Hair follicle

Transcription

Hair follicle

SHB50115 Diploma of Beauty Therapy
WRB20104
WRBCS201B – PROVIDE MANICURE AND PEDICURE SERVICES
SHBBHRS004 Provide hair reduction treatments using electrical currents
LEARNING MATERIAL
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Advise on beauty products and services
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1
History of electrolysis
The first recorded use of electricity for hair removal was by the American eye specialist Charles E. Michel in 1875 when
he used an electric current to treat a condition called trichiasis. This occurs when the eyelash grows in an abnormal way
and begins to irritate the eyeball. In such cases, the root of the hair follicle is destroyed and the eyelash then ceases to
grow, or at least grows at a much slower rate than previously. This is now known as the galvanic treatment method. The
use of electricity for hair removal continued throughout the early part of the 20th century.
More developments in the field of electrolysis followed, including the use of many needles and a different form of
electricity treatment which uses heat damage to destroy the hair follicle. Electrolysis has become a widely available
treatment in many beauty salons for the permanent removal of unwanted hair for both men and women. Currently,
needle-type electrolysis is the only method which can guarantee permanent hair removal and can be used on all areas
of the body and on all skin types. Laser treatments, although widely advertised as a method for hair removal, are still
only legally permitted to claim a permanent reduction in hair growth, not permanent removal.
The cause of unwanted hair growth.
Abnormal hair growth may be caused by heredity factors, changes in hormonal levels and some illness and medications
and is seen as excessive growth or dark hair in unwanted areas. Since many factors influence hair growth, the client may
need to return for several electrolysis visits. This varies from person to person. Most clients return once a week or every
other week, as necessary. Treatments may last between 15 minutes to one hour.
Electrolysis is a useful technique for treating small areas quickly and efficiently, giving good and usually permanent
results. It is mostly used to remove unwanted facial hair in women. It is also used on the legs, back and bikini line.
Electrolysis may also be used for the treatment of thread veins and skin tags.
In this unit you will be learning electrolysis treatments for the removal of hair.
Provide hair reductions treatments using electrical currents
2
Structure of the hair
The hair follicle is a bottle shaped indentation in the skin which assists in the formation and growth of the hair. The
follicle starts on the surface of the skin with a funnel shaped opening and passes into the skin through the epidermis
and ends deep in the dermis layer, very close to the subcutaneous layer of the skin. There are billions of follicles all over
the body and thousands on the scalp. The hair follicles are formed before birth.
Lanugo hair.
It is the covering of hair that is present
before and sometimes at birth. It is baby fine
hair over the entire skin of the baby.
Vellus hair.
It is the fine, downy soft hair which covers
most of the body where body hair grows.
Terminal hair.
It is the long soft hair found on the scalp. The
hair is also found on the beards and
moustaches of males, legs and underarms of
both males and females. There are two types
of terminal hair – asexual hair and sexual
hair.
Three types of human hair
 These hairs have no medulla
 They are often un-pigmented and are often difficult to see
 They have no arrector pilli muscle and do not possess a sebaceous
gland
 The hairs are very short
 Their function is to aid in efficient evaporation of perspiration
 Hair has no colour
 Has no medulla, with a shallow follicle and small blood supply
 Usually up to 2cm long
 These hairs grow in groups of 2-5 follicles
 This hair contains pigment
 Each hair has a sebaceous gland
 Each hair possess an arrector pili muscle
 The hair can thin out with age
 Asexual hair – eyebrows, lashes and hair on the head
 Sexual hair – pubic area, underarms, legs, arms, face, chest,
abdomen, back and shoulders. These are vellus hairs at birth which
change to terminal hair under hormonal influence
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Hair follicle
At the hair follicle base it widens out to form a bulb. At the base of this bulb, there is a small conical shaped lump which
is called the hair papilla. The papilla consists of very small blood capillaries which bring nourishment to the cells which
eventually become hair. The hair follicle has three layers.
Inner root sheath.
This is the outer layer of the skin, the epidermis, which has been pushed down to create the hair follicle. It is a stiff wall
that is continuous with the epidermis layer. The inner root sheath has no nerve endings and no blood supply except in
the germinative layer. This is why when you pull out a hair there is very little feeling and no bleeding.
Outer root sheath.
This is the second layer of the follicle and is
continuous with the dermis layer of the skin.
It is formed mainly of fibrous tissue and
contains blood vessels and minute nerve
endings.
Structure of hair follicle
Cuticle layer.
The third layer of the follicle is called the
cuticle. The cells of the cuticle are attached to
the inner root sheath and grow inwards and
downwards. Their function is to hold the hair
firmly in place in the follicle.
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Arrector pili muscle
The arrector pili muscle is attached to the hair follicle and to the underpart of the epidermis. It helps to keep the follicle
in place. It is an involuntary muscle in that it moves and contracts by nerve control. When it contracts, the follicle is
dragged into an upright position giving the appearance of hair standing on end. When this occurs the mouth of the
follicle is made to push out slightly and creates what we know as ‘goose bumps’.
Sebaceous gland.
The follicle has the sebaceous gland attached to it. This gland opens into the interior of the follicle where the hair shaft
is found. Sebaceous glands (oil glands) are tiny sac shaped organs which produce and secrete sebum (skin’s oil) to
lubricate the skin and make the hair look shiny. If the activity of this gland is altered in any way the result can be very
dry skin and hair or very oily skin and hair. The amount of oil produced changes with age being controlled by hormones.
Teenagers have the greatest oil production.
Cross section of the hair
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How hair grows
Hair is an appendage of the skin. It emerges from the skin either individually or in groups, sharing a common follicle
opening. Hair covers the entire body except for the soles of the feet and the palms of the hand. Hair grows on an
average 1 to 1.5 cm per month and faster in summer than in winter.
The papilla brings in nourishment required to continually produce new cells which eventually become hair.
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Cycle of hair growth
Humans do not regularly shed a lot of hair like animals do. Each individual hair goes through a cycle of growth, loss and
usually replacement.
The three cycles of hair growth are called;
•Anagen – first stage.
•Catagen – second stage.
•Telogen – third stage.
Stage 1 – Anagen.
This is the beginning of the hair growth cycle.
Active growth may last between 2 and 6 years
with an average of 4 years. Anagen hair can be
between 2mm to 7mm below the surface.
Permanent hair removal is most successful when
performed on hairs in this stage.
During the anagen stage;
•The follicle is at its full height.
•The papilla and bulb are clearly defined.
•Blood is supplied to the follicle.
•Certain cells require pigment.
The three stages of hair growth
Anagen stage
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Hair growth cycle
Stage 2 – Catagen.
At the end of the growing phase, changes occur in the follicle.
•The hair stops growing and becomes detached from the base of the follicle, forming a
club hair.
•The bulb rises to approximately the level of the sebaceous gland.
•The hair bulb begins to break down and the follicle begins to shrink.
•A narrow section of the outer root sheath remains in contact with a group of cells
which form the papilla.
•No new cells are formed in the papilla.
•1% of the hair is in the catagen stage at any one time.
•Catagen lasts approximately 2-3 weeks.
Catagen stage
Stage 3 – Telogen.
This is the resting stage for the papilla and the follicle. The club shaped hair moves up
the follicle. Approximately 90% of the follicles enter this telogen stage at any one
time.
•The follicle has shrunk upwards to about one half or one third of the length of the
anagen follicle and the hair has fallen out.
•An arrow like section left at the base remains in contact with the cells of the papilla.
•The papilla is just a ball of cells now outside the follicle.
•The follicle begins to grow downwards again.
•A new hair bulb develops around the original papilla area.
•The new hair begins to grow when the follicle has reached its full length.
•If the old hair is still present, then the new hair will push it out.
Telogen stage
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Melanin cells – colour of hair
Special cells called melanocytes produce melanin which is the natural pigment (colour) in the hair. Melanin cells can be
brown, black, red or yellow and are found in the germinative layer of the epidermis of the skin. All hair is made up by a
mixture of these natural pigments. The hair’s natural colour (melanin) is found in the cortex layer of the hair. All
pigments have a chemical structure which absorbs or reflects some part or parts of the colour spectrum. When the
melanoyctes do not produce any melanin the hair is white.
Hair colour is the result of;
•The chemical nature of the pigment.
•The amount of pigment found within the cortex.
•The distribution of the colour pigment.
The hair’s natural pigments are;
•Eumelanin-black/brown.
•Pheomelanin- gold/yellow.
•Tricosiderin -red/copper.
The type of melanin and its distribution determines whether the hair is black, brown, red or blonde. Black hair contains
mainly black pigments with a small amount of brown, red and yellow pigment.
Brown hair contains mainly brown pigments, with a small amount of black, red and yellow pigments. Blonde hair
contains mainly yellow pigments, with a small amount of brown, and a tiny amount of black and red pigments.
Where the melanin is found in the hair shaft also influences the hair colour. The closer the melanin is to the surface of
the hair, the darker is the hair colour. The distribution of colour molecules, the density of the hair shaft and the
condition of the cuticle layer, all contribute to subtle changes in hair colour.
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Hair follicle variations
Hair follicles can be single or compound. A single follicle contains one hair. A pili-multigemini has two hairs in one
follicle. Each hair has its own inner root sheath and dermal papilla. Several hairs sharing the same exit canal is called a
pilo-sebaceous. Each follicle may be in a different growth stage meaning that some will not be visible.
An ingrown hair is a hair that curls back or grows sideways into the skin. Symptoms include rash, itching skin, hair which
remains in spite of shaving and infection and pus collecting under skin. It is common in male beard lines.
Factors that affect hair growth.
The endocrine system influences the hair growth circle. The endocrine system is a collection
of glands that produce hormones that regulate the body’s growth, metabolism, sexual
functions and development and also hair growth. The hormones are released into the
bloodstream and are transported to tissues and organs throughout the body. Influences on
the endocrine system that produce unwanted hair growth may be disease, medication and
surgery. Normal endocrine conditions are affected by puberty, pregnancy and menopause.
Ingrown hairs
Hair is extremely sensitive to changes in the body such as general health and age. It is affected by adequate intake of
food which supply glucose and protein for cell production. Hair grows faster in warmer weather, during sleep and
between the ages of 16 to 24. Certain hormones have an impact on hair growth. The male sex hormones, androgens,
cause the increased growth of hair on the upper lip, chin, thighs, chest and the pubic area in males and females at the
commencement of puberty. Pollution, radiation, stress and some medications have an adverse affect on hair growth.
Major illness, surgery, loss of blood, stress, some drugs and medical treatments such as radiation for cancer patients
alters normal hair growth.
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Causes of excessive hair growth
There are two types of excess hair growth; Hypertrichosis and Hirsutism. Both are the result of disturbances of the hair
growth cycle.
Hypertrichosis appears in males and females and can be all over the body or in small patches. It can be present at birth
or develop in later life. Anorexia nervosa, Bulimia and Hypothyroidism sometimes cause hypertrichosis. Anorexia
nervosa and Bulimia causes fine, dark hair to appear on the face, trunk and arms while hypothyroidism causes fine,
downy soft hair which covers most of the body where body hair grows.
Hirsutism is the appearance of a male hair pattern growth in women. It can be excessive hair where a beard or
moustache would be on men. Symptoms are likely to include the excessive growth of thick, dark, scraggly looking hair
on the face, chest, areola, inner thigh, upper and lower back, the buttocks, linea alba and the genitalia. It varies with
ethnic background. Common endogenous causes are polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) and idiopathic hirsutism. It is
sometimes caused by excess androgens from pituitary, adrenal or ovarian systems in the body. Cushings syndrome may
also cause excessive hair growth.
Referring client to medical practitioner.
If you suspect that the client has unusual hair growth patterns that may be related to underlying systemic disorders
then you need to refer the client to a medical practitioner. If this is the case, ensure that the client returns with a letter
from their doctor giving permission for electrolysis treatment to proceed before you commence any treatments.
Medical permission must be obtained before performing any hair removal on a mole or birthmark.
Wounds.
Wound and skin infections represent the invasion of tissues by one or more species of microorganisms. This infection
triggers the body’s immune system, causes inflammation and tissue damage and slows the healing process. Many
infections remain confined to a small area, such as an infected scratch or hair follicle and usually resolve on their
own. Others may persist and, if untreated, increase in severity and spread further and deeper into the body. Some
infections spread to other organs or cause septicaemia.
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HEREDITARY INFLUENCE ON HAIR GROWTH
Cultural type
Hair growth patterns
Caucasian European
Mainly have straight follicles unless distorted due to continual waxing or tweezing
African
Tightly curled hair with curved follicles. Usually have little facial hair and mainly
suffer from ingrown hairs. Electrolysis is not recommended on dark skins due to the
possibility of scarring of the follicle however this will depend on the darkness of the
skin colour
Eastern Asian
Have very little face and body hair
Middle Eastern and Asian Indian Have a lot of face and body hair. The follicle is usually straight
Topical influences on hair growth.
Areas of increased blood supply can stimulate hair growth. Tweezing and waxing, which tears out the hair, stimulates
blood supply causing a stronger hair to grow and can distort the follicle. The ultraviolet from the sun affects the hair
cuticle by breaking down the keratin protein of the hair. Hairdryers and other heated appliances, used too hot, can
cause moisture in the hair to boil with tiny bubble of steam forming inside the softened hair shaft. Both sunlight and
heated appliances weaken the hair often causing breakage.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF ELECTROLYSIS
ADVANTAGES
DISADVANTAGES
Recognised as a permanent hair removal treatment
Clients cannot use many other forms of hair removal while
having electrolysis treatments
Is effective on all hair colours
May appear expensive for some clients
Is effective on all hair types
Can be painful for some clients
Can be performed on all parts of the body except for
Clients may need to commit to a series of treatments to gain
inside the nose, inner ear and any mucus membrane
a successful result
Method ensures precise removal on each hair
It is a slow methodical treatment which best suits small areas
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CONTRAINDICTIONS TO ELECTROLYSIS TREATMENTS – Do not proceed or seek medical approval
Bacterial, viral or fungal infections
Impetigo
Contagious skin diseases
Boils, carbuncles infections and skin trauma
Candidiasis
Acne
Rashes, bruising and lesions
Diabetes and vascular disease
Blood and skin thinning medications including Aspirin
Pigmentation disorders
Disorders of ageing skin
Sunburn and moles
Loss of skin sensation
Epileptics
Scar tissues and lesions
Dilated capillaries
Pregnancy
Pacemakers and implanted metal plates
Relevant medical history
Prone to bleeding
Puberty
Anorexia and Bulimia
Certain medications
Asthmatics
PRECAUTIONS
Menopause and premature ageing
Anaemia
Previous outcomes from hair removal treatments
Blood pressure problems
Scar tissue.
Keloid is a type of scaring caused by an increase of collagen fibres, resulting in an overgrowth of scar tissue. The raised
ridge will be smooth and shiny. A hypertrophic scar is a cutaneous condition characterised by deposits of excessive
amounts of collagen which gives rise to a raised scar, but not to the degree observed with keloids. Like keloids, they
form most often at the sites of pimples, body piercings, cuts and burns.
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Types of electrolysis methods
Electrolysis is the removal of unwanted hair through the means of a probe inserted into the hair follicle. There are three
different methods available on the market. It is essential that a therapist follows manufacturers’ operating instructions
for the machine they are using.
Galvanic electrolysis.
The galvanic method works by converting the AC current of electricity to direct current (DC). The current is conducted to
the client’s skin by a negative and a positive electrode. The negative electrode in the probe is inserted into the hair
follicle, while the positive electrode is wrapped in moistened material which is held by the client. When the probe is
inserted, the electricity coming down the probe causes the salt and water in the skin to be chemically altered. Salt,
water and electricity combine to produce a small amount of sodium hydroxide (lye) which destroys the base of the hair
root and follicle. This method is slow but effective with little reaction occurring on the surface of the skin.
Thermolysis.
The thermolysis method works by using a high frequency alternating current (AC) of electricity produced by an oscillator
to increase the AC frequency to millions of cycles per second. The current flows back and forth from the client’s body to
the machine. The alternating high frequency current passes down the probe which stimulates the water molecules in
the skin around the probe to vibrate, creating heat. The heat production begins at the probe tip first. Heat produced
then rises up into a pear shape towards the skin surface. This means that the deeper areas of the follicles receive more
heat and for a longer period of time than the portions of the follicle higher up.
Blend electrolysis.
The blend method combines high frequency and galvanic current that passes down the probe at the same time. The
high frequency current heats the sodium hydroxide (lye) produced by the galvanic current making it more caustic to the
hair follicle tissue. Damage to the hair root makes the tissue more porous, enabling the lye to diffuse easily and quickly.
This allows the destruction of the lower follicle, including the papilla, in the shortest time. The blend method is less
painful than the other two methods as the combination of high frequency and galvanic have a numbing effect with
deeper hairs being easier to remove.
14
Principles of electricity
Metallic bonding.
Metals consist of large atoms with one, two or three outer shell electrons and include gold, silver and copper. Each atom
shares these outer shell electrons allowing them to have access to a full outer shell. Metals are made up of positive ions
surrounded by a ‘sea’ of free moving outer shell electrons. Pure metals may be composed of the one type of atom, all
iron, all copper, all aluminium or all gold and all silver. They may also be a combination of different atoms (steel) being
referred to as alloys. Because the outer shell electrons move freely around the atoms it gives metals the ability to be
conductors of electricity. Not all metals are conductors. Metals that display extremely high resistance are called
insulators, being very poor conductors.
Conductors.
Conductors are metals which have very few electrons in their outer shell and share these between all the atoms in the
material. This allows these negatively charged particles to travel freely throughout the substance, meaning they can
easily carry (conduct) electrical currents. This is why copper is used extensively in electrical wiring as a conductor.
Insulators.
Insulators are materials that have their outer shell electrons fixed in place by covalent bonds which means that the
charge cannot move throughout the substance. Some common insulators are plastic, rubber and glass. Plastic is used as
a protective coating around the conducting wires.
Resistors.
Electrical wires are produced from metals that have low resistance through which the flow of electricity is reduced but
not halted. Materials that have high resistance produce low electron flow. Resistance is good for without it we could not
convert electrical energy into other forms of energy. Resistance is measured in the unit of ohm Ώ. Screwdriver handles
are coloured according to their degree of insulation. The higher the rating, the higher the voltage that can be tolerated
before some conductions will occur.
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Static electricity.
Static electricity may occur when two materials are rubbed together allowing the electrons to become dislodged from
one material and transferred to another. This means that one material will have a greater attraction of electrons than
the other giving an overall negative charge. The other material, which has lost the electrons will have an overall positive
charge. This build up is called static electricity. Rubbing the materials together doesn’t make the charge, it simply
separates negative and positive charges that exist within the materials. Static electricity builds up on all sorts of things.
Most dust particles carry an electrical charge and therefore can be attracted to one another. The charged dust particles
are attracted and cling to any surface that develops a charge. This can be electrical equipment, which directly carries
electric current or a surface subjected to frictional forces, which result in a static electricity build-up.
Static electricity hazards in the salon.
•Sparks are unpleasant. Fingertip discharge will give a large, unpleasant spark.
•Sparks can cause a mixture of flammable gas and air to ignite. Cleaning materials used in the salon such as methylated
spirits and acetone are volatile and will burn if sparks are generated in their vicinity.
•Electrostatic discharges can damage micro-electronic equipment.
•Electrostatic discharges make cleaning glass surfaces difficult.
•Electrostatic discharges attract dust particles requiring general cleaning to occur more often.
Prevention.
•Avoid having synthetic carpet in the salon or apply antistatic solution sprays to reduce static.
•Wear rubber soled shoes. Within the retail industry you will often sees cash register operators standing on rubber
matting to reduce the possibility of static electricity.
•Touch something metal before touching a client.
•Place sensitive electronic equipment on an anti-static mat and ensure equipment is properly earthed.
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Charge.
All matter is made up of atoms and molecules containing charged particles called protons and electrons. The charge on
the protons is positive while the charge on the electrons is negative. These charges are of equal if opposite in strength.
Uncharged matter consists of equal numbers of protons and electrons and is electrically neutral. The unit to measure
charge is called a coulomb (C). Once an object becomes charged it will exert a force called an electric field. The larger
the charge, the stronger the force and the larger the electric field.
When an object that has built up a static charge touches a metal fitting, it ‘discharges’ and is said to have been earthed.
Many appliances are earthed which removes any accumulated charge from the equipment.
The ability to attract electrons is called electrical potential. Objects that have a negative charge repel electrons and are
described as having high electrical potential. Objects that have a positive charge attract electrons and are described as
having low electrical potential.
Volt.
Between an object with high potential and one with low potential there exists a potential difference called a volt (V).
Potential difference produces the electromotive force (EMF) to push the electrons in one direction. It is measured by a
voltmeter. Electrical flow only occurs when there is a potential difference between the two objects. An object that is
earthed has a zero potential.
Energy.
Energy is the capacity to make something work. Energy cannot be destroyed or created. It is transferred from one
object to another and transformed from one form into another form. Electrical energy is energy stored in a difference in
charge or carried in an electric current. Examples can be static electricity or power lines that carry electricity from
power stations.
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Electric current.
The flow of negatively charged electrons is known as an electric current. The flow of electricity can only occur if there is;
•A source of electrical energy being an external power supply or a battery.
•A conductor containing charged electrons which move through the conductor.
•A potential difference along the conductor, measured in volts.
•A closed circuit.
Electrons will flow from the negative toward the positive potential. The flow of electrons (current) is measured in
amperes (A).
Heat energy.
Appliances that transform electrical energy into heat energy do so by using a resistor. All conductors have some
resistance to the flow of electricity, which is felt when appliances ‘get hot’ as the current passes through it. Human skin
acts as a resistor because it resits the passage of electricity through it. The application of electricity to the skin will
result in a build up of heat. This warming effect can be used to increase blood circulation in the skin. Wet skin has less
resistance than dry skin.
Wires of known resistance are used to make the elements of infrared lamps so that just the right amount of electrical
energy is transformed into heat. The filament in an incandescent light globe becomes white hot when a suitable current
is passed through it. A vapourzone uses a heating element to heat the water and produce steam.
Light energy environmental awareness.
•Incandescent globes use a lot of energy to create light.
•Fluorescent tubes are more efficient than incandescent globes.
•Halogen and krypton globes are an economical alternative to incandescent globes being 10 to 20% more energy
efficient.
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Circuits.
A circuit consists of a number of electrical components connected together to form a conducting path and fulfilling a
desired function such as providing light. The components form a continuous closed path, known as a closed circuit,
through which a current can circulate. When the circuit is broken, as with a switch, it is called an open circuit. When
the switch is closed the electrical piece of equipment is on. Lighting circuits are designed to supply a maximum current
of 8 amps. Power circuits are designed to supply a maximum current of 15 amps.
Mains electricity.
Mains electricity is generated by power stations and supplied via electricity cables. The current is called A.C. (alternate
current) and is pulled backwards and forwards through the circuit many times per second. A.C. current is called
frequency and is measured in hertz (Hz). Power in Australia is 240 V A.C. at 50 Hz.
D.C. (direct current) is a one way current that batteries and some generators produce. There is a steady flow of current
in one direction and is very convenient for extra low voltage electronic circuits and portable electrical devices such as
torches. Transformers are devices that change the voltage. Rectifiers convert A.C. current into D.C. when these devices
are plugged into power. Some transformers contain rectifiers.
A.C. wiring.
•The live wire fluctuates between negative and positive, making the current flow backwards and forwards throughout
the circuit at 50 Hz. The on and off switch is connected to a live wire socket.
•The neutral wire is the wire that earths the electricity by connecting it to a metal plate buried in the ground. All
buildings contain this metal earth plate. Because of this earthing, the current passes through the wire and it remains
at zero potential.
•The earth wire is a safety wire that connects the metal components of the appliance to earth and prevents it
becoming live if a fault develops.
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Three pin plug.
The three pin plug is commonly used in Australia although some equipment has only two pins. Two pin plugs are double
insulated having a plastic enclosure and do not need to be earthed. Wire colours are;
•Live = brown.
•Neutral = blue.
•Earth = yellow and green or just green.
Ohm’s law states that the intensity of a current depends on both the potential difference (volts) and the resistance to
the current ohms.
Short circuits.
A low resistance path that bypasses the load is called a short circuit. They usually occur when there is a failure of the
insulation around the wires conducting electricity to isolate that current to the conduction wire. Causes may be;
•Deterioration due to age or when wires become moist.
•Gnawing by insects or rodents.
•Incorrect wiring so that bare wires are exposed or touching each other.
•Wear around the plug when the socket is pulled out by the cord.
For safety, fuses and circuit breakers should be installed in the meter box to prevent short circuit damage.
Overloaded circuits.
All wiring should be in parallel. As more loads are placed in a parallel circuit, more appliances being switched on, the
current increases. When the current exceeds its limits (8 amps for lights and 15 amps for power) an overload occurs.
The maximum current for one power point is 10 amps. Most power boards include an overload cut out switch which
cuts off the power if it exceeds 10 amps. This is why it is important not to have too many appliances running off the one
power board. Fuses and circuit breakers help to prevent overloaded circuits.
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Electrical safety devices.
•A fuse contains a wire that melts if the current for which it is rated is exceeded. Fuses used for dedicated circuits set
up solely for appliances that draw a high current (air conditioners), are usually enclosed cylinders that must be totally
replaced when they ‘blow’. The fuses for power and lighting in a salon fuse box consists of a ceramic holder with fuse
wire running through it. This wire is replaceable.
•Circuit breakers are often used instead of fuses which use heat from an overload to ‘trip’ a switch. They also contain a
coil that measures the amount of current passing through. Circuit breakers can be reset after ‘tripping’.
•Earth leakage circuit breakers known as safety switches. These are devices designed to protect against the severe
effects of an electric shock. They detect any difference between the current leaving the power station and that
returning. No leakage of current from the circuit means that both values are the same. Electrocution occurs when
current passes from the circuit into a person so the current returning to the power station is reduced. The earth
leakage circuit breaker will switch off the current in less than 30 milliseconds if an earth leakage of more than 30mA
occurs. It does not prevent an electric shock but the duration of the shock is dramatically reduced.
•Surge protectors are devices designed to protect sensitive electronic equipment from a sudden voltage increase.
Electrical energy.
Electrical power is the rate of conversion of electrical energy into other forms of energy. It is measured in joules (J) and
time in seconds (S), power is measured in joules per second or watts (W). The unit used for the measurement of power
is the watt (W). A kilowatt (kW) is equal to 1000 watt. Electrical appliances should be labelled with the voltage at which
it has been set to operate (240V in Australia) and its power of consumption in watts.
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Electrical safety in the salon
Electric shocks happen when a person becomes part of an electrical circuit and the current flows through their body.
Incidents with electricity are usually caused by a lack of experience, training or supervision, broken equipment or
dangerous work conditions. It is the employer's responsibility to make sure electrical equipment is in good working
order and regularly checked.
What to look out for.
•Frayed or broken electrical cords.
•Very long leads.
•Overheating machines.
•Over loaded power boards.
•Water around plugs and electrical equipment.
An electric shock can cause
tissue damage under the skin
Staying safe.
•Always leave repairs to the experts.
•Use equipment properly. Check instructions and follow them.
•Report any faults straight away.
•Never touch electrical equipment with wet hands.
•Regularly check and clean the equipment that you use.
•Switch off appliances at the power point before you pull out the plug. Electrical equipment can still partially operate
without being plugged in due to stored energy. When you turn off the main power supply, just leave the equipment
switched on for a while to release the stored energy.
•Be careful of static charges as they can accumulate and jump out as an arc causing a fire.
•Keep electric leads tidy and away from furniture that can damage them.
•Report any breakdowns or faulty equipment to your boss.
•Salons should have residual current devices (safety switches) installed to reduce the risk of electric shock and
electrocution.
22
Electrolysis machines
There are many types of machines available. There are machines that require manual current adjustment and release
and ones that are computerised being pre-programmed with the hair strength to dictate the current strength and
release. The probe holder has a cap that can be unscrewed for cleaning purposes. The current flowing through the
probe holder will be released to the probe by either depressing a finger button or a foot pedal. The foot pedal current
is controlled by depressing the pedal, or a timer may be used. It is necessary to maintain regular checks of the functions
of both the finger button and foot pedal for safety reasons.
The heating pattern during electrolysis is affected by;
•Probe diameter.
•Quality of probe surface.
•Probe depth.
•Current duration.
•Current intensity.
•Correct and accurate insertion.
A tear drop heating pattern should be created when conducting permanent hair
removal where there is moisture. It is necessary to ensure maximum damage to the
appropriate part of the follicle without the risk of damage spreading up onto the skin’s
surface.
An electrolysis machine
Tweezers.
Medical grade tweezers are required and they need to be sterilised and cleaned after use on a client. The choice of
shape depends on the preference of the operator. Some tweezes have slanted tips, some have sharp tips and others
have curved tips. Sharp tips allow for easy gripping of the hair after the current has been applied while curved tips are
good for releasing ingrown hairs.
23
Probes
Single use probes are contained within a sterile pack and must be opened in front of the client just before treatment
commences. One probe may be used to remove as many hairs as necessary in the one treatment session. The probe
should be able to enter and slide down the hair follicle with the current flowing to the tip of the probe. Used probes
must be disposed of immediately after use into an Australian Standard Approved sharps container according to The
Health and Skin Penetration regulations. There are various brands, types, sizes and lengths of probes with each having
a specific use.
The five types of probes are;
•One piece tapered – this has the least risk of breaking or separating. It has a tapered tip ensuring less risk of skin
damage. The two shank sizes are F & K. The holder grips the shank of the probe.
•Two piece straight and two piece tapered – these both have more flexibility, allowing for the probe to bend when
inserted correctly.
•Insulated – these only have 6mm exposed with the rest covered in a polymer coating. This probe is good for sensitive
skin as it reduces skin reactions.
•24 carat gold plated – this probe has 24 carat gold bonding on the entire probe surface. It is good for people who are
sensitive to stainless steel and also good for treating broken capillaries.
Probe sizes range from .002, .003, .004, .005 and .006, being 2 to 6 thousandths of an inch.
Probe length can be short for shallow follicles while regular lengths are used for deep follicle treatments.
It is important to match the diameter size of hair so that the probe diameter at the tip fits the base of the follicle. A
probe with a too small a diameter creates too intense a current concentration which is more painful for the client. A
probe with a diameter too large will stretch the follicle wall which may result in dilated capillaries in the skin.
24
Direct current treatments use electrodes or probes in pairs
The electrodes for micro-current treatments are;
•Rollers, like those used in some galvanic machines.
•Rubber backed pads, similar to those used for EMS.
•Long metal probes, either joined together or separate.
The chemical reactions under each electrode are the same as for galvanic treatments and many micro-current machines.
Alternating current treatments.
Alternating current treatments have two main advantages over direct current in beauty therapy treatments.
•As the polarity of the electrodes alternate, the current changes direction, so there is no chemical build up and
therefore no risk of irritation or chemical skin burns.
•The resistance of the skin to medium and high frequency A.C. is easily overcome so controlled stimulation of nerve
cells and muscles with low intensity currents is possible. Low frequency A.C. (0-1000 Hz). Medium frequency A.C.
(1000-100,000 Hz).
Interferential treatment.
Two separate medium frequency currents with intersecting pathways are applied to the skin. Where the two current
pathways intersect, a zone of low frequency is created. The frequency of one current is kept constant, while the
second current is varied. Where the two currents intersect, their frequencies cancel each other out, leaving only the
difference between them.
25
Follicle shapes
Applying electrolysis treatments to curved follicles and ingrown hairs requires different techniques from electrolysis
treatments conducted on straight follicles. The degree of curl of the hair is greater than the follicle curvature in the
skin. This is due to the moistness found in the follicle. Once the hair has left the skin it begins to dry and curl. The lower
quarter of the follicle curves and this causes the flattening of the hair shaft. It is divided into three stages.
1. Curved hair follicle early stages.
The hair will be in the early stages of anagen with the emerging hair appearing with a pointed tip and will be almost
round and straight. Epilate as you would for a straight follicle.
2. Curve hair follicle second stage.
Depending on whether the hair has been cut, tweezed or shaved, the development of the hair could be anything from
late anagen to telogen. The hair will have a curved follicle. Insert the probe on the underside at the same angle as
neighbouring vellus hairs are emerging. Push past the tissue obstruction and continue down about half as much again.
When the hair is removed, check it for depth and use this as a guide for the next insertion.
3. Curved hair follicle third stage.
When the hairs are 6mm or longer, they will have a pronounced
curve. Take the probe or tweezers and flip the hair in its opposite
direction. The true direction of the insertion is the midway point
between the two positions. Move the hair to this middle position
and insert the probe.
Ingrown hairs.
These hair are usually found on areas where there is friction and
have to be dug out. If they are infected, free the end and cut short,
as tweezing tends to make the follicle heal shut and further trap the
hair. Once the follicle has healed it can be epilated.
Follicle shape determines the hair shape
Straight
Wavy
Curly
Very curly
26
Client treatment information
It is necessary to provide information to a client at the first consultation. You need to explain treatment procedures
advising the client what to expect.
CLIENT ELECTROLYSIS INFORMATION
How does electrolysis work?
An anaesthetic cream can be applied to the area to be treated to help reduce the discomfort. Your therapist then inserts a probe
into the hair follicle. You will not feel the probe going in and there is no discomfort associated with this. Once the probe is in the
hair follicle, your therapist delivers the electric current to the tip of the probe to destroy the cells around the hair follicle thus
destroying the hair growth area. The current used is extremely low and does not cause shocks or is in anyway harmful. This is the
part that can feel like a hot sting, similar to an insect sting for a few seconds. The hair is loosened and removed with tweezers.
Treatment sessions can last from 15 minutes to 1 hour depending upon the area treated and your tolerance to the discomfort of
the treatment. With consecutive treatments, the stinging sensation will decrease as you become desensitised and the hair
becomes weaker and needs less intensity. The same areas cannot be treated again to remove more hairs for 10-14 days after
treatment as time must be allowed for healing.
Repeat procedures
All hairs have differing cycles of growth and are not all visible on the surface of the skin at the same time. Also, hair removed using
electrolysis may not necessarily destroy the hair follicles’ capability of producing new hair. Therefore, it is necessary to have some
repeat treatments and your therapist will calculate how often you need them based on the area to be treated.
What happens after the treatment
Immediately following treatment, there may be a slight redness and/or swelling which usually disappears within a few hours.
Occasionally small scabs may occur. It is important to remember that scabs are a part of the normal healing process. If scabbing
does appear, you are advised not to pick them off, otherwise scarring may occur.
It is very important that you follow the advice of your therapist carefully after electrolysis to reduce the risk of complications. It is
recommended that you apply an antiseptic cream after treatment and do not expose the treated area to the sun without applying
a high factor sun block.
27
Initial client consultation procedures
1.
2.
Discuss client requirements for the treatment. What are their expectations?
Enquire about potential contraindications either physical, medical or bacterial conditions the client may have.
Have client sign and date client release form.
3. Inspect the area to be treated. This will determine how many treatments are required. Identify hair growth
patterns, length, diameter and colour of hair to be removed. These influence the probe size, current intensity and
duration of current release.
4. Discuss client’s previous methods of hair removal. Have they been shaving, using abrasive gloves, waxing, plucking
or using depilatory creams? How long since the client ceased temporary hair removal? This affects the number of
hairs visible as many hairs may be in different stages of hair growth. It also may have affected how the hair follicle
lies in the skin. Waxing and plucking can cause hair follicle distortion. Using depilatory creams over a period of
time will have caused the skin to thicken as a protection against the keratolytic action of the product. Shaving and
using abrasive gloves will have also thickened the skin. A thickened skin may impede skin probing in electrolysis.
5. Inspect client’s skin condition. Is there scarring or acne markings on the skin’s surface? If so, then the skin will
react in the same way with an electrolysis treatment. Advise the client of the need to conduct a patch test to
gauge skin responses prior to conducting a full procedure.
6. Explain hair growth and regrowth stages to the client. Use a chart to illustrate the anatomy of the hair follicle.
7. Explain treatment procedures, how the treatment works and what the expected results are.
8. Discuss appointment lengths, frequency of treatments and time required in-between treatments with client.
9. Discuss cost of treatments.
10. Describe possible discomfort that the client may experience during treatment and what the skin’s immediate
reaction is likely to be.
11. Discuss the aftercare that is required in-between treatments.
12. Complete details on client consultation card and have client sign their agreement to proceed.
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Equipment required for the treatment
All equipment and materials must be clean and sterilised according to OH&S and Skin Penetration regulations before
the client arrives. A relaxing atmosphere will have a calming affect on nervous clients. Good lighting is essential and if
necessary the therapist may need to wear specialised magnifying glasses. Ensure that there is enough room to move
easily around the treatment couch and still be able to reach the machine to adjust the controls.
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
Treatment couch with disposable paper sheeting
Stool , trolley and magnifying lamp
Client comfort pillows, sheet or blanket
Electrolysis machine
Tweezers, scissors, cotton wool, tissues, eye pads
Variety of types, sizes, lengths of single use probes
Sharps container
Disposable gloves for therapist
Lined waste bin
Skin preparation product
Treatment timer
Spare probe leads
Soothing products
Client consent form and consultation card
Antiseptic and sterilisation solutions
Clean dressing for wounds
Client discussions.
A number of these conditions listed above may be conducted if you begin at low levels on electrical intensity and
progress slowly. This is called modification. If you are unable to perform a treatment you need to tactfully explain
the reasons why to the client. Clients who do require medical attention can postpone the electrolysis treatment until
their condition has improved.
FORMATIVE 1. WATCH VIDEO ON THE EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR A TREATMENT.
29
Hygiene practices
Effective hygiene practices are essential in the salon to prevent cross contamination and secondary infection. Microorganisms are present and can be transferred through personal contact, by touch or by contact with the contaminated
instruments that have not been sterilised or sanitised correctly. Unhealthy work practices can create bacterial infections
plus increase the spread of viruses and fungal infections. Secondary infections cause the skin to become red, inflamed
and pus may be present. These can occur through injury to the client during the treatment or if the client already has an
open cut and bacteria enters the skin. Sterilisation and sanitisation procedures must be used to minimise or destroy the
harmful micro-organisms that can cause cross contamination.
Articles and Equipment used in Skin Penetration Procedures. Taken from the Public Health (Skin Penetration)
Regulation 2000.
•Equipment or items that may penetrate the skin must be sterilised and maintained in that condition.
•Items which have penetrated the skin and which are to be reused must be cleaned and sterilised and maintained in
that condition until used again. If such equipment cannot be cleaned and sterilised it must be appropriately disposed of
into a sharps container immediately after the procedure.
•Where equipment which is not capable of skin penetration has been used in a procedure or has been touched by
either the operator or client it must be cleaned and maintained in a clean, dry condition prior to it being used again. The
operator may also disinfect this equipment after cleaning but it is not a legal requirement.
•Items which are manufactured to be single use must only be used once and then disposed of. If this item is a 'sharp' it
must be disposed of in a sharps container.
•Any equipment which is used to penetrate the skin or which is capable of penetrating the skin must be sterilised and
maintained in a clean condition.
Normal skin responses to irritation and trauma.
The term rash is often used to refer to a wide variety of red skin eruptions. A rash is any inflammatory condition of the
skin. Scaly patches on the skin are produced by fungal, viral or bacterial infection. Skin trauma refers to cuts, burns,
sickness or other injury change to the physical condition of the skin or multiple layers of epithelial tissues.
30
Infection transmission
Contact transmission.
Contact is the most common mode of transmission and usually involves transmission by touch or via contact with blood
or body substances. Contact may be direct or indirect.
•Direct transmission occurs when infectious agents are transferred from one person to another — for example, a
patient’s blood entering a therapist’s body through an unprotected cut in the skin.
•Indirect transmission involves the transfer of an infectious agent through a contaminated intermediate object or
person. A therapist’s hands transmitting infectious agents after touching an infected body site on one patient and not
performing hand hygiene before touching another patient.
Infection control.
Infection control is the term used to describe efforts to prevent the spread of disease. The term for infection control is
‘efficacy’ which means ‘ability to produce results’. An efficacy label tells you what the disinfectant is effective against.
Sanitation.
Sanitation is the first level of infection control. Sanitation methods clean and reduce microbes on the surface but do not
kill microbes. An antiseptic is a product that can be applied to the skin to reduce microbes. An antibacterial liquid soap
can be used to wash hands.
Disinfection.
This is the second level of infection control. Disinfectants are chemical products used to destroy or kill bacteria and
some viruses (except bacterial spores). Always wear gloves when handling chemicals. Broad spectrum disinfectants,
formerly known as hospital-grade disinfectants, are a group of disinfectants that kill bacteria, viruses, fungi and
pseudomonas. These products are effective and quick-acting.
Sterilisation.
Sterilisation is the third level of infection control. It refers to any process that effectively kills or eliminates transmissible
agents such as fungi, bacteria, viruses and spores from a surface, equipment, article of food or medication, or biological
culture medium. Sterilisation can be achieved through application of heat, chemical, irradiation, high pressure or
filtration.
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Prevention of infections
It is essential that prior to any skin penetration service the therapist must thoroughly wash their hands and use
disposable single use gloves throughout the procedure. Immunity is a biological term that describes a state of having
sufficient biological defences to avoid infection, disease or other unwanted biological invasion.
Infection control after the procedure.
When removing the probe from its holder it should be done without touching the probe. The cap should be partially
unscrewed which loosens the grip of the holder on the probe. Remove the probe with tweezers and place immediately
into the sharps container.
Scrub and sterilise the cap and tweezers according to your State or Territory Health Department regulations. When
sanitising the probe holder, machine dials and magnifying lamp you need to wipe over with a surface alcohol wipe.
Control of bleeding during the procedure.
•Place a clean dressing on the wound and apply pressure to stop the bleeding.
•Place soiled probe into sharps container.
•Sanitise the soiled re-useable equipment correctly.
•Clean work benches with water and detergent using a disposable cloth.
•Place soiled dressing, cleaning cloth and therapist gloves into covered lined waste bin.
•Wash hands thoroughly.
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Poor therapist behaviour
Conducting an electrolysis service on a client is a very invasive treatment. Clients will often be apprehensive about the
discomfort they may feel and unsure of the expected results. A therapist’s behaviour has to be professional at all times.
POOR BEHAVIOUR BY THE THERAPIST COULD INCLUDE;
Lack of interest in the client’s welfare throughout the treatment
Being disorganised and leaving the treatment to gather equipment
Scratching the client’s skin
Spilling product over the client or getting product in the client’s eyes
Breathing onto the client’s face and having an unpleasant breath
Using heavy, rough or cold hands when touching the client
Gossiping, not concentrating or talking too much
Untidy and soiled clothing worn by therapist
Rushing the treatment and not making the client feel important
Occupational health and safety guidelines.
The following is a list of safety precautions that you must adhere to before and during the service.
•Closed shoes and rubber gloves must be worn by the therapist.
•Operator must observe good posture to reduce fatigue and risk of injury to themselves.
•Follow MSDS recommendations and manufacturers’ instructions for the equipment you are using.
•Follow infection control guidelines.
•Protective clothing should be provided for the client.
FORMATIVE 2. WATCH VIDEO ON PERFORMING AN ELECTROLYSIS TREATMENT.
33
Organisational policies and procedures
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Maintain client records.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions on equipment use and maintenance.
Report any incident involving micro-dermabrasion treatments.
Follow linen use and laundry procedures.
Follow personal hygiene and presentation standards of treatment area.
Follow waste and hazardous substance disposal.
Follow work health and safety requirements and operator’s legal and insurance liabilities and responsibilities in
regard to treatments.
Scope of practice.
• Refer clients to other practitioners when necessary.
• Advise clients of recognised contraindications to micro-dermabrasion treatment.
• Understand and follow the limitations to microdermabrasion treatments.
• Understand and follow the roles of nutritionist, dietician, complementary therapist and medical practitioner factors
that are likely to affect suitability of the micro-dermabrasion treatment for client.
Factors that affect treatment planning and client suitability for treatment.
- client finances.
- extent of area treated.
- follicle distribution.
- pain tolerance.
- skin healing.
- skin reactions.
34
Conducting a patch test
It is recommended that a patch test be conducted prior to commencing a full electrolysis treatment. This allows the
client to experience the procedure and allows the therapist to gauge the client’s tolerance levels. It also allows the
therapist to see the skin’s response and to understand the degree of difficulty in removing the hair. As only a few hairs
are being removed in a patch test, treatment time will only be five minutes. If no problems arise, the client can return
for the full procedure within 5 days of having the patch test. It is advisable to conduct the patch test on an areas that
will not be receiving a full treatment otherwise the client will have to wait 10 to 14 days for the skin to recover before a
full treatment can be performed.
The procedure.
•Prepare the couch and treatment trolley.
•Have client sign client release form and have client consultation card ready to be filled in with the patch test results.
•Have client remove jewellery as this may draw electric current and ask the client to lie down on the couch, providing a
pillow and/or blanket if required.
•Conduct a visual inspection of the area.
•Wash you hands and put on the disposable gloves.
•Electrolysis needs to be performed on clean skin so wipe the area being treated with a solution of 70% isopropyl or
ethyl alcohol. This is a health requirement in most states. A soothing lotion can be applied onto the skin to cool it down
if necessary. Check with product manufacturer’s instructions.
•A topical anaesthetic may be applied although follow manufacturer’s instructions. A client may have already taken a
pain killer medication. It is against the law for a therapist to supply this medication to the client.
•Select correct probe type and size for the selected area being treated and load correctly into the probe holder.
•Commence electrolysis treatment on area.
•Apply antiseptic cream or soothing lotion after hairs have been removed.
•Correctly place used probe into sharps container.
•Help client from couch and complete client consultation card with patch test results. Book client in for full treatment
•Clean equipment correctly and wash your hands.
35
Techniques for electrolysis treatments
Operating positions.
Therapist seating should be mobile to allow for easy movement around the client. The seat should be adjusted so that
the therapist’s elbow is at the level of the couch and not above the client.
Hand and arm positions.
It is important to have the hand and forearm in alignment in order to probe the hair follicle correctly. The holder needs
to be held in a firm, relaxed manner, not too tight. The skin should be held gently but firmly with both hands stretching
the skin. This will open the follicle mouth. The probe holder should be held in the same manner as if you were holding a
pen. The tweezers should be held in the non-working hand with this hand removing the hair.
Probing.
Hair emerges from the follicle at an angle. The probe must be inserted into the hair follicle at the exact angle of the hair
that is being treated. It is inserted underneath and parallel to the hair. If the hair is curly, disregard the curl and take the
angle from where the hair emerges from the skin. Always observe the direction of growth. Probe size should be chosen
according to diameter of hair and follicle.
As a general rule, coarse hairs have deeper follicles than fine hairs. Observe the depth of a number of hairs that you
have removed. Hold the hair with tweezers and measure it by placing the blub against the tip of the probe. The distance
from the bulb to the point on the hair will tell you the depth of the follicle. There will be variations in the depth
depending on what stage of growth the hair is at when it is being treated. CAUTION. If you probe too deeply, or if the
probe is too long, it may pierce the base of the hair follicle. If this happens you will see blood appear from the opening
of the follicle.
36
Factors affecting treatment outcomes of hair removal using electrical equipment
- Accurate probing being duration, angle and depth.
- Causes of skin damage.
- Client pain tolerance.
- Current intensity, duration and method.
- Needle or probe size selection.
- Post treatment equipment options.
- Properties and use of electrical energy, electrostatics and electrical current in permanent hair removal.
- Safe practices and management.
- Safety and client comfort.
37
Probing techniques
Electrolysis may be conducted on; face, legs, upper and lower back, chest, arms and underarms, abdomen and bikini
line.
PROBE INSERTION DIRECTIONS
1. Observe the direction of the hair growth through a magnifying lamp
2. Stretch the skin parallel to the direction of the insertion
3. Slide the probe into the hair follicle with smooth and steady pressure on the underside of the hair until resistance
is met at the bottom of the follicle.
4. When the bottom of the follicle is reached, a slight depression or a dimpling on the surface of the skin may appear.
If this occurs, pull the probe back slightly.
5. Depress the finger button or foot petal on the electrolysis machine. Count for five seconds, this being the length of
the current release. Release the button or pedal
6. Pause to allow the heat to dissipate and remove the probe. Remove the hair with tweezers
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
CAUTION WITH PROBE INSERTION
If the probe is inserted beyond the dimpling point, resistance will be felt followed by a breakthrough then restriction
again. This means that the bottom of the follicle has been punctured
Dimpling of the skin at the beginning of the insertion into the follicle means the angle of the probe is incorrect
If the probe is too large for the follicle, dimpling will occur near the beginning of the insertion
Discomfort at the beginning of the insertion indicates a poor angle or probe is too big
Discomfort when the probe is in the follicle means the probe has gone too deep and bleeding may occur
Observe client’s reactions. If discomfort occurs, withdraw probe and insert again. A good insertion should be only a
minor discomfort for the client
Inner root sheath must be removed to prevent it turning inside out in the follicle mouth. If this happens, a pustule
will develop because the inner root sheath blocks the flow of sebum
38
Positioning of the probe
Associated discomfort with electrolysis treatments.
The amount of discomfort and pain that a client may experience will be influenced by the client’s capability to tolerate
pain as well as stress, anxiety, state of health, fatigue, sensitivity of area being treated and the stage in the female
menstrual cycle. Some clients will have a high pain threshold while others may only be able to tolerate low levels of
pain.
The free nerve endings responsible for the sensation of pain are found just beneath and entering the basal level of the
epidermis. The deeper the probe enters the follicle the less painful it will be. In very sensitive areas such as the upper lip
the nerve endings overlap each other. With frequent treatments the pain becomes less obvious. Stronger, darker hairs
should be removed first. Some clients may take pain killers before they arrive at the salon for their treatment.
39
Electrical current
At the commencement of a treatment it is best to use a low intensity current for a longer time as it minimises the risk of
skin damage. The skin may become pink during the treatment and sometimes a heat bump will develop. If white marks
appear at the mouth of the follicle then it indicates that the current has travelled up to the surface of the skin. The aim
is to deliver sufficient current for an adequate length of time to destroy the hair root.
•Intensity is the power or current flow.
•Duration is the length of time the current flows.
•Intensity + duration is called treatment energy.
If the intensity is increased, the duration should be decreased while increasing the duration means reducing the
intensity. If the intensity is too high, then the skin will be damaged. If the intensity is too low, then there is not enough
energy to destroy the hair root.
The working point is the appropriate combination of intensity and duration that provides adequate treatment energy to
destroy the hair root without damaging the skin. No resistance should be felt when using a gentle tweezer action to
remove the hair. The hair shaft and bulb should be present. Note the intensity and duration used and repeat the same
action on all hairs with the same texture. Different hair textures require different intensity and duration. Always
consider the comfort of the client. Check on the client’s responses to the treatment. Techniques for setting the
intensity and duration will depend on the type of electrolysis machine you are using. Always follow machine
manufacturers’ instructions.
Disposal of waste.
Epilated hairs should be placed on a tissue or glove after removal. Care must be taken to avoid dropping the hair off the
tissue or glove before placing it in the waste bin. Remove probe from its holder without touching the probe and place
immediately into a sharps container. After treatment therapist gloves may be removed and placed in the waste bin. It is
essential to follow infection control procedures for disposal of infectious waste products correctly.
40
Intensity, duration and treatment energy measurements
Intensity.
Galvanic machines are measured in mA. 0.1-1.0mA The average is 0.3mA-0.7mA.
Thermolysis machines are measured in radio frequency watts. This machine has an intensity control knob with a scale
ranging from 0-10 or 10-100.
Duration is measured in seconds.
•Galvanic average hair = 30 seconds.
•Thermolysis average hair = 5 seconds.
•Blend average hair = 12 seconds.
Treatment energy.
Some machines have a treatment energy selector ranging from 0 to 125 units. The average hair requires 45 to 60 units.
When treating hairs of different diameters you will need to change the probe size. The current must be adjusted to be
suitable for the area being treated. The most sensitive area is the upper lip which is also easily marked. If the skin is
sensitive and the hair is strong it may not be possible to use enough current to remove the hair is one setting. Treat the
hair gently several times with less current and the hair should be able to be removed normally.
During the treatment an abnormal redness (erythema) will appear. A soothing lotion, gel or a damp cotton wool pad
may be applied to reduce the redness. If required, a tinted after electrolysis lotion may be applied to soothe and cover
the redness. Swelling is also common. This swelling is known as Perifollicular oedema and usually goes away within 24
to 48 hours.
41
Treatment techniques for different areas
The number of hairs removed depends on the therapists expertise and the type of machine. Galvanic method requires
15 to 180 seconds per hair and is the best method for very coarse hair. The blend and thermolysis methods are faster.
•Under chin and throat – client lies on their back with a pillow under their shoulder, allowing their head to tilt back off
the pillow.
•Side of face – client lies on their back or side and remove the darkest and thickest hairs first.
•Upper legs – client lies on their back or side. This is a very sensitive area. Hair direction varies but mostly it has a 45°
insertion with the follicles being deep. A long probe that matches the diameter of the hair must be used.
•Chest and female breast – client lies on their back. For centre chest hair, therapist sits at the head of the table with a
small pad under the client’s head. When treating hairs growing towards the waist prop a pillow under the far side to
angle the client towards you. Hairs in the breast area usually grow in two directions from a parting line concentrated in
small mounds that contain several medium to deep hair. Only remove three hairs from each mound in one treatment.
•Eyebrows – client lies on their back or side and place a towel over the hairline. Caution needs to be taken with hair
between the brows. High moisture content in this area may create a tendency for high frequency to act violently on the
epidermis. This hair has quite large and bulbous root structure of medium depth. Black eyes can be caused by improper
insertion or by the tendency of some clients to have easily ruptured capillaries. If a capillary should break, apply finger
pressure immediately to the area and apply a cotton pad wet with antiseptic. During the treatment you may need to
apply a cold compress if black eyes are produced.
•Menopausal women – usually have strong white hair growth appearing on their chin and upper lip.
•Darker skin – the blend method with low intensities is recommended for treatments conducted on darker skin tones as
it reduces the risk of hyperpigmentation occurring.
42
Adverse effects
Sometimes a client may have adverse effects besides the normal erythema and perifollicular oedema. There can be
many causes.
Common problems.
•Probe inserted into sebaceous gland.
•Probe moved up and down inside follicle.
•Probe shook from side to side inside follicle.
•Current discharge above, below or on either side of the germinative area.
•Current does not flow into follicle.
•Current sweeps away from the selected area.
•Current passes through the base of the follicle or through a side wall.
•Incorrect amount of current used.
•Sensitive skin that does not heal well and should not have had electrolysis.
•Dry skin that lacks oil or moisture may hinder probe insertion. Moisture is required for high frequency and galvanic
current to work. Oil on the skin’s surface acts as an insulator to prevent the current from flowing onto the skin’s surface.
•Skin that perspires during treatment needs great care. The blend method is the best one to use on moist skin.
While treating the client a number of conditions may occur;
•Loss of pinkness in the skin – this can be caused by too large a probe or overuse of pressure. When using the blend
method, gas and sodium hydroxide may build up under the skin’s surface causing loss of skin colour.
•Blanching – occurs with too shallow an insertion or too high a current.
•Bruising – occurs when wrong probe size used or penetration of follicle wall or base.
•During galavanism, weeping follicles indicate too much current, resulting in tissue decomposition.
•Inner root sheath is turned inside out in the follicle mouth. If this happens, a pustule will develop because the inner
root sheath blocks the flow of sebum.
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Treating conditions
CONDITION
Redness and welts. This is temporary and usually
disappears in a short time. Red and white welts are
common with galvanic and blend methods.
Bruising. These appear around the hair follicle usually on
the chin and eyebrows. Oversized probes, incorrect
insertion and probing too deeply cause bruising. They
fade quickly.
Scabs. These occur through tissue damage producing
leakage of fluid or blood. May take 24 hours to appear
and will disappear in a few days, however severe damage
may cause hyperpigmentation or scarring.
Folliculitis. This is inflammation around the mouth of the
follicle. Usually occurs from ingrown hairs or acne.
Local swelling. This is an indication of tissue irritation
mainly seen on upper lip after a long electrolysis session.
TREATMENT
Check technique and equipment. Reduce treatment
time, reduce intensity. Avoid concentrating on one area.
Advise client not to rub area. Apply cold compress and
apply soothing product to reduce heat.
Ensure accurate angle for insertion and correct probe
size. Apply cold compress.
Ensure client is still and use correct probe depth. Ensure
correct intensity and duration and that skin in dry. Do not
rest probe on the skin’s surface during treatment.
Those suffering from acne need their acne treated first
before having electrolysis. Avoid using water on
treatment area as this can flood the follicle and clients
should avoid plucking and waxing. Do not apply oily after
care products after treatment.
Upper lip treatments must not exceed 30 minutes.
Reduce intensity and apply a cold compress or soothing
lotion to reduce swelling.
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Treating conditions continued
CONDITION
Scarring. This is an indentation in the skin’s texture and
usually starts as a scab.
Keloids. These are excess growth of scar tissue at the site
of a healed skin injury with darker skin tones more likely to
develop keloids. Infection in the treated area, excessive
current used, shallow probing and over treatment can
cause keloids.
Punctured capillaries. This occurs when a capillary is
punctured and blood and lymph leak into the follicle that
hardens into a scab. This needs to fall off naturally
otherwise a scar may form.
TREATMENT
Ensure that current is not too high and insert appropriate
probe size correctly.
Correct use of equipment and observe infection control
procedures at all times. If infection occurs advise client to
seek medical advice.
Ensure correct and safe insertion of probe. Observe
infection control procedures.
Adjusting the treatment plan.
It may be necessary to adjust the treatment plan as the treatments progress. Sometimes there may be a lack of
progress in reducing the regrowth of hair. A therapist needs to tactfully discuss their suspicions that it may be due to
an underlying condition causing the production of new hairs or strengthening existing hairs. Have the client seek
medical advice as it may be a hormonal disorder.
In a normal situation a series of treatments should result in;
•Frequency and time spent conducting the treatment decreasing.
•Hair colour becoming paler and hair diameter decreasing.
•Hair follicles becoming shallower.
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After care advice for clients
The greatest risk for a client who is having electrolysis treatment is exposure to sunlight and infection. Exposure to
sunlight can cause hyperpigmentation. A client should apply a high factor sun screen product and wear a hat when
outdoors. Sometimes pustules will develop even though the therapist has observed infection control procedures
throughout the treatment. These pustules may be caused by wearing make-up too soon, touching the treated area and
excessive perspiration. It is recommended that clients do not wash their hair or face for 24 hours after having a
treatment conducted on the face. If infection occurs a hot compress can be applied every three hours and an antiseptic
lotion applied. An application of direct high frequency, with its germicidal and healing properties, may be given to the
client at the end of the treatment.
Regrowth after an electrolysis treatment.
It is normal to have a regrowth between 25% to 50%. Some of the reasons for regrowth are;
•Anagen hairs may be growing in the hair follicle but were not visible on the skin’s surface at the time of treatment.
•Hormonal levels may alter and previously fine hair becomes more terminal hair, or hormones produce new hairs.
•Late telogen hair may be just below the surface and miss being treated.
•Poor techniques used by the therapist and using faulty equipment.
•Not removing hair with distorted or curved follicles.
A client should only reduce the look of existing growth in-between appointments by cutting the hair. Any other method
will affect the hair bulb or irritate the skin.
After care skin care products and rebooking the client.
If this is the client’s first treatment the client needs to rebook. The time between treatments will depend on the area
being treated. A therapist also should provide after treatment skin care products to assist with the healing process.
These could include serums and lotions. Always follow manufacturer’s recommendations for after care procedures.
This completes the learning material for this unit.
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Hair follicle

Transcription

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