Bunka with Flair - United Bunka Association
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Bunka with Flair - United Bunka Association
%XQND:LWK )ODLU 7KH +DQGERRN RI%XQND $ &203/(7((1&<&/23(',$ 2) %81.$ 6+,6+8 -$3$1(6(381&+(0%52,'(5< 7(&+1,48(6 %(*,11(572$'9$1&(' /(9(/ 2) 67,7&+(5< %XQND:LWK)ODLU -$3$1(6(381&+(0%52,'(5< ZZZEXQNDZLWKIODLUFRP ID[ HPDLOEXQND#EXQNDZLWKIODLUFRP 0DGHLQ&DQDGD&RS\ULJKW The Handbook of Bunka The Handbook of Bunka Section 1 Getting Started Section 1 Getting Started Section 11 Glossary of Stitches and Techniques Section 11 Glossary of Stitches and Techniques Section 111 Appendices Section 111 Appendices The Handbook of Bunka The Handbook of Bunka Section 1 Getting Started Section 1 Getting Started Section 11 Glossary of Stitches and Techniques Section 11 Glossary of Stitches and Techniques Section 111 Appendices Section 111 Appendices Note From The Authors Note From The Authors This is the second edition of The Handbook of Bunka revised by Bonnie Ralph and Jan Baba who have been active instructors and stitchers for many years. Bonnie and Jan learned the beautiful art of Bunka Shishu embroidery from the courses and samplers developed by Karen Schilthuis, Canada's First Lady of Bunka. In 1986, Karen wrote and published the original Handbook of Bunka that has received wide circulation over the past 6 years as the first official Bunka Shishu reference book ever published in North America. This is the second edition of The Handbook of Bunka revised by Bonnie Ralph and Jan Baba who have been active instructors and stitchers for many years. Bonnie and Jan learned the beautiful art of Bunka Shishu embroidery from the courses and samplers developed by Karen Schilthuis, Canada's First Lady of Bunka. In 1986, Karen wrote and published the original Handbook of Bunka that has received wide circulation over the past 6 years as the first official Bunka Shishu reference book ever published in North America. This version is a compilation of the most up-todate and most popular stitching techniques being used today. We hope teachers and students alike will continue to use the Handbook as a valuable reference tool and teaching aid. In no way should this manual replace the knowledge and stitching expertise that can be learned from an experienced Bunka With Flair Instructor. This version is a compilation of the most up-todate and most popular stitching techniques being used today. We hope teachers and students alike will continue to use the Handbook as a valuable reference tool and teaching aid. In no way should this manual replace the knowledge and stitching expertise that can be learned from an experienced Bunka With Flair Instructor. The authors request the reader to keep in mind that the purpose of the Handbook is as a reference tool which, while documenting the basic method will, hopefully, expand the stitchers knowledge and understanding of Bunka Shishu embroidery and encourage development of personal style and methodology. The authors request the reader to keep in mind that the purpose of the Handbook is as a reference tool which, while documenting the basic method will, hopefully, expand the stitchers knowledge and understanding of Bunka Shishu embroidery and encourage development of personal style and methodology. It is our hope that we have made Bunka Shisha an art for all, near and far, to experience, to accomplish and mostly to enjoy. It is our hope that we have made Bunka Shisha an art for all, near and far, to experience, to accomplish and mostly to enjoy. Note From The Authors Note From The Authors This is the second edition of The Handbook of Bunka revised by Bonnie Ralph and Jan Baba who have been active instructors and stitchers for many years. Bonnie and Jan learned the beautiful art of Bunka Shishu embroidery from the courses and samplers developed by Karen Schilthuis, Canada's First Lady of Bunka. In 1986, Karen wrote and published the original Handbook of Bunka that has received wide circulation over the past 6 years as the first official Bunka Shishu reference book ever published in North America. This is the second edition of The Handbook of Bunka revised by Bonnie Ralph and Jan Baba who have been active instructors and stitchers for many years. Bonnie and Jan learned the beautiful art of Bunka Shishu embroidery from the courses and samplers developed by Karen Schilthuis, Canada's First Lady of Bunka. In 1986, Karen wrote and published the original Handbook of Bunka that has received wide circulation over the past 6 years as the first official Bunka Shishu reference book ever published in North America. This version is a compilation of the most up-todate and most popular stitching techniques being used today. We hope teachers and students alike will continue to use the Handbook as a valuable reference tool and teaching aid. In no way should this manual replace the knowledge and stitching expertise that can be learned from an experienced Bunka With Flair Instructor. This version is a compilation of the most up-todate and most popular stitching techniques being used today. We hope teachers and students alike will continue to use the Handbook as a valuable reference tool and teaching aid. In no way should this manual replace the knowledge and stitching expertise that can be learned from an experienced Bunka With Flair Instructor. The authors request the reader to keep in mind that the purpose of the Handbook is as a reference tool which, while documenting the basic method will, hopefully, expand the stitchers knowledge and understanding of Bunka Shishu embroidery and encourage development of personal style and methodology. The authors request the reader to keep in mind that the purpose of the Handbook is as a reference tool which, while documenting the basic method will, hopefully, expand the stitchers knowledge and understanding of Bunka Shishu embroidery and encourage development of personal style and methodology. It is our hope that we have made Bunka Shisha an art for all, near and far, to experience, to accomplish and mostly to enjoy. It is our hope that we have made Bunka Shisha an art for all, near and far, to experience, to accomplish and mostly to enjoy. To The Beginner Stitcher To The Beginner Stitcher The Handbook of Bunka contains general, basic information that is used for every Bunka Shishu picture. It also contains Advanced Level techniques that should not be attempted until you are comfortable with the basics. The Handbook of Bunka contains general, basic information that is used for every Bunka Shishu picture. It also contains Advanced Level techniques that should not be attempted until you are comfortable with the basics. It is strongly recommended that this manual be used as a learning tool in combination with Bunka With Flair's Instructional Program, Levels 1 to 3. If you do not have access to a qualified B.W.F. Instructor but would like to try some stitching on your own, we suggest: It is strongly recommended that this manual be used as a learning tool in combination with Bunka With Flair's Instructional Program, Levels 1 to 3. If you do not have access to a qualified B.W.F. Instructor but would like to try some stitching on your own, we suggest: 1. Carefully reading the first section "Getting Started". 1. Carefully reading the first section "Getting Started". 2. The second section, "Glossary of Stitches & Techniques" describes basic to advanced techniques in alphabetical order. From this section, refer to: 2. The second section, "Glossary of Stitches & Techniques" describes basic to advanced techniques in alphabetical order. From this section, refer to: Flat stitch, page 84 Line padding, page 123 Wedge Stitch, page 180 Blending, page 51 Flat stitch, page 84 Line padding, page 123 Wedge Stitch, page 180 Blending, page 51 Learning these techniques will establish the basic knowledge necessary to start your first picture. It will be very difficult for you to absorb the contents of the entire book by simply reading, so concentrate and practice the basics first. Learning these techniques will establish the basic knowledge necessary to start your first picture. It will be very difficult for you to absorb the contents of the entire book by simply reading, so concentrate and practice the basics first. To The Beginner Stitcher To The Beginner Stitcher The Handbook of Bunka contains general, basic information that is used for every Bunka Shishu picture. It also contains Advanced Level techniques that should not be attempted until you are comfortable with the basics. The Handbook of Bunka contains general, basic information that is used for every Bunka Shishu picture. It also contains Advanced Level techniques that should not be attempted until you are comfortable with the basics. It is strongly recommended that this manual be used as a learning tool in combination with Bunka With Flair's Instructional Program, Levels 1 to 3. If you do not have access to a qualified B.W.F. Instructor but would like to try some stitching on your own, we suggest: It is strongly recommended that this manual be used as a learning tool in combination with Bunka With Flair's Instructional Program, Levels 1 to 3. If you do not have access to a qualified B.W.F. Instructor but would like to try some stitching on your own, we suggest: 1. Carefully reading the first section "Getting Started". 1. Carefully reading the first section "Getting Started". 2. The second section, "Glossary of Stitches & Techniques" describes basic to advanced techniques in alphabetical order. From this section, refer to: 2. The second section, "Glossary of Stitches & Techniques" describes basic to advanced techniques in alphabetical order. From this section, refer to: Flat stitch, page 84 Line padding, page 123 Wedge Stitch, page 180 Blending, page 51 Flat stitch, page 84 Line padding, page 123 Wedge Stitch, page 180 Blending, page 51 Learning these techniques will establish the basic knowledge necessary to start your first picture. It will be very difficult for you to absorb the contents of the entire book by simply reading, so concentrate and practice the basics first. Learning these techniques will establish the basic knowledge necessary to start your first picture. It will be very difficult for you to absorb the contents of the entire book by simply reading, so concentrate and practice the basics first. "BUNKA SHISHU" "BUNKA SHISHU" Also known as: Also known as: Bunka Embroidery Japanese Punch Needle Embroidery Thread art Thread painting Bunka Embroidery Japanese Punch Needle Embroidery Thread art Thread painting Originating in Japan, Bunka Shishu is unique from other types of needlework since it requires Originating in Japan, Bunka Shishu is unique from other types of needlework since it requires a) Punch Needle designed to operate exclusively with ... a) Punch Needle designed to operate exclusively with ... b) Special 4-ply rayon thread manufactured in Japan ... b) Special 4-ply rayon thread manufactured in Japan ... to embroider the design onto a taut, tight weave canvas. to embroider the design onto a taut, tight weave canvas. This Handbook of Bunks Shishu Embroidery is an easy to use reference guide for stitchers at all levels. The techniques described range from the preliminary preparatory steps to advanced skills. This Handbook of Bunks Shishu Embroidery is an easy to use reference guide for stitchers at all levels. The techniques described range from the preliminary preparatory steps to advanced skills. We hope this book will assist you in the hours of enjoyment you will experience in creating beautiful Bunka pictures. We hope this book will assist you in the hours of enjoyment you will experience in creating beautiful Bunka pictures. 5 "BUNKA SHISHU" 5 "BUNKA SHISHU" Also known as: Also known as: Bunka Embroidery Japanese Punch Needle Embroidery Thread art Thread painting Bunka Embroidery Japanese Punch Needle Embroidery Thread art Thread painting Originating in Japan, Bunka Shishu is unique from other types of needlework since it requires Originating in Japan, Bunka Shishu is unique from other types of needlework since it requires a) Punch Needle designed to operate exclusively with ... a) Punch Needle designed to operate exclusively with ... b) Special 4-ply rayon thread manufactured in Japan ... b) Special 4-ply rayon thread manufactured in Japan ... to embroider the design onto a taut, tight weave canvas. to embroider the design onto a taut, tight weave canvas. This Handbook of Bunks Shishu Embroidery is an easy to use reference guide for stitchers at all levels. The techniques described range from the preliminary preparatory steps to advanced skills. This Handbook of Bunks Shishu Embroidery is an easy to use reference guide for stitchers at all levels. The techniques described range from the preliminary preparatory steps to advanced skills. We hope this book will assist you in the hours of enjoyment you will experience in creating beautiful Bunka pictures. We hope this book will assist you in the hours of enjoyment you will experience in creating beautiful Bunka pictures. 5 5 Kits are available from 3 sources -each has its own full colour catalogue. Kits are available from 3 sources -each has its own full colour catalogue. 1. Canadian - numbered kits designed in Canada, 1. Canadian - numbered kits designed in Canada, 2. Tokyo - numbered kits designed in Japan. The threads in Canadian and Tokyo pictures are numbered like a paint-by-number where the thread number corresponds to the numbers printed on the canvas. 2. Tokyo - numbered kits designed in Japan. The threads in Canadian and Tokyo pictures are numbered like a paint-by-number where the thread number corresponds to the numbers printed on the canvas. 3. Matsuhato - numbered and unnumbered kits designed in Japan. Usually there are no numbers on the canvas or threads. The stitcher decides which colour to use by analyzing the coIoured picture insert and making up a 'thread chart'. 3. Matsuhato - numbered and unnumbered kits designed in Japan. Usually there are no numbers on the canvas or threads. The stitcher decides which colour to use by analyzing the coIoured picture insert and making up a 'thread chart'. A Bunks Shishu kit consists of: A Bunks Shishu kit consists of: a) Embroidery threads b) screen-printed canvas c) coloured picture guide or insert -one side is a photograph of what the completed picture should look like; the other is a copy of the numbered, screen-printed canvas a) Embroidery threads b) screen-printed canvas c) coloured picture guide or insert -one side is a photograph of what the completed picture should look like; the other is a copy of the numbered, screen-printed canvas d) Most Canadian kits also include stitch instructions. d) Most Canadian kits also include stitch instructions. Tokyo threads that are also used in Canadian kits are numbered with a paper tag. These numbers will never change, i.e. #167 will always be brown. As a backup in case of thread shortage, leftover threads from one kit can be used on other pictures; however, watch for differences in colour shade that may vary between dye lots. Tokyo threads that are also used in Canadian kits are numbered with a paper tag. These numbers will never change, i.e. #167 will always be brown. As a backup in case of thread shortage, leftover threads from one kit can be used on other pictures; however, watch for differences in colour shade that may vary between dye lots. Bunka thread is not cut into pieces as with standard embroidery. It is used in a continuous strand from the skein. Bunka thread is not cut into pieces as with standard embroidery. It is used in a continuous strand from the skein. Kits are available from 3 sources -each has its own full colour catalogue. Kits are available from 3 sources -each has its own full colour catalogue. 1. Canadian - numbered kits designed in Canada, 1. Canadian - numbered kits designed in Canada, 2. Tokyo - numbered kits designed in Japan. The threads in Canadian and Tokyo pictures are numbered like a paint-by-number where the thread number corresponds to the numbers printed on the canvas. 2. Tokyo - numbered kits designed in Japan. The threads in Canadian and Tokyo pictures are numbered like a paint-by-number where the thread number corresponds to the numbers printed on the canvas. 3. Matsuhato - numbered and unnumbered kits designed in Japan. Usually there are no numbers on the canvas or threads. The stitcher decides which colour to use by analyzing the coIoured picture insert and making up a 'thread chart'. 3. Matsuhato - numbered and unnumbered kits designed in Japan. Usually there are no numbers on the canvas or threads. The stitcher decides which colour to use by analyzing the coIoured picture insert and making up a 'thread chart'. A Bunks Shishu kit consists of: A Bunks Shishu kit consists of: a) Embroidery threads b) screen-printed canvas c) coloured picture guide or insert -one side is a photograph of what the completed picture should look like; the other is a copy of the numbered, screen-printed canvas a) Embroidery threads b) screen-printed canvas c) coloured picture guide or insert -one side is a photograph of what the completed picture should look like; the other is a copy of the numbered, screen-printed canvas d) Most Canadian kits also include stitch instructions. d) Most Canadian kits also include stitch instructions. Tokyo threads that are also used in Canadian kits are numbered with a paper tag. These numbers will never change, i.e. #167 will always be brown. As a backup in case of thread shortage, leftover threads from one kit can be used on other pictures; however, watch for differences in colour shade that may vary between dye lots. Tokyo threads that are also used in Canadian kits are numbered with a paper tag. These numbers will never change, i.e. #167 will always be brown. As a backup in case of thread shortage, leftover threads from one kit can be used on other pictures; however, watch for differences in colour shade that may vary between dye lots. Bunka thread is not cut into pieces as with standard embroidery. It is used in a continuous strand from the skein. Bunka thread is not cut into pieces as with standard embroidery. It is used in a continuous strand from the skein. Table of Contents Table of Contents GETTING STARTED .................................... 11 GETTING STARTED .................................... 11 Preparing the Kit .............................................. 11 Preparing the Kit .............................................. 11 How To Wind The Thread ................................. 11 How To Wind The Thread ................................. 11 About The Thread 2/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull Thread 1/4 Pull Thread About The Thread 2/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull Thread 1/4 Pull Thread ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ 14 15 16 17 ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ 14 15 16 17 The Needle ....................................................... 18 How To Thread The Needle .......................... 19 The Needle ....................................................... 18 How To Thread The Needle .......................... 19 How To Stretch and Tack The Canvas ............ 20 How To Stretch and Tack The Canvas ............ 20 Workframes .................................................. 20 Workframes .................................................. 20 Method 1 - Without Plumbline .................... 21 Method 1 - Without Plumbline .................... 21 Method 1 - With Plumbline ........................... 21 Method 1 - With Plumbline ........................... 21 PICTURE STYLES ...................................... 24 PICTURE STYLES ...................................... 24 Flat Stitch Pictures Dimension .......................................... 25 ................................................... 25 Flat Stitch Pictures Dimension .......................................... 25 ................................................... 25 Stitch Direction ............................................. 26 Stitch Direction ............................................. 26 How To Start And End The Thread ............... 26 How To Start And End The Thread ............... 26 Basic Needle Movement .............................. 28 Basic Needle Movement .............................. 28 Trouble Shooting .......................................... 30 Trouble Shooting .......................................... 30 Fluffy Pictures .................................................. 31 Fluffy Pictures .................................................. 31 Table of Contents Table of Contents GETTING STARTED .................................... 11 GETTING STARTED .................................... 11 Preparing the Kit .............................................. 11 Preparing the Kit .............................................. 11 How To Wind The Thread ................................. 11 How To Wind The Thread ................................. 11 About The Thread 2/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull Thread 1/4 Pull Thread About The Thread 2/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull Thread 1/4 Pull Thread ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ 14 15 16 17 ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ ............................................ 14 15 16 17 The Needle ....................................................... 18 How To Thread The Needle .......................... 19 The Needle ....................................................... 18 How To Thread The Needle .......................... 19 How To Stretch and Tack The Canvas ............ 20 How To Stretch and Tack The Canvas ............ 20 Workframes .................................................. 20 Workframes .................................................. 20 Method 1 - Without Plumbline .................... 21 Method 1 - Without Plumbline .................... 21 Method 1 - With Plumbline ........................... 21 Method 1 - With Plumbline ........................... 21 PICTURE STYLES ...................................... 24 PICTURE STYLES ...................................... 24 Flat Stitch Pictures Dimension .......................................... 25 ................................................... 25 Flat Stitch Pictures Dimension .......................................... 25 ................................................... 25 Stitch Direction ............................................. 26 Stitch Direction ............................................. 26 How To Start And End The Thread ............... 26 How To Start And End The Thread ............... 26 Basic Needle Movement .............................. 28 Basic Needle Movement .............................. 28 Trouble Shooting .......................................... 30 Trouble Shooting .......................................... 30 Fluffy Pictures .................................................. 31 Fluffy Pictures .................................................. 31 SECTION 11 SECTION 11 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES ............ 34 GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES ............ 34 SECTION 111 SECTION 111 APPENDICES APPENDICES APPENDIX 1 - FRAMING .......................... 186 APPENDIX 11 - COLOUR CHART .............. 187 APPENDIX 1 - FRAMING .......................... 186 APPENDIX 11 - COLOUR CHART .............. 187 SECTION 11 SECTION 11 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES ............ 34 GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES ............ 34 SECTION 111 SECTION 111 APPENDICES APPENDICES APPENDIX 1 - FRAMING .......................... 186 APPENDIX 11 - COLOUR CHART .............. 187 APPENDIX 1 - FRAMING .......................... 186 APPENDIX 11 - COLOUR CHART .............. 187 Section 1 Section 1 Getting Started Getting Started Section 1 Section 1 Getting Started Getting Started GETTING STARTED GETTING STARTED Preparing the Kit Preparing the Kit Step 1 - All the threads must be wound onto individual 'winding' cards. Step 1 - All the threads must be wound onto individual 'winding' cards. Step 2 - The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. Step 2 - The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. STEP 1 STEP 1 HOW TO WIND THE THREAD HOW TO WIND THE THREAD Supplies Supplies 1. Winding Cards 2. Bunks clippers or scissors 3. Container to hold wound threads (commercial floss organizers, reuse a chocolate box, plastic food container). 1. Winding Cards 2. Bunks clippers or scissors 3. Container to hold wound threads (commercial floss organizers, reuse a chocolate box, plastic food container). Each skein of thread is wound onto separate cards - one skein per card. The winding cards can be purchased (50 to a bundle) or you can cut out your own from medium-weight cardboard (gift box, bristol board). Each skein of thread is wound onto separate cards - one skein per card. The winding cards can be purchased (50 to a bundle) or you can cut out your own from medium-weight cardboard (gift box, bristol board). Shown in Fig. 1 are 2 examples of winding cards. Shown in Fig. 1 are 2 examples of winding cards. 11 11 GETTING STARTED GETTING STARTED Preparing the Kit Preparing the Kit Step 1 - All the threads must be wound onto individual 'winding' cards. Step 1 - All the threads must be wound onto individual 'winding' cards. Step 2 - The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. Step 2 - The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. STEP 1 STEP 1 HOW TO WIND THE THREAD HOW TO WIND THE THREAD Supplies Supplies 1. Winding Cards 2. Bunks clippers or scissors 3. Container to hold wound threads (commercial floss organizers, reuse a chocolate box, plastic food container). 1. Winding Cards 2. Bunks clippers or scissors 3. Container to hold wound threads (commercial floss organizers, reuse a chocolate box, plastic food container). Each skein of thread is wound onto separate cards - one skein per card. The winding cards can be purchased (50 to a bundle) or you can cut out your own from medium-weight cardboard (gift box, bristol board). Each skein of thread is wound onto separate cards - one skein per card. The winding cards can be purchased (50 to a bundle) or you can cut out your own from medium-weight cardboard (gift box, bristol board). Shown in Fig. 1 are 2 examples of winding cards. Shown in Fig. 1 are 2 examples of winding cards. 11 11 Fig. 1 -actual size Fig. 1 -actual size Each skein of thread is fastened with a white twist tie and the paper number tag. The ties are bundled together with a single tie. Each skein of thread is fastened with a white twist tie and the paper number tag. The ties are bundled together with a single tie. 1) Hold up the bundle of threads by the twist ties. 1) Hold up the bundle of threads by the twist ties. 2) Pull down on one of the paper tag numbers. A single skein will detach itself from the main bundle. 2) Pull down on one of the paper tag numbers. A single skein will detach itself from the main bundle. 3) Write the thread number onto one end of the winding card. Fig. 2 12 3) Write the thread number onto one end of the winding card. Fig. 2 12 Fig. 1 -actual size Fig. 1 -actual size Each skein of thread is fastened with a white twist tie and the paper number tag. The ties are bundled together with a single tie. Each skein of thread is fastened with a white twist tie and the paper number tag. The ties are bundled together with a single tie. 1) Hold up the bundle of threads by the twist ties. 1) Hold up the bundle of threads by the twist ties. 2) Pull down on one of the paper tag numbers. A single skein will detach itself from the main bundle. 2) Pull down on one of the paper tag numbers. A single skein will detach itself from the main bundle. 3) Write the thread number onto one end of the winding card. 12 Fig. 2 3) Write the thread number onto one end of the winding card. 12 Fig. 2 4) Put your left hand through the loop of thread, tear off the number tag and twist off the white tie. 5) The circle of thread on your left hand is double-looped and must be shifted to a single loop. The ends of each skein have been tied together in a knot to secure the loop. 6) Grab the knot with the fingers of your right hand; Drop the circle of thread off the left hand. There should now be one large loop in the right hand. 7) Put this loop over your left hand and untie the knot at the top. Let the two loose ends drop free on either side of the circle of thread. 8) Pick up one of the ends and proceed to unwind the thread. 4) Put your left hand through the loop of thread, tear off the number tag and twist off the white tie. unwind white twist tie Fig. 3 knot Fig. 4 5) The circle of thread on your left hand is double-looped and must be shifted to a single loop. The ends of each skein have been tied together in a knot to secure the loop. 6) Grab the knot with the fingers of your right hand; Drop the circle of thread off the left hand. There should now be one large loop in the right hand. knot 7) Put this loop over your left hand and untie the knot at the top. Let the two loose ends drop free on either side of the circle of thread. Fig. 5 UNWIND 8) Pick up one of the ends and proceed to unwind the thread. Fig. 6 unwind white twist tie Fig. 3 knot Fig. 4 knot Fig. 5 UNWIND Fig. 6 13 4) Put your left hand through the loop of thread, tear off the number tag and twist off the white tie. 5) The circle of thread on your left hand is double-looped and must be shifted to a single loop. The ends of each skein have been tied together in a knot to secure the loop. 6) Grab the knot with the fingers of your right hand; Drop the circle of thread off the left hand. There should now be one large loop in the right hand. 7) Put this loop over your left hand and untie the knot at the top. Let the two loose ends drop free on either side of the circle of thread. 8) Pick up one of the ends and proceed to unwind the thread. 13 4) Put your left hand through the loop of thread, tear off the number tag and twist off the white tie. unwind white twist tie Fig. 3 knot Fig. 4 5) The circle of thread on your left hand is double-looped and must be shifted to a single loop. The ends of each skein have been tied together in a knot to secure the loop. 6) Grab the knot with the fingers of your right hand; Drop the circle of thread off the left hand. There should now be one large loop in the right hand. knot 7) Put this loop over your left hand and untie the knot at the top. Let the two loose ends drop free on either side of the circle of thread. Fig. 5 UNWIND Fig. 6 8) Pick up one of the ends and proceed to unwind the thread. unwind white twist tie Fig. 3 knot Fig. 4 knot Fig. 5 UNWIND Fig. 6 13 13 9) Slip one end of the thread through one of the slits on the winding card. Loosely wind the thread onto the card and tuck in the end. Do not wind too tight since it may cause problems with the thread. See Figure 1. 9) Slip one end of the thread through one of the slits on the winding card. Loosely wind the thread onto the card and tuck in the end. Do not wind too tight since it may cause problems with the thread. See Figure 1. 10) Number and wind all the threads and place in a container so that the thread numbers are clearly visible. 10) Number and wind all the threads and place in a container so that the thread numbers are clearly visible. ABOUT THE THREAD ABOUT THE THREAD ! ! ! ! Also referred to as 'Rayon lily yarn', bunka thread is manufactured in Japan. Each skein of this polyester/rayon thread is about 6 meters long. Matsuhato skeins are shorter -about 5 meters in length. Since it is not coIour fast it cannot be used on articles of clothing or household items such as cushions, tea towels, etc. but is used exclusively for the creation of art; pictures, clocks, etc. The finished work is always framed behind glass to protect the stitching from the elements (moisture, dust, pets). The rayon fibers used in bunka thread are woven Into a strand which can then be unraveled into: - a 1-ply thickness - 1/4 pull - a 2-ply thickness - 2/4 pull - a 3-ply thickness - 3/4 pull ! ! ! ! 14 Also referred to as 'Rayon lily yarn', bunka thread is manufactured in Japan. Each skein of this polyester/rayon thread is about 6 meters long. Matsuhato skeins are shorter -about 5 meters in length. Since it is not coIour fast it cannot be used on articles of clothing or household items such as cushions, tea towels, etc. but is used exclusively for the creation of art; pictures, clocks, etc. The finished work is always framed behind glass to protect the stitching from the elements (moisture, dust, pets). The rayon fibers used in bunka thread are woven Into a strand which can then be unraveled into: - a 1-ply thickness - 1/4 pull - a 2-ply thickness - 2/4 pull - a 3-ply thickness - 3/4 pull 14 9) Slip one end of the thread through one of the slits on the winding card. Loosely wind the thread onto the card and tuck in the end. Do not wind too tight since it may cause problems with the thread. See Figure 1. 9) Slip one end of the thread through one of the slits on the winding card. Loosely wind the thread onto the card and tuck in the end. Do not wind too tight since it may cause problems with the thread. See Figure 1. 10) Number and wind all the threads and place in a container so that the thread numbers are clearly visible. 10) Number and wind all the threads and place in a container so that the thread numbers are clearly visible. ABOUT THE THREAD ABOUT THE THREAD ! ! ! ! Also referred to as 'Rayon lily yarn', bunka thread is manufactured in Japan. Each skein of this polyester/rayon thread is about 6 meters long. Matsuhato skeins are shorter -about 5 meters in length. Since it is not coIour fast it cannot be used on articles of clothing or household items such as cushions, tea towels, etc. but is used exclusively for the creation of art; pictures, clocks, etc. The finished work is always framed behind glass to protect the stitching from the elements (moisture, dust, pets). The rayon fibers used in bunka thread are woven Into a strand which can then be unraveled into: - a 1-ply thickness - 1/4 pull - a 2-ply thickness - 2/4 pull - a 3-ply thickness - 3/4 pull 14 ! ! ! ! Also referred to as 'Rayon lily yarn', bunka thread is manufactured in Japan. Each skein of this polyester/rayon thread is about 6 meters long. Matsuhato skeins are shorter -about 5 meters in length. Since it is not coIour fast it cannot be used on articles of clothing or household items such as cushions, tea towels, etc. but is used exclusively for the creation of art; pictures, clocks, etc. The finished work is always framed behind glass to protect the stitching from the elements (moisture, dust, pets). The rayon fibers used in bunka thread are woven Into a strand which can then be unraveled into: - a 1-ply thickness - 1/4 pull - a 2-ply thickness - 2/4 pull - a 3-ply thickness - 3/4 pull 14 full thread full thread 2/4 Pull Thread 2/4 Pull Thread The 2/4 pull is used 99% of the time whereas the 1/4 and 3/4 pull are generally used in more advanced stitching. 2/4 Pull thread is curly which gives Bunks embroidery the beautiful texture; however, if the curl is lost either by pulling incorrectly or ripping and using the thread over a few times, the thread will become straight and shiny (much like embroidery floss) and will not be as attractive. The 2/4 pull is used 99% of the time whereas the 1/4 and 3/4 pull are generally used in more advanced stitching. 2/4 Pull thread is curly which gives Bunks embroidery the beautiful texture; however, if the curl is lost either by pulling incorrectly or ripping and using the thread over a few times, the thread will become straight and shiny (much like embroidery floss) and will not be as attractive. Manière d'étirer le fil au 2/4 Manière d'étirer le fil au 2/4 a) Loosen the fibers at the end of the thread by picking at it with your fingernails. Pinch the loose thread and pull it with a slight jerking motion. This should result in a 2/4 pull. As the thread is pulled back it will make a zipper-like sound. a) Loosen the fibers at the end of the thread by picking at it with your fingernails. Pinch the loose thread and pull it with a slight jerking motion. This should result in a 2/4 pull. As the thread is pulled back it will make a zipper-like sound. b) Holding the start of the pulled thread in one hand. tug on the pulled end until there is about 18- of 2/4 pull. Do not pull excessive amounts at one time. Always pull back on the whole thread when more 2/4 pull is needed to ensure the thread stays nice & curly. b) Holding the start of the pulled thread in one hand. tug on the pulled end until there is about 18- of 2/4 pull. Do not pull excessive amounts at one time. Always pull back on the whole thread when more 2/4 pull is needed to ensure the thread stays nice & curly. RIGHT HAND SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE THICK WHOLE THREAD WHILE PULLING RIGHT HAND SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE THICK WHOLE THREAD WHILE PULLING 15 15 full thread full thread 2/4 Pull Thread 2/4 Pull Thread The 2/4 pull is used 99% of the time whereas the 1/4 and 3/4 pull are generally used in more advanced stitching. 2/4 Pull thread is curly which gives Bunks embroidery the beautiful texture; however, if the curl is lost either by pulling incorrectly or ripping and using the thread over a few times, the thread will become straight and shiny (much like embroidery floss) and will not be as attractive. The 2/4 pull is used 99% of the time whereas the 1/4 and 3/4 pull are generally used in more advanced stitching. 2/4 Pull thread is curly which gives Bunks embroidery the beautiful texture; however, if the curl is lost either by pulling incorrectly or ripping and using the thread over a few times, the thread will become straight and shiny (much like embroidery floss) and will not be as attractive. Manière d'étirer le fil au 2/4 Manière d'étirer le fil au 2/4 a) Loosen the fibers at the end of the thread by picking at it with your fingernails. Pinch the loose thread and pull it with a slight jerking motion. This should result in a 2/4 pull. As the thread is pulled back it will make a zipper-like sound. a) Loosen the fibers at the end of the thread by picking at it with your fingernails. Pinch the loose thread and pull it with a slight jerking motion. This should result in a 2/4 pull. As the thread is pulled back it will make a zipper-like sound. b) Holding the start of the pulled thread in one hand. tug on the pulled end until there is about 18- of 2/4 pull. Do not pull excessive amounts at one time. Always pull back on the whole thread when more 2/4 pull is needed to ensure the thread stays nice & curly. b) Holding the start of the pulled thread in one hand. tug on the pulled end until there is about 18- of 2/4 pull. Do not pull excessive amounts at one time. Always pull back on the whole thread when more 2/4 pull is needed to ensure the thread stays nice & curly. RIGHT HAND SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE THICK WHOLE THREAD WHILE PULLING RIGHT HAND SHOULD BE PLACED ON THE THICK WHOLE THREAD WHILE PULLING 15 15 3/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull is of course thicker than 214 but can differ greatly in appearance and usability; sometimes it will look like 2/4, sometimes it will look similar to chain stitch which spirals and twists. Because of the thickness, 3/4 pull cannot be used on fluffy pictures since it will not brush out. 3/4 Pull is of course thicker than 214 but can differ greatly in appearance and usability; sometimes it will look like 2/4, sometimes it will look similar to chain stitch which spirals and twists. Because of the thickness, 3/4 pull cannot be used on fluffy pictures since it will not brush out. 3/4 Pull is primarily used in advanced work such as on animal claws, teeth, pine needles, and bird beaks. With these applications, it is usually 'polished' which removes all the curt to make the thread look very smooth and shiny like regular embroidery floss. Because it is very straight it is difficult to keep inside the needle, therefore, the use of a piece of a rubber band over the shank of the needle is recommended. (see Threads, 3/4 Polished). 3/4 Pull is primarily used in advanced work such as on animal claws, teeth, pine needles, and bird beaks. With these applications, it is usually 'polished' which removes all the curt to make the thread look very smooth and shiny like regular embroidery floss. Because it is very straight it is difficult to keep inside the needle, therefore, the use of a piece of a rubber band over the shank of the needle is recommended. (see Threads, 3/4 Polished). To Get A 3/4 Pull To Get A 3/4 Pull Start off by pulling about 1" of 2/4 thread. Grab an extra loop in the whole part of your thread and pull. It may take a few tries to get but you will know by the appearance and the sound of the thread pulling back that you have a 3/4 pull (when pulling, 2/4 sounds similar to a zipper whereas 3/4 makes no discernible sound). Start off by pulling about 1" of 2/4 thread. Grab an extra loop in the whole part of your thread and pull. It may take a few tries to get but you will know by the appearance and the sound of the thread pulling back that you have a 3/4 pull (when pulling, 2/4 sounds similar to a zipper whereas 3/4 makes no discernible sound). 16 16 3/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull Thread 3/4 Pull is of course thicker than 214 but can differ greatly in appearance and usability; sometimes it will look like 2/4, sometimes it will look similar to chain stitch which spirals and twists. Because of the thickness, 3/4 pull cannot be used on fluffy pictures since it will not brush out. 3/4 Pull is of course thicker than 214 but can differ greatly in appearance and usability; sometimes it will look like 2/4, sometimes it will look similar to chain stitch which spirals and twists. Because of the thickness, 3/4 pull cannot be used on fluffy pictures since it will not brush out. 3/4 Pull is primarily used in advanced work such as on animal claws, teeth, pine needles, and bird beaks. With these applications, it is usually 'polished' which removes all the curt to make the thread look very smooth and shiny like regular embroidery floss. Because it is very straight it is difficult to keep inside the needle, therefore, the use of a piece of a rubber band over the shank of the needle is recommended. (see Threads, 3/4 Polished). 3/4 Pull is primarily used in advanced work such as on animal claws, teeth, pine needles, and bird beaks. With these applications, it is usually 'polished' which removes all the curt to make the thread look very smooth and shiny like regular embroidery floss. Because it is very straight it is difficult to keep inside the needle, therefore, the use of a piece of a rubber band over the shank of the needle is recommended. (see Threads, 3/4 Polished). To Get A 3/4 Pull To Get A 3/4 Pull Start off by pulling about 1" of 2/4 thread. Grab an extra loop in the whole part of your thread and pull. It may take a few tries to get but you will know by the appearance and the sound of the thread pulling back that you have a 3/4 pull (when pulling, 2/4 sounds similar to a zipper whereas 3/4 makes no discernible sound). Start off by pulling about 1" of 2/4 thread. Grab an extra loop in the whole part of your thread and pull. It may take a few tries to get but you will know by the appearance and the sound of the thread pulling back that you have a 3/4 pull (when pulling, 2/4 sounds similar to a zipper whereas 3/4 makes no discernible sound). 16 16 1/4 Pull Thread 1/4 Pull Thread This thread has a much more relaxed curl to it as com- pared to 2/4 pull but because it is very fragile, it must be handled with extreme care to avoid tired or fluffy thread. Fluffy pictures stitched with 1/4 pull will result in longer, easily brushed out fiber. (see Threads, 1/4 Pull) This thread has a much more relaxed curl to it as com- pared to 2/4 pull but because it is very fragile, it must be handled with extreme care to avoid tired or fluffy thread. Fluffy pictures stitched with 1/4 pull will result in longer, easily brushed out fiber. (see Threads, 1/4 Pull) To Get a 1/4 Pull To Get a 1/4 Pull 1. Moisten the end of whole thread. 1. Moisten the end of whole thread. 2. By stroking the end of the thread with the point of the bunka needle, the tip will spread out into 4 loops. 2. By stroking the end of the thread with the point of the bunka needle, the tip will spread out into 4 loops. 3. Insert the tip of a bunka needle down into the center of the whole thread and gently pull up. A single strand of thread will appear. 3. Insert the tip of a bunka needle down into the center of the whole thread and gently pull up. A single strand of thread will appear. 4. Grasp this end and give a gentle pull. The result will be 1/4 pull. 4. Grasp this end and give a gentle pull. The result will be 1/4 pull. 1/4 pull can very easily catch and slip into a 2/4 or 3/4 pull. If it reverts to a 2/4 pull, place your fingernail directly in front of the catch spot. Give a gentle jerk and the thread will snap back into 1/4 thread. 1/4 pull can very easily catch and slip into a 2/4 or 3/4 pull. If it reverts to a 2/4 pull, place your fingernail directly in front of the catch spot. Give a gentle jerk and the thread will snap back into 1/4 thread. 17 17 1/4 Pull Thread 1/4 Pull Thread This thread has a much more relaxed curl to it as com- pared to 2/4 pull but because it is very fragile, it must be handled with extreme care to avoid tired or fluffy thread. Fluffy pictures stitched with 1/4 pull will result in longer, easily brushed out fiber. (see Threads, 1/4 Pull) This thread has a much more relaxed curl to it as com- pared to 2/4 pull but because it is very fragile, it must be handled with extreme care to avoid tired or fluffy thread. Fluffy pictures stitched with 1/4 pull will result in longer, easily brushed out fiber. (see Threads, 1/4 Pull) To Get a 1/4 Pull To Get a 1/4 Pull 1. Moisten the end of whole thread. 1. Moisten the end of whole thread. 2. By stroking the end of the thread with the point of the bunka needle, the tip will spread out into 4 loops. 2. By stroking the end of the thread with the point of the bunka needle, the tip will spread out into 4 loops. 3. Insert the tip of a bunka needle down into the center of the whole thread and gently pull up. A single strand of thread will appear. 3. Insert the tip of a bunka needle down into the center of the whole thread and gently pull up. A single strand of thread will appear. 4. Grasp this end and give a gentle pull. The result will be 1/4 pull. 4. Grasp this end and give a gentle pull. The result will be 1/4 pull. 1/4 pull can very easily catch and slip into a 2/4 or 3/4 pull. If it reverts to a 2/4 pull, place your fingernail directly in front of the catch spot. Give a gentle jerk and the thread will snap back into 1/4 thread. 1/4 pull can very easily catch and slip into a 2/4 or 3/4 pull. If it reverts to a 2/4 pull, place your fingernail directly in front of the catch spot. Give a gentle jerk and the thread will snap back into 1/4 thread. 17 17 THE NEEDLE THE NEEDLE There are two types of needles in Bunka: There are two types of needles in Bunka: 1. Fluffy 2. Flat 1. Fluffy 2. Flat The only difference between the two needles is the length of the shank of the needle. The shank of the fluffy needle is 1" long compared to ¾" on the flat needle. Other than the difference in shank length, both needles are identical and are threaded in the same manner. The only difference between the two needles is the length of the shank of the needle. The shank of the fluffy needle is 1" long compared to ¾" on the flat needle. Other than the difference in shank length, both needles are identical and are threaded in the same manner. Shank Fluffy (Long shank) Flat (Short shank) 18 Shank Fluffy (Long shank) Flat (Short shank) 18 THE NEEDLE THE NEEDLE There are two types of needles in Bunka: There are two types of needles in Bunka: 1. Fluffy 2. Flat 1. Fluffy 2. Flat The only difference between the two needles is the length of the shank of the needle. The shank of the fluffy needle is 1" long compared to ¾" on the flat needle. Other than the difference in shank length, both needles are identical and are threaded in the same manner. The only difference between the two needles is the length of the shank of the needle. The shank of the fluffy needle is 1" long compared to ¾" on the flat needle. Other than the difference in shank length, both needles are identical and are threaded in the same manner. Shank Fluffy (Long shank) 18 Flat (Short shank) Shank Fluffy (Long shank) 18 Flat (Short shank) How To Thread The Needle How To Thread The Needle The illustration below shows the direction of the thread through the needle. The thread goes down the hole at the top of the needle, out through the side hole that is called the 'headlight', down the grooved side of the needle and out through the eye. A needle threader can be used to pull the end of the thread through the eye. The illustration below shows the direction of the thread through the needle. The thread goes down the hole at the top of the needle, out through the side hole that is called the 'headlight', down the grooved side of the needle and out through the eye. A needle threader can be used to pull the end of the thread through the eye. Once the needle is threaded as in the diagram, hold the end of the thread coming through the eye of the needle and pull back on the other end. The thread should now slip inside the groove and disappear. If not, see-saw the thread back and forth between the two ends until it slips inside. The thread must be inside the needle to start stitching. When properly threaded, the thread should only be visible where it is entering the top and exiting through the eye. Once the needle is threaded as in the diagram, hold the end of the thread coming through the eye of the needle and pull back on the other end. The thread should now slip inside the groove and disappear. If not, see-saw the thread back and forth between the two ends until it slips inside. The thread must be inside the needle to start stitching. When properly threaded, the thread should only be visible where it is entering the top and exiting through the eye. There are other methods you can use to draw the thread through the eye of the needle: There are other methods you can use to draw the thread through the eye of the needle: - Dental floss loop - Dental floss loop - Straight pin - Straight pin 19 19 How To Thread The Needle How To Thread The Needle The illustration below shows the direction of the thread through the needle. The thread goes down the hole at the top of the needle, out through the side hole that is called the 'headlight', down the grooved side of the needle and out through the eye. A needle threader can be used to pull the end of the thread through the eye. The illustration below shows the direction of the thread through the needle. The thread goes down the hole at the top of the needle, out through the side hole that is called the 'headlight', down the grooved side of the needle and out through the eye. A needle threader can be used to pull the end of the thread through the eye. Once the needle is threaded as in the diagram, hold the end of the thread coming through the eye of the needle and pull back on the other end. The thread should now slip inside the groove and disappear. If not, see-saw the thread back and forth between the two ends until it slips inside. The thread must be inside the needle to start stitching. When properly threaded, the thread should only be visible where it is entering the top and exiting through the eye. Once the needle is threaded as in the diagram, hold the end of the thread coming through the eye of the needle and pull back on the other end. The thread should now slip inside the groove and disappear. If not, see-saw the thread back and forth between the two ends until it slips inside. The thread must be inside the needle to start stitching. When properly threaded, the thread should only be visible where it is entering the top and exiting through the eye. There are other methods you can use to draw the thread through the eye of the needle: There are other methods you can use to draw the thread through the eye of the needle: - Dental floss loop - Dental floss loop - Straight pin 19 - Straight pin 19 STEP 2 STEP 2 HOW TO STRETCH AND TACK THE CANVAS HOW TO STRETCH AND TACK THE CANVAS Supplies Supplies 1. Thumb tacks (box of 100) 2. Soft wood work frame 1. Thumb tacks (box of 100) 2. Soft wood work frame Workframes Workframes The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame as tight as possible. A loose canvas will create stitching difficulties: The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame as tight as possible. A loose canvas will create stitching difficulties: ! ! ! the canvas will move up and down with the needle. the thread will not lay flat difficulty keeping the stitches anchored. ! ! ! the canvas will move up and down with the needle. the thread will not lay flat difficulty keeping the stitches anchored. Soft wood such as pine ( 11/4" x ½" ) will make the task of pushing in the thumb tacks much easier. The inside measurement of the frame should be 1.5" larger than the size of the finished picture (plumb line). Soft wood such as pine ( 11/4" x ½" ) will make the task of pushing in the thumb tacks much easier. The inside measurement of the frame should be 1.5" larger than the size of the finished picture (plumb line). Example : Picture Size = 12 x 16 Work frame Inside Measurement = 13.5 x 17.5 Example : Picture Size = 12 x 16 Work frame Inside Measurement = 13.5 x 17.5 There are 2 ways to mount the canvas -the first one without using a plumb line, the second using a plumb line. For most pictures it is strongly recommended that the second plumb line method be utilized since it ensures that the picture is squarely mounted onto the frame and has been stretched evenly in all directions. For simple designs such as fluffies, a plumb line is not necessary as long as care is taken to center and stretch the canvas equally in all four directions. There are 2 ways to mount the canvas -the first one without using a plumb line, the second using a plumb line. For most pictures it is strongly recommended that the second plumb line method be utilized since it ensures that the picture is squarely mounted onto the frame and has been stretched evenly in all directions. For simple designs such as fluffies, a plumb line is not necessary as long as care is taken to center and stretch the canvas equally in all four directions. 20 20 STEP 2 STEP 2 HOW TO STRETCH AND TACK THE CANVAS HOW TO STRETCH AND TACK THE CANVAS Supplies Supplies 1. Thumb tacks (box of 100) 2. Soft wood work frame 1. Thumb tacks (box of 100) 2. Soft wood work frame Workframes Workframes The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame as tight as possible. A loose canvas will create stitching difficulties: The canvas must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame as tight as possible. A loose canvas will create stitching difficulties: ! ! ! the canvas will move up and down with the needle. the thread will not lay flat difficulty keeping the stitches anchored. ! ! ! the canvas will move up and down with the needle. the thread will not lay flat difficulty keeping the stitches anchored. Soft wood such as pine ( 11/4" x ½" ) will make the task of pushing in the thumb tacks much easier. The inside measurement of the frame should be 1.5" larger than the size of the finished picture (plumb line). Soft wood such as pine ( 11/4" x ½" ) will make the task of pushing in the thumb tacks much easier. The inside measurement of the frame should be 1.5" larger than the size of the finished picture (plumb line). Example : Picture Size = 12 x 16 Work frame Inside Measurement = 13.5 x 17.5 Example : Picture Size = 12 x 16 Work frame Inside Measurement = 13.5 x 17.5 There are 2 ways to mount the canvas -the first one without using a plumb line, the second using a plumb line. For most pictures it is strongly recommended that the second plumb line method be utilized since it ensures that the picture is squarely mounted onto the frame and has been stretched evenly in all directions. For simple designs such as fluffies, a plumb line is not necessary as long as care is taken to center and stretch the canvas equally in all four directions. There are 2 ways to mount the canvas -the first one without using a plumb line, the second using a plumb line. For most pictures it is strongly recommended that the second plumb line method be utilized since it ensures that the picture is squarely mounted onto the frame and has been stretched evenly in all directions. For simple designs such as fluffies, a plumb line is not necessary as long as care is taken to center and stretch the canvas equally in all four directions. 20 20 Method 1 - Without Plumbline Method 1 - Without Plumbline 1. WIth printed side up, center the material over the working frame and tack the four comers. 1. WIth printed side up, center the material over the working frame and tack the four comers. 2. Keeping the material taut and straight, place tacks about 1/4" apart. 2. Keeping the material taut and straight, place tacks about 1/4" apart. Method 2 With Plumbline Method 2 With Plumbline The purpose of using a plumb line is to ensure that the canvas has been stretched and tacked evenly in all directions to prevent distorting the design. The purpose of using a plumb line is to ensure that the canvas has been stretched and tacked evenly in all directions to prevent distorting the design. a) Placement of First 8 Tacks a) Placement of First 8 Tacks The first 8 tacks, 2 per corner, are very important. Properly placed they will ensure that the canvas has been stretched tight as a drum and as evenly as possible. Please note that the two tacks are not placed directly in the comer of the work frame but are placed so that they are adjacent to the comer point. The first 8 tacks, 2 per corner, are very important. Properly placed they will ensure that the canvas has been stretched tight as a drum and as evenly as possible. Please note that the two tacks are not placed directly in the comer of the work frame but are placed so that they are adjacent to the comer point. Center the canvas over the work frame. Place one tack at Point A. Pull the material towards Point B (opposite comer) and tack. Repeat for the lower two comers. Tack at C stretch and tack at D. Center the canvas over the work frame. Place one tack at Point A. Pull the material towards Point B (opposite comer) and tack. Repeat for the lower two comers. Tack at C stretch and tack at D. ! ! 21 21 Method 1 - Without Plumbline Method 1 - Without Plumbline 1. WIth printed side up, center the material over the working frame and tack the four comers. 1. WIth printed side up, center the material over the working frame and tack the four comers. 2. Keeping the material taut and straight, place tacks about 1/4" apart. 2. Keeping the material taut and straight, place tacks about 1/4" apart. Method 2 With Plumbline Method 2 With Plumbline The purpose of using a plumb line is to ensure that the canvas has been stretched and tacked evenly in all directions to prevent distorting the design. The purpose of using a plumb line is to ensure that the canvas has been stretched and tacked evenly in all directions to prevent distorting the design. a) Placement of First 8 Tacks a) Placement of First 8 Tacks The first 8 tacks, 2 per corner, are very important. Properly placed they will ensure that the canvas has been stretched tight as a drum and as evenly as possible. Please note that the two tacks are not placed directly in the comer of the work frame but are placed so that they are adjacent to the comer point. The first 8 tacks, 2 per corner, are very important. Properly placed they will ensure that the canvas has been stretched tight as a drum and as evenly as possible. Please note that the two tacks are not placed directly in the comer of the work frame but are placed so that they are adjacent to the comer point. Center the canvas over the work frame. Place one tack at Point A. Pull the material towards Point B (opposite comer) and tack. Repeat for the lower two comers. Tack at C stretch and tack at D. Center the canvas over the work frame. Place one tack at Point A. Pull the material towards Point B (opposite comer) and tack. Repeat for the lower two comers. Tack at C stretch and tack at D. ! ! 21 21 ! Repeat to stretch the canvas vertically. i.e. Tack at E, stretch towards F, and tack. Tack at G, stretch towards H, and tack. b) Inserting the Plumbline ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Thread up a bunka needle with 2/4 pull leftover thread. Turn the frame over and push a tack on the inside of each comer. Do not push them all the way in. These tacks will be used to anchor the thread. Turn the canvas over (printed side facing you) Holding the threaded bunka needle punch like a pencil, push the needle through to its full depth at one of the screen printed corner markings. To get a hold on the thread 'pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand, gently lift out the needle and set it down. A slight tug on the thread will pull the end to the back of the canvas. Wind the end around the tack. Do not push this tack in yet. Take the needle to the next corner and punch in at the corner marking. Grab the loop at the back and slip it over the second tack. Give the thread a slight tug to tighten the line. Push this second tack in to secure. Repeat this step for the next two corners. ! b) Inserting the Plumbline ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 22 ! Repeat to stretch the canvas vertically. i.e. Tack at E, stretch towards F, and tack. Tack at G, stretch towards H, and tack. b) Inserting the Plumbline ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Thread up a bunka needle with 2/4 pull leftover thread. Turn the frame over and push a tack on the inside of each comer. Do not push them all the way in. These tacks will be used to anchor the thread. Turn the canvas over (printed side facing you) Holding the threaded bunka needle punch like a pencil, push the needle through to its full depth at one of the screen printed corner markings. To get a hold on the thread 'pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand, gently lift out the needle and set it down. A slight tug on the thread will pull the end to the back of the canvas. Wind the end around the tack. Do not push this tack in yet. Take the needle to the next corner and punch in at the corner marking. Grab the loop at the back and slip it over the second tack. Give the thread a slight tug to tighten the line. Push this second tack in to secure. Repeat this step for the next two corners. 22 Repeat to stretch the canvas vertically. i.e. Tack at E, stretch towards F, and tack. Tack at G, stretch towards H, and tack. Thread up a bunka needle with 2/4 pull leftover thread. Turn the frame over and push a tack on the inside of each comer. Do not push them all the way in. These tacks will be used to anchor the thread. Turn the canvas over (printed side facing you) Holding the threaded bunka needle punch like a pencil, push the needle through to its full depth at one of the screen printed corner markings. To get a hold on the thread 'pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand, gently lift out the needle and set it down. A slight tug on the thread will pull the end to the back of the canvas. Wind the end around the tack. Do not push this tack in yet. Take the needle to the next corner and punch in at the corner marking. Grab the loop at the back and slip it over the second tack. Give the thread a slight tug to tighten the line. Push this second tack in to secure. Repeat this step for the next two corners. 22 ! Repeat to stretch the canvas vertically. i.e. Tack at E, stretch towards F, and tack. Tack at G, stretch towards H, and tack. b) Inserting the Plumbline ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Thread up a bunka needle with 2/4 pull leftover thread. Turn the frame over and push a tack on the inside of each comer. Do not push them all the way in. These tacks will be used to anchor the thread. Turn the canvas over (printed side facing you) Holding the threaded bunka needle punch like a pencil, push the needle through to its full depth at one of the screen printed corner markings. To get a hold on the thread 'pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand, gently lift out the needle and set it down. A slight tug on the thread will pull the end to the back of the canvas. Wind the end around the tack. Do not push this tack in yet. Take the needle to the next corner and punch in at the corner marking. Grab the loop at the back and slip it over the second tack. Give the thread a slight tug to tighten the line. Push this second tack in to secure. Repeat this step for the next two corners. 22 ! You are now back to the first comer. Punch into the first comer again, hold the loop at the back with your left hand, cut the thread from the front and pull the tail to the back. Wind this end around the first tack and push in to secure. c) There are now two lines on the canvas -one is the thread plumb line, the other is the screenprinted line. The thread plumb line will be perfectly square whereas the printed line should be cupped towards the center (since only the comers have been stretched tight). ! You are now back to the first comer. Punch into the first comer again, hold the loop at the back with your left hand, cut the thread from the front and pull the tail to the back. Wind this end around the first tack and push in to secure. c) There are now two lines on the canvas -one is the thread plumb line, the other is the screenprinted line. The thread plumb line will be perfectly square whereas the printed line should be cupped towards the center (since only the comers have been stretched tight). If the printed line is not curved in, it means that the comers were not stretched enough when placing the first 8 tacks that will result in a loose canvas. To correct this remove one of the 8 tacks, pull and re-tack. If the printed line is not curved in, it means that the comers were not stretched enough when placing the first 8 tacks that will result in a loose canvas. To correct this remove one of the 8 tacks, pull and re-tack. d) Pull the canvas until the printed line matches up with the plumb line. Tack. Continue pulling and tacking all four sides with tacks about 1" apart. d) Pull the canvas until the printed line matches up with the plumb line. Tack. Continue pulling and tacking all four sides with tacks about 1" apart. By following this procedure the canvas may get so tight that the last side may become very difficult to pull. If so, use a pair of pliers to assist in gripping the material -pull the canvas away from you, and tack. By following this procedure the canvas may get so tight that the last side may become very difficult to pull. If so, use a pair of pliers to assist in gripping the material -pull the canvas away from you, and tack. 23 23 ! You are now back to the first comer. Punch into the first comer again, hold the loop at the back with your left hand, cut the thread from the front and pull the tail to the back. Wind this end around the first tack and push in to secure. c) There are now two lines on the canvas -one is the thread plumb line, the other is the screenprinted line. The thread plumb line will be perfectly square whereas the printed line should be cupped towards the center (since only the comers have been stretched tight). ! You are now back to the first comer. Punch into the first comer again, hold the loop at the back with your left hand, cut the thread from the front and pull the tail to the back. Wind this end around the first tack and push in to secure. c) There are now two lines on the canvas -one is the thread plumb line, the other is the screenprinted line. The thread plumb line will be perfectly square whereas the printed line should be cupped towards the center (since only the comers have been stretched tight). If the printed line is not curved in, it means that the comers were not stretched enough when placing the first 8 tacks that will result in a loose canvas. To correct this remove one of the 8 tacks, pull and re-tack. If the printed line is not curved in, it means that the comers were not stretched enough when placing the first 8 tacks that will result in a loose canvas. To correct this remove one of the 8 tacks, pull and re-tack. d) Pull the canvas until the printed line matches up with the plumb line. Tack. Continue pulling and tacking all four sides with tacks about 1" apart. d) Pull the canvas until the printed line matches up with the plumb line. Tack. Continue pulling and tacking all four sides with tacks about 1" apart. By following this procedure the canvas may get so tight that the last side may become very difficult to pull. If so, use a pair of pliers to assist in gripping the material -pull the canvas away from you, and tack. By following this procedure the canvas may get so tight that the last side may become very difficult to pull. If so, use a pair of pliers to assist in gripping the material -pull the canvas away from you, and tack. 23 23 PICTURE STYLES There are two styles of pictures in Bunks Shishu: 1. 2. PICTURE STYLES There are two styles of pictures in Bunks Shishu: Fluffy Picture Flat Stitch Picture 1. 2. Fluffy Picture Flat Stitch Picture The only difference between a flat and fluffy kit is the method of stitchery. If a kit has both fluffy and flat stitching in it, the fluffy areas must be completed first. The only difference between a flat and fluffy kit is the method of stitchery. If a kit has both fluffy and flat stitching in it, the fluffy areas must be completed first. Similarities Similarities ! Both utilize the Lily yarn and Bunka needle. ! Both utilize the Lily yarn and Bunka needle. ! The canvas of both fluffy & flat pictures must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. ! The canvas of both fluffy & flat pictures must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. ! The threads from both types must be wound onto numbered, individual winding cards. ! The threads from both types must be wound onto numbered, individual winding cards. Differences Differences Flat Picture Flat Picture Fluffy Picture Fluffy Picture Stitch on the screenprinted side. This is the finished side. Stitch on the screen-printed side. This is the wrong side. The back of the canvas with all the loops will be the finished side. Stitch on the screenprinted side. This is the finished side. Stitch on the screen-printed side. This is the wrong side. The back of the canvas with all the loops will be the finished side. Stitches should vary in length from 1/4" to 3/4". Stitches are approx. 1/16" in length. Stitches should vary in length from 1/4" to 3/4". Stitches are approx. 1/16" in length. Use flat needle. Use fluffy needle. Use flat needle. Use fluffy needle. 24 24 PICTURE STYLES There are two styles of pictures in Bunks Shishu: 1. 2. PICTURE STYLES There are two styles of pictures in Bunks Shishu: Fluffy Picture Flat Stitch Picture 1. 2. Fluffy Picture Flat Stitch Picture The only difference between a flat and fluffy kit is the method of stitchery. If a kit has both fluffy and flat stitching in it, the fluffy areas must be completed first. The only difference between a flat and fluffy kit is the method of stitchery. If a kit has both fluffy and flat stitching in it, the fluffy areas must be completed first. Similarities Similarities ! Both utilize the Lily yarn and Bunka needle. ! Both utilize the Lily yarn and Bunka needle. ! The canvas of both fluffy & flat pictures must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. ! The canvas of both fluffy & flat pictures must be stretched and tacked onto a work frame. ! The threads from both types must be wound onto numbered, individual winding cards. ! The threads from both types must be wound onto numbered, individual winding cards. Differences Flat Picture Differences Flat Picture Fluffy Picture Fluffy Picture Stitch on the screenprinted side. This is the finished side. Stitch on the screen-printed side. This is the wrong side. The back of the canvas with all the loops will be the finished side. Stitch on the screenprinted side. This is the finished side. Stitch on the screen-printed side. This is the wrong side. The back of the canvas with all the loops will be the finished side. Stitches should vary in length from 1/4" to 3/4". Stitches are approx. 1/16" in length. Stitches should vary in length from 1/4" to 3/4". Stitches are approx. 1/16" in length. Use flat needle. Use fluffy needle. Use flat needle. Use fluffy needle. 24 24 FLAT STITCH PICTURES FLAT STITCH PICTURES Contents of a flat stitch kit Required stitching supplies Contents of a flat stitch kit Required stitching supplies Screen-printed canvas Workframe Screen-printed canvas Workframe Printed paper inserts: Tacks Printed paper inserts: Tacks - a black & white line drawing Winding Cards - a black & white line drawing Winding Cards - a coloured picture Flat stitch needles - a coloured picture Flat stitch needles - stitching notes if available Bunka scissors or clippers - stitching notes if available Bunka scissors or clippers Threads Threads The working surface of Flat stitch pictures is the screen-printed side of the canvas that will also be the side of the finished design. The stitches lay smooth and flat to the material using various techniques. The working surface of Flat stitch pictures is the screen-printed side of the canvas that will also be the side of the finished design. The stitches lay smooth and flat to the material using various techniques. To begin a Flat Stitch picture: To begin a Flat Stitch picture: 1. Stretch the canvas onto the work frame using the Plumb line Technique, Method 2. 2. Wind and number all the threads onto individual cards. 1. Stretch the canvas onto the work frame using the Plumb line Technique, Method 2. 2. Wind and number all the threads onto individual cards. Dimension Dimension Stitch order is extremely important in any flat stitch picture to create the 2-dimensional effect. To achieve this depth perception in your pictures, the basic theory is to stitch the area farthest away first; then stitch progressively forward to the areas in front, to the foreground. Stitch order is extremely important in any flat stitch picture to create the 2-dimensional effect. To achieve this depth perception in your pictures, the basic theory is to stitch the area farthest away first; then stitch progressively forward to the areas in front, to the foreground. 1. Scenes: a) First stitch the sky. 1. Scenes: a) First stitch the sky. 25 FLAT STITCH PICTURES 25 FLAT STITCH PICTURES Contents of a flat stitch kit Required stitching supplies Contents of a flat stitch kit Required stitching supplies Screen-printed canvas Workframe Screen-printed canvas Workframe Printed paper inserts: Tacks Printed paper inserts: Tacks - a black & white line drawing Winding Cards - a black & white line drawing Winding Cards - a coloured picture Flat stitch needles - a coloured picture Flat stitch needles - stitching notes if available Bunka scissors or clippers - stitching notes if available Bunka scissors or clippers Threads Threads The working surface of Flat stitch pictures is the screen-printed side of the canvas that will also be the side of the finished design. The stitches lay smooth and flat to the material using various techniques. The working surface of Flat stitch pictures is the screen-printed side of the canvas that will also be the side of the finished design. The stitches lay smooth and flat to the material using various techniques. To begin a Flat Stitch picture: To begin a Flat Stitch picture: 1. Stretch the canvas onto the work frame using the Plumb line Technique, Method 2. 2. Wind and number all the threads onto individual cards. 1. Stretch the canvas onto the work frame using the Plumb line Technique, Method 2. 2. Wind and number all the threads onto individual cards. Dimension Dimension Stitch order is extremely important in any flat stitch picture to create the 2-dimensional effect. To achieve this depth perception in your pictures, the basic theory is to stitch the area farthest away first; then stitch progressively forward to the areas in front, to the foreground. Stitch order is extremely important in any flat stitch picture to create the 2-dimensional effect. To achieve this depth perception in your pictures, the basic theory is to stitch the area farthest away first; then stitch progressively forward to the areas in front, to the foreground. 1. Scenes: a) First stitch the sky. 1. Scenes: a) First stitch the sky. 25 25 b) c) Second, stitch the mountain (which is in front of the sky) Third, stitch the trees - which are in front of the mountain. b) c) Second, stitch the mountain (which is in front of the sky) Third, stitch the trees - which are in front of the mountain. If the areas are worked in the proper sequence, you will notice that the stitching progresses from the top of the canvas down to the bottom. If the areas are worked in the proper sequence, you will notice that the stitching progresses from the top of the canvas down to the bottom. 2. Flowers 2. Flowers a) b) Start with the petal that is furthest back. Stitch each subsequent petal progressing to the petal that is closest to you. With most flowers, if the petals are stitched in the proper sequence, you will notice that the flower is being worked from the outside petals to the center of the flower. a) b) Start with the petal that is furthest back. Stitch each subsequent petal progressing to the petal that is closest to you. With most flowers, if the petals are stitched in the proper sequence, you will notice that the flower is being worked from the outside petals to the center of the flower. Stitch direction Stitch direction Stitch direction is also very important in Flat Stitching. There are various ways you can distinguish which way the stitching should flow: Stitch direction is also very important in Flat Stitching. There are various ways you can distinguish which way the stitching should flow: 1. The screen-printed blending lines in an area always point in the accurate stitch direction. 1. The screen-printed blending lines in an area always point in the accurate stitch direction. 2. Sometimes arrows are printed either on the canvas or the insert indicating direction. 2. Sometimes arrows are printed either on the canvas or the insert indicating direction. 3. You can usually discern stitch direction by examining the coIoured insert of the finished picture. 3. You can usually discern stitch direction by examining the coIoured insert of the finished picture. How To Start And End The Thread How To Start And End The Thread Knots are not required to anchor Bunks embroidery. The starts and ends will be secured simply by pulling the thread to the wrong side of the canvas. Knots are not required to anchor Bunks embroidery. The starts and ends will be secured simply by pulling the thread to the wrong side of the canvas. 26 b) c) Second, stitch the mountain (which is in front of the sky) Third, stitch the trees - which are in front of the mountain. 26 b) c) Second, stitch the mountain (which is in front of the sky) Third, stitch the trees - which are in front of the mountain. If the areas are worked in the proper sequence, you will notice that the stitching progresses from the top of the canvas down to the bottom. If the areas are worked in the proper sequence, you will notice that the stitching progresses from the top of the canvas down to the bottom. 2. Flowers 2. Flowers a) b) Start with the petal that is furthest back. Stitch each subsequent petal progressing to the petal that is closest to you. With most flowers, if the petals are stitched in the proper sequence, you will notice that the flower is being worked from the outside petals to the center of the flower. a) b) Start with the petal that is furthest back. Stitch each subsequent petal progressing to the petal that is closest to you. With most flowers, if the petals are stitched in the proper sequence, you will notice that the flower is being worked from the outside petals to the center of the flower. Stitch direction Stitch direction Stitch direction is also very important in Flat Stitching. There are various ways you can distinguish which way the stitching should flow: Stitch direction is also very important in Flat Stitching. There are various ways you can distinguish which way the stitching should flow: 1. The screen-printed blending lines in an area always point in the accurate stitch direction. 1. The screen-printed blending lines in an area always point in the accurate stitch direction. 2. Sometimes arrows are printed either on the canvas or the insert indicating direction. 2. Sometimes arrows are printed either on the canvas or the insert indicating direction. 3. You can usually discern stitch direction by examining the coIoured insert of the finished picture. 3. You can usually discern stitch direction by examining the coIoured insert of the finished picture. How To Start And End The Thread How To Start And End The Thread Knots are not required to anchor Bunks embroidery. The starts and ends will be secured simply by pulling the thread to the wrong side of the canvas. Knots are not required to anchor Bunks embroidery. The starts and ends will be secured simply by pulling the thread to the wrong side of the canvas. 26 26 To Start To Start a. Have about 1/8 -1/4" excess thread extending out through the eye of the needle. Rest the work frame between the edge of a table and your lap with your left hand under the canvas. a. Have about 1/8 -1/4" excess thread extending out through the eye of the needle. Rest the work frame between the edge of a table and your lap with your left hand under the canvas. b. Holding the needle like a pencil, perpendicular to the canvas push the shank of the needle into the canvas as far as it will go. 'Pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand. b. Holding the needle like a pencil, perpendicular to the canvas push the shank of the needle into the canvas as far as it will go. 'Pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand. c. Slide the needle out from between your fingers and lift out of the canvas. c. Slide the needle out from between your fingers and lift out of the canvas. d. A slight tug will pull the end of the thread to the back of the canvas. Pulling too hard will waste thread. d. A slight tug will pull the end of the thread to the back of the canvas. Pulling too hard will waste thread. To End The Thread To End The Thread The thread must be cut off when an area is completed or if there is a change in colour. It is cut on the stitching side of the material and the end pulled to the back. The thread must be cut off when an area is completed or if there is a change in colour. It is cut on the stitching side of the material and the end pulled to the back. a) a) On the last stitch, with the needle still in the canvas and your left hand under the canvas, 'pinch' the needle shank with the left hand fingers, gently lift the needle up and out of the material. By pinching and withdrawing the needle the loop of thread will be held firmly between your fingers. Lay down the needle. On the last stitch, with the needle still in the canvas and your left hand under the canvas, 'pinch' the needle shank with the left hand fingers, gently lift the needle up and out of the material. By pinching and withdrawing the needle the loop of thread will be held firmly between your fingers. Lay down the needle. 27 27 To Start To Start a. Have about 1/8 -1/4" excess thread extending out through the eye of the needle. Rest the work frame between the edge of a table and your lap with your left hand under the canvas. a. Have about 1/8 -1/4" excess thread extending out through the eye of the needle. Rest the work frame between the edge of a table and your lap with your left hand under the canvas. b. Holding the needle like a pencil, perpendicular to the canvas push the shank of the needle into the canvas as far as it will go. 'Pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand. b. Holding the needle like a pencil, perpendicular to the canvas push the shank of the needle into the canvas as far as it will go. 'Pinch' the tip of the needle between the fingers of your left hand. c. Slide the needle out from between your fingers and lift out of the canvas. c. Slide the needle out from between your fingers and lift out of the canvas. d. A slight tug will pull the end of the thread to the back of the canvas. Pulling too hard will waste thread. d. A slight tug will pull the end of the thread to the back of the canvas. Pulling too hard will waste thread. To End The Thread To End The Thread The thread must be cut off when an area is completed or if there is a change in colour. It is cut on the stitching side of the material and the end pulled to the back. The thread must be cut off when an area is completed or if there is a change in colour. It is cut on the stitching side of the material and the end pulled to the back. a) a) On the last stitch, with the needle still in the canvas and your left hand under the canvas, 'pinch' the needle shank with the left hand fingers, gently lift the needle up and out of the material. By pinching and withdrawing the needle the loop of thread will be held firmly between your fingers. Lay down the needle. 27 On the last stitch, with the needle still in the canvas and your left hand under the canvas, 'pinch' the needle shank with the left hand fingers, gently lift the needle up and out of the material. By pinching and withdrawing the needle the loop of thread will be held firmly between your fingers. Lay down the needle. 27 b) Holding the last loop of thread at the back of the canvas with your left hand, cut the thread from the top of the canvas, very close to the cloth. b) Holding the last loop of thread at the back of the canvas with your left hand, cut the thread from the top of the canvas, very close to the cloth. c) With the left hand pull the end to the back. c) With the left hand pull the end to the back. cut at this point pull end down to back of material cut at this point pull end down to back of material Basic Needle Movement Basic Needle Movement 1. Hold the needle like a pencil, and punch through the canvas -pull the start to the back of the canvas. 1. Hold the needle like a pencil, and punch through the canvas -pull the start to the back of the canvas. 2. Turn the needle so that the 'Head light' is pointing in the stitch direction. This will ensure that the thread is flowingcorrectly through the needle. 2. Turn the needle so that the 'Head light' is pointing in the stitch direction. This will ensure that the thread is flowingcorrectly through the needle. 3. Gently pull the needle up until the tip of the needle just clears the canvas. To keep the thread as flat as possible to the material, it is important not to lift the needle off the surface of the material. 3. Gently pull the needle up until the tip of the needle just clears the canvas. To keep the thread as flat as possible to the material, it is important not to lift the needle off the surface of the material. 4. In a smooth gliding motion drag the needle tip along the fabric for about 1/2" - 3/4", You should be able to hear the needle 'scratching' the canvas, 4. In a smooth gliding motion drag the needle tip along the fabric for about 1/2" - 3/4", You should be able to hear the needle 'scratching' the canvas, 5. Place your non-stitching hand underneath the canvas. Press your finger gently on the point 5. Place your non-stitching hand underneath the canvas. Press your finger gently on the point 28 28 b) Holding the last loop of thread at the back of the canvas with your left hand, cut the thread from the top of the canvas, very close to the cloth. b) Holding the last loop of thread at the back of the canvas with your left hand, cut the thread from the top of the canvas, very close to the cloth. c) With the left hand pull the end to the back. c) With the left hand pull the end to the back. cut at this point pull end down to back of material cut at this point pull end down to back of material Basic Needle Movement Basic Needle Movement 1. Hold the needle like a pencil, and punch through the canvas -pull the start to the back of the canvas. 1. Hold the needle like a pencil, and punch through the canvas -pull the start to the back of the canvas. 2. Turn the needle so that the 'Head light' is pointing in the stitch direction. This will ensure that the thread is flowingcorrectly through the needle. 2. Turn the needle so that the 'Head light' is pointing in the stitch direction. This will ensure that the thread is flowingcorrectly through the needle. 3. Gently pull the needle up until the tip of the needle just clears the canvas. To keep the thread as flat as possible to the material, it is important not to lift the needle off the surface of the material. 3. Gently pull the needle up until the tip of the needle just clears the canvas. To keep the thread as flat as possible to the material, it is important not to lift the needle off the surface of the material. 4. In a smooth gliding motion drag the needle tip along the fabric for about 1/2" - 3/4", You should be able to hear the needle 'scratching' the canvas, 4. In a smooth gliding motion drag the needle tip along the fabric for about 1/2" - 3/4", You should be able to hear the needle 'scratching' the canvas, 5. Place your non-stitching hand underneath the canvas. Press your finger gently on the point 5. Place your non-stitching hand underneath the canvas. Press your finger gently on the point 28 28 of the needle as the needle is being lifted out. Keep your finger on this spot even when the needle has been completely withdrawn. The thread loop left by the needle is now pressed under your finger. of the needle as the needle is being lifted out. Keep your finger on this spot even when the needle has been completely withdrawn. The thread loop left by the needle is now pressed under your finger. Repeat this action using both hands, taking 1/2" stitches across the area. With experience, this motion will become automatic and ensures that your stitching will remain secure. Repeat this action using both hands, taking 1/2" stitches across the area. With experience, this motion will become automatic and ensures that your stitching will remain secure. 6. Insert or punch the needle through as far as it will go. Repeat from Step 3. This will create a line of thread referred to as 'Running Stitch' (see Stitch Glossary, Running Stitch). 6. Insert or punch the needle through as far as it will go. Repeat from Step 3. This will create a line of thread referred to as 'Running Stitch' (see Stitch Glossary, Running Stitch). 7. To fill in a large area such as sky or water, rows of Running Stitches are worked side by side and is called Sky or Flat Stitching. Refer to Sky or Flat Stitch for detailed explanation of Flat Stitching. 7. To fill in a large area such as sky or water, rows of Running Stitches are worked side by side and is called Sky or Flat Stitching. Refer to Sky or Flat Stitch for detailed explanation of Flat Stitching. To start and end the running stitch To start and end the running stitch Front Front Back Back a) Hold needle like pencil b) Insert needle full depth. Hold needle and thread underneath c) Pull needle gently up to cloth d) Pull thread down and leave only 1/2” hanging down e) Slide needle 1/2” and insert to full depth, then pull up to top of cloth f) g) h) Same as a) a) Hold needle like pencil b) Insert needle full depth. Hold needle and thread underneath c) Pull needle gently up to cloth d) Pull thread down and leave only 1/2” hanging down e) Slide needle 1/2” and insert to full depth, then pull up to top of cloth f) g) h) Same as a) 29 29 of the needle as the needle is being lifted out. Keep your finger on this spot even when the needle has been completely withdrawn. The thread loop left by the needle is now pressed under your finger. of the needle as the needle is being lifted out. Keep your finger on this spot even when the needle has been completely withdrawn. The thread loop left by the needle is now pressed under your finger. Repeat this action using both hands, taking 1/2" stitches across the area. With experience, this motion will become automatic and ensures that your stitching will remain secure. Repeat this action using both hands, taking 1/2" stitches across the area. With experience, this motion will become automatic and ensures that your stitching will remain secure. 6. Insert or punch the needle through as far as it will go. Repeat from Step 3. This will create a line of thread referred to as 'Running Stitch' (see Stitch Glossary, Running Stitch). 6. Insert or punch the needle through as far as it will go. Repeat from Step 3. This will create a line of thread referred to as 'Running Stitch' (see Stitch Glossary, Running Stitch). 7. To fill in a large area such as sky or water, rows of Running Stitches are worked side by side and is called Sky or Flat Stitching. Refer to Sky or Flat Stitch for detailed explanation of Flat Stitching. 7. To fill in a large area such as sky or water, rows of Running Stitches are worked side by side and is called Sky or Flat Stitching. Refer to Sky or Flat Stitch for detailed explanation of Flat Stitching. To start and end the running stitch To start and end the running stitch Front Front Back Back a) Hold needle like pencil b) Insert needle full depth. Hold needle and thread underneath c) Pull needle gently up to cloth d) Pull thread down and leave only 1/2” hanging down e) Slide needle 1/2” and insert to full depth, then pull up to top of cloth f) g) h) Same as a) a) Hold needle like pencil b) Insert needle full depth. Hold needle and thread underneath c) Pull needle gently up to cloth d) Pull thread down and leave only 1/2” hanging down e) Slide needle 1/2” and insert to full depth, then pull up to top of cloth f) g) h) Same as a) 29 29 Trouble Shooting Trouble Shooting 1. It is very important that the needle is punched into the full depth of the shank. Every time the needle is pushed in and withdrawn a small loop of thread is created which is anchoring the stitch. If the needle has not been fully inserted the loop will not be large enough to secure the thread. 1. It is very important that the needle is punched into the full depth of the shank. Every time the needle is pushed in and withdrawn a small loop of thread is created which is anchoring the stitch. If the needle has not been fully inserted the loop will not be large enough to secure the thread. 2. Bunka thread must flow freely through the needle. If the thread is not staying in the canvas, check the following: 2. Bunka thread must flow freely through the needle. If the thread is not staying in the canvas, check the following: ! needle was not inserted to the proper depth ! needle was not inserted to the proper depth ! thread may be caught on something. ! thread may be caught on something. ! whole thread has been allowed to go down the needle. -2/4 thread needs to be pulled. ! whole thread has been allowed to go down the needle. -2/4 thread needs to be pulled. ! thread has lost It's kink either through overuse or exposure to moisture. Pull through the eye of the needle and cut-off the damaged part. ! thread has lost It's kink either through overuse or exposure to moisture. Pull through the eye of the needle and cut-off the damaged part. ! thread has slipped out of the needle at some point. Pull back until it goes inside. ! thread has slipped out of the needle at some point. Pull back until it goes inside. ! ! canvas is not tight enough. Tighten by removing one tack, stretching the canvas and re-tacking. Work one tack at a time. ! Non-stitching hand is not being used underneath the canvas. . ! 30 canvas is not tight enough. Tighten by removing one tack, stretching the canvas and re-tacking. Work one tack at a time. Non-stitching hand is not being used underneath the canvas. . 30 Trouble Shooting Trouble Shooting 1. It is very important that the needle is punched into the full depth of the shank. Every time the needle is pushed in and withdrawn a small loop of thread is created which is anchoring the stitch. If the needle has not been fully inserted the loop will not be large enough to secure the thread. 1. It is very important that the needle is punched into the full depth of the shank. Every time the needle is pushed in and withdrawn a small loop of thread is created which is anchoring the stitch. If the needle has not been fully inserted the loop will not be large enough to secure the thread. 2. Bunka thread must flow freely through the needle. If the thread is not staying in the canvas, check the following: 2. Bunka thread must flow freely through the needle. If the thread is not staying in the canvas, check the following: ! needle was not inserted to the proper depth ! needle was not inserted to the proper depth ! thread may be caught on something. ! thread may be caught on something. ! whole thread has been allowed to go down the needle. -2/4 thread needs to be pulled. ! whole thread has been allowed to go down the needle. -2/4 thread needs to be pulled. ! thread has lost It's kink either through overuse or exposure to moisture. Pull through the eye of the needle and cut-off the damaged part. ! thread has lost It's kink either through overuse or exposure to moisture. Pull through the eye of the needle and cut-off the damaged part. ! thread has slipped out of the needle at some point. Pull back until it goes inside. ! thread has slipped out of the needle at some point. Pull back until it goes inside. ! ! 30 canvas is not tight enough. Tighten by removing one tack, stretching the canvas and re-tacking. Work one tack at a time. ! Non-stitching hand is not being used underneath the canvas. . ! 30 canvas is not tight enough. Tighten by removing one tack, stretching the canvas and re-tacking. Work one tack at a time. Non-stitching hand is not being used underneath the canvas. . Fluffy Pictures Fluffy Pictures Contents of a Fluffy Kit Required Stitching Supplies Contents of a Fluffy Kit Required Stitching Supplies Threads Screen-printed canvas Coloured & numbered insert May contain accessories Fluffy needle Winding cards Thumb tacks Bunka wire brush Workframe Bunka clippers or scissors Threads Screen-printed canvas Coloured & numbered insert May contain accessories Fluffy needle Winding cards Thumb tacks Bunka wire brush Workframe Bunka clippers or scissors Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side of the canvas -this is the back or wrong side. The non-screen printed side is the good or finished side of fluffy stitching. The loops left by the needle on the non-screen printed side will be brushed out with a special bunka brush that separates it into soft mohair-like fibers. Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side of the canvas -this is the back or wrong side. The non-screen printed side is the good or finished side of fluffy stitching. The loops left by the needle on the non-screen printed side will be brushed out with a special bunka brush that separates it into soft mohair-like fibers. Some kits have fluffy and flat stitching combined on the same canvas in which case the fluffy stitching and brushing must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. If the fluffy areas have not been screen-printed on the back of the canvas then it will be necessary to trace these areas -stretch the canvas onto the work frame; with the wrong side facing you hold the canvas up to the light and trace the fluffy areas with a pencil. Stitch on this side. Some kits have fluffy and flat stitching combined on the same canvas in which case the fluffy stitching and brushing must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. If the fluffy areas have not been screen-printed on the back of the canvas then it will be necessary to trace these areas -stretch the canvas onto the work frame; with the wrong side facing you hold the canvas up to the light and trace the fluffy areas with a pencil. Stitch on this side. 31 Fluffy Pictures 31 Fluffy Pictures Contents of a Fluffy Kit Required Stitching Supplies Contents of a Fluffy Kit Required Stitching Supplies Threads Screen-printed canvas Coloured & numbered insert May contain accessories Fluffy needle Winding cards Thumb tacks Bunka wire brush Workframe Bunka clippers or scissors Threads Screen-printed canvas Coloured & numbered insert May contain accessories Fluffy needle Winding cards Thumb tacks Bunka wire brush Workframe Bunka clippers or scissors Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side of the canvas -this is the back or wrong side. The non-screen printed side is the good or finished side of fluffy stitching. The loops left by the needle on the non-screen printed side will be brushed out with a special bunka brush that separates it into soft mohair-like fibers. Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side of the canvas -this is the back or wrong side. The non-screen printed side is the good or finished side of fluffy stitching. The loops left by the needle on the non-screen printed side will be brushed out with a special bunka brush that separates it into soft mohair-like fibers. Some kits have fluffy and flat stitching combined on the same canvas in which case the fluffy stitching and brushing must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. If the fluffy areas have not been screen-printed on the back of the canvas then it will be necessary to trace these areas -stretch the canvas onto the work frame; with the wrong side facing you hold the canvas up to the light and trace the fluffy areas with a pencil. Stitch on this side. Some kits have fluffy and flat stitching combined on the same canvas in which case the fluffy stitching and brushing must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. If the fluffy areas have not been screen-printed on the back of the canvas then it will be necessary to trace these areas -stretch the canvas onto the work frame; with the wrong side facing you hold the canvas up to the light and trace the fluffy areas with a pencil. Stitch on this side. 31 31 Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. 2/4 pull thread is used on most fluffy pictures but 1/4 pull thread can also be used. 1/4 pull is very easy to brush out and results in longer, lighter pile. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. 2/4 pull thread is used on most fluffy pictures but 1/4 pull thread can also be used. 1/4 pull is very easy to brush out and results in longer, lighter pile. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. Please refer to Fluffy or Pile Stitch for detailed instruction. Please refer to Fluffy or Pile Stitch for detailed instruction. Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. 2/4 pull thread is used on most fluffy pictures but 1/4 pull thread can also be used. 1/4 pull is very easy to brush out and results in longer, lighter pile. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. 2/4 pull thread is used on most fluffy pictures but 1/4 pull thread can also be used. 1/4 pull is very easy to brush out and results in longer, lighter pile. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. Please refer to Fluffy or Pile Stitch for detailed instruction. Please refer to Fluffy or Pile Stitch for detailed instruction. Section 11 Section 11 Glossary of Stitches and Techniques Glossary of Stitches and Techniques Section 11 Section 11 Glossary of Stitches and Techniques Glossary of Stitches and Techniques SECTION 11 SECTION 11 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES Angora Stitch ...................................................... Back Tracking ..................................................... Base Stitching .................................................... Birds, Beak & Claws .......................................... Birds, Breast ....................................................... Birds, Eyes ........................................................ Birds, Feathers .................................................. Birds, Legs .......................................................... Birds, Stitch Order ............................................. Blanket Edge Stitch ........................................... Blending ............................................................ Stitch Blending .............................................. Row Blending ............................................... Blizzard Stitch .................................................... Chain Stitch ....................................................... Claw Stitch .......................................................... Clip Stitch ........................................................... Cord Stitch ......................................................... Cord Stitch Variations .................................. Couching Stitch .................................................. To Tack Down Inlay Stitch ............................ To Tack Down Ring Stitch ............................ Curves ............................................................... Double Canvas .................................................. Double Stitching ................................................. 40 41 41 41 44 44 45 46 48 48 51 52 53 54 55 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 63 64 67 34 40 41 41 41 44 44 45 46 48 48 51 52 53 54 55 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 63 64 67 34 SECTION 11 SECTION 11 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES GLOSSARY OF STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES Angora Stitch ...................................................... Back Tracking ..................................................... Base Stitching .................................................... Birds, Beak & Claws .......................................... Birds, Breast ....................................................... Birds, Eyes ........................................................ Birds, Feathers .................................................. Birds, Legs .......................................................... Birds, Stitch Order ............................................. Blanket Edge Stitch ........................................... Blending ............................................................ Stitch Blending .............................................. Row Blending ............................................... Blizzard Stitch .................................................... Chain Stitch ....................................................... Claw Stitch .......................................................... Clip Stitch ........................................................... Cord Stitch ......................................................... Cord Stitch Variations .................................. Couching Stitch .................................................. To Tack Down Inlay Stitch ............................ To Tack Down Ring Stitch ............................ Curves ............................................................... Double Canvas .................................................. Double Stitching ................................................. 34 Angora Stitch ...................................................... Back Tracking ..................................................... Base Stitching .................................................... Birds, Beak & Claws .......................................... Birds, Breast ....................................................... Birds, Eyes ........................................................ Birds, Feathers .................................................. Birds, Legs .......................................................... Birds, Stitch Order ............................................. Blanket Edge Stitch ........................................... Blending ............................................................ Stitch Blending .............................................. Row Blending ............................................... Blizzard Stitch .................................................... Chain Stitch ....................................................... Claw Stitch .......................................................... Clip Stitch ........................................................... Cord Stitch ......................................................... Cord Stitch Variations .................................. Couching Stitch .................................................. To Tack Down Inlay Stitch ............................ To Tack Down Ring Stitch ............................ Curves ............................................................... Double Canvas .................................................. Double Stitching ................................................. 40 41 41 41 44 44 45 46 48 48 51 52 53 54 55 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 63 64 67 Angora Stitch ...................................................... Back Tracking ..................................................... Base Stitching .................................................... Birds, Beak & Claws .......................................... Birds, Breast ....................................................... Birds, Eyes ........................................................ Birds, Feathers .................................................. Birds, Legs .......................................................... Birds, Stitch Order ............................................. Blanket Edge Stitch ........................................... Blending ............................................................ Stitch Blending .............................................. Row Blending ............................................... Blizzard Stitch .................................................... Chain Stitch ....................................................... Claw Stitch .......................................................... Clip Stitch ........................................................... Cord Stitch ......................................................... Cord Stitch Variations .................................. Couching Stitch .................................................. To Tack Down Inlay Stitch ............................ To Tack Down Ring Stitch ............................ Curves ............................................................... Double Canvas .................................................. Double Stitching ................................................. 34 40 41 41 41 44 44 45 46 48 48 51 52 53 54 55 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 63 64 67 Eyes, Gold Ribbon ............................................. Padding ........................................................ Gluing the Gold Ribbon ............................... Attaching the Pupil ........................................ Eyeliners ........................................................ Highlight ........................................................ Eyes, Stitched .................................................... Faces .................................................................. Feathering Stitch ................................................. Fish, Eyes ........................................................... Fish, Feelers & Mouth ........................................ Fish, Scales ........................................................ Fish, Order of Stitchery ...................................... Flat Stitch ............................................................ Flowers, Centres ................................................ Flowers, Petal Separation .................................. Flowers, Rollovers/Rollunders ........................... Flowers, Stems .................................................. Flowers, Order of Stitchery ................................. Fluffy Stitch ......................................................... To Start ......................................................... To Stop ......................................................... Brush ............................................................ Sculpturing ................................................... Fluffy Animals .............................................. Foam Stitch ......................................................... French Knot ....................................................... Grass Stitch ....................................................... Hair, Hairplanting ................................................ Hair, Layers ....................................................... 67 70 71 71 71 72 74 75 77 79 82 83 84 84 87 88 89 90 91 92 94 96 96 98 98 99 100 101 101 102 Eyes, Gold Ribbon ............................................. Padding ........................................................ Gluing the Gold Ribbon ............................... Attaching the Pupil ........................................ Eyeliners ........................................................ Highlight ........................................................ Eyes, Stitched .................................................... Faces .................................................................. Feathering Stitch ................................................. Fish, Eyes ........................................................... Fish, Feelers & Mouth ........................................ Fish, Scales ........................................................ Fish, Order of Stitchery ...................................... Flat Stitch ............................................................ Flowers, Centres ................................................ Flowers, Petal Separation .................................. Flowers, Rollovers/Rollunders ........................... Flowers, Stems .................................................. Flowers, Order of Stitchery ................................. Fluffy Stitch ......................................................... To Start ......................................................... To Stop ......................................................... Brush ............................................................ Sculpturing ................................................... Fluffy Animals .............................................. Foam Stitch ......................................................... French Knot ....................................................... Grass Stitch ....................................................... Hair, Hairplanting ................................................ Hair, Layers ....................................................... 35 Eyes, Gold Ribbon ............................................. Padding ........................................................ Gluing the Gold Ribbon ............................... Attaching the Pupil ........................................ Eyeliners ........................................................ Highlight ........................................................ Eyes, Stitched .................................................... Faces .................................................................. Feathering Stitch ................................................. Fish, Eyes ........................................................... Fish, Feelers & Mouth ........................................ Fish, Scales ........................................................ Fish, Order of Stitchery ...................................... Flat Stitch ............................................................ Flowers, Centres ................................................ Flowers, Petal Separation .................................. Flowers, Rollovers/Rollunders ........................... Flowers, Stems .................................................. Flowers, Order of Stitchery ................................. Fluffy Stitch ......................................................... To Start ......................................................... To Stop ......................................................... Brush ............................................................ Sculpturing ................................................... Fluffy Animals .............................................. Foam Stitch ......................................................... French Knot ....................................................... Grass Stitch ....................................................... Hair, Hairplanting ................................................ Hair, Layers ....................................................... 67 70 71 71 71 72 74 75 77 79 82 83 84 84 87 88 89 90 91 92 94 96 96 98 98 99 100 101 101 102 35 67 70 71 71 71 72 74 75 77 79 82 83 84 84 87 88 89 90 91 92 94 96 96 98 98 99 100 101 101 102 35 Eyes, Gold Ribbon ............................................. Padding ........................................................ Gluing the Gold Ribbon ............................... Attaching the Pupil ........................................ Eyeliners ........................................................ Highlight ........................................................ Eyes, Stitched .................................................... Faces .................................................................. Feathering Stitch ................................................. Fish, Eyes ........................................................... Fish, Feelers & Mouth ........................................ Fish, Scales ........................................................ Fish, Order of Stitchery ...................................... Flat Stitch ............................................................ Flowers, Centres ................................................ Flowers, Petal Separation .................................. Flowers, Rollovers/Rollunders ........................... Flowers, Stems .................................................. Flowers, Order of Stitchery ................................. Fluffy Stitch ......................................................... To Start ......................................................... To Stop ......................................................... Brush ............................................................ Sculpturing ................................................... Fluffy Animals .............................................. Foam Stitch ......................................................... French Knot ....................................................... Grass Stitch ....................................................... Hair, Hairplanting ................................................ Hair, Layers ....................................................... 67 70 71 71 71 72 74 75 77 79 82 83 84 84 87 88 89 90 91 92 94 96 96 98 98 99 100 101 101 102 35 Hair, Styling ....................................................... Highlights ............................................................ Inlay Stitch .......................................................... Ladder Stitch ...................................................... Layered Stitching ................................................ Lazy Daizy Stitch ................................................ Leaves - Bamboo ............................................... Leaves - Claw Clusters ...................................... Leaves - Feather Stitch , Smooth ...................... Leaves - Feather Stitch, Pointed ...................... Leaves - Maple ................................................... Center Vein Method .................................... Wedge Stitch Method .................................... Leaves - Palette ................................................. Leaves - Small Satin .......................................... Left-Handed Stitchers ......................................... Outlining ............................................................. Overlay Stitch ..................................................... Padding .............................................................. Padding, Deep Dimensional .............................. Padding, Double Stitching ................................. Padding, Fluffy .................................................... Padding, Line ..................................................... Padding, Multi-Colour ........................................ Padding, Raised ................................................. Padding, Solid .................................................... Padding, Tapered ............................................... Picot Stitch ......................................................... Pile Stitch (see Fluffy Stitch) ............................... Pine Needle Stitch .............................................. 102 104 105 106 106 107 107 108 110 112 112 113 114 115 116 117 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 125 127 128 129 130 132 132 Hair, Styling ....................................................... Highlights ............................................................ Inlay Stitch .......................................................... Ladder Stitch ...................................................... Layered Stitching ................................................ Lazy Daizy Stitch ................................................ Leaves - Bamboo ............................................... Leaves - Claw Clusters ...................................... Leaves - Feather Stitch , Smooth ...................... Leaves - Feather Stitch, Pointed ...................... Leaves - Maple ................................................... Center Vein Method .................................... Wedge Stitch Method .................................... Leaves - Palette ................................................. Leaves - Small Satin .......................................... Left-Handed Stitchers ......................................... Outlining ............................................................. Overlay Stitch ..................................................... Padding .............................................................. Padding, Deep Dimensional .............................. Padding, Double Stitching ................................. Padding, Fluffy .................................................... Padding, Line ..................................................... Padding, Multi-Colour ........................................ Padding, Raised ................................................. Padding, Solid .................................................... Padding, Tapered ............................................... Picot Stitch ......................................................... Pile Stitch (see Fluffy Stitch) ............................... Pine Needle Stitch .............................................. 102 104 105 106 106 107 107 108 110 112 112 113 114 115 116 117 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 125 127 128 129 130 132 132 Hair, Styling ....................................................... Highlights ............................................................ Inlay Stitch .......................................................... Ladder Stitch ...................................................... Layered Stitching ................................................ Lazy Daizy Stitch ................................................ Leaves - Bamboo ............................................... Leaves - Claw Clusters ...................................... Leaves - Feather Stitch , Smooth ...................... Leaves - Feather Stitch, Pointed ...................... Leaves - Maple ................................................... Center Vein Method .................................... Wedge Stitch Method .................................... Leaves - Palette ................................................. Leaves - Small Satin .......................................... Left-Handed Stitchers ......................................... Outlining ............................................................. Overlay Stitch ..................................................... Padding .............................................................. Padding, Deep Dimensional .............................. Padding, Double Stitching ................................. Padding, Fluffy .................................................... Padding, Line ..................................................... Padding, Multi-Colour ........................................ Padding, Raised ................................................. Padding, Solid .................................................... Padding, Tapered ............................................... Picot Stitch ......................................................... Pile Stitch (see Fluffy Stitch) ............................... Pine Needle Stitch .............................................. 102 104 105 106 106 107 107 108 110 112 112 113 114 115 116 117 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 125 127 128 129 130 132 132 Hair, Styling ....................................................... Highlights ............................................................ Inlay Stitch .......................................................... Ladder Stitch ...................................................... Layered Stitching ................................................ Lazy Daizy Stitch ................................................ Leaves - Bamboo ............................................... Leaves - Claw Clusters ...................................... Leaves - Feather Stitch , Smooth ...................... Leaves - Feather Stitch, Pointed ...................... Leaves - Maple ................................................... Center Vein Method .................................... Wedge Stitch Method .................................... Leaves - Palette ................................................. Leaves - Small Satin .......................................... Left-Handed Stitchers ......................................... Outlining ............................................................. Overlay Stitch ..................................................... Padding .............................................................. Padding, Deep Dimensional .............................. Padding, Double Stitching ................................. Padding, Fluffy .................................................... Padding, Line ..................................................... Padding, Multi-Colour ........................................ Padding, Raised ................................................. Padding, Solid .................................................... Padding, Tapered ............................................... Picot Stitch ......................................................... Pile Stitch (see Fluffy Stitch) ............................... Pine Needle Stitch .............................................. 102 104 105 106 106 107 107 108 110 112 112 113 114 115 116 117 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 125 127 128 129 130 132 132 Pine Needle Clusters .................................... Method 1 - formal ................................ Method 2 - Informal ................................ Single Pine Needles .................................... Popcorn Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch - Wet .......................................... Rice Glue ........................................................... Ring Stitch .......................................................... Running Stitch ................................................... Satin Stitch ......................................................... Seaming ............................................................. Sky Stitch .......................................................... Spiral Stitch ....................................................... Split Stitch .......................................................... Stitch and Cuts ................................................. Stretch Stitch ...................................................... Symbols ............................................................. Solid Padding Symbol .................................. Area of Change Symbol ............................... Jagged Lines ............................................... Arrows ......................................................... Dotted Area ................................................. Fraction ........................................................ Thread - Special Notes ...................................... To Polish 3/4 Pull ......................................... 1/4 Pull ......................................................... Thread Blending .................................... Tips for Stitching with 1/4 Pull ................ Metallic Threads ........................................... 132 132 133 134 134 135 137 137 138 139 140 141 142 142 143 144 145 146 146 147 147 147 148 148 148 148 149 149 149 150 Pine Needle Clusters .................................... Method 1 - formal ................................ Method 2 - Informal ................................ Single Pine Needles .................................... Popcorn Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch - Wet .......................................... Rice Glue ........................................................... Ring Stitch .......................................................... Running Stitch ................................................... Satin Stitch ......................................................... Seaming ............................................................. Sky Stitch .......................................................... Spiral Stitch ....................................................... Split Stitch .......................................................... Stitch and Cuts ................................................. Stretch Stitch ...................................................... Symbols ............................................................. Solid Padding Symbol .................................. Area of Change Symbol ............................... Jagged Lines ............................................... Arrows ......................................................... Dotted Area ................................................. Fraction ........................................................ Thread - Special Notes ...................................... To Polish 3/4 Pull ......................................... 1/4 Pull ......................................................... Thread Blending .................................... Tips for Stitching with 1/4 Pull ................ Metallic Threads ........................................... 132 132 133 134 134 135 137 137 138 139 140 141 142 142 143 144 145 146 146 147 147 147 148 148 148 148 149 149 149 150 Pine Needle Clusters .................................... Method 1 - formal ................................ Method 2 - Informal ................................ Single Pine Needles .................................... Popcorn Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch - Wet .......................................... Rice Glue ........................................................... Ring Stitch .......................................................... Running Stitch ................................................... Satin Stitch ......................................................... Seaming ............................................................. Sky Stitch .......................................................... Spiral Stitch ....................................................... Split Stitch .......................................................... Stitch and Cuts ................................................. Stretch Stitch ...................................................... Symbols ............................................................. Solid Padding Symbol .................................. Area of Change Symbol ............................... Jagged Lines ............................................... Arrows ......................................................... Dotted Area ................................................. Fraction ........................................................ Thread - Special Notes ...................................... To Polish 3/4 Pull ......................................... 1/4 Pull ......................................................... Thread Blending .................................... Tips for Stitching with 1/4 Pull ................ Metallic Threads ........................................... 132 132 133 134 134 135 137 137 138 139 140 141 142 142 143 144 145 146 146 147 147 147 148 148 148 148 149 149 149 150 Pine Needle Clusters .................................... Method 1 - formal ................................ Method 2 - Informal ................................ Single Pine Needles .................................... Popcorn Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch .................................................... Reverse Stitch - Wet .......................................... Rice Glue ........................................................... Ring Stitch .......................................................... Running Stitch ................................................... Satin Stitch ......................................................... Seaming ............................................................. Sky Stitch .......................................................... Spiral Stitch ....................................................... Split Stitch .......................................................... Stitch and Cuts ................................................. Stretch Stitch ...................................................... Symbols ............................................................. Solid Padding Symbol .................................. Area of Change Symbol ............................... Jagged Lines ............................................... Arrows ......................................................... Dotted Area ................................................. Fraction ........................................................ Thread - Special Notes ...................................... To Polish 3/4 Pull ......................................... 1/4 Pull ......................................................... Thread Blending .................................... Tips for Stitching with 1/4 Pull ................ Metallic Threads ........................................... 132 132 133 134 134 135 137 137 138 139 140 141 142 142 143 144 145 146 146 147 147 147 148 148 148 148 149 149 149 150 Threading The Needle With Whole Thread .. Tiger, Body ......................................................... Tiger, Claws and Teeth ....................................... Tiger, Eyes ......................................................... Tiger, Stitch Order .............................................. Tiger, Whiskers .................................................. Trees, Bamboo .................................................. Trees, Birch ........................................................ Trees, Evergreen, Distant .................................. Trees, Evergreen, Large .................................... Trees, Evergreen, Layered ................................. Trees, Evergreen, Small .................................... Trees, Old Pine .................................................. Trees, Vertical Trunks ......................................... Triangle Stitch ..................................................... Twisted Dot ........................................................ Twisted Picot ..................................................... Waterfalls .......................................................... Weaving ............................................................. Wedge Stitching ................................................ For irregular Shaped Areas ........................ Wedging for Change in Stitch Direction ....... Zig Zag Stitch ..................................................... 151 152 153 154 154 155 160 162 163 165 166 167 169 170 171 172 173 174 177 180 181 182 183 Threading The Needle With Whole Thread .. Tiger, Body ......................................................... Tiger, Claws and Teeth ....................................... Tiger, Eyes ......................................................... Tiger, Stitch Order .............................................. Tiger, Whiskers .................................................. Trees, Bamboo .................................................. Trees, Birch ........................................................ Trees, Evergreen, Distant .................................. Trees, Evergreen, Large .................................... Trees, Evergreen, Layered ................................. Trees, Evergreen, Small .................................... Trees, Old Pine .................................................. Trees, Vertical Trunks ......................................... Triangle Stitch ..................................................... Twisted Dot ........................................................ Twisted Picot ..................................................... Waterfalls .......................................................... Weaving ............................................................. Wedge Stitching ................................................ For irregular Shaped Areas ........................ Wedging for Change in Stitch Direction ....... Zig Zag Stitch ..................................................... 151 152 153 154 154 155 160 162 163 165 166 167 169 170 171 172 173 174 177 180 181 182 183 Threading The Needle With Whole Thread .. Tiger, Body ......................................................... Tiger, Claws and Teeth ....................................... Tiger, Eyes ......................................................... Tiger, Stitch Order .............................................. Tiger, Whiskers .................................................. Trees, Bamboo .................................................. Trees, Birch ........................................................ Trees, Evergreen, Distant .................................. Trees, Evergreen, Large .................................... Trees, Evergreen, Layered ................................. Trees, Evergreen, Small .................................... Trees, Old Pine .................................................. Trees, Vertical Trunks ......................................... Triangle Stitch ..................................................... Twisted Dot ........................................................ Twisted Picot ..................................................... Waterfalls .......................................................... Weaving ............................................................. Wedge Stitching ................................................ For irregular Shaped Areas ........................ Wedging for Change in Stitch Direction ....... Zig Zag Stitch ..................................................... 151 152 153 154 154 155 160 162 163 165 166 167 169 170 171 172 173 174 177 180 181 182 183 Threading The Needle With Whole Thread .. Tiger, Body ......................................................... Tiger, Claws and Teeth ....................................... Tiger, Eyes ......................................................... Tiger, Stitch Order .............................................. Tiger, Whiskers .................................................. Trees, Bamboo .................................................. Trees, Birch ........................................................ Trees, Evergreen, Distant .................................. Trees, Evergreen, Large .................................... Trees, Evergreen, Layered ................................. Trees, Evergreen, Small .................................... Trees, Old Pine .................................................. Trees, Vertical Trunks ......................................... Triangle Stitch ..................................................... Twisted Dot ........................................................ Twisted Picot ..................................................... Waterfalls .......................................................... Weaving ............................................................. Wedge Stitching ................................................ For irregular Shaped Areas ........................ Wedging for Change in Stitch Direction ....... Zig Zag Stitch ..................................................... 151 152 153 154 154 155 160 162 163 165 166 167 169 170 171 172 173 174 177 180 181 182 183 ANGORA STITCH ANGORA STITCH Decorative Stitch - thread must be prepared before stitching, to a soft frayed appearance, resembling short hair or fur. Decorative Stitch - thread must be prepared before stitching, to a soft frayed appearance, resembling short hair or fur. APPLICATION APPLICATION Winter fur muff, a Gentleman's beard, a Persian Lamb Fur effect, Coat or Hat. Winter fur muff, a Gentleman's beard, a Persian Lamb Fur effect, Coat or Hat. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE - - - pull your thread to a 1/4 Thread Pull. using a Serrated steak knife or scissors, slide your pulled thread gently between the blade of the knife and your thumb. stitch with this frayed soft thread in short Loop stitches. (See Stretch Stitch, page 124) Angora stitch length should be 1/8" or even less. - 40 pull your thread to a 1/4 Thread Pull. using a Serrated steak knife or scissors, slide your pulled thread gently between the blade of the knife and your thumb. stitch with this frayed soft thread in short Loop stitches. (See Stretch Stitch, page 124) Angora stitch length should be 1/8" or even less. 40 ANGORA STITCH ANGORA STITCH Decorative Stitch - thread must be prepared before stitching, to a soft frayed appearance, resembling short hair or fur. Decorative Stitch - thread must be prepared before stitching, to a soft frayed appearance, resembling short hair or fur. APPLICATION APPLICATION Winter fur muff, a Gentleman's beard, a Persian Lamb Fur effect, Coat or Hat. Winter fur muff, a Gentleman's beard, a Persian Lamb Fur effect, Coat or Hat. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE - - - pull your thread to a 1/4 Thread Pull. using a Serrated steak knife or scissors, slide your pulled thread gently between the blade of the knife and your thumb. stitch with this frayed soft thread in short Loop stitches. (See Stretch Stitch, page 124) Angora stitch length should be 1/8" or even less. 40 - pull your thread to a 1/4 Thread Pull. using a Serrated steak knife or scissors, slide your pulled thread gently between the blade of the knife and your thumb. stitch with this frayed soft thread in short Loop stitches. (See Stretch Stitch, page 124) Angora stitch length should be 1/8" or even less. 40 BACK TRACKING BACK TRACKING Technique used to secure the beginning and ending of Fluffy Stitch. For detailed instruction, please refer to Fluffy Stitch, How to Start and Stop. Technique used to secure the beginning and ending of Fluffy Stitch. For detailed instruction, please refer to Fluffy Stitch, How to Start and Stop. BASE STITCHING BASE STITCHING Is a layer of flat stitching that is over-stitched with another technique or colour. Some stitches which require this base layer are Overlay Stitch, Multicolour Padding, Hair stitching. Is a layer of flat stitching that is over-stitched with another technique or colour. Some stitches which require this base layer are Overlay Stitch, Multicolour Padding, Hair stitching. BIRDS, BEAK & CLAWS BIRDS, BEAK & CLAWS SMALL BIRDS these parts can be completed with 2/4 pull thread. Line Pad the edges; Solid Padding can also be applied to build up the top half. Fill in the area with angle stitching. A line of Running Stitch up the center will distinguish the upper and lower half of the beak. SMALL BIRDS these parts can be completed with 2/4 pull thread. Line Pad the edges; Solid Padding can also be applied to build up the top half. Fill in the area with angle stitching. A line of Running Stitch up the center will distinguish the upper and lower half of the beak. 41 41 BACK TRACKING BACK TRACKING Technique used to secure the beginning and ending of Fluffy Stitch. For detailed instruction, please refer to Fluffy Stitch, How to Start and Stop. Technique used to secure the beginning and ending of Fluffy Stitch. For detailed instruction, please refer to Fluffy Stitch, How to Start and Stop. BASE STITCHING BASE STITCHING Is a layer of flat stitching that is over-stitched with another technique or colour. Some stitches which require this base layer are Overlay Stitch, Multicolour Padding, Hair stitching. Is a layer of flat stitching that is over-stitched with another technique or colour. Some stitches which require this base layer are Overlay Stitch, Multicolour Padding, Hair stitching. BIRDS, BEAK & CLAWS BIRDS, BEAK & CLAWS SMALL BIRDS these parts can be completed with 2/4 pull thread. Line Pad the edges; Solid Padding can also be applied to build up the top half. Fill in the area with angle stitching. A line of Running Stitch up the center will distinguish the upper and lower half of the beak. SMALL BIRDS these parts can be completed with 2/4 pull thread. Line Pad the edges; Solid Padding can also be applied to build up the top half. Fill in the area with angle stitching. A line of Running Stitch up the center will distinguish the upper and lower half of the beak. 41 41 MEDIUM -LARGE BIRDS The beak & claws on medium to large-sized birds, requires 3/4 polished thread stitched on top of a padding layer. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished) MEDIUM -LARGE BIRDS The beak & claws on medium to large-sized birds, requires 3/4 polished thread stitched on top of a padding layer. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished) NOSTRIL NOSTRIL If there is a nostril, in order to make it look like an opening, it must be stitched first with small stitches tight to the surface of the canvas. If there is a nostril, in order to make it look like an opening, it must be stitched first with small stitches tight to the surface of the canvas. CLAWS AND ONE COLOURED, ONE PART BEAKS CLAWS AND ONE COLOURED, ONE PART BEAKS ! Pad the entire claw area with 2/4 thread horizontally from the tip to the base. ! Pad the entire claw area with 2/4 thread horizontally from the tip to the base. ! Satin Stitch over the padding with 3/4 polished thread ending (or starting) the tip with one thread width to make a sharp point. ! Satin Stitch over the padding with 3/4 polished thread ending (or starting) the tip with one thread width to make a sharp point. TWO COLOURED BEAKS, TWO PART BEAKS TWO COLOURED BEAKS, TWO PART BEAKS Some beaks require 2 shades of 3/4 polished thread, blended together. These beaks are usually quite large and require some additional padding. Some beaks require 2 shades of 3/4 polished thread, blended together. These beaks are usually quite large and require some additional padding. 42 42 MEDIUM -LARGE BIRDS The beak & claws on medium to large-sized birds, requires 3/4 polished thread stitched on top of a padding layer. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished) MEDIUM -LARGE BIRDS The beak & claws on medium to large-sized birds, requires 3/4 polished thread stitched on top of a padding layer. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished) NOSTRIL NOSTRIL If there is a nostril, in order to make it look like an opening, it must be stitched first with small stitches tight to the surface of the canvas. If there is a nostril, in order to make it look like an opening, it must be stitched first with small stitches tight to the surface of the canvas. CLAWS AND ONE COLOURED, ONE PART BEAKS CLAWS AND ONE COLOURED, ONE PART BEAKS ! Pad the entire claw area with 2/4 thread horizontally from the tip to the base. ! Pad the entire claw area with 2/4 thread horizontally from the tip to the base. ! Satin Stitch over the padding with 3/4 polished thread ending (or starting) the tip with one thread width to make a sharp point. ! Satin Stitch over the padding with 3/4 polished thread ending (or starting) the tip with one thread width to make a sharp point. TWO COLOURED BEAKS, TWO PART BEAKS TWO COLOURED BEAKS, TWO PART BEAKS Some beaks require 2 shades of 3/4 polished thread, blended together. These beaks are usually quite large and require some additional padding. Some beaks require 2 shades of 3/4 polished thread, blended together. These beaks are usually quite large and require some additional padding. 42 42 LOWER HALF OF BEAK LOWER HALF OF BEAK ! Line pad along bottom edge. ! Line pad along bottom edge. ! With 3/4 Polished thread, fill in with Satin Stitch on an angle. ! With 3/4 Polished thread, fill in with Satin Stitch on an angle. Upper Half of Beak ! Upper Half of Beak First pad the small area along the arch of the beak. ! First pad the small area along the arch of the beak. ! Line Pad and fill in the entire beak with horizontal stitches from the tip to the base. ! Line Pad and fill in the entire beak with horizontal stitches from the tip to the base. ! Stitch the bottom half with 3/4 Polished Thread using long and short stitches. ! Stitch the bottom half with 3/4 Polished Thread using long and short stitches. ! Because 3/4 Polished Thread is difficult to blend, use Stitch & Cuts and/or Pine Needle Stitches to blend the second colour into the first. ! Because 3/4 Polished Thread is difficult to blend, use Stitch & Cuts and/or Pine Needle Stitches to blend the second colour into the first. 43 43 LOWER HALF OF BEAK LOWER HALF OF BEAK ! Line pad along bottom edge. ! Line pad along bottom edge. ! With 3/4 Polished thread, fill in with Satin Stitch on an angle. ! With 3/4 Polished thread, fill in with Satin Stitch on an angle. Upper Half of Beak ! Upper Half of Beak First pad the small area along the arch of the beak. ! First pad the small area along the arch of the beak. ! Line Pad and fill in the entire beak with horizontal stitches from the tip to the base. ! Line Pad and fill in the entire beak with horizontal stitches from the tip to the base. ! Stitch the bottom half with 3/4 Polished Thread using long and short stitches. ! Stitch the bottom half with 3/4 Polished Thread using long and short stitches. ! Because 3/4 Polished Thread is difficult to blend, use Stitch & Cuts and/or Pine Needle Stitches to blend the second colour into the first. ! Because 3/4 Polished Thread is difficult to blend, use Stitch & Cuts and/or Pine Needle Stitches to blend the second colour into the first. 43 43 BIRDS, BREAST BIRDS, BREAST The stitch direction for a bird's breast is very important. It should curve naturally with the flow of the body. Solid Cord Stitch is an excellent stitch to use to achieve this direction and to create the natural fullness. The stitch direction for a bird's breast is very important. It should curve naturally with the flow of the body. Solid Cord Stitch is an excellent stitch to use to achieve this direction and to create the natural fullness. ! ! Begin at the bottom of the breast, leaving long & short stitches on the blending side. Continue to work Solid Cord in the second area. Extra care in blending will help to avoid bands of colour. When blending Solid Cord, a few of the stitches should extend very deep or 'tossed' into the previous colour. ! ! Begin at the bottom of the breast, leaving long & short stitches on the blending side. Continue to work Solid Cord in the second area. Extra care in blending will help to avoid bands of colour. When blending Solid Cord, a few of the stitches should extend very deep or 'tossed' into the previous colour. BIRDS, EYES BIRDS, EYES Two methods for completing a bird's eye: Two methods for completing a bird's eye: a) Stitched eye a) Stitched eye 44 44 BIRDS, BREAST BIRDS, BREAST The stitch direction for a bird's breast is very important. It should curve naturally with the flow of the body. Solid Cord Stitch is an excellent stitch to use to achieve this direction and to create the natural fullness. The stitch direction for a bird's breast is very important. It should curve naturally with the flow of the body. Solid Cord Stitch is an excellent stitch to use to achieve this direction and to create the natural fullness. ! ! Begin at the bottom of the breast, leaving long & short stitches on the blending side. Continue to work Solid Cord in the second area. Extra care in blending will help to avoid bands of colour. When blending Solid Cord, a few of the stitches should extend very deep or 'tossed' into the previous colour. ! ! Begin at the bottom of the breast, leaving long & short stitches on the blending side. Continue to work Solid Cord in the second area. Extra care in blending will help to avoid bands of colour. When blending Solid Cord, a few of the stitches should extend very deep or 'tossed' into the previous colour. BIRDS, EYES BIRDS, EYES Two methods for completing a bird's eye: Two methods for completing a bird's eye: a) Stitched eye a) Stitched eye 44 44 ! Work a row of Running Stitch around the perimeter of the eye first to mark the exact shape. ! Work a row of Running Stitch around the perimeter of the eye first to mark the exact shape. ! Complete all the stitching around the eye up to the outline. ! Complete all the stitching around the eye up to the outline. ! Follow the coloured insert for exact colour placement and technique. ! Follow the coloured insert for exact colour placement and technique. ! If there is a Highlight, use either a Clip Stitch or a Reverse Stitch. ! If there is a Highlight, use either a Clip Stitch or a Reverse Stitch. b) Gold Ribbon Eye ! b) Gold Ribbon Eye Use the same technique as described in the Tiger Eye section. You will not require all three layers of padding under the gold ribbon since a bird's eye is much smaller than a tiger's eye. ! Use the same technique as described in the Tiger Eye section. You will not require all three layers of padding under the gold ribbon since a bird's eye is much smaller than a tiger's eye. BIRDS, FEATHERS BIRDS, FEATHERS Feathers must be stitched in the order that they naturally overlap, i.e. outside feathers first. Feathers must be stitched in the order that they naturally overlap, i.e. outside feathers first. It is important that each feather is clearly distinguishable by using line padding, solid padding or double stitching techniques. It is important that each feather is clearly distinguishable by using line padding, solid padding or double stitching techniques. There are a number of important factors to keep in mind when stitching feathers: There are a number of important factors to keep in mind when stitching feathers: 45 45 ! Work a row of Running Stitch around the perimeter of the eye first to mark the exact shape. ! Work a row of Running Stitch around the perimeter of the eye first to mark the exact shape. ! Complete all the stitching around the eye up to the outline. ! Complete all the stitching around the eye up to the outline. ! Follow the coloured insert for exact colour placement and technique. ! Follow the coloured insert for exact colour placement and technique. ! If there is a Highlight, use either a Clip Stitch or a Reverse Stitch. ! If there is a Highlight, use either a Clip Stitch or a Reverse Stitch. b) Gold Ribbon Eye ! b) Gold Ribbon Eye Use the same technique as described in the Tiger Eye section. You will not require all three layers of padding under the gold ribbon since a bird's eye is much smaller than a tiger's eye. ! Use the same technique as described in the Tiger Eye section. You will not require all three layers of padding under the gold ribbon since a bird's eye is much smaller than a tiger's eye. BIRDS, FEATHERS BIRDS, FEATHERS Feathers must be stitched in the order that they naturally overlap, i.e. outside feathers first. Feathers must be stitched in the order that they naturally overlap, i.e. outside feathers first. It is important that each feather is clearly distinguishable by using line padding, solid padding or double stitching techniques. It is important that each feather is clearly distinguishable by using line padding, solid padding or double stitching techniques. There are a number of important factors to keep in mind when stitching feathers: There are a number of important factors to keep in mind when stitching feathers: 45 45 1 Stitch order 1 Stitch order 2 Always place at least 1 row of line padding around each feather. Apply additional padding techniques as required. 2 Always place at least 1 row of line padding around each feather. Apply additional padding techniques as required. 3 Never use the kit thread for padding (especially with Matsuhato pictures). 3 Never use the kit thread for padding (especially with Matsuhato pictures). WINDOW FEATHERS WINDOW FEATHERS Some large feathers have boxes or 'windows' along the center vein. Some large feathers have boxes or 'windows' along the center vein. ! The stitch direction for the boxes and the body of the feather is on an angle to the center vein. ! The stitch direction for the boxes and the body of the feather is on an angle to the center vein. ! The windows are stitched first -important to keep the shape clearly defined. ! The windows are stitched first -important to keep the shape clearly defined. ! Line pad around the perimeter of the whole feather. ! Line pad around the perimeter of the whole feather. ! Complete the body of the feather - do not blend into the windows. ! Complete the body of the feather - do not blend into the windows. BIRDS LEGS BIRDS LEGS The legs of small birds can be completed with rows of Running Stitch or Satin Stitch. Legs of larger birds (eagles, cranes) require more attention to detail. The legs of small birds can be completed with rows of Running Stitch or Satin Stitch. Legs of larger birds (eagles, cranes) require more attention to detail. 46 46 1 Stitch order 1 Stitch order 2 Always place at least 1 row of line padding around each feather. Apply additional padding techniques as required. 2 Always place at least 1 row of line padding around each feather. Apply additional padding techniques as required. 3 Never use the kit thread for padding (especially with Matsuhato pictures). 3 Never use the kit thread for padding (especially with Matsuhato pictures). WINDOW FEATHERS WINDOW FEATHERS Some large feathers have boxes or 'windows' along the center vein. Some large feathers have boxes or 'windows' along the center vein. ! The stitch direction for the boxes and the body of the feather is on an angle to the center vein. ! The stitch direction for the boxes and the body of the feather is on an angle to the center vein. ! The windows are stitched first -important to keep the shape clearly defined. ! The windows are stitched first -important to keep the shape clearly defined. ! Line pad around the perimeter of the whole feather. ! Line pad around the perimeter of the whole feather. ! Complete the body of the feather - do not blend into the windows. ! Complete the body of the feather - do not blend into the windows. BIRDS LEGS BIRDS LEGS The legs of small birds can be completed with rows of Running Stitch or Satin Stitch. Legs of larger birds (eagles, cranes) require more attention to detail. The legs of small birds can be completed with rows of Running Stitch or Satin Stitch. Legs of larger birds (eagles, cranes) require more attention to detail. 46 46 LARGE LEGS ! The floppy skin area should be completed first. Line pad along the bottom edge and fill in on an angle with Satin Stitch. ! Pad the entire leg and each toe. If the upper leg had a dividing line running down the center, stitch this line with a different colour of thread. This is to ensure that the exact location of the line is not lost when working the top layer. LARGE LEGS Leg ! The floppy skin area should be completed first. Line pad along the bottom edge and fill in on an angle with Satin Stitch. ! Pad the entire leg and each toe. If the upper leg had a dividing line running down the center, stitch this line with a different colour of thread. This is to ensure that the exact location of the line is not lost when working the top layer. Toe Leg Toe ! Using 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, stitch over the padding with single length stitches in a horizontal direction. Use Seaming technique into the line running up the middle of the leg. ! Using 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, stitch over the padding with single length stitches in a horizontal direction. Use Seaming technique into the line running up the middle of the leg. ! Use 3/4 Polished Thread for the detail lines running across the toes and leg. Some crane's legs have French Knots added using whole and 3/4 pull thread. Refer to insert. ! Use 3/4 Polished Thread for the detail lines running across the toes and leg. Some crane's legs have French Knots added using whole and 3/4 pull thread. Refer to insert. ! To complete the toenails, please refer to the section Birds, Beaks and Claws. ! To complete the toenails, please refer to the section Birds, Beaks and Claws. 47 LARGE LEGS ! The floppy skin area should be completed first. Line pad along the bottom edge and fill in on an angle with Satin Stitch. ! Pad the entire leg and each toe. If the upper leg had a dividing line running down the center, stitch this line with a different colour of thread. This is to ensure that the exact location of the line is not lost when working the top layer. 47 LARGE LEGS Leg ! The floppy skin area should be completed first. Line pad along the bottom edge and fill in on an angle with Satin Stitch. ! Pad the entire leg and each toe. If the upper leg had a dividing line running down the center, stitch this line with a different colour of thread. This is to ensure that the exact location of the line is not lost when working the top layer. Toe Leg Toe ! Using 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, stitch over the padding with single length stitches in a horizontal direction. Use Seaming technique into the line running up the middle of the leg. ! Using 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, stitch over the padding with single length stitches in a horizontal direction. Use Seaming technique into the line running up the middle of the leg. ! Use 3/4 Polished Thread for the detail lines running across the toes and leg. Some crane's legs have French Knots added using whole and 3/4 pull thread. Refer to insert. ! Use 3/4 Polished Thread for the detail lines running across the toes and leg. Some crane's legs have French Knots added using whole and 3/4 pull thread. Refer to insert. ! To complete the toenails, please refer to the section Birds, Beaks and Claws. 47 ! To complete the toenails, please refer to the section Birds, Beaks and Claws. 47 BIRDS, STITCH ORDER BIRDS, STITCH ORDER It is very important that the proper stitch order is followed so that each area is clearly distinguishable. It is very important that the proper stitch order is followed so that each area is clearly distinguishable. The legs are usually completed first because they are under the feathers. The legs are usually completed first because they are under the feathers. General rule of thumb for all birds, is to work from the tail feathers up to the head. In this way, each feather will overlap the previous ones. When stitching a wing, start with the outermost feathers and work in towards the body General rule of thumb for all birds, is to work from the tail feathers up to the head. In this way, each feather will overlap the previous ones. When stitching a wing, start with the outermost feathers and work in towards the body BLANKET EDGE STITCH BLANKET EDGE STITCH It is used to decorate the edge of the opening on the Secondary Canvas of a Double Canvas picture using 3/4 pull thread and a regular bunka needle. This stitch requires some practice and patience to achieve the desired results and is a technique that should be learned from a qualified instructor. Refer to Double Canvas for details on preparing the secondary canvas. See also Double Canvas. It is used to decorate the edge of the opening on the Secondary Canvas of a Double Canvas picture using 3/4 pull thread and a regular bunka needle. This stitch requires some practice and patience to achieve the desired results and is a technique that should be learned from a qualified instructor. Refer to Double Canvas for details on preparing the secondary canvas. See also Double Canvas. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Thread 3/4 polished thread in flat needle. ! 48 Thread 3/4 polished thread in flat needle. 48 BIRDS, STITCH ORDER BIRDS, STITCH ORDER It is very important that the proper stitch order is followed so that each area is clearly distinguishable. It is very important that the proper stitch order is followed so that each area is clearly distinguishable. The legs are usually completed first because they are under the feathers. The legs are usually completed first because they are under the feathers. General rule of thumb for all birds, is to work from the tail feathers up to the head. In this way, each feather will overlap the previous ones. When stitching a wing, start with the outermost feathers and work in towards the body General rule of thumb for all birds, is to work from the tail feathers up to the head. In this way, each feather will overlap the previous ones. When stitching a wing, start with the outermost feathers and work in towards the body BLANKET EDGE STITCH BLANKET EDGE STITCH It is used to decorate the edge of the opening on the Secondary Canvas of a Double Canvas picture using 3/4 pull thread and a regular bunka needle. This stitch requires some practice and patience to achieve the desired results and is a technique that should be learned from a qualified instructor. Refer to Double Canvas for details on preparing the secondary canvas. See also Double Canvas. It is used to decorate the edge of the opening on the Secondary Canvas of a Double Canvas picture using 3/4 pull thread and a regular bunka needle. This stitch requires some practice and patience to achieve the desired results and is a technique that should be learned from a qualified instructor. Refer to Double Canvas for details on preparing the secondary canvas. See also Double Canvas. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Thread 3/4 polished thread in flat needle. 48 ! Thread 3/4 polished thread in flat needle. 48 ! Punch in 1/2" out from the glued and basted edge of the opening. ! Punch in 1/2" out from the glued and basted edge of the opening. ! Pull tail of excess thread to the back of canvas. ! Pull tail of excess thread to the back of canvas. ! Take one small stitch (approx. 1mm) to the side (anchor stitch). ! Take one small stitch (approx. 1mm) to the side (anchor stitch). ! With your 'non-stitching' hand under the canvas, grab the loop and pull through some excess thread - approx. 1-1.5". ! With your 'non-stitching' hand under the canvas, grab the loop and pull through some excess thread - approx. 1-1.5". ! ** Pull this loop up through the opening and over the edge. ! ** Pull this loop up through the opening and over the edge. ! Adjust the length of the loop by pulling the needle until it is the desired length. ! Adjust the length of the loop by pulling the needle until it is the desired length. ! Hold the loop flat to the canvas by pressing on it with the fingers of the left hand. ! Hold the loop flat to the canvas by pressing on it with the fingers of the left hand. 49 49 ! Punch in 1/2" out from the glued and basted edge of the opening. ! Punch in 1/2" out from the glued and basted edge of the opening. ! Pull tail of excess thread to the back of canvas. ! Pull tail of excess thread to the back of canvas. ! Take one small stitch (approx. 1mm) to the side (anchor stitch). ! Take one small stitch (approx. 1mm) to the side (anchor stitch). ! With your 'non-stitching' hand under the canvas, grab the loop and pull through some excess thread - approx. 1-1.5". ! With your 'non-stitching' hand under the canvas, grab the loop and pull through some excess thread - approx. 1-1.5". ! ** Pull this loop up through the opening and over the edge. ! ** Pull this loop up through the opening and over the edge. ! Adjust the length of the loop by pulling the needle until it is the desired length. ! Adjust the length of the loop by pulling the needle until it is the desired length. ! Hold the loop flat to the canvas by pressing on it with the fingers of the left hand. ! Hold the loop flat to the canvas by pressing on it with the fingers of the left hand. 49 49 ! Bring the needle over the loop and punch directly under the loop (Couching Stitch). DO NOT WITHDRAW THE NEEDLE.** ! Bring the needle over the loop and punch directly under the loop (Couching Stitch). DO NOT WITHDRAW THE NEEDLE.** ! Reach through the canvas; grab and pull the next loop off the needle. Repeat from ** to**. ! Reach through the canvas; grab and pull the next loop off the needle. Repeat from ** to**. ! Continue all around the oval opening. ! Continue all around the oval opening. ! To end - on the last Couching Stitch, hold the loop, lift out the needle, cut the thread and pull to the back of the canvas. ! To end - on the last Couching Stitch, hold the loop, lift out the needle, cut the thread and pull to the back of the canvas. CREATING A PATTERN CREATING A PATTERN By experimenting with the length of the loop and repeating the pattern of the stitches, you can create some lovely designs. By experimenting with the length of the loop and repeating the pattern of the stitches, you can create some lovely designs. 50 50 ! Bring the needle over the loop and punch directly under the loop (Couching Stitch). DO NOT WITHDRAW THE NEEDLE.** ! Bring the needle over the loop and punch directly under the loop (Couching Stitch). DO NOT WITHDRAW THE NEEDLE.** ! Reach through the canvas; grab and pull the next loop off the needle. Repeat from ** to**. ! Reach through the canvas; grab and pull the next loop off the needle. Repeat from ** to**. ! Continue all around the oval opening. ! Continue all around the oval opening. ! To end - on the last Couching Stitch, hold the loop, lift out the needle, cut the thread and pull to the back of the canvas. ! To end - on the last Couching Stitch, hold the loop, lift out the needle, cut the thread and pull to the back of the canvas. CREATING A PATTERN CREATING A PATTERN By experimenting with the length of the loop and repeating the pattern of the stitches, you can create some lovely designs. By experimenting with the length of the loop and repeating the pattern of the stitches, you can create some lovely designs. 50 50 BLENDING BLENDING Blending is an extremely important aspect of Japanese embroidery. Simply in methodology, it is a technique that requires much practice to achieve a smooth, natural-looking change from one shade to the next. Blending is an extremely important aspect of Japanese embroidery. Simply in methodology, it is a technique that requires much practice to achieve a smooth, natural-looking change from one shade to the next. Various symbols or markings on the canvas are used to indicate which technique to use (see Symbols). Two symbols which are used to indicate blending are: Various symbols or markings on the canvas are used to indicate which technique to use (see Symbols). Two symbols which are used to indicate blending are: Row Blending Stitch Blending Row Blending Stitch Blending The blending lines on the canvas tells the stitcher 2 things: The blending lines on the canvas tells the stitcher 2 things: 1. Blend the colours together, and 1. Blend the colours together, and 2. Stitch direction - stitches are worked in the direction of the points or lines. 2. Stitch direction - stitches are worked in the direction of the points or lines. APPLICATION APPLICATION All areas of Bunka Shishu embroidery. All areas of Bunka Shishu embroidery. 51 51 BLENDING BLENDING Blending is an extremely important aspect of Japanese embroidery. Simply in methodology, it is a technique that requires much practice to achieve a smooth, natural-looking change from one shade to the next. Blending is an extremely important aspect of Japanese embroidery. Simply in methodology, it is a technique that requires much practice to achieve a smooth, natural-looking change from one shade to the next. Various symbols or markings on the canvas are used to indicate which technique to use (see Symbols). Two symbols which are used to indicate blending are: Various symbols or markings on the canvas are used to indicate which technique to use (see Symbols). Two symbols which are used to indicate blending are: Row Blending Stitch Blending Row Blending Stitch Blending The blending lines on the canvas tells the stitcher 2 things: The blending lines on the canvas tells the stitcher 2 things: 1. Blend the colours together, and 1. Blend the colours together, and 2. Stitch direction - stitches are worked in the direction of the points or lines. 2. Stitch direction - stitches are worked in the direction of the points or lines. APPLICATION APPLICATION All areas of Bunka Shishu embroidery. All areas of Bunka Shishu embroidery. 51 51 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Blending is a combination of long and short stitches or rows combining two areas of colour. The line of demarcation between the two areas of colour should be very irregular to create a smooth gradual change in shading. Blending is a combination of long and short stitches or rows combining two areas of colour. The line of demarcation between the two areas of colour should be very irregular to create a smooth gradual change in shading. If this area is not irregular, an unnatural striped effect is created which should be avoided. If this area is not irregular, an unnatural striped effect is created which should be avoided. STITCH BLENDING STITCH BLENDING Stitch Blending areas are marked with extremely pointed, zig zag lines. Stitch Blending areas are marked with extremely pointed, zig zag lines. The direction of the stitches should be worked in the direction of the points. However, this marking is only a guide to the area for blending and does not have to be followed exactly. The direction of the stitches should be worked in the direction of the points. However, this marking is only a guide to the area for blending and does not have to be followed exactly. 52 52 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Blending is a combination of long and short stitches or rows combining two areas of colour. The line of demarcation between the two areas of colour should be very irregular to create a smooth gradual change in shading. Blending is a combination of long and short stitches or rows combining two areas of colour. The line of demarcation between the two areas of colour should be very irregular to create a smooth gradual change in shading. If this area is not irregular, an unnatural striped effect is created which should be avoided. If this area is not irregular, an unnatural striped effect is created which should be avoided. STITCH BLENDING STITCH BLENDING Stitch Blending areas are marked with extremely pointed, zig zag lines. Stitch Blending areas are marked with extremely pointed, zig zag lines. The direction of the stitches should be worked in the direction of the points. However, this marking is only a guide to the area for blending and does not have to be followed exactly. The direction of the stitches should be worked in the direction of the points. However, this marking is only a guide to the area for blending and does not have to be followed exactly. 52 52 The stitches should still be staggered in 1/2" intervals. In areas smaller than 1/2", single length stitches are used. The stitches should still be staggered in 1/2" intervals. In areas smaller than 1/2", single length stitches are used. Every so often the thread should be extended quite far into the stitching above and/or below and then cut. This single thickness of thread running into another colour will create a very fine merging of the two colours. Every so often the thread should be extended quite far into the stitching above and/or below and then cut. This single thickness of thread running into another colour will create a very fine merging of the two colours. ROW BLENDING ROW BLENDING Colour changes in Flat Stitch areas (such as sky or water) are indicated by groups of horizontal dash lines. These lines are called the 'Area of Change'. A soft transition from one colour to another is developed within this area. Colour changes in Flat Stitch areas (such as sky or water) are indicated by groups of horizontal dash lines. These lines are called the 'Area of Change'. A soft transition from one colour to another is developed within this area. ! Complete the top area (A) with flat stitching down to the first set of lines in the Area of Change. ! Complete the top area (A) with flat stitching down to the first set of lines in the Area of Change. 53 53 The stitches should still be staggered in 1/2" intervals. In areas smaller than 1/2", single length stitches are used. The stitches should still be staggered in 1/2" intervals. In areas smaller than 1/2", single length stitches are used. Every so often the thread should be extended quite far into the stitching above and/or below and then cut. This single thickness of thread running into another colour will create a very fine merging of the two colours. Every so often the thread should be extended quite far into the stitching above and/or below and then cut. This single thickness of thread running into another colour will create a very fine merging of the two colours. ROW BLENDING ROW BLENDING Colour changes in Flat Stitch areas (such as sky or water) are indicated by groups of horizontal dash lines. These lines are called the 'Area of Change'. A soft transition from one colour to another is developed within this area. Colour changes in Flat Stitch areas (such as sky or water) are indicated by groups of horizontal dash lines. These lines are called the 'Area of Change'. A soft transition from one colour to another is developed within this area. ! Complete the top area (A) with flat stitching down to the first set of lines in the Area of Change. ! 53 Complete the top area (A) with flat stitching down to the first set of lines in the Area of Change. 53 ! Begin shortening the length of the rows, working down to the last set of lines in the Area of Change. Vary the length of each row. ! Begin shortening the length of the rows, working down to the last set of lines in the Area of Change. Vary the length of each row. ! To complete the Area of Change, rows of the second colour (B) should be worked between the rows of A. To do this, keep the tip of the needle on the canvas and scratch it along through the threads of colour A, turn the needle and stitch back out. ! To complete the Area of Change, rows of the second colour (B) should be worked between the rows of A. To do this, keep the tip of the needle on the canvas and scratch it along through the threads of colour A, turn the needle and stitch back out. ! ! To soften the blending even further about every third or fourth row, run colour B very deep through colour A and end the thread. Stitch & Cuts consisting of one or two stitches will also help create a natural Area of Change; colour A into colour B; colour B into colour A. ! ! 54 To soften the blending even further about every third or fourth row, run colour B very deep through colour A and end the thread. Stitch & Cuts consisting of one or two stitches will also help create a natural Area of Change; colour A into colour B; colour B into colour A. 54 ! Begin shortening the length of the rows, working down to the last set of lines in the Area of Change. Vary the length of each row. ! Begin shortening the length of the rows, working down to the last set of lines in the Area of Change. Vary the length of each row. ! To complete the Area of Change, rows of the second colour (B) should be worked between the rows of A. To do this, keep the tip of the needle on the canvas and scratch it along through the threads of colour A, turn the needle and stitch back out. ! To complete the Area of Change, rows of the second colour (B) should be worked between the rows of A. To do this, keep the tip of the needle on the canvas and scratch it along through the threads of colour A, turn the needle and stitch back out. ! ! To soften the blending even further about every third or fourth row, run colour B very deep through colour A and end the thread. Stitch & Cuts consisting of one or two stitches will also help create a natural Area of Change; colour A into colour B; colour B into colour A. 54 ! ! To soften the blending even further about every third or fourth row, run colour B very deep through colour A and end the thread. Stitch & Cuts consisting of one or two stitches will also help create a natural Area of Change; colour A into colour B; colour B into colour A. 54 BLIZZARD STITCH BLIZZARD STITCH Blizzard stitch is an obscure mass of short stitches that is used wherever a misty or turbulent effect is desired, such as along the crest of a wave or the misty area across the base of a mountain. The coloured insert will indicate where Blizzard Stitch is to be applied but is a technique that relies on individual creativity. It is usually stitched over a layer of base stitching. Blizzard stitch is an obscure mass of short stitches that is used wherever a misty or turbulent effect is desired, such as along the crest of a wave or the misty area across the base of a mountain. The coloured insert will indicate where Blizzard Stitch is to be applied but is a technique that relies on individual creativity. It is usually stitched over a layer of base stitching. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower centers, base of waterfalls/mountains. Flower centers, base of waterfalls/mountains. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! using a maximum stitch length of 1/4" work a pattern of twisted triangles/squares as in the drawing below. ! using a maximum stitch length of 1/4" work a pattern of twisted triangles/squares as in the drawing below. CHAIN STITCH CHAIN STITCH Chain Stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. Chain Stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. 55 55 BLIZZARD STITCH BLIZZARD STITCH Blizzard stitch is an obscure mass of short stitches that is used wherever a misty or turbulent effect is desired, such as along the crest of a wave or the misty area across the base of a mountain. The coloured insert will indicate where Blizzard Stitch is to be applied but is a technique that relies on individual creativity. It is usually stitched over a layer of base stitching. Blizzard stitch is an obscure mass of short stitches that is used wherever a misty or turbulent effect is desired, such as along the crest of a wave or the misty area across the base of a mountain. The coloured insert will indicate where Blizzard Stitch is to be applied but is a technique that relies on individual creativity. It is usually stitched over a layer of base stitching. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower centers, base of waterfalls/mountains. Flower centers, base of waterfalls/mountains. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! using a maximum stitch length of 1/4" work a pattern of twisted triangles/squares as in the drawing below. ! using a maximum stitch length of 1/4" work a pattern of twisted triangles/squares as in the drawing below. CHAIN STITCH CHAIN STITCH Chain Stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. Chain Stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. 55 55 APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitch used for fancy trim to create a rope or macrame effect. Decorative stitch used for fancy trim to create a rope or macrame effect. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. Punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. Punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! Still holding the needle, pinch the loop of thread from the side of the needle with the other hand. ! Still holding the needle, pinch the loop of thread from the side of the needle with the other hand. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your left hand. Adjust the length of the loop by pulling either up or down on the thread. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your left hand. Adjust the length of the loop by pulling either up or down on the thread. ! Flatten the loop onto the canvas with your left hand. Move the needle along the back of the canvas to position the point under the tip of the flattened loop. Pull the needle down to get some extra thread to work with if more length is required. ! Flatten the loop onto the canvas with your left hand. Move the needle along the back of the canvas to position the point under the tip of the flattened loop. Pull the needle down to get some extra thread to work with if more length is required. ! Punch up inside the loop close to the tip end. ! Punch up inside the loop close to the tip end. Grab the thread from the side of the needle ! Repeat above steps until chain is desired length - loops should be the same length. Grab the thread from the side of the needle ! 56 Repeat above steps until chain is desired length - loops should be the same length. 56 APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitch used for fancy trim to create a rope or macrame effect. Decorative stitch used for fancy trim to create a rope or macrame effect. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. Punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. Punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! Still holding the needle, pinch the loop of thread from the side of the needle with the other hand. ! Still holding the needle, pinch the loop of thread from the side of the needle with the other hand. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your left hand. Adjust the length of the loop by pulling either up or down on the thread. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your left hand. Adjust the length of the loop by pulling either up or down on the thread. ! Flatten the loop onto the canvas with your left hand. Move the needle along the back of the canvas to position the point under the tip of the flattened loop. Pull the needle down to get some extra thread to work with if more length is required. ! Flatten the loop onto the canvas with your left hand. Move the needle along the back of the canvas to position the point under the tip of the flattened loop. Pull the needle down to get some extra thread to work with if more length is required. ! Punch up inside the loop close to the tip end. ! Punch up inside the loop close to the tip end. Grab the thread from the side of the needle ! Repeat above steps until chain is desired length - loops should be the same length. 56 Grab the thread from the side of the needle ! Repeat above steps until chain is desired length - loops should be the same length. 56 ! To end the chain, punch up to make one last loop; withdraw the needle, holding the loop in the other hand. ! To end the chain, punch up to make one last loop; withdraw the needle, holding the loop in the other hand. ! Cut the loop in half (one half is the end of the thread in the needle, one half is the end of the chain thread). ! Cut the loop in half (one half is the end of the thread in the needle, one half is the end of the chain thread). ! Withdraw the needle to pull out one end of the loop. ! Withdraw the needle to pull out one end of the loop. ! ! Insert a needle threader from the back of the canvas close to end of the chain stitch. Feed the end through the needle threader and pull to the back. ! ! Insert a needle threader from the back of the canvas close to end of the chain stitch. Feed the end through the needle threader and pull to the back. CLAW STITCH CLAW STITCH This stitch creates a 3-pronged effect resembling the claw print of a bird. Please refer to Leaves, Cluster to create groupings of Claw Stitch. This stitch creates a 3-pronged effect resembling the claw print of a bird. Please refer to Leaves, Cluster to create groupings of Claw Stitch. APPLICATION APPLICATION Used for triple-pointed leaves (birch trees); as a decorative stitch creates a lacy pattern. Used for triple-pointed leaves (birch trees); as a decorative stitch creates a lacy pattern. 57 57 ! To end the chain, punch up to make one last loop; withdraw the needle, holding the loop in the other hand. ! To end the chain, punch up to make one last loop; withdraw the needle, holding the loop in the other hand. ! Cut the loop in half (one half is the end of the thread in the needle, one half is the end of the chain thread). ! Cut the loop in half (one half is the end of the thread in the needle, one half is the end of the chain thread). ! Withdraw the needle to pull out one end of the loop. ! Withdraw the needle to pull out one end of the loop. ! ! Insert a needle threader from the back of the canvas close to end of the chain stitch. Feed the end through the needle threader and pull to the back. ! ! Insert a needle threader from the back of the canvas close to end of the chain stitch. Feed the end through the needle threader and pull to the back. CLAW STITCH CLAW STITCH This stitch creates a 3-pronged effect resembling the claw print of a bird. Please refer to Leaves, Cluster to create groupings of Claw Stitch. This stitch creates a 3-pronged effect resembling the claw print of a bird. Please refer to Leaves, Cluster to create groupings of Claw Stitch. APPLICATION APPLICATION Used for triple-pointed leaves (birch trees); as a decorative stitch creates a lacy pattern. Used for triple-pointed leaves (birch trees); as a decorative stitch creates a lacy pattern. 57 57 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! With 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle, punch in and pull thread to the back of the canvas. This punch mark will serve as the base point of the Claw Stitch. ! With 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle, punch in and pull thread to the back of the canvas. This punch mark will serve as the base point of the Claw Stitch. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the left of the base point. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the left of the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same punch mark. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same punch mark. Actual Size Actual Size ! Take a 1/4" stitch perpendicular to the base point. ! Take a 1/4" stitch perpendicular to the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same Punch mark. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same Punch mark. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the right of the base point. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the right of the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point. CLIP STITCH CLIP STITCH Creates small dots of thread similar to Reverse Stitch but fluffier in appearance. Creates small dots of thread similar to Reverse Stitch but fluffier in appearance. APPLICATION APPLICATION Many areas - examples: water areas to simulate water droplets; centers of flowers, etc. Many areas - examples: water areas to simulate water droplets; centers of flowers, etc. 58 58 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! With 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle, punch in and pull thread to the back of the canvas. This punch mark will serve as the base point of the Claw Stitch. ! With 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle, punch in and pull thread to the back of the canvas. This punch mark will serve as the base point of the Claw Stitch. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the left of the base point. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the left of the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same punch mark. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same punch mark. Actual Size Actual Size ! Take a 1/4" stitch perpendicular to the base point. ! Take a 1/4" stitch perpendicular to the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same Punch mark. ! Stitch back to the base point but not in the same Punch mark. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the right of the base point. ! Take a 1/4" stitch on an angle to the right of the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point. ! Stitch back to the base point. CLIP STITCH CLIP STITCH Creates small dots of thread similar to Reverse Stitch but fluffier in appearance. Creates small dots of thread similar to Reverse Stitch but fluffier in appearance. APPLICATION APPLICATION Many areas - examples: water areas to simulate water droplets; centers of flowers, etc. Many areas - examples: water areas to simulate water droplets; centers of flowers, etc. 58 58 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle. ! 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle. ! Punch in - pull the end to the back of the canvas. ! Punch in - pull the end to the back of the canvas. ! Lift the needle up about 1/4" off the canvas. ! Lift the needle up about 1/4" off the canvas. ! Cut the thread. ! Cut the thread. ! Adjust the height by pulling on the ends. ! Adjust the height by pulling on the ends. CORD STITCH CORD STITCH The different variations of Cord Stitch can be used for stitching single lines where a slightly thicker effect than Running Stitch is desired and also for completing solid areas. Cord Stitch uses twice the amount of thread than normal Flat Stitching. The different variations of Cord Stitch can be used for stitching single lines where a slightly thicker effect than Running Stitch is desired and also for completing solid areas. Cord Stitch uses twice the amount of thread than normal Flat Stitching. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower stems, borders, breasts of birds, hair, etc. Flower stems, borders, breasts of birds, hair, etc. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE BASIC TECHNIQUE BASIC TECHNIQUE ! Take a normal 1/2" stitch ! Take a normal 1/2" stitch ! Go 1/2 way back along this stitch and punch into the line. ! Go 1/2 way back along this stitch and punch into the line. 59 TECHNIQUE 59 TECHNIQUE ! 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle. ! 2/4 pull thread in a flat needle. ! Punch in - pull the end to the back of the canvas. ! Punch in - pull the end to the back of the canvas. ! Lift the needle up about 1/4" off the canvas. ! Lift the needle up about 1/4" off the canvas. ! Cut the thread. ! Cut the thread. ! Adjust the height by pulling on the ends. ! Adjust the height by pulling on the ends. CORD STITCH CORD STITCH The different variations of Cord Stitch can be used for stitching single lines where a slightly thicker effect than Running Stitch is desired and also for completing solid areas. Cord Stitch uses twice the amount of thread than normal Flat Stitching. The different variations of Cord Stitch can be used for stitching single lines where a slightly thicker effect than Running Stitch is desired and also for completing solid areas. Cord Stitch uses twice the amount of thread than normal Flat Stitching. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower stems, borders, breasts of birds, hair, etc. Flower stems, borders, breasts of birds, hair, etc. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE BASIC TECHNIQUE BASIC TECHNIQUE ! Take a normal 1/2" stitch ! Take a normal 1/2" stitch ! Go 1/2 way back along this stitch and punch into the line. ! Go 1/2 way back along this stitch and punch into the line. 59 59 ! ! Take another 1/2" stitch. Take a step 1/2 way back, on the same side that you punched back on the first stitch and punch. Repeat. ! ! Take another 1/2" stitch. Take a step 1/2 way back, on the same side that you punched back on the first stitch and punch. Repeat. For Cord Stitch to look attractive it is important that the 'step back stitch' is always punched on the same side of the main stitch. For Cord Stitch to look attractive it is important that the 'step back stitch' is always punched on the same side of the main stitch. Shorten the stitch length when working on a curve. Shorten the stitch length when working on a curve. CORD STITCH VARIATIONS CORD STITCH VARIATIONS Varying the length of the back-up stitch will produce different designs. Varying the length of the back-up stitch will produce different designs. FOR STITCHING SINGLE LINES FOR STITCHING SINGLE LINES Short Cord : Short Cord : Length of back-up stitch = 1/4 to 1/3 the length of the main stitch. Long Cord : Length of back-up stitch = 1/4 to 1/3 the length of the main stitch. Long Cord : Length of back-up stitch = 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the main stitch. Length of back-up stitch = 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the main stitch. 60 ! ! Take another 1/2" stitch. Take a step 1/2 way back, on the same side that you punched back on the first stitch and punch. Repeat. 60 ! ! Take another 1/2" stitch. Take a step 1/2 way back, on the same side that you punched back on the first stitch and punch. Repeat. For Cord Stitch to look attractive it is important that the 'step back stitch' is always punched on the same side of the main stitch. For Cord Stitch to look attractive it is important that the 'step back stitch' is always punched on the same side of the main stitch. Shorten the stitch length when working on a curve. Shorten the stitch length when working on a curve. CORD STITCH VARIATIONS CORD STITCH VARIATIONS Varying the length of the back-up stitch will produce different designs. Varying the length of the back-up stitch will produce different designs. FOR STITCHING SINGLE LINES FOR STITCHING SINGLE LINES Short Cord : Short Cord : Length of back-up stitch = 1/4 to 1/3 the length of the main stitch. Long Cord : Length of back-up stitch = 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the main stitch. 60 Length of back-up stitch = 1/4 to 1/3 the length of the main stitch. Long Cord : Length of back-up stitch = 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the main stitch. 60 Tight Cord : Tight Cord : Length of back-up stitch = full length of the main stitch Length of back-up stitch = full length of the main stitch Single Cord : Single Cord : One back-up stitch between two main stitches. One back-up stitch between two main stitches. TO FILL IN AN AREA WITH CORD STITCH TO FILL IN AN AREA WITH CORD STITCH Solid Cord: (also referred to as Toss Stitch) Rows of Cord Stitch are worked back and forth within the area. Solid Cord: (also referred to as Toss Stitch) Rows of Cord Stitch are worked back and forth within the area. COUCHING STITCH COUCHING STITCH This is a fastening stitch used to secure other threads to the canvas. This is a fastening stitch used to secure other threads to the canvas. APPLICATION APPLICATION - Used with Ring Stitch to tack down each loop to create a daisy effect. - Used with Ring Stitch to tack down each loop to create a daisy effect. 61 61 Tight Cord : Tight Cord : Length of back-up stitch = full length of the main stitch Length of back-up stitch = full length of the main stitch Single Cord : Single Cord : One back-up stitch between two main stitches. One back-up stitch between two main stitches. TO FILL IN AN AREA WITH CORD STITCH TO FILL IN AN AREA WITH CORD STITCH Solid Cord: (also referred to as Toss Stitch) Rows of Cord Stitch are worked back and forth within the area. Solid Cord: (also referred to as Toss Stitch) Rows of Cord Stitch are worked back and forth within the area. COUCHING STITCH COUCHING STITCH This is a fastening stitch used to secure other threads to the canvas. This is a fastening stitch used to secure other threads to the canvas. APPLICATION APPLICATION - Used with Ring Stitch to tack down each loop to create a daisy effect. - Used with Ring Stitch to tack down each loop to create a daisy effect. 61 61 - Also used with Inlay Stitch to hold down the line of whole thread. This line is then later overstitched with Satin Stitch. - Also used with Inlay Stitch to hold down the line of whole thread. This line is then later overstitched with Satin Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE TO TACK DOWN INLAY STITCH TO TACK DOWN INLAY STITCH There are two methods - Method 1 is worked on the front of the canvas; Method 2 is worked from underneath the canvas. There are two methods - Method 1 is worked on the front of the canvas; Method 2 is worked from underneath the canvas. Method 1 Method 1 - Using 2/4 pull thread in a flat stitch needle, punch directly under the whole thread. - Using 2/4 pull thread in a flat stitch needle, punch directly under the whole thread. - Pull the end to the back. - Pull the end to the back. - Lift the needle over the thread and punch directly under the whole thread. - Lift the needle over the thread and punch directly under the whole thread. - Pull the end to the back. One Couching Stitch completed. - Pull the end to the back. One Couching Stitch completed. - Place small Couching Stitches about every 1/2" along the length of the whole thread. - Place small Couching Stitches about every 1/2" along the length of the whole thread. Method 2 Method 2 - With a bunka needle threaded with 2/4 pull under the canvas, punch up through to the front, on the line where the whole thread will lay. - With a bunka needle threaded with 2/4 pull under the canvas, punch up through to the front, on the line where the whole thread will lay. 62 62 - Also used with Inlay Stitch to hold down the line of whole thread. This line is then later overstitched with Satin Stitch. - Also used with Inlay Stitch to hold down the line of whole thread. This line is then later overstitched with Satin Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE TO TACK DOWN INLAY STITCH TO TACK DOWN INLAY STITCH There are two methods - Method 1 is worked on the front of the canvas; Method 2 is worked from underneath the canvas. There are two methods - Method 1 is worked on the front of the canvas; Method 2 is worked from underneath the canvas. Method 1 Method 1 - Using 2/4 pull thread in a flat stitch needle, punch directly under the whole thread. - Using 2/4 pull thread in a flat stitch needle, punch directly under the whole thread. - Pull the end to the back. - Pull the end to the back. - Lift the needle over the thread and punch directly under the whole thread. - Lift the needle over the thread and punch directly under the whole thread. - Pull the end to the back. One Couching Stitch completed. - Pull the end to the back. One Couching Stitch completed. - Place small Couching Stitches about every 1/2" along the length of the whole thread. - Place small Couching Stitches about every 1/2" along the length of the whole thread. Method 2 Method 2 - With a bunka needle threaded with 2/4 pull under the canvas, punch up through to the front, on the line where the whole thread will lay. - With a bunka needle threaded with 2/4 pull under the canvas, punch up through to the front, on the line where the whole thread will lay. 62 62 - Lift off the loop of thread. - Lift off the loop of thread. - Slide the end of a length of whole thread through the loop. - Slide the end of a length of whole thread through the loop. - Tighten the loop over the whole thread by pulling down on the needle. - Tighten the loop over the whole thread by pulling down on the needle. - Continue along the line, approx. every 1/2". - Continue along the line, approx. every 1/2". TO TACK DOWN RING STITCH TO TACK DOWN RING STITCH - Press the loop flat to the canvas. - Press the loop flat to the canvas. - Punch directly under the center point of the tip of the loop. - Punch directly under the center point of the tip of the loop. - Lift over the loop and punch directly under the loop. - Lift over the loop and punch directly under the loop. - Pull the end to the back. - Pull the end to the back. CURVES CURVES Stitch direction in Bunka Shishu embroidery is extremely important to the overall beauty of the picture. With curved stitching, the stitch length, regardless of which technique is being used, must be shortened to ensure proper stitch alignment and direction but returning to the normal 1/2" stitch length wherever possible. Stitch direction in Bunka Shishu embroidery is extremely important to the overall beauty of the picture. With curved stitching, the stitch length, regardless of which technique is being used, must be shortened to ensure proper stitch alignment and direction but returning to the normal 1/2" stitch length wherever possible. 63 63 - Lift off the loop of thread. - Lift off the loop of thread. - Slide the end of a length of whole thread through the loop. - Slide the end of a length of whole thread through the loop. - Tighten the loop over the whole thread by pulling down on the needle. - Tighten the loop over the whole thread by pulling down on the needle. - Continue along the line, approx. every 1/2". - Continue along the line, approx. every 1/2". TO TACK DOWN RING STITCH TO TACK DOWN RING STITCH - Press the loop flat to the canvas. - Press the loop flat to the canvas. - Punch directly under the center point of the tip of the loop. - Punch directly under the center point of the tip of the loop. - Lift over the loop and punch directly under the loop. - Lift over the loop and punch directly under the loop. - Pull the end to the back. - Pull the end to the back. CURVES CURVES Stitch direction in Bunka Shishu embroidery is extremely important to the overall beauty of the picture. With curved stitching, the stitch length, regardless of which technique is being used, must be shortened to ensure proper stitch alignment and direction but returning to the normal 1/2" stitch length wherever possible. Stitch direction in Bunka Shishu embroidery is extremely important to the overall beauty of the picture. With curved stitching, the stitch length, regardless of which technique is being used, must be shortened to ensure proper stitch alignment and direction but returning to the normal 1/2" stitch length wherever possible. 63 63 This is relatively simple for single line designs. This is relatively simple for single line designs. To fill in a section with solid flat stitching where a drastic curve is required (round objects such as a wheel or a ball) it can become a little more difficult to master. Because shorter stitches can sometimes create a knobby or 'terry cloth effect, it is important that the stitch alignment of these large curved areas be consistent with the level of the surrounding work. To fill in a section with solid flat stitching where a drastic curve is required (round objects such as a wheel or a ball) it can become a little more difficult to master. Because shorter stitches can sometimes create a knobby or 'terry cloth effect, it is important that the stitch alignment of these large curved areas be consistent with the level of the surrounding work. DOUBLE CANVAS DOUBLE CANVAS It is recommended that this advanced technique be learned from a qualified teacher. It is recommended that this advanced technique be learned from a qualified teacher. The completed picture consists of 2 canvases; the primary canvas which is the main picture and the secondary canvas which is placed over the primary canvas with an opening cut out which acts as a 'window' for the primary design. The completed picture consists of 2 canvases; the primary canvas which is the main picture and the secondary canvas which is placed over the primary canvas with an opening cut out which acts as a 'window' for the primary design. The secondary canvas can have decorative stitching placed around the opening, in each corner, etc. The design on the secondary canvas should be kept very simple but should compliment the primary canvas. For example, if the primary canvas is a bouquet of flowers, small flowers or a design in the same colours could enhance the perimeter of the opening on the secondary canvas. The secondary canvas can have decorative stitching placed around the opening, in each corner, etc. The design on the secondary canvas should be kept very simple but should compliment the primary canvas. For example, if the primary canvas is a bouquet of flowers, small flowers or a design in the same colours could enhance the perimeter of the opening on the secondary canvas. 64 64 This is relatively simple for single line designs. This is relatively simple for single line designs. To fill in a section with solid flat stitching where a drastic curve is required (round objects such as a wheel or a ball) it can become a little more difficult to master. Because shorter stitches can sometimes create a knobby or 'terry cloth effect, it is important that the stitch alignment of these large curved areas be consistent with the level of the surrounding work. To fill in a section with solid flat stitching where a drastic curve is required (round objects such as a wheel or a ball) it can become a little more difficult to master. Because shorter stitches can sometimes create a knobby or 'terry cloth effect, it is important that the stitch alignment of these large curved areas be consistent with the level of the surrounding work. DOUBLE CANVAS DOUBLE CANVAS It is recommended that this advanced technique be learned from a qualified teacher. It is recommended that this advanced technique be learned from a qualified teacher. The completed picture consists of 2 canvases; the primary canvas which is the main picture and the secondary canvas which is placed over the primary canvas with an opening cut out which acts as a 'window' for the primary design. The completed picture consists of 2 canvases; the primary canvas which is the main picture and the secondary canvas which is placed over the primary canvas with an opening cut out which acts as a 'window' for the primary design. The secondary canvas can have decorative stitching placed around the opening, in each corner, etc. The design on the secondary canvas should be kept very simple but should compliment the primary canvas. For example, if the primary canvas is a bouquet of flowers, small flowers or a design in the same colours could enhance the perimeter of the opening on the secondary canvas. The secondary canvas can have decorative stitching placed around the opening, in each corner, etc. The design on the secondary canvas should be kept very simple but should compliment the primary canvas. For example, if the primary canvas is a bouquet of flowers, small flowers or a design in the same colours could enhance the perimeter of the opening on the secondary canvas. 64 64 Canvas 1 Primary Canvas 2 Secondary Canvas 1+2 Combined Canvas 1 Primary Canvas 2 Secondary Canvas 1+2 Combined APPLICATION APPLICATION Original Stitchery at Stitcher's Discretion. Original Stitchery at Stitcher's Discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Primary Canvas Primary Canvas ! Upon completion of the picture, remove the canvas from the work frame and stretch the secondary canvas. Secondary Canvas ! ! Upon completion of the picture, remove the canvas from the work frame and stretch the secondary canvas. Secondary Canvas Draw and oval design, centered on a stretched canvas (best to use a template). ! Draw and oval design, centered on a stretched canvas (best to use a template). ! To reinforce the circular shape, sew a basting line on the drawn using small stitches with a regular sewing needle and thread. STEP 1 ! To reinforce the circular shape, sew a basting line on the drawn using small stitches with a regular sewing needle and thread. STEP 1 ! To lock in this basting line, sew a second basting line on top of the first, reversing the stitches; STEP 2 ! To lock in this basting line, sew a second basting line on top of the first, reversing the stitches; STEP 2 65 Canvas 1 Primary Canvas 2 Secondary 65 Canvas 1+2 Combined Canvas 1 Primary Canvas 2 Secondary Canvas 1+2 Combined APPLICATION APPLICATION Original Stitchery at Stitcher's Discretion. Original Stitchery at Stitcher's Discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Primary Canvas Primary Canvas ! Upon completion of the picture, remove the canvas from the work frame and stretch the secondary canvas. Secondary Canvas ! ! Upon completion of the picture, remove the canvas from the work frame and stretch the secondary canvas. Secondary Canvas Draw and oval design, centered on a stretched canvas (best to use a template). ! Draw and oval design, centered on a stretched canvas (best to use a template). ! To reinforce the circular shape, sew a basting line on the drawn using small stitches with a regular sewing needle and thread. STEP 1 ! To reinforce the circular shape, sew a basting line on the drawn using small stitches with a regular sewing needle and thread. STEP 1 ! To lock in this basting line, sew a second basting line on top of the first, reversing the stitches; STEP 2 ! To lock in this basting line, sew a second basting line on top of the first, reversing the stitches; STEP 2 65 65 Step 1 Step 1 Canvas Canvas Step 2 Step 2 Canvas Canvas TO COMPLETE THE OPENING TO COMPLETE THE OPENING 1. A 1/2" hem will be turned and glued to the back. 1. A 1/2" hem will be turned and glued to the back. ! Trace any design work onto the canvas and complete the stitching before proceeding with the following steps. ! Trace any design work onto the canvas and complete the stitching before proceeding with the following steps. ! On the back of your canvas, place a line of rice glue on top of the basting stitches. ! On the back of your canvas, place a line of rice glue on top of the basting stitches. ! When cutting out the oval, the cutting line will allow for a 1/2" seam allowance which will be turned to the back, over the glue line. the cutting line can be marked lightly with a pencil. ! When cutting out the oval, the cutting line will allow for a 1/2" seam allowance which will be turned to the back, over the glue line. the cutting line can be marked lightly with a pencil. ! Begin by using very sharp scissors and snip the canvas 1/2" inside the line basting (towards the center of the oval). ! Begin by using very sharp scissors and snip the canvas 1/2" inside the line basting (towards the center of the oval). ! Continue to carefully cut 1/2" in all the way around the oval. ! Continue to carefully cut 1/2" in all the way around the oval. 66 66 Step 1 Step 1 Canvas Canvas Step 2 Step 2 Canvas Canvas TO COMPLETE THE OPENING TO COMPLETE THE OPENING 1. A 1/2" hem will be turned and glued to the back. 1. A 1/2" hem will be turned and glued to the back. ! Trace any design work onto the canvas and complete the stitching before proceeding with the following steps. ! Trace any design work onto the canvas and complete the stitching before proceeding with the following steps. ! On the back of your canvas, place a line of rice glue on top of the basting stitches. ! On the back of your canvas, place a line of rice glue on top of the basting stitches. ! When cutting out the oval, the cutting line will allow for a 1/2" seam allowance which will be turned to the back, over the glue line. the cutting line can be marked lightly with a pencil. ! When cutting out the oval, the cutting line will allow for a 1/2" seam allowance which will be turned to the back, over the glue line. the cutting line can be marked lightly with a pencil. ! Begin by using very sharp scissors and snip the canvas 1/2" inside the line basting (towards the center of the oval). ! Begin by using very sharp scissors and snip the canvas 1/2" inside the line basting (towards the center of the oval). ! Continue to carefully cut 1/2" in all the way around the oval. ! Continue to carefully cut 1/2" in all the way around the oval. 66 66 ! To ease the curve, cut into the seam allowance to the basting line, about every 3/4". ! To ease the curve, cut into the seam allowance to the basting line, about every 3/4". ! Turn these 'flaps' to the back and over the glue line. ! Turn these 'flaps' to the back and over the glue line. ! Sew in another basting line to secure the rough edges about 1/4" out from the finished edge. ! Sew in another basting line to secure the rough edges about 1/4" out from the finished edge. ! Blanket Edge Stitching is used to create a decorative border on the edge of the oval. (see Blanket Stitch) ! Blanket Edge Stitching is used to create a decorative border on the edge of the oval. (see Blanket Stitch) DOUBLE STITCHING DOUBLE STITCHING See Padding, Double Stitching See Padding, Double Stitching EYES, GOLD RIBBON EYES, GOLD RIBBON Since the eyes are the focal point of the picture it is very important that they are constructed as neatly as possible. The eyes along with the mouth and body position set the mood of the picture, creating the aspect of either gentleness or fierceness. The step-by-step instructions are specific to a tiger's eye, however, the basic steps, such as creating the pupil, padding, gluing the gold ribbon will apply to all gold ribbon eye applications. Refer to the insert to see if the accents such as the eyeliner are required for your picture. Since the eyes are the focal point of the picture it is very important that they are constructed as neatly as possible. The eyes along with the mouth and body position set the mood of the picture, creating the aspect of either gentleness or fierceness. The step-by-step instructions are specific to a tiger's eye, however, the basic steps, such as creating the pupil, padding, gluing the gold ribbon will apply to all gold ribbon eye applications. Refer to the insert to see if the accents such as the eyeliner are required for your picture. 67 67 ! To ease the curve, cut into the seam allowance to the basting line, about every 3/4". ! To ease the curve, cut into the seam allowance to the basting line, about every 3/4". ! Turn these 'flaps' to the back and over the glue line. ! Turn these 'flaps' to the back and over the glue line. ! Sew in another basting line to secure the rough edges about 1/4" out from the finished edge. ! Sew in another basting line to secure the rough edges about 1/4" out from the finished edge. ! Blanket Edge Stitching is used to create a decorative border on the edge of the oval. (see Blanket Stitch) ! Blanket Edge Stitching is used to create a decorative border on the edge of the oval. (see Blanket Stitch) DOUBLE STITCHING DOUBLE STITCHING See Padding, Double Stitching See Padding, Double Stitching EYES, GOLD RIBBON EYES, GOLD RIBBON Since the eyes are the focal point of the picture it is very important that they are constructed as neatly as possible. The eyes along with the mouth and body position set the mood of the picture, creating the aspect of either gentleness or fierceness. The step-by-step instructions are specific to a tiger's eye, however, the basic steps, such as creating the pupil, padding, gluing the gold ribbon will apply to all gold ribbon eye applications. Refer to the insert to see if the accents such as the eyeliner are required for your picture. Since the eyes are the focal point of the picture it is very important that they are constructed as neatly as possible. The eyes along with the mouth and body position set the mood of the picture, creating the aspect of either gentleness or fierceness. The step-by-step instructions are specific to a tiger's eye, however, the basic steps, such as creating the pupil, padding, gluing the gold ribbon will apply to all gold ribbon eye applications. Refer to the insert to see if the accents such as the eyeliner are required for your picture. 67 67 Because of the adhesive material used with this method, there should not be any stitching around the eye area. Because of the adhesive material used with this method, there should not be any stitching around the eye area. A Gold Ribbon eye consists of : A Gold Ribbon eye consists of : 1. Layer of padding 3. Pupil 1. Layer of padding 3. Pupil 2. Gold Ribbon 4. Outline 2. Gold Ribbon 4. Outline Considerable preparatory work is needed prior to working directly on the canvas. Considerable preparatory work is needed prior to working directly on the canvas. Supplies you will need: Supplies you will need: Rice Glue Toothpick Scissors Masking Tape Straight Pin STEP 1 - Tracing the Patterns ! Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye to the back of the canvas. For lightcoloured canvas, hold Masking tape the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. Rice Glue Toothpick Scissors Masking Tape Straight Pin STEP 1 - Tracing the Patterns ! 68 Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye to the back of the canvas. For lightcoloured canvas, hold Masking tape the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. 68 Because of the adhesive material used with this method, there should not be any stitching around the eye area. Because of the adhesive material used with this method, there should not be any stitching around the eye area. A Gold Ribbon eye consists of : A Gold Ribbon eye consists of : 1. Layer of padding 3. Pupil 1. Layer of padding 3. Pupil 2. Gold Ribbon 4. Outline 2. Gold Ribbon 4. Outline Considerable preparatory work is needed prior to working directly on the canvas. Considerable preparatory work is needed prior to working directly on the canvas. Supplies you will need: Supplies you will need: Rice Glue Toothpick Scissors Masking Tape Straight Pin STEP 1 - Tracing the Patterns ! Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye to the back of the canvas. For lightcoloured canvas, hold Masking tape the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. 68 Rice Glue Toothpick Scissors Masking Tape Straight Pin STEP 1 - Tracing the Patterns ! Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye to the back of the canvas. For lightcoloured canvas, hold Masking tape the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. 68 ! Remove the tape and stick to the gold ribbon so that the grain in the ribbon matches the direction used in the coloured insert. ! Gold ribbon Cut out Remove the tape and stick to the gold ribbon so that the grain in the ribbon matches the direction used in the coloured insert. Gold ribbon Cut out ! Cut out the eye from the gold ribbon. With your finger and thumb, curve the gold ribbon to create a bulge in the middle. ! Cut out the eye from the gold ribbon. With your finger and thumb, curve the gold ribbon to create a bulge in the middle. ! Kits may include a piece of adhesive white satin ribbon. Peel off the paper backing and use the white ribbon in the same manner as the masking tape. ! Kits may include a piece of adhesive white satin ribbon. Peel off the paper backing and use the white ribbon in the same manner as the masking tape. ! Trace the pattern of the pupil onto another piece of masking tape in the same manner as above. ! Trace the pattern of the pupil onto another piece of masking tape in the same manner as above. STEP 2 - Making the Pupil ! ! ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. STEP 2 - Making the Pupil Glued unpulled thread Masking tape Stick this cut end to the center of the pupil design on the sticky side of the masking tape. ! ! Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. Glued unpulled thread Masking tape Stick this cut end to the center of the pupil design on the sticky side of the masking tape. Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. 69 ! Remove the tape and stick to the gold ribbon so that the grain in the ribbon matches the direction used in the coloured insert. 69 ! Gold ribbon Cut out Remove the tape and stick to the gold ribbon so that the grain in the ribbon matches the direction used in the coloured insert. Gold ribbon Cut out ! Cut out the eye from the gold ribbon. With your finger and thumb, curve the gold ribbon to create a bulge in the middle. ! Cut out the eye from the gold ribbon. With your finger and thumb, curve the gold ribbon to create a bulge in the middle. ! Kits may include a piece of adhesive white satin ribbon. Peel off the paper backing and use the white ribbon in the same manner as the masking tape. ! Kits may include a piece of adhesive white satin ribbon. Peel off the paper backing and use the white ribbon in the same manner as the masking tape. ! Trace the pattern of the pupil onto another piece of masking tape in the same manner as above. ! Trace the pattern of the pupil onto another piece of masking tape in the same manner as above. STEP 2 - Making the Pupil ! ! ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. STEP 2 - Making the Pupil Glued unpulled thread Masking tape Stick this cut end to the center of the pupil design on the sticky side of the masking tape. ! ! Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. 69 ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. Glued unpulled thread Masking tape Stick this cut end to the center of the pupil design on the sticky side of the masking tape. Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. 69 ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil and set aside to dry. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil and set aside to dry. STEP 3 - Padding STEP 3 - Padding The entire eye should be padded with progressively larger sections of 3 levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge in the top center area. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. The entire eye should be padded with progressively larger sections of 3 levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge in the top center area. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! Change direction and stitch a second, larger layer over the first layer, covering approx. 2/3 of the entire eye area. ! Change direction and stitch a second, larger layer over the first layer, covering approx. 2/3 of the entire eye area. ! Change direction, stitch the third layer over the first two layers, covering the whole eye area but staying inside the printed design line. ! Change direction, stitch the third layer over the first two layers, covering the whole eye area but staying inside the printed design line. 70 70 ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil and set aside to dry. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil and set aside to dry. STEP 3 - Padding STEP 3 - Padding The entire eye should be padded with progressively larger sections of 3 levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge in the top center area. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. The entire eye should be padded with progressively larger sections of 3 levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge in the top center area. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! Change direction and stitch a second, larger layer over the first layer, covering approx. 2/3 of the entire eye area. ! Change direction and stitch a second, larger layer over the first layer, covering approx. 2/3 of the entire eye area. ! Change direction, stitch the third layer over the first two layers, covering the whole eye area but staying inside the printed design line. ! Change direction, stitch the third layer over the first two layers, covering the whole eye area but staying inside the printed design line. 70 70 STEP 4 - Gluing the Gold Ribbon STEP 4 - Gluing the Gold Ribbon ! Spread a layer of rice glue evenly over the surface and edges of the padding. ! Spread a layer of rice glue evenly over the surface and edges of the padding. ! Place the gold ribbon masking tape side down over the glue. ! Place the gold ribbon masking tape side down over the glue. ! Press and hold with your fingers until the ribbon is secure. ! Press and hold with your fingers until the ribbon is secure. STEP 5 ! STEP 5 Complete the surrounding flat stitching up to the eye area. STEP 6 - Attaching the Pupil ! Complete the surrounding flat stitching up to the eye area. STEP 6 - Attaching the Pupil ! Carefully peel the pupil off of the masking tape. ! Carefully peel the pupil off of the masking tape. ! Spread another thin layer of glue to the same side that was glued originally. ! Spread another thin layer of glue to the same side that was glued originally. ! Place glue side down, to the top center of the gold ribbon. ! Place glue side down, to the top center of the gold ribbon. Gold Ribbon STEP 7 - Eyeliners STEP 7 - Eyeliners Around the pupil: Around the pupil: ! Carefully spread a thin, circular line of glue around the pupil as shown in the diagram. ! Gold Ribbon Carefully spread a thin, circular line of glue around the pupil as shown in the diagram. 71 STEP 4 - Gluing the Gold Ribbon 71 STEP 4 - Gluing the Gold Ribbon ! Spread a layer of rice glue evenly over the surface and edges of the padding. ! Spread a layer of rice glue evenly over the surface and edges of the padding. ! Place the gold ribbon masking tape side down over the glue. ! Place the gold ribbon masking tape side down over the glue. ! Press and hold with your fingers until the ribbon is secure. ! Press and hold with your fingers until the ribbon is secure. STEP 5 ! STEP 5 Complete the surrounding flat stitching up to the eye area. STEP 6 - Attaching the Pupil ! Complete the surrounding flat stitching up to the eye area. STEP 6 - Attaching the Pupil ! Carefully peel the pupil off of the masking tape. ! Carefully peel the pupil off of the masking tape. ! Spread another thin layer of glue to the same side that was glued originally. ! Spread another thin layer of glue to the same side that was glued originally. ! Place glue side down, to the top center of the gold ribbon. ! Place glue side down, to the top center of the gold ribbon. Gold Ribbon STEP 7 - Eyeliners STEP 7 - Eyeliners Around the pupil: Around the pupil: ! Carefully spread a thin, circular line of glue around the pupil as shown in the diagram. ! 71 Gold Ribbon Carefully spread a thin, circular line of glue around the pupil as shown in the diagram. 71 ! Lay 2/4 pull along the glue line. ! Lay 2/4 pull along the glue line. STEP 8 STEP 8 Around the Entire Eye: Around the Entire Eye: ! Angle cut the end of whole black thread. ! Angle cut the end of whole black thread. ! Spread a line of glue along the top and bottom edge of the gold ribbon. ! Spread a line of glue along the top and bottom edge of the gold ribbon. Threads touching ! Lay the whole thread along the top edge, from corner to corner. Cut the end on an angle. ! Lay the whole thread along the top edge, from corner to corner. Cut the end on an angle. ! Repeat for the bottom edge, tucking in the cut ends to keep it nice and neat. ! Repeat for the bottom edge, tucking in the cut ends to keep it nice and neat. ! Along the upper edge, glue a second line of whole thread above the first line. ! Along the upper edge, glue a second line of whole thread above the first line. Threads touching STEP 9 - Highlight STEP 9 - Highlight The highlight is usually located at either 2:00 o'clock or 10:00. Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement, some pictures have two highlights in the same eye. The highlight is usually located at either 2:00 o'clock or 10:00. Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement, some pictures have two highlights in the same eye. 72 ! 72 Lay 2/4 pull along the glue line. ! Lay 2/4 pull along the glue line. STEP 8 STEP 8 Around the Entire Eye: Around the Entire Eye: ! Angle cut the end of whole black thread. ! Angle cut the end of whole black thread. ! Spread a line of glue along the top and bottom edge of the gold ribbon. ! Spread a line of glue along the top and bottom edge of the gold ribbon. Threads touching ! Lay the whole thread along the top edge, from corner to corner. Cut the end on an angle. ! Lay the whole thread along the top edge, from corner to corner. Cut the end on an angle. ! Repeat for the bottom edge, tucking in the cut ends to keep it nice and neat. ! Repeat for the bottom edge, tucking in the cut ends to keep it nice and neat. ! Along the upper edge, glue a second line of whole thread above the first line. ! Along the upper edge, glue a second line of whole thread above the first line. Threads touching STEP 9 - Highlight STEP 9 - Highlight The highlight is usually located at either 2:00 o'clock or 10:00. Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement, some pictures have two highlights in the same eye. The highlight is usually located at either 2:00 o'clock or 10:00. Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement, some pictures have two highlights in the same eye. 72 72 Method 1 Method 1 ! Tie a knot in a short piece of white 3/4 pull thread. ! Tie a knot in a short piece of white 3/4 pull thread. ! Clip off the thread at both sides of the knot this leaves a small ball of thread. ! Clip off the thread at both sides of the knot this leaves a small ball of thread. ! Stick to the gold ribbon with a small dot of glue. ! Stick to the gold ribbon with a small dot of glue. Method 2 ! Method 2 Using whole (un-pulled) thread, cut off a tiny piece (approx. 2 mm long) and glue onto the gold ribbon. SUMMARY PROCEDURE FOR GOLD RIBBON TIGER'S EYE ! Using whole (un-pulled) thread, cut off a tiny piece (approx. 2 mm long) and glue onto the gold ribbon. SUMMARY PROCEDURE FOR GOLD RIBBON TIGER'S EYE Step 1 Trace the pattern for the whole eye and the pupil onto masking tape. Step 1 Trace the pattern for the whole eye and the pupil onto masking tape. Step 2 Make the pupil using whole thread. Glue & set aside to dry. Step 2 Make the pupil using whole thread. Glue & set aside to dry. Step 3 Pad the eye. Step 3 Pad the eye. Step 4 Glue the gold ribbon over the padding. Step 4 Glue the gold ribbon over the padding. Step 5 Complete any flat stitching right up to the gold ribbon. Step 5 Complete any flat stitching right up to the gold ribbon. Step 6 Glue the pupil to the top center of the gold ribbon. Step 6 Glue the pupil to the top center of the gold ribbon. Step 7 Glue circular line of 2/4 pull black thread to the gold ribbon, around the pupil. Step 7 Glue circular line of 2/4 pull black thread to the gold ribbon, around the pupil. Step 8 Glue 2 rows of whole thread above the eye and 1 row below the eye. Step 8 Glue 2 rows of whole thread above the eye and 1 row below the eye. Step 9 Glue highlight. Step 9 Glue highlight. 73 Method 1 73 Method 1 ! Tie a knot in a short piece of white 3/4 pull thread. ! Tie a knot in a short piece of white 3/4 pull thread. ! Clip off the thread at both sides of the knot this leaves a small ball of thread. ! Clip off the thread at both sides of the knot this leaves a small ball of thread. ! Stick to the gold ribbon with a small dot of glue. ! Stick to the gold ribbon with a small dot of glue. Method 2 ! Method 2 Using whole (un-pulled) thread, cut off a tiny piece (approx. 2 mm long) and glue onto the gold ribbon. SUMMARY PROCEDURE FOR GOLD RIBBON TIGER'S EYE ! Using whole (un-pulled) thread, cut off a tiny piece (approx. 2 mm long) and glue onto the gold ribbon. SUMMARY PROCEDURE FOR GOLD RIBBON TIGER'S EYE Step 1 Trace the pattern for the whole eye and the pupil onto masking tape. Step 1 Trace the pattern for the whole eye and the pupil onto masking tape. Step 2 Make the pupil using whole thread. Glue & set aside to dry. Step 2 Make the pupil using whole thread. Glue & set aside to dry. Step 3 Pad the eye. Step 3 Pad the eye. Step 4 Glue the gold ribbon over the padding. Step 4 Glue the gold ribbon over the padding. Step 5 Complete any flat stitching right up to the gold ribbon. Step 5 Complete any flat stitching right up to the gold ribbon. Step 6 Glue the pupil to the top center of the gold ribbon. Step 6 Glue the pupil to the top center of the gold ribbon. Step 7 Glue circular line of 2/4 pull black thread to the gold ribbon, around the pupil. Step 7 Glue circular line of 2/4 pull black thread to the gold ribbon, around the pupil. Step 8 Glue 2 rows of whole thread above the eye and 1 row below the eye. Step 8 Glue 2 rows of whole thread above the eye and 1 row below the eye. Step 9 Glue highlight. Step 9 Glue highlight. 73 73 EYES STITCHED EYES STITCHED The stitched eye is much softer in appearance as compared to gold ribbon eye that lends a more fierce appearance. Either 1/4 Pull or 2/4 Pull Thread can be used. The stitched eye is much softer in appearance as compared to gold ribbon eye that lends a more fierce appearance. Either 1/4 Pull or 2/4 Pull Thread can be used. APPLICATION APPLICATION Animals, birds, fish, people. Animals, birds, fish, people. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Outline the whole eye area first. This will help you retain the exact shape of the eye. ! Outline the whole eye area first. This will help you retain the exact shape of the eye. ! Outline the top edge of the iris. ! Outline the top edge of the iris. ! Stitch the iris with the appropriate colour, working over the top and bottom outlines. ! Stitch the iris with the appropriate colour, working over the top and bottom outlines. ! Stitch and cuts with a complimentary colour may be added for accent. ! Stitch and cuts with a complimentary colour may be added for accent. ! Pad the pupil area, reversing stitch direction with each layer. The number of layers may vary depending on the size and image. Overstitch padding with smooth Satin Stitch. Recouvrir le rembourrage en point de plumetis (Satin Stitch) lisse. ! Pad the pupil area, reversing stitch direction with each layer. The number of layers may vary depending on the size and image. Overstitch padding with smooth Satin Stitch. Recouvrir le rembourrage en point de plumetis (Satin Stitch) lisse. 74 74 EYES STITCHED EYES STITCHED The stitched eye is much softer in appearance as compared to gold ribbon eye that lends a more fierce appearance. Either 1/4 Pull or 2/4 Pull Thread can be used. The stitched eye is much softer in appearance as compared to gold ribbon eye that lends a more fierce appearance. Either 1/4 Pull or 2/4 Pull Thread can be used. APPLICATION APPLICATION Animals, birds, fish, people. Animals, birds, fish, people. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Outline the whole eye area first. This will help you retain the exact shape of the eye. ! Outline the whole eye area first. This will help you retain the exact shape of the eye. ! Outline the top edge of the iris. ! Outline the top edge of the iris. ! Stitch the iris with the appropriate colour, working over the top and bottom outlines. ! Stitch the iris with the appropriate colour, working over the top and bottom outlines. ! Stitch and cuts with a complimentary colour may be added for accent. ! Stitch and cuts with a complimentary colour may be added for accent. ! Pad the pupil area, reversing stitch direction with each layer. The number of layers may vary depending on the size and image. Overstitch padding with smooth Satin Stitch. Recouvrir le rembourrage en point de plumetis (Satin Stitch) lisse. ! Pad the pupil area, reversing stitch direction with each layer. The number of layers may vary depending on the size and image. Overstitch padding with smooth Satin Stitch. Recouvrir le rembourrage en point de plumetis (Satin Stitch) lisse. 74 74 ! Lashes - place a mixture of short and long Pine Needle Stitches and Stitch & Cuts along the top edge of the pupil. ! Lashes - place a mixture of short and long Pine Needle Stitches and Stitch & Cuts along the top edge of the pupil. ! Use either a Clip Stitch, Reverse Stitch or Picot to place a highlight on the same spot for both eyes. ! Use either a Clip Stitch, Reverse Stitch or Picot to place a highlight on the same spot for both eyes. FACES FACES To create the proper contours for facial features, stitch direction and shading are extremely important. Faint guidelines should be drawn on the canvas with pencil to ensure the correct flow of stitches. To create the proper contours for facial features, stitch direction and shading are extremely important. Faint guidelines should be drawn on the canvas with pencil to ensure the correct flow of stitches. ! Stitch the outline of the eye with bunka thread so that the exact size and shape of the eye is not lost when working on the surrounding areas. ! Stitch the outline of the eye with bunka thread so that the exact size and shape of the eye is not lost when working on the surrounding areas. 75 75 ! Lashes - place a mixture of short and long Pine Needle Stitches and Stitch & Cuts along the top edge of the pupil. ! Lashes - place a mixture of short and long Pine Needle Stitches and Stitch & Cuts along the top edge of the pupil. ! Use either a Clip Stitch, Reverse Stitch or Picot to place a highlight on the same spot for both eyes. ! Use either a Clip Stitch, Reverse Stitch or Picot to place a highlight on the same spot for both eyes. FACES FACES To create the proper contours for facial features, stitch direction and shading are extremely important. Faint guidelines should be drawn on the canvas with pencil to ensure the correct flow of stitches. To create the proper contours for facial features, stitch direction and shading are extremely important. Faint guidelines should be drawn on the canvas with pencil to ensure the correct flow of stitches. ! Stitch the outline of the eye with bunka thread so that the exact size and shape of the eye is not lost when working on the surrounding areas. ! 75 Stitch the outline of the eye with bunka thread so that the exact size and shape of the eye is not lost when working on the surrounding areas. 75 ! First, stitch the white area of the eye in a horizontal direction. ! First, stitch the white area of the eye in a horizontal direction. ! Second, complete the iris or coloured part in a circular direction with smooth short stitches. ! Second, complete the iris or coloured part in a circular direction with smooth short stitches. ! Third, complete the pupil or black center area of the eye in circulation direction. Place small Stitch & cuts around the iris. ! Third, complete the pupil or black center area of the eye in circulation direction. Place small Stitch & cuts around the iris. ! Fourth, place a small stitch on the pupil to create a highlight and to give the eye a focal point. ! Fourth, place a small stitch on the pupil to create a highlight and to give the eye a focal point. Highlight Highlight ! The large skin areas (cheeks, forehead) are stitched next with Flat Stitch, carefully following the penciled guidelines. Work as smooth as possible with special attention given to good blending. ! The large skin areas (cheeks, forehead) are stitched next with Flat Stitch, carefully following the penciled guidelines. Work as smooth as possible with special attention given to good blending. ! Nose: ! Nose: ! The nostrils should be stitched first with small stitches. Pull down each stitch to make sure they are as close to the canvas as possible. ! The nostrils should be stitched first with small stitches. Pull down each stitch to make sure they are as close to the canvas as possible. ! The tip and bridge of the nose should be lightly padded to give a raised effect. ! The tip and bridge of the nose should be lightly padded to give a raised effect. 76 76 ! First, stitch the white area of the eye in a horizontal direction. ! First, stitch the white area of the eye in a horizontal direction. ! Second, complete the iris or coloured part in a circular direction with smooth short stitches. ! Second, complete the iris or coloured part in a circular direction with smooth short stitches. ! Third, complete the pupil or black center area of the eye in circulation direction. Place small Stitch & cuts around the iris. ! Third, complete the pupil or black center area of the eye in circulation direction. Place small Stitch & cuts around the iris. ! Fourth, place a small stitch on the pupil to create a highlight and to give the eye a focal point. ! Fourth, place a small stitch on the pupil to create a highlight and to give the eye a focal point. Highlight Highlight ! The large skin areas (cheeks, forehead) are stitched next with Flat Stitch, carefully following the penciled guidelines. Work as smooth as possible with special attention given to good blending. ! The large skin areas (cheeks, forehead) are stitched next with Flat Stitch, carefully following the penciled guidelines. Work as smooth as possible with special attention given to good blending. ! Nose: ! Nose: ! The nostrils should be stitched first with small stitches. Pull down each stitch to make sure they are as close to the canvas as possible. ! The nostrils should be stitched first with small stitches. Pull down each stitch to make sure they are as close to the canvas as possible. ! The tip and bridge of the nose should be lightly padded to give a raised effect. ! The tip and bridge of the nose should be lightly padded to give a raised effect. 76 76 Eyebrows : ! Eyebrows : ! ! Horizontal direction gives a defined effect, preferable for ladies faces. ! Horizontal direction gives a defined effect, preferable for ladies faces. ! Stitches worked vertically on a slight angle creates a more shaggy effect. ! Stitches worked vertically on a slight angle creates a more shaggy effect. Outlines: ! Outlines: ! An outline around the face and hands is evident on some kits. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. Place a small amount of rice glue on your Fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. ! An outline around the face and hands is evident on some kits. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. Place a small amount of rice glue on your Fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. ! FEATHERING STITCH FEATHERING STITCH Creates a soft downy, or misty appearance to a specified location. Feathering stitch should look very different from the fluffy stitch. Feathering stitch should be very transparent and lays flat on your base layer of stitching. Creates a soft downy, or misty appearance to a specified location. Feathering stitch should look very different from the fluffy stitch. Feathering stitch should be very transparent and lays flat on your base layer of stitching. 77 Eyebrows : ! 77 Eyebrows : ! ! Horizontal direction gives a defined effect, preferable for ladies faces. ! Horizontal direction gives a defined effect, preferable for ladies faces. ! Stitches worked vertically on a slight angle creates a more shaggy effect. ! Stitches worked vertically on a slight angle creates a more shaggy effect. ! Outlines: ! An outline around the face and hands is evident on some kits. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. ! Place a small amount of rice glue on your Fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. Outlines: An outline around the face and hands is evident on some kits. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. ! Place a small amount of rice glue on your Fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. FEATHERING STITCH FEATHERING STITCH Creates a soft downy, or misty appearance to a specified location. Feathering stitch should look very different from the fluffy stitch. Feathering stitch should be very transparent and lays flat on your base layer of stitching. Creates a soft downy, or misty appearance to a specified location. Feathering stitch should look very different from the fluffy stitch. Feathering stitch should be very transparent and lays flat on your base layer of stitching. 77 77 APPLICATION APPLICATION Used in soft fur on an animal, mist at the bottom of a mountain, center of petals. Used in soft fur on an animal, mist at the bottom of a mountain, center of petals. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! stitch a base layer of regular stitching, 2/4 thread pull and 3/8" length stitches to cover your area ! stitch a base layer of regular stitching, 2/4 thread pull and 3/8" length stitches to cover your area ! overlay every third row of flat stitches with 1/4 thread pull, stitches 3/8" in length, in the same direction as the under base stitching ! overlay every third row of flat stitches with 1/4 thread pull, stitches 3/8" in length, in the same direction as the under base stitching ! using a firm toothbrush, brush top of stitching ! using a firm toothbrush, brush top of stitching ! ! use your fingers on your empty hand to apply pressure underneath the canvas. This will help in raising the stitched area for areas requiring a longer silkier look - use a percolator brush. TOOTHBRUSH ! ! use your fingers on your empty hand to apply pressure underneath the canvas. This will help in raising the stitched area for areas requiring a longer silkier look - use a percolator brush. PERCOLATOR BRUSH TOOTHBRUSH COMPLETED FEATHERING PERCOLATOR BRUSH COMPLETED FEATHERING 78 78 APPLICATION APPLICATION Used in soft fur on an animal, mist at the bottom of a mountain, center of petals. Used in soft fur on an animal, mist at the bottom of a mountain, center of petals. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! stitch a base layer of regular stitching, 2/4 thread pull and 3/8" length stitches to cover your area ! stitch a base layer of regular stitching, 2/4 thread pull and 3/8" length stitches to cover your area ! overlay every third row of flat stitches with 1/4 thread pull, stitches 3/8" in length, in the same direction as the under base stitching ! overlay every third row of flat stitches with 1/4 thread pull, stitches 3/8" in length, in the same direction as the under base stitching ! using a firm toothbrush, brush top of stitching ! using a firm toothbrush, brush top of stitching ! ! use your fingers on your empty hand to apply pressure underneath the canvas. This will help in raising the stitched area for areas requiring a longer silkier look - use a percolator brush. TOOTHBRUSH ! ! use your fingers on your empty hand to apply pressure underneath the canvas. This will help in raising the stitched area for areas requiring a longer silkier look - use a percolator brush. PERCOLATOR BRUSH TOOTHBRUSH COMPLETED FEATHERING 78 PERCOLATOR BRUSH COMPLETED FEATHERING 78 TRIMMING AND SHAPING ! TRIMMING AND SHAPING the slant ended clippers are the easiest instrument to use for trimming. ! Picture "A" the slant ended clippers are the easiest instrument to use for trimming. Picture "A" TRIM TRIM ! brush the feathering FLAT to the surface of the canvas in the proper direction ! brush the feathering FLAT to the surface of the canvas in the proper direction ! edges may be smooth or ragged. ! edges may be smooth or ragged. ! check insert of individual pictures for requirements. ! check insert of individual pictures for requirements. Picture "B" Picture "B" FISH EYES FISH EYES The circular area of a fish eye is stitched first with regular 2/4 thread. To ensure that the shape and size of the pupil are kept as precise as possible, take a pattern of the pupil area with masking tape before doing any stitching. The pupil is made out of whole thread and later glued on top of the stitched area. The circular area of a fish eye is stitched first with regular 2/4 thread. To ensure that the shape and size of the pupil are kept as precise as possible, take a pattern of the pupil area with masking tape before doing any stitching. The pupil is made out of whole thread and later glued on top of the stitched area. 79 TRIMMING AND SHAPING ! 79 TRIMMING AND SHAPING the slant ended clippers are the easiest instrument to use for trimming. ! Picture "A" the slant ended clippers are the easiest instrument to use for trimming. Picture "A" TRIM TRIM ! brush the feathering FLAT to the surface of the canvas in the proper direction ! brush the feathering FLAT to the surface of the canvas in the proper direction ! edges may be smooth or ragged. ! edges may be smooth or ragged. ! check insert of individual pictures for requirements. ! check insert of individual pictures for requirements. Picture "B" Picture "B" FISH EYES FISH EYES The circular area of a fish eye is stitched first with regular 2/4 thread. To ensure that the shape and size of the pupil are kept as precise as possible, take a pattern of the pupil area with masking tape before doing any stitching. The pupil is made out of whole thread and later glued on top of the stitched area. The circular area of a fish eye is stitched first with regular 2/4 thread. To ensure that the shape and size of the pupil are kept as precise as possible, take a pattern of the pupil area with masking tape before doing any stitching. The pupil is made out of whole thread and later glued on top of the stitched area. 79 79 Supplies you will need: Rice Glue Scissors Masking tape Straight Pin Toothpick STEP 1 - PATTERN OF PUPIL ! Supplies you will need: Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye on the back of the canvas. For light-coloured canvas, hold the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. STEP 2 - MAKING THE PUPIL Rice Glue Scissors Masking tape Straight Pin Toothpick STEP 1 - PATTERN OF PUPIL ! Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye on the back of the canvas. For light-coloured canvas, hold the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. STEP 2 - MAKING THE PUPIL ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. ! Stick this cut end to the center of the masking tape tracing. ! Stick this cut end to the center of the masking tape tracing. ! Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. ! Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. 80 80 Supplies you will need: Rice Glue Scissors Masking tape Straight Pin Toothpick STEP 1 - PATTERN OF PUPIL ! Supplies you will need: Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye on the back of the canvas. For light-coloured canvas, hold the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. STEP 2 - MAKING THE PUPIL Rice Glue Scissors Masking tape Straight Pin Toothpick STEP 1 - PATTERN OF PUPIL ! Stick a small piece of masking tape behind the eye on the back of the canvas. For light-coloured canvas, hold the work frame up to the light and trace the outline of the whole eye onto the masking tape. For black canvas, use the straight pin to punch holes through the masking tape from the front of the canvas following the outline of the eye. STEP 2 - MAKING THE PUPIL ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. ! Taper the end of whole black bunka thread by cutting it on an angle. ! Stick this cut end to the center of the masking tape tracing. ! Stick this cut end to the center of the masking tape tracing. ! Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. ! Coil the whole thread around the center point until it covers the entire circle. If you are having difficulty starting the coil, use a toothpick or straight pin to hold down the thread in the center. 80 80 ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil. Set aside to dry. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil. Set aside to dry. STEP 3 - STITCHING ! ! STEP 3 - STITCHING Stitch each section of the eye with Satin Stitch in the appropriate colour. ! When stitching the round part, use Seaming technique to mark the outline of the pupil. ! STEP 4 - PLACEMENT OF PUPIL Stitch each section of the eye with Satin Stitch in the appropriate colour. When stitching the round part, use Seaming technique to mark the outline of the pupil. STEP 4 - PLACEMENT OF PUPIL ! Carefully peel the pupil from the masking tape. ! Carefully peel the pupil from the masking tape. ! Apply another thin layer of rice glue over the same side as was previously glued. ! Apply another thin layer of rice glue over the same side as was previously glued. ! Place on the stitching. ! Place on the stitching. ! Fish pupils do not have highlights. ! Fish pupils do not have highlights. STEP 5 - OUTLINE ! STEP 5 - OUTLINE Some of the edges can be outlined with a row of Running Stitch - refer to the insert. ! Some of the edges can be outlined with a row of Running Stitch - refer to the insert. 81 81 ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Cut the end on an angle and tuck it tight against the coil. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil. Set aside to dry. ! Spread a thin layer of rice glue over the coil. Set aside to dry. STEP 3 - STITCHING ! ! STEP 3 - STITCHING Stitch each section of the eye with Satin Stitch in the appropriate colour. ! When stitching the round part, use Seaming technique to mark the outline of the pupil. ! STEP 4 - PLACEMENT OF PUPIL Stitch each section of the eye with Satin Stitch in the appropriate colour. When stitching the round part, use Seaming technique to mark the outline of the pupil. STEP 4 - PLACEMENT OF PUPIL ! Carefully peel the pupil from the masking tape. ! Carefully peel the pupil from the masking tape. ! Apply another thin layer of rice glue over the same side as was previously glued. ! Apply another thin layer of rice glue over the same side as was previously glued. ! Place on the stitching. ! Place on the stitching. ! Fish pupils do not have highlights. ! Fish pupils do not have highlights. STEP 5 - OUTLINE ! STEP 5 - OUTLINE Some of the edges can be outlined with a row of Running Stitch - refer to the insert. 81 ! Some of the edges can be outlined with a row of Running Stitch - refer to the insert. 81 FISH, FEELERS & MOUTH FISH, FEELERS & MOUTH These areas are stitched after the head area is completed. 3/4 Polished Thread is placed over a padding layer. These areas are stitched after the head area is completed. 3/4 Polished Thread is placed over a padding layer. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad around each feeler and around the mouth or lip area. ! Line pad around each feeler and around the mouth or lip area. ! Fill in with Solid Padding in the direction indicated by the Padding Symbol. ! Fill in with Solid Padding in the direction indicated by the Padding Symbol. ! With 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, work over the padding with Satin Stitch on an angle. All the edges should be smooth and neat. ! With 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, work over the padding with Satin Stitch on an angle. All the edges should be smooth and neat. The tip of each feeler should end with a single thread to make it look sharp & pointed. ! Finish off by running an outline along the bottom edge of each feeler and the mouth. Refer to the insert. The tip of each feeler should end with a single thread to make it look sharp & pointed. ! 82 Finish off by running an outline along the bottom edge of each feeler and the mouth. Refer to the insert. 82 FISH, FEELERS & MOUTH FISH, FEELERS & MOUTH These areas are stitched after the head area is completed. 3/4 Polished Thread is placed over a padding layer. These areas are stitched after the head area is completed. 3/4 Polished Thread is placed over a padding layer. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad around each feeler and around the mouth or lip area. ! Line pad around each feeler and around the mouth or lip area. ! Fill in with Solid Padding in the direction indicated by the Padding Symbol. ! Fill in with Solid Padding in the direction indicated by the Padding Symbol. ! With 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, work over the padding with Satin Stitch on an angle. All the edges should be smooth and neat. ! With 3/4 Polished Thread in the appropriate colour, work over the padding with Satin Stitch on an angle. All the edges should be smooth and neat. The tip of each feeler should end with a single thread to make it look sharp & pointed. ! Finish off by running an outline along the bottom edge of each feeler and the mouth. Refer to the insert. 82 The tip of each feeler should end with a single thread to make it look sharp & pointed. ! Finish off by running an outline along the bottom edge of each feeler and the mouth. Refer to the insert. 82 FISH, SCALES FISH, SCALES Scales are stitched two times using Padding, Double Stitching technique. The top layer can be a different colour from the padding layer. Scales are stitched two times using Padding, Double Stitching technique. The top layer can be a different colour from the padding layer. Each scale should be clearly defined with a smooth indentation around the outer edge. Some scales are screen-printed with dark lines. The dark, thick screen-printing should be left showing between the scales thereby creating a definite space. The scales with light screen-printing will appear closer together and will be outlined. Each scale should be clearly defined with a smooth indentation around the outer edge. Some scales are screen-printed with dark lines. The dark, thick screen-printing should be left showing between the scales thereby creating a definite space. The scales with light screen-printing will appear closer together and will be outlined. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch direction for each scale follows the flow of the body from the tail up to the head. ! Stitch direction for each scale follows the flow of the body from the tail up to the head. ! To follow the natural overlapping effect of fish scales, complete one scale at a time, starting with the scales closest to the tail and working up to the head. ! To follow the natural overlapping effect of fish scales, complete one scale at a time, starting with the scales closest to the tail and working up to the head. ! Fill in with Satin Stitch, working inside the Screen-printed line. ! Fill in with Satin Stitch, working inside the Screen-printed line. ! To work the second layer, you do not have to cut the thread - On the last punch, leave the needle in the canvas, turn the work frame and stitch the top layer. ! To work the second layer, you do not have to cut the thread - On the last punch, leave the needle in the canvas, turn the work frame and stitch the top layer. 83 83 FISH, SCALES FISH, SCALES Scales are stitched two times using Padding, Double Stitching technique. The top layer can be a different colour from the padding layer. Scales are stitched two times using Padding, Double Stitching technique. The top layer can be a different colour from the padding layer. Each scale should be clearly defined with a smooth indentation around the outer edge. Some scales are screen-printed with dark lines. The dark, thick screen-printing should be left showing between the scales thereby creating a definite space. The scales with light screen-printing will appear closer together and will be outlined. Each scale should be clearly defined with a smooth indentation around the outer edge. Some scales are screen-printed with dark lines. The dark, thick screen-printing should be left showing between the scales thereby creating a definite space. The scales with light screen-printing will appear closer together and will be outlined. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch direction for each scale follows the flow of the body from the tail up to the head. ! Stitch direction for each scale follows the flow of the body from the tail up to the head. ! To follow the natural overlapping effect of fish scales, complete one scale at a time, starting with the scales closest to the tail and working up to the head. ! To follow the natural overlapping effect of fish scales, complete one scale at a time, starting with the scales closest to the tail and working up to the head. ! Fill in with Satin Stitch, working inside the Screen-printed line. ! Fill in with Satin Stitch, working inside the Screen-printed line. ! To work the second layer, you do not have to cut the thread - On the last punch, leave the needle in the canvas, turn the work frame and stitch the top layer. ! To work the second layer, you do not have to cut the thread - On the last punch, leave the needle in the canvas, turn the work frame and stitch the top layer. 83 83 ! Outline the scales which were screen-printed with the light lines one at a time with the appropriate colour. FISH, STITCH ORDER ! Outline the scales which were screen-printed with the light lines one at a time with the appropriate colour. FISH, STITCH ORDER ! Complete any fins that are behind the body of the fish. ! Complete any fins that are behind the body of the fish. ! Stitch the scales starting from the tail and working towards the head. ! Stitch the scales starting from the tail and working towards the head. ! Stitch the head. ! Stitch the head. ! Stitch the eye. ! Stitch the eye. ! Pad and stitch the mouth and feelers. ! Pad and stitch the mouth and feelers. ! Complete the dorsal fin and any fins that are in front of the body. ! Complete the dorsal fin and any fins that are in front of the body. FLAT STITCH FLAT STITCH (also referred to as Sky Stitch) (also referred to as Sky Stitch) Consists of rows of Running Stitch stitched sideby-side creating an area of very smooth, even stitching which lies very flat to the canvas. Consists of rows of Running Stitch stitched sideby-side creating an area of very smooth, even stitching which lies very flat to the canvas. APPLICATION APPLICATION All areas that require 2 or more stitches to cover; example: sky, water, etc. Rows of sky or water areas should always be perfectly horizontal. All areas that require 2 or more stitches to cover; example: sky, water, etc. Rows of sky or water areas should always be perfectly horizontal. 84 ! Outline the scales which were screen-printed with the light lines one at a time with the appropriate colour. FISH, STITCH ORDER 84 ! Outline the scales which were screen-printed with the light lines one at a time with the appropriate colour. FISH, STITCH ORDER ! Complete any fins that are behind the body of the fish. ! Complete any fins that are behind the body of the fish. ! Stitch the scales starting from the tail and working towards the head. ! Stitch the scales starting from the tail and working towards the head. ! Stitch the head. ! Stitch the head. ! Stitch the eye. ! Stitch the eye. ! Pad and stitch the mouth and feelers. ! Pad and stitch the mouth and feelers. ! Complete the dorsal fin and any fins that are in front of the body. ! Complete the dorsal fin and any fins that are in front of the body. FLAT STITCH FLAT STITCH (also referred to as Sky Stitch) (also referred to as Sky Stitch) Consists of rows of Running Stitch stitched sideby-side creating an area of very smooth, even stitching which lies very flat to the canvas. Consists of rows of Running Stitch stitched sideby-side creating an area of very smooth, even stitching which lies very flat to the canvas. APPLICATION APPLICATION All areas that require 2 or more stitches to cover; example: sky, water, etc. Rows of sky or water areas should always be perfectly horizontal. All areas that require 2 or more stitches to cover; example: sky, water, etc. Rows of sky or water areas should always be perfectly horizontal. 84 84 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Important - use one of the fingers of your left hand under the canvas. As the needle is withdrawn, press your fingertip gently on the point of the needle. When the needle is pulled completely back, the loop of the thread is pressed securely under your finger. Proceed to the next stitch and repeat. Your left hand finger will move along the back of the canvas in this manner. With experience, this action will become automatic. Be careful not to punch your finger! ! Important - use one of the fingers of your left hand under the canvas. As the needle is withdrawn, press your fingertip gently on the point of the needle. When the needle is pulled completely back, the loop of the thread is pressed securely under your finger. Proceed to the next stitch and repeat. Your left hand finger will move along the back of the canvas in this manner. With experience, this action will become automatic. Be careful not to punch your finger! ! Turn the work frame so that the rows are worked up and down the area, moving left to right across the canvas. For proper stitch alignment, never try to do Flat Stitching by working horizontally across the canvas. ! Turn the work frame so that the rows are worked up and down the area, moving left to right across the canvas. For proper stitch alignment, never try to do Flat Stitching by working horizontally across the canvas. ! Turn the work frame so that the top of the area is positioned on the left hand side. When you start stitching the rows the needle should be moving towards and away from your body. ! Turn the work frame so that the top of the area is positioned on the left hand side. When you start stitching the rows the needle should be moving towards and away from your body. 85 TECHNIQUE 85 TECHNIQUE ! Important - use one of the fingers of your left hand under the canvas. As the needle is withdrawn, press your fingertip gently on the point of the needle. When the needle is pulled completely back, the loop of the thread is pressed securely under your finger. Proceed to the next stitch and repeat. Your left hand finger will move along the back of the canvas in this manner. With experience, this action will become automatic. Be careful not to punch your finger! ! Important - use one of the fingers of your left hand under the canvas. As the needle is withdrawn, press your fingertip gently on the point of the needle. When the needle is pulled completely back, the loop of the thread is pressed securely under your finger. Proceed to the next stitch and repeat. Your left hand finger will move along the back of the canvas in this manner. With experience, this action will become automatic. Be careful not to punch your finger! ! Turn the work frame so that the rows are worked up and down the area, moving left to right across the canvas. For proper stitch alignment, never try to do Flat Stitching by working horizontally across the canvas. ! Turn the work frame so that the rows are worked up and down the area, moving left to right across the canvas. For proper stitch alignment, never try to do Flat Stitching by working horizontally across the canvas. ! Turn the work frame so that the top of the area is positioned on the left hand side. When you start stitching the rows the needle should be moving towards and away from your body. ! Turn the work frame so that the top of the area is positioned on the left hand side. When you start stitching the rows the needle should be moving towards and away from your body. 85 85 ! Since a 'punch mark' is created at the point where the needle has gone through the canvas, it is necessary to stagger the stitch length on subsequent rows to avoid creating a line of punch marks. To do this vary the stitch length from 1/4" to 3/4" (never any longer than this). ! Since a 'punch mark' is created at the point where the needle has gone through the canvas, it is necessary to stagger the stitch length on subsequent rows to avoid creating a line of punch marks. To do this vary the stitch length from 1/4" to 3/4" (never any longer than this). ! When stitching the background area (sky, water, etc.) the stitches run in horizontal rows, back and forth. If a cloud or mountain is in the stitching path, you must work your rows back and forth from this item. After you have finished working along one side of the cloud, cut your thread and return back to the other side and continue. Use Seaming technique to mark thin line markings (eg. tip of tree branch). ! When stitching the background area (sky, water, etc.) the stitches run in horizontal rows, back and forth. If a cloud or mountain is in the stitching path, you must work your rows back and forth from this item. After you have finished working along one side of the cloud, cut your thread and return back to the other side and continue. Use Seaming technique to mark thin line markings (eg. tip of tree branch). FIRST ROW FIRST ROW 1. With a flat stitch needle (short shank) threaded with 2/4 pull thread, punch in and pull the end to the back of the canvas. 1. With a flat stitch needle (short shank) threaded with 2/4 pull thread, punch in and pull the end to the back of the canvas. 2. Work one row of Running Stitch with the Headlight pointing in the stitch direction. 2. Work one row of Running Stitch with the Headlight pointing in the stitch direction. 3. On the last stitch of the row, turn the Headlight so that it is pointing back along the first row. 3. On the last stitch of the row, turn the Headlight so that it is pointing back along the first row. 86 86 ! Since a 'punch mark' is created at the point where the needle has gone through the canvas, it is necessary to stagger the stitch length on subsequent rows to avoid creating a line of punch marks. To do this vary the stitch length from 1/4" to 3/4" (never any longer than this). ! Since a 'punch mark' is created at the point where the needle has gone through the canvas, it is necessary to stagger the stitch length on subsequent rows to avoid creating a line of punch marks. To do this vary the stitch length from 1/4" to 3/4" (never any longer than this). ! When stitching the background area (sky, water, etc.) the stitches run in horizontal rows, back and forth. If a cloud or mountain is in the stitching path, you must work your rows back and forth from this item. After you have finished working along one side of the cloud, cut your thread and return back to the other side and continue. Use Seaming technique to mark thin line markings (eg. tip of tree branch). ! When stitching the background area (sky, water, etc.) the stitches run in horizontal rows, back and forth. If a cloud or mountain is in the stitching path, you must work your rows back and forth from this item. After you have finished working along one side of the cloud, cut your thread and return back to the other side and continue. Use Seaming technique to mark thin line markings (eg. tip of tree branch). FIRST ROW FIRST ROW 1. With a flat stitch needle (short shank) threaded with 2/4 pull thread, punch in and pull the end to the back of the canvas. 1. With a flat stitch needle (short shank) threaded with 2/4 pull thread, punch in and pull the end to the back of the canvas. 2. Work one row of Running Stitch with the Headlight pointing in the stitch direction. 2. Work one row of Running Stitch with the Headlight pointing in the stitch direction. 3. On the last stitch of the row, turn the Headlight so that it is pointing back along the first row. 3. On the last stitch of the row, turn the Headlight so that it is pointing back along the first row. 86 86 SECOND ROW SECOND ROW 4. Vary the stitch length on this row so that the punch marks are staggered. The thread should be laying right beside the first row; not on top, no spaces in between. 4. Vary the stitch length on this row so that the punch marks are staggered. The thread should be laying right beside the first row; not on top, no spaces in between. Continue working the rows in this manner, trying to keep the stitching flat to the canvas; no spaces between the rows; but not bunched together. Continue working the rows in this manner, trying to keep the stitching flat to the canvas; no spaces between the rows; but not bunched together. To blend rows of Flat Stitch use the technique described in 'Row Blending'. To blend rows of Flat Stitch use the technique described in 'Row Blending'. FLOWERS, CENTRES FLOWERS, CENTRES Techniques used for completing the center area of a flower are unique to each picture. Some kits will give instructions for stitching this area, if not refer to the coloured side of the insert. Techniques used for completing the center area of a flower are unique to each picture. Some kits will give instructions for stitching this area, if not refer to the coloured side of the insert. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Some commonly used stitches are Reverse, Satin, Blizzard, Outline. Some commonly used stitches are Reverse, Satin, Blizzard, Outline. Reverse Satin Blizzard Reverse Satin Blizzard 87 87 SECOND ROW SECOND ROW 4. Vary the stitch length on this row so that the punch marks are staggered. The thread should be laying right beside the first row; not on top, no spaces in between. 4. Vary the stitch length on this row so that the punch marks are staggered. The thread should be laying right beside the first row; not on top, no spaces in between. Continue working the rows in this manner, trying to keep the stitching flat to the canvas; no spaces between the rows; but not bunched together. Continue working the rows in this manner, trying to keep the stitching flat to the canvas; no spaces between the rows; but not bunched together. To blend rows of Flat Stitch use the technique described in 'Row Blending'. To blend rows of Flat Stitch use the technique described in 'Row Blending'. FLOWERS, CENTRES FLOWERS, CENTRES Techniques used for completing the center area of a flower are unique to each picture. Some kits will give instructions for stitching this area, if not refer to the coloured side of the insert. Techniques used for completing the center area of a flower are unique to each picture. Some kits will give instructions for stitching this area, if not refer to the coloured side of the insert. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Some commonly used stitches are Reverse, Satin, Blizzard, Outline. Some commonly used stitches are Reverse, Satin, Blizzard, Outline. Reverse Satin Blizzard 87 Reverse Satin Blizzard 87 FLOWERS, PETAL SEPARATION FLOWERS, PETAL SEPARATION This technique, also referred to as Voiding creates a distinct space between each petal by leaving approx. 1 - 2mm of blank canvas around each petal. This technique, also referred to as Voiding creates a distinct space between each petal by leaving approx. 1 - 2mm of blank canvas around each petal. VOID APPLICATION - FLOWERS APPLICATION - FLOWERS TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! ! Line pad the outer edge of the petal. ! Stitch the topmost section of each petal first, then the second blending, etc. working down to the bottom edge of each petal. This stitch order will help to judge the distance of space before going on to the next petal. ! 88 Line pad the outer edge of the petal. Stitch the topmost section of each petal first, then the second blending, etc. working down to the bottom edge of each petal. This stitch order will help to judge the distance of space before going on to the next petal. 88 FLOWERS, PETAL SEPARATION FLOWERS, PETAL SEPARATION This technique, also referred to as Voiding creates a distinct space between each petal by leaving approx. 1 - 2mm of blank canvas around each petal. This technique, also referred to as Voiding creates a distinct space between each petal by leaving approx. 1 - 2mm of blank canvas around each petal. VOID APPLICATION - FLOWERS APPLICATION - FLOWERS TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! ! Line pad the outer edge of the petal. Stitch the topmost section of each petal first, then the second blending, etc. working down to the bottom edge of each petal. This stitch order will help to judge the distance of space before going on to the next petal. 88 VOID ! ! VOID Line pad the outer edge of the petal. Stitch the topmost section of each petal first, then the second blending, etc. working down to the bottom edge of each petal. This stitch order will help to judge the distance of space before going on to the next petal. 88 FLOWERS, ROLLOVERS/ ROLLUNDERS FLOWERS, ROLLOVERS/ ROLLUNDERS Petals of many flowers have turned edges which are called rollovers or rollunders. Petals of many flowers have turned edges which are called rollovers or rollunders. 1. ROLLOVER 1. ROLLOVER The rollover is turned forward to the foreground and must therefore be completed after the body of the petal. Each rollover is usually marked with the Solid Padding Symbol ( ). The rollover is turned forward to the foreground and must therefore be completed after the body of the petal. Each rollover is usually marked with the Solid Padding Symbol ( ). TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad entire rollover ! Line pad entire rollover ! Fill in with solid padding - the single line of the symbol indicates direction for the padding. ! Fill in with solid padding - the single line of the symbol indicates direction for the padding. ! Overstitch in the direction of the double line of the Padding symbol with single length Satin Stitch. ! Overstitch in the direction of the double line of the Padding symbol with single length Satin Stitch. 89 89 FLOWERS, ROLLOVERS/ ROLLUNDERS FLOWERS, ROLLOVERS/ ROLLUNDERS Petals of many flowers have turned edges which are called rollovers or rollunders. Petals of many flowers have turned edges which are called rollovers or rollunders. 1. ROLLOVER 1. ROLLOVER The rollover is turned forward to the foreground and must therefore be completed after the body of the petal. Each rollover is usually marked with the Solid Padding Symbol ( ). The rollover is turned forward to the foreground and must therefore be completed after the body of the petal. Each rollover is usually marked with the Solid Padding Symbol ( ). TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad entire rollover ! Line pad entire rollover ! Fill in with solid padding - the single line of the symbol indicates direction for the padding. ! Fill in with solid padding - the single line of the symbol indicates direction for the padding. ! Overstitch in the direction of the double line of the Padding symbol with single length Satin Stitch. ! Overstitch in the direction of the double line of the Padding symbol with single length Satin Stitch. 89 89 2. ROLLUNDER 2. ROLLUNDER The roll under is turned back to the background and should therefore be completed before the body of the petal. The roll under is turned back to the background and should therefore be completed before the body of the petal. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Stitch in the proper direction (no other padding required). ! Stitch in the proper direction (no other padding required). Complete the body of the petal. Complete the body of the petal. FLOWERS, STEMS FLOWERS, STEMS TYPE OF STEM POSSIBLE TECHNIQUES TYPE OF STEM POSSIBLE TECHNIQUES Thin Stems Running Stitch, Split Stitch, Cord Stitch. Thin Stems Running Stitch, Split Stitch, Cord Stitch. Medium Stem Flat Stitch (2-3 rows of Running Stitch placed side by side). Satin Stitch. Medium Stem Flat Stitch (2-3 rows of Running Stitch placed side by side). Satin Stitch. Thick Stems Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Flat Stitch, Inlay. Thick Stems Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Flat Stitch, Inlay. 90 90 2. ROLLUNDER 2. ROLLUNDER The roll under is turned back to the background and should therefore be completed before the body of the petal. The roll under is turned back to the background and should therefore be completed before the body of the petal. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Stitch in the proper direction (no other padding required). ! Stitch in the proper direction (no other padding required). Complete the body of the petal. Complete the body of the petal. FLOWERS, STEMS FLOWERS, STEMS TYPE OF STEM POSSIBLE TECHNIQUES TYPE OF STEM POSSIBLE TECHNIQUES Thin Stems Running Stitch, Split Stitch, Cord Stitch. Thin Stems Running Stitch, Split Stitch, Cord Stitch. Medium Stem Flat Stitch (2-3 rows of Running Stitch placed side by side). Satin Stitch. Medium Stem Flat Stitch (2-3 rows of Running Stitch placed side by side). Satin Stitch. Thick Stems Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Flat Stitch, Inlay. Thick Stems Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Flat Stitch, Inlay. 90 90 FLOWERS, ORDER OF STITCHERY FLOWERS, ORDER OF STITCHERY The sequence that the petals are stitched is extremely important. The basic concept of stitching the background first applies even more so for floral stitchery. The sequence that the petals are stitched is extremely important. The basic concept of stitching the background first applies even more so for floral stitchery. Floral pictures utilize a wide variety of stitch techniques, such as Line Padding, Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Reverse Stitch, etc. Floral pictures utilize a wide variety of stitch techniques, such as Line Padding, Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Reverse Stitch, etc. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Start with the petal that is farthest away. Each petal must be completely finished before moving on to the petal in front of it. ! Start with the petal that is farthest away. Each petal must be completely finished before moving on to the petal in front of it. ! Line pad around the outer edge. Complete the petal. ! Line pad around the outer edge. Complete the petal. ! Move to the next furthest petal; line pad and stitch. ! Move to the next furthest petal; line pad and stitch. 91 91 FLOWERS, ORDER OF STITCHERY FLOWERS, ORDER OF STITCHERY The sequence that the petals are stitched is extremely important. The basic concept of stitching the background first applies even more so for floral stitchery. The sequence that the petals are stitched is extremely important. The basic concept of stitching the background first applies even more so for floral stitchery. Floral pictures utilize a wide variety of stitch techniques, such as Line Padding, Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Reverse Stitch, etc. Floral pictures utilize a wide variety of stitch techniques, such as Line Padding, Solid Padding, Satin Stitch, Reverse Stitch, etc. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Start with the petal that is farthest away. Each petal must be completely finished before moving on to the petal in front of it. ! Start with the petal that is farthest away. Each petal must be completely finished before moving on to the petal in front of it. ! Line pad around the outer edge. Complete the petal. ! Line pad around the outer edge. Complete the petal. ! Move to the next furthest petal; line pad and stitch. ! Move to the next furthest petal; line pad and stitch. 91 91 Rollovers are the last area to be stitched on a flower. Rollovers are the last area to be stitched on a flower. Roll under should be stitched before the body of the petal. (see Flower, Rollover/Rollunder). Roll under should be stitched before the body of the petal. (see Flower, Rollover/Rollunder). Buds: Buds: ! The overlapping petals of the bud must be stitched from the background to the foreground. ! The overlapping petals of the bud must be stitched from the background to the foreground. ! The body of the bud should be stitched before the calyx. The calyx should be line padded along the upper edge where it meets the bud. ! The body of the bud should be stitched before the calyx. The calyx should be line padded along the upper edge where it meets the bud. FLUFFY STITCH FLUFFY STITCH (See also Fluffy Pictures) (See also Fluffy Pictures) Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side, of the canvas. This will be the back or wrong side of the finished picture. By turning over the work frame to the right side, you can see the loops left by the needle. These loops will be brushed out with a special bunka brush which separates the thread into soft mohair-like fibers. If there is any flat stitching on the picture, all the fluffy areas must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side, of the canvas. This will be the back or wrong side of the finished picture. By turning over the work frame to the right side, you can see the loops left by the needle. These loops will be brushed out with a special bunka brush which separates the thread into soft mohair-like fibers. If there is any flat stitching on the picture, all the fluffy areas must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. 92 92 Rollovers are the last area to be stitched on a flower. Rollovers are the last area to be stitched on a flower. Roll under should be stitched before the body of the petal. (see Flower, Rollover/Rollunder). Roll under should be stitched before the body of the petal. (see Flower, Rollover/Rollunder). Buds: Buds: ! The overlapping petals of the bud must be stitched from the background to the foreground. ! The overlapping petals of the bud must be stitched from the background to the foreground. ! The body of the bud should be stitched before the calyx. The calyx should be line padded along the upper edge where it meets the bud. ! The body of the bud should be stitched before the calyx. The calyx should be line padded along the upper edge where it meets the bud. FLUFFY STITCH FLUFFY STITCH (See also Fluffy Pictures) (See also Fluffy Pictures) Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side, of the canvas. This will be the back or wrong side of the finished picture. By turning over the work frame to the right side, you can see the loops left by the needle. These loops will be brushed out with a special bunka brush which separates the thread into soft mohair-like fibers. If there is any flat stitching on the picture, all the fluffy areas must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. Fluffy or Pile stitch is worked on the screenprinted side, of the canvas. This will be the back or wrong side of the finished picture. By turning over the work frame to the right side, you can see the loops left by the needle. These loops will be brushed out with a special bunka brush which separates the thread into soft mohair-like fibers. If there is any flat stitching on the picture, all the fluffy areas must be completed first since the brushing action will easily pull out the flat stitching. 92 92 Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. 2/4 pull and 1/4 pull thread can be used. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. 2/4 pull and 1/4 pull thread can be used. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. APPLICATION APPLICATION As well as being used for full pictures, fluffy stitch can also be used for small accent areas on a flat stitch picture such as flower centers; as a padding layer (eg. Ballerina Kit), etc.. As well as being used for full pictures, fluffy stitch can also be used for small accent areas on a flat stitch picture such as flower centers; as a padding layer (eg. Ballerina Kit), etc.. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! It is important that the needle be inserted to the full depth of the shank with each stitch to produce the desired loop height. ! It is important that the needle be inserted to the full depth of the shank with each stitch to produce the desired loop height. ! The motion of the needle when working Fluffy stitch can be compared to the up and down movement of a sewing machine needle. ! The motion of the needle when working Fluffy stitch can be compared to the up and down movement of a sewing machine needle. 93 93 Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. Fluffy pictures can be stitched using either the fluffy needle (long shank) or the flat needle (short shank). The loops created on the back of the canvas by a fluffy needle will be much longer than those created by a flat needle due to the longer shank which results in longer loops. For new stitchers working on their first fluffy, the fluffy needle is recommended since the longer loops are easier to brush out. 2/4 pull and 1/4 pull thread can be used. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. 2/4 pull and 1/4 pull thread can be used. Due to the thickness of 3/4 pull, it will not brush out and must be avoided on fluffy work at all times. APPLICATION APPLICATION As well as being used for full pictures, fluffy stitch can also be used for small accent areas on a flat stitch picture such as flower centers; as a padding layer (eg. Ballerina Kit), etc.. As well as being used for full pictures, fluffy stitch can also be used for small accent areas on a flat stitch picture such as flower centers; as a padding layer (eg. Ballerina Kit), etc.. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! It is important that the needle be inserted to the full depth of the shank with each stitch to produce the desired loop height. ! It is important that the needle be inserted to the full depth of the shank with each stitch to produce the desired loop height. ! The motion of the needle when working Fluffy stitch can be compared to the up and down movement of a sewing machine needle. ! The motion of the needle when working Fluffy stitch can be compared to the up and down movement of a sewing machine needle. 93 93 ! Position the needle so that the Headlight is pointing in the direction of stitching. ! Position the needle so that the Headlight is pointing in the direction of stitching. ! To ensure that the small areas remain welldefined it is important that the larger areas are stitched first, then the smaller sections. ! To ensure that the small areas remain welldefined it is important that the larger areas are stitched first, then the smaller sections. ! Light coloured areas should be stitched slightly thicker than the dark shades. ! Light coloured areas should be stitched slightly thicker than the dark shades. ! The areas shaded with lines are not to be stitched. These are spaces usually allotted for insertion of a plastic nose or eyes after stitching is completed. ! The areas shaded with lines are not to be stitched. These are spaces usually allotted for insertion of a plastic nose or eyes after stitching is completed. ! Rows of fluffy stitches can be done in any direction. The stiitches should be about 1/16" apart and the rows about 1/8" apart so that on the stitching side some canvas will be visible between the rows; on the brushing side, the area should be completely covered with evenly spaced loose - not crammed together. ! Rows of fluffy stitches can be done in any direction. The stiitches should be about 1/16" apart and the rows about 1/8" apart so that on the stitching side some canvas will be visible between the rows; on the brushing side, the area should be completely covered with evenly spaced loose - not crammed together. START START 1. Thread up the fluffy (long shank) needle with 2/4 pull in a colour form one of the larger areas of the picture. 1. Thread up the fluffy (long shank) needle with 2/4 pull in a colour form one of the larger areas of the picture. 2. With the printed side facing you, push your chair back until the top edge of the work frame is resting comfortably between a table edge and your lap. To avoid damaging the needle it is important that there is nothing under the canvas that the needle could hit. 2. With the printed side facing you, push your chair back until the top edge of the work frame is resting comfortably between a table edge and your lap. To avoid damaging the needle it is important that there is nothing under the canvas that the needle could hit. 94 94 ! Position the needle so that the Headlight is pointing in the direction of stitching. ! Position the needle so that the Headlight is pointing in the direction of stitching. ! To ensure that the small areas remain welldefined it is important that the larger areas are stitched first, then the smaller sections. ! To ensure that the small areas remain welldefined it is important that the larger areas are stitched first, then the smaller sections. ! Light coloured areas should be stitched slightly thicker than the dark shades. ! Light coloured areas should be stitched slightly thicker than the dark shades. ! The areas shaded with lines are not to be stitched. These are spaces usually allotted for insertion of a plastic nose or eyes after stitching is completed. ! The areas shaded with lines are not to be stitched. These are spaces usually allotted for insertion of a plastic nose or eyes after stitching is completed. ! Rows of fluffy stitches can be done in any direction. The stiitches should be about 1/16" apart and the rows about 1/8" apart so that on the stitching side some canvas will be visible between the rows; on the brushing side, the area should be completely covered with evenly spaced loose - not crammed together. ! Rows of fluffy stitches can be done in any direction. The stiitches should be about 1/16" apart and the rows about 1/8" apart so that on the stitching side some canvas will be visible between the rows; on the brushing side, the area should be completely covered with evenly spaced loose - not crammed together. START START 1. Thread up the fluffy (long shank) needle with 2/4 pull in a colour form one of the larger areas of the picture. 1. Thread up the fluffy (long shank) needle with 2/4 pull in a colour form one of the larger areas of the picture. 2. With the printed side facing you, push your chair back until the top edge of the work frame is resting comfortably between a table edge and your lap. To avoid damaging the needle it is important that there is nothing under the canvas that the needle could hit. 2. With the printed side facing you, push your chair back until the top edge of the work frame is resting comfortably between a table edge and your lap. To avoid damaging the needle it is important that there is nothing under the canvas that the needle could hit. 94 94 3. Hold the needle like a pencil, resting the edge of your hand on the canvas. 3. Hold the needle like a pencil, resting the edge of your hand on the canvas. 4. Punch the needle through to its full depth. 4. Punch the needle through to its full depth. 5. Slowly raise the 1/8” stitches needle up out of Stitching side the canvas, keeping the Finished side point as close as possible to the canvas - Do not lift the needle away from the surface of the canvas - and punch right down again. The stitch will be about 1/16" long. 5. Slowly raise the 1/8” stitches needle up out of Stitching side the canvas, keeping the Finished side point as close as possible to the canvas - Do not lift the needle away from the surface of the canvas - and punch right down again. The stitch will be about 1/16" long. The thread must be anchored at the beginning and end of an area to prevent it from pulling out during the brushing stage. The thread must be anchored at the beginning and end of an area to prevent it from pulling out during the brushing stage. 6. To anchor the thread punch three stitches; turn the headlight and punch back directly on top of the first three stitches. 6. To anchor the thread punch three stitches; turn the headlight and punch back directly on top of the first three stitches. 7. Continue on with the first row in the direction of your choice. 7. Continue on with the first row in the direction of your choice. 95 95 3. Hold the needle like a pencil, resting the edge of your hand on the canvas. 3. Hold the needle like a pencil, resting the edge of your hand on the canvas. 4. Punch the needle through to its full depth. 4. Punch the needle through to its full depth. 5. Slowly raise the 1/8” stitches needle up out of Stitching side the canvas, keeping the Finished side point as close as possible to the canvas - Do not lift the needle away from the surface of the canvas - and punch right down again. The stitch will be about 1/16" long. 5. Slowly raise the 1/8” stitches needle up out of Stitching side the canvas, keeping the Finished side point as close as possible to the canvas - Do not lift the needle away from the surface of the canvas - and punch right down again. The stitch will be about 1/16" long. The thread must be anchored at the beginning and end of an area to prevent it from pulling out during the brushing stage. The thread must be anchored at the beginning and end of an area to prevent it from pulling out during the brushing stage. 6. To anchor the thread punch three stitches; turn the headlight and punch back directly on top of the first three stitches. 6. To anchor the thread punch three stitches; turn the headlight and punch back directly on top of the first three stitches. 7. Continue on with the first row in the direction of your choice. 7. Continue on with the first row in the direction of your choice. 95 95 8. On each subsequent row, turn the headlight until it is pointing back along the direction of the first or previous row. 8. On each subsequent row, turn the headlight until it is pointing back along the direction of the first or previous row. 9. Rows should be spaced approx. 1/8" apart. Continue working the rows in this manner until the area is filled. 9. Rows should be spaced approx. 1/8" apart. Continue working the rows in this manner until the area is filled. TO STOP TO STOP 10. When an area is completed, the thread must be anchored by back-tracking directly on top of the previous three stitches. 10. When an area is completed, the thread must be anchored by back-tracking directly on top of the previous three stitches. 11. Lift the needle out of the canvas until there is about 1/4" of thread. Cut the thread close to the needle. 11. Lift the needle out of the canvas until there is about 1/4" of thread. Cut the thread close to the needle. BRUSHING BRUSHING The brushing is performed on the loop side of the canvas, i.e. turn the stitching side of the canvas over so that the loops are facing you. The purpose of brushing is to turn all the knobs or loops of thread into a fluffy mohair-like texture. The brushing is performed on the loop side of the canvas, i.e. turn the stitching side of the canvas over so that the loops are facing you. The purpose of brushing is to turn all the knobs or loops of thread into a fluffy mohair-like texture. The metal brush is specially designed to grip and separate the thread. For easier handling the brush can be attached to a 6" wooden dowel by removing the staple which joins the two ends of the rubber strap on the brush and re-stapling it onto the dowel. The metal brush is specially designed to grip and separate the thread. For easier handling the brush can be attached to a 6" wooden dowel by removing the staple which joins the two ends of the rubber strap on the brush and re-stapling it onto the dowel. 96 96 8. On each subsequent row, turn the headlight until it is pointing back along the direction of the first or previous row. 8. On each subsequent row, turn the headlight until it is pointing back along the direction of the first or previous row. 9. Rows should be spaced approx. 1/8" apart. Continue working the rows in this manner until the area is filled. 9. Rows should be spaced approx. 1/8" apart. Continue working the rows in this manner until the area is filled. TO STOP TO STOP 10. When an area is completed, the thread must be anchored by back-tracking directly on top of the previous three stitches. 10. When an area is completed, the thread must be anchored by back-tracking directly on top of the previous three stitches. 11. Lift the needle out of the canvas until there is about 1/4" of thread. Cut the thread close to the needle. 11. Lift the needle out of the canvas until there is about 1/4" of thread. Cut the thread close to the needle. BRUSHING BRUSHING The brushing is performed on the loop side of the canvas, i.e. turn the stitching side of the canvas over so that the loops are facing you. The purpose of brushing is to turn all the knobs or loops of thread into a fluffy mohair-like texture. The brushing is performed on the loop side of the canvas, i.e. turn the stitching side of the canvas over so that the loops are facing you. The purpose of brushing is to turn all the knobs or loops of thread into a fluffy mohair-like texture. The metal brush is specially designed to grip and separate the thread. For easier handling the brush can be attached to a 6" wooden dowel by removing the staple which joins the two ends of the rubber strap on the brush and re-stapling it onto the dowel. The metal brush is specially designed to grip and separate the thread. For easier handling the brush can be attached to a 6" wooden dowel by removing the staple which joins the two ends of the rubber strap on the brush and re-stapling it onto the dowel. 96 96 1. To protect the canvas from the effects of the brush, place a row of masking tape around the picture by tearing off small pieces and placing them as close to the stitching as possible without catching any loops. 1. To protect the canvas from the effects of the brush, place a row of masking tape around the picture by tearing off small pieces and placing them as close to the stitching as possible without catching any loops. 2. Place a second row of tape around the first. 2. Place a second row of tape around the first. 3. Hold the brush so that the teeth are bent towards you. Push the brush firmly down into the loops. Bring the brush up through the loops with a lifting motion. By using this lifting technique, the thread will start to separate. 3. Hold the brush so that the teeth are bent towards you. Push the brush firmly down into the loops. Bring the brush up through the loops with a lifting motion. By using this lifting technique, the thread will start to separate. 4. The odd time an end (either a 'start' or a 'stop') that has not been anchored properly will pull free. It is very important to cut this thread to prevent the other stitches from unraveling - clip the end to the same height as the surrounding loops. 4. The odd time an end (either a 'start' or a 'stop') that has not been anchored properly will pull free. It is very important to cut this thread to prevent the other stitches from unraveling - clip the end to the same height as the surrounding loops. 5. To produce full, soft fluff it is important that most of the loops are brushed out. By massaging your finger down through the threads, you will be able to feel the knobs of un-brushed thread. Separate the threads and try to get at as many of these knobs as possible. 5. To produce full, soft fluff it is important that most of the loops are brushed out. By massaging your finger down through the threads, you will be able to feel the knobs of un-brushed thread. Separate the threads and try to get at as many of these knobs as possible. 97 97 1. To protect the canvas from the effects of the brush, place a row of masking tape around the picture by tearing off small pieces and placing them as close to the stitching as possible without catching any loops. 1. To protect the canvas from the effects of the brush, place a row of masking tape around the picture by tearing off small pieces and placing them as close to the stitching as possible without catching any loops. 2. Place a second row of tape around the first. 2. Place a second row of tape around the first. 3. Hold the brush so that the teeth are bent towards you. Push the brush firmly down into the loops. Bring the brush up through the loops with a lifting motion. By using this lifting technique, the thread will start to separate. 3. Hold the brush so that the teeth are bent towards you. Push the brush firmly down into the loops. Bring the brush up through the loops with a lifting motion. By using this lifting technique, the thread will start to separate. 4. The odd time an end (either a 'start' or a 'stop') that has not been anchored properly will pull free. It is very important to cut this thread to prevent the other stitches from unraveling - clip the end to the same height as the surrounding loops. 4. The odd time an end (either a 'start' or a 'stop') that has not been anchored properly will pull free. It is very important to cut this thread to prevent the other stitches from unraveling - clip the end to the same height as the surrounding loops. 5. To produce full, soft fluff it is important that most of the loops are brushed out. By massaging your finger down through the threads, you will be able to feel the knobs of un-brushed thread. Separate the threads and try to get at as many of these knobs as possible. 5. To produce full, soft fluff it is important that most of the loops are brushed out. By massaging your finger down through the threads, you will be able to feel the knobs of un-brushed thread. Separate the threads and try to get at as many of these knobs as possible. 97 97 The knobs at the edges of fluffy areas are some times difficult to get completely brushed out. Use the point of a bunka needle to carefully pick at these loops to get them to fluff. 6. The knobs at the edges of fluffy areas are some times difficult to get completely brushed out. Use the point of a bunka needle to carefully pick at these loops to get them to fluff. 6. SCULPTURING SCULPTURING By trimming down the fluff the design areas become more distinct and instead of being fluffy, the stitching will take on a more velvety texture. With your bunka brush raise the fluff so that it is standing straight up, then start cutting off the desired amount. The edges of a sculptured design look nicer when they have been angled on a smooth down to the canvas. By trimming down the fluff the design areas become more distinct and instead of being fluffy, the stitching will take on a more velvety texture. With your bunka brush raise the fluff so that it is standing straight up, then start cutting off the desired amount. The edges of a sculptured design look nicer when they have been angled on a smooth down to the canvas. FLUFFY ANIMALS FLUFFY ANIMALS Finishing Touches: Finishing Touches: PLASTIC EYES AND NOSE - Cut a small hole in the center of the area and push through the post of the eye/nose. PLASTIC EYES AND NOSE - Cut a small hole in the center of the area and push through the post of the eye/nose. FLOWERS - Can be sewn on with needle and thread or insert the end through a small hole cut in the canvas. Secure on the back with a piece of tape. FLOWERS - Can be sewn on with needle and thread or insert the end through a small hole cut in the canvas. Secure on the back with a piece of tape. 98 98 The knobs at the edges of fluffy areas are some times difficult to get completely brushed out. Use the point of a bunka needle to carefully pick at these loops to get them to fluff. 6. The knobs at the edges of fluffy areas are some times difficult to get completely brushed out. Use the point of a bunka needle to carefully pick at these loops to get them to fluff. 6. SCULPTURING SCULPTURING By trimming down the fluff the design areas become more distinct and instead of being fluffy, the stitching will take on a more velvety texture. With your bunka brush raise the fluff so that it is standing straight up, then start cutting off the desired amount. The edges of a sculptured design look nicer when they have been angled on a smooth down to the canvas. By trimming down the fluff the design areas become more distinct and instead of being fluffy, the stitching will take on a more velvety texture. With your bunka brush raise the fluff so that it is standing straight up, then start cutting off the desired amount. The edges of a sculptured design look nicer when they have been angled on a smooth down to the canvas. FLUFFY ANIMALS FLUFFY ANIMALS Finishing Touches: Finishing Touches: PLASTIC EYES AND NOSE - Cut a small hole in the center of the area and push through the post of the eye/nose. PLASTIC EYES AND NOSE - Cut a small hole in the center of the area and push through the post of the eye/nose. FLOWERS - Can be sewn on with needle and thread or insert the end through a small hole cut in the canvas. Secure on the back with a piece of tape. FLOWERS - Can be sewn on with needle and thread or insert the end through a small hole cut in the canvas. Secure on the back with a piece of tape. 98 98 FOAM STITCH FOAM STITCH This stitch is a variation of the Twisted Picot. Where each Twisted Picot is joined with a 'Lead Stitch'. See Twisted Picot Stitch This stitch is a variation of the Twisted Picot. Where each Twisted Picot is joined with a 'Lead Stitch'. See Twisted Picot Stitch APPLICATION APPLICATION Can be used in water areas where a turbulent effect is desired, such as the crest of a wave or the base of a waterfall. Can be used in water areas where a turbulent effect is desired, such as the crest of a wave or the base of a waterfall. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch the area first (i.e. the body of the wave). ! Stitch the area first (i.e. the body of the wave). ! Punch on the edge of the wave, using one of the lighter shades of thread. ! Punch on the edge of the wave, using one of the lighter shades of thread. ! Make a Twisted Picot. ! Make a Twisted Picot. ! Take a short 1/8" Lead Stitch to where you want the next Picot. ! Take a short 1/8" Lead Stitch to where you want the next Picot. ! Repeat. For a natural effect, do not line up the Twisted Picots neatly in a line. They should be staggered along different areas of the wave. ! Repeat. For a natural effect, do not line up the Twisted Picots neatly in a line. They should be staggered along different areas of the wave. 99 99 FOAM STITCH FOAM STITCH This stitch is a variation of the Twisted Picot. Where each Twisted Picot is joined with a 'Lead Stitch'. See Twisted Picot Stitch This stitch is a variation of the Twisted Picot. Where each Twisted Picot is joined with a 'Lead Stitch'. See Twisted Picot Stitch APPLICATION APPLICATION Can be used in water areas where a turbulent effect is desired, such as the crest of a wave or the base of a waterfall. Can be used in water areas where a turbulent effect is desired, such as the crest of a wave or the base of a waterfall. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch the area first (i.e. the body of the wave). ! Stitch the area first (i.e. the body of the wave). ! Punch on the edge of the wave, using one of the lighter shades of thread. ! Punch on the edge of the wave, using one of the lighter shades of thread. ! Make a Twisted Picot. ! Make a Twisted Picot. ! Take a short 1/8" Lead Stitch to where you want the next Picot. ! Take a short 1/8" Lead Stitch to where you want the next Picot. ! Repeat. For a natural effect, do not line up the Twisted Picots neatly in a line. They should be staggered along different areas of the wave. ! Repeat. For a natural effect, do not line up the Twisted Picots neatly in a line. They should be staggered along different areas of the wave. 99 99 FRENCH KNOT FRENCH KNOT Utilizes a regular tapestry needle and either whole or 3/4 pull bunka thread. Not advisable to use any pull less than 3/4. Utilizes a regular tapestry needle and either whole or 3/4 pull bunka thread. Not advisable to use any pull less than 3/4. APPLICATION APPLICATION Centers of Flowers; Accents on Bird's Legs; Decorative Stitch. Centers of Flowers; Accents on Bird's Legs; Decorative Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE The technique is very similar to the method used in traditional embroidery however in Bunka Shishu work the thread is wrapped around the needle only once. The technique is very similar to the method used in traditional embroidery however in Bunka Shishu work the thread is wrapped around the needle only once. ! Thread about 12" of whole bunka thread into the tapestry needle and tie a knot in the end. ! Thread about 12" of whole bunka thread into the tapestry needle and tie a knot in the end. ! Bring the tapestry needle up from the back of the canvas to the front. ! Bring the tapestry needle up from the back of the canvas to the front. ! Hold the thread taut with your left hand and wrap the needle once around the thread. ! Hold the thread taut with your left hand and wrap the needle once around the thread. ! Important - Keep a tight hold on the thread with the left hand. ! Important - Keep a tight hold on the thread with the left hand. ! Take the needle to the back of the canvas 1mm away from the thread and slowly draw the entire length of thread to the back. ! Take the needle to the back of the canvas 1mm away from the thread and slowly draw the entire length of thread to the back. 100 100 FRENCH KNOT FRENCH KNOT Utilizes a regular tapestry needle and either whole or 3/4 pull bunka thread. Not advisable to use any pull less than 3/4. Utilizes a regular tapestry needle and either whole or 3/4 pull bunka thread. Not advisable to use any pull less than 3/4. APPLICATION APPLICATION Centers of Flowers; Accents on Bird's Legs; Decorative Stitch. Centers of Flowers; Accents on Bird's Legs; Decorative Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE The technique is very similar to the method used in traditional embroidery however in Bunka Shishu work the thread is wrapped around the needle only once. The technique is very similar to the method used in traditional embroidery however in Bunka Shishu work the thread is wrapped around the needle only once. ! Thread about 12" of whole bunka thread into the tapestry needle and tie a knot in the end. ! Thread about 12" of whole bunka thread into the tapestry needle and tie a knot in the end. ! Bring the tapestry needle up from the back of the canvas to the front. ! Bring the tapestry needle up from the back of the canvas to the front. ! Hold the thread taut with your left hand and wrap the needle once around the thread. ! Hold the thread taut with your left hand and wrap the needle once around the thread. ! Important - Keep a tight hold on the thread with the left hand. ! Important - Keep a tight hold on the thread with the left hand. ! Take the needle to the back of the canvas 1mm away from the thread and slowly draw the entire length of thread to the back. ! Take the needle to the back of the canvas 1mm away from the thread and slowly draw the entire length of thread to the back. 100 100 ! It is not necessary to cut the thread if additional knots are required in close proximity to each other. However, if a space of more than 1" is necessary between French Knots it is advisable to cut the thread after completing each one. ! It is not necessary to cut the thread if additional knots are required in close proximity to each other. However, if a space of more than 1" is necessary between French Knots it is advisable to cut the thread after completing each one. GRASS STITCH GRASS STITCH (See Claw Stitch) (See Claw Stitch) HAIR, HAIRPLANTING HAIR, HAIRPLANTING Hair planting is an advanced technique used to create a natural-looking hairline. Requires the use of rice glue and a regular sewing needle. Hair planting is an advanced technique used to create a natural-looking hairline. Requires the use of rice glue and a regular sewing needle. APPLICATION APPLICATION Masuhato Kits of Japanese Ladies. Masuhato Kits of Japanese Ladies. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Cut 12" lengths of 2/4 pull thread in the required colours - at least 3, light-grey, medium-grey and black. ! Cut 12" lengths of 2/4 pull thread in the required colours - at least 3, light-grey, medium-grey and black. ! Place a small amount of glue between your fingers and run each thread through your fingers and glue until all the curl has been straightened out. Set aside to dry. ! Place a small amount of glue between your fingers and run each thread through your fingers and glue until all the curl has been straightened out. Set aside to dry. ! Using a regular sewing needle, bring the thread up from the back of the canvas to front just below the edge of the hair. ! Using a regular sewing needle, bring the thread up from the back of the canvas to front just below the edge of the hair. 101 ! It is not necessary to cut the thread if additional knots are required in close proximity to each other. However, if a space of more than 1" is necessary between French Knots it is advisable to cut the thread after completing each one. 101 ! It is not necessary to cut the thread if additional knots are required in close proximity to each other. However, if a space of more than 1" is necessary between French Knots it is advisable to cut the thread after completing each one. GRASS STITCH GRASS STITCH (See Claw Stitch) (See Claw Stitch) HAIR, HAIRPLANTING HAIR, HAIRPLANTING Hair planting is an advanced technique used to create a natural-looking hairline. Requires the use of rice glue and a regular sewing needle. Hair planting is an advanced technique used to create a natural-looking hairline. Requires the use of rice glue and a regular sewing needle. APPLICATION APPLICATION Masuhato Kits of Japanese Ladies. Masuhato Kits of Japanese Ladies. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Cut 12" lengths of 2/4 pull thread in the required colours - at least 3, light-grey, medium-grey and black. ! Cut 12" lengths of 2/4 pull thread in the required colours - at least 3, light-grey, medium-grey and black. ! Place a small amount of glue between your fingers and run each thread through your fingers and glue until all the curl has been straightened out. Set aside to dry. ! Place a small amount of glue between your fingers and run each thread through your fingers and glue until all the curl has been straightened out. Set aside to dry. ! Using a regular sewing needle, bring the thread up from the back of the canvas to front just below the edge of the hair. ! Using a regular sewing needle, bring the thread up from the back of the canvas to front just below the edge of the hair. 101 101 ! Take a 1/2" to 1" stitch over into the hair. Repeat, placing varying lengths and colours of the glued thread throughout the hairline. ! Take a 1/2" to 1" stitch over into the hair. Repeat, placing varying lengths and colours of the glued thread throughout the hairline. HAIR, LAYERS HAIR, LAYERS (see Layered Stitching) (see Layered Stitching) HAIR, STYLING HAIR, STYLING Styling involves rolling strands of brushed Fluffy Stitch using either a curling iron or two bunka needles to roll the fluff into curls. The curling iron makes large, loose curls and is usually used on larger pictures. The bunka needle method creates tighter, smaller curls and works beautifully when the hair has been stitched with 2 shades of 1/4 pull although it can also be done with 2/4 pull Fluffy thread. With both methods, it is recommended that you work with small sections of the fluff at a time. Styling involves rolling strands of brushed Fluffy Stitch using either a curling iron or two bunka needles to roll the fluff into curls. The curling iron makes large, loose curls and is usually used on larger pictures. The bunka needle method creates tighter, smaller curls and works beautifully when the hair has been stitched with 2 shades of 1/4 pull although it can also be done with 2/4 pull Fluffy thread. With both methods, it is recommended that you work with small sections of the fluff at a time. 1/4 pull Fluffy stitch, as on the Ballerina Rose, are done with two shades of brown in 1/4 pull thread. The outline of each curl is stitched 2x with Fluffy Stitch using a fluffy needle. The inside area of each curl is then filled in with the second colour. 1/4 pull Fluffy stitch, as on the Ballerina Rose, are done with two shades of brown in 1/4 pull thread. The outline of each curl is stitched 2x with Fluffy Stitch using a fluffy needle. The inside area of each curl is then filled in with the second colour. 102 ! Take a 1/2" to 1" stitch over into the hair. Repeat, placing varying lengths and colours of the glued thread throughout the hairline. 102 ! Take a 1/2" to 1" stitch over into the hair. Repeat, placing varying lengths and colours of the glued thread throughout the hairline. HAIR, LAYERS HAIR, LAYERS (see Layered Stitching) (see Layered Stitching) HAIR, STYLING HAIR, STYLING Styling involves rolling strands of brushed Fluffy Stitch using either a curling iron or two bunka needles to roll the fluff into curls. The curling iron makes large, loose curls and is usually used on larger pictures. The bunka needle method creates tighter, smaller curls and works beautifully when the hair has been stitched with 2 shades of 1/4 pull although it can also be done with 2/4 pull Fluffy thread. With both methods, it is recommended that you work with small sections of the fluff at a time. Styling involves rolling strands of brushed Fluffy Stitch using either a curling iron or two bunka needles to roll the fluff into curls. The curling iron makes large, loose curls and is usually used on larger pictures. The bunka needle method creates tighter, smaller curls and works beautifully when the hair has been stitched with 2 shades of 1/4 pull although it can also be done with 2/4 pull Fluffy thread. With both methods, it is recommended that you work with small sections of the fluff at a time. 1/4 pull Fluffy stitch, as on the Ballerina Rose, are done with two shades of brown in 1/4 pull thread. The outline of each curl is stitched 2x with Fluffy Stitch using a fluffy needle. The inside area of each curl is then filled in with the second colour. 1/4 pull Fluffy stitch, as on the Ballerina Rose, are done with two shades of brown in 1/4 pull thread. The outline of each curl is stitched 2x with Fluffy Stitch using a fluffy needle. The inside area of each curl is then filled in with the second colour. 102 102 APPLICATION APPLICATION Ballerina Rose, Stitcher's discretion. Ballerina Rose, Stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE - BUNKA NEEDLE METHOD TECHNIQUE - BUNKA NEEDLE METHOD ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Stitch and brush the area. Brush up the fluffy so that it is perpendicular to the canvas. Section off a few strands (approx. 1/4" in width). Thread up one of the needles and hold it in your stitching hand - leave the other unthreaded. Hold the needles horizontal to the Roll canvas placing the threaded one in front of the fluff and the unthreaded needle behind. Roll the strands of fluffy between the two needles; the needles should roll in a circular motion. Take the curl right down to the 'roots'. Hold the threaded needle inside the curl, Curl withdraw the Draw out needle unthreaded needle. through hair To anchor the curl, punch the needle at one end of the curl through the canvas, pulling the end to the back. Draw the needle to opposite end of the curl and punch; pull the end to the back and cut. Carefully withdraw the needle. ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Stitch and brush the area. Brush up the fluffy so that it is perpendicular to the canvas. Section off a few strands (approx. 1/4" in width). Thread up one of the needles and hold it in your stitching hand - leave the other unthreaded. Hold the needles horizontal to the Roll canvas placing the threaded one in front of the fluff and the unthreaded needle behind. Roll the strands of fluffy between the two needles; the needles should roll in a circular motion. Take the curl right down to the 'roots'. Hold the threaded needle inside the curl, Curl withdraw the Draw out needle unthreaded needle. through hair To anchor the curl, punch the needle at one end of the curl through the canvas, pulling the end to the back. Draw the needle to opposite end of the curl and punch; pull the end to the back and cut. Carefully withdraw the needle. 103 103 APPLICATION APPLICATION Ballerina Rose, Stitcher's discretion. Ballerina Rose, Stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE - BUNKA NEEDLE METHOD TECHNIQUE - BUNKA NEEDLE METHOD ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Stitch and brush the area. Brush up the fluffy so that it is perpendicular to the canvas. Section off a few strands (approx. 1/4" in width). Thread up one of the needles and hold it in your stitching hand - leave the other unthreaded. Hold the needles horizontal to the Roll canvas placing the threaded one in front of the fluff and the unthreaded needle behind. Roll the strands of fluffy between the two needles; the needles should roll in a circular motion. Take the curl right down to the 'roots'. Hold the threaded needle inside the curl, Curl withdraw the Draw out needle unthreaded needle. through hair To anchor the curl, punch the needle at one end of the curl through the canvas, pulling the end to the back. Draw the needle to opposite end of the curl and punch; pull the end to the back and cut. Carefully withdraw the needle. 103 ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! Stitch and brush the area. Brush up the fluffy so that it is perpendicular to the canvas. Section off a few strands (approx. 1/4" in width). Thread up one of the needles and hold it in your stitching hand - leave the other unthreaded. Hold the needles horizontal to the Roll canvas placing the threaded one in front of the fluff and the unthreaded needle behind. Roll the strands of fluffy between the two needles; the needles should roll in a circular motion. Take the curl right down to the 'roots'. Hold the threaded needle inside the curl, Curl withdraw the Draw out needle unthreaded needle. through hair To anchor the curl, punch the needle at one end of the curl through the canvas, pulling the end to the back. Draw the needle to opposite end of the curl and punch; pull the end to the back and cut. Carefully withdraw the needle. 103 HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Highlights give focus to eyes, sparkle to water and accents to trees. Pay careful attention to placement and size especially for eye highlights. If these are not placed properly, the figure could be looking off in the wrong direction or could look cross-eyed. Highlights give focus to eyes, sparkle to water and accents to trees. Pay careful attention to placement and size especially for eye highlights. If these are not placed properly, the figure could be looking off in the wrong direction or could look cross-eyed. AREA TECHNIQUE AREA TECHNIQUE Stitched Eye 1. Small Stitch & Cut 2. Single Clip Stitch 3. One Reverse Stitch Stitched Eye 1. Small Stitch & Cut 2. Single Clip Stitch 3. One Reverse Stitch Gold Ribbon Eye Tie a knot in a piece of 3/4 pull thread. Cut off both ends. Roll the dot between your fingers. Glue to the gold ribbon. Gold Ribbon Eye Tie a knot in a piece of 3/4 pull thread. Cut off both ends. Roll the dot between your fingers. Glue to the gold ribbon. Water Place single Stitch & Cuts over the base stitching in the area where two colours meet, usually along the edges (area of change) - light thread into dark, and vice versa. Stitch & Cuts with metallic thread adds a nice sparkle. Water Place single Stitch & Cuts over the base stitching in the area where two colours meet, usually along the edges (area of change) - light thread into dark, and vice versa. Stitch & Cuts with metallic thread adds a nice sparkle. Small Evergreens To indicate where the sunlight strikes some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitch or Claw Stitch, kept very small, in proportion to the size of the tree. Small Evergreens To indicate where the sunlight strikes some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitch or Claw Stitch, kept very small, in proportion to the size of the tree. Hair With the lighter shades of thread used for the base stitching, work in rows of Running Stitch for a realistic effect. Hair With the lighter shades of thread used for the base stitching, work in rows of Running Stitch for a realistic effect. 104 104 HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Highlights give focus to eyes, sparkle to water and accents to trees. Pay careful attention to placement and size especially for eye highlights. If these are not placed properly, the figure could be looking off in the wrong direction or could look cross-eyed. Highlights give focus to eyes, sparkle to water and accents to trees. Pay careful attention to placement and size especially for eye highlights. If these are not placed properly, the figure could be looking off in the wrong direction or could look cross-eyed. AREA TECHNIQUE AREA TECHNIQUE Stitched Eye 1. Small Stitch & Cut 2. Single Clip Stitch 3. One Reverse Stitch Stitched Eye 1. Small Stitch & Cut 2. Single Clip Stitch 3. One Reverse Stitch Gold Ribbon Eye Tie a knot in a piece of 3/4 pull thread. Cut off both ends. Roll the dot between your fingers. Glue to the gold ribbon. Gold Ribbon Eye Tie a knot in a piece of 3/4 pull thread. Cut off both ends. Roll the dot between your fingers. Glue to the gold ribbon. Water Place single Stitch & Cuts over the base stitching in the area where two colours meet, usually along the edges (area of change) - light thread into dark, and vice versa. Stitch & Cuts with metallic thread adds a nice sparkle. Water Place single Stitch & Cuts over the base stitching in the area where two colours meet, usually along the edges (area of change) - light thread into dark, and vice versa. Stitch & Cuts with metallic thread adds a nice sparkle. Small Evergreens To indicate where the sunlight strikes some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitch or Claw Stitch, kept very small, in proportion to the size of the tree. Small Evergreens To indicate where the sunlight strikes some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitch or Claw Stitch, kept very small, in proportion to the size of the tree. Hair With the lighter shades of thread used for the base stitching, work in rows of Running Stitch for a realistic effect. Hair With the lighter shades of thread used for the base stitching, work in rows of Running Stitch for a realistic effect. 104 104 INLAY STITCH INLAY STITCH Inlay is used for single stitching that has a very bold appearance using whole thread for padding which is then overstitched with regular 2/4 pull. Inlay is used for single stitching that has a very bold appearance using whole thread for padding which is then overstitched with regular 2/4 pull. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitch used at stitcher's discretion, flower stems or veins, borders. Decorative stitch used at stitcher's discretion, flower stems or veins, borders. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Draw up a 12" piece of whole thread in a regular sewing needle from the back of the canvas. ! Draw up a 12" piece of whole thread in a regular sewing needle from the back of the canvas. ! Secure the whole thread to the desired spot using either Method 1 or 2 as explained under 'Couching Stitches': ! Secure the whole thread to the desired spot using either Method 1 or 2 as explained under 'Couching Stitches': - small, single stitches placed every 1/2" over the thread. - push up a loop from the back of the canvas and thread the whole thread through the loop. ! Thread a bunka needle with 2/4 pull thread. Overstitch the whole thread with a tight, neat Satin Stitch. - small, single stitches placed every 1/2" over the thread. - push up a loop from the back of the canvas and thread the whole thread through the loop. ! Thread a bunka needle with 2/4 pull thread. Overstitch the whole thread with a tight, neat Satin Stitch. Whole thread Whole thread 105 105 INLAY STITCH INLAY STITCH Inlay is used for single stitching that has a very bold appearance using whole thread for padding which is then overstitched with regular 2/4 pull. Inlay is used for single stitching that has a very bold appearance using whole thread for padding which is then overstitched with regular 2/4 pull. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitch used at stitcher's discretion, flower stems or veins, borders. Decorative stitch used at stitcher's discretion, flower stems or veins, borders. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Draw up a 12" piece of whole thread in a regular sewing needle from the back of the canvas. ! Draw up a 12" piece of whole thread in a regular sewing needle from the back of the canvas. ! Secure the whole thread to the desired spot using either Method 1 or 2 as explained under 'Couching Stitches': ! Secure the whole thread to the desired spot using either Method 1 or 2 as explained under 'Couching Stitches': - small, single stitches placed every 1/2" over the thread. - push up a loop from the back of the canvas and thread the whole thread through the loop. ! Thread a bunka needle with 2/4 pull thread. Overstitch the whole thread with a tight, neat Satin Stitch. - small, single stitches placed every 1/2" over the thread. - push up a loop from the back of the canvas and thread the whole thread through the loop. ! Whole thread 105 Thread a bunka needle with 2/4 pull thread. Overstitch the whole thread with a tight, neat Satin Stitch. Whole thread 105 LADDER STITCH LADDER STITCH Decorative Stitch, creates criss-cross design. Attractive when placed over a stitched area. Decorative Stitch, creates criss-cross design. Attractive when placed over a stitched area. APPLICATION APPLICATION Stitcher's discretion. Stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Follow the numbers on the diagram to work a continuous criss-cross line across the area. ! Follow the numbers on the diagram to work a continuous criss-cross line across the area. LAYERED STITCHING LAYERED STITCHING A base layer, blending 3-4 colours, is completed first. Numerous Stitch & Cuts rows and/or stitches are then placed on top of the base layer using 2-3 of the lighter colours. A base layer, blending 3-4 colours, is completed first. Numerous Stitch & Cuts rows and/or stitches are then placed on top of the base layer using 2-3 of the lighter colours. APPLICATION APPLICATION This technique is used for hair/beards, waterfalls. This technique is used for hair/beards, waterfalls. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch the base area with colours indicated. ! 106 Stitch the base area with colours indicated. 106 LADDER STITCH LADDER STITCH Decorative Stitch, creates criss-cross design. Attractive when placed over a stitched area. Decorative Stitch, creates criss-cross design. Attractive when placed over a stitched area. APPLICATION APPLICATION Stitcher's discretion. Stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Follow the numbers on the diagram to work a continuous criss-cross line across the area. ! Follow the numbers on the diagram to work a continuous criss-cross line across the area. LAYERED STITCHING LAYERED STITCHING A base layer, blending 3-4 colours, is completed first. Numerous Stitch & Cuts rows and/or stitches are then placed on top of the base layer using 2-3 of the lighter colours. A base layer, blending 3-4 colours, is completed first. Numerous Stitch & Cuts rows and/or stitches are then placed on top of the base layer using 2-3 of the lighter colours. APPLICATION APPLICATION This technique is used for hair/beards, waterfalls. This technique is used for hair/beards, waterfalls. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch the base area with colours indicated. 106 ! Stitch the base area with colours indicated. 106 ! Work in rows and/or single stitches of adjoining colours on top of the base colour, neighbour into neighbour, until the definite areas of colour are toned down. ! Work in rows and/or single stitches of adjoining colours on top of the base colour, neighbour into neighbour, until the definite areas of colour are toned down. ! Waterfalls - the lightest colours should be concentrated wherever the flow of water is hitting an object such as rocks, at the base and at the top. ! Waterfalls - the lightest colours should be concentrated wherever the flow of water is hitting an object such as rocks, at the base and at the top. ! Hair - the lightest colours should be concentrated at the spot where the light is striking. ! Hair - the lightest colours should be concentrated at the spot where the light is striking. LAZY DAISY STITCH LAZY DAISY STITCH (see 'Ring Stitch') (see 'Ring Stitch') LEAVES - BAMBOO LEAVES - BAMBOO The technique of stitching bamboo leaves can be applied to any object that widens out from a single thread width at the tip and where the stitch direction runs vertically. These leaves should be stitched very smooth and even like regular flat stitching but because of the irregular shape it requires a little more work to gain this effect. The technique of stitching bamboo leaves can be applied to any object that widens out from a single thread width at the tip and where the stitch direction runs vertically. These leaves should be stitched very smooth and even like regular flat stitching but because of the irregular shape it requires a little more work to gain this effect. APPLICATION APPLICATION Bamboo leaves, sword leaves, etc. Bamboo leaves, sword leaves, etc. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Start at the tip, punch in 1mm past the screen printing to ensure that the tread will cover the blue line. ! Start at the tip, punch in 1mm past the screen printing to ensure that the tread will cover the blue line. 107 107 ! Work in rows and/or single stitches of adjoining colours on top of the base colour, neighbour into neighbour, until the definite areas of colour are toned down. ! Work in rows and/or single stitches of adjoining colours on top of the base colour, neighbour into neighbour, until the definite areas of colour are toned down. ! Waterfalls - the lightest colours should be concentrated wherever the flow of water is hitting an object such as rocks, at the base and at the top. ! Waterfalls - the lightest colours should be concentrated wherever the flow of water is hitting an object such as rocks, at the base and at the top. ! Hair - the lightest colours should be concentrated at the spot where the light is striking. ! Hair - the lightest colours should be concentrated at the spot where the light is striking. LAZY DAISY STITCH LAZY DAISY STITCH (see 'Ring Stitch') (see 'Ring Stitch') LEAVES - BAMBOO LEAVES - BAMBOO The technique of stitching bamboo leaves can be applied to any object that widens out from a single thread width at the tip and where the stitch direction runs vertically. These leaves should be stitched very smooth and even like regular flat stitching but because of the irregular shape it requires a little more work to gain this effect. The technique of stitching bamboo leaves can be applied to any object that widens out from a single thread width at the tip and where the stitch direction runs vertically. These leaves should be stitched very smooth and even like regular flat stitching but because of the irregular shape it requires a little more work to gain this effect. APPLICATION APPLICATION Bamboo leaves, sword leaves, etc. Bamboo leaves, sword leaves, etc. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Start at the tip, punch in 1mm past the screen printing to ensure that the tread will cover the blue line. 107 ! Start at the tip, punch in 1mm past the screen printing to ensure that the tread will cover the blue line. 107 ! **Stitch one row down the center of the leaf. Turn the headlight and stitch the second row back up the length of the leaf to where the blue line is showing. ! **Stitch one row down the center of the leaf. Turn the headlight and stitch the second row back up the length of the leaf to where the blue line is showing. ! Punch over the blue line and cut the thread. ! Punch over the blue line and cut the thread. ! Re-insert the needle at the point where the blue line is just starting to show through. ! Re-insert the needle at the point where the blue line is just starting to show through. ! Repeat from **to** until one half of the leaf is completed. ! Repeat from **to** until one half of the leaf is completed. ! Turn the work frame so that you are able to work left to right on the remaining half of the leaf and repeat the above steps. ! Turn the work frame so that you are able to work left to right on the remaining half of the leaf and repeat the above steps. LEAVES - CLAW STITCH CLUSTERS LEAVES - CLAW STITCH CLUSTERS This technique is used to create clusters or groups of leaves around the trunk and branches of a large tree. It utilizes a minimum of 3 shades and the overall effect should be light and airy. This is another technique that requires the stitcher to refer to the coloured insert for proper placement since the background sky area which has already been stitched has hidden any screen printed guidelines. This technique is used to create clusters or groups of leaves around the trunk and branches of a large tree. It utilizes a minimum of 3 shades and the overall effect should be light and airy. This is another technique that requires the stitcher to refer to the coloured insert for proper placement since the background sky area which has already been stitched has hidden any screen printed guidelines. 108 108 ! **Stitch one row down the center of the leaf. Turn the headlight and stitch the second row back up the length of the leaf to where the blue line is showing. ! **Stitch one row down the center of the leaf. Turn the headlight and stitch the second row back up the length of the leaf to where the blue line is showing. ! Punch over the blue line and cut the thread. ! Punch over the blue line and cut the thread. ! Re-insert the needle at the point where the blue line is just starting to show through. ! Re-insert the needle at the point where the blue line is just starting to show through. ! Repeat from **to** until one half of the leaf is completed. ! Repeat from **to** until one half of the leaf is completed. ! Turn the work frame so that you are able to work left to right on the remaining half of the leaf and repeat the above steps. ! Turn the work frame so that you are able to work left to right on the remaining half of the leaf and repeat the above steps. LEAVES - CLAW STITCH CLUSTERS LEAVES - CLAW STITCH CLUSTERS This technique is used to create clusters or groups of leaves around the trunk and branches of a large tree. It utilizes a minimum of 3 shades and the overall effect should be light and airy. This is another technique that requires the stitcher to refer to the coloured insert for proper placement since the background sky area which has already been stitched has hidden any screen printed guidelines. This technique is used to create clusters or groups of leaves around the trunk and branches of a large tree. It utilizes a minimum of 3 shades and the overall effect should be light and airy. This is another technique that requires the stitcher to refer to the coloured insert for proper placement since the background sky area which has already been stitched has hidden any screen printed guidelines. 108 108 APPLICATION APPLICATION Used in many scenes. Used in many scenes. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Please refer to Claw Stitch for the basic technique. Please refer to Claw Stitch for the basic technique. ! When creating Leaf Clusters using Claw Stitch, you are not limited to a 3-pointed design. The 3-pointed Claw Stitch can be increased up to as many as 8 points. ! When creating Leaf Clusters using Claw Stitch, you are not limited to a 3-pointed design. The 3-pointed Claw Stitch can be increased up to as many as 8 points. ! After completing one starshape, take a 1/2" -3/4" stitch to where the next star shape will be worked. This 1/2" stitch is referred to as a 'Lead' stitch. ! After completing one starshape, take a 1/2" -3/4" stitch to where the next star shape will be worked. This 1/2" stitch is referred to as a 'Lead' stitch. Lead Lead ! Since these Lead Stitches can become unsightly, they can be concealed by working other groups on top of them. ! Since these Lead Stitches can become unsightly, they can be concealed by working other groups on top of them. ! Leaf clusters are stitched from the darkest shade to the lightest and should be scattered around the branch. ! Leaf clusters are stitched from the darkest shade to the lightest and should be scattered around the branch. ! At certain points, crossover the branch for a more realistic effect. ! At certain points, crossover the branch for a more realistic effect. 109 109 APPLICATION APPLICATION Used in many scenes. Used in many scenes. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Please refer to Claw Stitch for the basic technique. Please refer to Claw Stitch for the basic technique. ! When creating Leaf Clusters using Claw Stitch, you are not limited to a 3-pointed design. The 3-pointed Claw Stitch can be increased up to as many as 8 points. ! When creating Leaf Clusters using Claw Stitch, you are not limited to a 3-pointed design. The 3-pointed Claw Stitch can be increased up to as many as 8 points. ! After completing one starshape, take a 1/2" -3/4" stitch to where the next star shape will be worked. This 1/2" stitch is referred to as a 'Lead' stitch. ! After completing one starshape, take a 1/2" -3/4" stitch to where the next star shape will be worked. This 1/2" stitch is referred to as a 'Lead' stitch. Lead Lead ! Since these Lead Stitches can become unsightly, they can be concealed by working other groups on top of them. ! Since these Lead Stitches can become unsightly, they can be concealed by working other groups on top of them. ! Leaf clusters are stitched from the darkest shade to the lightest and should be scattered around the branch. ! Leaf clusters are stitched from the darkest shade to the lightest and should be scattered around the branch. ! At certain points, crossover the branch for a more realistic effect. ! At certain points, crossover the branch for a more realistic effect. 109 109 ! The clusters should never be neatly lined up but should point off in all different directions. ! The clusters should never be neatly lined up but should point off in all different directions. ! The medium shade should overlap and extend farther out from the dark shade. ! The medium shade should overlap and extend farther out from the dark shade. ! Repeat with the lightest shade. ! Repeat with the lightest shade. dark = first leaves med. = second leaves dotted = third leaves dark = first leaves med. = second leaves dotted = third leaves LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, SMOOTH LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, SMOOTH This technique is used on leaves and bird's feathers that have smooth edges and a center vein. The stitching is worked down one half of the leaf and then back up the other half with the stitch direction on an angle to the center vein. Line Padding should be applied to the outside edge to ensure a smooth even edge. This technique is used on leaves and bird's feathers that have smooth edges and a center vein. The stitching is worked down one half of the leaf and then back up the other half with the stitch direction on an angle to the center vein. Line Padding should be applied to the outside edge to ensure a smooth even edge. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Start at the base of the leaf working neatly over the Line Padding, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. ! Start at the base of the leaf working neatly over the Line Padding, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. 110 110 ! The clusters should never be neatly lined up but should point off in all different directions. ! The clusters should never be neatly lined up but should point off in all different directions. ! The medium shade should overlap and extend farther out from the dark shade. ! The medium shade should overlap and extend farther out from the dark shade. ! Repeat with the lightest shade. ! Repeat with the lightest shade. dark = first leaves med. = second leaves dotted = third leaves dark = first leaves med. = second leaves dotted = third leaves LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, SMOOTH LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, SMOOTH This technique is used on leaves and bird's feathers that have smooth edges and a center vein. The stitching is worked down one half of the leaf and then back up the other half with the stitch direction on an angle to the center vein. Line Padding should be applied to the outside edge to ensure a smooth even edge. This technique is used on leaves and bird's feathers that have smooth edges and a center vein. The stitching is worked down one half of the leaf and then back up the other half with the stitch direction on an angle to the center vein. Line Padding should be applied to the outside edge to ensure a smooth even edge. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Line pad around the outside edge. ! Start at the base of the leaf working neatly over the Line Padding, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. ! Start at the base of the leaf working neatly over the Line Padding, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. 110 110 ! Swing the stitches around the tip and work down the other side on the same angle. ! Swing the stitches around the tip and work down the other side on the same angle. ! Stagger the stitch length if the distance is too wide for a single stitch length. ! Stagger the stitch length if the distance is too wide for a single stitch length. ! If the leaf has more than one colour, (eg. lighter area in the center) stitch the inside area first with long and short stitches/rows then stitch an outside area, blending into the center colour. ! If the leaf has more than one colour, (eg. lighter area in the center) stitch the inside area first with long and short stitches/rows then stitch an outside area, blending into the center colour. ! blend outer colour into it For small two-coloured leaves where the blending areas are very small, stitch the outside colour first and then complete the inside area with long and short Pine Needle Stitches, blending into the first colour. ! For small two-coloured leaves where the blending areas are very small, stitch the outside colour first and then complete the inside area with long and short Pine Needle Stitches, blending into the first colour. 111 111 ! Swing the stitches around the tip and work down the other side on the same angle. ! Swing the stitches around the tip and work down the other side on the same angle. ! Stagger the stitch length if the distance is too wide for a single stitch length. ! Stagger the stitch length if the distance is too wide for a single stitch length. ! If the leaf has more than one colour, (eg. lighter area in the center) stitch the inside area first with long and short stitches/rows then stitch an outside area, blending into the center colour. ! If the leaf has more than one colour, (eg. lighter area in the center) stitch the inside area first with long and short stitches/rows then stitch an outside area, blending into the center colour. ! blend outer colour into it For small two-coloured leaves where the blending areas are very small, stitch the outside colour first and then complete the inside area with long and short Pine Needle Stitches, blending into the first colour. ! 111 blend outer colour into it blend outer colour into it For small two-coloured leaves where the blending areas are very small, stitch the outside colour first and then complete the inside area with long and short Pine Needle Stitches, blending into the first colour. 111 LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, POINTED LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, POINTED The outside edge of this type of leaf is jagged with the stitching worked on an angle to the center vein. The outside edge of this type of leaf is jagged with the stitching worked on an angle to the center vein. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Starting at the base of the leaf, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. ! Starting at the base of the leaf, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. ! To make the points on the outside edge, vary the stitch length with long and short stitches. Where a long point is desired extend the stitch out farther than the screenprinted design and end the thread. Punch in again just below the tip. ! To make the points on the outside edge, vary the stitch length with long and short stitches. Where a long point is desired extend the stitch out farther than the screenprinted design and end the thread. Punch in again just below the tip. ! Cut here Restart here Shorten the stitch length as you work across the tip, then back down the other side on the same angle. ! Cut here Restart here Shorten the stitch length as you work across the tip, then back down the other side on the same angle. LEAVES - MAPLE LEAVES - MAPLE Maple leaves are stitched clockwise if you are a right-handed stitcher and counter-clockwise if you are left-handed. The Headlight should be pointed in the neutral position (pointing to the right). Maple leaves are stitched clockwise if you are a right-handed stitcher and counter-clockwise if you are left-handed. The Headlight should be pointed in the neutral position (pointing to the right). There are two methods for stitching maple leaves: There are two methods for stitching maple leaves: a) Center vein method for large maple leaves. a) Center vein method for large maple leaves. 112 112 LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, POINTED LEAVES - FEATHER STITCH, POINTED The outside edge of this type of leaf is jagged with the stitching worked on an angle to the center vein. The outside edge of this type of leaf is jagged with the stitching worked on an angle to the center vein. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Starting at the base of the leaf, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. ! Starting at the base of the leaf, stitch up one side on an angle to the center vein. ! To make the points on the outside edge, vary the stitch length with long and short stitches. Where a long point is desired extend the stitch out farther than the screenprinted design and end the thread. Punch in again just below the tip. ! To make the points on the outside edge, vary the stitch length with long and short stitches. Where a long point is desired extend the stitch out farther than the screenprinted design and end the thread. Punch in again just below the tip. ! Cut here Restart here Shorten the stitch length as you work across the tip, then back down the other side on the same angle. ! Cut here Restart here Shorten the stitch length as you work across the tip, then back down the other side on the same angle. LEAVES - MAPLE LEAVES - MAPLE Maple leaves are stitched clockwise if you are a right-handed stitcher and counter-clockwise if you are left-handed. The Headlight should be pointed in the neutral position (pointing to the right). Maple leaves are stitched clockwise if you are a right-handed stitcher and counter-clockwise if you are left-handed. The Headlight should be pointed in the neutral position (pointing to the right). There are two methods for stitching maple leaves: There are two methods for stitching maple leaves: a) Center vein method for large maple leaves. a) Center vein method for large maple leaves. 112 112 b) Wedge Stitch method for small to medium b) Wedge Stitch method for small to medium Examine the coloured insert closely to determine which method is used. Examine the coloured insert closely to determine which method is used. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE CENTER VEIN METHOD - for Large Maple Leaves CENTER VEIN METHOD - for Large Maple Leaves ! Each lobe of the maple leaf is stitched to the centerline of the lobe. ! Each lobe of the maple leaf is stitched to the centerline of the lobe. ! Starting at the center point of the leaf, work up one side of the lobe out to the tip, on an angle to the center vein. ! Starting at the center point of the leaf, work up one side of the lobe out to the tip, on an angle to the center vein. ! Make a sharp point at the tip by extending the thread out and cutting. ! Make a sharp point at the tip by extending the thread out and cutting. ! Work down the opposite side of the lobe, maintaining the same angle.** If done correctly, the stitches should look like 'V's radiating out from the center vein. ! Work down the opposite side of the lobe, maintaining the same angle.** If done correctly, the stitches should look like 'V's radiating out from the center vein. ! At the end of this lobe continue working up the side of the next lobe and repeat from **to **. ! At the end of this lobe continue working up the side of the next lobe and repeat from **to **. 113 113 b) Wedge Stitch method for small to medium b) Wedge Stitch method for small to medium Examine the coloured insert closely to determine which method is used. Examine the coloured insert closely to determine which method is used. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE CENTER VEIN METHOD - for Large Maple Leaves CENTER VEIN METHOD - for Large Maple Leaves ! Each lobe of the maple leaf is stitched to the centerline of the lobe. ! Each lobe of the maple leaf is stitched to the centerline of the lobe. ! Starting at the center point of the leaf, work up one side of the lobe out to the tip, on an angle to the center vein. ! Starting at the center point of the leaf, work up one side of the lobe out to the tip, on an angle to the center vein. ! Make a sharp point at the tip by extending the thread out and cutting. ! Make a sharp point at the tip by extending the thread out and cutting. ! Work down the opposite side of the lobe, maintaining the same angle.** If done correctly, the stitches should look like 'V's radiating out from the center vein. ! Work down the opposite side of the lobe, maintaining the same angle.** If done correctly, the stitches should look like 'V's radiating out from the center vein. ! At the end of this lobe continue working up the side of the next lobe and repeat from **to **. ! At the end of this lobe continue working up the side of the next lobe and repeat from **to **. 113 113 WEGE STITCH METHOD - for Small Maple Leaves WEGE STITCH METHOD - for Small Maple Leaves This method creates a thicker looking leaf that is more informal in appearance than the Center Vein Maple Leaf. Each lobe is stitched mainly with Wedge Stitches but should have one long stitch which extends from the tip of each lobe right down to the base point. This method creates a thicker looking leaf that is more informal in appearance than the Center Vein Maple Leaf. Each lobe is stitched mainly with Wedge Stitches but should have one long stitch which extends from the tip of each lobe right down to the base point. ! Starting at the base point of the maple leaf, take one stitch along the side of the first lobe. ! Starting at the base point of the maple leaf, take one stitch along the side of the first lobe. ! The second stitch should go back half the length of the first stitch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! The second stitch should go back half the length of the first stitch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! Take another stitch up over the blue line. ! Take another stitch up over the blue line. ! Make another Wedge stitch back to the center either longer or shorter than the first Wedge Stitch. ! Make another Wedge stitch back to the center either longer or shorter than the first Wedge Stitch. 114 114 WEGE STITCH METHOD - for Small Maple Leaves WEGE STITCH METHOD - for Small Maple Leaves This method creates a thicker looking leaf that is more informal in appearance than the Center Vein Maple Leaf. Each lobe is stitched mainly with Wedge Stitches but should have one long stitch which extends from the tip of each lobe right down to the base point. This method creates a thicker looking leaf that is more informal in appearance than the Center Vein Maple Leaf. Each lobe is stitched mainly with Wedge Stitches but should have one long stitch which extends from the tip of each lobe right down to the base point. ! Starting at the base point of the maple leaf, take one stitch along the side of the first lobe. ! Starting at the base point of the maple leaf, take one stitch along the side of the first lobe. ! The second stitch should go back half the length of the first stitch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! The second stitch should go back half the length of the first stitch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! Take another stitch up over the blue line. ! Take another stitch up over the blue line. ! Make another Wedge stitch back to the center either longer or shorter than the first Wedge Stitch. ! Make another Wedge stitch back to the center either longer or shorter than the first Wedge Stitch. 114 114 ! Continue in this manner until you reach the tip of the lobe. This stitch should extend from the tip all the way to the base point. ! Continue in this manner until you reach the tip of the lobe. This stitch should extend from the tip all the way to the base point. ! Repeat this technique for each lobe. ! Repeat this technique for each lobe. LEAVES - PALETTE LEAVES - PALETTE This technique, used for creating a leaf pattern for small deciduous trees, is named for the oil painting method of using a palette knife to apply dabs of colour. Consists of many small, patches of colour starting with the darkest shade and ending with the lightest. This technique, used for creating a leaf pattern for small deciduous trees, is named for the oil painting method of using a palette knife to apply dabs of colour. Consists of many small, patches of colour starting with the darkest shade and ending with the lightest. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Starting with the darkest green, place a series of small, patches of 2-3 horizontal stitches around the branches of the tree. The stitch length should be in proportion to the size of the tree. ! Starting with the darkest green, place a series of small, patches of 2-3 horizontal stitches around the branches of the tree. The stitch length should be in proportion to the size of the tree. 115 115 ! Continue in this manner until you reach the tip of the lobe. This stitch should extend from the tip all the way to the base point. ! Continue in this manner until you reach the tip of the lobe. This stitch should extend from the tip all the way to the base point. ! Repeat this technique for each lobe. ! Repeat this technique for each lobe. LEAVES - PALETTE LEAVES - PALETTE This technique, used for creating a leaf pattern for small deciduous trees, is named for the oil painting method of using a palette knife to apply dabs of colour. Consists of many small, patches of colour starting with the darkest shade and ending with the lightest. This technique, used for creating a leaf pattern for small deciduous trees, is named for the oil painting method of using a palette knife to apply dabs of colour. Consists of many small, patches of colour starting with the darkest shade and ending with the lightest. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Starting with the darkest green, place a series of small, patches of 2-3 horizontal stitches around the branches of the tree. The stitch length should be in proportion to the size of the tree. ! 115 Starting with the darkest green, place a series of small, patches of 2-3 horizontal stitches around the branches of the tree. The stitch length should be in proportion to the size of the tree. 115 ! ! Work in the second, medium shade with the same size stitches. Some of these should overlap the dark shade. Repeat with the lightest shade that can overlap the other colours in some areas. Some of the background stitching (eg. blue sky) should show through. ! ! Work in the second, medium shade with the same size stitches. Some of these should overlap the dark shade. Repeat with the lightest shade that can overlap the other colours in some areas. Some of the background stitching (eg. blue sky) should show through. LEAVES - SMALL SATIN LEAVES - SMALL SATIN Standard type of leaf used in many floral designs. Usually stitched on an angle with Satin Stitch. Standard type of leaf used in many floral designs. Usually stitched on an angle with Satin Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! With the Headlight pointing in the neutral position, punch in at the base of the leaf and take one stitch on an angle to the top edge. ! This first stitch establishes the angle of all the remaining stitches. This first stitch establishes the angle of all the remaining stitches. 116 ! ! Work in the second, medium shade with the same size stitches. Some of these should overlap the dark shade. Repeat with the lightest shade that can overlap the other colours in some areas. Some of the background stitching (eg. blue sky) should show through. With the Headlight pointing in the neutral position, punch in at the base of the leaf and take one stitch on an angle to the top edge. 116 ! ! Work in the second, medium shade with the same size stitches. Some of these should overlap the dark shade. Repeat with the lightest shade that can overlap the other colours in some areas. Some of the background stitching (eg. blue sky) should show through. LEAVES - SMALL SATIN LEAVES - SMALL SATIN Standard type of leaf used in many floral designs. Usually stitched on an angle with Satin Stitch. Standard type of leaf used in many floral designs. Usually stitched on an angle with Satin Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! With the Headlight pointing in the neutral position, punch in at the base of the leaf and take one stitch on an angle to the top edge. This first stitch establishes the angle of all the remaining stitches. 116 ! With the Headlight pointing in the neutral position, punch in at the base of the leaf and take one stitch on an angle to the top edge. This first stitch establishes the angle of all the remaining stitches. 116 ! Continue working on this angle until you reach the tip area. ! Continue working on this angle until you reach the tip area. ! To create a nice, tapered end, shorten the stitch length and end with a single thread at the tip. ! To create a nice, tapered end, shorten the stitch length and end with a single thread at the tip. LEFT-HANDAD STITCHERS LEFT-HANDAD STITCHERS Bunka Shishu embroidery is very simple to adapt to for left-handed stitchers. The only thing you must keep in mind is to reverse some of the stitch directions. For example, when doing rows of Flat Stitch, right-handers would work left to right so that their stitching hand is moving away from the stitching. Left-handers will work their rows from right to left. If a right-handed person is showing you a technique, by sitting directly across from them you will see the stitching from the perspective of a left handed stitcher. Bunka Shishu embroidery is very simple to adapt to for left-handed stitchers. The only thing you must keep in mind is to reverse some of the stitch directions. For example, when doing rows of Flat Stitch, right-handers would work left to right so that their stitching hand is moving away from the stitching. Left-handers will work their rows from right to left. If a right-handed person is showing you a technique, by sitting directly across from them you will see the stitching from the perspective of a left handed stitcher. OUTLINING OUTLINING Outlining helps to define or accent an object and should be perfectly aligned around the edge. Outlining helps to define or accent an object and should be perfectly aligned around the edge. The most common technique used for outlining is a row of Running Stitch that is worked around a completely stitched object, for example, a rock. (see Running Stitch) The most common technique used for outlining is a row of Running Stitch that is worked around a completely stitched object, for example, a rock. (see Running Stitch) 117 117 ! Continue working on this angle until you reach the tip area. ! Continue working on this angle until you reach the tip area. ! To create a nice, tapered end, shorten the stitch length and end with a single thread at the tip. ! To create a nice, tapered end, shorten the stitch length and end with a single thread at the tip. LEFT-HANDAD STITCHERS LEFT-HANDAD STITCHERS Bunka Shishu embroidery is very simple to adapt to for left-handed stitchers. The only thing you must keep in mind is to reverse some of the stitch directions. For example, when doing rows of Flat Stitch, right-handers would work left to right so that their stitching hand is moving away from the stitching. Left-handers will work their rows from right to left. If a right-handed person is showing you a technique, by sitting directly across from them you will see the stitching from the perspective of a left handed stitcher. Bunka Shishu embroidery is very simple to adapt to for left-handed stitchers. The only thing you must keep in mind is to reverse some of the stitch directions. For example, when doing rows of Flat Stitch, right-handers would work left to right so that their stitching hand is moving away from the stitching. Left-handers will work their rows from right to left. If a right-handed person is showing you a technique, by sitting directly across from them you will see the stitching from the perspective of a left handed stitcher. OUTLINING OUTLINING Outlining helps to define or accent an object and should be perfectly aligned around the edge. Outlining helps to define or accent an object and should be perfectly aligned around the edge. The most common technique used for outlining is a row of Running Stitch that is worked around a completely stitched object, for example, a rock. (see Running Stitch) The most common technique used for outlining is a row of Running Stitch that is worked around a completely stitched object, for example, a rock. (see Running Stitch) 117 117 On some Matsuhato Kits of Japanese ladies, an outline around the face and hands is evident. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. ! Place a small amount of rice glue on your fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. On some Matsuhato Kits of Japanese ladies, an outline around the face and hands is evident. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. ! Place a small amount of rice glue on your fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. OVERLAY STITCH OVERLAY STITCH Overlay stitch is an 'open' layer of stitching placed over a layer of base stitching to soften the colour of the base which can result in some interesting new colour effects. Overlay stitching is always worked in the same direction as the base layer. Overlay stitch is an 'open' layer of stitching placed over a layer of base stitching to soften the colour of the base which can result in some interesting new colour effects. Overlay stitching is always worked in the same direction as the base layer. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch the base colour. ! Stitch the base colour. ! With the designated colour for overlaying, stitch on top of the base so that approx. half of the base colour shows through. ! With the designated colour for overlaying, stitch on top of the base so that approx. half of the base colour shows through. 118 On some Matsuhato Kits of Japanese ladies, an outline around the face and hands is evident. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. ! Place a small amount of rice glue on your fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. 118 On some Matsuhato Kits of Japanese ladies, an outline around the face and hands is evident. Rather than a stitched row of Running Stitch, a strand of 2/4 pull thread is glued on which creates a more natural, subtle effect. ! Place a small amount of rice glue on your fingers. Run 12" of 2/4 pull thread in the appropriate colour between your fingers and through the glue. This will stretch out the thread to a single straight thread removing all the curl. Carefully place glued thread along desired areas. Refer to the insert. OVERLAY STITCH OVERLAY STITCH Overlay stitch is an 'open' layer of stitching placed over a layer of base stitching to soften the colour of the base which can result in some interesting new colour effects. Overlay stitching is always worked in the same direction as the base layer. Overlay stitch is an 'open' layer of stitching placed over a layer of base stitching to soften the colour of the base which can result in some interesting new colour effects. Overlay stitching is always worked in the same direction as the base layer. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch the base colour. ! Stitch the base colour. ! With the designated colour for overlaying, stitch on top of the base so that approx. half of the base colour shows through. ! With the designated colour for overlaying, stitch on top of the base so that approx. half of the base colour shows through. 118 118 PADDING PADDING This is a general term used for various techniques, to build-up or lift a section higher than the stitching behind it. It consists of working the padding stitches first and then working the 'final' stitching over the padding. This is a general term used for various techniques, to build-up or lift a section higher than the stitching behind it. It consists of working the padding stitches first and then working the 'final' stitching over the padding. APPLICATION APPLICATION The application of certain padding techniques are sometimes marked directly on the canvas; however, most often it depends on the skill level of the stitcher as to how and when to use different padding methods. The application of certain padding techniques are sometimes marked directly on the canvas; however, most often it depends on the skill level of the stitcher as to how and when to use different padding methods. To avoid running short of the thread supplied with the kit, it is recommended that you use leftover thread for padding that is similar in colour to the kit thread being used. To avoid running short of the thread supplied with the kit, it is recommended that you use leftover thread for padding that is similar in colour to the kit thread being used. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Listed are the various Padding techniques that are fully explained in the subsequent pages. Listed are the various Padding techniques that are fully explained in the subsequent pages. Deep Dimensional Double Stitching Fluffy Stitch used as padding Line Padding Raised Padding Solid Padding Tapered Padding Three Colour Padding Deep Dimensional Double Stitching Fluffy Stitch used as padding Line Padding Raised Padding Solid Padding Tapered Padding Three Colour Padding 119 119 PADDING PADDING This is a general term used for various techniques, to build-up or lift a section higher than the stitching behind it. It consists of working the padding stitches first and then working the 'final' stitching over the padding. This is a general term used for various techniques, to build-up or lift a section higher than the stitching behind it. It consists of working the padding stitches first and then working the 'final' stitching over the padding. APPLICATION APPLICATION The application of certain padding techniques are sometimes marked directly on the canvas; however, most often it depends on the skill level of the stitcher as to how and when to use different padding methods. The application of certain padding techniques are sometimes marked directly on the canvas; however, most often it depends on the skill level of the stitcher as to how and when to use different padding methods. To avoid running short of the thread supplied with the kit, it is recommended that you use leftover thread for padding that is similar in colour to the kit thread being used. To avoid running short of the thread supplied with the kit, it is recommended that you use leftover thread for padding that is similar in colour to the kit thread being used. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Listed are the various Padding techniques that are fully explained in the subsequent pages. Listed are the various Padding techniques that are fully explained in the subsequent pages. Deep Dimensional Double Stitching Fluffy Stitch used as padding Line Padding Raised Padding Solid Padding Tapered Padding Three Colour Padding Deep Dimensional Double Stitching Fluffy Stitch used as padding Line Padding Raised Padding Solid Padding Tapered Padding Three Colour Padding 119 119 PADDING, DEEP DIMENSIONAL PADDING, DEEP DIMENSIONAL This technique utilizes cotton batten for the padding layer which 1s then overstitched with bunks thread. Since the overall effect is very dramatic and eye- catching, care should be taken that it does not overpower the whole picture. This technique utilizes cotton batten for the padding layer which 1s then overstitched with bunks thread. Since the overall effect is very dramatic and eye- catching, care should be taken that it does not overpower the whole picture. APPLICATION APPLICATION Has been used on flower pods, rollovers and petals. Stitcher's discretion. Has been used on flower pods, rollovers and petals. Stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Depending on the size of the area to be covered, cut off the appropriate piece of a cotton ball. ! Depending on the size of the area to be covered, cut off the appropriate piece of a cotton ball. ! Roll this piece between your fingers and the palms of your hands. Trim to fit the area. ! Roll this piece between your fingers and the palms of your hands. Trim to fit the area. ! Spread a small dab of rice glue on the canvas and place the trimmed piece of cotton batten on top. ! Spread a small dab of rice glue on the canvas and place the trimmed piece of cotton batten on top. ! Tuck in any loose edges of the cotton batten ! Tuck in any loose edges of the cotton batten ! To anchor the cotton, work a Zig Zag pattern across the cotton thread using a fluffy needle and 1/4 pull thread. ! To anchor the cotton, work a Zig Zag pattern across the cotton thread using a fluffy needle and 1/4 pull thread. 120 120 PADDING, DEEP DIMENSIONAL PADDING, DEEP DIMENSIONAL This technique utilizes cotton batten for the padding layer which 1s then overstitched with bunks thread. Since the overall effect is very dramatic and eye- catching, care should be taken that it does not overpower the whole picture. This technique utilizes cotton batten for the padding layer which 1s then overstitched with bunks thread. Since the overall effect is very dramatic and eye- catching, care should be taken that it does not overpower the whole picture. APPLICATION APPLICATION Has been used on flower pods, rollovers and petals. Stitcher's discretion. Has been used on flower pods, rollovers and petals. Stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Depending on the size of the area to be covered, cut off the appropriate piece of a cotton ball. ! Depending on the size of the area to be covered, cut off the appropriate piece of a cotton ball. ! Roll this piece between your fingers and the palms of your hands. Trim to fit the area. ! Roll this piece between your fingers and the palms of your hands. Trim to fit the area. ! Spread a small dab of rice glue on the canvas and place the trimmed piece of cotton batten on top. ! Spread a small dab of rice glue on the canvas and place the trimmed piece of cotton batten on top. ! Tuck in any loose edges of the cotton batten ! Tuck in any loose edges of the cotton batten ! To anchor the cotton, work a Zig Zag pattern across the cotton thread using a fluffy needle and 1/4 pull thread. ! To anchor the cotton, work a Zig Zag pattern across the cotton thread using a fluffy needle and 1/4 pull thread. 120 120 ! Work another opposite Zig Zag pattern (zig where you zagged and zag where you zigged!). ! Work another opposite Zig Zag pattern (zig where you zagged and zag where you zigged!). ! Overstitch the entire area with 1/4 pull thread, one length stitches. Refer to your insert for proper stitch direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Overstitch the entire area with 1/4 pull thread, one length stitches. Refer to your insert for proper stitch direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Take the needle up and over the padding, then punch. ! Take the needle up and over the padding, then punch. ! Grab the loop with your left hand under the canvas. ! Grab the loop with your left hand under the canvas. ! Lay the thread over the padding. ! Lay the thread over the padding. ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension . ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension . PADDING, DOUBLE STITCHING PADDING, DOUBLE STITCHING Two layers of stitching, one on top of the other both running in the same direction, the first stitching acts as the padding layer. Two layers of stitching, one on top of the other both running in the same direction, the first stitching acts as the padding layer. APPLICATION APPLICATION Fish scales, Stitcher's discretion. Fish scales, Stitcher's discretion. 121 121 ! Work another opposite Zig Zag pattern (zig where you zagged and zag where you zigged!). ! Work another opposite Zig Zag pattern (zig where you zagged and zag where you zigged!). ! Overstitch the entire area with 1/4 pull thread, one length stitches. Refer to your insert for proper stitch direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Overstitch the entire area with 1/4 pull thread, one length stitches. Refer to your insert for proper stitch direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Take the needle up and over the padding, then punch. ! Take the needle up and over the padding, then punch. ! Grab the loop with your left hand under the canvas. ! Grab the loop with your left hand under the canvas. ! Lay the thread over the padding. ! Lay the thread over the padding. ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension . ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension . PADDING, DOUBLE STITCHING PADDING, DOUBLE STITCHING Two layers of stitching, one on top of the other both running in the same direction, the first stitching acts as the padding layer. Two layers of stitching, one on top of the other both running in the same direction, the first stitching acts as the padding layer. APPLICATION APPLICATION Fish scales, Stitcher's discretion. Fish scales, Stitcher's discretion. 121 121 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Fill in a scale in the proper direction. ! Fill in a scale in the proper direction. ! On the last stitch leave the needle in the canvas and turn the work frame so that you can now work the second layer right over the top of the first layer. ! On the last stitch leave the needle in the canvas and turn the work frame so that you can now work the second layer right over the top of the first layer. PADDING, FLUFFY PADDING, FLUFFY Fluffy stitching can be used to pad or build-up a flat stitch area. The fluffy stitching is done first and completely brushed out before any flat stitching is attempted. The finished effect is not quite as dramatic as Deep Dimensional Padding. Fluffy stitching can be used to pad or build-up a flat stitch area. The fluffy stitching is done first and completely brushed out before any flat stitching is attempted. The finished effect is not quite as dramatic as Deep Dimensional Padding. APPLICATION APPLICATION Limited use on kits, at stitcher's discretion. Very effective when over-stitched with 1/4 pull thread. Limited use on kits, at stitcher's discretion. Very effective when over-stitched with 1/4 pull thread. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Trace the area to be padded onto the back of the canvas. ! Trace the area to be padded onto the back of the canvas. ! Stitch the area with Fluffy Stitch, 2/4 pull thread, remembering to backtrack the first 3 and last 3 stitches. (See Fluffy Stitch) ! Stitch the area with Fluffy Stitch, 2/4 pull thread, remembering to backtrack the first 3 and last 3 stitches. (See Fluffy Stitch) 122 TECHNIQUE 122 TECHNIQUE ! Fill in a scale in the proper direction. ! Fill in a scale in the proper direction. ! On the last stitch leave the needle in the canvas and turn the work frame so that you can now work the second layer right over the top of the first layer. ! On the last stitch leave the needle in the canvas and turn the work frame so that you can now work the second layer right over the top of the first layer. PADDING, FLUFFY PADDING, FLUFFY Fluffy stitching can be used to pad or build-up a flat stitch area. The fluffy stitching is done first and completely brushed out before any flat stitching is attempted. The finished effect is not quite as dramatic as Deep Dimensional Padding. Fluffy stitching can be used to pad or build-up a flat stitch area. The fluffy stitching is done first and completely brushed out before any flat stitching is attempted. The finished effect is not quite as dramatic as Deep Dimensional Padding. APPLICATION APPLICATION Limited use on kits, at stitcher's discretion. Very effective when over-stitched with 1/4 pull thread. Limited use on kits, at stitcher's discretion. Very effective when over-stitched with 1/4 pull thread. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Trace the area to be padded onto the back of the canvas. ! Trace the area to be padded onto the back of the canvas. ! Stitch the area with Fluffy Stitch, 2/4 pull thread, remembering to backtrack the first 3 and last 3 stitches. (See Fluffy Stitch) ! Stitch the area with Fluffy Stitch, 2/4 pull thread, remembering to backtrack the first 3 and last 3 stitches. (See Fluffy Stitch) 122 122 ! Protect the front side of the canvas with 2 rows of masking tape around the stitching. Brush ! Protect the front side of the canvas with 2 rows of masking tape around the stitching. Brush ! Trim or 'sculpture' the fluffy so that the edges are smooth and in line with the screen-printing. ! Trim or 'sculpture' the fluffy so that the edges are smooth and in line with the screen-printing. ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread using one length stitches. To ensure that this top-stitching is smooth and even: ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread using one length stitches. To ensure that this top-stitching is smooth and even: ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension. ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension. PADDING LINE PADDING LINE Line Padding is worked similar to a line of Running Stitch except that this line of thread around the edges of an area will not be visible when the stitching is completed -the final layer is stitched over the Line Padding. Line Padding is worked similar to a line of Running Stitch except that this line of thread around the edges of an area will not be visible when the stitching is completed -the final layer is stitched over the Line Padding. ! This single row of stitching is used to define the edges and helps keep the stitching smooth and even. ! This single row of stitching is used to define the edges and helps keep the stitching smooth and even. ! This method of padding can be used whenever the stitch direction of the area can cross over the padding thread. ! This method of padding can be used whenever the stitch direction of the area can cross over the padding thread. It is a very important technique because: 1. It elevates the perimeter of an area 2. Helps to hide the screen-printing. 3. Helps to maintain a smooth, even edge. It is a very important technique because: 1. It elevates the perimeter of an area 2. Helps to hide the screen-printing. 3. Helps to maintain a smooth, even edge. 123 123 ! Protect the front side of the canvas with 2 rows of masking tape around the stitching. Brush ! Protect the front side of the canvas with 2 rows of masking tape around the stitching. Brush ! Trim or 'sculpture' the fluffy so that the edges are smooth and in line with the screen-printing. ! Trim or 'sculpture' the fluffy so that the edges are smooth and in line with the screen-printing. ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread using one length stitches. To ensure that this top-stitching is smooth and even: ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread using one length stitches. To ensure that this top-stitching is smooth and even: ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension. ! Pull the back loop to adjust the tension. PADDING LINE PADDING LINE Line Padding is worked similar to a line of Running Stitch except that this line of thread around the edges of an area will not be visible when the stitching is completed -the final layer is stitched over the Line Padding. Line Padding is worked similar to a line of Running Stitch except that this line of thread around the edges of an area will not be visible when the stitching is completed -the final layer is stitched over the Line Padding. ! This single row of stitching is used to define the edges and helps keep the stitching smooth and even. ! This single row of stitching is used to define the edges and helps keep the stitching smooth and even. ! This method of padding can be used whenever the stitch direction of the area can cross over the padding thread. ! This method of padding can be used whenever the stitch direction of the area can cross over the padding thread. It is a very important technique because: 1. It elevates the perimeter of an area 2. Helps to hide the screen-printing. 3. Helps to maintain a smooth, even edge. It is a very important technique because: 1. It elevates the perimeter of an area 2. Helps to hide the screen-printing. 3. Helps to maintain a smooth, even edge. 123 123 ! Individual areas are first line padded and then completed before moving to the next item. For example; a rock pile Rock A is line padded then completely stitched. Next, Rock B will be line padded and stitched. Next, Rock C, etc. Never line pad the whole article at once, i.e. the whole rock pile. Each individual rock must be completed in order from background to foreground. ! ! Line padding stitches should be quite short (about 1/8" -1/4") to prevent it from shifting when doing the over-stitching. When there is no background stitching, line padding is used to conceal the screen-printing and to help achieve a smooth edge. ! ! Rock A is line padded then completely stitched. Next, Rock B will be line padded and stitched. Next, Rock C, etc. Never line pad the whole article at once, i.e. the whole rock pile. Each individual rock must be completed in order from background to foreground. ! ! Punch in a line of short stitches just outside the screen-printed line. This will help hide the screenprinting. Stitch the area, working over the line padding. Try to avoid serrated edges by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. Individual areas are first line padded and then completed before moving to the next item. For example; a rock pile Never line pad the whole article at once, i.e. the whole rock pile. Each individual rock must be completed in order from background to foreground. ! Line padding stitches should be quite short (about 1/8" -1/4") to prevent it from shifting when doing the over-stitching. When there is no background stitching, line padding is used to conceal the screen-printing and to help achieve a smooth edge. ! 124 When there is no background stitching, line padding is used to conceal the screen-printing and to help achieve a smooth edge. Punch in a line of short stitches just outside the screen-printed line. This will help hide the screenprinting. Stitch the area, working over the line padding. Try to avoid serrated edges by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. 124 Rock A is line padded then completely stitched. Next, Rock B will be line padded and stitched. Next, Rock C, etc. ! Line padding stitches should be quite short (about 1/8" -1/4") to prevent it from shifting when doing the over-stitching. ! 124 ! Individual areas are first line padded and then completed before moving to the next item. For example; a rock pile Punch in a line of short stitches just outside the screen-printed line. This will help hide the screenprinting. Stitch the area, working over the line padding. Try to avoid serrated edges by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. ! Individual areas are first line padded and then completed before moving to the next item. For example; a rock pile Rock A is line padded then completely stitched. Next, Rock B will be line padded and stitched. Next, Rock C, etc. Never line pad the whole article at once, i.e. the whole rock pile. Each individual rock must be completed in order from background to foreground. ! ! Line padding stitches should be quite short (about 1/8" -1/4") to prevent it from shifting when doing the over-stitching. When there is no background stitching, line padding is used to conceal the screen-printing and to help achieve a smooth edge. ! 124 Punch in a line of short stitches just outside the screen-printed line. This will help hide the screenprinting. Stitch the area, working over the line padding. Try to avoid serrated edges by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. ! When there is background stitching, line padding 'lifts' the area to be done above the background and also helps to keep an even border. ! When there is background stitching, line padding 'lifts' the area to be done above the background and also helps to keep an even border. ! Punch in a line of short stitches catching the edge of the background stitching. ! Punch in a line of short stitches catching the edge of the background stitching. ! Stitch the area, working over the line padding keeping this edge nice and even by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. ! Stitch the area, working over the line padding keeping this edge nice and even by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. PADDING, MULTI-COLOUR PADDING, MULTI-COLOUR 2 or 3 colour 2 or 3 colour Most padding techniques involve establishing a base layer in a different direction and then covering over it with the final stitching. Two or Three Colour Padding technique differs from the others in that it does not require a base layer because the 'good' stitching also acts as the padding. The explanation below is for working with 3 colours; two colour padding uses the same concept except you are only working with 2 layers of thread. Most padding techniques involve establishing a base layer in a different direction and then covering over it with the final stitching. Two or Three Colour Padding technique differs from the others in that it does not require a base layer because the 'good' stitching also acts as the padding. The explanation below is for working with 3 colours; two colour padding uses the same concept except you are only working with 2 layers of thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION Very popular technique for flowers. Very popular technique for flowers. 125 125 ! When there is background stitching, line padding 'lifts' the area to be done above the background and also helps to keep an even border. ! When there is background stitching, line padding 'lifts' the area to be done above the background and also helps to keep an even border. ! Punch in a line of short stitches catching the edge of the background stitching. ! Punch in a line of short stitches catching the edge of the background stitching. ! Stitch the area, working over the line padding keeping this edge nice and even by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. ! Stitch the area, working over the line padding keeping this edge nice and even by punching the same distance over the line padding each time. PADDING, MULTI-COLOUR PADDING, MULTI-COLOUR 2 or 3 colour 2 or 3 colour Most padding techniques involve establishing a base layer in a different direction and then covering over it with the final stitching. Two or Three Colour Padding technique differs from the others in that it does not require a base layer because the 'good' stitching also acts as the padding. The explanation below is for working with 3 colours; two colour padding uses the same concept except you are only working with 2 layers of thread. Most padding techniques involve establishing a base layer in a different direction and then covering over it with the final stitching. Two or Three Colour Padding technique differs from the others in that it does not require a base layer because the 'good' stitching also acts as the padding. The explanation below is for working with 3 colours; two colour padding uses the same concept except you are only working with 2 layers of thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION Very popular technique for flowers. Very popular technique for flowers. 125 125 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! With the first colour, stitch the entire petal from the center to within 1/8" of the outside edge. ! With the first colour, stitch the entire petal from the center to within 1/8" of the outside edge. ! The second shade is then worked on top of the first colour except for the small center area where the first colour will be left showing. The stitches at the center edge should be alternating long and short in length so that it appears that the two colours are blending together and 1/8" short of the outer edge. ! The second shade is then worked on top of the first colour except for the small center area where the first colour will be left showing. The stitches at the center edge should be alternating long and short in length so that it appears that the two colours are blending together and 1/8" short of the outer edge. ! The third colour is worked in the same manner, leaving some of the first two shades exposed and stitched evenly over the outer edge . ! The third colour is worked in the same manner, leaving some of the first two shades exposed and stitched evenly over the outer edge . 126 TECHNIQUE 126 TECHNIQUE ! With the first colour, stitch the entire petal from the center to within 1/8" of the outside edge. ! With the first colour, stitch the entire petal from the center to within 1/8" of the outside edge. ! The second shade is then worked on top of the first colour except for the small center area where the first colour will be left showing. The stitches at the center edge should be alternating long and short in length so that it appears that the two colours are blending together and 1/8" short of the outer edge. ! The second shade is then worked on top of the first colour except for the small center area where the first colour will be left showing. The stitches at the center edge should be alternating long and short in length so that it appears that the two colours are blending together and 1/8" short of the outer edge. ! The third colour is worked in the same manner, leaving some of the first two shades exposed and stitched evenly over the outer edge . ! The third colour is worked in the same manner, leaving some of the first two shades exposed and stitched evenly over the outer edge . 126 126 PADDING, RAISED PADDING, RAISED The area to be raised is first padded with progressively larger sections of 2 or more levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. The area to be raised is first padded with progressively larger sections of 2 or more levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. APPLICATION APPLICATION Tiger's Eye (3 levels), Owl's Eye (2 levels), Stitcher's Discretion. Tiger's Eye (3 levels), Owl's Eye (2 levels), Stitcher's Discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Example: Padding a tiger's eye Example: Padding a tiger's eye ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! Stitch the second layer larger and over the first layer. ! Stitch the second layer larger and over the first layer. ! Stitch the third layer larger and over the second area. ! Stitch the third layer larger and over the second area. 127 127 PADDING, RAISED PADDING, RAISED The area to be raised is first padded with progressively larger sections of 2 or more levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. The area to be raised is first padded with progressively larger sections of 2 or more levels of flat stitching to create a mound or bulge. Each padding level should be stitched in a different direction. APPLICATION APPLICATION Tiger's Eye (3 levels), Owl's Eye (2 levels), Stitcher's Discretion. Tiger's Eye (3 levels), Owl's Eye (2 levels), Stitcher's Discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Example: Padding a tiger's eye Example: Padding a tiger's eye ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! First layer: Stitch the pupil area. ! Stitch the second layer larger and over the first layer. ! Stitch the second layer larger and over the first layer. ! Stitch the third layer larger and over the second area. ! Stitch the third layer larger and over the second area. 127 127 PADDING, SOLID PADDING, SOLID Used when an entire area is to be raised by filling it in with a base layer of Flat Stitching. Direction is not important with this padding layer as long as it is on a different angle to the final layer. The top stitching can utilize all three different pulls (i.e. 1/4, 2/4 or 3/4) dependent on the area being stitched; for example, the bridge of a bird's beak has an area of solid padding which is then overstitched with 3/4 polished thread. Used when an entire area is to be raised by filling it in with a base layer of Flat Stitching. Direction is not important with this padding layer as long as it is on a different angle to the final layer. The top stitching can utilize all three different pulls (i.e. 1/4, 2/4 or 3/4) dependent on the area being stitched; for example, the bridge of a bird's beak has an area of solid padding which is then overstitched with 3/4 polished thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery, eg. Petal Rollovers. Stitcher's Discretion. Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery, eg. Petal Rollovers. Stitcher's Discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Fill in the area with regular flat stitching - padding layer. ! Fill in the area with regular flat stitching - padding layer. ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread in the proper direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread in the proper direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. 128 128 PADDING, SOLID PADDING, SOLID Used when an entire area is to be raised by filling it in with a base layer of Flat Stitching. Direction is not important with this padding layer as long as it is on a different angle to the final layer. The top stitching can utilize all three different pulls (i.e. 1/4, 2/4 or 3/4) dependent on the area being stitched; for example, the bridge of a bird's beak has an area of solid padding which is then overstitched with 3/4 polished thread. Used when an entire area is to be raised by filling it in with a base layer of Flat Stitching. Direction is not important with this padding layer as long as it is on a different angle to the final layer. The top stitching can utilize all three different pulls (i.e. 1/4, 2/4 or 3/4) dependent on the area being stitched; for example, the bridge of a bird's beak has an area of solid padding which is then overstitched with 3/4 polished thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery, eg. Petal Rollovers. Stitcher's Discretion. Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery, eg. Petal Rollovers. Stitcher's Discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Fill in the area with regular flat stitching - padding layer. ! Fill in the area with regular flat stitching - padding layer. ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread in the proper direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Overstitch the padding with the appropriate thread in the proper direction. To ensure that this topstitching is smooth and even: ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Lift the needle up from the canvas after every stitch to get some extra thread. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. ! Take the needle up and over the padding. 128 128 PADING, TAPERED PADING, TAPERED With this padding technique the stitches are worked close together in the area where the greatest concentration is required and then tapered off to a single thread width. This tapering method prevents a sudden drop-off of the top stitching from the high to the low area. With this padding technique the stitches are worked close together in the area where the greatest concentration is required and then tapered off to a single thread width. This tapering method prevents a sudden drop-off of the top stitching from the high to the low area. APPLICATION APPLICATION Tapered Padding is frequently used for areas where only a portion of the item is to be raised. Example, the overlapping sections of bamboo leaves. Tapered Padding is frequently used for areas where only a portion of the item is to be raised. Example, the overlapping sections of bamboo leaves. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! These padding stitches should be in a different direction from the final stitching. Example, stitch direction for a bamboo leaf runs back and forth from the tip to the base. The padding should be worked across the leaf. ! These padding stitches should be in a different direction from the final stitching. Example, stitch direction for a bamboo leaf runs back and forth from the tip to the base. The padding should be worked across the leaf. ! Concentrate the padding in the area where the most 'lift' is required, for example, the section of the leaf where it overlaps another leaf. ! Concentrate the padding in the area where the most 'lift' is required, for example, the section of the leaf where it overlaps another leaf. ! As you move past this section, taper off the padding to one thread by opening up the rows/stitches. ! As you move past this section, taper off the padding to one thread by opening up the rows/stitches. 129 129 PADING, TAPERED PADING, TAPERED With this padding technique the stitches are worked close together in the area where the greatest concentration is required and then tapered off to a single thread width. This tapering method prevents a sudden drop-off of the top stitching from the high to the low area. With this padding technique the stitches are worked close together in the area where the greatest concentration is required and then tapered off to a single thread width. This tapering method prevents a sudden drop-off of the top stitching from the high to the low area. APPLICATION APPLICATION Tapered Padding is frequently used for areas where only a portion of the item is to be raised. Example, the overlapping sections of bamboo leaves. Tapered Padding is frequently used for areas where only a portion of the item is to be raised. Example, the overlapping sections of bamboo leaves. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! These padding stitches should be in a different direction from the final stitching. Example, stitch direction for a bamboo leaf runs back and forth from the tip to the base. The padding should be worked across the leaf. ! These padding stitches should be in a different direction from the final stitching. Example, stitch direction for a bamboo leaf runs back and forth from the tip to the base. The padding should be worked across the leaf. ! Concentrate the padding in the area where the most 'lift' is required, for example, the section of the leaf where it overlaps another leaf. ! Concentrate the padding in the area where the most 'lift' is required, for example, the section of the leaf where it overlaps another leaf. ! As you move past this section, taper off the padding to one thread by opening up the rows/stitches. ! As you move past this section, taper off the padding to one thread by opening up the rows/stitches. 129 129 PICOT STITCH PICOT STITCH Creates small knobs of thread, which can be left as individual dots or joined together with a running stitch to create a continuous row. Creates small knobs of thread, which can be left as individual dots or joined together with a running stitch to create a continuous row. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitching; flowers; scenes; water effects (splashes, waves) Decorative stitching; flowers; scenes; water effects (splashes, waves) TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Single Picot Single Picot ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas. ! Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas. ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Cut and pull the thread to the back of the canvas. ! Cut and pull the thread to the back of the canvas. 130 130 PICOT STITCH PICOT STITCH Creates small knobs of thread, which can be left as individual dots or joined together with a running stitch to create a continuous row. Creates small knobs of thread, which can be left as individual dots or joined together with a running stitch to create a continuous row. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitching; flowers; scenes; water effects (splashes, waves) Decorative stitching; flowers; scenes; water effects (splashes, waves) TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Single Picot Single Picot ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas. ! Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas. ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Cut and pull the thread to the back of the canvas. ! Cut and pull the thread to the back of the canvas. 130 130 Picot Row Picot Row ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! **Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas ! **Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Take a 1/2" stitch. ** (Known as a Lead Stitch) ! Take a 1/2" stitch. ** (Known as a Lead Stitch) ! Repeat from ** to **. ! Repeat from ** to **. Note: The distance that the needle is lifted determines the size of the dot. Note: The distance that the needle is lifted determines the size of the dot. Variations Variations ! Shorten or lengthen the Lead Stitch between each Picot. ! Shorten or lengthen the Lead Stitch between each Picot. ! Do Picot Rows, side by side, using different colours of thread. ! Do Picot Rows, side by side, using different colours of thread. ! Shorten or lengthen the height that the needle is raised to make smaller or larger Picots. ! Shorten or lengthen the height that the needle is raised to make smaller or larger Picots. 131 Picot Row 131 Picot Row ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! Punch needle into canvas, pull the end of the thread to the back. ! **Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas ! **Lift the needle about 1/2" off of the canvas ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Punch into the canvas right beside the last Punch mark. ! Take a 1/2" stitch. ** (Known as a Lead Stitch) ! Take a 1/2" stitch. ** (Known as a Lead Stitch) ! Repeat from ** to **. ! Repeat from ** to **. Note: The distance that the needle is lifted determines the size of the dot. Note: The distance that the needle is lifted determines the size of the dot. Variations Variations ! Shorten or lengthen the Lead Stitch between each Picot. ! Shorten or lengthen the Lead Stitch between each Picot. ! Do Picot Rows, side by side, using different colours of thread. ! Do Picot Rows, side by side, using different colours of thread. ! Shorten or lengthen the height that the needle is raised to make smaller or larger Picots. ! Shorten or lengthen the height that the needle is raised to make smaller or larger Picots. 131 131 PILE STITCH PILE STITCH (see Fluffy Stitch) (see Fluffy Stitch) PINE NEEDLE STITCH PINE NEEDLE STITCH This is a very simple stitch that resembles the letter "V". This is a very simple stitch that resembles the letter "V". APPLICATION APPLICATION Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery but is named for its specific application to stitching pine needles. Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery but is named for its specific application to stitching pine needles. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE This is basically a 1-2-3 cut method: This is basically a 1-2-3 cut method: 1 Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. 1 Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. 2 Make one stitch the desired length on a slight angle. 2 Make one stitch the desired length on a slight angle. 3 To complete the "V", punch an equal length stitch up on the same angle as the first stitch. 3 To complete the "V", punch an equal length stitch up on the same angle as the first stitch. PINE NEEDLE CLUSTERS PINE NEEDLE CLUSTERS METHOD 1 -FORMAL METHOD 1 -FORMAL A combination of Pine Needle stitches worked in 2/4 and 3/4 pull thread creates a very stylized, formal sunburst effect. A combination of Pine Needle stitches worked in 2/4 and 3/4 pull thread creates a very stylized, formal sunburst effect. 132 132 PILE STITCH PILE STITCH (see Fluffy Stitch) (see Fluffy Stitch) PINE NEEDLE STITCH PINE NEEDLE STITCH This is a very simple stitch that resembles the letter "V". This is a very simple stitch that resembles the letter "V". APPLICATION APPLICATION Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery but is named for its specific application to stitching pine needles. Extensively used in many aspects of Bunka Shishu embroidery but is named for its specific application to stitching pine needles. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE This is basically a 1-2-3 cut method: This is basically a 1-2-3 cut method: 1 Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. 1 Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. 2 Make one stitch the desired length on a slight angle. 2 Make one stitch the desired length on a slight angle. 3 To complete the "V", punch an equal length stitch up on the same angle as the first stitch. 3 To complete the "V", punch an equal length stitch up on the same angle as the first stitch. PINE NEEDLE CLUSTERS PINE NEEDLE CLUSTERS METHOD 1 -FORMAL METHOD 1 -FORMAL A combination of Pine Needle stitches worked in 2/4 and 3/4 pull thread creates a very stylized, formal sunburst effect. A combination of Pine Needle stitches worked in 2/4 and 3/4 pull thread creates a very stylized, formal sunburst effect. 132 132 ! 3/4 pull thread is used for the first step, stitching out and back from the center point. Follow the diagram working in a continuous flow of stitches. When 3/4 pull is used in a stand-alone effect like this, the thread should lay flat on the canvas and look like chain stitch. It should not be twisted or coiled. ! 3/4 pull thread is used for the first step, stitching out and back from the center point. Follow the diagram working in a continuous flow of stitches. When 3/4 pull is used in a stand-alone effect like this, the thread should lay flat on the canvas and look like chain stitch. It should not be twisted or coiled. ! Apply individual Pine Needle Stitches with 2/4 pull thread in between the 3/4 pull threads. ! Apply individual Pine Needle Stitches with 2/4 pull thread in between the 3/4 pull threads. METHOD 2 -INFORMAL METHOD 2 -INFORMAL These clusters are not defined on the canvas with Screen-printed lines. Placement is left up to the stitcher to follow the coloured insert. These clusters are not defined on the canvas with Screen-printed lines. Placement is left up to the stitcher to follow the coloured insert. ! A base layer of regular flat stitching is first established with the darkest shade of green. The stitch direction of this base stitching should follow the natural flow of the tree branch. ! A base layer of regular flat stitching is first established with the darkest shade of green. The stitch direction of this base stitching should follow the natural flow of the tree branch. ! A second flat stitched layer of medium green is then blended into the dark, following the same direction. ! A second flat stitched layer of medium green is then blended into the dark, following the same direction. 133 133 ! 3/4 pull thread is used for the first step, stitching out and back from the center point. Follow the diagram working in a continuous flow of stitches. When 3/4 pull is used in a stand-alone effect like this, the thread should lay flat on the canvas and look like chain stitch. It should not be twisted or coiled. ! 3/4 pull thread is used for the first step, stitching out and back from the center point. Follow the diagram working in a continuous flow of stitches. When 3/4 pull is used in a stand-alone effect like this, the thread should lay flat on the canvas and look like chain stitch. It should not be twisted or coiled. ! Apply individual Pine Needle Stitches with 2/4 pull thread in between the 3/4 pull threads. ! Apply individual Pine Needle Stitches with 2/4 pull thread in between the 3/4 pull threads. METHOD 2 -INFORMAL METHOD 2 -INFORMAL These clusters are not defined on the canvas with Screen-printed lines. Placement is left up to the stitcher to follow the coloured insert. These clusters are not defined on the canvas with Screen-printed lines. Placement is left up to the stitcher to follow the coloured insert. ! A base layer of regular flat stitching is first established with the darkest shade of green. The stitch direction of this base stitching should follow the natural flow of the tree branch. ! A base layer of regular flat stitching is first established with the darkest shade of green. The stitch direction of this base stitching should follow the natural flow of the tree branch. ! A second flat stitched layer of medium green is then blended into the dark, following the same direction. ! A second flat stitched layer of medium green is then blended into the dark, following the same direction. 133 133 ! Pine Needle Stitches are then placed throughout this base stitching, using the lightest green. These stitches create the focal point for the cluster and should be placed carefully to appear natural looking. ! Pine Needle Stitches are then placed throughout this base stitching, using the lightest green. These stitches create the focal point for the cluster and should be placed carefully to appear natural looking. SINGLE PINE NEEDLES SINGLE PINE NEEDLES Single pine needles (as in Matsuhato Kit #1028) are stitched with 3/4 polished thread in a 1-5 punch pattern + a small cross bar. Single pine needles (as in Matsuhato Kit #1028) are stitched with 3/4 polished thread in a 1-5 punch pattern + a small cross bar. POPCORN STITCH POPCORN STITCH When this technique is used on flower buds, it creates a significant bulge or mound along the center area. When this technique is used on flower buds, it creates a significant bulge or mound along the center area. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower buds, Round Decorative Circles. Flower buds, Round Decorative Circles. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Using 2/4 pull thread, starting at one side of the circle stitch across to the halfway point with a very close Satin Stitch. Cut and pull the end to the back. ! 134 ! Pine Needle Stitches are then placed throughout this base stitching, using the lightest green. These stitches create the focal point for the cluster and should be placed carefully to appear natural looking. Using 2/4 pull thread, starting at one side of the circle stitch across to the halfway point with a very close Satin Stitch. Cut and pull the end to the back. 134 ! Pine Needle Stitches are then placed throughout this base stitching, using the lightest green. These stitches create the focal point for the cluster and should be placed carefully to appear natural looking. SINGLE PINE NEEDLES SINGLE PINE NEEDLES Single pine needles (as in Matsuhato Kit #1028) are stitched with 3/4 polished thread in a 1-5 punch pattern + a small cross bar. Single pine needles (as in Matsuhato Kit #1028) are stitched with 3/4 polished thread in a 1-5 punch pattern + a small cross bar. POPCORN STITCH POPCORN STITCH When this technique is used on flower buds, it creates a significant bulge or mound along the center area. When this technique is used on flower buds, it creates a significant bulge or mound along the center area. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower buds, Round Decorative Circles. Flower buds, Round Decorative Circles. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Using 2/4 pull thread, starting at one side of the circle stitch across to the halfway point with a very close Satin Stitch. Cut and pull the end to the back. 134 ! Using 2/4 pull thread, starting at one side of the circle stitch across to the halfway point with a very close Satin Stitch. Cut and pull the end to the back. 134 ! Push a straight pin under the layer of thread through the canvas. With the pin, push the threads to the side. ! Push a straight pin under the layer of thread through the canvas. With the pin, push the threads to the side. ! Rotate the canvas and stitch the second half starting from the side and working towards the center. Crowd the stitches together in the middle. Cut and pull the end to the back. ! Rotate the canvas and stitch the second half starting from the side and working towards the center. Crowd the stitches together in the middle. Cut and pull the end to the back. ! Remove the straight pin. ! Remove the straight pin. REVERSE STITCH REVERSE STITCH This is a very easy stitch, which creates a small knob of thread on the front of the canvas. It is worked with the needle under the work frame and punched to the front. This is a very easy stitch, which creates a small knob of thread on the front of the canvas. It is worked with the needle under the work frame and punched to the front. APPLICATION APPLICATION Reverse stitch, is extensively used by stitchers, at all levels to create many different effects. Reverse stitch, is extensively used by stitchers, at all levels to create many different effects. Scenes: Flowers: Birds: Scenes: Flowers: Birds: Small ground flowers, moss on trees Often used in the centers Pupil of a bird's eye; accents on a crane's leg Small ground flowers, moss on trees Often used in the centers Pupil of a bird's eye; accents on a crane's leg 135 135 ! Push a straight pin under the layer of thread through the canvas. With the pin, push the threads to the side. ! Push a straight pin under the layer of thread through the canvas. With the pin, push the threads to the side. ! Rotate the canvas and stitch the second half starting from the side and working towards the center. Crowd the stitches together in the middle. Cut and pull the end to the back. ! Rotate the canvas and stitch the second half starting from the side and working towards the center. Crowd the stitches together in the middle. Cut and pull the end to the back. ! Remove the straight pin. ! Remove the straight pin. REVERSE STITCH REVERSE STITCH This is a very easy stitch, which creates a small knob of thread on the front of the canvas. It is worked with the needle under the work frame and punched to the front. This is a very easy stitch, which creates a small knob of thread on the front of the canvas. It is worked with the needle under the work frame and punched to the front. APPLICATION APPLICATION Reverse stitch, is extensively used by stitchers, at all levels to create many different effects. Reverse stitch, is extensively used by stitchers, at all levels to create many different effects. Scenes: Flowers: Birds: Scenes: Flowers: Birds: Small ground flowers, moss on trees Often used in the centers Pupil of a bird's eye; accents on a crane's leg 135 Small ground flowers, moss on trees Often used in the centers Pupil of a bird's eye; accents on a crane's leg 135 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Use 2/4 pull in either a flat or fluffy needle depending on the desired height of the knob (Reverse Stitch done with a fluffy needle will be much longer). ! Use 2/4 pull in either a flat or fluffy needle depending on the desired height of the knob (Reverse Stitch done with a fluffy needle will be much longer). ! With the right side of the canvas facing you, take the needle to the back of the canvas. ! With the right side of the canvas facing you, take the needle to the back of the canvas. ! Spread two fingers of the left hand on the canvas at the point where the needle will punch through. This helps to steady the canvas. ! Spread two fingers of the left hand on the canvas at the point where the needle will punch through. This helps to steady the canvas. Right side Wrong side Right side Wrong side ! Punch the needle up as far as it will go; withdraw the needle. ! Punch the needle up as far as it will go; withdraw the needle. ! If an area is to be filled in with Reverse Stitch, continue punching up from the back. ! If an area is to be filled in with Reverse Stitch, continue punching up from the back. ! When working with Reverse stitching it is very important that no tension is placed on the thread or the knobs will not stay. ! When working with Reverse stitching it is very important that no tension is placed on the thread or the knobs will not stay. ! Cut the thread from the back leaving about a 1/2" of thread. ! Cut the thread from the back leaving about a 1/2" of thread. 136 136 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Use 2/4 pull in either a flat or fluffy needle depending on the desired height of the knob (Reverse Stitch done with a fluffy needle will be much longer). ! Use 2/4 pull in either a flat or fluffy needle depending on the desired height of the knob (Reverse Stitch done with a fluffy needle will be much longer). ! With the right side of the canvas facing you, take the needle to the back of the canvas. ! With the right side of the canvas facing you, take the needle to the back of the canvas. ! Spread two fingers of the left hand on the canvas at the point where the needle will punch through. This helps to steady the canvas. ! Spread two fingers of the left hand on the canvas at the point where the needle will punch through. This helps to steady the canvas. Right side Wrong side Right side Wrong side ! Punch the needle up as far as it will go; withdraw the needle. ! Punch the needle up as far as it will go; withdraw the needle. ! If an area is to be filled in with Reverse Stitch, continue punching up from the back. ! If an area is to be filled in with Reverse Stitch, continue punching up from the back. ! When working with Reverse stitching it is very important that no tension is placed on the thread or the knobs will not stay. ! When working with Reverse stitching it is very important that no tension is placed on the thread or the knobs will not stay. ! Cut the thread from the back leaving about a 1/2" of thread. ! Cut the thread from the back leaving about a 1/2" of thread. 136 136 REVERSE STITCH - WET REVERSE STITCH - WET Please refer to the description of the original Reverse Stitch on page 135 Please refer to the description of the original Reverse Stitch on page 135 The wet reverse stitch is used when you want a softer, looser curl in your thread. The wet reverse stitch is used when you want a softer, looser curl in your thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION May be used in a Wisteria or Lilac type flower giving the appearance of the flower hanging downward. May be used in a Wisteria or Lilac type flower giving the appearance of the flower hanging downward. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! ! ! follow the directions for the original Reverse dip your finger into some clear water and wet the knobs on the right side of your canvas while still wet take your bunka needle and pick at the knobs as well and you will notice they will begin to relax and hang. Do NOT soak. This step can be done several times until you are satisfied with your work. Let each application of water dry before repeating the steps. If you overdo you will have a straight thread which loses the pretty effect. ! ! ! follow the directions for the original Reverse dip your finger into some clear water and wet the knobs on the right side of your canvas while still wet take your bunka needle and pick at the knobs as well and you will notice they will begin to relax and hang. Do NOT soak. This step can be done several times until you are satisfied with your work. Let each application of water dry before repeating the steps. If you overdo you will have a straight thread which loses the pretty effect. RICE GLUE RICE GLUE Rice glue is strongly recommended for any areas requiring adhesive (gold ribbon eye, highlights) as opposed to common white craft glue. Rice glue is strongly recommended for any areas requiring adhesive (gold ribbon eye, highlights) as opposed to common white craft glue. 137 137 REVERSE STITCH - WET REVERSE STITCH - WET Please refer to the description of the original Reverse Stitch on page 135 Please refer to the description of the original Reverse Stitch on page 135 The wet reverse stitch is used when you want a softer, looser curl in your thread. The wet reverse stitch is used when you want a softer, looser curl in your thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION May be used in a Wisteria or Lilac type flower giving the appearance of the flower hanging downward. May be used in a Wisteria or Lilac type flower giving the appearance of the flower hanging downward. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! ! ! follow the directions for the original Reverse dip your finger into some clear water and wet the knobs on the right side of your canvas while still wet take your bunka needle and pick at the knobs as well and you will notice they will begin to relax and hang. Do NOT soak. This step can be done several times until you are satisfied with your work. Let each application of water dry before repeating the steps. If you overdo you will have a straight thread which loses the pretty effect. ! ! ! follow the directions for the original Reverse dip your finger into some clear water and wet the knobs on the right side of your canvas while still wet take your bunka needle and pick at the knobs as well and you will notice they will begin to relax and hang. Do NOT soak. This step can be done several times until you are satisfied with your work. Let each application of water dry before repeating the steps. If you overdo you will have a straight thread which loses the pretty effect. RICE GLUE RICE GLUE Rice glue is strongly recommended for any areas requiring adhesive (gold ribbon eye, highlights) as opposed to common white craft glue. Rice glue is strongly recommended for any areas requiring adhesive (gold ribbon eye, highlights) as opposed to common white craft glue. 137 137 This rice-based glue comes in a plastic tube and is manufactured in Japan. This rice-based glue comes in a plastic tube and is manufactured in Japan. It is opaque when wet but becomes transparent when dry. Apply rice glue with a toothpick or a fine syringe. It is opaque when wet but becomes transparent when dry. Apply rice glue with a toothpick or a fine syringe. RING STITCH RING STITCH (also referred to as Lazy Daisy Stitch) (also referred to as Lazy Daisy Stitch) Ring stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. Ring stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitch frequently used in the centers of flowers. Decorative stitch frequently used in the centers of flowers. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. ! With left hand, punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! With left hand, punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! Still holding the needle with the left hand, grab the loop of thread from the side of the needle. ! Still holding the needle with the left hand, grab the loop of thread from the side of the needle. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your right hand. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your right hand. 138 138 This rice-based glue comes in a plastic tube and is manufactured in Japan. This rice-based glue comes in a plastic tube and is manufactured in Japan. It is opaque when wet but becomes transparent when dry. Apply rice glue with a toothpick or a fine syringe. It is opaque when wet but becomes transparent when dry. Apply rice glue with a toothpick or a fine syringe. RING STITCH RING STITCH (also referred to as Lazy Daisy Stitch) (also referred to as Lazy Daisy Stitch) Ring stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. Ring stitch utilizes whole bunka thread in a bunka needle. Loops of un-pulled thread are created by punching up from the back side of the canvas. Please refer to 'How To Thread The Needle With Whole Thread'. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative stitch frequently used in the centers of flowers. Decorative stitch frequently used in the centers of flowers. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. ! Have about 1.5" of un-pulled thread extending from the eye of the needle. ! With left hand, punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! With left hand, punch needle with whole thread up from the back of the canvas through to the front. ! Still holding the needle with the left hand, grab the loop of thread from the side of the needle. ! Still holding the needle with the left hand, grab the loop of thread from the side of the needle. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your right hand. ! Slowly withdraw the needle, still holding the loop in your right hand. 138 138 If a longer ring stitch is desired, carefully pull up this loop. If a shorter ring is required pull down on the needle. If a longer ring stitch is desired, carefully pull up this loop. If a shorter ring is required pull down on the needle. Grab thread here Grab thread here ! To move to the next stitch, create some slack in the thread by pulling the needle down (1/2" -1"). ! To move to the next stitch, create some slack in the thread by pulling the needle down (1/2" -1"). ! Repeat above steps -loops should be the same length. ! Repeat above steps -loops should be the same length. ! Loops may be tacked down with a small 'Couching Stitch' to simulate small daisy flowers. ! Loops may be tacked down with a small 'Couching Stitch' to simulate small daisy flowers. RUNNING STITCH RUNNING STITCH Is a single line of stitches. Keep the headlight pointing in the stitch direction so that the thread is perfectly aligned exactly with the screen printing. If the screen-printing shows through, it detracts from the overall beauty of the picture. Is a single line of stitches. Keep the headlight pointing in the stitch direction so that the thread is perfectly aligned exactly with the screen printing. If the screen-printing shows through, it detracts from the overall beauty of the picture. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower stems, small tree branches, etc. Flower stems, small tree branches, etc. 139 If a longer ring stitch is desired, carefully pull up this loop. If a shorter ring is required pull down on the needle. 139 If a longer ring stitch is desired, carefully pull up this loop. If a shorter ring is required pull down on the needle. Grab thread here Grab thread here ! To move to the next stitch, create some slack in the thread by pulling the needle down (1/2" -1"). ! To move to the next stitch, create some slack in the thread by pulling the needle down (1/2" -1"). ! Repeat above steps -loops should be the same length. ! Repeat above steps -loops should be the same length. ! Loops may be tacked down with a small 'Couching Stitch' to simulate small daisy flowers. ! Loops may be tacked down with a small 'Couching Stitch' to simulate small daisy flowers. RUNNING STITCH RUNNING STITCH Is a single line of stitches. Keep the headlight pointing in the stitch direction so that the thread is perfectly aligned exactly with the screen printing. If the screen-printing shows through, it detracts from the overall beauty of the picture. Is a single line of stitches. Keep the headlight pointing in the stitch direction so that the thread is perfectly aligned exactly with the screen printing. If the screen-printing shows through, it detracts from the overall beauty of the picture. APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower stems, small tree branches, etc. Flower stems, small tree branches, etc. 139 139 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Punch in and pull the end to the back. ! Punch in and pull the end to the back. ! Stitch along the line with regular 1/2" length Stitches, shortening the stitch length wherever the line is curving or changing direction. ! Stitch along the line with regular 1/2" length Stitches, shortening the stitch length wherever the line is curving or changing direction. SATIN STITCH SATIN STITCH Uses single length stitches worked back and forth over an area to create a very smooth, even surface. Most often the stitch direction is on an angle but the terminology is applied to any stitching that involves covering an area with single length stitches in any direction. Uses single length stitches worked back and forth over an area to create a very smooth, even surface. Most often the stitch direction is on an angle but the terminology is applied to any stitching that involves covering an area with single length stitches in any direction. APPLICATION APPLICATION Required basic knowledge stitch with many applications especially in small areas and in flowers and leaves. Required basic knowledge stitch with many applications especially in small areas and in flowers and leaves. 140 TECHNIQUE 140 TECHNIQUE ! Punch in and pull the end to the back. ! Punch in and pull the end to the back. ! Stitch along the line with regular 1/2" length Stitches, shortening the stitch length wherever the line is curving or changing direction. ! Stitch along the line with regular 1/2" length Stitches, shortening the stitch length wherever the line is curving or changing direction. SATIN STITCH SATIN STITCH Uses single length stitches worked back and forth over an area to create a very smooth, even surface. Most often the stitch direction is on an angle but the terminology is applied to any stitching that involves covering an area with single length stitches in any direction. Uses single length stitches worked back and forth over an area to create a very smooth, even surface. Most often the stitch direction is on an angle but the terminology is applied to any stitching that involves covering an area with single length stitches in any direction. APPLICATION APPLICATION Required basic knowledge stitch with many applications especially in small areas and in flowers and leaves. Required basic knowledge stitch with many applications especially in small areas and in flowers and leaves. 140 140 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Insert needle into canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Insert needle into canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Keep the Headlight pointing in the neutral position (to the right). ! Keep the Headlight pointing in the neutral position (to the right). ! **Take one stitch across the entire area ensuring that the screen printing is covered. ! **Take one stitch across the entire area ensuring that the screen printing is covered. ! Take another stitch back beside the starting punch. ** ! Take another stitch back beside the starting punch. ** ! Repeat from **to**. ! Repeat from **to**. Note: To change direction when working on an angle, as on a petal rollover, the stitches on one edge of the design will be crowded together but normally spaced on the opposite edge. Note: To change direction when working on an angle, as on a petal rollover, the stitches on one edge of the design will be crowded together but normally spaced on the opposite edge. line padding done first line padding done first SEAMING SEAMING Is a technique used on thin, single lines which would normally be covered over with stitching, such as the outermost branches of a tree which extend out over sky stitching. Is a technique used on thin, single lines which would normally be covered over with stitching, such as the outermost branches of a tree which extend out over sky stitching. By punching into this line as you work across the Sky, the punch marks will create a row of dots, which will prove helpful in putting the branch stitching later on. By punching into this line as you work across the Sky, the punch marks will create a row of dots, which will prove helpful in putting the branch stitching later on. 141 TECHNIQUE 141 TECHNIQUE ! Insert needle into canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Insert needle into canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Keep the Headlight pointing in the neutral position (to the right). ! Keep the Headlight pointing in the neutral position (to the right). ! **Take one stitch across the entire area ensuring that the screen printing is covered. ! **Take one stitch across the entire area ensuring that the screen printing is covered. ! Take another stitch back beside the starting punch. ** ! Take another stitch back beside the starting punch. ** ! Repeat from **to**. ! Repeat from **to**. Note: To change direction when working on an angle, as on a petal rollover, the stitches on one edge of the design will be crowded together but normally spaced on the opposite edge. Note: To change direction when working on an angle, as on a petal rollover, the stitches on one edge of the design will be crowded together but normally spaced on the opposite edge. line padding done first line padding done first SEAMING SEAMING Is a technique used on thin, single lines which would normally be covered over with stitching, such as the outermost branches of a tree which extend out over sky stitching. Is a technique used on thin, single lines which would normally be covered over with stitching, such as the outermost branches of a tree which extend out over sky stitching. By punching into this line as you work across the Sky, the punch marks will create a row of dots, which will prove helpful in putting the branch stitching later on. By punching into this line as you work across the Sky, the punch marks will create a row of dots, which will prove helpful in putting the branch stitching later on. 141 141 SKY STITCH SKY STITCH (see Flat Stitch) (see Flat Stitch) SPIRAL STITCH SPIRAL STITCH Decorative stitch - creates a tube-like coil of 2/4 pull Thread, approx. 1/8 -1/4" in length. Any background stitching must be completed before working Spiral Stitch. Decorative stitch - creates a tube-like coil of 2/4 pull Thread, approx. 1/8 -1/4" in length. Any background stitching must be completed before working Spiral Stitch. APPLICATION APPLICATION Very effective when used in flowers which have large stamens, for example, the lily; hair ringlets, decorative stitching. Very effective when used in flowers which have large stamens, for example, the lily; hair ringlets, decorative stitching. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Thread 2/4 pull in a fluffy needle. Thread 2/4 pull in a fluffy needle. 1. Punch into the canvas at one end of the area where the spiral will be placed. Pull tail to the back of the canvas. 1. Punch into the canvas at one end of the area where the spiral will be placed. Pull tail to the back of the canvas. 2. Raise the needle about 3" from the surface of the canvas. 2. Raise the needle about 3" from the surface of the canvas. Hold the needle so that the front, slotted side is facing up, horizontal to the canvas. Hold the needle so that the front, slotted side is facing up, horizontal to the canvas. 142 142 SKY STITCH SKY STITCH (see Flat Stitch) (see Flat Stitch) SPIRAL STITCH SPIRAL STITCH Decorative stitch - creates a tube-like coil of 2/4 pull Thread, approx. 1/8 -1/4" in length. Any background stitching must be completed before working Spiral Stitch. Decorative stitch - creates a tube-like coil of 2/4 pull Thread, approx. 1/8 -1/4" in length. Any background stitching must be completed before working Spiral Stitch. APPLICATION APPLICATION Very effective when used in flowers which have large stamens, for example, the lily; hair ringlets, decorative stitching. Very effective when used in flowers which have large stamens, for example, the lily; hair ringlets, decorative stitching. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Thread 2/4 pull in a fluffy needle. Thread 2/4 pull in a fluffy needle. 1. Punch into the canvas at one end of the area where the spiral will be placed. Pull tail to the back of the canvas. 1. Punch into the canvas at one end of the area where the spiral will be placed. Pull tail to the back of the canvas. 2. Raise the needle about 3" from the surface of the canvas. 2. Raise the needle about 3" from the surface of the canvas. Hold the needle so that the front, slotted side is facing up, horizontal to the canvas. Hold the needle so that the front, slotted side is facing up, horizontal to the canvas. 142 142 3. Roll the 3" length of thread around the shank of the needle. 3. Roll the 3" length of thread around the shank of the needle. 4. Punch needle back into canvas 1 mm beside the first punch mark. 4. Punch needle back into canvas 1 mm beside the first punch mark. 5. Place fingernail at the top of the roll. 5. Place fingernail at the top of the roll. 6. Slide the roll off the needle by pushing with the finger at the top of the roll. 6. Slide the roll off the needle by pushing with the finger at the top of the roll. 7. Slowly draw the needle through the roll. 7. Slowly draw the needle through the roll. 8. Punch the needle into the end of the design area and cut the thread pulling the end to the back. 8. Punch the needle into the end of the design area and cut the thread pulling the end to the back. SPLIT STITCH SPLIT STITCH Used for single line stitching, this stitch is basically two rows of Running Stitch. One placed on top of the other, creating a thicker effect than a single row of Running Stitch. Used for single line stitching, this stitch is basically two rows of Running Stitch. One placed on top of the other, creating a thicker effect than a single row of Running Stitch. 143 143 3. Roll the 3" length of thread around the shank of the needle. 3. Roll the 3" length of thread around the shank of the needle. 4. Punch needle back into canvas 1 mm beside the first punch mark. 4. Punch needle back into canvas 1 mm beside the first punch mark. 5. Place fingernail at the top of the roll. 5. Place fingernail at the top of the roll. 6. Slide the roll off the needle by pushing with the finger at the top of the roll. 6. Slide the roll off the needle by pushing with the finger at the top of the roll. 7. Slowly draw the needle through the roll. 7. Slowly draw the needle through the roll. 8. Punch the needle into the end of the design area and cut the thread pulling the end to the back. 8. Punch the needle into the end of the design area and cut the thread pulling the end to the back. SPLIT STITCH SPLIT STITCH Used for single line stitching, this stitch is basically two rows of Running Stitch. One placed on top of the other, creating a thicker effect than a single row of Running Stitch. Used for single line stitching, this stitch is basically two rows of Running Stitch. One placed on top of the other, creating a thicker effect than a single row of Running Stitch. 143 143 APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower stems, stitcher's discretion. Flower stems, stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Work a row of Running Stitch along the screen-printed line. ! Work a row of Running Stitch along the screen-printed line. ! At the end of the line, turn the Headlight so it is facing back down the row of Running Stitch. ! At the end of the line, turn the Headlight so it is facing back down the row of Running Stitch. ! Split the thread of each stitch in the first row by punching through the fibers of each original stitch. ! Split the thread of each stitch in the first row by punching through the fibers of each original stitch. STITCH AND CUTS STITCH AND CUTS (Also referred to as Stitch & Clips) (Also referred to as Stitch & Clips) Terminology used for a single stitch. Stitch and Cuts are a required basic technique. Terminology used for a single stitch. Stitch and Cuts are a required basic technique. APPLICATION APPLICATION General knowledge with many applications: General knowledge with many applications: ! Fill in bald spots in flat stitching. ! 144 Fill in bald spots in flat stitching. 144 APPLICATION APPLICATION Flower stems, stitcher's discretion. Flower stems, stitcher's discretion. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Work a row of Running Stitch along the screen-printed line. ! Work a row of Running Stitch along the screen-printed line. ! At the end of the line, turn the Headlight so it is facing back down the row of Running Stitch. ! At the end of the line, turn the Headlight so it is facing back down the row of Running Stitch. ! Split the thread of each stitch in the first row by punching through the fibers of each original stitch. ! Split the thread of each stitch in the first row by punching through the fibers of each original stitch. STITCH AND CUTS STITCH AND CUTS (Also referred to as Stitch & Clips) (Also referred to as Stitch & Clips) Terminology used for a single stitch. Stitch and Cuts are a required basic technique. Terminology used for a single stitch. Stitch and Cuts are a required basic technique. APPLICATION APPLICATION General knowledge with many applications: General knowledge with many applications: ! Fill in bald spots in flat stitching. 144 ! Fill in bald spots in flat stitching. 144 ! Soften a change of colour between 2 areas (Area of change) ! Soften a change of colour between 2 areas (Area of change) ! Accentuate blending. ! Accentuate blending. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Punch in and pull end to the back of the canvas. Take one stitch Cut and pull end to the back. ! - For Areas of Change it is important that the Stitch & Cuts are the same height as the surrounding flat stitching thread -they should not sit up too high. To do this, draw the needle along the canvas between the threads of Flat Stitch. - For Areas of Change it is important that the Stitch & Cuts are the same height as the surrounding flat stitching thread -they should not sit up too high. To do this, draw the needle along the canvas between the threads of Flat Stitch. - In other areas, such as waterfalls or hair blending, the Stitch & Cuts are more effective if they look like they are sitting on top of the base stitching. To do this, punch into the canvas; then lift the needle slightly above the canvas and place it over the stitched area. - In other areas, such as waterfalls or hair blending, the Stitch & Cuts are more effective if they look like they are sitting on top of the base stitching. To do this, punch into the canvas; then lift the needle slightly above the canvas and place it over the stitched area. ! ! ! ! ! Punch in and pull end to the back of the canvas. Take one stitch Cut and pull end to the back. STRETCH STITCH STRETCH STITCH Creates a raised frill with a loopy effect. The stretching action creates a slackness in the curt of the thread. Creates a raised frill with a loopy effect. The stretching action creates a slackness in the curt of the thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION Most commonly used for decorative edging such Most commonly used for decorative edging such 145 145 ! Soften a change of colour between 2 areas (Area of change) ! Soften a change of colour between 2 areas (Area of change) ! Accentuate blending. ! Accentuate blending. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE Punch in and pull end to the back of the canvas. Take one stitch Cut and pull end to the back. ! - For Areas of Change it is important that the Stitch & Cuts are the same height as the surrounding flat stitching thread -they should not sit up too high. To do this, draw the needle along the canvas between the threads of Flat Stitch. - For Areas of Change it is important that the Stitch & Cuts are the same height as the surrounding flat stitching thread -they should not sit up too high. To do this, draw the needle along the canvas between the threads of Flat Stitch. - In other areas, such as waterfalls or hair blending, the Stitch & Cuts are more effective if they look like they are sitting on top of the base stitching. To do this, punch into the canvas; then lift the needle slightly above the canvas and place it over the stitched area. - In other areas, such as waterfalls or hair blending, the Stitch & Cuts are more effective if they look like they are sitting on top of the base stitching. To do this, punch into the canvas; then lift the needle slightly above the canvas and place it over the stitched area. ! ! ! ! ! Punch in and pull end to the back of the canvas. Take one stitch Cut and pull end to the back. STRETCH STITCH STRETCH STITCH Creates a raised frill with a loopy effect. The stretching action creates a slackness in the curt of the thread. Creates a raised frill with a loopy effect. The stretching action creates a slackness in the curt of the thread. APPLICATION APPLICATION Most commonly used for decorative edging such Most commonly used for decorative edging such 145 145 as around the edges of orchid petals. as around the edges of orchid petals. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Punch into the canvas with 2/4 pull thread in a regular needle and pull the end to the back, holding it with the left hand. ! Punch into the canvas with 2/4 pull thread in a regular needle and pull the end to the back, holding it with the left hand. ! To stretch the thread, move the needle 1/2" away, in the direction you wish to cover but do not punch in. ! To stretch the thread, move the needle 1/2" away, in the direction you wish to cover but do not punch in. ! Move the needle back 1/4" and punch. ! Move the needle back 1/4" and punch. ! Press on the knob at the back of the canvas with the left hand and take another 1/2" stretch. ! Press on the knob at the back of the canvas with the left hand and take another 1/2" stretch. ! Move back 1/4" and punch. ! Move back 1/4" and punch. ! Repeat ! Repeat SYMBOLS SYMBOLS Solid Padding Symbol Solid Padding Symbol ! single lines indicate direction for padding. ! single lines indicate direction for padding. ! double line is direction for top stitching. ! double line is direction for top stitching. 146 146 as around the edges of orchid petals. as around the edges of orchid petals. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Punch into the canvas with 2/4 pull thread in a regular needle and pull the end to the back, holding it with the left hand. ! Punch into the canvas with 2/4 pull thread in a regular needle and pull the end to the back, holding it with the left hand. ! To stretch the thread, move the needle 1/2" away, in the direction you wish to cover but do not punch in. ! To stretch the thread, move the needle 1/2" away, in the direction you wish to cover but do not punch in. ! Move the needle back 1/4" and punch. ! Move the needle back 1/4" and punch. ! Press on the knob at the back of the canvas with the left hand and take another 1/2" stretch. ! Press on the knob at the back of the canvas with the left hand and take another 1/2" stretch. ! Move back 1/4" and punch. ! Move back 1/4" and punch. ! Repeat ! Repeat SYMBOLS SYMBOLS Solid Padding Symbol Solid Padding Symbol ! single lines indicate direction for padding. ! single lines indicate direction for padding. ! double line is direction for top stitching. ! double line is direction for top stitching. 146 146 Area of Change Symbol Area of Change Symbol Series of horizontal dash lines where a colour change is to occur. For full explanation see 'Blending'. Series of horizontal dash lines where a colour change is to occur. For full explanation see 'Blending'. Jagged lines Jagged lines Gives the stitcher 2 instructions: Gives the stitcher 2 instructions: a) Blend the two colours together b) Direction of stitching a) Blend the two colours together b) Direction of stitching Arrows Arrows a) Arrows are used to indicate stitch direction a) Arrows are used to indicate stitch direction b) When an arrow shown with a thread number is pointing directly to a line: b) When an arrow shown with a thread number is pointing directly to a line: 1) An outline in that colour is to be done around the area. 1) An outline in that colour is to be done around the area. 2) Use the specified thread colour to stitch just the line (such as a leaf vein) 2) Use the specified thread colour to stitch just the line (such as a leaf vein) 147 147 Area of Change Symbol Area of Change Symbol Series of horizontal dash lines where a colour change is to occur. For full explanation see 'Blending'. Series of horizontal dash lines where a colour change is to occur. For full explanation see 'Blending'. Jagged lines Jagged lines Gives the stitcher 2 instructions: Gives the stitcher 2 instructions: a) Blend the two colours together b) Direction of stitching a) Blend the two colours together b) Direction of stitching Arrows Arrows a) Arrows are used to indicate stitch direction a) Arrows are used to indicate stitch direction b) When an arrow shown with a thread number is pointing directly to a line: b) When an arrow shown with a thread number is pointing directly to a line: 1) An outline in that colour is to be done around the area. 1) An outline in that colour is to be done around the area. 2) Use the specified thread colour to stitch just the line (such as a leaf vein) 2) Use the specified thread colour to stitch just the line (such as a leaf vein) 147 147 Dotted Area Dotted Area Used to indicate area to be filled in with black thread. The jagged lines of the adjoining blended areas indicate the stitch direction. Used to indicate area to be filled in with black thread. The jagged lines of the adjoining blended areas indicate the stitch direction. Fraction Fraction ex. 21 89 Colour #21 stitched on top of Colour #89 (base stitching) ex. 21 89 Colour #21 stitched on top of Colour #89 (base stitching) THREAD - SPECIAL NOTES THREAD - SPECIAL NOTES (For basic Thread information refer to Introductory section -'About The Thread') (For basic Thread information refer to Introductory section -'About The Thread') 1. 1. To Polish 3/4 Pull To Polish 3/4 Pull Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 3/4 pull. Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 3/4 pull. Place the 3/4 thread in the palm of your hand and pinch the thread between the thumb and forefinger precisely at the pull back point of whole thread to 3/4 thread. Close the remaining fingers over the thread and squeeze. Slowly pull the thread through your fingers. The natural oils in your skin will straighten and shine the thread. Place the 3/4 thread in the palm of your hand and pinch the thread between the thumb and forefinger precisely at the pull back point of whole thread to 3/4 thread. Close the remaining fingers over the thread and squeeze. Slowly pull the thread through your fingers. The natural oils in your skin will straighten and shine the thread. Another method is to rub the thread over a smooth surface such as the edge of a table. If the edge being used is not smooth the thread will start to fray. Another method is to rub the thread over a smooth surface such as the edge of a table. If the edge being used is not smooth the thread will start to fray. 148 148 Dotted Area Dotted Area Used to indicate area to be filled in with black thread. The jagged lines of the adjoining blended areas indicate the stitch direction. Used to indicate area to be filled in with black thread. The jagged lines of the adjoining blended areas indicate the stitch direction. Fraction Fraction ex. 21 89 Colour #21 stitched on top of Colour #89 (base stitching) ex. 21 89 Colour #21 stitched on top of Colour #89 (base stitching) THREAD - SPECIAL NOTES THREAD - SPECIAL NOTES (For basic Thread information refer to Introductory section -'About The Thread') (For basic Thread information refer to Introductory section -'About The Thread') 1. 1. To Polish 3/4 Pull To Polish 3/4 Pull Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 3/4 pull. Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 3/4 pull. Place the 3/4 thread in the palm of your hand and pinch the thread between the thumb and forefinger precisely at the pull back point of whole thread to 3/4 thread. Close the remaining fingers over the thread and squeeze. Slowly pull the thread through your fingers. The natural oils in your skin will straighten and shine the thread. Place the 3/4 thread in the palm of your hand and pinch the thread between the thumb and forefinger precisely at the pull back point of whole thread to 3/4 thread. Close the remaining fingers over the thread and squeeze. Slowly pull the thread through your fingers. The natural oils in your skin will straighten and shine the thread. Another method is to rub the thread over a smooth surface such as the edge of a table. If the edge being used is not smooth the thread will start to fray. Another method is to rub the thread over a smooth surface such as the edge of a table. If the edge being used is not smooth the thread will start to fray. 148 148 2. 1/4 Pull 2. 1/4 Pull THREAD BLENDING THREAD BLENDING Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 1/4 pull. Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 1/4 pull. Thread 2 colours of 1/4 pull thread in one fluffy needle. Try experimenting with different combinations; dark + light will create a striped effect; two shades of the same colour will create a new pastel shade. Thread 2 colours of 1/4 pull thread in one fluffy needle. Try experimenting with different combinations; dark + light will create a striped effect; two shades of the same colour will create a new pastel shade. TIPS FOR STITCHING WITH 1/4 PULL TIPS FOR STITCHING WITH 1/4 PULL ! Work with about 12" at a time. Pulling excessive amounts of 1/4 pull can result in masses of tangled thread. ! Work with about 12" at a time. Pulling excessive amounts of 1/4 pull can result in masses of tangled thread. ! Always use the Fluffy (Long Shank) Needle this creates a larger loop or knob on the back of the canvas which helps to better secure the thread. ! Always use the Fluffy (Long Shank) Needle this creates a larger loop or knob on the back of the canvas which helps to better secure the thread. ! A small piece of elastic band slipped over the shank of a threaded needle is helpful since 1/4 pull slides out of the needle very easily. The small rubber stopper from a hypodermic needle can also be used for this purpose. ! A small piece of elastic band slipped over the shank of a threaded needle is helpful since 1/4 pull slides out of the needle very easily. The small rubber stopper from a hypodermic needle can also be used for this purpose. ! Because it is so delicate, 1/4 pull cannot be pulled out and reused -it will straighten out and/or fluff simply by threading, pulling, etc. ! Because it is so delicate, 1/4 pull cannot be pulled out and reused -it will straighten out and/or fluff simply by threading, pulling, etc. ! Before stitching, check the thread by pulling approx. 10 to 12 inches of 1/4 pull. If it pulls easily, chances are the whole skein will be problem-free; however, if it will not pull or ! Before stitching, check the thread by pulling approx. 10 to 12 inches of 1/4 pull. If it pulls easily, chances are the whole skein will be problem-free; however, if it will not pull or 149 2. 1/4 Pull 149 2. 1/4 Pull THREAD BLENDING THREAD BLENDING Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 1/4 pull. Refer to Introductory section for instructions on how to get a 1/4 pull. Thread 2 colours of 1/4 pull thread in one fluffy needle. Try experimenting with different combinations; dark + light will create a striped effect; two shades of the same colour will create a new pastel shade. Thread 2 colours of 1/4 pull thread in one fluffy needle. Try experimenting with different combinations; dark + light will create a striped effect; two shades of the same colour will create a new pastel shade. TIPS FOR STITCHING WITH 1/4 PULL TIPS FOR STITCHING WITH 1/4 PULL ! Work with about 12" at a time. Pulling excessive amounts of 1/4 pull can result in masses of tangled thread. ! Work with about 12" at a time. Pulling excessive amounts of 1/4 pull can result in masses of tangled thread. ! Always use the Fluffy (Long Shank) Needle this creates a larger loop or knob on the back of the canvas which helps to better secure the thread. ! Always use the Fluffy (Long Shank) Needle this creates a larger loop or knob on the back of the canvas which helps to better secure the thread. ! A small piece of elastic band slipped over the shank of a threaded needle is helpful since 1/4 pull slides out of the needle very easily. The small rubber stopper from a hypodermic needle can also be used for this purpose. ! A small piece of elastic band slipped over the shank of a threaded needle is helpful since 1/4 pull slides out of the needle very easily. The small rubber stopper from a hypodermic needle can also be used for this purpose. ! Because it is so delicate, 1/4 pull cannot be pulled out and reused -it will straighten out and/or fluff simply by threading, pulling, etc. ! Because it is so delicate, 1/4 pull cannot be pulled out and reused -it will straighten out and/or fluff simply by threading, pulling, etc. ! Before stitching, check the thread by pulling approx. 10 to 12 inches of 1/4 pull. If it pulls easily, chances are the whole skein will be problem-free; however, if it will not pull or ! Before stitching, check the thread by pulling approx. 10 to 12 inches of 1/4 pull. If it pulls easily, chances are the whole skein will be problem-free; however, if it will not pull or 149 149 continually catches change to another skein of thread (preferably a brand new one that has not been wrapped onto a card). To protect 1/4 pull areas, place a paper towel or kleenex over the stitching. ! 1/4 pull thread builds up very quickly on the back of the canvas which can cause the needle and/or the thread to catch and become tangled. To avoid this, trim down the back of the canvas with a sharp pair of scissors or bunka clippers. This should be done as often as possible. ! 3. Metallic Threads continually catches change to another skein of thread (preferably a brand new one that has not been wrapped onto a card). To protect 1/4 pull areas, place a paper towel or kleenex over the stitching. ! 1/4 pull thread builds up very quickly on the back of the canvas which can cause the needle and/or the thread to catch and become tangled. To avoid this, trim down the back of the canvas with a sharp pair of scissors or bunka clippers. This should be done as often as possible. ! 3. Metallic Threads Metallic thread adds a lovely sparkle to your stitching. The thread is woven and unravels exactly the same as regular lily yarn -1/4, 2/4, 3/4 pull. Metallic thread adds a lovely sparkle to your stitching. The thread is woven and unravels exactly the same as regular lily yarn -1/4, 2/4, 3/4 pull. There are two kinds of metallic thread: There are two kinds of metallic thread: 1 Bunka Metallic - is a 4-ply thread consisting of 3 threads of regular lily yarn and 1 thread of metallic. 1 Bunka Metallic - is a 4-ply thread consisting of 3 threads of regular lily yarn and 1 thread of metallic. 2 Pure Lame - 4 ply pure metallic thread -does not contain any lily yarn. 2/4 pure metallic is usually stitched over a base stitching of lily yarn; 3/4 pull is usually used alone. 2 Pure Lame - 4 ply pure metallic thread -does not contain any lily yarn. 2/4 pure metallic is usually stitched over a base stitching of lily yarn; 3/4 pull is usually used alone. TIPS TIPS When pulling the thread into the desired ply, do so carefully since metallic thread breaks very easily. ! 150 150 continually catches change to another skein of thread (preferably a brand new one that has not been wrapped onto a card). To protect 1/4 pull areas, place a paper towel or kleenex over the stitching. ! 1/4 pull thread builds up very quickly on the back of the canvas which can cause the needle and/or the thread to catch and become tangled. To avoid this, trim down the back of the canvas with a sharp pair of scissors or bunka clippers. This should be done as often as possible. ! 3. When pulling the thread into the desired ply, do so carefully since metallic thread breaks very easily. ! Metallic Threads continually catches change to another skein of thread (preferably a brand new one that has not been wrapped onto a card). To protect 1/4 pull areas, place a paper towel or kleenex over the stitching. ! 1/4 pull thread builds up very quickly on the back of the canvas which can cause the needle and/or the thread to catch and become tangled. To avoid this, trim down the back of the canvas with a sharp pair of scissors or bunka clippers. This should be done as often as possible. ! 3. Metallic Threads Metallic thread adds a lovely sparkle to your stitching. The thread is woven and unravels exactly the same as regular lily yarn -1/4, 2/4, 3/4 pull. Metallic thread adds a lovely sparkle to your stitching. The thread is woven and unravels exactly the same as regular lily yarn -1/4, 2/4, 3/4 pull. There are two kinds of metallic thread: There are two kinds of metallic thread: 1 Bunka Metallic - is a 4-ply thread consisting of 3 threads of regular lily yarn and 1 thread of metallic. 1 Bunka Metallic - is a 4-ply thread consisting of 3 threads of regular lily yarn and 1 thread of metallic. 2 Pure Lame - 4 ply pure metallic thread -does not contain any lily yarn. 2/4 pure metallic is usually stitched over a base stitching of lily yarn; 3/4 pull is usually used alone. 2 Pure Lame - 4 ply pure metallic thread -does not contain any lily yarn. 2/4 pure metallic is usually stitched over a base stitching of lily yarn; 3/4 pull is usually used alone. TIPS TIPS ! 150 When pulling the thread into the desired ply, do so carefully since metallic thread breaks very easily. ! 150 When pulling the thread into the desired ply, do so carefully since metallic thread breaks very easily. ! Take special notice when pulling Bunka Metallic thread into a 2/4 pull since it is sometimes difficult to differentiate between 2/4 and 3/4. ! Take special notice when pulling Bunka Metallic thread into a 2/4 pull since it is sometimes difficult to differentiate between 2/4 and 3/4. ! Advisable to use a piece of elastic over the shank of the needle to help hold in the thread. ! Advisable to use a piece of elastic over the shank of the needle to help hold in the thread. 4. Threading The Needle With Whole Thread 4. Threading The Needle With Whole Thread ! Have the first 2" of the thread pulled into a 2/4 pull. ! Have the first 2" of the thread pulled into a 2/4 pull. ! Guide the thread out through the headlight, through the large slit in body of the needle and out again at the top of the shank -do not slide the thread inside the shank at this point. ! Guide the thread out through the headlight, through the large slit in body of the needle and out again at the top of the shank -do not slide the thread inside the shank at this point. ! Have the thread aimed at a 90 degree angle to the eye of the needle. ! Have the thread aimed at a 90 degree angle to the eye of the needle. ! Thread the 2" of the 2/4 pull through the eye of the needle. ! Thread the 2" of the 2/4 pull through the eye of the needle. ! Ease the whole thread through by pinching the thread and needle between the thumb and forefinger. ! Ease the whole thread through by pinching the thread and needle between the thumb and forefinger. ! Slide the whole thread inside the shank. ! Slide the whole thread inside the shank. 151 4. 151 ! Take special notice when pulling Bunka Metallic thread into a 2/4 pull since it is sometimes difficult to differentiate between 2/4 and 3/4. ! Take special notice when pulling Bunka Metallic thread into a 2/4 pull since it is sometimes difficult to differentiate between 2/4 and 3/4. ! Advisable to use a piece of elastic over the shank of the needle to help hold in the thread. ! Advisable to use a piece of elastic over the shank of the needle to help hold in the thread. Threading The Needle With Whole Thread 4. Threading The Needle With Whole Thread ! Have the first 2" of the thread pulled into a 2/4 pull. ! Have the first 2" of the thread pulled into a 2/4 pull. ! Guide the thread out through the headlight, through the large slit in body of the needle and out again at the top of the shank -do not slide the thread inside the shank at this point. ! Guide the thread out through the headlight, through the large slit in body of the needle and out again at the top of the shank -do not slide the thread inside the shank at this point. ! Have the thread aimed at a 90 degree angle to the eye of the needle. ! Have the thread aimed at a 90 degree angle to the eye of the needle. ! Thread the 2" of the 2/4 pull through the eye of the needle. ! Thread the 2" of the 2/4 pull through the eye of the needle. ! Ease the whole thread through by pinching the thread and needle between the thumb and forefinger. ! Ease the whole thread through by pinching the thread and needle between the thumb and forefinger. ! Slide the whole thread inside the shank. ! Slide the whole thread inside the shank. 151 151 TIGER, BODY TIGER, BODY When stitching the body of any animal/bird, the stitch direction should flow with the natural direction of the body fur/feathers. Therefore, stitch direction and order of stitchery is extremely important to achieve a realistic effect. The order of stitchery is very important and can vary from picture to picture, depending on the position of the animal - keep in mind the basic concept of working from the background to the foreground. When stitching the body of any animal/bird, the stitch direction should flow with the natural direction of the body fur/feathers. Therefore, stitch direction and order of stitchery is extremely important to achieve a realistic effect. The order of stitchery is very important and can vary from picture to picture, depending on the position of the animal - keep in mind the basic concept of working from the background to the foreground. ! Stripes ! All the black stripes on a tiger's body are stitched first following the direction of the jagged lines of the adjoining blending areas. Rather than using numbers, each stripe that is filled with little dots should be stitched in black. ! Fur Stripes All the black stripes on a tiger's body are stitched first following the direction of the jagged lines of the adjoining blending areas. Rather than using numbers, each stripe that is filled with little dots should be stitched in black. ! Fur Regular Flat Stitching and Blending of the body colours. The stitching around the black stripe should work even up against the stripe, i.e. do not blend. Regular Flat Stitching and Blending of the body colours. The stitching around the black stripe should work even up against the stripe, i.e. do not blend. DO NOT DO ANY STITCHING AT THIS POINT AROUND THE EYE IF THE KIT CALLS FOR A GOLD RIBBON EYE. DO NOT DO ANY STITCHING AT THIS POINT AROUND THE EYE IF THE KIT CALLS FOR A GOLD RIBBON EYE. Certain padding techniques should be used to accentuate specific areas of the body: Certain padding techniques should be used to accentuate specific areas of the body: 152 152 TIGER, BODY TIGER, BODY When stitching the body of any animal/bird, the stitch direction should flow with the natural direction of the body fur/feathers. Therefore, stitch direction and order of stitchery is extremely important to achieve a realistic effect. The order of stitchery is very important and can vary from picture to picture, depending on the position of the animal - keep in mind the basic concept of working from the background to the foreground. When stitching the body of any animal/bird, the stitch direction should flow with the natural direction of the body fur/feathers. Therefore, stitch direction and order of stitchery is extremely important to achieve a realistic effect. The order of stitchery is very important and can vary from picture to picture, depending on the position of the animal - keep in mind the basic concept of working from the background to the foreground. ! Stripes ! All the black stripes on a tiger's body are stitched first following the direction of the jagged lines of the adjoining blending areas. Rather than using numbers, each stripe that is filled with little dots should be stitched in black. ! Fur Stripes All the black stripes on a tiger's body are stitched first following the direction of the jagged lines of the adjoining blending areas. Rather than using numbers, each stripe that is filled with little dots should be stitched in black. ! Fur Regular Flat Stitching and Blending of the body colours. The stitching around the black stripe should work even up against the stripe, i.e. do not blend. Regular Flat Stitching and Blending of the body colours. The stitching around the black stripe should work even up against the stripe, i.e. do not blend. DO NOT DO ANY STITCHING AT THIS POINT AROUND THE EYE IF THE KIT CALLS FOR A GOLD RIBBON EYE. DO NOT DO ANY STITCHING AT THIS POINT AROUND THE EYE IF THE KIT CALLS FOR A GOLD RIBBON EYE. Certain padding techniques should be used to accentuate specific areas of the body: Certain padding techniques should be used to accentuate specific areas of the body: 152 152 ! Around the nail of each toe. ! Around the nail of each toe. ! The nose and the snout area just behind the nose. ! The nose and the snout area just behind the nose. ! Line padding wherever possible -around the outer edge of the ears, side of the face, etc. ! Line padding wherever possible -around the outer edge of the ears, side of the face, etc. TIGER, CLAWS AND TEETH TIGER, CLAWS AND TEETH The claws and teeth should look smooth and shiny with a very sharp tip. 3/4 polished thread is worked over a layer of solid padding. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished). The claws and teeth should look smooth and shiny with a very sharp tip. 3/4 polished thread is worked over a layer of solid padding. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished). 153 153 ! Around the nail of each toe. ! Around the nail of each toe. ! The nose and the snout area just behind the nose. ! The nose and the snout area just behind the nose. ! Line padding wherever possible -around the outer edge of the ears, side of the face, etc. ! Line padding wherever possible -around the outer edge of the ears, side of the face, etc. TIGER, CLAWS AND TEETH TIGER, CLAWS AND TEETH The claws and teeth should look smooth and shiny with a very sharp tip. 3/4 polished thread is worked over a layer of solid padding. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished). The claws and teeth should look smooth and shiny with a very sharp tip. 3/4 polished thread is worked over a layer of solid padding. (See Thread, 3/4 Polished). 153 153 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Pad the area with 2/4 pull thread in a direction opposite to the top layer. Do not pad down into the point of the nail, taper it off just short of this area. ! Pad the area with 2/4 pull thread in a direction opposite to the top layer. Do not pad down into the point of the nail, taper it off just short of this area. ! Using the 3/4 Polished Thread, overstitch the padding in the direction indicated on the insert. Make the tip nice & sharp by extending the last stitch slightly beyond the design area. ! Using the 3/4 Polished Thread, overstitch the padding in the direction indicated on the insert. Make the tip nice & sharp by extending the last stitch slightly beyond the design area. TIGER, EYES TIGER, EYES See Eye, Gold Ribbon or Eye, Stitched See Eye, Gold Ribbon or Eye, Stitched TIGER, STITCH ORDER TIGER, STITCH ORDER 1. Gold Ribbon Eye (if required) 1. Gold Ribbon Eye (if required) 2. Black stripes 2. Black stripes 3. Body - stitch order of tail, legs, head, ears and torso depends on the body pose of the tiger. Use Line Padding wherever possible to add dimension. 3. Body - stitch order of tail, legs, head, ears and torso depends on the body pose of the tiger. Use Line Padding wherever possible to add dimension. 154 TECHNIQUE 154 TECHNIQUE ! Pad the area with 2/4 pull thread in a direction opposite to the top layer. Do not pad down into the point of the nail, taper it off just short of this area. ! Pad the area with 2/4 pull thread in a direction opposite to the top layer. Do not pad down into the point of the nail, taper it off just short of this area. ! Using the 3/4 Polished Thread, overstitch the padding in the direction indicated on the insert. Make the tip nice & sharp by extending the last stitch slightly beyond the design area. ! Using the 3/4 Polished Thread, overstitch the padding in the direction indicated on the insert. Make the tip nice & sharp by extending the last stitch slightly beyond the design area. TIGER, EYES TIGER, EYES See Eye, Gold Ribbon or Eye, Stitched See Eye, Gold Ribbon or Eye, Stitched TIGER, STITCH ORDER TIGER, STITCH ORDER 1. Gold Ribbon Eye (if required) 1. Gold Ribbon Eye (if required) 2. Black stripes 2. Black stripes 3. Body - stitch order of tail, legs, head, ears and torso depends on the body pose of the tiger. Use Line Padding wherever possible to add dimension. 3. Body - stitch order of tail, legs, head, ears and torso depends on the body pose of the tiger. Use Line Padding wherever possible to add dimension. 154 154 4. Claws - body of the paw completed first. 4. Claws - body of the paw completed first. 5. Teeth - inside the mouth area must be completed first; top lip done after the teeth are stitched. 5. Teeth - inside the mouth area must be completed first; top lip done after the teeth are stitched. 6. Whiskers. 6. Whiskers. TIGER, WHISKERS TIGER, WHISKERS Whiskers are the last area of a tiger to be completed. The angle, size and number of the whiskers are important to the tiger. Whiskers are the last area of a tiger to be completed. The angle, size and number of the whiskers are important to the tiger. There are 3 methods, which can be used; most older tiger kits require the use of Method 1. There are 3 methods, which can be used; most older tiger kits require the use of Method 1. METHOD 1 - FOUR LAYERS METHOD 1 - FOUR LAYERS a) The first layer is the base stitching of the face area with white, black and body colours, usually tan or gold. a) The first layer is the base stitching of the face area with white, black and body colours, usually tan or gold. b) The second layer is a row of long and short open Zig Zag Stitches using 2/4 Pull thread. b) The second layer is a row of long and short open Zig Zag Stitches using 2/4 Pull thread. The total number of white stripes on the face indicate the number of rows of whiskers to be completed - one row of whiskers will extend out from each white stripe; The total number of white stripes on the face indicate the number of rows of whiskers to be completed - one row of whiskers will extend out from each white stripe; 2 white stripes = 2 rows of whiskers 3 white stripes = 3 rows of whiskers 2 white stripes = 2 rows of whiskers 3 white stripes = 3 rows of whiskers 155 155 4. Claws - body of the paw completed first. 4. Claws - body of the paw completed first. 5. Teeth - inside the mouth area must be completed first; top lip done after the teeth are stitched. 5. Teeth - inside the mouth area must be completed first; top lip done after the teeth are stitched. 6. Whiskers. 6. Whiskers. TIGER, WHISKERS TIGER, WHISKERS Whiskers are the last area of a tiger to be completed. The angle, size and number of the whiskers are important to the tiger. Whiskers are the last area of a tiger to be completed. The angle, size and number of the whiskers are important to the tiger. There are 3 methods, which can be used; most older tiger kits require the use of Method 1. There are 3 methods, which can be used; most older tiger kits require the use of Method 1. METHOD 1 - FOUR LAYERS METHOD 1 - FOUR LAYERS a) The first layer is the base stitching of the face area with white, black and body colours, usually tan or gold. a) The first layer is the base stitching of the face area with white, black and body colours, usually tan or gold. b) The second layer is a row of long and short open Zig Zag Stitches using 2/4 Pull thread. b) The second layer is a row of long and short open Zig Zag Stitches using 2/4 Pull thread. The total number of white stripes on the face indicate the number of rows of whiskers to be completed - one row of whiskers will extend out from each white stripe; The total number of white stripes on the face indicate the number of rows of whiskers to be completed - one row of whiskers will extend out from each white stripe; 2 white stripes = 2 rows of whiskers 3 white stripes = 3 rows of whiskers 2 white stripes = 2 rows of whiskers 3 white stripes = 3 rows of whiskers 155 155 Start with the white stripe closest to the neck & shoulder area. Stitch one continuous row of long and short Zig Zag stitches radiating out from the white stripe (refer to the insert for length & placement). Start with the white stripe closest to the neck & shoulder area. Stitch one continuous row of long and short Zig Zag stitches radiating out from the white stripe (refer to the insert for length & placement). Repeat the above on the next white stripe. This thread should occasionally overlap the previous row. Repeat the above on the next white stripe. This thread should occasionally overlap the previous row. c) The third layer uses the special, shiny whisker thread provided with the kit and a tapestry (sewing) needle. Repeat the long and short pattern created in Step 2 for each row of whiskers - place the whisker thread in between and extended further out than the bunka thread layer. c) The third layer uses the special, shiny whisker thread provided with the kit and a tapestry (sewing) needle. Repeat the long and short pattern created in Step 2 for each row of whiskers - place the whisker thread in between and extended further out than the bunka thread layer. d) The fourth and final layer for Method 1 is the Long Cat Whiskers. These whiskers are very distinctive; thicker and very bold looking. Each whisker consists of 2 long threads which are wrapped with a third thread. d) The fourth and final layer for Method 1 is the Long Cat Whiskers. These whiskers are very distinctive; thicker and very bold looking. Each whisker consists of 2 long threads which are wrapped with a third thread. 156 156 Start with the white stripe closest to the neck & shoulder area. Stitch one continuous row of long and short Zig Zag stitches radiating out from the white stripe (refer to the insert for length & placement). Start with the white stripe closest to the neck & shoulder area. Stitch one continuous row of long and short Zig Zag stitches radiating out from the white stripe (refer to the insert for length & placement). Repeat the above on the next white stripe. This thread should occasionally overlap the previous row. Repeat the above on the next white stripe. This thread should occasionally overlap the previous row. c) The third layer uses the special, shiny whisker thread provided with the kit and a tapestry (sewing) needle. Repeat the long and short pattern created in Step 2 for each row of whiskers - place the whisker thread in between and extended further out than the bunka thread layer. c) The third layer uses the special, shiny whisker thread provided with the kit and a tapestry (sewing) needle. Repeat the long and short pattern created in Step 2 for each row of whiskers - place the whisker thread in between and extended further out than the bunka thread layer. d) The fourth and final layer for Method 1 is the Long Cat Whiskers. These whiskers are very distinctive; thicker and very bold looking. Each whisker consists of 2 long threads which are wrapped with a third thread. d) The fourth and final layer for Method 1 is the Long Cat Whiskers. These whiskers are very distinctive; thicker and very bold looking. Each whisker consists of 2 long threads which are wrapped with a third thread. 156 156 - thread a regular sewing needle with a single thickness of the shiny whisker thread provided in the kit. Tie a knot in the end. - thread a regular sewing needle with a single thickness of the shiny whisker thread provided in the kit. Tie a knot in the end. - Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas to the spot on the tiger's muzzle from where the whisker will extend. Sometimes these large whiskers will originate from small dark brown or black spots on the muzzle. - Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas to the spot on the tiger's muzzle from where the whisker will extend. Sometimes these large whiskers will originate from small dark brown or black spots on the muzzle. - Take a 2 -3" stitch out over the face and take the needle to the back of the canvas. This will be the longest thread and forms the tip of the whisker. Refer to the insert for exact positioning. - Take a 2 -3" stitch out over the face and take the needle to the back of the canvas. This will be the longest thread and forms the tip of the whisker. Refer to the insert for exact positioning. - Bring the needle up 1/2" below the tip. - Bring the needle up 1/2" below the tip. - Take the thread back down to the starting spot. - Take the thread back down to the starting spot. 157 157 - thread a regular sewing needle with a single thickness of the shiny whisker thread provided in the kit. Tie a knot in the end. - thread a regular sewing needle with a single thickness of the shiny whisker thread provided in the kit. Tie a knot in the end. - Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas to the spot on the tiger's muzzle from where the whisker will extend. Sometimes these large whiskers will originate from small dark brown or black spots on the muzzle. - Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas to the spot on the tiger's muzzle from where the whisker will extend. Sometimes these large whiskers will originate from small dark brown or black spots on the muzzle. - Take a 2 -3" stitch out over the face and take the needle to the back of the canvas. This will be the longest thread and forms the tip of the whisker. Refer to the insert for exact positioning. - Take a 2 -3" stitch out over the face and take the needle to the back of the canvas. This will be the longest thread and forms the tip of the whisker. Refer to the insert for exact positioning. - Bring the needle up 1/2" below the tip. - Bring the needle up 1/2" below the tip. - Take the thread back down to the starting spot. - Take the thread back down to the starting spot. 157 157 - Bring the needle back up to the starting point. Wrap the first two strings by sliding the needle under and over the threads approx. 3-5 times, depending on the length of the whisker. - Bring the needle back up to the starting point. Wrap the first two strings by sliding the needle under and over the threads approx. 3-5 times, depending on the length of the whisker. - Insert the needle back through the canvas 1/2" below the tip of the second string. - Insert the needle back through the canvas 1/2" below the tip of the second string. - Pull wrapping thread tight. - Pull wrapping thread tight. METHOD TWO - USING PINE NEEDLE STITCH TECHNIQUE METHOD TWO - USING PINE NEEDLE STITCH TECHNIQUE Using 2/4 pull thread, place rows of long and short Pine Needle Stitches on the neck section of the tiger working towards the nose area. Using 2/4 pull thread, place rows of long and short Pine Needle Stitches on the neck section of the tiger working towards the nose area. Refer to the coloured insert for placement. The number of white stripes indicates the required number of rows of Pine Needle Stitches. Refer to the coloured insert for placement. The number of white stripes indicates the required number of rows of Pine Needle Stitches. 158 158 - Bring the needle back up to the starting point. Wrap the first two strings by sliding the needle under and over the threads approx. 3-5 times, depending on the length of the whisker. - Bring the needle back up to the starting point. Wrap the first two strings by sliding the needle under and over the threads approx. 3-5 times, depending on the length of the whisker. - Insert the needle back through the canvas 1/2" below the tip of the second string. - Insert the needle back through the canvas 1/2" below the tip of the second string. - Pull wrapping thread tight. - Pull wrapping thread tight. METHOD TWO - USING PINE NEEDLE STITCH TECHNIQUE METHOD TWO - USING PINE NEEDLE STITCH TECHNIQUE Using 2/4 pull thread, place rows of long and short Pine Needle Stitches on the neck section of the tiger working towards the nose area. Using 2/4 pull thread, place rows of long and short Pine Needle Stitches on the neck section of the tiger working towards the nose area. Refer to the coloured insert for placement. The number of white stripes indicates the required number of rows of Pine Needle Stitches. Refer to the coloured insert for placement. The number of white stripes indicates the required number of rows of Pine Needle Stitches. 158 158 MÉTHOD THREE - USING 3/4 PULL THREAD MÉTHOD THREE - USING 3/4 PULL THREAD Refer to Thread 3/4 Polished for preparing the thread. Refer to Thread 3/4 Polished for preparing the thread. ! Polish and straighten about 1 yard of thread. Place a dab of rice glue between your thumb and index finger. Run the 3/4 polished thread through your fingers, applying a thin layer of glue. ! Polish and straighten about 1 yard of thread. Place a dab of rice glue between your thumb and index finger. Run the 3/4 polished thread through your fingers, applying a thin layer of glue. ! Set aside to dry. Thread should be straight and rigid. ! Set aside to dry. Thread should be straight and rigid. ! Thread into a regular sewing needle, with a knot in the end. ! Thread into a regular sewing needle, with a knot in the end. ! Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas. Cut approx. 4ft of thread - leave this end hanging loose for the time being. ! Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas. Cut approx. 4ft of thread - leave this end hanging loose for the time being. Knot the end of the thread in the sewing needle and repeat until the required number of threads have been attached. Knot the end of the thread in the sewing needle and repeat until the required number of threads have been attached. 159 159 MÉTHOD THREE - USING 3/4 PULL THREAD MÉTHOD THREE - USING 3/4 PULL THREAD Refer to Thread 3/4 Polished for preparing the thread. Refer to Thread 3/4 Polished for preparing the thread. ! Polish and straighten about 1 yard of thread. Place a dab of rice glue between your thumb and index finger. Run the 3/4 polished thread through your fingers, applying a thin layer of glue. ! Polish and straighten about 1 yard of thread. Place a dab of rice glue between your thumb and index finger. Run the 3/4 polished thread through your fingers, applying a thin layer of glue. ! Set aside to dry. Thread should be straight and rigid. ! Set aside to dry. Thread should be straight and rigid. ! Thread into a regular sewing needle, with a knot in the end. ! Thread into a regular sewing needle, with a knot in the end. ! Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas. Cut approx. 4ft of thread - leave this end hanging loose for the time being. ! Bring the needle up from the back of the canvas. Cut approx. 4ft of thread - leave this end hanging loose for the time being. Knot the end of the thread in the sewing needle and repeat until the required number of threads have been attached. Knot the end of the thread in the sewing needle and repeat until the required number of threads have been attached. 159 159 ! Place a small dab of glue 1/2" to 1" below the point where each thread is to be positioned. ! Place a small dab of glue 1/2" to 1" below the point where each thread is to be positioned. ! Press the 3/4 polished thread down onto the glue. ! Press the 3/4 polished thread down onto the glue. Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement and length of each whisker. Glue Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement and length of each whisker. Glue Whiskers should not lay flat and dead straight on the face - strive for realistic and natural appearance. Whiskers should not lay flat and dead straight on the face - strive for realistic and natural appearance. TREES, BAMBOO TREES, BAMBOO Bamboo stalks are evident in many Bunka Shishu pictures. They represent strength and are very effective in presenting an oriental mood to the picture. A Bamboo Stalk is divided into boneshaped sections which are thicker at the top and bottom, thinner in the middle. The area between each section is referred to as a 'joint'. Bamboo stalks are evident in many Bunka Shishu pictures. They represent strength and are very effective in presenting an oriental mood to the picture. A Bamboo Stalk is divided into boneshaped sections which are thicker at the top and bottom, thinner in the middle. The area between each section is referred to as a 'joint'. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch each joint area first using a Satin Stitch on an angle. ! 160 Stitch each joint area first using a Satin Stitch on an angle. 160 ! Place a small dab of glue 1/2" to 1" below the point where each thread is to be positioned. ! Place a small dab of glue 1/2" to 1" below the point where each thread is to be positioned. ! Press the 3/4 polished thread down onto the glue. ! Press the 3/4 polished thread down onto the glue. Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement and length of each whisker. Glue Refer to the coloured insert for exact placement and length of each whisker. Glue Whiskers should not lay flat and dead straight on the face - strive for realistic and natural appearance. Whiskers should not lay flat and dead straight on the face - strive for realistic and natural appearance. TREES, BAMBOO TREES, BAMBOO Bamboo stalks are evident in many Bunka Shishu pictures. They represent strength and are very effective in presenting an oriental mood to the picture. A Bamboo Stalk is divided into boneshaped sections which are thicker at the top and bottom, thinner in the middle. The area between each section is referred to as a 'joint'. Bamboo stalks are evident in many Bunka Shishu pictures. They represent strength and are very effective in presenting an oriental mood to the picture. A Bamboo Stalk is divided into boneshaped sections which are thicker at the top and bottom, thinner in the middle. The area between each section is referred to as a 'joint'. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Stitch each joint area first using a Satin Stitch on an angle. 160 ! Stitch each joint area first using a Satin Stitch on an angle. 160 ! ! Both ends are built up for emphasis using Tapered Padding. ! Both ends are built up for emphasis using Tapered Padding. - Stitch horizontally across the end with 3-4 rows of solid stitching. (the numbers of rows will vary according to the size of the bamboo stalk, i.e. use 5-6 rows for larger stalks). - Stitch horizontally across the end with 3-4 rows of solid stitching. (the numbers of rows will vary according to the size of the bamboo stalk, i.e. use 5-6 rows for larger stalks). - Start shortening the rows, centering the stitching across the center area. - Start shortening the rows, centering the stitching across the center area. - Gradually taper down to 1 thread width. It is important to taper off the padding, to avoid a sudden drop-off when doing the top stitching. Pad the top and bottom area of each section. - Gradually taper down to 1 thread width. It is important to taper off the padding, to avoid a sudden drop-off when doing the top stitching. Pad the top and bottom area of each section. Bamboo stalks are usually divided into a minimum of three blending areas. It is important that the section be stitched in order; top, middle, bottom (1-2-3) even though the first and third sections may be the same colour. It is very difficult to complete the middle area with good, even blending if the top and bottom areas have been already stitched. ! Bamboo stalks are usually divided into a minimum of three blending areas. It is important that the section be stitched in order; top, middle, bottom (1-2-3) even though the first and third sections may be the same colour. It is very difficult to complete the middle area with good, even blending if the top and bottom areas have been already stitched. 161 ! ! Both ends are built up for emphasis using Tapered Padding. 161 ! Both ends are built up for emphasis using Tapered Padding. - Stitch horizontally across the end with 3-4 rows of solid stitching. (the numbers of rows will vary according to the size of the bamboo stalk, i.e. use 5-6 rows for larger stalks). - Stitch horizontally across the end with 3-4 rows of solid stitching. (the numbers of rows will vary according to the size of the bamboo stalk, i.e. use 5-6 rows for larger stalks). - Start shortening the rows, centering the stitching across the center area. - Start shortening the rows, centering the stitching across the center area. - Gradually taper down to 1 thread width. It is important to taper off the padding, to avoid a sudden drop-off when doing the top stitching. Pad the top and bottom area of each section. - Gradually taper down to 1 thread width. It is important to taper off the padding, to avoid a sudden drop-off when doing the top stitching. Pad the top and bottom area of each section. Bamboo stalks are usually divided into a minimum of three blending areas. It is important that the section be stitched in order; top, middle, bottom (1-2-3) even though the first and third sections may be the same colour. It is very difficult to complete the middle area with good, even blending if the top and bottom areas have been already stitched. ! 161 Bamboo stalks are usually divided into a minimum of three blending areas. It is important that the section be stitched in order; top, middle, bottom (1-2-3) even though the first and third sections may be the same colour. It is very difficult to complete the middle area with good, even blending if the top and bottom areas have been already stitched. 161 Always try to avoid working between two stitched areas. Always try to avoid working between two stitched areas. ! Keep the stitches adjoining the joint area smooth and even. ! Keep the stitches adjoining the joint area smooth and even. ! To make the Stalk look more natural, place Stitch & Cuts of adjoining colours into each other (neighbour into neighbour). ! To make the Stalk look more natural, place Stitch & Cuts of adjoining colours into each other (neighbour into neighbour). TREES, BIRCH TREES, BIRCH The birch is a very popular tree evident in many pictures since its characteristic white bark adds to the natural beauty of a scene. These trees are usually in the foreground and are one of the larger types of trees in a picture, therefore, care must be taken that the edges are stitched smooth and even -avoid serrated edges. Leaves are placed in and around the branches using the Claw Stitch, Cluster technique. The birch is a very popular tree evident in many pictures since its characteristic white bark adds to the natural beauty of a scene. These trees are usually in the foreground and are one of the larger types of trees in a picture, therefore, care must be taken that the edges are stitched smooth and even -avoid serrated edges. Leaves are placed in and around the branches using the Claw Stitch, Cluster technique. APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! All the stitching behind the tree must be completed first. ! All the stitching behind the tree must be completed first. ! Stitch 2 rows of Line Padding side-by-side up and down each side of the trunk. ! Stitch 2 rows of Line Padding side-by-side up and down each side of the trunk. 162 162 Always try to avoid working between two stitched areas. Always try to avoid working between two stitched areas. ! Keep the stitches adjoining the joint area smooth and even. ! Keep the stitches adjoining the joint area smooth and even. ! To make the Stalk look more natural, place Stitch & Cuts of adjoining colours into each other (neighbour into neighbour). ! To make the Stalk look more natural, place Stitch & Cuts of adjoining colours into each other (neighbour into neighbour). TREES, BIRCH TREES, BIRCH The birch is a very popular tree evident in many pictures since its characteristic white bark adds to the natural beauty of a scene. These trees are usually in the foreground and are one of the larger types of trees in a picture, therefore, care must be taken that the edges are stitched smooth and even -avoid serrated edges. Leaves are placed in and around the branches using the Claw Stitch, Cluster technique. The birch is a very popular tree evident in many pictures since its characteristic white bark adds to the natural beauty of a scene. These trees are usually in the foreground and are one of the larger types of trees in a picture, therefore, care must be taken that the edges are stitched smooth and even -avoid serrated edges. Leaves are placed in and around the branches using the Claw Stitch, Cluster technique. APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! All the stitching behind the tree must be completed first. ! All the stitching behind the tree must be completed first. ! Stitch 2 rows of Line Padding side-by-side up and down each side of the trunk. ! Stitch 2 rows of Line Padding side-by-side up and down each side of the trunk. 162 162 ! ! The top stitch direction for the body of the tree runs horizontally (side to side). ! The top stitch direction for the body of the tree runs horizontally (side to side). Fill in the small patches of colour first, working even and smooth over the Line Padding. Fill in the small patches of colour first, working even and smooth over the Line Padding. Stitch the main bark areas (usually) white, blending into the patches. Stitch the main bark areas (usually) white, blending into the patches. When the trunk is completely stitched, another soft layer of thread can be added to the light area (see Overlay Stitch). This, will build-up the tree and give it a more rounded look. ! When the trunk is completely stitched, another soft layer of thread can be added to the light area (see Overlay Stitch). This, will build-up the tree and give it a more rounded look. NOTE : Note: Distant birch trees could be stitched vertically. Refer to coloured insert for direction. Refer to Leaves, Clusters and Claw Stitch for completing the leaves. NOTE : Note: Distant birch trees could be stitched vertically. Refer to coloured insert for direction. Refer to Leaves, Clusters and Claw Stitch for completing the leaves. TREES, EVERGREEN, DISTANT TREES, EVERGREEN, DISTANT Three Methods: Three Methods: 1. Method 1 - Used to indicate the tree line or the horizon. This area is always stitched straight up and down; smooth and even along the bottom edge and using long and short stitches along the top edge. 1. Method 1 - Used to indicate the tree line or the horizon. This area is always stitched straight up and down; smooth and even along the bottom edge and using long and short stitches along the top edge. 163 ! ! The top stitch direction for the body of the tree runs horizontally (side to side). 163 ! The top stitch direction for the body of the tree runs horizontally (side to side). Fill in the small patches of colour first, working even and smooth over the Line Padding. Fill in the small patches of colour first, working even and smooth over the Line Padding. Stitch the main bark areas (usually) white, blending into the patches. Stitch the main bark areas (usually) white, blending into the patches. When the trunk is completely stitched, another soft layer of thread can be added to the light area (see Overlay Stitch). This, will build-up the tree and give it a more rounded look. ! When the trunk is completely stitched, another soft layer of thread can be added to the light area (see Overlay Stitch). This, will build-up the tree and give it a more rounded look. NOTE : Note: Distant birch trees could be stitched vertically. Refer to coloured insert for direction. Refer to Leaves, Clusters and Claw Stitch for completing the leaves. NOTE : Note: Distant birch trees could be stitched vertically. Refer to coloured insert for direction. Refer to Leaves, Clusters and Claw Stitch for completing the leaves. TREES, EVERGREEN, DISTANT TREES, EVERGREEN, DISTANT Three Methods: Three Methods: 1. Method 1 - Used to indicate the tree line or the horizon. This area is always stitched straight up and down; smooth and even along the bottom edge and using long and short stitches along the top edge. 1. Method 1 - Used to indicate the tree line or the horizon. This area is always stitched straight up and down; smooth and even along the bottom edge and using long and short stitches along the top edge. 163 163 ! A row of Line Padding could be placed along the line first to help maintain a smooth, even bottom edge. ! Line Padding A row of Line Padding could be placed along the line first to help maintain a smooth, even bottom edge. Line Padding ! Work rows of stitching up and down across the line. It is important to stitch over any background flat stitching behind the tree line so that there are no spaces. ! Work rows of stitching up and down across the line. It is important to stitch over any background flat stitching behind the tree line so that there are no spaces. ! Work up to the top edge with long and short stitches, extending the odd stitch much higher and then cutting the thread. ! Work up to the top edge with long and short stitches, extending the odd stitch much higher and then cutting the thread. 2. Method 2 - These trees, in the background of many scenes, have a misty or hazy appearance. The stitches should extend over the background flat stitching using long and short stitches to develop the form of an evergreen. ! Start at the top of the area with a small, horizontal stitch. Punch on top of the background flat stitching a little so that the tree appears to be 'in front' of the sky and not sunk into it. 2. Method 2 - These trees, in the background of many scenes, have a misty or hazy appearance. The stitches should extend over the background flat stitching using long and short stitches to develop the form of an evergreen. ! 164 ! A row of Line Padding could be placed along the line first to help maintain a smooth, even bottom edge. Start at the top of the area with a small, horizontal stitch. Punch on top of the background flat stitching a little so that the tree appears to be 'in front' of the sky and not sunk into it. 164 ! Line Padding A row of Line Padding could be placed along the line first to help maintain a smooth, even bottom edge. Line Padding ! Work rows of stitching up and down across the line. It is important to stitch over any background flat stitching behind the tree line so that there are no spaces. ! Work rows of stitching up and down across the line. It is important to stitch over any background flat stitching behind the tree line so that there are no spaces. ! Work up to the top edge with long and short stitches, extending the odd stitch much higher and then cutting the thread. ! Work up to the top edge with long and short stitches, extending the odd stitch much higher and then cutting the thread. 2. Method 2 - These trees, in the background of many scenes, have a misty or hazy appearance. The stitches should extend over the background flat stitching using long and short stitches to develop the form of an evergreen. ! Start at the top of the area with a small, horizontal stitch. Punch on top of the background flat stitching a little so that the tree appears to be 'in front' of the sky and not sunk into it. 164 2. Method 2 - These trees, in the background of many scenes, have a misty or hazy appearance. The stitches should extend over the background flat stitching using long and short stitches to develop the form of an evergreen. ! Start at the top of the area with a small, horizontal stitch. Punch on top of the background flat stitching a little so that the tree appears to be 'in front' of the sky and not sunk into it. 164 ! Continue stitching across and down the tree exaggerating the edges with long and short stitches. ! Continue stitching across and down the tree exaggerating the edges with long and short stitches. ! If the base area is wider than ½", it will be necessary to start using 2-3 stitches to fill it in. Do not use single length stitches if the area is wider than ½". ! If the base area is wider than ½", it will be necessary to start using 2-3 stitches to fill it in. Do not use single length stitches if the area is wider than ½". 3. Method 3 3. Method 3 Combination of Method 1 and 2. Combination of Method 1 and 2. ! Complete first layer using Method 1 ! Complete first layer using Method 1 ! Stitch over the points using Method 2. ! Stitch over the points using Method 2. TREES, EVERGREEN, LARGE TREES, EVERGREEN, LARGE 1. Fill in the area with a base layer of short choppy flat stitching. 1. Fill in the area with a base layer of short choppy flat stitching. 165 165 ! Continue stitching across and down the tree exaggerating the edges with long and short stitches. ! Continue stitching across and down the tree exaggerating the edges with long and short stitches. ! If the base area is wider than ½", it will be necessary to start using 2-3 stitches to fill it in. Do not use single length stitches if the area is wider than ½". ! If the base area is wider than ½", it will be necessary to start using 2-3 stitches to fill it in. Do not use single length stitches if the area is wider than ½". 3. Method 3 3. Method 3 Combination of Method 1 and 2. Combination of Method 1 and 2. ! Complete first layer using Method 1 ! Complete first layer using Method 1 ! Stitch over the points using Method 2. ! Stitch over the points using Method 2. TREES, EVERGREEN, LARGE TREES, EVERGREEN, LARGE 1. Fill in the area with a base layer of short choppy flat stitching. 1. Fill in the area with a base layer of short choppy flat stitching. 165 165 2. Work a layer of Blizzard Stitch jagged short stitches over the base layer. 2. Work a layer of Blizzard Stitch jagged short stitches over the base layer. TRESS, EVERGREEN, LAYERED TRESS, EVERGREEN, LAYERED A layered evergreen is made up of overlapping sections or 'skirts'. A layered evergreen is made up of overlapping sections or 'skirts'. ! Start with the lowest section working each subsequent layer up to the top. ! Start with the lowest section working each subsequent layer up to the top. ! Each skirt can consist of 13 areas. Start from the area at the top of the section, usually the darkest colour, working down to the lower edge. ! Each skirt can consist of 13 areas. Start from the area at the top of the section, usually the darkest colour, working down to the lower edge. ! Stitch direction is very important for this type of evergreen. Long and short stitches should radiate out at an angle on both sides but be straight up and down at the center point of the tree. ! Stitch direction is very important for this type of evergreen. Long and short stitches should radiate out at an angle on both sides but be straight up and down at the center point of the tree. 166 166 2. Work a layer of Blizzard Stitch jagged short stitches over the base layer. 2. Work a layer of Blizzard Stitch jagged short stitches over the base layer. TRESS, EVERGREEN, LAYERED TRESS, EVERGREEN, LAYERED A layered evergreen is made up of overlapping sections or 'skirts'. A layered evergreen is made up of overlapping sections or 'skirts'. ! Start with the lowest section working each subsequent layer up to the top. ! Start with the lowest section working each subsequent layer up to the top. ! Each skirt can consist of 13 areas. Start from the area at the top of the section, usually the darkest colour, working down to the lower edge. ! Each skirt can consist of 13 areas. Start from the area at the top of the section, usually the darkest colour, working down to the lower edge. ! Stitch direction is very important for this type of evergreen. Long and short stitches should radiate out at an angle on both sides but be straight up and down at the center point of the tree. ! Stitch direction is very important for this type of evergreen. Long and short stitches should radiate out at an angle on both sides but be straight up and down at the center point of the tree. 166 166 Add Wedge Stitches where necessary to develop this change in direction. ! Add Wedge Stitches where necessary to develop this change in direction. The second layer is stitched exactly like the first section - start with the top blending area, working down to the lower edge. The last blending area must overlap the top of the previous skirt. ! The second layer is stitched exactly like the first section - start with the top blending area, working down to the lower edge. The last blending area must overlap the top of the previous skirt. TREES, EVERGREEN, SMALL TREES, EVERGREEN, SMALL This type of evergreen is common to many scenes. Due to its size, it is used in the middle third of a picture. The background area must be filled in first. This type of evergreen is common to many scenes. Due to its size, it is used in the middle third of a picture. The background area must be filled in first. The stitching is worked from the top, down the left half, across the base and up the right side. Use long and short stitches on the outside stitches to develop the shape of the tree and when working over the center line area to avoid making a trough of punch marks. The stitching is worked from the top, down the left half, across the base and up the right side. Use long and short stitches on the outside stitches to develop the shape of the tree and when working over the center line area to avoid making a trough of punch marks. APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes 167 167 Add Wedge Stitches where necessary to develop this change in direction. ! Add Wedge Stitches where necessary to develop this change in direction. The second layer is stitched exactly like the first section - start with the top blending area, working down to the lower edge. The last blending area must overlap the top of the previous skirt. ! The second layer is stitched exactly like the first section - start with the top blending area, working down to the lower edge. The last blending area must overlap the top of the previous skirt. TREES, EVERGREEN, SMALL TREES, EVERGREEN, SMALL This type of evergreen is common to many scenes. Due to its size, it is used in the middle third of a picture. The background area must be filled in first. This type of evergreen is common to many scenes. Due to its size, it is used in the middle third of a picture. The background area must be filled in first. The stitching is worked from the top, down the left half, across the base and up the right side. Use long and short stitches on the outside stitches to develop the shape of the tree and when working over the center line area to avoid making a trough of punch marks. The stitching is worked from the top, down the left half, across the base and up the right side. Use long and short stitches on the outside stitches to develop the shape of the tree and when working over the center line area to avoid making a trough of punch marks. APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes 167 167 TECHNIQUE ! ! Start at the very top of the tree and stitch down the left half of the tree. The stitches should be on an angle working back and forth with long and short stitches. TECHNIQUE ! Alternate the placement of the stitches that cross the center area to avoid making a trough of punch marks: extend a stitch past the center line, the next stitch punched right in the center, the next stitch short of the center point. Alternate the placement of the stitches that cross the center area to avoid making a trough of punch marks: extend a stitch past the center line, the next stitch punched right in the center, the next stitch short of the center point. 'Wedging' the stitches inside the tree in this manner, staggers the amount of thread crossing the center area thereby preventing a bulge. 'Wedging' the stitches inside the tree in this manner, staggers the amount of thread crossing the center area thereby preventing a bulge. To work across the base, use Wedge Stitches to gradually swing the stitch direction. When you reach the center point of the base, the stitches should be straight up and down. Use Wedge Stitches again to swing the stitch direction to the right. ! 168 TECHNIQUE ! ! Start at the very top of the tree and stitch down the left half of the tree. The stitches should be on an angle working back and forth with long and short stitches. Start at the very top of the tree and stitch down the left half of the tree. The stitches should be on an angle working back and forth with long and short stitches. To work across the base, use Wedge Stitches to gradually swing the stitch direction. When you reach the center point of the base, the stitches should be straight up and down. Use Wedge Stitches again to swing the stitch direction to the right. 168 TECHNIQUE ! Start at the very top of the tree and stitch down the left half of the tree. The stitches should be on an angle working back and forth with long and short stitches. Alternate the placement of the stitches that cross the center area to avoid making a trough of punch marks: extend a stitch past the center line, the next stitch punched right in the center, the next stitch short of the center point. Alternate the placement of the stitches that cross the center area to avoid making a trough of punch marks: extend a stitch past the center line, the next stitch punched right in the center, the next stitch short of the center point. 'Wedging' the stitches inside the tree in this manner, staggers the amount of thread crossing the center area thereby preventing a bulge. 'Wedging' the stitches inside the tree in this manner, staggers the amount of thread crossing the center area thereby preventing a bulge. To work across the base, use Wedge Stitches to gradually swing the stitch direction. When you reach the center point of the base, the stitches should be straight up and down. Use Wedge Stitches again to swing the stitch direction to the right. 168 ! To work across the base, use Wedge Stitches to gradually swing the stitch direction. When you reach the center point of the base, the stitches should be straight up and down. Use Wedge Stitches again to swing the stitch direction to the right. 168 ! Work up the right half of the tree using long and short stitches that overlap the left side -if a long stitch was used on the left side. use a short stitch on the right side; if there is a short stitch on the left side. overlap it with a long stitch on the right side. ! Work up the right half of the tree using long and short stitches that overlap the left side -if a long stitch was used on the left side. use a short stitch on the right side; if there is a short stitch on the left side. overlap it with a long stitch on the right side. ! Maintain the same stitch angle on both sides of the tree. ! Maintain the same stitch angle on both sides of the tree. ! The long stitches that extend out the sides of the tree are the ones that give the tree its shape. ! The long stitches that extend out the sides of the tree are the ones that give the tree its shape. ! Highlights give the effect of spots where sunlight is striking some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitches or Claw Stitch. Keep the stitches small -in proportion to the tree. ! Highlights give the effect of spots where sunlight is striking some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitches or Claw Stitch. Keep the stitches small -in proportion to the tree. TREES, OLD PINE TREES, OLD PINE Old Pine bark has circular patches surrounded by the main trunk colour. The patches can be one solid colour or require blending of 2 colours. The stitch direction for the patches can be the same or opposite to the stitching on the main trunk - to Old Pine bark has circular patches surrounded by the main trunk colour. The patches can be one solid colour or require blending of 2 colours. The stitch direction for the patches can be the same or opposite to the stitching on the main trunk - to 169 169 ! Work up the right half of the tree using long and short stitches that overlap the left side -if a long stitch was used on the left side. use a short stitch on the right side; if there is a short stitch on the left side. overlap it with a long stitch on the right side. ! Work up the right half of the tree using long and short stitches that overlap the left side -if a long stitch was used on the left side. use a short stitch on the right side; if there is a short stitch on the left side. overlap it with a long stitch on the right side. ! Maintain the same stitch angle on both sides of the tree. ! Maintain the same stitch angle on both sides of the tree. ! The long stitches that extend out the sides of the tree are the ones that give the tree its shape. ! The long stitches that extend out the sides of the tree are the ones that give the tree its shape. ! Highlights give the effect of spots where sunlight is striking some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitches or Claw Stitch. Keep the stitches small -in proportion to the tree. ! Highlights give the effect of spots where sunlight is striking some of the branches. Use either Pine Needle Stitches or Claw Stitch. Keep the stitches small -in proportion to the tree. TREES, OLD PINE TREES, OLD PINE Old Pine bark has circular patches surrounded by the main trunk colour. The patches can be one solid colour or require blending of 2 colours. The stitch direction for the patches can be the same or opposite to the stitching on the main trunk - to Old Pine bark has circular patches surrounded by the main trunk colour. The patches can be one solid colour or require blending of 2 colours. The stitch direction for the patches can be the same or opposite to the stitching on the main trunk - to 169 169 emphasize areas of loose bark, some patches are stitched horizontally - the trunk is stitched vertically. emphasize areas of loose bark, some patches are stitched horizontally - the trunk is stitched vertically. APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Complete the main trunk area first. The stitch direction flows vertically, up and down the tree. ! Complete the main trunk area first. The stitch direction flows vertically, up and down the tree. ! Fill in each patch with the appropriate colours. Do not blend into the main trunk colour - keep the edges nice and firm. On large trees, the colour of the patch varies, that creates the realistic shading effect. Refer to your insert for colour placement and stitch direction. ! Fill in each patch with the appropriate colours. Do not blend into the main trunk colour - keep the edges nice and firm. On large trees, the colour of the patch varies, that creates the realistic shading effect. Refer to your insert for colour placement and stitch direction. TREES, VERTICAL TRUNKS TREES, VERTICAL TRUNKS Stitch direction runs vertically up and down the length of the trunk. All the background areas must be completed first. Stitch direction runs vertically up and down the length of the trunk. All the background areas must be completed first. 170 170 emphasize areas of loose bark, some patches are stitched horizontally - the trunk is stitched vertically. emphasize areas of loose bark, some patches are stitched horizontally - the trunk is stitched vertically. APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Complete the main trunk area first. The stitch direction flows vertically, up and down the tree. ! Complete the main trunk area first. The stitch direction flows vertically, up and down the tree. ! Fill in each patch with the appropriate colours. Do not blend into the main trunk colour - keep the edges nice and firm. On large trees, the colour of the patch varies, that creates the realistic shading effect. Refer to your insert for colour placement and stitch direction. ! Fill in each patch with the appropriate colours. Do not blend into the main trunk colour - keep the edges nice and firm. On large trees, the colour of the patch varies, that creates the realistic shading effect. Refer to your insert for colour placement and stitch direction. TREES, VERTICAL TRUNKS TREES, VERTICAL TRUNKS Stitch direction runs vertically up and down the length of the trunk. All the background areas must be completed first. Stitch direction runs vertically up and down the length of the trunk. All the background areas must be completed first. 170 170 APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Fill in with regular Flat Stitching working darkest to lightest. If there are areas that require green thread and the trunk colour is brown, complete the brown sections first, then the green. Accent techniques such as Reverse or Blizzard Stitch are used to represent moss growing on the trunk. ! - When the trunk is divided by blending lines as shown in the diagram, fill in as much as possible with continuous rows of Flat Stitch. Each projection is then filled individually before proceeding with the next colour. ! Fill in with regular Flat Stitching working darkest to lightest. If there are areas that require green thread and the trunk colour is brown, complete the brown sections first, then the green. Accent techniques such as Reverse or Blizzard Stitch are used to represent moss growing on the trunk. - When the trunk is divided by blending lines as shown in the diagram, fill in as much as possible with continuous rows of Flat Stitch. Each projection is then filled individually before proceeding with the next colour. Apply Stitch & Cuts to blend the colours together and to give a rugged effect. ! Apply Stitch & Cuts to blend the colours together and to give a rugged effect. TRIANGLE STITCH TRIANGLE STITCH This technique combines Ring Stitch and Inlay Stitch to create a triangle-shaped, decorative stitch. This technique combines Ring Stitch and Inlay Stitch to create a triangle-shaped, decorative stitch. APPLICATION APPLICATION Very limited. Very limited. 171 171 APPLICATION APPLICATION Scenes Scenes TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Fill in with regular Flat Stitching working darkest to lightest. If there are areas that require green thread and the trunk colour is brown, complete the brown sections first, then the green. Accent techniques such as Reverse or Blizzard Stitch are used to represent moss growing on the trunk. ! - When the trunk is divided by blending lines as shown in the diagram, fill in as much as possible with continuous rows of Flat Stitch. Each projection is then filled individually before proceeding with the next colour. ! Fill in with regular Flat Stitching working darkest to lightest. If there are areas that require green thread and the trunk colour is brown, complete the brown sections first, then the green. Accent techniques such as Reverse or Blizzard Stitch are used to represent moss growing on the trunk. - When the trunk is divided by blending lines as shown in the diagram, fill in as much as possible with continuous rows of Flat Stitch. Each projection is then filled individually before proceeding with the next colour. Apply Stitch & Cuts to blend the colours together and to give a rugged effect. ! Apply Stitch & Cuts to blend the colours together and to give a rugged effect. TRIANGLE STITCH TRIANGLE STITCH This technique combines Ring Stitch and Inlay Stitch to create a triangle-shaped, decorative stitch. This technique combines Ring Stitch and Inlay Stitch to create a triangle-shaped, decorative stitch. APPLICATION APPLICATION Very limited. Very limited. 171 171 TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Follow the Ring Stitch technique to make the desired number of loops. ! Follow the Ring Stitch technique to make the desired number of loops. ! Press the loop flat to the canvas. ! Press the loop flat to the canvas. ! Flatten out the round tip of the loop to make a triangle shape by overstitching the whole thread with a nice, tight Satin Stitch using 2/4 pull thread in a bunka needle. ! Flatten out the round tip of the loop to make a triangle shape by overstitching the whole thread with a nice, tight Satin Stitch using 2/4 pull thread in a bunka needle. TWISTED DOT TWISTED DOT A thread in a Twisted Dot has a swirled effect like a soft ice cream cone. A thread in a Twisted Dot has a swirled effect like a soft ice cream cone. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative Stitch. Decorative Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! A Flat or Fluffy needle threaded with 2/4 pull thread may be used depending on the desired size of dot. ! A Flat or Fluffy needle threaded with 2/4 pull thread may be used depending on the desired size of dot. ! Take the needle behind the work frame and punch up through to the front of the canvas. ! Take the needle behind the work frame and punch up through to the front of the canvas. ! To hold the thread in place before twisting, press a fingernail to the thread and against the canvas just at the point where it emerges from the canvas ! To hold the thread in place before twisting, press a fingernail to the thread and against the canvas just at the point where it emerges from the canvas 172 TECHNIQUE 172 TECHNIQUE ! Follow the Ring Stitch technique to make the desired number of loops. ! Follow the Ring Stitch technique to make the desired number of loops. ! Press the loop flat to the canvas. ! Press the loop flat to the canvas. ! Flatten out the round tip of the loop to make a triangle shape by overstitching the whole thread with a nice, tight Satin Stitch using 2/4 pull thread in a bunka needle. ! Flatten out the round tip of the loop to make a triangle shape by overstitching the whole thread with a nice, tight Satin Stitch using 2/4 pull thread in a bunka needle. TWISTED DOT TWISTED DOT A thread in a Twisted Dot has a swirled effect like a soft ice cream cone. A thread in a Twisted Dot has a swirled effect like a soft ice cream cone. APPLICATION APPLICATION Decorative Stitch. Decorative Stitch. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! A Flat or Fluffy needle threaded with 2/4 pull thread may be used depending on the desired size of dot. ! A Flat or Fluffy needle threaded with 2/4 pull thread may be used depending on the desired size of dot. ! Take the needle behind the work frame and punch up through to the front of the canvas. ! Take the needle behind the work frame and punch up through to the front of the canvas. ! To hold the thread in place before twisting, press a fingernail to the thread and against the canvas just at the point where it emerges from the canvas ! To hold the thread in place before twisting, press a fingernail to the thread and against the canvas just at the point where it emerges from the canvas 172 172 ! Slowly turn the needle around in a circular motion. ! Slowly turn the needle around in a circular motion. ! As the thread twists, pull down slowly withdrawing the needle from the canvas. Do not pull down too hard on the needle or the stitch will be pulled out. ! As the thread twists, pull down slowly withdrawing the needle from the canvas. Do not pull down too hard on the needle or the stitch will be pulled out. TWISTED PICOT TWISTED PICOT Forms a dot, slightly larger than a Reverse Stitch dot and similar in appearance to a Twisted Dot. Forms a dot, slightly larger than a Reverse Stitch dot and similar in appearance to a Twisted Dot. APPLICATION APPLICATION Twisted Picots can be joined with 'Lead' stitches or left separate. The bubbly effect is frequently used in waterfalls or ocean waves. Twisted Picots can be joined with 'Lead' stitches or left separate. The bubbly effect is frequently used in waterfalls or ocean waves. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Lift the needle about ½" to ¾" above the canvas. ! Lift the needle about ½" to ¾" above the canvas. ! To hold the thread in place, keep the finger of your left hand pressing on the thread at the back of the canvas. ! To hold the thread in place, keep the finger of your left hand pressing on the thread at the back of the canvas. 173 173 ! Slowly turn the needle around in a circular motion. ! Slowly turn the needle around in a circular motion. ! As the thread twists, pull down slowly withdrawing the needle from the canvas. Do not pull down too hard on the needle or the stitch will be pulled out. ! As the thread twists, pull down slowly withdrawing the needle from the canvas. Do not pull down too hard on the needle or the stitch will be pulled out. TWISTED PICOT TWISTED PICOT Forms a dot, slightly larger than a Reverse Stitch dot and similar in appearance to a Twisted Dot. Forms a dot, slightly larger than a Reverse Stitch dot and similar in appearance to a Twisted Dot. APPLICATION APPLICATION Twisted Picots can be joined with 'Lead' stitches or left separate. The bubbly effect is frequently used in waterfalls or ocean waves. Twisted Picots can be joined with 'Lead' stitches or left separate. The bubbly effect is frequently used in waterfalls or ocean waves. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Punch into the canvas and pull the end to the back. ! Lift the needle about ½" to ¾" above the canvas. ! Lift the needle about ½" to ¾" above the canvas. ! To hold the thread in place, keep the finger of your left hand pressing on the thread at the back of the canvas. ! To hold the thread in place, keep the finger of your left hand pressing on the thread at the back of the canvas. 173 173 ! Rapidly twirl the needle in a counter-clockwise motion. This will tighten up the fibers in the thread causing it to twist down into a knob. ! Rapidly twirl the needle in a counter-clockwise motion. This will tighten up the fibers in the thread causing it to twist down into a knob. ! Punch back into the canvas, almost directly under the dot. ! Punch back into the canvas, almost directly under the dot. ! Take a step to where you would like the next dot with a 1/2" 'Lead' stitch. Repeat. ! Take a step to where you would like the next dot with a 1/2" 'Lead' stitch. Repeat. WATERFALLS WATERFALLS Stitching a waterfall may require combining various techniques to create the desired effect gentle flow; rapids rushing over rocks; foaming turbulence floating away from the actual waterfall. The basic principle of stitching the background first is very important with subsequent techniques applied on top. A large waterfall could consist of several secondary waterfalls. Stitching a waterfall may require combining various techniques to create the desired effect gentle flow; rapids rushing over rocks; foaming turbulence floating away from the actual waterfall. The basic principle of stitching the background first is very important with subsequent techniques applied on top. A large waterfall could consist of several secondary waterfalls. Possible Techniques: Possible Techniques: Blending Blizzard Foam Line Padding Overlay Running Stitch & Cut Stretch 3 Colour Padding Reverse/clip Blending Blizzard Foam Line Padding Overlay 174 Running Stitch & Cut Stretch 3 Colour Padding Reverse/clip 174 ! Rapidly twirl the needle in a counter-clockwise motion. This will tighten up the fibers in the thread causing it to twist down into a knob. ! Rapidly twirl the needle in a counter-clockwise motion. This will tighten up the fibers in the thread causing it to twist down into a knob. ! Punch back into the canvas, almost directly under the dot. ! Punch back into the canvas, almost directly under the dot. ! Take a step to where you would like the next dot with a 1/2" 'Lead' stitch. Repeat. ! Take a step to where you would like the next dot with a 1/2" 'Lead' stitch. Repeat. WATERFALLS WATERFALLS Stitching a waterfall may require combining various techniques to create the desired effect gentle flow; rapids rushing over rocks; foaming turbulence floating away from the actual waterfall. The basic principle of stitching the background first is very important with subsequent techniques applied on top. A large waterfall could consist of several secondary waterfalls. Stitching a waterfall may require combining various techniques to create the desired effect gentle flow; rapids rushing over rocks; foaming turbulence floating away from the actual waterfall. The basic principle of stitching the background first is very important with subsequent techniques applied on top. A large waterfall could consist of several secondary waterfalls. Possible Techniques: Possible Techniques: Blending Blizzard Foam Line Padding Overlay 174 Running Stitch & Cut Stretch 3 Colour Padding Reverse/clip Blending Blizzard Foam Line Padding Overlay 174 Running Stitch & Cut Stretch 3 Colour Padding Reverse/clip TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Complete each secondary waterfall, one at a time, progressing from the section furthest in the background and finishing with the foreground portion. ! Complete each secondary waterfall, one at a time, progressing from the section furthest in the background and finishing with the foreground portion. ! Line padding can be used to emphasize the top edge of each section of the waterfall. ! Line padding can be used to emphasize the top edge of each section of the waterfall. ! Flat stitch the entire area to create a base, using the appropriate colours working from darkest to lightest. The darkest colours, the area closest to rocks, grass, etc., illustrate the deepest part of the waterfall and are therefore furthest to the background. ! Flat stitch the entire area to create a base, using the appropriate colours working from darkest to lightest. The darkest colours, the area closest to rocks, grass, etc., illustrate the deepest part of the waterfall and are therefore furthest to the background. ! When the base layer is completed, the vertical rows of colour will give it a very striped appearance. ! When the base layer is completed, the vertical rows of colour will give it a very striped appearance. 175 TECHNIQUE 175 TECHNIQUE ! Complete each secondary waterfall, one at a time, progressing from the section furthest in the background and finishing with the foreground portion. ! Complete each secondary waterfall, one at a time, progressing from the section furthest in the background and finishing with the foreground portion. ! Line padding can be used to emphasize the top edge of each section of the waterfall. ! Line padding can be used to emphasize the top edge of each section of the waterfall. ! Flat stitch the entire area to create a base, using the appropriate colours working from darkest to lightest. The darkest colours, the area closest to rocks, grass, etc., illustrate the deepest part of the waterfall and are therefore furthest to the background. ! Flat stitch the entire area to create a base, using the appropriate colours working from darkest to lightest. The darkest colours, the area closest to rocks, grass, etc., illustrate the deepest part of the waterfall and are therefore furthest to the background. ! When the base layer is completed, the vertical rows of colour will give it a very striped appearance. ! When the base layer is completed, the vertical rows of colour will give it a very striped appearance. 175 175 ! To make it more natural-looking numerous rows of Stitch & Cuts should be applied on top of the base. To make it more natural-looking numerous rows of Stitch & Cuts should be applied on top of the base. - apply Stitch & Cuts of the darkest thread over the medium thread. - next, apply the medium colour over the lighter colour. - apply Stitch & Cuts of the darkest thread over the medium thread. - next, apply the medium colour over the lighter colour. Work your way back over this first layer of blending with a second layer. ! - apply Stitch & cuts of the lightest thread over the medium colour. - next, apply the medium colour over the darkest thread. ! Use either the lightest colour thread or some white thread to emphasize the heavier or more active parts of the waterfall - the top, where the water is hitting a rock, at the base. SUGGESTIONS ! ! ! Use Foam or Stretch Stitch to develop a frothy effect at the base of the waterfall. Use Blizzard Stitch to make a gentle flow of water away from the base of the waterfall. Use Reverse or Clip Stitch to add droplets or splashes of water to the lightest coloured area. - apply Stitch & cuts of the lightest thread over the medium colour. - next, apply the medium colour over the darkest thread. ! ! ! ! ! ! Use Blizzard Stitch to make a gentle flow of water away from the base of the waterfall. Use Reverse or Clip Stitch to add droplets or splashes of water to the lightest coloured area. To make it more natural-looking numerous rows of Stitch & Cuts should be applied on top of the base. To make it more natural-looking numerous rows of Stitch & Cuts should be applied on top of the base. - apply Stitch & Cuts of the darkest thread over the medium thread. - next, apply the medium colour over the lighter colour. - apply Stitch & Cuts of the darkest thread over the medium thread. - next, apply the medium colour over the lighter colour. Work your way back over this first layer of blending with a second layer. Use either the lightest colour thread or some white thread to emphasize the heavier or more active parts of the waterfall - the top, where the water is hitting a rock, at the base. SUGGESTIONS ! Use Foam or Stretch Stitch to develop a frothy effect at the base of the waterfall. 176 ! - apply Stitch & cuts of the lightest thread over the medium colour. - next, apply the medium colour over the darkest thread. ! Use either the lightest colour thread or some white thread to emphasize the heavier or more active parts of the waterfall - the top, where the water is hitting a rock, at the base. SUGGESTIONS 176 ! Work your way back over this first layer of blending with a second layer. Use Foam or Stretch Stitch to develop a frothy effect at the base of the waterfall. Use Blizzard Stitch to make a gentle flow of water away from the base of the waterfall. Use Reverse or Clip Stitch to add droplets or splashes of water to the lightest coloured area. 176 Work your way back over this first layer of blending with a second layer. - apply Stitch & cuts of the lightest thread over the medium colour. - next, apply the medium colour over the darkest thread. ! Use either the lightest colour thread or some white thread to emphasize the heavier or more active parts of the waterfall - the top, where the water is hitting a rock, at the base. SUGGESTIONS ! ! ! Use Foam or Stretch Stitch to develop a frothy effect at the base of the waterfall. Use Blizzard Stitch to make a gentle flow of water away from the base of the waterfall. Use Reverse or Clip Stitch to add droplets or splashes of water to the lightest coloured area. 176 WEAVING WEAVING This technique creates a basket-weave design using 4 to 5 colours of 2/4 pull thread and an ordinary sewing needle. The area is first filled in with a base layer, keeping the colours in the same sequence. You then weave the second layer under and over the warp threads in the colour order. This technique creates a basket-weave design using 4 to 5 colours of 2/4 pull thread and an ordinary sewing needle. The area is first filled in with a base layer, keeping the colours in the same sequence. You then weave the second layer under and over the warp threads in the colour order. Groups of thread, consisting of one row of each colour will be worked over the area: 1 row of each of the 5 colours = 1 group. Groups of thread, consisting of one row of each colour will be worked over the area: 1 row of each of the 5 colours = 1 group. The sequence of thread colours should be repeated for each Group. The sequence of thread colours should be repeated for each Group. APPLICATION APPLICATION Limited, used most often in original designs -very few kits utilize this technique. Limited, used most often in original designs -very few kits utilize this technique. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE FIRST LAYER: FIRST LAYER: ! Thread up sewing needles with about 12" of 2/4 pull thread of the various colours being used. ! Thread up sewing needles with about 12" of 2/4 pull thread of the various colours being used. ! Bring the first colour up from the back, take one long stitch up across the whole area and take the needle to the back. ! Bring the first colour up from the back, take one long stitch up across the whole area and take the needle to the back. ! Move the needle over to the edge of the next box and take one stitch down to the bottom. ! Move the needle over to the edge of the next box and take one stitch down to the bottom. 177 177 WEAVING WEAVING This technique creates a basket-weave design using 4 to 5 colours of 2/4 pull thread and an ordinary sewing needle. The area is first filled in with a base layer, keeping the colours in the same sequence. You then weave the second layer under and over the warp threads in the colour order. This technique creates a basket-weave design using 4 to 5 colours of 2/4 pull thread and an ordinary sewing needle. The area is first filled in with a base layer, keeping the colours in the same sequence. You then weave the second layer under and over the warp threads in the colour order. Groups of thread, consisting of one row of each colour will be worked over the area: 1 row of each of the 5 colours = 1 group. Groups of thread, consisting of one row of each colour will be worked over the area: 1 row of each of the 5 colours = 1 group. The sequence of thread colours should be repeated for each Group. The sequence of thread colours should be repeated for each Group. APPLICATION APPLICATION Limited, used most often in original designs -very few kits utilize this technique. Limited, used most often in original designs -very few kits utilize this technique. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE FIRST LAYER: FIRST LAYER: ! Thread up sewing needles with about 12" of 2/4 pull thread of the various colours being used. ! Thread up sewing needles with about 12" of 2/4 pull thread of the various colours being used. ! Bring the first colour up from the back, take one long stitch up across the whole area and take the needle to the back. ! Bring the first colour up from the back, take one long stitch up across the whole area and take the needle to the back. ! Move the needle over to the edge of the next box and take one stitch down to the bottom. ! Move the needle over to the edge of the next box and take one stitch down to the bottom. 177 177 ! Repeat the above, placing one row of the first colour in each box. Do not cut the thread - set it aside for further use (stick it into the side of the canvas). ! Repeat the above, placing one row of the first colour in each box. Do not cut the thread - set it aside for further use (stick it into the side of the canvas). ! Bring the needle with the second thread colour up right beside the first thread in the first box and take another long stitch across to the other side. ! Bring the needle with the second thread colour up right beside the first thread in the first box and take another long stitch across to the other side. ! Place one row of the second colour in each box. Set aside the needle. ! Place one row of the second colour in each box. Set aside the needle. ! Repeat the above until each box is filled with one row of each colour. This completes the first layer. ! Repeat the above until each box is filled with one row of each colour. This completes the first layer. SECOND LAYER: SECOND LAYER: LOCKING IN THE WEAVE LOCKING IN THE WEAVE Working in the opposite direction (horizontally) and using the same colour sequence, the method for the second layer (weaving layer) differs from the first. Working in the opposite direction (horizontally) and using the same colour sequence, the method for the second layer (weaving layer) differs from the first. 178 178 ! Repeat the above, placing one row of the first colour in each box. Do not cut the thread - set it aside for further use (stick it into the side of the canvas). ! Repeat the above, placing one row of the first colour in each box. Do not cut the thread - set it aside for further use (stick it into the side of the canvas). ! Bring the needle with the second thread colour up right beside the first thread in the first box and take another long stitch across to the other side. ! Bring the needle with the second thread colour up right beside the first thread in the first box and take another long stitch across to the other side. ! Place one row of the second colour in each box. Set aside the needle. ! Place one row of the second colour in each box. Set aside the needle. ! Repeat the above until each box is filled with one row of each colour. This completes the first layer. ! Repeat the above until each box is filled with one row of each colour. This completes the first layer. SECOND LAYER: SECOND LAYER: LOCKING IN THE WEAVE LOCKING IN THE WEAVE Working in the opposite direction (horizontally) and using the same colour sequence, the method for the second layer (weaving layer) differs from the first. Working in the opposite direction (horizontally) and using the same colour sequence, the method for the second layer (weaving layer) differs from the first. 178 178 The second layer weaves under and over the threads of the first layer. It is easier if you hold the sewing needle by the pointed end and slide the eye end of the needle under and over the threads of the first layer. The second layer weaves under and over the threads of the first layer. It is easier if you hold the sewing needle by the pointed end and slide the eye end of the needle under and over the threads of the first layer. Group 1 Group 1 Start with the first shade by sliding the needle under and over each group of the first layer (under 5 threads. over 5 threads, under 5. over 5. etc.). DO NOT MOVE TO THE NEXT BOX - set the needle aside. Repeat the same under and over pattern with 1 row of each colour until the first group is completed. Start with the first shade by sliding the needle under and over each group of the first layer (under 5 threads. over 5 threads, under 5. over 5. etc.). DO NOT MOVE TO THE NEXT BOX - set the needle aside. Repeat the same under and over pattern with 1 row of each colour until the first group is completed. Group 2 Group 2 Returning to the first colour of the group, lock in the weave by reversing the under and over pattern used with the first group -where you went under the threads of the first layer, you will now go over them; where you went over the threads of the first layer, you will now go under. Returning to the first colour of the group, lock in the weave by reversing the under and over pattern used with the first group -where you went under the threads of the first layer, you will now go over them; where you went over the threads of the first layer, you will now go under. Repeat the same under and over pattern for all the colours of Group 2. Repeat the same under and over pattern for all the colours of Group 2. Repeat this weaving pattern for the remaining boxes. REMEMBER to reverse the under and over pattern after each GROUP. The raw edges of a woven area can be hidden with a row of a decorative stitch such as Picot or Cord. Repeat this weaving pattern for the remaining boxes. REMEMBER to reverse the under and over pattern after each GROUP. The raw edges of a woven area can be hidden with a row of a decorative stitch such as Picot or Cord. 179 179 The second layer weaves under and over the threads of the first layer. It is easier if you hold the sewing needle by the pointed end and slide the eye end of the needle under and over the threads of the first layer. The second layer weaves under and over the threads of the first layer. It is easier if you hold the sewing needle by the pointed end and slide the eye end of the needle under and over the threads of the first layer. Group 1 Group 1 Start with the first shade by sliding the needle under and over each group of the first layer (under 5 threads. over 5 threads, under 5. over 5. etc.). DO NOT MOVE TO THE NEXT BOX - set the needle aside. Repeat the same under and over pattern with 1 row of each colour until the first group is completed. Start with the first shade by sliding the needle under and over each group of the first layer (under 5 threads. over 5 threads, under 5. over 5. etc.). DO NOT MOVE TO THE NEXT BOX - set the needle aside. Repeat the same under and over pattern with 1 row of each colour until the first group is completed. Group 2 Group 2 Returning to the first colour of the group, lock in the weave by reversing the under and over pattern used with the first group -where you went under the threads of the first layer, you will now go over them; where you went over the threads of the first layer, you will now go under. Returning to the first colour of the group, lock in the weave by reversing the under and over pattern used with the first group -where you went under the threads of the first layer, you will now go over them; where you went over the threads of the first layer, you will now go under. Repeat the same under and over pattern for all the colours of Group 2. Repeat the same under and over pattern for all the colours of Group 2. Repeat this weaving pattern for the remaining boxes. REMEMBER to reverse the under and over pattern after each GROUP. The raw edges of a woven area can be hidden with a row of a decorative stitch such as Picot or Cord. Repeat this weaving pattern for the remaining boxes. REMEMBER to reverse the under and over pattern after each GROUP. The raw edges of a woven area can be hidden with a row of a decorative stitch such as Picot or Cord. 179 179 WEDGE STITCHING WEDGE STITCHING As the name implies a 'wedge' is a shorter row or stitch worked between longer areas to ensure smooth, even work for: As the name implies a 'wedge' is a shorter row or stitch worked between longer areas to ensure smooth, even work for: ! an irregular shaped area such as a triangle where the stitch direction fans out from a very narrow end to the opposite side which is much wider. ! an irregular shaped area such as a triangle where the stitch direction fans out from a very narrow end to the opposite side which is much wider. ! an area where there is a drastic change in stitch direction. ! an area where there is a drastic change in stitch direction. This concept of Wedging is applied to single stitches as well as to rows of stitching. This concept of Wedging is applied to single stitches as well as to rows of stitching. APPLICATION APPLICATION Used extensively especially in mountains, flowers. Used extensively especially in mountains, flowers. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE 'Wedge Stitches' are short length stitches Wedge Rows are rows of stitches. A Wedge Row is shorter in length than the surrounding rows. 'Wedge Stitches' are short length stitches 180 Wedge Rows are rows of stitches. A Wedge Row is shorter in length than the surrounding rows. 180 WEDGE STITCHING WEDGE STITCHING As the name implies a 'wedge' is a shorter row or stitch worked between longer areas to ensure smooth, even work for: As the name implies a 'wedge' is a shorter row or stitch worked between longer areas to ensure smooth, even work for: ! an irregular shaped area such as a triangle where the stitch direction fans out from a very narrow end to the opposite side which is much wider. ! an irregular shaped area such as a triangle where the stitch direction fans out from a very narrow end to the opposite side which is much wider. ! an area where there is a drastic change in stitch direction. ! an area where there is a drastic change in stitch direction. This concept of Wedging is applied to single stitches as well as to rows of stitching. This concept of Wedging is applied to single stitches as well as to rows of stitching. APPLICATION APPLICATION Used extensively especially in mountains, flowers. Used extensively especially in mountains, flowers. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE 'Wedge Stitches' are short length stitches 180 Wedge Rows are rows of stitches. A Wedge Row is shorter in length than the surrounding rows. 'Wedge Stitches' are short length stitches 180 Wedge Rows are rows of stitches. A Wedge Row is shorter in length than the surrounding rows. 1. FOR IRREGULAR SHAPED AREAS 1. FOR IRREGULAR SHAPED AREAS More thread is required to cover the wider end than the narrow end. If the top area is the widest, wedge stitches or wedge rows are worked in the pattern of the letter "M". Every stitch is worked to the widest area but only a few reach the narrow end. These shorter stitches are called Wedge Stitches. More thread is required to cover the wider end than the narrow end. If the top area is the widest, wedge stitches or wedge rows are worked in the pattern of the letter "M". Every stitch is worked to the widest area but only a few reach the narrow end. These shorter stitches are called Wedge Stitches. ! Working from the narrow side, take 1 stitch to the widest edge. ! Working from the narrow side, take 1 stitch to the widest edge. ! Return 1/2 way down the first stitch (towards the narrow side) and punch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! Return 1/2 way down the first stitch (towards the narrow side) and punch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! Return toward the widest edge again with a regular length stitch. ! Return toward the widest edge again with a regular length stitch. ! Return down this third stitch with a Wedge Stitch which is either shorter or longer than the first Wedge. If all the Wedges were punched in at the same point, a row of punch marks would become visible. ! Return down this third stitch with a Wedge Stitch which is either shorter or longer than the first Wedge. If all the Wedges were punched in at the same point, a row of punch marks would become visible. 181 1. FOR IRREGULAR SHAPED AREAS 181 1. FOR IRREGULAR SHAPED AREAS More thread is required to cover the wider end than the narrow end. If the top area is the widest, wedge stitches or wedge rows are worked in the pattern of the letter "M". Every stitch is worked to the widest area but only a few reach the narrow end. These shorter stitches are called Wedge Stitches. More thread is required to cover the wider end than the narrow end. If the top area is the widest, wedge stitches or wedge rows are worked in the pattern of the letter "M". Every stitch is worked to the widest area but only a few reach the narrow end. These shorter stitches are called Wedge Stitches. ! Working from the narrow side, take 1 stitch to the widest edge. ! Working from the narrow side, take 1 stitch to the widest edge. ! Return 1/2 way down the first stitch (towards the narrow side) and punch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! Return 1/2 way down the first stitch (towards the narrow side) and punch. This is a Wedge Stitch. ! Return toward the widest edge again with a regular length stitch. ! Return toward the widest edge again with a regular length stitch. ! Return down this third stitch with a Wedge Stitch which is either shorter or longer than the first Wedge. If all the Wedges were punched in at the same point, a row of punch marks would become visible. ! Return down this third stitch with a Wedge Stitch which is either shorter or longer than the first Wedge. If all the Wedges were punched in at the same point, a row of punch marks would become visible. 181 181 ! If the base of the area is the widest, such as in a mountain, then the wedge rows are reversed, following the pattern of the letter "W' where every stitch is worked to the bottom but only a few reach the top. ! If the base of the area is the widest, such as in a mountain, then the wedge rows are reversed, following the pattern of the letter "W' where every stitch is worked to the bottom but only a few reach the top. Wedge Rows are used for large areas where more than one stitch length is required. Wedge Rows are used for large areas where more than one stitch length is required. 2. WEDGING FOR CHANGE IN STITCH DIRECTION 2. WEDGING FOR CHANGE IN STITCH DIRECTION Consists of a single, shorter stitch/row which is worked between regular stitching to develop a smooth change of direction. Consists of a single, shorter stitch/row which is worked between regular stitching to develop a smooth change of direction. APPLICATION APPLICATION General knowledge that is used in various applications. General knowledge that is used in various applications. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Make one Wedge Stitch/Row about every 2nd or 3rd stitch, varying the length. This will enable you to 'swing' the regular length stitches around to the desired direction. ! Make one Wedge Stitch/Row about every 2nd or 3rd stitch, varying the length. This will enable you to 'swing' the regular length stitches around to the desired direction. ! Working from the narrow side of the area, take 1 stitch/row to the widest edge. ! Working from the narrow side of the area, take 1 stitch/row to the widest edge. ! Returning to the narrow side, make one Wedge Stitch/Row half the length of the first stitch. ! Returning to the narrow side, make one Wedge Stitch/Row half the length of the first stitch. 182 ! 182 If the base of the area is the widest, such as in a mountain, then the wedge rows are reversed, following the pattern of the letter "W' where every stitch is worked to the bottom but only a few reach the top. ! If the base of the area is the widest, such as in a mountain, then the wedge rows are reversed, following the pattern of the letter "W' where every stitch is worked to the bottom but only a few reach the top. Wedge Rows are used for large areas where more than one stitch length is required. Wedge Rows are used for large areas where more than one stitch length is required. 2. WEDGING FOR CHANGE IN STITCH DIRECTION 2. WEDGING FOR CHANGE IN STITCH DIRECTION Consists of a single, shorter stitch/row which is worked between regular stitching to develop a smooth change of direction. Consists of a single, shorter stitch/row which is worked between regular stitching to develop a smooth change of direction. APPLICATION APPLICATION General knowledge that is used in various applications. General knowledge that is used in various applications. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! Make one Wedge Stitch/Row about every 2nd or 3rd stitch, varying the length. This will enable you to 'swing' the regular length stitches around to the desired direction. ! Make one Wedge Stitch/Row about every 2nd or 3rd stitch, varying the length. This will enable you to 'swing' the regular length stitches around to the desired direction. ! Working from the narrow side of the area, take 1 stitch/row to the widest edge. ! Working from the narrow side of the area, take 1 stitch/row to the widest edge. ! Returning to the narrow side, make one Wedge Stitch/Row half the length of the first stitch. ! Returning to the narrow side, make one Wedge Stitch/Row half the length of the first stitch. 182 182 ! Return out to the widest edge again and then right back to the narrow edge with a full length stitch/row. ! Return out to the widest edge again and then right back to the narrow edge with a full length stitch/row. ZIGZAG STITCH ZIGZAG STITCH Very basic stitch referred to as a technique more than a specific stitch. It is worked across the axis of a straight line. Very basic stitch referred to as a technique more than a specific stitch. It is worked across the axis of a straight line. APPLICATION APPLICATION Used on many scenes for the rough, shadowy effect of distant trees. Decorative Stitching. Used on many scenes for the rough, shadowy effect of distant trees. Decorative Stitching. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! punch needle from front of canvas, taking the beginning thread to the back of fabric. ! punch needle from front of canvas, taking the beginning thread to the back of fabric. ! Stitch side to side across the straight line. ! Stitch side to side across the straight line. Variations: Short & Narrow Variations: Long & Open Irregular Short & Narrow Long & Open Irregular 183 ! Return out to the widest edge again and then right back to the narrow edge with a full length stitch/row. 183 ! Return out to the widest edge again and then right back to the narrow edge with a full length stitch/row. ZIGZAG STITCH ZIGZAG STITCH Very basic stitch referred to as a technique more than a specific stitch. It is worked across the axis of a straight line. Very basic stitch referred to as a technique more than a specific stitch. It is worked across the axis of a straight line. APPLICATION APPLICATION Used on many scenes for the rough, shadowy effect of distant trees. Decorative Stitching. Used on many scenes for the rough, shadowy effect of distant trees. Decorative Stitching. TECHNIQUE TECHNIQUE ! punch needle from front of canvas, taking the beginning thread to the back of fabric. ! punch needle from front of canvas, taking the beginning thread to the back of fabric. ! Stitch side to side across the straight line. ! Stitch side to side across the straight line. Variations: Short & Narrow Variations: Long & Open Irregular 183 Short & Narrow Long & Open Irregular 183 Section 111 Section 111 Appendices Appendices Appendix 1 Appendix 11 Framing Colour Chart Appendix 1 Appendix 11 Framing Colour Chart Section 111 Section 111 Appendices Appendices Appendix 1 Appendix 11 Framing Colour Chart Appendix 1 Appendix 11 Framing Colour Chart FRAMING FRAMING Trim Trim To prepare the completed picture for framing, turn the work frame over and carefully trim off the excess thread on the back of the canvas with a pair of very sharp scissors. Remove the canvas from the work frame. To prepare the completed picture for framing, turn the work frame over and carefully trim off the excess thread on the back of the canvas with a pair of very sharp scissors. Remove the canvas from the work frame. Mounting Mounting The canvas is then stretched and mounted onto a backboard. 'Foamcore' is recommended because it is very strong but very light in weight. Other backings such as heavy cardboard can also be used. The larger the picture, the stronger the mounting board. Use two-sided tape and/or staples to mount and secure the canvas onto the backboard. The canvas is then stretched and mounted onto a backboard. 'Foamcore' is recommended because it is very strong but very light in weight. Other backings such as heavy cardboard can also be used. The larger the picture, the stronger the mounting board. Use two-sided tape and/or staples to mount and secure the canvas onto the backboard. Mats Mats The use of at least one mat is recommended. Mats serve two purposes - compliments the finished appearance of the picture but more importantly acts as a spacer between the canvas and the glass so that the glass is not resting directly on top of the threads. The use of at least one mat is recommended. Mats serve two purposes - compliments the finished appearance of the picture but more importantly acts as a spacer between the canvas and the glass so that the glass is not resting directly on top of the threads. Glass Glass Glass is mandatory on all Bunka Shishu pictures for protection from dust, grease, etc. Regular glass is most widely used rather than the non-glare type. Non-glare is more costly and tends to dull the thread colours and 'flatten' out the 2-dimensional effect of the stitching. Glass is mandatory on all Bunka Shishu pictures for protection from dust, grease, etc. Regular glass is most widely used rather than the non-glare type. Non-glare is more costly and tends to dull the thread colours and 'flatten' out the 2-dimensional effect of the stitching. 186 186 FRAMING FRAMING Trim Trim To prepare the completed picture for framing, turn the work frame over and carefully trim off the excess thread on the back of the canvas with a pair of very sharp scissors. Remove the canvas from the work frame. To prepare the completed picture for framing, turn the work frame over and carefully trim off the excess thread on the back of the canvas with a pair of very sharp scissors. Remove the canvas from the work frame. Mounting Mounting The canvas is then stretched and mounted onto a backboard. 'Foamcore' is recommended because it is very strong but very light in weight. Other backings such as heavy cardboard can also be used. The larger the picture, the stronger the mounting board. Use two-sided tape and/or staples to mount and secure the canvas onto the backboard. The canvas is then stretched and mounted onto a backboard. 'Foamcore' is recommended because it is very strong but very light in weight. Other backings such as heavy cardboard can also be used. The larger the picture, the stronger the mounting board. Use two-sided tape and/or staples to mount and secure the canvas onto the backboard. Mats Mats The use of at least one mat is recommended. Mats serve two purposes - compliments the finished appearance of the picture but more importantly acts as a spacer between the canvas and the glass so that the glass is not resting directly on top of the threads. The use of at least one mat is recommended. Mats serve two purposes - compliments the finished appearance of the picture but more importantly acts as a spacer between the canvas and the glass so that the glass is not resting directly on top of the threads. Glass Glass Glass is mandatory on all Bunka Shishu pictures for protection from dust, grease, etc. Regular glass is most widely used rather than the non-glare type. Non-glare is more costly and tends to dull the thread colours and 'flatten' out the 2-dimensional effect of the stitching. Glass is mandatory on all Bunka Shishu pictures for protection from dust, grease, etc. Regular glass is most widely used rather than the non-glare type. Non-glare is more costly and tends to dull the thread colours and 'flatten' out the 2-dimensional effect of the stitching. 186 186 Yellow/Green 31 Yellow 207 Orange M119 Red 90 Black 73 Violet 202 201 200 BlueViolet 179 178 177 Turquoise 65 64 63 Blue This chart lists all the Tokyo Bunka thread colors according to family groupings. The shades within each family are complimentary to each other; the numbers listed separately are distinct, individual colors that do not belong to any specific family. The letter "M" designates Metallic thread. 169 74 224 213 191 212 M120 M121 3 214 37 193 4 186 195 12 5 209 159 115 208 M124 39 114 32 61 40 231 219 108 M126 M128 182 233 19 20 77 35 230 87 187 49 21 57 66 38 M134 76 51 81 170 228 226 153 48 55 M118 98 154 184 106 78 229 220 196 M133 53 30 189 203 105 18 227 75 58 21 155 50 225 6 185 M132 27 232 218 M131 M111 80 84 M130 Yellow/Green 31 Yellow 207 Orange M119 Red 90 Black 73 Violet 202 201 200 BlueViolet 179 178 177 Turquoise 65 64 63 Blue This chart lists all the Tokyo Bunka thread colors according to family groupings. The shades within each family are complimentary to each other; the numbers listed separately are distinct, individual colors that do not belong to any specific family. The letter "M" designates Metallic thread. 169 74 224 213 191 212 M120 M121 3 214 37 193 4 186 195 12 5 209 159 115 208 M124 39 114 32 61 40 231 219 108 M126 M128 182 233 19 20 77 35 230 87 187 49 21 57 66 38 M134 76 51 81 170 228 226 153 48 55 M118 98 154 184 106 78 229 220 196 M133 53 30 189 203 105 18 227 75 58 21 155 50 225 6 185 M132 27 232 218 M131 M111 80 84 M130 Yellow/Green 31 Yellow 207 Orange M119 Red 90 Black 74 224 73 Violet 202 201 200 BlueViolet 179 178 177 Turquoise 65 64 63 Blue This chart lists all the Tokyo Bunka thread colors according to family groupings. The shades within each family are complimentary to each other; the numbers listed separately are distinct, individual colors that do not belong to any specific family. The letter "M" designates Metallic thread. 169 191 212 213 M120 M121 3 214 37 193 4 186 195 12 5 209 159 115 208 M124 39 114 32 61 40 231 219 108 M126 M128 182 19 20 77 35 230 87 187 49 233 21 57 66 38 M134 76 51 81 170 228 226 153 48 55 M118 98 154 184 106 78 229 220 196 M133 53 30 189 203 105 18 227 75 58 21 155 50 27 225 6 185 232 218 M131 80 M132 M111 84 M130 Yellow/Green 31 Yellow 207 Orange M119 Red 90 Black 74 224 73 Violet 202 201 200 BlueViolet 179 178 177 Turquoise 65 64 63 Blue This chart lists all the Tokyo Bunka thread colors according to family groupings. The shades within each family are complimentary to each other; the numbers listed separately are distinct, individual colors that do not belong to any specific family. The letter "M" designates Metallic thread. 169 191 212 213 M120 M121 3 214 37 193 4 186 195 12 5 209 159 115 208 M124 39 114 32 61 40 231 219 108 M126 M128 182 19 20 77 35 230 87 187 49 233 21 57 66 38 M134 76 51 81 170 228 226 153 48 55 M118 98 154 184 106 78 229 220 196 M133 53 30 189 203 105 18 227 75 58 21 155 50 27 225 6 185 232 218 M131 80 M132 M111 84 M130 187 187 187 187 160 26 161 183 101 102 Blue Green 160 26 161 183 101 102 Blue Green M135 60 70 197 198 199 188 56 79 59 206 M116 54 210 204 7 8 9 52 103 104 M117 171 172 173 151 152 180 181 205 Green M135 60 70 197 198 199 188 56 79 59 206 M116 54 210 204 7 8 9 52 103 104 M117 171 172 173 151 152 180 181 205 Green Grey Brown Peach 89 22 1 White Beige 158 157 156 194 220 192 221 222 223 85 2 211 68 86 Pink 160 26 161 183 101 102 Blue Green M135 60 70 197 198 199 188 56 79 59 206 M116 54 210 204 7 8 9 52 103 104 M117 171 172 173 151 152 180 181 205 Green Pink Green Beige Blue Green White 33 34 36 Peach 175 176 M112 190 67 69 13 62 174 Brown 89 22 1 M129 16 17 11 29 109 10 23 24 82 88 M112 M127 Grey 33 34 36 160 26 161 183 101 102 175 176 M112 190 67 69 13 62 174 158 157 156 194 220 192 221 222 223 85 2 211 68 86 162 163 164 165 168 215 216 217 28 41 25 15 83 M122 71 72 107 166 167 44 47 14 45 43 46 42 M129 16 17 11 29 109 10 23 24 82 88 M112 M127 162 163 164 165 168 215 216 217 28 41 25 15 83 M122 71 72 107 166 167 44 47 14 45 43 46 42 M135 60 70 197 198 199 188 56 79 59 206 M116 54 210 204 7 8 9 52 103 104 M117 171 172 173 151 152 180 181 205 Grey Brown Peach Peach 33 34 36 Brown M129 16 17 11 29 109 10 23 24 82 88 M112 M127 Grey 33 34 36 162 163 164 165 168 215 216 217 28 41 25 15 83 M122 71 72 107 166 167 44 47 14 45 43 46 42 M129 16 17 11 29 109 10 23 24 82 88 M112 M127 162 163 164 165 168 215 216 217 28 41 25 15 83 M122 71 72 107 166 167 44 47 14 45 43 46 42 White Beige Pink Pink 89 22 1 Beige 175 176 M112 190 67 69 13 62 174 White 158 157 156 194 220 192 221 222 223 85 2 211 68 86 89 22 1 175 176 M112 190 67 69 13 62 174 158 157 156 194 220 192 221 222 223 85 2 211 68 86 188 188 188 188 ** 1ST EDITION ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1986 ** 1ST EDITION Karen Schilthuis The Creative Bunka Needle Inc. ** 2ND EDITION ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1992 ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1986 Karen Schilthuis The Creative Bunka Needle Inc. ** 2ND EDITION ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1992 Bunka With Flair 511 East Avenue West Hill, Ontario Canada, M1C 3K5 416-282-9257 Bunka With Flair 511 East Avenue West Hill, Ontario Canada, M1C 3K5 416-282-9257 189 ** 1ST EDITION ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1986 Karen Schilthuis The Creative Bunka Needle Inc. ** 2ND EDITION ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1992 Bunka With Flair 511 East Avenue West Hill, Ontario Canada, M1C 3K5 416-282-9257 189 ** 1ST EDITION ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1986 Karen Schilthuis The Creative Bunka Needle Inc. ** 2ND EDITION ** THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK ARE COPYRIGHTED : 1992 Bunka With Flair 511 East Avenue West Hill, Ontario Canada, M1C 3K5 416-282-9257 189 189 THIS BOOK BELONGS TO: THIS BOOK BELONGS TO: ADDRESS : ADDRESS : TELEPHONE : TELEPHONE : NOTES : NOTES : THIS BOOK BELONGS TO: THIS BOOK BELONGS TO: ADDRESS : ADDRESS : TELEPHONE : TELEPHONE : NOTES : NOTES :