Heritage Magazine Issue #26

CONTENTS
01
A HOME OF RICH HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL HERITAGE
ourHeritage
ISSUE 26
01 Masjid Mahabat Khan
Mahabat Khan’s real name was amana Baig Kabuli. His date of birth is not known. He died in 1634. He was a prominent Mughal general and statesman, perhaps best known for his coup against the Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1626.
15
05 Kalash
or Kalasha , a very mysterious word, whenever it is spoken, one could imagine the wearer of black robes , the people with light skin, practicing the ancient paganic rituals in the cold/
freezing nights of the serene valleys of Hindukush.
43
15 Hashoo Foundation
Hashoo foundation with financial support from GIZ initiated a project “livelihood through Early Childhood Development training”,
25 Dr. Abdus Salam
On 21st November, the Nation honors the anniversary of its noble laureate Abdus Salam (died in 1996). Born on 29th January, 1926 in a small town: Jhung, then a part of British India.
33 Book Review
The upstairs Wife: Emotionally moving, extremely enticing and thoroughly enjoyable, The Upstairs
Wife by Rafia Zakaria is an amazing tale told in the simplest of English yet most convincing of styles.
35 Mystic Festivals
A nation’s integrity is perceived through its strength and in the continuity of cultures and traditions and not necessarily by an overgrown population comprising of good and evil.
05
53
Style Rising
from the east in France
51
Our Heritage is an in-house magazine of Hashoo Group-Hotel Division. No part of it may be
reproduced without the written consent of the publisher. Views expressed are those of the
writers and not necessarily those of Editorial Board. Responsibility of the contents of the
advertisements lies with advertisers. Our Heritage is published by Pakistan Services Limited for
Hashoo Group-Hotel Division.
This magazine has been prepared by Events, Marketing & Communications Department,
Pakistan Services Limited
For advertisements and articles for this magazine,
marketing-related proposals, joint promotions and cobranding etc. with Hashoo Group Hotels, please contact
Vice President
Events, Marketing & Communications Department
NESPAK House, Ground Floor, Ataturk Avenue
G-5/2, Islamabad, Pakistan
Tel: +92-51-2272890-98 • Fax: +92-51-2274812
Email: [email protected]
EDITORIAL BOARD
Andrew Ashmore
Tahir Mahmood Khan
Arslan Ahmed
Mubashir Aziz
Editor’s Note
E-mail: [email protected]
Hashoo Hotels’ awards-winning in-house magazine “our
Heritage”, enables the readers to learn about our heritage sites,
historical values, traditions and cultures, ecology, and the latest
trends of Pakistan. This magazine has been instrumental in
promoting Pakistan’s positive image at the international level.
E-mail: [email protected]
I am very thankful to my team members, contributors, and the
management of Hashoo Hotels’ for their outright support.
E-mail: [email protected]
The readers’ valuable suggestions have also played a pivotal role
in further improving the quality of the magazine.
E-mail: [email protected]
TAHIR MAHMOOD KHAN
E-mail: [email protected]
EDITOR, OUR HERITAGE
E-mail: [email protected]
E-mail: [email protected]
E-mail: [email protected]
“You simply need to board the fast train with
this belief and see for yourself how quickly
and far it takes you.”
Mr. Sadaruddin Hashwani
Chairman, Hashoo Group
Chairman’s Message
I would like to offer my best wishes to all readers for a
happy and prosperous New Year. 2015 passed by with
various ups and downs around the world, some were
shocking and insufferable tragedies. Pakistan also saw
some social, political, security and economic hardships,
but Alhamdulillah, relatively it remained quite stable,
and will continue to remain stronger, In Sha Allah. Let’s
pray that the year 2016 proves to be progressive,
peaceful and prosperous for Pakistan. The country is full
of opportunities and more importantly it is a country for
entire Muslim World to support and stand with them in
difficult times. Stronger Pakistan is vital not only for its
people but for the Muslim World as well.
At the same time, we must pardon each other’s errors
and prejudices of the past and present, and support one
another in the common struggle of attaining peace in
our land. Let’s make a fresh start and set ambitious
goals to become the best, truest, happiest and most
fulfilled version of ourselves. I am sure and confident
that Pakistan has all the potential to weather any storm.
Collectively, we can surely make Pakistan a symbolic
country in the world. Our efforts will create awareness
among our children and our collective dreams of a
prosperous Pakistan will definitely come true,
In Sha Allah.
Pakistan Zindabad!
Mr. Sadaruddin Hashwani
Chairman, Hashoo Group
MAHABAT KHAN
Mahabat Khan’s real name was Zamana Baig Kabuli. His date
of birth is not known. He died in 1634. He was a prominent
Mughal general and statesman, perhaps best known for his
coup against the Mughal Emperor Jahangir in 1626. Mahabat
Khan was born in Kabul,
By: Dr. Shaukat Mehmood
Afghanistan to a distinguished and
wealthy Rizvi Sayyid family. His
father, Ghayur Baig Kabuli, was a
native of Shiraz, Iran, who migrated
to Kabul and settled among the
local tribes. Ghayur Baig began
his career in the army of Mirza
Muhammad Hakim, the Mughal
ruler of Afghanistan, and upon the
death of Mirza Hakim in July, 1585,
he migrated to India with his family,
and entered into the service of the
Mughal Emperor Akbar.
Upon his arrival in India, Zamana
Baig enjoyed a rapid ascent though
the ranks of the Mughal army. He
began his military career in the
personal forces of Crown Prince
Salim (Emperor Jahangir). Having
endeared himself to the crown
prince, he was soon made an officer
in charge of 500 men.
of
the
glory the Mogul empire and their
love for construction, specially
the mosques. The mosque was
built in 1670 A.D, during the rule
of the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan
by Mahabat Khan, the governor
of Peshawar. Since the mosque
was financed and funded by him,
the mosque became to be known
as Masjid Mahabat Khan. The
mosque is masterpiece of Mughal
architecture, set among the gold and
silversmith shops. It has a narrow
but massive entrance on the eastern
side that leads to a large prayer
courtyard. There is another massive
gateway on the northern side that
precedes a large flight of steps. In
the middle of the courtyard is a cool
blue tiled ablution pond. The court is
surrounded by hujras on three sides
Upon Jahangir rise to the
throne in 1605, he was
granted the honorific title
Mahabat Khan, and was
promoted to the rank of
commander of 1,500 men,
and bakhshi (treasurer) of the
emperor’s private treasures.
Mahabat Khan rose to prominence
in 1623, when he was made
commander of the Mughal forces
sent to defeat the unsuccessful
rebellion of Prince Khurram
(Emperor Shahjahan) in the Deccan.
For his loyal service, he was
recognized as a ‘pillar of the state’,
and was ultimately promoted to chief
commander, sipah salar-i azam of
the Mughal army, with a personal
force of 7,000 soldiers.
The history of the city of Peshawar
is very old and a city that has seen
numerous invaders who came to
the subcontinent via Khyber Pass.
Pass has very less to offer as far
Muslim architecture is concerned,
specially the Mughal architecture.
However, Masjid Mahabat Khan is
the only structure that stands today
in a narrow ally of the “Andar Shehar
Bazaar” of the old city, that reminds
our Heritage | 2
on the western side is the beautiful
sanctuary of the mosque. The main
hall is lavishly decorated inside with
floral work and calligraphy. The top
of the mosque is covered by three
fluted domes, while two tall minarets
stand on each flank of the main hall.
Like all other Muslim buildings
that were looted, destroyed and
plundered during the Sikhs
occupation of Punjab and northwestern areas, this mosque was
also no exception. Its blue tiles and
ornamental plates were ruthlessly
removed and whisked away.
“During the appointment of General
Avitabile, an Italian mercenary, as
the governor of Peshawar, every
day before breakfast, he would have
a few local men hurled from the
top of the minaret of the Mosque
to “teach a lesson to the unruly
tribesmen”. His cruelty has passed
into the folklore of the walled city, for
naughty children are often warned
of the wrath of “Abu Tabela”, a local
corruption of ‘Avitabile’.
The main domes and the
minarets were destroyed by
the Sikh rulers by fire in 1898
A.D. and were only saved by
the unremitting efforts of the
faithful.
Singh in 1843, after which he retired
to Italy, where his rank as a general
was confirmed and he was knighted.
This mosque design and decorationwise shows a departure fro other
Mughal mosques. It is aesthetically
weak and overall look appears
rugged. The mosque has a
sanctuary with five arched openings
within large pointed arches. This
arrangement is not impressive.
There are three onion-shaped or
melon-shaped domes above the
sanctuary, their placing is queer.
The main central dome is larger and
rests on the bay behind the central
arched entrance but the flanking
domes are not exactly over the bays
behind the arched entrances. This
arrangement looks bizarre to a
design conscious eye.
The two minarets standing at the
two ends of the sanctuary are not
elegant either. They do not have good
proportions, they look fat and short.
Like wise their overhanging galleries
look heavy. They are not resting on
any brackets depriving them of an
elegant feature. Cupola over the
top story is albeit proportionate and
elegant.
The façade of the sanctuary also
has five turrets introduced over
in between the pilasters of five
entranced. The mosque is slightly
smaller than the Wazir Khan Mosque
of Lahore. The sahn (courtyard)
has an ablution pond in the middle
paved with azure ceramic tiles. The
main entrance today has become
obscure due to unruly constructions
opposite it and too close to it.
The main entrance has also two
turrets at it corners. Interior of the
sanctuary is elegantly embellished
and that remains the most attractive
part of the mosque. Fresco-work
bearing floral and geometric designs
though painted time and time again
maintains a fair amount of elegance.
Most probably this accounts for
their poor proportions and design.
The mosque was later rebuilt by the
British. Avitabile joined the army of
Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1827, and
later also received various civilian
appointments. In 1829 he was made
administrator of Wazirabad and in
1837 he succeeded Hari Singh Nalwa
as governor of Peshawar. With a
ruthless, at times brutal, style of
government, Avitabile established
order in the province where he
became known as ‘father of horror’.
Summary executions became
usual, and it is said that he would
have people executed by throwing
them from the top of the minarets
of Mahabat Khan’s mosque. He
remained in the Punjab until the
assassination of Maharaja Sher
3 | our Heritage
Picture Courtesy:beautifulmosque.com
Kalash or Kalasha , a very mysterious word, whenever it
is spoken, one could imagine the wearer of black robes ,
the people with ligh skin, practicing the ancient paganic
rituals in the cold/freezing nights of the serene valleys of
Hindukush.
By: Syed Imran Shah
Chitral is home of lofty mountain
peaks, the most famous of them all
is Mount Terichmir with the altitude
of 7708 m, the higest peak in
Hindukush mountain range.
Once Chitral was a princely state and
it was merged into Pakistan by the
Mehtars (rulers) of Chitral in 1969.
Chitral is located at some 360 Km
from Peshawar and 500 Km from
Islamabad through Lowari pass
3100 m and tunnel although the
pass is operational in summers but
in winters it is covered with heavy
snow so the traffic is operational
through Lowari tunnel, that is still
under construction. In the north, it
is connected to Gilgit city through
Shandoor pass 3700 at 360 Km. On
the other hand 3 weekly flights from
Islamabad and Peshawar to Chitral
are operated by PIA, but are weather
bound.
5 | our Heritage
Kalash is still an enigma to the
researchers, sceintists and
historians of the modern world ,
somewhere the Kalasha claim to
be the descendants of Alexander
of Mecedonia and somewhere the
writers term them as Indo-Aryans,
different hypothesis are there , but
as a matter of fact, alot of work is
still in progress to discover their
identity and tracing their ancestary.
Some 5000 Kalash people are
living in the 3 valleys of Chitral,
named as Rumbur, Bamborate
and Birir, however , Bamborate
and Rumbur valleys are connected
to eachother through a diversion
known as Dobazh, some 45 Km from
Chitral town, normally 2 hrs drive
to the both from the main town,
but Birir valley is a bit isolated and
having a very bad road, the tourists
mostly avoid it due to difficult road
conditions.
Bamborate is frequently visited
by the local tourists, being easily
accessible and the biggest valley in
terms of area and population and it
has got good hotels/guest houses
too but on the contrary, the foreign
tourists prefer to visit Rumbur valley,
that is smaller, less touristy and the
access is difficult too because of bad
road conditions.
Their economy is based upon
agriculture and livetstock, men graze
the livestock in the high pastures in
summers and in winters they stay
in the lower pastures not far from
the villages and whatever they grow
they store them for the harsh winter
months when the valleys are hit by
snow and blizzards from December
till March.
Firewood and timber is attained from
the nearby forests for construction
and other household purpose ,
besides that they also grow fruits
like walnut, apricot, mulberry,
grapes and apple etc. and store them
for winters, the wooden storages
could be seen near the villages when
one visits Kalash valleys, that are
called “Phasti” .
As stated earlier in the above lines
that Kalasha have been living in the
3 valleys of Hindu kush for centuries
but in the recent days
our Heritage | 6
I came to know about another
hidden far flung valley named as
“ Jinjiret koh” , where the Kalash
used to live but later on they all
converted to Islam and nowadays
the main village is known as
“Sheikhanandeh” means the village
of the newly converted Muslims.
So my expedition continues to
Jinjiret Koh valley from Chitral town,
it took some 3 hrs to cover that 65
Km distance , firstly on mettaled
road till Drosh, another small
town of Chitral valley, located on
Peshawar road.
The jeep crossed Chitral river to
the other side where jeepable road
continued that took me to the main
village of Jinjiret koh valley, after
speaking to a few locals I came to
know that the last Kalasha was seen
in the valley some 40 years back
but some remains of the Kalasha
Daur “Kalash age” are still there,
some coffins of an ancient Kalasha
cemetery.
But after some more research, I was
told about some ancient Kalasha
towers, so after walking for 30
minutes I reached a place named as
“Goodam Pondoori Bronze” where
these Kalasha towers were located,
an old man from the village told me
7 | our Heritage
that they are some
500 years old. As a
matter
of fact, there were 4 towers owned
by Kalash tribes in the valley but
unfortunately two have already been
demolished so only two are there but
not in a very good condition and need
urgent restoration.
After negotations with the owner I
was allowed to visit one of the towers
and I was briefly enlightened about
them, their background, the history
of the area and how they were used
against the invaders from Nuristan
(Afghanistan ), on the other side of
the border in the olden days.
Some relics of the Kalash Daur
(Kalash age) were also on display,
inside one of the rooms of the towers
likewise some pots, pestle & mortar
of the olden days, used by the
Kalasha families as houses as well
as watch towers.
My connection to the Kalasha tribes
is quite old, since my childhood
when I used to visit my relatives
in Bamborate valley as well as my
grandparents in Ayun and Chitral
town, but I was never this much
astonished after experiencing this
marvelous architcture inside this
small valley but on the other side, I
was concened too, a question kept
flickering across my mind during
the whole visit that as we have
already lost the Kalasha tribes
of Jinjiret Koh valley, so if this
architecture is not overtaken by the
relevant departments and funds
for restoration , they would be
demolished either by the locals for
some construction purpose or some
natural calamity in the coming days
and get shrouded in the dust of time
and at the end we would be only
telling the stories of the Kalasha
towers of the lost valley to our
coming generations in the future.
with
DR. SAJJAD KHAN
Founder & CEO ILHT
How long have you been in the hair
transplant business and what made
you decide to go into it?
I have been in medical hair
restoration and hair care for over 25
years. I was always intrigued with
surgeries that restore the youthful
appearance.
2. How many people would you say
have used your hair transplant
centers?
Over 10,000 in Pakistan
3. How much does it in general cost
to get a good hair system done?
In Medical hair restoration, there are
FDA approved medicines which help
reduce or stop the hair loss and you
can restore the lost hair through hair
transplants. Price for permanent
hair transplant ranges from Rs
100,000 to 200,000 depending on how
much work is required .
4. Can you describe the actual hair
transplanting process?
In surgical hair restoration, hair are
taken from the back of head; these
hair are genetically different and are
not affected by the hair loss . These
hair are planted in the bald area.
Results in good hands are natural
and permanent.
5. Are there some people who
come in and you know they won’t
be happy no matter what you do
for them, and if so what do you tell
them?
Generally, everyone is realistic
their expectation can be met . Hair
transplant is very rewarding.
6. What types of systems do you
offer (base materials, hair types/
source, etc) and what are the
advantages and disadvantages of
each kind?
We only offer medical and
surgical hair care. Medically
only two medicines - minoxidil
and finesteride are approved
to stop or reduce the hair
loss. Surgically there are two
techniques; one is called FUE
and the other FUT. If a person
life style is to keep the hair very
short, FUE is preferable. For
most FUT is a better option.
7. How much time per day does
the client need to spend personally
for maintenance and what does it
involve?
The transplanted hair does not need
maintenance; they grow along other
hair and need a regular haircut.
8. What tips can you give wearers
to keep their systems in as good a
shape as possible?
For younger person, their hair loss is
extremely fast, to maintain their own
remaining hair they should use FDA
approved minoxidil and finesteride
after discussing with the Doctor.
9. What do you think is the future
of hair replacement and what
improvements will there? What
other advances do you see in the
future for transplant surgery and
how soon do you think they will be
available?
Advances in medical area has
already improved the quality of
human life immensely . Just few
decades back nobody thought that
hair can grow back. Today almost
every one can restore their lost hair.
At ILHT along with everyone else,
heads of countries, movie and sports
stars are among our happy clients.
Future lies in preventing hair loss
completely and restoring the lost
hair through specific growth factors.
This might take us at least a decade
to get there.
Interview By: Saeeda Malik
Provincial
of Pakistan
By: Maria
Pakistan’s varied topography and climate endow a rich variety of native and migratory
birds, known todate, a total variety of 786 species. Each provincial region boasts a rich
diversity of wildlife, but, unfortunately many are endangered due to sheer negligence
of the environment or poaching. Despite the hurdles, caring hands in Pakistan such as
World Wildlife Foundation (WWF) - Pakistan are making an effort to protect nature’s wild
life treasures. Some of the native and thriving species of birds, though categorized under
the provinces and regions, some are also found scattered all over the country.
Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
Monal Pheasant - also known as
the, belongs to the pheasant family
of birds and is relatively larger in
size compared to its counterparts
in the family Phasianidae. It is the
national bird of Nepal where it is
known as Danphe. It is also the
state bird of Himachal Pradesh and
Uttarakhand , India.
These large mountain pheasants
are dimorphic much like peafowl.
The males of the species can weigh
up to 2380 g and are endowed with
eye catching iridescent plumage, a
11 | our Heritage
crown like crest that varies in size
and a bare blue patch of skin around
the eyes. Their chest and stomach
are velvety black; the bill is long and
curved, they have rounded wings and
a flat short tail. The females dull in
comparison to the glamorous males,
they can weigh up to 2150 g and have
dark brown plumage with rufous
and white markings and a noticeable
white patch on the throat. Firstyear males resemble the females in
appearance.
These birds are found on steep
slopes scattered with grassy areas.
In Pakistan the bird is most common
in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province,
it can also be found in Azad
Kashmir. The pheasant is not
considered endangered in the
region. In some areas of Pakistan it
is still fairly common at elevations
between 8000 and 12 000 feet and in
some valleys it can be easily located.
A variety of multi-hued mountain
pheasants thrive in the wilderness of
Gilgit-Baltistan region.
Punjab
Balochistan
Peafowl is perhaps the most
Chakaur or chakaur partridge
(Alectoris chukar) is a mid-sized
Eurasian game-bird that belongs to
the pheasant family Phasianidae. It is
the national bird of Pakistan and can
be found in the Balochistan province
along with other parts of the country
on rocky terrains across hillsides at
altitudes ranging from 2000-4000
metres. The bird is likely to have
derived its name from the distinct
sound that it makes: chuck-chuckchukar-chukar.
dramatic and dazzling of birds
in appearance is the Indian
peafowl or blue peafowl (Pavo
cristatus). This graceful, brightly
colored bird has been introduced
to many parts of the world but
is a native to South Asia . It is a
part of many Greek, Egyptians
and Hindu myths and legends.
Pakistan is home to these
extraordinary creatures. Peacock
(and peahens) is found in abundant
numbers and their flamboyant
appearance has made them popular
as pets throughout the country. A
thriving population of Peafowl exists
in Punjab and locally the bird is at
the center of much mysticism. In
close proximity to the Kallar Kahar
lake, peacocks roam near the tomb
of a saint near Takht e Baburi. The
locals believe that anyone who tries
to disturb and capture peacocks will
be destined to ill fate. Perhaps this
belief help keeping the peacocks of
this area unharmed and thrive in
population.
The natural habitat of Chakaur
is found in Asia, mainly including
Pakistan, Kashmir, India and
Afghanistan. It is closely related and
similar to its western equivalent,
the Red-legged Partridge, Alectoris
rufa. The sharply defined gorget
distinguishes this species from
the red-legged partridge which has
the black collar fading into dark
streaks near the chest. The Barbary
partridge (Alectoris barbara) has a
reddish brown collar with a grey
throat and face with a chestnut
crown.
The male peacock is primarily blue
with a fan like crest. They are best
known for their luxurious train,
comprising of s tiff feathers that open
in an artful display to reveal iridescent
eye shaped feathers in the hues of
blue, green and brown. This behavior
of feather display is common practice
to entice peahens during courtship.
These birds are dimorphic and the
females lack the train and vibrant
colors possessed by the males. They
have a green lower neck and dull
brown plumage. Peafowl mainly live
on the ground in open forests where
they prey on insects, lizards, small
rodents and also pick out berries.
They have loud distinguishable calls
that may indicate the presence of a
predator nearby. They avoid flying and
mostly only do so to roost in trees.
The chukar is a plump 32–35 cm (13–
14 in) long partridge, it has a grey
breast, light brown back and a fluffed
up belly. The face is white with a
black throat. It has rufous-streaked
flanks, coral red bill and red legs.
The tail has 14 feathers. However,
ornithologists claim that the hues of
the bird vary slightly from region to
region.
Both the sexes are similar in
appearance but the female is
slightly smaller in size. The bird
bares similarities to the rock
our Heritage | 12
A homing pigeon by the name of
Cher Ami has been awarded the
Croix de Guerre medal with a Palm
Oak Leaf Cluster for serving as
a messenger that saved the Lost
Battalion of the 77th Infantry
Division in the Battle of Argonne,
WWI.
The homing pigeon, as the name
suggests, can find their way home
over vast distances due to an innate
homing ability, these birds are
selectively bred. Flights - as long
as 1,100 miles have been recorded
at competitive pigeon racing events
and speeds of up to 140 km/h have
been observed during short distance
flights.
There homing ability and skills
have made them useful in carrying
messages earning them names such
as carrier or messenger pigeon.
During time of war they were often
referred to as “war pigeon” or
“pigeon post”.
partridge (Alectoris graeca) and was
therefore considered as one and the
same, but later, slight differences
earned the Chukar a category of its
own.
Sindh
Pigeon population is on the rise
while much of the avifauna in the
country is on a decline due to loss
of habitat, poaching and illegal
trade. Thousands of pigeons flock
by Karachi’s main landmarks or
buildings like the Empress Market,
round-about near the Sindh high
court, sites of several Masjids and
temples . The people in this great
commercial hub of the country make
the birds feel welcomed by sparing
morsels of food as they pass by.
This fairly common bird is
accredited as one of the
smartest birds on the planet
– often regarded a skilled
navigator.
13 | our Heritage
Pigeons have contributed to WWI
and WWII working with armed
forces in various countries. The
British made best use of Pigeons
as the most reliable courier
during their reign.
These agile birds vary from 32-37
cm long with a 64-72 cm wingspan.
Their appearance differs across
populations but largely they have
a dark bluish-grey head, neck and
chest with glossy greenish and
reddish-purple iridescence around
the neck and wing. Their diet
consists mainly of seeds, grain and
fruit, but occasionally; they will prey
on small insects, earthworms and
snails as well.
Islamabad Marriott Hotel
our Heritage | 14
“You educate a man; you educate
a man. You educate a woman; you
educate a generation.”
Brigham Young
15 | our Heritage
Hashoo Foundation’s Early Childhood
Development Trainees visit schools
in Islamabad
Gilgit Baltistan traveled to Islamabad
for a week and took Islamabad to
Gilgit Baltistan for decades ahead,
through a resolute and unflinching
bridge.
Hashoo foundation with financial
support from GIZ initiated a project
“livelihood through Early Childhood
Development training”, 240 young
and fresh female graduates were
trained, while 80 awareness sessions
were conducted that catered to 4,339
community members.
Early childhood development is
essential for a child’s performance
at school, unprepared children tend
to fall further behind. Over past
decade the Foundation has through
its Rawalpindi office, built up an
enviable track record in training
young women in ECD. Most of the
graduating young women have
gone to secure employment with
local school whilst some more
enterprising have established their
own pre-school facilities in their
local areas.
Gilgit Baltistan despite its high
literacy rate, lacks modern
technology and latest techniques
of teaching, therefore, one week’s
exposure visit for our newly trained
ECD teachers were planned. 8 top
performing trainees from 5 districts
(Hunza, Nagar, Astore, Ghizer and
Skardu) of Gilgit Baltistan visited
4 renowned schools of Islamabad:
Head Start 09 branch, CIERA (Center
for Integrated Education and Reading
Achievement), SLS (Seek the Light
and Spread it) and Bloomfield Hall,
where they observed an integrated
education system and teaching
techniques that were being practiced
extended their gratitude to Hashoo
Foundation and GIZ for their efforts
in training young women and
facilitating them with ECD materials.
A noteworthy achievement of the
project was the participation of
young girls from district Astore,
where women are subjected to
orthodox, conservative mind set and
cultural sensitivities. Despite many
impediments and hurdles, young
girls of Gilgit Baltistan did not give
up hope and remained steadfast in
pursuit of their goals. These young
girls, agents of change, have a
firm resolution of becoming future
leaders in their areas.
by the 1st world. Both secular and
religious education was taught
simultaneously to kids aged between
2 – 5 years. These trainees after the
visit to the classes, had a one on
one session with the schools heads,
where they discussed teaching
plans and aids to further enhance
their skills and make teaching more
interesting and interactive for their
students.
Hashoo Foundation is
investing in both the
quantity and quality of
early care and education
which it hopes will
provide a conclusive
and strong foundation
for the young minds of
Gilgit Baltistan.
This project received an
overwhelming appreciation for its
monumental impact and people
our Heritage | 16
By: Mansoor Khan
“Lightning
and thunder,
Miracles and
wonder,
Sounds of
many waters,
Heaven on
earth”
17 | our Heritage
KASHMIR, The dream land
and the chosen creation of the
Almighty Allah. The beauty of
Kashmir makes this famous
quote of the Mughal Emperor
Jehangir very true, when he
moved to such ecstasy and
exclaimed,
“If there is a paradise on earth,
it is here, it is here, it is here”
Ratti Gali is the name of a pass
(altitude of 13,600 feet) is situated
on the Border of Azad Kashmir and
Kaghan Valley. The valley towards
Kaghan is known as Ratti Gali valley.
Though Neelum Valley as whole
has lush green meadows, beautiful
waterfalls and plains covering
amazing natural flowers of different
colours but one of the extra ordinary
trekking attractions and sparkling
jewel of the Neelum Valley is Ratti
Gali Lake. The Ratti Gali Lake is an
alpine glacial lake which is located
in Neelum Valley, Azad Kashmir,
Pakistan at the altitude of 12,130
feet (3,700 m). The lake is fed by the
surrounding glacier waters of the
mountains and surrounded by grassy
slopes and a number of breathtaking
waterfalls.
In the summer season, the whole
area around this mesmerizing lake
becomes a place of lush green
meadows, wild and magnificent
flowers and radiant alpine
plantations while in winter this valley
is covered with white snow and big
chunks of Glacier floats in the dark
blue magical water of Ratti Gali Lake
like huge swans.
Ratti Gali Lake is accessible from
three routes i.e. 1. Dowarian,
Neelum Valley, 2. Burawai, Kaghan
Valley 3. Jalkhad, Kaghan Valley. All
three treks are extremely scenic and
naturally rich. Due to the location of
the lake, all the three treks require
energies and long hours trekking
with necessary camping gear along
with all food and fuel arrangements.
From Dowarian, Neelum Valley
The best route for People who
are coming from the Punjab is
from Dowarian Neelum Valley
via Islamabad, Bhurban and
Muzafarabad. The approximate
time to reach to Muzafarabad from
Islamabad is 2.5 to 3 hours whereas
there is additional 2.5 hours’ drive till
Dowarian and one can reach on small
cars as the road condition is very
good. Dowarian use to be the base
camp for Ratti Gali valley and the lake
is accessible from Dowarian by an
un-metaled 19 km road plus hiking
trek through breath-taking sites.
Most recently AJ&K Government
has developed a jeep track of
approximately 14 km which is covered
in 3 hours to reach Ratti Gali base
camp, and the rest of the distance is
covered through 2.5 hours trekking.
In order to fully explore the beauty of
this heaven on earth, proper planning
is but mandatory. Before embarking
on trekking a tour, it is recommended
to visit the beautiful Pearl Continental
Muzafarabad from there one can
easily reach Dowarian and hire a
jeep for Ratti Gali or stay at Keran in
Neelum Valley which is 5 km short of
Dowarian. There are quite a number
of guest houses in Keran, park your
vehicles there and hire jeeps for Ratti
Gali.
From Burawai, Kaghan Valley
In the south east of Burawai, Kaghan
Valley, there is a jeep track by the
nullah known as Jorr, which leads
to the Ratti Gali Valley. The 9 km
jeep track ends at village Jorian.
From Jorian to Ratti Gali you have
to trek 15 km of which initial part is
very steep and the trekkers have to
pass through some small glaciers.
That area of valley is comparatively
narrow but as soon as you are about
to enter the Ratti Gali valley, the
trek is broad and easier. At 6 km
from Jorian, there is a traditional
camping site known as Das Chaali.
You can find small huts of gypsies.
Natural clean drinking water is
easily available at Das Chaali. After
Das Chaali the valley turns to the
right towards east and after 4 hours
trekking you can reach Ratti Galli
Base Camp.
From Jalkhad, Kaghan Valley
It takes about 2 hours by a jeep from
Naran to Jalkhad. This is a lovely
ride with serene views of Kunhar
River, side streams, waterfalls and
forested landscapes of Kaghan
Valley. There are several lodging
options at Battakundi and Burawai
before reaching the Jalkad.
Jalkad is a beautiful valley and
seasonal tourist settlement with a
restaurant, a small mosque and a
couple of basic commodity shops.
There is an excellent riverside
camping field behind the restaurant.
The Jeeps can also be hired from
here for the trek’s starting point just
after the Noorinar Top. If a porter/
guide is required, make sure that the
hired person has done the complete
trek recently.
Due to heavy snowfall on Noorinar
and surrounding heights, the road to
Sharda from Jalkahd remains closed
till the mid of the season. Occasional
glacier and landslides also create
hurdles for jeep travelers. If the road
is opened, it may take up to three
hours to Noorinar Top, 17KM from
Jalkhad. This is an awesome jeep
ride again with incredible views of
snowcapped mountains, frequent
side streams and grassy slopes
with a smooth flowing stream. The
trekkers usually ask the driver to
drop a further 2 kilometers from
the Noorinar Top alias Noori top at
the starting point of trek. The trek
starts from the jeep road and enters
into the remote green and white
hills. The walking trail is sometimes
too narrow to step on due to the
dense layer of lush green grass and
flowers of every color. This is an
easy walking for about 45 minutes to
reach a remarkably large and noisy
waterfall flowing from the Noori
Lake.
From here the treks towards Noori
Lake and the Ratti Gali Pass divide
in two directions. The path for Noori
Lake is on the right side along the
waterfall. This is an inclined climb on
the stony ridge for about 10 minutes
which takes you to bowl shaped
valley, usually filled with white snow.
our Heritage | 18
Pass, there are superb views of the
valleys on both sides. In addition, the
partial part of deep blue Hans Raj
Lake on the Dowarian Valley and an
unnamed small lake on the Kaghan
side is also visible from the Top. A
carpet of extremely beautiful flowers
in random colors is a sensational
reward. From the Ratti Gali Pass
onwards, there is a moderate decline
till the Dowarian. From the Top, the
Hans Raj Lake is less than an hour’s
easy walking.
A short walk on the snow is required
to get on the left side trek. This is
a moderated hike of about another
45 minutes to reach the snowy lake,
encircled by mountains.
This is an ideal location for the first
night camping for those who are
carrying proper gear. The nights can
be very cold as we found the lake’s
surface frozen in the morning.
For reaching Ratti Galli base camp
or Ratti Gali Lake, it requires steady
19 | our Heritage
efforts and energies. It takes about
half to reach the trek at the Ratti
Gali Pass. The water availability is
not an issue here, however, water
bottles are recommended. The best
time to cover this section is the early
morning as in the sunlight it can be
difficult to walk for long hours.
To reach to the Ratti Gali Pass, it’s
all about jumping and climbing over
the boulders and stones. It may
take up to 2 hours to scramble over
the rocks and snow. Once on the
The Ratti Gali Lake is a 3 hours
walk from the Hans Raj Lake. The
path continues on the grassy slope,
frequent streams and a couple of
snow patches. There are multiple
visible treks and all leads to the Ratti
Gali Lake. It can be a better option
to stay on the higher trek to avoid an
inclined walk just before the Ratti
Gali Lake. There is a wide and grassy
plane just under the lake which is
an ideal location for camping. A
brilliant water stream from the lake
is dropping on the end of the plane,
adding a splendid grandeur to the
whole view.
Karachi Marriott Hotel
The Legends of Pakistan
Memoirs of Waheed Murad & Masod Rana
By: Saifuddin Ismailji
Born on 2 October
1938, the Living
Legend - Waheed
Murad: the actor,
writer, producer and
director, undeniably
the most creative
artist, not only of
Pakistan Cinema,
but also the Subcontinents’, led the
Industry as a superstar
from the mid sixties
to late seventies.
A graduate with a
masters degree in
English Literature,
during his career from
1960 till his death (23
November 1983), he
worked in about 124
films; produced eleven
films, wrote film script
for 4 films and directed
one film.
As a writer, behind the light romantic
entertainment versions of his films,
Waheed made strong statements in
his script on differences and class
systems in our society that hinders
- what it takes in nation building.
Producer-Actor Waheed Murad in
his script for Samandar (1968), on
location (then) E.Pakistan, showed
the spirit of serving the community
without playing into hands of the
outsiders. Waheed had this genius in
script writing, leaving the audience
clueless, while delivering strong
message relating to dark side
of the society, in a manner that
unscrupulous characters, as in real
life, could not point a finger towards
him.
S.M. Yousuf introduced Waheed
Murad in his first film Aulad (1960).
He played supporting role with lead
stars Nayyar Sultana and Habib.
Three years after, he got his 2nd
supporting role in Daaman with
Sabiha and Santosh leading the cast.
In 1964, Waheed produced Heera Aur
Pathar and introduced Parvaiz Malik
to the Cine-world. Playing the lead
with Zeba, the pair gained over-night
popularity. Waheed received his first
award in Best Actor category. The
film proved a milestone not only in
Waheed’s career but in the Pakistan
Film Industry, with a formation of a
talented team comprising of Waheed
Murad, Zeba, Parvaiz Malik, Sohail
Rana (musician), and Ahmed Rushdi
– Mala (play back singers).
Soon after, the success story of the
team presented all time favorites
like Armaan, followed by Ehsaan,
Doraha, Ishara, Jahan Tum Wahan
Hum, Usay Dekha Usay Chaha.
Actor – Producer – Writer:
Waheed Murad’s Armaan
was Pakistan’s first
Platinum Jubilee film
(1966), in which he played
lead with Zeba.
The block buster movie bagged
many awards and Waheed won in
the category of both – producer and
actor.
Some of his other ground-breaking
movies included Zafar Shabab’s
Shabana (1976 Diamond Jubilee)
with Barbara & Shahid; Hassan
Tariq’s Anjuman ’70 with Rani
and supported by mature actors
including Sabiha, Santosh and
Deeba; M. Akram’s Punjabi film Ishq
Mera Naa ‘74 with Aalia.
During the hey-days of Pakistan film
Industry, Nadeem and Mohammad
Ali shared with him the title of
super stars. In Nazar Shabab’s
Shama, Waheed played lead with
Deeba and was starred with all the,
then shining stars of the Industry
including Nadeem, Barbara Sharif,
Mohammad Ali, Zeba. Waheed
found his leading ladies: Deeba,
Rani and Barbara Sharif at the loss
of the more popular film-pair with
Zeba, after her marriage to actor
Mohammad Ali. Together (WaheedZeba-Mohammad Ali), they starred
in several films including Kaneez,
Jaag Utha Insaan, Phool Meray
Gulshan Ka, Dushman, Mohabbat
Zindagi hai, Jab jab Phool Khilain,
Goonj Uthi Shehnai, Aap Ka Khadim.
Hero (1985) was Waheed’s last film
with Barbara Sharif.
His outstanding work
earned him the Best Actor
Award for the films Heera
Aur Pathar, Armaan,
Andleeb and Mastana Mahi.
Waheed was at his very best in light
romantic roles and no other actor
matched the brilliance of Waheed
in song picturization. Although the
undisputed king of Ghazal – Mehdi
Hassan rendered each number
with a mastery in his own class;
filmization of his songs on Waheed
Murad translated a visual depth
of expression, some immortalized
forever, which included songs like:
- Dunia kisi kay pyar main jannat sey kam nahi
(Film: Jaag Utha Insaan)
- Ik naye maur pey ley aaye hain halat mujhey (Ehsaan)
- Mujhay tum nazar sey, gira tau rahey ho (Doraha)
- Aakri baar mil rahay hain hum (Isharaa).
- Saathi,Tera mera saathi hai (With Rushdi, Saaen Akhtar and Allah Baksh/ Film: Samandar)
- Meray Dil ki hai Aawaaz kay bichda yaar milay ga (Baharon phool Barsao)
- Mera Mehboob Aa Gaya, Dil mera lahra gaya (Neend Hamari Khwaab Tumharay)
However, when S.Asia’s most
praised versatile playback singer
Ahmed Rushdi passed away,
Waheed was so much emotionally
stressed that he said: “I have lost my
voice”! Ahmed Rushdi songs filmized
on Waheed appeared as if himself
(Waheed) singing the song on the
screen and as such, fans of Waheed,
till todate cherish songs like:
- Jhoom Ay Dil Woh Mera jaane bahar aaye ga (Dil Mera Dharkan Teri)
- Mujhay Tum Sey Mohabbat hai (Heera aur Patthar),
Born with a silver spoon to a
Rajput landlord family in Mir Pur
Khaas, Sindh (June 1938), fans
of Masood Rana observe 20th
anniversary in October 2015.
- Ko-ko Korina (Armaan),
- Haan Isi Maur Par Iss Jagah Baith Kar (Film: Doraha),
- Chor Chalain Hu Shehar Tumhara (Phir Chaand Niklay Ga),
- Bhuli hui hoon daastaan, guzra huwa khayal hoon (Doraha);
just to mention a very few.
Waheed’s gentle
voice also
synchronized with
prolific playback
singer Masood
Rana - a generation
of music lovers that
belonged from the
early sixties will never
forget numbers like:
- Fasana-e-Dil hai mukhtasar sa, kay aag dil main bhardak uthi hai
- Jawab do na do, laikin mera salaam tau lo (Bhaiya)
Although he captured the attention
of the audience from the very
beginning of his career as a singer in
mid fifties with his first recital, which
was broadcasted on Radio Pakistan
Hyderabad, he earned a position in
playback singing in 1962 with his
very first film song for Film Inqelab:
“Mashriq ki tareek faza mein
naya svera phoota hay”.
Following the super hit song: “Tangay
wala khair Mangda” (Daachi, 1964);
he got a break in film Humrahi (1965)
with all his seven songs in the film,
each a super hit. He had conquered
the Pakistani Cinema in the arena of
playback singing, and had become
lead singer for Punjabi films and
the most popular vocal, almost
in line with Ahmed Rushdi. Often
complemented as Mohammad Rafi
of Pakistan, Masood Rana’s high
pitched vocals had full command
over downright mournful and
utterly cheerful expression and yet
with soothing voice, best suited for
thematic songs and at sung at ease
ever popular light hearted romantic
songs and duets with Mala, Runa
Laila and Noor Jahan. Some of the
songs, as under, won the hearts of
millions:
- Teri Yaad Aa gayi, gham khushi main dhal gayey (Chaand Aur Chaandni)
- Phir Subah Ho Gi Andheray main hi ruknay waalay (Theme Song for Phir Subah Ho Gi)
- Mera khayal ho tum meri aarzoo tum ho (Nazneen)
-Jaag raha hai sara watan, saathion, muahidon. . .;
He also recited kalams in praise of
God and Naat before the court of
Prophet Mohammad (PBUH) with his
inspirational prayer recital:
- Ye waada karo kay mohabbat karain gey (with Noor Jahan Film: Daman Aur Chingari)
-Karam ki ek nazar hum par, Khudara ya Rasool Allah
- Ay Dil tujhey ab unn sey yeh kaisi shikayat hai (Shararat)
Masood Rana sung more
than 1000 songs over more
than 3 decades, mostly in
Urdu and Punjabi and won
several awards.
- Kya kahoon aye Dunya waalo kya hoon mai (Film: Humrahi)
- Aag laga kar chupnay waalay sunn mera afsana (Dil Lagi)
- Naqsha teir judaai ka lakhtey jigar main hai (Humrahi)
- Murjhaye huay phoolon ki kassam iss des main phir naa aaoon ga (Aansoo)
- Mujhey Chod kar akela kahin dooor jaanay waalay (Humrahi)
-Ay Watan hum hain teri shama kay parwanon main. . .
- Raah dikhlaye tera pyar mujhey (Humrahi)
While
Masood’s lively
high pitch voice
rendered high spirited
patriotic songs when Pakistan
fought a couple of wars against
India’s aggression:
He died of
heart
attack while
on a train
journey on 4 October,1995; aged 57
years. Masood’s enchanting voice
through his evergreen songs will
always live among music lovers.
Pearl-Continental Peshawar
our Heritage | 24
Pakistan’s
Noble Laureate
Dr. Abdus Salam
By: Maria
On 21st November, the Nation honors the
anniversary of its noble laureate Abdus Salam
(died in 1996). Born on 29th January, 1926 in a
small town: Jhung, then a part of British India. His
family was dedicated in maintaining a tradition of
attaining knowledge. Salam’s father, Chaudhry
Muhammad Hussain, was an Education Officer in
the Department of Education of Punjab State.
our Heritage | 25
At a young age of 14, Salam was
cycling home when he found
himself surrounded by the entire
town that had waited to greet and
celebrate his outstanding result
in the matriculation examination.
He scored the highest marks ever
recorded for the exam from Punjab
University. He was awarded a full
scholarship to Government College
University of
Lahore. Here
he opted for
Mathematics
as his main
subject. This
bright pupil
showed great
potential
in various
subjects,
including
English but
despite of
the persuasion of his
mentors and tutors
to make English his
subject of focus he chose
to remain inclined to
Mathematics. He earned
his MA in 1946 and within
the same year was also
awarded a scholarship
to St. John’s College,
Cambridge, where he
completed BA (honors)
with a double First in
mathematics and physics
in 1949.
While Salam was pursuing his
doctoral studies, his mentors
brought him a most defiant
challenge, a problem that had
baffled great minds such as
Feynman and Dirac. Salam found a
solution within six months for the
renormalization of meson theory
which gained him the attention of
Oppenheimer, Dirac and Bethe.
Riazuddin was the sole student
with the honor of studying under
his wing at under-graduate and
post-graduate level in Lahore and
Post-doctoral level in Cambridge
University.
In 1954, Salam became one of the
earliest fellows of the Pakistan
Academy of Sciences but soon after,
he left Pakistan to join St John’s
His father had wished
Salam to join Indian Civil
Service, but the young
Salam had his own
ambitions.
He received the Smith’s Prize
from Cambridge University in
1950 for a worthy pre-doctoral
contribution to physics. At
Cambridge, he earned a PhD in
theoretical physics. He published
a thesis in 1951 which contained
valuable work on quantum
electrodynamics; he was
internationally acclaimed for it.
After his doctorate, Salam
became professor of
Mathematics at Government
College University, he remained
there till 1954. He was also the
Chairman of the Department of
Mathematics, and professor at the
University of Punjab. As chairman he
updated the university curriculum.
The university students had varied
opinions regarding the doctor.
Salam began to supervise and take
a few students under his guidance.
College as a Mathematics professor.
In 1957 he launched a scholarship
program for his students in Pakistan.
His devotion to his country remained
solid.
Salam was invited to take a chair
at Imperial College, London, and
he and Paul Matthews went on
to set up the Theoretical Physics
our Heritage | 26
Department there. It soon flourished
to become a highly acclaimed
research department that included
well known physicists such as Tom
Kibble, Gerald Guralnik, Steven
Weinberg, Riazuddin and John Ward.
Salam received the honor to
become one of the youngest
Fellow of the Royal Society
(1959), at the age of 33. He
availed a Fellowship at the
Princeton University in 1959
and later became a Foreign
Fellow of the Bangladesh
Academy of Sciences
In 1960, Abdus Salam returned to
Pakistan in 1960 to take charge of
a government post that was given
to him by Ayub Khan. He branched
out the web of physics research and
development in Pakistan and sent
more than 500 scientists abroad. On
September 1961, with the support
of President Ayub Khan, Salam
He became increasingly ill and
passed away due to progressive
supranuclear palsy at the age
of 70 on 21 November 1996 in
Oxford England. He was returned
to Pakistan where around 30,000
people attended his funeral prayers.
He was buried next to his parents’
graves.
He played a significant role
in Pakistan’s nuclear energy
development for peaceful purposes.
He served as the head of Pakistan’s
IAEA delegation (1964). Following
year (1965), he and Edward Durrell
Stone signed a contract for the
establishment of Pakistan Institute
of Nuclear Science and Technology
at Nilore, Islamabad
Salam’s work in Pakistan is
regarded as highly influential
and his peers, students - the
entire nation will always
remember. Today, a small
two room house measuring
400-sq.foot in Mohallah
Dawood Nagar (Jhung) stands
a national monument in
memoriam to the
established the country’s first
national space agency.
He played an important role in
the advancement of nuclear
physics. He urged Pakistan to
focus on theoretical physics and
remained dedicated to the field and
Mathematics.
Salam brought forth the
monumental Higgs bosons to the
theory of the Standard Model and
later predicted the phenomenon of
proton decay. In 1963, he published
his theoretical work on the vector
meson.
From 1959 Salam worked on the
unification of the four fundamental
forces of nature, which are
the gravitational force, strong
and weak nuclear forces and
the electromagnetic force. He
triumphantly exhibited that the
weak nuclear forces are not much
different from the electromagnetic
forces. He brought about a theory
that showed the unification of these
two fundamental forces of nature
and how they are inter convertible.
Glashow had also formulated
the same work, and the theory
was combined in 1966. He
later proved the electroweak
theory mathematically in
1967 and got it published. For
their valuable work, Salam,
Glashow, and Weinberg were
awarded the Nobel Prize in
Physics in 1979.
our Heritage | 27
This extraordinary man was known
to be a very private individual and
kept his personal and public matters
at a comfortable distance. He
married two times, first to a cousin
and the second time to Professor
Dame Louise.
“Father of Pakistan’s school
of Theoretical Physics.”
Pearl-Continental Karachi
PEARL IN THE OYSTER…….
Pearl Continental Muzaffarabad
The Pearl Continental Hotel Muzaffarabad reveals itself with a graceful flourish as the
potential guest navigating the final curve along the private hill road leading to the
premises , comes face to face with its imposing presence. Totally at home with its
surroundings, it is somewhat like the proverbial pearl in the oyster, waiting to be prized open
by the seasoned diver, its muted grandeur has a decidedly sobering effect on the weary
traveller whose awestruck reaction to the spectacle was obviously a pre designed
architectural ambition. Decidedly the best kept secret in luxury living this side of Islamabad
, Pakistan’s federal capital and just three to three and a half hours of sheer driving pleasure
from it, the hotel lies coyly snug and undisturbed in the protective bosom of the surrounding
horse shoe of mountain peaks.
The PCHM becomes that essential
link between the aesthetics of natural
design and the human spirit of
adventure as it stands magnificently
on a slight elevation from the city of
Muzaffarabad, which itself stands at
the meeting point of two rivers: the
Neelum and the Jehlum. The 100
guest rooms, each with a breath
taking view of this natural wonder
from one side and of the Pir Chanasi
peak , on the other are equipped with
luxury beddings and five star
amenities of world class comfort.
Besides the standard and deluxe
accommodation,
twenty
seven
Executive rooms and three special
suites, the Jehlum, the Neelum and
the Presidential have also been
dressed up. PCHM offers banquet
and meeting facilities, Hi-Speed
Internet / WiFi Connectivity along
with video conferencing, round the
clock security, twenty four hour room service, an Executive
Lounge, car rental service, a health club, and a billiard room.
Shop- a-holics and souvenir, curio seeking guests can visit the
city below, but the Hotel is developing its own shopping arcade,
one of whose highlights is the on-call Kashmiri shawl crafts
person.
The PCHM presents a very quaint, laidback house –in-the
-forest, albeit, complete with all modern amenities and
impact, guests will appreciate the special architectural
features that are a tribute to the management’s environment
friendly policies. Interestingly, while the rock formations
against which the hotel stands, have been magnified by design,
the prolific presence of wooden highlights in the reception area
may lead many environment conscious visitor to ask for
explanation; but doubts are soon assuaged as the Manager
explains how concrete beams have been dressed up to look
like real wood! The reception desk backed by a huge mural
style collage of ten pictures of the Mirpur Ramkot fort is the
heart of the hotel in many ways. It is also a vantage point for
visitors looking on to the city of Muzaffarabad…a sprawling,
teaming town of government offices, mystique filled bazaars and private residential and business properties. The roving eye will
definitely notice the dominating pink and blue hues of the buildings which are a tribute to the friendship of neighbouring Turkey
and donor organisations that helped the city to return to life after a devastating earthquake five years ago. Guests can now see first
hand, how resilience and courage pays. Over breakfast or lunch, they view the Jalalabad Park and the pink mosque spread down
below.
While the PCHM is a beautiful home to those away from home it is also the take off point for travellers wishing to explore the area
of AJ&K. At two hours jeep drive from the hotel and worth a visit is the famous Zalzala Lake, miraculously formed as a result of the
earth movements of 2005. Today it is a lovely picnic spot as is the Pir Chanasi top, a rich green plateau that can be seen from the
hotel rooms. Also recommended is a nineteen kilometre trip to Pattika which is the entrance to the gloriously beautiful Neelum
Valley and first stop to Sharda at an altitude of 1981 meters. Ath Makam, Kel and Kutton are also worth a visit
PCHM invites domestic and international tourists to come and explore a land whose beauty has to be experienced to be believed.
The trouble-free area offers a wealth of possibilities and a unique adventure into one of nature’s best preserves.
31 | our Heritage
Book Review By:
Khuzaima Fatima Haque
Author: Rafia Zakaria
Published By: Beacon Press
Emotionally moving, extremely
enticing and thoroughly enjoyable,
The Upstairs Wife by Rafia Zakaria is
an amazing tale told in the simplest
of English yet most convincing of
styles. A much recent novel added to
the contemporary novel scene, it is
a book that will make you laugh yet
make you wonder. It will make you
smile yet it will make you question. It
will make you satiated and yet it will
make you yearn for more.
The story begins with the
announcement of the death of
Benazir Bhutto, the first woman
ever who ruled The Islamic Republic
of Pakistan and who is also the
beloved daughter of Zulfiqar Ali
Bhutto, the country’s late Prime
Minister. Simultaneously, in Rafia
Zakaria’s family, Uncle Sohail, who
had brought shame to the family
by taking up a second wife, is near
death. The family crisis and the
crises within the country are thus
taken up together by the author and
weaved into one complete story.
Throughout the two hundred and
fifty-one pages the events entwine to
our Heritage | 33
tell the most interesting of stories,
mingling the past and the present,
of lives spent, of desires and dreams
unfulfilled both for the characters of
the story as well as the country. The
harsh realities then unfold making
up what Pakistan is today. Alongside
this political scenery is the story of
how and why Zakaria’s forefathers
migrate to the new land of Pakistan
and settles in Karachi, a city that
begins to welcome a multitude of
immigrants and later on falls victims
to a civil war through militancy
groups and terrorists. It then reveals
facts and gruesome details of
massacres, riots and strikes that
every Karcahite may know but refuse
to put on paper from fear of making
memories too bitter. The very people
who call the city their home now
go through a multitude of emotions
because of the changes in the
political scene of the country.
The Upstairs Wife interestingly is
a story of our country that all of
us love to criticize and disown if
trouble seeps up. The irony of the
situation is made more obvious by
revealing the personal story of Aunt
Amina. The hope with which she
begins a married life to shattering
of dreams when her husband brings
in a second wife to her accepting a
routine when she has to live with
the days of her husband divided
between her and the “Upstairs
Wife”, the second woman who
now lives above her in a separate
quarter of her house especially
built for the new woman. Later
on the acceptability of life’s harsh
realities to her being told that she
must not try to change things even
after the first wife passes away is a
heartbreaking emotion beautifully
captured by the author. Here is when
the reader comes to understand the
heartbreaking of the thousands of
Pakistanis when political changes
affect their lives.
Just as each scene is paired
with a scene from the
pages of Pakistani history,
the most important of
events in Pakistan’s history
coincidentally mark events
that change writer Zakaria’s
life as she tells the tale. One
must admit that the writer
has taken up a very difficult
topic but presented it very
attractively.
Taking an example, the original
marriage proposal to Aunt Amina
from Uncle Sohail comes within
days of Pakistan’s forfeiture of East
Pakistan which is now Bangladesh.
Similarly, the year when Aunt Amina
returns to her father’s house,
Benazir Bhutto returns to her
father’s home, too, after seven years
of self-imposed exile from Pakistan.
Through this novel, one realizes that
the same immigrants who leave
behind everything they own in India
and come to Pakistan to find a new
identity are left in the middle with
no support. Similarly Aunt Amina’s
dream and struggle for a new
identity for herself with Sohail after
the marriage is as much troubled.
The author’s narrative technique is
not new is the literary world but the
way she practices it is nothing short
of perfection. The fragmentation
this style creates lends the novel
a sort of urgency, a topic of this
magnitude definitely requires. The
balance between the scenes struck
by the author is amazing and keeps
the readers on their toes till the last
page.
Zakaria has put in a lot of
historic events that show the
amount of research that must
have gone into the creation of
THE UPSTAIRS WIFE. She talks
about the different groups that
shaped the country between
1947 and 2007,
numerous migrations, sectarian
conflict, a series of military coups,
political violence, how the country
is drawn into wars run by the Super
power, Cold War tensions, wars with
India, wars in Afghanistan, the 9/11
attacks and so on.
Raffia Zakaria is a columnist for
the Pakistani newspaper Dawn, Al
Jazeera America and others, and is
a member of Amnesty International
USA’s board of directors. No doubt,
the novel so skillfully covers together
a whole lot of political history and
yet reveals the complicated personal
politics of a family in one go. All in
all, The Upstairs Wife is a must read
for those who look for drama and
history on a single plate.
our Heritage | 34
Mystic
Festivals
By: Saifuddin Ismailji
A nation’s integrity is perceived through its strength and in the continuity of cultures
and traditions and not necessarily by an overgrown population comprising of good
and evil. Pakistan’s colorful identity strongly reflect in its many mystic festivals
(mela) where devotees find an up, close and personal connection with a philosophy of
humanity in a shared sense of spirituality. This manifestation of spiritual enrichment
is enacted at its very best during the birth (milad) or death (urs) anniversary by the site
of shrine or mausoleum of the saints, Sufis and eminent scholars, which are spread
across the length and breadth of the country – Punjab, in particular.
A typical festivity comprising of a spiritual gatherings attended by prominent Sufi
musicians, scholars and Heads from spiritual centers across the country would
include naat recitals in praise of Prophet Mohamed (PBUH), Qirat (recitation of Holy
Quran), Qawwalis (chanting on high-key notes) and also mystic dancing on the beat of
Sufi music. The philosophy behind these festivals is to confirm love for the Creator,
which will lead to love for all creation as a natural consequence.
The following stands out among the
more revered and colorful mystic
festivals, such as: Mela Chanan Peer,
Urs Sehwan Sharif, Urs Bardi Imam,
Urs Daata Ganj Baksh, Urs Sufi saint
Hazrat Baba Fariduddin Gunj Shakar,
Urs Abdullah Shah Ghazi, Urs of
Hazrat Mian Mir and Baba Shah
Jamal.
Mela Chanan Peer
Mela Chanan Peer is highly regarded
of its inscrutability in every aspect:
the saint – his birth and his life’s
work for the less privileged people,
the site of his resting place and
the spiritual energy felt during the
festival.
35 | our Heritage
Born in a Hindu family of Raja
Sadharan, the little boy at birth
recited verses from the Holy
Quran. Apparently, the Raja
ordered that the new born be
put to death. His mother, Rani
Nainoo pleaded to spare his life
and thus abandoned the infant
in the howling wilderness of the
desert. Miraculous he survived
to become Saint Chanan Peer.
The festival is held each year in
Chanan Peer (Cholistan Desert)
by the grave-site of the Peer over
7 consecutive Thursdays from mid
February. Local families loaded with
tents and cooking essentials trot to
the site on their camels and donkeys
and as the festival date approaches
near, a huge crowd gathers here
from all walks in life throughout the
country, including foreigners. Camps
are pitched at a fair distance from
the grave-site; while many would
observe fasting; food may serve
to visitors on some days by local
sponsors. Other than daily rectal of
Sufi poetry and kalam, the devotees
would perform ritual dance and
chant on Sufi music each night by
the camp fire. Couples pray in their
quest of having sons while parents
bring their children and pray for
their prosperity. The festival reaches
climax in its final week and the
thumping of drums and Sufi Kalams
(poetry) echo the entire desert area.
Mela Sehwan Sharif
Sehwan Sharif is renowned for its
high spirit festival on the Urs of Sufi
saint Hazrat Lal Shahbaz Qalandar
(1177- 1274). His real name: Hazrat
Syed Shah Hussain was born in
Marwand (Iran) - now Afghanistan,
to a noble family of Makhdum, Syed
Ibrahim Kabir-ud-Din Mujab, and his
mother was a high-ranking princess.
Since childhood, there were strong
sign of spirituality in his nature.
While he was a caretaker at the
shrine of Imam-e-Hussain (A.S.),
he received a visual message from
Imam-e-Hussain (A.S.) to migrate to
Hindustan (Indo-Pak Subcontinent).
He journeyed to Multan enroute
Mashad and Uchchh Sharif and
finally arrived Sehwan. Then, the
city was under the influence of evil
people. Shahbaz Qalandar appointed
his two devotees Boodla Bahaar
and Sachal Sarmast to spread the
message in every nook and corner of
the city:
“Ali Haq – Ali Haq” (Imam Ali A.S.) Ibn
e Abi Talib A.S. is the ultimate truth.
Shabaz Qalandar not only attained
sainthood, he was naturally gifted
with occult powers of a miracle
maker. Venerated Persian verses
engraved on the shrine of Hazrat Lal
Shahbaz Qalandar emanate devotion,
honor and love for Imam Ali (A.S.
Haidariam Qalandaram Mastam
Banda-e-Murtaza Ali Hastam
Peshwa-e-Tamam Rindhanam
Keh Sag-e-Koo-e-Sher-eYazdanam
our Heritage | 36
meaning:
“I am Haidery (Ali) ibn-e Abu Talib
(A.S.), Qalandar (Free - Free of
Boundaries, the one who has
Control on Dimensions) and Mast
(Intoxicated with inspiration),
I am slave of Imam Ali Murtaza
(A.S.); I am leader of all saints”.
Today, thousands of devotees
gather at the shrine during the
Urs of Shahbaz Qalandar, which is
held around mid Shaaban (Islamic
calendar). In a magical aura
absolved Naatia kalam, kafi and Sufi
lyrics, devotees chant: Dam mast
Qalandar mast – mast, dam mast
qalandar Ali - Ali.
Lahore served as a staging post
to the Central Asian and Turkic
caravans and invading armies.
Blessed with main rivers, the fame
of Lahore as the hub of intercommunal quests for spiritual
attainment had spread outside the
region including Central Asia. Lahore
became to be visited by a wave of
37 | our Heritage
master artisans, masons, artists,
poets and musicians. Locals regards
Lahore as “Daata ki Nagri” (Daata’s
City) and the mausoleum of Data
Ganj Baksh is the revered festive site
on a daily basis. This year marks the
971st Urs of
Abul Hassan Ali Hajveri – Daata
Ganj Baksh
This year marks the 971st Urs of
Abul Hassan Ali Hajveri – Daata Ganj
Baksh (990 – 1077) who preached
the Sufi mission of spreading
love, tolerance and harmony and
emphasizing the inseparable
equality of man. The Mughal king’s
Akbar great-grand son: Dara Shikoh
was among a true disciple of Daata
Ganj Bakhsh. At the festive site of
Data Ganja Bash mausoleum, each
day there is recital of neat khan (in
praise of the holy Prophet PBUH),
Punjabi folk tales in lyricised form
and ongoing prayer session, while
food is distributed (langar) to all
visitors at a designated Khanqah
within the premises of the shrine. A
little fountain (hamam) is believed to
heal the ailment of the devotees.
Urs of Baba Fariduddin r.a.
lt takes place in Pakpattan, annually
from Moharram 1 and prolong for
fifteen-days. The most distinguished
Sufi-saint poet in Punjabi language,
Hazrat Baba Fariduddin Ganj-eShakar r.a. (April 4, 1179 – May 7
1266) was born in Khotwal village
near Lahore. At a young age he
travelled for 18 years, all the Islamic
countries, to meet notable scholars
and saints. He moved the Khanqah
of the Chishtiyya Mission from
Delhi to Ajodhan, now Pak Patan
(district Sahiwal). The Khanqah (a
place of learning for gathering of
Sufi brotherhood) Baba Farid r.a.
had become an eminent university
of moral and spiritual training.
Scholars, dervishes (Holy men) and
Sufis from the region and as far as
Central Asia visited this spiritual
university. Hazrat Baba Farid r.a.
reached the zenith of spiritual glory
through Mujahidas (spiritual fasting)
to gain mastery over the will and self
control. Among his many notable
quotes related to moral values: one
that narrates:
politeness. The saint is revered
by Muslims and non-Muslims for
his universal message, very much
emphasize in the teachings of Quran.
The Urs festivity is enjoyed by a large
number of devotees that gather
by the original site of the shrine
(1400AD) at main Clifton, in the
coastal city Karachi, Sind.
“Khush kalami aik aisa phool hai
jo kabhi nahin murjhata”
(A Humble conversation is a flower
that never dies off) Baba Fariduddin
r.a.
Urs of Abdullah Shah Ghazi
Urs of Abdullah Shah Ghazi is
celebrated over 3 days (12th month
in Islamic calendar) in a festive
spirit. He is said to belong to the
lineage of the prophet Muhammad
(peace be upon him) noted of his
preaching love, tolerance and
our Heritage | 38
Expedition
To Ansoo
Jheel
Dr. Babur Zahiruddin
Many people visit
the KAGHAN NARAN
VALLEY, in summers
but majority of the
tourists stick to the
main roads of the
valley and are
unaware of the
scenic meadows,
lakes, pastures and
beautiful hiking
tracks that are found
in abundance in the
valley
One such lake is ANSOO JHEEL /
Lake, the name given to it because
it is shaped like a tear and is a
beautiful sight to watch. There are
two approaches to ANSOO JHEEL
one from MAHANDIRI to MANOOR
VILLAGE and second from SAIF UL
MALOOQ LAKE.
On reaching SAIF UL MALOOQ
LAKE you will be confronted with
hordes and hordes of jeeps parked
like sardines in the parking area
and you will have problem in
disembarking because of the rush
of the people there in the assembly
area.
This time my expedition to KAGHAN
NARAN VALLEY took me to ANSOO
JHEEL.
At this moment you have to leave
your jeep and make your way to the
restaurant and the dining area for a
quick cup of tea or snacks and the
traditional PAKORAS but the prices
are again three times of what you
find in the plains.
The jeep ride from JHEEL Road
NARAN to SAIF UL MALOOQ takes
about one hour but the distance is
less than 8 kms because of the bad
road conditions.
39 | our Heritage
The time was 11:30 am and I made
my way to the lower terrace to
arrange for the horses for our
expedition to ANSOO JHEEL.
I packed my rucksack with edibles,
juices and drinks and went to
the departure area to mount our
respective horse. As I was the
leader hence a fine sturdy horse by
the name of BADAL was given to
me, RAJA was given to Ibrahim and
SHERA was mounted by Raheel and
Taha the eldest son of Ibrahim.
The first part of the journey is
relatively easy on the bank of lake
SAIF UL MALOOQ which takes
about one hour to circumvent and
navigate round the lake till you
come to some Jhuggis (Mud huts)
where some of the BAKARWALS
(Nomads) live.
From SAIF UL MALOOQ to Base
camp is a ride on horseback
though uneven tracks, small Nalas,
river lets and streams. If you are
on horseback then the poor horse
takes you across these small
obstacles but Raheel and Ibrahim
feeling adventurous started
walking and were on their foot
and had to take off their shoes to
maneuver over these ankle-deep
streams of cold water.
From the base camp to the (PEHLI
TAKKAR) to the first ridge is a
sheer climb of more than 40
degrees on a very small narrow
they were out of sight. I met many
people coming back from ANSOO
JHEEL and enquired about their
completion of the trip but I did not
get any answer in the affirmative.
The third part of the climb from
Second to ridge to third ridge was
not that difficult but fatigue and
tiredness were taking a toll of
our physical abilities and mental
faculties. This was again burdened
by the cold weather and lack of
oxygen which further aggravated
our ordeals.
path. I was a bit out of breath
because of my weight but somehow
or the other managed to climb
behind Ibrahim, Raheel and Taha to
the first ridge.
My speed of climb was very slow
like that of a snail and I started
cursing myself that how come I
landed myself in this unfit position
with obesity and bulkiness which
were not my hallmark about 30
years ago when as a young captain
in the Pakistan Army I was able
to climb peaks which even had a
vertical ascent.
I rested for a while at first ridge
while Ibrahim & company went
ahead to the second ridge and soon
complicated by the quench of thirst
and hungry pangs of the stomach.
This drove us against the wall and
we had to drink from the stream
which came on our way but the
water was very cold and you could
not take more than a few sips.
We were not prepared for the
extreme of the weather and
our water supply and snacks
were running out. Our walk was
tessellated between alternate
bouts of resting and walking
because we got tired very quickly
The drop in temperature was also
causing numbness, headache
and bluish coloration of the skin
but it was sheer willpower and
determination which drove us on
and then we reached the glacier
which was about half a furlong so
taking caution we went to the edge
of the glacier and traversed it by
climbing the rocks on the side.
This took us about 25 minutes to
cross as our speed was hampered.
our Heritage | 40
Ibrahim and Taha were on
horseback whereas Raheel had to
tread on foot which again slowed
down our progress.
Crossing the glacier we came
across small beautiful waterfalls
and cascades but they were on our
left side where as we were walking
on the right side and crossed the
incline in another 15 minutes to
reach a fairly high ground from
where the adjacent peaks look like
miniatures.
From the water falls to the fourth
ridge was a very steep incline which
we managed to climb on foot taking
the help of each other in case of any
slip on the snow.
We reached the summation peak
at about 4.25 pm and lo and
behold it was such a sight which
I will remember all my life. The
View of ANSOO JHEEL was from
2000 feet above and from there
photography and photo session with
the sponsor’s banner was held.
The wind velocity was so high that
it was difficult to hold the banner
at ground level and because of the
opposing air impact the banners
were being blown up like inverted
hammocks.
This was a point of achievement and
ecstasy for me that after my last
climb to the HARAMOSH- I in 1979,
From the fourth ridge to fifth ridge
was a trek on dry ground with steep
ascent again to the sixth ridge again
from where we were joined by some
youngsters who had walked all the
way from Naran to this place.
From the fifth ridge was a very
tricky trek because at this point
you had to leave your horses and
make your way on foot which is
an experience of a life time and
it is something later on you can
tell as a bedtime story to your
grandchildren.
at the height of 24000 feet now I had
climbed to such an height of 14000
feet again at the age of 64 years.
We came to ridge five and collected
our horses and started on the
decent which was very uneventful
and easy and reached the base
camp at about 6.45 and finally
reached the visitors area of SAIF
UL MALOOK LAKE at about 7.30 pm
when darkness was falling and our
physical condition was at its lowest
ebb.
Let this trip narration of mine be
a guide line for youngsters and
families who intend to make this
trip to ANSOO JHEEL next year.
41 | our Heritage
Pearl-Continental Bhurban
our Heritage | 42
Style Rising
from the east in France
Interview by Shazana Anwar
Photography by Didier Teurquetil
How did you get into the world of fashion?
I was an artist since my childhood, I discovered my
passion for fashion very early and I wanted to make a
career so I enrolled myself in a design school, studied
apparel and fashion designing for 3 years, and then I
created my own collection. I believe that was the start
of an adventurous tour in fashion’s world.
Share your profile?
I am very patient when it comes to creating something
but generally I’m quite rigorous in my work. I am a very
stubborn person that whenever I’m working on an idea,
I wouldn’t leave that half way.
What does fashion means to you?
Fashion for me is an art. It allows you to express what is
deep in your heart. I like working with the darker colors.
Pastels and brighter colors only attract me when I’m
immensely happy.
Tell us about your collection?
My greatest inspiration is Bollywood and my collection
comprises the same style. I use simple materials,
natural light, reworked with cut and combined with
more sophisticated materials. There is an alliance in
duality to add value to the product. With these effect of
contrast on textures and colors, every cloth becomes
unique and original as well as enhancing the natural
sensuality of woman who wears it.
“Being a Pakistani woman
does not necessarily
require a face of a
challenge in any country of
the world”
Being a Pakistani women what
were the challenges that you had
to face in France?
Being a Pakistani woman does
not necessarily require a face of
a challenge in any country of the
world. In my situation I was born
in Pakistan and I arrived in France
when I was only 3 years. But still
I’m being called a Pakistani which
I’m really proud of. Working in a
western culture with much more
polished market gives you more
exposure and encourages you to
express yourself to the fullest.
How do you catch up with the
changing trends in fashion?
I consistently keep track of fashion
trends all over the world and at
the same time improvise as well.
It is an ongoing process, and one’s
own personal creativity is also
required to catch up and introduce
new trends
How do you promote Pakistani
fashion trends here in France?
As I said earlier my collection
has Indian influence (bollywood)
and Oriental and Western course,
and this was my strength so far
which made it easy to promote my
brand in France. So the majority
of people know me as a French
Pakistani. However, I will surely be
launching wide range of shalwar
Kameez collection on typical
Pakistani trends.
What is the one thing in life that
you feel you must do?
I still have a lot of things to
accomplish in my life. But if I
were in Pakistan, I would open
a health center in there for the
poor providing quality treatment. I
was always very much interested
in medicine especially herbal
treatments.
I also have a good experience in
this field. I will for sure give this a
go in the near future.
Do you have any plans to
introduce your brand in Pakistan?
Yes it is a project that is in
progress, fashion occupies a very
important place forever in the
minds of Pakistani women.
Any tip or suggestion especially
for the upcoming Pakistani
designers willing to excel in this
field?
Believe in yourself and your
dreams, follow your instincts and
do not give up no matter what the
difficulties you come across. Must
ensure to achieve what you want.
Be determined and work hard to
succeed in the field of fashion,
which is beautiful and interesting.
By: Gulshan Aziz
Swat is a valley and an administrative
district in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
Province of Pakistan. The capital of
Swat is Saidu Sharif, but the main
town in the Swat valley is Mingora.
The Swat Valley was a princely state
in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa until it was
dissolved in 1969 along with many
other princely states like Dir state and
Chitral state. The valley is populated
mostly by ethnic Pashtuns and
Gujjar and Kohistani communities.
The languages spoken in the valley
are Pashto , Gojri, Torwali and
Kohistani. Most non-Pashtoon
people of the area are bilingual and
fluent in Pashto along with their
native languages. Throughout the
district, there is a less tendency
of ethnic discrimination and all
of the inhabitants of Swat refer to
themselves as Pashtoon irrespective
of the communities they belong to.
With high mountains, green
meadows, and clear lakes, it is
a place of great natural beauty
and is popular with tourists.
Queen Elizabeth II during her
visit to the The Yusafzai State
of Swat called it
“the Switzerland of
the east.”
The Valley is bestowed with many
natural scenic sites that are huge
tourist attractions since decades for
our Heritage | 47
both the domestic and international
tourists. Among them are:
Marghazar
Marghazar is 16 km away from Saidu
Sharif and is famous for its “Sufed
Mahal” the white marble palace of the
former Wali (Gujjar Ruler) of Swat. It
was built in 1940 by the first king of
Swat Miangul Abdul Wadud, who is
commonly known as Badshah Sahb.
The palace now serves as a hotel .
The White Palace at Marghazar was
the summer residence of the Wali of
Swat. Located at 7,000 feet above sea
level on Marghazar Hill, it was later
converted into a tourist resort.
Malam Jabba
Malam Jabba (also Maalam Jabba
is a Hill Station in the Karakoram
mountain range nearly 40 km from
Saidu Sharif in Swat Valley. It is
314 km from Islamabad. Malam
Jabba was home to the largest ski
resort in Pakistan. The Malam Jabba
Ski Resort, owned by the Pakistani
Tourism Development Corporation,
had a ski slope of about 800m with
the highest point of the slope 2804 m
(9200 ft) above sea level. Malam
Jabba Ski Resort was the joint
effort of the Pakistan government
with its Austrian counterpart. The
resort was equipped with modern
facilities including roller/ice-skating
rinks, chair lifts, skiing platforms,
telephones and snow clearing
or reproduced coins are sold along
the main street. This is the last Swati
village, offering interesting two-and
three-day walks up to the mountain
villages. The central mosque at
Madyan has carved wooden pillars
with elegant scroll capitals, and its
mud-plastered west wall is covered
with relief designs in floral motifs.
Both bespeak the Swati’s love of
decoration.
Bahrain
equipment. During the Militancy in
Swat the Resort was destroyed but
it is being rebuilt by the Tourism
Corporation Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
through a Lahore based firm.
Swat Museum
Swat Museum is on the east side of
the street, halfway between Mingora
and Saidu. It includes seven galleries
which contain an excellent collection
of Gandhara sculptures taken from
some of the Buddhist sites in Swat,
rearranged and labeled to illustrate
the Buddha’s life story. Terracotta
figurines and utensils, beads,
precious stones, coins, weapons and
various metal objects illustrate daily
life in Gandhara. The ethnographic
section displays the finest examples
of local embroidery, carved wood and
tribal jewellery.
Miandam
Miandam is a charming hill station
in the foothills of Hindu Kush
mountains. It is located at a distance
of 55 km away from Mingora, and 56
kilometers (35 mi) from Saidu Sharif.
It is a very picturesque tourist spot at an
elevation of 1,800 meters (5,900 feet)
above sea level and is enriched in
medicinal plants, owing to which the
town is the site of a World Wide Fun
Nature project promoting sustainable
harvesting of medicinal plants, and
now about 1,000 people are dependent
on the medicinal plant trade for their
entire income.The primary economy
of the region is based on tourism and
agriculture.
Madyan
By the time you reach this small
town at 1320 m and about 60 km
from Mingora, the mountains have
closed in and the valley is almost
snug. Here one senses why Swat is
so popular among the tourists. There
are a lot of embroidered shawls
in the Bazars of Madyan. At 1,321
metres (4,335 feet) above sea level, it
is a large town and has many hotels
in all price ranges and some good
tourist shopping. Antique and modern
shawls, traditional embroidery, tribal
jewellery, carved wood and antique
Bahrain is a popular hill station of
the Swat District. Pakistan. It got its
name (lit. “two rivers”) because of its
location at the confluence of the Daral
and Swat rivers. The region is famous
for its riverside tourist resorts and
local handicrafts. Bahrain offers a
superb view of gushing river Daral
and natural waterfalls. The people
of Bahrain are expert in the cottage
industry of wood carving, that’s why
wood work can be seen everywhere
in the region. A charming trek can
be enjoyed from here up to Daral &
Saidgai lakes. It is the cultural center
of the Torwali-speaking community.
Kalam
Kalam is a cool heaven for tourists in
the northern upper reaches of Swat
Valley along the bank of Suvastu
River. It is surrounded by lush green
hills, thick forests and bestowed
with mesmeric lakes, meadows and
waterfalls which are worth seen. It is
the birth place of River Swat which
forms with confluence of two major
tributaries of Gabral river & Ushu
river. There are a lot of grand hotels
in Kalam, where one can stay for
night and enjoy the cool breeze of
Swat river.
Usho
Usho is a hill station in the north
east of Kalam valley. It is situated
at a distance of 8 kilometers (5.0
mi) from Kalam and 123 kilometers
(76 mi) km from Saidu Sharif at the
height of 2,300 metres (7,550 feet). It
is accessible through a non metalled
road from Kalam by jeeps only.
our Heritage | 48
Utror
Utror is a popular hill Station and one
of the beautiful valley in the region,
surrounded by snow clad mountains
and beautiful lake of the area.
Kundol lake is one of the world most
beautiful lake located in this part of
the Swat Valley.
Ghabral
of Utror valley. One can easily access
it from Kalam via Utror from where a
link road ends in a green valley called
Ladu in the foothills of the lake.
Bashigram Lake
Bashigram Lake is situated to
the east of Bashigram valley near
Madyan. It takes almost forty to fifty
Utror valley. The name Spin Khwar
has a clear significance as a small
white stream in the east flows down
to the lake from the surrounding
mountains and is a major source
of water for the lake. The lake is
accessible through two tracks, one
from Kundal and the other from Ladu
valley.
Ghabral is a scenic hill station of
Swat Valley. The valley is surrounded
by Chitral District in the north,
Utror valley in the south and south
west, upper Dir district in the west
and Bhan and Mahodand valleys
in the east. In Utror and Gabral, 44
medicinal plants are collected during
the months of May, June, July and
August.
Mahodand
Mahodand valley, in the North of
Kalam, is famous not only among
nature lovers and escapists but also
the exotic trout fish hunters. The
small hamlets that are scattered
in the mountains and the bellowing
smoke that spirals into the sky from
the houses are some, which lives in
the memory forever.
Pari (Khapiro) Lake
Pari Lake is one of the lakes in
Swat region which is located at a
very high altitude in the foot of the
tallest peak in the range with a
considerable depth. The name Pari
or Khapiro is given to the lake due to
the widespread belief that the lake
is the abode of fairies where they
live and bathe in the cool, pure and
clear water of the lake. It is located to
North-east of Utror valley and can be
accessed only by trekking.
Kundol Lake
The pastoral valley of Swat has
abundance of precious resorts of
nature where one can find solace
and respite from the never-ending
struggle of life. Kundal or Kandolo
Lake is one such place here upon
which the Maestro of nature has
spent extra time and effort to paint.
Kundal Lake is situated in the north
our Heritage | 49
minutes to reach this picturesque
valley inhibited by simple and
hospitable folk. From here, trekking
of four to five hours, lands you in the
realm of a serene and enchanting
lake of Bashigram.
Spin Khwar (White Stream)
Lake
Spin Khwar is a beautiful lake hidden
in the lap of mountains towards the
north of Kundal Lake and east of
Daral Lake
Daral lake is situated to the northeast
of Sidgai Lake and can be accessed
through Saidgai after two three hours
rigorous trekking. The trail to Daral
is full of fun and amusement because
it runs over sky touching heights of
the mountains provides spectacular
sights and panoramas for the beauty
hungry eyes of nature lovers.
By: Dr. Shaukat Mehmood
A qawwali sung by many Indian, Pakistani and
Bangladeshi singers and musicians like Noorjahan,
Ustad Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, Abida Parveen, Reshman
and Runa Laila, “Lal meri pat rakhiyo bla ...” echoes
the world over today. This poem was originally written
by Amir Khusraw, then further modified by Baba
Bulleh shah. It is interesting to note the same poem is
modified and is sung by Hindu Sindhis. “O Lal Meri Pat
Rakhiyo Bala Jhule lalan.....” to praise Hindu mystic
Jhulelal.
Many a city in Islamic world and
India and Pakistan has the post fix
of shareef or sharif with them like
Ajmer Sharif, Golra Sharif, Taunsa
Sharif, Uch Sharif. This simply refers
to the holiness of the city or the
respect which people assign to these
towns.
The city of Sehwan is also known
as Sehvan Sharif because of the
tomb of the saint that lies in the
town. Sehwan Sharif is a city
located in Jamshoro District in the
Sindh province. Sehwan is of great
antiquity and stands on the west
bank of the Indus River, 80 miles
(130 km) North-west of
Hyderabad, which is on
the other bank. The exact
etymology of the name
Sehwan is not known but
it seems probable that
the name Sehwan is a
corruption of Siwistan
(Seevistan), the kingdom
of Raja Dahir which
even extended to Punjab
under the name Shivi or
Sibi. May be present day town
of Sibi has some relevance to
it. It was significant enough
during the 8th century to be
conquered by Muhammad bin
Qasim in 711, and two centuries
later by Mahmud of Ghazni. An
abortive attempt was made by
the Mughal emperor Humayun to
capture it on his way to Umarkot but
he failed. The city was later captured
by his son Akbar. Before this, it was
the capital of the Thatta Kingdom
under Jani Beg. Jani Beg’s tomb, a
beautifully stone-carved structure
sands on the Makli Hill in the very
close proximity of Thatta.
For centuries Sehwan - or
Seevistan has emained a
centre and hub of traders and
travelers. The city had many
caravansara’is at that time.
After sinking into oblivion
for quite a long time the
city regained its importance
with the arrival of the saint
commonly known as Shahbaz
Qalandar. The saint’s stature
is so monumental that no
other saint can compete with
him in Sindh similarly his
shrine is an edifice which
over-shines other religious
edifices of the area.
His full name is Sayyid Muhammad
Usman Marwandi, Hazrat Lal
Shahbaz Qalandar was son of
Ibrahim Mujaab. He lived in
Marwand (Afghanistan) when the
Ghaznavid (977-1186) and Ghurids
(879-1215) ruled in South Asia. The
saint was also a contemporary of
Rumi (1207-1273) an of Sayyid Jalal
al-Din Bukhari of Uch Sharif (11991291). In Multan he met Baha-uddin Zakariya of the Suhrwardiyya,
Baba Fariduddin Ganjshakar of the
Chishtiyya and Sayyid Jalaluddin
Bukhari. The friendship of these four
became legendary, they were known
as the Chahar Yar (the four friends).
According to some historians the
four friends visited various parts of
Sindh, Punjab together.
His favourite disciple was Bodla
Bahaar, more popularly known as
Bodla Bahar Sikandar. A legend is
related about him that he used to
sweep the place, where the tomb
of Shahbaz Qalandar stands today;
with his beard singing “mera Lal
aayega” many years before actually
the saint arrived in Sehwan. The
shrine of Bodla Bahar is near the
old fortress. A group of singers
there celebrate the legends of Lal
TAIL-PIECE:
After his long travels to Madina,
Karbala and Mashhad to seek
spiritual guidance he arrived in
Sehwan in 1251 and settled there
and establishes a khanqah where
he was eventually buried. There is
evidence of his presence in Sindh
in 1196 when he met Pir Haji Ismail
Panhwar of Paat (history unknown)
and he is believed to have arrived in
Sehwan around 1251. His (khanqah)
was a meeting house where he
taught Fuqhai Islam and wrote his
treatises Mizan-us-Surf, Kism-eDoyum, Aqd and Zubdah. Shahbaz
Qalandar was a profound scholar of
religions, fluent in many languages
including Pashto, Persian, Turkish,
Arabic, Sindhi and Sanskrit. Lal
Shahbaz lived a celibate life and died
in the year 1274 at the age of 97.
Shahbaz and Bodla Bahaar. People
of Sehwan tell a strange story about
Bodla Bahar. The story is thus
narrated that the ruler of Sehwan
grew fearsome of the popularity of
Lal Shahbaz and Bodla Bahaar and
ordered Bodla Bahaar to be chopped
into pieces. The soldiers obeyed and
the bits of his body were scattered
all around. “When Lal Shahbaz
heard of the incident, he called the
name of his favourite disciple and
his chopped-up body magically
reassembled to answer his master’s
call. When the ruler still did not heed
to Lal Shahbaz’s preaching, Bodla
Bahaar turned the whole fortress
upside down. People claim that the
ruins still show an upside-down
settlement.” Believe it or not.
The name Sehwanistan, as it was
known until recently, derives from
Sivistan, city of Shiva, and the
modern faqirs still dress like Shivite
yogis, in torn clothes, with matted
hair.
“Many of the proselytizing saints
who arrived in Sindh from Iran or
Middle East gave their mission
a boost by putting down roots in
ancient Hindu places of worship,
or even by allowing themselves
to be identified with Hindu gods.
Sehwan Sharif, where Lal Shahbaz
Qalandar’s tomb is located, is the
site of an important Shiva centre.
Lal Shahbaz Qalandar also used to
be called Raja Bhartari by Hindus.
The words Jhule Lal is one of the
many Hindu names for god of water.
At least until the nineteenth century,
it was believed by Muslims and
Hindus that the Indus waxed and
waned according to Lal Shahbaz
Qalandar’s whim.”
our Heritage | 52
By: Gulshan Aziz
The City of Flowers- Peshawar is
the Oldest Living City of South Asia.
Due to its strategic location, it has
always been attracting adventurous,
merchants, emperors, saints, monks
and tourists from all over the world
and for this reason variety of culture,
traditions and heritage is depicted
in the city from Central Asian to
Persian to Mughal, Sikhs, Hindus
and British, we are a blend of all and
that’s the reason for our uniqueness.
The word Sethi is derived from
Sanskrit which means the head of
merchants. The Sethi’s of Peshawar
are known to have migrated from
Bhera situated on the left bank
of river Jehlum at the time when
the Sikhs established their rule
in Punjab. They first settled at
Chamkani a small village across the
river Bara and then after a while
shifted to Peshawar. From here they
spread their international trade to
central Asia, Afghanistan, China,
Russia, and to other countries. Their
lucrative trade brought in huge
profits, which put the family on a
sound financial footing.
The Sethi’s were not only rich but
also great philanthropists. They
are known to have completed
several works of public utility such
as construction of mosques and
bridges. Haji Karim Baksh Sethi will
be remembered in history for his
donations for the construction of
Islamia College Peshawar.
Mohallah Sethian
is a living example
demonstrating the
splendid past of Sethi
family. This majestic
street is located behind
Bazar Kalan, and can
be approached by the
road from Chowk Yadgar
leading to Gorkhuttree.
More than hundred and fifty years
ago, interconnected houses were
built here. Hidden inside these
houses, covering their ceilings and
walls like a mantle, is decorative
work of exquisite quality. These
highly ornamented houses are
typical of the domestic architecture
of these rich merchants. They have
highly decorative carved wooden
door, balconies, mirrored, carved and
painted reception rooms, ventilated
basements, and multi storied houses
with open upper storey for catching
fresh air thus coping with the
harsh weather of Peshawar both in
summer and winter. The first house
was built by Haji Gul Ahmad in 1832.
A total seven such houses were built
in the street.
The Department of Archaeology
& Museums purchased one of
the houses, which is known as
“The Sethi house”. The house
was constructed in 1884 by Karim
Bakhsh Sethi which took thirty-five
years to complete.
53 | our Heritage
The house is highly embellished
building in a typical oriental style of
domestic architecture, presenting
highly carved wooden doors,
windows, decorated and painted
ceilings and elaborate system of
light penetrating and air movement.
The house which once was proud of
its majestic beauty, started losing
its grandeur after the death of its
owner. His successors didn’t keep
its maintenance and the house
fell into mystery. People from
different communities occupy it.
It remained with them for thirty
years. During this period much
of the decoration, ornamentation
and structure of the building were
destroyed by inhabitants or decayed
naturally. Finally the Department
of Archaeology and Museums
formerly N.W.F.P purchased it
from the owners for the purpose of
conservation and renovation of this
historical building and to preserve it
for the coming generations.
The courtyard is surrounded by
richly carved wooden grills. Inter
connected rooms are constructed on
all the four sides which are almost
rectangular in shapes, while the
windows open towards the courtyard.
Inside, the rooms are beautiful
decorations of floral and geometrical
patterns in multiple colors. The
ceilings are adorned with excellent
wood work and mirrors, in different
geometrical designs and colors. An
interesting feature in all the rooms
is the Chinidaan. Stairs are provided
on all three sides of the house which
lead up to the first storey. There is
an open courtyard on the first storey
along with two large and two small
rooms.
The building is
constructed on a raised
platform having three
basements of different
sizes. The main house
is built around a central
courtyard which is 10.35m
square in plain containing
an octagonal fountain in
the center.
An interesting aspect of the twelve
rooms’ house is that it consists of
only four washrooms as in the older
days they weren’t that common.
Colourful glass ceilings with
geometrical designs, woodwork
with engravings of various splendid
designs on walls, a big resting place,
made of wood and called Takhte-Sulaimani, to take sunshine in
winter, beautiful ventilators, slanting
window-shades, wooden wall
cupboards, chimneys and red bricks
stairs with projected wooden frames
are some of the other prominent
features of the house.
our Heritage | 54
Pearl Continental Rawalpindi
three more PCH
properties at Multan, Mirpur and Hayatabad. Besides the chain
of 5-Star hotels, PSL owns sister concern in budget category
including Hotel One.
55 | our Heritage
.
57 | our Heritage
our Heritage | 58
By: Dr. Shaukat Mehmood
The architectural remains of Sukkur
are neither many nor of substantial
proportions. The most interesting
among them is a small complex
comprising three monuments: the
tower of Mīr Masūm, the domed
octagonal sarāi and the gaurkhānah
or goorkhana. All these monuments
owe their glory to Mīr Muhammad
Masūm, the well known author of
the Tārīkh-i Sindh (more commonly
known as the Tārīkh-i Masūmī)
which he compiled in 1009 AH/1600
AD.
Mīr Masūm is said to have built many
building in and around Sukkur.
He was a man of many
qualities. He was an expert
calligrapher, a renowned
poet, a celebrated historian,
an acknowledged tabīb,
a gallant soldier and a
proficient diplomat.
His great-grandfather was a sayyid
and hailed from Tirmidh. Mīr Masūm
had a chance meeting with Khwājah
59 | our Heritage
Nizām al-Dīn Ahmad Harawī in
963/1556. Nizām al-Dīn was at that
time busy writing the Tabaqāt-i
Akbarī and he invited the Mīr to join
him in this venture; the Mīr accepted.
This gave him access to Akbar. He
fought under Khān-i Khānān for the
conquest of Sindh for Akbar and won
his laurels in the campaign. He was
honoured for his services and was
appointed ambassador to Iran. After
Akbar’s death Jahāngīr made him
the amīn al-mulk of upper Sindh.
He established his headquarters
at Bhakkar and later died there in
1019/1610.
Abu’l-Fazl writes that
when the Mīr went to Iran,
at every prominent stage,
all the way from India to
Isfahān and Tabrīz, he
recorded the facts of his
travels on masjids and
other buildings.
He was an accomplished
calligrapher and the inscriptions
on the gateway of the fort at Agra
and also those of the Jami Masjid
of Fatihpūr Sikrī are his works.
The Emperor Jahāngīr in his Tuzk
records that there was an inscription
on the main gate of the tomb of
Salīm Chishtī, of which a qitah
was composed and written by Mīr
Masūm. The pompous flowery style
of this inscription, which uses words
for the sake of using them, is worth
nothing.
The buildings comprising the
architectural complex at Sukkur look
much better from a distance than at
close quarters. These buildings are
plain and uninteresting structures
having no special architectural
pretensions. The plain plastered
exteriors are relieved by a few
solitary bands of tiles and by isolated
patches of tile work of very inferior
quality both in colour and technique.
A peculiar pigment used here is a
dirty brownish purple which is not
found elsewhere as at Hala, Thatta,
Maklī or Sehwān. The finish of the
tiles is coarse and the patterns
are large, lacking both assured
technique and mastery of drawing.
In spite of all these shortcomings
the site is a potential record of our
history in general and that of Sukkur
in particular. The old monuments
of Sukkur have a character of their
own.
The most conspicuous feature on
the skyline of the city of Sukkur is
the tall minār of Mir Masum. It is
in no way like the Hiran Minar of
Shei khūpūra and is in no way to be
compared with the Qutb or with the
minārs of the Mughals. In its very
appearance the minaret appears
to have been built of plasticine or
pastry dough rather than brick
and mortar. It has no very graceful
proportions either. The top story,
which in most cases has a delicate
gallery and balustrade around it
and a fine canopy resting on slender
columns is void of all such features.
The top story is in fact surrounded
by an iron cage probably fixed within
the last century by the Sukkur
municipality. This emphasizes
the ungainliness of the top of the
minaret. It appears that there was
no formal balustrade around the top
storey.
The minār rises to a
height of 30m and has a
circumference of 25.20m
at the base. It is out of
perpendicular. The minār
was built at least partially
by Mīr Masum himself in
the year 1003/1594. Its date
of construction is inscribed
in a chronogram in an arch
above its entrance.
It is generally believed that this
minār was completed in the year
1013/1604 by Mīr Bazurg Munawwar,
the son of Mir Masūm.
The entrance of the minār is
constructed in a peculiar fashion.
Three arches are set one above the
other, the lower most one providing
access to the interior. These
arches are set in a tall rectangular
frame. The middle arch is blind
and comprises a slab containing
epigraphy while the top arch is again
meant to admit light and air to the
interior of the minār.
The minār is wholly built of red brick
manufactured locally. The tiles used
to form circular bands around the
body of the minār are of low quality.
The only plastered portion is the
large vertical rectangular containing
three arches, and the crowning
chamber having four openings.
There are two bands of tile work
around the body of the minār
transforming the whole structure
into three stories, the fourth
comprising the crowning part is now
known locally as the pinjrah (cage).
There is absolutely no difference
between the three major stories
except that each succeeding storey
is smaller in circumference at the
respective base due to the taper of
the minār. The middle storey has
two large arched openings to admit
light and air, while the first and third
stories have small apertures for the
same purpose. The crowning part
is a small circular room with four
arched openings set in rectangular
frames. Close to the Minar-i Masumi
our Heritage | 60
calligraphy was extremely elegant.
The domed octagonal building was
erected by the Mīr as a rest house,
and was built in the year 1004/159596.
The building has four arched
entrances, one on each of the cardinal
sides. The diagonal sides are provided
with blind arches and thereby
symmetry has been maintained on the
eight sides of the octagon. The same
arrangement of openings is carried
out on the upper portion. The arches
above the openings are open while
the alternative arches are once again
blind. The lower portion of the upper
openings has a flat parapet with no
The two octagonal stories are
crowned by a smaller hexadecagon.
Each of its sixteen sides have an arch
within a rectangular frame. Each
arched opening is followed by a blind
arch. This storey has a parapet made
of blind merlons.
The building is crowned by a dome
resting on a low drum composed of
sixteen sections and decorated with
various patterns of brickwork. The
apex of the dome has a finial whose
foliate base appears to have been tied
above by three circular mouldings.
These are crowned by a bud-like
moulding.
City of Sukkur as seen from Minar
is a sara’i supposed to have been
built by the Mir as well.
The founding of religious and secular
buildings may be said to have
been the hobby of Mīr Masūm. He
ornamented his buildings with his
own designs in tiles and stone while
“in making chronograms and cutting
inscriptions, he had no equal.” His
61 | our Heritage
decoration, carving or grille work.
The openings above the east and west
sides are provided with cut stone
balconied windows.
On the exterior a band of tiles runs
above the windows immediately above
the cornice. Above this are several
courses of bricks below the tiled
parapet.
The structure is built of bricks similar
to those used for the construction
of Minār-i Masūmī. Stonework
occurs in the balconied openings,
the columned gallery inside and the
finial of the dome. It is also used for
various inscribed slabs. Tiles are used
sparingly in this building, especially
on the outer surface; they are the
poor quality.
The entrance to the building is
through four arched entrances.
The first story internally rises to
an approximate height of 4.50m. At
this height the interior is encircled
by a narrow gallery supported
on slim octagonal columns with
square capitals. The gallery has a
balustrade about 45cm in height
made of terracotta in geometric
patterns. The underside of the
gallery bears numerous inscriptions
in nastaclīq in Persian.
So far as decoration is
concerned, the interior
of this building is more
impressive than the
exterior. The whole of the
interior is punctuated with
chīnī work or coloured
pottery decoration.
The rectangular frames of the
arches are made of bricks laid in
Thatta and Maklī style that is, bands
of white plaster make horizontal
lines on the sides of the arches and
vertical lines above and below them.
The spandrels are filled with tilework. Four sides have spandrels
with tiles bearing geometric patterns
while the other four bear tiles with
floral patterns. Above the arches and
their spandrels and following the
brickwork are four horizontal panels
on each side. Each of these bear a
hemistich in Persian in nastaclīq
worked in stone.
This arrangement of bricks, tiles
and inscription is carried up to the
base of the dome. The interior of the
dome bears an elaborated geometric
design, a simpler version of that at
the mosque of Shāhjahān at Thatta.
It is an excellent arrangement: an
eight sided star is placed right at the
apex and from it spring out various
geometric shapes which travel down
to create a chevron design above
the arches of the 16-sided stories.
I have no doubt that if this work
is of Mīr Masūm he was a great
genius. The chevron designs formed
by brickwork are similar to those
existing in the Tomb of Mīrzā Tughril
Beg at the Maklī Hill near Thatta.
our Heritage | 62
By: Dr. Babur Zahiruddin
Lately the Northern areas
of Pakistan have now
become more accessible
during the past decade
because of better logistics
and improvement in the
infrastructure of the road
networks of northern
areas in the shape of hotel
accommodation, food
outlets and availability of
local guides who can help
you to access the remote
areas of Pakistan.
After the 2005 earthquake
the road from BALAKOT
to NARAN and onwards to
BABU SAR PASS has been
completely rebuilt and it is
a pleasure to drive on this
road except for a few bad
patches between BAISAL to
BARAWAI.
Many of you must have
visited KAGHAN valley
lately, but how many of you
came back without tasting
the delicacy of northern
area called the TROUT.
Trout is the common name for a
number of species of freshwater
fish belonging to the genera
Oncorhynchus, Salmo and
Salvelinus.
to define a particular color pattern
as belonging to a specific breed;
however, in general, wild fish are
claimed to have more vivid colors
and patterns.
Trout are closely related to salmon
and char (or charr): species that
occur in the same genera as do the
trout.
Trout are usually found in cool clear
streams and lakes (10–16 °C). Young
trout are referred to as troutlet,
troutling or fry. They are distributed
naturally throughout North America,
northern Asia and Europe.
Most trout such as lake trout
live in freshwater lakes or rivers
exclusively, while there are others
such as the rainbow trout which may
either live throughout their lives in
fresh water, or spend two or three
years at sea before returning to
fresh water to spawn, a habit more
typical of salmon. A rainbow trout
that spends time in the ocean is
called a steelhead.
Trout are an important food source
for humans and wildlife including
brown bears, birds of prey such as
eagles, and other animals.
Trout that live in different
environments can have dramatically
different colorations and patterns.
Mostly, these colors and patterns
form as camouflage, based on the
surroundings, and will change as
the fish moves to different habitats.
Trout which have newly returned
from the sea, can look very silvery,
while the same fish living in a small
stream or in an alpine lakes could
have pronounced markings and
more vivid colorations, it is also
possible that in some species this
signifies that they are ready to mate.
They can look like an entirely
different fish outside of spawning
season. It is virtually impossible
our Heritage | 63
The closest resemblance of seema
trout and other trout family can be
found in the Himalayan Regions of
India, Nepal, Bhutan, Pakistan and in
Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan.
Trout generally feed on other
fish, and soft bodied aquatic
invertebrates, such as flies, mayflies,
caddisflies, stoneflies,mollusks and
dragonflies. In lakes, various species
of zooplankton often form a large
part of the diet. Trout may feed on
shrimp, mealworms, bloodworms,
insects, small animal parts, and eel.
As a group, trout are somewhat bony,
but the flesh is generally considered
to be tasty. The flavor of the flesh
is heavily influenced by the diet of
the fish. For example, trout that
have been feeding on crustaceans
tend to be more flavorful than those
feeding primarily on insect life.
Additionally, they provide a good fight
when caught with a hook and line,
and are sought after recreationally
as an anglers sport. Because of
their popularity, trout are often
raised on fish farms and planted into
heavily fished waters, in an effort
to mask the effects of overfishing.
Farmed trout and char are also sold
commercially as food fish.
It was on 09th of August 2015 while
returning from NARAN after my
successful expedition to ANSOO
JHEEL and surroundings that after
proceeding for 30 minutes we saw
many road side cafes sporting the
sign of live Trout for eating. The
women folk who were accompanying
me made me halt as they were
adamant and obdurate not to budge
and inch further without savoring
the delicacy of THE NARAN TROUT.
This came as jolt to me as there was
already delay on my travelling time.
The only solution of this demand of
the home ministries was to give into
their demands. We got down at a
road side restaurant in JALWAHRAN
where the women folk threw caution
to the wind and took off their shoes
along with the children and went to
the river bank to stand in the cold
deep gushing water.
about Rs.3500 to 4000 per kilo and
their taste is much better than the
artificial ones and are also called the
Brown Trout.
Fresh running water
is required to keep this fish
alive and in these ponds
the temperature is made
colder to 10 to 16 degrees C
otherwise the fish will die.
(Gram Flour) in a small quantity and
finally marinated with lemon. Trout
is sometimes prepared by smoking
on grill.
The fish is then fried in very hot oil
and served in small pieces along
with mint sauce, ketchup and
freshly baked crisp Nan from the
Tandoor.
The methodology of eating this fish
also requires patience, dexterity and
meticulous fingers to sort out the
spicules which are very fine and
sometimes not visible to the naked
I was left with the restaurant staff
to order Trout fish for eating which
they take out by the help of a net
from small fish pond which has
running cold water. This trout fish is
a delicacy of the northern areas and
a sumptuous meal of trout should
not be missed when one visits the
northern areas.
Here I would like to explain and
elaborate for my readers that these
trout’s which you see and eat on the
road side ponds are not the naturally
occurring trout but in fact are raised
from trout seedlings and nurtured
and reared for maturity in trout
farms which are found in abundance
in Kaghan Valley especially in
Parras, Jared, and Sheenu, which
are small hamlets on the road to
Balakot from Naran.
As the trout was being cleaned,
processed and cooked I interacted
with the cook and asked him about
the recipe for cooking the Trout.
As of 2014, onwards an enzymatic
process has been used to make a
high-protein fish feed from barley,
which is suitable for trout and it
seedlings.
The trout is first cleaned of its fins,
head, tail and its stomach contents
which are used to make feed for the
fishes then it cleaned with water and
tinged with salt and left for a few
minutes to dry.
These artificially nurtured trout fish
cost about Rs. 1200 to 1800/- per
Kilo but the one caught from Kunar
River by anglers and netting cost
The recipe for cooking the trout is
first to add Salt then Chat Masala
then mixed Masala then fish Masala,
Black pepper white vinegar, Basen
eye hence the tactile sensitization of
your fingers is required to make the
right morsel for eating lest a spicule
finds it way into your throat which
may cause a minor emergency.
Next time when you go to the
Northern areas the savoring of
this sumptuous, scrumptious and
tasty Trout Fish the delicacy of the
KAGHAN VALLEY must be on top
priority of your itinerary.
our Heritage | 64
By: Dr. Babur Zahiruddin
About two and half decades back it
was Russian invasion of Afghanistan
in 1986 that the events in FATA and
across the DURAND LINE caught my
attention.
I started my research on the
historical significance of DURAND
LINE and FATA and was amazed
at the rich history and geography
which we have as a legacy and as a
Pakistani one should feel proud of.
DURAND LINE was demarcated in
1893 under the aegis of Sir Mortimer
Durand who was a British diplomat
in India and later on the Lord Curzon
Accord of 1902, came in to existence
under which the seven Agencies
and seven F.R’s of F.A.T.A came in to
being.
Sir, Mortimer Durand
negotiated with Abdur
Rahman Khan, the Amir of
Afghanistan, the frontier
between modern-day
Pakistan and Afghanistan.
The Durand Line is named
after him and remains the
international boundary
between Afghanistan and
Pakistan,
Sir Mortimer Durand
officially recognized by most nations
but an ongoing point of contention
between the two countries.
In 1893, Sir Mortimer Durand was
deputed to Kabul by the government
of British India for the purpose of
settling an exchange of territory
required by the demarcation of the
boundary between north eastern
Afghanistan and the Russian
possessions, and in order to discuss
with the Amir Abdur Rahman Khan
other important matters.
In 1893 a Royal Commission was
established to demarcate the
boundary between Afghanistan and
the British-governed India. The
65 | our Heritage
two parties camped at Parachinar,
now part of FATA Pakistan, near
Khost Afghanistan. From the British
side the camp was attended by
Mortimer Durand and Sahibzada
Abdul Qayyum, the Political Agent
for Khyber. The Afghans were
represented by Sahibzada Abdul
Latif and Governor Sardar Shireendil
Khan representing Amir Abdur
Rahman Khan. The Durand Road in
Lahore is also named after him.
The biographies of such people
has also been of great interest to
me and I started reading about the
life history of Sir Henry Mortimer
Durand, (14 February 1850 – 8 June
1924).
He was born at Sehore, Bhopal,
India, he was the son of Sir Henry
Marion Durand, and he was educated
at Black Heath Proprietary School,
and Tonbridge School.
Durand entered the Indian
Civil Service in 1873. During
the Second Anglo-Afghan
War (1878–1880) he was
Political Secretary at Kabul.
From 1884 to 1894, he was
Foreign Secretary of India.
Durand was appointed
Minister plenipotentiary at
Tehran in 1894.
During my research on his life I
came to know that he died in Polden,
Somerset, England in 1924, but
from my interaction with many
people from FATA and N.W.F.P it
came as a surprise to me that Sir
Durand is buried in a churchyard
in D. I Khan. Somehow or the other
my curious and insatiable mind
was never at rest when there were
two paradoxical situations which
confronted me.
Sir Mortimer Durand
Finally on 04th September 2015, my
training assignment took me to D.
I Khan and after I had completed
my training session that I put this
question to my participants and
apprised them of the great question
mark which was churning like a cog
in the wheel in my mind.
One of my participants volunteered
to show me the grave of Sir Durand
in the Thomas church on the circular
road in the cantt area. It was about
6.30 in the evening when I was still
wearing my best suit that we stopped
at the security check post of D.I
Khan Cantonment where my army
credentials came in handy and I was
waved passed the security barrier
and on the right side was SAINT
THOMAS CHURCH.
On one hand Wikipedia and history
books clearly stated that he died in
Polden Somerset England, but the
narratives of the locals from FATA
and K.P.K revealed that he was
buried in D. I Khan.
our Heritage | 66
As I was disembarking from my
vehicle when one church attendant
asked me where I was going to
which I replied that I had come see
the grave of Sir Durand on this he
became quite excited and opened the
gates of church for me to take my
car inside.
I parked my car in front of main door
of the church and started walking
towards the back side of the church
which was quite a walk for me as my
expensive Brock shoes were already
pinching me as I was standing
the whole day from 9 am to 5 pm
during my training and secondly I
had to walk on uneven grounds with
dugouts and huge grass which was
an impediment to my progress.
Finally after five minutes of laborious
walk that I reached the grave of Sir
Durand but my nearly 30 years of
esotericism and recondite thinking
came to an ease and the question
that had been boggling my mind for
the past three decades was finally
answered and my insatiable quest
for an answer came to an end.
I started taking photographs of the
grave and tried to bring out the
inscriptions and epitaph written on
it and it was time for me to shout
Eureka like Archimedes.
The person buried there was
Sir Hennery Marion Durand
and not Sir Mortimer
Durand actually they are
Father and Son.
Sir Henry Marion Duran was born on
6th November 1812 and died on 1st
January 1871 at the age of 58 years
in Tank now part of D.I Khan
Major-General Sir Henry Marion
Durand, was a British Indian Army
Engineer officer and a colonial
administrator.
After training at the East India
Company›s Military Seminary at
Addiscombe (1827-8), Durand left
Britain for India in 1829, arriving
in May 1830. He served initially as
67 | our Heritage
Second Lieutenant in the Bengal
Engineers. He attained the rank of
Major-General, and served in the
First Anglo-Afghan War (1839–1842),
and the Second Anglo-Sikh War
(1848–1849).
During the Indian war of
independence (1857–1858), he
served as a military commander
in western Malwa. Promoted to
major-general, he served finally as
Lieutenant-Governor of the Punjab
(1 June 1870 – 1 January 1871).
The death of Henry Marion Durand
is well documented that on the
evening of 31st December 1870, he
was thrown from an elephant as
he attempted to pass under a low
gateway arch in the city of Tank.
The story behind this episode is that
the tribal’s of that area invited him
to visit one of the narrow bazaars
in Tank which had a high arched
gate under which Henry Marion
Durand had passed many times but
the tribal’s in order to avenge the
invasion and privacy of the homes
at the hands of the British made
the arch very low to which Sir,
Henry Marion Durand had no fore
knowledge.
He fell heavily, and died the following
day and was buried in a St. Thomas
Church in Dera Ismail Khan, Khyber
Pakhtunkhwa.
Thus my quest for knowledge and
adventurism came to an end for the
time being…………..but there will be
more areas of Pakistan to be seen
and more stories to be told, so why
don’t you be a part of my team in my
next outdoor venture.
Pearl-Continental Lahore
our Heritage | 68
Karachi
Rawalpindi
Peshawar
Muzaffarabad
BHURBAN
LAHORE
ISLAMABAD
KARACHI