Full English

Full English
Contents
Editors’ Letter
Sir Plus
Replicas from cinema, and Army surplus selections for the
season
Features
Observations by Kat Addis
The Eldrige courtesy of Black Lapel
Type Writers
Articles
Robert Elms
Photography
A Country Life
Cars
Watches- ties
Interview
Questions for Andy Barker and Paul Buckle
01
Issue 1
Editors’ Letter
Dear Readers,
Spring has begun, and good old England introduces the new year with chills and
grey skies, It has been an exciting year so far for 2013, We have plenty of prestigious
award ceremonies during the first few months of the year I choose to mention this,
partly due to chit chat in the office being mostly about silent D’s and Honest Abe’s,
and also because we have a feature on. Movies, have personal significance for everyone, I would imagine most of us have made at least one purchase, a certain leather
Jacket or 3 piece suit, a direct reference to a cult film which resonates with them.
Characters within movies provided us with discursive resources- weapons and
uniforms with which we use to base our own characters, from sporting a t shirt with
a still from your favourite scene, copying a haircut, buying that pair of Raybans after
watching Top Gun, we’ve all done it, or at least thought about it.
Movies shaped us, with music, together they made the rules of cool, a language of
trends and fashions were born and this language was spoken when it mattered, when
we were trying to send a message. Robert Elms speaks of his past in such a way, how
the
Businesses thrive on movie spin-offs, fashions can surely be carefully predicted and
orchestrated by those in charge of the mass media. I’m proud to announce In this issue we have interviews with Andrew Barker,
editor of Evening Standard magazine, who talks his career and tells us where he gets
buys his clothes. We also hear from Paul Buckle, Director of Rolled up Sleeves limited Paul is a buyer for a British outerwear brand and worked buying for John Lewis
he also teaches business at London College of Fashion. Also in this edition we take a
Dog walk in the Hampshire countryside and take some classic suits and cars out for a
spin.
Enjoy,
Alice Davidson,
Editor
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Features Palmela Handerson
Literature Katherine Addis
Interviews Archie Davis
Photography Ben Pender & Alice Davidson
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53
Sir Plus
“I love the smell of
napalm in the morning.”
US Vietnam era jungle boots 1965-1975,
Reporo’s by Clarks £69.99
7
Full English
Sir Plus - M42 PAratrooper Jacket
Paratroopers were WWII’s wild bunch. The entire concept of airborne infantry was completely new and had not been used extensively until WWII. The first country to experiment with paratroopers was the Soviet Union, crudely the Soviets would have
their paratroopers hang off of the wings of the airplane and
then let go when told to. This goes back to the whole wild aspect of parachuting. The American paratroopers had a very different origin. There was at first a test platoon of soldiers, all
volunteers, who experimented and fine-tuned American paratrooper
procedures and practices in 1942. The test platoon in turn would
become the very core and cadre of the 501st Airborne Infantry Regiment of the 101st Airborne Division. America’s airborne
units would go on to be the most elite and highly trained organizations of the war and would participate in every battle that
the United States fought in Europe. If these paratroopers were
so special and elite, do you think that they would have worn the
same uniforms and used the same equipment that everybody else
was using? The answer is no, quite the opposite.
Sir Plus
Item Of the Season, M42 Paratrooper
Jacket
Where to?
Full English rounds up top Army
Surplus stores in London
Notting Hill Gate
Army Classics
49 Pembridge Road W11 3HG
Camden Town
Camden Army Store
Chalk Farm Road NW1 8AF
Squadron HQ
121 Kentish Town Road NW1 8PB
Laurence Corner
7 Camden Lock Place NW1 8AF
Soul Ja
Chalk Farm Road NW1 8AH
Walworth Surplus Stores
211 Walworth Road SE17 1RL
Repro’s referencing the Paratrooper, not the belt at the waits and
two big front Pockets.
Polo Ralph Lauren Para-
Barbour Special
9
£99.99 Zara Men
Full English
Ray Ban Shooter 3138 £169, heels on
wheel hawaiian shirt £50 moon dog shirt
company. http://www.shivaheadshop.
co.uk/ white bucket hat benetton £8.50
Sir Plus
Canvas and leather satchel £235
Barbour, Authentic Raiders of
the Lost Ark Jacket, £169 By
Wested Leather UK, Coggles
Shirt £89 Buffalo Hat £49
Made in South Africa,
The recent releaseof Forties set Gangster Squad starring Ryan
Gosling and Josh Brolin, has set trends amongst gents everywhere, reminding us of more classically dressed times here are
some Forties style items worth a purchase
Shoes £200 Grenson Made
in UK, Watch By Hamilton £585, Hipflask £44
Pleasanceandharper,co,uk
Made in UK, Jacket £120
Topman
11
Country Living
For many a trouble
I have the same cure:
I take myself off
For a walk on the moor
If mildly upset
I stride without stopping
To gaze at the crag
Which is Roseberry Topping
If feeling quite down
With emotional pain
I march to the Fryups
Through Fairy Cross Plain
And once, in a fury,
In cold storms of hail
I covered some mileage
In Arkengarthdale
I haven’t done yet,
But I think that I will
March to the height
Of the pub at Tan Hill
Though I’m getting much calmer
Now reaching old age
And I might do a walk
Without feeling a rage
Grace Gant
Opposite Left Womens’ Black
Chelsea Boots, £75.00 ASH right
Brogues £90 DrMartens
This Page Jacket £85 Army Surplus
Portobello, inner jacket Barbour,
jeans Levis 501, shoes Dr Martens as
before
Opposite Jacket from Musto, Hat
Locke & Co, wellies Chameau Jeans
for all mankind, blazer Barbour
Full English
Precious Metal, Courtesy of Gq Magazine
Cormac MCcarthy
Masterpieces
The Road, Blodd Meridian, No Country For Old Men, All The Pretty
Horses, The Corossing, Cities of
the plain
From The Man Himself
‘I Think The computer user does
their thinking on the screen
and the
non-computer
user is compelled...to do a lot
more thinking in the head’
William Faulkner
Masterpieces
The Sound And The Fury, As I
Lay Dying, Light in August,
Absalom, Absalom!
From The Man Himself
“Work hurts mah back...Ah
think Ah’m goin’ to inven
soemthin’ like an ironin;
board so Ah can lie flat on
my back when Ah type
James Baldwin
Bruce Robinson
Masterpieces
Notes Of A NAtive Son, The Fire Next
Time, No name in the Street, The Devil
Finds Work, Go Tell It on the Mountain,
Giovanni’s Room
From The Man Himself
“I think the computer A funny thing happens on the way to the typewrite, . There
is a decidedly gravedanger of becoming a
celebrity, of beecoming a star, of becoming a personality”
Masterpieces
The Rum Diary, Withnail
aand I
From the Man Himself
“There are no books in a
bottle, but every time I sit
in front of the typewriter
there’s the voice going,’You
can’t wirte. You can’t
write.’ So you drink and
that voice might go away.
Mccarthy- Olivetti Lettera 32, Robinson IBM Scelectric, Faulkner Royal KHM
Remington,Baldwin Adler Office
18
Article
Robert Elms
Shortly after introducing himself, he
went on to reveal a disorder, he said he
has suffered since the age of around ten,
the day his older brother came home in a
tailored suit. Elms diagnoses himself with
Sartoria Nervosa - A compulsive disorder
for all things magnificently well dressed, is
how I interpreted this lighthearted comment. I admired his total sense of irony
and light heartedness as he spills stories
about the industry he has so heavily influenced, drops huge names such as Vivienne
Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, his
ex Girlfriend 80’s singer Sade left right
and centre. The writer, Editor of the Face
magazine - a British music, fashion and
culture monthly magazine from the 80s, as
well as having had a show on BBC Radio
London for over a decade. He is also now
doing what any man with such a long
outstanding commitment to the industry
stepped out of the fashion business should
be doing, and taking some holidays, now
Travel Editor of GQ Magazine, a travel
writer for the Sunday Times, Elms has the
right idea before retirement, out of the city
and reviewing luxury Holiday destinations
for a living, enviable, extremely dapper,
and likeable, Elms is certainly a true chap.
could remember about an occasion or a
party, a particular day gone by with his
entire outfit, head to toe. This seems to
be the way he remembers points of his
life, recalling certain shops and styles
at different ages as a teen, I hear about
his experiences -running from skin
heads in one of Vivienne Westwood’s’
first pairs of bondage trousers- for
those of you who remember the punk
era, you shall subsequently predict how
the situation panned out for him. Elms
partied with disco Kings and Queens
of the 80’s like Boy George, Spandau
Ballet, as well as the Punks, He owned
an original John Galliano shirt, and
still mingles with the likes of Paul
Smith.
The trousers, wide leg high
waisted inverted pleat - Really zoot
suit, with no break, showing brilliant
white socks, a signature look of his,
finished with a pair of black Russell
and bromley brogues. His suit jacket
was charcoal pinstriped to match the
pants -you want to call them pants on a
suit like this, it’s just a little too Bugsy
Malone not to- The lapels over exaggerated and a pocket square perfectly
To any passer-by Robert would
appear well dressed, ‘sharp’; his tailored
suit (from his friend Nick Tentis in Saville Row), He talks about his life long
passion for being well dressed, ‘I looked
great!’ I’ve heard him say several times,
tongue in cheek of course, this man has
aged gracefully and remains as nostalgic
and teary eyed bout his youth as the rest
of us. Clearly a visual and creative person
he mentioned the first thing he would or
19
Article
the clothing industry, the fashion for ‘Throw
away fashion” is upon us, I shudder and think of
polyester shirts- a little too see through, static to
one’s back. For most people, he points out, they
are dressed head to toe in high street brands. We
certainly both share the much-celebrated opinion
that buying British made clothing does well, and
there are so many beautiful Clothing companies
out there who make in the United Kingdom.
in place with a tie pin, the square and his tie
were both from Peckham and Rye, a favourite haunt, British tailors Peckham and Rye
have been established and making exquisite
menswear for over 200 years. For someone
who pays attention to detail, or just attention
to taste, the suit speaks volumes about his love
for dressing well. His history involves several
hairstyles, phases and movements, he speaks
of the British Mod and Punk era as if those
times truly were the best, and never to be
repeated.
I explained to Robert briefly the outline of this
magazine and asked his opinion on British
brands, he Timothy Everest first, (we at Full
English agree) Everest once said, “I felt like I
could introduce a new generation to the joys
of handmade clothing – investment pieces that
stood out and were built to last.” This statement certainly justifies my subjects’ passion for
beautifully crafted garments, and is a craft we
value and celebrate here at FE. Elms went on
to suggest “Peckham and Rye, that’s’ where I
got this tie from, they’re over in Covent Garden, made in England, fantastic silk bows and
ties, and Sunspel in Derby, I get my boxers
from Sunspel…”
Slightly negative about mass media and the
globalization of fashion, I identified with his
pessimism in this way, as the fundamental revolutions that sparked reasons for changes have
disappeared, due to several factors, the repercussions from the class system are history,
there is no trickle down system for trends and
fashions as there used to be, no desperate need
to stand out or be different, secondly trying to
stand out and be different in a world where
high street chain stores have monopolised
Elms’ latest book The Way We Wore A Life In Threads
available at Amazon
21
Full English
TEN Cerified Full English Shoe Stores
1. Horace Batten est. early 1800s
Bespoke box calf leather riding boots
are the Horace Batten bread and butter.
This manufacturer is now in the hands
of the 7th generation of the family, and
the work is so labour intensive that even
today less than 10 pairs a week are made.
7. New Balance est. 1982
Originally a Boston based arch support
company, New Balance started making
some of their trainers in England in 1982.
Today they make over 28,000 pairs a year
in their factory in Flimby, Cumbria.
8. Daisy Roots est.1995
Many of the workers at Daisy Roots have
joined from the ever-depleting shoe factories around Northampton and brought
with them a wealth of experience. Their
baby shoes are made from chrome and
formaldehyde free leather.
2. Grenson est. 1866
Best known for their brogues with a
Goodyear welted sole, this traditional
men’s English footwear company recently
paired up with Olivia Morris to make
some fine shoes for women too.
3. Loake est. 1880
Still a family owned business, and based
in Kettering, Northamptonshire. A handmade Loake shoe takes 8 weeks and 200
operations to make.
9. Carre Ducker est. 2004
Deborah Carre and John Ducker, who
met working for John Lobb, offer a bespoke shoe making service on the ground
floor of Gieves and Hawkes. Keen to
keep the fine art of British shoe-making
alive, they hold several intensive shoe
making courses throughout the year in
London.
4. Barkers est. 1880
Barkers produce over 200,000 pairs
of hand-lasted shoes a year from their
manufacturing unit in Earls Barton in
Northamptonshire.
10. Starchild Shoes est 2000
Starchild was founded by Janet Middleton, previously a fashion footwear designer, who started their company making
fun, soft leather shoes for babies from a
footwear factory in Leicestershire. They
have now expanded the range to include
larger children’s sizes and even soft leather shoes for adults.
Written by: Kate Hills at makeitbritish.co.uk
5. Joseph Cheaney & Sons est. 1886
Proudly state on their website that they
still hand construct every shoe they make,
from the cutting of the leather to the
final polishing. The Cheaney factory is in
Desborough in the county of Northamptonshire.
6. Celtic Sheepskin est. 1973
As revealed in a previous post , these
sheepskin boots were the original UGG
and are still handmade in Newquay in
Cornwall.
- See more at: http://makeitbritish.co.uk/
uk-manufacturing-2/english_shoe/#sthash.8e5VZ2gK.dpuf
22
Acessory
23
Full English
Full English Presents; The Eldridge Knot, a masterpiece, in
15 steps.
24
Interview
Andy Barker is current Editor of Evening Standrad Magazine,
-never really had one. Have learned
through observation and close analysis
of other publications.
What are your favourite shopping
haunts?
Sandro, reiss, zara(!), church’s, hackett
Streets? Marylebone High street, Redchurch street and Chiltern street
What era do you think produced the
most memorable styles?
The 1920’s
If you were an item of clothing, what
would you be?
Andy (left) with Maurice Mullen head of Fashion and
Luxury goods. His suit is by Rake, designed by Clive
Derby
-A pair of tortoise shell sunglasses
What do you consider to be the defining moment in your career?
-It wasn’t a moment but six months work
experience on the Observer working on their
magazines (they had five at the time) and
learning about features, ideas and photography.
What qualities do you look for in the people
you work with?
-Passion, talent, commitment. If you’ve got
two out of three you’ll do ok. If you’ve got all
three you’ll go far.
What is the best thing about what you do?
-The variety (and the glamorous bits aren’t
bad either)
And the worst?
-Working for a shrinking industry which impacts on budgets, salaries and staff numbers
which, in turn, affects quality
If I wasn’t doing this I’d…
-be teaching English in a school
What’s the best decision you’ve ever made?
-to apply to city university to do a journalism
masters
Who is your mentor?
What is your favourite film?
-too many...empire of the sun, a fish
called wanda, the mission
What is your most treasured possession?
-photographs, irreplaceable
If you could visit one destination in the
world, where would it be?
-angel falls in Venezuela
If you could live in the shoes of one person for a day, who would it be and what
would you do?
Churchill, read his diaries
What is your life philosophy?
- aim high, shoot higher
What would the title of your autobiography be?
- see above
25
The
MotorCar
Jim wears suit by Couch and Hoskins Tailors,
shirt by Thomas Pink and Tie by Hérmes.
wWli
W
Will Wears Suit My Marks & Spencer, shirt from
WW and Tie from a selection at rokit
Topman
Full English
38
Interview
Paul Buckle, Director of Rolled up Sleeves limited Paul is
a buyer for a British outerwear brand, worke d buying for
John Lewis and teaching business at London College of
Fashion.
What do you consider to be the defining
moment in your career?
Being sent on a week’s long Summer
School run by the Oxford Summer
School and winning a scholarship for best
pupil
What qualities do you look for in the people you work with?
Honesty, open minded and a ‘can do’
attitude
What is the best thing about what you do?
I love buying
And the worst?
Getting bogged down with ‘stuff ’ and
meetings that don’t decide anything!
If I wasn’t doing this I’d…
Be an architect or ski daddy
What’s the best decision you’ve ever made?
Tommy (you can tell my age)
Starting my own company
What is your most treasured possession?
Who is your mentor?
My hand made brogues
The fashion industry
If you could visit one destination in the
world, where would it be?
Which icon do you admire the most?
Johny Wilkinson, fantastic at what he did,
worked hard and so humble
Machu Picchu
What are your favourite shopping haunts?
If you could live in the shoes of one person
for a day, who would it be and what would
you do?
Small independent shops where shopping
is a pleasure
Ray Kelvin (creator and owner of Ted Baker)
– observe and listen
What era do you think produced the most
memorable styles?
What is your life philosophy?
The mod era
Enjoy today, you don’t know what’s going to
happen tomorrow
If you were an item of clothing, what
would you be?
An accessory to brighten up the outfit
What is your favourite film?
39
Full English
Prose
Three things that probably shouldn’t have
been written, because something else should
have been being written instead.
By Kat Addis.
Thing number 1
Awkward eye-contact with weird guy.
The oaky whiff of cigarette smoke curls into my room, instinctively I turn my head, upwards, out of the window. With a jerk of
all the muscles in my neck I see him leaning out into the courtyard, face pointed directly at mine, a stark, blank moment of
faces in direct opposition to one another through my white net
curtain. Charlie, the creepy grad student who looks at you like
you‘re naked and says “My God” in response to most things, with
a complete lack of surprise. I cannot tell whether he saw me see
him see me, although I am sure that he did. Interesting. My reaction to this moment is a rigid-necked concentration on my book
and an over-awareness of the muscles above my mouth, his is copious throat-clearing into the courtyard. This lasts, I cannot help
thinking, longer than the duration of a normal cigarette, but of
course I will not look to check, I will never look up again. I am
glad that I gave up smoking yesterday.
Thing number 2
Thought about silence as power.
The saddest thing is how often people seem to confuse silence for
power. I have done this a million times, and predictably, it has
never made me feel more powerful. I have something I want to say,
but by not saying it, I deprive you of it, which makes me more
powerful than you. Well it doesn’t, does it, it just leaves you
blissfully unaware of what‘s pissing me off. Why don’t we rage
like good old fashioned Vikings? We weren‘t always like this, we
were Boedicea, we were Joan of Arc before she got too religious,
we were Margery Kempe, inappropriately screaming at top volume in
a church. Lets say somebody isn’t giving you enough attention (often the case, I find) - ‘why aren’t you giving me enough attention?
I want it and it is part of the deal, i give you loads and loads,
stroke my hair goddamit if i want you to’ Just say it, its easier
for everyone. Or even better, you get a call, a reply from the man
you would like to have sex with preferably quite soon and it took
him days to call. DON’T let your subconscious wait 54 minutes be-
41
Full English
fore it allows you to reply even though you know exactly what
you want to say. NO. Just because we’ve spent the last two
thousand years being told to hold our tongue, that ‘we say it
best, when we say nothing at all’ (which has obvious flaws as
a statement Ronan), doesn’t mean that was ever, for a second,
the best thing to do. Unless of course you actually are in a
Church and its one of the quiet bits and you feel like telling
your neighbour that you can smell chorizo in his burps and its
going to make you vomit on the bible, in which case just exit
fast.
Thing number 3
Imaginary Agony Aunt Column
Cereal for dinner. Is that really ok?
Well yeah, obviously. And anyway its like sex with your
ex-partner, whether or not it’s ok, you’re going to do it. In
fact the two are remarkably similar in lots of ways. Inappropriate and ultimately a bit confusing, but at the same time
delightful and orgasmic and give-a-shit-y. I guess the crucial
difference is that when you have cereal for dinner you’re only
messing with your own emotions. But what the hell, just never
try and do them at the same time, that‘s gross.
But I wasn’t asking about having sex with my ex.
42
Acessory
Ben wears Army Surplus Bomber Jecket, and black boots from a
selection at Perretts; Army Surplus, cord trousers by Hackett
43
Full English
This Page shirt (left) Anes B, Suit Trousers Marks and Spencer. Leather jacket as before, khaki shirt from
Coggles.com. Opposite (top left) Organic Cotton Nelson Mandela Tie, (top right) Skinny from Topman
(bottom left and right) Ties from a selection at RND vintage London.
44
Accessory
45