A handbook to Agra and the Taj, Sikandra, Fatehpur

Transcription

A HANDBOOK TO
AGRA AND THE TAJ
SIKANDRA, FATEHPUR-SIKRI, AND THE
NEIGHBOURHOOD
ija>b
;a
A HANDBOOK
.^-—-^
TO
AGRA AND THE TAJ
SIKANDRA, FATEHPUR-SIKRI
AND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
BY
E.
B.
HAVELL,
A.R.C.A.
GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF ART, CALCUTTA
FELLOW OF THE CALCUTTA UNIVERSITY
PRINCIPAL,
WITH 14 ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPH*'
AND 4 PLANS
LONGMANS, GREEN,
39
AND"^
PATERNOSTER ROW, LONDON
NEW YORK AND BOMBAY
1904
All right* reserved
A3H3
FEB 21
^*?/Ty
OF
10 516
1966
TO*$£^
5 4
"
PREFACE
This
book
little
is
not intended for a history or
who
those
but to assist
archaeological treatise,
or have visited, Agra, to an intelligent under-
visit,
standing of one of the greatest epochs of Indian
In the historical part of
Art.
it,
I
have omitted
unimportant names and dates, and only attempted
to give
such a sketch of the personality of the
greatest of the Great Moguls, and of the times in
which they
them.
India
where
art
the
efforts to
far,
is
monuments they
a living reality, a
spiritual
and
it
It
would be wiser
to understand
I
in
if
in
superiority,
doing
it
we would
;
our
make
but, so
incalculable
first
attempt
it.
Among many works
information,
portion of
with Western ideas
have only succeeded
harm.
of
Empire
We,
possessions.
affectation
improve
behind
left
the only part of the British
still
is
people's
ignorance
necessary for an apprecia-
lived, as is
tion of the wonderful
to
which
I
owe
valuable
should name especially Erskine's
Preface
vi
translation
"
Latif's
"
Memoirs
Muhammad
;
"
Agra, Historical and Descriptive
Edmund
Smith's " Fatehpur-Sikri."
ledgments
Tagore,
Babar's
of
due
are
Mr.
A.
Agra, and to Mr.
My
;
and
"
acknow-
Babu Abanindro Nath
to
Polwhele,
Executive
Engineer,
H. Marshall, Director-General
J.
of the Archaeological Survey of India, for kind
assistance rendered.
to Messrs.
allowing
tion of
In
used
I
am
particularly indebted
Johnston and Hoffman, of Calcutta, for
me
to
make use
photographs
of their valuable collec-
for the illustrations.
quoting from "Bernier's Travels,"
Constable's
Constable
&
Co.'s
translation,
kind
with
permission.
I
have
Messrs.
To
A.
the
Editor of the Nineteenth Century and After I
owe permission to make use of my article on
"The Taj and its Designers," published in that
Review, June,
1903.
Calcutta,
January, 1904.
—
CONTENTS
FACE
Historical Introduction
The Great
Moguls
—
3
—
Babar
Babar's Connection with
Interregnum: Shere Shah
Agra
II. Humayun
III.
Akbar
Akbar's Connection with Agra
IV. Jahangir
Jahangir's Connection with Agra
V. Shah Jahan
The
Monuments of Shah Jahan's Reign at Agra VI. Aurangzib
Agra and the Later Mogul Emperors Agra in the Mutiny.
—
—
I.
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
—
The Fort
40
The Muti Masjid—The Dersane Darwaza —The Diwan-i-im
Jahangir's Cistern — The Tomb of Mr. Colvin — The Inner
Mina Bazar— The Chitore Gates —The Hindu Temple— The
Machhi Bhawan — The Najina Masjid—The Diwan-i-Khas
—Jahangir's Throne—The Baths—The Samman Burj —The
Khas Mahal —The Underground Chambers— The Anguri
Bagh — Shish Mahal — The " Somnath Gates—The Jahangiri
Mahal — The Salimgarh.
"
The Jami Masjid
68
The Taj
The
71
building of the
Taj— The
Intention of the
Taj— Description.
Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb
85
The Chini-ka-Rauza
9I
The Ram Bagh
92
The Zuhara Bagh.
SlKANDRA
96
—The
Tomb
Kanch Mahal
Mariam Zamani's Tomb,
Akbar's
— Suraj-Bhan-ka
Bagh—
—
Contents
viii
PAG*
Other Buildings and Tombs at or near Agra
The Kali Masjid
.
.
102
— Alawal Bilawal—The Hamman—The Roman
Catholic Cemetery.
Fatehpur Sikri
105
The Agra Gate— The Naubat Khana— The Mint—The Daftar
Khana— The Palace— The Kwabgah— The Turkish Sultana's
House Hakim's Baths Pachisi Board The Diwan-i-Khas
—The Ankh-Michauli— The Yogi's Seat—The Hospital—
The Diwan-i-am The Panch Mahal Miriam's Kothi
—
—
—
—
—
— Rajah Birbal's House, or Birbal's
Daughter's House —The Hathi Pol and Adjoining Buildings
— The J ami Masjid, or Cathedral Mosque—The Baland Darwaza— The Stone-Cutters' Mosque —The Houses of Abul
Fazl and
Bharatpur and Other Places in the Vicinity of Agra — Bharatpur
—Govardhan—Muttra—Bindraban.
Jodh
Bai's
Palace
Faizi.
:
Index
i37
1
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
TO FACE PAGE
The Taj Mahal
Frontispiece
I.
A State Document with Shah Jahan's
"Royal Hand and Seal"
»
Plate
.
Plate
.
Shah Jahan, from an Old Indian Minia-
II.
ture
29
III.
The Inner Delhi Gate, or Hathi
Agra Fort
Plate
Pol,
Marble Balcony, overlooking the Inner
Mina Bazar, Agra Fort
Plate
Plate
15
40
IV.
V.
The Samman
Plate VI.
Inner
Burj,
Agra Fort
Courtyard
of
the
52
57
Jahangiri
Mahal, Agra Fort
66
Marble Screen enclosing the Tombs
Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan
74
...
85
Plate VII.
of
Plate VIII.
Plate
IX.
ItmAd-ud-Daulah's Tomb, Agra
Interior of the Upper Pavilion, Itmad-
ud-Daulah's Tomb
Plate X.
87
Marble Sarcophagus on the Upper Story
of Akbar's Tomb, Sikandra
100
x
List of Illustrations
TO FACE PAGE
Interior of the Diwan-i-Khas, Fatehpur
Plate XI.
Sikri
115
Rajah Birbal's
Fatehpur Sikri
Plate XII.
Plate XIII.
Daughter's
House,
122
The Baland Darwaza, Fatehpur
Sikri
129
PLANS
Agra Fort.
Plan of the Palaces
43
Fatehpur Sikri. Plan showing the Position of
the Buildings
Fatehpur
Gates
Fatehpur
Sikri.
107
Plan showing the Walls and
108
Sikri.
Plan of Jodh
Bai's
Palace
...
120
AGRA
;
AGRA
HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION
Agra has two
on the
back
histories
east, or left,
so
as
far
:
one of the ancient city
bank of the river Jumna, going
be lost
to
in
legends
the
of
Krishna and of the heroes of the Mahabharata;
the other of the
in
a.d.
1558,
modern
city,
founded by Akbar
on the right bank of the
among Muhammadans
Akbarabad, which
the romance
of
still
retaining
name
intimately associated
is
the Great Moguls,
and
river,
its
of
with
and known
throughout the world as the city of the Taj.
Of
ancient
Agra
little
now remains
few traces of the foundations.
It
except a
was a
place of
importance under various Hindu dynasties previous
Muhammadan invasions
chequered fortunes down to the
to the
of India, but
its
beginning of the
sixteenth century are the usual tale of siege and
capture
little
by Hindu or Mussulman, and possess
historical interest.
In a.d. 1505 Sultan Sikandar Lodi, the last but
b 2
Agra
4
,
/
one of the Afghan dynasty
and made
it
at Delhi, rebuilt
the seat of government.
burial-place of Akbar,
the
is
named
Agra
Sikandra,
after
him,
and there he built a garden-house which subsequently became the tomb of Mariam Zamani, one
The son
of Akbar's wives.
of Sultan Sikandar,
Ibrahim Lodi, was defeated and
near Delhi,
Panipat,
at
in
1526,
slain
by Babar
and from that
time Agra became one of the principal
cities
of
Mogul Empire which Babar founded.
the
The Great Moguls.— I. Babar.
Though very few memorials
but brilliant reign
this
remarkable man
of Babar's short
exist at Agra, the life
still
is
of
so important a part of
Mogul dynasty that it must not be passed
by the intelligent tourist or student of
Mogul art. It was Babar's sunny disposition,
the
over
and the love of nature characteristic of his
that
brought back into Indian
joyousness which
of Buddhism.
figures
in
it
on
the year
is
mother's,
1494, at
race,
note of
one of the most striking
Eastern history.
his
the
had not known since the days
Babar
He was descended
from Tamerlane, or Timur, on
and,
art
his
father's
from Chinghiz Khan.
side,
In
the age of twelve, he became
king of
kingdom of Central
Farghana, a small
now known
Asia,
however, was
His sovereignty,
Kokand.
as
5
of a very precarious tenure, for he
was surrounded
on
by a horde
sides
all
of
rapacious, intriguing relatives, scrambling for the
of Timur's
fragments
With
empire.
hardly
a
trustworthy ally except a remarkably clever and
courageous
grandmother,
old
struggled
he
on
a
sudden
Samarkand,
won
it.
ancient
In his delightful
wandered from
revelled
in
one of the
paced
palace
the fruit-gardens
the
disappointed in not finding as
enemies,
who
ramparts
palace,
to
of what
finest cities of Asia.
deserted
for
and
memoirs Babar describes
But
and joined
and
was then
in less
Mongol
much booty
a hundred days, most of his shifty
expected,
Timur,
of
capital
how, with boyish glee, he
himself,
made a dash
he
inspiration,
the
for
Then, acting
three years to retain his birthright.
than
troops,
as they
party of his
a
straightway attacked Andijan, the
of Farghana, where Babar had left his
mother and grandmother. Before he could come
to their rescue Andijan had fallen, and at the
same time Samarkand, which he had left, was
capital
occupied by another of his numerous
double misfortune caused
to
leave him, and he
kingdom, except the
still
found
little
more
rivals.
This
of his followers
himself without a
town of Khojend, and
Agra
6
with only two
only time
in
For almost the
hundred men.
his life he gave way utterly to
"I became a prey to
despair.
vexation
;
was reduced
I
melancholy and
to a sore distressed state
and wept much."
Before long, however, Babar, rejoined by his
mother and grandmother, whom the captors of
Andijan had spared, taking advantage of another
turn in the wheel of fortune, recovered his kingdom
of Farghana, but lost the greater part of
through another desertion of his
A
"
Mongol
again
it
rascals."
second time, with only a handful of men, he
surprised
and captured
Samarkand
(a.d.
1500).
In the following year he rashly sallied out against
Shaibani,
to
most
the
was
saries,
defeated,
formidable
and,
after
his
adver-
vainly
trying
of
hold the city against the victors, was forced
to fly
under cover of the
night.
This time he
did not weep, but consoled himself next morning
by riding a headlong race with two of his comReaching a village, where they found
panions.
"nice
sweet
fat
flesh,
melons,
bread of
and
fine
excellent
abundance," Babar declared
he never
enjoyed
flour well
grapes
that
himself so
in
much
baked,
great
in
all
or
his
life
felt
so
keenly the pleasures of peace and plenty.
He now
took
Uratipa, finding
refuge
among
amusement
in
the
hills
observing the
near
life
—
7
of the villagers, and especially in conversing with
mother of the headman, an old lady of a
hundred and eleven, whose descendants, to the
the
number of ninety-six, lived in the country round
about.
One of her relatives had served in the
army with which Timur had invaded India, and
she entertained the future Emperor of Hindustan
by
telling
him stories of
After
several
his ancestor's adventures.
who remained
troopers
raids
fruitless
faithful
himself with his two uncles,
with
few
the
to him, he allied
Mahmud and Ahmad
Khan, in an attack against Tambal, one of the
powerful
nobles
who had
revolted against him
and set up Jahangir, his brother, on the throne
At a critical moment his uncles
left Babar to the mercy of his enemy, and he was
again forced to fly for his life, hotly pursued by
Tambal's horsemen. He was overtaken by two
of Farghana.
of them, who, not daring to pit themselves against
prodigious
Babar's
to
inveigle
him
strength
and courage,
a
Babar
into
trap.
tried
gives
a
moving
Thoroughly exhausted, and seeing no prospect
description of this great crisis in his
of escape, he resigned himself to die
"
I
There was a stream
made my
bowings.
tion,
I
in the
:
garden, and there
ablutions and recited a prayer of
Then surrendering myself
was about
to ask
God
life.
for
to
two
medita-
His compassion,
Agra
8
saw (in my dream)
Khwaja Yakub, the son of Khwaja Yahya, and
grandson of his Eminence the Khwaja 'Obaid-
when
sleep closed
Allah
(a
famous
my
eyes.
of
saint
I
Samarkand),
with
a
numerous escort, mounted on dappled grey horses,
come before me and say, Do not be anxious, the
Khwaja has sent me to tell you that he will support you
and seat you on the throne of sovereignty ; whenever a
difficulty occurs to you, remember to beg his help, and
he will at once respond to your appeal, and victory and
triumph shall straightway lean to your side.' I awoke
with easy heart, at the very moment when Yusuf
*
constable
the
and
his
companions
(Tambal's
were plotting some trick to seize and
throttle me.
Hearing them discussing it, I said
to them, 'All you say is very well, but I shall
be curious to see which of you dares to approach
me.' As I spoke the tramp of a number of horses
soldiers)
the garden wall.
was heard outside
Yusuf the
If we had taken you and
constable exclaimed,
brought you to Tambal, our affairs would have
'
prospered much thereby; as
large troop to seize
you
;
it
is,
he has sent a
and the noise you hear is
At this asser-
the tramp of horses on your track.'
tion
my
"At
face
this
fell,
had not
at
made
breach
a
and
I
knew not what
very moment
first
the
to devise.
horsemen,
who
found the gate of the garden,
in
its
crumbling wall, through
"
9
saw they were Kutluk
Muhammad Barlas and Babai Pargari, two of my
which they entered.
I
most devoted followers, with ten or twenty other
When
persons.
threw
they
they came near
themselves
person
bending the knee at a respectful distance,
my
me with marks
and overwhelmed
feet,
and,
horses,
their
off
my
to
at
fell
of their
affection.
"Amazed
at
had just restored
once,
apparition,
this
me
to
life.
I
who
traitors
I
and
said,
you
in
the
I
Kutluk
Khans
There
sudden
themselves
me
to
my
told
Muhammad
flight
from Akhsi,
moment when
making
were
their
I
the
entry.
saw, in a dream, Khwaja 'Obaid-Allah,
I
said, "
Padishah Babar
Karma n ;
village called
you, for the throne
dream,
.
to
found myself separated
reached Andijan at the very
Khan
at
Who
Then, turning
foot.'
Barlas answered, 'After
this
God
them
them
'Whence come you?
you what was happening?'
zvith
called to
are with him, and bring
bound hand
rescuers,
who
that
Seize Yusuf the constable, and the wretched
'
from
felt
I
.
.
thanks be to
1
is
fly thither
is
his
of
at this instant in
a
and bring him back
right."
Rejoicing at
related it to the big Khan and little
Three days have we been marching, and
I
God
for bringing
about this meeting.'
Babar's " Memoirs," translated by Erskine.
l
Agra
io
After this exciting adventure Babar rejoined
his time-serving uncles, but
was forced
into exile
again in 1503, when, at the battle of Akshi, the
Khans were completely defeated by Shaibani.
Then he resolved to depart out of Farghana and
to give up the attempt to recover his kingdom.
when
Characteristically,
foiled
in
one enterprise
upon another yet more ambitious.
Joined by his two brothers, Jahangir and Nasir,
and by a motley array of various wandering tribes,
he swooped down upon Kabul and captured it.
The description of the new kingdom thus easily
won, which fills many pages of the Memoirs,
he entered
reveals
another
of
side
He
intense love of nature.
Babar's
character
— his
gives minute accounts
of the climate, physical characteristics, the fruits,
flowers, birds, and beasts, as well as of the
human
In the intervals between his battles,
inhabitants.
or between his rollicking drinking parties, which for
some years of
we
orgies,
some
and
often find Babar lost in admiration of
beautiful
planting
Babar's
fruit
degenerated into drunken
his life
first
landscape, or collecting
fruit
care
was
and flower gardens.
to
flowers
Wherever he came,
trees.
dig wells
India
and plant
owes much
to the
Great Moguls' love of horticulture.
When
Babar had
drilled
his
unruly Afghan
subjects into something like order, he made, in
—
11
more unsuccessful attempt to crush
However,
Shaibani.
in 1510, when that doughty
warrior was defeated and slain by Ismail, Shah
one
1506,
of Persia,
Samarkand
fell
once more into Babar's
hands, as a vassal of the Shah.
afterwards he
was driven out
time Babar gave up
the empire
of
his
towards
his face
all
Eight months
again.
From
ancestor Timur, and
India.
that
hopes of re-establishing
turned
In 15 19 he gathered an
army for his first expedition, which was, however,
more of a reconnaissance than a conquest. Four
more attempts he made, until at last, in 1526,
with only 10,000 men, he defeated the hosts of
Ibrahim Lodi, the last of the Afghan kings of
who, with 15,000 of his troops, were left
dead on the field of Panipat.
Thus, after many struggles, Babar became
Delhi,
"master and conqueror of the mighty empire of
Hindustan," but he had to fight two more great
was undisputed
battles
before his sovereignty
one
1527 near Fatehpur Sikri, with the great
in
Sanga of Chitore, and
the Afghans
Bengal. The next year Babar
chief of the Rajputs, Raja
another in
who had
1529 near
settled in
Buxar, with
Agra The nobility
was conspicuous in his death as
it was in his life.
He was devotedly attached to his
eldest son, Humayun, who was seized with malarial
died in his garden palace at
of his character
2
Agra
1
Sam-
fever while staying at his country estate at
Babar had him removed by boat
bhal.
but
physicians declared
his
own
Babar's
hopeless.
during
his
in
life
that
the case
health had suffered
and
India,
he was
When some
agitated by the news.
to Agra,
that in such circumstances
was
much
terribly
one suggested
the Almighty some-
times deigned to accept the thing most valued
by one friend in exchange for the life of another,
Babar exclaimed that of all things his life was
dearest to Humayun, as Humayun's was to him.
He would
own
sacrifice his
life
to save his son.
His courtiers entreated him to give up instead
the great diamond taken at Agra, said to be the
most valuable on earth. Babar declared that no
stone could compare in value with his own life,
and after solemnly walking round Humayun's
couch, as in a religious
devote
sacrifice,
Soon afterwards he
I
it away
himself to prayer.
was heard
to exclaim, "
have borne
it
away!"
he retired to
have borne
I
Humayun began
!
to
re-
cover, and, as he improved, Babar gradually sank.
Commending
friends,
his
son
and imploring
to
the protection
Humayun
forgiving to his brothers, the
first
Moguls" of India passed away.
at
Kabul,
according
in
to
one of
of
his
to be kind
and
of the " Great
He was
buried
his beloved gardens, which,
Tartar custom, he had chosen for
his tomb, in
hood."
13
"the sweetest spot of the neighbour-
1
Babar's connection with Agra.
connection with Agra
Babar's
began
He
diately after the battle of Panipat.
imme-
sent for-
ward Humayun, who occupied the town without
opposition.
The story of the great diamond
referred to above
The Raja
is
here recorded in the Memoirs.
of Gwalior, slain at
Panipat, had
his family
and the heads of his clan
gratitude
to
Humayun, who
at
treated
left
Agra.
In
them mag-
nanimously, and protected them from plunder, they
presented to him a peskesh, or token of homage,
consisting of a quantity of jewels and precious
stones.
Among these was one famous diamond
which had been acquired by Sultan Alaeddin. " It
is
so valuable that a judge of diamonds valued
at
about half the daily expense of the whole world.
It
is
This
about eight mikkals" (or about 280
is
it
carats).
generally supposed to be the celebrated
Koh-i-nur.
Babar determined
to establish the seat of his
government at Agra, but was almost dissuaded
by the desolate appearance of the country. " It
1
For further particulars of Babar's history the reader is referred
Memoirs," or to Stanley Lane-Poole's admirable " Life of
Babar," in the Rulers of India Series" (Macmillan & Co.).
to the "
Agra
14
always appears to me," he says,
" that
one of the
is the want of
had intended, wherever
chief defects of Hindustan
watercourses.
fix
my
I
residence, to
produce an
construct water-wheels, to
regularly planned pleasure ground.
Shortly after coming to Agra
with this object
in
upon a
quite
passed the
I
Jumna
view, and examined the country
fit
spot for a garden.
was so ugly and detestable
river
might
I
stream, and to lay out an
artificial
elegant and
to pitch
artificial
repulsed
and
that
I
The whole
repassed the
disgusted.
In
conse-
quence of the want of beauty and of the disagreeable aspect of the country, I gave up my intention
making a charbagh (garden house); but as no
better situation presented itself near Agra, I was
finally compelled to make the best of this same
of
spot.
...
gardens,
In
every corner
garden
every
in
I
planted
sowed
I
suitable
roses
and
narcissus regularly, and in beds corresponding to
We were
each other.
Hindustan
;
winds, and
one was
the third
means of removing
As
I
all
annoyed by three things
its heat,
its
in
another the strong
dust.
Baths were the
three inconveniences."
have mentioned above, there are very few
vestiges remaining of Babar's city, of his fruit and
flower gardens, palaces, baths, tanks, wells and
watercourses.
The Ram Bagh
the gardens laid
one of
out either by himself or by one
(p.
92)
is
y&pfaî
a>i,^yj
Plate
I.
a statk
i»»imim with shah
HAM'
\\l>
SEAL."
jahan's
"ROYAL
:
;
15
of his nobles, and the Zohra, or Zuhara Bagh, near
it,
contains the remains of a garden-house, which
said to have belonged to
is
one of Babar's daughters.
Opposite to the Taj there are traces of the founda-
Babar planned, and
tions of the city he built.
his
successors completed, the great road leading from
Agra
to
Kabul through Lahore, parts of which
remain.
still
Some
of the old milestones can be
seen on the road to Sikandra.
commencement
of the
"On
of
Thursday, the 4th
directed
is
it
Babar's account
very characteristic
of the
Chikmak Bey, by
latter
a writing
Rebia,
I
under the
royal hand and seal, 1 to measure the distance from
Agra
to
Kabul
;
that at every nine kos he should
raise a minar, or turret, twelve gez in height,
the top of which he
was
on
to construct a pavilion
that every ten kos he should erect
a yam, or
;
post-
house, which they call a dak-choki, for six horses
he should
that
fix
a certain
allowance as a pro-
vision for the post-house keepers, couriers,
grooms, and for feeding the horses
were given
The
that
whenever
;
and
and orders
a post-house for horses
State documents of the Mogul Emperors, "given under the
hand and seal," were sometimes actually impressed by the
royal hand.
Plate I. reproduces part of a letter, addressed by
Shah Jahan to an ancestor of the present Maharajah of Gidhour.
In this letter the Raja Dalan Singh is informed that "the auspicious impress of the royal hand" is sent as a mark of royal
favour, and he is commanded to proceed to Court to participate in
the festivities and to pay homage to the Emperor.
1
royal
6
Agra
1
was
built
near a khalseh, or imperial demesne,
they should be furnished from thence with the
stated allowances; that
if
it
were situated
in
a
ptrgtmna, the nobleman in charge should attend
The same day Chikmak Padshahi
to the supply.
Agra."
left
The
promptness
methods
is
exist
still
administrative
a striking contrast to the circumlo-
of present-day
cution
Babar's
of
remains of
splendid sarais, or
halting-places, built along this
Mogul Emperors
time of Babar
road by different
for their convenience,
down
There
departmentalism.
many
to
from the
One
Aurangzib.
of the
Nurmahal Sarai, near Jalandhar, built
by Jahangir and named after his favourite wife.
Edward Terry, who accompanied Sir Thomas Roe,
James the First's ambassador at Jahangir's Court,
describes " the long walk of four hundred miles,
finest is the
shaded by great trees on both sides," and adds,
"this
is
looked upon by the travellers
who have
found the comfort of that cool shade as one of the
rarest
and most
beneficial
works
in
the whole
world."
II.
Humayun.
Humayun, who succeeded Babar, had many
his
father's
amiable qualities,
genius as a leader of men.
He
but
none of
of
his
utterly failed in the
17
attempt to consolidate the great empire which
Babar had left him, and in 1539, or nine and a half
defeated at
he was completely
Khan
Sur, an Afghan
Kanauj by Shere
nobleman,
who had
years
after
accession,
his
submitted to Babar, but re-
volted against his son.
Humayun found
himself a
fugitive with only a handful of men, and was
eventually driven not only out of Hindustan, but
He
even from the kingdom of Kabul.
under the
he died,
of Shere Shah, ruled at
title
years afterwards.
five
then took
Shere Khan Sur,
refuge with the Shah of Persia.
Agra
until
His son, Salim
Shah, or Sultan Islam, succeeded him, and reigned
between seven and eight years, but on
usual
the
between
quarrels
Humayun, who
generals gave
his
in the
his death
and
relatives
mean time had
got back Kabul with the aid of a Persian army,
the opportunity to recover his position in Hindu-
This occurred
stan.
in 1555,
tunate reign terminated the
fatal fall
from a staircase
Humayun
but he
the
is
first,
who
left
in his
palace at Delhi.
no memorial of himself
that
tomb
at
at
Agra,
remembered for two circumstances
he was the father of the great Akbar,
to be
:
succeeded him
of his
Humayun's unforsame year through a
but
and the second, that the plan
Delhi, built by Akbar, was the model
;
on which the plan of the Taj was based.
8
Agra
1
Interregnum
Shere Shah.
:
Shere Shah was a great builder, and a most
capable ruler.
initiated
many
In his short reign of five years he
of the great administrative reforms
which Akbar afterwards perfected. Fergusson, in
his "History of Indian Architecture," mentions
was
that in his time there
by Shere Shah
built
was
of
in the
a fragment of a palace
Fort at Agra, "which
as exquisite a piece of decorative art as
class in India."
its
any
This palace has since been
destroyed to make room for a barrack, but probably
the
Salimgarh
two-storied
is
known
pavilion
the fragment
The only other building
now remaining in Agra is
mosque of Alawal
the Nai-ki
Mandi
Bilawal, or
quarter (see
Shere Shah's tomb
at
of Shere Shah's
the half-buried
Shah Wilayat,
in
p. 102).
Sasseram,
in
Bihar,
one of the noblest monuments of the Pathan
or the style of the earliest
the
which Fergusson
to
refers.
time
as
Muhammadan
is
style,
architects
in India.
III.
Akbar.
Akbar, "the Great," was born
at
Amarkot, on
the edge of the deserts of Marwar, about three years
after the battle of Kanauj,
was a
fugitive, driven
when
his father
Humayun
from place to place by the
19
adherents of Shere Shah. At this time the treasury
of the
royal house
Humayun
was so reduced
indented on
it
for the
that,
when
customary presents
to his faithful followers, the only thing procurable
was a
single
With
pod of musk.
the cheerfulness
which was the saving grace of Humayun, he broke
up the pod, and distributed it, adding the pious
wish, which seemed like prophetic insight, that his
son's
fame might
fill
the world like the fragrance
Trained
of that perfume.
hard school of
in the
adversity, and inheriting the best qualities of his
Akbar was not long in restoring the
faded fortunes of the Mogul dynasty. Like Babar,
grandfather,
he succeeded to the throne at a very early age, and
found
surrounded by difficulties which
overwhelmed a weaker character.
himself
would have
Humayun
had,
indeed,
way back
fought his
to
Delhi and Agra, but he had by no means settled
numerous disputants
reignty of Hindustan, which Sultan
with
all
had
left in
the
the field
;
and
for
Islam's death
his departure
had been the signal for revolt
in
the sove-
from Kabul
that
quarter.
Akbar, accompanied by Bairam Khan, the ablest
of
Humayun's
generals,
was
received at the same time the
in
Sind when he
news of
his father's
death and of the revolt of the Viceroy at Kabul.
He was
but, like
then
little
more than
thirteen years old,
Babar under similar circumstances, he was
Agra
20
prompt
and
decision
in
in
action.
Adopting
Bairam's advice, which was contrary to that of
his other counsellors, he left
all
Kabul out of account,
and pushed on to Delhi against the forces of Himu,
a
Hindu
who
general, and the
had assumed the
most powerful of
title
his foes,
of Raja Bikramajit, with
Hindu dynasty. On
of Panipat Akbar completely
the hopes of restoring the old
the
plains
historic
defeated
Himu's army,
and
regained
thus
the
empire which his grandfather had won on the same
thirty years before.
This great battle was
most critical point in his career, and though
Akbar had to undertake many other hard campaigns before he was absolute master of the empire,
his position from that time was never seriously
field
the
endangered.
Until his eighteenth year
Akbar remained under
the tutelage of Bairam, an able general, but un-
The high-minded, generous
Akbar revolted against some of his
scrupulous and cruel.
disposition of
guardian's methods, but he recognized that, for
some years
sary for
at least,
him.
In
Bairam's experience was neces1560,
however,
administration entirely into his
in disgust,
own
he took
the
hands. Bairam,
took up arms against his young master,
but was soon defeated and taken prisoner. With his
usual magnanimity,
him
off to
Akbar pardoned him, and sent
Mecca with a munificent present; but
21
the revengeful knife of an Afghan put an end to
the turbulent nobleman's
life
before he could leave
India.
Akbar spent the
rest of his long reign in elabo-
rating the administrative reforms
which have made
him famous as the greatest ruler India has ever
With the aid of
and Muhammadan, he
had.
able ministers, both
Hindu
purified the administration
of justice, keeping the supreme control in his
hands
enjoined
;
matters
tolerance in religious
absolute
abolished
;
own
oppressive
taxes,
and
re-
organized and improved the system of land revenue
introduced by Shere Shah. A minute account of
Akbar's reign, of his policy, habits, and character,
is
by
given
devoted friend and Prime Minister, Abul
his
Fazl.
the " Akbar-nama," the history written
in
No
detail of state affairs
Like
only
the
bigotry
passports
Babar,
he
into
India.
write, he
his
to
and injustice were
favour, while
anathemas to
was fond of
imported many kinds of
for
Ability and integrity
Akbar's personal attention.
were
was too small
horticulture,
him.
and
and flowers
Though he could neither read nor
fruit
trees
had a great library of Hindi,
Persian,
Abul Fazl
every book was read through to him
Arabic, Greek, and other books, and
relates that
from beginning to end.
The most remarkable of all
this
remarkable man's
Agra
22
intellectual
were
activities
about a reconciliation of
his attempts to bring
all
gious elements of his empire.
contemporary historians,
the discordant
reli-
Badayuni, one of his
but, unlike him, a bigoted
Musalman, comments thus on Akbar's religious
views
"
:
From
his earliest childhood to his
hood, and from his
manhood
man-
to old age, his Majesty
has passed through the most various phases, and
through
all
sorts of religious practices and sectarian
and has collected everything which people
beliefs,
can find in books, with a talent of selection peculiar
to
him and a
spirit
of inquiry opposed to every
Thus
(Islamite) principle.
elementary principles traced
his heart, and, as the result
a faith based on
itself
of
which were brought to bear on
grew
some
on the mirror of
all
the influences
his Majesty, there
gradually, as the outline on a stone, the
conviction on his heart that there were sensible
men in all religions, and abstemious thinkers and
men endowed with miraculous powers among all
nations.
where
If
some
true
to be found,
knowledge were thus every-
why
should truth be confined
to one religion, or to a creed like Islam,
which was
comparatively new, and scarcely a thousand years
old
;
why
denies,
and
should one sect assert what another
why
should one claim a preference
without having superiority conferred upon itself?"
Near to his palace at Fatehpur Sikri he built an
23
Ibadat Khana, or Hall of Worship, for the discussion
of
and
philosophy
representatives
received
Muhammadans, Brahmans,
of
religion.
all
There he
religious
sects,
Jains, Buddhists, Parsis,
Jews, and Christians, and listened attentively to
He
arguments.
their
books, and had the
studied
New
deeply
religious
Testament translated into
Persian.
He also invited Jesuit priests from Goa,
and not only allowed them to build a church at
Agra, but even attended a marriage service and
interpreted the
words of the sermon
Badayuni says that
" his
to the bride.
Majesty firmly believed
in
the truth of the Christian religion, and wishing to
spread
the
doctrines
of Jesus,
ordered
Prince
Murad
(his son)
tianity
by way of auspiciousness." The Jesuits,
in making Akbar a con-
to take a
few lessons
in
Chris-
however, did not succeed
vert,
for
when
last settled,
his religious convictions
kind of eclectic pantheism
" Divine
were
at
he proclaimed as the state religion a
Faith," with
called
Din-i-ilahi,
or
himself as the chief inter-
Dispensing with
forms of priesthood,
he simply recognized One God, the Maker of the
preter.
all
Universe, and himself as God's vicegerent on earth.
He
rejected the doctrine of the Resurrection, and
accepted that of the transmigration of souls.
The
were abolished, and others of a
more general character were substituted for them.
Islamite prayers
Agra
24
The ceremonial was
largely
borrowed from the
Hindus.
The
and
" Divine Faith "
its
influence
founder.
It is
had no hold on the people,
ceased
with the death of
its
even said that Akbar, on his death-
bed, acknowledged
the
Muhammadan
orthodox
creed, but the evidence on this point
is
unreliable.
Akbar's religious system had an important political
bearing, for the keynote of his whole policy
the endeavour to unite with a bond of
was
common
interest all the diverse social, religious, and racial
elements of his empire.
He
overlooked nothing
which might further the object he had
in view.
He
chose his ministers and generals indiscriminately
from
all his
subjects, without distinction of race or
He
religion.
allied himself in
marriage with the
Hindu families of Rajputana.
on the judgment seat to dispense
royal
who
chose to appeal to him, and,
He
sat daily
justice to
like the
all
famous
Harun-al-Rashid, he would at times put on disguises and wander unattended
to
among
the people,
keep himself informed of their real condition
and to check the malpractices of his
officials.
Though Akbar unavoidably had bitter enemies
among the more bigoted of his Muhammadan subjects,
his
wise
tolerance of
all
beliefs
and the
generosity of his policy for the most part disarmed
hostility
from
all sides.
Certainly no ruler of India
25
before or since succeeded so far in carrying out
He
his object.
is
still
heroes of Hindustan
in the chase, his
dour of
his
;
song and
Akbar died
1605, in the
mighty deeds
in
war and
wise and witty sayings, the splen-
magnanimity and
his court, his
still live in
one of the great popular
in story.
in the
fifty-first
He was buried
commenced by
at
his justice,
Fort at Agra on October
13,
year of his reign, aged
63.
Sikandra, in the mausoleum
himself,
and finished by
his son
and successor, Jahangir.
Akbar's connection with Agra.
The modern city of Agra, as stated previously,
was founded by Akbar in 1558, opposite to the old
city
Fort,
on the
left
on the
site
bank of the
river.
He
built
the
of an old Pathan castle, and part of
the palace within
it.
Agra was
the seat of govern-
ment during the greater part of his reign. He also
built the great mosque and the magnificent palaces
and public buildings of Fatehpur Sikri, which are
among the most famous of the antiquities of India.
IV. Jahangir.
The
eldest surviving son of Akbar, Prince Salim,
on his accession to the throne
in 1605,
assumed the
Agra
26
title
of Nur-ud-din Jahangir (Light of the Faith,
Conqueror of the World).
He was
passionate, cruel, and a drunkard, but
not without
ability
and force of character.
As
Prince Salim he had instigated the assassination
of the Prime Minister,
hastened his
own
Abul
father's
Fazl,
death
and probably
by
his
violent
There was, however, a reconciliation at
and
the end,
Jahangir endeavoured to atone for his
conduct.
behaviour by lavish expenditure on Akbar's tomb
at Sikandra.
his
to
He
has also
memory
father's
Jahangir's favourite wife
Mahal,
who
for
supreme power
left
many
in
his
pious tributes
autobiography.
was the celebrated Nur
twenty years was
attracted his attention while he
almost
the
Her beauty
in the imperial court.
was
still
Prince
Salim, but Akbar, disapproving of her as a daughterin-law,
lion
in marriage to Sher Afsan, "the
nobleman
a
of Burdwan. After his
gave her
killer,"
accession, having treacherously procured the death
of her husband, Jahangir had
to
Agra and placed under
For many years she repulsed
tures, but
when
at last
Nur Mahal removed
the care Of his mother.
all
Jahangir's over-
she consented to be his queen
she became his most devoted wife. She accompanied
him on
in all
all
his travels,
important
James the
and Jahangir consulted her
affairs of state.
First's
Sir
Thomas Roe,
ambassador, describes Jahangir
at
Agra taking
27
evening drive
his wife for an
in a
bullock cart, "the King himself being her carter."
He
Mahal,
"
"Light
the
of
Light of the World."
name and
new value since
it
She even succeeded
drunken
Jahangir's
Palace,"
The
imperial coinage bore
patroness of the
Samman
bore the
to
name from Nur
to Nur Jahan,
her
an inscription,
her
a
changed
affectionately
"Gold has acquired
name of Nur Jahan."
some extent in controlling
She was a great
habits.
arts,
and
is
it
said
Burj, her apartments in the
that
Agra
Her
the
palace,
charity
was decorated after her own designs.
was boundless she was the especial protectress
;
of orphan girls, and provided marriage portions
for
no
less than 500
Nur Mahal's
from her private purse.
father,
Itmad-ud-daulah, became
Lord High Treasurer, and afterwards Wazir, or
Prime Minister. On his death his daughter built
for
his
him the magnificent tomb
at
Agra known by
name.
During
travellers,
Mogul
Jahangir's
reign
many
Europeans,
adventurers and others, flocked to the
court.
They were allowed
free
access to
the palace, and Jahangir frequently admitted
them
He showed
great
to join in his midnight carouses.
favour to the Jesuit priests, and even allowed two
of his
nephews
religion.
to be instructed
in the Christian
Agra
28
The
by
violent temper of Jahangir
son,
his
was
inherited
Khurram, afterwards
Prince
Shah
Jahan, and the peace of his reign was frequently
disturbed by open rebellion on the part of the
In 1623
Prince.
Shah Jahan actually sacked Agra,
and his soldiers committed
fearful atrocities
on the
He failed, however, to capture the
which contained the imperial treasury, and
inhabitants.
fort,
remembering
Jahangir, no doubt
his
own
father's
leniency towards himself, forgave his unruly son.
Jahangir died in 1627, and was buried at Shahdara, near Lahore, in a magnificent
by Nur Mahal.
and, though she
part
in
state
She herself
lived
till
retired
1648,
after
affairs
tomb prepared
his
Lahore,
to
ceased to take any
death.
She was
buried by her husband's side at Shahdara.
Jahangir's connection with Agra.
Jahangir for a great part of his reign held his
court at Lahore, or at Kabul.
his reign
ments of
tomb
tomb
Agra
at
Sikandra
(p.
85),
at,
(p.
already
or near,
97),
though
it
is
and Itmad-ud-daulah's
mentioned.
Part
of
the
Mahal (p. 63), is named
most probable that it was
Palace, the Jahangiri
after him,
The chief monuAgra are Akbar's
really built in Akbar's reign.
.
Plate II.— shah jahan, prom an old Indian miniature.
29
There are a few minor buildings of Jahangir's
Khan
Motamid Khan
time in Agra, such as the baths of Ali Verdi
in Chipitollah Street, the
in the
the
mosque
of
Kashmiri Bazar, and the tower known after
name
Khan, the chief eunuch of
of Boland
These are of purely archaeo-
Jahangir's palace.
logical interest.
V. Shah Jahan.
Shah Jahan, on
his father's death,
though only
fourth in right of succession to the throne, speedily
disposed of his brothers by means very
adopted
throned
in
at
Oriental
Agra
commonly
was en-
royal families, and
in 1648.
Immediately afterwards
he wreaked his vengeance on the Portuguese,
had taken part against him
who
in his rebellion against
Jahangir,
by destroying
The next
year, while on an expedition to suppress
their settlement at Hughli.
disorder in the Deccan, he lost his favourite wife,
Mumtaz Mahal,
the lady of the Taj.
For a long
time the Emperor abandoned himself entirely to
grief,
and he remained
faithful to
her
memory
until
his death.
The actual building of the Taj commenced in
From this date until 1658, when Aurangzib
1632.
usurped the throne, was the most magnificent
period of the Mogul dynasty. The whole empire
;
Agra
3°
enjoyed comparative peace and prosperity.
Jahan'sjust and
and
father's
towards
liberal
government continued
grandfather's
Hindus,
the
Shah
policy
and
his
of
his
tolerance
administration,
though conducted with great pomp and splendour,
did not press hardly
of the
greatest
besides
the
upon the people.
epochs of Indian
Taj
Mahal,
the
It
was one
architecture
buildings
erected
during these years include four of the masterpieces
of the
Mogul period— the Jami
Mosque, of Delhi; the
Masjid, or Cathedral
Muti Masjid,
or
Pearl
Mosque, of Agra; part of the Agra Palace, and the
great palace at Delhi, of which only a small portion
now
exists.
It is
said that as
Shah Jahan advanced towards
more and more to a
old age he abandoned himself
life
of pleasure and self-indulgence, but his last years
were darkened by the same kind of family intrigues
through which he himself had gained the throne.
In 1657 the serious illness of the Emperor brought
His eldest son by
these intrigues to a head.
Mumtaz Mahal, called Dara Shikoh, a gracious and
generous Prince, but headstrong and intolerant of
advice,
was appointed Regent.
intelligence, his
On
receiving this
younger brothers, Shuja, Viceroy
of Bengal, and Murad, Viceroy of Gujerat, declared
their
independence,
and
marched
upon
Agra.
Aurangzib, the third son, a religious bigot, but the
:
ablest and
join
most
31
virile of the brothers,
them, and being placed
in
hastened to
chief
command,
army close to Agra and completely
Three days afterwards he entered
Shah Jahan sent his chamberlain to
attacked Dara's
defeated him.
the city.
order him to leave the city at once and return to
his post
the Deccan, but
in
to believe that his father
Aurangzib, affecting
was dead, disregarded the
He
succeeded by bribes and promises in
bringing over some of the principal nobles to his
order.
and being well informed by Rushanara, his
younger sister, who was his equal in cunning and
artifice, of all that went on in the palace, he baffled
Shah Jahan's attempts to lay hands on him. At
side,
last,
under
pretence
of
arranging
an
amicable
meeting with his son Mahmud, Aurangzib beguiled
Shah Jahan into withdrawing his troops from the
Fort.
Mahmud
immediately forced
with a picked body of
of the Emperor.
no attempt
at a
The
men and
his
way
in
seized the person
plan succeeded so well that
rescue was made.
The French traveller Tavernier, who has left a
complete record of the time, writes of this event
" It is
most surprising that not one of the servants
King offered to assist him; that all
of the grand
his subjects
abandoned him, and that they turned
their eyes to the rising sun, recognizing
king
but Aurangzib.
no one as
Shah Jahan, though
still
Agra
32
living,
passed from their memories.
there were any
who
felt
If,
perchance,
touched by his misfortunes,
made them basely
abandon a king who had governed them like a
fear
made them
silent,
and
and with a mildness which is not common
For although he was severe
with sovereigns.
enough to the nobles when they failed to perform
father,
their duties, he arranged all things for the comfort
of the people, by
who gave no
whom
signs of
it
he was
much
beloved, but
at this crisis."
Shah Jahan remained confined in a set of apartments of the Agra Palace for seven years. He
died in 1666, and was buried by the side of Mumtaz
Mahal in the Taj. His captivity was shared by his
who
favourite daughter, Jahanara,
since the death
of her mother had ruled the imperial household
and taken a prominent part
in state affairs.
She
had actively supported the cause of Dara, and thus
incurred the resentment of Aurangzib.
father's death she retired to Delhi,
there until 168 1.
grass,
is in
Her simple
filial
her
and she lived
grave, covered with
a quiet corner of the courtyard of Niza-
mudin's tomb, near Delhi, where the
her
On
piety adds to the poetic
surroundings.*
memory
charm of
all
of
the
The Monuments
of
The Taj Mahal
33
Shah Jahan's Reign
(p.
72)
;
at Agra.
the Jami Masjid
(p.
69)
;
and the following buildings in the Fort The Muti
Masjid (p. 43) the Diwan-i-am (p. 46) the Diwan:
;
;
Khas Mahal
i-khas (p. 55); the
VI.
Agra
is
(p. 59).
Aurangzib.
only concerned with the
years of Aurangzib's reign,
for,
seven
first
the death
after
Shah Jahan, the court was removed to Delhi,
and Agra was left with only a provincial governor
The unhappy
to maintain its former magnificence.
Dara, after his defeat by Aurangzib, made fruitless attempts to retrieve his fortunes, but was
of
at
last
betrayed into the hands of his brother,
who immediately
lost
no time
in
put him to death.
Aurangzib
disposing of his other two brothers,
and thus placed his succession
to the throne
beyond
dispute.
The Princess Rushanara, as
treachery, was raised to the
enjoyed
by her
physician Bernier,
sister
who
the
Mogul court
left
many minute and
times.
Here
is
in the
a reward for her
position
Jahanara.
formerly
The French
resided twelve years
at
time of Aurangzib, has
graphic
records
a picture of Rushanara
of
the
when she
D
—
Agra
34
accompanied Aurangzib on the march from Delhi to
Kashmir
:
" Stretch imagination to its
you can conceive no
utmost
and
limits,
more grand and
exhibition
imposing than when Rauchenara-Begum, mounted
on a stupendous Pegu
a
mikdember,
by
followed
or
mikdembers nearly
and
filled
eunuchs,
each
with
Close
hold.
a
surrounding
servants,
six
and
gold
resplendent
as
as
to
Princess
are
adorned
wand
her
Tartars
and
house-
the
finely
chief
mounted,
of office in his hand;
elephant
and
a
troop
Kachmerys,
is
with
her own,
her
attached
the
in
azure,
elephants
other
ladies
to
richly
with
with
blazing
five
elephant and seated
of
and
female
fantastically
and riding handsome pad-horses. Besides
these attendants are several eunuchs on horseback,
accompanied by a multitude of pagys, or lackeys,
on foot, with large canes, who advance a great
way before the Princess, both to the right and
purpose of clearing the road and
left, for the
attired
driving before them every intruder.
Rauchenara-Begum's
behind
principal lady of the court,
in
much
lady
is
the
retinue
Immediately
appears
a
mounted and attended
same manner as the
Princess.
This
followed by a third, she by a fourth, and
so on, until fifteen or sixteen females of quality
pass with a grandeur of appearance, equipage, and
retinue
less proportionate to their rank,
more or
There
pay, and office.
something very impres-
is
march of these
their solemn and, as
of state and royalty in the
sive
more elephants;
were, measured steps,
sixty or
it
35
and the
mikdembers,
;
splendour of the
in the
brilliant
followers in attendance
this display of
in
and,
and
if I
innumerable
had not regarded
magnificence with a sort of philo-
sophical indifference,
I
should have been apt to
be carried away by such flights of imagination
as inspire
represent
most of the Indian poets when they
elephants as conveying so many
the
goddesses concealed from the vulgar gaze."
x
Dramatic justice overtook the scheming Princess
at
In
last.
1664 Aurangzib
and, while he
him
lieving
dangerously
fell
ill,
was unconscious, Rushanara, be-
to
be dying, abstracted the
signet
ring from his finger and issued letters, as under
the
royal
seal,
to
Governors, setting
Emperor's eldest
the
aside
son
various
the
Viceroys
succession
and
of the
by a Rajput Princess
in
by a Muhammadan sultana. She hoped by this means to keep
the supreme power in her own hands during the
long minority of the new Emperor. Aurangzib
unexpectedly recovered, and became suspicious
The host of enemies
of his dangerous sister.
favour of another son, a boy of
1
Bernier's " Travels "
six,
—Constable's translation.
Agra
36
she had created at court were not slow in taking
advantage of the situation, and Rushanara soon
afterwards disappeared
— removed,
said,
by
hand, and
in
it
is
poison.
Aurangzib
strict justice
ruled
with
a
firm
according to the law of Islam, but
though a man
of great intellectual
powers, of
marvellous energy and indomitable courage, he
was wanting
in imagination,
sympathy, and fore-
sight, the highest qualities of a really great ruler.
He
checked the dissolute conduct of the nobles,
and
set an
example of industry and devotion to
duty
;
him
to distrust
but his narrow, bigoted disposition inclined
even his
own
ministers, so that,
was badly served
whose hands the administra-
unlike his three predecessors, he
by the lieutenants
tion
of
the
in
provinces rested.
He surrounded
himself with religious bigots of the Sunni sect
of
Muhammadans, who aided him
cution of the Hindus.
in bitter perse-
Hardly anything of artistic
was created under his
or architectural interest
Most of the great artists who attended
Shah Jahan's court were dismissed as unorthodox
I or heretics, and many noble monuments were
mutilated by the Emperor's fanatical followers
on the ground that they contravened the precept
of the Koran which forbids the representation of
patronage.
animate nature
in art.
He
died
in
1707,
37
years of age.
eighty-nine
The Mogul empire, surrounded by hordes
enemies
his bigotry
was already
his death he
and intolerance had created,
tottering to its
the British raj
was
of the
and the star of
Seventeen years before
rising.
had granted
fall,
to
Job Charnock a piece
of land at Sutanati, the site of the future capital of
our Indian empire.
Agra and the Later Mogul Emperors
Agra played
a very small part in the history
of the weak-minded and dissolute successors of
Aurangzib.
to
1719,
Firokhshiyar,
resided
who
occasionally
reigned from 17 13
After
there.
his
death disputes between various claimants to the
throne
led
to
Agra
being
Fort
besieged
and
captured by Husein Ali Khan, a partisan of one
of them,
who
looted
the
treasury
of
all
the
valuables deposited there during three centuries.
"There were the
effects
of
and Mumtaz Mahal, amounting
to various reports, to
Nur Jahan Begum
in value,
according
two or three crores of rupees.
There was in particular the sheet of pearls which
Shah Jahan had caused to be made for the tomb
of
of
Mumtaz Mahal,
rupees,
anniversary
of the value of several lakhs
which was
spread over it on the
and on Friday nights.
There was
'
Agra
38
Nur Jahan and her cushion
the ewer of
of
woven
gold and rich pearls, with a border of valuable
garnets and emeralds."
(Elliott.)
Shah of Persia, sacked Delhi,
Shah Jahan's famous peacock throne,
and laid Agra also under contribution.
The
Mahrattas next appeared on the scene. In 1764
the Jats of Bharatpur, under Suraj Mai, captured
In 1739 Nadir,
carried off
Agra, looted the Taj, and played havoc with the
palaces in the Fort.
They were joined by Walter
Reinhardt, an adventurer, half
French and half
German, who sold his services for any work of
had only recently assisted in the
murder of the British Resident and other Europeans
He afterwards entered the Mogul
at Patna.
infamy, and
and was rewarded by a grant of a tract
of country near Meerut, which remained in the
service,
possession of his family until recent times.
died at
Agra
in 1778,
and was buried
He
in the Catholic
cemetery.
For the next thirty-nine years Agra was occupied by Mahrattas and by Mogul imperialists in
turn.
John Hessing, a Dutch officer in the employ
was Governor of Agra in 1794,
The next year it was
and died there in 1802.
captured by the British under General, afterwards
of the Mahrattas,
Lord, Lake,
history
was
and
from that time
uneventful.
until
1857
its
Agra
Agra
in the
39
Mutiny.
did not take any prominent part in the
events of the Mutiny.
burnt the public
Europeans
;
A mob
offices,
but
the
and
rioters
plundered the
killed a
left
city,
number of
soon
to
join
comrades at Delhi.
There was a small
engagement outside the city. The British troops
and the whole of the European population were
afterwards shut up in the Fort until the capture
their
The Lieutenant-Governor, Mr. John
Colvin, died there, and was buried in front
of Delhi.
Russell
of the Diwan-i-am.
THE FORT
The
present Fort
1566,
on the
Salim
site
was commenced by Akbar
in
of an older one constructed by
Shah Sur, the son of Shere Shah.
Its
vast walls (seventy feet in height, and a mile and
a half in circuit),
its
turrets,
and noble gateways
present from the outside a most imposing appear-
most
exquisite of mosques, the Muti Masjid, and the
palaces of Akbar and Shah Jahan. The principal
It
contains
north
entrance
ance.
or
within
is
the
its
walls
Delhi
that
Gate,
nearly
the railway station and the Jami
Formerly there was a walled enclosure
front of this gate, called the Tripulia, or Three
opposite to
Masjid.
in
was used as a market. This was
away by the military authorities in 1875.
Gates, which
cleared
Crossing the drawbridge over the moat which sur-
rounds the Fort, the visitor passes the outer gate,
and by a paved incline reaches the Hathi
Elephant Gate (Plate
III.),
Pol, or
so called from the two
stone elephants, with riders, which formerly stood
outside the gate, on the highest of the platforms
The Fort
on either side of
The
it.
41
statues and elephants
There
are four hollow places in each platform, where
1
the legs of the elephants were morticed into it.
were thrown down
1
These elephant
archaeologists.
by order of Aurangzib.
statues
Bernier,
in
have
his
been
description
vexed
a
point
with
of Delhi, refers
to
two great elephants of stone, with their riders, outside of the Fort
Gates. The riders, he says, were portraits of the famous Rajput
chiefs Jaymal and Patta, slain by Akbar at the siege of Chitore.
" Their enemies, in admiration of the devotion of the two heroes,
put up these statues to their memory." Now, Bernier does not say
that the statues were put up by Akbar, but General Cunningham,
inferring that Bernier meant this, propounded a theory that they
were originally in front of the Agra Fort, which Akbar built, and
removed to Delhi by Shah Jahan, when he built his new palace
there.
Keene, who discusses the question at length in his
"
Handbook
to Delhi," accepts this suggestion.
Neither of these
seem to have been aware of the existence of the marks
of the feet on the platform in front of the Agra Hathi Pol.
I
have compared the measurements of these marks with the dimensions of the elephant which still exists at Delhi, and find that
they do not correspond in any way. The Delhi elephant is a
much larger animal, and would not fit into the platform at the
Agra gate. General Cunningham's theory, therefore, falls to the
authorities
It is just possible that the Delhi elephants were intended
be copies of those placed by Akbar at Agra. Shah Jahan is
not likely to have intentionally perpetuated the memory of the
Rajput chiefs, but popular tradition or imagination may have
fastened the story told by Bernier on to the Delhi statues. Elephants
were so commonly placed in front of Indian palaces and fortresses
that, except for this story, there would be no need to suppose any
connection between those at Agra and those at Delhi.
Purchas, quoting William Finch who visited Agra in Jahangiris
time, describes the elephants at the Hathi Pol, but gives a different
" Beyond these two gates you pass a second
origin to the statues.
gate, over which are two Rajaws in stone.
It is said that they
were two brother Rajputs, tutors to a prince, their nephew, whom
the King demanded of them. They refused, and were committed
ground.
to
;
Handbook
42
The
gate
style;
is
Agra and the Taj
to
a fine example
of the early
contains the Naubat khana, or music
where the royal kettledrums announced
it
gallery,
the Emperor's arrival or departure, and
functions.
1
It
was
also
all
state
a guard-house, and
pro-
bably the quarters of a high military
it
"
is
Mogul
certainly not,
Darshan
scribed
the
as
Darwaza,"
or
"
officer,
guides have
Gate
of
but
it,
the
Sights,"
de-
by William Finch, where the Emperor
Jahangir showed himself at sunrise to his nobles
and to the multitude assembled
in the plain
below.
The Darshan Darwaza was undoubtedly near
old disused water-gate, which was joined to
the
the
royal apartments of the palace by a private passage,
and answers
to
Finch's description of "leading
into a fair court extending along the river."
The
a considerable distance from
Elephant Gate
is at
the palace, and
was never connected with
it,
except
by the public road.
It is worth while to climb the top of the gate
by the staircase on the right, inside the Fort.
There is a fine view of the Fort, and beyond the
walls the ever-beautiful white
appear
in
the distance.
domes of the Taj
The Itmad-ud-daulah
is
but drew on the officers, slew twelve, and at last, by multitudes
oppressing, were themselves slain, and here have elephants of
stone and themselves figured." The expression " over " (the gate)
has the meaning of "high up," and not, as Keene supposes, its
more modern sense of "on the top of."
V
°W
The Muti Masjid
on the
visible
left.
Towards the town you look
down into the quadrangle
The pavilions on the summit
towers flanking the
43
of
Jami Masjid.
the
of the great octagonal
gate are finely carved, and
bear traces of painting and
enamelled tilework.
Descending the staircase to the
floors beneath,
one
can wander through the curious small chambers and
look out from the balconies on the front of the gate.
The Muti
The road
Masjid.
to the left after passing the Elephant
Gate leads up to the entrance of the Muti Masjid,
1
or " Pearl
I
Mosque," placed on the highest point
of the Fort enclosure. 1
known
You
pass on the
a'
left
Dansa Jat's house, said to
have been occupied by the Rajahs of Bharatpur
building
when
the Jats held the Fort.
it
The
beauty,
the
pression
of an
characterize the
purity,
and
is
unaffected
exalted religious
interior.
It
is
The
old
Mogul road
very plain
is
hardly prepared
the
rare
to
is
find
Gate
understand that this road
be restored shortly by the Archaeological Department.
I
an
produced
led directly from the Elephant
the entrance of the Diwan-i-am.
ex-
which
feeling
Indian building in which the effect
1
made
into officers' quarters.
entrance to the Muti Masjid
and unpretending, so that one
for
has been
It
by modern additions which have con-
hideous
verted
as
to
will
Handbook
44
with
hardly
any
to
Agra and the Taj
ornament,
but
by the
solely
perfection of proportions, beauty of material, and
harmony
in front of the
ways,
The
of constructive design.
mosque, with
its
courtyard,
arcades and gate-
mosque
rhythm
a noble setting to the Pearl, as the
is
There is a subtle
in the placing of the three domes over the seven
arches of the mosque, which saves the whole
design from monotony, while the marvellous grace
of the contours, which is so characteristic of the
finest of Shah Jahan's buildings, makes each dome
grow up from the roof like a flower-bud on the
is
appropriately called.
point of unfolding.
The octagonal
pavilions at the
four corners of the mosque, and the dainty
little
kiosques placed as decoration over the arches and
gateways of the courtyard, echo the
harmonies of the larger constructive details, and
over the
give completeness to the composition.
The
to the
mosque owes
interior of the
same
greatness of style
the proportions.
The
its
dignity
and perfection of
three aisles are formed by
With
massive piers of single blocks of marble.
all
its
simplicity, there
in the placing of the
is
consummate
ornament and
art
both
in the beautiful
springing of the arches from the supporting piers.
The
fine
On
workmanship
is
either side of the
chamber
for
the
ladies
worthy of the
art.
mosque there
of the
is
a small
zanana, with
a
The Dersane Darwaza
window
with a carved marble
filled
on to the
grille
looking
They could thus attend to the
mosque without being seen. The
interior.
services of the
staircases
45
on the right and
left
of the courtyard
give private access to the apartments of the palace.
The Persian
inscription inlaid in black marble
under the wide, projecting cornice of the mosque
is a poetic tribute to the beauty of the building
and a panegyric of
that
it
was
built
its
founder.
From
by Shah Jahan,
it
it
we
learn
took seven
years to build, and cost three lakhs of rupees.
The dimensions
of
the
courtyard, given
by
Fergusson, are 154 feet by 158 feet; and of the
Mosque:
length, 159 feet; depth, 56 feet, internally-
The Dersane Darwaza.
Nearly opposite to the Muti Masjid, you pass
on the
left
an inclined passage which leads to an
old gateway, a part of Akbar's buildings.
little
remains
connected
gir,
it
of
the
original
with the palace
but there cannot
buildings
in the
Very
which
time of Jahan-
be much doubt that this
was the locality described by William Finch as
the " Dersane Darwaza, leading into a fair court,
extending
along
the
river,
in
looks forth every morning at
which the
sun-rising,
King
which
he salutes, and then his nobles resort to their
;
Handbook
46
to
Right under the place where
Tesillcim (obeisance).
he looks out,
nobles
below
is
stand,
a kind of scaffold, whereon his
but
the Addis with
the court.
in
Agra and the Taj
others await
Here also every noone he
looketh forth to behold Tamdshdh, or fighting of
Elephants, Lyons, Buffles, killing of Deare with
Leopards, which
is
a custom on every day of the
weeke, Sunday excepted, on which
but Tuesday, on the contrary,
is
is
no fighting
a day of blood,
both of fighting beasts, and justiced men, the King
judging and seeing executions."
The Diwan-i-am.
The road now turns towards the right, through
the Mina Bazar, the old market-place, where merchants displayed jewellery, brocades, and similar
stuffs
for the
court.
A
nobles
and others
gateway leads
attending
the
into the great courtyard
of the Diwan-i-am, or Hall of Public Audience,
which, with
its
surrounding arcades, was for a
long time
used as an armoury for the
garrison.
The
hall itself
was restored
British
in 1876
by
Lieutenant-Governor of
North- West Provinces. The courtyard has
Sir John Strachey, then
the
recently been put back, as far as possible, into
original
condition by Lord Curzon's orders.
further great improvement has been
made by
its
A
the
The Diwan-i-am
47
removal of the hideous modern additions which
entirely concealed
The present
all
the arcades.
hall,
which
an open pavilion
is
triple row of colonnades, was commenced by Shah Jahan, but, if we may believe
tradition, was not completed until the 27th year of
the reign of Aurangzib. The arcades surrounding
formed by a
the quadrangle are probably of Akbar's time.
The
interior dimensions of the hall are 192 feet
by 64
It is
feet.
over with a
constructed of red sandstone, plastered
white polished stucco, which served
fine
both as a protection to the stone and as a ground
for coloured decoration
work was
This plaster-
carried to the perfection of a fine
by the old Mogul
it
and gilding.
art
builders, but the restoration of
was very indifferently carried out.
The throne of the Emperor was in an alcove
in 1876
inlaid
marble
at the
back of the
hall,
with the royal apartments behind.
daily to
give audience to
his
ambassadors, and to administer
of
and connected
Here he
to
court,
justice.
sat
receive
At the
foot
a square slab of marble, about 3
feet in height, on which, it is said, his ministers
of the alcove
is
stood to receive petitions to the Emperor, and to
convey
left
his
commands
thereon.
On
the right and
of the throne are chambers with perforated
marble windows,
through
which
the
the zanana could view the proceedings.
ladies
of
Bernier's
—
Handbook
48
lively description,
to
;;
Agra and the Taj
though
it
properly belongs to
the Diwan-i-am at Delhi, will enable us to picture
the scene in the days of the Great
"
Mogul
:
The monarch every day, about noon, sits upon
some of his sons at his right and
his throne, with
left,
flap
while eunuchs standing about the royal person
away
the
flies
with peacocks'
tails,
agitate
the air with large fans, or wait with undivided
attention and profound humility to perform the
different services
under the throne
allotted to
is
Immediately
each.
an enclosure, surrounded by
which are assembled the whole body
silver rails, in
of omrahs (nobles), the Rajas, and the ambassadors,
hands crossed.
downwards and their
At a greater distance from the
throne are the
mansebdhars, or inferior omrahs,
all
standing, their eyes bent
also standing in the
same posture of profound
The remainder
reverence.
and, indeed,
persons of
all
because
is
it
of the spacious room,
the whole courtyard,
it
is
filled
in this extensive hall that the
gives audience indiscriminately to
hence
is
with
ranks, high and low, rich and poor
called
Am
all
King
his subjects
Khas, or audience chamber
of high and low.
"
During the hour and a
that this
half,
ceremony continues, a
or two hours,
certain
number
of the royal horses pass before the throne, that
the King
may
see whether they are well used and
The Dlwan-1-am
in a
49
The elephants come
proper condition.
next,
having been well washed and
their filthy hides
painted black as ink, with two large red streaks
from
the top
of
head down to the trunk,
the
The elephants
where they meet.
with embroidered cloth
;
are
covered
a couple of silver-white
cow-tails from Great Tibet, of large value,
from
their
ears
like
hang
Two
immense whiskers.
small elephants, superbly caparisoned, walk close
to these colossal creatures, like slaves appointed
As if proud of his gorgeous
and of the magnificence which surrounds him,
to their service.
attire
every elephant moves with a solemn and dignified
when
step, and,
who
is
in front of the throne, the driver,
seated on his shoulder, pricks him with a
pointed iron, animates and speaks to him, until
the animal bends one knee,
his trunk
on high,
and roars aloud, which the people consider as the
elephants'
mode
lifts
of performing the taslim, or usual
reverence.
"Other animals are next introduced
—
tame antepurpose of fighting with each
other; nilgaux, or grey oxen, that appear to me
lopes, kept for the
to be a species of elk
with
buffaloes,
them
to
rhinoceroses
prodigious
;
horns
large Bengale
which
enable
contend against lions and tigers
leopards,
antelopes
;
or
;
panthers,
some
employed
in
;
tame
hunting
of the fine sporting dogs from
E
Handbook
5°
to
Agra and the Taj
Usbec, of every kind, and each dog with a small
red covering
lastly,
;
every species of the birds
of prey used in field sports for catching partridges,
cranes,
hares,
and even,
is
it
said,
for hunting
antelopes, on which they pounce with violence,
beating their heads and blinding them with their
wings and claws."
After this parade, the more serious business of
The Emperor reviewed
his cavalry with peculiar attention, for he was
personally acquainted with every trooper. Then
was attended
to.
the petitions held
up
the day
all
in the
assembled crowd
were read and disposed of before the audience
closed.
On
pillars
other
or
festivals
of the
special
occasions
were hung with
hall
cades, and flowered
satin
gold
the
bro-
canopies fastened with
were raised over the whole
apartment. The floor was covered entirely with
A gorgeous
the most magnificent silk carpets.
tent, larger than the hall, to which it was fastened,
and supported by poles overlaid with silver, was
pitched outside. Every compartment of the arcades
round the courtyard was decorated by one of
red
silken
cords
the great nobles, at his
own
expense, with gold
brocades and costly carpets, each one vying with
the other to attract the attention of the Emperor,
to
whom, on such
occasions, an offering of gold
The Inner Mina Bazar
more or
or jewels,
pay and rank of the
less valuable according to the
—
a great stone cistern, cut out of a single
is
with
block,
must be presented.
Just in front of the Diwan-
giver,
Jahangir's Cistern.
i-am
51
steps
and
inside
known
out,
There
Jahangir's Hanz, a bowl or bath-tub.
long Persian inscription round the outer rim
now
only part
made
decipherable
for Jahangir
nearly
feet in
5
the top.
Its
in
shows
1019 a.h.
(a.d.
that
161
it
as
is
;
a
the
was
It is
i).
height and 8 feet in diameter at
original place
is
said to have been
one of the courts of the Jahangiri Mahal.
The Tomb of Mr. Colvin.— Close by
Hauz is the grave of Mr. John Russell
Jahangiri's
Colvin, the
Lieutenant-Governor of the North-West Provinces,
who
died
in
Fort
the
during
the disturbances
of 1857.
The Inner Mina Bazar.
Before entering the private apartments of the
palace,
which are
we may
at
the back of the Diwan-i-am,
pass through the gateway on the
left
of
was
where merchants sold jewellery,
the courtyard, and enter a smaller one, which
the private bazar
silks,
and
zanana,
costly brocades to the ladies of
who were
seated
in
the
the marble balcony
Handbook
52
which overlooks
it
to
Agra and the Taj
A
(Plate IV.).
narrow
staircase
gave access to the balcony from the courtyard.
We may
well believe that a considerable part
was spent in this quarter of the
palace.
Sometimes the Great Mogul and his court
would amuse themselves by holding a mock fair,
of the ladies' time
which
in
the
the
of
prettiest
wives
nobles'
and daughters would act as traders, and the
Emperors and the Begums would bargain with
them in the most approved bazar fashion. The
Emperor would
haggle
value
the
for
of
an
anna, and the ladies would feign indignation, scold
Majesty roundly, and
his
tell
could suit himself better.
if
possible,
cheaply
;
a
still
him
to
go where he
"The Begums
betray,
greater anxiety to be served
high words are heard on every side, and
the loud and scurrilous quarrels of the
and
sellers
create a complete farce.
at last the bargains are struck, the
But,
buyers
when
Begums, as well
as the Emperor, pay liberally for their purchases,
and
often, as
if
by
accident, let slip out of their
hands a few gold instead of silver roupies, as a
compliment to the
daughter.
Thus
fair
merchant and her pretty
the scene ends with merry jests
and good humour."
(Bernier.)
The Chitore Gates. — The
this
courtyard, on the
gates, the
left,
trophies which
further corner of
leads to the Chitore
Akbar placed there
as
M act hi
The
Bhawan
53
a memorial of his capture of that great Rajput
stronghold
its
gallant
a desperate resistance by
in 1657, after
defenders.
They form
the principal
entrance to the Machhi Bhawan, the great court-
yard behind the Diwan-i-am, but
are
generally
kept closed.
—
The
Hindu Temple.
Beyond the Chitore
gates you enter into another quadrangle surrounded by arcades, which recalls a different
chapter in the chequered history of the palace.
Here
is
a
Bharatpur
Hindu temple,
Rajahs,
who
built
by one of the
sacked Agra about the
middle of the 18th century, and occupied
for
it
ten years.
The Machhi Bhawan.
Returning
now
to
ascend by one of the
Diwan-i-am,
the
small
staircases
we
can
to
the
throne-room, and enter the upper arcades which
surround the Machhi Bhawan, or "Fish Square."
The courtyard has
vandalism that
magnificence.
with
it
It
suffered so
is difficult
much from
to realize its former
was formerly
laid
out in marble
flower-beds, water-channels, fountains, and
These were carried
off
the palace of Suraj Mai, at Dig.
A
fish-tanks.
of
ruthless
mosaic and
exquisite
by the Jats
to
large quantity
marble fretwork, from
Handbook
54
this
to
Agra and the Taj
and other parts of the palace, was put up to
auction by Lord William Bentinck,
The
General of India.
fate
when Governor-
Taj only escaped the same
because the proceeds of this sale were un-
satisfactory.
On
open
the side opposite to the throne-room
This also was dismantled
Jats.
The Najina
room,
an
and connected
terrace, originally roofed over
with the Diwan-i-khas.
by the
is
— On the
left
of the throne-
a door leading
is
mosque of white marble,
into a small
Aurangzib
Masjid.
end of the corridor,
at the
for the ladies of the zenana.
Muti Masjid, but
the
thing like
It is
far
by
some-
built
inferior in
design.
The
further corner of
it
opens into a small
chamber, overlooking the courtyard of the Diwani-am,
which
pointed out by the guides as the
is
prison where Shah Jahan
was
confined.
This
may
be accepted or not, according to the choice of the
visitor.
When
wanting,
it
tradition
and
folk.
show
that
prisoner,
ments
very
is
garrulous
distinct
difficult
pure fable
The
historical
in
to
authority
distinguish real
the tales of these
historical evidence
seems
Shah Jahan was not kept
but
is
simply confined to certain
a
to
close
apart-
in the palace.
We will
now
pass over to the river side of the
The Diwan-i-Khas
55
Machhi Bhavvan, and approach that part of the
palace which contains the Diwan-i-khas, or Hall
of Private Audience, the Zanana and Mahal-i-khas,
all built by Shah Jahan and occupied by him in the
They
days of his royal state and sovereignty.
rank with the Diwan-i-khas
Shah Jahan's
exquisite of
classification
I
at
Delhi as the most
buildings.
From
The Taj
on the banks of the river lower down.
stands by
this
purposely omit the Taj, gleaming
itself.
The Diwan-i-Khas.
The Diwan-i-khas was built in 1637. Though
much smaller than the Diwan-i-khas at Delhi,
it
is
certainly not inferior in the beauty of
proportions and decoration.
work
art,
almost
dados, especially, edged
carved with
to
instinct
floral
with
to
flower-
charming, but the
inlaid
that
wonderful
which seems to be born
/
work and
types in the most delicate
perfection
handicraftsman.
directly derived
amounted
All the details are
worship.
is
and inspired by the Persian love
which
of flowers
show
Most of the decorative
of these marble pavilions
from Persian
its
relief,
decorative
in the Oriental
The designer has
naively trans-
lated into marble the conventional Indian flower-
J
Handbook
56
is
all artifice.
Agra and the Taj
were
beds, just as they
but there
to
every palace garden,
in
seeming absence of
perfect art in the
The dados outside the Taj
are similar in
design to these, though larger and correspondingly
bolder in style.
with
its
fine
The roof
coved
of the Diwan-i-khas,
ceiling,
is
interesting for
its
construction.
Jahangir's Throne.
the
— On
the terrace in front of
Diwan-i-khas are placed two thrones, one of
white marble on the side facing the Machhi-Bhawan,
and the other of black
From
slate
on the river
side.
the Persian inscription which runs round
the four sides of the black throne
was made
1603 for Jahangir.
in
we
learn that
it
This was two
years before the death of his father, Akbar, and he
was then only Prince Salim. The throne was,
therefore, probably made to commemorate the
recognition by Akbar of his son's title to the
succession.
On
this terrace
Jahangir sat to enjoy the sight
of his brigantines on the river, or to watch the
elephant fights on
walls.
From
the
place beneath the
level
side to side of his throne there
is
a long fissure, which opened, so says tradition,
when
the Jat Rajah, Jawahar Singh of Bharatpur,
in 1765, set his
Great
Mogul.
usurping
The
feet
on the throne of the
tradition
spurted out of the throne
in
holds
two
that
places,
blood
and red
The
marks
in the
Sam man
Burj
57
stone are pointed out as evidence
The impious
of the truth of the story.
chief
was
shortly afterwards assassinated in the palace.
The
Baths.
— On the side of the terrace directly
opposite to the Diwan-i-khas are the baths, or the
Hammam.
The water was brought up from a
outside
well,
the
walls,
baths, in their present state, are
fine as
those at
below.
70 feet
Fatehpur
These
by no means so
be described
Sikri, to
hereafter.
The Marquis of Hastings, when GovernorGeneral
of
India,
broke
up one of the most
beautiful of the baths of the palace, and sent
home
it
as a present to the Prince Regent, afterwards
George the Fourth.
The Samman
A
doorway
at
Burj.
the back of the Diwan-i-khas
leads to the beautiful two-storied pavilion, sur-
mounting one of the most projecting of the circular
bastions on the river face, and known as the
Samman
The
Burj, "the Jasmine
style of the inlaid
Tower"
work shows
in date than the Diwan-i-khas,
was
it
(Plate V.).
to be earlier
and supports Fer-
by Jahangir.
In that case it must have been the apartment of
his Empress, the beautiful
and accomplished
gusson's conjecture that
it
built
8
—
!
Handbook
5
Nur Mahal.
to
Agra and the Taj
was afterwards occupied by Mumtaz
It
Mahal, the lady of the Taj.
Here, also, in
full
view of the famous monument he had raised to
her memory, died her husband, Shah Jahan
sensualist, perhaps, but true to his last hours to
one great master-passion.
who
The
faithful
Jahanara,
shared his captivity for seven years, attended
him on
closed
his death-bed, and, as the shades of night
in
and hid the Taj from view
Divine forgiveness for his
and with a few
sins,
consoling words to his daughter
— praying
— he went
his beloved
to join
C\u^l\*<\
After the rites prescribed by the
-
Muhammadan
body was placed in a coffin of sandalwood and conveyed by the passage which leads
from the Samman Burj to the low gate beneath it,
which was specially opened for the occasion.
Thence, followed by a procession of mourners, it
was carried out of the Fort through the Sher Haji
gate, nearly opposite (now closed), and conveyed
across the arm of the river to its last resting-place
law, the
in the Taj.
The death
of
Shah Jahan and
minutely described by Mulla
in
his
"Alamgir Nama."
his funeral are
Muhammad Kazim
The guides wrongly
point out a pavilion in the Jahangiri Mahal as the
place
In
where he
died.
front of the
Samman
Burj
is
a beautiful
The Khas Mahal
little
59
fountain hollowed in the floor
of the courtyard
is
;
on one side
a raised platform laid out in
squares of black marble for the
an Eastern backgammon.
game
of pachisi,
1
The Khas Mahal.
From
the
Samman
Burj
we
step into the next
apartments of the zanana, connecting with
the Khas Mahal and a similar set on the other side.
set of
This part of the zanana forms the east, or river side,
of the Anguri Bagh, or Grape Garden. There is
an indescribable grace and charm about all this
quarter of the palace, to which the beauty of
the material, the perfect taste of the ornament
and elegance of the proportions, the delightful
background of the landscape, and the historical
associations
all
contribute.
evening, not
towards
morning
It
the
in
should
full
seen
be
glare
of
the
sun.
When
the
afterglow
fills
the sky, burnishes
the gilded roofs, and turns the marble to rosecolour,
imagination
pavilions with
fair
may
re-people
Indian
these
women — revel
lovely
in
the
1
An ugly modern marble rail, in imitation of wood, probably
of the time when the palace was occupied by the
reminiscence
a
British garrison, still disfigures and stunts the proportions of the
upper storey of the
Samman
Burj.
Handbook
60
to
Agra and the Taj
feast of colour in saris, brocades,
the
azure,
gold,
ceilings
;
fountains
shoots
world
and
crimson
and
listen to the
and carpets
of
the
;
in
painted
water splashing
in the
and gurgling over the carved waterof voluptuous beauty such as the
— a scene
known
has rarely
elegance of
Rome
filled
since the wealth
and
the palaces and villas of
Pompei.
In the walls of the
Khas Mahal are a number
of niches which formerly contained portraits of
Mogul Emperors, beginning with Timur, which,
like so many other things, were looted by the
Rajah of Bharatpur. A number of similar portraits
and other fine paintings of the Mogul period are
preserved in the Government Art Gallery, Calcutta.
the
A
Persian
poem
inscribed on the walls of the
Khas Mahal gives the date of
its
construction,
1636.
The Underground Chambers. — A
staircase to
the south of the Khas Mahal leads to a labyrinth
of underground chambers, in which the Emperor
and
his
zanana found
refuge
from
the
summer
heat of Agra.
there
a well-house, called a baoli; this
is
fierce
In the south-east corner
is
a set
of chambers surrounding a well— a favourite retreat
There were formerly many
in the hot weather.
of the kind round about Agra, constructed by the
Mogul Emperors or their nobles. Besides these
The Angurl Bagh
ease and pleasure, there are
resorts of
dungeons which
meet their
the silent
tell
at the
fate
Jumna
gloomy
of misbehaving slaves and
who were
sultanas,
indiscreet
6t
hurried
down
to
hands of the executioner,
receiving their lifeless bodies.
The Anguri Bagh.
The
is
great quadrangle in front of the
Khas Mahal
the Anguri Bagh, surrounded on three sides by
Akbar and intended for
They were occupied in the Mutiny
arcades, probably built by
his zenana.
days by the British
officers
and their families
who
were shut up in the Fort.
The Anguri Bagh is a very typical specimen of
the old Mogul gardens, laid out in geometrical
flower-beds, with four terraced walks radiating from
the central platform and fountain.
A
stone
trellis
formerly enclosed the flower-beds, and probably
supported the vines which gave the garden
its
name.
Among
the
Lord Curzon
many improvements
in the
Fort
is
lately
made by
the clearance of the
and bedraggled shrubs
which formerly disfigured the quadrangle. If it
wire-netting fernhouses
cannot be kept up in the old Mogul
style,
it
is
certainly better to leave the garden uncultivated.
Shish Mahal.— On the north side of the Anguri
Handbook
62
Agra and the Taj
to
Bagh, close to the zanana, a passage leads to the
Shish Mahal, or "palace of glass."
The marble
bath of the zanana.
This was the
slabs of the floor
have been torn up, and the decoration with a kind
of glass mosaic seems to have suffered from clumsy
A
attempts at renovation.
Mahal leads
The
"
Somnath
"
Bagh,
we
water gate.
Gates.
Mahal, on
Jahangiri
Anguri
to the old
passage from the Shish
the
will
— Before
entering the
opposite
side
pause
at
a
of
corner
the
of
the zanana courtyard, where a small apartment
contains an interesting relic of the Afghan expedition
of
1842
— the
so-called
taken from the tomb of
"Somnath"
Mahmud
gates,
of Ghazni in the
capture of that city by the British.
They were
the subject of a most extraordinary archaeological
by the Governor-General, Lord Ellenborough, who, in a grandiloquent proclamation,
identifying them with the gates of carved sandalwood which Mahmud, according to tradition, had
taken from the celebrated Hindu temple of Somnath in 1025, announced to the people of India that
"the insult of eight hundred years had been
avenged." The gates were conveyed on a triumphal
blunder
car through the towns of northern
India to the
Agra Fort, and deposited there with great ceremony.
As a matter of fact, the wood is deodar, and not
sandalwood, and from the style of the ornament
The Jahanglri Mahal
63
there can be hardly a doubt that the gates were
made
at
or
Ghazni.
near
One
glance
would
convince any expert in Oriental archaeology that
they could not by any possibility have been the
gates of a
It
Hindu temple.
has been supposed that the original gates
were destroyed by
and that these were made
fire,
to replace them, but there seems to be consider-
Mahmud
able doubt whether
really took
away any
from the Somnath temple. It certainly
would have been unusual for the great Muhammadan plunderer to have burdened himself with
gates
an archaeological
relic
which, in those days, was
not easily convertible into cash.
A
horse-shoe which
not, as
is
is
nailed to the gate
is
generally supposed, a propitiation of
the Goddess of Fortune, but a token from the
owner of some
sick
animal that he would bring
an offering to the shrine in the event of a cure
resulting from his
among
visit.
This was an old custom
the Tartars and other
nomad
tribes,
who
valued horses and cattle as their most precious
possessions.
The Jahangiri Mahal.
The
Mahal,
palace called after Jahangir, the Jahangiri
is
in
many
respects the most remarkable
Handbook
64
building of
more
extreme
the
its
striking
the
Agra and the Taj
Nothing could be
class in India.
than
the
pavilions
robust,
of
on
highly
Akbar;
architecture of this palace of
name
effeminacy,
Shah Jahan's
yet
virile,
between
contrast
bordering
elegance,
marble
and
to
the
of
palaces,
imaginative
for
though
much
was planned, and partially, if not
completely, carried out by Akbar with the same
it
bears Jahangir's
doubt that
there cannot be
it
architects
who
perfected
type
built
Fatehpur
of the
style
Sikri.
It
which we see
process of evolution at Fatehpur, and were
we might
for the Taj,
regret
the
is
the
it
in
not
new element
which came into Mogul architecture with ItmadBoth of these styles, which
ud-daulah's tomb.
appear side by side
in the
Agra
Fort, are intensely
men and the times which produced
The one is stamped throughout with the
typical of the
them.
personality
of
Akbar,
the
and
empire -builder,
distinguished by the stately solidity of Jain and
Hindu
architecture.
vigour
of
the
In
earlier
the
Indian
other
styles
the
has
native
been
by the cultured eclecticism of Persia
and Arabia, for the manly dignity of Akbar's
softened
court had given place to the sensual luxury of
Shah
Jahan's.
On
the river side of the palace there
octagonal pavilion placed similarly to the
is
an
Samman
The JahanglH Mahal
Burj,
which
is
very charming
in
its
fresco deco-
though the colour has faded very much.
ration,
It
is
65
possibly this pavilion to which Badayuni,
one of Akbar's biographers, refers when he de-
named Debi, being
scribes a Brahmin,
the walls of the castle,
native bed),
the
till
pulled up
on a charpai (a
sitting
he arrived near the balcony where
Emperor used
to
sleep.
"Whilst thus sus-
pended he instructed his Majesty in the secrets
and legends of Hinduism, in the manner of worshipping
idols, the fire, the sun,
and
stars,
and of
The
revering the chief gods of these unbelievers."
priests of other religions
were similarly carried up
Akbar.
to converse with
Adjoining this
is
a set of small rooms,
known
as Akbar's apartments, which, even in their present
dilapidated state,
show
that they
must have pos-
sessed a richness and beauty of decoration inferior
to
nothing else in the whole Fort.
The dados
were decorated with gesso work on a gold ground.
The borders
of
the
are
relief
wantonly hacked
believe
in
this
is
still
almost
ornament
off
out
intact,
seems
of
to
pure
but the rest
have
been
mischief.
I
the only example of gesso
any of Akbar's buildings.
work
The treatment of
the upper part of the walls with the characteristic
cuspings of Arabian and
Moorish architects
admirable.
F
is
Handbook
66
Agra and the Taj
to
we
Passing through these,
known
as the library, in
cessful
attempt was
restore
painted
the
enter a long
room
which a not very suc-
made some years ago
to
decoration.
be
devoutly hoped that
It
to
is
and other dangerous
this
experiments of the kind will not be continued,
except
under skilled
artistic
The
supervision.
restoration of the structural parts of the palace
and of the stone carving
for the
a
is
more easy
descendants of the very
and carved the palace
matter,
men who
built
practise their art in
still
Agra and round about. This has been admirably
out by the Public Works Department
under Lord Curzon's orders.
carried
The outer
interesting,
original
porch,
dominates
;
(Plate VI.)
it is
is
courtyard, on the riverside,
especially
in
very
a
for
which Saracenic
is
very
elegant
and
feeling
pre-
but on entering the inner courtyard
more easy
to realize that this Palace
one of the great masterpieces of Mogul archi-
The beauty of this
derived not so much from its
tecture.
rich
inner quadrangle
fine
is
proportions and
ornamentation as from the wonderful rhythmic
play of light and shadow, produced by the bracket
form of construction and the admirable disposition
of the openings for doors, windows, and colonnades.
The
north
side
formed by a pillared
of
hall,
the
of
quadrangle
distinctly
is
Hindu
The Salimgarh
design,
full
67
of the feeling of mystery characteristic
The subdued
of indigenous Indian styles.
the interior adds to the impressiveness of
piers stretching their giant brackets
forest trees.
be
A
to the roof
very interesting point of view
obtained
from
the
round the upper part of the
One
great
gnarled and twisted branches of primeval
like the
can
up
light of
its
gallery which
of Jahangir's wives, a
Jodhpur, hence
known
runs
hall.
Hindu princess
of
Jodh Bai, lived in this
room on the west side
of the quadrangle, surrounded by a number of
as
part of the palace, and the
oblong niches,
is
said to have been
her temple,
which the images of Hanuman and other Hindu
deities were kept.
in
On
two
the roof of the Jahangiri Mahal there are
pavilions;
fine
also a
number
which supplied the palace with water.
of
cisterns,
In the side
them there are a number of pipe-holes,
with copper, over each of which is a circular
of one of
lined
stone label inscribed with the part of the palace
to
which
it
gave a supply.
The Salimgarh.
On the rising ground behind the courtyard of
the Diwan-i-am there formerly existed a palace
called the Salimgarh.
Before Jahangir's accession
Handbook
68
he was
known
to
Agra and the Taj
Salim, and
Prince
as
tradition
Fergusson, how-
associates this palace with him.
ever, states that in his time an exquisite fragment
of a palace built by Shere Shah, or his son Salim,
The Salimgarh
existed here.
after the
Delhi
at
named
is
son of Shere Shah, Salim Shah Sur,
who
some doubt as to which of
the two Salims gave his name to the Salimgarh
at Agra.
Akbar's Fort is known to have been
built to replace an older one (known as the
Badalgarh) by Salim Shah Sur, but it is quite
built
it,
and there
is
possible that a part of the palace
left,
and retained the name of
The only
remains
is
part of the
its
may have been
founder.
Salimgarh which
now
a large two-storied pavilion in front of
The upper
the barracks.
carved with
half of the exterior
extraordinary richness.
The
of design certainly indicates the period
is
style
of the
Jahangiri Mahal and Akbar's buildings at Fateh-
pur
Sikri, rather than
Shere Shah's work.
The Jami
Masjid.
Nearly opposite to the Delhi Gate of the Fort
is
the Jami Masjid, or Cathedral Mosque, built by
Jahanara, Shah Jahan's eldest daughter.
the same style
Shah Jahan at
as the splendid
Delhi,
mosque
It
is in
built
by
but far inferior in merit.
The Jam! Masjid
There
is
unusual
a tameness about the
An
that
it
whole design very
in the buildings of this
zag striping of the domes
inscription
is
69
epoch.
The
zig-
decidedly unpleasant.
over the main archway states
was completed
in
the year
a cost of five lakhs of rupees.
1644
a.d.,
at
—
THE TAJ
Arjumand Banu Begam, the favourite wife of Shah
Jahan, is better known by her other name,
Mumtaz Mahal (" the Crown of the Palace"). Her
father was Asaf Khan, who was brother of the
Empress Nur Mahal, Jahangir's wife. She was
thus
granddaughter
the
Itmad-ud-daulah,
Prime Minister, whose tomb, on the
Jahangir's
opposite
of
bank of the
river,
be described
will
hereafter.
was
Khurram
In 1612, at the age of nineteen years she
married to Shah Jahan
— then
Prince
who, though hardly twenty-one, had already another
wife.
This second marriage, however, was a real
love-match,
separable
and Mumtaz was her husband's
companion
military expeditions.
on
all
journeys
his
Shah Jahan,
in-
and
like his father,
allowed his wife a large share in the responsibilities
of government.
as
much
Like
Nur Mahal, she was famed
Her
for her charity as for her beauty.
influence
was
clemency
for criminals
especially exercised
condemned
in
obtaining
to death.
She
.
Handbook
72
to
Agra and the Taj
bore him fourteen children, and died
in
1630,
in
childbed
or the second year after Shah Jahan's
accession to the
throne, at Burhanpur, whither
she had accompanied her husband on a campaign
against Khan Jahan Lodi.
The Emperor was
overpowered with grief. For a week he refused
to see any of his ministers, or to transact any
business of
state.
He
even contemplated resign-
ing the throne and dividing the empire
among
his
For two years the court observed strict
No music or festivities were allowed
the wearing of jewels, the use of perfumes and
sons.
mourning.
luxuries of
;
all
The month
was observed as a
kinds were forbidden.
of Zikad, in which she died,
month of mourning for many years afterwards.
The body of Mumtaz was removed to Agra, and
remained temporarily
in
the garden of
the Taj
while the foundations of the building were being
laid.
now
It
lies.
while the
was then placed in the vault where it
A temporary dome covered the tomb
great monument grew up over it.
The
,
3
It
building of the Taj.
was one of those
.1
intervals in history
when
whole genius of a people is concentrated
on great architectural works, and art becomes
For the Taj was not
an epitome of the age.
the
a
creation
of
a
single
master-mind,
but
the
The Taj
consummation of a great
73
art
workmen
Asia
All
of
had
the
India,
been
their disposal,
for
of his
of
artists,
Arabia, and
to
a
art
Central
the
Shah Jahan desired
grief
and
Mogul court.
great empire were at
attracted
resources
monument
Persia,
Since the
epoch.
time of Akbar the best architects,
should
that this
one of the
be
wonders of the world. VThe sad circumstances
which attended the early death of the devoted
wife
who had endeared
might well inspire
herself
to
the
people
his subjects to join in the
all
Emperor's pious intentions.
According to the old Tartar custom, a garden
was chosen as a site for the tomb a garden
—
planted with
emblems
of
flowers
life,
and flowering shrubs, the
and solemn cypress, the emblem
of death and eternity.
Mogul
days,
Such a garden,
was kept up
as
in
during the owner's lifetime, and used as his
resting-place after his death.
the
a pleasure-ground
The
last
old tradition
down that it must be acquired by fair means,
and not by force or fraud. So Rajah Jey Singh,
to whom the garden belonged, was compensated
by the gift of another property from the Emperor's
laid
private
estate.
Shah Jahan next appointed a
council of the best architects of his empire for
preparing the design for the building.
of
many
Drawings
of the most celebrated buildings of the
;
Handbook
74
to
Agra and the Taj
world were shown and discussed.
It is
even be-
Geronimo Verroneo, an Italian who
was then in the Mogul service, submitted designs for
Shah Jahan's inspection, a fact which has led many
lieved that one
writers into the error of supposing that the Taj, as
completed, was actually designed by him. 1
design eventually accepted was by Ustad
is
Isa,
The
who
stated in one account to have been a Byzantine
Turk, and
in
another a native of Shiraz, in Persia.
The master-builders came from many
parts
different
the chief masons from Baghdad, Delhi, and
;
Multan the dome builders from Asiatic Turkey
and from Samarkand; the mosaic workers from
;
Kanauj
and from Baghdad;
the principal
graphist for the inscriptions from Shiraz.
calli-
Every
part of India and Central Asia contributed the
materials;
the
Jaipur,
the red sandstone
jade and crystal
;
;
Fatehpur
Tibet, turquoises
lazuli and sapphires
Panna
marble;
the Panjab, jasper
;
;
;
Sikri,
China, the
Ceylon, lapis
Arabia, coral and cornelian
Bundelkund, diamonds
onyx and
Twenty thousand men were employed
amethyst.
in the construction, which took seventeen years
to complete. 2 The sarcophagus was originally
in
;
Persia,
discussed at length in an article by the
Taj and its Designers," published in the June
number of the Nineteenth Century and After, 1903.
* Tavernier says twenty-two years probably including all the
1
This question
author, entitled
is
"The
accessory buildings.
The Taj
75
enclosed by a fence or screen of gold studded with
gems. This was removed in 1642, and replaced by
screen
the present exquisite
The Taj
(Plate VII.)-
of
pierced marble
also possessed formerly
wonderful silver doors..
two
Austin de Bordeaux, a
French goldsmith, who was employed by Shah
Jahan in making the celebrated Peacock throne,
may
possibly have executed
work
in the
Taj
but there
;
is
some of
this metal-
no evidence worthy
common Anglo-
of consideration to support the
Indian belief that he designed or superintended
the pietm dura, or inlaid marble decoration of the
building,
which
is
entirely of the Persian school.
[These silver doors were looted and melted down
by the Jats
in 1764^)
Besides the lavish expenditure on the building,
lakhs of rupees were spent in providing the richest
of Persian silk carpets, golden lamps, and magnificent candlesticks.
several lakhs,
A
was made
This was carried
off
sheet of pearls, valued at
to cover the sarcophagus.
by the Amir Husein Ali Khan,
in 1720, as part of his share of the spoil of
The
total expenditure,
amounted
Agra.
according to native accounts,
to nearly 185 lakhs of rupees.
Shah Jahan had intended to
construct a mausoleum for himself opposite to
the Taj, on the other side of the Jumna, and
The
to connect the two by a great bridge.
It
is
said
that
Handbook
76
was interrupted and
project
owing
Agra and the Taj
to
to
were
after the foundations
The
complete^/
never
of Aurangzib, shortly
the usurpation
laid.
Intention of the Taj.
The Taj has been the subject of numberless
critical essays, but many of them have missed the
mark entirely, because the writers have not been
(
with the spirit of Eastern
sufficiently conversant
All comparisons with the Par-
thought.
artistic
thenon or other classic buildings are useless.) One
Homer
cannot compare
Kalidas with
with the Mahabharata, or
The Parthenon was a
Euripides.
temple for Pallas Athene, an exquisite casket to
contain the jewel.
itself.
Indian
affinity
to
symbols.
the
is
The Gothic
much
in
closer
its
cathedral, with
its
spires pointing heaven-
The Mogul
artists,
being prevented by
Muhammadan
religion
attempting sculpture, as understood
in
investing
their great
There
is
from
Europe,
in
architectural
monuments with an extraordinary personal
racter.
ideal
a symbol, as most Eastern buildings are
precepts of the
succeeded
— the
to anything of classic or Renais-
sculptured arches and
is
the jewel
conceptions of the Gothic
great
it is
sance construction.
wards,
is
architecture
the
builders than
The Taj
cha-
a wonderful personality in the
dignity and greatness of Akbar's
tomb
;
we
see
—
——
;
The Taj
77
the scholar and the polished courtier in Itmad-ud-
But the Taj carries
daulah's.
this
idea of per-
sonality further than had been attempted in
Mogul monuments;
of the
represents
it
in
any
art
the
highest development
towards individualism,
the
struggle against
restraints
the
and dogma, which Akbar
of ritualism
initiated in religion.
Every one who has seen the Taj must have
that
there
is
something
in
difficult
it,
or analyze, which differentiates
buildings in the world.
Sir
it
from
to
all
felt
define
other
Edwin Arnold has
struck the true note of criticism in the following
lines
:
"
Not Architecture
as
!
all
others are,
But the proud passion of an Emperor's love
Wrought into living stone, which gleams and soars
With body of beauty shrining soul and thought
... As when some
Divinely
fair unveils
face
before our eyes
Some woman beautiful unspeakably
And the blood quickens, and the spirit leaps,
And will to worship bends the half-yielded knees,
While breath
This
forgets to breathe.
So
is
the Taj l")
not a mere flight of poetic fancy, but
is
a deep and true interpretation of the meaning of
the Taj.
What were
the thoughts of the designers,
and of Shah Jahan himself, when they resolved
to raise a
monument
of the Palace
mausoleum
— Taj
—a
of eternal love to the
Mahal?
Crown
Surely not only of a
sepulchre fashioned after ordinary
Handbook
78
Agra and the Taj
to
architectural canons, but of an architectonic ideal,
symbolical
Those
womanly grace and
her
of
critics
who have
beauty.
objected to the effeminacy
of the architecture unconsciously pay the highest
tribute
to
The Taj
the genius of the builders.
was meant
to
and every
line
be feminine.
and
The whole
detail of
tion of the designers.
conception,
express the inten-
it,
is Mumtaz Mahal
beauty, who still
It
radiant in her youthful
herself,
lingers
on the banks of the shining Jumna, at early morn,
glowing midday sun, or in the silver moon-
in the
Or
light.
more
rather,
we
abstract thought
should say,
it
;
is
it
conveys a
India's noble tribute
womanhood — the Venus de
to the grace of Indian
Milo of the East.
Bearing this
foolish
it
based
on
is
in
mind,
architectural
Many
Europe.
modern
provincial
and impertinent
the Taj
as
of these criticisms,
town
in reference
of
principles
which might be appropriate enough
to a
how
can understand
to formulate criticisms
ordinary
practised in
we
hall,
if
the Taj.
to
applied
are only silly
Some
are born tone-deaf, others colour-blind, and there
are
many who
can find beauty
form or expression of
art
and
in
in
the Taj will always find detractors.
tries to
no others.
So
But whoever
understand the imaginative side of Eastern
thought will leave the
\
one particular
critics to themselves,
and
The Taj
79
J take unrestrained delight in the exquisitely subtle
;
rhythm of
this
marvellous creation of Mogul
The gateway
of the Taj faces a spacious quad-
rangle surrounded by arcades.
serai,
art.
This
a caravan
is
or place where travellers halted.
Here, also,
the poor were provided with food and shelter, and
on the anniversary day vast sums were distributed
in charity
endowed.
from the funds with which the Taj was
It is
well to pause before entering, and
admire the proportions and perfect taste of the
decoration of this gateway
;
for afterwards
no eyes for anything but the Taj
finer in design than the similar
tomb
at
Sikandra.
An
one has
It is
itself.
much
gateway of Akbar's
Arabic inscription
in
black
marble, of passages taken from the Koran, frames
the principal arch, and invites the pure of heart to
enter the Gardens of Paradise.
The
first
view of the Taj
•
is
from within
this
noble portal, framed by the sombre shadow of the
great arch which opens on to the garden.;
end
of a long terrace, its
mirrored
in
the
of
fairy
vision
purity
— seems
the earth, as
the sky.
still
silver-white
if
in a
The beauty
At the
gracious outline partly
water of a wide canal, a
to rest so
— like
lightly, so
moment
!
it
the
spirit
of
tenderly, on
would soar
of the Taj, as in
all
into
great
Handbook
80
to
Agra and the Taj
in its simplicity.
One wonders that so
much beauty can come from so little effort. Yet
art, lies
nothing
is
alter this
The
wanting, nothing in excess
and that and say that
garden, as
it is
originally
better.
planned,
part of one great design.
rows of cypresses were planted so as
;
flower-beds completed the
to help out the
the flowering trees and
harmony with
glow of
colour. 1
Taj
even now, one can
is
was an
The solemn
integral
lines of the architecture
one cannot
;
Beautiful as the
first
a splendid
view of the
hardly realize
how
have been when the whole
t-intention of the design was fulfilled. At present
glorious
it
must
is not a single spot in the garden itself
which gives a view of the composition as a whole.
there
Advancing down the main terrace, paved with
stone and laid out with geometric flower-beds, we
reach
a marble platform
frontispiece),
3
where
a
with
its
fountain (see
nearer view of the
Taj
1
The present garden is a jungle, planted by a European
overseer without any understanding or feeling for the ideas of the
Mogul artists. The overgrown trees entirely block out the view of
the mosques on either side, which are an essential part of the
whole composition, serving as supporters to the slender, detached
I
understand, however, that it is intended to remove
some of the more obstructive of the larger trees but the avenue
of cypress trees, which perished from drought some years ago,
has been replanted on lines which eventually will clash seriously
minarets.
;
with the architectural composition.
2
This represents the condition of the garden twenty or
years ago.
thirty
The Taj
81
Such a platform was the central
The terraces to the
feature in all Mogul gardens.
right and left of it end in two fine pavilions of red
sandstone,)ntended for the accommodation of the
may
be enjoyed.
custodians of the mausoleum and for storehouses.
From
we
this point
can admire the effect of
the exquisite inlaid decoration, fine and precious
as
the
embroidery on the
raiment of
Mumtaz
At the end of the main terrace we reach
the steps leading up to the great platform on which
herself.
the Taj and
its
minarets, "four
court ladies
tall
tending their Princess," are raised.
Let us reverently enter the central chamber,
where Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan, her lord
and lover, lie. Fergusson has truly said, no words
can express
its
chastened beauty seen
gloom of the subdued
light
coming from the distant
The screen
and half-closed openings.
tracery which surrounds the
Even with
which Shah Jahan had
masterpiece.
in the soft
all
tombs
is
of marble
in
itself
a
the artistic resources
command, it was
a work of ten years.
Mumtaz Mahal lies in the
centre.
The white marble of her tomb blossoms
at
his
with a never-fading garden of Persian
which the magic of the Mogul
The
Mumtaz Mahal.
has created.
"The
illus-
Arjumand Banu Begam,
called
inscription on
trious sepulchre of
artists
flowers,
Died
it is
as follows:
in 1040 a.h." (1630 a.d.).
)
G
/
Handbook
82
to
Agra and the Taj
At the head of the tomb
He
everlasting:
there
the line
:
"
He
is
the
and the following
sufficient;"
is
God is He, besides
He knoweth what is
manifest.
He is merciful
passage from the Koran
whom
is
:
"
no God.
is
concealed and what
is
and compassionate."
On one side of it " Nearer
who say Our Lord is God.'"
:
unto
God
are those
'
The
inscription in the
follows
"
:
The
Razwan
abode
sepulchre and
is
as
sacred
Most Exalted Majesty dignified
resting-place of His
as
tomb of Shah Jahan
illustrious
(the guardian of Paradise), having his
in Paradise,
and
his dwelling in the starry
heaven, inhabitant of the
regions of
bliss,
the
second lord of the Qiran, 1 Shah Jahan, the king
May
valiant.
his
abode be
his
in
this transitory
the night
real
flourish,
He
travelled from
the
month of Rajab,
A.D.).
cenotaphs containing the remains of
Shah Jahan and
his wife are immediately
Not the
these tombs, in the vault below.
of the
and may
world to the world of eternity on
of the 28th of
1076 a.h." (1666
The
tomb ever
the heavens.
wonders of
acoustic qualities.
this
It
wonderful building
under
least
is in its
does not respond to vulgar
1
The conjunction of Jupiter and Venus referring to .the circumstance that Timur and himself were born at the conjunction
of these planets. (Keene.)
;
;
The Taj
noises, but
sung
if
a few notes
83
be slowly and softly
and especially if the chord of
they are caught up by
sounded,
be
in this vault,
the seventh
the echoes of the
roof and repeated in endless
harmonies, which seem to those listening above as
if
a celestial choir
were chanting angelic hymns.
"It haunts the air above and around;
in showers upon the polished marble
falls.
...
It is
;
it
distils
rises,
it
it
the very element with which sweet
dreams are builded.
It
is
the spirit of the Taj,
the voice of inspired love!"
Surrounding the central chamber are eight
smaller ones for the mullahs who chanted the
Koran and for musicians who played soft Indian
and Persian melodies. The vault below was only
opened once a year, on the anniversary day, when
the Emperor and all his court attended a solemn
Even on ordinary occasions none but
Muhammadans were admitted into the interior.
festival.
Bernier
tells
us that he had not seen
it,
on that
account, but he understood that nothing could be
conceived more rich and magnificent.
The two mosques
side of
of red sandstone on either
the Taj are in
the
same
style
as the
entrance gateway, the interiors being decorated
with fresco and fine cut plaster-work.
The one
towards the west was intended for prayers only
the floor is panelled into separate spaces for each
Handbook
84
to
Agra and the Taj
The opposite mosque was known
Jamaat Khana, or meeting-place for the
worshipper.
as the
congregation before prayers, and on the occasion
of the great anniversary service.
Standing on the
platform in front of this mosque, one has a splendid
view of the Taj, the
As
the garden
river,
and the distant Fort.
now
is
arranged, a
of the magnificent platform, with
and the Taj
itself,
the
accessible except
by
Agra by
view
two mosques,
can only be obtained from the
opposite side of
leaves
its
full
rail,
river,
boat.
going
|
which
When
east, the
is
not very
the traveller
Taj
in all its
glory can be seen in the distance, floating like the
mirage of some wondrous fairy palace over the
waving
it
tufts
of the
pampas
grass, until
at
last
sinks into the pale horizon.
—
Note. A small museum has been established lately by the
Archaeological Department, in the western half of the Taj main
gateway. It contains an interesting collection of photographs and
drawings of the Taj at different periods, and specimens of the
stones used in the pietra dura, or inlay work of the building.
There are also samples illustrating the technique of pietra dura,
and the tools used by native workmen.
ITMAD-UD-DAULAH'S TOMB
The tomb
Treasurer,"
and
river,
bridge.
It
on the east or
is
bank of the
left
reached by crossing
is
was
High
"the Lord
of Itmad-ud-daulah,
pontoon
the
by Nur Mahal, the favourite
built
mausoleum
wife of Jahangir, as a
for her father,
Mirza Ghias Beg, who, according to one account,
was a Persian from Teheran, and by another
native of Western Tartary.
A
which
He
story
it
is
the Mirza's early
of
told
can only be said, Se non
e vero e
life,
a
of
ben trovato.
his
home, accompanied by his wife and
children, to
seek his fortune in India, where he
left
had some relatives
at
Akbar's court.
provision for the journey
was exhausted
ing the Great Desert, and they were
of perishing from
wife
gave
parents,
birth
hunger.
a
to
distracted
by
his
wife
all
danger
The unhappy
daughter.
hunger and
and
in crossin
In this extremity his
the infant under a solitary shrub.
supporting
His slender
fatigue,
With
children
on
left
the father
the
one
bullock which remained to them, they pushed on
Handbook
86
in the
to
hope of finding
mark where the
Agra and the Taj
relief;
infant
distance, the mother, in a
herself to
the
The
child!"
but as the tiny land-
lay disappeared
paroxysm of
ground, crying,
in
grief,
"My
the
threw
my
child!
piteous appeal forced the father to
return to restore the babe to her mother, and soon
afterwards a caravan appeared in sight and rescued
the whole party.
The
child
born under these romantic circum-
stances became the Empress
this
mausoleum.
Her
Nur Mahal, who
father
where Akbar then held
his
reached
court,
built
Lahore,
and through
the influence of his friends attracted the Emperor's
attention.
His talents
won
for
him speedy pro-
motion, and under Jahangir he became
first
Lord
High Treasurer, and afterwards Wazir, or Prime
Jahangir, in his memoirs, candidly dis-
Minister.
cusses the character of his father-in-law.
a
good
scholar,
possessed
many
position.
His accounts were always
order,
social qualities
and a genial
but "he liked bribes, and
boldness in demanding them."
son,
He was
with a pretty taste for poetry,
On
in
dis-
perfect
showed much
his death
his
Asaf Khan, the father of Mumtaz Mahal, was
appointed to succeed him.
W/
Itmad-ud-daulah and his wife are buried
in the
/ central chamber; his brother and sister and other
members
of his family occupy the four corners.
)
Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb
The
87
pavilion on the roof, enclosed
by beautiful
IX.), contains
only replicas
marble tracery (Plate
The mausoleum was
commenced in 1622 and completed in 1628. As a
composition it may lack inspiration, but it is
of the real tombs beneath.
exceedingly elegant, and scholarly like the Lord
High Treasurer
In construction
himself.
marks
it
Akbar to
from the Jahangiri Mahal
the transition from the style of
that of
Shah Jahan
to
;
towers
at
the
four
corners
the
The
Di\van-i-khas, the Muti Masjid, and the Taj.
might be the
first
suggestion of the detached minarets of the Taj.
The Hindu
which
is
so characteristic of
most of Akbar's buildings
is
here only shown in
feeling
the roof of the central chamber over the
tomb
pure Saracenic architecture a tomb
always
in
is
;
covered by a dome.
This change
in
style
greatly influenced
the
architecture of the whole of the north of India,
It
Hindu and Jain as well as Muhammadan.
must be remembered that comparatively few of
the master-builders
who
actually constructed
the
most famous examples of Mogul architecture were
Muhammadans. The remarkable decline of the
Mogul style which set in under Aurangzib was
largely due to his bigotry in refusing to employ
any but true believers.
The
family ties
of
Itmad-ud-daulah
and
his-
Handbook
88
Agra and the Taj
to
Empress, were closely connected
daughter, the
with Persia and Central Asia; and no doubt the
fashion set
by Jahangir's court
led to the Saracenic
element becoming predominant
both
in
and
construction
in
authorities have connected the
Mogul
in the
marked
style,
Many
decoration.
difference
between Itmad-ud-daulah's tomb and Akbar's buildings
to
Italian
that Jahangir
is
influence, only
known
on
ground
the
have been partial to
to
Europeans, and allowed them free access to his
There
palace.
art
any
in
is not,
however, a trace of
detail of the building;
there
is
Italian
not a
form or decorative idea which had not been used
in India or in Central
Asia for centuries.
work on so extensive a
was only an imitation, or
The use
was a
of marble inlaid
scale
novelty, but
adaptation,
it
of the splendid tile-mosaic and painted tile-work
which were the commonest kinds of decoration
employed in Persia Wazir Khan's mosque at
:
Lahore, built in Jahangir's time,
example of the
The
in
art
India for
here,
of inlaying stone had been practised
many years
making attempts
time,
at
pottery decoration.
art,
a fine Indian
latter.
for the first
Persian
is
before this building; but
do
direct
All
the tree of
life
we
find the inlayers
of Persian
imitation
the
familiar
and other
motifs
of
floral types,
the cypress tree, the flower-vases, fruits, wine-cups,
;
Itmad-ud-DauIah's
Tomb
89
and rose-water vessels are here reproduced exactly
as they are found in Persian mosaic
further,
In Shah
went a step
tiles.
Jahan's palace and in the Taj they
and imitated the more naturalistic treatment
of Persian fresco painting and other pictorial art
but there
never the slightest suggestion of Euro-
is
pean design
shown
in the decoration of these buildings.
quite possible that
It is
Italians
may have
the native inlayers specimens of Florentine
pietra dura,
and suggested to them
this naturalistic
Italians or other
Europeans had
treatment, but
engaged
been
some
if
to
instruct
or
supervise
in
the
decoration of these buildings they would certainly
have
left
some
traces of their handiwork.
technical part of the process the Indian
had nothing to
learn,
and
in the
In the
workmen
made
design they
no attempt to follow European forms, except
in
the one solitary instance of the decoration of the
throne-chamber of the Delhi Palace, which
is
much
tomb.y
exterior
scheme
of
the
decoration
whole
The
so finely carried out, both in arrangement and
later in date than Itmad-ud-daulah's
is
colour, that its extreme elaboration
effect of unquietness.
1
It
is
At a distance
produces no
it
only gives
very probable that the black slate or marble panels in
the Delhi Palace, which are purely Florentine in design, were
imported complete from Italy, and fixed in the wall by Indian
workmen, who only designed the ornamental
the panels.
scrolls
surrounding
Handbook
90
a suggestion
the
surface
to
Agra and the Taj
of a soft
of the
bloom or iridescence on
marble.
The
soffits
doorways are carved with extraordinary
of the
delicacy.
Inside the building there are remains of fresco and
other painted decoration.
Beautifully placed on the river bank, there
a fine
little
charming
mosque, which
picture.
plicity of the
at
sunset
The boldness and
is
makes a
greater sim-
decoration contrast well with the
richness of that of the mausoleum.
THE CHINI-KA-RAUZA
Beyond ltmad-ud-daulah's tomb, on the same
of the
river,
is
a
beautiful
ruin,
side
once entirely
covered with the same Persian mosaic tile-work,
which suggested the more costly style of decoration in inlaid marble.
or the China
It is
Tomb, and
called Chini-ka-Rauza,
is
mausoleum of Afzal Khan,
supposed to be the
a Persian
poet,
who
entered the service of Jahangir, and afterwards
became Prime Minister to Shah Jahan. He died
Lahore in 1639. The weather and ill-treatment
of various kinds have removed a great deal of
the exquisite enamel colours from the tiles, but
enough remains to indicate how rich and magnifiin
cent the effect must have been originally.
A
part
of the south facade which has fallen in shows
how
the builders employed earthen pots to lessen
the
weight
of
the
concrete
followed in the ancient
and Rome.
dome
filling,
a
practice
construction of Egypt
THE RAM BAGH
Among
number of more or
a
houses on this bank of the
less ruined garden-
river, there
is
one, a
beyond the Chini-ka-Rauza, of especial interest,
on account of the tradition which associates it with
little
Emperor Babar.
the
and
and
It is called
regularly planned
Babar
the
Ram
Bagh,
believed to have been one of the "elegant
is
pleasure-grounds
"
which
out and planted with fruit trees and
laid
flowers, as he has described in his memoirs.
No
doubt
this
was the scene of many imperial
picnics; not the drunken revels of Babar's Kabul
days
— for
Rajputs
just
in
before the great battle with
1527 he smashed
drinking-cups and took a
which he kept
faithfully
all his
vow
— but
the
gold and silver
of total abstinence,
the
more sane and
temperate pleasures which music, poetry, and his
intense
delight
furnish.
Here
in
is
the beauties of nature could
a charming picture he has given
of another garden he laid out in the Istalif district
of Kabul
"On
:—
the outside of the garden are large and
;
Ram Bagh
The
93
beautiful spreading plane-trees, under the shade of
which there are agreeable spots,
A
finely sheltered.
perennial stream, large enough to turn a mill,
runs through the garden, and on
planted plane and other trees.
flowed
in
ordered
its
Formerly
banks are
this
a winding and crooked course, but
which added greatly to the beauty of the
Lower down ... on the lower skirts of the
friends),
I
course to be altered according to a plan
its
a fountain,
stream
place.
hills is
named Kwajeh-seh-yaran (Kwajeh three
around which are three species of trees
above the fountain are many beautiful plane
which yield a pleasant shade.
On
the
trees,
two sides of
the fountain, on small eminences at the bottom of
the
hills,
number of oak trees. Except
where there are groves of oak,
there are a
on these two spots,
there
is
not an oak to be met with on the
the west of Kabul.
hills
of
In front of this fountain, towards
the plain, there are
many
spots covered with the
flowering arghwan tree, and, besides these arghwan
plots, there
It
is
are none else in the whole country.
said that these
three kinds of trees were
bestowed on it by the power of these three holy
men, beloved of God and that is the origin of the
;
name Sej-Yaran.
built
I
directed this fountain to be
round with stone, and formed a cistern of
lime and mortar ten yez by ten.
On
the four sides
of the fountain a fine level platform for resting
Handbook
94
to
Agra and the Taj
was constructed on a very neat plan. At the time
when the arghwan flowers begin to blow, I do
not know of any place in the world to be compared
with it. The yellow arghwan is here very abundant, and the yellow arghwan blossom mingles
with the red."
The Ram Bagh was
the temporary resting-place
of the body of Babar before
it
was taken
gardens he loved
for interment in another of the
The
so much.
lost
art,
old
Mogul
and one misses
Kabul
to
style of gardening
the
in
Ram Bagh
is
a
the
rows of cypress, interspersed with flowerthe formal flower-beds glowing with
colour like a living carpet, which were planted by
stately
ing
trees,
Babar; but the terraces, the fountain, the waterchannels, and
the
little
stone water-shoots
— cun-
ningly carved so that the water breaks over them
recalled
to
mountain-streams
— the
water of the Jumna
can
still
—
which may have
him the murmurings of his native
with a pleasant gurgling sound
is
old well
lifted
from which the
be seen, as well as the pavilions on the
river-bank,
now modernized
In later times the
with modern bad
Ram Bagh was
house of the Empress Nur Mahal.
by
all
the channels,
into
It
succeeding Governments, and
have obtained
its
name
of
was kept up
it
Ram Bagh
Mahrattas in the eighteenth century.
taste.
the garden-
is
said
to
from the
The
Ram Bagh
95
The Zuhara Bagh.— Between
Rauza and the
Ram Bagh
there
is
the
Chini-ka-
another great
walled enclosure, which contained the garden-house
of Zuhara, one of Babar's daughters, and
after her the
is
named
Zuhara, or Zohra Bagh. This formerly
contained the largest garden-palace at Agra, and
said
A
to
is
have possessed no less than sixty wells.
great well, just outside the enclosure, 220 feet
in circumference,
and of enormous depth, was
up some years ago.
filled
SIKANDRA
Sikandra, a village about
and
two
the
burial-place
The
roads.
five
miles from Agra,
of Akbar,
is
older one follows, to
reached
some
by
extent,
the alignment of the great military road to Lahore
and Kashmir, planned by Babar and completed
by
his successors.
A few of
the kos-minars, pillars
—
which marked off the kos a distance of about
two and a half miles can still be seen along
—
the road, or in the adjoining fields.
Numerous remains
are passed on the way
of archaeological
of the old road.
Delhi gate of the old city walls.
further,
on the right-hand
enclosure,
Abul
named
Fazl,
biographer.
interest
First the
About a mile
side, is a great
after Ladli
Begam, the
walled
sister of
Akbar's famous Prime Minister and
It
formerly contained her tomb, as
well as that of Sheikh Mubarak, her father, and
of Faizi, her eldest brother.
Many
years ago the
whole enclosure was sold by Government. The
purchasers, some wealthy Hindu merchants of
Muttra, promptly
pulled
down
the
mausoleum,
Sikandra
realized the materials,
built a pavilion
In front of the great gateway
site.
on the
was a splendid
or well-house, the largest in the neighbourhood
baoli,
of
and
97
This was
Agra.
Not
far
Kandahari
up about five years ago.
from Ladli Begam's garden is the
Bagh, where the first wife of Shah
filled
Jahan, a daughter of Mozaffar Husein,
the great-grandson of
Shah Ismail
who was
Safvi,
King of
Persia, is buried.
About
a mile further along the road, on
left-hand side,
is
the
a curious statue of a horse in red
was put up by a
nobleman whose favourite horse was killed at this
spot the syce who was killed at the same time has
his tomb close by.
sandstone, which, tradition says,
;
Nearly opposite to
called
this is a large dried-up tank,
the Guru-ka-Tal, which, with the adjacent
ruined buildings, are attributed to Sikandar Lodi,
one of the Afghan predecessors of the Mogul
Emperors, who has given his name to Sikandra.
Akbar*s Tomb.
Akbar's tomb stands in the midst
of a vast
garden, enclosed by four high battlemented walls.
In the centre of each wall is an imposing gateway
seventy feet high.
The
principal one, on the west
side,
has an inscription in Persian, which states that
the
mausoleum was completed by the Emperor
H
Handbook
98
to
Agra and the Taj
Jahangir, in the seventh year of his reign, or 1613
a.d.
elaborately ornamented with bold but
It is
seem
to
were unaccustomed
to
rather disjointed inlaid patterns, which
show
that
the designers
method of decoration.
this
Neither are the four
minarets at the corners of the roof, which are said
by the Jits, contrived with the
usual skill of the Mogul architects. Above the gateway is the Nakkar Khana, an arcaded chamber with a
balcony, where at dawn and one watch after sunrise
the drums and pipes sounded in honour of the dead.
The mausoleum was commenced by Akbar
to have been broken
himself.
It
different
is
Mogul monument,
Muhammadan
Akbar
is
plan from any other
in
contrary
and,
to
the
usual
custom, the head of the tomb of
turned towards the rising sun, and not
towards Mecca.
The whole
structure gives the
impression of a noble but incompleted idea; both
in
its
greatness and in
typical of
The
Akbar and
his
its
incompleteness,
it
is
work.
was somewhat modified by
He has stated in his memoirs that on
Jahangir.
his first visit to the tomb after his accession he.
was dissatisfied with the work which had been
original design
done, and ordered certain parts of
Fergusson supposes that
was
of
to cover the
the
it
to be rebuilt.
original
intention
tombstone and raised platform
the uppermost story with
a
domed canopy,
Sikandra
and
in
this
he
William Finch,
is
99
supported by a statement of
who
mausoleum when
visited the
was being built, that it was to be " inarched over
with the most curious white and speckled marble,
it
to be ceiled
inwrought."
all
within with pure sheet gold richly
Such
a
canopy
is
just
what
is
required by aesthetic considerations to complete
curiously truncated
the
story,
and there
design to make
is
it
is
appearance
nothing
in
the
of the
top
structural
impossible or improbable.
The approach to the interior of the mausoleum
through the central archway of the lower story,
which opens into a vestibule richly ornamented
with raised stucco work, and coloured in blue and
gold, somewhat in the style of the Alhambra.
A part of this decoration has been lately restored.
An
inclined
passage,
like
the
entrance
to an
Egyptian pyramid, leads down into a high vaulted
chamber, dimly lighted from above, where a simple
sarcophagus of white marble contains the mortal
remains of the great Akbar. Whatever decoration
there
with
may have been on the walls is now covered
whitewash. The Emperor's armour, clothes,
and books, which were placed beside the tomb,
are said to have been carried off by those insatiable
marauders, the Jats of Bharatpur.
Smaller chambers surrounding the central one,
on the level of the platform, contain the tombs of
Handbook
ioo
to
Agra and the Taj
two of Akbar's daughters and a son of the Emperor
Shah Alam. These also have suffered much from
neglect and whitewash. The whole of the facade
of the lower story was originally faced with red
sandstone, or perhaps with fine stucco decorated
in fresco.
The present
common
coat of
plaster
is
modern work, which, except as a protection for the
brickwork, would have been better left undone.
The lower story is 320 feet square. Above
this are three others, diminishing in size up to the
highest, which is just half these dimensions. The
roof of the topmost is surrounded by cloisters,
the outer arches of which are
marble tracery (Plate
raised platform,
is
X,)-
filled
In
with very
the
centre,
a solid block of
fine
on a
pure white
marble, delicately carved with flowers and sacred
representing
texts,
the
real
tomb
in
the vault
At the head is the inscription, "Allah-oAkbar" (God is Great), and at the foot, "J alii
These
Jalalohu" (Magnificent is His Glory).
sentences were the formula of Akbar's new
religion, which he called " The Divine Faith."
On
beneath.
God are
The carved marble
tomb was a stand
the sides the ninety-nine attributes of
carved
in the
pedestal
for a
at
Arabic character.
the
end of the
golden censer.
The Kanch Mahal. — Outside
Akbar's tomb, a
little
the enclosure of
to the east of the principal
101
Slkandra
entrance,
is
a
rare and
remarkably
fine
example
Mogul domestic architecture. This is a twostoried building, known as the Kanch Mahal, and
supposed to have been built by Jahangir as a
of
country
seat.
In
its
extremely elaborate
mentation, inlaid stone and enamelled
orna-
have
tiles
combined with the carving.
The repairs lately carried out under Lord Curzon's
orders have been very carefully done, though it
been most
is
effectively
new work
be reproduced. Our
easy to see the inferiority of the
where the old carving had
to
fatuous policy of adopting European styles in
public buildings
in
India
bound
is
to
all
cause a
deterioration in the native art handicrafts, for
sprung.
Unless this policy
is
it
which they have
closes the principal source from
reversed, nothing
will prevent the ultimate extinction of Indian art.
Suraj-Bhan-ka
Bagh.
—This
storied building of about the
is
two-
another
same period, but not
Agra road, at a
quite so fine in style, facing the
little
distance from the
Kanch Mahal.
Mariam Zamani'sTomb.
— A short distance further
on, in the direction of Muttra, is the building sup-
posed to have been originally the garden house of
Sikandar Lodi, in which Mariam Zamani, one of
Akbar's wives,
been used for
ment
for a
is
said to have been buried.
many years
It
has
as a printing establish-
Mission Orphanage.
—
OTHER BUILDINGS AND TOMBS AT
OR NEAR AGRA
The tomb
of Feroz Khan, opposite to the third
milestone on the Gwalior road,
building of Akbar's
time,
corated with tile-work.
an interesting
is
and de-
richly carved
Close by
is
tomb of
the
the
Pahalwari, where a celebrated wrestler of Shah
Jahan's time
is
There are a considerable
buried.
number of buildings and numerous ruins in Agra,
and round about, which possess only historical
or archaeological
following
interest.
The Kali Masjid,
called the
or Black Mosque, otherwise
Kalan Masjid, or Grand Mosque,
Akbar
Shah Jahan's
the early
style.
of
first wife,
This
is
It
was
built
is
of
by the father
the Kandahari Begum.
near to the Government dispensary.
In the Nai-ki-Mundi quarter
Shah Ala-ud-din
Alawal Bilawal,
Shere Shah.
madan
town are the
In the
:
He
Majzub,
a saint
is
the
mosque of
commonly known
who
as
lived at the time of
established a school of
Muham-
law, and founded a monastery besides the
mosque.
The accumulations round
the
mosque
Other Buildings and Tombs at or near Agra
103
have reached up to the springing of the arches,
and tradition accounts for this by the following
story
A camel-driver in Shere Shah's service
:
stabled his beasts in the mosque, in spite of the
Thereupon the building
protests of the saint
began to sink into the ground, and did not cease
descending until the camels and their driver were
crushed to death.
The Hamman, or Baths
of
Ali Verdi
Khan,
in Chipitolla Street, built in the time of Jahangir.
An
inscription over the
gateway gives the
date,
1620 a.d. They cannot be compared in interest with
the splendid " Hakim's Baths," at Fatehpur Sikri.
The Roman Catholic Cemetery, in the quarter
known as Padritollah, near the Law Courts, is one
of the most ancient Christian cemeteries in India.
The ground was granted to the mission by
Emperor Akbar. There are a number of
the
Portuguese and Armenian tombs dating from early
in
the
seventeenth
century.
It
also
contains
tomb of the notorious Walter Reinhardt,
or Samru, as he was called, the founder of the
principality of Sirdhana, whose history is given
The Dutch General Hessing, who held
at p. 38.
Agra Fort for the Mahrattas in 1794, has a very
florid mausoleum of red sandstone, more curious
the
than beautiful, the design of which
of the Taj.
is in
imitation
FATEHPUR
SIKRI
FATEHPUR
Fatehpur Sikri
is
SIKRI
the famous deserted city, about
twenty-three miles from Agra, built by Akbar.
was formerly merely a
It
village, called Sikri, cele-
brated as the abode of Sheikh Salim Chishti, a
Muhammadan pir,
In 1564, Akbar, return-
or saint.
ing from a campaign, halted near the cave in which
the saint lived.
wife,
anxious for an
who
The twin
children of his Rajput
Mariam Zamani, had recently
He
heir.
Emperor did
so,
who was
Mariam,
and
and he was
consulted the holy man,
come and
advised him to
died,
nine
The
live at Sikri.
months
taken to Chishti's
afterwards
cell
her
for
confinement, gave birth to a son, afterwards the
Emperor
Jahangir.
honour of the
He was
saint.
called Sultan Salim in
Jahangir,
who
describes
all
"
My
my
these circumstances in his memoirs, adds
:
revered father, regarding the village of Sikri,
as
birthplace,
capital,
and
years the
in
hills
fortunate
to
himself,
made
it
his
the course of fourteen or fifteen
and deserts, which abounded
in
beasts of prey, became converted into a magnificent
Handbook
108
city,
to
Agra and the Taj
comprising numerous gardens, elegant edifices
and pavilions, and other places of great attraction
and beauty. After the conquest of Gujerat, the
was named Fatehpur (the town of victory)."
The glory of Fatehpur Sikri was short-lived.
Akbar held his court there for seventeen years, and
then removed it to Agra; some say on account of
village
V
the badness of the water supply, others that the
saint,
disturbed in his devotions by the bustle and
gaieties of the great city, declared that either he or
Akbar must go. "Then," replied the Emperor, "let
it be your servant, I pray."
The entire city was
given up to the beasts of the surrounding jungle.
Finch,
who
visited
reign, describes
desert,
it
it
M
:
in the early part of the
Ruin
and very dangerous
all
;
next
lying like a waste
to pass
through
in the
was an exaggeration, for
still in a good state of
preservation, probably owing to the remoteness
of the place from any great highway or large
night."
This, however,
the principal buildings are
town.
The city, which was some six miles in circuit,
was surrounded on three sides by high battlemented
The fourth side
walls, which had nine gateways.
was formed by a great artificial lake, now dry. The
principal buildings are on the summit of the high
ridge which runs throughout the length of
city.
the
MAP
OF
FATEHPUR SIKRI
SHOWING THE WALLS & GATES.
Chor
Fatehpur Sikri
The Agra Gate. — The
the
Agra
109
visitor usually enters
by
Gate, concerning which an amusing story
One
night Akbar, attended by some of his
was inspecting the ramparts near this
when he observed a highway robbery being
is told.
ministers,
gate,
committed close by the
walls.
Turning severely
those responsible for the peace of the
city,
demanded why such an outrage was permitted
the very presence of the Emperor.
darkest directly under the
to
he
in
always
" It is
shadow of the lamp," was
the courtly reply.
J The Naubat Khana. — Inside
passes,
by the
right, a large
the gate the road
quadrangle surrounded
by a ruined cloister, which was probably used for
barracks.
Beyond
this the
road was formerly lined
on both sides by the houses of the bazar. It next
passes through the inner gateway, called the Naubat
Khana, or Music House, where, as
in
Mogul
all
fortresses, the court musicians played to announce
the Emperor's arrival or departure, and various
state ceremonials.
The
Mint.
— Some
Khana, on the right,
is
distance beyond the
Naubat
a large building believed to
Rare specimens of
and copper coins from the Fatehpur
have been the Imperial Mint.
gold, silver,
Mint are
in the British
Museum.
The
brick
domes
of this building are interesting, as they are probably
the earliest examples in India of the use of radiating
no
Handbook
Agra and the Taj
to
courses instead of horizontal layers in
dome
con-
struction.
Opposite to the Mint
a smaller building
is
known
as the Treasury.
The Daftar Khana. — Passing through
the great
quadrangle of the Diwan-i-am, the visitor arrives
the Daftar Khana, or Record Chamber,
for a travellers' rest-house.
and
is
This was Akbar's
own
immediately opposite to his
at
now adapted
office,
sanctum,
the Kwabgah, and the principal buildings of the
Imperial
room
Palace.
A
staircase
in
the
south-east
leads to the roof, from which a fine view of
the city and surrounding country can be obtained.
The
principal buildings can be easily identified by
help of the plan.
The
Palace.
—A
door
rangle, opposite to the
in the side of the
Daftar Khana, leads into
Akbar's palace, the Mahal-i-Khas.
building on the
left
private apartments.
quad-
The
two-storied
on entering contains Akbar's
The
first
room on
the ground
numerous recesses for keeping
books, documents, or valuables. There are some
floor is panelled into
remains of painted decoration representing flowers,
such as the
tulip,
poppy, and almond flower, executed
with much vigour and technical
skill.
Behind
this
chamber which, according to Edmund Smith,
v^was used by a Hindu priest attached to Akbar's
^)?v^court.
It contains a stone platform raised on
is
a
Fatehpur Slkri
ill
upon which he is said to have performed
his devotions.
It was more probably intended for
Akbar's own gadd i, or throne. A door in the west
wall leads into the cloisters, which formerly connected Akbar's apartments with the Daftar Khana
pillars,
and with Jodh
Bai's palace.
The Kwabgah,
or sleeping apartment,
pavilion on the roof.
is
a small
Originally the walls were
by fresco paintings, but only a few
fragments now remain. Unfortunately, these have
been protected by a coat of varnish, which reduces
entirely covered
them
that
monochrome. It is to be regretted
a more scientific method of preserving them
all
to a dull
They
was not adopted.
are
all in
the Persian style,
and, except for the Chinese element which
present in Persian
Edmund
On
is
no ground
fori
the side
here.
window over
the eastern
doorway
a painting of a winged figure, in front of a rock
cave, supporting a
all
there
Smith's supposition that Chinese artists!
were employed
is
art,
is often,
probability
it
new-born babe
in its arms.
In
refers to the birth of Jahangir in
the cell of the Saint Salim Chishti, which Akbar,
no doubt, thought miraculous.
make
Many archaeologists
the great mistake of attributing every
figure in these decorations to
some
winged
Biblical story^
Heavenly beings with wings, the inhabitants of
Paradise, spirits of the air, or " angels," are very
Handbook
ii2
common
Agra and the Taj
to
Persian and Indian painting, and are by
in
no means a monopoly of European
known
It is
that
Abul
painting.
artists.
Akbar took a great
interest in
Fazl, in the " Ain-i-Akbari," states
that "
His Majesty from the
shown
a great predilection for the
earliest
art,
youth has
and gives
it
every encouragement, as he looks upon it as a
means both of study and amusement. Hence the
art flourishes,
and many painters have obtained
great reputations.
weekly
laid
The works
of
painters are
all
before his Majesty by the Daroghas
and the clerks
;
he confers rewards according to
the excellence of workmanship, or increases their
monthly
salaries.
Much
progress was made in the
commodities required by painters, and the correct
prices of such articles
were carefully ascertained."
Akbar himself remarked,
"
Bigoted followers of
the law are hostile to the art of painting, but their
now
eyes
as
if
men
I
dislike.
It
that hate
me
appears to
a painter had a peculiar means of recognizing
God;
has
There are many
see the truth.
painting, but such
for a painter,
life
and
in
in
drawing
sketching anything that
its
limbs,
must
he
feel that
cannot bestow personality upon his work, and
thus forced to think of God, the giver of
will thus increase his
court
artists.
of
life,
is
and
knowledge." The enlightened
Akbar was evidently
a
paradise
for
Fate hpur Sikri
y
113
Opposite to Akbar's apartments
is
a large square
tank with a platform in the centre, approached by
The tank was
four narrow stone paths.
filled
from
the waterworks near the Elephant Gate, and the
water was kept constantly fresh by an overflow
channel connecting with the tank
at the
back of the
Diwan-i-Khas.
The Turkish Sultana's House. — In
east angle
the north-
Mahal-i-Khas quadrangle
of the
small, picturesque
a
is
one of the gems of
building,
Fatehpur, called the Turkish Sultana's House.
It
contains only a single apartment, surrounded by a
verandah, but
carving
the
in
within and without there
and decorative
Mogul
skill
of
for
the
rendering
of
They have
suffered
trees,
every surface
a wealth of invention
rarely achieved even
The dado panels
artists.
remarkable
is
charming
flowers,
conventionalized
birds,
much from
by the
are especially
and animals.
the hands of
of Aurangzib's fanatical followers, and
all
some
the repre-
sentations of animate nature have been mutilated.
The carving was intended
as a
groundwork
for
painting and gilding which were never added, for
the Fatehpur Palace
was
finished.
the lady
who
was abandoned even before
Nothing
is
known with
it
certainty of
inhabited this delightful bower, but
she must have been one of Akbar's favourites.
covered passage
A
connected the house with the
1
Handbook
ii4
Agra and the Taj
to
Kwabgah, and also with another block of buildings
of no special interest, known as the Girls' School.
A staircase from
to
some
the south verandah leads
down
interesting baths outside the south-west
corner of the Diwan-i-am quadrangle, which were
probably for the use of the Turkish Sultana.
They
are worth seeing, though not so fine as the so-called
Hakim's Baths.
The
latter,
which are situated just
opposite to these baths, on the steep slope of the
ridge, are the finest of their kind existing in India.
They form an extensive hydropathic
decorated
in the
most excellent
establishment,
taste with polished
plaster and sgraffito, or cut-plaster work.
Undoubt-
edly they were used by Akbar himself, and they
derive their present
name from their close proximity
to the quarters occupied
Pachisi
Board.
by the Hakims, or doctors.
— In
great palace quadrangle
the northern half of the
is
a pachisi board, cut on
Samman
the pavement, similar to the one in the
Here Akbar and the ladies
would amuse themselves by playing
Burj in the Agra Fort.
of the Court
the
game with slave
The
girls as living pieces.
were thrown on the small platform
in the
dice
centre of
the board.
The Diwan-i-Khas. — Further towards
immediately opposite to the Kwabgah,
detached building, a
fine
style of the period, for
it
the north,
is
a square
example of the dignified
owes none of its effects to
—
Jitlinsli'ii
ami
//otfuuin, I'/ioto-]
Plate XI.
interior of the diwan-i-khas, eatehpur sikri.
;
Fatehpur Sikri
115
imposing dimensions, but only to the
which the architect has treated a
This
the
is
Audience.
or
Diwan-i-Khas,
On
the outside
it
skill
with
difficult subject.
Hall
of
Private
would appear
a two-storied building, but on entering
it is
to be
seen to
contain only a single vaulted chamber, surrounded
halfway up by a gallery.
A
magnificent carved
column, with a gigantic bracket capital (Plate XL),
standing alone in the centre of the chamber, supports four branches or railed passages, which meet
this gallery at the four corners.
construction
carried
This most original
Akbar's throne, which was
placed immediately over the great column.
The
ministers attended at the four corners of the gallery
the great nobles and others admitted to the audi-
ence thronged the floor beneath.
approached by two staircases,
the walls,
which also lead up
The
gallery
is
in the thickness of
to the roof. 1
1
It is known that in 1575 Akbar completed a great building at
Fatehpur, called the Ibadat Khana, or hall in which the learned
men of all religions assembled for discussion. It was described as
containing four halls, the western for the Sayyids, or descendants
of the Prophet
the southern for learned men who had studied or
;
acquired knowledge
wisdom
;
the northern for those famed for inspired
the eastern hall was reserved for the nobles
and state
Thousands of people from all quarters of the world
assembled in the courtyard. The Emperor attended every Friday
night and on holy festivals, moving from one to the other of the
guests and conversing with them.
Keene, in his " Handbook to
Agra," suggests that possibly the Diwan-i-khas may be the building
thus described (taking the word aiwan, or hall, to mean a side
officers.
:
n6
Handbook
Agra and the Taj
to
The Ankh-Michauli. — Close by
the
Diwan-i-
side, is a
building which the
native guides, always ready to
amuse the innocent
Khas, on the west
tourist, describe as the
man's Buff House."
Ankh-Michauli, or "Blind-
There
is
a legend that Akbar
here played hide-and-seek with the ladies of the
The same
zanana.
apartments
story
is
in the Jahangiri
but the only ground for
told
Mahal
it
about a set of
in the
seems
arrangement of the rooms might lend
diversions.
rooms
Agra
Fort,
to be that the
itself to
such
most probably contained strong-
It
for the safe
custody of valuables, either state
archives or jewels.
—At
AnkhMichauli is a square platform covered by a domed
canopy. The great carved brackets which support
The
Yogi's Seat.
the corner of the
the architraves are very characteristic of Jaina con-
This was the seat of one of the Yogis,
struction.
who
much
or Hindu fakirs,
enjoyed the Emperor's favour.
Akbar devoted
attention to the occult
claimed by these men.
and showed
in
public
He
powers
even practised alchemy
some of the gold made by
him.
at all answering to the description
This supposition is highly improbable,
if only for the reason given by Edmund Smith, namely, that an
assembly of this kind would not take place within the precincts of
the palace. The description given by Abul Fazl and Badayuni
clearly indicates a building like the Diwan-i-am, enclosing a great
gallery), as
no other building
now remains
quadrangle.
at Fatehpur.
Fatehpur Slkri
The
Hospital.
— Adjoining
117
the
Ankh-Michauli
was
are the remains of a long, low building, which
the wards
a few of
the hospital;
still
remain.
Possibly this was arranged on the model of the
Akbar allowed the
hospital which
to
build
in
the
city.
He
Jesuit Fathers
them
also permitted
The records of the
Akbar once came there
to construct a small chapel.
missionaries
removed
alone,
first
us that
his
turban and offered prayers,
kneeling in the Christian manner, then pros-
trating
himself according
custom, and,
One
tell
finally, after
Muhammadan
the ritual of the Hindus.
of the Christian congregation
about this time, he granted
funeral
of
the
to
procession to
Fatehpur
Catholic
faith.
with
Many
permission for the
pass through
the
all
having died
the
ceremonies
of the
streets
of
inhabitants,
the
both
Hindus and Muhammadans, attended the funeral.
Akbar was never persuaded to become a convert
to Christianity, nor does there appear to be any
ground for the belief that one of his wives was a
Christian.
The
—The
west side of the Diwani-am (Hall of Public Audience) and its cloisters
Diwan-i-am.
coincide for the whole length with the east of the
The description already given
of the Diwan-i-am at Agra will explain the functions for which this building was intended.
The
palace quadrangle.
n8
Handbook
to
Agra and the Taj
or judgment seat, of Akbar was placed
throne,
between two pierced stone screens
in the
verandah
in front of the hall.
The Panch Mahal.— This
pavilion
is
curious five-storied
nearly opposite to the Diwan-i-am.
is
It
approached by a staircase from the Mahal-i-khas.
Each
story
was
stone screens;
originally enclosed
and the
this,
building overlooked the
tolerably certain that
it
fact
by pierced
whole
that the
palace zanana,
make
it
could only have been used
promenade by Akbar and the ladies of the
court.
The ground-floor, which was divided into
cubicles by screens between the columns, may, as
Keene suggests, have been intended for the royal
as a
and their attendants.
children
chiefly
remarkable
shown
in
for
The
invention
the
building
and
is
taste
the varied designs of the columns, in
which the three principal styles of Northern India,
the Hindu, Jain, and Saracenic, are indiscriminately
combined.
Miriam's Kothi.
— Another
side of the palace
doorway
in the
west
quadrangle leads to Miriam's
House, a very elegant two-storied building showing marked Hindu
Rama
incarnation
feeling
in
the
design.
The
of Vishnu appears on one ot
the carved brackets of the verandah.
It
seems
name from Akbar's Hindu wife,
Her
Mariam Zamani, the mother of Jahangir.
to have derived its
Fatehpur Slkri
name
literally
means
designation used by
"
Mary
of the age," a
common
Muhammadan women in honour
of the Mother of Jesus.
that the
119
This has led to the fable
house was occupied by a Christian wife
The whole
of Akbar.
covered with
fresco
building
was
and
paintings
originally
gilding,
and
was hence called the Sonahra Makan, or " Golden
House." The frescoes are supposed to illustrate
Firdousi's great epic, the Shahnama, or history of
* the Kings of Persia.
As in the Kwabgah, the
fragments which remain have been covered with
varnish as a preservative, which has had the effect
of destroying
possessed
the
charm of colour they once
will eventually,
paintings are
J
when
age, obliterate
all
them
the varnish
altogether.
in the style of the
who were employed by Akbar
artists
his
all
and
brown with
turns
The
;
Persian
to illustrate
books and to paint the portraits of his Court.
Over the doorway
building
is
in the
a painting
north-west angle of the
which the guides, perhaps
by the suggestion of some uninformed
misled
traveller, point out as " the
Annunciation."
There would be nothing prima, facie improbable
Akbar should have caused some events of
Biblical history to be painted on the walls of his
that
palaces
;
but,
on the other hand, there
whatever to connect
tion.
The winged
this fresco
is
nothing
with the Annuncia-
figures here represented are of
Handbook
i2o
the type
Agra and the Taj
to
commonly found
in paintings of stories
from Persian mythology.
Perhaps the most interesting of
ings
is
a
portrait
One would
rooms.
in
a
like to
the lady of the house
;
tradition connected with
panel
in
all
the paint-
one
know whether
of
the
this
was
but there seems to be no
it.
Judging from the style of the frescoes, it would
seem probable that this was not the residence of
Mariam Zamani, but of one of Akbar's first two
wives,
whose connections were mostly with
Jodh
Though
Bai's Palace.
Miriam's House
"
as the abode of
Persia.
" is
generally regarded
Mariam Zamani, there
is
a great
deal to support the view that the spacious palace
known as Jodh Bai's Mahal, or Jahangiri Mahal,
was really her residence. It is undoubtedly one of
the oldest buildings in Fatehpur.
We
know
that
Akbar went there on Mariam's
account; and, after Jahangir's birth, Akbar's
care
would be
to build a palace for the
her child, his long-wished-for
j
Hindu, and
nearly
and
mother and
Mariam was
this palace in all its construction
all its
Jaina
heir.
first
a
and
ornamentation belongs to the Hindu
styles
of
Mariam's
native
country,
JODH
PLAN OF
BAI'S PALACE
^
zlt\
50
Scale of Feet
50
100
Jodh Bai's Palace
Rajjnitaria.
121
even contains a Hindu temple. 1
It
It
and
also the most
Mariam, as mother of the heir-apparent, would take
important of all the palaces,
is
precedence of
On
house.
the
A
all
left
the other wives.
of the entrance
a small guard-
is
simple but finely proportioned gateway
leads through a vestibule into the inner quadrangle.
The
style of the
whole palace
is
much
than the other zanana buildings, but
dignified
and
in
excellent taste.
It
it
less ornate
is
always
must be
re-
membered that the severity of the architectural
design was relieved by bright colouring and rich
purdahs, which were used to secure privacy for the
ladies of the
zanana and to diminish the glare of the
sunlight
Archseologically
its
construction and ornamen-
tation are very interesting.
Many
are of Jain origin, and of the
of the details
same type
as the
mixed Jain and Saracenic sti'le, which was being
developed about the same period in Gujerat. The
1
Keene suggests that Akbar's first wife and cousin, Sultana
Raqia Begam, lived here, but she was a Muhammadan. It is
quite possible that the name of Jodh Bai (Princess of Jodhpur)
really refers to Mariam, and not to Jahangir's Rajput wife (the
daughter of the Raja of Jodhpur), as is commonly supposed.
Mariam's family resided in the province of Ajmir, which adjoins
She might have been known as the Princess of
Jodhpur.
Jodhpur. In any case, it is easy to see how a confusion might
have arisen between Jahangir's mother and his wife, both Hindus
and Rajputs.
;
Handbook
122
arrangements
annexed
features
of
the
Hawa
the
from the north
breezes
and
of
most
the
in
the
interesting
enclosed by pierced stone
could enjoy the cool
ladies
view
the
shown
palace are
Mahal, a pavilion projecting
side,
Here the
screens.
Agra and the Taj
One
plan.
is
to
the
of
with
lake
the
distant hills beyond, without being exposed to the
vulgar gaze.
The
palace
was formerly connected
with Akbar's private apartments by a covered way,
supported on
pillars,
removed some years
led
from the
near the entrance.
ago.
This was
Another private passage
Hawa Mahal
to the zanana garden
opposite, and, probably, from thence right
the tower
known
down
to
as the Hiran Minar.
Rajah Birbal's House, or Birbal's Daughter's
House.
Rajah
Birbal
was a Brahman
minstrel,
who
came to Akbar's court in the beginning of his reign,
and by his wit and abilities gained the Emperor's
He was first created Hindu Poet Laureate
favour.
from that dignity he was raised to the rank of
Rajah, and became one of Akbar's most intimate
Birbal was one of those who
friends and advisers.
subscribed to Akbar's
Faith."
When
he
new
religion,
perished
in
an
"The Divine
unfortunate
I
Rajah Birbal's House
some unruly Afghan
against
expedition
123
tribes,
Akbar's grief was for a long time inconsolable.
The house which
is
named
after
him was
origi-
nally enclosed within the precincts of the imperial
zanana, and a covered
Bai's palace.
of
It is
way connected
it
with Jodh
one of the most richly decorated
the adjacent buildings, and next to Jodh Bai's
all
palace, the largest of the imperial residences.
in so
many
other instances, the
which assigns
be at
this palace to
fault.
Abul
Fazl,
vague
Rajah Birbal seems to
that
most careful and
Akbar ordered
the Rajah, and that when
precise biographer, records that
palace to be built for
was
finished in the
As
local tradition
a
it
twenty-seventh year of his reign
Emperor honoured it with his presence.
An inscription discovered by Edmund Smith upon
(1582) the
the capital of a pilaster in the west facade of the
building, states that
(a.d.
1572), ten
was erected
it
in
Samvat 1629
years before this date, and three
commencement of the city.
Though the Rajah was one of Akbar's most
trusted friends, his palace would hardly be placed
years after the
within the enclosure of the Emperor's
own zanana
it
nor is it likely that Akbar
would provide Birbal with a residence so incomparably more magnificent than those he gave to his
other two intimate friends, Abul Fazl and Faizi, by
and connected with
;
the side of the great mosque.
;
Handbook
124
to
Agra and the Taj
All the probabilities are that this
was one of the
imperial palaces occupied by Akbar's wives, which
were the
first
buildings erected at Fatehpur.
Fer-
daughter was
gusson's assumption that Birbal's
one of Akbar's wives would explain everything
but the fact that Abul Fazl makes no mention of
is very good evidence that Akbar
was not connected with Birbal by marriage.
such a daughter,
The house
is
a two-storied building, splendidly
ornamented with carving,
From
inside and out.
both
Hindus
were the architects but the decoration, from which
the construction,
it
would appear
that
;
it is
easy to discover the taste of the occupants,
nearly
Arabian or Persian
all
in style,
no suggestion that the palace was
rajah or his daughter.
scale,
it
palace in
for
1
a
much
Hindu
smaller
same type as Akbar's splendid
the Agra Fort, and was evidently intended
is
of the
one of the highest rank
Birbal's
officials
built for a
Though on
is
and conveys
house
is
now used
and "distinguished"
1
in the imperial zanana.
as a travellers' rest-house for high
which is not only very
visitors;
inconvenient for the undistinguished who may wish to see it, but
involves alterations which should never be permitted in buildings
Neither the
of such unique artistic and archaeological interest.
Daftar Khana nor this building should be devoted to such purposes,
merely to avoid the paltry expense of providing
bungalows.
proper
dak
The Hathi Pol and Adjoining Buildings
The Hathi Pol and Adjoining
Close under Birbal's house
down
leading
embankment
to the great lake
boundary of the
way called
which
of
city.
is
Buildings.
the main road
— now
formed
125
the
drained, the
north-west
passes through the gate-
It
the Hathi Pol, or Elephant Gate, from the
two great stone elephants, mutilated by Aurangzib,
On
standing on either side of the outer archway.
the
of the gateway are
left
called
two
buildings, the so-
Pigeon's House, probably intended
for a
magazine; and the Sangin Burj, a great bastion
supposed
to
Akbar and
be part of the fortifications begun by
left
unfinished,
owing
A
of Shaikh Salim Chishti.
little
to the objections
beyond
on
this,
the right, are the remains of the waterworks which
supplied the whole
Opposite to these,
city.
is
the
great traveller's rest-house, or Karwan-serai, in a
very ruined
The
state.
furthest of this
block of buildings
curious tower called the
is
a
Hiran Minar, or Deer
ornamented with stone
imitations of elephant tusks. According to tradition,
Tower, 72
feet
in height,
by Akbar in memory of a favourite
elephant, and used by him as a shooting tower; the
it
was
built
plain on the margin of the lake being the haunt of
antelope and other game.
Handbook
126
The splendid
and two
to
Agra and the Taj
stretch of water, six miles long
breadth, induced
in
many
of the princes
and nobles to build pavilions and garden houses
on
this side of the city.
This was the place for
great tournaments and festivities, and in the palmy
Mogul
Court must have made a brave show here. The
Hiran Minar was connected with the zanana by a
days of Fatehpur
all
the chivalry of the
covered way, so that the ladies might assist
at these
spectacles and enjoy the cool breezes from the lake.
The Jami
The
great
Masjid, or Cathedral Mosque.
mosque of Fatehpur
is
worthy of
founder's lofty ideals and nobility of soul.
of the most magnificent of
all
the
is
architectural splendour to
its
most impressive of
its
its
one
Akbar's buildings;
combine
make it one of
the historic associations connected with
with
It is
it
kind in the world.
said to be copied from one at
Mecca; but
It
this
cannot be altogether true, because, though the plan
and general
cedent,
many
design
follow
of the details
Muhammadan
pre-
show Akbar's Hindu
proclivities.
Within
the
great
mosque, Akbar
frequently
held religious discussions with the learned doctors
and here, also, after the chief Mullahs had
signed the famous document which declared Akbar
of Islam
;
—
The Jami Masjld, or Cathedral Mosque.
Head
to be
of the Church, the
127
Emperor mounted
the pulpit, and stood before the congregation as
He com-
the expounder of "the Divine Faith."
menced to read a Khutbah, or litany, which
Faizi, Abul Fazl's brother, had composed for the
occasion
The Lord, who gave to us dominion,
Wisdom, and heart and strength,
Who
guided us
in truth
and
right,
And cleansed our mind from all but right,
None can describe His power or state,
Allahu Akbar God is Great.'
—
But before he could
finish three lines of
it,
the
sense of the tremendous responsibility he had undertaken overpowered him.
He
trembling with emotion, and
descended the pulpit
left
the
Imam
of the
mosque to continue the service.
There are two entrances, approached by broad
flights of steps.
The one on the east side is the
Emperor's Gate, by which Akbar entered the
mosque from the palace, and the other, the majestic
Baland Darwaza, or High Gate, which towers
above
everything on the south
dwarfs the mosque
The
itself
with
its
side,
and
even
giant proportions.
however, was not a part of the
original design, but was added many years after the
latter
gate,
completion of the mosque, to celebrate Akbar's
victorious campaign in the Deccan.
The mosque
itself
was
built in
honour of the
Handbook
i28
Agra and the Taj
to
Saint of Fatehpur, Sheikh Salim Chishti,
whose
tomb, enclosed in a shrine of white marble, carved
with the delicacy of ivory-work, glitters
like silver
Barren women,
on the right of the quadrangle.
both Hindu and Muhammadan,
tie
bits of string
or shreds of cloth to the marble trellis-work as
tokens
present
is
that
an
if
blessed
offering
a plainer, but
grandson,
to
much
Nawab
with
the
a
shrine.
male descendants.
Islam
Khan,
many
A
they
will
Close by
larger mausoleum, for his
Governor of Bengal by Jahangir.
tains the remains of
son
who was made
This also con-
other of the Sheikh's
separate vault, called the
Zanana Rauza, for the women of his family is formed
by enclosing a portion of the adjoining cloisters.
The mosque proper contains three chapels,
crowned by domes.
The principal one, in the
centre, is screened by the facade of the entrance,
the doorway being recessed, in the usual style of
Saracenic buildings,
An
in
a great porch or semi-dome.
inscription over the
main archway gives the
date of the completion of the
The
mosque
as a.d. 1571.
chapels are connected with each other by noble
colonnades of a decidedly Hindu or Jain character.
The Saracenic arches combine most happily with
the Hindu construction, and the view down the
"long-drawn aisles" is singularly impressive.
Much of the charm of the interior is due to the
I'l
Nil
XIII.
-THE
IIA1.AND
DARWAZA, FATEHI'UR
SIKRI.
;
The Jami Masjid, or Cathedral Mosque
129
quiet reserve and dignity of the decoration,
which
is
nearly
may
that " this
(at
the style of Arabian mosques, and
in
all
account for the statement on the central arch,
mosque
is
a duplicate of the
Holy Place
"
Mecca).
At each end of the mosque there is a set of five
rooms for the mullahs who conducted the service
above them are galleries for the ladies of the
zanana.
Spacious cloisters surround three sides
of the quadrangle; these are divided into
numerous
maulvis and their pupils.
cells for the
The triumphal gateway, called the Baland
Darwaza (Plate XIII.), is really a building in itself.
It
must be seen from the outside of the quadrangle,
magnificent as it is there, it certainly does not
harmonize with the mosque viewed from the quadThis mighty portal, 176 feet in height from
rangle.
for,
the roadway,
the top of
is
it
a
landmark
From
for miles around.
the Taj, twenty-five miles away, and
the distant Fort of Bharatpur are visible.
There are three doors recessed in the immense
alcove on the front of the gate. One is the horsethe numerous votive
owners of sick horses, donkeys, and
which were nailed on in the hope of
shoe door, so called from
offerings of
bullocks,
obtaining the favour of the saint.
on the right of
carved over
it
in
The doorway
has the following inscription
Arabic :—
this
K
—
Handbook
*3°
to
Agra and the Taj
"His Majesty, King of
Court,
Shadow
kings,
Muhammad
of God, Jalal-ud-din
He
Akbar, Emperor.
conquered the kingdom of
the South and Dandes, which
Khandes,
Heaven of the
in the 46th
was formerly
Divine year
[i.e.
of his reign]
corresponding to the Hijira year, 1010
[a.d. 1602].
Having reached Fatehpur, he proceeded
Said Jesus, on
whom
bridge, pass over
it,
be peace
for
the world
but an hour, spend
is
to Agra.
The world
is
may hope
an hour,
it
a
He
but build no house there.
who hopeth
rest is
!
called
for eternity;
in devotion
;
the
worth nothing."
Over the
doorway is the following
He that standeth up in prayer, and his heart
is not in it, does not draw nigh to God, but remaineth
far from Him.
Thy best possession is what thou
givest in the name of God thy best traffic is selling
left
:
"
;
this
world
for the next."
Akbar himself died four years
sermon in stone was written.
The
after this great
Stone-Cutters' Mosque.
mosque is a graveyard
infant son of Sheikh
an
tomb
of
containing the
The legend concerning him is, that at
Salim.
the age of six months he addressed his father,
At
telling
the back of the great
him that
all
of Akbar's children must die in
The Stone- Cutters' Mosque
infancy,
unless
some
died for
child
131
He
them.
therefore had resolved to sacrifice himself for the
Emperor's sake, and immediately after
Jahangir was born nine months
lous speech he died.
afterwards.
miracu-
this
was
Sceptics have suggested that he
really a son of the Sheikh, substituted for a
still-
born child of Mariam Zamani.
Some
tomb there is a
honour of the saint by the
distance beyond
small mosque, built in
this
quarrymen of Fatehpur, before he had attracted
the notice of the great Emperor.
Stone-Cutters' Mosque, and
been erected on the
the
life
building
;
supposed
is
to
the
have
of the cave where he lived
site
of a hermit.
It is called
It
is
an unpretending
little
the brackets which support the cornice
are the only noticeable architectural features.
are direct imitations of
wooden
The}'
construction, and
are copied, with greater elaboration of carving,
in the
cell
marble shrine inside the Jami Masjid.
where the
saint
is
The
said to have lived is on the
right-hand corner of the mosque.
The
birthplace of Jahangir
is
pointed out in a
dilapidated palace not far from this mosque.
It is
occupied by a lineal descendant of Salim Chishti,
and
is
only rarely shown to visitors.
;
Handbook
132
The Houses
to
Agra and the Taj
of Abul Fazl and Faizi.
The houses where
these two famous brothers,
the friends of Akbar, lived, are close under the
north wall of the great mosque.
Their
father,
Sheikh Mubarak, was one of the most learned men
of the age, and the sons were as distinguished as
was the Persian Poet Laureate,
and tutor to the Royal Princes.
He was also
employed on many diplomatic missions.
Abul
Fazl was the author of the celebrated "Akbarhama," a history of the Mogul Emperors down to
the forty-seventh year of Akbar's reign. He was
the father.
Faizi
for a long time Akbar's
a
prominent
part
in
Prime Minister; he took
the
religious
discussions
inaugurated by the Emperor, and often discomfited
the orthodox followers of Islam with his arguments.
Sheikh Mubarak drew up the famous document
declaring
Akbar
to be the
Head
of the Church, and
it.
Abul Fazl declares
productive
document
"was
of excellent
that the
results
(1) The Court became the resort of the
learned men and sages of all creeds and nationalities
(2) Peace was given to all, and perfect tolerance
both his sons subscribed to
:
prevailed
;
(3)
the disinterested
motives of the
Emperor, whose labours were directed
after truth,
to learning
to a search
were rendered clear, and the pretenders
and scholarship were put to shame."
Bharatpur and Other Places
133
Notwithstanding his high character and generous
disposition,
Abul Fazl had many enemies
He was
last
at
Jahangir,
a
who
at Court.
assassinated at the instigation of
believed him to be responsible for
misunderstanding
between
himself
and
his
father.
There
is
nothing
architecturally
interesting
about the two houses, which have been for some
time used as a Zillah school.
in the
Vicinity of Agra.
There are some other places of considerable
it would
interest easily accessible from Agra, but
be beyond the scope of this book to describe them
in detail.
Bharatpur.
alluded
to,
is
— This
place,
which has been often
the capital of a native state of that
name, founded by the Jats under Suraj Mai about
1750.
The
probably
authorities
origin of the Jat race
they are of Scythian
is
obscure, but
descent.
Some
have put forward a theory that
the
gypsies of Europe and the Jats are of the same race.
K3
Handbook
134
They form
to
Agra and the Taj
a large proportion of the population of
North-Western
Their religion varies with
India.
who
the locality, but the Jats
occupied Agra under
Suraj Mai were Hindus.
In 1809, the fort at Bharatpur resisted for six
weeks a siege by General, afterwards Lord Lake,
who withdrew,
The Palace
after four desperate assaults.
of Suraj Mai
is
twenty-one
at Dig,
by road from Bharatpur.
It was
commenced about 1725, and is the finest and most
miles
original of the Indian palaces of that period.
Jat chief carried off to
it
The
a great deal of the loot
from the Agra Fort.
Govardhan.
two Ranis are
— The
tombs of Suraj Mai and his
at Govardhan, a very picturesque
place about eight miles from Dig. There are also
a number of very interesting tombs and buildings
of later date.
Fergusson 1 says of one of these,
which was in course of construction when he was
there in
1839,
architect
practised
from
all
that he acquired
is
at the present day.
the incomparably
practised
all
art as
learnt
living
over Rajputana
The preference we show
inferior art of the
we have imported
1
native
its
more knowledge of the secrets of
in the Middle Ages than he had
The same
the books he had read.
architectural art
styles
from
mongrel
into India,
is
for
eclectic
only a proof
" History of Indian and Eastern Architecture."
there
that
is
something wanting
in
135
the superior
and culture which we believe ourselves
civilization
to possess.
There
is
also at
Govardhan
a very fine
Hindu
temple, dating from the time of Akbar.
A
great
fair is
held here every year about the
end of October, or beginning of November, on the
occasion of the Hindu Diwali, or Feast of Lamps,
one of the most beautiful and impressive of
Hindu festivals.
Muttra, the Mathora of
all
the
the Greeks, about four-
teen miles from Govardhan, and within easy reach
of
Agra by
rail,
is
one of the most sacred places
of the Hindus, from being the reputed birthplace of
Krishna.
It
is
a great centre for the worship of
Vishnu.
Brindaban, or Bindraban, which
distance further by
rail,
is
a very short
possesses an old Hindu
temple, dedicated to Govind
Deva, or Vishnu, of
same period as the other at Govardhan, and
by the same person, Rajah Man Singh of
Amber, an ancestor of the present Maharajah of
Fergusson describes it as one of the most
Jaipur.
the
built
interesting and elegant temples in India.
There
is
also a great
Vishnu temple of the
last
century, in the Dravidian style of Southern India,
by a Hindu millionaire merchant. Krishna's
childhood and early youth were passed in the vicinity
built
136
Handbook
to
Agra and the Taj
of Brindaban, and on that account
it is
held especially
sacred by the followers of the Vaishnavite sect of
Hinduism,
who
flock there in
thousands on the
anniversary of Krishna's birth, in the month of
Bhadon (August— September).
5
;;
INDEX
ABUL
Fazl, murder of,
Babar,
26,
history written by, 132
;
133
house of,
13
132
Agra, early history of, 3 ; Babar's
connection with, 13 ; Akbar's connection with, 25
;
monuments of
Shah Jahan's reign at, 33 ; history
under later Mogul Emperors, 37 ;
in the Mutiny, 39 ; Agra Fort,
40 ; Delhi Gate, 40 ; Dersane
Darwaza, 45
Mina
inner
;
Diwan-i-am, 46
Bazar,
51
;
Chitore
;
Hindu temple, 53
52
supposed
Machhi Bhawan, 53
prison of Shah Jahan, 54 Xajina
Gates,
;
4
;
memoirs,
7,
;
10
;
connection with Agra,
gardens of, 14, 92 ; road to
1 1 ;
Kabul begun by, 1
Bairam Khan, 19, 20
Baland Darwaza, Fatehpur
Jahangir's con-
;
nection with, 28
life of,
death,
Sikri,
127, 129
Bemier, French
traveller, 33,
47
Bharatpur, 133
Bindraban, 135
Birbal, Rajah, house of, 122
Boland Khan, tower of, 29
Bordeaux, Austin de, 75
Brindaban, 135
;
;
Diwan-i-Khas, 55
Jahangir's throne, 56 ; the Baths,
Masjid,
57
54
;
;
Samman
;
Burj,
57
;
Khas
Mahal, 59 ; Anguri Bagh, 61
Shish Mahal, 62; "Somnath"
Gates, 62 ; Jahangiri Mahal, 63
;
;
Salimgarh, 67
Akbar, founded modern Agra, 3
life
of,
forms, 21
18
;
;
administrative
religious
belief,
of,
97
;
Charnock, Job, 37
Chinghiz Khan, 4
Chini-ka-Rauza, 61
Chishti, Sheikh Salim,
of,
107
;
tomb
128
Chitore Gates, 52
;
connection with Agra, 25 ; death,
25 ; apartments in Agra Fort, 65 ;
tomb
Catholic, Agra,
103
;
re-
22
Cemetery, Roman
interest in painting
taken by, 112
Akbarabad, 3
Alawal Bilawal, mosque of, 18, 102
Ali Verdi Khan, baths of, 29, 103
Anguri Bagh, 59, 61
Dansa
Jat, house of,
43
Dara Shikoh, 30, 33
Darshan Darwaza, 42, 45
Dig, palace
of,
134
Din-i-ilahi, 23, 24, 127
Diwali, feast
of,
135
Diwan-i-am, Agra, 46
Fatehpur Sikri, 117
„
Diwan-i-Khas, Agra, 55
Fatehpur Sikri, 114
„
1
;
1
Index
138
Elephant
Ibadat Khana,
Gate, Agra, 40, 41
Fatehpur
,,
,,
Sikri,
Ibrahim Lodi,
23, 115 n.
4, 11
Itmad-ud-daulah,
Elephant
Agra, 40, 41
Emperor's Gate, Fatehpur Sikri, 127
statues,
Fatehpur
109
battle
Sikri,
107
of,
1
10
Turkish
Sultana's
Hakim's
Baths,
1 1 1 ;
house,
1
14
;
the
;
Kwabgah,
1
;
Gate,
109
Daftar Khana,
Palace,
10
;
Khana,
;
Chamber,
or Record
II
of,
Agra
;
Naubat
;
The Mint, 109
board,
85
of,
87
;
27, 85 ; history
marble tracery in tomb
Jahanara,
Faizi, 96
city
of,
113;
Jahangir,
connection
Kali,
Kothi, 118; Rajah Birbal's house,
102
Fatehpur
,,
,,
Jats, 38, 43,
Sikri,
126
133
Bai, 67, 120, 121 ».
or
Kalan
Masjid,
Agra,
122 ; Hathi Pol, 125 ; Pigeon's
House, 125 ; Sangin Burj, 125 ;
Karwan-serai, 125 ; Hiran Minar,
125; Jami Masjid, 126; Baland
Darwaza, 129; Stone - Cutters'
Mosque, 130 ; houses of Abul
Kanauj, 74 ; battle of, 17, 18
Kanch Mahal, IOO
Kandahari Bagh, Agra, 97
Karwan-serai, Fatehpur Sikri, 125
Kashmiri Bazar, Agra, 29
Khas Mahal, Agra, 59
Fazl and Faizi, 132
Khurram, Prince, 28
Fazl, Abul, 25, 132, 133
Koh-i-nur, 13
Feroz Khan, tomb
Kokand, 5
of,
102
Firokhshiyar, 37
GOVARDHAN,
1
Ladli Begam, 96
34
Machhi Bhawan,
Guru-ka-Tal, 97
Hathi
„
I
;
Jamaat Khana, 83
Jami Masjid, at Agra, 68
Delhi, 30
„
„
Jodh
;
25
cistern, or kauz,
of, Si
pachisi
;
;
Jahangiri Mahal, Agra, 63
116; hospital, 117; Diwan-i-am,
117; Panch Mahal, 1 18 Miriam's
14
of,
with Agra, 28
Diwan-i-Khas, 1 14 ;
Ankh-Michauli, 116 ; Yogi's Seat,
1
32, 58
life
Mina
Pol, Agra, 40, 41
,,
Fatehpur
Sikri, 125
Iauz, or cistern, of Jahangir, 5
Hawa
Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri, 122
Messing, John, 38, 103
Htmu, Hindu general, 20
Hiran Min&r, Fatehpur Sikri, 125
Hospital, Fatehpur Sikri, 117
Humayun, It, 12, 83;
tomb at Delhi, 17
life of,
16;
53
Bazar, inner, Agra, 5
46
„ outer,
,,
„
Motamid Khan, mosque of, 29
Mubarak, Sheikh, 96, 132
Mumtaz Mahal, 29, 37, 71
Murad, Prince, 30
Muti Masjid, Agra, 30, 43
Muttra, 135
Nadir Shah, 38
Nizamudin, tomb
of,
32
et seq.
Index
Nur Mahal,
or
Xur Jahan,
26, 27,
of,
102
Palace at Agra, 30
„
Sikri,
of, 4, 11,
Peacock throne, 38, 75
Pietra dura y 75, 89
Pigeon's House, Fatehpur
1
Sikri, 130
18
Suraj-Bhan-ka Bagh, 101
20
Taj Mahal,
72
the,
Sikri, 125
;
15, 29, 71
Bagh,
14,
of
68
;
;
82
;
Terry, Edward, 16
17,
Underground
chambers,
Agra
Fort, 60
5, 6,
Yerroneo, Geronimo, 75
Wazir Khan's mosque,
Lahore, 88
;
29 monuments of reign at
Agra, 33 death and funeral, 58
Sher Afsan, 25
Shere Shah, 17, 18; tomb at Sas;
76
marble
tombs in
;
If*.
74
Samman Burj, Agra, 27, 57
Sanjin Burj, Fatehpur Sikri, 125
Shahdara, 28
Shah Jahan, hand and seal of, 15
life of,
79
Tamerlane, or Timur, 4
Tavernier, 31, 74 n
Salimgarh, 67
Salim Shah, or Sultan Islam,
40,68
Samarkand,
building of
Jamaat Khana, 83 ;
view from the river, 84 ; museum,
the, 81,
Roe, Sir Thomas, 16, 26
Rushanara, Princess, 33. 35, 36
25,
the,
screen in the, 74, 81
92
Reinhardt, Walter, 38, 103
Salim, Prince,
;
intention of the,
description
Ram
Fatehpur
Mosque,
Stone-Cutters'
Delhi, 30
Panch Mahal, Fatehpur
Panipat, battles
Shish Mahal, Agra Fort, 62
Shuja, Prince, 30
Sikandar Lodi, 4, 97
Sikandra, burial-place of Akbar, 4,
25, 26, 96 ; road to, 15
" Somnath " Gates, Agra, 62
28, 37, 57, 85, 94
Nurmahal Sarai, 16
Pahalwari, tomb
139
Yogi's Seat, Fatehpur
Sikri,
116
;
seram, 18
Zamam, Mariam,
131
;
tomb
4, 107, 118, 120,
of, 101
Zohra, or Zuhara Bagh, 14, 94.
THE END
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a handbook to Agra and the
Taj
3fe

A handbook to Agra and the Taj, Sikandra, Fatehpur

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