fresh pickings

As seen in the
August–September 2009 issue
of Taste of the South.
fresh pickings
muscadines
Among the curling tendrils and deep green foliage,
glistening globes of sweet goodness wait to be picked
and savored by those who know the treasure within.
By Karen Callaway / Photography by Kimberly Finkel Davis / Food photography by Sarah Dunlap
food styling by Chantel Lambeth / Photo styling by Molly Smith
78 taste of the south august september 2009
W
When Florentine navigator
Verrazzano explored North Carolina’s
Cape Fear River Valley in the early 16th
century, he reported an abundance of
large, light-colored grapes growing
wild. This big white grape was the
scuppernong variety of the muscadine,
a plump, thick-skinned grape native
to the Southern region of the United
States. Early European settlers to the
area named this fruit after the muscat
grapes of their homeland. It is thought
that all muscadines that grow from
Kentucky to Florida to Texas are descended from one mother plant—one
offspring in Georgia is rumored to be
400 years old and still producing fruit.
There are more than 300 muscadine cultivars, ranging in color from
bronze to purple to black, and a rare
white variety. All are harvested in late
summer. With diameters up to an inch
and a half, muscadines are sometimes
twice the size of average grapes. The
fruit is made up of four parts: the
outer skin or hull, the pulp, the seeds,
and the juice. Though biting through
the thick hull may not appeal to
everyone, the sweetness inside is worth
the extra trouble.
So what makes these big Southern
grapes so special? Just ask Ed Ables,
father of Taste of the South Editor
Lorna Reeves. He has been around
muscadines all his life and has grown
these wholesome fruits on his property
in Etowah County, Alabama, for years.
Though some more finicky eaters may
discard the thick skin and toss the
seeds, Ed knows that nutrition-wise,
those are the best parts. Muscadine
peels are chock-full of resveratrol,
a plant-produced antioxidant with
health benefits that include lowering
cholesterol and helping ward off coronary heart disease. As for the seeds, Ed
says, “People go to the store and buy
grape-seed extract, but I just crack the
seeds a little with my teeth and extract
my own.” Although the extract may be
a tad bitter, the benefits outweigh that
momentary tang. But rest assured, the
overall taste of a muscadine is sweet,
especially the heavenly juice that lies
just under the skin.
Whether tame from a grower or
wild in the woods, muscadines offer
a mouthful of sweetness to savor.
Close your eyes, take a bite, and revel
in the sugary essence of September in
the South.
Whether tame from a
grower or wild in the woods,
muscadines offer a mouthful
of sweetness to savor.
A Growing
Tradition
Home growers depend on
professionals for healthy
plants and sound advice.
For three generations, Ison’s
Nursery & Vineyards in
Brooks, Georgia, has been
the go-to source for muscadine aficionados. The first
vine was planted in 1934,
long before anyone had
any inkling about the health
benefits associated with the
fruit. The business has grown from a mere 3 acres to 40-plus, offering
more than 200 varieties of fruit, berry, and nut plants—and a wealth of
knowledge to boot.
Second-generation Bill Ison, working with University of Georgia
researcher B.O. Fry, began breeding muscadines in the late 1960s to
improve taste, size, and production. Eager to carry on the legacy, Greg
Ison and sisters Janet, Darlene, and Pam took over the reins when their
dad passed away in 1995. Ison’s now boasts 22 patented varieties of
the sweet Southern grapes, including three named for Bill’s daughters.
Darlene Ison-Evans says it fostered a bit of friendly rivalry among the
sisters. “Pam’s may have a higher yield, but mine is the sweetest!” she
says with a laugh.
Darlene points out that with the downturn in the economy,
business at Ison’s is booming. “In hard times, people get back to the
basics,” she says. “Planting things gives people comfort.”
For more information about Ison’s Nursery & Vineyards, go to
www.isons.com. A catalog of Ison’s offerings is available on the Web
site or by calling 800-733-0324.
www.tasteofthesouthmagazine.com taste of the south 79
As seen in the
August–September 2009 issue
of Taste of the South.
chicken salad with
muscadines
Recipe development by Chantel Lambeth
Yield: approximately 5 cups
Preparation: 20 minutes
1 pound smoked deli chicken
1 cup seeded, chopped
muscadines
1⁄ 2 cup chopped green onion
3⁄ 4 cup mayonnaise
2 teaspoons lite soy sauce
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1⁄ 2 teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
1⁄ 4 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
Lettuce leaves
Garnish: assorted crackers
In the work bowl of a food
processor, pulse chicken until
some chunks remain.
In a large bowl, combine chicken,
muscadines, and green onion.
In a small bowl, combine
mayonnaise, soy sauce, sesame oil,
pepper, and ginger. Add mayonnaise
mixture to chicken, stirring until well
combined.
To serve, place a scoop of chicken
salad on a lettuce leaf. Garnish with
crackers, if desired.
Muscadines are delicious in a variety of salads. Visit
www.tasteofthesouthmagazine.com/webextras for
a recipe for Muscadine Carrot Salad.
muscadine pork
pecan pancakes with
muscadine syrup
Recipe development by Chantel Lambeth
Yield: 12 small pancakes
Preparation: 10 minutes
Cook: 6 minutes per batch
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1⁄ 2 teaspoon salt
3⁄ 4 cup chopped pecans, toasted
1 cup milk
2 large eggs, separated
1⁄ 4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1⁄ 4 cup vegetable oil
Additional butter (optional)
1 recipe Muscadine Syrup (Recipe
follows.)
In a medium bowl, combine flour,
brown sugar, salt, and pecans. Set aside.
80 taste of the south august september 2009
In a separate bowl, combine
milk, egg yolks, and butter. Add milk
mixture to flour mixture, beating at
medium speed with an electric mixer
until smooth. Set aside.
In another bowl and using
clean beaters, beat egg whites
at high speed until soft peaks form.
Gently fold egg whites into flour
mixture until combined.
In a large nonstick skillet,
heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil over
medium heat. Spoon 1⁄ 4 cup batter for
each pancake into skillet. Cook until
lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes per
side. Repeat with remaining oil and
pancake batter.
Serve pancakes warm with additional
butter and warm Muscadine Syrup.
muscadine syrup
Recipe development by Chantel Lambeth
Yield: approximately 2 cups
Preparation: 5 minutes
Cook: 20 minutes
1 quart muscadines, seeded and
puréed
11⁄ 4 cups sugar
1⁄ 4 cup light corn syrup
2 teaspoons lemon juice
In a medium saucepan, bring
muscadine purée, sugar, corn syrup,
and lemon juice to a boil. Reduce heat
and simmer for 20 minutes. Remove
from heat and let cool slightly. Strain
and place in a serving container*.
*Syrup can be stored in an airtight
container in the refrigerator for up to
2 weeks.
Recipe development by Chantel Lambeth
Yield: 4 servings
Preparation: 5 minutes
Cook: approximately 20 minutes
3 tablespoons Cajun seasoning
4 thin pork fillets
2 cups muscadines, peeled, seeded, and
puréed
11⁄ 2 cups chopped onion
1 teaspoon minced garlic
Sprinkle Cajun seasoning over both sides
of pork fillets.
In a large skillet, cook pork over
medium-high heat until browned, 3 to 4
minutes per side. Remove from pan; set
aside.
Add onion and garlic to skillet and cook
until translucent and soft, approximately 5
minutes. Add muscadines and simmer until
slightly thickened, approximately 4 minutes.
Return pork to pan and simmer in
muscadine sauce for 4 to 5 minutes.
To serve, top pork with muscadine sauce.
www.tasteofthesouthmagazine.com taste of the south 81
Did you know?
As seen in the
August–September 2009 issue
of Taste of the South.
muscadine jelly
31⁄ 2 pounds muscadines yield
approximately 5 cups juice.
Recipe development by Lorna Reeves
Yield: approximately 8 (8-ounce) jars
Preparation: 30 minutes
Cook: 45 minutes
5 cups muscadine juice*
1 (1.75-ounce) box powdered
fruit pectin
1⁄ 2 teaspoon butter
7 cups sugar
muscadine tart
Recipe development by Chantel Lambeth
Yield: 1 (10-inch) tart
Preparation: 10 minutes
Bake: 10 minutes
Freeze: 2 hours
Refrigerate: 30 minutes
1 (12-ounce) box vanilla wafers,
finely ground
2 tablespoons unsalted butter,
melted
1 large egg white, lightly beaten
1⁄ 3 cup all-purpose flour
3⁄ 4 cup sugar
1⁄ 8 teaspoon salt
2 cups milk
3 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon orange zest
1⁄ 4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 quart muscadines, thinly sliced
and seeded
1 cup Muscadine Jelly (Recipe
follows.), melted
Preheat oven to 350°.
In a large bowl, combine vanilla
wafer crumbs, butter, and egg white
until mixture is well blended and holds
together. Press into the bottom and up
82 taste of the south august september 2009
the sides of a 10-inch fluted tart pan
with a removable bottom.
Bake until sides of crust begin to
brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.
In a medium nonstick
saucepan, combine flour, sugar,
and salt. Add milk, whisking to
combine. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat
and simmer for 5 minutes, whisking
constantly. Remove from heat and
strain. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk egg
yolks until smooth. Gradually add
warm liquid to egg mixture, whisking
until all is combined. Add orange zest
and vanilla extract, whisking to combine.
Return mixture to saucepan.
Cook over medium heat, whisking
constantly, until thickened,
approximately 3 minutes. Remove
from heat and strain.
Pour custard into prepared tart crust,
cover surface with plastic wrap, and
freeze until firm, at least 2 hours.
Layer muscadine slices on top of
custard. Spread a thin layer of jelly
over muscadine slices.
Refrigerate until jelly is set,
approximately 30 minutes. Remove
tart from pan. Serve cold.
Place 8 (8-ounce) clean canning jars
on a rimmed baking sheet; set aside.
Place 8 clean screw bands within
easy reach of jars; set aside.
Place 8 flat canning lids in a small
saucepan. Pour boiling water over lids.
Set aside.
Prepare a boiling-water canner
according to manufacturer’s instructions.
In a large stockpot, combine
juice, pectin, and butter. Bring to a
full rolling boil over high heat, stirring
constantly with a long-handle spoon.
Add sugar and bring to a full rolling
boil again, stirring constantly.
Boil for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
Remove from heat.
If a lot of foam has formed
on jelly, skim off with a spoon.
Quickly and carefully ladle
hot jelly into prepared jars, leaving a
1⁄ 8 -inch headspace. Wipe jar edges and
threads to remove any jelly residue.
Drain flat lids. Place a lid on each
jar, rubber side down. Apply a screw
band to each jar to secure lid. (Note:
Because jars will be hot, use a towel
to hold onto them while tightening
screw bands.)
Place jars in canner, bring to a boil,
and process for 5 minutes according
to manufacturer’s instructions. Carefully remove jars from canner. Let cool
completely on a towel for 24 hours.
(Note: As jars cool, lids should make a
popping sound as they seal.)
Check seal on jars by pressing on
center of lids. If a lid springs back
when pressed, the jar didn’t seal, and
the jelly should be refrigerated and
consumed within a few weeks.
*To make muscadine juice, place
grapes in a large stockpot and add
just enough water to cover grapes
by half. Using hands or a potato
masher, crush grapes. Bring to a boil
over medium-high heat. Reduce heat
and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring
occasionally. Strain juice through
a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth,
pressing gently. Let stand until dripping
stops. Gently press again. Store juice
in airtight containers in the refrigerator
and use within a few days. If saving
juice for future use, measure desired
amount and store in zip-top plastic
bags in the freezer.
Delicious Variations:
Combine muscadine juice with scuppernong juice to yield 5
cups needed for the jelly recipe. Or, replace the muscadine
juice altogether with 5 cups scuppernong juice.
www.tasteofthesouthmagazine.com taste of the south 83