that the 4-Day Grand Prix Road Racing class would be out of our
league and that we wouldn't be able to apply what we learned to
"everyday" driving. OK, so we suffered from temporary insanity and
fiscal responsibility! We "still" had the time of our lives, at least
until we go back (hopefully next year), this time for the class we
should have taken, their 4-day Grand Prix class.
Before I rant on too much, let me offer the following disclaimer to
set some of you at ease: Other than having been a student, I have no
affiliation with the school or anyone working there, nor am I getting
any kind of compensation for what will surely appear to be an
advertisement for their school.
They have a fantastic facility and equipment - personally I think that
Mitsu should sponsor them as opposed to Ford, but that's just my bias.
Their facility features a 1.6 mile road course specifically designed
by Bob Bondurant which, on the third day, we got to 'play' on; as well
as a 3.5 acre asphalt pad which we used, most of the time, on the
first two days to learn the basics.
My friend and I both learned more than I can put down in any email
message(s), though if I was pressed to summarize the class down to a
single concept, I'd have to say that driving is all about weight
transfer. Duh, some of you might say, but how many of us think about
that before we turn the wheel or apply the brakes? - Granted, some of
us have the AWD advantage and don't need to think about it quite as
much it seems, but it should still come to mind nonetheless.
Other than driving the road course (which I'll get to not so shortly)
the most intriguing exercises we did were in their "Skid Cars". These
cars, both Mustangs and Taurus's, are equipped with an extra
undercarriage which extends out past the corners of the car by a
couple of feet. At the extremities of this undercarriage they have
put what I can only call "dolly" wheels (you know, ones that freely
pivot 360' - like on the front of a shopping cart (though bigger, with
air-filled tires in this case!). These dolly wheels can be raised and
lowered from inside the car using hydraulics. By taking some of the
weight off the car's tires, they can induce oversteer or understeer at
low speeds (?20-30 mph? - we kept the automatic transmissions in first
gear.)
This can simulate driving on ice, snow, dirt, or gravel, (depending on
how much traction the instructor decides to give you) except that if
you get into trouble they have the option to put the weight back on
the real wheels - not as easy if you're really sliding on ice. I was
dreaming about taking the ice-driving school in Steamboat CO, but
after this I've changed my mind - for now. We used the exercises in
the skid-cars to learn to steer with the brake and throttle (moving
the steering wheel only a little) as well as how to recover from a
skid - steering with the throttle is a blast, though expensive on the
tires! BTW: You can bring your own car, but they warned me that I'd
most likely go through at lease one set of tires during the 3-day
course.
On the asphalt pad in the (non skid-car) Mustangs, we practiced the
slalom, accident avoidance, and they even set up an autocross to show
us that sometimes speed is secondary to smoothness.
All of their cars are Fords - a major sponsor. Most of the students
in our class were driving Mustang GTs, while the instructor cars were
Taurus's. The school also has F-150 trucks, which a couple of people
were using in our class, as well as Mustang Cobras and Formula Fords
for the more advanced classes. While I'm not rushing out to buy a
Mustang (I haven't gone that insane), I do have more respect for them
now than I did before. I didn't think that they could handle as well
as they did. Granted the school's cars aren't completely stock they've added safety equipment as well as a different suspension - I
still thought that they would fish-tail more than they did. Even the
Taurus's handled well, better than I thought even my car could. I
don't even want to comment on the full-size Ford van that they take
you out in on the first day! What an insane ride! But it showed us
that even something as "clumsy" as a full-size van can go fast around
corners when you know what you're doing.
I was also amazed at the engines. I keep hearing that our engines are
'bulletproof' but we had those Ford engines up at the redline way
longer than I would have felt comfortable in may car many times during
the 3 days. Personally, I don't keep my car at the red-line for more
than 10ths of a second at a time, just while accelerating hard right
before $h!tfing, but on the track we sometimes had them up near
redline for seconds at a time because there just wasn't enough track
to make it worth while shifting up to 3rd and back down to 2nd before
the next corner. We also kept shifing out of the equation - keeping
the MT cars in second - while learing the line. I've heard about the
rev-limiter, but I've never had the balls to risk my engine to see if
it was there on my car. I got that experience both in the instructor
cars and ours.
On the third day we all got to go out on the main track and put
together all that we'd learned. The track is amazing! It combines
fast and slow corners, increasing, constant, and decreasing radius
turns, turns that are flat, and banked (both positive and negative),
plus a front straight that you can really fly through.
The only problem I had - other than inexperience - was shifting into
third. Some times it would slide in, other times I had to fight it.
I asked the instructor and he told me to just wait until the car was
unloaded (not leaning in a corner). During the afternoon, at speed, I
was having problems shifting into third between turns 14 and 15, as we
were instructed to do. (I'm sure their web has a track layout on it for those w/o web access - sorry, I don't think an ASCII map would do
it justice.) Turn 14 is a relatively fast left turn, though we do
downshift to 2nd before the corner, it is also banked 'the wrong way'.
Turn 15 is a very short, fast right turn, though it too is banked
wrong. There is not much of a straight between the turns, so the car
is really off-balance and flexing. I should have known better, but I
tried to shift into 3rd, as we were instructed to, in order to be able
to make the best use of the front straight.
I shifted into 1st! At ~60 mph - whatever redline is in 2nd in the
GTs. - Hi Todd! (I believe that this is pretty close to the place on
this very track where he mis-shifted! Though we haven't compared
notes.)
[Yes, he is talking about the same place! Was it right before the
pedestrian bridge towards the end of that straight? -talon mgr]
In complete slow motion, the rear end locked up (at least I swear I
heard the tires squeal, I spun 180' and into a tire-wall and the
concrete retaining wall behind it. The shop estimated $4200 in damage
to the car (of which I owe their $1000 deductible - so it's not as bad
for me as it was for Todd.) Somehow, don't ask me, I must have
clutched back in because not only was the engine running, but they
were able to drive the car off the track - so not even the
transmission got shattered. So scratch one Mustang :) (at least for a
while) They've got 140 more so they just told me to "pick a number
and hop in."
Even with my "little" mishap, I recommend anyone and everyone to take
a driving class! Any class.
On a side-note, some of you have complained about them (V8's)
squealing the tires on down-shifts - granted this is a sign that
they're not downshifting correctly - but quite frankly I don't think
that I could get my GSX to squeel its tires on a downshift no matter
how badly misalligned the rpms were. My engine just isn't strong
enough to break the tires loose on acceleration, much less on a
downshift. Bottom line: I don't think they're showing off, I think
they just are not downshifting correctly. My friend's Cobra is really
bad about it if you don't match the rpms quite right.
I haven't been real good at relating what we learned to TELs in this
email. About the only thing I can say is - I hate understeer. Our
cars being FWD or AWD really tend to understeer way faster than
oversteer. The first Mustang I drove (the one I crashed) was really
setup well, hardly any oversteer. The second was noticably different.
I could get it to oversteer into the apex much more easily - something
that I'd been trying to do in the first can unsuccessfully. In my
GSX, I've experienced oversteen only a couple of times, and then it's
a lot easier to control and recover from than a RWD. Though oversteer
can be fun! Definitely more so than understeer.
I asked our instructor how things might be different in an AWD, and he
kept saying that the principles are the same, it's just that we have a
tremendous advantage with AWD. As he put it, if I remember correctly,
'It can make a bad driver good and a good driver better' because it's
so much more forgiving.
So now I'm saving for not only a house (someday), money to go back for
their 4-day Grand Prix Road Racing class, but also to get some mods
for my car. I want to get it lowered slightly and get MORE POWER.
The friend I went down there with owns a new '97 Mustang Cobra and
right now he definitely pulls away from me during and after second no contest. I still think I can take him on any track with at least
one corner, but that's just my ego talking.
I also need to find out how to participate in the local autocrosses.
What a blast!
Mark Mischler
'95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 00:59:29 -0600
Subject: 2G Fog Light Mod
Message-ID: <#21>
Dont know if everyone knows about this, but I did this mod to my fog
lights and it works great!
http://mason.gmu.edu/~bbauer/fog-park.html
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:58:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Stock boost gauge as a/f
Message-ID: <#22>
>I know I've seen people talk about setting up the stock boost gauge as
>an a/f gauge by attaching it to the O2 sensor, but I couldn't find
>anything in the archives...
RobertRobertRobert - http://www.tmo.com , then "Our Products & Services"
Tom Stangl
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 02:05:13 -0500
Subject: [1G] radio problem
Message-ID: <#23>
I took my 1g Stock Radio (with EQ) with the same problem to a fix it shop.
It cost me $100 to have them replace the entire face (all the buttons). I
dont know if they had to replace the entire face, or just part of it... but
it works fine now. Sorry to be so vauge... but im dont know much about
electronics... All I know is that it is fixable for a price. BTW at one
time I had 5 different people with the same problem. Apparently the radio
is not made very well.
Chad Gray
IRC: Cable
'91 Talon Tsi FWD
'91 Talon Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:17:16 -0800
From: "Scott Croughwell" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Turbo header
Message-ID: <#24>
Hi all,
About 18 months ago (right before good ol' Hank smashed his baby) I
purchased a turbo header for my '96 GS-T. I never installed it, but it
flow-benched "properly" (ie. correct primary length and diameter) And it
had gussets in all the right places to prevent cracks.
Anyway, I paid $400 for it but ended up turning around and selling it to
BUCKLEY SAWYER for $350. (Which I haven't seen one red cent of...)
Not much help, but something at least!
TTFN,
Scott
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 02:24:59 EST
Subject: Mitsubishi SST
Message-ID: <#25>
Is a close cousin of the 3rd Generation. Cosmetically speaking that is.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 23:35:22 -0800
From: Ray Johns <[email protected]>
Subject: 1997 GSX - ** FOR SALE **
Message-ID: <#26>
I have the following GSX for sale if anyone is in the market. Asking $26,500
About 7500 miles, brand new condition and very, very fast. It's Barcelona Red
Pearl with tan leather - fully loaded. Over $6000 in upgrades (only the best
parts, professional quality installation all around). Turns heads... you won't
find a nicer GSX around. I'll put up pictures shortly. Sounds sweet! :)
Can arrange shipment to anywhere in USA. If you are interested, contact me,
serious only, please.
Thanks!
Ray Johns
97 GSX
more info at http://www.comsystem.com/gsx
CURRENT SETUP (in approximate order of installation w/ prices):
1997 GSX - B04 package - loaded/leather
$25,000.00
S&B air filter (D.I.S. setup)
$ 129.00
K&N valve cover breather filter
$ 10.00
2.25" SS upper intercooler pipe &
$ 400.00
1st Gen BOV
Bosh platinum plugs
$ 36.00
Magnacore red 8.5 mm wires
$ 70.00
Air Snorkel removed from intake tube
$ free!
Bottom honey comb removed from MAS
$ free!
VDO 0-30 boost gauge
$ 45.00
Gauge installation kit
$ 10.00
Upgraded Fuel pump
$ 199.00
Ported/clipped/balanced 16G turbo
$ 1150.00
Turbo installation gaskets
$ 36.00
Ported 2nd Gen exhaust manifold
$ 300.00 *
Ported O2 housing
$ 200.00 *
( * not including core refund )
Apex-I Front mount intercooler
$ 1400.00
Manual Boost Controller set to 18 psi
$ 100.00
Extreme SS exhaust system (see below)
3 inch down pipe
$ 350.00
3 inch high flow cat
$ 200.00
3 inch 11 inch resenator
$ 125.00
3 inch 15 inch resenator
$ 125.00
3 inch free flow cat back /w SS muffler
$ 500.00
7 EZ-seal band clamps
$ 70.00
Front Strut bar
Rear Strut bar
$ 129.00
$ 159.00
Misc installation hardware
Parts waiting to be installed:
Cyberdyne A/F gauge
Front cross drilled rotors
Front pads
Rear pads
Different inch exhaust tip
Labor - by yours truely :-)
TOTAL COST FOR CAR
TOTAL COST FOR UPGRADES
$ ~ 100.00
$
$
$ 45.00
$ 270.00
55.00
45.00
$ 55.00
$ free!
$31,313.00
$ 6,313.00
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:54:02 -0600
Subject: AWD traction problems and tires
Message-ID: <#27>
>I think that because the front tire were good and the back tires were shot
>there was some sort of slippage condition that confused the AWD system. I
>do still think it was something to do with the AWD and not just worn tires.
You're absolutely right. The center differential is perfectly
happy to deliver all the power to either the front or rear
wheels, to whichever end loses traction. The center viscous
coupling will start locking up if it sees too much of this.
Otherwise, its free to happen. So if the front has good tires
and traction, the rears will spin. This has to occur if the
viscous coupling is to sense the difference in rotational speed
between the two output shafts.
On a similar icy note: I slide my car into a curb the other
day and now it wants to follow all the irregularities in the
road. My guess is toe. I'll have to check the garage tomorrow
for enough lumber to make a gage.
Barney
the guy so cheap he does his own alignment work
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 00:51:44 -0800
From: John Coggi <[email protected]>
Subject: Clutch record
Message-ID: <#28>
>I've got 132K+ miles on the ORIGINAL clutch in my 90 GSX, and was
>wondering if it's some kind of record (I bought the car new).
>
>Can anyone out there top that?
Yessir. I put on 156,000 miles on my 90 GS-T before selling it, all with
the original clutch. OK, so it wasn't AWD, but what the heck.
John
97 GS-T
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Wed, 14 Jan 1998 03:01:23 -0600
"Tami Mertz" <[email protected]>
Subject: ignition fuse/relay problems
Message-ID: <#29>
I have been experiencing some intermittent troubles with my 91 laser's
ignition relay fuse that is connected to the positive battery cable. Every
so often I will start my car and it will run for around 3-5 seconds and
this fuse will blow. They are like $3.50 a piece and it seems like no auto
store in town carries an abundance of them. I had a dealer take a look at
it the first time that it happened because I was 200 miles from home. They
replaced the fuse and my car ran fine. Five days later same problem happens
again. I replace the fuse and it blows. I push the car in the garage and
begin to look around, reducing the problem to any circuit past the battery
I am totally lost. I then try another fuse and the car starts and runs
fine. How can I determine the problem when it is so intermittent? Has
anyone else had this happen? Any info at all would be an extreme blessing.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 01:17:23 PST
Subject: Pronto Spyder, high DSM's
Message-ID: <#30>
By the way this is my first so bear with.
I saw the Plymouth Pronto Spyder in Car & Driver (2/98) and here are the stats
for anyone who might be interested:
Plymouth Pronto Spyder
$$25,000
supercharged, intercooled DOHC 4-in-line, iron block, aluminum head. Chrysler
SBEC III engine-control system with port fuel injection.
2429 cc's
225bhp @ 6500
5 speed
2700 lbs
0-60 5.3
0-100 12.8
1320 13.8 @ 100 (speed limited?)
One other thing, I live in the high altitude area of NM (Albuquerque), and was
wondering a few things. First, my idle vaccuum is at around 14 to 15 mmHG,
my
compression was 115,110,120,130 (not to good). Now are these low numbers
caused by the fact that I am at 6000-7000 ft., or do I have a serious problem.
As far as I can tell there aren't any leaks. Second, I have less air up here
does anybody know what kind of boost I should run. Right now I am at 15-18
psi
with all the precautions, however I don't want to out boost the turbo, and I
have never had fuel cut :).
Thanks,
Steve.
90 gst.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 04:36:02 EST
Subject: Measuring torque
Message-ID: <#31>
Are the torque ratings on engines measured under steady state conditions? I
mean, if you do a 2nd gear run from 1krpm to 7krpm, there's no way the max
g's
are at 3k- you haven't even gotten full boost yet, right?
Tom Spargo
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:37:37 -0500
Subject: RE: 1g radio problem
Message-ID: <#32>
The problem with FM reception is most likely antenna related. That would
explain AM working properly and the tape deck working. First check the
connector in the rear right under the antenna mast. Mine was loose (not
lose) from pulling on the wiring harness for the fuel pump. You can reach it
from the pull off panel on the drivers side rear. If this isn't the problem
check the front connector. Also check the ground. If reception is still
messed up, go to an auto parts store with a good return policy, buy any
antenna with a standard connector and hook it up. If this doesn't work, the
deck is the problem. Return the antenna. If it does, find another antenna.
See, I can post useful info!
Frank Mowry
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 04:48:24 PST
Subject: MAS screw on 2G's?
Message-ID: <#33>
I have been reading all this discussion about whether or not to back out
the MAS screw...I noticed it was all about 1G's? Do 2G's also have this
option? If so, can anyone tell me how?
Oh, also, I want to hook up some type of voltmeter to check my A/F
ratio...can someone tell me a cheap and easy (but reliable) way to do
this? Sounds like a fun project!
Kevin
1995 Talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:34:56 -0500
From: Jim Schuster <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Racing insane people
Message-ID: <#34>
Warren:
I would ask that you consider taking your 100+ mph racing to the track.
Believe you'll enjoy the road course. I shudder to think how close you
were to serious injury. I often like to pull around some slow moving
car on the freeway by punching it in 5th and glancing in my mirrors for
a car in the next lane. If somebody's 10 car lengths back, no problem.
That is, if they are not going over a hundred. Remember, Cars in lanes
are not cones, but are piloted by "stupid" drivers who will make stupid
decisions like pulling right in front of a car going 50 mph faster. If
you are not concerned about your safety then question how much longer
your luck will hold out. Probably every car you shot past, chasing that
insane guy, the driver called the cops on their cell phone. Really, try
the racing on a road course. You'll never go back to street racing
insane people.
Jim Schuster
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:45:35 -0500
Subject: Security and insurance...
Message-ID: <#35>
>BTW, my CodeAlarm has starter cut, but I still want the "pedal sequence"
>TMO mod for added security. I Wonder if I can get an extra discount off my
>insurance premium for it.
No question about it. I am! My company wants to see a starter
kill rather than just an alarm. I said I have one.
Well I will have one, since the ECU is now on it's way to Todd.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:48:31 -0500
Subject: Diesel Tech (somewhat off topic)
Message-ID: <#36>
>Another cool thing I noticed was a startup feature. Before you start
>it you have to turn the key to "on" and wait a few seconds till a
>light goes off. I had always wondered why, and after seeing that
>monster turbo I got to thinking it was to circulate some oil in the
>turbo before startup. Just a guess.
Nice guess - but nope.
That's the glow plug light you're seeing.
Keep in mind that diesel engines have no spark plugs. Instead, they use
the heat generated by very high compression ratios (23:1 or higher) to
ignite the fuel charge, which is injected directly into the combustion
chamber just before TDC.
However, a cold engine can absorb enough heat to prevent the air
temperature from getting high enough to allow ignition, and thus prevent
starting - so most diesels use some sort of combustion chamber heater
(normally a glow plug) to get the chamber temp up high enough so that
the motor will start.
Ever notice that light stays on longer on a cold day...?
>P.S. I just thought of something. Don't larger turbos usually have
>bad lag? This diesel truck redlines at about 3200 rpm. Seems like
>you'd never get out of the lag.
Well, "lag" is the delay between the application of throttle and the
development of power. Given that diesels aren't exactly the most
responsive motors to begin with, lag really isn't as much of a problem
on a turbodiesel - the engine spins up at more-or-less the same speed as
the turbo.
Turbos and diesels are made for each other. Almost every big rig on the
road is turbocharged (listen for the whine) as are most high-perf
military applications. The standard engine used in most midsized APCs
and LAVs is the Detroit Diesel 6V53T - a V6, 5.3l turbo-and-supercharged
2 stroke diesel (thus the name)
DG
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:54:30 -0600
From: "Kevin Sommer" <[email protected]>
Subject: Electronics shutting down
Message-ID: <#37>
This is kind of old, but, to the person with the radar detector shutting off
on you - you probably have a charging problem. Thats why your battery is
dead. Electronics shut down due to low voltage. That detector doesn't draw
enough current to give problems to a 500 someodd Amp battery. Most
alternators put out 14.8 Volts at high revs and a little less on low revs. If
you aren't sensing the voltage drop between 12 and 15 you will not charge the
battery. I bet you have less than 13 Volts to the ignition.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:56:20 -0500
From: "Steve Calbert" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: plastic body cars
Message-ID: <#38>
>They were pointing out features like significant weight
>loss while maintaining structural integrity and the elimination of paint
>costs, since they could use colored plastic
>
This is not new, remember the Fiero. All plastic body panels.
Regards,
Steve
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:06:00 -0600
Subject: Clutch Contest
Message-ID: <#39>
>wondering if it's some kind of record (I bought the car new
>Can anyone out there top that?
91 TSI AWD with 139K and the clutch "Just keeps going, and going, and..."
I keep waiting for the inevitable ticket for littering when it finally goes big.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:01:21 -0500
From: "Steve Calbert" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: My 1st war story
Message-ID: <#40>
>Before you start it you have to
>turn the key to "on" and wait a few seconds till a light goes off. I had
>always wondered why
The reason for it is because it's a diesel. The glow plugs need to warm
up.
>I just thought of something. Don't larger turbos usually have bad
>lag?
It has to more with the engine displacement vs. the turbo size. That
Cummins engine moves quite a bit of air even at 1k.
Regards,
Steve Calbert
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:11:34 -0600
Subject: Re: starter kill/replacing ETACS-ECU to disable alarm [2G]
Message-ID: <#41>
TurboMike and I were trading e-mail messages on the topic of the
mysterious starter cutoff on the 2G stock alarm. As a response to
the poster who mentioned the clutch switch and cutoff being wired in
parallel:
>The circuit diagram confused me at first also. They ARE in parallel
>but the Starter Relay doesn't turn ON the circuit when it gets power,
>it turnst OFF. Opposite of most relays. If the clutch is not in, or
>if the alarm triggers the Alarm Starter Relay, either one will power
>the Starter Relay which will cut power to the starter.
Studying the schematics further, Mike figured out why our cars can
start even with the alarm going off:
>I found it. I was just looking up the pins on the Alarm Starter
>Relay to tell you which ones you could test, and I see whats
>happening. The Alarm Starter Relay goes through the Key Reminder
>Switch in the steering column. When you trigger the Key Reminder
>Switch the Alarm Starter Relay goes dead! Ah-hah! So you can
>override the alarm's starter kill with a key in the ignition.
>
>That may stop the thief who's pulling the ignition wires from below
>the kick panel, but it wont stop someone jumping the starter motor
>under the hood OR someone who's cracked your ignition cylinder OR
>anyone who has a fake ignition cylinder. So theres the answer!
So there we have it, the solution to the mysterious and elusive starter
cut off. It does exist, but is overridden by a key in the ignition.
Makes you wonder why they couldn't have used the key reminder switch as
a way to also turn off the blaring horns/flashing lights, since they
are more than happy to let you drive the car away...
At any rate, as Mike mentions, it can be defeated by a good thief, but
then what alarm system can't be?
Many thanks to TurboMike for dilligently getting an answer to us all!
Jim '96 AWD Talon
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 08:16:17 -0600
Subject: Re: engine cut out
Message-ID: <#42>
What is the anti-theft card you speak of? Is that a Mitsubishi thing
only? My Talon doesn't have that (to my knowledge at least).
Jim '96 AWD Talon
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:19:36 -0500
Subject: Market for 'Stealth Cat'
Message-ID: <#43>
Based on the numerous replies I have gotten on my post about wishing for a
'stealth cat', I think there is a serious market for such a device. No one
who replied (yet anyway) has actually done it, but several have expressed
interest in purchasing one if someone decides to make them...
So, I officially place the request with the various DSM performance parts
manufacturers on the list (Dave B, Extreme, Etc.) to produce the 'Stealth
Cat'. For offroad use only, of course. ;-)
[Hooboy, there is no way in *HELL* it would be legal to sell such a thing.
An offroad-only cat would never need to look stealthy. -talon mgr]
It could simply be a 'stock' testpipe with a useless hollow cat body tack
welded around it in the appropriate place. I will be the first one in line
for a 2.5" that will bolt back into my stock exhaust on my FWD. I suppose it
would not be _that_ hard for me to buy a normal test pipe and cut up my old
cat, and weld it onto the tetpipe, but I don't have welding equipment, or a
grinder, etc...
[Some municipalities where the police have nothing better to do actually
have IR sensors to detect a real cat. A real cat gets extremely hot,
but a testpipe will remain relatively cool. There is no way to fool
such a system, without sacraficing the intent of a test pipe in the
first place. You then get a ticket from officer Friendly. This has
actually happened at street-racing places here in SoCal. -talon mgr]
I think there is a serious market for this in states (like NY) that have
visual emissions inspections, but no tailpipe test (yet...).
As an aside, will a standard testpipe (Dave's or Extreme or whoever) bolt up
to the stock exhaust? Or do I need a cat-back at the same time? I would
probably keep the stock exh for awhile if I could put a TP in without
getting nailed my the emissions inspection. From what I understand that cat
is a _bigtime_ restriction, and even the piddley stock exhaust will flow
_much_ better without it.
Replies?
Jeff
91 TSi
Nothing at all broke this week. Except my 55 gallon fish tank :(
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:23:01 -0500
Subject: (cbs) RE: Cummins Turbo Diesel
Message-ID: <#44>
>Another cool thing I noticed was a startup feature. Before you start it
>you have to turn the key to "on" and wait a few seconds till a light
>goes off.
My company used to have an old diesel pick-up that had this feature. The
light was an indicator for the glow plugs, which needed to warm up before
the engine could be started. If I recall correctly, the engine would not
start until that light went off. BTW, that truck (83 Chevy) was what I
used to learn how to drive a 5-speed. Incidently, I also somehow managed
to destroy the engine on that truck one day, prompting them to convert it
to a gasoline powered engine with an automatic tranny.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:30:55 -0500
From: Jim Farrington <[email protected]>
Subject: [1GT] Stumbling at 7+ boost
Message-ID: <#45>
[RTP?]
I've a strange thing happening of late: when I give my 90 Tsi more than 7
lbs boost (stock gauge, FWIW), the engine seems to stumble or shudder. It
doesn't do it all of the time, just most of the time, especially when
it--the car--is warm. It is especially noticeable when in a gear, say 5th
on the highway, and then pressing the accelerator. Occasionally in neutral
I'll feel what seems to be a shudder, but not for long. The plugs and
wires only have 15K or so, and if it were the fuel filter I would think it
would show up other than at higher boost. A leaky hose somewhere? Anyone
have this happen to them? (I found two people in the archives that seemed
to describe something similar, but one said it wasn't and the other
apparently has a different email address now.) Any help appreciated.
Jim
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:39:16 -0500
Subject: Re: TALON'S DEMISE
Message-ID: <#46>
>Fellow DSMer's, D-Day for the Eagle Talon is the 26th of January. That is when
>we put the last one on the manufacturing line. All antenna's should be at
>half-mast. ( if it were possible )
Ok, I know it's silly, but...
It's too bad that more of us don't live in the vicinity of the factory. We
could borrow a bunch of those funeral signs that go into your hood, and
circle the factory for a few hours.
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:47:36 -0500
Subject: Talon commercial
Message-ID: <#47>
>Anyone see the Sears tire commercial on Sunday?
Yeah... and anyone who gets Toronto TV stations, will also notice an ad that
one of the big hospital foundations in Toronto is running. It's an ad for
their big yearly lottery, to raise funds for the Toronto hospitals. They're
giving away all kinds of things... including their front centre-piece in the
ad... A 97/98 Eagle Talon. :)
It's right there, in the middle of the screen, with a few lesser cars,
pictured much smaller, around it. :)
Too little, too late, to be sure... but it's always nice to see the
exposure.
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 07:18:20 PST
From: "Vineet Singh" <[email protected]>
Subject: Top this (clutch)
Message-ID: <#48>
>wondering if it's some kind of record
Hi all,
I USED to have a 1990 AWD talon M/t, and then sold it to one of my best
friends... It had some brake problems, 1-2 crunch, and one little
accident (didn't have to replace much... just a corner lamp).
I bought a rebuilt trans for it, with a 96gsx clutch (he rarely races,
and I got a good deal on it...) and sold it all to him with 135k on it.
He has had it now and has 140k on it (he learned stick on this car mind
you!) and it STILL DOES NOT SLIP AT ALL! however, since the "new"
parts ARE laying around, and the cold isn't helping the now 12-34
crunch, we will be replacing it all. I'll take a close up of the ODO and
the clutch and post it somewhere :)
BTW: This IS the original clutch, have all records and no trannie work
(warr or otherwise) was done to it... and the trans bolts look as if
they have never been touched. Plus the original owner said it is. So
Ashok Babu, if your out there... :P :) ttyalll8r!
Vineet Singh
AKA a280z
91 Eagle Talon AWD, 74-78 260-280z's
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:29:00 -0500
Subject: (1G,T,AWD) Speedometer Calibration for AWD? and other Q.
Message-ID: <#49>
Is there any way to get a speedometer calibration done on a 1992 Talon
AWD? All of the shops I have talked to can do FWD and RWD cars only. Do
they make a system for calibrating AWD? I assume the system would have 2
sets of rollers (adjustable). My dealer in VA said that it is not
feasible to disengage the AWD on my Talon for testing on equipment
designed for FWD/RWD. I have an upcoming reckless driving court case for
driving a little too fast (I was getting away from an annoying tailgater
and punched it, which was dumb on my part) and my lawyer wants a
calibration. Any help would be appreciated.
While I am at it, my car is surging from ~900 RPM to ~1500 RPM when in
idle. Is this a symptom of a vac leak or does it just need an idle
adjustment. I assume that if it bottoms at 900 that this is a correct
idle RPM and the car isn't revving to keep from stalling.
Tom B.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:39:07 -0600
From: Lee Glenn <[email protected]>
Subject: re: Clutch longevity [1G, T]
Message-ID: <#50>
Well, I've got 162K+ on my '90 Laser's original clutch. It's funny, too, because
at
around 55K I was getting an oil change at a local Goodyear dealer. He tells me
that
my clutch was incredibly worn and could "go" at any moment and would I like
him to
replace it for me? I declined. BTW, I'm on my second turbo.
Later,
Lee
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 14 Jan 1998 8:01:50 -0800
Subject: Stock clutch and turbo reliability
Message-ID: <#51>
Uh, not quite but kinda close. I have 110K on my original '90 Tsi
AWD (bought mine new too) stock clutch and turbo. The clutch
is still strong and I am not having any problems with it. Bottom
line here Bill: 1990 was the best year bar none. Not only is it
extremely reliable, but most of you out there are jealous of our
James Bond pop-up headlights.
:-)
Ken
90 Tsi AWD
Nothing has ever broke!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:32:14 -0600 (CST)
Subject: fastest 2G FWD
Message-ID: <#52>
Hey Quick Nick,
>What times are the fastest
>2g FWD's running
I'm not sure but with my stock T25, I've run
14.4 @ 98.8 mph.
With a 16G, a 2G FWD should run mid- to low- 13s.
20G I have no idea.
Hope this helps,
Warren
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 10:57:42 -0600
Subject: Re: 'Stealth' cat
Message-ID: <#53>
>I'm not *really* asking this, but suppose someone took a stock cat
>converter and punched it out, but to avoid that nasty 'farting' noise, they
>ran a nice lenght of pipe through it?
Can you pass emissions testing without a cat with our cars? How much does
an aftermarket cat block flow as compared to a test pipe? I hope with
all this talk lately of removing converters that our nice little club here
doesn't start to be known as a bunch of hooligans running around with
illegal cars starting drag races with every car that comes alongside at a
stoplight.
What's the fine if you are caught driving without a cat on your car?
Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
'90 Eclipse GS-2.0
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:12:54 -0500
Subject: Re: pics on the HTML Digest/Timing Belt disaster.
Message-ID: <#54>
This is a cool idea todd, the images linking from a web page, then we
can show people a little better what we are talking about sometimes.
>how much work do the heads usually need
>when the valves get bent? How about the pistons?
I don't know about the head, but when my timing belt snapped all 4
pistons were scored and #1 literally had a hole in it. My mechanic also
held up a valve and said, this is supposed to have a long stem attached
to it...
Ernie
Who blows 'em up good!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:14:35 -0800
Subject: Turbo Diesels and me
Message-ID: <#55>
Thanks to everyone who promptly informed me that the reason you have to
wait to start a diesel is to let the glow plugs heat up. I had always
thought that it was because something had to warm up. The only reason I
had the thought about it pre-oiling the turbo was, because on more than one
instance forgot to wait for anything to warm up. I just hopped in and
cranked 'er up and the truck started just fine. Let's hope nothing broke,
because my grandparents are driving to Mexico tomorrow with a huge camper
in tow. Once again thanks to everyone who took it upon themselves to make
me feel stupid (just kidding). I wish I would get that many responses when
I have a problem. Later all.
Jason Spring
'94 Eclipse GS waiting to trade in for a brand new diesel
truck...yeah right.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:25:59 -0500
Subject: PS leaks
Message-ID: <#56>
This one if for the archives:
[1G] Power steering, lines, leak, seal
I replied to Tome with an experience I had when he posted a few days ago
that his power steering rack had sprung a leak. I thought the same of mine,
and a couple months ago was crawling around under the car when I noticed a
little puddle of PS fluid. Hmmm. I looked up and, sure enough the steel
lines that run across the back of the rack were leaking. Seems like they are
made of mild steel and rust pretty easily. Apparently much easier than brake
lines. The rack itself was fine.
There are two lines, in addition to the two hoses that come from the pump.
Both are all steel, and come out of the rack and go back in. One goes from
the driver's side of the rack to the middle of the rack, the other goes from
the passenger side back. They are NOT flare fittings, they are o-ring type,
so don't even think about making your own. On my car the one on the
passenger side sprung a leak near where it goes into the rack. On Tome's
they leaked where the lines pass through the rubber block that cushions
them.
This is a reccuring theme on cars in the NE, where snow and salt rule the
roads. Even my Neon (ack) was recalled to replace a rubber brake line mount,
because it caused a rusty spot. They replaced it with a nylon clip-type
mount. The front cooler line is subject to the same problem where it passes
through a rubber 'protective sheath'. When this goes it sprays fluid all
over your belts. :(
This is an EASY way to save $300 + installation on a new rack. You can be
sure that most shops would rather put in a new rack with 6+ book hours of
labor than a couple lines ($30 & $40 I think) that take maybe an hour.
For reference, you must really crawl totally under the car to see this. I
had mine on ramps, I think Tome had a lift (much nicer). You can't see the
lines unless you are directly under the rack.
Both of ours are FWD, maybe the AWD's are different, but I can't imagine
much.
Kudos to Roger Burdick Mitsubishi in N. Syracuse NY too, these guys are
great. The parts department is always full of good, accurate advice, usually
have parts in stock and have good prices, and they are open till 7pm 6 days
a week.
And, to boot, they seem honest. The Service manager said "We replace these
all the time. Sure beats getting a new rack". Oh, and they don't give me
that "It's an Eagle, not a Mitsubishi. Can't help you." crap that I have
gotten other places.
Peace
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:52:58 EST
Subject: re: boost gauge not neccessary
Message-ID: <#57>
Hello,
>>Boost guages are nice beforehand to watch what the mods do, but not
>>really necessary until you get a boost controller and turn the boost up.
>Not true. A boost gauge is one of the first mods you should do.
>You can run a dangerous amount of boost WITHOUT ever
>connecting a boost controller!
Now THAT is very true. On my 91 with just a full 2.5" exhaust and boost
solenoid restrictor removed I got boost from 15psi in 1st to 19psi in 4th/5th!
I put a boost controller on to get CONTROL of the boost and actually lower it
some. Remember, without a fuel pump you shouldn't go that high. Now I have
the
mods to safely run 18psi and I have run 20psi at the track on race gas. The
funny thing is, when I'm at 20psi ACTUAL boost, the stock gauge STILL is not
at 14psi!
THE STOCK BOOST GAUGE IS WORTHLESS, unless you have ToddsModds and
you use it
as a timing monitor!
>If I had the time, I'd get a Valentine One, but I don't. So what the
>best detector I can get on short notice -- like by Thurday. Cost is no
>object.
Gee, I always thought cost WAS an object...must be nice! :o)
Later,
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD
------------------------------
Date: 14 Jan 1998 12:25:49 -0600
From: "Denke, Ryan (AZ75)" <[email protected]>
Subject: Turbos, Club DSM SW
Message-ID: <#58>
Speaking of big turbos, If you ever get a chance to look at the diesel
turbines on the 240+ ton haul trucks used at (coal) mines, you will see some
of the biggest turbos that exist. The engines have 16 cylinders, and are
used solely to provide electrical power, as the wheels are turned by
electric motors. While I was there, a turbo blew up on one of the trucks,
although I didn't get to see it. I heard it was pretty loud, and blew up
into lots of tiny pieces (didn't get to check it out though).
Anyway... Club DSM SW is almost here. The membership database is what's
holding me back (just don't have the time), so I'm going to make it
available without the member database. I also need to do a lot of work to
automate submissions. As per Todd's suggestion, we will cover Arizona, New
Mexico, and now Utah and Nevada. I believe this makes us the largest
regional club in the US. I will be asking for submissions of racing
pictures, and commentary about service shops; so keep this in mind if you
live within our region. In fact, feel free to email them to me now. The
commentary about the service shop should include your name, email address,
the shop's name, address, and website (if applicable), and a brief
commentary on the experiences you have had at the shop. Comment about
competency. Did they know what they were doing? Did they shun you because
of
your mods? Keep it objective and fair. Your email address will be proveded
as a link so others can question you about your experiences.
That's it for now.
Ryan Denke
'91 Talon NT, Nothing broke today, and I don't sell Amsoil.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:37:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Rotors
Message-ID: <#59>
I have a 1G GSX 1990. I have read all the archives on rotor
removal and still cannot get the drivers side off. The screw holes are
stripped and I have banged on it repeatly (Towards the car) around the
studs with a sledge hammer. I even used PB Blaster spray (Like liquid
wrench). The thing just won't budge. Does anyone have any unique
suggestions that don't involve a hydrolic drum puller.
RTP please
TIA Tom
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:11:31 -0500
From: "Mike Montalvo" <[email protected]>
Subject: 0-100-0
Message-ID: <#60>
The test I saw was from Car and Driver. They were all new cars though. I
believe the 911 turbo awd was the winner doing it under 14 second! It was
slightly slower to 100 mph than one of the other cars (I dont remember wich
one), but it was the best in the stopping department. I guess those huge
brakes on the 911 paid off. As far as my 90 GSX doing this, I know it
takes mine just about 14 seconds to get to 100mph and as far as stopping
with those dinky little brakes...hahahah
I will be doing the big brake upgrade soon (2 piston calipers from
Diamonte) I will post on my findings.
Mike Montalvo
90 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:04:51 -0800
From: "Juan Laguna [ESRI-Redlands]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Question on tire replacement
Message-ID: <#61>
Hey guys. What sort of duration did you get out of the stock
tires? I have about 18,500 miles on the RS-A's, and think that
after the next rotation I'll need to get some new ones. Is 25,000
miles or so the expected limit for these?
Now, this will give me the opportunity to get replace those Really
$h!tty and Awful tires with something better. Since they seem to
be closing them out, what would your opinions be about getting a
set of 205/55-16 D40 M2's 5-7000 miles in advance of actual
installation? I think they are going for about $80 a pop these
days.
I was hopping to use the replacement as an opportunity to move up
to 215/45-R17 with cool new rims, but the $$$ required is above
what I realistically have available. I can live with the stock
size, and I suspect that the dunlop rubber will handle better than
the goodyears anyways, right?
L8R
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:12:44 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Sarcasm Revisited
Message-ID: <#62>
>>(RUFRIDR's original post)
>>I didn't like it, nonetheless. Hope not too many other people
>>felt it was a laughing matter either.
>(Mario Says)
>Geez didn't you guys get that Hank was kidding. Hell the title of the
>post was "Sarcasm"!
Mario, and Group
I'm tired of bringing this up. If my plate wasn't "RUFRIDR", this
whole mess wouldn't be here. Well, maybe not. I just don't think of the
accident I had as very funny. Sure, I've laughed a few times, to make the
pain of being without a DSM 9 MONTHS, but hey, the jokes have to stop.
My mother and myself were almost killed, we stayed in the hospital
a long time, and we were in physical therapy for 9 months. I would
understand if it was a deer, or whathaveyou, or me doing something crazy
like racing away from a cop, thru a park, and hitting a jungleGYM. BUT I
DIDN'T. Just drop it.
Sorry to bring this up again. A 9 month joke, that's what it's
been. Maybe I'll just buy a broken down NT, and park it in the backyard,
just to satisfy EVERYBODY on EARTH to shut the hell up about not having a
DSM. Yeah, I can't pick lawyers worth a flip, but what lawyer can you say
is a GOOD ONE? (Don't answer that, and to the lawyers on the digest,
exclude yerselves, and don't sue me)
This email wasn't meant as a joke either, so don't make one out of
it. Yeah the horse died, to put an end to that thread. Half of my damn
guestbook is filled with comments like, "Did the horse die?" "What
happened to the horse?" AND ON AND ON AND ON...I'm not going to beg. I
just hope it stops. L8R.
Hank Bell "RUFRIDR"
[Hank - I don't think any of the jokes were meant to be mean. In
general, the group here has come to know you as someone who can
dish it out as well as take it. I think this is the first time
you let us know that it was such a serious incident. I certainly
hadn't realized it until this point. On the face of it, without
knowing about what really happened, hitting a horse seems like
the ultimate capper to your string of really bad luck incidents
with DSMs. In Mario's post, he links his not wanting to hit a
Mustang to your incident with the horse, making a pun out the
car's name. I don't think he meant to be mean.
Anyway, now that we are all aware of what a sore spot it is and
how serious an incident it was, I'm sure we'll all back off a
bit. Something like that is quite unusual, though, and will
probably follow you for some time, like my "incident" with the
M3. Can't turn around these days without seening some remark
about my shifting prowess. I even get it here at work.
-talon mgr]
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:51:33 -0700
Subject: Winter Gas vs. O2 Sensor
Message-ID: <#63>
Do oxygenated fuels (MTBE and etc...) affect your O2 sensor readings?
(I expect so...)
How? If they artificially increase the readings then adjusting your
mixture to .88 volts could lean things out too much, couldn't it?
If they drop readings it might explain why my milage is so bad in the
winter...
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:59:12 -0600
Subject: Clutch Mileage
Message-ID: <#64>
I've got close to 200 000 km on my original clutch. That's around 120
000 miles. Not a record but quite impressive. And I drive VERY hard. I
have had a bank account set up with $1200 in it for the past 2 years
because I expect that clutch will just explode one day. It just won't
die, power shifts and 5000 RPM launches all the time! If there's
anything left when it does go, I think I'm going to clean it up and put
it on the coffee table as a conversation piece.
BTW: I am finally subscribed to the HTML digest! Thanks for all your
help.
David Scott
'90 TSi AWD
1st clutch ever!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 13:56:07 -0600
From: scott miller <[email protected]>
Subject: - AN Fittings for High Pressure Hoses
Message-ID: <#65>
For those of us that work on our cars using AN fittings (fuel line, fuel
rail, water lines, etc.), here is some background:
A-N stands for (Army - Navy), The sizes are in 1/16" increments.
6 an = 6/16" or (3/8"), 10 an = 10/16" or (5/8") all are internal hose sizes.
It was designed as a High-Pressure system for military (primarilly aircraft)
and was designed by the American Aerospace Industry. The numbers are
basically the outside diameter (O.D.) of the tubing in 1/16". The only
problem is that different plumbing manufacturers vary in ID sizing. The
Earl's -6 for example is nearly as large as the Russel -8.
The dash(-) sizing became it's own standard, so there is no actual standard
to the outside (wrench sizing) for various AN connectors. The dash (-) is it's
inside diameter of flow, can also be based upon it's actual flow rating. The
Racing AN manufacturers (Earl's Russel, and even Aeroquip) did decide on
a "sort of" standard for the outside wrench size. The best wrenches
for your Anodized Fittings is one of the various specialized sets from Tavia,
Earls, Russel and others. Buy a set and not worry about that Metric wrench
you're using.
The AN Sizings of racing fittings are close in most cases to this chart
below:
AN Size
~2
~3
~4
~5
~6
~8
~10
~12
~16
~20
~24
~28
~32
Metal Tube O.D.
Thread Size
1/8"
5/16 - 24 SAE
3/16
3/8 - 24 SAE
1/4
7/16 - 20 SAE
5/16
1/2 - 20 SAE
3/8
9/16 - 18 SAE
1/2
3/4 - 16 SAE
5/8
7/8 - 14 SAE
3/4
1-1/16 - 12 SAE
1"
1-5/16 - 12 SAE
1-1/4
1-5/8 - 12 SAE
1-1/2
1-7/8 - 12 SAE
1-3/4
2-1/4 - 12 SAE
2"
2-1/2 - 12 SAE
The thread sizes are industry standard. (none of these are "Wrench" sizes)
If you really want to learn more than you'll ever need to know about "ALL"
fittings and hoses. Including, SAE-J512c, AN, JTI, German, Japanese, Global,
French, Brutish and a bunch more, get the book from Aeroquip. Catalog
#JA316
(it may have a revised number). It's about an inch thick...! It gives
you all the pressure ratings, styles, connections, directions, tech, part #'s
and more ... ENJOY. ... Aeroquip will love all of you getting their
catalog... =)
AEROQUIP
Catalog Center
PO# 785
Dayton, OH. 45482-9911
This is the most recent address I have for them... Again, the BIG book
(not racing specific) is #JA316 and is over 400 pages.
Scott Miller
90 Talon AWD
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
[I'm sure the following will piss several people off.
Good. I want them to really think about this issue.
Ask any long-time list member - on the following points,
I have been unwavering. As the custodian of this list,
I feel I have a responsibility to educate others on
this issue. It is something I've felt strongly about
for some time, and I must make a stand.
I've seen several posts over these past couple days about
making "stealth cats". Test pipes that look like catalytic
converters. So that the owners can drive their cars around
without cats without looking "obvious" to any cop that might
pull them over. I must say that I am completely against
such devices and against gutting the brick out of cats. The
entire pollution control system in a car is built around the
premise of a working catalytic converter. Just because your
car can pass the current "no-load" smog tests does not mean
your car is not a gross polluter under load. You remove the
cat, your car is choking out massive amounts of NOx and HC
and other nasties. I *can* tell when I'm driving behind a
car without a cat. Almost as enjoyable as following a
Mercedes TurboDiesel. We all enjoy breathing your crap,
thank you very much.
Funny how the supposed motto of Club DSM (borrowed from
the Turbo Buick crowd) is "Go Fast with Class". And we rag
on the Hondas for gutting their cars. While we are gutting
our cats and blocking off EGR and venting PCV gasses and
removing the charcoal canister EVAP system. What a bunch
of hypocrites. It especially chaps my hide in this day
of high-flow cats, three inch and bigger, now. No excuses
for the street.
Now California and other states are cracking down *HARD*.
Because the great unwashed cannot be trusted to (a) keep
their cars in tune, and (b) not tamper with smog equipment,
*ALL* of us in smog-impacted areas are subject to
load-testing our cars on a dyno. Thanks, guys. Hope that
extra half car-length on that Camaro was worth it.
I don't want to hear any "comparative morality" arguments
about buses, trucks, pre-80s cars, or power plants, either.
I don't want to hear any crap about "big-brother". If you
don't give a $h!t about your contribution to the smog load,
be man enough to admit it without making weak excuses to
justify your behavior.
-talon mgr]
Today's Topics:
1) Toast
GSX got beat up, different gear ratios 95->98?
2) Mung Bungholio
Re: pics on the HTML digest
3) Gollatz, Fred
ABS Removal
4) Dennis & Sherry
mechanic
5) Christopher J. Heim Clutch longevity [1G, T]
6) Herstek, Andrew
First post
7) Farzaan Kassam
Swepco trans fluid.
8) John Q. Tran
License Plate Holes and Amps For Sale
10) Alexander S.
Woooo-Hoooo!!!
11) Bill Shultz
how's this for reliability
12) JDusio
Stealth Cat Response
13) Gawlowski, David
The day of mourning
14) Mac Crossett
Re: boost values
15) DROPIE
PANAMA CITY DSM'ers, David Brode and switching tra
16) Bobby B
DSM FOR SALE
17) Whoa Ted
Re: Beaten by 3000GT VR-4! (kinda)
18) Alain Michot
I/C pipes popping out while racing
19) Steve Patriquen
Re: TALON'S DEMISE
20) Mr Ming
blitz
21) Brian Byers
Irresponsible driving
22) Michael
Digest members? Redline, BG stats
23) Mr.Moo
Clutches/Cats and the Great Pumpkin
24) Steve
Re: 0-100-0
25) Brian Byers
Catalytic Converter Removal [2G,T]
Re: MAS screw
27) Tom Stangl
Re: Rotors
28) Jim
Tsi runs!!!!!!
29) Chris Dotur
OK/TX Occupants (RTP)
30) Gade Hayes
Happy Day, Gauges, Clutches, "Stealth" Cats
Re: Elevation and vacuum (correlation?)
Re: Stealth Cat
33) AWD20L
<All> Fool proof plan to sell part on net
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
43)
44)
45)
47)
Frank Mowry
Re: Clutch longevity and Sarcasm Revisited
Deedler, Adam
Sticky Power Antenna
Jeff Brinkerhoff
Cats again
Warren C Daniel
Racing insane people
The Platypuss
Prism Blue Paint
Stan Moskal
{2g,t,AWD;all} hi flow cat part#?
Robert Deis
Stealth Cat
TurboX
top this (clutch) -- reply
Mike Montalvo
Is this you?
truscha
RE: 1g radio problem
Devil Bat
Engine build up
Chad Gray
2G Eclipse GSX in the Rolex 24 Hour Race
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:02:42 -0800
From: Toast <[email protected]>
Subject: GSX got beat up, different gear ratios 95->98?
Message-ID: <#1>
Black 98 GSX...1150 miles...just waxed...nailed by a HONDA!
Argh, new year definitely came in with a bang for me. I live in a high
rise and we have assigned parking in the underground garage. I park
next to a young lady who drives a Honda Civic. Both cars are black.
Both cars are brand new(both still have temp tags too). It appears this
lady while backing out hit my side air dam and rear quarter panel on the
passenger side. Needless to say, I was very very ticked off.
Fortunately, the lady was very nice and apologetic and didn't hesitate
to foot the repair bill. The estimate from the body shop was $498.84
which was surprising since it was just a few scrapes and a small ding on
the quarter panel.
On another note, I was looking through the most recent issue of Sport
Compact Car...again, and I looked at the gear ratios for the 98 GSX and
I saw that fourth gear was overdrive...hmmmm that didn't sit well with
me. Well, then I went through some old magazines and found the
Road&Track issue with the review of the 95 GSX(I would post the date of
the issue but I'm not at home typing this and I can't remember). Well,
it seems that the gear ratios and final drive are different between the
95 and 98. In the Road&Track, they said the 95 kept the same gear
ratios and such from the 94s. So, does anyone know if the info in these
articles are both correct? I still have yet to receive service and tech
manuals from the dealer so I don't know what the gear ratios and final
drive are in the 98s. Could someone post the 95 and 98 gear ratios and
final drive for the AWD 5-speeds? From the info in the mags, I
calculated the theoretical max speeds in each gear and they are
basically the same give or take about 3mph so there wouldn't be any
perforamnce gains. Why would Mitsu do something like this? My theory
is someone dropped in a 4 spider center diff and they fixed the transfer
case leak and decided not to tell anyone because they wanted to surprise
everyone... ;-)
Toast
Black 98 GSX- currently sidelined due to strenuous first contact rituals
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:54:11 -0500
Subject: Re: pics on the HTML digest
Message-ID: <#2>
>There is one thing I could do. If a URL ends in .jpg, .jpeg, or .gif,
>I could make the digestifier output an IMG tag.
That's how I would do it. That way if people want to see the pics they can
and if they don't then they don't.
>BTW - I've always wondered - how much work do the heads usually need
>when the valves get bent? How about the pistons?
Now mine was far from typical but I am sure the damage was about the same.
The head itself was fine. I bent all 8 intake and 4 of the exhaust valves.
Scratched the intake cam a little and killed the timing cover. I had the
head machined and replaced all of the valves, guides and seals. With parts
and labor for everything it's going to come to about $960.00. All because
the idiot that replaced the T-belt didn't read/have the TSB.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:56:48 -0500
From: "Gollatz, Fred" <[email protected]>
Subject: ABS Removal
Message-ID: <#3>
It's been a while since I last posted but I need some advise. I'm
rebuilding my '92 Laser RS AWD as a track car and was wondering if
anyone has experience in removing the ABS system. It just takes up too
much room under the engine bay! The questions I need answered are along
the lines of the electronics system and the master cylinder valving. I
can handle the plumbing of the new brake lines but need some info on the
other stuff. If possible and anyone is interested I'd be willing to
trade someone for a '92 non ABS system straight up. Please RTP.
Fred Gollatz
irc BigDawg
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 14:32:04 -0800
From: Dennis & Sherry <[email protected]>
Subject: mechanic
Message-ID: <#4>
Can anyone recommend a good mechanic for my Laser in central CA in the
Modesto-Merced area? Thanks
Dennis
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:15:36 -0000
From: "Christopher J. Heim" <[email protected]>
Subject: Clutch longevity [1G, T]
Message-ID: <#5>
For what it's worth...
>132K+ miles on the ORIGINAL clutch in my 90 GSX
I'm close... I've got 124K on my '91 TSiAWD's original stocker, having
pulled the jetski and camping gear all over the place, and not exactly
babying things... but then, I never rest my foot on the clutch pedal either
~ which some folks do. This would make for an interesting little database but I haven't the time to contribute. Anybody out there game?
Chris Heim
Boostin' all over the U.K.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 18:42:00 -0500
From: "Herstek, Andrew" <[email protected]>
Subject: First post
Message-ID: <#6>
1. This is my first post. Please be kind.
2. I would like to plug Tallahassee Mitsubishi for the excellent
service and prices that I have received. John at Tallahassee has been
extremely receptive and patient. This is his info (1-888-tall-mit)
M-F 8:00am to 5:30pm EST. Just ask for John! OR
WWW.WORLDPARTS.COM/TALLMITS.
3. A month or so ago, I had a major tranny melt down. Thanks to all
who helped me out with their email.
4. Tom Stangl, I did not forget about the BCS. I have not had a
chance to put it in the mail as I have been so stinkin' busy.
5. Todd Day, sorry, the check is not in the mail. I have had a minor
financial setback and as yet am unable to help you out. I expect to
be able to help you out in the near future and want to since your site
has been such a great deal of help to me.
6. All other people who do not own a DSM and have something bad to
say about them...SCREW YOU!
7. If anyone has question about rebuilding their car tranny, let me
know, I've taken it out and put it in several times!
Thanks,
Andrew Herstek
91 Laser RS Turbo!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:22:22 -0800
Subject: Swepco trans fluid.
Message-ID: <#7>
Howdy,
Just wanted to ask if anyone tried the Swepco transmission oil I had
mentioned
a while back? I wanted to know if it helped the transmission parts life.
The WA/B.C. event is moving ahead nicely. I'm expecting around 20-30
participants. Best of all, we've secured Greg Fordahl to design the course,
we're talking 3rd gear autocross in my car which is like top of 3rd in
a DSM (should hit around 130-140km/h in the dry). This should keep the
turbo clan happy :) Don't worry NA guys, there will be some tight stuff
for you to make up that time.
I'll keep the list posted about the exact date (trying to work it around
my kart practice times).
Farzaan.
[email protected]
1989 Porsche 944 Turbo / CRG-Yamaha race kart
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:56:00 -0500
Subject: License Plate Holes and Amps For Sale
Message-ID: <#8>
I would like to thank all those people who gave me their solutions to the
front license plate holes. I will probably just buy those little trim
cover pieces for right now, because I might be getting a Veilside Kit
sometime in the future (not anytime soon, however :oP).
**RTP**
Since I just traded in my '93 Camaro Z28, I took out my stereo system and
now selling most of it. Check out my installation at
http://members.aol.com/jtranman/camaro/stereo.htm. I just got a '98
Eclipse GSX, and I REALLY REALLY REALLY NEED money for some
performance
parts...soooooo
I am selling three Phoenix Gold Amps. Two MS-275's and one MPS-2140. The
MS-275's are rated 75wattsX2 @ 4ohms and the MPS-2140 is rated 24wattsX2 @
4ohms. One of the MS-275's have some scratches, but otherwise in perfect
working condition. I paid $535 each new, only used for about a year...never
abused (well, besides the scratches) and asking $235 each firm. Maybe plus
shipping, but depends on how much it will be to ship...
I would appreciate inquires from around the Cleveland area, ''cause I can
deliver them personally...at least the amps...but I'll send COD anywhere.
Serious inquires only! Email me at: [email protected]
BTW, I will consider trading the Phoenix Gold amps for GReddy Profec A, RS
Akimoto Intake, SPI Boost Gauge, or anything else you might have laying
around and want to trade with. If interested, make me a trading offer, k?
John Tran
[email protected]
1998 Eclipse GSX
P.S. I had posted about these amps on DSM Trader, however, I had lost all the
email addresses of the potential buyers. So if you are still interested,
please email me.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 16:39:04 -0000
Subject: Woooo-Hoooo!!!
Message-ID: <#10>
Hello Happy DSMers!
I want to let everyone know that I am in the "G" club now. Not "16G", not
"20G", but "18G". With the help of Mike and Tony of RoadRace Enginnering I
became the lucky owner of the insane GReddy 18G Turbo Kit, GReddy Front
Mount
Intercooler and some other neet stuff, but before...
... it all started with the Dyno test. With GReddy Airnix, GReddy Catback,
Highflow Cat, GReddy Profec A, Magnecors, NGKs, GReddy BOV and GReddy IC
Pipes
my car made 166.7 HP, and 160.0 lbs of torque a the wheels. It might not be so
high, but don't forget, I have an automatic. The boost was set at 1.0 bar,
which equals 14psi...
After the test, the work started. Mike and Tony (RRE) installed the Turbo, FM
IC in about 5 hours. Super Street Magazine was taking pictures, so it took a
little bit longer. The 18G looks big. It has 6cm housing (so what?) and the
wheel is less than a mm smaller than the wheel from 20G. The intake side of
the 18G is like twice as big as the stock one. It is a Mitsubishi Turbo made
for GReddy. Everything was ported, and smoothed. Installation of both didn't
require any cuts or welds. Just the front bumper was shaved a little bit, so
the IC pipe would fit. Turbo sticks out a lot, so now I know, that I have a
turbo car. Oh yeah, Mike made a custom 2.5 inch straight downpipe.
Next day we installed Denso fuel pump and I finally connected my REBIC III
with Mike's help. He custom made an iron elbow, that bolts on the throttle
body to weld on one Denso 550cc injector which was connected to REBIC III.
Lots of people don't like REBIC, but I like it. The problem with 1 550cc
injector, is that the fuel is *MIGHT* be destributed unevenly between the
cylinders with 1 injector. I repeat, it MIGHT. It Probably won't. If it will
thouigh (I am checking my spark plugs every day) I will have to make a custom
fule rail, and put 4 injectors down at the intake manifold. Mike also
installed front and rear KONI's while I was connecting new GReddy Electronic
boost and EGT gauges. Then we took it to the Dyno again. My car made
fantastic
220.9 HP and 199.8 lbs of torque, and it's only with the same 1.0 bar = 14 psi
of boost. Mike didn't take it up on perpose, so we could REALLY see the
difference. Same boost, but almost 60 HP increase at the wheels.
Reprograming that FUZZY Profec A was real pain in the butt. If any of you
AUTOMATIC guys had good results with programming it, let me know how you
did
it.
So that is my story. If any of you have any questions, please e-mail me for
details. I will put some pics and info on my site, so check it out there.
Oh yeah, I saw many cool DSM's over at RRE. I saw big Josh and his yellow
monster, Kevin Koo and his red GSX and some other people's cars. Some of
them
are probably on IRC and knew me, but they were shy or something to say
"Hello"
Check out the pics
www.yelloweclipse.com
X-t on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:29:19 -0500
Subject: how's this for reliability
Message-ID: <#11>
I thought I'd pass along the responses I got to my "Cluth longevity"
post. I think some of this goes a long way toward vouching for the
overall reliability of the DSM/TEL line (well kinda).
Ranked by number of miles, these are the longest lasting stock TEL
clutches I've heard about:
170,000+ and counting(?) - Keith, 92 Talon (YOWZA!)
162,000+ and counting(?) - Lee, 90 Laser
132,600+ and counting - Bill Shultz (ME), 90 GSX
123,000 but days are #'d - Kyle, ? but probably one of TEL
120,000 but getting "tired" - Kevin, ? but probably one of TEL
90,000 and "still feels fine" - Jeff, 91 TSI
50,000 period - Victor, 95 Talon TSI (but he's got a freind who ... :^)
non-TEL honorable mention:
250,000 - Victor's friend, Volvo 242glt (including auto-x miles!)
187,000 - Jeff (and someone he knows), 87 Isuzu Trooper
Anyone else care to be added to the list? let me know
Talk to ya later
Bill
90 GSX
Still waiting to hear about a longer lasting stock turbo ;^)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:42:43 EST
From: JDusio <[email protected]>
Subject: Stealth Cat Response
Message-ID: <#12>
In response to the question could I build a stealth cat by removing the cats
internal elements or punching a pipe strait through. The cat is an essential
part of your car for non race use. It eliminates not only Deadly Carbon
Monoxide but also offers a small but useful scavenging effect. Removing a cats
internal bricks is easy but paying for the fine if found out is
unrealistically high. Most states can refuse to reinspect the vehicle until a
certified emissions specialist confirms that a new cat has been put on. This
being unfair a large band of racers banded together to make legislation in
your favor. You may replace the stock cat with one of high performance design
after your vehicle reaches 50,000 miles. I would suggest you speak to the guys
at random technologies (Cat experts -they make almost indestructible high
performance high flow units) call 770-978-0264 . These units are cheap in
comparison to a fine or injuring your passengers with gaseous deadly fumes.
check your states rules and regs. Good Luck (Deuce)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 17:44:00 -0600
From: "Gawlowski, David" <[email protected]>
Subject: The day of mourning
Message-ID: <#13>
>Fellow DSMer's, D-Day for the Eagle Talon is the 26th of January. That is when
>we put the last one on the manufacturing line. All antenna's should be at
>half-mast.
How about we all remove our antennas for the day? Or a strip of black
electrical tape at half mast? There's got to be something we can do to
publicly represent our mourning for the demise of such a great
machine...
Dave
1997 Black AWD
'My F15'
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 19:58:38 -0600
Subject: Re: boost values
Message-ID: <#14>
>Tonight on the way home I watched the gauge closely. There was a
>peak of 20-21psi which would settle at 17-18 with increased
>revs...Would the upper IC pipe make that much difference?
That and the BOV. The 2G's upper IC pipe has a major restriction
where it bends under the factory air box. Several people,
including myself, have noted an extra 1psi or so from replacing
it. The stock BOV also bleeds boost above 14-15psi or so, which
pretty much limits boost to those levels until you replace it.
With those mods, the stock boost control system will give you
17-18psi.
Now, the T25 turbo isn't real efficient at those higher flow
rates, and boost will start to drop off at about 5500rpm as the
compressor flow chokes and it can't provide any additional air.
That's the downside. The up side is that you don't need a boost
controller, and you can't possibly exceed the limits of the stock
fuel pump with a stock turbo.
Unless it's bitter cold and the boost spikes above 20psi, I don't
hit fuel cut...in fact, I've only hit it twice this winter, and
then only for the fraction of a second it took for the boost to
settle down.
Mac Crossett
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:11:58 EST
From: DROPIE <[email protected]>
Subject: PANAMA CITY DSM'ers, David Brode and switching trannsmissions
Message-ID: <#15>
If anyone that lives in Panama City that reads the digest could you drop me
some email please. I will be moving down in Febuary and I would like to find
out information about the area.
The other day some one made a post about a guy named David Brode that
made a
2g upper intercooler pipe. If any one could give me info about how to contact
him I would appreciate it.
Also I would like to know if how hard it is to put a 5 speed into a 92 awd
auto and how hard of a job and expensive it is.
Thanks
Travis aka dropie
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 21:18:33 -0600
Subject: DSM FOR SALE
Message-ID: <#16>
Hey all
I am looking to sell my DSM (sorry guys :)).
Car is a 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD,
Black, with grey LEATHER interior
Has ALL options (no sunroof though, was this offered?)
About 62,000 miles,
Has the following mods:
DaveB Upper IC Pipe
Mark Sheitzbach White Gauge Faces (they look magnificent, thanks Mark)
2.5" Turbo back exhaust (with hiflow cat installed)
And has a custom polished (by Eric "Screaming Eagle") valve cover
Also it has 16" Niche Runner rims, and comes with 3 of the stock rims if you
want.
I would like to get about $5000 for it. This is a really nice car. Hank,
you interested? (we all know 1gs are better looking than 2gs!)
Bobby Bernauer
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:21:00 EST
From: Whoa Ted <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Beaten by 3000GT VR-4! (kinda)
Message-ID: <#17>
>We're zooming
>through lunch traffic @ 130 mph and he would cut
>between cars with no space! You know how normally
>you can see the flow of traffic and could tell which way
>a car would go? I had no clue! Left? Right? I had no
>idea! Most times, all lanes had no space. I'm chasing
>this guy across all 4 - 5 lanes!
I'm sure most that subscribe to this digest drive fast. I certainly find it
hard to resist a lightly travelled highway. And hey, I love a good war story
as much as the next T/E/L driver. For many, that's part of what having a
performance car is about, but, come on dude! 130 "through lunch traffic"?
130 and you "had no clue"? 130 and "most times, all lanes had no space"? 130
and you are "chasing this guy across all 4 - 5 lanes"? Would you have had any
remorse if you and another car happened to clip each other when you were
going
130 and that other car contained a mother, a one year old, and a three year
old? Try to think about that scenario the next time, as you put it, "the guy
and I look at each other".
-----------------------------Date: 14 Jan 1998 15:50 EST
From: "Alain Michot" <[email protected]>
Subject: I/C pipes popping out while racing
Message-ID: <#18>
Often this occurs under boost (or rather OVERBOOST) situations. It used to
happen to me until I performed the following trick: The I/C pipes upgrade
consist of several pipes connected by rubberized "Joints" (for lack of a
better word) onto which you put a hose clamp. Under pressure, the clamp
slips ... and you know the rest. I took the clamps out, slipped the end of
each pipe out and sprayed some hair spray over the last inch or so of pipe
(360 Deg) I then slipped the pipe back into the joint and retightened the
clamp. Perform the above to each tip of each pipe and they should stay put
forever. The hair spray "adhesive" is strong enough to keep the pipes from
slipping but not like glue so that you can still take them apart if necessary.
Good luck
Alain Michot
626 Turbo Mazda
Soon 92-94 GSX !
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:59:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Steve Patriquen <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: TALON'S DEMISE
Message-ID: <#19>
[RTP]
Sorry if someone already brought this up, but what happens to Canadian
members
who want to replace their DSMs?
Since Mitsubishi doesn't sell cars in Canada, once Eagle is gone, there is
no option.
Steve P - 92 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:38:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Mr Ming <[email protected]>
Subject: blitz
Message-ID: <#20>
Is there anyone out there know if there is a blitz dealer that is selling
the dual turbo timer, dual sbc and the super sound blow off valve? I have
these items and there is a few wires that I don't know about cause I don't
read japanese! thanks
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:53:06 -0600
Subject: Irresponsible driving
Message-ID: <#21>
>>We're zooming through lunch traffic @ 130 mph...
>>I'm chasing this guy across all 4 - 5 lanes!
>
>This is beyond bad judgement. You were endangering the lives of innocent
>people. If someone had unknowingly pulled out in front of your car, you could
>not have avoided them.
Amen Dan...
Racing at 130MPH is cool and all, but do it out of traffic. If I get
hit at 130MPH and I am alive and they live through it, I would whip some
serious a$$ after the fact.
Brian - 97 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:54:48 -0500
Subject: Digest members? Redline, BG stats
Message-ID: <#22>
Yesterday and today I had to make trips from Orlando to Lakeland here in
Florida. Coming back last night in Lakeland there was a blue (that
kinda aqua color) Talon with neons underneath that the police had pulled
over. Digest member?
Also tonight on I-4 between the Disney and Sea World area what looked
like a Laser sailed past me. It was red and had a big Diamond Star
logo taking up most of the rear window. This another member? The car
sounded like it had a different exhaust on as it flew past.
So why didn't I pursue, you might be asking? I was in my g/f's Escort.
The loaner battery in my car is dead as a doornail. Tonight my shop
came and picked up the car and will be finishing and tweaking the mods I
had them put in. Should have it back all ready to fly this weekend.
Also worked out a deal from another Digest member on a short shaft to
control the torque steer I'll be getting from this pup! Money order
should be on it's way by the time this is printed.
Anyone have any stats on Redline and BG Syncroshift? I'd like to
compare it to the Amsoil Series 2000.
Mike
91 Laser RS-T
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:06:58 -0500
From: "Mr.Moo" <[email protected]>
Subject: Clutches/Cats and the Great Pumpkin
Message-ID: <#23>
Just felt like writing seeing how I should be working and this is more
fun!
SuperMilage Clutches...
Well, I got my 90 GS-T w/63k on it and changed the clutch at 75k...
Then just for fun this summer it went again with just under 100k on
it... I know that I am not the cause seeing how I know how to
drive...what cow doesn't? I am thinking someone has put in a
chipper/shreader wheel where the flywheel is... Funny joke you bastard!
Now with 108k on my baby it feels like the clutch is going again...
(grabs in the last 1" of travel) This is how it was before the 2nd
change, then the thing would slip under heavy accel and when it was
slipping it just burned off the last bit in 2 weeks of reg driving. I
do love the grab of a new clutch but this is getting ridiculus...
Perhaps I will do the clutch myself if it really is going... $700 at
satan is just too much a 3rd time...(even though they got it back the
same day, something I doubt I could do myself)
On the cat thing, I was/am planning on doing the "stealth cat" as
someone called it for quite awhile now. I decided that it wouldn't be
bad emissons standpoint but necessary cause in VA they look for them. I
have to have an in pipe emmisions test every year I think now but every
time my car falls WAY below the maximum values. I figure the cat is
doing a good bit but won't put me in the fail range (hoping) The best
part is the older the car gets the higher the values are to pass. The
enviornment is f-ed regardless... just look at the new huge SUVs...
they are so big that they are exempt from the regulations currently
imposed on new automobiles... They could basically burn coal directly
and be in the clear.
Question: Someone referred to a $65 upper IC pipe. Who makes these?
Think it said Brode but I didn't find a link in the vendor list.
Sent an email for the 3 gauge A-pillar.
Suggestion: When changing the hatch struts make sure you have
someone/thing to hold the hatch up securely... (common sense here) I
decided to change my struts for the 2nd time seeing how they just aren't
holding(still offully strong when they came off). At least the new ones
(pepboys) are warranties for life. Anyway I had the top connections off
and was working on the lower ones and ssssssssssp BAMMMM the thing falls
on me. Luckily, it hit me over a good section of my back and the clasp
in the middle just missed. Now, I have nothing to hold the hatch up (I
gave up after the attack) and I managed to lose a screw from the bottom
connection on the driver side into the body!
Aaron - seeing pumpkins around the head... why not stars?
90 GS-T - attack of the hatch back
IRC - MrMoo
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 00:05:34 -0500
Subject: Re: 0-100-0
Message-ID: <#24>
>The test I saw was from Car and Driver. They were all new cars though. I
>believe the 911 turbo awd was the winner doing it under 14 second! It was
>slightly slower to 100 mph than one of the other cars (I don't remember wich
>one), but it was the best in the stopping department.
The car that beat the 911 to 100mph was a Viper GTS
Oh, and if you think 0-100-0 in 14 seconds is fast, come up to Montreal
this June and watch F1 cars do it in about 4 seconds!
Thats FASSST
Steve
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:32:04 -0600
Subject: Catalytic Converter Removal [2G,T]
Message-ID: <#25>
>Can you pass emissions testing without a cat with our cars?
Ummm...nope.
>How much does an aftermarket cat block flow as compared to a test pipe?
I will say this. I installed the 2.5" catback first. Nice power
increase. I installed the test pipe next. More of a power increase.
But the test pipe was working in conjuction with the catback, so I
cannot make a relative comparison here.
>I hope with
>all this talk lately of removing converters that our nice little club here
>doesn't start to be known as a bunch of hooligans running around with
>illegal cars starting drag races with every car that comes alongside at a
>stoplight.
I heard many rumors about a "Check Engine" light when removing the cat.
Well, I have yet to see the light. So far so good. There are so many
mustangs and camaros with no cats on them in my part of town, so I
decided to join the pollution crowd because we have no emissions checks
here.
About the racing everyone comment...I think everyone should live by
these laws to maintain a DSM image.
1. If its a slower car and you know it, wait until you are jumped
on before your blow it away. This is self defense.
2. If it looks like it would be a competition, provoke them.
Anyways...just my two cents worth
Brian - 97 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:41:17 -0700
Message-ID: <#26>
>So why is it that when I pulled my MAS out the little plug was already
>backed all the way out? (with the silicon still covering the head)
>Could this be cause it is a Canadian car?(eh)
Okay, to the best of my knowledge the reason for this plug is to adjust
something that has to do with where the car is located (elevation I believe).
It was set at the factory according to where the car was going. I can't
verify that this is true, but when I took my car in to Satan to track down a
miss I had, they blamed it on me tampering with that screw. "That was set and
the factory and isn't supposed to be messed with unless you are having a
problem (because you took the car to a new state, etc.). This is what they
said, although we all know they have been wrong more than once. I am
surprised yours was backed all the way out from the factory, but I was told
they will all be positioned differently.
[Complete crap. That screw calibrates the air flow to the pulse-train
frequency produced by the MAF. A separate pressure sensor accounts
for altitude differences.
Just wondering - do Satan's mechanics ever use the phrase,
"I don't know"? Or is being a master bull$h!tter a prerequisite for the job?
-talon mgr]
Colby
'90 Talon AWD (just got the H&R's/GAB's on today...Woohoo!)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 22:58:31 -0800
Subject: Re: Rotors
Message-ID: <#27>
You MAY have to order a new rotor, and simply beat the old one until it
cracks apart. I spent FOUR hours trying to remove one of mine, and cracked
it in the process. Stop now, order a new one (search the archives for
Tallahassee Mitsubishi, they are CHEAP), and destroy the old one. Then
read the BigBrake VFAQ on using antiseize to avoid the prob in the future.
Tom Stangl
http://www.vfaq.com/
DSM Visual FAQ home
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:59:17 -0700 (MST)
From: Jim <[email protected]>
Subject: Tsi runs!!!!!!
Message-ID: <#28>
Just finished fixing her, thanks for all who answered my timing problems
post. This is a new one for my stupidity...Turns out that I had the metal
plate behind the crank pulley (with the timing mark on it) turned around
and my timing was WAY off, couldn't figure it out. Well, doesn't matter.
The truth of it all is that if you are rebuilding your 1G motor and don't
put in 95 pistons, you are dumb. I removed the balance shafts and
balanced the whole thing and then threw in some 95's from Archer. Now my
motor is still brand new, but when I loaded the pistons to break them in,
I realized that this thing has more power at stock boost than it ever had
at 15 psi (or close to it). And that isn't even with the rings seated
yet. I love these cars (but not when you haven't driven yours since
october 1!). Thanks you guys!
Jim Colosimo
'91 Tsi with a damn happy owner, but now I have to drive slow for a while ;(
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:43:52 -0600
From: "Chris Dotur" <[email protected]>
Subject: OK/TX Occupants (RTP)
Message-ID: <#29>
GuysI own a '92 3000GT VR-4, am a member of the 3/S mailing list, and
monitor the DSM list for info. Most of you will remember me as the guy that
sold the '96 Texas MDSOG Thanksgiving Shootout videotape. (BTW, I still
have a few extra copies for sale...anyone?) I think I just made the Feb
issue of Super Street, but haven't seen it yet. Anyhows, I just got
transferred to Enid, Oklahoma for Air Force pilot training, and will be
making the drive down I-35 to Arlington, TX next week to have Alamo
Autosports put the 15G turbos on my car as well as some other goodies. I'll
be down in the DFW area from 22-30 Jan or so, with very little to do, and
I'd love to meet any of you guys that are there. Help out a brother car
owner and keep him from dying from boredom in Arlington, eh? Also, would
love to meet you OK people (still here Bill Lawrence?)... I hear there's a
DSM meeting in Tulsa this Sunday that a few of us 3/s owners are already
planning on stopping by.
Chris
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:49:05 -0600
Subject: Happy Day, Gauges, Clutches, "Stealth" Cats
Message-ID: <#30>
Hello Fellow DSM'ers,
Today, is a great day. In less than twelve hours, (it's 1:40 A.M.) I will have the
GReddy machine back. Look out Oklahoma, and parts of Texas...on my way
home. Bryce at
Alamo, spent 7 hours tonight working on a slight problem. Now that's
devotion...these
guy's need praise for what they do...working on a DSM till the wee hours of the
morn,
so some punk college kid can get his engine broken in a day earlier. So, hat's
off to
Bryce Yingling.
Todd, I am in the process of sifting through what I want on my EPROM. Only
thing that
worries me is the rev-limiter. If you have feedback please send it my way. I
know
Ferrerra had probs with the Turbo when he used a limiter...I don't want that.
[Uhhh... not sure what you are talking about. All cars come stock with
a rev limit set to 7500. Please define your use of that term a little
better for me - it means different things to different people, I've
found. Are you talking about the launch RPM selector? -talon mgr]
My clutch, isn't near the record...I've put 178 miles on it the last 8 months...go
figure...anyway, that is probably some kind of low-mileage record...
As to the Stealth cats...I happen to know a place that will do it, as well as
mandrel
bends...if you live in Oklahoma, and want one, give me a call.
That's all folks,
Gade "GReddy" Hayes
"Anywhere, anytime." (I'm back.)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:21:29 -0700
Subject: Re: Elevation and vacuum (correlation?)
Message-ID: <#31>
>One other thing, I live in the high altitude area of NM (Albuquerque), and was
>wondering a few things. First, my idle vaccuum is at around 14 to 15 mmHG,
my
>compression was 115,110,120,130 (not to good). Now are these low numbers
>caused by the fact that I am at 6000-7000 ft., or do I have a serious problem.
>As far as I can tell there aren't any leaks. Second, I have less air up here
>does anybody know what kind of boost I should run. Right now I am at 15-18
psi
>with all the precautions, however I don't want to out boost the turbo, and I
>have never had fuel cut :).
This is interesting; I hope someone has an answer. I too live quite high
(Denver, 5500 ft.) and also have a low vacuum. I idle at 14-16, decel it goes
to about 18-20. I have not yet checked my compression (I'm too scared). When
I had the car in the shop (several actually) trying to solve a miss and heat
soak problem, I pointed out my low vacuum. They said it was normal for this
altitude and that the only time my car would reach 18 (alledged normal idle
vacuum) was during decel, which it does. So they were sure my problems had
nothing to do with my low idle (then they found out I messed with the MAS
screw and tried blaming it on that). Anyways, so I don't know if it is true
that as elevation increases, idle vacuum decreases, but that seems to be the
case for my car as well.
Regarding the boost, I think that boost is boost regardless of altitude.
Higher elevation will have less oxygen for any given amount of air (not less
air as many people assume...actually thinner air, less o2), but 1psi of
pressure is the same regardless. So while you will get less umph per psi, you
can't run more to compensate just because of a higher elevation. But I think
15-18 is okay assuming you have an upgraded fuel pump. Any experts out
there
that can verify this or disagree?
[The lower the ambient air pressure (thinner the air), the more the turbo
will have to work to produce the same pressure. This extra work
translates directly into heating the intake air. If you remember your
chemistry, PV=nRT. Since the volume of the engine stays constants in our
case, if you keep P set to, say 18 psi, and raise T, n must decrease.
That means the amount of air entering the engine decreases. Since fuel
cut is based upon air amount and not boost, the higher the altitude, the
less likely you are to hit fuel cut.
At 7500 feet, you have roughly 3/4 of the air you do at sea level. I'm
guessing that one would be able to turn the boost up 25% over what it is
at sea level before fuel cut would hit. 15psi would translate to
18.75psi.
There is another problem here that must be considered. Let's say you
run 22psi at a track at sea level. You can't just go running 27.5psi
in New Mexico and assume that everything will be okay. 27.5psi
is still 27.5psi. You can still blow the head gasket due to
overpressure, and you also risk massive pre-detonation.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 01:29:23 -0700
Subject: Re: Stealth Cat
Message-ID: <#32>
There is a simple answer for this one; gut a 2.5" cat. That's what I did. I
wanted it to pass visually if I got pulled over, but didn't want the
restriction of a cat. $75, and ten minutes with an ice pick and I was good to
go. On my Fiero kitcar, I did the same thing, and it even passed emissions
with the gutted cat. In two years I'll try to slip my Talon by, if it passes
great, if not I'll buy another cat and swap 'em out every two years.
Colby L.
'90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 05:11:26 EST
Subject: <All> Fool proof plan to sell part on net
Message-ID: <#33>
Hi everybody, I just found this site and thought I might share it with
everybody since there were some cases of fraud which befall unto some
innocent
victims. These are two companies which will prevent that from happening. In
addition, they accept all major credit cards, and best of all, the buyer gets
to inspect the merchandise before they will pay the seller. If the buyer find
the merchandise to be in great shape, he/she will informed the company to
release the funds to the seller. But if the buyer does not like the
merchandise, he/she has to pay for the shipping. Subsequently, when the seller
get his merchandise back, the company will refund the buyer his money.
Now, for the bad part. Both companies charge a fee for their services. If I
remember correctly, IESCROW charge 5%(ouch!) of the sale price. But look on
the bright side, you are sure to get your money. Check out their website.
http://www.iescrow.com/
http://www.trade-direct.com/default.asp?R=onsale
Lee
92' TSI AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:00:01 -0500
Subject: Re: Clutch longevity and Sarcasm Revisited
Message-ID: <#34>
For all you guys getting 100k+ miles out of your AWD clutches, the gas pedal
is on the right. Step on it!
Hank,
For someone who's life revolves around talking so much trash on the IRC, you
are the biggest hypocrit I've ever seen. If you can't take the heat, get the
F*** out of the kitchen. whah whah whah.
Let the flames begin,
Frank Mowry
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:03:19 -0500
From: "Deedler, Adam" <[email protected]>
Subject: Sticky Power Antenna
Message-ID: <#35>
The power antenna in my 97 gets stuck about halfway up, especially
during the winter. Is there some sort of lubricant I should put on it?
thanks, please RTP
A. Deedler
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:09:57 -0500
Subject: Cats again
Message-ID: <#36>
>I hope with all this talk lately of removing converters that our nice little
>club here doesn't start to be known as a bunch of hooligans running
>around with illegal cars starting drag races with every car that comes
>alongside at a stoplight.
That would be the Honda list, we don't bother starting races with anything
much slower than ourselves ;-)
[not much of a war story follows]
BTW, had a Z34 who wouldn't leave me alone last night. You know the type big white Z34 windshield sticker, tint, crown air freshner, wannaB Badass,
etc. I played with him for a mile or two, then stepped on it (didn't even
bother shifting out of 5th). Lost him for awhile, but then the little brat
would not get off my a$$. We finally came to a stop light, both lanes empty,
not a car or cop in sight. I took the left, and the scared little snot
pulled in back of me instead of the other lane. Guess he was scared to get
his a$$ handed to him in front of his girl. It did feel good, since two
weeks ago when my car still had a boost leak I got my a$$ handed to me by a
base model Sunfire...(now that was sad)
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 08:32:36 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Racing insane people
Message-ID: <#37>
Greetings Jim,
For those of us that missed the point,
Mr. VR-4 went thundering through traffic. I didn't.
So what if this guy's was doing 130 through cars,
that doesn't mean I have to, right?
The last thing I'd want to do is hit a family of
4 driving an econo box. So, when I saw this guy
endangering others, I'd just let him go. I'd
only go around other cars when it was safe to do
so, meaning, I had to *slowly* use all 4 or 5 lanes
(always with the turn signal, no less) to clear out.
Of course, I was all in his butt when there wasn't traffic.
Note at the bottom of the story I said that I
finally got a "fair shot." "No cars." Remember that
part? That's where the fun was. Not diving on the
brakes and cutting between family cars. That's a sure
way of loosing traction and spinning.
I've raced on closed circuits (bike and car--domestically
and internationally) and auto-x-ed. I know my limits and agree
with you--others should know the same.
"Stupid is as stupid does."
Take care,
Warren
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 10:21:36 -0500
From: The Platypuss <[email protected]>
Subject: Prism Blue Paint
Message-ID: <#38>
Hello all! This past weekend I traded my black 95 Talon Tsi in for a
new 96 Tsi AWD. The stereo is different and has better bass and cranks
louder. They both have the cd/cassette.
Question:
It is some funky color called Prism Blue that I've never seen before.
It changes to some red color where bright light hits it, like there's
some red glitter hidden in it. In normal light its weird too, appearing
as a flat blue, but whether its a dark blue or a light blue, I can't
decide. (Basically I just can't describe this color. Any interior
decorators on the list? ;-)
Anyway, does anyone else have this color?
There is some weird design I've noticed on my hood that you can see if
the light hits it right. It sort of reminds me of the design on a
girafe. Whats up with that! Wondering if this is normal for this
weird paint.
Dealers:
Ya know, this car has been sitting on their lot for a couple of years
and had nearly 100 miles on it, yet it needed an alignment and the gas
tank recall work done. They screwed up the recall work yesterday so its
still in the shop. Wouldn't it be nice if dealers tested their cars
first and fixed any factory bugs before they sold them? You always hear
about the stuff dealers at Saturn or Lexus do to improve customer
service, but you never hear about them doing this. I think that this is
the best and most logical thing they could do for their customers.
I don't like spending all my money on a $25k car, then driving the
dealers Geo Prism the first week. Oh well, I did get a good deal and am
very happy about finally getting an AWD. When I get it back, it should
be past the 300 mile-break in period and I can start gettin busy!
P.S. I noticed in the back of the owners manual, that you can call and
order the shop manuals for it.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:17:45 -0600
Subject: {2g,t,AWD;all} hi flow cat part#?
Message-ID: <#39>
Hello car brothers and sisters,I was wondering if anybody knows the
Dynomax part number for the 2.5" Hi-Flow Cat that Extreme carries? On
the subject of Cat's; last Saturday a bunch of us watched Warren's 16G
Turbo install, and of course all the while we talked cars. Warren's friend
Vic started to tell me that a test pipe was better than a Hi Flow cat. I
replied that I wanted a cat to protect the enviroment. He then said that he
couldn't argue with me then. Later on Warren called me a tree hugger. So
<soapbox mode on>
(...Music in background..."This land is your land...")
We are constantly polluting our enviroment. Our air is becoming
poisonous to breathe. We are facing global warming. Steps must be
taken to prevent this, to protect the enviroment. We owe it to ourselves.
We owe it to those who come after us. Granted the really big polluters
are industry. But every little bit helps. It is better to light one candle than
to curse the darkness. I for one am willing to sacrifice a little extra money
and 1/4 mile time to help reduce pollution. I hope people think about these
things when they upgrade their exhaust systems. And please don't get
me wrong, I am not an Eco nazi, I believe in reasonable use of the
enviroment not overwhelming self sacrifice for it. I think a Hi flow
catalytic converter is a reasonable way to protect the air we breath.
<soapbox mode off>
So that's it for today. If somone knows those numbers please post or
RTP.
Stan
"How old is that tree son?" " I swear officer I only hugged it"
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:01:23 -0700
Subject: Stealth Cat
Message-ID: <#40>
Instead of trying to convince someone to build you an illegal device,
try a hole saw or hammer and chisel and clean the stuff out of the cat
you have. That will leave you with a nice, hot, empty shell.
Better yet, get in touch with one of those vendors you appealed to and
buy a legal hi-flow cat for street use and an exhaust cutout valve so
you can bypass it on the track.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:07:49 -0500
Subject: top this (clutch) -- reply
Message-ID: <#41>
I had ~145 K on my orig clutch before I needed a new one. I taught my GF
and my two sisters to drive a 5 spd on it. After the engine was broken
in I use to do 5 K launches all the time just to show off for my friends
in High School. At 100 K I started racing it on the track with a 16g and
all the other exhaust mods. Although it only ever ran a best of 13.22
all my friends and I were surprised the clutch even held up (according
to a lot of other people it wasn't suppose to). That car burned down
just this past summer in a race with a 944T. I had ~195k on the orig,
stock motor. (completely my fault -- at least now I know what happens
when the engine detonates and hot oil sprays all over the intake
manifold and the fuel line catches on fire...).
On the other hand my 93 tsi has eaten up its clutch only after 90 K. And
the CFDF on it now is about to go with a little less than 10 K on it. Of
course it has seen over 200 passes and a best of 12.5@111.
93 tsi thinking of going with an RPS clutch next.
Wil
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:47:31 -0500
Subject: Is this you?
Message-ID: <#43>
Yesterday 1/14, at about 6:30 PM, I pulled up next to a red 1G Talon at the
light just before the Southern State Pkwy on Peninsula Blvd northbound. As
I pulled up , I looked to see if it was AWD. I thought it wasn't so I
didn't pay any attention. And also the fact that the driver looked to be
"older"...No offense. We both had one car in front of us, but when the
light turned green I heard your turbo spool up and you went flying by me.
Only then did I see your two a-pillar mounted gauges and heard your BOV. I
passed you and slowed down but you got on to the SS pkwy westbound and I
continued north... Anyway...is this anyone on the list? [RTP]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:12:52 -0800
Subject: RE: 1g radio problem
Message-ID: <#44>
>The problem with FM reception is most likely
>antenna related. That would explain AM working
>properly and the tape deck working.
This is not necessarily true. In my case it was not antenna related at
all. Seems the problem described is fairly common on the 1g. To find out
if it is antenna related, try pressing one of the seek buttons when the
FM isn't working. Whenever I pushed seek it would immediately stop at
the next increment. If the problem is antenna related, it should
continually seek through the band until it finds a semi-strong signal.
After finally convincing the dealer that the problem was not antenna
related, they shipped it out to a 3rd party to have it repaired. Not
sure what they did but it works great now.
Ted Ruscha
'90 TSi FWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:18:46 -0500
Subject: Engine build up
Message-ID: <#45>
I am thinking that I want to build an engine for
my 93 AWD from the ground up. Probably starting
in a couple of months. I'd like to get a
complete 93-94 turbo engine, with pretty much
everything installed on it. All the pumps,
manifolds, TB, turbo everything. So I can
build it, and then drop it in. Any ideas where
I should look for an engine like that for a
good price?
Also wouldn't mind having a spare transmission as
well.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 14:15:11 -0500
Subject: 2G Eclipse GSX in the Rolex 24 Hour Race
Message-ID: <#47>
I don't remember anyone else mentioning this but I found out there is a 2G
GSX in the Rolex 24 Hour race at Daytona! Here is some information on the
car, and drivers from the SCCA web site:
09, GT3, Spirit of Daytona, Daytona Mitsubishi Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
Craig Conway, Daytona Beach, Fla.
Todd Flis, Daytona Beach, Fla.
Eric Van Cleeve, Huntsville, Ala.
Any of the drivers, or team members part of the list?
Any one have any information on the team? I would love to see how they
have the car setup.
I was able to find a partial photo of the #09 car:
http://www.scca.com/proracing/usrrc/daytona98/photos_testing/gt2_50_gt3_9.jp
g
So far their testing results are not that great... but what do you expect
from a 2G! <J/K> [double layered NOMEX FLAME proof underwear ON!] :)
Anyway, lets root them on! The race should be on ESPN, and ESPN2 this year.
Chad Gray
IRC: Cable
'91 Talon Tsi FWD
'91 Talon Tsi AWD
------------------------------
From bouncer Sat Jan 17 00:09:35 1998
for talon-digest-approved on Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:09:35 -0800
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
Today's Topics:
1) caan giberson
I want to upgrade my 93 awd
2) Devil Bat
Something from the Gateway Mustang Club site
3) scott miller
CyberNational Car Show/Todds Mods and Mustang Show
4) Brett.Dwyer
Upgraded Fuel Pump
5) Gulty222
Adding a Turbo on a Non Turbo?
6) Randall Morin
Wheels & Tires for GVR4
7) JimFoss
oxygenated fuels
8) Alexander S.
2G Aftermarket Alarm And GReddy Turbo Timer
9) T. Tate
Only 3 to Go.... PLEASE HELP!
10) ThomasS8
Timing belt damage, help needed
11) Tom Stangl
Walbro Pump purchase
12) Brett
Silver State Classic (open road race) Info
13) XAYASOUK 1
Vibration only during acceleration???
14) Blevins, William K ALL - Dealer Plug
15) gsxguru
MAS Screw
16) Thomas A Brady
New rotors and brakes
17) Rory Martin
Stealth cats and diesels
18) Arman Nikzad
[ALL] Stop complaining about our dealers
19) Paul Lyons
Better prices for parts
20) Gregg Horan
Re: 'Stealth' cat
21) Bill Shultz
Pressure
23) YIBUY4N
Silver 2nd Gen
24) Jim Schuster
Re: Todd Stands Up and Speaks
25) Shawn Murphy
Share Plus FCU in Dallas - 1GT Laser in parking lo
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
Stan Moskal
{2g,t} Hi flow cat question,radio question
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Amsoil vs Redline and BG
okazakik
Clutch life summary, conclusion
Dan Sides
engine stumbling
Robert S Verenna
Overheating & Fire [long]
Byers, Brian
Sarcasm Revisited (again)
Byers, Brian
Catalytic Converters
RICHARD HELM
RIX PIX on the Web, 97 Shoot-Out PIX CD's
Gabriel Iliadis
[All] M3's VANOS, Mitsu's MIVEC and "European Disp
Russell Chozick
Strange Idle 97 GS-T
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 stuck rotors
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Anti-Satan
Robert Deis
Confirming some stuffFarzaan Kassam
Price of a timing belt breakage.
Mung Bungholio
Finally got my Talon back
Jeff Brinkerhoff
My final word on stealth cats
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
Upcoming Events: (send new events to [email protected] in similar two-line
format)
July 10-12 - 7th Annual DiamondStar ShootOut
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:35:25 -0500
From: caan giberson <[email protected]>
Subject: I want to upgrade my 93 awd
Message-ID: <#1>
[RTP]
What are the ways I can upgrade my performance in my 93 AWD Tsi?
I have factory everything and the car has 100k miles on it.
what kinds of better turbos can I get?
what better fuel intake?
what better exhaust?
thanks.
caan ('93 Tsi AWD)
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:38:46 -0500
Devil Bat <[email protected]>
Subject: Something from the Gateway Mustang Club site
Message-ID: <#2>
I took this off the Know Your Compitition page of the Gateway Mustang Club:
http://g50mc.org/
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE GS-T AND GS-X, EAGLE TALON Tsi
Where did Mitsubishi come from, anyway? (Yes, Japan, but we don't mean
that!)
This little brat loves to give headaches to Mustang--you'd think they were
Zeros
or something (Mitsubishi built the Zero in World War II)--and the scary part is,
they just don't know when to quit, even when you've pulled them three or four
times. Like its bigger brothers, the smaller Mitsu is turbo'd, and many of
them have that damn adjustable boost regulator, often used in conjunction
with
bigger turbos, massive intercoolers, and a touch of nitrous, believe it or not.
The front-drivers are a little faster than the heavier four-wheel-driver version,
and once moving, they are a real terror. Like the big 3000 GT, the AWDs need
revs
and a drop clutch to get moving, much unlike our beloved Mustang (except for,
maybe, the two-valve GTs with 2.73s). One major strike against them is their
styling, a cross between an Abyssinian guinea pig and a partially-digested
jellybean.
Notes: Although these cars are often tweaked with tons of boost, the shifters
and
transmissions are not so tough and frequently balky. From a standing start, the
front-wheel-drive models are tricky to walk out with that boost kick (although
Mitsu has some of the best stock turbo systems in the business), and the AWDs
need to drop-clutch. Once moving, however, even the lightly-modified ones
really fly--we have personally seen one pull away from a 6-pound blown '93
Cobra (we won't say which car we were in).
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 16:23:33 -0600
From: scott miller <[email protected]>
Subject: CyberNational Car Show/Todds Mods and Mustang Showdown
Message-ID: <#3>
Hey everyone check out the link below for an Online Car Show my car (90
Talon AWD at the Golden Gate Bridge in SF) is in:
http://www.vci.net/~emenser/month.htm
I was the October 98 Winner (Thanks to many in the Mid West DSM Club)
Please check it out and vote for my car. I will have to admit that the
yellow Corvette (Sep winner) with the supercharger sticking out of the
hood looks mighty good, but I have a 66 SS Pro street Candy Apple Red
Nova, 406 cu in SBC, Tubbed and supercharged, that you can ride in (if
you come to New Mexico). It's hard to forget the smell of the
nitromethane additive along with the whine of the 6-71 Blower crusing
main street. Enough of that, anyway, I hope you like the Talon, vote and
get all your friends to vote for it, but please vote for your choice.
I mention this also to have the Digest members submit your cars starting
in Feb 98 and have our own Cyber Car Show winners each month. Lets make
it an all DSM show, besides my car was broke down at Dan's house (Dave
Buschur's Brother) at the 97 ShootOut last May. I didn't get to show my
car there at all. I received it back Sat night (8PM) (Crane Ignition
failure) and left Sunday morning at 4 AM to drive home.
Thanks to Todd for the Stage III Modified ECU. I had my first
opportunity to test it out on a new 4.6 L DOHC Mustang. I'm usually
pretty docile and do not usually get into any Drag Races. But this guy
kept revving his engine (and four people in the Stang laughing at my
little Talon( He He!). I had never tried the Stutterbox (clutch cut)
mod yet, but had it set for 5500 RPM. Usually I watch the Tach, the guy
I race, the red light, look for police and the watch the shift light,
which gets the adrenaline really going. Well, this time, I stand on the
throttle (what a sound - just listen to Tom S's sound and video clip),
watch the light and ignore the mustang next to me. The light turns
green, I'm outa here, the MSD Shift Light blinds me at 7000 RPM(in the
middle of the intersection), I shift into second and go to red line
again and look back. The mustang is still in the middle of the
intersection (smoking his tires) so I slow back down to the speed limit
(Wow what a rush) and wait for them to pass. The Mustang pulls up next
to me and I see four faces pressed up against their inside window,
mouths wide open (must have been the driver also). They gave me the
courtesy of not getting their front bumper passed my front tires as I
stayed at the speed limit. They gave me the thumbs up and turned off.
I bet the guys really harassed the owner of the new mustang( lack of
driving skills - and I bet he will think twice before he picks on our
cars) - RIGHT GUYS! (Des Moines area DSMs).
Anyway, look at my mods at:
http://www.rosemont.org/dsm/Owner/smiller.htm
and get Todds Mods - especially the stutterbox option - Surprised and
Scared the hell outa me!
[It still scares me - it is strange, I kinda get a head rush every time
I try launching that way. One thing - I found that if I completely
floor the stutter box, the car can bog right off the line. I think
this is due to the "accelerator pump" emulation that the ECU does.
I think when you slam a car like that, it needs an extra squirt or
two of gas to get the engine going. Problem is that if your foot
is on the floor and you engage the clutch, the ECU isn't going to
see any delta TPS, and therefore won't give an extra squirt.
Usually, I take the RPMs up until I hear the stutterbox kick in,
then launch normally from there. As usual, your mileage may vary.
I suspect different cars will act different ways. Also, the higher
you have the stutter set to, the less chance of bogging off the line.
Tom launches at 6000 and has no problems. I've launched at 4000 and
4500 will full throttle and have hit bogging problems occasionally.
Around 80% throttle to start, with a normal side slip launch, never
bogs.
BTW, the stutterbox was fully Tom Stangl's idea. I happened to be in
the Bay Area right after he thought of it. I wrote the code
and Tom and I figured out the wiring in just an hour or two
in the garage stall at his apartment. Aside from the wiring it
worked first time.
-talon mgr]
Please vote!
Scott Miller
90 Talon AWD (hope it holds together for the 98 ShootOut, see ya
there!)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:50:56 -0500
Subject: Upgraded Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <#4>
I have a question or two regarding an upgraded fuel pump. I have a 2G
GS-T with the stock turbo, 3" cat-back, Akimoto air filter, Upper IC
pipe, 1G BOV and Lower IC pipe. My VDO boost gauge reads a spike of
about 21 psi and hangs in the nieghborhood of 14 - 17 psi. I have been
reading and hearing about how it is bad or impossible to run more than
15 psi with the stock fuel pump. I don't think the gauge is incorrect.
I am curious if there is any serious harm that could be done if I
continue to run with this much boost on the stock fuel pump. Also, with
this setup and no plans to upgrade the turbo or injectors is it
worthwhile to put in the Walbro fuel pump? RTP ASAP so that if it looks
like I need the new pump I can order by monday. Thanks!
Brett Dwyer
96 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:13:24 EST
From: Gulty222 <[email protected]>
Subject: Adding a Turbo on a Non Turbo?
Message-ID: <#5>
hi all
[RTP]
I have a 96 gs eclipse and I was wondering if I can add a turbo to it any help
would be great.
thanks
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 15 Jan 1998 21:04:20 -0500
Subject: Wheels & Tires for GVR4
Message-ID: <#6>
Looks like the deal on my OZ Mito wheels and D40M2 tires fell through.
If there other GVR4 owners out there who want to upgrade to 16 inchers,
give me a ring.
Randall Morin
Hagerstown, MD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:19:37 EST
From: JimFoss <[email protected]>
Subject: oxygenated fuels
Message-ID: <#7>
>Do oxygenated fuels (MTBE and etc...) affect your O2 sensor readings?
>(I expect so...)...How? If they artificially increase the readings then adjusting
your
>mixture to .88 volts could lean things out too much, couldn't it?
>If they drop readings it might explain why my milage is so bad in the
>winter...
It depends on how you look at it. Oxygenated fuels contain (surprise) extra
oxygen. The extra oxygen means you have a leaner mixture for a given mass
of
fuel and air. The O2 sensor detects this leaner mixture as a lower voltage so
that the computer can correct it back to stoichiometric (under closed loop).
As long as you maintain the same voltage reading at the O2 sensor, you will
have the same fuel-air equivalence ratio (which is what you want), although
the mass ratio will change (which is why your mileage gets worse).
Jim Fossum
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:35:46 -0000
Subject: 2G Aftermarket Alarm And GReddy Turbo Timer
Message-ID: <#8>
Yaba-Daba-Doo Guys!
I was just wondering if anyone has an aftermarket alarm and turbo timer
working together? I have Code Alarm and GReddy Turbo Timer. I want to be
able
to arm the car, with the Turbo Timer counting down. Please Help!
X-t on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 23:08:25 -0500
Subject: Only 3 to Go.... PLEASE HELP!
Message-ID: <#9>
Well Folks I'm almost there but NOT QUITE!
If you don't know, I'm on a quest to obtain EVERY YEAR FOR our TALON,
ECLIPSE, and LASER, FACTORY BROCHURES and scan them so that they can
be
hosted as a Club DSM resource for all.
I am now only missing, due to the great response of the DIGEST members:
1994 Eclipse
1992 Laser
1994 Laser
Please, if you have one of these that you can loan me to scan in, drop
me an email. I will return it with a CD of all the TEL brochures for
your help.
Look for a post on the DIGEST when I get them all scanned and hosted.
I don't want to end up, "Close but no cigar!".
Tim Tate
'90 Eclipse GS [NT]
'93 Talon TSi [mine on 1/17/98]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 00:35:06 EST
Subject: Timing belt damage, help needed
Message-ID: <#10>
>BTW - I've always wondered - how much work do the heads usually need
>when the valves get bent?
I'm guessing it depends on what the RPM's and load is when it happens. In my
case it occurred during casual city driving. The pistons got a little ding in
them, nothing serious. I don't know if this screws up the finish on the
pistons or not. My valve guides were cracked and had to be replaced. Luckily
there was no damage to the heads themselves. The cause of this mess was
having
a Firestone shop replace the TB. I guess they didn't let it stretch and then
recheck the tensioner. They paid for the repair, which was done by a dealer.
To add pain to my ordeal, when my AWD was towed to the dealer, the rear
wheels
were left on the ground. During the tow, one of the rear wheels locked up and
damaged the drive train. Tow truck service paid for this- rebuilt rear diff,
new transaxle.
Hot Rod Magazine articleThis month HRM has a review of a 98 Talon AWD. The overall review is pretty
favorable- they especially liked the acceleration! It was surprising seeing
this recognition in a magazine that caters mostly to big cubic inch &
carbureted cars.
TuningI've read several times that the key to getting fast ET's is the right parts
and the right tuning. My question is, what do you tune? Until you get up to a
VPC/PMS level, what is there to tune? Even with a VPC, you have only 1 knob to
turn. Besides making sure the plugs/wires are good, new fuel filter, good
injectors, etc, what else is there to do?
I've been working on my car for over a car now, I have a VPC, 16G, 2.5"
exhaust, other stuff to match, and still can't even break into the 13's! I
know I'm not the best driver (2.0 sec 60' time), but even my trap speed is
low- around 94mph on 92 pump gas with a high-flow cat. With these parts I
should (hehheheh) be in the 12's at 105. Can I be _that bad_ of a driver?
Changing the VPC setting doesn't seem to make much difference.
Any advice _greatly_ appreciated.
TIA,
Tom Spargo
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 23:31:00 -0800
Subject: Walbro Pump purchase
Message-ID: <#11>
Eek, I may have mistated things, or people are taking it wrong - I don't
need PAYMENT by next Mon the 19th, I just need CONFIRMATION YOU WANT
ONE by
next Mon/Tues. I will then Email all people that have Emailed me so far,
verifying they want one, and by the end of the week, order them.
If you send a money order, you get your pump shipped as soon as I get them
in, unpacked, and individually packed. If you send a check, I really need
to wait for them to clear before shipping. Sorry, no credit cards, not set
up for it. If you don't send payment within a few weeks (barring people
that note a particular date ahead of time), I will just sell the pump to
the next person that wants one, as I can't afford to keep them around with
my repair bills trickling in.
If you have no idea what I am talking about, search the ARCHIVES for
"Walbro Purchase", you will see my posts from the last few days.
[Uhhh... usually, the index server search is behind the archives up
to 1.5 months. -talon mgr]
One last post to follow in the Mon Digest.
Tom Stangl
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 00:10:10 -0800
Subject: Silver State Classic (open road race) Info
Message-ID: <#12>
http://www.phenry.com/sscc/
GOOD LUCK, AND HOPE TO SEE YOU THERE!
Brett
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 05:10:15 EST
From: XAYASOUK 1 <[email protected]>
Subject: Vibration only during acceleration???
Message-ID: <#13>
Waas sup DSM family! I was just wondering if anybody out there has had this
problem before. My 1G FWD has developed this nasty vibration problem from
50mph and up. It seems to only happen if I give it a little gas during those
speeds regardless of what gear I'm in...3rd 4th or 5th. The tires are new and
balanced. I had two places check out the suspension(tie rods, ball joint,
etc.) which checked out fine. When it vibrates, my steering wheel and
driver's side door panel shake badly. One thing I know is that I need a new
CV joint because when I turn left and give it gas I can hear it grinding.
Could that also be causing the vibes @50mph when gassed? Someone told me
that
it is the inner CV joint. Can anyone help me out? I hate not being able to
drive any faster then 50mph on the freeway and get blown by by a Goe Metro.
Any one with some input please RTP ASAP! Thanks in advance
Sully
90 Red Laser RS turbo (The baddest looking, 2nd most modded DSM in Iowa)
-----------------------------Date:
Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:52:12 -0500
From: "Blevins, William K" <[email protected]>
Subject: ALL - Dealer Plug
Message-ID: <#14>
Just wanted to let everyone know that Tallahassee Mitsubishi has good
prices and GREAT service when it comes to ordering parts. Just ask for
John in parts AKA "Mitsu Johnny". 1-888-825-5648 or www.tallmits.com.
Ken Blevins
93' Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 06:57:29 -0600
Subject: MAS Screw
Message-ID: <#15>
Todd,
It is early morning here and I can't see to translate your statement:
"That screw calibrates the air flow to the pulse-train
frequency produced by the MAF. A separate pressure sensor accounts
for altitude differences."
What does this mean to me? If I back it out, what happens?
Thanks
Ken
'92 GSX
'92 GRV4
[The MAF has one sample tube and two or more bypass tubes. The MAF
only counts the air flowing through the sample tube. It is assumed
that the air flow in the sample tube is proportional to the total
flowing through all tubes. In other words, the MAF count is really
K times the total amount of air flow. The screw you refer to
actually blocks off a bit of one of the bypass tubes. The factory
flows a known amount of air through the MAF and adjusts the amount
of bypass air with that screw until sample tube is counting K times
the total amount of known airflow.
If you back out the screw, you are increasing the amount of bypass
air. You can also increase the amount of bypass air by removing
the honeycomb on the bypass tubes. This makes the MAF count a
smaller amount of air. Let's say, instead of K, it now counts 0.97K
of the air. Now the ECU will put out 3% less fuel than it used to
for a given amount of air.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:57:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: New rotors and brakes
Message-ID: <#16>
Well, I finally removed both rotors. Thanks to everyone for the
tips. I ended up almost flaring my hub with the 2 jaw puller and riping
the old rotor apart piece by piece with the puller. To finally remove it
I took a hammer to the rear of the rotor and banged forever. It came off
and now I have a question...
For an hour so far, the brakes have been stinking. I assume this
is normal for a while but strangely, one wheel is hot after driving and
the other is cold. Has this ever happened to anyone? Will the wheel
eventually cool down?
TIA
Tom
(1g 1990 GSX 90K miles)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:42:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Rory Martin <[email protected]>
Subject: Stealth cats and diesels
Message-ID: <#17>
>I *can* tell when I'm driving behind a
>car without a cat. Almost as enjoyable as following a
>Mercedes TurboDiesel. We all enjoy breathing your crap,
>thank you very much.
Todd, you may not have meant it this way, but there's a danger here that
you're helping to reinforce a common misconception about diesel engines.
Diesel engines produce =significantly= less emissions (CO and hydrocarbons)
than a petrol engine of equivalent HP. We're talking about an order of
magnitude (10x) less (and because of the decreased emissions of forced
induction engines, turbo diesels are cleaner still). However, they produce
far more soot, hence people view them as polluters. I just wanted to point
this out in case people were tempted to tar stealth cats and diesels with
the same brush.
[Yes, I know that turbos are less polluting, in general, in the long term.
However, their short term high particulate output is hard to swallow
when you are following them at three car lengths. I don't have this
problem with large trucks and most busses. I think those turbodiesel
cars should have to run with a 12 foot exhaust pipe pointing straight
up, just like the big rigs. I curse Daimler-Benz every time I get behind
one of those vehicles. Could never figure out why anyone would buy a
diesel luxobox... -talon mgr]
Rory
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 08:43:48 EST
From: [email protected] (Arman Nikzad)
Subject: [ALL] Stop complaining about our dealers
Message-ID: <#18>
Yeh, I thought this would catch Ur attention. Just
Kidding, I also susbcribe to Corrado list and thought
U might find this interesting (it's all true...)
I was recently at the D.C. auto show talking to car manufacturers about
this subject (VW was my last stop). I walk up to this guy, (some sort of
a rep, not a salesman) and politely tell him that I've heard this rumor
about VW going out and looking for people who've been racing, etc. His
response? "Sure. Do you know what these kids are doing? They're taking
their cars out and drag racing them and then blowing their transmissions
up.
>My friend bought a '97 GTI VR6 this past summer. He dragged it at Atco
>raceway (in south jersey) and on his 3rd run blew a hole in the differential.
>They pushed it off the track grounds and down the street a bit. Then he
>called for a tow truck. The car (with SIX THOUSAND MILES) was towed to the
>local VW dealer. The dealership asked the tow truck guy where the car was
>towed from. He said down the street from atco raceway. Then VW did some
>investigating and found that the car was racing that day and asked my
>friend to come tow his car or pay $4k for a new tranny, installed.
>To top it off, he found a C VR6 tranny and put it in himself. I am not
>100% sure but I think he said his whole warrantee is now void because he
>put in the tranny himself, and it is from a corrado.
>True story. Sad, but true.
They have also started taking pictures of VW at the start line, first
case reported
>I can confirm that VW reps go to local strips. I have a friend that went to
>Desoto (FL) with his 96 DE GTI (2000 miles), and blew the differential on his
>2nd run!
>He had the car towed to the local dealer to have the tranny replaced. After a
>day or so the dealer called and said they would not warranty the tranny b/c of
>the AVO adj suspension. My friend said prove it. So then the dealer said the
>car was abused. ie racing. Well my friend did not know the regional VW rep
>goes to the track with a camera and takes pictures of the VW's! They (the
>dealer) had a picture of his car at the start line.
FYI.
Arman
95 Talon AWD.
[It isn't surprising that the dealers are resorting to such measures.
All warranties have clauses in them concerning abuse. I don't blame
them for trying to make sure they aren't getting ripped off... They
are not selling race cars, after all.
... except ...
... EXCEPT ...
VW markets their cars with the slogan, "Drivers Wanted". They show
their cars in fast paced commercials. They promote their cars as
"fun to drive". Welllll.... personally, I think the FTC should
force them to change their ads to plainly state, "Drivers Wanted,
Unless You Try To Make A Warrantee Claim. Mostly, We Want People
Who Keep Their Car Garaged Most Of The Time Until The Warranty Is
Up." Maybe, "Drivers Wanted / Our Dealers Also Sell Porsches".
Or "Drivers Wanted / Free Pictures Of Your Car Launching At The
Track". Or at least, "Drivers Wanted / Warranty Void".
It would only be fair. After all, VW means Void Warranty.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:32:57 -0600
Subject: Better prices for parts
Message-ID: <#19>
Hello Again
This the last shameless plug I will do.
My parts guy has given me such good discounts
I feel compelled to help out after seeing posts
like this one. This is not to knock other dealers
but just like a doctor...get a second opinion for good measure.
>I would like to plug Tallahassee Mitsubishi for the excellent
>service and prices that I have received. John at Tallahassee has been
>extremely receptive and patient. This is his info (1-888-tall-mit)
>
>M-F 8:00am to 5:30pm EST. Just ask for John! OR
>WWW.WORLDPARTS.COM/TALLMITS.
Do yourself a favor and get multiple quotes.
I priced an ISC motor from Talahassee and somebody else on worldparts.
My quotes were 221 adn 246 respectively. Scott Trumbo at Norman Mitusu
gave me 208$.
Anyhoo he's on the vendors page now. Hope this helps somebody.
BTW I do not work for Norman mitsu. But...after all my trips to see
Scott he is looking for a 1g AWD himself. BOOST IT!
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
ICQ 4826460
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:52:49 -0500
From: Gregg Horan <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: 'Stealth' cat
Message-ID: <#20>
>Can you pass emissions testing without a cat with our cars? How much does
>an aftermarket cat block flow as compared to a test pipe?
>What's the fine if you are caught driving without a cat on your car?
I've heard, (not tried) that, at least in CT, the emmisions that are
measured are not really affected by the cat, so you actually would
pass. I know they only do a visual on it here. I'd be willing to
bet that the difference between a Regular and Hi-Flow cat, is LESS
that the difference between a Hi-Flow and a Test Pipe. (in other words
a test pipe is WAYYY better.).
Oh, and I think it's a federal thing, but I'm sure that at least in
CT it is a $2500 fine for no cat. Eww. I always make sure to put
it in neutral when passing a cop... don't get the engine-brake
rumble that way...
p.s. I have a "friend" who found out that the stock heat sheild
comes off quite easily with a dremel, and for $20 he had a
a guy at a muffler shop weld it onto a 2.5" test pipe. Fit
awesome.
Gregg Horan
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:57:33 -0500
Subject: Pressure
Message-ID: <#21>
Don't forget to take into conderation the difference between psig and psia.
I forget which is which off-hand, but one is an absolute value (the P in
the formula [psia?]), and the other is a relative number (usually wrt
ambient).
>Let's say you
>run 22psi at a track at sea level. You can't just go running 27.5psi
>in New Mexico and assume that everything will be okay.
Yep! I'm guessing that the boost reading is a relative #, and the same
rules apply at all altitudes (at least as far as blowing gaskets go).
Talk to y'all later
Bill
90 GSX
P.S. Hey Frank, I know where the fargin' gas pedal is. ;^) My 130K+
clutch holds enough for a 4-wheel chirp in 3rd! How's your's doin?
heh-heh! :)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:59:03 EST
From: YIBUY4N <[email protected]>
Subject: Silver 2nd Gen
Message-ID: <#23>
Hey All,
If you live in San Antonio read on. I ran into a Silver 2nd Gen Eclipse with a
GReddy Exhaust and a *serious* dent on the passenger side of the car and blue
city lights. We got into a tangle on 1604 Heading towards live Oak on Tues.
Night and I dialed in some fuel on ya, (Sorry bout the fuel smoke...but no cat
you understand.) -I mean the car "PUFFED UGLY"- I just saw that huge ball of
crap smack your headlights!
YIBUY4N
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 09:21:39 -0500
From: Jim Schuster <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Todd Stands Up and Speaks
Message-ID: <#24>
Good Rag Todd. Your well thought out, and pithily put, comments deserve
consideration. I believe as list mgr you have the right to not
reproduce stealth cat posts. Now, how about a race between a Hi-Flo Cat
and a no cat? I am talking about the track, not the street.
Jim Schuster
[Well, I have no illusions about CAT/NO-CAT power. I'm pretty sure the
NO-CAT would win. Except, maybe those new 4" Cats on a 3" exhaust
system might do the trick. The experiment sure would be fun.
(BTW, if you are running race fuel at the track, you should really
remove your cat. Lead can poison a cat. Also would be a good idea
to use a separate O2 sensor for racing fuel only. Lead can kill
them early, too.)
As far as censoring posts on stealth cats... I would rather provide
balance and try to sway those people who are not really hard core
racers and probably do not benefit all that much from not having a
cat anyway. Hard core racers will pretty much ignore me anyway.
As long as I'm here...
I hope I haven't given the impression that I'm a lackey for the EPA
or CARB. These two organizations, while well intentioned, are primarily
politcally motivated. They are not really too concerned with logic
in a lot of their decisions. And don't think that I'm a hypocrite
just because I have a lot of non-CARB equipment on my car (3" downpipe,
20G, front mount, 550 inj, 95 MAF, modified ECU, etc, etc). Just
because it is not CARB approved does not mean it is making more smog.
In fact, I would posit that I am making less smog, as my MPG has
increased by about 3 since making these mods. And judging by the
way CARB lets really crazy stuff past as long as the expensive testing
is paid for (rising rate fuel pressure regulators, etc, just see any
recent Turbo mag), I'm certain that everything on my car could stand
up to the most rigorous smog testing.
I still carry all the smog equipment because all of it makes sense.
1) CAT - Well, we've been through this.
2) EGR - Better mileage at crusing speeds. Hey, I enjoy saving money!
Save that premium fuel for when I really need it.
3) PCV - Stock routing of crankcase gases back into intake for
further burning. Nasty stuff to release into the air!
So what if I have to clean out my intake system every 50k?
4) EVAP - The charcoal cannister helps prevent the release of raw
hydrocarbons from the fuel system. Returns the fuel vapors
back into the intake during cruise. All gas stations in CA have
a similar return system for eating the HC vapor during fueling.
I don't understand why all states do not require this on
their gas stations. I don't need to be breathing vapors from
that cancer causing MTBE crap they put in the gas nowadays.
The above four items have a lot of science and a lot of actual use
behind them that prove that they work. And yet, people dream of
living in a smog control free world. Well, let me tell 'ya, you
DO NOT want to live there. Europe has never been as strict as we
are here because they don't rely on cars as much. But sitting in
traffic in the beltway around Paris, I just about died breathing
that crap in. I couldn't understand how anyone could put up with
it. I felt like puking. I'd never been in localized smog so bad,
even on a bad day in LA. Other places without strict smog controls
like Eastern Europe and Southern Asia are no picnic, either.
Be happy that we are so "progressive" in our smog control out here
in California. After all, our smog blows clear across the country,
to a neighborhood near you.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:33:11 -0600
Subject: Share Plus FCU in Dallas - 1GT Laser in parking lot
Message-ID: <#25>
Share Plus Federal Credit Union on the corner of Preston and Frankford in
Dallas. You back your red 1G (T?) Laser in the first parking spot by the
door close to the street and you have five spoke aftermarket wheels. Are
you on the digest? Nice car. I pass your building every day on the way to
work and was just curious.
Shawn Murphy
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:57:15 -0600
Subject: {2g,t} Hi flow cat question,radio question
Message-ID: <#26>
Well it isn't easy being green. In my search for the most cost effective 2
1/2" Hi flow cat, I'm coming up with more question's than answers. I
called Dynomax and also one of their division's Products for Power. It
seems that Dynomax doesn't sell a direct replacement for our cars. They
have a universal, but it requires the addition of flanging. The Products for
Power guy told me that the EPA hasn't approved anybody's aftermarket
cats for OBD II. He claimed that putting a Hi flow cat on an OBD II car will
cause the check engine light to come on. I don't think this is right, as my
understanding is that the ECU reads the difference between the 2 O2
sensors. My cat questions are: 1) Does our cat have an airline going to
it?(haven/t been under there lately) 2) Have any 2ger's running Hi flow
cats seen a check engine light?
[I thought that air-line was a thing of old cars, like in the days of
the "smog-pump". The air-line was there to provide more oxygen so the
catalyst could do its job better. The 1G doesn't have one, and I
don't see why the 2G would (but hey, OBDII is pretty crazy). It may
be true that no aftermarket cat has approval for OBDII, but that
doesn't mean that one wouldn't work. I'm pretty certain that any
cat that is certified for 1G use would work on a 2G. Just an
educated guess, though. -talon mgr]
My radio question is as follows: What type of Dolby should I record my
tapes in? Or stated a different way: What kind of Dolby does my car
have? I have the 2g Tsi stock 6 speaker system w/o the equalizer. I think
my choices are Dolby B and C on my home tape deck(I'm at work now).
TIA
Stan
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 9:38:51 -0600
Subject: Amsoil vs Redline and BG
Message-ID: <#27>
Michael
>Anyone have any stats on Redline and BG Syncroshift? I'd like to
>compare it to the Amsoil Series 2000.
Ignore the stats. Moble 1 has one of the best synthetic oils on the market
but it is crap in our transmissions.
What seems to be importain in our transmissions is how the oil affects
syncro operation. This is something a stats sheet cant tell you. BG and Red
Line just work good. Their products seems to fix week syncros.
The only way you can prove your product is get it out to a number of people
and get their feed back.
Victor
95 Talon TSI
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 7:54:51 -0800
Subject: Clutch life summary, conclusion
Message-ID: <#28>
Here's a quick summary of the people that posted about their
original stock clutch life: (a "+" after the mileage means that it is
still goin')
David Scott: 120K+, '90 AWD
Vineet Singh: 140K+, '90 AWD
Kevin Sommer: 139K+, '91 AWD
Ken Okazaki: 110K+, 90 AWD
John Coggi: 151K, sold., '90
Wil 145K, '90? (Has a '93 now which ate it up in 90K)
Conclusion? ... Pop-up headlights make your clutch last
longer. [1990 and 1991 had pop-up headlights for those of you
that didn't know]
Seriously though, it does appear that 1990 was the most
"bulletproof" year for some reason. Although it makes sense
that the oldest cars will likely be the only ones driven enough to
get 100K+ miles on them (I.e. 1990, 1991), other years seem to
be having more problems. Just an observation, not a flame.
Ken
90 Tsi AWD, "Speed Racer" (This is what my wife calls my car,
so I guess it will be my "handle" from now on).
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:57:46 PST
From: "Dan Sides" <[email protected]>
Subject: engine stumbling
Message-ID: <#29>
OK folks...
Got my car back from the body shop last night.
Long story short: They (the body shop mechanic)
put on a new head. There was almost no bottom end
pwr. They fixed the cam timing, and that that helped
a lot. Here is the problem now:
~Over about 1/3 throttle, the powere seems to be all there
with no hesitation (I.e. runs perfectly). However, under 1/3
throttle and at idle, there is a LOT of stumbling in the engine.
~I can smell a lot of exhaust when the car is stopped and the
vents are not set on recirculation. I.e. I am breathing
external air.
~Car is drinking a LOT of gas. Used about 1/8 of a tank in
about 20 miles!
~"Check Engine" light will come on every once in a while
for a few seconds.
Any way, I took possession of the car to take it to a
real mechanic (body shop/State Farm) still paying.
I just wanted to get some feedback from folks on the list.
What do you guys think? Electronic timing? Plugs?
Any ideas?
Dan
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:06:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert S Verenna <[email protected]>
Subject: Overheating & Fire [long]
Message-ID: <#30>
[I'm letting this one go through because it is a good lesson.
Just pretend the car is a DSM. -talon mgr]
Saw a mention in the last digest of someone's TSI burning up in a race
with a 944T and it reminded me of a current battle I'm involved in. Any
help anyone can give is greatly appreciated.
Before I got my Laser RS AWD a month ago, I had the older cousin - the
Conquest TSI. I was out of town (visiting parents for the weekend) when
the car started to mysteriously overheat and I noticed my fans weren't
coming on anymore. As it was Sunday, and I was without tools and a
place to work on it, I ended up staying an extra day (and missing
classes) to take it to the local Chrylser dealer. They looked at it and
said my fan sensors were bad. Ok, fine. Minimum two days to get the
parts. Bad - couldn't miss more class and my gf was with me who was
also missing classes. I asked them to wire the fans on so they would
run all the time and also explicitly asked if that would be safe to get
me home (Philly area to Pittsburgh). They said sure, no problem. For
this (exam + a little wiring) they charged me for 1.5 hours of work.
Drove home (less than a mile) and the car was already back in the red.
Called them immediately. They told me to ignore it (!) and that the
sensors that were bad were giving that bad data to the temp gauge.
Here's where I admit I f-ed up - I listened to them. :(
[Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the failure
mode of most temperature sensors to read low, not high? I guess
this would depend on whether the device is a thermocouple or is
resistive based. Anyone know? -talon mgr]
So my gf and I headed straight down the PA turnpike toward Pittsburgh.
About halfway back, the engine gives a loud bang and white smoke pours
out from under the hood. I pull over from the left lane and get out to
check. When I open the hood, there's fire all along the back of the
engine compartment. I call for help on the cell phone, and truckers are
stopping to help, but by the time the emergency crews get there, it's
too late. The car was totaled out by the engine fire. :(
The worst part is, I only had my legally required minimum insurance,
which doesn't cover that sort of thing. We had to rent a U-Haul truck
to make it home from the middle of nowhere where this happened.
Luckily, no one was hurt and nothing we were carrying was destroyed.
However, as a then-student (and barely more than that now) it was a
serious hit to the wallet.
Now, I admit it was stupid to listen to the dealership, but
circumstances were against me - we really had to get back to Pittsburgh.
The fire guy at the scene was able to point out to me that the fire
started right about where they would have run the wire across the back
on the radiator. Unfortunately, that didn't get into the police report,
nor did anything involving the cause of the fire. Because of this, the
dealership is unwilling to pay for their mistake. They actually told me
that overheating was unrelated to the fire - that you needed a spark to
start the fire. I believe this to be quite false - can't oil residue on
the engine flash and catch fire, especially at extreme temperatures?
All I need is some proof like this and even if their wiring started the
fire (my guess) they can't say that overheating can't start a fire and
they will hopefully offer me something without a court battle.
As I said, I am partly to blame - I listened to the dealership and
actually let them work on my car. But, what would have happened if
someone had gotten hurt in the fire/explosion? I admit I'm not a car
expert (obviously :| ) but I at least have a couple of clueful moments
every now and again, what would have happened to the dealership if this
had happened to a family in a minivan, or someone with the money and
time to actually fight them out?
This is complicated by the fact that my sister's friend's parents own
the dealership (that's how I got in so quick Monday). But, I know they
aren't really affected by it - it will be the dealership that gets sued,
and even so it's not gonna kill them, all said I'd be very happy with
$4k. Also, in the I shoulda known department - I almost bought an
Eclipse from them a year ago. When they went to test drive my Camaro,
they broke the shift linkage [on purpose, to strand me there]. My
father had to call and complain like the dickens to get them to fix it.
So they really are a bunch of sleazeballs, through and through.
Todd, I realize the little DSM content of the message but hey, this
accident did finally allow me to buy one. ;) And I could really, really
use the advice of those on the list as I really need to fight this one
out with the dealership but don't have anywhere else to really go. If I
have to sue them (which I will if it's all that's left), then I have to
go back home to do it, and the lawyer I spoke with recommended small
claims court by myself since after legal fees of a real lawyer, it'd be
a moral victory but I wouldn't have any money awarded left. :)
So please RTP if you have any information which might help; I'd greatly
appreciate it. Thanks for the bandwidth!
~ Rob
92 Laser RS AWD
89 Conquest TSI - R.I.P.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:24:07 -0600
Subject: Sarcasm Revisited (again)
Message-ID: <#31>
>Hank,
>For someone who's life revolves around talking so much trash on the IRC, you
>are the biggest hypocrit I've ever seen.
What is up with this action anyways...Hank is always try to start some
$h!t in the irc channel. Hank, you need to chill out and people will
leave you alone. You talk and post and make web sites about the damn
horse, so you leave everyone no choice but to have a little fun. BTW:
Did you choose the V6 Camaro over the V6 "Mustang" because of that
horse? Personally, I think you should car pool with the dude doing 130
in lunch traffic.
C. Brian Byers
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:29:14 -0600
Subject: Catalytic Converters
Message-ID: <#32>
If you are going to run emissions illegal, install the test pipe and do
not worry about "stealthing" it and deal with the consequences if need
be. If you want a cat, get a cat. Install your preference, be subtle
about it, stay out of WOT around cops, 'cause like talon mgr said, I can
tell when a car isn't running a cat either. Its all about your
priorities in life. Me...I pay too much in taxes, so I use that excuse
to make myself feel better. Talon mgr, you threw some serious guilt
trip action on us...it almost drove me to the point of getting the
wrenches out and re-installing the cat. DOH!
C. Brian Byers
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:34:20 -0600
From: "RICHARD HELM" <[email protected]>
Subject: RIX PIX on the Web, 97 Shoot-Out PIX CD's
Message-ID: <#33>
I am happy to announce that my 97 Shoot-Out Pix have finally made it to the
Web. Jon Roberts has been good enough to sponsor them on his site. The
address is www.whiterose.net/dsm
I hope all of you enjoy these shots of
our cars in action.
I also still have the PIX CD's available for $12/shipped, for those of you
that may sitll want "hard" copies of the PIX. These contain shots from the
97 Shoot-Out in Ohio, the Mitsu Plant Tour, and the Mid-West Shoot-Out held
in Noble, Ok this past October. There are over 20 meg of pics that were shot
at these events on each disk. If you would like a copy, email me.
richard
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:47:01 -0500
From: "Gabriel Iliadis" <[email protected]>
Subject: [All] M3's VANOS, Mitsu's MIVEC and "European Displacement"
Message-ID: <#34>
>If MIVEC is anything like the VANOS system on the M3 engine I now have in
>my garage :-( it will be impossible to adapt it to the previous gens'
>heads. If you want to retrofit your earlier generation car with MIVEC,
>you'll have to stick with whatever head Mitsu puts on the 3Gs.
I do not know if you are referring to a previous M3, but the last
generation M3 is imported without the Variable Valve Timing (coded as VANOS
by BMW) head in the US. That is why the European M3 is putting out 321 hp
DIN (note: more than 100 horses per liter by a N.A. engine) and the US
"only" 240 Bhp.
BMW officials when asked why that happened, they answered that the car
would simply be too expensive for the category and the target market it is
indented to appeal to. They estimated the VANOS equipped M3 would average
around $50,000 (currently starts at around $41,000).
It makes sense to me...
[This 1995 indeed has a VANOS. It is not continuously variable, like
the EuroSpec version, though. It feels like a mini-turbo when it kicks
in, and you can see the hump on a dyno output chart. The EuroSpec is
also an aluminum block with a bunch of other tricks, for the extra-HP.
Thankfully, I didn't blow up *THAT* block, or I'd have to start moderating
another list, just to get more donations! -talon mgr]
Gabriel Iliadis
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:48:59 -0600
From: "Russell Chozick" <[email protected]>
Subject: Strange Idle 97 GS-T
Message-ID: <#35>
I have really noticed a big jump around in RPM's when my car is at idle. It
will jump anywhere from 500-900 RMP. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix
this
problem. My current mods are:
3" Thermal Research & Development Catback
2.25" Upper IC with Pre-95 BOV
BOV Tube Restrictor Removed
NGK Plugs
Magnecore Wires
VDO 0-30psi Boost Gauge
Hallman Racing Boost Controller set at about 16-17 psi
please RTP or post to digest if you think everyone will benefit from this fix.
Thanks
~Russell Chozick
`97 GS-T
http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~lived Click on "My Car" for pics of my car
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:49:05 -0600
Subject: stuck rotors
Message-ID: <#36>
Tom
>I spent FOUR hours trying to remove one of mine, and cracked
>it in the process.
Have you ever notice the threaded holes in the rotor cap. Just put in two
bolts and tighten. The rotor should pop off with a little tapping.
On very rusted ones once you hit the torque limit of the bolts stop. Heat
the rim of the rotor hat with a blow torch and it will pop of in a few
minutes. I found anti seize does not work for me probably since I exceed
the termperature limit when I race.
PS: How was you wheel bearing after 4 hours of pounding
Victor
95 talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:55:38 -0600
Subject: Anti-Satan
Message-ID: <#37>
I think I found a good Eagle dealer. "Younge & 7 Chrysler" in Toronto
My car was in the shop for the last month to replace the engine block due to
a spun bearing. (It took this long since the problem happen just before
Christmas)
When I got the work order back I got a few surprises.
1 The hydraulic lifters were replaced. The mechanic said they were ticking.
(I thought ticking was normal)
2. No charge to fix my cold start whine. (I asked them to replace the
specfic timing belt bearing when they had the engine apart and I would pay
for the part.) Previously I could not convince Chrysler to fix this since it
would normally only last less then a minute.
3 CV boot strap repaired. (I knew about the minor leak but was surprised
they were observant enough to catch this with out me pointing it out.
4. New air filter they saw the old one was covered with oil and replaced it
with a new one. (Too bad the old one was a K&N)
While they were in there they replaced the clutch with a DFCF which I
supplied.
Basically I got a new engine and clutch changed for the cost of a K&N filter.
Extended warranty is nice.
Victor
95 Talon TSi (98 Engine)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 10:37:45 -0700
Subject: Confirming some stuffMessage-ID: <#38>
These are for clarification and the archives- please correct me if I'm
wrong.
Fuel Cut Lean ConditionSo if I understand this right, you can't lean out the engine as long
as fuel cut is enabled, because the ECU knows how much air the stock
fuel system can keep up with and will fuel cut if you are in danger of
exceeding that amount?
[No - the ECU will try to supply the correct amount of fuel, but it
only has control over the injectors. It does not have control over
the fuel pump or the fuel regulator, nor does it know what the fuel
pressure in the rail is. If the pump or regulator fail, or the
fuel filter is clogged, pressure in the rail will drop without the
ECU's knowledge. Now the amount of fuel entering the engine will
be less than what the ECU expects. This could result in torched
pistons and valves. -talon mgr]
Boost and AltitudeYou can run more boost at altitude without danger of leaning out
(roughly 25% per 7500 ft.) but the danger of blowing a gasket due to
excessive pressure remains the same. (What's a dangerous pressure level
there?) Also, since the charge air must be pressurized more if you turn
the boost up, the temperature is increased more, so the danger of
pre-detonation is increased.
[Pressure is pressure, for the most part. Xpsi of air in the cylinder
is going to blow a gasket at altitude or at sea level. -talon mgr]
(Soapbox mode on)
Little envoronmental pointJust cause you don't pay a fine don't make it right.
If you can afford $600+ for a new turbo, you can afford >$300 for a
fast cat for street use. Show a little class.
Icepicks indeed... )-:
(end o' soapbox)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 09:45:45 -0800
Subject: Price of a timing belt breakage.
Message-ID: <#39>
>head machined and replaced all of the valves, guides and seals. With parts
>and labor for everything it's going to come to about $960.00.
I thought you guys would fine this humorous. The timing belt/balance shaft
belt system on the 944T is similar to the DSM's (it's licenses from Mitsu).
So, we have similar breakage problems over in that camp. The only difference
is the cost of repair.
I called up my local dealer to find out how much it would cost to replace
the valves, get new pistons and piston rings. The 944 engine uses a coating
called Nikasil in the cylinders. There are few places that can re-coat once
the coating has been damaged by broken rings or coolant flowing down the
cylinder as the piston ring passes over it. The total cost to fix a timing
belt disaster including pistons is C$7800.
Food for thought . . .
Farzaan.
1989 Porsche 944 Turbo
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:30:13 -0500
Subject: Finally got my Talon back
Message-ID: <#40>
Well I got my Talon back today after the T-belt ate my head. It seems to
be running ok but the exhaust is a little louder than it was (maybe the
exhaust manifold needs to be re torqued?). Also about 15 min after I left
the shop my check engine light came on solid. I called and asked what it
might be and they said sounds like one of the sensors has a loose wire.
Anybody have any idea which one it could be? Todd you are the master of
ECU's any idea? The total price on the work ended up being $992.00 by the
time I was done with everything. Just a suggestion to anyone who is
getting their T-belt replaced. Make sure the shop that is doing the work
has the TSB for the T-belt replacement. If they don't then they won't know
how to reset the tensioner and you will be in the same boat I was. It only
took 3000 mi for the belt to die!
[If you have a 1G, use the shop manual to clock that code out.
That is really the only way to diagnose these CE problems. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:41:20 -0500
Subject: My final word on stealth cats
Message-ID: <#41>
Dear digest:
I feel as though I should reply to the issue of the 'stealth cat', since I
was the one who started the most recent thread by asking if anyone had done
it, and how they did it. Although I know Todd's response wasn't only
directed at me, I would like the chance to respond.
I did not start the thread with the intention of beginning a political or
philosophical argument. It was simply an idea I had, and apparently a whole
lot of you have had it too based on the responses I have gotten. For the
record: it's a bad idea. I now agree. I will not be pursuing it any further,
on the digest or off. Once again the voice of reason has brought me to my
senses. (no scarasm implied)
I know some don't want to hear this, However even though I no longer
advocate cat removal, I do take issue with the attitude that it is any worse
than a plain testpipe, or 3" exhaust with no provision at all for a cat.
Yes, these are 'off road' products, but there are a lot of people running
around the streets with them installed every day. I'm not saying it's right,
just that it happens. Alot. It's illegal, just like road racing is illegal.
Concencious or not - braking the speed limit is a crime. Taking your road
race to a reasonably deserted road is better, but no more legal. (here come
the flames-but please finish reading first) I don't think it is cowardly to
make a stealth cat, but it is wrong. I was wrong to suggest it, and I admit
it. Damn my inventive little mind. ;-)
I'm NOT advocating killing the environment, at least not anymore, and to be
really honest I never really thought about the overall consequences until
Todd's post. Call me a panzy treehugger if you will, but I will not put a
testpipe on my car now. Not because the butterfies and birds by the side of
the road might die of CO poisoning, but because I don't want to contribute
to NY being the next state to institute California's smog rules. I recycle
my newspapers (and damn near everything else), I'm opposed to logging old
growth forest, and I think pollution of the oceans and overfishing are a
major problem, so I suppose it is pretty hypocritical of me to pull the
converter off my car for a big gain of 0.1sec when I only go to the track a
couple times a year. Pretty stupid indeed.
My car currently has a catalytic converter, as does my truck and every other
vehicle I have owned except a 65 moostang. I will agree that removing the
cat is bad for the environment. But that is not going to stop people from
doing it. Perhaps the only way to do that is to change people's attitudes,
and I, for one, have changed mine. Todd, I gotta hand it to you - at least
you call èm like you see èm.
I'm gonna look into a big a$$ high-flow cat (cool mental image :-)), and
some stainless bolts incase I do want to pull it off at the track. (Thanks
Ian for that idea) Todd, I think maybe you changed a few minds - for real.
The crack about this not really fitting our motto helped too...
The digest still rules!
Jeff Brinkerhoff
91TSi, with converter.
Nothing broke this month...
PS: Any experiences/reccomendations of good high-flow cats? [RTP]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
[I'm pretty certain that 90 messages is a record. Seems
like my cat rant stirred the pot a bit.
Not sure if that many of you are aware of it, but there was an
award for Club DSM Member of the Year for 1996. For all of his
great VFAQ work, Tom Stangl won. The award was presented at
last year's ShootOut.
I would really like to start up some official club awards, to
be given yearly at the same event. I broached this idea with
the people who run the regional web sites, and got a good
response to it.
What I want from you is ideas for categories. They don't
need to stick to only club members, but I would like to
concentrate on the membership. They should be things that
can be judged without having to actually travel 2000 miles
to see a car. Other ideas are "product of the year" to go
to some DSM product manufacturer.
After the categories are designated, I was thinking of
running two votes. The top three nominees for each category
will move on to the second round of voting. This will
prevent winning on a minority of the votes in a category
with many nominees.
Please send all category ideas to [email protected] with
"DSM category" somewhere in the subject line. Don't post
category suggestions to the Digest, although I encourage
a discussion of these awards there.
If you are a manufacturer and would like to "sponsor" an
award with a real prize, or if you think you can get a
manufacturer to sponsor a prize, please let me know.
-talon mgr]
Today's Topics:
1) David Scott
Sticky antenna.
2) Kevin Sommer
Hostility Festival
3) Shawn Jewett
Personal choices
4) Allen
[1g, T] To cat or not to cat...
5) karlt
Tires and lowering.
7) Snakeyes2
GVR4 roughing up the Bimmers
8) Sean
Hallman b/c,hoses, and timing [1g,t,awd]
9) Brady Berry
[1G,T] 1991 Eagle Talon Tsi For Sale
10) Lorrin Barth
Front toe adjustment
11) Tim Cade
ILLEGAL Cat conversions
12)
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
42)
43)
44)
45)
46)
47)
48)
49)
50)
51)
52)
53)
mnkvosen
MAS screw - muffler
Michael
[1G] Radio
Importpwr
Parts for sale!!
Michel Lavallee
Re: Talon's Demise, what happens in Canada..
Rolan Somerville
Venting
Ashok N Babu
Parting out '91 TSi FWD!!!
Vel N.
Re: Todd's Rant on cats
RUFRIDR
IRC Sarcasm
Ray Johns
PMS EFI
Bill Shultz
stealth cats
Bobby B
DaveB & IC Pipe
mciveron
Chrysler lemon law case update (ALL)
DDynopower
Cat converters
John Q. Tran
Re: 2G Aftermarket Alarm And GReddy Turbo Timer
Dave Flaherty
Daytona Rolex 24 Hour
Shawn Jewett
Parts at discount pricing
David Planton
HIGH revs, sightings
Tome
Re: VW warranty and steering
Paul Lyons
antiseize
Michael
Re: MAS Screw
Michael Breslin
BG SynchroShift
Spencer Hutchings Check Engine Codes Cats etc.
Noah Hansen
JT&T SpiralMax Turbo Air Twister
tdriscol
cat con sugg.
Chad Merritt
Power loss saga Part II
Bobby B
Race Car Insurance
Tom Tennant
Re: fog light mod
Chris Holmes
suspensions for 1g's
caan giberson
I am creating a collage of everyones eagles!!
Kmn911
Loud ticking? end of engine in sight?
MIturbo
Buscher helps out
Mike Richman
Cheap thrills
Russ George
[1G] DPR Eclpise | Front Fascia |
ira
2gt and Hi Flpw Cats
manuel gonzalez
Home Dyno 2.1a Evaluation.
Christopher J. Heim smog, tranny oil other ramblings [1G, T]
Mike Roy
Newbe with stupid questions
The4Bangr
VPC and fastest 16G times
The4Bangr
Japan and wrong information
Mark Purney
2G T USE A CAT and sleep better at night, 3" T
John Q. Tran
Car Clubs/Crew in Cleveland?
54)
55)
56)
57)
58)
59)
60)
61)
62)
63)
64)
65)
66)
67)
68)
69)
70)
71)
72)
73)
74)
75)
76)
77)
78)
79)
80)
81)
82)
83)
84)
85)
86)
87)
88)
89)
90)
Boylondon
[2g NT] underdrive pulleys
Phil Beers
'97 DSM Shootout video
Mr.Moo
Alternative to the Trader
Don
Galant VR4 For Sale
Bradley H. Lamont [2G] 95 cd changer in 98, and 98 ABS
Fred Jin
Wheel bearings?
John Q. Tran
2G Clear Taillight Covers?
miSter eCL1pSE JaY J BLOWN TRANNY ON A 2G NT?
Sean RS Costall
"Deadly" CO
Dave Mertz
Long Term Fuel Trim Above 4500 RPM
Jeff Brinkerhoff
Ohyeah
Kevin
Another comment on stealth cats
Tom Stangl
My engine blowup
Tom Stangl
Re: stuck rotors
DSM Owner
Possible low boost, resonated tips
gsxguru
Warranty/Commercials
JON ROBERTS
GVR4 war story.
Snakeyes2
VR4 vs BMW results
Warren C Daniel
Hi flow cat
Warren C Daniel
Nippondenso Fuel Pump Install
Warren C Daniel
3000GT VR-4 pilot spotted!
Devil Bat
BR Front mount I/C [1G, AWD]
Warren C Daniel
Miami/Ft. Lauderdale DSM Club
John Werner x25054 Re: Irresponsible driving
jim_jordan
Re: Stealth cats and diesels
Dane Bills
Gas mileage questions
Mung Bungholio
ECU codes, Vibration
Mark Purney
[ 2G ][ T ] A new Spyder GS-T page
Shawn Murphy
Premature Boost Bleed? [2GT]
gselph
cats and chicks
Tom Stangl
Synchro differences
Todd Streed
Diesels
Michael A. Stegbauer dealer plug
BlueTalon2
War Story
Bill Kircher
GVR4 trans interchangeability
Keith McDonnell
Replys for the last week of digest
ROBERTC
AWD dyno questions
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
Feb 8 - AZ Region SCCA Solo II Spring Series #1 Firebird raceway skidpad
$15/$20 Gates open at 6:30am starts 8:30, Details 831-8166
Mar 1 - AZ Region SCCA Solo II Spring Series #1 Firebird raceway skidpad
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:53:57 -0600
Subject: Sticky antenna.
Message-ID: <#1>
For the guy with the sticky antenna, are you sure your car doesn't know
something about the death of the Talon?
Dave Scott
'90 TSi AWD
(in mourning)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 15:46:20 -0600
Subject: Hostility Festival
Message-ID: <#2>
I had an irresistible urge to kick children and take candy away from small
animals after reading the digest today. Todd, buddy, chill man. I do agree
with you however. Not wanting to spend the money to replace one or more
cats
is one thing, but removing perfectly good ones is another.
To Frank Mowry (aka Mr Toughguy): Not everyone can afford to destroy
clutches
on a regular basis. Live and let live everyone.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:01:11 -0800
From: Shawn Jewett <[email protected]>
Subject: Personal choices
Message-ID: <#3>
Hello all,
Most of the time it does no good to preach because people who are set
in their ways will not change. However, I do feel I can bring up a
point that most people do not think of.
As far as the environment goes, most people are hypocrites, myself
included. I do more for the environment than 80% of the general
population. I do not buy paper plates, cups, towels, etc. I use
cloth towels and regular dishes. I recycle "most" things, not all
though. Up until recently I rode a bicycle to and from work everyday.
I did this for many years. Due to my work schedule I drive now.
Remember, I'm a hypocrite too, I won't deny it.
When I was married we used cloth diapers on both kids except when they
were in diapers at the same time, just a little too much "poo" to
handle at once! These are just some of the things I do, have done,
to help save our planet. If I had to lean in one direction I would
call myself a "environmentalist tree hugger". And I use a testpipe.
Just because I choose to help the environment in one way and not
in another doesn't make me any worse than anyone else. ANYONE who
will not use a testpipe, "because of the environment", on the street
but will use on at the track "because it's legal" really does not
care about the environment! It is just an excuse. If you really wanted
to help the air...DON'T DRIVE YOUR CAR! So my car puts more crap
in the air than your car with a cat on it. YOUR CAR puts a hell of a
lot more CRAP in the air than me on my BICYCLE! (unless I ate beans
for lunch)
ANYONE who complains about not using a converter on a car and doesn't
do EVERYTHING in their power to help the planet earth is just another
hypocrite!
The ONLY, I repeat, ONLY issue of "to cat or not to cat" is the
legal one. When it comes down to it, it's the law, you MUST comply! If
you chose not to use a cat, you broke the law. And if you get caught,
you SHOULD pay the price, after all YOU KNEW IT WAS THE LAW, YOU CHOSE
TO BREAK IT!
I pollute the air with my car, (when I drive). I also save the air in
MANY OTHER WAYS. For those of you that complain about me and my
testpipe while they drive with their cat on, RIDE A BIKE THEN PAL! I DO.
I have strong reservations about sending this in cause I don't like
making enemies. I TOTALLY understand BOTH sides to the issue and the
only ones who are TOTALLY environmentally conscious are the "tree
hugging" radicals, and I disagree with them too. I have friends in both
positions and I would like to keep all of my friends and not "piss
anyone off".
I hope no one takes this personal, it was not meant that way. I'm just
trying to shed a little light on those who drive with a cat and think
they are doing no wrong. Todd, Don't get me wrong, I respect your
opinion and I'm not trying to change it. It's just every "check" has
it's "balance".
Todd, thanks for providing this GREAT forum to present our questions,
comments, and concerns. Keep it up!
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD (hope this format is ok, I'm done with AOL and now on IBM)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:09:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [1g, T] To cat or not to cat...
Message-ID: <#4>
In response to the cat warfare that's been going on...
I'm using a 3" cat as part of my full 3" system. I didn't have to, at the
time I put it on, Georgia had really lax emissions standards. That may've
changed now; I haven't taken the new test yet.
The point being, there are some of us who are trying to protect the
environment while still going fast. The biggest problem I've had with my
cat hasn't been performance related; it's the fact that the cat is the
lowest part of the car, and I have to be careful. I've since seen a 3"
"bullet" cat advertised, from Random, I think. It looks like it might be a
better solution for our cars.
"Fast with Class", to me, certainly implies running as clean as you can.
Otherwise, why not just throw a big block in there?
Allen Belletti
'94 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:24:42 -0500
Subject: Tires and lowering.
Message-ID: <#5>
I'm trying to decide on what look I like best as far as wheels, tires,
and lowering. If you have a pic of your 1g with other than stock
wheels, tires and springs, I like to see it. Please include information
about your setup. Also I wouldn't mind seeing some nice paint jobs.
Thanks,
Karl
91 GSX AWD.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:52:02 EST
Subject: GVR4 roughing up the Bimmers
Message-ID: <#7>
Well, with fresh engine (800 miles) and some Yokohama 008Rs borrowed from
a
vintage 911 racer, Im headed off to BMW driving school at Sebring...might
rough up some M3's. DSM vs M3 doubleheader, Todd blows um up, I blow um
away...
Morgan Smith
91 GVR4 #527
"yessir, its a 318 with black wheels"
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 19:06:59 -0500
Subject: Hallman b/c,hoses, and timing [1g,t,awd]
Message-ID: <#8>
The other day I was playing around with the settings on my Hallman
controller, when I was done I didn't turn the nut with a wrench.
Needless to say all of sudden I'm hitting 20+psi. Yep you guessed it
the nut,set screw and spring were gone. Anyone know the sizes on these
parts and if there available at a hardware or automotive store? Is my
controller shot?
Next question, while poking around the engine looking for a vacuum leak
I noticed, on what I think is the purge control valve, 2 nipples with no
hoses (it had a total of 4, 2 with & 2 without hoses). I looked at my
diagram of the vacuum hose routing and it shows only 2 hoses conected
even in the CA cars. Anyone have any idea what they are for, should I
connect them to something?
One final question because either I'm stupid or confused or both. In
regards to setting the timing where should the timing mark line up when
it comes from the factory (top - middle - bottom)? Where would I want
to set it to try and increase the power a bit (top - middle - bottom)?
And just to clarify when I say "top - middle - bottom" I'm refering to
the marks near the lower timing cover.
Thanks,
Sean
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:59:16 -0600
From: "Brady Berry" <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G,T] 1991 Eagle Talon Tsi For Sale
Message-ID: <#9>
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi
~Limited Slip Differential
~Blue over silver
~Custom 5 spoke aluminum wheels
~5 spd transmission
~Dynomax Exhaust
~K&N Air Filter
~Tinted Windows
~Grey Leather Interior
~Running Mobil 1 sythetic in transmission,
engine, rear differential, & transfer case
~93,000 Highway miles
~Sony CD Player
~Excellent Shape
$5,500
Located in San Antonio, Tx
Brady Berry 210-654-7892
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:37:33 -0600
Subject: Front toe adjustment
Message-ID: <#10>
[1G]
After a little shunt up and over a curb, every tar strip and
street irregularity would tug at the steering wheel. Diagnosis:
the front wheels were toed out - 9/64" to be exact - just out of
spec. Toe = 0 +- 1/8".
Adjusting front toe on these cars is easy. So easy I think
anyone that does this once will never again take their car in for
this adjustment. We're talking 30 minutes, the amount of time
you would spend driving to and from the shop.
If any one wants to give this a try, let me know, and I will
e-mail you the how-to information.
Barney
92laserAWDturbo
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:50:28 -0600
Subject: ILLEGAL Cat conversions
Message-ID: <#11>
Thank you Todd for stating your opinion about "stealth" cats. I could not
agree more! Our cars can produce plenty of power and still be as fresh as
a flower! To those of you who ARE part of the problem, I hope officer
friendly pulls you over and tickets you. You deserve it! Get a clue
people, we only have one earth. Is it worth it? Boy, I tell ya, some
peoples' children just don't get it! Thanks again Todd for the post,
hopefully some of it will sink into their brains. Keep up the great work!
T. Cade
91 GSX (ghost)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:16:50 -0800
Subject: MAS screw - muffler
Message-ID: <#12>
So there I was, stuck in rush hour traffic in the middle of town.
Suddenly, a gap opens up and I punch it. I'm reading the gauge and in
no time at all it creeps past 90...92...94... 98. Yes! I'm getting
.98 volts off my O2 sensor. Guess that's about what I'm supposed to be
getting huh? I'd like to turn it down to .90ish like I read on the
digest a couple days ago if I could only find this screw everyone is
talking about. I'm sure it's right under my nose, but my nose must not
be big enough because I can't see it.
[I'm no expert on O2 sensors, but I think that what your seeing is the
O2 sensor temporarily taking a "set". The O2 sensor in our cars is
really set up to be a switching device. I believe the sensor will
saturate somewhat once it stops switching. So what you might be
seeing is creep, and the real O2 voltage is what you read when it
first stopped switching... 0.90 V. Like I said, I'm not sure about
this, but I have read things that imply my guess may be correct. Anyone
know for sure? -talon mgr]
I'm also looking for a muffler for a 2.5" cat back system I am going to
have a muffler shop bend for me (hopefully). I've read through the
archives about the Ultraflow and Super Turbo. What I got out of the 32
messages was one may or may not be louder than the other. Don't really
care about that though. My main concern is trying to find one that
fits. I have a '92 Talon turbo Fwd. I was looking for either part
numbers for the mufflers or dimensions that will fit my application. I
know the 90-91 super turbo system will not fit because the 92 has the
rear valence that goes down further. Any help would be greatly
appreciated
Mike
'92 Talon Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 21:12:05 -0500
Subject: [1G] Radio
Message-ID: <#13>
Since others have had this radio prob with the 1G stereo, thought I
would add myself to the list. The weird thing is, mine went bad just
sitting around in the closet.
I bought my car a year old, and 6 months later I removed the stock
system (AM/FM/Cassette/EQ) and replaced it with the Kenwood setup I had
on my old car. The stock unit stayed in the closet for about three
years, when my friend bought himself a 1.8 1G Eclipse. They don't come
with many options and one was a plain old stereo, so I gave him mine to
use to see if he liked it and might want to buy it. Everything just
plugged in and it did well for a couple days. Then, just like everyone
has mentioned, he said the FM went out. Sometimes it was on, but mostly
not. Couldn't figure out what was up with it and he ended up buying
himself a Pyramid (Prestige?) system. Not sure if that was any better.
Now my stock unit is back in the closet...maybe in another 3 years it
will work again! If anyone knows what is wrong when these go bad,
please let me know as well. I'd like to open it up and fix it then.
Hmmm, just thought of something. I had a CB in another closet of this
house, just sitting on the shelf for a year, and when I tried to put it
into the Laser, it had mysteriously gone dead too. Wonder if there is
some strange energy field in my closets.
Mike
91 Laser RS-T
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 21:18:14 EST
From: Importpwr <[email protected]>
Subject: Parts for sale!!
Message-ID: <#14>
Extreme Motorsports Intercooler pipe upgrade for a 2nd gen. Talon/Eclipse for
sale... has been on my car for about 3-4 months... will sell for 325 with new
1st gen. BOV, flex hose and clamps... the pipe kit sells new for 400... I can be
reached at 1-301-776-2903 (Extreme Motorsports) ask for Dave
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 22:09:26 -0400
From: Michel Lavallee <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Talon's Demise, what happens in Canada..
Message-ID: <#15>
>Sorry if someone already brought this up, but what happens to Canadian
members
>who want to replace their DSMs?
>Since Mitsubishi doesn't sell cars in Canada, once Eagle is gone, there is
>no option.
[RTP]
I heard through the grapevine that mitsu plans to expand to Canada...
might give a chance to us from the great (iced up) white north to get
into 3g DSMs one day... Can anyone comment ? I'd love to hear from our
DSM friends on this...
Michel Lavallee
95Tsi AWD
(from iced up Montreal in Quebec!)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 01:32:47 -0500
From: [email protected] (Rolan Somerville)
Subject: Venting
Message-ID: <#16>
On stealth cats:
With all the ways to make power with these cars, you mean to tell me there
really are guys out there who pull the cat and think they've done
something? Get real and buy a high flow.
On PMS vs VPC:
Buy the one that works for you.
On Hank Bell's accident:
Don't dish it if you can't take it. With all the crap you give out on IRC,
GET A GRIP! And if you were serious about the "pain" of not driving a
DSM, you need to GET A LIFE!
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:55:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Ashok N Babu <[email protected]>
Subject: Parting out '91 TSi FWD!!!
Message-ID: <#17>
I'm parting out my black/silver TSi FWD
It was in a front end collison so the front body panels are all bad
including the bumper.
It is 1991 model year with gray interior
This car was mint before the accident!
It has 72K miles
Dealer put new turbo, BRAND NEW Transmission, ALL NEW valve lifters at 58K
I have all the front plastic pieces (turn signals and side markers) Don't
ask me how they survived. And both headlights still work perfectly--so the
motors and headlght assemblies themselves are still good.
It has a Buschur Racing 2.5" Downpipe, testpipe , and HKS cat-back
Also has Front Konis, rear GAB's, and ST springs.
All mods have less than 4K miles on them!--Done this past summer
Interior is perfect.
The car ran amazingly well and did not consume a drop of oil.
I always used Mobil 1 in it since I bought it at 40K
The trans had Redline in it since new--only has 14K on it now.
The rear GAB struts might already be sold, but everything else is still
available.
BTW, the car has PW, PL, AC--the condenser and radiatior are both still
good.
I will start parting it out on Jan 26.--when I can start working on it
Make offers on any parts you want
Thanks
Ashok Babu
'91 TSi--parts car
'90 TSi AWD-hopefully coming soon if I can get the cash together :)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 18:12:18 -0600
From: "Vel N." <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Todd's Rant on cats
Message-ID: <#18>
Todd...
Well said. You don't know how nasty going cat-less is unless you've lived
in a country where cat's are non-existent, or are a fairly recent law.
I lived in England for 1.5 years in a fairly small city (Swindon), but
during rush hour, you can smell the STINK of cat-less cars (yes, there are
more diesels there, but that's an entirely different smell). They were
introduced there not that long ago (5-10 years?). Thus there are still a
LOT of pre-catalytic cars on the road. They still sell leaded gas at all
the gas-stations there.
The difference is amazing. I've had friends/co-workers from Swindon come
over here and comment on how CLEAN THE AIR IS IN CHICAGO DURING RUSH
HOUR.
They claim they can smell the difference
Oh well...you probably won't be able to convince the selfish ones... FWIW.
Vel
91 Galant VR-4 #695
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 01:31:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: IRC Sarcasm
Message-ID: <#19>
*RUF gives Frank a big hug, Jack too*
Well, I've gone and done it. I've forgiven the Extreme camp in my heart
now. I understand what frank is going thru being one of the only extreme
camp supporters and all. I know, that I've said some un-nice things to
Jack Culotta on #DSM Irc, yes, but it was all fair in love an war.
Jack would diss me, and I would diss jack. It would be all kool, about my
riceboy car and all, then the horse thing would come in. Now, the horse
wreck is alright to joke about now, that I have thought about it, but
still, my mom almost died. THAT'S WHY it sticks in my mind that it's not
a joke.
Now, while the jokes were fun and all, jack kinda took it personally, I
guess. One day, out of the blue, he threatens me. Well, I'm a big boy,
and all, but life threats over some silly IRC jokes? Shouldn't I be the
one making the threats, with jokes about a wreck that almost killed me
and my mom? I let it slide. "Meet me at the shootout," was mentioned a
few times.
Don't get me wrong, a fight would settle this, but it really wouldn't.
We're in the SAME club, and should respect each other. IRC can be HARSH
at times, and I admit, when someone dissed me or my car, or EVEN my horse
>=op I got peeved. Just like Frank got peeved at other people dissing the
EXTREME camp. Hell, look at the DSM BOT now! Type the word, "Extreme."
What pops up? "<DSMBot> ExTrEmE? You mean the honda wanna-be's?"
Shouldn't frank be on a cussing spree now, against somebody?
I'm just saying now, with this email, that I'm finally growing up. I'm
not telling jack to, or frank, I'm just telling my side. I hope this
resolves the whole IRC situation. Besides, RUFRIDR, aka HANK BELL is in
his OWN CAMP, thank you very much. I respect that Extreme is the fastest.
I don't CARE what you have in your car, or what version of the PMS you
have in your car. I only know that it's FAST.
I respect the Fast With Class attitude too, don't get me wrong.
Personally, I have no experience with any of the top racers. I don't know
what's there, and what's not there. Hell, when not racing, both camps
usually keep their car in a trailer anyway. I don't really care. Let's
just compete, and beat the OTHER makes of cars. Let's just get along,
have senses of humor like I have found now, and live a happier life.
Frank is gonna hit me with some AWESOME comebacks, but I deserve them I
guess. Hell, that email made me smile. L8R all...
Hank Bell
'96 Camaro RS [and proud of it]
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 00:46:16 -0800
From: Ray Johns <[email protected]>
Subject: PMS EFI
Message-ID: <#20>
Anyone out there have experience with a PMS on a 2nd Gen GSX? Just
wondering
what you thought of it, if it made an improvement, etc. I'm looking to
eliminate fuel cut under WOT
Ray
mod list at http://www.comsystem.com/gsx - car for sale
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 06:53:50 -0500
Subject: stealth cats
Message-ID: <#21>
Well, what doesn't kill us only makes us stronger ;^)
Gotta love evolution!
Talk to ya later
Bill
90 GSX
currently running a 3" Hi-Flow cat spliced into a testpipe
NJ DMV sniff&mirror-test approved
NOT a stealth cat advocate
To each his own
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:20:58 -0600
Subject: DaveB & IC Pipe
Message-ID: <#22>
Hey all
As some of you know, I had kind of been complaining about the clamps on
my DaveB Upper IC Pipe... :) Please forget those, it was kind of my fault,
cause I was using two of the stock clamps instead of getting a 2.25" clamp
(like 50 cents). So it has nothing to do with DaveB's pipe, this is an
extremely high quality unit that will NOT blow off, (it never blew off, just
when the clamp came off it could leak air). And just to show that Dave
believes in keeping the customer happy, he called me today and offered to
send some clamps! Anyways, I just went to the store and got a 2.25" clamp
and the pipe is staying on perfectly! This is truly a beautiful pipe.
Check out http://www.buschurracing.com/ !
Bobby Bernauer
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 15:45:35 -0600
From: mciveron <[email protected]>
Subject: Chrysler lemon law case update (ALL)
Message-ID: <#23>
Hi, I just wanted to give everyone an update on my hearing with Chrysler
on the lemon law. I won the case, and they repurchased my car minus ten
cents per mile($3000). If you don't know the car was a 1995 Eagle Talon
TSI AWD. I will be receiving $17,600. I was very surprised that they
repurchased it! Now I have to start looking for another car, any
ideas. I am looking for something used, I don't need a new car at
school.
Thanks
Chad McIver
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 10:41:51 EST
From: DDynopower <[email protected]>
Subject: Cat converters
Message-ID: <#24>
Todd is right, very good post by him. It's a shame more people don't do
their part to contribute in an effort to preserve the air. Those who live in
high pollution areas should know all too well how critical smog devices are.
I am fortunate to live in a rural area where the air is very clean and
clear. But anytime I go to the city, I notice the difference.
What amazes me the most, is individuals who will take a brand new 2G car,
and rip the cat conv. off immediately. For one, it voids the warranty, for
two, the check engine light comes on, and renders the light useless for its
intented function of when a problem arises.
Many have a full three inch exhaust system made, custom. Which ultimately
causes the small T-25 to fail, due to overspinning and too little of
backpressure.
Later when a larger turbo is installed, the car boost creeps unless an
external wastegate is fit to the car.
There are many nice cat back systems on the market, that are quiet and
promote power. As well as many downpipes that bolt right on.
As for the cat conv., there are also options. Hi-flo units that are Stainless
Steel cased and have very little restriction. The car does not lose much
performance with the hi-flo unit. In fact, a little backpressure may
actually help low end torque and drivability. Something that is desired in an
everyday car.
The making of false cats, however clever an idea it is thought to be, is
wrong. Use a test pipe for racing and a cat conv. for street use. Those
states and areas that check and impose fines for failure to run a cat, are
doing everyone a favor. We all have to breath the air on the planet.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 11:00:37 -0500
Subject: Re: 2G Aftermarket Alarm And GReddy Turbo Timer
Message-ID: <#25>
The first thing I put on my 1998 GSX was an aftermarket alarm (don't trust
factory alarms). I was having problems with getting the alarm and turbo
timer to work in sync.
I have an DEI alarm (makers of Viper, Sidewinder, Automate, etc). But I
found out that I could just program the alarm to passive arm (arm 30
seconds after the ignition turns off. and the door closes) and disable
ignition controlled locking (lock doors when ignition is turn on, and
unlock doors when ignition goes off). So when you get out of your car with
the turbo timer on, just arm the car while it is running. And then after
the timer finishes, the alarm will disarm for 30 seconds (while leaving the
doors locked if you've disabled ignition controlled locking, otherwise your
car is unlocked for 30 seconds) and then it will rearm...that's it!
John Tran
aka Tranman
1998 Black Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date:
Sat, 17 Jan 1998 10:17:32 -0600
From: "Dave Flaherty" <[email protected]>
Subject: Daytona Rolex 24 Hour
Message-ID: <#26>
I will be going to Daytona for the Rolex 24 Hour endurance race. If anyone
else will be there drop me a line. Or if any of you Florida boys and girls
want to get together drop me an email. I will also be stopping at my
buddies in Atlanta, so if anyone there wants to get together (John M, Gary
Selph), just let me know.
Dave Flaherty
irc SmokinDav
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 08:40:49 -0800
Subject: Parts at discount pricing
Message-ID: <#27>
Hey guys,
>I priced an ISC motor from Talahassee and somebody else on worldparts.
>My quotes were 221 and 246 respectively. Scott Trumbo at Norman Mitusu
>gave me 208$.
Just a note, call around and look into any local car clubs and see if
you get a discount by being a member. I'm a member of the local Mopars
Unlimited club (back before my turbo days) and Tom Matson Dodge of
Auburn, Washington sells parts at 10% above cost. I got my ISC from them
for $161! It listed for $269.
Someone posted about PSIG and PSIA. They are, PSIG = psi(gauge) PSIA =
psi(absolute).
Later,
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 12:41:38 -0500 (EST)
From: David Planton <[email protected]>
Subject: HIGH revs, sightings
Message-ID: <#28>
Ahhh, well I suppose I can now contribute my $.02 to the durability of the
DSM motor. My girlfriend was being stupid in MY car and decided it was
time to accellerate up a hill. When she hit 90mph she promptly shifted
back into 2nd(from 3rd) and completely released the clutch. Needless to
say I watched the tach hold at just past the 9000rpm mark, and that was
simply because it couldn't move any farther. So far no problems and
everything works great! She is now cut off from driving my car.
Last night I saw a silver/grey 95\96 Talon lowered w/a fat tip on Lane Ave
near I315 in Columbus, also saw a sweet white Talon lowered w/a fat tip
in the same area of Columbus/Ohio State Univ. Anybody want to claim them?
I was in the silver 97 GSX.
Oh, and that 0-100-0 thread. The old AC Cobras with the 426 or whatever
it was could do it in mid 13's! -David Planton
97 GSX "TRBO 4X4"
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 12:44:03 CST
Subject: Re: VW warranty and steering
Message-ID: <#29>
>... EXCEPT ...
>VW markets their cars with the slogan, "Drivers Wanted". They show
>their cars in fast paced commercials. They promote their cars as
>"fun to drive".
I accept your EXCEPT. :)
Glad you put it there. Now, it would be helpful if people would clip
ads, tape commercials and such, so that if there really is a stink
later, then the "evidence" for "implied" use of the vehicle can be
documented.
In DSM ads, there are Talons and Eclipes launching with four wheels
spinning, cornering and handling very hard or "closed circuit courses",
what do the manufacturers think people do in a "sports" car, talk on car
phones while reading Business Week and sipping cappucino? Get real.
Of course, my Laser does a fine job on longer distance driving and I do
like Hazelnut coffee. But I bought it because it performs.
Major modifications SHOULD void your warranty. New cams, bigger
injectors, bigger turbos, nitrous, more boost. I know I'll get heat for
saying that but you know it's true as well as I do. The manufacturer
warrants a vehicle in it's for-sale "stock" condition. If you "choose"
to modify to the point where stresses placed on the engine and thus the
chassis are much more extreme leading to increased probability of
failure then why should the manufacturer pay for your fun? However, if
you are running a "stock" vehicle and running it hard, well then that
would be the manufacturers problem for implying that a "stock" model was
designed for that purpose.
BTW, just so I don't get too clobbered on this, I don't think that spark
plug wires, free flowing air filters, sythetic lubricants, non stock
plugs or the like should ever void a warranty.
I'm all for modification. I just get tired of people bitching about why
"Satan" "won't fix my tranny after I blew it up at the drag strip. I
only put in a 20g at 20psi of boost running 350hp. It's a race car,
right?" You know the answer to that.
Big boys want to play with big toys, well then you need a big bank
account to do so or work big hours to cover your fun. Racing and
driving hard is fun but it requires responsibility; financial, legal,
economic and all that. If you want to act like you know what is going
on then be willing to own up to what is your responsibility.
My tranny required a rebuild after 60k miles of non-modified use and
Chrysler screwed me and many of us. That is a shame on their part.
You modify a new '97 till it gets 300hp and something breaks, who's
fault is it, really? Give the right answer because your attitude
impacts on how we ALL get treated.
Oh,
Fixed the steering rack.
It wasn't the rack. Through closer inspection and a bit of experienced
advice from a list member, it was the fluid line. The rubber bushing
which holds the rack to the firewall also encases a portion of the
steering fluid lines. It is a wonderful place for salt and moisture to
eat leisurely on the line until it makes a hole. Not good. This seems to
be a common problem. The shop where my friend works says it is VERY
RARE for a DSM steering rack to go out. Timing belts and synchros is
another story, but you all knew that. :)
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 12:26:07 -0600
Subject: antiseize
Message-ID: <#30>
Hi all
>I found anti seize does not work for me probably since I exceed
>the termperature limit when I race.
Somebody wanna tell me how this is possible? Just imagaine what an antiseize
compound would see on a spark plug thread? I think it's good stuff and I use
it where it is applicable.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:47:57 -0500
Subject: Re: MAS Screw
Message-ID: <#31>
>If you back out the screw, you are increasing the amount of bypass
>air. You can also increase the amount of bypass air by removing
>the honeycomb on the bypass tubes. This makes the MAF count a
>smaller amount of air. Let's say, instead of K, it now counts 0.97K
>of the air. Now the ECU will put out 3% less fuel than it used to
>for a given amount of air.
Maybe I'm not awake yet, but to me, then, this sounds like a bad thing
to do, even the honeycomb. Don't we want that extra fuel since we now
have extra air going in? Won't that lean us out then? What is the
point flowing in more air, when the ECU then provides less fuel? Or is
that what those electronic mods to the MAS are that my shop and I think
DSS provide, something to trick the ECU to still put out the fuel?
Mike
91 Laser RS-T
[Ahhh, but here is part TWO of the above answer. Block learn
compensation. The ECU will learn about the modifications you have
made to the MAF, using the O2 sensor to run feedback. You see, the
O2 sensor switches at a very specific A/F ration. The ECU will
continue to trim a factor on its final output until the final
output makes the O2 sensor switch properly. Why is this done?
To compensate for changes in actuators and sensors that happen
with time. Kind of an "automagic-tuneup". This factor is
applied even when the ECU is not in feedback. Now, it is possible
that you modifed the MAF beyond what the ECU can compensate for
(about 20% drift). In that case, the engine will be perpetually
lean, and you could get major engine damage. But, if you stay
within the limits, you will end up increasing your fuel cut range.
How's that? Doesn't the ECU learn about that? Well, the factory
didn't think the MAF calibration would change much, if at all.
The ECU fuel cuts on airflow amount. This amount is not derated
at all by the block learn terms. If there is a big learning
term there, the ECU thinks the problem is in the fuel delivery
system, not the airflow sensor. So the airflow sensor is reporting
less air than there really is. Thus, the fuel cut point is
increased.
So, you probably won't run into a lean condition after gutting
the MAF, so long as the ECU has learned about it and has the
proper compensation value. This means that you shouldn't WHOMP
on the car for a few days after unplugging the ECU. If the
compensation factor isn't learned, you WILL get a lean condition.
Wait... hmmm, after reading #63, I went and took another hard
look at the 1G code again. It *appears* that it is possible
the learning factor is NOT used above 4500. Ugh. That seems
awfully stupid. I guess they figure they are running fat enough
(as fat as 9.3:1) that they don't have to worry about the
learning factor... Ick. Well, stay tuned folks, this ought
to be interesting...
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 15:17:30 -0500
From: Michael Breslin <[email protected]>
Subject: BG SynchroShift
Message-ID: <#32>
I'm getting 4 more cases of BG SynchroShift. I will be shipping to those
that want it by months end (work is getting busy!). If you want some,
same as before:
$29/3 quarts shipped
Send check to:
Michael Breslin
BFD Inc.
1275 Kinnear Rd.
Columbus, OH 43212
All proceeds will go to the Todd Day "Learn to Shift" fund.
That is all...
Brez!
90 Laser RS-T
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 11:29:06 -0800
From: Spencer Hutchings <[email protected]>
Subject: Check Engine Codes Cats etc.
Message-ID: <#33>
My Talon has been having little fits where it drops two cylinders and
the CE light comes on. The code came out to Ignition Coil or Ignition
Transistor. I checked the transistor and according to my Haynes book it
was doing the exact oppisite of what it should. Knowing that if it was
in fact the case the car wouldn't run; I concluded that the book was 180
out on what the readings should be. On to the coil. The two components
that make up the coil pack tested okay. Knowing how intermittant the
problem is and wanting to do something I replaced the seperate coil
packs with the siameased single coil pack off of my Japanese market dual
runner manifold. It was not easy to make it fit but it did, I fabricated
a bracket out of some scrap aluminum I had. The problem has not
re-appeared, but it was rather intermittant. Time will tell.
Has anybody else had to replace the stock coil packs?
Did it solve your problem?
[I had the same problem, but it went away long ago after expert
jiggling of the connector from the ECU harness to the coil pack.
-talon mgr]
On Cats.
I am replacing mine with a three inch high flow model from PFP. Summit
has the 3" universal fit 17" or 16" long starting at $93.00. If I drag
raced very often I would get one of those collector dumps that would
allow me to bypass the cat when running race gas or just wanting a
little more speed when noise was not an issue.
On the cost of a 944T rebuild, wah wah wah. Get a car you can afford to
break. No offense meant, just being honest.
To the guy that just did a brake job and now has one wheel that gets hot
and one that doesn't. My wife says you have a calliper thats dragging, I
concur. Pull that side apart and rebuild or exchage your calliper(s) for a
new one(s). I'd do this real soon. May as well do the pads, again, too.
BTW - I saw a 16-18yr old kid at Pep Boys trying to buy a belt for the
Paxton "Turbo Blower" on his Mustang. It was comical, but you really had
to be there.
Spencer Hutchings
'93 RX7 R1
'91 Talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:30:18 -0600 (CST)
From: Noah Hansen <[email protected]>
Subject: JT&T SpiralMax Turbo Air Twister
Message-ID: <#34>
For anyone with the Feb. Issue of Turbo, on page 138 they have a
little blurb about this air twister that supposedly "installs in five
minutes and horsepower and fuel economy is gained". For those that can't
find Turbo, First of all...I can relate. That magazine is a pain in the
a$$ to find around here. The twister kinda looks like a small segment of
the hose that runs from the air filter, but inside has 6 kind of fan
blades, that I guess "twist" the air that is taken into the engine. I
called the company today and they said that (at least on our cars) we
could connect two of them (one after the MAS and one before the intake)
for "even more power". Anyone tried this? They are $69.95 each + about
$5 S/H. They have a "30-day 100% satisfaction guarantee", so it can't be
that worthless, can it? Any comments? If not, I guess I'll try it myself
and post the results...
[This has already been hashed through in December. -talon mgr]
Noah Hansen
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 16:43:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: cat con sugg.
Message-ID: <#35>
Don't mean to waste anyone's time here: Has anyone had any experience with
a G-Tech pro meter? They have ads running in various perf. mags ( turbo,
etc. ). Looks pretty cheesy but they claim 0-60, 1/4, trap speed, etc.
numbers to within .1 seconds. Not exactly swiss precision but for $140
sounds reasonable.
As far as cats go, was thinking of taking a 10" 1/4 drill bit and going to
town. Not quite gutting it out, but definitely turning it into swiss cheese
( sorry about the "swiss" theme here ). Seems to me this will satisfy the
happy medium many of us look for between flow and emissions. Not to offend
people against modding a cat, but my feeling is that we should do a million
other things to gain utopia before we concern ourselves with a cat con
(soapbox: not contributing to the problem is fine, contributing to the
solution is far better ). In an ideal world, everyone would care about the
environment, but then again, in an ideal world my baby would run 9's! :)
Yosemite Sam
91 AWD
[You will most likely shatter the catcon block. I don't think it
takes kindly to drilling.
Re: utopia...
We do not live in a perfect world. Therefore, we must take a common
sense approach to all we do. If we simply looked at the extremes of
a problem and said, "No way, impossible!", nothing would get done.
Elegant engineering - the balance of common sense compromises - is
what the game is all about. Who would have believed that a four-banger
with a turbo could trounce most V8s, and get great gas mileage at the
same time? To this day, the Chevy/Mustang crowd still doesn't understand
our car. We can be thankful that Mitsubishi believed it could be done.
Obviously, both EPA and CARB understand that cars, at times, need to
accelerate, and rapidly. Ever wonder how things like superchargers with
rising-rate fuel pressure regulators can get CARB exemptions? The vendors
simply prove that their modifications do not add any smog over stock
during startup, during idle, during cruise, and during deceleration.
Note what is missing - during acceleration! EPA has run the numbers
and knows that smog generated during acceleration is miniscule compared
to smog generated at all other times. After all, how often do you
accelerate your car when you are driving around? A lot in town,
but typically not radical acceleration. Maybe getting onto the
freeway before a long cruise. But the truth of the matter is that
the miles spent accelerating are far exceeded by the miles spent
cruising and the time spent idling. Small sidenote: both agencies
also know the value of acceleration from a safety point of view.
I don't think anyone on this list can deny that the cat is the focal
point of all smog control efforts on a car. There are many other
small additions that have been added over the years, but the cat
is the single most important smog reduction device on a car. And
nowadays, high-flow cats ARE available at a reasonable price. They
are a great compromise between the stock cat and no cat. And for
the street, do you really need that extra tiny bit of power that
you get from not having a high-flow cat? I'm sorry, but I just
don't see it. If you are removing your cat for more power on the
street, why are you not also removing your seats, spare, tire
jack, etc? How about that stereo system with the big subwoofer?
It is not that hard to swap a cat with a test pipe. The first
time you try it, sure, the bolts are all rusted, but if you go
to the track regularly, you'll find that the bolts are not that
hard to do after the first time, especially if you use anti-sieze.
And if you can't change the cat at the track, compromise, and
change it at home, then drive to the track. Then change it back
when you get home. Technically illegal, but do the best you can
under the circumstances.
And hey. What about those people who commute in some tin-can
box, and only take the catless DSM out on special occasions for
short pleasure drives, where they like to trounce everyone they
meet up with? Well, okay, I can see that. While not the most
optimum solution, one could certainly call it a reasonable
compromise. The exact same compromise won't work for everyone.
All that I am asking is to think hard about the problem.
Please try to think a little more long term and realize that
easy solutions are not always the best in the long run.
-talon mgr]
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 19:10:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Chad Merritt <[email protected]>
Subject: Power loss saga Part II
Message-ID: <#36>
I'd like to thank a number of people for their (unanimous) advise that my
boost/power lose/strange air leak sound was related to the all too common
"pin holes" in the IC. Well, today I pulled the IC and most of the
associated pipes and couldn't find any holes or cracks. So, once again
I'm asking for suggestions.
I DID happen to notice that my BR 2.5" D/P had a nice leak in it caused by
not being seated correctly. I don't think that's the problem though. But
I'll fix it this weekend anyway. But, if anyone has any other suggestions
as to where I might be leaking boost, please drop me a line. Thanks
again.
Chad Merritt
90 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:23:01 -0600
Subject: Race Car Insurance
Message-ID: <#37>
Hey all
I have a question :) (not me?) I was recently talking about selling
my Talon, but if it is possible, I would like to make it into a race-only
car. What I need to know is about insurance and stuff like that on it. If
I plan to NEVER EVER drive it on the roads, do I still need to keep
insurance on it? I was told that if they found out I had a car without
insurance they would not renew my license, is this true? Please tell me all
you all know :) Cause there are some gurus out there I know :)
I also want to thank everyone who told me where I could find the carbon
fiber matt, ToraSport ended up being a better option than FoliaTec(man they
have some neat stuff!)
Thanks,
Bobby Bernauer
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:38:40 -0600
Subject: Re: fog light mod
Message-ID: <#38>
>What is the easiest way to get my foglights to be able to come on
>with just the parking lights on.
I made this into a FAQ and sent it to Tom Stangl ([email protected]).
I haven't seen it up on the vfaq page yet but image it will be there
soon.
Tom
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 20:55:23 -0500
Subject: suspensions for 1g's
Message-ID: <#39>
[1g]
I would be interested in hearing from people who have used suspension
components from companies other than Gab and Koni. For example,
KYB,Tokico or Jamex(if they make them for DSM's) or any other. RTP me
with any details eg pro's and con's, likes/dislikes etc
Chris [email protected] ('91 Laser RS Turbo)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:40:57 -0500
From: caan giberson <[email protected]>
Subject: I am creating a collage of everyones eagles!!
Message-ID: <#40>
if you would like your car to be part of my talon collage reply mail to
me. or scan in a pic of your car and email me it. thanks.
caan giberson ('93 TSi, AWD b/w)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:48:16 EST
From: Kmn911 <[email protected]>
Subject: Loud ticking? end of engine in sight?
Message-ID: <#42>
Hi all,
this is my second post. I've been driving my (newly purchased) used Talon TSI
for about a month now, and I am happy to report that nothing has broken yet.
(knock on wood...) I love this car ;TSI AWD!
But I am concerned about a fairly load ticking noise. I dunno if it's just me,
but it really didn't seem this loud when I first got the car.
It sounds kinda like a sewing machine... And when I press on the accelerator.
the ticking speeds up with the revs. It seems to be genterated from the
drivers side. I know ticking is common at idle, but this thing really ticks
when I rev it.
It used to go away after a rev it for a while, and I see the oil pressure
build up.
I thought it might be a symtom of low oil (not enough getting to the lifters)
but I've checked the oil level and it good. And it ticks now even under
load when I'm driving.
Any one have any ideas, Is the end near? major engine work?
The car's only got about 49k miles. Eagle says warranties already run out.
Thanks for any info.
Ken
95 TSI AWD (black)
NYC
ps I meet up with a dark green/black talon with tinted windows on the way
from
Mahattan to Queens 1/16. Any one on the list?
Also anyone know of a decent Eagle dealership in NYC area.
I still have to do the ABS and fuel tank recall.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 21:57:22 EST
From: MIturbo <[email protected]>
Subject: Buscher helps out
Message-ID: <#43>
I noticed a post about Dave Buscher helping someone who needed parts in a
hurry, etc. and I have to put my .02 in too. Just before Xmas, the clutch
started slipping in my wife's '95 Talon and the car is used every day to get
to work, etc. I called
Dave and explained the problem to him. He got a new CFDF clutch, had an
exchange flywheel cut to match the centerforce requirements, and put me in
touch with his brother to get the clutch installed the next weekend.
Luckily, I live less than two hours away, and I was able to get the job done
on a Saturday. The clutch disk was down to the rivets at 44K miles and would
not have lasted another couple of weeks. I had the unique experience of
having both Buschers work on the car at once. After about 4 hours and a few
strong words about 2G cars being designed to frustrate mechanics ( I am
putting this rather mildly :-) ), the job was done and I was happily motoring
home. Dave and Dan Buscher will help you out if at all possible and I
appreciate their quick response to my car problem. It is also worth noting
that Dave ships parts VERY QUICKLY when you call and order them.
The Centerforce Clutch is great for the street. NOTE: If you do this job or
have it done, pick up a ball joint boot from the dealer. It is very hard to
get the control arm off without ripping the boot. The boot IS available
separately, I bought one.
Jerry
-----------------------------Date:
Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:41:09 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Cheap thrills
Message-ID: <#44>
Did a bunch of Mike Welsh's cheap thrills mods today on my '95 GSX. {Thanks,
Mike} I'm really pleased with the results. As usual, procrastination got
the better of me and I had a corner of the room filled with goodies. Since
they forecast 60 degrees today, I figured it was now or March. First thing
I did was remove the old airbox and upper IC pipe. I also did the BOV dump
tube mod. That dump tube must be a masterpiece in counterintuitive engineering. It blocks off about 50% of the air intake to the turbo. I dremeled it
nice and smooth. {A couple of pointers -- be careful as the dremel heated the
plastic to the boiling point and then proceeded to splatter it on my hands.
Also, the intake was full of old oil, sucked in from the valve cover -another dumb design -- clean out the oil first before dremeling as you'll
have a heck of a time getting the plastic bits out of the hose, since it's
ribbed}
Seeing the sorry state of the intake saturated with oil, I took off the
intercooler and lower IC hose and cleaned those. The intercooler has a
plastic ram air piece in front of it. That needs to be removed to get the
IC off. Getting it off without dinging the fins of the IC is a task. It
was pretty easy to clean. Getting it back in with that plastic piece in
front was a chore.
Also did some new spark plug wires and a new K&N Aircharger. The K&N is
huge. It is jammed against the upper IC pipe on one side and the coolant
reservoir on the other. I loosed the bracket on the coolant reservoir to
move it a little forward.
I fired it up and it stumbled for a second and sat on full rich on the A/F
gauge. Guess what I forgot to hook up? {The MAS connector}
Results...maximum boost is now about 15 psi with an occasional spike to 19
if I slam the accelerator pedal down hard in 3rd or 4th gear. To those who
complain about the lack of power in the 2G's 3rd gear, just open up the
intake. I car is much more responsive. Mike plotted up the HP gains,
which he estimates at about 30 hp max but > 20 over a huge range of rpm.
The car also pulls nicely to about 6000 rpm now. Guess the stock turbo is
not up to much more. The sounds are very nice. You can finally hear the
turbo spool up and when you let off the accelerator, whoooooshhhhh! The
BOV no longer squeaks like a mouse. It is very quiet and seems to make a
faint chiming sound at times.
A few questions...
[RTP]
o I have this K&N crankcase vent filter (tiny K&N). Where does it go? I
figured maybe on the metal nipple on the left side of the valve cover?
Is that correct? If so, what do you do with the hose going to the air
intake hose? I'm assuming that is where all of the oil being sucked
into the air intake is coming from {this must be hard on the turbo blades
being soaked in baking oil}
[I don't think they stop long enough to get soaked. -talon mgr]
o The lower IC pipe is split on the 95 with a strange plastic box in the
path. What the heck is the purpose of that box? Can It be safely
removed?
o The new upper IC pipe has a 1 G BOV. That aims the dump tube line at
a weird angle. The line I'm referring to has the flat spot facing up.
In order to get it to fit, I had to contort it some, reducing the size
of the hose. Is this safe? Does anyone sell a new hose to fit better?
o The 95 MAS has only one honeycomb, but it has several plastic lines
running vertically and horizontally, blocking maybe 10% of the total
area. Do these plastic lines serve any useful purpose? Can I remove
them?
o The opening to the stock IC is really small. Has anyone modified their
bumper opening which leads to the IC to get more air there?
Thanks,
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:19:08 -0700
From: Russ George <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G] DPR Eclpise | Front Fascia |
Message-ID: <#45>
I'm looking for some more information on the DPR Eclipse that was
featured in February's Turbo Mag. I looked on DPR's web site and even
e-mailed them, however, they have not yet responded. I'm wanting to
know where they got the rear spoiler? It looks pretty nice, however I'd
love to see more of it (different angles). Does anyone have any other
pictures of this DSM or one with a similar spoiler?
Also, does anyone make a front fascia like the one on the DPR Eclipse
only with a smaller fog light setup? I like the bumper other then the
fog lights are to large and to close to the front. They seem to disrupt
the over all sleek look of the car. I'm sure they're great for rallying
though :)
I recently got into an accident and I'm looking for some front parts.
If anyone has a '90-'91 2.0l hood or any of the front center pieces
(Radiator/headlight support beams, Radiator, A/C condenser, Front bumper
reinforcement) let me know.
Thanks, Russ '90gsX
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 00:58:01 -0800
From: ira <[email protected]>
Subject: 2gt and Hi Flpw Cats
Message-ID: <#46>
I have known several people (including myself) who have installed 2.5"
or larger hi flow cats with no check engine light. There is no air line
into the cat either. As long as the cat gets hot enough to work fairly
well, the second O2 sensor should see clean enough exhaust to pass the
ECU's tests.
Ira
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 02:51:38 -0800
From: "manuel gonzalez" <[email protected]>
Subject: Home Dyno 2.1a Evaluation.
Message-ID: <#47>
I am really impressed with the results of this program, and I would highly
recommend this to anyone with a PC. This cost of this program alone is less
than the cost of a Dynojet session. The feedback is phenomenal...my 91 GSX
shows max of 264 ft lbs @ 4600 RPM, and 265 HP @ 5800 RPM, in a 2nd gear run
This is with a Ported Stock Turbo, and Ported O2 Sensor Housing, 18 PSI
through a Hallman Style Valve, NOS Inline Booster Pump, 3" exhaust, 2.5"
straight pipe, K&N filter, and MAF mods. In my opinion, the low power output
is due to 3 broken exhaust manifold bolts, which allows boost to fall to 15
PSI at 6K. Power really falls off at the top...where I get a reading of only
187 HP and 133 ft/lbs at 7400 RPM, . Gotta find a way to keep that boost up.
More Portwork, 3" downpipe, and 3"straight pipe along with another dyno test
to see the improvement.
For more info...
http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm
Think of it as the Dynojet for AWD's.
I know something good when I see it, and I'm telling you guys...for the
price...it doesn't get any better than this. G-tech, Vericom,
Dynojet...doesn't even come close in bang for the buck. Thanks Michael
Delaney,...for creating this excellent program. I think that I should make it
clear that this program does not guestimate, but gives accurate information
based on inputs.
Manny Gonzalez
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 11:31:16 -0000
From: "Christopher J. Heim" <[email protected]>
Subject: smog, tranny oil other ramblings [1G, T]
Message-ID: <#48>
Todd - you're right on with regard to a 'smog-control-free' world... The
Brits are several years behind with regard to pollution controls, and while
I was no fan of them either when they came about, they've been refined and
generally produce the desired result without totally killing performance
now. My '74 Monte Carlo had a 350 and did 0-60 in about 10s - it was the
first year that they put all that crap on... and it got about 15mpg with a
tailwind on the freeway. We all know what the 2.0L DSM does and still
manages to get 21mpg.
Anyway, the point is, here in the U.K. you can hardly breathe behind most
of the cars as they *don't* have cats. They just recently got unleaded
petrol, and have started to put cats on cars (circa 1975 in the U.S.). The
diesels are 'cleaner' pollution-wise, but the particulates that they put
out are pretty tough on my sinuses, and it seems everyone here has them.
They are *no* fun to be behind... but then, with the DSM, you don't have to
be for long... usually! :-)
On the issue of tranny oil, I picked up some semi-synth here, specified
75W-80 (as close as I've seen without getting the stuff from the states),
and thought "great... no waiting for the mail!" -- WRONG... pulled out of
my drive.grrrrrrcrunch. (damn.) Put it into 1st grrrcrunch. (crap.)
Anyway, you get the picture. So the specs really *don't* tell you how the
stuff will perform in your tranny. I have had *great* success with the
Mopar special part that our cars require - I made them look it up for me it *is* about $9.00/qt, but then you only need about 3 of them. And never a
cruch since - so it must be close to the BG/Amsoil performance. If anyone
wants the part number RTP, my manual is in the car in the garage!
Just my $.02...
Chris
'91 TSiAWD Boostin' all over the U.K.
[Just wondering... do you find left-hand-drive to be much of a
disadvantage in a right-hand-drive world? How does your Talon
take the roundabouts? -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 08:06:12 -0500
From: Mike Roy <[email protected]>
Subject: Newbe with stupid questions
Message-ID: <#49>
I Just bought a '92 Eagle AWD turbo. It has 85,000 and is completely stock.
I love it. It didn't come with an owners manual however, and I have a few
questions that are pretty stupid.
How the heck do you set the time on the factory radio/cassete deck ? Could
some nice soul copy the radio and CD control pages from the owners manual
and fax then to me ?
Is it common for the factory CD player to skip when it or the CD's are
cold? I know it's 92 technology, but it's pretty annoying.
[I've found this is most often due to condensation. Don't know whether
is it condensation on the laser lens or the CD itself. Once the CD
player heats up, or I've dried out the car by having the windows open
or had the defroster running, I don't have too many problems.
-talon mgr]
I used your archives already to fix the sticking passenger window. This is
one of the best organized sites I have ever seen.
Any help you can give would be appreciated
Mike Roy
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 10:43:40 EST
Subject: VPC and fastest 16G times
Message-ID: <#50>
Hi again,
Sorry for the double post. I finished reading the digests and have a few more
comments.
The VPC vs. PMS is a topic that will not come to an end. I do not care nor do
I want to argue. I have had excellent success with the VPC as can be seen by
the number of my guys running it at the top of the 1/4 mile list. I had no
luck on the other hand with the PMS. Doug Derby had both on his 2G which is
the fastest when he set his initial record but the current one up on the 1/4
mile page is with the VPC only. I could go on and on about it but feel no
need. Sean is the fastest right now and he uses the PMS. Rather than start
an arguement and be called a liar or discuss other differences in the car that
will only sound like an excuse on my part I will just leave it with Sean is
the fastest. No big deal. I still like the VPC.
As for Brian's post about the VPC and HKS's support. I admit their support
sucks. This doesn't matter either, where there is a will there is a way. We
have ways of getting around everything. I am currently running the 620cc
injectors, they have quite a bit left in them and I use the standard 550
program in the VPC. The car runs great. I have run 685's and will be going
back to them soon, it ran fine with these too but required some tuning with
the fuel pressure and the GCC. As for Todd modifying our ECU's, yes he has.
He has done nothing with fuel control so you can rule that out on making the
larger injectors work. Also, Tym ran 10.98 at 125 mph with the regualr old
550cc injectors and the VPC/GCC. So why is the 550cc chip even a concern?
Last time I checked there wasn't too many guys close to needing a change.
John has also gone 11.18 @ 124 in a car ALOT heavier than ALL of the rest of
the guys any where near the top 5, this is with the same combo. Point is the
550 standard prom for the VPC will support well over 600 hp from what I can
see and still be very driveable.
The question was brought up about the fastest 16G car. John was the fastest
with a small 16G with an 11.86. I am still the fastest with a large 16g.
This record goes back only about 4 years, not that long to hold a record;) I
ran an 11.82 with a best ever MPH of 121.35. The MPH was set at the 2nd(?)
DSM shootout. It was backed up with two 118's and a 119.
That's all, thanks.
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 10:43:38 EST
Subject: Japan and wrong information
Message-ID: <#51>
Hi everybody,
Just got back from Japan. Have alot of catching up to do and alot of work
ahead of me.
Japan was really interesting. I am glad myself Tym and Marc stayed for an
extra week. We got to see alot. It is just way too cool to be walking on the
street and see Skylines and Evolutions passing by, and yes they are common.
Seems as though everyone of them were modified. They have stores there
called
"Super Autobacs" they are like regular V-8 speedshops here, sort of like
Summit if you have ever been there or Super Shops. Anyway, it is all 4 and 6
cyl performance parts, really cool. We went to three different ones, one was
a "Super" store, two very large floors. The electronics are awesome there, I
couldn't believe the in car TV's they have for the radios. I would have loved
to get my hands on one of these, the other thing that is very popular is the
GPS systems. This is definetly something that will catch on more and more
here.
The Tokyo Auto Salon was also very good. I have decided I like the EVO III
much better than the EVO IV. The 4 has the engine in the opposite direction
than we do. Meaning the timing gears are on the passenger side. The body
and
facia's just don't look as good to me either. Many EVO's there, many more
SKylines. HKS had an awesome booth. The more I see some of their stuff the
more I like it. They have a Skyline there NOT backhalfed, 9" slick, rear
drive only hooked up, all metal car, running 8.33, this is with no NOS. What
really amazed me is it is running a VPC for fuel management! I expected to
see a Motec or something. All the more reason for me NOT to try anything else
in the RWD. The trip was a blast.
I gave the initial downpayment on the land we just purchased last night. We
are buying a lot here in town to put up a brand new building sometime before
the end of summer. Probably break ground right after the shootout this year.
My brother is going to come on full time along with John that works for me
now. I can't wait.
Also I am in the process of catching up on the digests and came across a
theory of Khanh Din's about my downpipe vs. Archers. I read with interest how
my tubing is thinnner material than Archers. Now first let me say Archers is
mandrel bent stainless and uses a stainless flex section, nice piece.
Honestly, if someone calls and insists on a 2.5" downpipe I sell his. So
anyway knowing what I know about metal I thought that Khanh was a little off
so I got a micometer and measured the wall thickness just out of curiosity too
see. Sure enough, not even close. Archers stainless pipe measures .052 thick
and my aluminized pipe measure .075. 1/3 thicker. So much for that theory.
Thanks guys, good to be back.
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 12:33:27 -0500
From: Mark Purney <[email protected]>
Subject: 2G T USE A CAT and sleep better at night, 3" Thermal probs
Message-ID: <#52>
I don't want to beat this issue to death, but I feel like I should
comment because I've run my Spyder with and without a cat. As an
engineer I went ballistic tweaking and modifying my new GS-T to try and
get max power - it was fun. I even experimented with a test pipe, but
that's all it was - an experiment. I quickly put the cat back on (but I
might be installing a high-flow this spring).
I've come to the conclusion that the EXTRA HP JUST ISN'T WORTH IT. I'm
only sharing my opinions, not preaching, and not trying to sway anyone.
I'm only writing this for the benefit of other curious speed freaks who
have been thinking about trying a stealth or test pipe, just to give an
additional opinion on the matter. These are the reasons I made the
decision to go back to a cat:
1. It's illegal - I don't want to get in trouble and pay fines.
2. It's loud. With my 3" Thermal cat-back, the car sounds great even
with a cat installed. With a test pipe it's just obnoxious - people
looked at me disapprovingly as if I were some loser teen-age punk (I'm
28) or a threat to society. Without that noise, people say, "Hey, what
a cool sports car - what is it?"
3. It's bad for the environment.
4. Made me nervous. Always afraid to open it up and let loose on the
throttle for fear that an officer might be nearby. IT WAS LOUD!
5. Spits black goo all over the back of the car. After a few miles of
driving the chrome on the exhaust tip turns black, and the back of the
car near the tip gets a build-up of something resembling tar.
6. Installation woes. The stock cat has mounting bushings which hold
the exhaust system in place. With a test pipe, if you don't use clamps
and straps, your exhaust will bounce around from side to side and bang
into everything, giving your downpipe a real workout.
Like I said, these were only my reasons.
As for the Thermal 3" cat-back (FWD), I know some people had rattling
and banging problems. I think I posted on this earlier but I found a
way to eliminate this problem using clamps and straps. Find an exhaust
pipe clamp to fit around a 3" exhaust, and an exhaust hanging strap
(heavy rubber strap attached to a swivel hook which connects to the
clamp). Auto parts stores will carry these. Find the place where the
pipe hits the bottom of the car (rear suspension framework). Mount the
clamp on the pipe forward of this contact point. Only attach one end of
the rubber strap to the swivel. Run the strap over the framework
(through the holes) and bolt the free end of the strap to one of the
many holes in the framework. The idea is to secure the exhaust pipe
firmly to the suspension framework where it makes contact. The strap
should be under as much tension as you can get it. This requires some
creativity and experimentation, but it's worth it when you can drive
around without the constant banging.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 12:37:06 -0500
Subject: Car Clubs/Crew in Cleveland?
Message-ID: <#53>
I was wondering if anyone know of or in any import car crews/clubs in the
Cleveland, OH or St. Louis, MO area. The only car crews/clubs I know of in
the Midwest are in Chicago, IL. I would just like to hook up with import
car/dsm car enthusiasts every once and awhile, so I don't get burnt out in
my studies.
John Tran
1998 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 12:56:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Boylondon <[email protected]>
Subject: [2g NT] underdrive pulleys
Message-ID: <#54>
[RTP]
hey all, can anyone tell me what the underdrive pulley does?
thanx
kevin park
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 09:55:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Phil Beers <[email protected]>
Subject: '97 DSM Shootout video
Message-ID: <#55>
I recently tried calling Welsh video to get a copy of the '97 Shootout
as I have neglected to buy it until now. The number I used when
ordering the '96 video was disconnected and no other number was
provided. Can someone help me get in touch with them, so I can watch
the '97 shootout before attending the '98 Shootout!
Thanks, Phil Beers...CCDSM06
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 13:22:19 -0500
From: "Mr.Moo" <[email protected]>
Subject: Alternative to the Trader
Message-ID: <#56>
Just wanted to throw in a suggestion for selling items. At the site
http://www.onsale.com they have a free auction for people to list/sell
their stuff. If you goto the Exchange section there is an automotive
section that is just waiting for DSM to utilize. If you advertise in
both the trader and on onsale there would be a much greater market to
hit plus you could plug Club DSM in every listing.
Aaron
'90 GST
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Sun, 18 Jan 1998 17:52:30 -0500 (EST)
Don <[email protected]>
Subject: Galant VR4 For Sale
Message-ID: <#57>
Ok guys, I was poking through the paper, and found this ad...
Mitsubishi '91 Galant VR4, limited edition, white, black leather interior, 4WD,
turbo, exc. cond. $10000 (716) 729-2109 days (716) 768-6566.
The car is in or around Rochester NY.
I do not know if this is a good deal, or anything more. I tried to call, but
could not get a hold of the seller. If you are interested, and not from around
here, I would be more than happy to scope it out for you...
Don Fitzreiter
(716) 475-4443
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 17:31:02 -0600
From: "Bradley H. Lamont" <[email protected]>
Subject: [2G] 95 cd changer in 98, and 98 ABS
Message-ID: <#58>
Hi I am going to be trading my 95 GST in for a 98 GSX in the next few weeks.
Does anyone know if I can move the 6 disk cd changer from my 95 to the 98?
Also, I am considering getting ABS. What are the feelings on the list
about ABS? Does anyone know how many channels it is?
I am going to be upgrading the car for autocrossing, so maybe I'm better
off without the ABS. Any opinions?
TIA,
Brad
-----------------------------Date:
Sun, 18 Jan 1998 16:17:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Fred Jin <[email protected]>
Subject: Wheel bearings?
Message-ID: <#59>
I've been hearing some funny noises from the front axle/wheel area of my
Galant VR4 lately. So yesterday I jacked the car up, took off the
wheels, and ran the car in gears to listen to the noises. I discovered
that when under light load, the front two wheels would barely turn, and
vibrate, and make this GGRR...GRH grinding noise. I went underneth the car
to check for noises, and they were clearly coming from the two wheels.
I am guessing that the wheel bearings are bad, and check w/ the local
parts suppliers for the price of the bearing kits, the cheapest ones were
$50 for each side. I looked at the installation procedures on the factory
manual, it looks pretty troublesome.
Before I take this $100+ gamble, I'd like to know if anyone else has
encountered this problem before, or know what the problem might be. Any
response would be greatly appreciated.
thanks,
Fred Jin
91 Galant VR4 #116/2000
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 19:52:26 -0500
Subject: 2G Clear Taillight Covers?
Message-ID: <#60>
[RTP]
I know that this might sound stupid, but I was wondering if anyone knew of
anyone who makes "Clear" Taillight Covers for a 2G Eclipse...if not, how
difficult would it be to fabricate? I want to make my taillight covers
custom (two circles on each side), like the ones from Speedster Racing.
(or how easy is it to "cut" a GTS taillight cover?)
Since my car is black, the taillight covers will be totally black (and I
want the "red" from the taillight to show through all time and not effect
the brightness of them. I made a rendition of this digitally (check it
out at http://www.tranman.net/eclipse/taillight.jpg). So if anyone could
help me in my quest for a custom taillight covers, please email me at
[email protected]
John Tran
1998 Black Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 17:27:23 PST
From: "miSter eCL1pSE JaY JaY" <[email protected]>
Subject: BLOWN TRANNY ON A 2G NT?
Message-ID: <#61>
HELP! HOW COULD THIS HAPPEN TO ME? IT HAS NOT BEEN ABUSED, ITS A
NON-TURBO, AND WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON? I was leaving Target at
about 2:00pm today and when accelerating I heard a loud POP at about
25mph. the engine died and the car just started coasting. I started it
up again while moving but with the car in gear, the car wasn't catching
and moving. I pulled over on the side of the road( right next to
kiddyland on 1st ave) and got out. The next thing I saw was the most
horrible thing I have ever seen. There in front of my car was a HUGE
PUDDILE OF TRANNY FLUID WITH PIECES OF MY TRANNY IN IT! I WAS LIKE
WHAT
THE F#$%K? I then pushed it over to the denny's parking lot and
called AAA for a tow to OLYMPIC MITSUBISHI in chicago(if anyone has
dealt with them, email me and let me know if they are knowlegeable)
while waiting for the tow, I jacked up the car to see the damage...the
damm hole was like 5 inches long, taking up the whole bottom half of the
transfercase. What could cause such damage or this to happen? I didnt
hit a bump, I was'nt accelerating hard, and the car was warmed
up...well, the car has like 35,000 miles on it(95) so I hope the
warranty covers it...if anyone has had any thing like this happen to
them or know's HOW MUCH THIS WILL COST PLEASE EMAIL ME! I NEED
HELP!
CHICAGO DSM DRIVER,
JAY-JAY
312-449-2871
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 20:04:58 -0700 (MST)
From: Sean RS Costall <[email protected]>
Subject: "Deadly" CO
Message-ID: <#62>
Sorry, I couldn't leave this one.
>It eliminates not only Deadly Carbon Monoxide
Carbon monoxide is only dangerous in high concentrations over long
periods of time. (You'll note that "monoxide" is not a proper noun and
hence is not capitalized.)
There is much worse stuff out there, some of which is generated by auto
engines. Hydrogen sulfide, sulfer dioxide, nitric oxides (several) and
others. Emissions testing typically checks for these and other major
pollutants. The catalytic converter system is designed to reduce the
amount of all of these gases.
Try breathing H2S, HCN or Cl2 at the OSHA limit for CO. You'll be dead
before you hit the ground.
Sean
Yes, I do work for a manufacturer of gas detection equipment.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 22:22:21 -0800
From: Dave Mertz <[email protected]>
Subject: Long Term Fuel Trim Above 4500 RPM
Message-ID: <#63>
In a previous post regarding the Dime Store Fuel Cut Defencer I said:
>> boost, I was able to correct the full boost, 4500-7000 rpm, air-fuel ratio
>> from 11.0 to 13.0.
>
>You ought to check it again after the ECU learns a new long-term fuel
>trim (correction) with the defencer in place. You may find that the
>mixture is back to being richer again.
Well, after looking at the code some more, and doing some testing and
code modification, it is apparent that the '95 ECU always ignores the
long term fuel trims when the RPMs are above 4500.
I retract my previous suggestion.
Dave Mertz, '95 Talon TSi AWD
(now running with a fixed -6% fuel trim above 4500 RPM instead of 0%)
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 22:36:43 -0500
Subject: Ohyeah
Message-ID: <#64>
>Once moving, however, even the lightly-modified ones
>really fly--we have personally seen one pull away from a 6-pound blown '93
>Cobra (we won't say which car we were in).
Heh heh. That's all I have to say... God I love these cars. I can
truthfully say I don't care to ever own another NA car... unfortunately
that may not always be possible, but I'll sure try like hell.
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 12:04:16 -0500
From: Kevin <[email protected]>
Subject: Another comment on stealth cats
Message-ID: <#65>
I definitely have to take Todd's side on this one. I hate the smell of
a car driving somewhere near me that doesn't have a cat. It's VERY easy
to pick out. Also, I'm not sure what the fastest DSM has run with a
cat, so I'm going to have to go to a taboo area here and mention
mustangs. I dug up an article where I found a mustang race class where
they had to be totally street legal and have cats in place. The fastest
car in that article in particular ran a 9.75 1/4 mile. So, for anyone
who claims that no matter what a car is a ton faster without a cat--take
that as food for thought. I think that at other similar mustang
shootouts they have hit 8's through cats, but I have nothing to back
that up. I'm guessing the 9's is similar power to shove through 2 cats
as compared to what most dsm's would need to push through one cat
running 11's. The equipment is out there, the cat should not be a
restriction, but there should be one there. Just my $.02 on that.
Todd, I've had a water temperature sensor on a 2.2L chrysler stick high
when it went bad. I don't know if its thermocouple or resistive based,
or if its the same as a TEL sensor for that matter.
Kevin
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 22:00:04 -0800
Subject: My engine blowup
Message-ID: <#66>
Well, we pulled the head and tranny this weekend, and the head MAY be
salvagable. It seems my #3 piston just decided to vaporize on the side,
with no noticable path of destruction from the top of the piston like last
time. Check out:
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/dead/piston3-01.jpg
That scarring at the top of the blowout is NOT the blowout path, that is
from the piston ring remains tearing up top, then going out my valves, into
the intake manifold, then INTO OTHER CYLINDERS. Not to mention ruining my
turbo turbine wheel on the way out. (Just check out
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/dead/ in general, I will continue to post
pictures there). Ouch. And the heavy load the #3 cyl placed on the engine
managed to crack the ring lands on piston 2 (as I can't think of any other
reason they were.
<sigh> This engine rebuild will cost me more time than I had hoped, and FAR
more money than LAST YEAR'S, and I *still* don't know what caused it. I
need to send off the injectors for testing asap.
One nice thing, though - the VFAQcam is working great, I took 150 or so
pictures on the new RAM card I bought for it (including 20 pics of a car
that hit the building we were working in), and had them on my home computer
not long after I got home. Got many good pics, and can now make notes on
what pics to take while putting everything back together.
Tom Stangl
http://www.vfaq.com/
DSM Visual FAQ home
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 22:19:40 -0800
Subject: Re: stuck rotors
Message-ID: <#67>
>>I spent FOUR hours trying to remove one of mine, and cracked
>>it in the process.
>Have you ever notice the threaded holes in the rotor cap. Just put in two
>bolts and tighten. The rotor should pop off with a little tapping.
>On very rusted ones once you hit the torque limit of the bolts stop. Heat
>the rim of the rotor hat with a blow torch and it will pop of in a few
>minutes. I found anti seize does not work for me probably since I exceed
>the termperature limit when I race.
>How was you wheel bearing after 4 hours of pounding
Talk to me after your car is 7 years old, with half of it being near the
East Coast beaches ;-) Many an east coast car requires removing the rotors
in pieces. Strangely enough, on the Laser (which came from PA - nasty
winters, but they SAND, not SALT, the roads) they came off pretty easily.
But I spent four hours with a plastic hammer, then metal, while also using
a torch, oil, AND those bolts. The rotor finally cracked at one of the
bolt holes.
BTW, you need to buy better antisieze ;-) If you buy the nickel antiseize
from Loctite, and exceed ITS temp rating (2600 deg F), your car would most
likely be on fire from the pads/fluid exploding.
Wheel bearings seem fine.
Tom Stangl
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 01:44:13 EST
From: DSM Owner <[email protected]>
Subject: Possible low boost, resonated tips
Message-ID: <#68>
Just how much boost should a stock gauge read under full boost on a
completely
stock TSi AWD (if there are any out there ;-) )? Well, almost stock with a
modified air can (no K&N) and an unknown brand of aftermarket muffler with
stock piping (The muffler was on it when the car was purchased). The car
used
to read 14 psi at pretty much any rpm once the turbo spooled up. Now, since
yesterday, it stops right at 7 with maybe a spike to 9 occasionally. I've
checked all the intake hoses, intercooler, etc., etc., and no leaks are
apparent. I was thinking that the car was boosting too high and the problem
(if you want to call it that) has corrected itself. I have no reference point
as this is the only turbo I have driven.
Also...
My 2.0 NT is still with stock exhaust as I pulled the PaceSetter off. I
couldn't tolerate the buzzing bee noise that emanated from my car. I got
excellent gas mileage with it on though because I was too embarrassed to
accelerate as it sounded like my car had some bad burritos IMHO ;-). Is this
what the resonated tip does? If so, I will chop off the tip and put a regular
chrome tip on. If it is a function of the muffler...does anyone in the
Oklahoma City area want a PaceSetter exhaust cheap?
TIA
Brian Powell
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 06:54:39 -0600
Subject: Warranty/Commercials
Message-ID: <#69>
>personally, I think the FTC should
>force them to change their ads to plainly state, "Drivers Wanted,
>Unless You Try To Make A Warrantee Claim. Mostly, We Want People
>Who Keep Their Car Garaged Most Of The Time Until The Warranty Is
>Up."
I have often wondered about this with the truck commercials Chevy and
Ford always show. They show them getting tons of bricks dumped into the
bed and going over huge bumps with wheels leaving the ground and such.
If you were to do this and request warranty work, they would laugh in
your face. Yet, they show THEIR VEHICLES doing this and advertizing
that they CAN DO THIS and IMPLY that they ARE MEANT TO DO THIS.
To keep the DSM content up, we all pay for warranty work done on
vehilcles whether they were modified or not. If you screw your car up
because you were irresponsible by increasing boost without a boost gauge
and then go request warranty work, you might as well just go to the
public and take their (our) money because that is exactly what you are
doing.
Ken Schlorf
having a bad day and I am using my human BOV (mouth)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 08:47:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: GVR4 war story.
Message-ID: <#70>
Races in my car don't happen very often because the nature of the grocery
getter.
Well, I have had one race with a Supra twin turbo before and we were about
even.
I may have been a little bit faster but not by much. This was before I got a
ported 16G and a VPC. So, Sunday morning I got my chance to race a Supra
twin turbo
again. This time, it was extremely fun. I saw him as soon as I got on the
interstate
and I think he saw me too because he punched it. I could smell the stink from
his
cat(s) (yes cats smell too. maybe it doesn't pollute as much, but it smells bad.)
So, I hit it in fourth gear, and pass him in the right lane. I could see his
pretty gold chain hanging on his middle-aged neck as I passed him. At 7000
rpm,
I go ahead and shift to 5th and at this point, I'm about 6 car lengths ahead of
him
and I'm going about 125mph.
So now, I think the story is over and I'm happy because I made another Supra
owner
say, "what the hell was that?". I hit the brakes and slow down because I see
traffic ahead. My turn was on the left and both lanes were blocked. As we get
closer to my turn, the right lane opens and he passes me trying to get me to
play some more but I wouldn't go because I had to turn left. Just then, my
trusty
Escort radar detector went off with K band. I hit the brakes hard because I
was going
about 75 in a 55 and the guy in the Supra was passing me. He was close to 90
mph
when he got hit with radar. The cop had the choice to go after me, or the
Supra. It
was his choice. He could even go after one of us and call another cop to catch
the
other guy. Well, as many of you GVR4 owners know, cops don't notice us. He
pulled
over the Supra very quickly and I went on my way. No cops were waiting for
me down
the road either.
What a crappy day it was for that other guy but it makes this little war story
funny.
Jon Roberts GVR4 1833/2000
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:51:03 EST
Subject: VR4 vs BMW results
Message-ID: <#71>
Well, all went well with the VR4 at BMWCCA Winterfest at Sebring. You have
no
idea how many dirty looks I got back in the pits. But then again you don't
know how many "Holy sh_t, what is that thing"s I got after it ran. Out of
about 2 hours on the track, only 2 problems arose, #1 those crappy stock VR4
springs that now sag 2" on the driver side (no, it was the previous owner who
was overweight). And consequently caused the left front tire to rub the fender
on hard right turns. Hopefully this can be solved after a talk with the
Bilstein representative who knows the guy who campains the Hyundai Tiburon
in
ProRally, strangely enough that's a GVR4 drivetrain and suspension...hmmmm.
#2 the damn clutch broke halfway through the second day, Im assuming for
now
that a spring broke and is lodged somewhere in there. As you can imagine,
driving 90 minutes from Sebring to home without a clutch was,
well...interesting.
To cap off the weekend, in the morning of the second day, I was staged up
to run, and notice something big and ugly lined up ahead of me...oh my lord,
its a Viper RT/10, then I get out to take a look around the beast, I notice a
Dinan supercharged M5 behind me (right now I should either be proud of the
VR4, or scared of what happens next). Well, the Viper wasnt all that great,
sure I couldnt go 150 on the straight away but I didnt have to slow down to 35
in the corners. Well, coming through a pretty quick complex the Viper decided
that those huge tires could hold, but they didnt, which sent him into a 720
about 2 car lengths ahead of me (you don't know how great AWD is until the
guy
in front of you ends up looking you in the eye with a look on his face that
words can't describe). Well, the supercharged M5 was another matter, I could
hang with him through the corners but he was gone on the straights, with a
verified top speed of 197 I just hoped that I could still see his bumper.
After a few laps I thought I could catch him (well, thanks to some slow Miatas
and old 2002s), but then on the straightway, while passing said Miata, the
clutch blew and 4th gear never came. Oh well, thats racing.
Morgan Smith
91 GVR4 #527
"Viper Killer"
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:09:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Hi flow cat
Message-ID: <#72>
Hey Stan,
>Later on Warren called me a tree hugger.
BWAAhhhhh, haaaaa! =]
I laughed so hard when I read your post.
But seriously, to cat or not to cat is a personal
choice. Actually, I respect you for wanting a cat.
In Japan, I loved 2-stroke bikes, but had a moral
conflict--those 2 cycle engines burn a lot of oil
and made a lot of smoke when they were cold.
>Warren's friend
>Vic started to tell me that a test pipe was better than a Hi Flow cat.
I'd agree that a test pipe is better from the stand point of
less back pressure on the turbo. But I've heard from some
people that a test pipe didn't necessarily make them
faster. Some people clock the same 1/4 mile times, if not
better, with a hi-flow cat.
><soapbox mode on>
>(...Music in background..."This land is your land...")
Ha, ha, ha...
>I think a Hi flow
>catalytic converter is a reasonable way to protect the air we breath.
I agree. With my baby boy coming, I'm worring about everything that
could harm him--those we can see, and those we can't.
>"How old is that tree son?" " I swear officer I only hugged it"
Great line!
Warren
96 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:18:26 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Nippondenso Fuel Pump Install
Message-ID: <#73>
Greetings all,
I installed my Nippondenso FP Sunday night.
On the way to my installation place, I smeared
a Corvette (LT4), an RX-7, and two Grand Ams (!)
@ 15 psi. I felt a bit bad for the Corvette pilot, tho.
He still had the "brand new" sticker in his back window.
We played for a while, then finally I shot past him.
The look on his face was unforgettable. It was
something like, "..."?
So anyhow, the FAQs are excellent. My fuel pump went in
without too many problems. I'd recommend two things, tho...
1) Be sure to secure the fuel pump inside the tank
with a plastic zip-tie or equivalent. The pump is considerably
larger than the stock pump. And 2) don't overtighten the
nuts to resecure the fuel tank lid. I accidentally tightened
one a wee-bit too tight. Opps.
Now, I'm running 18 psi and the car just hauls. It's
a completely different car than with the T25 Garrett.
Warren
96 GS-T
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:31:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 3000GT VR-4 pilot spotted!
Message-ID: <#74>
Hey all,
I met that rogue 3000GT pilot Saturday. We had a long
talk. I told him about how his diving in and out of
traffic @ 130 was a bit...overzealous. (Using tact.) I told him
that he was good competition, but it's no fun to endanger
others.
Anyway, after my little mother goose speech, we talked
and I convinced him to come out to auto-xing and
road race schools with me and Chip (the hot BMW
pilot the Chicago DSMers meet at Dave and Buster's).
He said his car was putting out around 550hp @ 1.5 bar
(17-18 lbs.). The 3000GT pilot said that he
was impressed that I could keep up with him since he's
creamed Vipers before. I merely nodded
and said, "That's cool, but I was only running 15psi and
fuel cutting all over the place." His eyes went wide.
The part I didn't say was, "I could have raised the boost
and went faster but..."
Now, I have to tell you all about this next part. It's funny.
He said that generally, FWD cars aren't fast. I said, "Well,
mine's FWD." He stopped for a moment with a look at my
car in disbelief. Later, he continued and said that automatics
are usually slow. I went, "Well, my car's an automatic."
He sat silent for a few seconds. Then I said, "I always
maually shift it, tho."
Never count us FWD AT cars out!
Warren
96 GS-T
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:54:04 -0500
Subject: BR Front mount I/C [1G, AWD]
Message-ID: <#75>
Has anyone installed a Buschur front mount I/C in conjunction
with a 7cm 16G turbo?
Apparently, there is some difficulty when not using the 20G setup.
Can someone enlighten me as to what the problem with this is,
and what solutions I may have available to me? (Like rigging
a pipe from the 16G output to the inlet of the innercooler)
RTP, please.
Thanks,
Tony
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:04:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Miami/Ft. Lauderdale DSM Club
Message-ID: <#76>
Hey Florida DSMers,
I'm heading down there next week. Do you
all have any events planned between
1/25 and 1/31?
Thanks,
Warren
96 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 08:09:15 PST
From: [email protected] (John Werner x25054)
Subject: Re: Irresponsible driving
Message-ID: <#77>
I find it really interesting that we have people complain about how
expensive it is to insure their TEL's followed by people telling
stories about how they raced through traffic at mach 3 trying to beat
a car. Does anyone else see a connection here?
The reason TEL's (and other high powered, inexpensive sports cars) are
hard to insure is that they tend to be in more accidents and driven in
a more irresponsible manner then a four door family car (I.e. a Galant
VR-4). Bragging about racing in an unsafe manner is not going to help
the matter.
Leave the racing for the track.
John
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 11:05:37
Subject: Re: Stealth cats and diesels
Message-ID: <#78>
>Could never figure out why anyone would buy a
>diesel luxobox...
The short answer is money. In the early '70s after the Arab embargo, people
were looking for an alternative. Most were looking for something good on
gas, like the 1600cc CVCC (Civic). As you can imagine, performance was
somewhat lacking, to say the least. The more prosperous among us went for
diesels. Fuel was cheaper ($.99/gal vs $1.50+/gal), mileage and performance
was better, and there weren't long lines at the diesel pump. Plus, if you
were really clever, you would buy #1 heating oil which is also known as,
you guessed it, diesel fuel, only it costs a lot less ($.50/gal, I think)
than what you got at the pump. So, if you heated your house with oil and
spent some $ on a pump, you could heat your house and drive your car on the
same fuel. Sounds pretty out there today, but remember, the embargo threw
everyone for a loop. People thought gas would stay at $2.00/gal, ala
Europe, and cars would never reach the kind of mileage we take for granted,
at least not in the near term. As an added plus, you got Mercedes luxury.
Jim
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:25:37 -0500
From: Dane Bills <[email protected]>
Subject: Gas mileage questions
Message-ID: <#79>
Hi everyone, short question, RTP is ok, but I think a lot of new
owners would like to understand more about why our cars seem to get
such ( relatively ) poor mileage. I know I would.
I love my 90 tsi awd manual, but its a real sorrow to see that I'm
only averaging 22 mpg on high test with very little agressive driving
( rarely on boost ). My last car was a 86 Fiero with a 2.8 liter 4sp
and 178k on it. I ran that thing like a race car every day ( 4-5k in
1st and second almost every time ) and regularly got 30-31 mpg. What
gives? I know running awd hardware takes extra horsepower but getting
10 mpg less than a 2.8l seems a little extreme. Why is this? Are our
cars jetted really rich or something? Or do they run really
inneficient at part throttle, or is my car severely out of tune? I
did try dropping down a gear for my in town cruising per some of the
recent posts here about efficiency and torque at such and such rpm;
and that actually have me an honest 1.5 - 2 mpg increase! I think
the problem is that an engine that makes so little torque at low rpms
can't pull well, so you have to use more rpms to climb hills for
example. Of course more intake stokes per minute means more fuel
used. This is why my fiero which could fairly effortlessly pull
itself and accelerate at 1.2k to 1.8k rpms up hills and such probably
got so much better mileage. If you look in a cam book for v8 engines
they always list the low rpm-high torque cams as "good for fuel
economy". It makes sense, if an engine can make more usuable power at
a lower rpm then it will get better mileage than an engine that makes
the same power at 2 or 3 times that rpm.
One Last rambling : I was really excited when I got the car because I
thought I was gonna be kicking a$$ in the mileage dept, with all that
awesome power available , if I chose to step on it and use the boost.
I used to own one of the *extremely* rare 84 1.6L turbocharged ford
exp cars. That thing got 36mpg on the highway, and didn't run too bad
when on the boost ( I still have the turbo if anyone can use it for
anything, the car is toast though ... ). That car is what made me
fall in love with turbos.
So anyway, the car is too cool to be dissapointed. I'd be interested
to hear what kind of mileage others are getting.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:26:15 -0500
Subject: ECU codes, Vibration
Message-ID: <#80>
Thanks to Todd and his help with the ECU I think I have my check engine
light problem fixed. The shop that did the head work had the EGR solenoid
hose swapped with another hose on the throtle body.
I was looking for a page with the code on it and I couldn't find one. If
anybody knows of one please let me know. I am going to make one if I can't
find a compleate page. If anyone has a list of codes for '94 and up please
send them to me. I am going to scan in the pages I have for '90 - '93. I
am also going to work on making an LED that will blink out the code instead
of using the Volt Meter to do it. If anyone knows where I can get the plug
that fits in the ECU diag port please let me know also.
[Yah, let me know, too! Actually, you probably won't be able to find it.
For our datalogger, we had to custom make a circuit board that fits in
there... -talon mgr]
Well the only things left wrong with the Talon that I can see now are the
vibration that I am getting from 2500 RPM to around 3000 RPM (It sounds
like exhaust to me but I thought I would ask.) and the fact that I can't
drive it at high RPM's for another 400 miles.
I am also going to be starting a Central Florida chapter of DSM at some
point (Todd what do I need to do to make it official?). If anyone is in
this area and is interested in joining/helping please get in touch with me.
I want to try and get it setup and running by March so we can go to the
Daytona car show and get our pictures taken with the cars on the track
(this is the last year they are doing it!)
[There already exists a SouthEast chapter. He gets to call the shots
for the region, so coordinate with him. The website can be found at
se.dsm.org. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:46:59 -0500
From: Mark Purney <[email protected]>
Subject: [ 2G ][ T ] A new Spyder GS-T page
Message-ID: <#81>
There are a lot of Eclipse and Talon owner web pages. THIS IS ANOTHER
ONE. Enjoy. If you have a web page for your DSM car, send me an email
so I can visit your site as well.
http://members.stratos.net/mpurney/spyder.htm
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:32:27 -0600
Subject: Premature Boost Bleed? [2GT]
Message-ID: <#82>
I've been talking with Sunny in California (kinda ironic since it's been
raining there alot) and we both have '97 GS-T's, mine a coupe and his a
convertible (which has no ramifications on this problem). We booth are
experiencing a problem, which I'm sure other 2G owners have experienced,
that we might have pegged, but I'm not sure. Remember the postings about
hesitation at low acceleration then we I nailed the throttle, my boost
would build but my car would go nowhere fast? Then if I let off the gas
for a millisecod and then nail it again, my car would take off.
Well...could this be because my bov is bleeding boost off when it senses a
slight change in the throttle body closing? Think about it...you're
accelerating slowly and right when your foot starts to let off the gas, the
throttle plate begins to shut and the boost is bled off, but, less than,
say, half a second later, you floor it without really ever completely
letting off the gas pedal and the boost builds, but since the bov was
opening, it bleeds it off and your car doesn't accelerate. Then you
completely let off the pedal and nail it again and your car behaves
normally. Is this a correct diagnosis? Can it be resolved? Does this
have to do with the cam angle/positioning sensor? This problem is still
occurring with my car on occassion. I just wanted to make a suggestion to
get the head-wheels moving to try and figure this thing out. I'd like to
sound educational when I take it to the dealer some day so they can fix it.
Shawn Murphy
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 11:43:41 EST
Subject: cats and chicks
Message-ID: <#83>
I use a test pipe because I use race gas. I'd love to use a cat for many
reasons: quiter exhaust, less emissions, no fines from you know who, only
race occasionally. However, leaded race gas can "poison" a cat and it can
clog it up... since there really isn't a quick and easy way to swap them (I
have my test pipe welded in because the flanges w/gaskets kept leaking all
the time) I stick with the test pipe.
I've spent some time trying to design a set-up that would let me swap back
and forth between routing the exhaust through the cat for street driving or
through a dump tube of some sort for the track.
A few problems arise. If you simply open a dump tube (like the kind sold by
Jegs and Summit, a Y piece with a cap on one end) a lot of exhaust will exit
that way, but some of the leaded exhaust will still go through the cat. That
will eventually ruin the cat, and the noise level is immense because there is
no muffler at all under that situation.
If there was a way to completely seal off the "cat-path" and direct 100% of
the flow through an alternative path around the cat and back into the exhaust
system and eventually through the muffler, I'd go for that. I can get the
exhaust piping for the bypass route around the cat, but the valving is what
I'm having a hard timing finding... especially in the 3" diameter.
Didn't the 3000GT's come with a "tuneable" exhaust that had some type of
butterfly valve to open and close exhaust pipes or something? I'm sure that
was the first part to go on someones modded 3000GT. Something like that
might work in this situation.
On to another topic. I just finished flipping through the new 97 Shootout
pics and wow, it was a nice trip down memory lane. I can't wait for the 98
Shootout.
The funny part was when I ran across the "Chika1,2,3.jpg" files... I also took
some pictures of that same person. My girlfriend was very pissed when she
found those pics, :).
I still have a transfer case (92-94), a 1g intake manifold, and two 1g
crushed blow-off valves for sale. E-mail me.
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:20:47 -0800
Subject: Synchro differences
Message-ID: <#84>
Many people have not understood the difference between the older "paper"
synchros and the newer "brass" ones, so I grabbed the synchros off of
Rick's dining room table (you KNOW he's a gearhead, rebuilding the tranny
in the apt instead of the garage) and took a pic:
http://www.vfaq.com/proj-pics/synchros-01.jpg
Note the top one is the old paper synchro - it is almost entirely brass
except for the inner bearing surface, which is pressed paper. Once this
paper wears out, it allows the synchro to wobble slightly, and it can the
wear out the gear it fits into (contrary to the belief that the synchro
teeth wear, Rick's tranny had no synchro teeth wear, the gear teeth were
badly worn). The bottom brass synchro is solid brass, with surface
texturing to hold the fluid in the gap.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 12:53:50 -0600
From: Todd Streed <[email protected]>
Subject: Diesels
Message-ID: <#85>
>Could never figure out why anyone would buy a
>diesel luxobox...
This is a little, well...alot off topic, but you asked. Four reasons to buy a
diesel:
1) They run forever. Especially the Benz
2) They are very reliable.
3) Overall maintenance costs are lower.
4) They get better gas milage.
If I were looking to hold a non-sports ('cause, lets face it, diesels aren't
exactly peppy) car for an extended period, I would without question buy a
diesel.
Todd
91 TSI AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:00:18 -0600
From: "Michael A. Stegbauer" <[email protected]>
Subject: dealer plug
Message-ID: <#86>
Just one more to get a quote from...
[email protected], 508-771-4412 (John Cooke at Corson Jeep/Eagle in
Mass).
They seem to give 25% or better discount on everything, they even sold me the
oil cap gasket for $1.09. They charge _actual_ shipping charges too!
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 13:54:29 EST
Subject: War Story
Message-ID: <#87>
Hey Guys
Well, fellow DSMr Steve Mcdonnel went out to the local import meeting here in
Tampa Sat night. Steve's Eclipse is in the body shop so he rode shotgun with
me. As usual there was the usually overabundance of Hondas and ole school
Mazdas. Of the over 100 cars there were maybe 7 DSMs. Of these there was an
interesting NT covererted to Turbo Laser RS.
After leaving the "car show" we raced across the bay at 100mph+ to
Clearwater
where the racing goes down. I gotted bummed since I bent a rim on a huge
pothole left over from the recent rains. The racing didnt last long since the
cops showed up and we had to do a Lemans-style sprint back to the car to
head
over to next spot. There a few races went down before the cops showed up
again. On our way to next place we lined up at a stoplight beside a red 4.6
Ford <name ommited> with Momo rims. His friends were behind us yelling,
"Take
Him" "Get that A- -" and other stupidness. It didn't help since when the light
turned green the AWD backed with 18psi put two car lengths on him before I
crossed the intersection. I slowed and waited for him but I guess he was
already too embarrassed to run again. I guess he should've spent the $1000 on
a supercharger instead of Momos. Then an older 5.0 Ford <name ommitted>
pulled
out from behind him trying to uphold the <name ommitted> honor. I floored it
again and started putting a few car-lenghts on him before he too gave up.
The next spot was pretty dead so we decided to head home. Besides it was
after
1 am and our women were at home already mad at us. Driving away I noticed
the
crushed BOV started sounding a bit too good. I pulled over at the gas station
and found the discharge hose had flown off sice I left the clamps off after a
recent mod attempt. I thought this made for a nice mod on its own. Good idle
and driveabilty with it on but without clamps, all it takes is a 18psi shift
and it flies off leaving the BOV to vent to the atmosphere and the engine to
lean out a little by getting some extra air. I put the hose back on headed
off.
Driving up Dale Mabry I saw a Canary Yellow C4 Corvette with spoiler/skirts,
and lowered with rims. He pulled out in front of me after leaving the renowned
Mons Venus <cough, couch> club. I eased up behind it and before Steve could
finish saying "wouldn't a stoplight be nice now" viola, the light turns red
right in front of the "Big Sombrero" where the Bucs play. Steve didn't think
he would race but I figured I'd take no chances. I switched the Poor Mans
Profec back to 18psi and checked the rearview mirror for the "Man". I brought
the revs up to 5k and watched the light. It turned green and I leaped out a
full car length. I walked away from him except during shifts he made up a few
inches. He layed off and we braked for another light. Steve began taunting him
out the window while I hid behind his line of sight since you never know who's
strapped. The light turned green unexepected and I bogged while the Vette's
auto let let him jump out. I started reeling him in till he slowed for
traffic. We got to a next light where I lined up beside a older 80 Corolla GTS
with a tach that was so big I could read it from my car. I guess he needed it
see how slow he was. The vette was a car behind at the light but the Corolla
revved like he wanted to run. The light turned green and I left it standing
still at the light. I looked in the rear view after shifting to second and saw
the Vette had broke loose of traffic and was looking for some more. I guess
the Nox from my testpipe left him silly in disbelief that he lost to a
4-banger. I slowed waiting for the Vette and Toyota but once they were a few
carleghts back I floored it again leaving them behind.
Overall it wasn't a bad night but I had trouble explaining to girlfriend the
next morning that we spent hours out but never went anywhere. I guess you
need
to own a DSM to appreciate all the fun you can have with just a can of octane
boost.
Mario
Porsche Killer
90 Talon Tsi AWD 112k
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 14:46:45 PST
From: "Bill Kircher" <[email protected]>
Subject: GVR4 trans interchangeability
Message-ID: <#88>
Need help quick!
Lunched my trans (GVR4 1991/2000) last week.
Is there interchangeability with other AWD DSMs? What years?
Any/All help greatly appreciated.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 14:52:11 -0500
Subject: Replys for the last week of digest
Message-ID: <#89>
Re: jerk drivers
Damn strait!
My sister is one of the worst drivers I have ever ridden with, it is
almost like she is angry at the peddles and is trying to punish them by
stomping them. She has been in more accidents than any other member of
my family and it is a wonder she is still alive.
Smoooooooth is where it's at people!
Re: plastic body cars
>This is not new, remember the Fiero. All plastic body panels.
Steve, the difference is that this is a THERMO-plastic. If you get the
car next to a burning building it will warp and melt like a piece of
Tupperware!
Re: Mass screw
>Just wondering - do Satan's mechanics ever use the phrase,
>"I don't know"? Or is being a master bull$h!tter a pre>requisite for the job?
Being a master bull$h!tter is a prerequisite! I had a mechanic tell me
that I needed to have my injectors cleaned "because a turbo pipes
exhaust gasses back into the intake for more power"! I knew this was a
load of horse-$h!t and just nodded my head like I was brain damaged and
left as soon as I could escape.
Re: pressure
psia = Pounds per square inch absolute...this is the pressure inside a
container (flask, engine, whatever) as compared to a vacuum.
psig = Pounds per square inch gauge...this is the pressure in a sealed
container as compared to outside atmospheric pressure. This is what we
use when adjusting boost.
If you have a glass full of air and you put a lid on it, it has 14.7
psia in it (assuming you are at sea level) or 0 psig.
Sorry about the long post, but had a lot of digest to catch up on,
PS: Todd I will be gone for the next 3 or 4 months how do I unsubscribe
to the HTML-digest?
[Same as the other digest, just use [email protected]
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 98 13:47:45 -0600
From: "ROBERTC"<[email protected]>
Subject: AWD dyno questions
Message-ID: <#90>
Been doing some blue-skying about the feasibility of a trailer
mounted awd dyno.
Looking at the Dyno-jet homepage, the concept behind the
mechanical portion of a dyno is pretty basic. For an awd dyno
extend the concept a little: A couple of rollers on
appropriately sized axles and bearings, one fixed, one moveable,
the necessary framing to load and support the vehicle, and
pickups (optical or electrical) to measure roller speeds, one for
rpm, and a little programming to convert it to a HP value.
A coworker here in the Houston area builds trailers as a side
hobby/job. Here in "good ole boy" land, it wouldn't be too
difficult to find one of my company's vendors who could
manufacture the rollers at a reasonable cost. Certainly, it
could be done for at least what Dyno-jet is asking for theirs, if
not less.
(The whole reason I started thinking about this is that the wife
and I are going to sell a small business of ours and we were
thinking about other business opportunities.)
I realize this is pretty simplistic, but hey, why not? Now, not
ever having had my car on a dyno, I'm sure I'm missing something.
So, market research 101 - Is there a demand for something like
this among awd owners? (I drive a gs-t unfortunately.) Is it as
simple as it appears? Potential obstacles? Engineering
challenges?
Thoughts, comments, and flames are always welcome, if nothing
else to stir up some discussion.
Reply to [email protected], if not to digest.
Thanks,
Robert
'96 GS-T
36,000 and never a problem!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:00:02 -0800
Precedence: list
[Not sure if this will get out tonight - the whole area
lost Phase A of the power grid, so I'm on the UPS right
now. Hopefully, it will last long enough... -talon mgr]
Today's Topics:
1) Corbin Behnken
Air/Fuel gauge [2g][NT]
2) Andreas Santoso
Jiffy Lube
3) ECBLUZE
high flow cat
4) Jason
Cheap pop-up parts
5) Victor DelCol-YEGR07 RE: Vibration only during acceleration???
6) Robert Arrowood
Rich or not
7) JDusio
Possible tranny fix
8) JON ROBERTS
Tranny For Sale
9) AWD20L
<1g, AWD> 3000GT VR4 brakes
10) T. Tate
Last One... 1994 Laser Brochure
11) Andre Dault
[T AWD] my clutch replacement
12) jim
tech manuals
13) N.B.Camene
2G T FWD Rotors and pads???(HELP!!!)
14) The4Bangr
OOOOOPPPPSSSS, TOOOO MANY TURBOS
15) Rene Vaughan
Updated for you viewing pleasure
16) Mike K
Torque on a 1.8, and Grey Carpet for a 1G
17) SpeedRacer
wanted: rollcage for GVR4, other parts
18) Corey Kaye
Talon's Demise, what happens in Canada...
20) John Werner x25054 Re: Galant VR4 For Sale
21) Snakeyes2
DSM's in the 24 Hours of Daytona
22) Btalont
exhaust toxins....
23) james oxley
Cat and race gas
24) Byers, Brian
JT&T SpiralMax Turbo Air Twister
25) Dennis Grant
Backpressure Myths, Cats, and Some Nifty New Info
26) Btalont
Fuel economy...
27) Rory Martin
HP figures: cat versus no cat
28) The4Bangr
KYB's and Nitto's
29) Tome
Re: fighting
30) John J. McGowan
Hit and Run.
31) John Smith
Hank's Crash
32) mkline
RE: Sarcasm;Chrysler; Cats (long)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
42)
43)
Mike Montalvo
2g ignition, Poly bushings, fuel trim
Kurt
Electrical Gremlins
Brett
re: Illegal cat (LONG, full of info)
Benjamin Peck
I want a hi-flo cat group purchase...
Robert Deis
Lifter Tick Problems/Solutions
guillermo_polo
Import Event at Firebird Raceway in Phoenix Arizon
Devil Bat
Revving Retards!
Juan Laguna [ESRI-Re Questions on additive - Militec?
Farzaan Kassam
Various.
Tom Balon
[1G,AT,T] Timing Belt Broke/Valves Sticking
ATL Computer Service Re: [2G] 95 cd changer in 98, and 98 ABS
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:18:27 +1200
From: Corbin Behnken <[email protected]>
Subject: Air/Fuel gauge [2g][NT]
Message-ID: <#1>
I have a feeling that this question has been asked a million and a half
times but I can't find an answer. I NEED to know which wire to connect to
to get the O2 sensor output for an A/F gauge. I searched the archives and
found alot of questions alot like mine but no helpful answers. From what
I've gathered there is a bundle of wires in spiral plastic wrap coming out
of the firewall in the passenger side footwell [found two of those]. Now
the O2 sensor wire is supposed to be a loose wire, with a female spade
connector on the end, taped to a bundle of wires. This is all supposed to
take place where the firewall meets the right side of the car [can't find
the spade connector]. Someone else wrote about a thick green sheilded wire
with a black and a white wire in it [the white being the O2 sensor output]
I can't find that green wire either. I would really appreciate any
guidance that someone can provide. Maybe I can tap into a wire in the
engine compartment [don't know which wire] I know I don't need this gauge,
but I've gone and built it and I've got to make use of it now. I really
need some help with this. Later,
Corbin
'95 ESI [that wants to be put back together]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 15:26:35 -0800
From: Andreas Santoso <[email protected]>
Subject: Jiffy Lube
Message-ID: <#2>
I want to cast a caution notes on Jiffy Lube. I brought my car to
Northgate's Jiffy Lube (for those in Seattle) to have them do their 4x4
service on the car, namely changing all the fluid in the drivetrain.
Then, "mistake" I went to the near grocery cause I was with my gf at the
time and didn't want her to have to wait there. I was back in about 45
min to get the car, and drove away...couple days later, while
tinkering with the car in the garage, I just realized that my open
wrench and rachet with all the bits (they are in a case) are
gone...surprised and confused I tried to track the where abouts of
them. I realized that I was still using the tools the day when I went to
Jiffy Lube. My gf also assured me that we had never open the trunk since
then...
So, went back to Jiffy Lube and have a little talk with the service
manager, all while gf stay in the car (park in the lot with its back
facing the service bays). The manager said to me why I didn't tell him
sooner that I had lost some parts. I was now angry caused he is like
trying to get smart... so I pressed down that the tools should not be
missing in the first time. So, he agreed to replace the cost of tools
replacement (I bought some real nice new ones from NAPA- close to $90).
When I went to the car, my gf said that she saw the workers at Jiffy
Lube did another scam...
Two of them, looking around making sure nobody's seeing, opened the
trunk of a car (since when do you need ot open the trunk to change oil?)
and went thru the many-2 shopping bag with Nordstorm, etc... name on
them...MAN! These monkeys don't know any better. But I got my money back
so I just drive out from their lot...disgusted. The lesson here, if you
really need to get any service at any place like this is to stick to
your car all the time. And do the grocery later...sigh!
Andre
91 GVR4
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:12:20 EST
Subject: high flow cat
Message-ID: <#3>
Hi all just wanted to respond to Stans post about high flow cats. I don't
belive any of the 2g's have an air tube in the cat (I know mine dosent) I have
a 3" system going into my car on wed. or thurs. including a 3" high flow
cat.It certainly won't flow as well as a test pipe but I would rather pass
inspection (around the n.y.c. area it is a pain the a$$) I will let you know
about the check engine light after its all in the car.As for the Products for
Power hi flo cat I just cant see how they can sell a good quality cat for
$100.00 or less so I would stay away from that.
Eric Cavalieri
96 Tsi Fwd
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 16:18:54 -0800
From: [email protected] (Jason)
Subject: Cheap pop-up parts
Message-ID: <#4>
Recently, the ball and socket joints on one of my pop-up headlights
wore out. This caused the bone-shaped linkage to keep popping off, and
the light to come crashing down. The dealer quoted me $18 ea., and I
would have to wait a week. I was tired of holding the arm on with
zip-ties, so I went to the local cheapo junkyard. I knew I wouldn't find
any T/E/Ls, but most electrical parts are shared between the Japanese
automakers. ( I believe Mitsubishi, Nippon-Denso, and Hitachi are the
manufacturers for parts on many makes and models ) Any ways, I found the
parts on a mid 80's Toyota Celica. The motor assemblies looked the same
too. They even let me have the parts for free since they were nothing
major.
Hows that for a cheap fix?
Jason, '90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:03:47 -0600
Subject: RE: Vibration only during acceleration???
Message-ID: <#5>
Vibration "only" during acceleration is an indication of a drive shaft joint
problem. (As apposed to tire balance)
Never had this problem with my Talon but have seen this with bad drive
shaft parts on older RWDs. I could see a CV joint doing this too.
Victor
95 Talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 18:22:18 -0600
Subject: Rich or not
Message-ID: <#6>
Hello Fellas!
I think I have a problem but don't really know what I am looking for.
This relates to a 1990 Talon AWD. The car appears to be running
extremely rich by some gauges and OK by others. At 75mph, my exhaust
temp use to register around 1200F sampled just below the flange, on the
downpipe at, the O2 housing. I thought that was pretty normal based on
other Digestee input. It now measures 800F at the same speed, but may
peak to 950F depending on the grade of the road. I thought my A/F
gauge was slow and my gas mileage had dropped a couple of points, so I
figured bad O2 sensor and the ECU was compensating by enriching the
mixture. New O2 was installed and the temp still hangs around 800F.
I have Technomotive ECU mods and have been watching the timing advance
gauge. Todd had indicated that the -7=10degrees and 14=40+degrees,
right Todd? Based on what I have seen in the service manual, after
setting the timing to 5BTDC, the ECU bumps that to 10BTDC at idle. So,
my gauge should read -7 when fully warmed. I have been noticing that
after the car has been running for awhile w/ occasional high boosting,
the timing would not be stable and the gauge will occasionally drop to
the bottom and stay there for awhile, sometimes it doesn't move from
that spot. When this happens the engine will almost die, timing comes
back up, sometimes as high as 30degrees while idling, engine recovers
(sometimes it dies) and then we repeat the cycle. I have observed the
A/F gauge and it may blip up a little, stay on the lean side or even go
all the way rich and hold for a minute during this cycling. When
cruising, timing will reach just below or sometimes right on the 14.
When I lift off the throttle, it will flip all the way up on the gauge
to 14 momentarily, about one second. At the same time the A/F goes to
one red light on the rich side. Foot off throttle, the timing sits
somewhere in the middle, around 30degrees. When I floor it, the timing
gets retarded (no not dumb), I thought that at full throttle it (ECU)
would advance the timing. Todd could you explain?
[It is true that timing should advance with RPMs... for a normally
aspirated engine. However, the extra air you are shoving into the
cylinder with the turbo dictates less timing. I'm not quite sure
about the physics behind it, but the mixture will light off faster
when you shove more air into the cylinder. Thus, the ECU must retard
the spark firing.
Your car sounds pretty normal, except that it seem to have quite
a bit of trouble holding a good idle speed. This can be caused by
many things from a sticking ISC valve to semi-clogged injectors.
Just for kicks, I would set the timing back to 5 degrees and
see if the idle gets any better. It might just be a minor
side-effect of fooling the ECU. Let us know how that goes.
BTW, the ECU is trying to idle at around 5 degrees. But you are
forcing the sensor to lie to the ECU. You have changed the point
of timing reference for the ECU. So you are wrong about the meter
showing up at -7. The ECU will still try to set the timing a bit
lower than that, where the ECU believes 5 degrees is. The ECU is
not reading absolute timing.
-talon mgr]
I just put a Buschur 3" catback on. It has been on maybe two weeks and
that nice chrome tip is BLACK!
No codes are being set by the ECU.
Questions:
1. Any ideas? I mean, is something wrong here or am I just being too
cautious?
2. Could the CAM Sensor (is that what it is called?) be bad and not
set a code? Does it even set a code?
3. Could a bad timing belt install cause all this weirdness?
4. Any ideas? Just thought I would ask again just in case...
TIA
Robert - 1990 Talon AWD - XCLRATN
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:22:01 EST
From: JDusio <[email protected]>
Subject: Possible tranny fix
Message-ID: <#7>
I have recently purchased a 92 talon AWD Turbo. Upon purchase I notice not
only a stiff transitional state between gears but syncro binding and a crunch
into second gear - especially when cold. ( I know this is not news to any of
you)
I have taken it upon myself to find the problems involved with this tranny.
I first contacted Japan to get there formal answer to this problem.
Second I have taken my talon to a man who builds race car transmissions to
use
his expertise to build me a strong useful enjoyable manualy tranny out of what
we were given .
Thirdly I have contacted every manufacturer of friction modifier and
transmission treatment I have had experience with and some I haven't.
I get the car back tommorow and have included my first reponse from QMIThis
company produces real top of the line pure teflon products (not TV stuff).
I will try these modifiers if my transmission seems to continue to have
problems. if it is fixed the repairer has agreed to provide me with a good
description of what it is he did. and I will pass any of that info on.
If you have used any transmission friction modifiers PLEASE let me know of
youre results here on the digest or at [email protected]
Thanks (Deuce)
Dear John,
Thanks for your e-mail -- it's always good to hear from our long-time
QMI customers. Regarding your '92 Eagle Talon and the Mitsubishi
transmission shift block and crunching shifts:
I spoke with a Mitsubishi tech who recalls a service bulletin cautioning
against use of GL5 gear oils in Mitsubishi transmissions with fibrous
synchronizer backings found in some models. However, this doesn't
explain the problem you reference -- friction modifiers not doing the
job, drying up after 10K miles, etc., and the resulting shifting
problems.
John, I've been around too long and am not naive enough to claim QMI as
a cure-all. (I've worked with PTFE treatments full-time since '81, owned
Cat and Cummins powered semis, etc.) While I cannot guarantee that QMI
will eliminate design or inadequate friction modifier related shift
block and crunching shifts, I can guarantee that QMI's PTFE treatment
will provide your much needed friction reduction, as proven through
years in industrial applications worldwide and lab tests, and may well
eliminate your shifting problem in the process.
A strength of QMI treatments is that these products do not alter the
critical properties of fluid lubricants, they only treat metal-to-metal
friction surfaces where friction reduction is needed. For example, with
1) metal-to-fiber friction surfaces and with 2) typical synchronizers:
1. Metal-to-fiber friction surfaces such as fiber backed synchronizers,
limited slip differential disks, automatic transmission clutch disks and
bands, etc. -- QMI's PTFE treatments are designed to treat
metal-to-metal friction surfaces. QMI's SX-6000 bonding agents are
activated by metal-to-metal opposing mechanical action. Therefore, QMI
provides friction reduction for gears, bearings, etc, without causing
slippage of these metal-to-fiber surfaces.
2. Synchronizers with no fiber backing -- constant sustained friction is
needed to achieve bonding of the PTFE. Since synchronizers grab and
release, the friction phase is brief (not constant sustained) and no
fusion of PTFE occurs. No increased synchronizer slippage occurs after
applying QMI.
(You have my approval to distribute this information to the DSM owners
club.)
Sincerely yours,
Owen Heatwole
Vice President, Technical Services
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:25:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Tranny For Sale
Message-ID: <#8>
<RTP>
91 Galant VR4 Tranny. Has 100,000 miles on it. It makes some noise around
65 mph and has been doing it for around 40,000 miles. Shifts very well
and only problem is the noise it makes. I would probably rebuild it
but I can't afford to not have my car working. The tranny will fit a
1st generation DSM just fine. The GVR4 tranny has a taller 1st gear than
a dsm but not by much.
asking $500 and you pay the shipping.
Jon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 19:23:48 EST
Subject: <1g, AWD> 3000GT VR4 brakes
Message-ID: <#9>
[RTP]
Hi everybody, I know I read this in the digest a while back but I just could
not find who did the mods on their car. I'm interested in installing the
3000GT VR4 brakes onto my 92' AWD and was wondering if it would work. Here
are
some of the questions I encounter for brake gurus. The brakes I'm looking at
is off a TT Spyder which has 17" rims, does that means all I need is 17" rims
for clearance? I read somewhere that it requires some machine work on the
calipers before it work on my car, is it difficult to machine the calipers?
Can I use an ABS specs rotors and calipers on a non-ABS car? Lastly, what are
all the parts needed so that it is going to fit my 1st Gen AWD? Thanks.
Lee
92' TSI AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 20:08:14 -0500
Subject: Last One... 1994 Laser Brochure
Message-ID: <#10>
Well Everybody,
It's down to the LAST ONE. The final and only factory brochure that I'm
missing from having all years Talon/Eclipse/Laser is the:
1994 LASER
PLEASE... If anyone has a 1994 Laser factory brochure that they are
willing to loan me to scan (no harm will befall it, I promise),
I will return it with a CD containing all years T/E/L factory brochures.
This is like running out of gas on lap 499 in the Indy 500!
Many thanks to all who have sent or are in the process of sending, the
other model/years brochures. I'll post a DIGEST message thanking you all
by name in the near future.
Come on LASER owners (1994 especially) don't let us down!
Tim Tate
90 Eclipse GS [NT]
93 Talon Tsi [as of 1/17/98]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 22:21:00 -0500
From: Andre Dault <[email protected]>
Subject: [T AWD] my clutch replacement
Message-ID: <#11>
Hello all...
Well this is a post on my little experience with my clutch
replacement...
I did the work over the x-mas vacations... I got to tell you it was
quite the adventure... I had never taken such a mechanical task head on
before... Well I stared slow, removing all the parts following the FAQ.
I encountered my first problem with one of the tie rod ends... Got it
off with a tie rod fork, riped the boot... Everything was smooth up to
there... Then it came time to the tranny. Well lets just say seven
hours later we finaly got it out... Ended up having to remove both
axels from the tranny, the mount on the tranny (with ABS it's quite the
pane). Now I installed the new ACT clutch and throwout bearing... Now
it cam time to put the tranny back in... well another seven hours later
we finnaly got the tranny in... To do so I ended up removing the
radiator house so that I don't damage it... Having both drive axels out
I noticed the the outer CV boots were beginning to tear so I got them
replaced... Now after having gone and bought one tie rod end and
replacing it I moved over to the passenger side and noticed that the
tie rod end on that side was also torn (must of been before hand because
it had just fallen out) I also had to retap the threads in the engine
block for the bolts that hold in the bearing for the driver side drive
shaft... Now after having put everything back together I came to put
it into gear and the clutch was still engaged... Well I ended up having
to adjust the clutch under the dash... Now that the adjustment is maxed
out my clutch engages about a half inch from the floor. Well all I have
to say is that it was quite the adventure and I fiannly have a new clutch
and I'm verry satisfied with the ACT clutch... I got the 2500lb one and
I was woried that it was going to be to much but within a week I was
used to the higher pressure...
While I had the car apart I also took the time to change the ISC... Well
actually I bought a TB from a wreking yard for $100 CDN (not too bad)
and chnged the coil that was burnt because the plastic was broken on the
replacement ISC...
Well enough rambling I got the job done and it was quite informative on
what goes on under that hood. A few notes before leaving:
1) how the hell do you get that tranny out/in? The back end where the
transfer case attaches kept getting caught in the frame... Even once
installed there was about half an inch of space between the frame and the
tranny... I just wondering if this is right...
2) When I came to change the outer CV boots I look in the service manual
and noticed that you can't change the outer without taking apart the inner
CV boot... Now I did not want to be bothered with it after spending a few
days on the tranny so I got it done by a shop... Well this guy did the work
without even touching the iner CV boot. Has anyone ever changed there CV
boots... Whats is involved in dis-asembling the outer CV boot that they
tell you in the shop manual not to do it?
3) ever scince I changed the ISC motor My idle had been better but a little
weird... From what I understand it's an open loop system. Well my car now
works kinda weird. The car idles at about 1300 rpm but if I give I a shot
of gas the idle comes back down to 750 rpm (sometimes) Whats up with this?
Anyways enough rambling...
Andre
'92 Talon TSi AWD
PS: see you all at the shootout
PSS: hope I don't have to change my clutch again soon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:21:11 -0500
From: jim <[email protected]>
Subject: tech manuals
Message-ID: <#12>
Hello all
I am lookin to find out who had the 1g tech manuals for sale or some one
who has one who would sell me a copy I may have found a cheap easy way
to get a true knock indicator for our cars (will actually give a
light/beep upon knock over a certain duration)
anyone who may know something would be greatly apreaciated thanks
Jim Craig
GOT_RICED gvr4 #391/1k
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 00:02:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: 2G T FWD Rotors and pads???(HELP!!!)
Message-ID: <#13>
Okay. Quick question. I am hearing this really annoying squealing noise from
my front left wheel. I first thought that it was one of those damn
Vietnamese Potbelly pigs running next to my car trying to get to the Whopper
I was eating until I realized I was doing 60 MPH. Now I assume that it is my
friends the rotors and pads telling me they need to be replaced. If this is
true please let me know. I looked at the pads with the wheel off and they
look okay? I do quite a bit of racing at the track and the car(96) has
around 40k miles.
Also I was wondering if any 2G's have replaced their rotors and pads
and what they have gone with and if they were happy. Please RTP and let me
know which combination of these two I should go with. PLEASE I beg you be
quick in responding this squealing is annoying me. I need to do this by the
end of the week. So my friends once again it is up to your advice that I
make my decision on.
Thanks :)
Nick
Valu Jet
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 01:25:39 EST
Subject: OOOOOPPPPSSSS, TOOOO MANY TURBOS
Message-ID: <#14>
Hi all,
Well there has been a big mistake made, I got WAY too many turbos here. The
order was suppose to be split into thirds for a large buy in of turbos and
they were sent all at once. I was not expecting a bill this large. So you
guys can benefit. I have to get rid of at least half of them. So here is the
deal. I have a sale on 16G's. I will do this:
16G clipped and re-balanced no port, $750
16G ported and clipped, $800
16G 2nd generation turbo kits, non ported $1025, ported $1075
This should get rid of them fairly quickly.
As always I will pay the shipping too.
Thanks guys,
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1988 20:33:43 +1300
From: Rene Vaughan <[email protected]>
Subject: Updated for you viewing pleasure
Message-ID: <#15>
Here it is the long and awaited web page all new and updated.
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~rene
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 00:45:28 -0800
Subject: Torque on a 1.8, and Grey Carpet for a 1G
Message-ID: <#16>
I was wondering what would be the Optimal setup for the most off-the-line
power for a 1990 1.8 non turbo. Should I re-do the stock exhaust tubing?
or should I leave it alone, and re-do the muffler only? (I've heard that
re-doing the tubing I will actually LOSE power?)
I was also wondering what options I had for an airfilter. Does akimoto or
any other company make an intake for this car? I allready have a fipk K&N,
but I want something cooler (no pun intended).
I currently have a freeflow (I took out the maf can), and am suffering from
a very rough idle, and rpm's that fluctuate. Will a VPC help this? What
does a VPC do?
Lastly, I spilled a Big Gulp of soda all over my carpet. It's all messed
up. I already had a worn hole in it as well. I was wondering if anyone
had (in good condition) extra grey 1g carpet from their car for sale. Or
if anyone knew a way to get a good deal on this. The dealer's price is far
too high (215.00)
(I bought Eclipse 1g grey floormats for 45.00 today... is this a decent
deal?)
thanks,
Mike Kanaly
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 10:19:41 -0600
Subject: wanted: rollcage for GVR4, other parts
Message-ID: <#17>
I am in the process of finishing up work on my 92 GVR4 (20G, Spearco air
to water IC, PMS, 550s, Crane HI-6, etc). At what 1/4 mile time is a
rollcage mandatory and does anyone know where I can find such a unit
that does not require destruction of my interior? I am also looking for
the Japanese front bumper, clear turn signals, and an EVO IV type of
rear wing seen in Options magazine.
Steve Reiter
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:40:44 -0400
From: "Corey Kaye" <[email protected]>
Subject: Talon's Demise, what happens in Canada...
Message-ID: <#18>
I was talking to one of the Jeep/Eagle dealers here in Halifax Nova Scotia, as
well as some of the reps in Detroit last week (auto show).
What I've herd is that Mitsu was supposed to setup a dealership and head
office for Canada right in your area (Montreal) this spring. We were also
getting a dealership here in Halifax.
The problem is Mitsu. apparently is having trouble meeting US demands and
had
to put off the Canadian Mitsu's. until 1999.
I currently am not the proud owner of an Eclipse GS-T but and very interested
in getting one which is why I first joined the list... I'm looking to have
one imported from the US as long as the local Jeep/Eagle/Chrysler dealers can
do warrantee work and it doesn't cost to much...
.kayec.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 05:53:31 PST
From: [email protected] (John Werner x25054)
Subject: Re: Galant VR4 For Sale
Message-ID: <#20>
>Mitsubishi '91 Galant VR4... (716) 729-2109 days (716) 768-6566.
>The car is in or around Rochester NY.
LeRoy, NY (about 25 miles south west of Rochester). I know the guy.
He is one of the people who helped me find my VR4. I would expect the
car to be in good condition. I as remember, it is the one his wife
was driving. He had a black '92 Galant VR4.
John Werner
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:02:55 EST
Subject: DSM's in the 24 Hours of Daytona
Message-ID: <#21>
while scrolling through the entry list for this year's race I came across a
GSX that will be running in GTS3 aganst the M3, 911 NT, RX7, and some
Camaros
and a Firebird. The number 09 car is being campained by the Spirit of Daytona
race team and is sponsored by Daytona Mitsubishi drivers will be Craig Conway
and Todd Flis, but Im sure there will be more because 2 guys cant do 24 hours.
I will definatly have many pics of this car to scan if I don't use up all the
film on the beloved M3s. Of course with the M3s and the GSX in the same
class
I don't know what to do...
Morgan Smith
91 GVR4 #527
Maybe I'll enter it for the '99 race
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:17:26 EST
Subject: exhaust toxins....
Message-ID: <#22>
>the catalytic converter systems is designed to reduce these
>pollutants
Whoa my friend...you are incorrect! I "couldn't leave this one alone"
either. Let's make sure no one is mislead here.
Catalytic converters do not reduce H2S, HCN or a number of other compounds
you
mentioned. Converters are typically "3 way" units on almost all cars today.
The 3 pollutants the cat deals with are HC (hydrocarbons - unburned), CO
(Carbon Monoxide) and NOX (oxides of nitrogen). It catalizes these by reacting
with oxygen and without oxygen to produce H2O (water... :) ...) and CO2
(carbon
dioxide). Compounds like H2S are formed by the cat from the sulphur in the
fuel. Many other compounds are generated from the combustion of the
multitude
of compounds present in modern gasoline. Gas is a blend of many
hydrocarbons
and compounds that are detergents, octane enhancers, corrosion inhibitors,
oxygenates (MTBE, ETBE, TAME, TABE), etc. A cat only handles a few. This
doesn't include what you generate when you burn some of the engine oil
including heavy metals.
Emission tests, whether stationary or IM240 dyno test only measure for HC and
CO (don't remember if NOX is measured on the IM240) and not all these other
multitude of compounds you mentioned. NOX reduction catalyst technology is
still developing and has to before lean burn technology can be fully
inplemented.
Not a flame, just correcting the facts. I'm not a chemist, I just read a lot.
Brian Hood
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:34:05 -0800
From: james oxley <[email protected]>
Subject: Cat and race gas
Message-ID: <#23>
>If there was a way to completely seal off the "cat-path" and direct 100%
>of the flow through an alternative path around the cat and back into the
>exhaust system and eventually through the muffler, I'd go for that. I
>can get the exhaust piping for the bypass route around the cat, but the
>valving is what I'm having a hard timing finding... especially in the 3"
>diameter.
I have looked into using the valves that boats use for
adjustable "through the hull" vs "through the prop" exh. These come in
3", 4" and bigger sizes. The problem with these is they do not seal
completely (not a major problem) and will not handle our EGT's (major
problem). They are water cooled in boats as engine coolant water just
flows out with the exh.
>Didn't the 3000GT's come with a "tuneable" exhaust that had some type of
>butterfly valve to open and close exhaust pipes or something? I'm sure
>that was the first part to go on someones modded 3000GT. Something like
>that might work in this situation.
I'm sure we could use the exact same valve, but I imagine it is not 3"
on a stock 3000. I wonder if that part has been reverse-engineered for
the replacement market by any american company.
On another note. I wonder if you could modify a racing external WG.
Anyone make a 3" WG.
OX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:32:34 -0600
Subject: JT&T SpiralMax Turbo Air Twister
Message-ID: <#24>
>For anyone with the Feb. Issue of Turbo, on page 138 they have a
>little blurb about this air twister that supposedly "installs in five
>minutes and horsepower and fuel economy is gained".
Noah,
I have one of these and I never really could tell if it did anything for
my car. Actually I never really gave it a chance. I hung on to it too
long and now its just sitting in my room. If you would like to try it,
I'll sell it for $30. Its not a JT&T one, but rather from
http://www.tornadoair.com/ If you or anyone else would like it, please
email [email protected] or [email protected].
Brian, aka Rice Fed - 97 GS-T
-----------------------------Date:
Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:55:56 -0500
Subject: Backpressure Myths, Cats, and Some Nifty New Info
Message-ID: <#25>
>Many have a full three inch exhaust system made, custom. Which
>ultimately causes the small T-25 to fail, due to overspinning and too
>little of backpressure.
*groan*
Repeat after me:
"There's no such thing as backpressure."
What you are talking about is flow capacity, which is in turn related to
aero drag. A large diameter, straight exhaust has a higher flow capacity
and less aero drag than a narrow diameter, convoluted one.
For a turbo car, you can't have too much flow capacity and too little
aero drag downstream of the turbo. (Although it seems that you can have
too much downstream system volume - once a given flow capacity is
reached, further increases in pipe diameter slow down the gas velocity
and may actually reduce system throughput - I'll post once I've done the math)
Turbo speed is governed by the wastegate. If the turbo is overspeeding,
then the wastegate needs attention, not the exhaust system.
Cat converters: The cat converters of 1998 are not the same restrictive
corks that the converters of 1975 were. There's really no excuse for not
running a cat these days.
"But I run race gas, and it kills the cat!" Then talk to your fuel
supplier, and get them to start carrying unleaded race gas. Pro Fuels
make unleaded 110, and I think they have unleaded 117 too. Not only do
you keep your cat healthy, but your O2 sensors live longer as well.
New Stuff: I got a copy of Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost" last week. Run,
do not walk, to the nearest web browser and order this book. TONS of
great information, with a lot of detail placed on intercooler design and
system efficiancy.
I learned a whole buncha great new stuff from this book that I'll be
discussing over the next little while. The upshot is that there's a
whole wack of power lurking in the current setups of the top cars just
waiting to be unlocked. Using what you have efficiantly is the name of
the game.
I only have 2 complaints with the book. I don't think he discusses
pressure maps in enough detail, and he uses that dirty word
"backpressure" to mean "flow capacity". Grr! It's like reading an
engineering textbook that refers to the effects of centrifical force.
Despite this, it's still the best book on turbocharging I've read yet.
Good stuff coming folks...
DG
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:57:04 EST
Subject: Fuel economy...
Message-ID: <#26>
sorry for the second post...
Many have wondered why there is such a desparity of milage experience in
these
cars, especially compared to other cars.
Here are some reasons...
1G cars are 7.8:1 compression ratio...not very efficient off boost, ideal
under boost. That is why 1G cars are not real responsive off boost. Most NA
cars today sport 9,9.5 or 10.0:1 compression or more. They are a better "NA"
motor than our turbo motor can be I.e. more efficient cruising and especially
under WOT. 2G cars have a better 8.5:1 and are more responsive but still not
as efficient as an "NA" motor.
"right foot"...our cars get boost quite easily even under moderate
acceleration. As Todd has noted many times, these cars run rich under boost
unless it's in closed loop. Rich = poorer milage. Every time you stroke the
accelerator, the fuel system goes from sequential to non-sequential injection
and fires all the injectors off at once...like an accelerator pump in a
carburator, which uses fuel. Smooth is more efficient. Under WOT, we run
richer than an NA motor.
FWD's get better milage than AWD's...drivetrain parasitic losses account for
most of this, less so the increased weight.
I have ranged from 27 mpg to 8 mpg. Depending on how you drive, "your milage
may vary".
Briain Hood
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:28:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: HP figures: cat versus no cat
Message-ID: <#27>
As pointed out by several people, keeping a cat helps low-end performance.
Here are some numbers to support that argument; I took them from
"Turbochargers" by Hugh MacInnes, HPBooks 1984, p73:
Rear-wheel HP versus rpm for a 1984 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
(chassis dynamometer)
stock Borla SSS exhaust
rpm exhaust with cat w/o cat
~-------------------------------2000 20
37
29
2500 35
50
41 <-- equal HP @2800rpm (cat/no cat)
3000 48
64
75
3500 70
90
99
4000 78
97
110
4500 120
129
136
5000 129
133
145
>I lived in England for 1.5 years in a fairly small city (Swindon), but
>during rush hour, you can smell the STINK of cat-less cars...
I grew up in Australia and remember when the first cars appeared that were
equipped with catalytic converters. They smelled far =worse= than cars
running on leaded fuel w/o cats. But I think this has more to do with
quality of fuel and sulfur content than whether the car has a cat.
>But the truth of the matter is that
>the miles spent accelerating are far exceeded by the miles spent
>cruising and the time spent idling.
I don't think that miles driven is the correct measure. The amount of
emissions (CO, NOx, HC) released =per unit time= during acceleration far
outweighs emissions at other times. In addition, they're in a highly
concentrated cloud which you, as the driver behind, have to pass through
(think of when someone pulls out right in front of you from a side-street,
then steps on the gas).
>Carbon monoxide is only dangerous in high concentrations over long
>periods of time.
This is false. CO is an ordourless, colourless gas that interferes with
oxygen uptake in the bloodstream. At sufficiently high concentrations it is
lethal (brain cells start dying after only a couple of minutes without
oxygen). At lower concentrations it is still dangerous. My wife treats
people in her practice every day who have health problems due to ingesting
CO from smoking: she can tell from just looking at them, they have a nice
bluish tinge!
In fact, some of the worst toxins are present when you fill up your gas
tank, before you even start your car. Gas vapours contain a number of
carcinogens, which is why gas pumps have a vapour collection system built in
to the nozzle (take a look at the holes in the nozzle's side). But not all
pumps have this feature, so be careful when fueling your car!
Sorry for so much non-dsm content: I promise to be a good boy in future.
Rory
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:32:11 EST
Subject: KYB's and Nitto's
Message-ID: <#28>
What's happening?
I have a full line of KYB gas performance GR-2 struts instock now. The first
generation struts I can sell for $300 for a full set front and rear, includes
shipping out of state no tax. The 2nd generations I can sell the full set
for the front wheel drive for $320, same deal. The 2nd generation AWD's are
$335.
Also for the guys that were interested in the Nitto tires I have the NT450's
(all season performance radials) in 225/50/16's instock now for $125 and the
Nitto Drag Radials NT555R, 225/50/16's for $140 each. These prices also
include shipping to your door.
I think I have posted this already but if not here it is again. I just
finished a deal on some land here in town. I got a lot downtown (if you want
to consider Wakeman downtown;)) and we are hoping to start a new building in
July or August. Once it goes up we will be stocking more Nitto's along with
everything else. We are just out of room here not to mention not having much
room at all for installs. We are installing a Dyno in the new building along
with rooms just for fabricating and engine/trans and turbo assembling. Should
be a very nice place, I wish it could be done intime for the shootout, be nice
to get some of the cars on the dyno, good bragging rights;)
For those of you interested the RWD should be running (not moving) some time
near the end of the month. We have been working like crazy on it. The front
brakes are finished, most of the fuel system is in. The radiator sized front
mount is in. I am waiting on the turbo to come back and then the plumbing
will be done. A few more Aeroquip fittings and the fuel system will be
completely plumbed. I just about have the intakes done for the car. I am
using a sheetmetal intake (as I announced I would be three years ago when the
project started), going to experiment with two or three designs first. The
first two will be done within a week and then go to the dyno, the throttle
body for the car is 70mm along with all the outlet plumbing for the
intercooler, I am figuring the worst design for the intake should give about
20 hp over the stock Extrude honed unit. These are by far some of the
prettiest pieces I have ever done, I will try to post pictures to the WEB site
when they are completely welded.
Take care everybody,
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:17:38 CST
Subject: Re: fighting
Message-ID: <#29>
>Don't get me wrong, a fight would settle this, but it really wouldn't.
>"Meet me at the shootout," was mentioned a
>few times.
Here's an idea for EVERYONE, if you can't be an adult and take an insult
as well as dish it out, then don't bring your bad attitude to a public
event to "settle it". You'll be ruining the fun everyone else is there
for and it won't be appreciated. Here's another idea, grow up if you
don't understand this.
The above is not directed at any one specific person.
I'm going to the Shootout this year. I've been on the list for almost 3
years? and this will be the first shootout I'm going to. I really don't
feel like seeing people settling their differences with fists to faces.
Take it to the track if you have a disagreement and then let it go.
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:13:32 -0600
From: "John J. McGowan" <[email protected]>
Subject: Hit and Run.
Message-ID: <#30>
Sunday, some prick hit my car (97 TSI) when it was parked outside of my
girlfriends house. Since he/she failed to stop and own up to
their mistake, I now have a nice new car with a busted out tail
light lens. Also, since my zero deductible comprehensive doesn't
cover this "collision" I am left with a $500 deductible. The dealer
wants more than 200 bucks for the entire tail light (they don't sell just the
lens)
Here are my questions...
Does anybody know where I can get a tail light lens, or a whole tail light
cheaper than from the dealer (it would have to be a LOT cheaper)
Does anybody know of a place that might sell aftermarket tail light lenses
that I could get for each side.(JC Whitney?)
The last question... Does anybody know of an insurance company with a
"No fault, no deductible" policy. I hate paying for insurance, then having
something like this happen and then having to pay. I wouldn't mind paying a
deductible if *I* did something stupid.
Anyway, if anybody could help that would be great...
Thanks
/John
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 08:31:04 PST
From: "John Smith" <[email protected]>
Subject: Hank's Crash
Message-ID: <#31>
I'm glad I'm not the only one that has been irritated by Hank's
ramblings and bragging on IRC and the Talon Digest.
Ever since Hank first appeared on the digest, I've wondered how a 19
year old college student, working at a home and garden center, can
afford a $20,000 dollar car and probably $6,000 in modifications.
Hank's not only wrecked one car, but two. Long time digest members will
remember that Hank rolled his first Talon into a ditch trying to avoid a
pickup in a 90 degree turn.
In the real world where people have to pay bills, a mortgage, car
insurance, and student loans, we can't afford to total two cars in less
than a year. I can't even begin to imagine how much Hank's insurance
is. A 19 year old male (maybe 20 now) with 2 $20,000 dollar cars
totalled. I'm assuming that his parents pay for his insurance as well.
Hopefully I'm not the only one sick of Hank's bragging. Talking about
his $6,000 dollar computer $2,000 dollar auto stereo system, $3,500
dollar wheels, his champion horse, etc...
I would be the first to admit that I'm jealous of Hank's car. Before
the horse incident I saw it on his web site, and it was a beautiful
machine. Nice racing stripes, big wing, nice dark tint, and beautiful
wheels. It was a machine that anyone would be proud to own.
However, I have a reason to be proud of my 90 Laser. I bought and paid
for it myself. That is more of an accomplishment than having mommy and
daddy hand you a car on a platter, and give you thousands for mods.
So basically what I'm saying is that people who's parents buy their
cars, shouldn't be talking trash in the first place. Hank's two big
accomplishments in life are, "My car is faster than yours because my
daddy gives me a bigger allowance." and, "I've totaled more Talons than
you."
John
90 Laser RS 2.0 non-turbo
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:48:07 -0500
Subject: RE: Sarcasm;Chrysler; Cats (long)
Message-ID: <#32>
RE: IRC Sarcasm; Hank's Accident thread
Hank: Good response to all that horse crap (no pun intended). It's nice
to see that you could step back from the argument, look at it objectively,
and respond in a civilized manner.
RE: Chrysler lemon law case update (ALL)
>Now I have to start looking for another car, any ideas. I am looking for
>something used, I don't need a new car at school.
Sure. How about a nice Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX?
RE: Catalytic converter thread
If I have to hear anyone else tell me how we all have to breathe the air on
this planet, I'm going to puke. No $h!t Dick Tracy. Tell that to the
folks at USX who run the coke mill across the river from my house. You
wanna talk about breathing in crap, you should see the soot I have to wipe
off the chairs on the porch whenever I want to sit outside in the summer.
Sometimes the stench from the mill is so bad that we have to close the
windows at night.
And I don't want to hear the typical line telling me how we all have to do
our part and that all the pollution doesn't just come from the
manufacturing industry. Sure cars pollute, but the majority of the driving
public aren't performance enthusiasts running around without cats. Nor are
they driving around in pre-80's "pollution factories." Most people drive
around in their Toyota Camrys, Ford Tauruses, and Dodge Caravans, equipped
with the ergonomic interiors and all of the latest pollution fighting
devices. They buy recycleable plastic at the grocery store, put it in a
biodegradable blue bag, and then put it out for the recycle police to
collect on a weekly basis.
Then it goes to the recycle factory and sits there unused because
manufacturers don't want to buy it since it increases their cost of
manufacturing their goods. But I digress...
The point is, in our everyday life, most of us do enough to contribute to
saving the planet. Thanks to years of pressure from the enviro-nazis, the
government has written it into every aspect of everything we do. We have
the news people warning us of global warming, el nino and "ozone action
days." Don't run your lawnmower, don't burn leaves, don't cut down trees,
don't use styrofoam or plastic, don't throw away your newspapers, cans or
bottles, use reformulated gas, don't use aerosol sprays, don't use your air
conditioner, etc., etc.
I say "Bite me!" If I run my car without a cat (which I don't...yet), am
I abdicating my responsibility to the environment? Possibly. Does it
concern me? Only up to the point that I might get a ticket. Do I think
that the earth's air will become unbreathable in my lifetime because I ran
my car without a cat? Nope. Why would I do it? To get better gas
mileage, gain HP and because if I'm ever in the Washington DC area, maybe
Al Gore's car will be following me on the beltway and he'll choke on my
exhaust.
Just my 2 cents,
Michael Kline
90 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:52:19 -0500
Subject: 2g ignition, Poly bushings, fuel trim
Message-ID: <#33>
[RTP]
Has anyone ever had this problem with a 2G (96 GSX)? I searched the
archives but only found one person that had this problem but the igniter
went completely dead after 200 miles...
The car starts and runs fine when cold. Once it warms up, it still runs
fine. But if you turn it off and try to restart it, it starts running on
only two cylinders (only one coilpack) for about 5 seconds then dies...I
THINK the computer is cutting the power to the fuel pump (I hear it click
off just before the car dies) because it idles so low. It will continue to
do this unless you let the car sit for a while, then it will start fine...
Could anyone that has changed all the suspension bushings to polyurethane
e-mail me on how they got the old ones out? I bought the rear and front
set, but there are pieces in the rear set that I can't figure out where
they go. Energy suspension doesn't give you any instructions.
Todd, on the subject of Block learn compensation. Out of curiosity, do you
have a way to read the fuel trim table, (obviously the ECU would have to be
still in the car.) to see if it is at its maximum compensation?
[Yes, my datalogger does that. -talon mgr]
Thanks in advance
Mike Montalvo
90 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:12:04 -0700
From: Kurt <[email protected]>
Subject: Electrical Gremlins
Message-ID: <#34>
Heya. I have a strange little problem with my 91 Tsi. I was poking
around in my dash, I had it all apart (for no real reason other than I
was bored). No problem there. BUT (and you knew there was a "but")
now, I have this funky little problem. First, my fog light switch won't
light up. It still works, it just doesn't illuminate at night, like it
did BEFORE I started screwing around. It POSSIBLY may be the bulb, but
I don't think so, do to the other problem I had which started at the
same time.
Now my dome light (which I have currently turned off), my underdash
lights, the little illuminated ring around the ignition switch, and the
seatbelt light on the dash (by the gauges) all light up seemingly
sporadically (spl?). They're ok until I hit some bump or slam the door,
or some vibration, then they go off (and on and off and on...), which
leads me to believe I have something grounding out somewhere, but
where? Is there anything grounded to the dash or something that I
should know about? I haven't had time to check the fuse (is there a
fuse for those?), but I'm inclined to think it's NOT the fuse, because
the lights flicker on and off (and on...).
I would appreciate any help, this is QUITE annoying. Thanks a bundle.
Kurt Widdows
MuddTsi on IRC
91 Talon Tsi
91 Eclipse 1.8
(but I fixed everything else that broke yesterday =)
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Tue, 20 Jan 1998 09:28:36 -0800
Brett <[email protected]>
Subject: re: Illegal cat (LONG, full of info)
Message-ID: <#35>
>To those of you who ARE part of the problem, I hope officer
>friendly pulls you over and tickets you. You deserve it! Get a clue
>people, we only have one earth.
And in the same respect I hope you get a ticket every time you go over the
speed limit, coast through a stop sign, and every other infraction I hope
you are crucified for. IN FACT, STOP DRIVING A CAR if you're so up there.
Get off your high horse. Nobody is perfect, and if you say you are better
than me, it only makes you a hypocrite AND a liar.
First the facts:
1. For a Cat to work properly, it must be heated to proper temperature. On
the average car this takes 20-25minutes. MAYBE because we run a turbo, and
tend to run a little hotter, it takes our cars 15-20. TRYING to give
benefit of doubt here. My drive to the office every day is 10-15 minutes.
You drive to the office, let the car cool for 8-10 hours (or 12-14 if you
are me).
Q: What good does the cat do in short trip driving situations?
A: NONE.
2. The cat's primary design was to catalyze the bad air under city idle
conditions, and under load. Most cars that are tuned properly cruise on the
freeway without creating any more emissions without a cat, than they do
with. In fact, with the extra free flow, they probably create less per mile
from the performance increase.
Q: What good does the cat do under freeway cruise conditions?
A: LITTLE OR NONE.
3. Smog (so-called emissions from our evil machines) is a volumetric amount
of gasses, and the limit of the gasses is based on engine size, and what
level of these gasses the car year specification said the car was required
to meet. This means based on our 2liter capacity, we are allowed to create
"Y amount of emissions." My 1995 car is required to create less than a
1990. In this same light, Our arch enemies the Pony-Cars (Rustang and
Bomaro), have a 5.7liter displacement and are allowed to create roughly
TWICE the number of emmisions or (Y x 2). It's not a flat scale, as the
size of the displacement increases, the amount of emissions reduces per liter.
(NOTE) If you wanna go after someone to crucify, go after the SUV drivers.
They have cars that get 12-18mpg. This is about a third to a half of what I
get on the same gallon of gas, thereby creating LESS THAN HALF of what they
do. EVEN WITHOUT the cat, I am willing to bet the numbers are still less
than what they produce.
Q: How much am I polluting the air without a CAT on my 2liter vs. how much
a typical pushrod V8 is creating?
A: MUCH LESS SO YOU TREE-HUGGERS GO OUT AND CHASE SUV'S IN CITY
LIMITS WITH
PICKET SIGNS. (Just a note, an incredible amount of trees were killed to
make picket signs during the 70's. THAT IS HYPOCRITICAL!)
4. Different year cars are allowed different levels of emissions. If you
wanted to CORRECT a problem you would allow a per-capita amount of
emissions
for each person REGARDLESS of the vehicle they drove. If these emissions
could be calculated as wonderfully as the EPA says they can, you could put a
plan like this in place and they could estimate within 2-3 years what a
certain metro area's smog levels would be, and how long it would take to
reduce.
Q: Why are different year cars allowed to still produce such emissions when
we are not?
A: Because the government in it's infinite stupidity listened to too many
liberal lies in the 70's which had no REAL MAJOR MEASUREABLE effect on the
air which we breathe.
5. EVEN IN CALIFORNIA, they have removed all smog restrictions on 1973 and
earlier cars. YES, THAT IS RIGHT EVEN IN CALIFORNIA they are removing the
bans on 1973 and earlier cars. My 1970 Porsche will create FAR MORE smog in
a day than my Talon will in a month with the same driving. This in the same
state where it is illegal to run a K&N filtercharger, or RS Akimoto open air
intake.
Q: What logic is this, when even the tree-hugging capital of the world is
laying off the emissions laws on older cars?
A: BECAUSE THE STUDIES FOUND THERE WAS NO MEASURABLE EFFECT IN
DOING SO.
6. Everyone thinks the cat/con is responsible for cleaning up the air. The
fact is that as of 1974 the Los Angeles and other major metro areas in
California have shown a noticeable DECREASE in pollution in the air, and the
prediction is that by the year 2007 that the air in the respective areas
will be the same as it was in 1940. ON A YEARLY BASIS every metro area has
been reporting cleaner air than the previous year, since the introduction of
unleaded gas, and the overall removal of leaded gas.
Q: What is the SINGLE FACTOR in this air cleanup?
A: THE INTRODUCTION OF UNLEADED GASOLINE. End of story.
You see, regardless of how clean or dirty your car burns, the removal of the
leaded gas was the single biggest factor in reducing automotive related
smog. Tests have shown that approximately 75% of the cat/cons installed in
today's cars since 1977 produced no SIGNIFICANT effect in reducing their
emissions in routine driving.
Any car can have a cat, but it doesn't necessarily make it run better. If
you have a burnt plug, bad wire, bad rings, etc... you are creating more
smog than any clean running car without it.
Am I saying the CAT does ZERO GOOD? NO! As far as I am
concerned, most cars should run a cat VOLUNTARILY and not because some
idiot
in the ivory towers of Washington say so. In any commute car, YES, in any
typical day-to-day car where I don't care about performance, yes. After
all, it is a good thing to try and reduce where you can. I also recycle as
much as I can, use safe fluids on my BBQ, do not buy paper plates, conserve
water, etc...
My question is: In the bigger picture of the whole world, and ALL THE
RACING that we see/do where is the logic? Look at how many gallons of
leaded race fuel are burned each year. Look at how many cars race without
cats every year. How many race-boats, planes, etc... FYI, ALL PRIVATE
PLANES in my area are burning leaded gas. I can go down to their air pumps
and buy 100 octane low-lead gas. They burn this all the time. Who are you
to tell me that *I* am evil and don't care when the FAA and EPA are both
allowing the continued use of leaded AvGas right under our very own skies?
OKAY, so now we have a nice big reality check with some facts, and not some
tree-hugger crying victim about being killed. Face it, if you are a real
tree-hugger you even hate the busses and trains for polluting and burning
fossil fuels and diesel. You ride a bike on tires made of RUBBER! OH
GOSH, A POLYMER PRODUCT! AND IT'S COVERED IN PAINT! OH DEAR! That
monitor you are sitting in front of with the rainbow sticker on the side is
made of plastic. ANOTHER POLYMER PRODUCT!
We ALL WANT TO HELP the environment but let's look at the facts:
1. Telling people you only run a pipe at the track is rediculous. How many
of you actually are willing to burn your hands on the cat/con and un-wrench
it from the exhaust when you get to the track? Not many.
2. If even California tree-hugging liberal CARB employees are saying there
is no negligible effect of PRE-1973 cars running no smog equip, how can you
say that the latest and greatest computer tuned cars are an evil gross
polluter. Gross polluters should be judged on sheer volume, not based on
capacity of the motor. After all, in this country we are ALL EQUAL right?
Or are some more equal than others? My 1970 Porsche probably produces 40
times the emissions of my Talon per gallon. Where is the logic in that,
unless the amount is still negligible?
3. If you took everyone in the entire country that is running a testpipe,
and forced them to put a cat on their car, you would still not be able to
get any noticeable measured difference in the atmosphere. I would say that
it is WELL UNDER 1% of us that do it, and probably closer to .01%. If you
look at the fractional numbers and what it does, you would think again about
it being a legal mandate.
4. Cut-outs before the cat are illegal. EVEN IF THEY ARE CLOSED ON THE
ROAD, THEY ARE ILLEGAL SO YOU CAN'T DO THIS AND OPEN THEM AT THE
TRACK.
Maybe if the tree-huggers would realize this is a BAD THING and encourages
use of testpipes, they would change it and more of us would run a cat.
TODD: In all appreciation of the list, I won't come down TOO HARD on you,
and I'll even buy the chains you use to strap yourself to the tree. (then
steal that big-a$$ intercooler core on your car!) :) :)
HOWEVER you did compare it to being behind a MB turbo-diesel. Well instead
of going after the rare car with a testpipe, howabout joining the REAL
crusade in going after ALL THEM DAMN DIESELS on the road. The gas cars
MAY
pollute the upper atmosphere, but let's face it a diesel will make you sick
RIGHT HERE ON THE GROUND.
MY REBUTTAL:
If you want to create a program where all are equal in the smog solution,
you need to remove about 80% of the cars from the road and give every car
the same limit. Other than that, it is just another government way of
making money with smog checks, employing more people at the DOT and EPA
and
CARB, and creates useless industry.
NONE OF MY VEHICLES have a cat on them. I have three. A 1984 motorcycle,
a
1970 Porsche, and a 1995 Talon. Only one came with a cat. Again, I look
for the logic? So by driving the Porsche legally without a cat I am a
better citizen than driving the Talon without it? <big sigh> Get real.
THE CAT does little or no good to most drivers in most situations. It does
do SOME GOOD on the road, but not enough to mandate the current laws we
have
regarding them. If the laws would quit persecuting the racers that do this,
and concentrate on the bombers on the road that billow smoke from a tailpipe
that can be seen from across the freeway, we would solve the pollution
problem faster. It's just too easy to point the finger at a group. ARE YOU
PREJUDICE?
GEEZ, what a long message. I hope most of you read this, and understand the
facts about smog and cats and where the government stands ( or doesn't ) and
for CRYING OUT LOUD LET'S GET RID OF THE LEADED GAS AT THE AIRPORTS!
'Cause if you don't, I will keep burning it in my car at a 40% mixture with
this wonderfully clean "you could drink it" unleaded stuff.
Maybe I will finally finish the Porsche just so I can pollute more LEGALLY
than I can with my Talon ILLEGALLY.
Remember folks, the same court system that is prosecuting you for no cat is
the same court system that found OJ Simpson innocent.
I rest my case your honor...
Brett "I MUST BE AN EVIL MURDEROUS PERSON" Nashlund
[Good post. Glad to see that you've thought about the problem.
And thanks for taking it easy on me.
I have a few questions and comments, though...
1 - I do not believe that cats take that long to warm up to operating
temperature. I've heard 5 minutes on a freeway cruise. It takes
longer if you simply idle or creep through traffic, though. Your
mileage may vary.
2 - I do not buy that cars produce neglible amounts of NOx at cruise.
If that were true, then why do O2 feedback control systems purposely
balance on the side of excessive HC (a little rich) during cruise?
Why wouldn't they try for the much more effecient lean burn for
better mileage?
3 - Whether or not you believe cats are effective, you should never
use ineffective or unfair government policy as justification for
anything. I do, however, agree with your point.
3a - I do not believe you would like living in this country without
environmental activism. Yes, they can be a major PITA, but they
have brought balance to the argument. Remember that they wouldn't
exist if everyone took the long term view. Like all groups, not
every environmentalist is extreme (most aren't). Only the ones
you see on TV are.
4 - A tough problem to solve, since poor people typically drive the
worst cars. I've often thought the money we pay to smog our
cars in CA would be better spent by simply taking $20/car every
year, pooling it, and buying an O2 feedback control system for
all the old carbuerated cars owned by poor people. Someone
actually designed a system that reduced smog by the typical old
car by 80%, and it cost under $400/vehicle. Or, putting that
money towards tuning poor-owned cars that do have feedback, but
don't pass. A much better investment than creating an entire
smog testing industry that now has lobbyists.
5 - I think moving the exemption from pre-65 to pre-73 cars was
simply a statistical exercise, and says nothing about how
good a cat or smog control in general may be now.
6 - Uhhh... Maybe I'm missing something about the chemistry, but...
Lead, while a terrible pollutant, has little to do with NOx
and HC production or smog in general. Lead is pretty damn heavy
and settles out fairly fast. I don't think it hangs in the air
like NOx and HC and CO. I think the real reason you see smog
really start to reduce in the 70s was the oil crisis and the
rise of higher-MPG imports coupled with some major legislation
that affected other polluters, like factories and power plants.
A good chunk of the pressure for this legislation was the oftmaligned tree-huggers.
7 - No doubt about it, smog levels are coming down. I remember
the Bay Area in 1972, when a good chunk of Silicon Valley
was still orchards. It was way worse then than when I come
up to visit my folks now, despite the population tripling
or quadrupling or quintupling...
Interesting to be called a tree-hugger. I'm not often lumped in
that group. Brett, I don't think you have any fear of ever being
called anything near a tree-hugger, especially by that bicyclist
you nearly ran off the road at Canyonlands Natl Park. ;-)
I think I've spilled enough bytes on this topic, and am boring
most of you to tears. I'll promise to take all further blathering
off-line, before one of you bolts a restrictive stock DSM cat to
my mouth.
'Till next year... :-)
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:28:23 -0500
From: Benjamin Peck <[email protected]>
Subject: I want a hi-flo cat group purchase...
Message-ID: <#36>
With all the talk about cats and test pipes and emissions and whatnot, I
think the ultimate answer is simply a high flow cat.
So, is there anybody out there that can help us out and arrange something
like a group purchase for high flow cats? I'm thinking like around $100,
and must be bolt in, no welding (2.5", 3", make one size fit all?).
Can this be done? Anybody want to custom build them for us CHEAP?
Someone
said Summit had universal's for $93, JC Whitney has them for $90-$110, can
someone weld on flanges and whatnot and make it a package?
Thanks,
Ben Peck
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:29:30 -0700
Subject: Lifter Tick Problems/Solutions
Message-ID: <#37>
>But I am concerned about a fairly load ticking noise.
>I dunno if it's just me,
>but it really didn't seem this loud when I
>first got the car.
>It sounds kinda like a sewing machine...
That's the lifter tick, no two ways about it. I've been talking about
this with a few different people for a while now, and the consesus seems
to be that the engine is not in immediate danger, but your power output
may be down a bit from max.
There are three common reasons for the ticking sound:
Bad Oil Level- Could be too low or too high.
Bad Oil
- Might be too thin.
Bad Lifters - Need replaced.
First off check your oil level. Too little lets air in to the lifters,
which causes the tick. Too much and the oil gets stirred up by the
crankshaft until it's all frothy, which again lets air in to the
lifters that causes the tick. This can even happen after you've parked
on a steep hill for a wile.
If the problem is oil level alone, you should be able to clear it
after you adjust the oil level by "racing" the engne. The "racing" works
like this: Run the car at idle and allow it to warm up. Slowly bring
it up to 3000 rpm and hold it there for 30 sec, then let it slowly back
down to idle and run it there for 30 sec. Repeat 3 or 4 times and the
ticking should clear.
Bad Oil- The lifters seem pretty sensitive to oil dirt and
viscosity. One trusted mechanic even told me that synthetics are too
thin to run in our engines. I've had ticking problems with Mobile 1
0w-30. I did this procedure at the suggestion of another list member
and the noise went away with no recurrence. (Only three days since the
oil change, however, so the whole issue isn't decided yet...)
Change the oil, using Pyroil engine flush. It says to use it for 5
minutes, but I only ran for 3. Add new Mobil 1 10w-30, and add Restore
brand Engine Restorer. It comes in a tall skinny silver can. Use the
8-cylinder version. This stuff is *really* goopy, and I got a bit
concerned as I added it, but I'm running fine. The only change I've
noticed is that my oil pressure gauge seldom rose above the lower
"normal" mark before, and it sits about 1/8" above it now.
Bad lifters- There's a detailed procedure for checking lifter
function and clearance in the service manual. I don't have the book with
me, but it's not a hard thing to do. Excessive clearance will make the
same noise as a worn lifter. Adjust the clearance and check them out,
replace them if they're bad.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:50:57 -0700
Subject: Import Event at Firebird Raceway in Phoenix Arizona
Message-ID: <#38>
Hello fellow enthusiasts! This coming Friday, 1/23/98, there will be an
import event at Firebird Raceway in Phoenix, AZ. We will have our own lane
and there will be a prize for fastest ET and best reaction time! The only
fee is the $10 that everyone must pay at the gate. This will be a great
opportunity to see what your car can run and also to meet other fellow
import enthusiasts, not to mention an opportunity to blow away some pushrod
V8's;)
Firebird Raceway is located on Maricopa County road, 1/2 mile west of I-10.
Gates open at 6:00 PM. If you need any information send me an email and I
would be happy to assist.
Later,
Guilly
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 13:03:52 -0500
Subject: Revving Retards!
Message-ID: <#39>
Is it a full moon? Something in the water? I've had
a rash of these little Honda sticker-boyz revving at me
in traffic recently.
Just this afternoon, one in a late model Civic with
MSD, HKS, etc stickers and fat exhaust. When traffic
cleared I went past this guy so fast I think I may have
sucked his windshield loose from it's mounts. I didn't
even have to exceed 55mph to do it.
The other one, a rigged out CRX with the required stickers.
Revving at me an then taking off in heavy lunch traffic
at better than 80mph in a 30mph zone. Like I am going to
race some moron risking life and licence just to crush a
CRX. Please. He had a giant GReddy windshield banner.
What fun is it to street race Hondas. Like beating up
old women or something. There isn't any sport in it.
Hell Z28s and Mustangs aren't even sport anymore.
Personally I don't get the whole sticker thing. I want
my car to appear as stock as possible (can you say sleeper).
I am considering removing the 'Turbo - AWD' sticker for more
stealth. I would love to have a very low key Buschur Racing
licence plate frame, just to let my opponent know who
made their defeat possible. Dave you have anything like that?
You should make some up if you don't. There are a whole
lot of us out here who would wear them with pride.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:23:13 -0800
From: "Juan Laguna [ESRI-Redlands]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Questions on additive - Militec?
Message-ID: <#40>
Hey all.
This question comes from a buddy at work.
>Have you ever heard of an oil additive called Militec? It
>looks to be very promising and has had some serious testing
>done with it.
>I found out that the Slick-50 that I put in my car can
>cause both corrosion and oil clogs. Cool Eh? -> now how
>do I get it out?
Any thoughts?
L8R,
juan
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:34:40 -0800
Subject: Various.
Message-ID: <#41>
>On the cost of a 944T rebuild, wah wah wah. Get a car you can afford to
>break. No offense meant, just being honest.
I can afford to break it, that's why I own one. A person was mentioning
how expensive a DSM motor was to rebuild after a timing belt disaster,
I thought it would be fun to tell how much a 944T motor costs to rebuild.
As for Todd's note about Cat Cons. I'm not going to take any sides. In
my Talons, I always took the cat con out because I wanted more power, on
the 944T, I took it out, and got sick from the smell and realized that
smell obviously means that bad things are going into the environment and
stuck it back on. What I will say is, why not have a compromise? Take
the output from the wastegate (even an internal one can be made to work
this way) and dump that after the cat con. That way, when you are driving
part throttle and all exhaust is passing through the turbine of the turbo,
the exhaust gases are being dealt with by the cat con. When you go WOT,
some of the gases will continue through the cat, but all excess that goes
through the wastegate will go past the cat.
Since you only spend perhaps 1% of your car's life at WOT, this is a good
compromise in my opinion. Maybe Dave B. can build a downpipe/cat combo
using a big cat with this setup and do some testing.
The suspension stuff is moving along, Koni has received all 100+ of your
emails! They are overwhelmed at the response and are now in the process of
figuring out how to build it cost-effectively. I'll keep you posted as
things progress.
Farzaan.
1989 Porsche 944 Turbo
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:46:49 -0500
From: Tom Balon <[email protected]>
Subject: [1G,AT,T] Timing Belt Broke/Valves Sticking
Message-ID: <#42>
Hello all, I am new to the Digest so this may be covering old ground.
I am in the process of replacing my timing belt and was wondering what the
typical failure mode was. I have owned two talons. The first had a timing
belt fail as a result of softening and loss of the belt teeth. As the
result the belt didn't actually break it just lost enough teeth so that the
crank spun but cams did not. This cost me 12 valves and guides, no piston
damage (just scratches really).
My question really comes down to the tooth loss issue. Is this a result of
the belt being too tight or too loose (some rumors of auto-tensioner
failure abound). Another possibility (common with the Fiat twin cam) is
softening of the belt due to engine oil leaks.
The DSM TSB for timing belt replacement is not all that different than the
description in the Haynes Manual. I myself think it is easier to compress
the auto-tensioner in a vice rather than using the long bolt-like tool in
the TSB. I should note that the belt replacement in the first car lasted
at least 35,000 miles before it was sold. Were some of the dealerships not
compressing the auto-tensioner?
In the car I purchased about three months ago (120k) the timing belt had
been replaced by the dealer but not the balance shaft belt. The balance
shaft belt failed. The engine continued to run but poorly and with a lot
of lifter noise. Compression in one cylinder was nil so I opened it up.
Several of the intake valves were sticking in their guides due to carbon
buildup on the stems. One of the valves had stuck long enough to be bent
but without damage to the guide. As luck would have it the lifter on this
valve was also seized fully compressed (two other lifters were also locked
down) and the rocker fell off preventing the valve from opening again.
None of the exhaust valves guides were gummed at all. I have read the
lifter FAQ (I have actually used this method for a long time) and wanted to
say that the FAQ is the fix for this problem. Marvel Mystery oil in the
tank also helps. Of course opening up the motor is a lot of fun also. I
also noticed that my timing cover was melted prety good due to heat from a
broken exhaust stud but not enough to damage the belt.
As some of you know (the ones who supplied the replacement parts, thanks,
by the way), I also pulled the turbo to take a better look at a nasty crack
in the turbine housing and found that the housing was destroyed. I wonder
what the cat does with all that metal?
Later <(|)>
Thomas H. Balon Jr.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 12:52:56 -0700
From: ATL Computer Services <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [2G] 95 cd changer in 98, and 98 ABS
Message-ID: <#43>
Alas, no, the changer will not work. They changed it in the 97 model year.
So far, there are no known aftermarket changers that will plug right in.
Aaron T. Larson,
MitGSX97 on IRC
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
Today's Topics:
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
Warren C Daniel
ECU and Fuel Pump Upgrade
Colby J. Leonard
Re: MAS screw
Frank Mowry
Hostility Festival revisited
Vincent Chiaro
2G T AWD top speed
Scott Willard
Talon AUTOCROSS [all]
Bobby B
Re: Personal choices
8) Vincent Chiaro
2G freeway rocks, paint chips, door dings.
9) Bobby B
Re: [1G] Radio
10) Mark Larson
Re: Front toe adjustment
11) Scott Goodman
blitz boost controller
12) Bill Shultz
1G T DP studs
13) sjudo
GReddy BOV Type S setup [2GT] [RTP]
14) Mark Larson
Re: cats and chicks
15) Mike Richman
crankcase filter question
16) Ryan Haley
All
Goodbye my friends!
18) Raymond Butt
Mitsu Transfer Case Replacement
20) JFM MAC
I need to find someone, misc stuff
21) Joe Inskeep
If only money were no object...
22) Chislett
My fellow Canadians...
23) Jasper
Buying Laser RS Turbo
24) Mike Miller
Strange occurrance
25) BlueTalon2
Bonus War Story
26) dan
more dsm criminals
27) Tom Stangl
Re: high flow cat
28) BLAKTALEN
idle
29) Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Anti-Seize Limits
30) KEVIN BROWN
Tom's blow up
31) DDynopower
Boost controllers
32) DDynopower
Upper IC pipes for 2G
33) RUFRIDR
Royal Reaming & Replies
34) Carnz4
Re: Mitsubishi Canadian Style
35) animal
Cat Rant
36) Brad
Cats vs. MPG
Re: o2 wire location
38) animal
psig and psia
39) Gene Fine
Jiffy Lube problems and the Cat war
40) Jeremy Anderson
Power hungry [1G,T, RTP (if you want)]
42) Khanh Vu
RE: [2G] 95 cd changer in 98, and 98 ABS
43) Byers, Brian
RTP: Backpressure Myths, Cats, and Some Nifty New
44) Rory Martin
footnote to my post on CO gas
45) Kyle Zingg
WTB: 2G Tbody elbow, 1G shift handle
46) SweetJT
[2g] Talon rear on an Eclipse
47) Robert Black
Windshield Washers (2g)
48) Tome
re: collision
49) JASON
emissions in Atlanta
50) jim_jordan
Re: cats, Hank, and NASCAR!!
51)
52)
53)
54)
55)
56)
57)
gselph
cats, stereo, dyno
Ernie Cline
Limited Slip Differential
Shift Test Engr. Bld Jiffy Lube
Allen
[1g,t] My car lives, borrowed a Supra, 1g head for
Kevin
cat convertor heatup time
smokin
I can't believe I'm getting into this
James J. Heck
90 radio in a 91??
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:06:37 -0600 (CST)
Subject: ECU and Fuel Pump Upgrade
Message-ID: <#1>
Hello All,
I was wondering, does the ECU respond
at all to a fuel pump upgrade? Does the
ECU realize that more fuel is flowing?
If so, how does the ECU adjust itself?
If not, does the fuel pump merely send more
fuel at a give voltage?
[The ECU knows nothing of the fuel pump, except that it is on. The
fuel pump is an on/off device. What people fail to realize is that
the fuel pump runs open loop, with the fuel pressure regulator
do the real feedback work and returning the excess fuel back into
the tank. All you are doing when you install a bigger fuel pump is
ensuring that the ECU's assumptions about fuel pressure continue to
be correct with increased boost pressure and fuel use. The stock
pump tends to sag a bit once you go beyond factory assumptions.
-talon mgr]
Thanks,
Warren
96 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 13:10:07 -0700
Message-ID: <#2>
I'm the one who made that post you're referring to. If you read Todd's
response to your post, he's somewhat correct. Once you floor it, it will
bounce for awhile then settle (during cruising, it bounces a lot). If you
haven't messed with the screw yet, .98 sounds right (our cars run sooo rich
stock). Here's how you find the screw. Pull off the aircan and MAS. Unscrew
the MAS from the aircan (several little screws in the back). Pull the MAS
out of the aircan. On the bottom of the MAS, you will see a circle with wax
in it. Scrape all that wax out and you will see a flathead screw. Also, by
looking into the MAS lower tunnel, you will see three passages. The third one
has a bump blocking it somewhat. By turning this screw, you will back this
bump out, allowing more air to pass. Back it out halfway, reassemble, and see
what your o2 reads. Be ready, it will make your car noticeably faster! If
you have anymore questions, feel free to email me...
Colby Leonard
'90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 15:39:59 -0500
Subject: Hostility Festival revisited
Message-ID: <#3>
>I had an irresistible urge to kick children and take candy away from small
>animals after reading the digest today. Todd, buddy, chill man.
>
>To Frank Mowry (aka Mr Toughguy): Not everyone can afford to destroy
clutches
>on a regular basis. Live and let live everyone.
Hmmm. Todd should chill yet you call me Mr. Toughguy. Whelp, I'll take it
as a compliment. Thanks. I've gotta go jam my feet on the pedals and destroy
some clutches. And smack my boss around and demand more money from
Uncle Sam
so I can pay for 'em. And kill some cats, furry or the nonpolutant kind.
Hell, let me smack Hank while I'm at it. Whack!
Now for the DSM content:
I got kinda bored with hearing the same 2G questions regarding leaky gas
tanks, wobbly sunroofs, and bad mileage. RTP or read the archives, for
jiminy's sake. Now though, I should have my 1G sold by the middle of next
week, after I get the 3 bolt to replace my 4 bolt. Fear not, list readers,
my witty banter and foul mouth have not left the world of DSMs. I have
entered into 2G ownership. I got me a '97 TSI AWD on Christmas eve for a
price a couldn't resist. 16K miles and I drove it away for $15,700. Black,
loaded and LSD. Had the VIN run through to check for warranty work. Had
Sean check it out before I bought it. Only problems with it are the front
spoiler is pretty scuffed up in the front underside and the crap Mopar
battery was leaking. The battery's been fixed and the spoiler should be
within the month. I put the I/C, upgraded fender mount, and intake in this
weekend. 16G and PMS go in this coming weekend. Most of this stuff is from
Lyle Holmes 12.1 sec. car. I've gotta run it mild for a while. Might do
the head and intake and see how far I can go on the 16G. Time will tell.
A wise man once said, "Once you go AWD, you never go back". Aw hell, it was
me.
Been nice venting,
Frank Mowry (aka Mr. Toughguy)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 13:58:40 -0800
Subject: 2G T AWD top speed
Message-ID: <#4>
Hey guys,
Well I am a little behind on the digests because I was away for a few days.
Took a weekend trip to visit a friend in the warm, sunny city of Santa
Barbara, California. Yes, the home of our loving moderator Todd Day. The
roughly 5 hour trip (stopping for lunch, etc) from the SF Bay Area down to
Santa Barbara was a fun drive. Although war stories were very scarce. One 2G
GS (non-turbo) tried to play so I had to show that blonde babe what was up
with turbo power. Since there was traffic in one lane, she was behind me. I
slowly started to accellerate in 5th gear...she kept up from about 60 to 80
so I figured she would be up for a little "follow the leader." I
downshifted to 4th and punched it. Later babe. I let up at around 110 and
she was about 1 or 2 miles back (these are pretty straight roads). She
finally caught up when I slowed down (she flew past me in excess of 100 mph)
and then exitied. Some girl in a Saturn thought she wanted to race me too,
that didn't last long either. Unfortunately no "worthy" war stories to tell
during that whole 700 mile roundtrip. Although the FWD DSMs rule the
freeways, the AWDs still have plenty of go.
I did however decide during a straight and empty section of highway 101 to
see what the top speed on my car actually was. So, without even shifting
into 4th, I just hit the throttle in 5th gear and watched the speedometer
climb. At 140 mph I was beginning to feel a bit nervous so I let up. Blew
past two cars on my decelleration, they must have freaked (I was at about
120 when I passed them). Apparently I don't have the speed limiter you guys
had been talking about. Did we ever figure out which models do and don't
have it? It is at 130 right? Anyway, has anyone had a bone stock (well mine
is stock except for pre95 BOV) faster than 140? It felt like it had a bit
more life left in it but I was too scared to try.
[I believe that only late-in-the-95-model-year-FWDs and all 96 FWDs
have the limiter. -talon mgr]
VINCE
95 TSi AWD
spookie on irc.dsm.org
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:42:27 -0400
From: Scott Willard <[email protected]>
Subject: Talon AUTOCROSS [all]
Message-ID: <#5>
Hello all. I have recently started autoxing my 93 Talon AWD. If there is
anyone out there that has been into autoxing for a while, shoot me an
email. I'd like to discuss setups, mods, and driving techniques.
Thanks.
Scott (Did I hit that cone?) Willard
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:47:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Personal choices
Message-ID: <#6>
Hey Man :)
I think your post on the cat issue was the most unbiased, honest one I've
seen. I agree with you on all the parts, especially about the hypocrasy. I
recycle, but I use a cat, ONLY because of the law, if there was no law,
there'd be no cat in my car.
Bobby
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:49:59 -0800
Subject: 2G freeway rocks, paint chips, door dings.
Message-ID: <#8>
Sorry for the second post. As I mentioned previously, I took a trip this
weekend, 700 miles roundtrip driving. Well, while I was down in Santa
Barbara some SUV (since it was fairly high on my door) gave me a nice
door-ding present. Lucky me. The door isn't dented but a good little chunk
of paint is chipped off clear to the bare metal. God damn they must have
opened their door hard. I had people like that. Secondly, while driving home
I hear this loud noise so when I pulled over to get gas I check out my hood
and there is anothe HUGE chip on the "power bulge". The car was entirely
repainted less than 3 months ago so I am upset because the car was perfect
up to this point. What can you guys recommend I do? Is touch up paint the
only way to go? I hate these blemishes on my baby, specially since her
usually commute is a 5 mile trip to school/work, 2 miles to the local coffee
shop, and the rest of the time she lives in the garage for the most part.
Any recommendations on my paint chips is appreciated. Thanks!
P.S. I just got in touch with the dealership who repainted my car. The Body
Shop Manager up there is really cool and told me to stop by tomorrow and he
would be happy to personally touch up the chips and also give me some of the
touch up paint for future use. Does this sound like a safe idea? Anything
better, let me know.
VINCE
95 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:57:26 -0600
Subject: Re: [1G] Radio
Message-ID: <#9>
Hmmm, just thought of something. I had a CB in another closet of this
house, just sitting on the shelf for a year, and when I tried to put it
into the Laser, it had mysteriously gone dead too. Wonder if there is
some strange energy field in my closets.
DON'T GO INTO THE LIGHT! STAY AWAY FROM THE LIGHT!
Bobby :)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:49:57 -0600
From: Mark Larson <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Front toe adjustment
Message-ID: <#10>
>After a little shunt up and over a curb, every tar strip and
>street irregularity would tug at the steering wheel. Diagnosis:
>the front wheels were toed out - 9/64" to be exact - just out of
>spec. Toe = 0 +- 1/8".
After putting on rally springs and shocks, I forgot to check the alignment.
The first time I drove the car I put it in a huge four-wheel drift around a
2-lane cloverleaf. When I caught up to the car ahead, I touched the brake
and whee!... a perfect 360!
The amount of bump steer made it obvious there was an alignment problem,
and driving in the snow was a nightmare, especially when the roads were
only half dry. I'd hit an icy patch with one wheel and the car would
immediately dive in that direction. Crossing the pile of snow on the
dotted line was a real pain, jerking first one way and then the other.
Meanwhile I'd be holding up every mother in a mini van behind me.
So I decided I'd better check out the alignment before I wore out my tires.
The front was toed in 1/2"! My friend suggested that we'd measured wrong,
but I knew better, having driven the car.
Now we've got 0 toe front and rear. I'm not afraid to drive the car any more!
Incidentally, raising the car an inch resulted in slightly negative camber
on the front and slightly more negative on the rear, although I don't know
what I had before.
And, if you're adjusting the front toe, 1 full turn on 1 tie rod gives you
just over 1/8". In other words, to take out 1/2" of toe, we had to go just
under 2 full turns on each side.
My car's almost ready for it's first Pro Rally. We need to finish the
front half of the roll cage, install skid plates and buy some wheels and
tires. It will happen as soon as the budget allows.
Mark Larson
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 19:01:09 -0500
From: Scott Goodman <[email protected]>
Subject: blitz boost controller
Message-ID: <#11>
Would anybody be interested in getting a special on the dual blitz controller?
I called the distributer of blitz products and he quoted me a price of $445.
Then I told him I was a member of the talon digest and he said he'd give me a
discount of about 10% off the price he quoted me if I sent him some kind of
certificate that I'm part of the digest. Then I asked if I could get a bunch
of people to also purchase one would he give us more of a discount and he said
sure. The more people I get the bigger the discount. If anybody is interested
email me and ill see what I could do. thanks
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:32:59 -0500
Subject: 1G T DP studs
Message-ID: <#12>
Hey all,
I've been toying with the idea of replacing the 2 O2/DP studs with a
pair of hex-bolts since it's a bitch to tourque the stock nuts with a 3"
DP. Has anyone out there done it?
RTP or post, I'm sure I'm not the only guy with a 3" DP :^)
If possible, please RTP with the dimension/size of the studs so I can
look it up in a McMaster catalog.
TIA
Bill
90 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:41:43 -0800
Subject: GReddy BOV Type S setup [2GT] [RTP]
Message-ID: <#13>
For all of you out there that have GReddy BOV Type S, how do you have
your BOV setup? Does your BOV vent back to the intake, or does it vent
to the atmosphere? Which way is better and why? I have been reading
mixed responses, and am a little confuse.
Currently, mine is venting to the atmosphere, the shop I went to
installed it that way... The thing is loud especially when I drive with
the top down (I have '97 Spyder GS-T). I saw an article on Turbo
magazine, I think it was on a GReddy '97 GSX which has their the Type S
BOV, but theirs was venting back into the intake. Anyway, any info
would be greatly appreciated...
Oh one more thing, how much boost can I push before the Type S start
leaking air? I think I read somewhere that the GReddy Type S is good
for 10-14 lbs., is this true? Unfortunately, I am still waiting for my
boost gauge which is in backorder at the moment... grrr...
Sunny
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:46:50 -0600
From: Mark Larson <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: cats and chicks
Message-ID: <#14>
>I use a test pipe because I use race gas. I'd love to use a cat for many
>reasons: quiter exhaust, less emissions, no fines from you know who, only
>race occasionally. However, leaded race gas can "poison" a cat and it can
>clog it up... since there really isn't a quick and easy way to swap them (I
>have my test pipe welded in because the flanges w/gaskets kept leaking all
>the time) I stick with the test pipe.
A very weak argument. In Minneapolis I can find at least 104 octane
unleaded all year long.
If you say you need to run leaded race gas in your street car on the street
all the time then you are either a liar or way richer than me (not hard to
believe that one).
Mark Larson
-----------------------------Date:
Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:47:14 -0600 (CST)
Subject: crankcase filter question
Message-ID: <#15>
Another question on that k&N crankcase vent filter. Does anyone know if the
outlet is positively pressurized at all times? Several people have written
me that the filter accumulates engine oil and then clogs, which results in
excess pressure building up. If the valve cover area is always positively
pressurized, can I add a piece of tubing to drain the excess oil down under
the engine?
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:50:22 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected] (Ryan Haley)
Subject: All
Message-ID: <#16>
[You are wrapping at 150 columns. Please wrap at 70 columns.
-talon mgr]
To all the people who have had the crazy radar detector syndrome, try a new
battery. In both my Talons, mine would go beserk
whenever the horn or rear window washer was used and ta da... dead battery
shortly thereafter.
Does anyone have any gray leather seats (front) for a 1G for sale. Mine are
getting really bad. Any good leather workers in
the Atlanta area? Also anyone on the Digest from Atlanta that has any
projects on their car coming up, and you need an
extra set of hands, let me know. I go to school in Marietta during the week,
so anywhere in the Atlanta area is probably
close enough. Just offering, 'cause there's been times when I would have
liked to have some help!
I came across a 92-94 Tsi at Georgia Tech last week, anybody want to claim it?
It was black with aftermarket exhaust and a
Cherokee county tag. How about a white 92-94 with exhaust and a NOPI
sticker
on the rear triangle window at Southern Tech
last week? Sure would be nice to find some of you guys down here.
I want to repeat an offer I saw in one of Paul Lyons post a while back. Any
newbies out there who have questions that you
aren't comfortable asking on the Digest, my email is open. (Sorry for the
copyright infringment Paul, but I thought it was a
great offer, and I know what it's like not to have any answers;)
If by chance any of you guys know where I can get a Motorola semiconductor
pressure sensor (MPX2200A) let me know. Newark
Electronics does't have them any more, nad I running out of ideas. I need
that model for a pressure gauge experiment.
Congrats to Tom Stangl on the member of the year award. I guess its a little
late, but he deserved it. The VAQS sure have
saved me some cash over the last 3 years. Sorry this post is long and
scatterbrained, but its been awhile. Thanks for the
time everybody, and extra thanks to Todd--great job.
Ryan Haley
90 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:20:25 -0600
Subject: Goodbye my friends!
Message-ID: <#17>
All,
I've done the unthinkable - I've traded in my '96 AWD Talon for a Jeep
Wrangler Sahara (some of you may remember that I was thinking about it a
couple months ago).
As such, I am no longer worthy to stay on the list :(
I want to thank everyone for the valuable information provided to me
over the past 2 years, especially you Todd - you 'da man!
Further, I've still got my 17x8" BBS Moda M1 rims shod with 225-55/ZR17
Yokohama A008P's with about 75% - 80% tread left. They are in the
Chicago area (Schaumburg). They cost me almost 2 grand brand new, I'll
let em go for $500 - you gotta come pick em up though.
Email me directly as I no longer subscribe to the list.
Farewell and thanks!
Jim '98 TJ Sahara
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:49:50 -0800
From: Raymond Butt <[email protected]>
Subject: Mitsu Transfer Case Replacement
Message-ID: <#18>
Hey All,
I just got back from Parkway Mitsubishi in Valencia where the MMSA guys
were there to do some data acquisition on our transfer case problems.
There were only five guys me, TJ, Jeff, Mike (DSS), and some other guy
whose name I forgot sorry :( Well we all got what we were promised a NEW
transfer case, yoke, rental car, and $50.
The MMSA guys really impressed me with actually caring about the problems
we are facing with the leakage. They are going to take all of our old
transfer cases apart and inspect them. Hopefully then they will have a
bullet proof solution. I was told that the parts installed today were just
stock parts nothing new or special. So I guess it's time to break out the
RTV and seal off that ol' yoke.
Overall I am happy to see that Mitsubishi is really concerned with our
problems. It was really cool to see four guys under my car taking pictures
and measurements and commenting on my suspension mods.
Thanks to Ken Frakes for
making this all possible for us. Hopefully he will be able to schedule
more of you in at a later date.
Ray
90' GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:51:38 EST
From: JFM MAC <[email protected]>
Subject: I need to find someone, misc stuff
Message-ID: <#20>
Howdy guys! Sorry to take up bandwidth with this, but my laptop monitor
broke
around Christmas and I haven't had time to fix it yet. As a result, I've been
internetless for over a month now. I agreed to purchase an
Imagine stainless O2 dump housing from a list member in CA last month, but
have not been able to contact him. I don't know his name or anything (it
might be Maynard?). If you happen to be reading this please call me at
(617) 760-2073 so I can send the $$$ out to you.
Onto other news of the DETHROKET. I ripped out the rear motor mount from
the
block again as well as the two bolts on the tranny mount. This time it's
fixed RIGHT (yeah I know, that's what I said last time). I put two 1/2 inch
studs in the tranny with stainless helicoil inserts and stuck a 1/2 inch stud
into the block where the rear motor mount bolts up to. No more drag racing
for this car, it's just going to be a nice street car now if it holds
together. I guess I HAVE to get an AWD for racing now...
1st gen Kombat kits. I haven't forgotten about you guys. When work stops
kicking my a$$ and I get back online, I'll update you to the current
situation. I still need to contact Tom Stangl so he can be a guinea pig for
the new kit, but things are looking good.
I guess that's all for now. Visit my web page at http://www.gis.net/~blakrokt
to see the UPDATED version of the Graingers boost controller! Hope everyone
got cool go-fast stuff for the holidays!
Keep the rubber side down...and the motor mounts ATTACHED to the block ;-)
Jim McKenna
1990 FWD DETHROKET
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:27:49 -0500
From: Joe Inskeep <[email protected]>
Subject: If only money were no object...
Message-ID: <#21>
Hey All,
OK, here are the mindless ravings of one of your fellow members! First, I
can't agree more with the post that said something about the reason our
insurance is high is because of exactly the type things we read in these
Digests; racing, high speeds (not necessarily the same thing), etc. Why do
I agree? Because I am now a hypocrite! After my December post complaining
about my expensive insurance and spotless record, I have now got my first
speeding ticket, 89 in a 55. Did I mention it would also be my last
speeding ticket? I've decided that the saying, "Leave the racing for the
tracks and the dragstrips," is much easier on my wallet and my conscience!
Therefore, if you get caught going the speed limit behind a dark blue
Galant GS-X, be kindly to the driver, and pass him without giving the
finger, etc.!
Secondly, after talking to many people, I've decided not to modify my
Galant over what it now has, which is Splitfires, NGK wires, K&N, and a
Grex strut tower brace. Some of this decision was made while reading the
rice-boy pages on the web that were mentioned in a post last month. The
Galant GSX is NOT a sports car like the TEL's and VR-4's are. It is not
easily modified, and its' small, NT engine is low on power. To those who
have suggested, "just put a turbo in," I appreciate the thought but that
idea is not nearly as simple to do as it is to talk about. You guys with
the VR-4's, continue kicking some serious butt, I enjoy hearing about your
drag encounters, autox'ing, etc.
I haven't abandoned the idea of modifying a car, but have simply
changed my approach somewhat. Rather than fool with the sophistication and
ultra-expensive modifying of a computer-controlled car, I'm going to step a
rung lower on the ladder and build up my 80 Firebird Formula. I won't
describe the details to you, because they don't concern this list, but I
will continue to be a member of the list and enjoy hearing about your all's
adventures. If I happen to come up with any ideas that might help you,
I'll certainly let you know as I always have. Whenever you break into the
9's, I'll be right here cheering for you! You all are a great group of
people, and maybe one day when I have more money I can get my own, TURBO
DSM! To the NT's, I say, "If you've got the money, go for it! Kick some
NT Honda butt!" Oh yeah, at least now I know that I won't race a DSM in my
Formula until it runs in the 11's! That should save me some embarrassment!
The only unfortunate part for you all is that if I spend my money right, a
$1,500 Pontiac 455 engine and a set of slicks will put my Firebird in the
11's. How much did we decide it would cost to put an AWD DSM in the ll's?
I think it was at least double that. Oh well, don't worry, in my mind an
11-sec. DSM has much more class than an 11-sec. Pontiac! So, no flames
please! I'm still your friend! And I still have my GGS-X, I'm just not
under the illusion that I can make it into a 10-sec. car anymore!
Joe Inskeep
90 GGS-X
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:41:31 -0500
From: Chislett <[email protected]>
Subject: My fellow Canadians...
Message-ID: <#22>
>Talon's Demise, what happens in Canada...
Fear not, Mitsubishi DSM is coming.
When I heard about the demise of the Talon, I was terribly distraught.
After some research, I've learned that Mitsu is coming in '99. I can't
get a date more specific than that, so I can only assume that they will
begin sales with the 2000 model year. For starters there will be 12 new
dealers. They won't be sold at Chrysler dealerships. Something about a
falling out between them. From what I understand there will be 2
dealers starting up here in Ottawa, and I can only assume, Michel, that
there will be at least one in Montreal aussi.
Since I'm on the subject, what is the price difference between
comparably equipped models? Talon vs. Eclipse.
What about the few Mitsubishi vehicles that I do see up here in the land
where we need AWD all year long? How are they licensed? Aren't there
different standards with the seat belts, air bags and bumpers? I've
rambled enough.
Geoff
Saving for a 99 Talon, now a 2000 Eclipse
Iced up in Ottawa
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:51:41 -0700
From: Jasper <[email protected]>
Subject: Buying Laser RS Turbo
Message-ID: <#23>
A car dealer friend of mine has a 1990 Laser RS Turbo
that he's wanting to sell to me for my son. The kicker
is it had a broken timing belt and after the replacement
I guess he discovered some bent or broken valves. The car
has 135,000 miles. Should I steer clear, or make him a
offer?
Any Comments
James T
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:45:58 -0600
From: Mike Miller <[email protected]>
Subject: Strange occurrance
Message-ID: <#24>
Greetings all,
Just wondering if the following has happened to anyone. I was doing
some spirited driving in Evansville, IN this weekend and when I was
heading back to my friends house, I noticed a strange sound. When I
released the accelerator, I heard this kind of grinding/whine sound.
Well I pull up and take a look at it with my friend and his dad, and the
pulley that the alternator belt uses(the outside pulley underneath the
top timing belt cover) is making the noise.
My friends dad says, it sounds like the bearings in the pulley are
locking up and you will need to replace the pulley. I know how much of
a PITA it is to get to that area because I watched my timing belt being
replaced a month ago. I did not even second guess my friends dad's
opinion because he has a mint perfectly rebuilt Challenger he just
finished restoring a year ago and is pretty handy when it comes to cars.
Well suffice it to say that was my first mistake. We watched the pulley
whine and not one of us reached in to check the belt tension! Come to
find out -- after I had it towed to a friends garage --- the alternator
tension screw had somehow popped out of the fork and released all
tension on the belt. Man I felt like such a dunce. I could have fixed
that in 20 min!
Well I thought I would share that humbling experience.
Also, concerning the Dave B. downpipe being to thin subject. I think
Dave cleared it up, but I am getting the VW noise and I have tried
different gaskets and other methods to see if I had an exhaust leak. So
I took some towels and duct tape :) and wrapped both ends of the test
pipe. I drove it --- keep in mind that it was only up the street and
back! --- and the noise disappeared. I thought I had tried everything
to keep the exhaust from leaking, but apparently not enough.
So, I'm sure that the noise for others has to be an exhaust leak
somewhere. If nothing else works, I'm gonna try some muffler and tail
pipe repair silicone I got from Pep Boys, and seal the ends up. I'm
just not sure how easy it will be to get the pipe off after that. :)
BTW those that wanted pics of the remote hatch release, I took the film
in and should get it back by Fri. I will try to get them scanned and
emailed out this weekend.
Thanks,
Mike
ellisz on irc
Only a FWD, but flys on the HWY!
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:27:50 EST
Subject: Bonus War Story
Message-ID: <#25>
Hey guys
I was heading home after a doing a few hours of overtime at work when I
pulled
to a stop at a light. My car was filled with a a few crates of back issues of
Motor Trend, Turbo, SCC, and Super Street Magazines that I was moving to my
new apartment. I was sitting there trying to think of a good explanation to
give my girl why I need to keep magazines that go back almost 8 years when I
a
silver 98 GSX wizzed by me in the turn lane. I was shocked since I rarely see
2g AWDs much less ones with a fat Greddy tip. Since I still had some octane
boost left in the tank I figured I'd take a detour on the way home. I pulled
out my lane and settled in behind the GSX. I could see he had a boost gauge so
maybe he'd give me some good competition. The light turned green and he
rolled
off oblivious of me stalking him. As soon as I got the chance I dove into the
other lane and pulled beside him. I guess seeing me was all the inspiration he
needed since I heard him downshift and accellerated. I slipped back behind
him
since my lane was blocked but just as we were about to clear traffic the light
ahead turned red with me stuck behind him. I sat there waiting at the light
listening to him rev his engine. But as the turn light turn yellow he failed
to bring his revs up "Dave B" style. The light turned green and he made a weak
launch. I had to lift to avoid rear ending him. But as soon as we cleared the
car in the next lane I pulled over while shifting to second. I walked past him
quickly and was a car length ahead by the time the CBV unleashed itself from
the discharge hose when I shifted to third.
I slowed before shifting to fourth and rolled down my window. The GSX driver
lowered his window and with a puzzled face screamed out, "What do you got in
that thing!" I motioned him to pull over but instead I followed him to his
house a few blocks away. His car was barely broken in with 12k miles but he
already had an air filter, BOV, IC pipe, Greddy Cat Back, Profec (16 psi) ,
and a Turbo Timer. He still had that surprised look on his face when I got out
my car, and he was even more surprised when he saw all the crates I was
hauling as well. He couldn't believe he got waxed by a car with 100k miles
more than his. I took the time to explain the differences 'tween first and 2g
cars and got his number so that we could hook up and go Honda stomping
somtime.
Now don't get me wrong, I have much love and respect for the 95+ DSMs. Ever
since driving my boy, Paul "16g group purchase" Estevez's GS-T with Konis and
H&R springs my bird feels like it handles like as soft as a caddy. But what
was also funny was that when I raced the GSX, the knock light was off. Anyone
got any guesses how much power the retarded time robs.
Mario
Porsche Killer
90 Talon Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:21:46 -0700
From: dan <[email protected]>
Subject: more dsm criminals
Message-ID: <#26>
a few weeks/months back I posted about a police chase with a Laser, the
following story inc. a california kid in his DSM eclipse this time:
http://www.msnbc.com/local/KECI/8811.asp
http://www.missoulian.com/ (may need to check back issue for tues.)
looks like a 93 eclipse turbo from the news show.
later, dan.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:52:07 -0800
Subject: Re: high flow cat
Message-ID: <#27>
>as for the Products for
>Power hi flo cat I just cant see how they can sell a good quality cat for
>$100.00 or less so I would stay away from that.
Actually, the JC Whitney cats are PFP cats, and their 3" is a very nice
cat. I use it, it flows great. Cheap does NOT equal cheap (if you can
follow that ;-) Dynomax simply makes them in LARGE quantities.
Tom Stangl
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:04:07 EST
From: BLAKTALEN <[email protected]>
Subject: idle
Message-ID: <#28>
hi
[RTP]
I got a 90awd tsi I just did the TB bypass and the car was warm when I did
this mod so I drove it after and everything was fine all day! the next day I
get in the car and I got a fast idle like 1400ish and I also got a idle surge!
seems to do it more when the cars cold but not always also it doesnt do it all
the time! is this from doing the Tb bypass or does my TB need a good cleaning?
thanks
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:24:18 -0600
Subject: Anti-Seize Limits
Message-ID: <#29>
>>I found anti seize does not work for me probably since I exceed
>>the termperature limit when I race.
>Somebody wanna tell me how this is possible? Just imagaine what an
antiseize
>compound would see on a spark plug thread? I think it's good stuff and I use
>it where it is applicable.
I can easily get my brake rotors glowing red which is high enough to burn
off all the lubricant in anti-seize compound and if it is not hot enough to
melt the suspended metallic powder I am sure it gets oxidized and falls off.
Don't get me wrong I still use it because it is better then nothing.
Regarding plugs I have never seen an engine head glow red hot (and survive).
If you are having problems with seized plugs I would switch brands. Most
manufacturers have a antiseize plating on the plug which should out perform
the antiseize compound. (the NGK rep. that subscribes to the digest can
correct me if I am wrong)
Victor
95 Talon TSI
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:00:05 -0800
Subject: Tom's blow up
Message-ID: <#30>
>that is from the piston ring remains tearing up top, then going out my
>valves, into the intake manifold, then INTO OTHER CYLINDERS.
[non dsm, but interesting]
Back in my motorcycle roadracing days, I had a con rod break at 10,500 rpm.
When I tore the motor down I found several pieces of piston, rings and THE
SMALL END OF THE ROD AND WRIST PIN in the exhaust pipe!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:21:59 EST
Subject: Boost controllers
Message-ID: <#31>
We have a unit for sale now. Had a similar unit on my Syclone over five years
ago. Made this unit to fit the DS's as well as other turbo vehicles. Is very
compact and lightweight. Adjusts easily. Spools up very quickly, very, very
quickly.
We are not a fan of the electronic controllers, and this is a good
alternative to the over-priced units on the market. Same or superior
performance at a fraction of the costs.
Tested it on internal as well as external gated cars. Excellent results.
Used on all of our own cars. One plus is once it is adjusted correctly,
it won't unexpectedly raise the boost like an electronic is capable of. Have
seen a lot of turbo cars seriously wounded by the wonderous Greddy and HKS
controllers on the market. Stepper motors are known to malfunction from
time to time. A well designed manual controller will not.
With instructions and installation hardware. Only $85.
Thanks,
Doug
Doug's Dynopower
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:27:45 EST
Subject: Upper IC pipes for 2G
Message-ID: <#32>
Many people want a half pipe for various reasons. So we made one that fits
well, and is affordable. Finally, an upper pipe that replaces the plastic pipe
on the 2G cars. AND, one with a dual flange so either a pre-95 BOV or Greddy
Type S valve can be used. 2 1/4 inch in size. This is a half pipe, and
attaches to the stock upper rubber hose before the TB elbow. Powder coated
black.
[What is a "half-pipe"? How does it differ from an upper or lower pipe?
-talon mgr]
The pre-95 valve works so well, used on 11 sec. cars. And, when
someone wants to use the greddy valve, they can. Minimum of 20 hp gain over
the dysfunctional plastic unit the factory so thoughtfully placed on the 2 G
cars. Pipes are $165.
Thanks
Doug's Dynopower.
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:46:00 -0600 (CST)
RUFRIDR <[email protected]>
Subject: Royal Reaming & Replies
Message-ID: <#33>
Whoa, settle down there beavis!
Man, did John really hit me on that post yesterday. My hiney is
still sore, and my proctologist says the swelling won't go down for days.
>=op I was guessing my apology post would make up for spilled milk, but I
guess not. Have I really hit this many people with soreness? I thought
the only reason people hated me, was because of my PoSts lIkE tHiS and
all, with the alternate caps, and stuff. Guess I was wrong.
As for bragging, I was proud of my old GS-T, but not to the point
of narcissistic qualities. Sure, I posted my URL to the digest a few
times, and yes, I told people my mods. But who here doesn't LIKE to talk
about their car? Hell, it's a Car Digest for goodness sake.
>Ever since Hank first appeared on the digest, I've wondered how a 19
>year old college student, working at a home and garden center, can
>afford a $20,000 dollar car and probably $6,000 in modifications
I sell DRUGS, alright? Heroin, coke, 'ludes, and Bongs. No, seriously,
if you MUST KNOW my FINANCIAL Situation, here goes: I was 5th in my class
of 320, and I received 2 scholarships. 3.9GPA, I think it was. Tuition
was paid for, I was single at the time, and most money went to my car.
I have no bills since I live at home, so I was living it REAL, and PHAT
"G." I was making like $7/hour, and working overtime and all, so I think
I cleared like uhm...$350/week maybe it was. I could afford some good
mods, and I went crazy.
Now, you look at the pages, and wonder about the rest of the bills. My
'95 GS-T was a graduation present. It was about 11 months old when I
rolled it. Insurance paid for it. Back to square one. Bought '96 GS-T,
with check from insurance co. My mom never bought any mods, I did.
>Hopefully I'm not the only one sick of Hank's bragging. Talking about
>his $6,000 dollar computer $2,000 dollar auto stereo system, $3,500
>dollar wheels, his champion horse, etc...
My computer had major malfunctions with all the stuff on it, so I returned
it. I now have a regular, slow-arse 200MMX, scanner, etc. I NEVER
installed a stereo system. My wheels were $2500. My horse isn't a
champion. Hell, I just put the saddle on him a few weeks ago. He's just
a colt still. Course, "Scout" did't mind the COMPLIMENT.
>I would be the first to admit that I'm jealous of Hank's car. Before
>the horse incident I saw it on his web site, and it was a beautiful
>machine. Nice racing stripes, big wing, nice dark tint, and beautiful
>wheels. It was a machine that anyone would be proud to own.
Thank you for the POSITIVE notes.
>However, I have a reason to be proud of my 90 Laser. I bought and paid
>for it myself. That is more of an accomplishment than having mommy and
>daddy hand you a car on a platter, and give you thousands for mods.
Again, graduation present, allbeit a VERY GOOD ONE, and I bought my OWN
MODS.
>So basically what I'm saying is that people who's parents buy their
>cars, shouldn't be talking trash in the first place. Hank's two big
>accomplishments in life are, "My car is faster than yours because my
>daddy gives me a bigger allowance." and, "I've totaled more Talons than
>you."
I'll admit, my car wasn't very fast. 50 out of 61 on the Draglist on the
FWD category. My fastest time, 14.92@95mph. I wasn't trying to impress
anyone but myself. My car was my office, away from home. I just take
pride in my vehicles, that's all. Whoa, do I have the record for most
wrecked DSMs? Count me in for an award at the shootout, eh?
Well, the flames are getting hotter, and my replies are getting
longer. If this keeps up, we'll be setting a TON of records for digests.
Sorry I was so long with my post, but I have to share MY SIDE too.
Hank Bell '96 Bombaro, 200MMX, and a Champion Horsie "Scout"
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:57:43 EST
Subject: Re: Mitsubishi Canadian Style
Message-ID: <#34>
Fellow DSMer's North of the Border, we will build them and they will come.
Maybe by 1999. Sorry for the wait!
Arnz 96 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:12:04 -0500
Subject: Cat Rant
Message-ID: <#35>
>Seems like my cat rant stirred the pot a bit.
Todd, you made an excellent point about running without a cat on the
street. It's wrong, no doubt. My two cents worth (at most), quoted from
an old Tower of Power tune from the late 1970's. It's always made me feel
uneasy about pointing the finger at those who stretch the bounds:
"I can't stand to see the slaughter, but still I eat the meat. I can't
stand dishonest people, but still sometimes I cheat. I can't stand that
air pollution, but still I drive a car. Maybe them's the reasons why,
things is like they are."
Bet not many DSMers remember The Tower, eh? :-)
Animal
(too old to be street rodding)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:14:04 -0600
From: Brad <[email protected]>
Subject: Cats vs. MPG
Message-ID: <#36>
People have mentioned getting much better gas mileage when using a test
pipe than with a catalytic converter. This causes a dilemma -- keep the
cat and help conserve the air, or lose the cat and help conserve fuel?
Just a thought.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 01:15:57 -0700
Subject: Re: o2 wire location
Message-ID: <#37>
You're looking in the right place, you're just not looking hard enough :). I
too had the exact same problem. I finally found it way up into the wall where
the wires come out of. It wasn't hanging with the rest of them, it was much
higher/farther in than the rest of them. It is a single wire, and you may
have to remove some tape to get to it. Pull on the entire mess of wires to
get more of the harness exposed and it may show itself. You're in the right
place, just keep looking!
Colby Leonard
'90 Talon AWD
IRC: Paid2IRC
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 23:09:57 -0500
Subject: psig and psia
Message-ID: <#38>
>PSIG = psi(gauge) and PSIA = psi(absolute)
Gauge pressure and absolute pressure differ by an amount equal to
atmospheric pressure. In other words, psia = psig + atmospheric pressure.
Boost the engine to 15 psig (as read on your boost gauge), then the
absolute pressure at the gauge will be 29.7 psia, since atmospheric
pressure at sea level is roughly 14.7 psi.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 05:44:38 -0500
From: "Gene Fine" <[email protected]>
Subject: Jiffy Lube problems and the Cat war
Message-ID: <#39>
I'm new to the list, and figured the comment from Andreas on Jiffy Lube
was the perfect chance to join in. I had a different, but just as
disconcerting problem with a Jiffy Lube in the Cincinnati Ohio area. Being
a college student, I don't have a garage to change my own oil, and had to
rely on other places to do it for me. I went to the Field Ertel Rd. Jiffy
Lube in Decemeber to get the oil changed, and supposedly they did. The
next week I took my car in to my local dealership (Kingswood
Chrysler-Plymouth--HIGHLY recommended, they are by far the best place I've
found for service, and make the high labor rate more than worth it) to get
some electrical work done after the gauges quit functioning. While there,
I asked them to look over the car, just to let me know if anything else
needed to be done. Luckily, they pronounced it with a perfect bill of
health (not bad for 120,000 hard-driven miles) but the service manager
asked me when my last oil change was. He showen me the oil they had
drained from my engine, and it was murky black...I had gone maybe 70-80
miles since I was at Jiffy Lube. Before I left for school in September, I
always did my own oil, so I knew how it looked after 3,000 miles, and this
was much worse. My theory is that they didn't replace the oil filter, but
when I went to the Jiffy Lube to complain, they just blew me off and said
that it was a problem with my car. Anyway, for reference, Mopar will
change the oil and lube any Laser, Talon or Eclipse for $25.00, same as the
quick-change places, and the guarentee the work.
Second, on the Cat issue...I'm running a test pipe through a hollow cat on
my 1.8L Laser, and when I went for my E-check here in Cincinnati early this
month, it passed with flying colors, so it doesn't produce THAT much more
crud than with the Cat, and it makes a huge difference in power from that
little engine.
Gene Fine
1993 1.8L Laser
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 02:16:58 -0800
From: "Jeremy Anderson" <[email protected]>
Subject: Power hungry [1G,T, RTP (if you want)]
Message-ID: <#40>
Hey all...
I've got a '91 TSi AWD I bought a few weeks ago with about 79k miles on it.
It's my first DSM car, and I must say I'm reasonably impressed. I've been
reading the Digest for just about as long, and I even crawled through some
backissues from 91... Some of the more interesting things that caught my eye
were various "mods" (like turbo guages/controllers) and even some guy
throwing out lists of "upgrades"... like this one I pulled from one of the
archived Digests:
Subject: More Archer Brothers Catalog
Date:
Thu, 10 Oct 91 11:19:33 EDT
From: "Edwin F. Gier" <crdec6.apgea.army.mil!efgier>
POWER PACKAGES
Stage I
Package Price: $ 425.99
K&N Air FilterStreet Legal Exhaust System
0-60 in 6.3 sec.
1/4 mile e.t. 14.64@ 94MPH
215 HP
______________________________________________________________________
Stage II
Package Price: $1,119.94
K&N Air FilterStreet Legal Exhaust System
Electronic Valve Controller set at 14 PSITurbo Boost Gauge w/mounting cup
0-60 in 5.4 sec.
1/4 mile e.t. 14.30@ 98MPH
240 HP
______________________________________________________________________
Stage III
Package Price: $3,815.69
K&N Air FilterStreet Legal Exhaust SystemElectronic Valve Controller
Turbo Boost Gauge w/mounting cup Pre-programmed Fuel Management System
Modified Air Mass Sensor High Volume/High Pressure Fuel PumpSport Turbo
Upgrade
Hight Performance Centerforce Clutch
0-60 in 4.69 sec.
1/4 mile e.t. @103MPH
325+HP
______________________________________________________________________
Anyway, I'm really quite anxious to sink some cash into my little baby now
that I know what she *can* do versus what she *could* be doing... and I'm
wondering how much of this stuff is for real (read: of any real help), where
I'd go / who I'd talk to in order to get more info, and what I can expect
for labor charges to do this kind of upgrade? (I'd do it myself, but I'm
not mechanically experienced enough to do much more than standard
maintenance and the occasional fuel filter replacement (which as we all know
is a real hassle on 1G DSMs ;)
Anyway, I live in the Seattle / Tacoma area in Washington... if any of you
out there have a suggestion as to who is a good high performance mechanic
who has done these kind of mods before to a DSM (hopefully more than once),
I'm all ears.
Also, who is K&N, and do they have a web presence?
Jer,
'91 TSi AWD
195 hp (I'm told), hoping to push 350 hp ASAP. ;)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:48:14 -0500
From: [email protected] (Khanh Vu)
Subject: RE: [2G] 95 cd changer in 98, and 98 ABS
Message-ID: <#42>
>>Alas, no, the changer will not work. They changed it in the 97 model year.
>>So far, there are no known aftermarket changers that will plug right in.
I was out shopping around for CD changers a while back, and was told by
numerous stereo shops around here that the Pioneer 6 discs had compatible
plugs to be a direct plug in, and be able to use the Infinity head unit
to control it... That came from like 3 stereo shops, so you might check it
out. I never ended up getting a changer for mine, cause I spent the money on
speed mods instead :/ So I don't know for a fact if this is true or not.
Khanh Vu
'97 Eclipse GST
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:52:07 -0600
Subject: RTP: Backpressure Myths, Cats, and Some Nifty New Info
Message-ID: <#43>
>"There's no such thing as backpressure."
I read your article about this a long time ago on the dsm home page.
Great article. I completely agree.
>New Stuff: I got a copy of Corky Bell's "Maximum Boost" last week. Run,
>do not walk, to the nearest web browser and order this book. TONS of
>great information, with a lot of detail placed on intercooler design and
>system efficiancy.
What's the URL for Corky Bell?
[He's an author. Do a search at www.amazon.com -talon mgr]
C. Brian Byers
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:21:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: footnote to my post on CO gas
Message-ID: <#44>
As a footnote to my post yesterday about carbon monoxide (CO) gas, my wife
tells me that people with CO poisoning turn red, not blue. CO is dangerous
because it moves more efficiently across the blood/brain barrier than
oxygen. I.e. even at relatively low CO concentrations when there is still
oxygen in the blood, the brain absorbs CO first, damaging cells.
Rory
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:43:30 -0500
From: "Kyle Zingg" <[email protected]>
Subject: WTB: 2G Tbody elbow, 1G shift handle
Message-ID: <#45>
[RTP to [email protected]]
WTB: a 2G throttle body elbow and a 1G tall shifter handle (stock) for
continuing parts development work.
Thanks,
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:50:50 -0500
Subject: [2g] Talon rear on an Eclipse
Message-ID: <#46>
I love my 2nd gen Eclipse, except for the ugly rear bumper (I have a
'95.) I've been thinking lately about getting the taillights and bumper
for the '95 or '97 Talon and putting them on the Eclipse. Does anyone
know if I can just buy the bumper cover, or do I have to buy the whole
bumper assembly?
Does anyone have the service manual for the 2nd gen eclipse, I have the
service manual for the 2nd gen Talon (I got it for $15, I figured 99% of
the information would apply to my Eclipse.) Maybe we could compare
notes?
Jonathan Sweet
'95 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 07:57:24 PST
From: "Robert Black" <[email protected]>
Subject: Windshield Washers (2g)
Message-ID: <#47>
I have a problem with my windshield washer fluid freezing in my '95
Talon. I've tried adding special ww antifreeze, but still when I start
my car in the morning, I cannot use the ww on the front or back windows.
Is there a fix for this?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 9:58:36 CST
Subject: re: collision
Message-ID: <#48>
>Also, since my zero deductible comprehensive doesn't
>cover this "collision" I am left with a $500 deductible. The dealer
>wants more than 200 bucks for the entire tail light (they don't sell
>just the lens)
Interesting. I had a similar situation with the Laser a few years back.
I was parked in a lot with a$$-end towards front and my front end facing
the lot. Someone over the night had "bumped" into my car. The front
lip of the hood got a wee bit scarred and the front clear lens got
scratched. My insurance said that comprehensive covers that not
collision since it was an obvious "hit and run". It was considered
vandalism. I went to the police department and got a report.
The insurance company I have is State Farm. Double check your policy.
Good luck.
[I've had a hit-and-run in a parking lot, plus that manhole-coverthrough-the-windshield vandalism while coming back from the ShootOut.
In both cases, State Farm paid on comprehensive. I was surprised,
really, at how nice they were in getting that paid off for me.
-talon mgr]
All insurance is good, until you need to use it.
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:21:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: emissions in Atlanta
Message-ID: <#49>
Hey,
Can anyone help me, I am going to be taking my car from NY to ATL
for insurance purposes. I was wondering how strict is the insurance.
I will be staying in East Point and need to find a place that I can
get my car inspected...
I will be driving down at the end of the month, I drive a 91 GSX list
of upgrades as far as exhaust concerned asr as follows.
Dave B. IC pipe
Dave B. Downpipe and Cat by pass.
Sebring muffler.
What I am wondering is if I am going to need to put my cat back on
the car in order to get the can to pass emissions...
Any help that I can get would be greatly Appreciated...
Jason
91 GSX...
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 11:06:22
Subject: Re: cats, Hank, and NASCAR!!
Message-ID: <#50>
Hey all,
Re: cats
I was going to let this cat con thing pass because I thought that basically
most people would agree that leaving the thing on is generally a good idea.
That was before I read the last couple of days' digest. Never before have I
seen so much rhetoric, hyperbole, and plain old horsesh$t spewed in the
defense of an indefensible position! Everything from "tree hugger"
conspiracies to "well so-and-so pollutes more than me" to "it's all the
fault of the Democrats!" and even "hey as long as I can breath during my
lifetime WTF!". Puhleezee! Yes, I am PARAPHRASING but this is the gist of
what was said by a more than a few people.
Look, I'm not a tree-hugger, although I do have a "woody" for nature, I
admit. :-0 I own a car, I make an effort to recycle, yada, yada. IOW, I'm
like most people. and while I don't think government is always fair or
consistent in it's environmental policy, I don't feel that it's any excuse
to not go along with the laws that make sense. And, cats make sense,
period! You can rationalize it all you want, but the bottom line is that if
you take the cat off your daily driver, you're helping to screw up the
environment. And unless you have some actual, evidence to the contrary, all
the anecdotal, half baked factoids in world can't justify your position.
Yes, there are circumstances where taking of your cat makes sense. But I
have yet to hear of a single one that applied to a street driven car. A few
more Hp? On the track, yes, but on the street? If a few more ponies is what
you need to pass that blue-haired grandma in her '69 Caddie, I suggest you
have other problems with your car that taking off your cat won't solve.
If you want to flame me for this, go ahead. Call me a tree-hugger (don't
think I qualify), a liberal (yes, guilty as charged!), or an a-hole (also
true), I don't give a sh$t. You're welcome to come by and suck on my
tailpipe to prove your point, though. I'll even take my cat off. And if
you're still alive after 5 minutes, I'll gladly admit I was wrong. :-)
RE: Hank
I don't get on IRC so I don't know the deal. But I think we should give the
guy a break. Yeah, he shouldn't be complaining about the horse thing since
he put it out there in a way that invited a little humor. But whether his
parents bought him his cars or not isn't the issue. And if he brags, so
what? It doesn't affect our universe. Personally, I say more power to him.
I got my 1st new car only 5 years ago and I'm pushing 40. My parents had
money, but I wouldn't take it, for my own reasons. So I started with a dime
when I was 13 and earned almost every penny I ever had since. In
retrospect, life would have been a WHOLE lot easier if I had let mom and
dad foot some of the bill. So if Hank's parents are helping him (and none
of us knows that, nor is it any of our business) all I can say is, hey
Hank, you want an adopted brother. I'll let you drive my GST. :-)
Well, I guess I've made enough enemies for one day,
Later
Jim
Tree-hugger, liberal, all around great guy! ;-D
PS My company is getting into NASCAR! We are already a sponsor for Kenny
Walbourough(sp) and we'll be fielding a team soon. I'm already trying to
weasel my way on to the pit crew. I offered to work for airfare and
hotel. :-)
Look for a tiny logo on Ken's car that says "AFS". It's on the driver's
side rear, I'm told. If you knew how much that little thing cost, you'd
freak. Let's just say it cost almost enough to buy 50 brand new GSXs
with all the trimmings.
Say, now that the company is getting in to NASCAR I wonder if they would
be interested in sponsoring other automotive events.
Hmmm...
The guy charge of the sponsorship thinks I walk on water...
Hmmmm...
The CEO and I are on a first name basis and he likes my car...
Hmmm...
Import racing has been gaining prestige lately...
Hmmmm...
Uh, gotta go... ;-D
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 10:31:47 EST
Subject: cats, stereo, dyno
Message-ID: <#51>
>Now that the adjustment is maxed out my clutch engages about a half inch
>from the floor.
I think the latest fix for that is to unthread the clutch fork pivot from the
bellhousing, put some washers behind it (about 1/8" worth), and rethread it
back into place. Sometimes the fork itself can be worn, bent, or broken too.
>while scrolling through the entry list for this year's race I came across a
>GSX that will be running in GTS3 aganst the M3, 911 NT, RX7, and ...
I was watching an Australian GT race on Speedvision last weekend and it had
a
Mitsubishi Lancer running with a Viper, some 911s, a Ferrari 355 Challenge, a
Supra, and a few other really nice cars. It aired right after the Touring
Car special. It only showed the Lancer for a very short period of time, but
the front mount it had sure looked nice.
>I'm sure we could use the exact same valve, but I imagine it is not 3"
>on a stock 3000. I wonder if that part has been reverse-engineered for
>the replacement market by any american company.
Oooph, that's a good point about the size. I doubt any company would include
such a feature in an aftermarket exhaust: too complex and expensive for a
small volume.
>On another note. I wonder if you could modify a racing external WG.
>Anyone make a 3" WG.
Not that I've seen, and that would be VERY expensive.
>We are installing a Dyno in the new building along with...
So is is going to be the ever-sought-after AWD dyno?
>Cut-outs before the cat are illegal. EVEN IF THEY ARE CLOSED ON THE
>ROAD, THEY ARE ILLEGAL SO YOU CAN'T DO THIS AND OPEN THEM AT THE
TRACK.
I didn't realize that. That shoots down plan A. With plan B, I've only
found butterfly valves in the 2" diameter. Some exist in the 3" diameter,
but at $1168 dollars each, they apparently aren't designed for an exhaust
system modification.
[Here's where CARB and EPA make it extremely hard for someone who is
really trying to comply with the spirit of the law. I hate it when
they do that. Their complete unreasonableness on some common-sense
issues is why people write off almost anything they say. Like
digging their own grave. -talon mgr]
Back to the drawing board,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 12:22:14 -0500
Subject: Limited Slip Differential
Message-ID: <#52>
Well, now that the cat/no-cat debate has died down a little (I hope!),
maybe we can move onto a different subject. How about one of you
engineer types (Dennis Grant or the like) explaining a limited slip? Its
use in an AWD, what it does, how it does, what happens without one. I
saw a few posts last week about the AWD system on a dsm, maybe someone
could give a little disertation on it and on other AWD systems (subaru
is always touting the beauty of AWD... the AWD DSM owners knew it for
quite a while I think though ;-)).
Also, I'm thinking of buying an AWD DSM, probably 90 or 91 (love those
pop-up ligths!) for as cheap as I can get, then do some work on it
myself. I'd hate to break something on my daily driver (a '97 I won't
say what) but if something breaks on a car I tinker with, no big loss.
If anyone has any tips/suggestions/flames/free parts they'd like to give
me, RTP.
Ernie
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 3:15:51 EST
From: "Shift Test Engr. Bldg. 9 3rd flr. (808) 471-8976"
<[email protected]>
Subject: Jiffy Lube
Message-ID: <#53>
>Two of them, looking around making sure nobody's seeing, opened the
>trunk of a car (since when do you need to open the trunk to change oil?)
>and went thru the many shopping bags with the Nordstorm name on
>them.
WTF!...that's disgusting. May I suggest that you write a letter to
the store manager/owner with a copy to Jiffy Lube's main office explaining
what your girlfriend saw? That store should screen their prospective
employees and keep a sharp eye on them -- for its own sake and for the
good of the corporation, which won't tolerate any such b_llsh_t, I assure
you.
Animal
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:20:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [1g,t] My car lives, borrowed a Supra, 1g head for sale
Message-ID: <#54>
At last, my car lives. As some of you may recall, my timing belt went
rather badly. 42k miles on my '94 Talon AWD. Some have since pointed out
that I might've been able to strong-arm Eagle into covering the repair,
even though I couldn't transfer the warranty. Ahh, well, I'll try that
next time. Which had better not happen!
Given that I'm an apartment dweller, and for various reasons it is
inconvenient to work on cars at my parents' home, I ended up paying for
this one. Had a spare head from my wrecked car, which Gary Selph was kind
enough to remove for me, since I'd given him the remains of the wreck.
Since he and his g/f both have 92 AWD's they'll hopefully get some good
parts off my wreck! What a cute couple, with matching sports cars!
So, armed with a replacement head, I left things in the hands of Peachtree
Mitsu, who did an excellent job. Took me a few days to get my act
together, but once I got the car to them, they finished the work quickly
and correctly. My only minor complaint was that they left the oil pressure
sender lead lose, and it fell off on the way home. Was surprised to look
down and realize I had no oil pressure, but I pulled over and put the wire
back on by the side of the road. Other than that, the car runs perfectly.
This little event cost me a good chunk of money, and I'm hoping that it
won't happen again. Worse yet, I was stuck driving a base model Neon for a
number of days. I'm sure this is a good car for someone, but it wasn't for
me. Anemic engine, and the most pitiful automatic tranny I have
encountered to date. While my friends laughed at me, I was in automotive
hell. Except for one bright moment...
I managed to borrow a twin turbo Supra for a few days in there. The dealer
was just a little too anxious to sell it to me, to the point where I was
irritated by their tactics. So I let them loan it to me. I'll be damned
if I'll drive a rental Neon instead of a TT Supra. This was serious fun.
I was actually rather gentle with the car, since it wasn't mine, but it was
enjoyable nonetheless. RWD, though, still gives something up to AWD. You
just can't do certain things as well with RWD. Fun, though.
And that's the end of my saga. Now, it's racin' season. For those of you
in or around Georgia, Silver Dollar Raceway opens on Saturday, Jan 31st.
Gates open at noon, racing from 1-5pm. Nice track, I thought. Friendlier
staff than at Commerce. Drop me a line if you're thinking about going.
Oh, I'm sick of my job. If anyone in Atlanta knows of some cool Unix &
stuff, preferably on contract, let me know!
And one more thing. I've got the old head from my car. The valves are...
bent! I'd like to take some pics and put 'em up, but after that, the head
is for sale. Make me an offer...
'nuff for now.
Allen Belletti
'94 Talon AWD, back on the road!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:25:55 -0500
From: Kevin <[email protected]>
Subject: cat convertor heatup time
Message-ID: <#55>
I feel the need to retort to the heatup times stated for cat convertors
on cars. My father works in Ford MoCo's Allen Park emissions test lab.
On their EPA tests the cars must have all emissions-related equipment
heated to operating temps within 30 seconds. This includes the cat.
I'm not sure, but I think this test has to work at idle also. The
honeycomb in that cat has TONS of surface area and very little mass. It
doesn't take much to heat it and the outside of the cat doesn't have to
be cherry red to mean that its heated.
Kevin
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:33:52 -0600
From: [email protected] (smokin)
Subject: I can't believe I'm getting into this
Message-ID: <#56>
Well, here I am, getting involved in something I know nothing about. But,
with the humorous postings of late, I can't resist.
I especially like the argument about bigger engines producing more
"pollution." On the same note, my 1996 Honda CBR600F3 doesn't have a cat,
and it has <gasp> carbs! What the heck is going on here? My guess is
that small, efficient engines don't need a catalytic converter. Maybe the
car makers should make an engine so beautifully engineered that it makes
~95HP from .6 liters, lesse, some quick math and we'd all be driving around
in 316HP DSMs. Of course, we all know smaller engines can make more
HP/liter than larger displacement engines. So, for our purposes we can
round off to 300HP.
Wait a second, I'm making 300HP right now...
Also, on a more serious note, I would like to find out some information on
water injection. Has anyone out there experimented? Does anyone know of
some books or companies that deal with water injection?
Dave Flaherty
irc SmokinDav
P.S. Still waiting to hear from the Florida crowd. I'll be there the
last/first weekend of the month for Daytona, then down to Miami/Ft.
Lauderdale for some well deserved R&R.
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 21 Jan 1998 14:32:13 -0500 (EST)
From: "James J. Heck" <[email protected]>
Subject: 90 radio in a 91??
Message-ID: <#57>
Members,
I recently purchased a 91 GSX to be my race car as I retire my 90
GSX to be a daily driver. The 91 came with only a tape deck and no CD
player. Does anyone know if my cd/tape/radio from my 90 will fit my 91?
Both cars are Eclipse's if that makes a difference with the harnesses.
Please let me know as I would rather put a nice stereo in the
daily driver and not the racer.
Thanks all.
James
[email protected]
------------------------------
From bouncer Thu Jan 22 21:09:43 1998
for talon-digest-approved on Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:09:43 -0800
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:00:01 -0800
Precedence: list
Today's Topics:
1) Louis J. Bogiani
Cosole cover/ fog lights
2) Mark DeBusschere
1g BOV for 2G a simple job?
3) Archeracin
dsm's at the 24hr of daytona
4) Paul Lyons
belt tension
5) Chislett
RE: 2G T AWD top speed
6) Kevin Shimp
Need help diagnosing possible problem.
7) Johnathan P. Gaetz '95 TSi AWD (AT) CE light and Error codes (longish
8) Jardon
MAS Screw on 1G NT
9) Robert Walz (OPTICS) 02, Magnecor, and BG
10) JChristou
ABS with LSD on a '91 AWD
11) Toast
In defence of RUFRIDR...
12) WildTalon
2Gt BOV's max boost, front mount [RTP]
13) J. Chris Roth
[1G,T] Garrett & shootout footage
14) Kyle Zingg
[1G] camber bolts
15) lowell
pre-94 BOV on Lancer EVO IV?
16) lowell
BR front mount with 16G
17) Mark Rieb
Strange Problem and War Story
18) Steve
Re: Lifter Tick Problems/Solutions
19) John Li
Re: blitz boost controller
20) Allen Leung
Galant VR4 for sale
21) John Li
Re: [2g] Talon rear on an Eclipse
22) Greg Haines
CO Poisoning
23) Shawn Jewett
Putting the TEST to the TESTPIPE
24) Mac Crossett
Cats and air tubes
25) mikeb6
2g, t, fwd-vibration, b.o.v. dumptube mod
27) Frank Mowry
'96 TSI AWD for sale in VA.
28) Morley, Tim C.
2G T AWD top speed
29) Josh Wingell
Manhole?! and Most Frequent Poster
30) Jonathan Davies
FS:'92 Tsi AWD, Raleigh, NC
31) Andre Dault
Re: My fellow Canadians...
32) Gawlowski, David
Burnt TSI and fire extinguishers
33) Andre Dault
Re: RTP: Backpressure Myths, Cats, and Some Nifty
34) Eric Herring
Water Injection, Exhaust, Race friday
35) David Scott
Rev noise/vibration
36) Dan Sides
rough idle and compression numbers
37) smokin
misc stuff
38) okazakik
Muffler repair (cheap fix, works great)
39) gselph
DP nuts, cats, ATL emmissions, water inj
40) Randy Nuckels
Fog Lights + Park Lights
41) Dan Kim
boost creep
42) Dennis Grant
Advanced Turbo Theory Part 1 - Turbo Sizing
43) Andrew Bienhaus
Re: [2G] 95 cd changer in 98
44) Randy Nuckels
[1G T] 1990 vs 1991 Oil Coolers getting loose.
45) Mike Richman
Faint ratcheting noise from transmission
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
the digest.
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:31:42 -0500
From: "Louis J. Bogiani" <[email protected]>
Subject: Cosole cover/ fog lights
Message-ID: <#1>
I recently went to buy the center console cover for my 2g Eclipse, and
thinking both Talon and Eclipse covers may be the same I decided to buy
it from Eagle since it was cheaper. To make the story short, it wasn't
the same, but now I can't return it cos it was special ordered.
I paid around 50 bucks for it and now its useless, so if anyone needs it
let me know.
Another thing, Im looking to buy the fog lights but satan charges me
around 2 hundred and something for each, plus the brackets and the
covers, in total around 650 bucks for the whole deal!...is there anyway
I can get some used ones around? Im looking for '97 or 98 type fog
lights
Thanx
Louis
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:49:46 -0800
From: Mark DeBusschere <[email protected]>
Subject: 1g BOV for 2G a simple job?
Message-ID: <#2>
I have a 96 GSX which I promised myself that I would
keep completely stock. Though, this list makes it hard to
keep that idea focused.
If one installs a 1G bov is the process a simple swap?
I don't want to modify anything but the BOV.
I don't want new exhaust, a new gauge, bleeder, etc.
Note, I am mechanically inclined but do not understand
what all the pieces are and their function yet.
Also, would swapping only the BOV's be worth it?
If it's not obvious I want to add just a little
horsepower with out having to worry about problems
that would / could be induced by changing more parts.
p.s. If this is a FAQ no flames please, just point
me in the right direct.
Thanks for listening and best wishes,
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:37:11 EST
From: Archeracin <[email protected]>
Subject: dsm's at the 24hr of daytona
Message-ID: <#3>
hello everyone... just saw morgan smith's post about the gsx running in the 24
hours of daytona and just thought I would let all of you know that the car is
our old world challange car that willy lewis drove to 2 championships they
have changed the car very much from our talon to the gsx and bigger wings for
the high banking at daytona and a bigger front spoiler for the downforce
needed also, last thursday they had the first night test and they would have
made the field with the times they were running and the speeds from the gsx
were pretty high like 170's at the start finish line. lets just hope the car
lasts 24hrs with a turbo that is supposed to be rebuilt every 16 hours. so
just thought I would let everyone know and we are helping them out with all
the
parts to hopefully suprise alot of people... thanks again all of you
john archer
archer racing
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:42:50 -0600
Subject: belt tension
Message-ID: <#4>
>We watched the pulley
>whine and not one of us reached in to check the belt tension! Come to
>find out -- after I had it towed to a friends garage --- the alternator
>tension screw had somehow popped out of the fork and released all
>tension on the belt.
FYI this should never happen. The alterntor has a bolt that keeps it from
moving as well as a pivot bolt that gets tightened. The adjustment bolt
need not be tight to keep tension on the belt. The bolt that does the real
work is at the top of the alternator. Make sure this one is tight.
"never forget the basics" A lesson I have learned well.
Paul(Pauley)Lyons
90 Tsi AWD
IRC Pauley-Man
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:42:53 -0500
From: Chislett <[email protected]>
Subject: RE: 2G T AWD top speed
Message-ID: <#5>
Hey, this is fun. My second entry in as many days.
'95 TSi AWD absolutely nothing aftermarket... 255 KPH. For those of you
with the MPH on the outside, that's about 155. No limiter here.
>At 140 mph I was beginning to feel a bit nervous so I let up.
Don't' be nervous, Vincent
Geoff
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:14:16 PST
Subject: Need help diagnosing possible problem.
Message-ID: <#6>
Hi gang. Got a question (don't I always).
I was driving home tonight, and I noticed something very odd. My car is
a 95 Talon TSi FWD AT. Here is what I noticed.
When I accelerate, if I gave the gas just enough gas to register zero
boost, or slightly below zero on my VDO gauge, I get this sound that
fluctuates between a whistle and rushing air(no whistle). If I give it
just a little more gas, it just whistles. I don't remember the
fluctuation happening before, but it could have. Does this sound right
to anyone? Could I have a possible boost leak, or wastegate problem?
My mods are 3" TR&D cat-back, Extreme DIS intake, David Brode's 2.25"
upper IC pipe, pre-95 BOV, and WGS restrictor removed. All my mods were
done a few months ago, EXCEPT the upper IC pipe, which I did about 2
weeks ago.
The car still runs fine, has lots of power, but the fluctuation is what
I don't understand.
Can someone please help me out? I am not too knowledgable about
checking the WG, etc.
Thanks
Kevin
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:22:21 -0600
From: "Johnathan P. Gaetz" <[email protected]>
Subject: '95 TSi AWD (AT) CE light and Error codes (longish)
Message-ID: <#7>
Hi all,
I promised an update to my problem (circa 1/1/98) and here it is!
I'm the guy that's wanted an Eagle since about '91 and finally got
around to getting a used '95 on the last day of 1997. As I was
driving it off the lot, the Check Engine light came on and stayed.
Well, I called the dealer the next day and demanded they take back
the car because it was obviously 'broken' (I've found playing stupid
with Satan works wonders at times). They said it was probably nothing
and they'd fix whatever was wrong. So, less than 7 days after
purchase, my new car goes to the shop. The mechanic they assigned to
work on it couldn't find any trouble codes (but he mumbled something
about a "fuel trim" error) so he just reset the ECU. They also were
thoughtful enough to perform the gas-tank recall service. Well, I get
my car back and the gas gauge is non-functional (stuck at just under
1/4 mark) and the CE light came back on about 10 minutes after leaving
the shop. DOH. So, I go back and told them the gas gauge wasn't
working and the CE light was back on. They replace the float (and
now the inside of my car smells *strongly* of gasoline) and reset the
ECU *again*. Of course, the next day the light comes on again. I
return again and explained very slowly that I'm ready to involve a
lawyer unless they resolve the CE light issue properly. I told them
that I thought it was probably an O2 sensor since the car was getting
an average of about 8 to 12 MPG and I was being very nice and easy on
the throttle. Satan tells me "well, those cars have 2 O2 sensors and
if either one goes bad it'll set a code in the ECU. Yours hasn't set
any code so its probably not that. I say fine ... Fix whatever the
hell is wrong or we're going to have trouble. So, they get
their 'old-time' eagle mechanic to work on my car and lo! He figures
out the upstream O2 sensor is shot. 2 days later, that's replaced and
my car's been running fine since (complete with that damned gas stench
inside. I can't wait till summer to air it out).
Things I've learned from reading my shop manuals:
~ The ECU trouble codes are detailed in chapter 14 (split into sections
A and B for Turbo and Non-Turbo, respectively). People asked that I
pass this on and here it is.
~ On 2g turbos there is no way to check the trouble codes without some
type of diagnostic eq to read it from the diagnostic port (a 16-pin
female D-type connector looking thing)
~ Dealerships have earned the Satan designation. (well, maybe this was
empirical and not from reading my shop manuals 8)
Now a request: Would any kind soul in/around Chicagoland feel like
pointing out all the various parts/pieces inside my engine compartment?
I grew up in a garage, but have almost zilch experience with turbos
and non-normally aspirated cars and the respective components that go
with them. I suppose this request can wait until summer unless the
same person has access to a heated garage 8)
Thanks for the time/help I received on IRC.
Johnathan aka Arioch
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 21:48:42 -0500
Subject: MAS Screw on 1G NT
Message-ID: <#8>
Does anyone know if the NTs have a MAS Screw, they should, right,
because I can't seem to find it on my Talon 1G, NT's MAS. I looked
everywhere possible and can't seem to find that darn Screw, nor that
"lower honeycomb" mentioned in other posts. All I can see on my MAS
is two plastic tubes (The Bypass), and on top of them, the MAS
itself, with just ONE Honeycomb (The Upper One?). And the closest
thing to a "screw" I found were two small plastic plugs (Which I
removed), on one end of the MAS's base (Not part of anything). I
also, in a craze for more performance, tried removing the Bypass, but
it only led to uneven Idle, so I had to paste it (Yes, paste it, the
only way to get it out was to "gently rip it appart" :), back again.
I don't know if I'm just interpreting the posts wrong or my MAS is
indeed different. Anyone care to comment?
Thanks!
Alex
'93 Talon ES
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Wed, 21 Jan 1998 21:07:54 -0600 (CST)
"Robert Walz (OPTICS)" <[email protected]>
Subject: 02, Magnecor, and BG
Message-ID: <#9>
Hello all,
I have a '92 Laser AWD and it is time for some work. I have had the car
for almost two years now and it has always given me trouble but I keep it
for its potential and I can not afford anything else. First the rear Xfer
case went out, 800.00 then the timing belt broke and took the head with it
1500.00, the windows pop track, the O2 keeps going out, I am doing 20 psi
in the first cylinder, and I have a burned out driving light. But it
still gets me to work. I am going to put new plugs and wires in it and I
want some Magnecor wires. I live in north Alabama so does does anyone
have a suggestion on a distributor? I would also like to try some BG
because I have a very notchy trans. I figure I'll just get by with the
car as is for now. I graduate this spring and my fiance finishes her
masters the same time so by this fall I should have about 2500.00 to spend
on the car. I am going to rebuild the motor and do some mods to it then.
Well I would appreciate any help.
Thanks
Bobby
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 21:53:21 EST
From: JChristou <[email protected]>
Subject: ABS with LSD on a '91 AWD
Message-ID: <#10>
Recently I installed a 4 bolt rear with LSD in my '91. Since it came with
ABS the LSD wasn't an original option because of reported conflicts with the
ABS system. The '92+ AWD's have a different ABS computer to cope with this.
After brake testing the new setup in the rain, both straight, and turning I
can't see any difference. The problem may only show itself in the snow and
ice, where the torque bias of the rear exceeds the available grip to the rear
tires.
If anyone has an ABS computer from a 1G AWD with LSD for sale let me know,
I want one to experiment with.
John C.
Hotsauce on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 22:27:29 -0800
From: Toast <[email protected]>
Subject: In defence of RUFRIDR...
Message-ID: <#11>
(Lots and lots of sarcasm...)
John, you seem to have a real attitude problem. First of all, is it a
RULE that 19 yr olds cannot afford to buy a brand new $20,000 car or so
because I have yet to see it in writing. Let's take a closer look at
this situation here. I am 19, I received a full scholarship and I am in
college. Do you know what that means? That means that whatever money
I earn can be blown off on just about any damn thing that I want to
spend it on. Let's see, yes I do live in the real world. I have no
mortage payments. I earn $7.50/hr working as a S.T.N.A (everybody say
oooh ;-) ) and I rake in an unholy $700/month. I work part time and I
am currently taking 21 credits. Now, I bought a 98 GSX, financed with
the lovely Diamond Star Advantage Program, and get this, I pay my own
insurance too! But, of course you probably assumed that my parents
paid for my insurance because *nooo* 19yr old could do that. This is
how a college student can afford a nice car. I am sure that there are
many many many other college students also doing the exact same thing.
It is nothing new or special.
I really think you should stop and think a situation through before you
go out and blast someone. You see, some people here really want
something so they WORK extra HARD to get it. I remember in June of 94 I
saw a review of the soon to be released 95GSX and it was love at first
sight. I ASKED my parents to buy me this car and they thought I was
nuts! Well, I was. I have worked, studied, and saved whatever I
could so that I could get into a GSX. Now, you are blasting Hank
because instead of working and paying for his own car he has diligently
studied hopefully ensuring himself a nice future. It seems to me that
his parents realized the value of his efforts and decided to reward him
accordingly. I am sure that he could have blown off his studies and
saved up to buy a fat 90 Laser RS 2.0 non-turbo. Of course, because
then he could be proud of the car he drives. Please, just this once
look at the big picture.
>Hank's two big
>accomplishments in life are, "My car is faster than yours because my
>daddy gives me a bigger allowance." and, "I've totaled more Talons than
>you."
Let's see, you are WRONG on both accounts. Hank worked and paid for his
own mods so that is why his car is faster. (Of course it was faster
than yours to begin with but I won't go there). Second, to my
knowledge, Hank has never totaled any Talons to my knowledge. I am
pretty sure they are Eclipses. Looks like you have no beef left then
right? (That was sarcastic if you didn't get the hint).
In conclusion, I think you are being very prejudiced. Let's see, you
paid for your car so anyone who didn't has no right whatsoever to brag
about their car. Grow up. In the real world, some of us are given
silver spoons and some of us are stuck with plastic sporks. That's just
the facts of life.
On a somewhat related note, I am curious as to why this thread has
managed to stay on the Digest. Yes I know I am being hypocritical.
But, as far as I can tell, this has turned into a Hank bashing which
really serves no purpose except to start a flame war. Of course I will
most likely receive some flames over this but I felt too strongly about
this issue to let it slide.
Toast
98 GSX-To be retrieved from the body shop this Thursday =)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 22:59:09 EST
From: WildTalon <[email protected]>
Subject: 2Gt BOV's max boost, front mount [RTP]
Message-ID: <#12>
Hey everybody!
I know there are a lot of BOV's out there, so could you let me know what are
the highest boost pressures held for each of the valves before they leak.
My car is going to the dealer for the last time on Monday. My warranty is
about up, so I'm going to temporarily remove what little mods I have and get
what I can out of them. Why the heck do Eclipses have a longer drivetrain
warranty anyway? it is the same freakin' car! Anyone ever couple a good
front mount I/C with a 16G?
Well, TIA and RTP.
Bryan '96 Wildberry AWD (also a tree hugger)
~speeding and rolling through stops is enough law breaking for me
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 22:06:43 -0800
Subject: [1G,T] Garrett & shootout footage
Message-ID: <#13>
I got my Garrett H3/T3 turbo in from Majestic Turbo earlier this week.
Damn it looks good, the only complaint is the tiny wastegate they come
with. Once it is on the car I will be able to provide a real review.
I am taking pictures so that everyone will know what a Garrett
conversion on a 1G DSM is all about.
So far it looks like exhaust manifold adapter, new downpipe, and new
oil and coolant lines. Depending on how it all fits, we may have to
move the engine mount below the turbo and/or move the oil filter.
Right now it is with the guys at Speed Design in Godfrey IL. These
guys are just plain awesome, providing all kinds of help and custom
work for me. I highly recommend these guys to anyone who needs port
work, intake or exhaust work (they make great upper IC pipes), or just
want to talk DSM stuff. I can't wait till their souped up 95 hits the
road again - then we can have the Garrett powered DSM race (I know you
guys are reading this too ;)
I was e-mailing with somebody who was asking for home video footage of
the last shootout, caravan, and plant tour area. Let me know who you
are so I can get what I have out to you. Don't know what I did with
your last message...
Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD (broken turbo)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:30:02 -0500
Subject: [1G] camber bolts
Message-ID: <#14>
I was looking through the archives about slotting the struts at the hub
(top hole) and adjusting camber with eccentric bolts. There was one
comment by Greg Granville (way back in '92) regarding the expense (~$40)
from Archer for those bolts . Couldn't you use the 1G AWD rear eccentric
camber bolts in the front struts as an economical alternative? They
appear to be the same diameter, but I haven't taken the car apart to be
sure.
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:37:23 -0800
Subject: pre-94 BOV on Lancer EVO IV?
Message-ID: <#15>
In the latest Racecar Engineering there's a write up on a few WRC cars.
Neat shot of the underside of an Escort w/ an MMC propshaft... but on page
10 there's an under hood shot of a Lancer EVO IV with what I swear is a 1st
gen BOV. Anyone else have this issue?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:36:52 -0800
Subject: BR front mount with 16G
Message-ID: <#16>
>Has anyone installed a Buschur front mount I/C in conjunction
>with a 7cm 16G turbo?
Dave B. built me a 16G to work with one of his front mount kits, but it was
a one off deal and not something he sells. What you need to do is turn the
compressor housing so it points downwards and remount the wastegate
actuator to the housing. You also need a flange-to-2" OD compressor outlet
piece. If you want to talk to the person who has this turbo now, it's
Harkirat Sandhu ([email protected]). That scammer still owes me $350 on it...
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 20:46:59 -0800
Subject: Strange Problem and War Story
Message-ID: <#17>
The Strange Problem:
I have been having a part throttle stumble problem and getting the ECU error
code 44 (ignition coil pack). This last weekend, I ran the diagnostic from
the manual on the coil and I found that the input to the coil was out of
spec. I got a reading of 1.4 ohms between pins 1 and 2 and 1 and 3, the max
allowable by the manual is 0.95 ohms. No problem, as I had in hand a new
coil pack and power transistor from Archer Racing (best deal anywhere, John
sold me a new in box coil and power transistor for $130, even the good
dealers want that much *apiece*). Swapped the coil and power transistor
out. I did not run the diagnostic on the power transistor as I didn't want
to fool with trying to splice together a 1.5v power supply, so I don't know
if the transistor was out of spec or not.
The car runs much better now, the idle seems more stable and no more stutter
or miss for now. I will clear the error codes and see if they come back
anytime soon.
Now the strange problem: The exhaust note for the car has changed
considerably. Before I changed out the coil I had noticed that on some days
the car was quieter than others and sometimes the tone/noise level would
change in mid-drive. Where the exhaust was "boomy" and sort of raspy and
resonated in the car, now it is a nice tolerable growl. Also before on
deceleration in gear the exhaust would rasp or sputter a bit, now it is nice
and even.
Has changing the coil out for one that is working properly caused this
change in exhaust sound? If so, how/why?
War Story:
Headed to work this morning at 06:30 I pull up on a 2g Eclipse, nice silver
with 17" wheels, big wing, dark tint, but stock exhaust. As we pull up to a
light, I rev match and downshift and let the exhaust bark some. He looks
over and then kind of ignores me. Oh well, I hate to pick on "family"
anyway. Then as the light turns green he revs hard and takes off. Of
course by this time I think I am lost. I jump on the gas and run through
1st, grab 2nd and the headlights hardly even focus on the road (anybody else
notice that if you get a good launch and a good shift that the headlights
stay pointed at the sky and not the road?). Winding up through 2nd gear I
look over and notice that I have pulled my front bumper in front of his.
All of a sudden Unghhh! Damn fuel cut, nope rev limiter, hit 3rd and really
start to pull. Get about half a car length and let up for the next light.
Boy does 1st and 2nd gear go by fast with a 16g at 17 psi and a big exhaust!
I tried to get the guys attention to let him know where he can fix his power
problem and not get beat by 4-door cars, but he wouldn't even look at
me... I'll have to find his car and leave him a Club DSM business card
some day.
Mark Rieb
'92 GVR-4, #334/1000
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 00:23:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Lifter Tick Problems/Solutions
Message-ID: <#18>
>But I am concerned about a fairly load ticking noise.
>It sounds kinda like a sewing machine...
>That's the lifter tick, no two ways about it.
One other possibility is injector noise. I had one really bad case of
tapping for about a year. Finnaly the problem was solved- without
changing oils or lifters. I had everyone and their mothers telling me my
tapping noise was the lifters but I swore I heard the noise from the
fuelrail. Having my injectors balanced and blue-printed solved the
problem temporarily. A new fuel filter, different brand of gas, and some
extremely spirited driving (aka kicking moostang a$$) cleaned out
whatever was creating havoc with my fuel system. It's been about 2
months and I haven't heard a single noise since.
I got acouple questions (RTP). Can a 95+ exhaust manifold be bolted
directly to a 1G head? Mine is really starting to blow bad and I heard
the 2G flow better. Also, for my inquisitive mind, what would you see
on a vac/boost gauge at WOT in a n/a engine? Does it still produce vac
or is it 0?
Thanks,
Steve
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:36:16 -0600 (CST)
From: [email protected] (John Li)
Subject: Re: blitz boost controller
Message-ID: <#19>
>Would anybody be interested in getting a special on the dual blitz controller?
What exactly does this unit have that other units from HKS or Greddy do not
have? I'm sure someone on this list has pondered on whether to get the
blitz unit vs other makes. The 'Dual' mode that controls hi and low rpm,
can other units control this and is this feature important, and when is it
important.
Can someone list the features can a comparison on them?
JL
`97 GSX waiting to breathe fresh air and cooling down properly.
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 22 Jan 1998 00:50:17 -0500
From: "Allen Leung" <[email protected]>
Subject: Galant VR4 for sale
Message-ID: <#20>
I have a 1991 white Galant VR4 for sale. Its located in NYC.
Its totally stock, but has new factory clutch, new timing belt,
new valves, and new Michelin E MXV4s (4). I'm asking $6500.
If interested email me, [email protected]
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 23:58:30 -0600 (CST)
From: [email protected] (John Li)
Subject: Re: [2g] Talon rear on an Eclipse
Message-ID: <#21>
As a matter of fact I have seen the reverse being done. I was in
Vancouver, B.C. and I remember seeing a white Eclipse-like Talon on the
street. More than likely this is a Talon, because there are no real
Eclipse on the Canadian streets. This is with the exception of imports by
returning Canadians for those occasional 3000GT's (mostly VR4's and a
couple of Spyders). The Eclipse like Talon has both the `97+ Front and
Rear Aprons and the Turbo Spoiler. They are nicely integrated. The sides
skirts are the `95-96 Talon Side mouldings (the one with an upward stroke,
a la M3), which incidently I think is prettier than the current Eclipse or
Talon side skirts. I forgot what type of lights he has (don't think is the
blacked out housing of the `97+). I think the car was lowered and rides on
17" volk racing wheels and also has a large bore exhaust. Can't tell what
he got under the hood. Is the owner on this list?
BTW, I'll be importing my 97 GSX back to Canada in a few months. Hope this
will help promote Eclipse and its sales for the year 2000. :)
John Li
`97 GS-X
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 01:12:39 -0500
Subject: CO Poisoning
Message-ID: <#22>
Just a quick post, one I couldn't let go by. CO poisoning
doesn't cause a blue color (cyanosis)of the skin. It causes a
cherry red coloring! The smokers have emphysema and their lungs
won't transfer enough oxygen to make the blood redder, there's
too much CO2 in the blood which produces the blueish coloration.
That's all.
Greg Haines
PbPedis
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 01:50:02 -0800
Subject: Putting the TEST to the TESTPIPE
Message-ID: <#23>
Hey guys,
With all the talk as of late, I have an idea for a little test. Does
anyone have a buddy who works at an emissions testing station who can
help us out?
Take a car, FWD so it can do a rolling test, and test it with the stock
cat installed. Then put on a highflow cat, then a testpipe. Preferably
use a car with an aftermarket exhaust and fuel pump etc. Have a car that
is about at stage 1 mods. This is because a lot of people have just an
intake, exhaust, etc. Don't use a 12.2 sec car with a VPC or a PMS,
these might actually help lower the emissions. Don't use a totally stock
car either.
Have someone who is totally unbiased so the results are not swayed in
one direction. Post all the results to the list...not to convince
people it is ok to run without a cat if it passes either, I'm not
looking to say "told you so" my car will pass without a cat. We should
see the results either way, good OR bad.
I would love to test my car as I have pretty much stage 1 mods with 2.5"
downpipe and catback system. I have a testpipe and a Dynomax highflow
cat too. I still have my stock cat but the flanges will not bolt up to
my exhaust. I don't know anyone at a test station either, and I'm not
gonna pay for 3 tests. I also have an AWD.
Anyone up for it!
Later,
Shawn Jewett
91 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 05:30:53 -0600
Subject: Cats and air tubes
Message-ID: <#24>
The 2G's definately don't have air tubes into the catalyic
converter. I don't think many cars do anymore. The interesting
thing about these 'smog pumps' is this: Say I'm flowing 1000L/min
thru the exhaust and cat. Now, if inject 100L/min of air into the
cat with an air tube...Why, I've just decrease the measured
emissions by 10%! See, the detectors read out in ppm, parts per
million, of NOx, CO, or whatever. By adding more millions without
adding parts, the count goes down. Just how much do these things
flow, I don't know.
Mac Crossett
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 05:57:25 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 2g, t, fwd-vibration, b.o.v. dumptube mod
Message-ID: <#25>
Hey all, I just recently purchased my talon and I love this
car but it's got this pulsation/vibration that really annoys
the hell out of me. I can't tell if it's in the front or
rear cause it seems like the whole car is shaking. It comes
in at exactly 50mph and fades out at exactly 60mph. It gets
worse when you hit the brakes but I don't think it's the
rotors because I don't get any pedal pulse and like I said
it's only beetween 50 and 60. It's also worse when it's
cold. I've taken it to the dealer 5 times for this and they
balanced and rotated the tires but they can't find anything
else wrong. I jacked the car up and spun each wheel and they
don't look bent. Any suggestions on this would be greatly
appreciated.
Also I did the reversible b.o.v. dump tube mod yesterday and
now I can't hear the boost venting beetween shifts. Is this
normal or did I screw something up? Thanks alot everyone.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:48:18 -0500
Subject: '96 TSI AWD for sale in VA.
Message-ID: <#27>
With the demise of the Eagle line, decked out 2nd gens at dealerships are
going cheap. And the only people in the market for Eagles are us list folks
who know the value of the cars. So wheelin' and dealin' is pretty easy too.
For anyone in the east. This car is located in Northern Virginia. I haven't
seen it and I'm not sure what dealership HBL is.
FRom the Thursday Washington Post:
Eagle '96 Talon. All Wheel Drive, Turbo, only 13K miles w/leather, CD,
alloys, 4X4. Top of the line. Only $15,775
HBL Tysons (703) 442-8200
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 07:55:34 -0600
From: "Morley, Tim C." <[email protected]>
Subject: 2G T AWD top speed
Message-ID: <#28>
>At 140 mph I was beginning to feel a bit nervous so I let
>up...Anyway, has anyone had a bone stock (well mine
>is stock except for pre95 BOV) faster than 140?
Hey all...I just wanted to throw in my experiences, with my 1997 GSX.
With the basic mods(I.e. filter, bov, cat back...etc)...I ran my car out
to 151mph, before letting up(an 18 wheeler 2-3 miles ahead comes up
awful quick), needless to say this was on a straight 3 lane (non-rush
hour) interstate. I am with a Fire and Rescue squad, I do not take
chances with other peoples lives, I have had to pull to many stupid
people out of cars wrapped around trees...telephone poles, a
river...you get the point...just because they underestimated a 90
degree turn and thought they could take it at 80mph.
My advice to everyone, have fun...just be careful...if that cheap a$$
Camaro or 5.slow want to kill themselves trying to beat a superior
DSM...let them...keeps me busy...hehehe...just kidding. Happy
Motoring!
Tim Morley
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:27:36 -0500
Subject: Manhole?! and Most Frequent Poster
Message-ID: <#29>
>I've had a hit-and-run in a parking lot, plus that manhole-cover>through-the-windshield vandalism while coming back from the ShootOut.
Whoah...what! Todd, I have been on the list since last
April and this is the first I heard of this mishap! What
kind of problems (and strength...those things aren't light!)
did that guy have! I tried searching for it in the archives,
but I only found posts referring to the original, not your
original post.
[Couldn't find it. Guess I never did a general post about it.
Closest is http://www.dsm.org/archives/96/06/960619.txt/6.html
Basically, some guy got drunk and smashed every piece of glass
on the first floor of the Super 8, then took a manhole cover
and tried to throw it through my front windshield. It didn't
go through because front glass always has a mylar sandwich.
It bounced off and dented the hell out of my hood. Lucky for
me, I found a glass place in Rapid City, SD, that just happened
to have the glass in stock. A glass place in Custer did the
install work (got bent over on it, but insurance covered it).
Only cost me about 6 hours of time on the trip, too - rented
a K-car while the Talon was in the shop, and was able to check
out some local caves. -talon mgr]
It seems that the posts that you put at the beginning of the
digests don't get archived?
[No, they don't. Should I include them? Lots of times, they
are full of stupid admin type stuff. -talon mgr]
Anyway, with all this talk about awards, I would like to
suggest a most frequent digest poster award :)
I belong to the Ytsejam mailing list (For the band
Dream Theater. The fans of this progressive metal band
are almost as rabid as DSM fans are!). This list has a page
( http://www.prognosis.com/itchy/ytse_mfp.htm ) that shows
the most frequent posters on the list every month.
Every month is a bit much, but I think that a yearly
award given to the most frequent poster on the digest for
the previous year would be quite cool! Of course, I am
not sure whether the prize would be considered good
or bad! ;-)
Josh
'97 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: 22 Jan 1998 09:58 EST
From: "Jonathan Davies" <[email protected]>
Subject: FS:'92 Tsi AWD, Raleigh, NC
Message-ID: <#30>
FS: 1992 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD
Check out a picture at www.onlineauto.com
Color: Black
Meticulously maintained. Clean. Stock.
Oil changed on average every 3K miles.
All maintenance records. 72K miles (average for 92).
Non smoking owner is "Turbo considerate"
New Tires @ 58K
New Clutch @ 58K. Dealer synchro check.
New Timing Belt and balancer belt @ 66K
New power steering belt, A/C belt, water pump belt, alternator belt @ 58K.
New Interstate Battery Aug '95
New spark plug cables and Bosch Platinum plugs.
K&N Performance Air filter
Chrysler/Mitsubishi/Eagle factory service manuals.
Options:
Tinted moon roof
Antilock brakes
Power door locks
Power windows/mirrors
Air conditioning
Cruise control
Manual transmission smooth shifting.
Rainbow cloth seats
6 speaker stereo
Alloy wheels
All Wheel Drive
Extra Z rated tire
Edmund's Online recommended market value $9780. Asking $8500.
Raleigh, NC.
Jonathan Davies (919) 848-6338 (h)
(919) 991-8358 (w)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 10:08:10 -0500
From: Andre Dault <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: My fellow Canadians...
Message-ID: <#31>
>When I heard about the demise of the Talon, I was terribly distraught.
>After some research, I've learned that Mitsu is coming in '99
I knew of this a little while back... But threr's something here that seems
to be more than a coinsidence (I think that's how you spell it). Is it not
weird that more or less the year Mitsu comes into Canada Chrysler decides to
close it's eagle devision (witch is Mitsu with a Chrysler name)... I still
find this quite convenient...
Andre
PS: from what I know there should be a Mitsu dealer in Toronto in time to sell
the '99 models (but I could be wrong)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 09:22:00 -0600
From: "Gawlowski, David" <[email protected]>
Subject: Burnt TSI and fire extinguishers
Message-ID: <#32>
>Saw a mention in the last digest of someone's TSI burning up in a race
>with a 944T and it reminded me of a current battle I'm involved in. Any
>help anyone can give is greatly appreciated.
Sorry has heck to hear about your loss Rob, and as fo

by bbfm.di.com for talon-digest-approved on Thu

Transcription

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