Focus: Active ingredients 5/2015

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Focus: Active ingredients 5/2015
COS1505_01_Titel_COS1402_01_Titel_GB 27.04.15 06:45 Seite 1
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E 51 2 8 0
COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Marketing
The difference between
natural and organics, as
well as vegan cosmetics
Markets
India: Drivers of
growth in a
promising market
Ingredients
How to obtain
high levels of performance in formulations
Events
Cosmetic Business
2015 – A closer look
at the product launches
VIP of the Month
Harald van der Hoeven
from CLR about a
new ingredient which
transfers the idea of
probiotics to the world
of cosmetics
Focus: Active ingredients
5 / 2 015
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COS1505_Lubrizol_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.15 12:53 Seite 1
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COS1505_03_Edi_COS1409_03_Edi_GB 23.04.15 10:57 Seite 1
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EDITORIAL
Global skin
care trends
to watch
What are the latest developments concerning global
beauty sales? What are the most successful product
categories and where can we expect to see major
growth in the future? Euromonitor has just released
the latest data on beauty and personal care which are
pointing to concrete answers.
In 2014, the beauty industry remained largely resistant to strong economic and political headwinds, generating US $465 billion in sales. The 5 percent growth
can be attributed to staple products penetrating
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and more
emerging markets, consumers upgrading to more
superior products, and to consumers adopting
more extensive beauty routines across all product
segments.
Skin care in 2014 remained the largest segment
across most markets. Global sales are expected
to reach over $130 billion by 2019.
“Of all beauty segments, consumers continue to
spend most on skin care items at $15 per person
annually, compared to US$10 for hair care, and $7 for
colour cosmetics,” said Euromonitor International’s
Head of Beauty and Personal Care, Irina Barbalova.
“One third of global beauty revenues by 2019 will
come from skin care; compared to 23 percent
between 2009 and 2014.”
As the choice of products is getting more and more
diverse and, as innovative growth concepts are being
explored, the skin care market is, at present, going
through a transformation process. Technological developments have encouraged a demand for personalisation and unique product engagement; while Asia
continues to inspire innovation in terms of new
formats, textures and product benefits. By 2019, 80
percent of global skin care revenue will be generated
in Asia, with China set to account for 75 percent of
the total regional absolute growth. Indonesia and India will
be the next growth frontiers to watch, with Indonesia expected to enter the top 10 global skin care markets by
2019. You will find more details on the latest global beauty trends in the article by Ildiko Szalai from Euromonitor
on page 24.
Asia is currently, in terms of new product development,
a real trend setter that is providing new ideas for the rest
of the world. If you want to find out what the most prominent product trends in India are, you will find tangible
information in the article by Neha Nayak from Mintel on
page 28.
Source: Euromonitor
Sincerely yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
Follow us on:
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin
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COSSMA 5 I 2015
3
COS1505_04_Inhalt_COS1409_04_Inhalt_GB 27.04.15 06:50 Seite 4
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Contents
3
Editorial
쮿
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
쮿
FOCUS
10
Active ingredients
a Harald van der Hoeven, CLR Chemisches
Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter:
Accelerating skin renewal
14
14 I A marine ingredi-
Júlia Comas et al., Lipotec: Marine ingredient –
Improving eye contour appearance
18
ent that improves eye
contour appearance
20
a Belinda Pilmore, Institute of Personal
Care Science: Optimising formulations
Ute Doepner-Reichenbach, Diana Sexauer,
Heike Störmer-Kuk, SpringPool:
22
Higher success rate for innovations
Emmanuelle Moeglin, Mintel: International launches
쮿
MARKETING
24
Ildiko Szalai, Euromonitor:
Global beauty – Key growth-driving trends
20 I Higher
28
success rate for
R&D innovations
30
a Neha Nayak, Mintel:
India – A closer look at the growth opportunities
a Elfriede Dambacher, Naturkosmetik Konzepte:
Natural cosmetics – Exceeding the billion mark
32
Star of the Month:
Nail polish – Convenient gel nail effect
쮿
PRODUCTION
34
36
New Ingredients
Kurt Hoppen, Bluhm Systeme: Versatile labelling –
Laser coders combined with inkjet technology
38
Cosmopack 2015:
Innovative solutions for future product concepts
24
I The key
growth-driving trends
in global beauty
28 I India’s
personal care
market at a glance
40
a Cosmetic Business 2015:
Looking at creative new solutions
42
Market survey:
Processing, packaging and laboratory services
47
Packaging News
쮿
SERVICES
6
48
49
50
51
52
56
57
57
58
58
Download List
Essential Oils: Price List
30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH
Formulations: Natural cosmetics
Events Diary
Suppliers’ Guide
International B2B Exchange
Advertisers’ Index
Masthead Page
Trend statement by Peter Pierron, Biomaris
Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Kzww_shutterstock_225160504., Shutterstock.com
COS1505_Clariant_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.15 13:00 Seite 1
37 2014
www.cossma.com
Discover GlucoPure™
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Our ongoing search for sustainable solutions led us to GlucoPure™: innovative and
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Carbon Index of up to 95%.
VISIT US AT CESIO 2015 ISTANBUL
1–3 JUNE 15, HALIÇ CONGRESS CENTER, BOOTH 200
COS1505_06_Download 22.04.15 13:15 Seite 6
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers
www.cossma.com/download
COSSMA Download-Tip in May
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
photo: Alliance, Shutterstock.com
... explains why the French market for natural cosmetics
is special.
‘Free from claims’: Meaningful or Meaningless?
More and more consumers are looking for products which are free from certain ingredients. In order to meet consumer expectations in this regard, marketing divisions all over the world have jumped on the bandwagon and attached
a ‘free from’ label to
their products. How
should this trend be
viewed today, and
what developments
can be made out when
we look to the future?
COSSMA subscribers
can download further
background information.
Consumers are looking
for “free from” products
Top-Downloads for May
• Product Info:
… describes the future trends her agency has identified
for cosmetics.
PhytoCellTec™ nunatak®
(Mibelle)
• Sun Care Article:
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
Authors biographies
(BayerMaterialScience)
• Background:
RonaCare® Bronzyl™,
Colorona® Tangerine Orange
(Merck KGaA)
• Formulation:
Moisturizing Hair Mask (CLR)
... informs about the development of the German market
for personal care in 2014.
Downloads
… talks about the consumer trend towards multi-functional
products
6
COSSMA 5I 2015
Additional information at
www.cossma.com/download
or you can just scan
the QR code!
Your access codes
for May:
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Password: active
Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA
web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
www.cossma.com/download
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COS1505_08_People_COS0701_08_News_D 27.04.15 06:53 Seite 8
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NEWS
MARKETS + PROFILES
Bomo Trendline:
Timo Bösinger
Coty:
Elio Leoni Sceti
Dow:
Chad Holzer
People
Bomo Trendline I Timo
Bösinger has been appointed
Sales Manager at Bomo Trendline. He acquired his extensive expertise in international sales and
private label projects with international companies of the retail and
consumer goods industry.
Director of Dow Home, Institutional and Personal Care Solutions, a business unit of Dow
Consumer Care, the Dow Chemical Company. In his new role, he
manages a team of 400 employees across 12 manufacturing
and research and development
centers worldwide.
www.dow.com
www.bomo-trendline.de
Dow I Chad Holzer has been
appointed Global Business
Cosnova Beauty I Hilko
Prahl, 43, has joined the company’s management board as Chief
Dieter Bakic:
Markus Heberle
Kolb:
Uwe Halder
Sales Officer responsible for
Global Sales. Having joined the
company in July 2007 as Sales
Director Europe he developed
the European distribution
network and expansion for the
brands Catrice and Essence.
The management board he joins
comprises Chief Marketing
Officer Christina Oster-Daum,
Chief Operating Officer Mathias
Delor and Chief Corporate
Officer Javier González.
www.cosnova.com
Micro Powders:
Arvind Shah
Coty I Elio Leoni Sceti, 49,
will join Coty in July 2015 as
Chief Executive Officer responsible for overseeing the growth
of the company’s portfolio of
brands in the fragrances, color
cosmetics and skin and body
care categories. Bart Becht,
Coty’s current interim CEO
and Chairman, will remain Chairman following the transition.
Sceti has devised and executed
corporate strategies at consumer-oriented companies such
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REPRODUCIBLE FEEDING AND INDUCTION OF RAW MATERIALS
HOT/COLD
EMULSIFYING PROCESS AUTOMATED PRODUCTION PROCESSES
Robot-assisted measurements
of surface free energy for large samples
KRÜSS GmbH will be at the exhibition Achema introducing the public to the Large Surface
Analyzer – LSA, a positioning robot combined with the Mobile Surface Analyzer – MSA contact angle
measuring instrument. The system performs fast, fully automated surface free energy (SFE)
Because it is easy to operate and program, this robot-assisted, scientific surface analysis system is
particularly well suited to quality assurance applications on cleaned, pretreated or coated materials.
A STEP AHEAD
MIXING AND HOMOGENIZING
SOLUTIONS FOR EMULSIONS
AND SUSPENSIONS
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstraße 10
D-27572 Bremerhaven
CML 2000 EX
Fon: +49 (0)471 9840-10
Fax: +49 (0)471 9840-140
www.symex.de
8
COSSMA 5 I 2015
Winner
Business Award
Bremerhaven
The MSA, with its ability to take measurements in less than one second, is
the fastest mobile instrument on the
market for determining surface free
energy with two test liquids. It does
this by means of a non-contact pressure dosing system that places two
drops on the sample, followed by an
automatic image analysis of each
drop including contact angle measurement and SFE calculation. With
our Large Surface Analyzer – LSA,
these features are enhanced by
quickly and precisely positioning the
instrument between measurements.
Fully automated wetting analysis for large samples:
new Large Surface Analyzer – LSA presented at the
exhibition Achema
The Large Surface Analyzer – LSA,
which KRÜSS will present at the
exhibition Achema, has one vertical
and two horizontal axes and is
designed to handle sample sizes of 495 × 565 mm. A second standard model allows operators to position the instrument as desired on a surface of 2900 × 3150 mm. Upon request, customized systems in
other sizes are possible. KRÜSS will be demonstrating the system to any interested visitors at
booth F77, hall 4.1.
About KRÜSS GmbH
Advancing your Surface Science. As specialists in interfacial chemistry and the world’s leading supplier of measuring instruments for surface and interfacial tension, we not only provide high quality
product solutions - our offer is a combination of technology and scientific consulting. These include
seminars, technical service, our Customer Support Lab and our Surface Science Center for professional measurement services. Our exclusive distribution network and our subsidiaries in Hamburg, the
US, Great Britain and France allow us to provide fast, flexible support for R&D labs and in quality control throughout the world. Our expertise, precision and passion have already convinced many prestigious companies in countless industries.
Further Information: KRÜSS GmbH
Borsteler Chaussee 85 | 22453 Hamburg, Germany
Phone. +49 40 514401-0 | [email protected] | www.kruss.de
COS1505_08_People_COS0701_08_News_D 27.04.15 06:53 Seite 9
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,/6/9Ê
as EMI Music and Iglo. He has
also worked for P&G and for
16 years in various roles at
Reckitt Benckiser.
www.coty.com
Tensachem in Belgium. Previously he held several positions
in the chemical industry, such as
BASF, DyStar, CHT/BEZEMA,
and Archroma.
-Ê 9Ê
-
www.kolb.ch
Dieter Bakic I Markus
Heberle joined Dieter Bakic as
Sales Manager responsible for
Germany, Austria and Switzerland. Prior to this he worked as
sales representative for Gaplast
and Louvrette with the same
regional responsibilities.
www.bakic.com
Kolb IUwe Halder is Kolb’s
new CEO and also the CEO of
Micro Powders I Arvind
Shah who previously worked for
Revlon, P&G, and Avon, and
who holds 12 patents and was
the recipient of Avon’s Chairman
Award has been appointed as
Senior Chemist of the Personal
Care Division at Micro Powders,
supplier of specialty micronized
wax additives.
www.micropowders.com
BSB award winners 2015
BSB Cosmetic I In Barcelona on April 14th during this
year’s In-Cosmetics the BSB European Innovations Prize for
cosmetics, natural products and their chemical ingredients*
was awarded this year for the 13th time. The first prize for the
most innovative finished product in cosmetics 2015 went to
Henkel’s Magic Oil.
In the “most innovative raw material for cosmetics – naturals/actives” category, the winner was Perfection Peptide P7
from Mibelle Biochemistry.
The first prize in the “most innovative raw materials – functionals and recipients for cosmetics” category was shared this
year between two winners: Oat lipid e from Oat Cosmetics
and Niodor from Prolabin & Tefarm.
In the “natural products – raw materials” section the first prize
went to Rahn’s Fossil Peeling Powder. In the “natural finished products” category the award went to Annemarie
Börlind’s Beautypearls.
This year the judging panel for raw materials included: Dr.
Alfred Markowetz from Procter & Gamble, Dr. Daniel Stangl
from La Prairie, Dr. Bernhard Irrgang from Mibelle Group,
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart from Kneipp, Dirk Hentrich from Henkel
and Dr. Matthias Hauser from Johnson & Johnson.
For finished products the jury panel was made up of Angelika
Meiss from COSSMA, Dr. Joachim Degwert from SIT,
Barbara Obermayer from Rahn, Birgit Haemel from Protec
Ingredia, Bettina Jackwerth from BASF and Dr. Marielle le
Maire from Symrise.
photo: Angelika Meiss
*The prize was set up in 2003 by the Dr. Riedel BSB consultancy and service bureau.
This year’s prizewinners with Dr. Jan-H. Riedel (left): Guylaine Le
Loarer from Börlind, Barbara Obermayer from Rahn, Beata Hurst
from Mibelle, Margarita Lapena from Henkel, James Daybell from
Oak Cosmetics and Michele Sisani from Prolabin & Tefarm
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COS1505_10_CLR_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 06:56 Seite 10
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FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Probiotics translated into skin care
Accelerating
skin renewal
ported to be up to 50% slower in people over 80. The effectiveness of the differentiation process is reduced as well,
which means that the production of
key elements in the skin’s barrier function and quality is impaired. Additionally, ageing leads to a loss of so-called
immunocompetence in the epidermis.
Helping the skin to maintain
its barrier function
photos: CLR
The beneficial
effects of probiotic bacteria
transferred to
cosmetic skin
care
The new ingredient ProRenew Complex CLR has transferred the
ability of probiotics to support the body’s immune system to
cosmetic skin care. As the results of in vitro and in vivo studies
confirm, it boosts the skin’s renewal processes making them
quicker and functioning more effectively.
W
hile most anti-ageing
products promise to fight
signs of ageing and turn
back time, especially anti-ageing skin
care, users over the age of 50 are reported to be perfectly comfortable with
their age. As they don’t feel old, they
are not particularly compelled to look
younger, but instead to look the best
they can. And that means, above all, to
look as healthy as possible. Healthylooking skin is closely related to the actual main purpose of our skin, which is
to function as a physical barrier between our body and the harmful outside world. Being our skin’s top layer,
10
COSSMA 5 I 2015
the epidermis is responsible for maintaining this function.
Ageing has a significant impact on
the renewal processes in the epidermis. The proliferation rate of the keratinocytes in the basal layer becomes
progressively less effective and is re-
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Additional information can be found
at www.cossma.com/qr00009
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for May:
User name: cossma5
Password: active
To safeguard the skin’s ability to
maintain its barrier function, the epidermis can, and must, act as a “biosensor.” Challenges, such as a fluctuation
in environmental humidity or sunlight,
etc., can actually be “perceived” by the
differentiating keratinocytes, which are
able to instantly react and compensate
for the negative influence of challenges
on the skin’s quality. At the base of this
characteristic lies the ability of the differentiating keratinocytes to react immunologically. As the skin’s renewal
process loses its effectiveness and, as
its immunocompetence decreases,
aged skin looks less healthy. Therefore
supplying modern-day consumers with
satisfactory anti-ageing skincare products becomes an essential target.
To address these needs, CLR has
developed ProRenew Complex CLR
(INCI name: Lactococcus Ferment
Lysate), based on a lysate of Lactococcus lactis. This probiotic lactic acidproducing bacterium is grown under
specific conditions, after which the obtained cells are lyzed – a process involving the killing and destruction of
the bacterial cells. Probiotic bacteria
are well-known for their health-related
benefits in the gut. With this active ingredient, which essentially contains
the cell debris of the probiotic bacteria, these characteristics were successfully translated to cosmetic skin care. It
has been shown to strengthen the immune system of the skin cells and to
stimulate the skin’s self-renewal.
쑺
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FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Fig. 1: Acceleration of skin renewal
Elaborate in vitro studies have
shown that this active ingredient was
able to increase the expression of
genes of a wide range of enzymes and
proteins, all of which are important for
the quality of the skin. This was further
confirmed by histological analyses of
epidermal skin models grown under its
influence. In these studies it was
shown that the speed of growth and
the barrier function of the epidermal
skin models (when treated with ProRe-
Fig. 2: Stimulation of barrier recovery
ing skin in its renewal processes, an in
vivo study was conducted, where both
the speed and the quality of the skin’s
renewal processes were assessed. In
this study, test products were applied
on designated skin areas on the inner
forearm of 5 female volunteers (47–63
years old) for 2 weeks, twice daily. After
that, tape stripping was performed to
remove stratum corneum and induce
skin damage. The application was then
continued twice daily for another
What do consumers expect from modern anti-ageing skin care?
Modern-day users of anti-ageing skin care products predominantly desire the the skin’s ageing process to be as slow as possible, as well as maintaining healthily functioning and looking skin.
Nowadays, the fact that skin ages, is something which is considered to be a fact of life, but
also something which you can take a preventive approach against. Supporting our skin cells
with active cosmetic ingredients to improve their functionality is essential to this.
new Complex CLR) were clearly better
than control. The product was additionally shown to strongly boost the
production of both cathelicidin and
β-Defensin-1. The use of ECIS (Electric
Cell-substrate Impedance Sensing)
showed that the active ingredient was
able to increase cell cohesion. In this
study the observed activity was both
remarkably quick and very sustainable.
Altogether, the results obtained in the
in vitro studies clearly demonstrated
its ability to both accelerate skin renewal and improve the quality of the
skin’s renewal process.
In vivo tests confirm skin’s
renewal process
In order to further prove that the active ingredient is able to support age12
COSSMA 5 I 2015
4 days. Skin renewal and barrier recovery were determined by measuring
stratum corneum thickness and TEWL
(transepidermal water loss) at different
time points after tape stripping.
By measuring the thickness of the
stratum corneum 1 hour, 2 days and
4 days after tape stripping, it was
clearly shown that the skin treated with
the active ingredient showed a significantly accelerated renewal of stratum
corneum compared to the skin treated
with placebo (see Fig. 1). The distinct
indications, which were obtained in
the in vitro studies, were confirmed in
this in vivo study.
Accelerating the skin renewal
process in ageing skin is a topic which
strongly resonates in the marketing
and advertising of anti-ageing skin care
products. “Speed” should be accompanied by “quality,” though. The skin
treated with the new active ingredient
also clearly showed an increased rate
in recovery of a healthy barrier function
of the skin (see Fig. 2).
Probiotics for skin care
Probiotics are renowned for their
ability to support our body’s immune
system. With the new ingredient
ProRenew Complex CLR, this characteristic was translated to cosmetic
skin care, boosting the skin’s renewal
processes, accelerating it as well as improving its quality. This was shown
both in in vitro and in vivo studies
(from the gene level to the protein and
enzyme level) and by making use of
ECIS to monitor cell cohesion. In the in
vivo studies the results obtained in the
in vitro studies were demonstrated
with extraordinary clarity. After removing the stratum corneum by tape stripping, renewal of the skin and the recovery of its barrier function were shown
to be accelerated with the help of the
new active ingredient. It thus improves
the health-related functioning of our
skin and satisfies the main demands of
the modern-day anti-ageing skincare
user.
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Harald van der Hoeven
Director Technical Marketing
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter, Berlin, Germany
[email protected]
www.clr-berlin.com
COS1505_RPC_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.15 13:03 Seite 1
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THE BEAUTY OF PACKAGING
Innovative packaging plays a critical role in maximising
brand image and positioning. Style, convenience and
functionality are key benefits that help to deliver consumer satisfaction and loyalty. And they are major criteria in
the design of every one of our pack solutions.
Our latest designs in Airless Dispensing Systems, Deosticks, Cream Jars and new Application Systems have been
created to add value to your brand and enhance its image.
And in today’s world, where resources are precious,
sustainability is also a vital consideration from the outset
in all our new product development. With every purchase,
consumers place their trust in your brand.
Trust RPC Bramlage to help ensure
their faith is justified.
RPC Bramlage GmbH · Brägeler Straße 70 · D-49393 Lohne · Germany · Telephone +49 (0) 4442 881- 0 · Telefax +49 (0) 4442 881-240
www.rpc-bramlage.de · E-Mail: [email protected]
COS1505_14_Lipotec_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 07:01 Seite 14
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FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Marine ingredient
Improving eye contour
appearance
O
ne of the first places where ageing and fatigue signs start to appear is in the eye area. Characterised by very delicate thin skin, the
eye contour easily comes to be affected
by several internal and external factors. In spite of featuring beauty, health
and personality traits, the eyes also
easily reflect unwanted signs such as
ageing or fatigue. As due to continuous
facial expressions the eyes are in constant activity, wrinkles, bags under the
eyes and dark circles start to appear
as signs of premature ageing.
Bags under the eyes and dark circles
are the main result when the blood and
lymph microcirculation deteriorates.1
Wrinkles, on the other hand, are mostly due to a decrease and damage of the
matrix proteins.2,3
14
COSSMA 5 I 2015
With age, blood vessels become
more permeable and fragile and the
lymphatic drainage system deteriorates, resulting in blood leakage and
liquid retention under the eyes.4 These
accumulated red blood cells are rich in
haemoglobin, which gets further degraded into bilirubin, a more orangeyellow by-product. The build-up of
bilirubin gives rise to the visible shadowing in the infraorbital eyelids. Another factor that worsens the appearance of bags under the eyes and dark
circles is when the proteins supporting
the skin deteriorate. Consequently the
skin under the eyes starts to sag because its firmness decreases, and the
accumulation of liquids makes it puffy.
Wrinkles under or around the outer
corner of the eye emerge, commonly
known as crow’s feet, when skin-supporting proteins such as collagen and
elastin decrease or are damaged. In addition, protein glycation and oxidative
damage lead to the formation of
protein aggregates causing these components to lose their functionality.
Once advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) start forming, the altered
structure of proteins results in dysfunction. Luminosity in the eye area also decreases as a result of decreased
and damaged collagen unable to reflect the penetrating white light back
toward the surface of the skin.5
photos: Lipotec
Multifunctional active ingredient against undesirable
effects around the eyes
photo: Malyugin,Shutterstock.com
Lipotec has developed a new multifunctional marine ingredient
designed to preserve the area around the eyes and to weaken
undesirable effects such as bags under the eyes, dark circles and
wrinkles. These effects have been demonstrated with the help of
a number of in vitro as well as in vivo studies.
Multifunctional
plankton extract
Lipotec’s Eyedeline* marine ingredient (INCI name: Plankton Extract)
has been designed with a view to complete care for the eye contour. This
multifunctional active ingredient can
counteract undesirable developments
around the eyes. It has been shown to
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reduce the main signs of ageing, as it
ameliorates vascular permeability, degrades bilirubin, and improves the
extracellular matrix.
Decrease in vascular
permeability
A semi-permeable vascular barrier
was formed from the growth of human
umbilical vein endothelial cells on top
of a porous membrane. The cells were
then incubated for 24 hours with the
medium alone (as a control) and with
1 µg/mL of the plankton extract.
By measuring the levels of a fluorescent molecule, vascular permeability
was investigated in the two specimens.
It was found to decrease by 20.8% when
treated with the active ingredient.
Digital photographs of a
volunteer before and at
the end of the treatment
쑺
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FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Digital photographs of a volunteer’s eyebags at different times of treatment
The marine ingredient also increased bilirubin degradation, which
consequently reduced eye shadowing.
The test was performed for 24 hours
with a mixture of 10 mg/mL of the active and 0.01% conjugated bilirubin in
a test tube. With the help of high-performance liquid chromatography it
was shown that 19.4% of the amount of
bilirubin was reduced, which would
correspond to a considerable decrease
in eye circle pigmentation.
Increase and improvement
of skin support proteins
Human dermal fibroblasts from
adults were treated with 1 or 5 µg/mL
active ingredient for 48 hours, and
by means of an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay the concentration
of type I collagen was determined.
A significant increase of 61.8% in collagen I levels was observed for the
5 µg/mL active ingredient.
Neonatal human dermal fibroblasts
were incubated for 48 hours with 0.1 or
1.0 µg/mL active ingredient and the
levels of elastin produced by the fibroblasts were quantified using a dyebinding method. At the highest tested
dose, the active ingredient increased
the levels of elastin by 51.6%.
Changes in roughness at the end of the treatment
16
COSSMA 5 I 2015
The glycation of collagen was induced with an incubation of 0.2 M
glucose and 0.6% collagen for 3 days
at 60ºC. This was done both with and
without the active ingredient at different concentrations. Finally the formation of AGEs was evaluated using an
enzyme immunoassay. The study
proved that at 100 µg/mL the active ingredient is able to reduce glycation of
collagen by 29.7%, showing that the
new marine ingredient is effective in
preventing ageing.
Reducing dark circles
Twenty-one female subjects between the age of 22 and 65 who had
dark circles applied a placebo cream
and a cream containing 1% of a solution with the new plankton extract
twice a day for 28 days. High resolution
photographs were used to evaluate the
intensity of dark coloration on the infraorbital eyelids.
The treatment containing 1% of a
solution of the active ingredient was
35.7% more effective than the placebo,
so that the vascular component of dark
circles was reduced by 11.5%.
Decrease in bags
under the eyes
A placebo and a cream with 4%
of a solution with the marine ingredient were applied to the eye contour
of twenty female subjects who had
bags under their eyes and who were
between 41 and 66 years old.
Fringe projection was used to evaluate the volume of the puffiness under
the eyes.
After 14 days of treatment, a significant decrease of the bags under
the eyes was observed, and a more
pronounced difference was seen after
28 days when the eye puffiness had
decreased by 8.2%.
Reduction in roughness
of wrinkles
Eighteen female subjects between
the age of 40 and 54 applied a placebo
cream on one eye and a cream with 2%
of a solution with the new plankton extract on the other eye, twice a day for
14 days. Topometry of crow’s feet wrinkles was measured with the help of
fringe projection in order to obtain values for the average roughness (Ra),
mean wrinkle depth (Rz) and maximum
wrinkle depth (Rt).
After 14 days, the treatment containing the active ingredient showed
that the roughness had improved and
that crow’s feet wrinkles had been
smoothed out.
Multifunctional ingredient
improving the eye contour
In vitro studies showed that the vascular permeability and bilirubin accumulation point were reduced, pointing
to an anti-shadowing and puffiness
effect of the new marine ingredient. In
addition to helping reduce the phenomenon of bags under the eyes and
dark circles in volunteers, it also provided an anti-wrinkle effect through
improvement of the extracellular
matrix.
Thanks to these multiple benefits,
this active ingredient could be considered to be a multifunctional ingredient
responsible for a better and younger
appearance of the eye contour.
*Lipotec’s Eyedeline is owned by Lubrizol
The reference list can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Júlia Comas
Product Specialist
Cristina Davi, Elena Cañadas
Albert Soley, Raquel Delgado
Lipotec, Gavà, Spain
[email protected]
www.lipotec.com
COS1505_Sabinsa_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.15 13:04 Seite 1
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FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Optimising formulations
How to obtain high
performance
If a product containing vitamin C
has a beige to
brown appearance,
it won’t provide the
expected benefits
When a product doesn’t work the way it is expected to, there are 3 main
reasons why. Belinda Pilmore from the Institute of Personal Care Science,
Australia, takes a look at some fundamental elements to improve the
performance of personal care products.
O
ne reason why the product does
not perform the way it is expected to can be formulation incompatibilities.
There are some materials which
can’t be used in the presence of other
materials if you want to get good results. There are even more materials
which are active over only a very specific (and sometimes narrow) pH range.
When materials are in an incompatible
environment, they will degrade and/or
lose their bioavailability. Bioavailability is a measure of how much of the substance present is available for potential uptake or absorption. For example,
100% bioavailable means all that is
present is available for uptake or absorption, while a measure of 50%
bioavailability means that only half of
the substance present in the product
is available for uptake or absorption.
Where there is only 50% bioavailability,
a substance just wouldn’t work to its
full potential. Here are a couple of ex-
18
COSSMA 5 I 2015
amples that show this phenomenon in
commercially available products:
• Vitamin C is undoubtedly one of the
most difficult substances to formulate
with a view to achieving good long
term stability. This is especially true
when it comes in the form of ascorbic
acid, as this is the least stable form of
vitamin C. Ascorbic acid needs a relatively acidic environment to be stable
(pH of 3.5–4.0) and deteriorates quickly in the presence of water and/or light.
Other forms, for example magnesium
(or sodium) ascorbyl phosphate require a pH of 6.0–7.0 to give the best
bio-activity and shelf life.
There are an increasingly growing
number of vitamin C forms and derivatives becoming available, all with different formulating and stability needs.
If, however, a product looks something
like beige to brown, then the vitamin C
has deteriorated and won’t provide
the benefits that could normally be
expected.
be stable and bioavailable – at more
acidic pH levels or in its derivative form
(retinyl palmitate), the anticipated results cannot be obtained. In addition,
some regulations (e.g. in Australia)
limit retinol in cosmetic products*
to a maximum of 1%.
• Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) reacts with
amines, peptides and amino acids
of the stratum corneum to produce
brown polymers called melanoidins. It
will also react with any compounds
containing collagen, proteins or nitrogen that are present in a finished product formulation. Its efficacy is also affected in the presence of anionic surfactants. Yet in many formulas it is
combined with the wrong surfactants
or emulsifiers and with collagen or
proteins present. So for a convincing
tanning product these ingredients
have to be avoided.
• Alpha hydroxy acids** (AHAs) such
as glycolic acid and lactic acid require
a pH below 3.85 to be 50% bioavailable. Finished products containing
these ingredients with a pH of 3.0–3.5
will tend to work the best; while those
with a pH > 4.0 will have lost most of
their bioavailability and efficacy.
photo: Photopixel, Shutterstock.com
photo: Mikhail Rulkov, Shutterstock.com
• Vitamin A requires a pH of 6.0–7.0 to
For a convincing
tanning product
DHA should not
be combined
with anionic
surfactants
COS1505_18_Pilmore_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 07:08 Seite 19
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
acid) require a pH below 3.0 to be 50%
bioavailable. Rarely will there be a
commercially available cosmetic product with a pH this low, but those with
a pH > 4.0 will have lost most of the
benefits of using this material in the
formulation.
Products that market a combination of materials requiring a high pH
(e.g. retinol) and those requiring a low
pH (e.g. beta hydroxy acids) should be
avoided. Only one of these materials at
best could be efficacious; or really inept formulation techniques, yielding a
product marketed to have a skin-compatible pH (around 5.5), would mean
neither of these are bioavailable in
proportions suitable to be effective.
The exact compatibility requirements of the many hundreds of active
ingredients available can vary considerably. So the bioavailability of the
substances used in the products needs
to be checked to ensure that it has
been formulated to achieve the best
possible performance.
Incorrect use or poor
marketing
Another reason for a poor performance is the incorrect use of active ingredients and/or marketing. While formulation incompatibilities are the
most common issue impacting efficacy, there are also products that simply
don’t contain enough of an active to
provide the results promised and/or
don’t have the capacity to deliver them
in the required amount to the desired
destination. Active ingredients can only perform in the way intended when
the formulation has been designed to
ensure their stability and bioavailability AND enough of the active is present
in each application. The number of applications per day or per week is crucial
along with the form of the product, to
ensure good delivery of the active ingredient or ingredients to the required
layer of the epidermis. However this
does not necessarily mean that very
small amounts of a substance cannot
be effective. Peptides, for example, only need to be present in the order of
parts per million (ppm) to provide outstanding results – so the position of an
active in an ingredient list can be deceptive. What is more important is to
be sure that the product has been formulated to deliver the actives present
to the intended point, and contains an
efficacious amount of the active as
proven in clinical trials when similarly
used. Details of the tests matter – such
as the number of participants in the trial, how often the product has been
applied and whether the active was
present in a similar form of product in
the same amount.
Unrealistic expectations
Another reason for a poor product
performance can simply boil down to
unrealistic expectations. Sometimes
consumers just expect far too much
from a cosmetic product. Cosmetics
are supposed to be designed for topical application to provide a transient
change to the appearance of the skin.
They should not promise to provide
long term physiological changes to the
skin’s structure or the way it works. For
example, skin-whitening ingredients
can use one or more methods to inhibit melanin production, and assuming
the product has been formulated with
compatibility, bioavailability and using
the clinically proven amounts of active
ingredient, it still will not perform as
expected if:
• the product is not used regularly by
the consumer in accordance with the
instructions
In Australian cosmetic
products retinol is limited to 1% whereas there
is no EU restriction
on retinol
photo: Foxterrier, Shutterstock.com
• Beta hydroxy acids (e.g. salicylic
FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
• the consumer undergoes considerable UV exposure and/or
• the consumer is expecting to become whiter than the day they were
born.
Genetics, lifestyle and hormones
can prevent a cosmetic product from
ever working the way it was intended or
has promised; and the consumer looking for a miracle in a jar is bound to end
up disappointed. So any promise of results should be cautious, as people
looking for a miracle are unlikely to be
satisfied no matter how good the product really is. This can also happen
where marketing claims and over-ambitious photo-shopping in advertisements exceed what a typical consumer
can hope to achieve from regular use of
a product.
*There is no EU restriction on retinol
**In the EU, glycolic acid and lactic acid
(alpha hydroxyl acids) have no restrictions listed
***In the EU, salicylic acid is restricted to 2% in leave-on
products as an active ingredient and must not be used
in products for children under the age of 3 years;
as a preservative it is limited to 0.5% input
Belinda Pilmore
Director, Institute of Personal
Care Science
Coolum Beach, Australia
[email protected]
com.au
www.personalcarescience.com.au
COS1505_20_Springpool_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 07:10 Seite 20
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FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Higher success rate for innovations
Inspire with R&D
marketing
A successful
product concept
requires a deep
understanding
of consumers
enough for the consumer. So what has
to be done in order to translate a rationally oriented R&D outcome into
an emotionally appealing consumer
product?
A new product is being launched –
new and surprising benefits are
claimed, with interesting advertising
messages linking these benefits to a
certain ingredient. You may then think:
“We have an ingredient in our portfolio
Prämierte
Wirkstoffe
Know How
Natürlich:
AQUASILOIL
Wasserlösliche Öle
Wirkungsvoll:
SILDINE®
Gegen Rötungen
Vasokonstriktor aus der
Purpur Rotalge.
www.greentechgmbh.de
Nachhaltigkeit
DANDRILYS®
Anti Schuppen
Innovationspreis von
Frost & Sullivan.
R
esearch and development is
practiced extensively in B2B as
well as in B2C businesses: it is
about technologies, materials, formulations, performance, claim substantiation, and statistics. Research is a
fact-based discipline, which generates
measurable innovations.
However, the success of a new technology or new ingredient also depends
on whether the realization is attractive
Patente
Preisgekrönt:
photo: Konstantin Yuganov, Shutterstock.com
Knowing socio-cultural trends well, helps forecast what product
needs will arise from changing habits. Only relevant new products
can turn an innovation into a real success. The managing directors
from SpringPool describe what role R&D marketing plays in all of this.
COS1505_20_Springpool_COS1409_10_Van_Hoeven_GB 27.04.15 07:15 Seite 21
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photo: Candy Box, Shutterstock.com
Consumers asked about their
wishes mostly list the existing
offerings already on the shelves
that would fit the bill, too”. But instead
of your company hitting a mark with
consumers, it’s the competition who
does it.
Before the consumer product
comes into play, you have to convince
both internal and external clients of
your development. Clients in this case
can be manufacturers of fast moving
consumer goods (FMCG) or your own
brand management colleagues.
Do these clients realize the full potential of the new development, as well
as the wide range of its applications?
Do they really understand the consumer needs that can be met with your
technology?
From test tube to consumer
The new discipline of research marketing already takes the consumer into
account in an early and rather rationalminded stage. Simply put, potential
consumer products should be taken into consideration as early as possible:
Which product benefits does the development achieve? How can the benefits
be expressed in an emotionally appealing way?
It is crucial to inspire internal and
external clients with innovative product ideas that illustrate the business
potential. Product ideas should be
showcased with
• target group descriptions bringing
authentic personalities to life
• product benefits that trigger a “must
have”-feeling
• visualised explanations of how the
ingredient works.
This verbal description of an idea is
called a product concept. A good concept delivers innovative product promises, and it inspires you emotionally as
well as intellectually. Usually, R&D
marketing projects translate a technology or ingredient into a couple of different product concepts. They may vary
in target group and benefit.
A successful product concept requires more than know-how about
technology and its potential. It also requires a deep understanding of consumers. If you ask consumers about
their wishes, they list the existing offerings that are already on the shelf. If you
want to successfully position an innovative technology, you should be able
to anticipate the needs of tomorrow
and beyond.
Socio-cultural trends lead to
ideas relevant for the future
To understand the consumer of tomorrow, you have to be aware of sociocultural trends. Knowing them helps
forecast changes in consumer habits
and show how attitudes are evolving.
Attitudes change habits and changed
habits lead to new product needs.
Working with trends is absolutely
essential in the early innovation stages
– e.g. using trends to define the R&D
search fields of the future. Thus, it is
consumer relevance that substantially
increases the success probability of
innovations.
Basic principles of a concept
Insight:
Benefit:
consumer need or wish
description of the product
properties fulfilling their
respective need
Reason-tobelieve:
technology or ingredient asa
proof of product benefit
Ute Doepner-Reichenbach, Diana Sexauer,
Heike Störmer-Kuk, Managing Directors
(from left to right), SpringPool, Dreieich, Germany
[email protected], www.springpool.de
COS1505_22_Mintel_COS1409_18_Mintel_D 27.04.15 07:19 Seite 22
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FOCUS: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
International launches
photos: Mintel
This month Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance and Colour
Cosmetics Analyst at Mintel, presents a selection of personal care
products with innovative active ingredients.
T
he Elizabeth Arden RX range includes Triple Protection Factor
Elizabeth Arden‘s sunscreen
lotion offers the benefits
of three products in one
Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF
50+ Lotion with DNA Enzyme Complex
Jeju‘s facial
cream is formulated with
horse oil from
Jeju Island
Bio Essence’s
nourishing and
whitening cream
is made with
bird’s nest
AmorePacific‘s concentrated serum is enriched
with skin barrier enhancing natural hyaluronic acid
Clarins‘ anti-wrinkle
lightweight eye care
concentrate is based
on age-fighting
plant extracts
Shiseido‘s multifunctional serum designed for
creating glowing skin
22
COSSMA 5 I 2015
and antioxidants, which offer the benefits of three products in one by protecting against the negative effects of
photo-damage and environmental exposure, as well as delaying the visible
signs of ageing. The product recommended by the Skin Cancer Foundation
includes broad spectrum SPF 50+ with
titanium dioxide and zinc oxide; Antioxidant Complex; arazine; dipeptide
antioxidant L-carnosine; amino acid
antioxidant L-ergothioneine; DNA Enzyme Complex; photolyase; the enzyme endonuclease; and 8-oxoguanine
glycosylase.
The anti-wrinkle Jeju Horse Oil
Cream for the face is formulated with
18% horse oil (horse fat), from Jeju Island, that moisturizes the skin. It also
features oxygenated water; camellia
extract; canola honey; and lemon extract, rich in vitamin C (all from Jeju
Island).
The non-greasy, nourishing BioEssence Bird’s Nest Nutri-Collagen &
Whitening Cream is made with bird’s
nest, is rich in skin smoothing water
soluble proteins, carbohydrates, mineral and trace mineral elements,
amino acids and collagen proteins
which offer a tonic effect and feed skin
with collagen.
The anti-ageing skin care range
AmorePacific Contour Lift is formulated with the brand’s exclusive Collagen
Bridge Technology boosting collagen
production. It contains the rare
saponin ingredient Bio-GF1k that is extracted from red ginseng, and Amino
Linker that is formulated with skin density enhancing bio-cultivated amino
derivatives. The concentrated Skin
Defining Serum is enriched with skin
barrier enhancing natural hyaluronic
acid.
The Clarins Super Restorative range
features collagen boosting pueraria
lobata extract and moisture-holding
acacia micro-pearls that lift and fill in
wrinkles. The anti-wrinkle eye care
product Augenpflege-Konzentrat, with
its new generation lightweight formula, contains a blend of pueraria lobata;
caffeine; parsley; antioxidant and vitamin-rich shea butter; kaki calyx extract;
organic harungana extract; tetrapeptide; ilk tree extract and guarana; vita-
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min E; wheat; coconut; ginseng, kaki;
horse chestnut; calcium and magnesium; linden; D-panthenol; and cabbage rose.
The Shiseido Bio-Performance
range features the multi-functional
Glow Revival Serum. It is formulated
with Multi-Capisolve 1124; wrinkle improving TXG complex; and vitamin C
shot which minimizes the appearance
of excess melanin; and moisturizing
bio-hyaluronic acid N.
The Primera Super Sprout range
formulated, with 100% natural ingredients, includes Phyto-Sproum – an
activated germination substance with
skin texture improving black seeds.
The anti-ageing and whitening product
Cream (claimed to balance oil and
moisture contents) is formulated with
20% organic ingredients that are
enriched with sprout extracts high in
antioxidants and squalane, which form
a protective barrier on the skin.
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Emmanuelle Moeglin
Global Fragrance and Colour
Cosmetics Analyst, Mintel
London, England
www.mintel.com
COS1505_23_Download 22.04.15 13:16 Seite 23
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… presents market trends for hair care in Brasil.
… informs about the latest trends in preservatives.
… explains how calories and anti-ageing go together.
… is the founder of Bulldog Natural Skincare, the UK’s
first and largest natural skin care brand for men,
talks about his experience with fair trade products.
… presents the company’s latest development, an innovative combination of pearls loaded with actives and a specially developed packaging to distribute these pearls.
… explains how to carefully combine different sensorial
elements into one sucessfull packaging.
… characterizes the natural cosmetics market in the USA.
… explains what the brand Clarisonic is all about.
… explains the product concept behind Lancôme’s
”Dreamtone“.
…outlines the market development in the boom market of
natural and organic cosmetics and personal care products.
He thinks that the growth will continue, the segment will
up to triple its market share in some European countries.
. . . talks about the most important findings in the field of
sun care at Coty.
. . . explains what makes Cosnova so successful.
Cossma 5 I 2015
23
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Global beauty
Key growth-driving trends
The growth pillars supporting the accelerating performance of global beauty include
skin care product developments inspired
by Asian Pacific beauty concepts and a
rising demand for customisation. Niche
categories and exclusive product ranges
also continue to generate growth.
Product developments inspired
by Asian beauty
concepts are expected to boost
sales further
G
brands. In addition to regional
customisation, individual concerns and values are being addressed, which includes
the growing segmentation of portfolios and more
targeted marketing activities.
photo: Nikita Ergaliev, Shutterstock.com
lobal beauty maintained its
growth at over 5% in 2014 despite the slight deceleration in
two of the largest emerging markets,
China and Brazil. Latin America, Middle East and Africa maintained doubledigit growth rates while Western Europe and North America both showed
stable recoveries and accelerating
growth. A diversity of trends has been
unfolding and fostered the rising demand for customisation, particularly in
skin care, hair care, and colour cosmetics. Skin care product developments
inspired by Asian Pacific beauty concepts, formats and textures (‘Asianification’, so called) are expected to
boost sales further. In developed markets niche categories and exclusive
product ranges continue to generate
growth, and the acquisition of strongly
performing labels is a strategic priority
for leading beauty players. The global
beauty industry is rapidly accommodating digital developments across all
categories, and companies are increasingly investing in a strong online pres-
ence and brand image, analysing consumer habits, driving innovation and
striving to offer a competitive pricing
platform. Digital strategies serve all aspects of beauty operations and have
to be aligned to all trends.
photo: Puhhha, Shutterstock.com
The evolving trend
of customisation
The popularity of face masks is also
rapidly expanding beyond Asia
24
COSSMA 5 I 2015
Although customisation is not a
surprisingly new trend in global beauty, it has been fast evolving and constantly raising the bar for marketers.
Consumers’ demand for tailored solutions varies across regions and categories and is developing (with powerful encouragement from digital technology) into individualisation. While
for example natural, skin-friendly ingredients, anti-pollution and scented
beauty products are seeing heightened
demand in Asia, Europe and North
America, consumers are growing more
focused on cross-category alignments,
multiple benefits and exclusive
Asianification –
Asian beauty concepts
The Asianification trend is expected
to grow stronger and deliver more
product concepts from the region into
international markets. These include
innovations based on product formats,
textures and benefits.
One of the most recent examples
of a concept brought in from Asia
Pacific is Neutrogena Hydro Boost,
consisting of skin care ranges aiming
to lock in moisture and draw water into
the skin.
Asianification is also being seen in
categories beyond skin care. As an example, air cushion foundation formats
combine lightweight texture with
make-up coverage and have been
growing in popularity in the region
since AmorePacific’s launch of IOPE
Air Cushion back in 2012. The recent
launch of Lancôme Miracle Cushion,
which has adopted the air cushion
technology, is expected to repeat the 쑺
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5
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Niche categories
and exclusive brands
Acquisition activities are intensifying for niche brands in beauty. Estée
Lauder, Coty, Puig and Unilever have all
purchased ‘one-of-a-kind’ brands, such
as Le Labo, Penhaligon’s or REN, to
scale up their portfolios and target
growth in niche categories and exclusive brands.
Although growth was picking up in
developed beauty markets in 2014, it
was still modest at 1% and 2% in Western Europe and North America respectively, and characterised by a mature,
fragmented environment. Through the
acquisition of niche brands, compa-
Exclusive product
ranges continue to
generate growth
photo: Billion Photos, Shutterstock.com
global impact of the spread of BB/CC
creams from South Korea.
Face masks are also rapidly growing
in popularity beyond Asia. Although in
2014 some 80% of the global face
masks market value was generated
in Asia Pacific, growth in the category
in North America and the Middle
East and Africa is expected to see
6% and 5% CAGRs, respectively, over
the 2014–2019 forecast period. The
growing prospects of the Asianification
trend are demonstrated in the recent
acquisitions in face masks of Magic
Holdings and Glamglow by L’Oréal and
Estée Lauder respectively. The Magic
Holdings brands are marketed in China, but, through the acquisition,
L’Oréal is now able to transfer the technology to the west, while Glamglow is
a North American brand enabling
Estée Lauder to develop a stronger
presence in the category.
nies aim to stand out and differentiate
their offerings, as well as benefiting
from a more premium image.
The brands that were identified
as acquisition targets have achieved
notable growth through developing
a unique positioning and positively
identifying the target consumer
group.
Digital technology forms
part of all operations
Beauty brands and companies have
long been online, and use the platform
as an efficient marketing tool. However, this situation is rapidly changing
and digital strategies are being incorporated over and above marketing in
research, innovation, distribution and
finance. Consumer involvement, beauty trend analysis and price platform
segmentation are other areas relying
on digital technology.
Cautiously optimistic
outlook in global beauty
Looking forward, the global beauty
outlook is cautiously optimistic, with a
near 3% CAGR for 2014–2019. Given
the cooling growth in emerging markets, multinationals’ expansion activities are expected to be less intense,
and at the same time strongly performing regional players with unique concepts are expected to appear on the
global stage.
Ildiko Szalai
Senior Beauty and Personal Care
Euromonitor, London, England
[email protected]
www.euromonitor.com
dermofeel® sensolv
The best of two worlds in one raw material.
Natural, silicone-like performance for hair care.
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
India
A closer look at the
growth opportunities
Neha Nayak from Mintel’s Indian subsidiary takes a closer look at
the current characteristics of the Indian personal care markets,
pointing at the various growth opportunities in the field of whitening, sun care and men’s skin care, as well as product formats.
photo: Vikacity, Shutterstock.com
Body care: biggest proportion of skin care market
The Indian skin care market is expected
to double by 2018
T
he skin care market in India
accounted for a value of € 873.9
million (INR59 billion) in 2013
which increased by 16.5% from 2012.
Moreover, it is estimated that the value
growth rate for this category in India
will be one of the strongest in the Asia
Pacific region from 2014 to 2018. This
market is set to double by 2018 to
touch € 1.8 billion (INR121.49 billion)
at a compounded annual growth rate
(CAGR) of 16.2%, showcasing huge
opportunities for new and existing
players in the market.
The main players
in India’s skin care market
Unilever leads the skin care market
across all the subcategories. Dabur has
28
COSSMA 5 I 2015
India’s body care market has been
growing at an average rate of 19.3%
between 2009 and 2013 and now accounts for the biggest proportion of
the skin care market in India. In 2013
India’s body care market grew by 8.2%
to touch € 263.7 million (INR17.8
billion).
This market segment is forecasted
to be the fastest growing segment
within the skin care category and it is
estimated that it will grow to € 636,9
million (INR43 billion) by 2018 at a
CAGR of 19.6%.
Whitening – one of the top
claims in facial care
The facial skin care market in India
is expected to grow at a CAGR of 16.5%
between 2014 to 2018. Anti-ageing
grew by 21% in 2013. Whitening is the
fifth largest claim used in skin care
category in India. Manufacturers and
brands are paying attention to two po-
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larized needs: simple and straightforward whitening, and multi-dimensional whitening. To address the growing
needs of consumers, companies are
photo: Urszula Lysionek, Shutterstock.com
a strong presence in body care and
Emami in facial care. Lotus Herbal and
L’Oréal have a strong presence in the
sun care market with 15% market share
each. Za is a Japanese company is
bringing a range of products – from
skin care to make-up – to India with
its breakthrough Japanese technology
and natural products.
To address the growing needs of consumers, products now combine whitening
with additional functional benefits
providing products that combine
whitening with additional functional
benefits such as cleansing. As whitening continues to be one of the top
claims for new product development, it
continues to be the dominant segment
in facial care.
The growth in market share for
Unilever slowed in 2013. To address
that, they relaunched their leading
brand Fair & lovely in sachets at 7 ct
(INR5) per pack to increase sales.
Sandal Face Wash Skin Lightening
from Ozone Ayurvedics (India) is a
100% soap free face wash with real sandal wood particles and is enriched with
extracts of aloe vera, cucumber and
sandalwood, which lightens the complexion.
Bio Mantra’s Pro Tone Face Wash
from VCC Marketing (India) is designed
to offer de-pigmentation and blemish
control to stimulate, lighten and revitalise skin.
COS1505_28_Indien_COS1406_22_Imogen_D 27.04.15 08:15 Seite 29
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
cals’ Bio Papaya Revitalizing TanRemover Scrub from Bio Veda Action
Research (India) is a 100% botanical
extract that combines Swiss biotechnology with an ayurvedic formula
which preserves, nourishes and enriches the skin’s glow.
The papaya extract of Eeshha
Herbal’s Licorice & Papaya Anti Tan
Face Wash brings a glow and liquorice
helps to regulate melanin synthesis
and restore natural fairness.
Huge potential for sun care
photo: Mimage Photography, Shutterstock.com
The skin care segment ‘sun care’
touched € 38.5 million (INR2.6 billion)
in 2013. The market grew by 9.2% from
2009–13. However, a slightly stronger
growth of 11.3% is expected from
2014–18. The sun care market is the
smallest and the slowest growing segment in the skin care category in India.
It mainly comprises of sunscreen. The
market has not yet warmed up to aftersun products. The relatively few buyers
prefer 2-in-1 combined moisturiser
and sunscreen products, rather than
applying two separate products.
The heat, combined with humidity
and moisture, increases the chance of
UV rays damaging the skin, which in
turn causes premature ageing, wrinkles, dark spots, fungal infections and
dryness. Hence, in India, it becomes
quite important to use sunscreen, although it is a challenge to find a suitable non-greasy or waterproof option.
Men’s skin care segment will boom
in the coming years
Unilever leads the market with products from Lakme Sun Expert. Unilever’s
brand Fair and Lovely also covers the
sun protection aspect along with the
fairness quotient.
Lotus Herbals has a range of sun
protection products with different textures and packaging types. Lotus
Herbals’ sunscreen for children contributes 12% of category sales, and
growth is rapid.
Kara‘s Sunscreen Wipe by the
Aditya Birla Group falls under the category skin protection with convenience.
The product offers on-the-go instant
protection with an SPF 20 sunscreen
lotion.
VLCC, a leading player in the Wellness domain in South Asia and the
Middle East, launched sun protection
products in India in 2012. The company
expects to capture 10–12% of the
market share in this segment.
Men’s skin care for a
picture-perfect look
The men’s grooming market is still
at a nascent stage in India. As the
smartphone generation wants to ensure they look picture-perfect, there
are countless opportunities for new
product developments as well as for
new players. Men’s body care is a fast
emerging market in India. Companies
are focusing on this segment in their
NPD activity.
Products that provide a fresh look
for men include Emami’s fairness
cream for men Fair and Handsome.
This offers five actions, including oil
control and reduction, UVA/UVB protection, dark spot reduction and sweat
control for a fresh look.
Sachets – branded products
at affordable prices
Ahmedabad-based Zydus Wellness,
entered the sachet market as they
launched Everyuth face wash in a
sachet at INR1 (1,5ct) in 2014. The
INR1 sachet, a smaller variant of Ever
Yuth’s 50 g Tulsi Turmeric Facewash,
launched a few months ago at 51.84ct
(INR35) and is intended to give it a legup in the segment. The small and midcap companies are thinking out-of-thebox when it comes to packaging
smaller units of a product, which is effectively bringing down the entry price
for consumers to trade up. According
to Business Standard, for skin care
photos: Mintel
Dhathri’s Herbal Turmeric Powder
from Warrier’s Hospital & Panchakarma
Centre (India) is an anti-oxidation
powder. Its natural herbal formulation
is designed to improve skin fairness
and glow and to prevent pimples.
Sun tan removal products are part
of the category ‘multifunctional
whitening products’. Biotique Botani-
MARKETING
Whitening continues to be one of the
top claims for new product development
brand owners, sachets and small unit
packs are finding a new relevance. To
prop up the flagging sales of its blockbuster fairness cream, Fair & Lovely,
HUL resorted to re-launching its
sachet unit.
The Indian skin care market is
very price sensitive. According to an
ASSOCHAM report, 20% of the Indian
population is believed to use the wellknown branded skin care products
from companies such as Unilever and
Dabur. The rest of the population is
said to buy low cost cosmetics. There
are a splash of sachets across various
skin care subcategories that make
branded products available to the
mass market at affordable prices. After
all, the Indian mass market consumer
does not normally prefer to fork out
large sums on a single purchase .
Over the next few years the market
is expected to continue to attract huge
interest from companies wanting to
capitalise on the industry’s growth
rate.
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Neha Nayak
Trend & Innovation Consultant
India
[email protected]
www.mintel.com
COSSMA 5 I 2015
29
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Natural and organic cosmetics
Exceeding the billion mark
After the release of the annual Natural
Cosmetics Report and the current trend
study about vegan cosmetics powered by
the Natural Personal Care trade show
Vivaness, Elfriede Dambacher from
Naturkosmetik Konzepte and Naturkosmetik Verlag explains what to make of the
main findings.
The natural and organic cosmetics
market is exceeding the billion mark in
Germany. What drives the market?
photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
With a turnover of more than 1 billion € Germany is the largest market
for natural and organic cosmetics in
Europe. This market segment which
generated an 10% growth in 2014 is
characterised by continuously strong
demand and wide distribution in all
channels, with a potential that is far
from being exhausted. In comparison
to other European countries, Germany
has reached a higher level of maturity.
65% of the vegans questioned reject the idea of animal substances in cosmetic products
To what do you attribute this development?
For one thing Germany has a long
history in the field of natural cosmetics
and a large number of pioneer brands.
Another factor is that the German
drugstores, which are considered to be
the prime shopping location for cosmetics and personal care, have been
involved since the early stages. Step by
step, natural and organic cosmetics
were introduced to a wide range of
consumers.
30
COSSMA 5 I 2015
Natural and organic cosmetics are
not a short-term trend. The segment is
profiting from the customers’ desire to
avoid certain critical ingredients in
cosmetics. And for the past year, market research has reported that valueoriented consumption is becoming
more relevant. This is a trend from
which natural and organic cosmetics
also benefit. Ethical and ecological
issues are becoming increasingly
important.
photo: Mikhail Rulkov, Shutterstock.com
Traditional cosmetics are turning greener
Why do you think is there such a big
demand?
With the support of the Vivaness
trade show organisers, your publishing
company Naturkosmetik Verlag has
carried out a trend study about vegan
cosmetics. Were there any surprising
results?
Yes and no. There is a strong correlation between nutritional habits and
use of cosmetics. Involving over 600
organic consumers, the survey initially
showed that 82% of the respondents
consider natural and organic cosmet-
ics as important. 71% of vegans use vegan cosmetics. Of the ‘organic omnivores’ questioned, 67% stated that natural and organic cosmetics play a
major role; however only 7% of the
‘omnivores’ use vegan cosmetics.
Where do natural and organic cosmetics and vegan cosmetics differ?
Certified organic cosmetics have
high standards, which are regulated by
the different certification labels. There
are few animal substances, e.g.
beeswax or lanolin, which are used as a
natural alternative to synthetic ingredients. Many organic cosmetic brands
are, for the most part, vegan. But vegans want to know more. They don’t
want any animal substances in their
cosmetics.
Are vegan cosmetics always organic
cosmetics?
No, certainly not – a lot of people
have the wrong idea here. The few permitted animal substances in natural
and organic cosmetics represent a natural alternative to synthetic ingredi-
COS1505_30_Dambach_COS1406_22_Imogen_D 27.04.15 07:30 Seite 31
photo: HLPhoto, Africa Studio, Shutterstock.com
www.cossma.com
The animal substances beeswax and lanolin, used in natural cosmetics
as an alternative to synthetic ingredients, cannot be used in vegan
cosmetics
ents. So it’s quite possible that hard core vegans, who don’t wear
leather shoes and prefer imitation leather, may opt for synthetic
ingredients instead of animal substances.
Will the vegan cosmetics trend continue?
We repeated the trend study after six months to find out if
there were any changes. We saw an unabated strong interest in
natural and organic cosmetics, but the second survey showed a
slight decline in relation to vegan cosmetics. For 8% of the respondents, certificates of vegan origin have lessened in importance over the last six months. 65% of the vegans do not want
any animal substances, 87% oppose animal testing, a high rate
approximately shared by other groups. Even though animal testing has been banned in the European Union, the topic is still
an issue.
What development do you expect for natural and organic
cosmetics in the future?
For years customers have been migrating away from traditional cosmetics and turning towards greener products. Thus customer reach has been growing continually. Consumers differ in
their individual desires concerning the degree of naturalness, luxury, ethics and organic cosmetics. Today consumers have a broad
range of opportunities for gathering information.
The mainstream will continue to use traditional cosmetics, but
this segment is turning greener as well. ‘Free-of’ approaches, stating ingredients not used, increasingly suggest themselves. The
entire industry is again raising the issue of animal protection.
I am convinced that natural and organic cosmetics will continue
to show the strongest growth in the cosmetics market. After all,
sustainability, credibility and transparency are matters where organic cosmetic brands have always been a step ahead of others.
Elfriede Dambacher
Owner of consulting company Naturkosmetik Konzepte
CEO of the publishing company Naturkosmetik Verlag
Dortmund, Germany
[email protected]
www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
Ätherische Öle
Essential Oils
Gewürz-Oleoresine
Spice Oleoresins
Riechstoffe
Aromatic Chemicals
Paul Kaders GmbH
Eschelsweg 27 – 22767 Hamburg
Telefon: + 49-40-380 308-0
Telefax: + 49-40-380 308-27
E-Mail: [email protected]
Seit 1910: Ihre Experten mit dem Ohr zur Welt
COSSMA 5 I 2015
31
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MARKETING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Star
of the Month
Nail polish
Convenient gel nail effect
The new Gel Nail Polishes from Essence target those who want the advantages
of gel nails combined with the convenience of a traditional nail polish application. In order to avoid the necessity of UV-hardening, a new production technology, combined with a fine-tuned formulation design, obtains a plumpy and
glossy appearance comparable to gel nails without using conventional gel
polish ingredients.
G
photos: Essence
el nails are made using a gel
product that has been hardened by curing under an ultravi-
olet or LED light. The advantage of gel
polish manicures, which are normally
applied by trained professionals, is
that the polish stays intact on the nail
with high shine and no cracking, peeling or chipping for at least a couple of
weeks. After gel nails experienced a
story of success in the professional nail
industry, home gel systems were introduced. However, very often the gel
compositions were not very good, nor
were the lights, and the consumers did
not know enough.
Do it yourself gel nail effect – without
UV light curing and easily removable
The new Gel Nail Polishes from
Essence target those who want the advantages of gel nails combined with
the convenience of traditional nail
polish application at home.
Combined with the base and top
coat, the new polishes offer the following benefits: They last 60 percent better, provide good protection against
chipping, and a long-lasting gel-shine
finish with good coverage due to the
new colour technology with ultra-fine
pigments. They work without an LED or
UV lamp and can easily be removed
with conventional nail polish remover.
First, the gel nail polish base coat
is applied. Then the nails are painted
in one of the 46 available gel nail polish colours that can have a gel-shine
finish – a matt, satin, jelly or oil-slick
finish. Finally, it is sealed with the gel
nail polish top coat for an optimized
AM
finish.
Different.
Only 2 % of our color masterbatches
will make you forget everything you
thought you knew about plastics and
let your dreams come true. Amazed?
Challenge our development team
with your ideas!
GRAFE – Combining the best.
Visit us at
SINESS
COSMETIC BU
hall 4 | booth
D06
MASTERBATCHES WORLDWIDE
COLORED VISIONS
IN PLASTICS
www.grafe.com
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Health and Beauty
empowering international business in health and beauty markets
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NEW INGREDIENTS
NEWS
The 25 Years of Innovation
Award goes to …
Ingredients
photo: Alliance, Shutterstock.com
Surfactant for oil-based
facial cleansing
A surfactant for creating microemulsions
and facial cleansing oils
Croda I Cithrol 10GTIS is an advanced surfactant for
oil-based facial cleansing. Microemulsions and oil cleansers
are a new generation of cleansing products, that deliver
good performance and match the trend of using oils in
skin care.
The new mild and effective surfactant allows the formulation of facial cleansers that consist of oil and water in a crystal clear microemulsion, which maintains the perfect hydrolipophilic balance required for this type of high performance
system. It can also be used to create gentle surfactant oil
cleansers, cleansing oils that emulsify on contact with water
so they can be easily rinsed from the skin. These systems
are very efficient at removing long wear and water proof
make-up. The make-up and dirt are readily dispersed into
the oil, then water is applied to the skin and this instantly
emulsifies. The system is then easily rinsed, leaving the skin
feeling clean, renewed and soft.
www.croda.com
INSTRUMENTS FOR
After-shave
Creams
Liposomes
Lotions
Make-up
Nail varnish
Shower gel
Sun creams
UV filters
Sederma I On the occasion of the 25th edition of In-Cosmetics
in Barcelona from April 14–16, Sederma’s Matrixyl won the 25 Years
of Innovation Award, which recognises the product that has had the
greatest impact on the personal care ingredients market in the last
quarter of a century. Launched in 2000, Matrixyl was the first peptide
used for personal care applications. It has been considered a breakthrough in the cosmetic industry as more than a thousand online votes
and a panel of industry experts indicate.
Matrixyl designates an anti-wrinkle active ingredient for cosmetics containing a specific matrikine, which contains a peptide of 5 aminoacids
linked to a 16-carbon chain for improving the penetration of the molecule through the lipidic structures of the skin. In order to satisfy the
increasing anti-ageing market, in 2003 Sederma launched Matrixyl
3000, which is based on two peptides: a palmitoyl tripeptide and a
palmitoyl tetrapeptide. In 2012, Sederma launched a different palmitoyl tripeptide under the trade name Matrixyl Synthe’6.
They are all different and achieve different levels of efficacy. For example, it was recently demonstrated that Matrixyl 3000 shows good results in repairing photo-aged skin and defragmented collagen network
at the level of the dermis. Crow’s feet wrinkles decrease by 33% after
applying a cream for two months. Matrixyl Synthe’6 stimulates the
synthesis of collagen, but also five other major constituents of the skin.
The volume of the forehead wrinkles can decrease by 31% which
achieves a dramatic smoothing effect in just two months.
www.matrixylinside.com
photo: Kentoh, Shutterstock.com
PRODUCTION
Considered a breakthrough – the first peptide used
for personal care applications
• Analyse home & personal care products & raw
material with our dispersion/stability analysers
• Comparative and predictive shelf-life analysis
• Real-time & accelerated separation
• ISO TR 13097 & ISO 13317/ 13318-2
ACHEMA Frankfurt 2015: Booth 4.2 B20
Visit our lecture on 16.06. 17:00 in Hall CMF, Room: Fantasie1
www.lum-gmbh.com
phone: +4930 6780 6030
COS1505_34_Pack_News_COS1405_34_Pack_News_D 27.04.15 07:38 Seite 35
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NEW INGREDIENTS
PRODUCTION
photo: Aleutie, Shutterstock.com
Skin revitalizing extract from yeast proteins
Skin temperature, sebum production, pH,
electrical charge potential (capacitance)
and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
appear to follow the circadian clock
Ashland I In vivo tests recently revealed that certain biophysical and physiological parameters
of human skin change in accordance with circadian rhythms. Skin temperature, sebum production, pH, electrical charge potential (capacitance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) appear
to follow the circadian clock1. Applying the science of circadian regulation to skin care, Chronogen YST biofunctional is a new extract derived from yeast protein that may help to maintain the
skin’s cellular rhythm and guard against UV damage in vitro for healthy-looking skin. It promotes
expression within clock gene proteins in vitro in order to resynchronize optimal skin function.
Using a small concentration of the ingredient, in skin creams and serums, may help to resynchronize the skin’s circadian clock. Just as importantly, it may help improve skin turnover, a skin parameter that slows with ageing. At 1 percent, the biofunctional in day-time formulations helps skin
boost its natural defenses against UV-induced damage; while in night-time formulations it boosts
the skin’s own processes in skin regeneration.
1
Analysis of Circadian and Ultradian Rhythms of Skin Surface Properties of Face and Forearm of Healthy Women.
Le Fur I, Reinberg A, Lopez S, Morizot F, Mechkouri M, Tschachler E, J Invest Dermatol, 117(3), 718-24, 2001
www.ashland.com
Solution against oily skin
photo: Nina M., Shutterstock.com
Silab I Physical signs of oily skin are shiny skin and a lack of radiance, often accompanied by dilated pores.
Oily skin is also more prone to developing blemishes. Inspired by recent advances in sebocyte biology, the
sebum-regulating active ingredient Sebocytine (which is rich in wild rose berry flavonoids) improves the
comfort of Caucasian and Asian skins. It limits the differentiation and lipogenesis of human sebocytes
that are cultivated in 2D and 3D models, thus reducing sebum secretion. According to in vivo tests it
normalizes sebum production, tightens pores and controls shine on the skin. Skin is purified
and freed from imperfections.
www.silab.fr
Rich in wild rose berry flavonoids,
the sebum-regulating active ingredient is suitable
for matifying and anti-blemish skin care products
OxyForce® Cellular Active gives your skin the oxygen it needs to look its best.
Your skin needs oxygen to stay healthy. That’s why we developed
OxyForce® Cellular Active. OxyForce is specially designed to
deliver nourishing molecular oxygen to the epidermal layers to
support collagen production, reduce the appearance of wrinkle
depth and smooth out blemishes. Add a blast of oxygen to your
skin care product formulation, it’s the perfect compliment to
energize your claims. Contact us or visit our website to see our
in vivo study or to obtain a sample.
tell me more
airproducts.com/oxyforce
©2015 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
COS1505_36_Bluhm_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 27.04.15 07:41 Seite 36
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
PACKAGING
Versatile labelling
Laser coders combined
with inkjet technology
In the sun cream bottling station, up to
100 bottles per minute have the batch number
and best-before date labelled on their base
WIN Cosmetic decides on the marking
technology to be used on the basis of
the specific product features. The most
important criterion is that as cosmetic
products often contain substances that
could dissolve inkjet markings over
time, for an increasing number of products the labelling is applied by laser to
make sure that it won’t come off.
photos: Bluhm Systeme
High coding speed
Laser marking is a suitable process for many surfaces – glass, PET or
other plastics. With its high coding speed, its long service life, and low
operating costs, the Bluhm’s laser coder is a cost-efficient coding solution
that offers versatile laser engraving options. Combined with several
generations of long-life, low-maintenance inkjet printers, WIN Cosmetic
makes sure that German discounters are kept supplied with more than
40 million personal care and household products per year.
P
roduction runs around the clock
at WIN Cosmetic in FlörsheimDalsheim in Germany. The production lines stand idle for only 15
days a year. These are the production
lines that ensure that leading German
discounters are kept supplied with cosmetics and care products, domestic
cleaners, washing up liquids and washing powders, and quite a bit more besides. All the lines have to be totally reliable and fault-free in operation, and
outages should practically never occur.
In addition, they should be cost-efficient in operation. For many years now,
WIN Cosmetic has been working with
continuous inkjet and laser marking
technology from Bluhm Systeme. The
products of this full-service marking
provider stand for economy, cost-efficiency and cutting edge technology.
36
COSSMA 5 I 2015
WIN Cosmetic in Flörsheim-Dalsheim near Worms is one of five production locations in Germany belonging to
the Dalli Group. The latter is itself the
brand manufacturer of the private
brands. In the Flörsheim-Dalsheim
plant alone – one of the most modern
production sites in Europe – more than
40 million products are manufactured
around the clock using fully automated
processes. The research and development department is also based there.
In its laser marking process, the
company uses the e-SolarMark 30-Watt
system from Bluhm. This is suitable for
many surfaces – glass, PET or other
plastics. It has a coding speed of up to
1,000 characters per second.
In the sun cream bottling station,
for instance, a continuous stream of up
to 100 bottles per minute must have
the batch number and best-before date
labelled on their base. The text contents for labelling (graphical information such as barcodes or logos would
also be possible) are transferred to the
PC controller via USB, serial or Ethernet interface.
Robust processing and economic operation reduce costs
With the laser source having a life
expectancy of 30,000 hours the robustly designed e-SolarMark CO2 laser
coder has a long service life. In addition, it is designed for use under the
most difficult conditions. The device is
protected against build-up of dust inside as well as against water in droplet
or spray form, thereby meeting IP54
requirements. The lens uses a special
protective glass. In the marking unit
About Bluhm Systeme
Bluhm Systeme is an all-round supplier, serving all industry sectors, of system solutions for
industrial marking. Founded in 1968, the company is part of the international Bluhm
Weber Group, based in Rheinbreitbach, Germany. The alliance of companies specialises in
manufacturing, servicing and marketing. In Europe alone, its coding and labelling technology is sold through seven subsidiaries, and via 56 business partners throughout the world.
Last year, the BluhmWeber Group, with a total workforce of around 450, achieved turnover
in excess of EUR 100 million.
COS1505_36_Bluhm_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 27.04.15 07:42 Seite 37
www.cossma.com
With the best-before date and batch number
engraved on the plastic surface, the specifications
can be felt with the fingertip
the airbox ensures constant overpressure, preventing condensation.
Thanks to the limited amount of
maintenance it requires, the operating
costs of this marking system are low.
What is more, no additional consumable materials are needed for the laser
marking process. As at WIN Cosmetic,
Downloads
Additional information can be found
at www.cossma.com/qr00015
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for May:
User name: cossma5
Password: active
the best-before date and batch number
are engraved on the plastic surfaces..
The laserbeam causes an indentation
on the product surface which can be
felt with the finger. There are other
methods, with which e.g. the concentrated laser light foams the material up
and generates an embossed print effect. A further variant of the laser marking process causes colour changes in
the material that is heated up by the
laser.
In the case of laser engraving, material is burnt away and is generally vacuumed off. An automated extraction
system with start/stop controller ensures that the process is cost-efficient
and at the same time a contribution to
the environment. It only comes on
once the laser is actually in operation.
The automated system also signals
when filters need replacing.
Long-life, low-maintenance
inkjet printers
As well as the laser coders, WIN
Cosmetic uses several generations of
continuous rapid inkjet printers from
Bluhm Systeme. The latest addition to
this family is currently the Linx 7900
which is even available with IP65 protection. With font sizes from 1.1 to 13.8
millimetres (depending on the print
head used) and feed conveyor speeds
of up to 8.4 metres per second, it is
suitable for countless uses. Four lines
of text or graphics contents can be
printed at once, and the printer memory can hold up to 1000 pre-configured
texts. For new users the intuitive
colour display comes in handy.
Maintaining the inkjet printer is just
as easy as using it. Messages appear
on the display when ink or solvent
needs to be added. On some of the
printers at WIN Cosmetic, the ink is also changed in order to alter the print
colour. On dark surfaces, for instance,
the codes are applied in yellow. The
SureFill system ensures that no wrong
fluids can be added. The display will
show a message when the filters need
to be changed. Unlike some other devices on the market, Linx printers keep
on working despite the maintenance
notifications that are displayed. The
machine operator can therefore
choose the best time for the filter
change without feeling under pressure.
Not much maintenance is needed
for this printer. The operators can deal
with just about everything themselves.
Win Cosmetic had their staff trained
directly at the Bluhm training centre so
that they can react to any eventuality.
In more out-of-the-ordinary technical
service cases, Bluhm is generally quick
to provide help and it comes in handy
that often individual components can
be replaced instead of full modules.
Luxurious
ampoules packaging for
the cosmetics industry
If the substances are of highest quality, the
packaging should be ambitious as well. An extraordinary customized printing of our ampoules,
made of clear and amber glass, again improves
visually the contents of your ampoules. The use of
special designed trays for e.g. the bathroom
guarantees an optimum storage and protection of
your luxurious ampoules.
We are at your service for any assistance you
may need for your individual packing solutions.
t us:
ich
Please visi
2015, Mun
ne
Ju
1
10-1
14
oth E
Hall 4, Bo
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Kurt Hoppen
Authorised Signatory and
Member of the Management
Board, Bluhm Systeme
Rheinbreitbach, Germany
[email protected]
www.bluhmsysteme.com
www.bluhmwebergroup.com
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG
Am Stammholz 11 · 97877 Wertheim / Germany
Phone (+49 93 42) 96 07-0 · Fax (+49 93 42) 96 07-20
e-mail: [email protected]
www.lutz-packaging.de
COS1505_38_Cosprof_Nachlese_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 27.04.15 07:43 Seite 38
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
EVENTS
Cosmopack 2015
Creative solutions for
future product concepts
2-in-1 make-up pack that delivers
and smooths colour
A
lbéa’s Cushion Tint is a 2-in-1
make-up pencil. The “tint” in
the colour pencil dispenses the
make-up and the cushion at the other
end is an easy-to-use foam pad to
smooth in the colour. The product is in
line with the “cushion” trend from Asia
which gives a lightly sophisticated
“naked” effect to make-up.
Bomo Trendline offers a full service
portfolio with packaging, care and
beauty products and sector-specific
services. Among the many new developments featured was the Lip Care &
Tint Legere line. Its Lip Painter as an alternative to lipstick has a long-lasting
formula with an aroma of apricots. It
contains moisturising shea butter
keeping the lips glossy for up to 24
hours. Semi-transparent Lip-Tintino
with its light red pigments creates a
natural lip look and moisturising ingredients provide lip care. Rich in pakii
butter with a sweet and fruity cherry
fragrance, Lip Butter Protect is for
chapped and dry lips. BB Lip Balm
Calm applies a soothing and moistur-
38
COSSMA 5 I 2015
ising film to the lips. The paraben-free
creamy-textured Lip Pigment Pearls
have an optical push-up and intense
colour pigments creating an elegant
shimmer. The all-in-one Eyebrow
Designer colours, outlines and shapes
the eyebrows. A new applicator makes
it easy to apply more colour for perfect
coverage. The Eyebrow Finalizer covers
even the tiniest of gaps in the brows.
Superfine tips thicken the brows
and lengthen their contours for up to
24 hours.
As a new step for the company,
Alkos branched out into mascara and
presented one volumising and one
lengthening formulation. In addition,
they showed their best-selling waterproof eyeshadow Intense N’Stay in a
Jumbo twist airtight packaging. The
eyeshadow with its easy-to-blend
creamy texture and its intense pay-off
and sensorial application has a 15h
long performance.
Geka’s latest fully finished set
Shake It Shape It comprises mascara,
lip gloss, eyeliner and eyebrow gel, all
of them in the new rounded design in
black with silver glitter particles with
the same cap and decorated with a 2colour silk screen print in pink and silver. The ultra-light formula and versatile LashGlory with its curved shape
brush fits the arc of the eyelashes and
coats even the smallest hair with one
stroke, providing curled and length-
photo: Ctl
photo: Albéa
In our Cosmopack review we are focussing mainly on some
solutions relevant for colour cosmetics.
Decorated injection-moulded plastic
tube simplifying the supply chain
ened eyelashes with extra volume. The
1K-brush has wedge-shaped discs and
conical bristles for optimised application and bristles at the tip for a pushup effect. GentleLips with its heavywalled bottle design and its soft flock
has a 4-sided base, which flows into a
round design. Its formulation combines an ultra-light rich glitter gloss in
pink with a non-sticky wet effect. The
2K-applicator with its soft flock facilitates precise application. The flocked
DefinitionLiner has an applicator as
soft as a brush and precise as an eyeliner tip. Thanks to pressure response
the application thickness of the in-
Cosmoprof and Cosmopack at a glance
With 248,000 visitors, Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2015 had a record number of visitors
to see the latest developments presented by the 2493 exhibitors. The Cosmopack section
featured 420 exhibitors from 33 countries. The winners of the 2 nd edition of The Wall
competition for sustainable packaging solutions, were: Gala Cosmetics with its BB Green
cream, Fasten’s Eco-Pump delivery system, Verve’s research into biodegradable plastic,
Geka’s sustainable production process, MYC Packaging’s reusable make-up set in PETG,
GPE Ardenghi’s energy-saving LED technology in screen printing, Pink Frogs’ efforts in
increasing consumer awareness, MKTG Industry for their make-up sets of recycled
cardboard and Pusterla 1880’s cardboard boxes which can be transformed into jars.
COS1505_38_Cosprof_Nachlese_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 27.04.15 07:45 Seite 39
www.cossma.com
tense black with its long-lasting finish
can be varied. BrowBrush defines the
curve of the eyebrows in one stroke and
fixates them in combination with the
gel-like formula. Its extra comb zone
makes the application more pleasant
and the asymmetrical shape matches
the eyebrow contour.
The collection Dazzling Premiere
comprises twisted brushes for optimised application with four new volume fibres – SoftFiber, SensitiveFiber,
DeltaFiber and DeltasoftFiber. The VolumeCreator with its extra-large surface
is for applying large amounts of formulation. With the orange tip the tiniest
lashes in the corner of the eye can be
reached. With its expanded surface
due to its two components, it quickly
absorbs and dispenses mascara. The
VolumeTender brush with its new SensitiveFiber is Hypno-cut for increased
volume application and has widespaced bristles for maximum effect.
This fibre with its two-component design is designed for maximum volume
and extra-long eyelashes. The Hypnocut VolumePassion brush with the long
bristles of the new DeltaFiber in a triangular shape provides separation,
length and maximum volume – thanks
to the increased surface and the conical shape. The VolumeGenius brush
with 3K-Hypno-cut, long and shorter
bristles from the new DeltaFiber has a
conical shape. Its triangular shape further perfects separation.
The new ESTube range from CTL TH
Packaging is a decorated injectionmoulded plastic tube, characterised by
a business model which provides customers with quality decoration and a
simplified supply chain so that no
more stocks are involved. This way
speed to market is enhanced and TCO
(total cost of ownership) optimised.
NOBLE
CONTRAST
MATTE MEETS GUN-METAL
COSIMA line in matte white
VIOLA pump laser-engraving
LAJA cap in gun-metal
WWW.BAKIC.COM
AM
PRODUCTION
Twisted brushes
with new fibres
for optimised
application
photo: Geka
Creative ideas for appealing lips
photo: Bomo
EVENTS
Web tips
Fasten
Gala Cosmetici
Geka
GPE Ardenghi
Verve
MYC Packaging
Pink Frogs
MKTG Industry
Pusterla 1880
www.fasten.com
www.galacosmetici.com
www.geka-world.com
www.gpeardenghi.it
www.vervespa.it
www.myc-innovation.com
www.pinkfrogs.it
www.mktgindustry.com
www.pusterla1880.com
COS1505_40_Airless_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 27.04.15 07:48 Seite 40
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
EVENTS
Cosmetic Business 2015
Looking at creative
new solutions
Some 400 suppliers will present their new solutions for future product concepts in cosmetics at this year’s Cosmetic Business. The show will present
solutions in the field of raw materials, formulations, packaging and contract
manufacturing and will take place at Munich’s MOC events centre in Halls 2 to
4 on 10 and 11 June. Key features of the new products presented are natural
and quasi-natural active ingredients and polymers, and creative packaging
solutions in finishing technology and individualised design.
C22, presents two plant-based facial
oils specially for dry and combination
skin: moringa oil for dry skin and passion fruit oil for combination skin.
www.bergland.de
Bomo trendline, Hall 2, Stand
C21/C25, presents a new version of
their Severa range with wood elements, which have been developed
specially for premium skin care products.
www.bomo-trendline.de
CFF, Hall 4, Stand B05, present their
Sensocel cellulose fibres, which are of
organic origin, sustainable and gentle
to humans and nature, and are suitable for various cosmetic applications.
www.cff.de
CLR, Hall 2, Stand D22, presents
ProRenew Complex CLR, which is based
on probiotic engineering and targets
the ability of ageing skin to renew itself
quickly and efficiently, see p. 10.
www.clr-berlin.com
Coster, Hall 4, Stand A28, will be
presenting their new two-part spray actuator system Capri. Finger pad, sleeve
and overcap can all be manufactured
separately in each desired colour. The
spray actuator has a spray channel with
a separate orifice integrated into the
finger pad and is suitable for 1” male
valve cups on aluminium aerosol cans.
The universal shape of this actuator
lends the spray head a unisex quality.
www.coster.com
CTL TH-Packaging, Hall 2, Stand
D17, a tube manufacturer that is mastering its own colouring agents and
and hues, will present, amongst oth-
40
COSSMA 5 I 2015
ers, their latest developments, including the ESTube, Dositube airless and
cap solutions.
www.tuboplastctl.com
Follmann, Hall 2, Stand B13, presents its first fragrant micro-capsules
for cosmetic products, see COSSMA
3/2015, p. 13.
www.inotech.de
Linhardt, Hall 2, Stand C19, presents its PCR tubes (available in every
diameter). By combining PCR material
with the company’s HD printing
process, it has created a very sustainable tube with a perfect look.
www.linhardt.com
Downloads
www.follmann.com
Heinz Glas, Hall 4, Stand D18, in-
spired by the textures found in natural
materials, will be showcasing its new
glass bottles with wood, leather and
slate-like surface textures. This look
arises from the interplay of natural materials, micro-lasering of the surface
texture and digital printing technology.
www.heinz-glas.com
Iggesund Paperboard, Hall 4, Stand
D11, has upgraded its paperboard Invercote: Invercote G. Previously triplecoated on the print side with an uncoated reverse, it now features a lightly coated reverse, side and is available
in grammages from 180 to 380 g/m2.
www.iggesund.com
Inotech, Hall 2, Stand B08, presents
its patented 2-component technology.
Additional information can be found
at www.cossma.com/qr00016
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for May:
User name: cossma5
Password: active
Lumson, Hall 4, Stand E03, is presenting its new Green PE packaging,
which is manufactured using ethanol
that has been derived from sugar cane.
It is in contrast to ethanol that has
been derived from crude oil and is
manufactured in a more sustainable
way, with lower CO2 emissions. For
every tonne of Green PE produced,
there is a saving of 2.5 tonnes of CO2.
Lumsen can produce their entire STD
PE plastic bottle collection in the
Green PE version. The bottles can be
coloured and finished as usual.
www.lumson.it
Mibelle, Hall 4, Stand B04, presents
PhytoCellTec nunatak, a stem cell ac-
photo: Iggesund
Bergland Pharma, Hall 2, Stand
The glass-look packaging material provides high levels of both transparency
and shine, as a result of the thickness
of the sides. Individual colour combinations or transparent areas, such as
viewing windows, can create interesting 3D effects.
Upgraded paperboard now available
with a lightly coated reverse side
tive based on stem cells that come
from the high alpine plant Saponaria
pumila see COSSMA 4/2015, p.38. This
plant survived the last ice age, as it
grew on ice-free mountain peaks. It has
been shown to efficiently protect dermal stem cells against UV-induced
stress and to also maintain their stem
cell activity.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
COS1505_40_Airless_COS1305_28_Cosmoprof_GB 27.04.15 07:49 Seite 41
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
Naturochim, Hall 4, Stand C12, extends its own range of ingredients with
the launch of a Cumin and an Amaranth
scrub as soft exfoliating agents – both
with two particle sizes respectively for
the face and for the body. The Nat
Organic Deodorized Pomegranate Oil
stands out with its anti-inflammatory
properties due to punicic acid.
www.naturochim.fr
NCD, Hall 4, Stand F07, presents the
world’s first and only biotechnological
manufacturing process for the commercialization of man-made silk proteins.
The AMSilk silk proteins have been designed to retain the basic properties
present in natural silk proteins. Silkbeads is a powder for facial care; while
Silkgel has skin-protecting properties.
www.ncd-ingredients.de
Novaprot, Hall 4, Stand B02, will
be showing their Progator emulsifiers
for oil-in-water emulsions, which are
based on natural proteins and rhamnolipids.
www.novaprot.de
Oekabeauty, Hall 2, Stand A16, presents its Beauty Stylist multi-benefit cosmetic make-up tool applicator. With the
help of its unique shape, eye shadow,
concealer, lip gloss or blush can be
comfortably applied out of the jar.
www.opac.it
Promens, Hall 4, Stand F03, presents Cybele, a new cap design, which
has been inspired by the beauty market
trends focused on cylindrical shapes.
With a square edge and pure straight
lines, the new cap is suitable, above
all, for dermo-cosmetics, as well as for
prestige brands. Made in PP, the double wall cap is available in a glossy or
frosted finish. Depending on the application, the cap can be used with a plug
or as a self-sealing version.
www.promens.com
Scandolara, Hall 4, Stand D10, presents its product palette of airless pump
tubes and PE tubes with a whole range
of lip and eye applicators.
www.scandolara.com
Sederma, Hall 3, Stand E07, presents Majestem. This is an active derived from Edelweiss plantcells, that
shows a visible neck and face lifting effect. Apiscalp is a celery seeds extract
that controlls the scalp microflora.
Optim Hyal provides an optimized skin
own hyaluronic acid turnover.
www.sederma.com
Toyo & Deutsche Aerosol, Hall 3,
Stand D14, presents its aerosol packaging system Dual, which combines
two bags with a single valve. This
makes it possible to store two components separately within one system
and then to release both with the push
of a single button. Hermetically-sealed
aluminium bags prevent the contents
from oxidising or becoming contaminated.
www.td-aerosol.com
Tubex Wasungen, Hall 2, Stand C12,
produces the eco-friendly plastic
SL-T tube, which is 25 percent lighter
than a standard extrusion plastic tube,
due to the new SL-T production
process, which completely omits the
shoulder and welds the cap directly
onto the tube body.
www.sl-t.de
AM
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Combining PCR material
with a HD printing process
for a sustainable tube with
an appealing look
photo: Coster
Spray actuator system with unlimited
freedom for combining colours
Eco-friendly, 25%
lighter, tube due to
a new production
process, which
omits the shoulder
welding the cap
directly onto the
tube body
Two components
stored separately
within one system
and both of them released with the push
of a single button
Sustainable cellulose fibres of organic
origin for a broad range of applications
photo: Toyo
ph
photo: CFF
oto
:O
ek
ab
ea
uty
New cap particularly suitable for dermo-cosmetics
and prestige brands
photo: Linhardt
photo: Promens
photo: Tubex
www.oekagroup.de
O-Pac, Hall 4, Stand A01, present
their handy disposable Oral Care
Wipes, which prevent bacterial contaminations and guarantee safety and
are specially designed to help remove
plaque and leftover bits of food. The
Plumping From Inside Eye Mask is a
beauty treatment with a patented ingredient which boosts cell volume
through a dual mechanism of adipogenesis and lipogenesis. Illuminating
Scrub is a precious treatment with a
double effect in a simple wipe: purifying and illuminating.
PRODUCTION
Multi-benefit make-up tool
applicator with a unique shape
COSSMA 5 I 2015
41
COS1505_42_Marktuebersicht_COS1405_30_Marktuebersicht_GB 22.04.15 13:17 Seite 42
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
MARKET SURVEY
Processing, packaging
and laboratory services
Here it is, once again – our fully updated version of the market survey listing suppliers of services and products
offered to you in the fields of processing, packaging and laboratory services. This market survey shows at a
glance which products and/or services the listed suppliers have in their range.
T
he range covered by the listed companies is extensive. Beginning with
measurement, testing and analysis
devices, equipment for laboratory and development departments, mixing, dosing and
transporting equipment, weighing, packaging and labelling machinery, filling lines and
right through to software and services.
The main service and/or products of
each company is clearly indicated. A big
advantage is the presentation of e-mail
addresses enabling you to make rapid and
direct contact.
Downloads
Market survey process technology
at www.cossma.com/qr00013
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for May:
User name: cossma5
Password: active
Would you like to be listed in our next issue with details of your
own company’s products and services? Then just fill in the
form now, at www.cossma.com/marketsurvey to be in the next
market survey.
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Allweiler GmbH, [email protected], www.allweiler.de
Altmann Analytik GmbH, [email protected], www.analytics-shop.com
HPLC columns
Andreas Hettich GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.hettichlab.com
centrifuges for the laboratory
Anton Paar GmbH, [email protected], www.anton-paar.com
density meter DMA M
Berning GmbH, [email protected], www.berningma.de
sleeve machines,
adhesive tape machines
BGS Beta Gamma Service GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.bgs.eu
radiation sterilizations
Bluhm Systeme GmbH, [email protected], www.bluhmsysteme.de
machines f. labelling & coding
Brookfield Engineering, [email protected]
www.brookfieldengineering.com
viscometers, rheometers
Bürkert Fluid Control Systems, [email protected], www.burkert.com
fluid control systems
Celsis International, [email protected], www.celsis.com
rapid microbial testing systems
CiK Solutions GmbH, [email protected], www.cik-solutions.com
data loggers f. temperature measurement
Cortex Technology Deutschland, [email protected], www.cortex.dk
skin analyzer
Coster Tecnologie Speciali S.p.A., [email protected], www.coster.com
aerosol filling machines, aerosol valves
Courage & Khazaka electronic GmbH, [email protected], www.courage-khazaka.de
skin testing equipment
CSB System AG, [email protected], www.csb.com
ERP solutions
Dermatest GmbH, [email protected], www.dermatest.de
dermatological & clinical tests
Diagonal GmbH & Co KG, [email protected], www.diagonal.de
quality testing
Dinkelberg analytics GmbH, [email protected], www.dinkelberg.de
chemicals for analytics
Ebbecke Verfahrenstechnik GmbH, [email protected]
www.ebbecke-verfahrenstechnik.de
micronisation, milling, contract services
EKATO SYSTEMS, [email protected], www.ekato.com
mixing technology
EMX Industries, [email protected], www.emxinc.com
specialty sensors f. industrial
automation applications
Engelmann & Buckham Ltd, [email protected], www.buckham.co.uk
filling & packaging machinery,
testing equipment
EquipNet Inc., [email protected], www.equipnet.com
industrial auctions, used machinery
Fritsch GmbH, [email protected], www.fritsch.de
milling, particle analysis
42
COSSMA 5 I 2015
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as
Yes
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Company, e-mail, website
COS1505_42_Marktuebersicht_COS1405_30_Marktuebersicht_GB 23.04.15 06:59 Seite 43
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
MARKET SURVEY
me
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ory cont
Mi
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po
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rvi
ce
Fujitsu TDS GmbH, [email protected], www.tds-fujitsu.com
software
Gebr. Liebisch GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.liebisch.com
metal block thermostats
Gebr. Lödige Maschinenbau GmbH, [email protected], www.loedige.de
mixing granulator
Gerhard Schubert GmbH, [email protected], www.gerhard-schubert.de
robotic filling and packaging machines
Gernep GmbH, [email protected], www.gernep.de
labelling systems, wrap around labelling
solutions
groninger & co. gmbh, [email protected], www.groninger.de
filling & closing machines
GS Computersysteme GmbH, [email protected], www.gscomputersysteme.de
ERP software f. cosmetics production
and distribution
Haver & Boecker, [email protected], www.haverboecker.com
particle analysis systems
HHAC Labor Dr. Heusler, [email protected], www.hhac.de
analysis of raw material &
finished products
ITW Security and Brand Identy Group, [email protected], www.itwsbl.com
hot stamp, heat transfer, pad print,
digital inkjet equipment
Klar + Partner AG, [email protected], www.klar-partner.de
formulation management & software
Koch Pac-Systeme GmbH, [email protected], www.koch-pac-systeme.com
(blister) packaging machines
Krüss GmbH, [email protected], www.kruss.de
tensiometer, interfacial rheology
laborhandel24.de, [email protected], www.laborhandel24.de
laboratory equipmen
Laflow Reinraumtechnik, [email protected], www.laflow.de
cleanroom technology
Laser 2000 GmbH, [email protected], www.laser2000.de
spectrometers
Linde AG Linde Gas, www.linde-gas.de
technical gas f. industrial applications
Lutz Pumpen GmbH, [email protected], www.lutz-pumpen.de
innovative pumps
Mecmesin GmbH, [email protected], www.mecmesin.de
force testing products
Optima packaging group GmbH, [email protected], www.optima-group.de
filling and packaging machines
Pamasol Willy Mäder AG, [email protected], www.pamasol.com
aerosol filling lines
PANalytical, [email protected], www.panalytical.com
machinary for structural material
analysis, XRF-, XRD, NIR and CNA tech.
Paul Leibinger Gmbh & Co. KG, [email protected], www.leibinger-group.com
coding solutions
pester pac automation, [email protected], www.pester.com
end-of-line packaging machines
Primera Technology Europe, [email protected], http://primeralabel.eu
smart label printing solutions
PROCME GmbH, [email protected], www.procme-gmbh.de
machines for filling & packaging
ProLogis Automatisierung u. Identifikation GmbH, [email protected], www.prologis.de
colorprinters
ProSys Innovative Packaging, [email protected], www.prosysfill.com
filling machines
Rationator-Maschinenbau GmbH, [email protected], www.rationator.com
flexible filling lines
REA Elektronik, [email protected], www.rea.de
product coding
Rosa Heinz GmbH, [email protected], www.rosa-heinz.de
bottles, jars, cans & fittings
Sawa Pumpentechnik AG, [email protected], www.sawa.ch
centrifugal pumps, peripheral pumps,
gear pumps
Signum Computer GmbH, [email protected], www.signum-vision.de
machine vision solutions
Spetec GmbH Ges. f. Labor- u. Reinraumtechnik, [email protected], www.spetec.de
mobile cleanroom technology
Sprimag Spritzmaschinenbau GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.sprimag.de
coating systems, coating machines
Symex GmbH & Co. KG, [email protected], www.symex.de
mixing technology
Sympatec GmbH, [email protected], www.sympatec.com
particle measurement
Techkon GmbH, [email protected], www.techkon.com
smart-color-measurement technology
Terco Inc., [email protected], www.terco.com
aerosol filling, liquid filling
Toyo & Deutsche Aerosol GmbH, [email protected], www.td-aerosol.com
„The Dual“ bag-on-valve aerosol systems
VMA-Getzmann GmbH, [email protected], www.vma-getzmann.de
dispersion systems
Winopal Forschungsbedarf, [email protected], www.winopal.com
material testing, rheology,
volume measurement
X-Rite Europe GmbH, [email protected], www.xrite.com
color management solutions
Yaskawa Europe GmbH, [email protected], www.yaskawa.eu.com
industrial robotics
Yes
La
No
as
ure
Me
Company, e-mail, website
COSSMA 5 I 2015
43
COS1505_44_Adressen_GB_COS1405_32_Adressen_GB 23.04.15 10:46 Seite 44
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION
MARKET SURVEY
Production, process, and
packaging technology
BGS Beta Gamma Service GmbH
Fritz-Kotz-Str. 16
51674 Wiehl, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)2261 7899-0
Fax: +49 (0)2261 7899-45
[email protected]
www.bgs.eu
Radiation Sterilizations
Brookfield Engineering
11 Commerce Boulevard
Middleboro, MA 02346, USA
Phone: +1 (0)508946-6200
Fax: +1 (0)508946-6262
[email protected]
www.brookfieldengineering.com
Viscometers, Rheometers
Cortex Technology
Ökonomierat-Peitzmeier-Platz 2-4
59065 Hamm, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)172-2313283
Fax: +49 (0)2311-5444337
[email protected]
www.cortex.dk
Courage+Khazaka electronic
GmbH
Mathias-Brüggen-Str. 91
50829 Cologne, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)221-9564990
Fax: +49 (0)221-9564991
[email protected]
www.courage-khazaka.de
Skin testing equipment
DERMATEST GmbH
Engelstr. 37
48143 Münster, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)251 4882249
Fax: +49 (0)251 4902727
[email protected]
www.dermatest.de
Dermatological + Clinical Tests
Ebbecke Verfahrenstechnik
GmbH
Keltenstr. 16
63486 Bruchköbel, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)6181 189096-0
Fax: +49 (0)6181 189096-20
[email protected]
www.ebbecke-verfahrenstechnik.de
micronisation, milling, contract services
Gerhard Schubert GmbH
Verpackungsmaschinen
Industriegebiet Südost
Hofäckerstr. 7
74564 Crailsheim, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)7951 400-0
Fax: +49 (0)7951 8588
[email protected]
www.gerhard-schubert.de
robotic filling and packaging machines
44
COSSMA 5 I 2015
GS Computersysteme GmbH
Raiffeisenstr. 13
74385 Pleidelsheim, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)7144-80440
Fax: +49 (0)7144-804480
[email protected]
www.gscomputersysteme.de
ERP-Sofware for cosmetic production + distribution
HHAC Labor Dr. Heusler GmbH
Hindenburg Str. 33
76297 Stutensee, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)7249 913020
Fax: +49 (0)7249 9130299
[email protected], www.hhac.de
Analysis of raw materials + finished products
ITW Security and Brand Identity
Group
500 State Street
Chicago Heights, IL 60411, USA
Phone: +1 (0)708 7572825
Fax: +1 (0)708 7583976
[email protected] www.itwsbi.com
Hot stamp, heattransfer, pad print, digital inkjet
equipment and supplies for cosmetics & personal
care
Klar Partner AG
Promenade 3-9
52076 Aachen, Germany
Phone:+49 (0)2408 9509-0
Fax: +49 (0)2408 9509-29
[email protected], www.klar-partner.de
Formulation management + Software
Krüss GmbH
Borsteler Chaussee 85-99a
22453 Hamburg, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)40 514401
Fax: +49 (0)40 5144 98
[email protected], www.kruss.de
tensiometer, interfacial rheology
Optima Consumer GmbH
Geschwister-Scholl-Str. 89
74523 Schwäbisch Hall, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)791 94606-0
Fax: +49 (0)791 94606-3019
[email protected], www.optima-group.de
filling and packaging machines
Pamasol Willy Mäder AG
Driesbüelstr. 2
8808 Pfäffikon SZ, Schweiz
Phone: +41 (0)554174040
Fax: +41 (0)554174044
[email protected]
www.pamasol.com
Rosa Heinz GmbH
Straßfeld 6
85777 Fahrenzhausen, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)8133 918590
Fax: +49 (0)8133 918599
[email protected]
www.rosa-heinz.de
bottles, jars, cans & fittings
Rationator-Maschinenbau GmbH
Alsheimer Str. 1
67586 Hillesheim / Rheinhessen, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)6733 9470-0
Fax: +49 (0)6733 9470-109
[email protected]
www.rationator.de
flexible packaging lines
Symex GmbH & Co KG
Lengstr. 10
27572 Bremerhaven, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)471 98401-0
Fax: +49 (0)471 98401-40
[email protected]
www.symex.de
mixing & production technology
Terco Inc.
459 Camden Drive
Bloomingdale IL 60108, USA
Phone: +1 (0)630 8948828
Fax: +1 (0)630 8948846
[email protected] www.terco.com
aerosol filling, liquid filling
Winopal Forschungsbedarf
Bahnhofstr. 42
31008 Elze, Germany
Phone: +49 (0)5068-99990-10
Fax: +49 (0)5068-99990-19
[email protected]
www.winopal.com
material testing, rheology, volume measurement
476-14_EA_Image_medBF_Cos_GB_A4_476-14_EA_Image_medBF_Cos_GB_A4 22.04.15 13:14 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
…
M
U
R
O
F
cal BEAUTY
medi
tical application
ac
pr
its
d
an
ch
ar
se
re
n
ee
tw
be
… forms the bridge
ne and cosmetics
in the fields of aesthetic medici
For a successful partnership:
· Covers the current state of knowledge and practice for doctors
involved with aesthetic procedures and for beauticians
· Cosmetology, technology or trophology: Carries in-depth and
carefully researched professional knowledge and guidance
– Published 6 times per annum
– Reaches more than 10.000 dermatologists,
beauticians and plastic surgeons in Germany,
Austria and Switzerland
Further information: www.cossma.com/medicalBF
Click here!
www.beauty-forum.com/abo
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str.14–18 • 76133 Karlsruhe
Geschäftsführer: Jürgen Volpp
Registergericht Mannheim HRB 106183
USt-ID: DE 813859129
COS1505_Shanghai_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 27.04.15 07:50 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
COS1505_47_Pack_News_COS1409_28_News_GB 27.04.15 07:53 Seite 47
www.cossma.com
Trends
Statements
Innovation
NEWS
Packaging
E-mail newsletter order
photo: VariBlend
Latest dual-dispensing solutions
Variblend I The 20mm MiniMix from VariBlend (manufacturer of custom-blending, dual-dispensing technology) is an example of compact engineering, while also being suitable for on-thego personal care products that are based upon fixed or variable
delivery ratios of two different formulas. A tightly webbed, precision matrix of 19 separate nozzles distributes select ratios of two
thoroughly blended formulas onto a surface applicator, which results in a freshly blended, smooth delivery. The 40mm MidiMix
variable dispenser offers custom blending capabilities for smallto-medium dosages. The technology is suitable for a variety of
“regiment-based” product categories that deliver a different multi-element formula over time. Such categories include skin care,
sunless tanning and hair care, as well as products that require
ingredient separation or need precise mixing and blending at
the moment of application.
www.variblend.com
Mixer to custom blend two formulas with no residual product
Record production for aluminium aerosols
* The companies that are members of AEROBAL, the International Organisation of Aluminium Aerosol Container Manufacturers,
account for about 70 per cent of total production worldwide
www.aerobal.org
photo: Aerobal
Aerobal I Despite restrained economic growth in many areas, production figures
released by the international producers of aluminium aerosol cans (Aerobal)*
showed an increase of four per cent, to 7.6 billion cans, for 2014.
According to Gregor Spengler, Secretary General of Düsseldorf-based Aerobal, the
disproportionately high growth is proof of the benefits of aluminium as a material.
After all, about half of all aerosol containers produced worldwide today are made
from aluminium. And the opportunities for the aluminium can are far from being
exhausted.
A glance at the statistics for 2014 shows where the future potential lies: 47 per cent
of all cans were supplied to the European market and about 33 per cent to the
markets of North and South America. There was marked growth in the Asia-Pacific
region with a market share over 14 per cent. Other geographic regions account for
the remaining five per cent.
Every second aluminium aerosol can produced and used worldwide contains a
deodorant or an antiperspirant. Hairsprays, hair mousses, shaving foams and other
cosmetic and care products are a long way behind, with each accounting for less
than ten per cent of the total market. Altogether, almost 80 per cent of all aluminium
cans produced go the cosmetics market.
Five per cent of the aluminium cans are supplied to the pharmaceutical sector; the
broad-ranging household products sector uses about ten per cent; and only about
two per cent of all cans are used in the food sector today.
Aerobal President Giorgio Aliprandi is convinced: “Our member companies are
facing considerable challenges as a result of ever-smaller batch sizes, ever-shorter
delivery times and the trend to zero stock-keeping on the part of the clients. In
future, a sustained trend towards smaller order
quantities and more pronounced individualisation of products and end users will favour the
use of digital printing and other flexible printing
and refining processes.”
Due to the global trend towards lightweight
solutions for an increasingly mobile society,
light aluminium has an advantage. Furthermore, aluminium cans also score convincingly
well when it comes to sustainability: they offer
infinite recyclability and are consequently a
resource-conserving, permanent material.
80 per cent of all aluminium
cans go to the cosmetics market
z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree
that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact
me
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with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further information, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty.
Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card:
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Company
Street address
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Date and signature
Order today:
Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected]
Tel: +49(0) 721 165-131 Fax: +49(0) 721 165-103
COS1505_48_Preise_COS1409_34_Preise_D 27.04.15 07:54 Seite 48
www.cossma.com
SERVICES INGREDIENTS
Essential oils: Current import prices in €/kg
May 2015
Amyris, Sandalwood West Indies
Anethol from star anis
Bergamotte “Reggio”
Buccu leaf “Betulina”
49.00 firm, scarce
19.50 stable
88.50 stable
350.00–590.00 unchanged
Cananga
Caraway seed, Balkan/Holland
Cassia, China
Cedarwood, China
69.00 almost
unchanged
38.50 unchanged
Prices ar ex-works Germany,
customs cleared in the EU
Note: The €/$ exchange rate has an
impact on several prices and
at times has a greater impact than
percentage price changes at
source.
38.50–50.00 stabilised
16.50 firm
Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia
Cedarwood Texas
24.00 firm
21.50 firm
Celery seed, India
Citronella, China, 85/35%
96.50 stabilised
21.50 somewhat
firmer
Citronella, Java, 85/35%
Clove leaf, Madagascar
21.00 stable
18.00–20.00 stabilised
Menthol, India, known brands
Mint (Pepp. arv.), China
Nutmeg, Indonesia
15.00 volatile,
prices day by day
80.00–92.00 weaker
Eucalyptol, min 99% (1,8-Cineol)
18.50 almost unchanged
Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 20.00 very little movement
Nutmeg, Indonesia
Nutmeg, Sri Lanka
80.00–92.00 weaker
76.00–88.00 weaker
Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 20.50 very little movement
Eucalyptus, China, 80/85%
14.50 almost unchanged
Orange, bitter, Brazil
Orange, Brazil
64.50 still firm
6.50–7.20 still firm
Eucalyptus staigeriana
Fennel seed
Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP
Palmarosa, East Indies
7.15–7.65 still firm
35.00 somewhat
weaker
Coriander
Dill, Balkan
133.00–155.00 still very firm, good quality,
almost impossible to find
31.00–41.00 stable
27.50 firm
33.50–62.00 steady
Geranium, Egypt
Geranium, China
90.00 still volatile
175.00 very firm
Ginger, India/Cochin
Grapefruit white
160.00 stable, weaker
30.00–46.00 stabilised
Guaiacwood, Paraguay
Howood, min. 85%
23.00 unchanged
37.00–47.00 very firm, good quality,
still scarce
Juniper berry
Lavandin abrialis
210.00–450.00 stable
28.00 firm, origin sold out
Lavandin grosso
Lavender, Bulgaria
Lavender, France, 40/42%
Lemon, Messina, winter harvest
27.00 firm, origin sold out
120.00 prices very firm,
practically sold out at
source
135.00 firm and scarce,
almost all sold
36.00 stable
Lemon grass, Cochin
Limette, distilled,
Mexico, West Indies
17.50 stable
47.00 stabilised
Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75%
Menthol, China, BP/DAB
22.00 somewhat firmer
18.50 volatile,
prices day by day
48
COSSMA 5 I 2015
Mint (Pepp. arv.), India
18.50 volatile,
prices day by day
15.50 volatile,
prices day by day
Parsley seed
Patchouli, Sumatra extra
Pepper, India
Peppermint, American
Peppermint, Indian
Petitgrain, Paraguay
Rosemary, North Africa,
Morocco/Tunisia
Rosewood, Brazil
165.00 unchanged
84.00 stabilised
100.00–130.00 stabilised
75.00–90.00 still stable,
firm undertone
26.00 stabilised
55.00 very scarce and very firm
nom. 45.00 scarce, expensive
nom. 500.00 small quantity sporadically
available (CITES!)
Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30%
75.00 stable with firm tendency
Sandalwood, India
nom. 2,800.00 very firm, legally sold oil
almost unavailable
Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 65.00–70.00 continues to be firm
Spearmint, India, 60%
27.00 almost unchanged
Spruce needle, Siberia
Star anis, China
Vetiver, Haiti
Vetiver, Java
25.00 firm, scarce at origin
16.50 practically unchanged
200.00 in principal unchanged
185.00 very firm,
very scarce
COS1505_49_BFMuenchen_COS1402_40_ADV_Incos_D_GB 27.04.15 07:55 Seite 49
30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015
Don’t miss the
anniversary
edition
The 30th edition of the ‘grande dame’ of the BEAUTY FORUM trade
fairs will be held this year at the International Trade Fair in Munich
on October 17 and 18. Please note that this is one weekend earlier
than the usual date. This beauty event, known as the most important European beauty tradeshow in the autumn, offers the entire
spectrum of professional service cosmetics.
T
he traditional exhibition areas
open for you to explore include
skin care, apparatus and colour
cosmetics, nail design and nail art,
pedicure and podiatry, medical beauty
and anti-ageing as well as the thematic worlds of natural cosmetics and
Wellness & Spa.
Just to give you an idea of what to
expect, the statistics for last year’s
event were impressive. More than
880 exhibiting companies and brands
presented their innovations on a
35,000 square metre exhibition area.
Among these, 20% were international
exhibitors from a total of 20 countries.
Their presentations attracted more
than 40,000 professional visitors, including 19% of international visitors
from over 50 countries.
In addition to this, the 28 workshops held were attended by 600 people and 7 championships were held in
professional make-up, nail and bodypainting.
Finding business partners
at a click
BEAUTY FORUM connect is an online networking tool which offers a
great opportunity to establish new national and international B2B contacts.
So for those looking to set up an efficient network online, BEAUTY FORUM
connect at www.connect.beauty-forum.com can help you find potential
business partners and get in touch
with them. You can present an online
company profile, with videos, photos
and contact data, plus a description of
the brands and services you offer. The
database makes it easy for you to pick
up the relevant details of potential
business partners, and of course research them via the MyMatch facility.
In a dedicated Matching Area at the exhibition you can then discuss the pos-
photo: Pauline Fabry
www.cossma.com
More than 880 exhibiting companies and brands attracted
more than 40,000 professional visitors in 2014
sibilities of collaboration in a relaxed
atmosphere.
For exhibitors at BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015, participation in BEAUTY FORUM connect is free of charge:
www.connect.beauty-forum.com
Admission to the exhibition is free of charge for foreign
visitors.
Key information: www.beauty-fairs.com/muenchen
Save the date: 30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH
Date:
Location:
Opening hours
Saturday:
Sunday:
Organiser:
Further information:
October 17–18
Messe München International
Entrance North and Northwest,
Paul-Henri-Spaak-Str. 12, 81829 Munich
9.00 a.m. – 6.00 p.m.
9.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m.
Health and Beauty Germany
www.beauty-fairs.com/muenchen
COS1505_50_Formulierung_COS1409_36_Formulierung_D 27.04.15 07:56 Seite 50
www.cossma.com
SERVICES FORMULATIONS
In our June issue we will be focussing
on formulations for sun care. In
July/August it will be the turn of
formulations for hair care, hair
styling and hair colourations.
All of the information published here has been
carefully assembled.
However, neither the
publishers nor the developers of these formulations can accept responsibility for their safety or
accuracy.
A
t the moment, formulations
with new textures are very
popular. So what about the
Smoothing Body Powder as presented
here by AkzoNobel? For those seeking an alternative to the daily body
care routine with lotions, the All Natural Skin Care Stick from Lipo Chemicals could be an appealing option.
Over the past few years it has become increasingly popular to incorporate oils into all kind of products, so
that they can add a little extra nutrition, smoothness and radiance. In this
selection we present two formualations which demonstrate this trend: a
Matt Oil Gel (Natural) offered by NordNatural Youth Elixir
A. Brasca
Smoothing Body Powder
AkzoNobel
Cosmobiotic Velvet Cream
Ashland
Low Cost Effective Baby Shower Gel
Azelis
Hair Conditioner Nature Meets
Performance
BASF
Forever Fresh Deo
Biesterfeld
Lip Balm – 95% Organic,
100% Natural
Brenntag
Natural cosmetics
Even though the growth of the market segment of natural cosmetics is
not quite as sensational as in previous years, natural formulations are
still in high demand. Our broad selection of 28 formulations shows
you a wide range of interesting ideas that range from down-to-earth
bread and butter formulations to exciting new ideas. Would you like to
see what ingredients were used to create the formulations mentioned
and how they are produced? Then, please, feel free to take a closer
look. All the formulations listed here are available for download, free
of charge, from our web site at www.cossma.com/qr00014*.
mann, Rassmann and an Essential Oil
Balm by Zschimmer & Schwarz.
At the moment, there are a large
number of consumers seeking a more
natural choice when it comes to deodorants, as they are worried about deodorants containing chemicals such as
aluminium. If you’re thinking twice
about including such ingredients in
your next deodorant creation, these
Downloads
Additional information can be found
at www.cossma.com/qr00014
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for May:
User name: cossma5
Password: active
Natural Moisturizing Face Care
for Sensitive Skin (O/W)
CLR
Love Her. Naturally Hydrating
Body Moisturiser
Croda
All Natural Foundation
DKSH
Natural Repair Night Cream WO
Dr. Straetmans
Low Cost Effective Baby Shower
Gel
Evonik
Natural Skin Whitening Cream
GfN Selco
Organic Berry Night Cream
HallStar
formulations are worth checking out:
Worlée’s Natural Deodorant Without
Aluminium and Forever Fresh Deo by
Biesterfeld.
Natural hair care is another area
that can be challenging when trying to
compete with conventional high performance products that contain synthetic ingredients. Here the selection
of natural alternatives offered includes: BASF’s Hair Conditioner Nature Meets Performance, Sederma’s
Happy Scalp Regulating Serum and
Sisterna’s Protecting ‘Ivy’ Hair Conditioner Spray (leave-in).
*Access codes for downloading the formulations can be
found on the Internet panel on this page
Natural Slimming Cream
Impag
In-shower Body Milk
KahlWax
Natural Loose Powder
Kobo
All Natural Skin Care Stick
Lipo Chemicals
Blush Me Pink
Lonza
PEG-Free Apricot Cleansing Jam
Lubrizol
Natural Tinted Cream
Lucas Meyer
Anti-Radical Natural Day Care (O/W)
Merck KGaA
Matt Oil Gel (Natural)
Nordmann, Rassmann
Happy Scalp Regulating Serum
Sederma
Protecting ‘Ivy’ Hair Conditioner
Spray (leave-in)
Sisterna
Multi-Activ Anti-Ageing Cream
(Ecocert)
Soliance
Natural Deodorant Without
Aluminum
Worlée
Essential Oil Balm
Zschimmer & Schwarz
COS1505_51_Kalender_COS1409_39_Kalender_GB 22.04.15 13:19 Seite 51
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
2015
Fairs, conferences and seminars
When?
What?
10.–14.05.2015
11.05.2015
12.–13.05.2015
13.–14.05.2015
14.–16.05.2015
14.–16.05.2015
19.–20.05.2015
19.–20.05.2015
19.–21.05.2015
20.–22.05.2015
23.–25.05.2015
TFWA Asia Pacific
Exhibition & Conference
NYSCC India
Symposium
NYSCC
Suppliers’ Day
Luxe Pack
New York
ICIS World
Surfactants Conference
Sustainability Summit
Cosmetics Business
Regulatory Summit
World of
Private Label
China Beauty
Expo
DGK-Symposium
Mensch & Sonne
BEAUTY FORUM
MACEDONIA SUMMER
23.–25.05.2015
Beautyworld Middle East
01.–03.06.2015
CESIO Congress
03.–04.06.2015
Future of Formulations
in Cosmetics
InnoCos
Summit
International Sun
Protection Conference
HBA Global
Expo & Conference
CosmeticBusiness
04.–05.06.2015
09.–10.06.2015
09.–11.06.2015
10.–11.06.2015
15.–16.06.2015
16.–19.06.2015
In-Cosmetics
Korea
Seminar: Konservierung
von kosmetischen Mitteln
Hair Biology Workshop:
Fundamentals, Current Concepts
and Future Trends
Cosmetics Europe Week
17.06.2015
Fragrance Foundation Awards
17.–18.06.2015
Seminar: Kosmetik-GMP
Betriebshygiene
MakeUp in Paris
16.06.2015
16.–17.06.2015
18.–19.06.2015
22.–23.06.2015
Cosmetics & Toiletries
Summit
[ [
Berlin, y
German -7
r6
Oc tobe
2015
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
Where?
Who?
Singapore
Republic of Singapore
Iselin, NJ
USA
Edison, NJ
USA
New York
USA
Jersey City, NJ
USA
New York
USA
Brussels
Belgium
Amsterdam
Netherlands
Shanghai
China
Darmstadt
Germany
Thessaloniki
Greece
TFWA
www.tfwa.org
NYSCC
www.nyscc.org
NYSCC
www.nyscc.org
IDICE
www.luxepack.com
ICIS
www.icisconference.com
Organic Monitor
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
HPCi Media
www.hpcimedia.com
PLMA
www.plmainternational.com
Informa Exhibitions
www.chinabeautyexpo.com
DGK e.V.
www.dgk-ev.de
Beauty Greece Tsirimokou
www.beautygreece.gr
Dubai
UAE
Istanbul
Turkey
London
Great Britain
Madrid
Spain
London
Great Britain
New York
USA
Munich
Germany
Seoul
South Korea
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Hamburg
Germany
Messe Frankfurt
www.beautyworldme.com
Cesio
www.cesio-congress.eu
ACI
www.wplgroup.com/aci/conferences/eu-sff1.asp
KGS global
www.innocossummit.com
Summit Events
www.summit-events.com
UBM Canon
hbaglobal.packagingdigest.com
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
Reed Exhibitions
www.in-cosmeticskorea.com
cosmetic campus
www.cosmetic-campus.de
ProDerm
www.proderm-academy.com
Brussels
Belgium
New York
USA
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Paris
France
Pennsylvania
USA
Cosmetics Europe
www.cosmeticseurope-conference.org
The Fragrance Foundation
www.fragrance.org
Cosmetic Campus
www.cosmetic-campus.de
Beauteam
www.makeup-in-paris.com
Allured
http://summit.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
The International natural & organic
cosmetics market
Organizer:
• Up to date:
Facts – solutions – perspectives
• International Top-Experts
• Consumer Insights
In Cooperation with:
German<> English simultaneous translation
SERVICES
www.vivaness.de
www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
COSSMA 5 I 2015
51
COS1505_52_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 28.04.15 09:36 Seite 52
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Suppliers’ Guide
On the following pages you
will find a selection of
suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in
alphabetical order based on
the English section headings.
You can also find a full overview, with a search function,
at www.cossma.com/guide
20 Seit
e 61
Adeps
Lanae
Adeps
Lanae
H. Erha
rd Wag
28701
Bremen, ner GmbH
Postfach
Tel. (04
21)
77 01 20
www.wag 6 93 60-0, Fax
(04 21)
nerlanolin
6 93 60
.com
Aeroso
Mischk l Mixing Balls
ugeln für
Aeroso
le
SiLibead
s
glass
aerosoballs for
l sprays
SUP PLIE
Carmin
e
Karmin
C.E. R
Contrac
t Filling
Lohnab
füllung
OEP
Hans-Dunck
ER
er-Stra
Tel. 0 40
ße
E-Mail: / 7 34 10 30 . 13 . 21035 Hamb
Fax
[email protected]
roeper.de 0 40 / 73 41 urg
. http://
03 35
www.roeper.
de
15
RS’ GUID
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SERV
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Contrac
t Manufac
+ Packag turing
ing
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Lohnhe
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Q_11
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SIG
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Phone(++49)
LIND
E-Mail: 9277-99410·FaxN E R G m b H
[email protected] (++49)92
77-99499
d-lindner.co
www.sili.eu
m
C.E. R
SE
OEP
Lohnab
Hans-Dunck
ER
er-Stra
Tel. 0 40
ße
E-Mail: / 7 34 10 30 . 13 . 21035 Hambu
Fax
[email protected]
roeper.de 0 40 / 73 41 rg
. http://
03 35
www.roeper.
de
füllung
Alumin
ium Sea
l Closure
Alu-Sie
gel-Ver
s
schlüss
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Zellaeros
Wiesenst ol GmbH
D-79669 raße 13
Telefon Zell/Wiesenta
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 l
53-0
E-Mail: 0 76 25 / 92
53-1
Internet: [email protected] 4
www.zella
ol.de
erosol.de
You are
looking
for exp
ort
contact
s?
Should your company
be listed here?
Wir habe
Herstellenn uns spezialisi
, Füllen und ert auf das
Standard Verschließen von
Zeitschrifsachets
Onpacksa tensachets
Konturen chets
Tüchlein sachets
Check
the Inte
rnation
al
B2B Exc
hange
on pag
e 48
in this
issue.
Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf
GmbH &
Dorfwiesens
Co. KG
traße, 61197
Tel. 0 60
Florstadt
41
Mail: kontak/ 82 28 - 27, Fax
[email protected] 0 60 41 / 47 76
.com
GANZ EIN
HERSTELLE
Alu-Sie
Alu-Fo gelverschlüsse
lien
• für Glasu. Kuns
tstoff-Beh
• in Klein
st- u. Mass
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enauflage
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• Qualität
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Stanzerei LAG Gmb
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Tel.: 0 Bad Berleburnverarbeitung
27 51/2
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0 27 51/2
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Publish
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:
05.05.20
15
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packen
Call +49
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ABFÜLLEN
KONFEK
Please
note:
05/2015
Advertis
ing dea
dline:
09.04.20
15
r ad toda
SU PP
FA
N
von Salbe
n, Gelen
, Cremes,
Liquida,
Pulve
Zahnpasta,
oder Aluze r; Suppositorie
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in Alu-, Kunst
Tiegel, Flasch stoff-, Laminattub
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.
pany cou
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placed her
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€ 232,50
per issu
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13:2
2 Se
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S
LEISTUNCH:
G
Your com
Send an e-mail to
[email protected]
health-and-beauty.com
ICE
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Aloe Ver
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21 16
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✂
✂
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0)721 165-227
Start winning tomorrow’s customer today
with your entry in the suppliers’ guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
43 mm
€ 3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’
guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry.
You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Company:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:
Category/ies:
Height i. mm:
To be first published in issue:
❑ 06/2015
❑ 10/2015
Contact:
Street, P.O. Box:
Post Code, City:
Country:
For a period of:
52
COSSMA 5 I 2015
❑ black and white
❑ 07-08/2015
❑ 09/2015
❑ 11/2015
❑ 12/2015
❑ 1 year
❑ test: 3 month
❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone
(including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Phone:
Fax:
mm
❑ 4 colour (Euro scale)
Date, Signature
COS1505_52_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 22.04.15 13:07 Seite 53
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Carmine
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Contract Manufacturing
+ Packaging
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg
Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Certification
Aerosol Mixing Balls
SiLibeads
Contract Filling
SERVICES
®
glass balls for
aerosol sprays
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone(++49)9277-99410·Fax(++49)9277-99499
E-Mail: [email protected]
www.sili.eu
Lohnabfüllung
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
E-Mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
Aloe Vera
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg
Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Aluminium Seal Closures
You are looking
for export
contacts?
Check the International
B2B Exchange
on page 56
in this issue.
GANZ EINFACH:
Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das
Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von
✓ Standardsachets
✓ Zeitschriftensachets
✓ Onpacksachets
✓ Konturensachets
✓ Tüchlein
Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG
Dorfwiesenstraße, 61197 Florstadt
Tel. 0 60 41 / 82 28 - 27, Fax 0 60 41 / 47 76
Mail: [email protected]
LEISTUNG
HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
ABFÜLLEN
in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben,
Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
KONFEKTIONIEREN
Your company could be
placed here for only
€ 232,50 per issue.
Please note:
06/2015
Publishing date:
02.06.2015
von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen,
chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und
Genußmitteln.
DOKUMENTIEREN
GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit
Mikrobiologie.
Advertising deadline:
08.05.2015
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse
Alu-Folien
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter
• in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
• in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck
• Qualität seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
Book your ad today.
Call +49 (0)721 165-144
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG |seit 1964
Wagener & Co GmbH
Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich
Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0
E-Mail: [email protected]
Internet: www.wagener-co.de
COSSMA 5 I 2015
53
COS1505_52_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 23.04.15 07:01 Seite 54
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Polyurethanes, film forming polymers
and sensory additives for your
cosmetic formulations
Labels
Alsheimer Straße 1
67586 Hillesheim - Germany
Tel.: +49 (0) 6733 9470-0
www.rationator.com
[email protected]
www.bayercosmetics.com
baycusan
®
Your
advertisement
could be right
Cosmetic Spatulas
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
go Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver
Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0
Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
[email protected]
Wir packen alles ein - schnell und zuverlässig
www.meding.com
• Konfektionierung, Lohnverpackung und
•
•
•
Glitter Effects
Kommissionierung von Waren und Artikeln
in Klein- und Großauflagen
› Verpacken von mehrteiligen Sets, Verkaufsdisplays und Aufstellern
Produktkennzeichnung und Chargenrückverfolgung
Full-Service
› vom Einkauf der Materialien über Lagerung bis zum Versand Ihrer Produkte
Cellophanierung
Dermatological +
Clinical Tests
SiLiglit
®
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Qualitätssicherung mit lückenloser Dokumentation des gesamten Produktionsprozesses.
Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster
www.dermatest.de
Falkenhorster Verpackungen GmbH
Äußerer Hofring 6
09429 Wolkenstein - OT Hilmersdorf
Fon: +49 (0) 37369-1712 14
Fax: +49 (0) 37369-1712 28 oder 1712 914
www.falkenhorster-verpackungen.de
[email protected]
Filling Lines
Lip Balm Full Service
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
Maschinen für Aerosole
und Sprühsysteme
Your company could be
placed here for only
€ 120,40 per issue.
Book your ad today.
Call +49 (0)721 165-144
54
COSSMA 5 I 2015
–
–
–
–
Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen
Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen
Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen
Mess- und Testgeräte
Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume
Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon
T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044
[email protected], www.pamasol.com
Advertising
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
COS1505_52_BQ_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 22.04.15 13:08 Seite 55
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
SERVICES
Chinese Edition
Mixing + Homogenizing
Trends
Statements
Innovation
SEUFERT
TRANSPARENTE
VERPACKUNGEN GMBH
A STEP AHEAD
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471 9840-10
Fax: +49 (0)471 9840-140
www.symex.de
PACKED
WITH
INSPIRATION.
www.seufert.com
Advertising Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
Sterilization
steril!
Wir machen Ihre
Produkte
Packaging
BGS – Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation.
Find new business partners in China
with the Chinese Edition of COSSMA!
Together with our Chinese Partner “China Cosmetic
Review”, the first Chinese edition has been published
in May 2014.
“Chinese Cosmetic Review” was founded in 1992 and is
supported by the China Federation of Commerce. China
Cosmetic Review is the only official publication in China
targeted at the Chinese cosmetics and toiletries industry.
For further information on topics, print run & circulation
and advertising rates, check www.cossma.com/china
www.bgs.eu
Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen
Tel. +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 90
Fax +49 (0)8133 – 91 85 99
[email protected], www.rosa-heinz.de
WI E H L | B R UCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU)
B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG
[email protected] | + 49 (0) 22 61 78 99 - 0
Vegetable Oils
„Danke für alles!“
Verpackung
für Kosmetik –
Selbstabfüller
Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u.
Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender,
Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen,
Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas)
www.sos-kinderdoerfer.de
Auch Kleinstmengen!
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an
R.GERSCHON GMBH
D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus
Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312
Internet: www.gerschon.de
E-Mail: [email protected]
Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
Wool wax
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
www.cossma.com/china
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected]
Tel: +49 (0)721 165-144 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-150
COS1505_56_IBF_COS1409_42_IBF_GB 22.04.15 13:20 Seite 56
www.cossma.com
SERVICE
XB2B-EXCHANGE
Go to
B2B Exchange: Find your
business partners of tomorrow today!
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
Wish to export their products
abalico
Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel
[email protected]
www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
[email protected]
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Mr. Janos Stegena
[email protected]
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
München, Germany
Contact: Ms. Angela Frommer
[email protected]
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
wish to export to: worldwide
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Ms. Mira Fischbach
[email protected]
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
wish to export to: worldwide
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Mr. Roland Schäfer
[email protected]
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
wish to export to: worldwide
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH
Guderma GmbH
Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
[email protected]
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry and
very dry skin
wish to export to: worldwide
56
COSSMA 5 I 2015
Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany
Contact: Mr. Fernando Duarte
[email protected]
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
Celle, Germany
Contact: Ms. Saskia Schneider
[email protected]
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products,
wellness & spa treatments
wish to export to: worldwide
House of Melchiorsen
Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Ms. Annelise Langhorn
[email protected]
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas – made of biodynamic herbs from
owned herbs-garden.
wish to export to: worldwide
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH
Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler
[email protected]
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
IONTO-COMED GmbH
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
[email protected]
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
wish to export to: worldwide
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
[email protected]
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
Mauer, Germany
Contact: Ms. Karina Grimm
[email protected]
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
wish to export to: worldwide
Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
Essen, Germany
Contact: Ms. Birgit Schmitz
[email protected]
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
TANA Cosmetics
Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co. KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
[email protected]
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
COS1505_57_Impressum_COS1409_49_Impressum_GB 27.04.15 07:57 Seite 57
www.cossma.com
Masthead
Page
The
Team
Volume 15 ISSN 1439-7676
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: [email protected]
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
E-mail: [email protected]
Advertising Services: Beate Bantzhaff
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2014.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Service [email protected]
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and
“Aerosol and Spray Report“
Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates:
Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198.
Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm
by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the
subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in
advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable.
Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Production Ulrich Hanke
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-592
ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696
Advertising Sales
Dorothea Michaelis
+49 721 165-144
Printing Kraft Druck GmbH
Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
International Representatives
Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház)
1016 Budapest, Hungary
Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248
E-mail: [email protected]
Italy Zero Venti
Loris Sparti
Via Valprato, 68
10155 Torino, Italy
Phone: +39 0115637338
E-mail: [email protected]
Advertising Support
Beate Bantzhaff
+49 (0)721 165-232
Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o.
Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3
02-954 Warsaw, Poland
Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953
E-mail: [email protected]
USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc.
Detlef Fox
19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza
New York, NY NY 10001, USA
Phone: +1 212 896-3881
Fax: +1 212 629-3988
E-mail: [email protected]
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified
as such in the magazine.
Advertisers’
Index
Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
www.airproducts.com/oxyforce
p. 35
Beauteam – MakeUp in Paris
www.makeup-in.com
p. 27
Clariant International Ltd.
www.clariant.com/glucopure
p. 5
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
www.clr-berlin.com
p. 7
Dermatest GmbH
www.dermatest.de
p. 9
Dieter Bakic Enterprises GmbH
www.bakic.com
p. 39
Dr. Straetmans GmbH
www.dr-straetmans.de
p. 26
GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbH
www.grafe.com
p. 32
Greentech GmbH
www.greentechgmbh.de
p. 20
Iggesund Paperboard AB
www.iggesund.com
Loose Insert
Informa Beauty
www.chinabeautyexpo.com
p. 46
Intergate Consulting GmbH
www.intergate-consulting.de
p. 49
KHK GmbH
www.lipcare.de/private-label
p. 50
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
p. 19
KRÜSS GmbH
www.kruss.de
p. 8
Lablabo
www.lablabo.com
p. 21
Louvrette GmbH
www.louvrette.de
p. 11
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
www.lubrizol.com/homecare
p. 2
LUM GmbH
www.lum-gmbh.com
p. 34
Lutz GmbH & Co. KG
www.lutz-packaging.de
p. 37
Mibelle AG
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
p. 60
Naturkosmetik Konzepte
www.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de
p. 51
Paul Kaders GmbH
www.kaders.de
p. 31
RPC Bramlage GmbH
www.rpc-bramlage.de
p. 13
Sabinsa Europe GmbH
www.sabinsaeurope.com
p. 17
symex GmbH & Co. KG
www.symex.de
p. 8
SystemKosmetik Produktionsges.
für kosmetische Erzeugnisse mbH
www.systemkosmetik.de
p. 19
Troostwijk Veilingen B.V.
www.TroostwijkAuctions.com
p. 31
COS1505_58_Vorschau_COS1409_50_Vorschau_GB 27.04.15 07:59 Seite 58
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
Effective ingredients from the sea
PREVIEW
ic acid, but a hyaluronic acid booster – an effective ingredient derived from the exopolysaccharides of a bacteria strain
of laminaria algae, which encourages the skin to form
its own hyaluronic acid and is likewise specially equipped
to pad out wrinkles.
www.biomaris.com
A hyaluronic acid
booster based on
seaweed encourages the formation of hyaluronic
acid in the skin
and pads out
wrinkles
photo: Biomaris
The demand for cosmetic products
based on effective ingredients from
the sea has continued to rise steadily
in recent years. This is also reflected
in the effective ingredients recently introduced to the market by our raw
material producers. Practically every
supplier of raw materials now offers
substances of marine origin. There is
Peter Pierron, Head
particular interest in customised comof Product Developbinations of ingredients which help
ment and Production, Biomaris
the skin to help itself.
Possible applications involving plant
stem cells hold a lot of potential. Such substances can be
obtained in environmentally friendly ways. They can significantly improve the regeneration of the skin’s own cells, and
so help keep the skin taut and youthful. But research in this
area has been rudimentary so far. Based on the present
state of our knowledge, it remains a problem how to direct
the activity of stem cells in a systematic way. Moreover, so far
only a few exceptionally robust and long-lived plants have
been tried as a source of stem cells for use in cosmetic
products. The depths of the oceans harbour still undreamed-of possibilities, which will have to be investigated
in coming years.
It is less of a problem to make use of biotechnologically obtained extracts with a high content of special ingredients
which achieve quite specific effects – like peptides,
exopolysaccharides and amino acids. For example, Biomaris’s Anti-Aging Serum already uses not a pure hyaluron-
June 2015
Product development
Plus:
+++ Ingredients for high performance hair care products
+++ What are the latest product trends in China?
+++ Bottles, jars and tottles: the most appealing solutions
for enticing products +++ In-Cosmetics 2015 – the most
promising product launches +++
COSSMA 6/2015 is published on June 2nd, 2015
58
COSSMA 5 I 2015
photo: Puhhha, Shutterstock.com
Dr. Jeni Thomas, a member
of the Pantene Pro-V Hair
Research Institute, provides
an insight into the latest
trends in the field of hair care
Constantly seeking new ideas for effective hair care products
Focus: Hair care
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 27.04.15 10:13 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
Hersteller von hochwertigen
kosmetischen Verpackungen
www.ashland.com
www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
www.azelis.com
www.roeper.de
[email protected]
www.bottlemate.de
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
www.gerschon.de
www.geka-world.com
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.laus.de
www.beinio.com
www.rettner.de
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.sili.eu
www.derschlag.com
www.inolex.com
www.unionpack.de
www.sabinsa.com
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
www.pack-it.de
www.itwsbi.com
www.gscomputersysteme.de
www.rusi.de
www.lutz-packaging.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.mawi-chemie.de
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.cortex.dk
www.aot.de
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
You can find further information of these
[email protected]/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
Your logo can be listed here for just € 60,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1505_Mibelle_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 22.04.15 12:54 Seite 1
Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 62 836 17 31
www.cossma.com
PhytoCellTec™ nunatak®
Secrets of beauty from the ice age
PhytoCellTec™ nunatak® is based on stem cells which come from the high
alpine plant Saponaria pumila. This flower survived the last ice age by growing
on ice-free mountain peaks, which are known as Nunataks.The distinctive
survival characteristics of Saponaria pumila are still preserved in their stem
cells and these are now available for skin care.
• Protects and vitalizes dermal stem cells
• Re-densifies skin
• Fortifies skin’s self-defense activities
PhytoCellTec™ nunatak® has shown to efficiently protect dermal stem
cells against UV-induced stress and to also maintain their stem cell activity.
Clinical studies have revealed that PhytoCellTec™ nunatak® enhances
the smooth and flawless appearance of the skin, even when it is exposed
to the sun.
www.mibellebiochemistry.com

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