Complete Tunin gGuide: Nitro TC3

Transcription

COMPLETE TUNING
GUIDE: NTC3
Contents
Click on the button above to thoroughly
familiarize yourself with the Guide.
Good luck with your racing!
WARNING!
#2382 e-Book
More than 50 pages, with over 70 black and white
photos and illustrations, discuss 40 tuning options to set
up your NTC3 to WIN!
UNAUTHORIZED REPRODUCTION
IS FORBIDDEN
Under penalty of law you are forbidden to
make copies of this software or distribute it.
Violators will be prosecuted to the fullest
extent of the law.
©2003-2004 Associated Electrics, Inc.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Version 2, October 2004
Associated Electrics, Inc.
3585 Cadillac Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
(714) 850-9342
http://www.TeamAssociated.com/
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Complete Tuning Guide: NTC3
Contents
©2004 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Getting Started
To get the most out of this Guide:
Click on the underlined words to go to the Guide pages.
Click on the red-circled Contents link at the top right of most pages to return to this page, or use your browser’s Back
button.
Click on the appropriate zoom command in the “View” menu bar at top to zoom in and out.
The wide left margin allows you to print out the pages and have them bound at your local printing shop. The page
numbers are at the bottom.
Contents
Information in red text on this page is standard setting for the NTC3. Features are alphabetically listed within categories.
3
4
5
GENERAL SUSPENSION
Anti-roll bars/Blades none
Droop Front: #4. Rear: #3.
Ride Height 5.5mm
FRONT SUSPENSION
Ackerman #3857 ball ends
Bump Steer Spacers none
Camber, front 2°
Camber link adj, front
Tower: lower/inner.
10 Caster 9°
11 Toe, front 0°-1° toe-out
6
7
8
9
REAR SUSPENSION
12 Camber link adj, rear Tower:
inside lower hole.
13 Camber, rear 2° ver 1 ver 2
14 Toe-in, rear 2° (outside hole on
carrier) ver 1 ver 2
TIRES & WHEELS
15 Rollout
16 Tire Additive none
17 Tire Inserts incl. with tires
18 Tires Pro-Line #3955
19 Track Width use gauge
ver 1 ver 2
20 Wheels Pro-Line
SHOCKS
Shock Body threaded
Shock Mounting, front Tower:
middle hole. Arm: outer hole.
23 Shock Mounting, rear Tower:
middle hole. Arm: outer hole.
24 Shock Oil Front & Rear: 40wt.
25 Shock Pistons Front: #3.
Rear: #2
26 Shock Shaft #8844
27 Shock Springs Front: Copper.
Rear: Gold.
21
22
ELECTRICAL
28 Radio
29 Steering Servo
OTHER
Body varies
Clutch adjustment varies
Diff setting, front -1/4
Diff setting, rear -1/2.
Front One Way none
Pinion/Spur Gears
22 & 26, 50 & 54
36 Solid Axle none
37 Two-speed shift adj,
3 1/2 turns clockwise
38 Weights none
39 Wing varies
2
30
31
32
33
34
35
ENGINE/CARB/PIPE
Carb type varies
Carb restrictor varies
Engine brand/size varies
Engine temperature 220°
Fuel brand varies
Glow plug #MC59
Muffler/Tuned Pipe varies
Starter varies
40
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
47
47
Car Comments
Race Comments
Track Conditions
2
1
48
49
50
53
54
Contents
Cover
Getting the Best Setup
Maintenance
Questions & Answers
Resources
Setting the Tweak
Setup Sheet, blank,
ver 1 ver 2
Toe-in Gauge
General Suspension
Anti-roll Bar (sway bar)
Contents
Anti-roll bars (figs. 1, 2) are used to stabilize a car from
excessive chassis roll (which occurs when your car leans
through the turns by centrifugal force). A car not using an
anti-roll bar on a high traction surface will tend to have a lot
of chassis roll, which results in being less responsive. A car
using anti-roll bars on a high traction surface will tend to
have less chassis roll, making the car more responsive to
cornering, at the same time making the car more stable.
Anti-roll bars can help plant your front or rear tires, giving
them more traction. Consider using an anti-roll bar if you are
having trouble oversteering or understeering.
Anti-roll bars come in two types, wire and blade.
Fig. 1 Use an anti-roll bar on front or back to stabilize
your car from excessive chassis roll. This is the wire style
sway bar.
When do I use an anti-roll bar?
Anti-roll bars are generally used on smooth, high
traction conditions. If the track is very bumpy, then anti-roll
bars are not needed. The more bumpy a track gets, the more
the bars become a disadvantage. Anti-roll bars on bumpy
tracks don’t allow your suspension to work independently,
making your car difficult to drive.
• If you are driving on a high traction surface and your
car wants to oversteer
oversteer,, then use the optional #1715 blade
anti-roll kit on the front (fig. 2). This will decrease the front
chassis roll and decrease steering throughout the corner
(this has the feeling of increasing rear traction).
• If your car is understeering, then try the optional
#3960 anti-roll bar kit on the rear only (fig. 1). The rear
anti-roll bar will decrease rear chassis roll and decrease rear
traction (this has the feeling of increasing steering).
Fig. 2 This blade type sway bar is on the front
How do I get the anti-roll bars?
Anti-roll bars are optional items. Part #3960 is a wiretype anti-roll bar set, which can be used on either front or
rear. Get two if you think you’ll need anti-roll bars on both
front and rear. Full installation instructions are included.
Product info
#1715, Front Blade Anti-Roll Bar Kit
#3960, Front or Rear Anti-roll Bar Kit (wire type)
On setup sheet
You mark whether or not you used an anti-roll bar.
3
Contents
General Suspension
Droop
if higher traction
use less droop
By turning the droop screws (fig. 4) in the suspension arms, you
can control the angle the arms droop when at rest. Droop can help
speed up or slow down how fast the car changes direction when
cornering. We use a droop gauge for measuring droop, fig. 1. You can
limit the amount of shock travel by increasing or decreasing suspension
arm droop. One of its effects is to reduce chassis roll. The Factory Team
droop gauge coupled with the droop screws helps make precise
measurements. If you use the droop screws method, remove any shock
travel limiters you may have on your shock shafts.
Increasing droop (lower number on the droop gauge) will give more
shock travel. Decreasing droop (higher number on the droop gauge) will
limit shock travel.
droop gauge
if more bumps
use more droop
Fig. 1 The droop gauge measures droop.
How do I know which droop setting to use?
• Recommended starting droop settings: Front droop: 4. Rear: 3.
• When your car leans too much in the turns, decrease droop-this will limit the shock travel.
• Also, try decreasing droop in the front arms on high traction
ont end rises on acceleration. The
smooth tracks when your car’s fr
front
moree steering this way. In the rear, less droop is
decrease can give you mor
used only for high traction, smooth tracks.
• Increase droop for bumpy tracks.
• Droop affects shock travel. If the track has high traction, such as
carpet, then you may want to take droop out of your car by going higher
on the droop gauge.
• Too little droop will cause a loss of traction.
• There will be a proper balance between steering and rear traction
for the various track’s conditions. Use the above guidelines to find your
ideal setup.
Fig. 2 The front arm rests on step 4.
How do I change the droop?
7 8
4 5 6
0 1 2 3
1. Remove the tires and front shocks.
2. Place the droop gauge on a flat surface.
3. Place the bottom of the chassis on top of the gauge, fig. 2. Make
sure the screws are not resting on the gauge and that the chassis and
gauge remain flat.
4. Slide the gauge so the shock mounting portion of the front arm
rests on step 4. With your 3/32” Allen wrench, adjust the set screw so
the outer part of the arm just touches the step. Adjust both front arms.
5. Remove the rear shocks and slide the gauge to the rear arms and
repeat the adjustment. The shock mount portion of the rear arms will rest
on step 3, fig. 3.
On setup sheet
You mark what droop settings you used on the front and rear.
Fig. 3 The rear arm rests on step 3.
TIP
1/8 turn of droop set screw equals 1/2 step in
change of the droop gauge. 1/4 turn equals 1 step
change.
TIP
By using a 3/32” Allen driver it is easier to adjust the
droop set screws.
TIP
For foam tires: Front setting = 4, rear = 4.
For rubber tires: Front setting =4, rear = 3.
Product info
#3987, Droop gauge
Fig. 4 Droop screw hole
4
Contents ©2004 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
General Suspension
Ride Height
Ride height describes the distance of the vehicle from the
bottom of the chassis to the surface the car is resting on (fig.
1). Turning your shock collars up or down changes the ride
height. This adjustment must be made with the kit fully
equipped (including all electrical equipment) and the body
off. We suggest starting with about 5.5mm clearance between the chassis and ground. You set the initial ride height
with the track width/ride height tool, fig. 3.
Fig. 1 Ride height is the
distance from the chassis
bottom to the ground.
When should I change the ride height?
This adjustment helps to speed up or slow down how
fast the car changes direction when cornering. Do not use a
ride height lower than 3mm. You should always check the
ride height after making all your other adjustments, just
before you are ready to race. You can measure the ride
height with the ride height gauge, fig. 5.
• For higher traction use a lower ride height (lower
number on the ride height gauge).
• For bumpier tracks add more ride height (higher
number on the ride height gauge).
Fig. 2 Use the track width/ride
height tool to set ride height.
Fig. 3
How do I change the ride height?
Ride height is adjusted by first adjusting droop settings.
Then you set the ride height by using the track width tool, fig.
3. It sets your ride height at 5.5mm high.
1. Have the car ready to run with no body.
2. Set the car on a flat surface.
3. Try to slide the track width tool under one corner of the
rear of the chassis, fig. 2.
4. Turn the shock collar until the tool just touches the
chassis. Check both corners of the rear.
5. Slide the tool under the front of the car and adjust the
shock collars. Check both corners of the front.
6. To set a different ride height, slide the ride height
gauge under the car at the sides, fig. 5, front and back, and
move your shock collars, fig. 4, until the tool just touches
the chassis.
Fig. 4
Change the preload clips (fig. 2) or turn the collar of the
threaded shocks (fig. 4) to adjust ride height.
Fig. 5 Use the ride height gauge to measure ride height.
Product info
#1450, Factory Team Blue Aluminum Ride Height Gauge
#1719, NTC3 Camber/Track Width Tool
#8846, Shock Preload Clips, 5 sizes, for non threaded shock bodies
#3963, Factory Team Anodized TC3 Threaded Shock Body & Collar
with cap O-rings. Pr.
#8450, VCS Macro Shock Body, aluminum, non threaded
#8450B, VCS Macro Shock Body, blue aluminum, non threaded
#8458, VCS Macro Shock Body, non threaded composite
On setup sheet
You note your ride height dimension in inches or mm.
5
Contents
Front Suspension
Ackerman
Ackerman gives more traction to the tires by steering
them correctly through the turns. Specifically, it causes the
inside front wheel to turn tighter than the outside front wheel
(fig. 1). Standard Ackerman is preferred by most Team
drivers.
How do I know when to adjust Ackerman?
• The standard setting (fig. 2) gives a comfortable
driving feeling.
• Use optional Ackerman (fig. 3) if you want more
aggressive steering feeling. The car may feel harder to
drive.
How do I change Ackerman?
By changing the two #3857 special ball ends with two
longer neck #6270 ball ends to the swing rack, a more
aggressive steering feeling can be achieved. This decreases
Ackerman.
Fig. 1 Ackerman causes the inside front wheel to turn
tighter than the outside front wheel. (TC3 shown.)
On setup sheet
You indicate which Ackerman setting you used. You have
two choices, standard or optional.
#3857 black short ball ends (in kit)
#6270 silver long ball ends (optional)
Standard Ackerman setup
Optional Ackerman setup
Fig. 2 Your steering rack setting determines Ackerman.
Fig. 3
Product info
#2228, NTC3 Swing Rack
#2229, NTC3 Swing Rack Hardware ( )
#3857, Short Ball Ends (black)
#6270, Long Ball Ends (silver)
6
Contents
Front Suspension
Bump Steer
Bump Steer takes its name from the fact that when the
car goes over bumps, it changes the steer
steering. Bump steer is
the undesirable effect of extra toe-in in one front tire or the
other as your car goes over bumps, making your steering
unpredictable. Your car then bounces back and forth instead
of going straight through the bumps.
When should I change the bump steer?
• Change the bump steer when you want to keep a
straight line through bumpy asphalt track sections, or have
better control of your steering through bumps.
• You should check the bump steer any time you change
the caster in your car.
Fig. 1 Bump steer is changed by adding a spacer
between the ball stud and steering arm.
How do I change the bump steer?
1. Pop off the steering turnbuckle.
2. Remove the ball end and add a spacer (fig. 1) to the
ball end.
3. Then replace the ball end with the spacer in place and
pop on the turnbuckle.
On setup sheet
You mark the thickness of washer used, such as .032” or
.064”.
Product info
#4187, Shock Travel Limiters (and bump steer
spacers), 12 ea. 1/32” shims
#6466, Shock Travel Limiters (and bump steer
spacers), 4 ea. of 1/8” (.125), 1/16” (.062), 1/32”
7
Contents
Front Suspension
Camber, front
camber
angle
Camber describes the angle of the wheels as their tops
lean to or away from the chassis (fig. 1). Negative camber
means the tire leans inward at the top. Camber is measured
in degrees.
How do I know which setting to use?
• Use 2° to 3° of negative camber on high traction
tracks.
• Use 1° to 2° on low traction tracks.
Fig. 1 Camber is seen from the back or front of the car.
How do I change the camber?
1. Set your car on a flat surface.
2. Use the camber/rear toe-in gauge for setting camber,
fig. 2. When using the gauge, make sure that the number
you want to set it at is down at the bottom of the tire, fig. 3.
Find the 2° and push it against the tire at the bottom.
3. Use your 5/64” Allen wrench to adjust the upper pivot
ball, fig. 4, until the tire lines up with the gauge.
Fig. 2 Camber/rear
toe-in gauge.
On setup sheet
You note how much camber you used.
Fig. 3 Set the degrees of camber you want next to the
bottom of the tire.
Fig. 4 Insert your Allen wrench where shown to adjust
camber. (Tire removed for clarity.)
8
Product info
#1719, Camber/Track Width Tool
Contents
Front Suspension
Camber Link Adjustment, front
You have two places to mount your upper front suspension arms (fig. 1). Those holes are the camber link positions. Changing the mounting position of the camber links
can affect traction and stability.
A
B
How do I know which link is best?
We suggest using the standard setting for almost all
conditions.
• The optional position will give your car more overall
traction in slippery conditions.
Fig. 1
A = optional mounting position.
B = standard mounting position.
#2239 caster clip
How do I change the link position?
See fig. 2 for the parts mentioned in these steps.
1. Remove the bumper.
2. Remove the two caster clips.
3. Remove the #9146 screw and front hinge pin.
4. Move the suspension arm to the new location.
5. Add the front hinge pin and screw.
6. Add the two caster clips and bumper.
#2235 front
hinge pin
#9146 screw
On setup sheet
You mark here which shock tower hole you used, inner
or outer hole.
Fig. 2 Remove these parts to change camber link
position.
9
Contents
Front Suspension
Caster, front
Caster describes the angle of the steering block from
vertical when it is leaned toward the rear of the vehicle, fig.
1. Positive caster means the steering block leans rearward
at the top. It influences the amount of steering entering and
exiting corners.
• Standard kit setup is 9° of caster. The car can be
adjusted in 3° increments (6°, 9°, and 12°).
• Use 12° caster if you need increased turn-in steering
but less steering exiting corners. It will also be more stable
in bumpy track conditions.
• Use 6° caster if you need less turn-in steering, but
more steering exiting corners. It will be less stable in
bumpy track conditions.
Fig. 1 Positive caster leans the steerign block rearward at
the top.
How do I change the caster?
By changing the caster clips, fig. 2.
Both clips to the front equals 6° caster.
One clip on either side equals 9° caster.
Both clips to the rear equals 12° caster.
On setup sheet
You note how much caster you used, 6°, 9°, or 12°.
Fig. 2 Move these clips to change caster.
Product info
#2239, Caster Clips
10
Contents
Front Suspension
Toe-in & Toe-out, front
Front toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels
when viewed from above (fig. 1), the front of the wheel
turning inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out), rather than
pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees.
toe angle
How do choose front toe-in or toe-out?
• We suggest using 0° to 1° toe-out on the NTC3.
• Toe-in will make your car easier to drive by improving
stability during acceleration at low speed.
ease steering when entering
• Toe-out will incr
increase
corners, but will be slightly more difficult to drive at low
speed.
• On slippery tracks use a small amount of toe-in. Add
toe-in to the front tires if you need help stabilizing your
vehicle during acceleration. Doing this will also decrease
ease
the amount of steering when entering a corner, and incr
increase
it coming out of a turn during acceleration.
• Add toe-out when you need more steering entering a
cor
ner
corner
ner.. But doing this will cause instability when accelerating on bumpy tracks or down a slippery straightaway.
Fig. 1 Toe angle.
How do I change the toe-in or toe-out?
By turning the steering turnbuckle you adjust this setting
(fig. 2). To measure the setting in degrees, print out the
NTC3 Toe-In Gauge. (Directions are on the page.) You may
also choose to purchase a toe-in gauge made by aftermarket companies.
Fig. 2 Use this tool to adjust toe on the steering turnbuckle.
On setup sheet
You write in what toe setting you are using in degrees.
Product info
#1402, Factory Team Blue Titanium Turnbuckles,
1.375”
#6956, Molded Tool Set
11
Rear Suspension, ver. 1
Contents
Camber Link Adjustment, rear
You have two places to mount your upper rear suspension arms (fig. 1). Those holes are the camber link positions. Changing the mounting position of the camber links
can affect traction and stability.
We suggest using the standard setting for almost all
conditions.
• The optional position will give your car more overall
traction in slippery conditions.
A
B
Fig. 1
A = optional mounting position.
B = standard mounting position.
#2235 rear
hinge pin
1. Remove the #9146 screw and front hinge pin.
2. Move the suspension arm to the new location.
3. Add the front hinge pin and screw.
On setup sheet
You mark here which shock tower hole you used, inner
or outer hole.
#9146 screw
Fig. 2 Remove these parts to change camber link
position.
12, ver. 1
Contents
Camber Link Adjustment, rear
You have three places to mount your turnbuckle link on
the tower (fig. 1). Those holes are the camber link positions.
Changing the mounting position of the camber links can
affect traction and stability.
• Using a longer mounting position will increase traction,
but decrease stability.
• Using a shorter mounting position will decrease traction,
ease stability
but incr
increase
stability..
• Adding a washer or two between hub carrier and eyelet
easing traction. It slows the
ball raises the roll center, incr
increasing
side to side roll or motion of the chassis. Use this optional
position for high traction tracks.
1. Remove nut #2309 and screw #2308.
2. Move turnbuckle to new position on tower and reinstall
nut #2309 and screw #2308.
3. At hub carrier, remove screw #2308.
4. Add washer or washers under eyelet ball.
5. Turn screw #2308 counterclockwise until it drops in the
original threads, then tighten.
Fig. 1 Top hole is the standard position.
Fig. 2 Move these parts to change camber link position.
On setup sheet
You mark which shock tower hole you used. You mark
which washers you added, if any, and their sizes.
12, ver. 2
Camber, rear
Contents
means that the tire leans inward at the top. Camber is
measured in degrees.
camber angle
tracks.
2. Use the camber/rear toe-in gauge (fig. 2) for setting
camber. When using the gauge, make sure that the number
you want to set it at is down at the bottom of the tire, fig. 2.
Find the 2° and push it against the tire at the bottom.
3. Use your 5/64” Allen wrench to adjust the upper pivot
ball until the tire lines up with the gauge, fig. 3.
On setup sheet
bottom of the tire.
Fig. 3 Insert your Allen wrench where shown to adjust
camber.
Product info
13, ver. 1
Camber, rear
camber angle
means that the tire leans inward at the top. Camber is
measured in degrees.
tracks.
2. Use the camber/rear toe-in gauge (fig. 2) for measuring camber. When using the gauge, make sure that the
number of degrees you want at is at the bottom of the tire,
fig. 2. Find the 2° and push it against the tire at the bottom.
3. Use your turnbuckle tool to adjust the turnbuckle until
the tire lines up with the gauge, fig. 3.
On setup sheet
bottom of the tire.
Fig. 3 Adjust this turnbuckle to change camber.
Product info
13, ver. 2
Toe-in, rear
Contents
toe angle
2° recommended
Rear toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels
pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees. You can
change the angle of toe to influence rear traction and steering.
When do I choose rear toe-in or toe-out?
• 2° toe-in on each side works best on most conditions.
• Decreasing rear toe, you will decrease rear traction
and add steering.
• We do not recommend running more than 3° of rear
toe-in.
Fig. 1 Toe-in angle.
How do I adjust the rear toe?
To adjust toe-in, turn the rear toe-in turnbuckle with the
turnbuckle wrench or needlenose pliers, fig. 2. To measure
accurately, use the camber/rear toe-in gauge, fig. 3, as
follows.
1. Stand the NTC3 on its rear end on a flat surface.
2. The numbers around three corners of the gauge stand
for degrees. Rest the camber/rear toe-in gauge against the
tire, number of degrees desired toward the bottom of the tire
as shown in fig. 4.
3. Adjust the turnbuckle shown in fig. 2 until the tire rests
evenly against the tool.
Fig. 2 Adjust rear toe by turning this turnbuckle with your
turnbuckle wrench or needlenose pliers.
Fig. 3 Camber/rear toein gauge.
On setup sheet
You write in which toe setting you are using.
Fig. 4 Set your gauge against the tire as shown
Product info
#1719, Camber/Rear Toe-In Gauge
14, ver. 1
Toe-in, rear
Contents
toe angle
2° recommended
Rear toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels
pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees. You can
change the angle of toe to influence rear traction and steering.
When do I choose rear toe-in or toe-out?
• 2° toe-in on each side works best in most conditions.
• Decreasing rear toe, you will decrease rear traction
and add steering.
• We do not recommend running more than 3° of rear
toe-in.
Fig. 1 Toe-in angle.
How do I adjust the rear toe?
To adjust toe-in, turn the forward pivot ball in the rear
wheel with your Allen wrench, fig. 2. To measure accurately,
use the camber/rear toe-in gauge, fig. 3.
1. Stand the NTC3 on its rear end on a flat surface.
2. The numbers around three corners of the gauge stand for
degrees. Rest the camber/rear toe-in gauge against the tire,
number of degrees desired toward the bottom of the tire as
shown in fig. 4.
3. Adjust the forward pivot ball (fig. 2) until the tire rests
evenly against the tool.
Fig. 2 Adjust rear toe by turning the frontward inset
screw.
Fig. 3 Camber/rear toein gauge.
On setup sheet
You write in which toe setting you are using.
Fig. 4 Set your gauge against the tire as shown
Product info
14, ver. 2
Contents
Tires & Wheels
Rollout
Your 2-speed clutch gearing ratio will change as your
foam tire diameter changes with tire wear, tire swap, and
foam tire changes. Rollout is a more precise way to set a
vehicle’s gearing because it also takes into account the tire
diameter. Rollout is defined as the distance a vehicle moves
forward per revolution of the engine.
Your rollout depends on your tire’s circumference. You
can calculate the circumference by doing the math: Tir
iree Dia.
X 3.14 = Circumference. Or you can measure it by adding
a tick mark to the bottom tire edge (fig. 1) and rolling it
along a scale (fig. 2) until the tick mark again comes
around to the bottom.
Fig. 1 Measure your tire’s circumference for rollout.
When do I consider rollout?
You may wish to match the fastest racer’s gearing. But
you can’t simply use the same 2-speed clutch combo as the
fastest racer because the tire diameter may be different.
That’s when you consider rollout, in which the tire circumference and transmission ratio are considered in addition to the
2-speed clutch ratio. To figure rollout, measure the circumference of the rear tire, how many teeth are on your 2-speed
clutch gears, and determine your transmission ratio (on the
NTC3 the ratio is 2.5). Then plug them into this equation:
Tir
cumfer
ence times Transmission Ratio of 2.5
iree Cir
Circumfer
cumference
times (Gear1 times Gear2) = Final Drive Ratio.
Fig. 2 Measure your tire’s circumference for rollout.
Measure the final drive ratio for the other racer’s car and
your own. Now change your 2-speed clutch gear numbers
until the final drive ratio for your car matches the other one.
On setup sheet
You usually don’t add rollout to the setup sheet, but you
can add it to the Car Comments section.
15
Contents
Tires & Wheels
Tire Additive
Tire conditioner, or traction sauce, is applied to the tires
to enhance the performance of the tires. It softens the rubber
and creates more grip.
How do I apply tire additive?
It is best to clean the tire surface before you apply the
conditioner. Apply motor spray or alcohol to a rag and wipe
the rubber. Or use one of the name brand tire cleaners that
are available at your hobby store or track. Use a brush to
remove any residue or debris that may be on the tires.
Then apply a complete coat of tire conditioner to each of
the tires at least a half-hour before you run the car. Wipe off
any excess that might still be on the tires before you race.
This will help soften the tires and provide you with needed
traction.
When do I use tire additive?
The best time to use tire conditioner is when you find that
you are on a prepared surface. Do not use it when you are
running on a dirty or dusty surface (like a parking lot or the
street in front of your house) because the tires will get coated
with a layer of dust and the car will slide around even more.
If you are going racing, ask the racers there what type of
tire conditioner they are using. It will save you a considerable amount of money in trial and error for the best brand.
On setup sheet
You mark that you used tire additive.
TIP
Try applying tire conditioner to all four tires when
encountering slick surfaces. Use the conditioner when
on dry, clean tracks when you need more traction,
especially through the corners.
16
Contents
Tires & Wheels
Tire Inserts
Rubber tires need support to retain their shape. Tire
inserts (fig. 1) give this support.
How do I know which insert to use?
The foam insert’s density is important. Too firm an insert
will cause your car to bounce, resulting in loss of traction.
Too light a foam will cause the car to wander and to be
unstable.
• Typically a harder insert has less rolling resistance,
which increases cornering. However if too hard, it can
cause the car to be loose.
• Softer inserts provide maximum traction, but increases drag.
Fig. 1
On setup sheet
Write in the foam type that you used, soft, medium, or
firm.
17
Contents
Tires & Wheels
Tires
Tire choice is one of the most crucial choices a racer has
to make. The proper tire choice will either hook up all your
car’s setups or ruin it. The NTC3 will accept all popular
touring car tires, including foam tires (fig. 1).
foam
rubber
How do I know which tire to use?
• Normally, racers use the same tires all around. But
circumstances may dictate otherwise.
• Try softer tires all around for mor
moree traction.
more
steering
or
front
traction,
• For
try softer tires in
front than those in rear.
• Choose the tire that the most successful racers are
using at that track.
• Some races require a “spec” tire. This is when the
same tire is used by every car. In these cases, tire choice
has been made for you!
• Beyond these basics, you may want to learn more
about temperature rated tires, belted tires, treaded, slick, and
foam tire compounds for more tuning options.
Fig. 1
On setup sheet
You write in which brand and type of tire you used.
Fig. 2 Glue your rubber tires to the rims to prevent the
tires from slipping. Use protective gloves.
18
Tires & Wheels, ver. 1
Track Width
Contents
t rack width
You can adjust the track width of the NTC3. That is, you
can widen the distance between the outside front wheels.
How do I know which width to use?
• Standard setting is attained by using the track width
gauge, fig. 2.
• Increase the track width for mor
moree stability
stability..
How do I change the track width?
1. Insert the 5/64” Allen wrench into the steering block’s
and hub carrier’s top and bottom pivot balls and turn clockwise to narrow the track width, counter-clockwise to widen it.
2. Insert the track width gauge where shown (fig. 3) and
tighten the pivot balls against it to attain the standard track
width setting. (Set bottom ball for track width and use the top
ball for camber adjustment.)
3. After adjusting track width, it will be necessary to reset
your camber and toe adjustments.
Track width can also be changed by using offset wheels.
Offset wheels vary the center point of the mounting hex in
relation to the wheel center. You can purchase wheels that
add or decrease offset from 1mm to 3mm.
Fig. 1 Track width changes the distance between the
front wheels.
Fig. 2 Track width gauge.
On setup sheet
In the Car Comments section you can indicate that wider
or narrower track width was used.
Fig. 3 Changing track width.
Product info
19, ver. 1
Tires & Wheels, ver. 2
t rack width
Track Width
You can adjust the track width of the NTC3. That is, you
can widen the distance between the outside front wheels.
How do I know which width to use?
• Standard setting is attained by using the track width
gauge, fig. 2.
• Increase the track width for mor
moree stability
stability..
How do I change the track width?
Use the track width gauge (fig. 2) to set the track width
at standard setting.
1. Insert the 5/64" Allen wrench into both pivot balls through
the rear wheel where shown and turn clockwise to narrow
the track width, counter-clockwise to widen it.
2. Insert the track width gauge where shown and tighten the
pivot balls against it to attain the standard track width
setting.
3. After adjusting track width, it will be necessary to reset
your camber and toe adjustments.
Track width can also be changed by using offset wheels.
Offset wheels vary the center point of the mounting hex in
relation to the wheel center. You can purchase wheels that
add or decrease offset from 1mm to 3mm.
Fig. 1 Track width changes the distance between the
front wheels.
Fig. 2 Track width gauge.
On setup sheet
In the Car Comments section you can indicate that wider
or narrower track width was used.
Fig. 3 Changing track width.
Product info
19, ver. 2
Contents
Tires & Wheels
Wheels
Associated provides 1-piece 24mm wheels (fig. 1). The
standard hex wheels are made for 4mm axles. No offset
comes with the NTC3 wheels.
How do I know which wheel type to use?
• Standard 1-piece wheels are used because of their
light weight, but their drawback is that they must be glued
to the tires. They allow quick change from one set of prepared wheel/tire combo to another. Preferred wheel by
racers.
• You can also use 26mm wheels, which will stretch the
tire out, giving a larger tire patch and lower sidewall. This
decreases tire deflection from side to side. The more tire
touching the asphalt (tire patch) the more traction.
Fig. 1 Your wheel.
On setup sheet
You fill in what wheels you used, standard or otherwise.
Fig. 2 Glue your tires to the wheels to
prevent the tires from slipping . . .
Fig. 3 . . . then double-wrap a wide
width rubber band to hold the rubber to
the rim firmly.
TIP
Some drivers balance their wheels with an airplane
prop balancer and lead tape such as used on golf
clubs.
Product info
#1597, Tire Adhesive (glues tires to rims)
#3989, Pro-Line Wheels, pr.
For more wheels, contact your local hobby shop
20
Contents
Shocks
Shock Body
The shock body (fig. 1) houses the oil and piston
components. They come in two types, threaded and non
threaded.
With threaded bodies, you can fine tune your ride height
by simply turning the adjustment collar.
With non threaded, preload clips that come in various
thicknesses are used to adjust ride height.
Fig. 1 Left to right:
Composite, blue aluminum and threaded aluminum
shock body.
How do I know which shock body to use?
• Use the composite shock body if you have budget
restraints. They are also lighter than aluminum.
• Use the aluminum shock body for better wear. Of the
aluminum bodies, you have a choice of threaded (fig. 2) or
unthreaded.
• Use the threaded shock bodies if you need finer ride
height adjustments.
On setup sheet
You indicate the body used. You have two choices,
threaded and non threaded.
Fig. 2 Choose the threaded shock body style if you want
finer ride height adjustments.
TIP
Use a permanent marker to mark your shocks with an F
and R to designate front and rear.
21
Product info
#3963, Factory Team Anodized Threaded Shock Body
& Collar with cap O-rings, pr.
#8450, VCS Macro Shock Body, aluminum, ea.
#8450B, VCS Macro Shock Body, blue aluminum, ea.
#8458, VCS Macro Shock Body, molded composite,
ea.
1598, Factory Team Shock Cap, blue anodized
aluminum, 4
#6428, Shock Cap, molded, 1
Contents
Shocks
Shock Mounting, front
You have three mounting positions for your shocks on
the tower (figs. 1-3). Shock tower mounting will affect
steering. The lower the angle of the shock (toward the inside
hole on the tower and outside hole on the arm), the more it
directs pressure toward the arms, and thus the more aggressively it will affect your steering. The more vertical the shock
(fig. 1), the more the dampening.
Make sure you re-check the ride height after shock
mounting changes.
Fig. 1 Outside hole of tower reduces steering and
increases dampening.
When do I change the mounting position?
• Middle hole (fig. 3) on tower and outer hole on arm is
standard.
• Outside hole on tower reduces steering. It also increases the dampening.
• The inside or middle tower position (fig. 2) adds
steering. Dampening is also decreased. Great for tracks with
good traction.
• Mounting the shock on the suspension arm’s inner
ont suspension softer
hole makes the fr
front
softer..
How do I change the mounting position?
Fig. 2 Inside and middle holes of tower add steering,
decrease dampening, and decrease spring rate.
Remove from the tower the nylon locknut, shock, shock
bushing, plain nut, and screw and replace them in another
hole.
Remove the screw from the arm and replace in another
hole.
On setup sheet
You mark here which shock tower hole and arm holes
you mounted your shock. You have three choices for the
tower and two for the arm.
Fig. 3 Middle hole is standard.
22
Contents
Shocks
Shock Mounting, rear
There are several mounting possibilities for your rear
shocks.
Make sure you re-check the ride height after shock
mounting changes.
How do I know which position to use?
• Middle hole on tower and outer hole on arm is standard.
• Outside hole, fig. 1, decreases traction and increases
dampening.
• Inside hole and middle, fig. 2, increases traction and
decreases dampening.
• Moving the rear shock to the suspension arm’s inside
hole softens the rear.
Fig. 1 The outside hole is standard.
How do I change the mounting position?
Remove from the tower the nylon locknut, shock, shock
bushing, plain nut, and screw and replace them in another
hole.
Remove the screw from the arm and replace in another
hole.
On setup sheet
Mark here which holes you used to mount your shock on
the rear tower and arms.
Fig. 2 The inside and middle holes increase traction.
23
Contents
Shocks
Shock Oil
Oil weight determines the dampening of your car. It helps control
how quickly the spring rebounds. In other words, shock springs hold
your car off the ground (determines ride height); oil determines how
quickly the car regains that height after the bumps. Heavier weight oil
makes rebound more sluggish than lighter weight oil.
Associated sells high-quality silicone oil in 2 oz. bottles from 10 wt
to 80 wt. This silicone oil handles well over a wider range of weather
conditions. The larger the number, such as “80 wt,” the heavier the
weight, that is, the oil viscosity is thicker.
How do I know which oil weight to use?
• Standard setting is 40 wt oil (fig. 1) in front with #3 piston and
40wt in rear with #2 piston.
• If your car chatters too much then switch to a lighter oil, such as
30 wt and a #2 piston.
• Use lighter oil, such as 25 wt, for bumpier tracks. It increases
traction, but increases chassis roll.
Fig. 1 The correct oil weight can help you regain your
ride height in a way that’s best for your track conditions.
How do I change the oil?
1. Remove the shock from the car. Pull out the spring cup and
spring.
2. Unscrew the shock cap and pour the oil onto a paper towel.
Discard the paper towel properly.
3. Holding the shock upright, fill with oil to the top of the body.
4. Slowly move the shaft up and down several times to allow air
bubbles to escape to the top.
5. Refill with oil to the top of the body. Push shaft in until piston is at
mouth of shock body.
6. Fill the shock cap about halfway with oil and install onto the
body. Try to retain as much oil as possible during assembly. The shaft
will extend out as you tighten the cap down.
7. Move the shock shaft in and out a few times and then push it all
the way in. It should be easy to push the shaft in.
8. Then the shaft should push itself out to its full length slowly.
9. If the shock does not push out this far, there is not enough oil in
it. Add a drop of oil and try steps 7-8 again.
If the shock rebounds too fast, or you cannot push the shaft in, there
is too much oil. Loosen the cap about a full turn and pump out a small
amount of oil by pushing the shaft in. Retighten the cap and try steps 78 again. Too much oil in the shock will result in leakage.
10. Insert the spring, compress the spring, and slide on the spring
cup.
11. Install the shock and fasten with the locknut and screw.
Product info
#5420, Silicone Shock Oil, 10 weight, 2 oz.
On setup sheet
You mark here which weight of oil you used. If you used the oil
shown, you would mark “40” in the space.
24
Shocks
Shock Pistons
Pistons (fig. 1) determine shock dampening. The piston
has two holes through which the oil flows as the piston
travels up and down in the shock. The size of the holes help
control how quickly the spring rebounds. The holes in the
piston can be likened to doors in a store letting people in for
a sale. If the doors were opened only part way, then they let
people through more slowly than if the door were wide open.
So the smaller holes in the piston means less oil can get
through and thus means more sluggish shocks. Generally,
you change both the oil weight and pistons for better effect.
Shock dampening manages the resistance of the shock
as the piston moves up and down through the oil in the
shock body. Changing the piston hole size changes the
dampening characteristic of the shock. The smaller holes
provides the heaviest dampening. The larger holes provides
the least dampening, allowing the oil through more quickly.
Associated #6465 includes 4 each of #1, #2, and #3
pistons (fig. 2). The #1 piston has the largest holes and the
#3 piston has the smallest holes.
Changing pistons is like changing the oil viscosity. For
example, swapping #1 for #2 or #2 for #3 (going to a
smaller hole) changes the oil rate by 5wt. each. So 30wt.
would become 35 when you change to the next smallest
hole size.
How do I know which piston to use?
• Standard setting for front is #3. For rear, #2.
• If your car chatters too much, you may try a larger
piston size. As a general rule of thumb, with certain exceptions, the smoother the track surface, the smaller the hole
piston.
• Standard setting has the #3 piston in front and #2
piston in the rear.
Contents
larger hole
lightest
dampening
medium
smaller hole
heaviest
Fig. 1 Your shock pistons further fine-tune your shock
dampening characteristics. The smaller holes in the
piston means less oil can get through and thus means
more sluggish shocks.
Fig. 2 It will help to run a black marker over the pistons
so you can see the numbers better. Also, insert the
pistons so the number is facing the opening of the shock
body so you can read it quickly when removing the
shock cap.
How do I change pistons?
Product info
#6465, Shock Pistons, 4 each of #1, #2, and #3
You must remove your shocks from the car and take
them apart. Remove the shock eyelet and shock cap and
pull out the shaft. Remove the end E-clip from the shaft to
change pistons.
On setup sheet
You write here which shock piston you’ve added to your
shocks, #1, #2, or #3.
25
Contents
Shocks
Shock Shaft
Your shock shaft (fig. 1) communicates the shock’s
dampening effects to your suspension arm. Associated has
shafts in two compositions, standard shafts and
Unobtainium.
Fig. 1 Standard shock shaft (left), Unobtainium shock
shaft. The Unobtainium shaft has a burnt, blue color in
spots.
How do I know which shock shaft to use?
Use the Unobtainium shaft if you want smoother shock
action. Highly recommended for competition racing.
On setup sheet
You indicate if you used Associated’s standard shafts or
Unobtainium.
TIP
Experienced racers use Green Slime to lube the internal
shock parts instead of using oil. This gives superior
shock action.
Product info
#1105, Green Slime
#3964, TC3/NTC3 Unobtainium Shock Shafts, pr.
#8844, TC3/NTC3 Shock Shaft,.35 stroke, ea.
26
Contents
Shocks
Shock Springs
The purpose of the springs (fig. 1) is to keep the vehicle
level during acceleration, deceleration, and cornering.
Several spring tensions (fig. 2) are available to achieve this.
Fig. 1 Your shock springs help keep your car level
during acceleration.
How do I know which spring to use?
• Recommended setting for rubber tires: Front, Copper.
Rear, Gold.
• Recommended setting for foam tires: Front, Yellow.
Rear, Red.
• Stiffer springs help your suspension respond more
quickly and help decrease chassis roll, but because of
their stiffness they will not absorb bumps as well. Use stiffer
springs in high traction conditions.
• Softer springs are best for tracks with many small
bumps and for slippery conditions.
Green
Silver
Blue
Gold
Red
Copper
Purple
Yellow
White
How do I change the spring?
12.0 lb./in. softer
14.5
17.0.
19.5.
22.0
25.0
30.0.
35.0
40.0
stiffer
Fig. 2 Your shock springs are color-coded according to
their stiffness. The list above has the softest springs at top
and stiffest springs at bottom.
1. Remove the shock’s top locknut and bottom screw
and pull the shock from the car.
2. Compress the spring, pull out the spring cup, and
slide out the spring.
3. Slide on a new spring.
4. Compress the spring and slide on the spring cup.
5. Install the shock and attach with locknut and bottom
screw.
6. Recheck ride height.
On setup sheet
Write in which shock springs you used by color. Each
shock spring is color-coded (fig. 2) according to the stiffness of the spring.
Product info
#3941, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Green, 12.0 lb./in.
#3942, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Silver, 14.5
#3943, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Blue, 17.0.
#3944, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Gold, 19.5.
#3945, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Red, 22.0
#3946, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Copper, 25.0
#3952, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Purple, 30.0.
#3953, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Yellow, 35.0
#3954, TC3/NTC3 Springs, White, 40.0
#3988, TC3/NTC3 Spring Set, all springs above, 1pr.
ea.
27
Contents
Electrical
Radio
Your hand-held radio transmitter (fig. 1) sends signals
to your servos to control your car steering, speed and other
important adjustments. Popular radio systems include
Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo.
How can radios affect tuning?
Some radios have many tuning options for your car. See
your radio manual for your available features. (Terminology
can also differ between manufacturers.)
• Throw / Travel / End Point Adjustment (EPA). This
adjustment modifies how far the servo horn will rotate
from its rest or center position to one direction until it stops.
If the servo horn’s travel in one direction strains the linkage,
adjusting the EPA to shorten the travel on that side can solve
this problem. You can adjust either end independently of the
other.
• Trim / Sub Trim. The car may veer to one side when
the steering wheel is at rest. Steering trim adjusts the servo
ar
m’
arm’
m’ss center so the car will go straight when the wheel is at
rest. Instead of physically adjusting your servo horn, you
may simply adjust your trim.
Fig. 1 AM radio transmitter.
• Dual Rate. This feature allows you to change the
throw for both sides at once. It switches to a lesser amount
of steering. In slippery conditions, or a tight turn, or with a
twitchy car, this feature allows the driver to steer with more
control.
• Steering Exponential. This setting affects the rate of
ser
vo movement around the servo’s center position. A small
servo
movement of the wheel can make a larger or smaller movement of the servo around its center position. If you have
quick reflexes, you may set it so the car turns more quickly
when you start turning the wheel (a positive exponential
setting). Or you may prefer to turn the wheel more to make
the car turn (a negative exponential setting).
On setup sheet
You write in which brand of radio you used for this race.
Product info
Contact Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo for
radios, or see your local hobby dealer for radios and
servos.
28
Contents
Electrical
Steering Servo
Under your radio direction, the servo horn pivots left or
right, pushing/pulling the steering tie rods connecting between the servo and the wheels to help you steer your car.
The servo (fig. 1) is usually included with your purchase of
a radio transmitter. Popular servos include Airtronics, Cirrus,
Futaba, Hitec, JR Radio, and KO Propo.
What should I consider in a servo?
Generally, for on road racing, you may want a servo with
faster transit speed, because they will feel more responsive.
We recommend a servo of no lower than 70 to 80 oz. of
torque for the NTC3. The servo’s torque is measured in oz./
in. (The more ounces, the stronger the servo.)
Fig. 1 Steering servo.
On setup sheet
You write in which brand of steering servo you used in
your vehicle.
Product info
Contact Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo for
radios, or see your local hobby dealer for radios and
servos.
29
Contents
Other
Body
The aerodynamic body protects your components and
will influence your car’s handling on different tracks.
Your car accepts most 200mm touring car bodies.
On setup sheet
You write here which body you used.
Product info
For 200mm touring car bodies, try your local hobby
dealer
30
Contents
Other
Clutch Adjustment
When the engine revs increase, the clutch shoes, attached to the
flywheel on the shaft inside the clutch bell, are thrown outward by
centrifugal force. The shoes engage the inside of the clutch bell, which
then turn the clutch bell to accelerate the car. By making changes to the
clutch shoes, you can influence when your car engages. For instance,
too quick of an engagement on a loose surface can cause wheelspin.
The shorter the clutch shoes or the stiffer the clutch spring, the
higher the engine must rev before the clutch shoes will engage. This is
recommended for lower power engines.
The stock (longer) length clutch shoes and stock clutch springs
(softer) will have the quickest engagement. This is recommended for
most track conditions and high power engines.
Fig. 1 Clutch shoes on the flywheel, clutch bell removed.
Optional three-shoe clutch shown.
How do I know when to adjust the clutch?
ease the clutch engagement, try drilling the clutch shoes.
• To decr
decrease
Drill a 1.5mm hole through each of the clutch shoes. Do not drill more
than necessary. Your engine can get damaged from engine over-reving.
-power engines, drill the shoes or use the optional
• For lower
lower-power
stiffer clutch spring.
• For high-power engines, use the stock uncut shoes or use the
soft clutch spring.
• The stock clutch springs are recommended for most conditions.
How do I adjust the clutch?
You can change the number of shoes, alter their length, or change
the clutch spring.
You must remove the engine before you can adjust the clutch.
1. Pop off the linkage wire ball cup connected to the carb.
2. Loosen the pipe set screw and slide the pipe off the wire mount.
3. Pull the tube from the fuel tank adn pipe.
4. Unscrew the four engine mounting screws under the chassis.
TIP
Switch to a three-shoe clutch on low traction tracks.
Also switch to three-shoe with engines having extremely high revs to smooth out the engagement.
TIP
Drilling a 1.5mm hole through each of the clutch shoes
(side to side) lightens the shoes and simulates a stiffer
clutch shoe spring.
You must remove the clutch bell before you can adjust the clutch.
5. Remove the screw at the clutch bell end.
6. Slide off the clutch bell carefully, retaining the clutch bearing and
shim.
7. Remove the springs, then the shoes.
Product info
#2324, Non Pull Start 3-Shoe Flywheel
#2325, Pull Start 3-Shoe Flywheel
#2307, optional Clutch Springs
You may alter the shoes in two different ways:
a. With a hobby knife, slice the end of each shoe 1/16” of an inch
at a time until your target engagement has been met.
b. With a hobby knife or Dremel tool, cut a circular cut. Cut a small
segment at a time until your target engagement has been met.
To re-assemble the clutch, just follow steps1-6 in reverse, meshing
the gears properly.
On setup sheet
You note how many shoes you used, and cut or uncut.
You also note whether or not you used clutch springs.
31
Contents
Other
Diff adjustment, front
The front and rear differentials (diffs) allow some slippage. By changing the tightness of the diffs, you can adjust
the amount of steering for the front and rear.
• Standard setting is -1/4 turn from tight position.
• The more you turn from the tightened position (loosening the diff), the more steering you will feel.
• A tighter diff setting gives the feeling of less steering.
How do I adjust the front diff?
Fig. 1 Insert your Allen wrench here to adjust the diff.
Diff adjustment on the front is on the left side of the car
(muffler side)
1. Remove the front bumper and caster clips.
2. Remove the screw holding in the hinge pin and slide
out the hinge pin.
3. Remove the front left tire.
4. Fold down the upper arm and remove the axle from
the diff outdrive.
5. Insert your Allen wrench in the outdrive. Hold the spur
gears firmly and turn the wrench clockwise until tight. Back
off counter-clockwise to the desired setting.
6. Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble.
TIP
This is the last adjustment you would want to make.
When all other efforts fail, then make adjustments to
the diff.
On setup sheet
You note which setting you used, in fractions. You can
put anywhere from -1/8 to -3/4 (in multiples of 1/8).
32
Contents
Other
Diff adjustment, rear
The front and rear differentials (diffs) allow some slippage. By changing the tightness of the diffs, you can adjust
the amount of steering for the front and rear.
• Standard setting is -1/2 turn from tight position.
• The more you turn from the tightened position (loosening the diff), the less steering you will feel.
• A tighter diff setting will give the feeling of more
steering.
How do I adjust the rear diff?
Diff adjustment on the rear is on the right side of the car
(non-muffler side)
1. Remove the right rear wheel.
2. Remove the screw holding in the hinge pin and slide
out the hinge pin.
3. Pop off the ball end at rear.
4. Fold down the upper arm and remove the axle from
the diff outdrive.
5. Insert your Allen wrench in the outdrive. Turn wrench
clockwise until tight. Back off counter-clockwise to the
desired setting.
6. Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble.
Fig. 1 Insert your Allen wrench here to adjust the diff.
On setup sheet
You note which setting you used, in fractions. You can
put anywhere from -1/8 to -3/4 (in multiples of 1/8).
TIP
This is the last adjustment you would want to make.
When all other efforts fail, then make adjustments to
the diff.
33
Contents
Other
Front One Way
The “one way” means the wheels will be controlled only
one way--on power. They will free spin when off power. Also,
when off throttle, the rear tires will supply all the braking.
Using a one way will put more stress on the driveline
(because there is no diff action) and make it easier to
damage the driveline parts (especially under impact).
How do I know when to use it?
Switch to the front one way when you want more on
power steering.
On setup sheet
You indicate that you used the front one way.
Front axle differences
Below shows the main differences among the standard
diffs, one way, and solid axle:
Front brakes
Lock on
acceleration
(no slip)
Standard
yes
One Way
no
Solid Axle
yes
diff action
locks
locks
Product info
#1728, HD One Way Assembly
#1729, TC3/NTC3 One Way Housing
#1730, NTC3 Outdrive Cups
#1732, HD One Way Gear
#1733, HD One Way Shims
34
Contents
Other
Pinion & Spur
spur gear
By making changes to your spur and pinion gears, you
can influence your car’s speed of acceleration and top end
speed. To your question of “How do I go faster?” the
answer is found here!
pinion gear
How do I know which combination to use?
• Use the following combination of pinion and spur
gears in the 2 speed to maintain the correct gear mesh.
20/24 with 52/48
21/25 with 52/48
22/26 with 52/48
23/27 with 52/48
Fig. 1 Here are the spur and pinion gears. First gear of
each is on the right (toward the rear).
• The bigger the final drive number, the faster accelera-
TIP
The following have less difference in speed and
acceleration than list at left. The following could be
useful in small and tight tracks, where you usually run
your car with single speed gearbox instead of a twospeed gearbox. (Figures are based on 4 gear separation. Factory Drivers sometimes go as high as a 6 gear
split.)
50 or 48
54 or 52
(2nd gear)
(1st gear)
50/27 = 4.62
54/23 = 5.86
50/26 = 4.80
54/22 = 6.13
50/25 = 5.00
54/21 = 6.42
50/24 = 5.20
54/20 = 6.75
tion you will get. The lower the number, the mor
moree top end it
will have.
• To figure out the final drive number, do the math:
spur gear divided by clutch bell pinion gear x transmission
ratio of 2.5 = final drive ratio.
Example:
(54 divided by 20) x 2.5 = 6.75 (fastest acceleration, lowest top
speed)
(54 divided by 21) x 2.5 = 6.43 (next fastest acceleration)
(54 divided by 22) x 2.5 = 6.14 (next fastest acceleration, more top
speed)
How do I change the spur gears?
48/27 = 4.44
48/26 = 4.61
48/25 = 4.80
48/24 = 5.00
See the manual full instructions.
On setup sheet
You mark which spur/pinion gear combinations you
used. 1st gear is the set of gears toward the rear of the car.
2nd gear is the set toward the front.
52/23 = 5/65
52/22 = 5.90
52/21 = 6.19
52/20 = 6.50
Product info
#2263, 48 tooth Spur Gear (2nd)
#2264, 50 tooth Spur Gear (2nd)
#2265, 52 tooth Spur Gear (1st)
#2266, 54 tooth Spur Gear (1st)
See your local hobby shop for more spur gears.
35
Contents
Other
Solid Axle
The solid axle, like the one way, does not use the diff
action, but unlike the one way, it provides four-wheel braking
capability.
Using a solid axle will put more stress on the driveline
(because there is no diff action) and make it easier to
damage the driveline parts (especially under impact).
How do I know when to use it?
• Used in the front, the solid axle works like a one way
while on power, but you still retain four wheel braking
capability. It’s used for slippery conditions or for tight tracks
with short, straight stretches.
ear
• Used in the rrear
ear,, on very high bite tracks it gives
excellent acceleration with good on-power steering. But it is
less stable coming out of the turn.
On setup sheet
You indicate that you used the solid axle.
Front axle differences
Below shows the main differences among the standard
diffs, one way, and solid axle:
Front brakes
Lock on
acceleration
(no slip)
Standard
yes
One Way
no
Solid Axle
yes
diff action
locks
locks
Product info
#1404, Front/Rear Solid Axle with gears
#3939, TC3/NTC3 One Way and Solid Axle Differential
Gear
36
Other
2-Speed Shift Adjustment
Contents
When your car has a single-speed transmission, you
may be geared for acceleration (quick start-up), top end (the
top speed you could attain), or some point in between. With
a 2-speed, you broaden the range of useable adjustments.
When you are in first gear, your 2-speed may be geared for
acceleration. When you shift into second, you can be more
favorably geared toward top end.
By increasing or decreasing the spring tension in the 2speed’s clutch shoes you can change the shift point from
first to second gear to take advantage of this broader gearing
range at strategic points in the race.
When would I change the 2-speed?
• Standard setting is both black screws all the way in
and backed off equally 3 1/2 turns counterclockwise. Most
of your adjustments will be between 3 and 3 1/2 turns.
Make your adjustments in 1/8 turn amounts as follows.
• If you want the car to shift into second gear later
later,,
tighten down both screws equally 1/8 of a turn to increase
the spring tension.
• If you want the car to shift into second gear sooner
sooner,,
loosen both screws equally 1/8 of a turn to decrease the
spring tension.
How do I adjust the 2-speed?
As with most adjustments in this Guide, turn off your
engine.
1. Lift the car and hold the spur gear in place with your
thumb (fig. 1, #1), the bell opening facing up (fig. 1, #3).
2. Turn the rear wheel slowly (fig. 1, #2).
3. Watch for the adjustment screw to appear in the
opening of the 2-speed bell (fig. 1, #3). It will be a black
screw, at an angle. When looking at the front of the 2-speed,
there will be a number 1 and 2 on the shoes where the
adjustment screws are located. Look and remember which
number you adjusted first so you do not adjust this shoe
again.
3. Insert your Allen wrench and adjust as needed (fig.
2, #4). Do not overtighten the springs.
4. Remove Allen wrench and turn the rear wheel again
and repeat for the second set screw, adjusting it the same
amount.
On setup sheet
You don’t mark the shift adjustment on the setup sheet.
Fig. 1 Adjusting the 2-speed, steps 1-3.
Fig. 2 Adjusting the 2-speed, step 4.
TIP
After running your car for a tank of fuel, remove your
two-speed housing and clean any oil or residue from
inside the housing and outside the shoes to ensure
37 consistent shifting.
Contents
Other
Weight
You can balance or increase the chassis weight by
adding lead weights (fig. 1) to the car.
Why should I add weight?
• To bring the kit up to any minumum race weight
requirements.
• To counter any battery and motor imbalance by adding
weights to the other side of the car.
• Add weight if you need extra steering on slick or high
traction tracks. Your car will change direction slower. Not
used for rough surfaces. 7 grams weight is standard.
Fig. 1 Add these break-off weights to your NTC3.
How do I add weight?
The weight can come in the form of a lead stick that has
been pre-perforated in small segments (fig. 1) that you
break off and add to the car. The weight is fixed to the car
with pre-attached sticky tape or servo tape.
On setup sheet
You mark here how much weight you added to the car in
grams or ounces. In the picture you mark where you added
the weight.
Product info
#1595, Factory Team Chassis Lead Weights
38
Contents
Other
Wing
Your wing (fig. 1) aids in rear traction. For instance, you
can slide the wing back for more rear traction. Some aftermarket wings allow more adjustments.
Wings are a vital part of the car’s stability. The angle you
place the wing and how much of the wing you cut will cause
the car to handle differently. Also the canards, which are
sides of the wings, can change the handling based on how
tall and long they are. So you have a lot of variables that
you can play with on the wings for different handling characteristics.
Fig. 1 The wing usually comes with the body.
On setup sheet
You indicate if you used a wing and what hole mount
position was used.
39
Contents
Engine/Carb/Pipe
Carburetor
Two kinds of carbs are available for nitro engine R/C kits,
rotary, fig. 1, and slide valve.
What is the difference between the two?
• Rotary carbs are most common on .12 and .15
engines. When running at lower speeds the barrel is considered to be less responsive. At full throttle, there is more
hardware in the venture; that slightly reduces maximum
airflow and, therefore, maximum power output.
• Slide carbs. Instead of having a hole through its center
section, the barrel is virtually solid. To regulate airflow, it
slides to allow air to flow past its end rather than through it.
The advantage of a slide carb is that there’s always a
smoother path for the air flow, regardless of throttle position,
and this maximizes power.
Fig. 1 Rotary carb shown.
On setup sheet
You note which type of carb you used, rotation or slide
valve. Carb settings are not noted on the setup sheet. For
more about carb settings, please see your engine manual.
Carb restrictor
Carb restrictors “restrict” the amount of air entering the
carburetor. Carb restrictors, fig. 2, can be used to help
control the amount of wheel spin coming out of corners,
resulting in a car that’s easier to drive, but top speed will be
reduced. The carb restrictor goes where shown at arrow.
If you remove the carb restrictor in the RTR NTC3, you
must compensate for the extra air intake by richening the
fuel mixture.
Which carb restrictor do I use?
Use a smaller hole carb restrictor if you need to control
your car better coming out of turns by reducing wheel spin.
Fig. 2 Restrictor in AE .12 engine supplied with the NTC3
RTRs.
How do I change the carb restrictor?
By removing the air filter parts, inserting the restrictor
where located in fig. 2, and replacing the air filter parts.
On setup sheet
You mark which size restrictor you used, if any.
40
Contents
Engine/Carb/Pipe
Engine Brand & Size
Engines come in fixed sizes. The “.12” and “.15” sizes
refers to the capacity in cc’s (cubic centimeters, the space
occupied by the piston and sleeve). Engines also come in
different crankshaft lengths within each size; the NTC3 only
accepts engines with short or SG style crankshafts.
How do I know which engine to use?
The Nitro TC3 will work with:
• .12 or .15 non-big block engines.
• Short crank or SG style cranks.
• Slide or rotary carbs.
• Pull or non-pull starts.
• Some engines have proprietary size cranks. You will
need to talk to those engine manufacturers to get spacers,
collets, etc., that will mount the engine properly. If you get
an engine with a long crank, you will need to cut it and use
the supplied #2312 clutch nut adapter.
fig. 1 Associated pull start engine.
On setup sheet
You note which size of engine you used, .12 or .15.
You note what brand of engine you used.
Converting to side exhaust
If you have kit #2031 (non pull start), rear exhaust
manifold and pipe are included.
If you want to use a side exhaust pull start engine,
you'll need:
#2340 pull start engine mounts
#2323 pull start flywheel
#2343 side exhaust manifold
#7730 side exhaust pipe
#2344, muffler mount wire
TIP
Four rules of engine tuning (by Paris Racing)
1 Rich is good. Blue smoke should always be coming
from the exhaust.
2 Always set the high-speed needle first.
3 Never try to tune a cold engine—wait for it to get up
to operating temperature.
4 Always begin your engine tuning from a rich highspeed needle setting. Never start out with a lean
setting.
Converting to rear exhaust
If you have kit #2030 or #2040 (pull start), side
exhaust manifold and pipe are included.
If you want to use a rear exhaust non pull start
engine, you'll need:
#2341 non pull engine mounts
#2322 non pull flywheel
#2350, rear exhaust header
#2353, rear exhaust muffler
#2357, manifold spring
#2358, muffler mount wire
Product info
#1710, Factory Team NTC3 Non Pull Engine Mounts,
blue alum., pr.
#2312, Clutch Nut Adapter
#2322, NTC3 Non Pull Flywheel, 2-shoe type
#2324, NTC3 Non Pull Flywheel, 3-shoe type
#2341, NTC3 Non Pull Engine Mounts, pr.
41
Contents
Engine/Carb/Pipe
Engine Temperature
Your engine temperature can indicate proper or improper tuning of
your engine. Overheating will shorten the life of your engine. You should
follow your engine manufacturer’s recommendations as to temperature;
220° F is usually within the range of many recommendations. The late
Ron Paris of Paris Racing recommended that all of the following
conditions of a good engine MUST be met BEFORE any temperature can
be considered correct. If these conditions are met without any engine
problems, then take the temperature and mark it on the setup sheet.
1. There must be a visible trail of smoke when accelerating from
EVERY corner.
2. The idle is stable.
3. The glow plug wire stays somewhat shiny and its coil stays
round (not distorted).
4. The engine performance is good.
How do I change the temperature?
Many factors affect engine temperature. Not all of them can be
changed (such as the outdoor temperature!), but should nevertheless be
taken into consideration. Here are just a few factors:
• Your carb settings affect the temperature. The carburetor mixes the
air and fuel before they go into the engine. Letting in more fuel than air
results in a “rich” setting (turning the high speed fuel mixture screw so
the opening is wider). Lesser fuel results in a “lean” setting.
Your fuel contains oil which lubricates the crankshaft; if the setting is too
lean (not enough lubrication), then the engine can overheat. It is better
to err on the rich side and gradually go leaner.
• The outdoor temperature will affect your engine: Hotter temperatures will let in hot air, which may overheat your engine. Change your
carb settings for this, making it richer.
• Elevation makes a difference: The amount of air entering your
carb will be rarer in the mountain tops than at sea level, so you may get
more fuel than you think.
• The percentage of your fuel makes a difference. A lower percentage makes for a cooler engine, but lowers your top end.
• A properly tuned pipe will help your engine to stay cooler better
than a poorly made or chosen pipe. This is because the back pressure in
the tuned pipe, rebounding from your engine, is sucking the hot exhaust
away from your engine. It’s hard to beat the Associated tuned pipe.
Fig. 1 You can measure your engine temperature with a
temperature gauge or gun available at your local hobby
stores.
On setup sheet
You note your engine temperature. You measure the temperature
with a special sensor, fig. 1, made for the purpose.
Product info
See your local hobby shop for temperature gauges
42
Contents
Engine/Carb/Pipe
Fuel
The percentage of nitro mix (such as 20%) refers to how
much combustible nitro the glow fuel contains. The higher
the percentage, the more combustable, the more rpms
possible (because the greater combustion drives the piston
harder), but the more quickly your engine wears. (WARNING: Do not use airplane and helicopter fuels; they may not
have the necessary oil types and ratios for R/C cars.) Fuel
mixture, therefore, is an area of tuning for top speed and
engine temperature.
When do I change the fuel mixture?
20% is standard among many fuel manufacturers.
(Associated does not recommend racers mix their own fuels
to change the mixture. For safety, buy pre-mixed fuels.)
Always follow the recommendations that came with your
fuel.
• For mor
moree top speed, try going higher, but your engine
wear will increase.
• For an easier to drive car
car,, go lower in percentage, but
your top end will decrease.
How do I know what fuel to use?
• Improper fuel can cause hard starting, poor performance, and excessive wear on the engine. The fuels we
recommend for R/C car use are: O’Donnell Racing Fuel, Blue
Thunder Race Formula, Trinity, Byron’s Originals, and Wild
Cat fuel.
Caution: Do not use any type of airplane fuels. Airplane
fuels may not have the necessary oil types andratios needed
for R/C car engines.
• There are many other racing fuels than those listed
above; however, they must meet two requirements:
1. The fuel must contain at least 18% of both castor and
synthetic oils.
2. You should try to keep the nitro (nitromenthane)
between 10% to 20%. The best fuels also contain rust and
corrosion inhibitors, anti-wear agents, anti-foaming agents,
and lubrication additives.
TIP
Cleaning your engine.
Oily sludge is a fact of life in gas R/C. The oil comes
from the oil/nitro mixture of your fuel. It doesn’t burn,
but lubricates the barrel chamber and then gets spewed
out. After running, clean your car with Nitro Cleaner,
available at your local hobby stores, or isopopyl
alcohol.
TIP
After running your car for a tank of fuel, remove your
two-speed housing and clean any oil or residue from
inside the housing and outside the shoes to ensure
consistent shifting.
On setup sheet
You note which glow fuel mixture you used and who
manufactured the fuel.
Product info
Please contact your hobby shop for availability of fuel.
43
Contents
Engine/Carb/Pipe
Glow Plug
The purpose of the glow plug, fig. 2, is to ignite the fuel
in the engine. The battery-operated glow plug igniter heats
the glow plug wire coil. When the fuel enters the chamber it
is ignited by the glowing coil. Each explosion drives the
engine piston and thus your shaft, accelerating your car. The
plug wire remains glowing red hot by the continuing internal
combustion of the fuel. The glow plug wire type provides
several ways you can tune your engine’s performance.
When do I change the glow plug?
Associated drivers find that the #MC59 McCoy glow plug
works well under many types of conditions, from low altitude
to high, from low temperature to high. It comes highly
recommended as a great, all-around glow plug.
You change your glow plug before performance drops off
or before it harms the engine. Here are some tips from Paris
Racing:
• If wire and surrounding bottom of plug is dry, wire
distorted, then change the plug.
• If wire and surrounding bottom of plug is dry, wire
broken and distorted or burnt up, then change the plug.
A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally
gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test, just put in
a new plug and if there is no difference in performance, save
the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or
run right, try a new plug before making a major tuning
change elsewhere.
Fig. 1 Glow plug installed.
Fig. 2 Glow plug and copper gasket.
How do I change the plug?
Unscrew it from the engine head, and screw another one
in. If your plug is not screwed in tightly enough, the engine
vibrations can cause it to back off. Your engine may sputter
unexpectedly and die because of the decreased pressure.
Make sure the copper gasket is on.
On setup sheet
You write in which glow plug type you used.
Product info
#MC59, McCoy Glow Plug (medium/cold plug)
44
Contents
Engine/Carb/Pipe
Muffler/Tuned Pipe
The tuned pipe, fig. 1, does more than muffle the roar that angers
your neighbors at 2 a.m. As the exhaust exits your engine through the
manifold and into the pipe, it backs up in the pipe and causes “back
pressure” toward the engine. This back pressure creates several useful
tuning possibilities for the engine, which are modified by the shape of
the tuned pipe.
The pipe shape can determine your top end and other features. For
instance, a longer pipe can increase your top end. A more tapered pipe
can remove some of the punch, resulting in smoother acceleration. The
exhaust also sets up a pressure that is forced through the tubing into
your gas tank, which helps force gas into the engine more efficiently,
resulting in more rpms than without the tuned pipe. Thus, a set of tuned
pipes for different racing conditions is a must for serious racing.
Your pipe should match your engine type. A side-exhaust engine
requires a side-exhaust pipe, fig. 2, and a rear-exhaust engine requires
a rear-exhaust pipe, fig. 2.
Fig. 1 Side exhaust pipe installed.
How do I know which pipe is best?
Always start with Associated’s standard pipe, making changes to
other areas of the car first.
• Use a torque-tuned muffler, fig. 3, when on shor
shortt or technical
tracks where you are on and off power a lot.
• Use an RPM-tuned muffler, fig. 3, when on big tracks with
sweeping corners. Also try the dual chamber pipes for this.
Fig. 2 Side exhaust pipe.
Rear exhaust pipe.
Fig. 3 Torque-tuned pipe.
RPM-tuned pipe.
How do I change to another pipe?
1. Remove the fuel line from the pipe.
2. Loosen the set screw and slide it off the wire mount.
3. Cut off the wire tie on the other end and pull off the pipe.
4. Put another pipe into the silicone tubing and fasten in place with
another wire tie.
5. Slide the other end onto the wire mount and tighten the set screw.
6. Insert the fuel line into the pipe.
TIP
The shorter the pipe is to your manifold, the more
torque you will have. The longer the pipe is from your
manifold, the more top speed your car will have.
On setup sheet
You write in which pipe you used, whether Standard (Associated) or
another pipe.
Product info
#1755, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Blue Muffler
#1756, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Natural Muffler
#1757, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Black Muffler
#1763, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Blue Dual Chamber Muffler
#1764, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Natural Dual Chamber Muffler
#1765, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Black Dual Chamber Muffler
#1771, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Blue Muffler
#1772, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Natural Muffler
#1773, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Black Muffler
#1774, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Blue Muffler
#1775, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Natural Muffler
#1776, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Black Muffler
#2353, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Muffler (kit std.)
#2354, Dual Chamber Muffler
#7730, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Muffler (kit std.)
#7731, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Muffler
Conversion notes:
If you have: #2030 or #2040 (pull start), side exhaust manifold
and pipe are included.
If you want to use a rear exhaust non pull start engine, you'll need:
#2341 non pull engine mounts
#2322 non pull flywheel
#2350, rear exhaust header
#2353, rear exhaust muffler
#2357, manifold spring
45
Contents
Engine/Carb/Pipe
Starter
Nitro engines, fig. 1, are started when rotational
pressure is applied to the engine flywheel. The flywheel
drives the piston to suck the fuel and air mixture through the
carburetor into the engine. Once there, the glow plug wire
ignites the fuel and drives the piston from that point on.
This initial startup is accomplished either by pulling on a
handle (with short, fast 4-6 inch long pulls), or by a starter
box (fig. 2) which houses an electric-powered rotating
rubber wheel that you push the car's flywheel against. The
spinning rubber wheel then turns the engine's flywheel and
starts your engine. So, engines come in pull start versions
and non pull start versions.
fig. 1 Pull start engines are easy to recognize by their
handle.
How do I know which starter type to use?
• The convenient pull start version, fig. 1, means that
you can start your engine anywhere, and you would not
need carry a starter box to start the engine. Adding the pull
start system directly to the engine, however, means more
wear and tear on the engine. It is a little more expensive
than the non pull start engines, but you do not have the
added expense of a starter box if you don't want to purchase
one. If you choose to use the starter box later, you can do so
with no extra parts needed.
• Non pull star
startt has its own advantages for the racer.
Without the pull start feature, the engine sits lower, improving the center of gravity and thus the car's handling. And
without the pull start, the engine is lighter.
With a non pull start engine, you must purchase a starter
box, fig. 2, to turn the flywheel. The starter is powered by
either two 6 cell battery packs or a 12 volt gel cell. In some
cases adapter cables allow you to use the battery from your
automobile.
fig. 2 You will need a starter box if you use a non pull
start engine.
On setup sheet
You note which starter you have, pull start or non pull
start.
fig. 3 Pull starter handle with short, quick jerks. Point
exhaust outlet away from you when starting.
TIP
You may need to prime the carb (get fuel into the carb
for quicker starting) if you have not started the engine
in a while. The best way to prime the carburetor is to
put your car on the starter box and hold your finger
over the exhaust hole. Do this just briefly. This will push
just enough fuel into the carb to allow it to start.
46
Contents
General Setup
Track Conditions
Note carefully your type of track conditions, then go back over this Guide and look
for underlined terms that match your track. Note what changes are recommended and
get ahead of the competition already!
Also, paying particular attention to track conditions will help others understand
why you deviated from the standard setup, or used it successfully. Note any track
layout description (length, etc.) if your track layout is changed frequently. Tracks also
change depending on the weather, being damp or dry, and such information omitted
may cost you the next race if you use the same settings when the track changes from
dry to damp.
Setup sheets without this track information is practically useless, because the
whole idea of setups is to hook up the vehicle to race to its fullest potential on those
track conditions.
On setup sheet
You mark here the type of track you drove on.
Race Comments
Every racer should get a feeling for why they finished where they did. Some reasons are obvious, others not so obvious.
On setup sheet
You write here your outcome of the race. Did you TQ with these settings? Did you
win, but only because the racer who always beat you in the past did not show? You
may want to note these details. In which Main did you finish? Was it tough competition or smooth sailing? What observations can you write here that will help you race
next time? These comments will help you and those who see your setup sheet.
Car Comments
Every driver has to judge their vehicle’s overall handling after all the settings have
been made and put to the test. You should be able to express those observations on
paper.
On setup sheet
You write here how your vehicle handled overall. Also note any new hop-ups you
were experimenting with, and what impact they had on the car’s performance. What
made you happy about the car? How were you dissatisfied? What problems came up
that you would want to consult a more experienced racer about?
47
Contents
General Setup
Getting the Best Setup
The following is how expert racers dial their cars to the track. Tuning changes
combined with practice, practice, and more practice makes a winner. Only make
changes that you can justify.
• Make a copy of the blank setup sheet and date it. Copy down the standard
settings from the Contents page. Adjust your NTC3 kit so it matches the standard
setup. Fill out the Track Conditions section of the setup. Mark the page as “Standard
Setup.” Put the setup sheet aside and consider the following tips from the pros.
• Before you change any of your settings, make sure you can get around the track
without crashing. None of your setup changes will work if you cannot stay on the
track. Your goal at this point is to get consistent lap times, not to go fast. Your lap
times may be inconsistent because of poor control. So get a watch that counts laps
and have a friend time your laps until they are consistent. Keep notes of your lap
times so you can check your progress. You may note your best times on the back of
your current setup sheet.
• After your lap times are consistent, focus on your tire type. What are the winning
racers using? Read the Wheels & Tires sections for basic guidelines on tire choice.
Change your tires if necessary, mark the change on your setup sheet, and practice.
Are your lap times the same, better or worse? If your lap times are better, then you
have either become a better driver or your new tires have made a difference.
• Once your lap times are consistent, you can start making the tuning changes in
this booklet. Make changes one at a time, checking your lap times each time before
you make another change. Read the Guide carefully and thoroughly to make sure
your changes match the conditions of the track, and that you are addressing real
problems. Mark each change on your setup sheet. When you have made real
progress, you may want to make up a new setup sheet with those changes. Put it in a
safe place; it can be used again later if you race on a track with similar conditions.
48
Contents
General Setup
Maintenance
Your NTC3 will give you many hours of trouble-free operation when you regularly
check for wear and tear.
You should periodically check all the moving parts of the car, especially before a
big race. Here is a sample checklist in alphabetical order.
• A-arms, front and rear. Check for cracks from crashes. Make sure arms move
smoothly; remove dirt build-up. Make sure hinge pins are still straight.
• Air filter. Replace air filter when it obviously looks dirty.
• Ball cups. Check if they need replacing. Clear the ball ends of dirt. Apply ball
end dust covers to minimize dirt.
• Batteries. Check their charge, connections, and mounting.
• Body. Check that body clips are not missing, and body is not touching tires.
• Brake parts. Replace worn brake pad.
• Bushings and bearings. Replace worn bushings and bearings. Oil slightly worn
bearings.
• 2-speed Clutch. Adjust so it’s shifting properly. Check that engine clutch shoes
are clean and springs are working properly.
• Glow plug. Replace when burnt.
• Fuel tank. Check for leaks and dirt, for good seals around O-rings.
• Fuel tubing. Check for leaks. See that they are kept from being cut by or interfering with other parts.
• Radio system. Check batteries.
• Receiver and servos. Check for firm mounting.
• Screws. Because of the vibration of gas engines, check the chassis and other
critical screws for tightness after every run. (Screw tips: Apply locking compound for
screws in metal. Clean out the screw head opening before inserting your driver to
minimize wear. Replace the kit’s L-shaped Allen wrenches with good drivers like the
Factory Team Allen Driver Set #6980. Can’t get screws out? With a Dremel tool, cut a
slot in the screw head and use a flat head screwdriver to remove it.)
• Shocks. Check for consistent dampening all around. Refill with new oil. At that
time, check and replace worn inner shock seal parts.
• Steering blocks/hub carriers. Check for cracks from crashes. Make sure they
move smoothly; remove dirt build-up.
• Wires. Check for any frayed wires or loose connections.
49
Contents
NTC3 FAQs
General Questions
What do I need to install a non pull start engine?
Non pull start engine
#2341 non pull start mounts
#2322 non pull start flywheel
Contact the engine manufacturer if you want to convert the engine itself.
Where can I find a track to race my car?
Go to our web site and click on Hobby Shops & Tracks,
Where do I find painting ideas for a new body?
Try the Racer Spotlight online for painting inspiration.
How can I get the latest general products catalog?
Go to our web site and click on Associated Products, then scroll down.
Wher
Wheree can I find other racer
racer’’s setup sheets?
Go to our web site and click on Kit Setups & Tips, then scroll down.
Where can I find more bodies and tires?
Your local hobby store or track should carry a complete selection of each.
What does “AE” mean?
It stands for Associated Electrics, Inc., our company name.
How can I make my car go faster?
Change to a larger tooth 32 pitch clutch bell or smaller 32 pitch spur gear.
What size bodies fit my NTC3?
200mm touring car bodies.
What is the lowest possible final drive ratio using the current available clutchbells and spur gears with the
2.5 drivetrain ratio?
The lowest is 6.75 with a 54/20. The tightest: 4.44, 48/27.
50
NTC3 FAQs
Upgrading the NTC3 RTR
Contents
What do I need to replace my axles with MIP CVDs?
#3886 TC3/NTC3 CVD stub axle with hardware
#3888 Factory Blue TC3/NTC3 aluminum CVD bones
What do I need to change from a single speed to a 2-speed?
#2285 NTC3 two-speed, unassembled.
#2284 NTC3 two-speed, assembled.
What other engines will fit in my car?
Almost any .12 or .15 short shaft or SG crank non-big block glow fuel engine designed for R/C cars.
What do I need to install a solid axle?
#1704 NTC3 solid axle assembly.
What do I need to install a front one-way?
#1705 NTC3 front one-way assembly.
I can’t seem to get my two speed to shift.
Once you ran the car did you go back and follow the racer tip on page 8 section 9 of the manual? Do that
first then make sure you do not over tighten the springs that are inside the two speed shoes, then when adjusting
the two speed, the normal spectrum for adjustments is between 3 to 3 ½ turns the closer to 3 turns the later the
shift point, while at the closer to 3 ½ the earlier the shift point.
Is the composite CVD shaft just as good as the aluminum one?
Do not use the composite CVD shafts on the nitro car, they are for the electric car only.
I want to cut the crank on my AE .15. Will this affect the warranty?
The AE.15 will not fit in the NTC3. There is no clutch nut adapter made for the AE.15 crank.
Can a Nitro TC3 be modified with the TC3 Rally?
You cannot use the TC3 Rally conversion for the NTC3.
While testing the servo functions I noticed that the steering will not “zero” out after turning the wheels in
either direction.
Check your pivot balls and make sure they are not too tight. Also center your steering trim before you snap
on the servo arm. Check the swing rack so it moves freely and that none of the steering assembly is bound.
I noticed there is a lot of steering play in my NTC3. What can I do to solve this problem?
You can put a stiffer spring up in front and/or use a front sway bar. Turning down your radio’s dual rate will
also help out a lot. You can change to a heavier tension spring (#6587) for the servo saver.
How do I prime the engine?
Put your finger over the exhaust hole on your pipe or over the carb opening, and pull the pull start a couple
of times (or bump the engine on the starter box.)
51
Contents
Online Resources
Start your internet connection and click on the button to access these helpful links.
WEB
Reference Pages
Info on the latest Nitro TC3 kit releases.
Uup-to-date catalogs and exploded drawings.
Kit instruction manual.
Setup sheets.
Factory Team High Performance hop-ups.
New Products.
Engine Related Links
Nitro Troubleshooting Guide, including slide carb installation and engine break-in tips
(originally for the RC10GT truck, much info here may be helpful in your case too.)
Engine instruction manual.
Lifetime Engine Replacement Policy.
Quick Start Guide and troubleshooting tips.
Engine Q&A.
How-T
o Instr
uctions
How-To
Instructions
How to troubleshoot and break in your nitro engine.
How to remove and oil the AE engine’s One Way bearing.
How to hook up the throttle return spring #7562 on your engine.
How to mount a slide carb on your engine in the NTC3.
How to install the 2 Speed kit in the NTC3.
How to install MIP CVDs in the NTC3.
How to cut the crankshaft for your GT or NTC3.
How to install the front blade anti-roll kit on the NTC3.
Set up your NTC3 brake/throttle linkage correctly (for rotary or slide carbs).
How to install a rear exhaust muffler in the NTC3.
Other
TC3/NTC3 Talk Forum.
Spring Rate Chart.
Gear Ratio Chart for the NTC3.
Wallpaper & movies.
52
Contents
General Setup
Setting the Tweak
The idea of setting chassis tweak is to get all four tires pushing
down with equal weight. To set the tweak of a 4WD independent
suspension kit, use a tool like the MIP Tweak Station© (fig. 1). Lifting
the tires with a blade to check for tweak as you would for a fixed-axle
pan car would work, but every little droop measurement and shock
must be perfect. So we recommend the Tweak Station.
1. First check to make sure your car suspension does not bind in any
way, and that your turnbuckles are at proper length. Disconnect any
sway bars (fig. 2).
Fig. 1 MIP Tweak Station.
2. Place your car onto the tweak machine, carefully centering the car
tires according to the tick marks on the stationary and rocker beams
(fig. 3). It does not matter which direction the car faces. For these
instructions, we’ll assume you put the front end on the rocker beam.
3. Push down and let off on the middle of the front and rear shock
towers several times to loosen them (fig. 4).
4. Check the bubble level (fig. 5). If the bubble is centered, then the
front of the car is tweaked correctly. No adjustments are necessary.
Fig. 2 Unhook anti-roll bar connections.
5. If the bubble floats to the left, then adjust the front shock spring on
the other side, the right (fig. 6), to compensate for tweak. (This
means that you add a preload spacer between the shock hex portion
and spring, or turn the nut on the threaded shock to push the spring
downward.) If the bubble floats left, then adjust the front shock spring
on the right.
6. Turn the car around and do the other end to ensure both the front
and rear are tweaked level. Re-attach the sway bar, being careful not
to upset the tweak.
Fig. 3 Centered on stand.
Fig. 5 Bubble at left.
Fig. 6 Make first change at
opposite corner from bubble
position. Wtih bubble at left, car
pointing forward, make change at
rear right of car as shown.
Fig. 4 Loosen the suspension
Product info
Several manufacturers make products to adjust tweak
accurately.
http://www.miponline.com/
http://shop.hudy.net/
54
1 . P r in t o u t a n d p la c e p a g e o n fla t
s u rfa c e .
A lig n c h a s s is h e r e
2 . P la c
to w a rd
o u ts id e
lin e s fo
e N T
th e
to p
r 2 °
C 3 o
w o rd
lin e s
to e - in
n p a g e , fro n t o f c a r
" F r o n t." P la c e tir e s
fo r 0 ° to e - in o r b o tto m
.
3 . A lig n le ft c h a s s is e d g e p a r a lle l to lin e a t
le ft, k e e p in g tir e s a g a in s t th e lin e s .
4 . L o o k d o w n a lo n g tir e e d g e to c h e c k
a n g le o f tir e s a g a in s t a n g le o f lin e s .
5 . A d ju s t tu r n b u c k le s
p a r a lle l w ith lin e s . W h
p e r fe c tly p a r a lle l to lin
th e n s p e c ifie d to e - in h
© A s s o c ia te d E le c tr ic s , In c .
3 5 8 5 C a d illa c A v e .
C o s ta M e s a , C A 9 2 6 2 6
u n
e n
e s
a s
til tir e s a r e
tir e s a r e
o n e ith e r s id e ,
b e e n a c h ie v e d .
Driver ____________________________________________
Contents
Track / City __________________________________________________
SETUP SHEET for the Nitro TC3
Click on blue text to bring up links
Event __________________________________ Date ______________
FRONT SUSPENSION
CASTER ____6°
____9°
FRONT SHOCKS
____12°
BODY
____ threaded
____ other
ANTI-ROLL BAR
____ none
____ 3960 kit
____ 1717 front blade kit
____ blade setting
CAMBER ______°
TOE-IN ______°
RIDE HEIGHT ______ mm
SPRING (color)
__________________
ACKERMAN
____ STD (3857 ball ends)
____ opt. (6270 ball ends)
DROOP ______
BUMP STEER SPACERS ______”
CAMBER LINK
____ inner hole
____ outer hole
OIL ____ wt
PISTONS #____
DRIVESHAFTS
____ MIP
____ other
REAR SUSPENSION
TOWER MOUNTING
____ inner hole
____middle hole
____outer hole
ARM MOUNTING
____ inner hole
____outer hole
SHAFTS
____ unobtainium
____ STD
REAR SHOCKS
CAMBER ______°
ANTI-ROLL BAR
____ none
____ 3960 kit
TOE-IN ______°
DRIVESHAFTS
____ MIP
____ other
DROOP ______
OTHER
BODY ____ threaded
____ other
SPRING (color) __________________
OIL ____ wt
TOWER MOUNTING
____ inner hole
____middle hole
____outer hole
PISTONS #____
CAMBER LINK
____ inner hole
____ outer hole
SHAFTS
____ unobtainium
____ STD
ARM MOUNTING
____ inner hole
____outer hole
FUEL BRAND ________________________
BODY _____________________________
FRONT TIRES ________________________
NITRO _____ 20%
WING _______________________________
FRONT INSERTS _____________________
ENGINE BRAND ______________________
RADIO ____________________________
FRONT WHEELS _____________________
_____ pull start
ST. SERVO ________________________
REAR TIRES _________________________
____ .12
REAR INSERTS _______________________
CARB _____ rotary
REAR WHEELS _______________________
CARB RESTRICTOR _____ none
TIRE ADDITIVE ______________________
____none
ONE-WAY ____ none
____ front
SOLID AXLE ____front
____rear
TRACK WIDTH
____ STD (gauge)
WEIGHTS
____ none
____ (in./mm)
_______%
_____ non pull start
____ .15
ENG. TEMP. _____ °
_____ slide valve
_____”
THR. SERVO _______________________
1st GEAR PINION / SPUR ____ / ____
2nd GEAR PINION / SPUR ____ / ____
Single Speed: PINION / SPUR ____ / ____
CLUTCH ____ 2 shoes
____ 3 shoes
FRONT DIFF SETTING ________________
CLUTCH SHOES ____ not cut
____ trimmed
REAR DIFF SETTING _________________
CLUTCH SPRINGS ____STD
TUNED PIPE _______________________
GLOW PLUG TYPE __________________
____ other
____ (oz./gm)
TRACK CONDITIONS
RACE COMMENTS
SURFACE ____smooth
MAIN ____
TRACTION ____low
____bumpy
____medium
COMPOSITION ____concrete
____high
____asphalt
____carpet
specify: ______________________________________________________
FINISH ____
QUALIFYING POS. ____
NOTES ____________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
CAR COMMENTS
NOTES _____________________________________________________
NOTES
___________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________
Driver _______________________________________________________
Track / City ___________________________________________________
BLANK SETUP, VER. 2
AUG. 2004
Event ___________________________________
Date ______________
Ver. 2
SETUP SHEET for the Team Associated
FRONT SUSPENSION
CASTER ____6°
____12°
FRONT SHOCKS
____9°
BODY
____ threaded
____ other
ANTI-ROLL BAR
____ none
____ 3960 kit
____ 1717 front blade kit
____ blade setting
CAMBER ______°
SPRING (color)
__________________
TOE-IN ______°
ACKERMAN
____ STD (3857 ball ends)
____ opt. (6270 ball ends)
PISTONS #____
DRIVESHAFTS
____ MIP
____ other
REAR SUSPENSION
CAMBER ______°
TOE-IN ______°
DROOP ______
ARM MOUNTING
____ inner hole
____outer hole
SHAFTS
____ unobtainium
____ STD
REAR SHOCKS
ANTI-ROLL BAR
____ none
____ 3960 kit
BODY ____ threaded
DRIVESHAFTS
____ MIP
____ other
OIL ____ wt
OTHER
CAMBER LINK
____ inner hole
____ outer hole
OIL ____ wt
DROOP ______
BUMP STEER SPACERS ______”
TOWER MOUNTING
____ inner hole
____middle hole
____outer hole
____ other
SPRING (color) _______________
TOWER MOUNTING
____ inner hole
____ middle hole
____ outer hole
PISTONS #____
CAMBER LINK
____ upper hole
____ middle hole
____ lower hole
SHAFTS
____ unobtainium
____ STD
ARM MOUNTING
____ upper hole
____ lower hole
WASHERS
____ #
____ size
FUEL BRAND __________________________
BODY ______________________________
FRONT TIRES __________________________
NITRO _____ 20%
RADIO ______________________________
FRONT INSERTS _______________________
ENGINE BRAND ________________________
ST. SERVO _________________________
FRONT WHEELS _______________________
_____ pull start
THR. SERVO ________________________
REAR TIRES ___________________________
_____ .12
REAR INSERTS ________________________
CARB _____ rotary
REAR WHEELS ________________________
CARB RESTRICTOR _____ none
TIRE ADDITIVE ________________________
____none
ONE-WAY ____ none
____ front
CLUTCH ____ 2 shoes
SOLID AXLE ____front
____rear
CLUTCH SHOES ____ not cut
____ cut
CLUTCH SPRINGS ____STD
____ other
TRACK WIDTH
____ STD (gauge)
WEIGHTS
____ none
____ (in./mm)
_______%
_____ non pull start
_____ .15
GEAR DIFF ____front
ENG. TEMP. _____ °
_____ slide valve
_____”
____rear
GEAR DIFF GREASE
____wt. front
____wt. rear
____ (oz./gm)
1st GEAR PINION / SPUR ____ / ____
2nd GEAR PINION / SPUR ____ / ____
Single Speed: PINION / SPUR _____ / _____
____ 3 shoes
GLOW PLUG TYPE ___________________
TUNED PIPE _________________________
TRACK CONDITIONS
RACE COMMENTS
SURFACE ____smooth
MAIN ____
TRACTION ____low
____bumpy
____medium
____high
FINISH ____
QUALIFYING POS. ____
NOTES _____________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________
COMPOSITION ____concrete
____asphalt
____carpet
specify:
_________________________________________________________
CAR COMMENTS
NOTES
________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________
NOTES _____________________________________________________
H O W T O C U T T H E C R A N K S H A FT
S o m e e n g in e s h a v e lo n g c r a n k s h a f t s w h ic h m u s t b e c u t s h o r t e r t o f it in A s s o c ia t e d 's n it r o k it s ,
s u c h a s th e R C 1 0 G T a n d N itr o T C 3 . T h e s e in s tr u c tio n s , o r ig in a lly fo u n d in th e G T in s tr u c tio n
m a n u a l, w ill d ir e c t y o u s te p - b y - s te p h o w to c u t th e c r a n k s h a ft s a fe ly .
Ite m s n e e d e d
D r e m e l© to o l.
F ib e r r e in fo r c e d
s a fe ty , w e re c o m
n o t th e c u to ff s to
c a u s e in ju r y .
S a fe ty g la s s e s o
c u to ff w h e e l. W A R N IN G ! F o r y o u r o w n
m e n d u s in g o n ly th e fib e r r e in fo r c e d w h e e ls ,
n e s . T h e c u to ff s to n e s c a n s h a tte r a n d
D re m e l
r g o g g le s .
F ib e r r e in fo r c e d
c u to ff w h e e l
In s ta ll th e fib e r r e in fo r c e d c u to ff w h e e l o n th e D r e m e l to o l
a n d p u t o n y o u r s a fe ty g la s s e s .
O n
# 7 6
fly w
N o w
fro m
th e g a s e n g in e
1 8 c o lle t, a n d y
h e e l w ill fit o v e
in s ta ll th e # 7 6
th e fly w h e e l.
in s ta ll o n
o u r # 7 6 1
r th e c o lle
2 0 c u to ff
e # 7
0 o r
t (th
n u t
6 1
# 7
e y
s o
8 o r
6 1 2
a re
th e
# 7 6 1
fly w h
a ta p
th re a
7 s p
e e l.
e re d
d e d
a c
T h
w
e n
e r, o n e
e
e d g e fit) .
d is a w a y
7 6 1 7 P ic c o s p a c e r
( g o ld c o lo r )
M a r k th e e n d o f th e c u to ff n u t w h e r e y o u a r e g o in g to c u t th e
c r a n k , th e n r e m o v e th e c u to ff n u t a n d fly w h e e l.
P la c e th
c ra n k s h
c ra n k s h
tig h t a r o
g o in g in
T a k e y
w ith y o
w o rk w
g o g g le
a re a w
p re v e n
e e n g in e in s id e
a ft th ro u g h th e p
a ft p ro tru d e s th r
u n d th e s e p a rts
to th e e n g in e .
o u r tim
u r D re
ith a p
s ! M a k
a y fro m
t in ju r y
e to d o
m e l to o
o w e r to
e s u re
th e D
.
a p la s tic
la s tic b a
o u g h th e
to p re v e
th is s
l. D e b
o l w ith
a ll p a r
re m e l
te p . C
u r th e
o u t w
ts o f y
to o l a
b a g
g u n
b a g
n t m
. P u s h th
til th e e n
. M a k e s
e ta l s h a v
u t th e
e n d . W
e a r in g
o u r b o
n d th e
c ra
A
s a
d y
c u
e e
d o
u re
in g
n d o f th e
f th e
th e h o le is
s fro m
n k s h a ft a t th e
R N IN G ! N e v e
fe ty g la s s e s o
a n d a n y c lo th
ttin g a r e a to
r
m a rk
r
in g
s to c k P ic c o c o lle t
( c o m e s w ith e n g in e )
7 6 1 8 s p a c e r
( s ilv e r c o lo r )
fly w h e e l
7 6 1 0 ( n o n p u ll s ta r t)
7 6 1 2 ( p u ll s ta r t)
7 6 1 8 c o lle t
7 6 2 0 c u to ff n u t
A fte r y o u h a
s h a v in g s fr o
b a g . T a k e th
th re a d o n to
in to th e p la s
c ra n k s h a ft s
fro m th e to p
v e c u t th e c ra n k s h a ft, c
m th e p a rt. T h e n re m o v
e # 7 6 0 3 c lu tc h n u t a n d
th e c r a n k s h a ft e a s ily . If
tic b a g to p r o te c t it fr o m
tic k in g o u t, a n d file o r g
o f th e fir s t th r e a d s . D o
le a n o ff a
e th e e n g
s e e if th e
n o t, th e n
m e ta l s h
r in d th e c
n o t d a m a
ll th e m
in e fr o
c lu tc h
p u t y o
a v in g s
ra n k s h
g e th e
e ta l
m th e
n u t w ill
u r e n g in e
, w ith th e
a ft a little
th re a d s .
R e in s ta ll y o u r fly w h e e l a n d c lu tc h n u t a d a p te r .
T E A M A S S O C IA T E D
3 5 8 5 C a d illa c A v e .
C o s ta M e s a , C A 9 2 6 2 6
p h o n e :
(7 1 4 ) 8 5 0 -9 3 4 2
fa x :
(7 1 4 ) 8 5 0 -1 7 4 4
w e b s ite : h ttp ://w w w .T e a m A s s o c ia te d .c o m /

Complete Tunin gGuide: Nitro TC3

Transcription

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