Thank you for your interest in Rhodesian Ridgebacks. We are happy

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Thank you for your interest in Rhodesian Ridgebacks. We are happy to provide you with the following information to assist you in determining if a Ridgeback is suitable for you and your family. And also provide you with the right information to assist you in selecting an ethical breeder. We encourage you to read everything in the information packet. It is important to look for breeders who:  Perform health testing on their dogs by screening for genetic defects. (such as OFA, CERF, Cardiac, Hips, Elbows, DM, etc..), and DNA profiling for breeding stock  Are members in good standing with a ʺparentʺ breed club (the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the U.S.) who sets that standard, and/or a regional breed club.  Encouragement the spay and neuter for purebreds who do not meet their breed or working standards.  Obtain titles on their dogs. They prove their dogs have been successful in the conformation, lure coursing, obedience, agility or other performance rings.  Carefully plan breedings, sell pups to only carefully checked and appropriate homes, and participate in rescuing at least dogs of their own breeding and breed.  Abide by a code of ethics, encourages puppy buyers to join breed clubs that have a code of ethics.  Emphasizes improving the breeds, not just selling dogs. The atmosphere is about the welfare and enjoyment of dogs, not classified ads and money. Red Flags!!!!! Be careful of breeders that: Red Flags!!!!! Be careful of breeders that:  Have not performed any health screenings on their breeding stock, and that cannot offer you any documentation on their dogs health status. Say things like “Oh that doesn’t run in my line.”.  Do not compete their breeding stock in any judged events to prove the dogsʹ qualities. Does not have titles on their dogs. 03/2010
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
Are not affiliated with a “Parent” club and/or a regional breed or all‐breed club. You are welcome to view our Regional Club website http://www.nerrc.org. And if there is an event you would like to attend, just let us know. You are welcome to come and meet us and our Ridgebacks. If you find that the breed is right for you, but that a puppy is not what you desire, perhaps you would consider a slightly older dog. In that case, please contact us about a Rhodesian Ridgeback Rescue dog www.ridgebackrescue.org If after reading all the information in this packet, you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, by phone or email. We would be glad to help you. Sincerely, The New England Rhodesian Ridgeback Club 2010 Officers
President Cheryl Fraser [email protected] 508.393.6966 Vice President Jean Gamble [email protected] 978.779.6112 Secretary Marie LaPointe 860‐395‐1502 [email protected] Treasurer Alan Fraser [email protected] 508.393.6966 Board of Directors: Pamela Shattuck 508‐833‐0211 [email protected] Charlotte Matteson 401 364 1879 [email protected] Karen Heine 401‐247‐1381 [email protected] 03/2010
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The Rhodesian Ridgeback
Historical Information
In November 1955 the American Kennel Club admitted the Rhodesian Ridgeback to its
Stud Book as the 112th breed to be accorded AKC registration facilities. The Rhodesian
Ridgeback is shown in the Hound Group (Group 2). Since this recognition of the
Rhodesian Ridgeback by the American Kennel Club, intense and greater interest has
developed in the breed in this country.
The Rhodesian Ridgeback is a native of South Africa. The breed's long history dates back
to early in the 16th century when the first European men explored the interior on the
Cape of Good Hope and found with the Hottentot tribes a domesticated dog with the hair
on his spine being turned forward. This is the condition which we now refer to as the
"ridge." The only other known dog which has the peculiarity of such a ridge is found on
the island of Phu Quoc in the Gulf of Siam. It has never been definitely determined
whether the peculiarity of this ridge originated in South Africa or on the island of Phu
Quoc, but the evidence available seems to indicate that it originated in South Africa and
that specimens of dogs with ridges were transported from South Africa to the island of
Phu Quoc.
It is not known where the Hottentots first obtained these dogs. It is common knowledge
that the Hottentot had pronounced Asiatic features and that his ancestors probably
hailed from the East. If this is so, it may be assumed that the ridged dog accompanied
him on his peregrination until he finally reached Africa.
Hunter, Guard and Companion
The foundation stock of the Rhodesian Ridgeback was developed by the first European
settlers in South Africa to fill their specific needs for a serviceable hunting dog in the
wilds. The Dutch, Germans and Huguenots who migrated to South Africa in the 16th and
17th centuries brought with them Danes, Mastiffs, Greyhounds, Salukis, Bloodhounds
and other breeds. However, for more than 100 years from 1707, European immigration
was closed; consequently, the importation of additional dogs of these or other breeds
was not possible. Good hunting dogs, therefore, became hard to come by and their
value was high. The settlers needed a dog that could flush a few partridge, pull down a
wounded stag, or guard the farm from marauding animals and prowlers at night. They
also needed a dog that could withstand the rigors of the African bush, hold up under
drastic changes in temperature, from the heat of the day to nights below freezing, and
go a full 24 hours or more without water if need be. They required a short-haired dog
that would not be eaten alive by ticks. In addition, the settler needed a companion that
would stay by him while he slept in the bush and that would be devoted to his wife and
children. Out of necessity, therefore, these settlers developed, by selective breeding
between dogs which they had brought with them from home countries and the half-wild
ridged dog of the Hottentot tribes, a distinct breed of the African veldt, which has come
to be known as the Rhodesian Ridgeback. The Hottentot dogs played the most important
part in the development and ultimate characteristics of the new breed. Throughout all of
the interbreeding and crossbreeding between these native dogs and those of the
settlers, the ridge of the Hottentot dog was respected and retained. In due course, the
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Hottentot dog established the foundation stock of our present day Rhodesian Ridgeback.
There is no doubt the Rhodesians (now people of the country known as Zimbabwe) have
developed the breed as we know it today from the original stock. In the year 1875, the
intrepid missionary, Rev. Charles Helm, undertook a journey from his home in
Swellendam in the Cape Province of South Africa to Rhodesia. He was accompanied by
two of these dogs. While the Rev. Helm was in Rhodesia (Zimbabwe) Cornelius von
Rooyen, the big-game hunter and early authority on the South African wildlife, borrowed
the two dogs to take along on a hunt. Von Rooyen soon concluded that they possessed
excellent instinctive hunting qualities and thereupon pioneered the breeding of a pack of
the species as hunters of big game for his own use. They have since been bred on an
extensive scale in Rhodesia and were given the name of that country.
In 1922 the first Ridgeback Club was founded at a show in Bulawayo, Southern
Rhodesia, and a standard of points for the breed was set, which differs little from the
prevailing standard today. In 1924 the Ridgeback was also recognized by the South
African Kennel Union as a distinct breed and the organization recognized its first
registered dog. Only two dogs were registered with the SAKU in that year, followed by
four in 1925, and not less than eleven in 1926. Today, the Rhodesian Ridgeback is one
of the most popular dogs in South Africa.
Breed Recognized by AKC
It is not known definitely when the Rhodesian Ridgeback was first brought into the
United States. A few were imported prior to 1940, possibly as early as 1912. However,
after World War II (between 1946 and 1955 -- when the breed was recognized by AKC),
quite a large number of Rhodesian Ridgebacks were imported, not only into the United
States, but also into England and Canada.
Their hunting characteristics have also proved to be useful in hunting native game in
other parts of the world. Intelligent and ever alert, their heads are held high with pride
and, with a set of feet that will carry them over any sort of country, they are the only
breed of dog in the world that can keep a lion at bay for the hunter to kill....and live!
The Rhodesian Ridgeback has also been used very successfully for hunting bobcat,
mountain lion, bear, coyote, deer, wild boar and raccoon in the United States, Canada
and Mexico. There have also been reports of Rhodesian Ridgebacks having been trained
to point upland game and retrieve game and fowl.
Breed Characteristics
The Rhodesian Ridgeback has the advantage of having keen sight, and a good nose for
scent. Due to the wide-open terrain of the southern African veldt, coupled with the
habits of the game to be hunted and the techniques required to hunt such game in that
terrain, the Ridgeback was developed as a silent trailer, characteristic of its sighthound
ancestry. When the terrain becomes more varied, where baying is desirable to keep
track of the hunting pack (such as in areas of the United States where these dogs have
been used), supplementation with baying hounds (more typical of scent hounds) has
been done.
Possessing many of the characteristics generally associated with hounds, the Ridgeback
has a quiet, gentle temperament, rarely barking. While able to enjoy lazing around in a
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patch of sun, or in front of a winter fireplace, a Ridgeback can be instantly alert if a
stranger should appear or he is in pursuit of legitimate prey. Where he gave the
impression of a big, lazy, slow-moving animal, the Ridgeback can be a threatening
presence as a watchdog. Developed not only to hunt, but also as a family protector, his
affectionate disposition makes him a trustworthy companion for a small child. He is
easily trained, being, more than many hounds, of above-average tractability. However,
because of this intelligence, an untrained Ridgeback can become a terrible nuisance!
Trained, he is a pleasure as a companion, a hunting partner, or as a show dog or
obedience competitor. Because of his innate abilities to protect his family, a Ridgeback
should not be trained as a guard dog but rather the natural protective qualities should
be supplemented with elementary obedience training for control.
U.S. Clubs Forms
In 1948 a group of enthusiastic Rhodesian Ridgeback owners in the United States
organized the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of America, for the primary purpose of
accumulating the data and preparing the documents and pedigrees of dogs in the United
States as required to obtain recognition of the breed by the American Kennel Club. Their
activities were rewarded in 1955 when AKC conferred official recognition upon the breed.
After this recognition, which made possible the showing of Rhodesian Ridgebacks in
shows for championship points, there was organized by owners and breeders throughout
the U.S., the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United States, for the purpose of
sponsoring AKC-sanctioned matches and licensed shows. Both of these organizations
were actively engaged in promoting the breed through national advertising.
Many Rhodesian Ridgeback owners and breeders were members of and supported both
of these clubs. In order to combine the activities of the two clubs, they were, on March
6, 1959, combined into one organization under the name of the Rhodesian Ridgeback
Club of the United States. The program of the combined clubs incorporated the
promotion of the breed with publicizing and popularizing of the breed in the U.S., and
forming a close association with the breed clubs in South Africa, Zimbabwe (Rhodesia),
England and Canada. On April 10, 1968, the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United
States was incorporated in the state of Texas. Finally, on March 9, 1971, the American
Kennel Club formally admitted the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United States, Inc.
as a member club.
RRCUS 1987
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Official Standard for the Rhodesian Ridgeback
From: http://www.rrcus.org/assets/html/breedinfo/standard.htm
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The Ridgeback represents a strong, muscular and active dog, symmetrical
and balanced in outline. A mature Ridgeback is a handsome, upstanding
and athletic dog, capable of great endurance with a fair (good) amount of
speed. Of even, dignified temperament, the Ridgeback is devoted and
affectionate to his master, reserved with strangers. The peculiarity of this
breed is the ridge on the back. The ridge must be regarded as the
characteristic feature of the breed.
SIZE, PROPORTION, SUBSTANCE
A mature Ridgeback should be symmetrical in outline, slightly longer than
tall but well balanced. Dogs - 25 to 27 inches in height; Bitches - 24 to 26
inches in height. Desirable weight: Dogs - 85 pounds; Bitches - 70 pounds.
HEAD
Should be of fair length, the skull flat and rather broad between the ears
and should be free from wrinkles when in repose. The stop should be
reasonably well defined. Eyes-should be moderately well apart and should
be round, bright and sparkling with intelligent expression, their color
harmonizing with the color of the dog. Ears-should be set rather high, of
medium size, rather wide at the base and tapering to a rounded point.
They should be carried close to the head. Muzzle-should be long, deep and
powerful. The lips clean, closely fitting the jaws. Nose-should be black,
brown or liver, in keeping with the color of the dog. No other colored nose
is permissible. A black nose should be accompanied by dark eyes, a brown
or liver nose with amber eyes. Bite-jaws level and strong with welldeveloped teeth, especially the canines or holders. Scissors bite preferred.
NECK, TOPLINE, BODY
The neck should be fairly strong and free from throatiness. The chest
should not be too wide, but very deep and capacious, ribs moderately well
sprung, never rounded like barrel hoops (which would indicate want of
speed). The back is powerful and firm with strong loins which are muscular
and slightly arched. The tail should be strong at the insertion and generally
tapering towards the end, free from coarseness. It should not be inserted
too high or too low and should be carried with a slight curve upwards,
never curled or gay.
FOREQUARTERS
The shoulders should be sloping, clean and muscular, denoting speed.
Elbows close to the body. The forelegs should be perfectly straight, strong,
and heavy in bone. The feet should be compact with well-arched toes,
round, tough, elastic pads, protected by hair between the toes and pads.
Dewclaws may be removed.
HINDQUARTERS
In the hind legs, the muscles should be clean, well defined and hocks well
down. Feet as in front.
Size,
Proportion,
Substance
"A mature
Ridgeback
should be
symmetrical in
outline, slightly
longer than tall
but well
balanced. Dogs
- 25 to 27
inches in height;
Bitches - 24 to
26 inches in
height.
Desirable
weight: Dogs 85 pounds;
Bitches - 70
pounds."
Neck,
Topline,
Body
"A mature
Ridgeback
should be
symmetrical in
outline, slightly
longer than tall
but well
balanced. Dogs
- 25 to 27
inches in height;
Bitches - 24 to
26 inches in
height."
Gait
"...perfect
balance between
power and
elegance"
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COAT
Should be short and dense, sleek and glossy in appearance but neither
wooly nor silky.
COLOR
Light wheaten to red wheaten. A little white on the chest and toes
permissible but excessive white there, on the belly or above the toes is
undesirable.
RIDGE
The hallmark of this breed is the ridge on the back which is formed by the
hair growing in the opposite direction to the rest of the coat. The ridge
must be regarded as the characteristic feature of the breed. The ridge
should be clearly defined, tapering and symmetrical. It should start
immediately behind the shoulders and continue to a point between the
prominence of the hips and should contain two identical crowns (whorls)
directly opposite each other. The lower edge of the crowns (whorls) should
not extend further down the ridge than one third of the ridge.
Disqualification: Ridgelessness. Serious Fault: One crown (whorl) or more
than two crowns (whorls).
GAIT
At the trot, the back is held level and the stride is efficient, long, free and
unrestricted. Reach and drive expressing a perfect balance between power
and elegance. At the chase, the Ridgeback demonstrates great coursing
ability and endurance.
TEMPERAMENT
Dignified and even tempered. Reserved with strangers.
SCALE OF POINTS
General appearance, size,
20
symmetry and balance
20
Ridge
Head
15
Legs and feet
15
Neck and shoulders
10
Body, back, chest, and loin
10
Coat and color
5
Tail
5
TOTAL
100
DISQUALIFICATION: Ridgelessness
Approved by The American Kennel Club on August 11, 1992 and effective
September 30, 1992
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Is a Ridgeback the Right Dog
for Your Family?
Many times people see a breed of dog and fall in love with it’s looks, never
considering that that breed may be totally unsuitable for their lifestyle, their facilities
or their ability to train and control it. All they know is they’ve got to have one!
Buying a dog on impulse is always a bad idea! As with buying anything, YOU must
educate yourself first: find out what the breed is truly like, visit in the home of
several people who have that breed and find out what problems they have
encountered. Learn to ask the correct questions, not only about the positive aspects
of a breed but the negative, too. And learn what questions to ask of the litter
owners...think of it as finding out what the "warranty" covers and the "features" of
the item.
Ridgebacks are not Labradors or Golden Retrievers in short coats. They are hunting
dogs and have a high prey drive. Translation: They are quite independent -- they
don’t fawn over your every word, they can be oblivious to being called and require a
lot of positive motivation to train them in traditional obedience. Many people are just
not prepared for the stubbornness and hard-headedness in this breed.
Any dog ownership requires responsibility. Dogs are not something to decorate your
home or yard, they are living, feeling creatures who should be treated as members
of your family. This is especially true of Ridgebacks. They must be made to feel as
part of your "pack", i.e., your family, or they will strike out on their own. You should
think of them as a new addition to your family and plan for them as you would a new
child.
Planning for Your Ridgeback is Essential
Dogs, especially puppies, will make a big demand on your time. It takes time to
properly feed, train and play with a new puppy. Just like babies, young puppies are
not able to make it through the night and you will have to get up and take them out.
If you work, a new pup might require that you come home at lunchtime to let them
out or hire a noon time helper to assist you.
Ridgebacks need plenty of exercise to stay happy and healthy. You'll need to set
aside playtime and time for training. Young puppies need a lot of socialization to be
good companions. A weekly obedience training class and daily practice is a must for
your Ridgeback to become a welcome member of the community!
If this seems like too much for you and your family's schedule, then perhaps this is
not the right time to get a Ridgeback.
Your Ridgeback Will Need Protection
Ridgebacks naturally want to hunt and have no sense of cars or yard when they go
after a squirrel, rabbit or cat. A fenced yard is important for your dog's safety. Once
a Ridgeback starts after a squirrel or rabbit, nothing short of a six foot wall or fence
may stop them. Dogs allowed to roam are in danger from becoming lost, of being hit
by a car or being poisoned. Your certainly don't want your dog to run away or get
lost or killed. It's also good idea to have your Ridgeback wear an identification tag
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or, better yet, to have your dog permanently identified with a tattoo or microchip
just in case he manages to get loose despite your efforts. And, of course, when he
leaves the yard he'll need a leash.
Your Ridgeback must have adequate shelter if he is outdoors while you are away.
Shelters must be cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Ridgebacks Grow to be BIG Dogs
Puppies don't stay little for long! When looking for any breed you need to consider
one that suits your environment and lifestyle. Take the time to research a breed you
are interested in....visit in the homes of breeders or individuals who own that breed.
Ridgebacks may be appealing to you in a physical sense, but they may not have the
temperament suitable to your lifestyle. For example: Ridgebacks at play are very
energetic - they need lots of space, can knock down children and adults when they
are roughhousing. If you live in the city, you will need to first locate a dog park or
area where your Ridgeback can safely run and exercise….. a tired puppy is a good
puppy!
It's those people who buy on impulse who most often find they can't live with
Ridgeback and decide the dog has to go...this is not fair to the dog! Often it’s these
irresponsible owners who further burden rescue with having to take in the dog and
rehabilitate it.
Again, take the time to read up on the Ridgeback, talk with several knowledgeable
owners, check the Internet and try to visit in the home of several breeders. Try to go
to some shows and talk with exhibitors, but most of all observe, observe, observe!
Money Concerns
The initial price of a dog is of concern to some, but it’s the lifelong cost that they
sometimes forget. In some communities, dogs need a license. Failure to comply with
local laws may result in fines or penalties and may endanger your right to keep your
dog!
In addition to the purchase price of your dog, you must plan for food, grooming,
collars, a leash and some toys and a special bed. Add in vet care and those training
lessons!
All dogs need annual vaccination, heartworm medication, and ...just like
humans...regular checkups. Sometimes, dogs require flea and tick treatments or
expensive treatments for unexpected ailments or illnesses. Ask yourself if you can
afford a dog.
Ridgebacks Need Companionship
Friendship is a two-way street. Your dog deserves plenty of attention so he'll be less
inclined to bark or chew your belongings or run away from home by climbing out, if
he gets your love and devotion. Dogs are emotional beings and to neglect them by
banishing them to a lonely life in the yard, on a chain or in a run is cruel and
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abusive. Just like children, you have to love and instruct them on proper behavior to
have a well adjusted Ridgeback that is a pleasure to be around.
Ridgebacks Need All of the Above For Their Lifetime
The average life span of most Ridgebacks is ten to twelve years, but some have lived
for sixteen years! So, your dog will depend on you for love and care for a long time.
Being a responsible dog owner is an important job and requires your serious
commitment.
1. What are the GOOD points of Ridgebacks?
2. Ridgebacks have a short coat, don't shed much and are practically odor free - great for hot climates.
3. They are quite discriminating in who or what they bark at...you should
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
ALWAYS go check it out.
They are not fussy eaters and have virtually "cast-iron" digestive systems.
They love living with people and are generally quiet in the house.
Ridgebacks are intelligent and want to please their owner.
Ridgebacks are easily house-trained.
And, of course, they are the most handsome of dogs!
The Drawbacks:
1. As puppies they have surgical -- knife sharp teeth and the jaw power of a
2.
3.
4.
5.
Doberman Pinscher...they should never be allowed to play roughly with
humans of any age. They can do major damage to coffee tables, shoes and
anything else they can find to chomp on. Crate training is a must to protect
home furnishings while you are not at home. As juveniles, if left unattended,
they can cause your house to self-destruct...at least, it may appear that way!
If left in the yard, they will find things to chew on that you may not even
know you own until it ceases working. A bored Ridgeback is a major disaster
waiting to happen.
They are capable of digging ranch-sized holes, biting the limbs off shrubs and
ripping up small trees People who love to garden must contend with the fact
that their backyards will belong to the dog!
They are not fussy eaters and have cast-iron stomachs - and you thought this
was a good thing -- NOT! It also means they will attempt to eat anything that
doesn't eat them first. They are master counter-surfers...nothing is spared
and they are fast. Ridgeback owners have a tendency to overfeed their dogs,
causing gas - not the most pleasant aspect of dog ownership. Remember, a
Ridgeback always thinks it’s hungry! You have to feed on schedule and stick
to your plan.
Ridgebacks are "people" dogs, which means they should be treated as family
and not made to live solely alone in the yard, otherwise, you wind up with a
big, powerful, pushy creature of your making! An adult RIDGEBACK can clear
a five foot fence if they want to. A bored dog is going to look for something to
do, even if that means outside your yard. No one wants to live next door to
someone who lets their dog out to eliminate on the neighbors’ yard, whose
dog gets out and kills cats or scares the walkers, joggers and bike riders.
Ridgebacks grow to be big dogs and must attended obedience classes with
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you so he won't become a "bad apple" and make an ugly impression of the
breed on anyone. Learning to walk on a loose lead at an early age is essential
– nobody should be drug around by a big dog.
6. Ridgebacks are intelligent…this too, has been said -- what is means is they
are fully capable of training you before you can train them. They are quite
clever and can be willfully disobedient. The earlier the obedience classes the
better. We can’t say this enough - A bored Ridgeback can be quite destructive
and may develop bad habits of chewing, escaping crate and fencing, barking
out of boredom and generally making a pest of themselves. It is essential
that you have the time to put in with them, which can be as simple as having
them in the house with you when you are home or spending time making
sure they get a good amount of exercise…whether outside hiking, training,
running or walking with them in safe areas.
7. Ridgebacks must be introduced to cats and even so, may be aggressive
towards strange felines.
Before you get a Ridgeback, please consider the adult size of a Ridgeback and
whether you and your family members will be able to properly keep the dog and to
train the dog to be a great companion and a good canine citizen.
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Things to Know Before You Buy a Rhodesian Ridgeback
Although Rhodesian Ridgebacks are still a relatively rare breed (about 2,000 AKC
registrations per year, compared to >50,000 for breeds such as Rottweiler,
Doberman, Labrador Retriever), there are quite a few reputable breeders who are
members of the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United States (RRCUS), and
subscribe to the RRCUS Code of Ethics (PDF document).
The Code includes several important provisions that are intended to assure the
continued improvement of the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed, and also to protect puppy
buyers. These provisions include the following:
•
•
•
•
•
•
An ethical breeder does not engage in the overbreeding of stock for profit
without regard for quality and health of the dogs.
An ethical breeder studies and weighs the faults and attributes of a stud and
bitch, becoming well informed of those considered genetic (inheritable). An
ethical breeder is sincere in the intent of not breeding dogs with defects that
are likely to cause impairment of the health of the dogs or offspring.
An ethical breeder informs his/her buyers about the dermoid sinus and how to
detect it.
An ethical breeder is always available to buyers for consultation even after
completion of a sale.
An ethical breeder will x-ray the hips of all potential breeding stock and will
use only dogs certified clear of hip dysplasia for breeding.
An ethical breeder will obtain an OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals)
certification of clear hips, or an OFA preliminary x-ray and will provide a copy
of this certificate to a puppy buyer, on request.
Avoid buying puppies from pet shops. These dogs are typically produced wholesale
by "puppy farms" where the sole purpose is producing a salable product. Although
pet shop puppies usually have AKC registration papers, you should know that this
registration implies absolutely no guarantee. Puppy farms are in the business of
wholesale production and typically pay no attention to possible inheritable problems
like the dermoid sinus, hip dysplasia, and temperament.
Often you will see Rhodesian Ridgeback puppy ads in the newspaper. Sometimes
these ads are placed by reputable breeders. However, often these ads are placed by
"backyard breeders." These are people who have acquired a dog and one or more
bitches and crank out litters of puppies for the sole purpose of profit. You can spot
one of these backyard breeders in several ways:
•
•
If the seller has trouble remembering details of the pedigree of the puppies
for sale, beware. Breeders who are breeding with the goal of improving the
breed will be very familiar with the pedigree of their puppies, and will be able
to tell you the AKC names of sire and dam, grandparents, and usually even
great-grandparents. People who are just in the business of selling puppies for
a profit will often "not remember" these important facts.
If the seller does not know what a dermoid sinus is, beware. This is a
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•
•
•
•
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common genetic problem in the breed. The condition is present at birth and
considerable experience is required to detect it. A dermoid sinus can be
removed surgically, but the operation is rather major and costly. It is a
genetic condition and is likely to pop up in any litter.
If the seller tells you that "hip dysplasia is not a problem in Ridgebacks" or
that it "is not a problem in my line," beware. Although the incidence of hip
dysplasia in Ridgebacks is much lower than in many other breeds, it is still
about 3%, meaning that the chance of a given puppy developing the
condition is one in thirty! The probability of a puppy having hip dysplasia is
much reduced if both parents and all four grandparents have been x-rayed
and certified clear of the condition by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals.
If the seller is not willing to provide a written health guarantee, beware. Most
ethical breeders do provide written guarantees that cover genetic conditions
like the dermoid sinus, hip dysplasia, etc. There are enough reputable
breeders that you can certainly find a guaranteed puppy, so there is no need
to take one with no strings attached and then find in a year that you have a
$300 vet bill to remove a dermoid.
If the seller tells you that the puppy "doesn't have a ridge yet, but it will come
in later," beware. A certain number of Ridgebacks are born without ridges.
This is due to a genetic fault and reputable breeders are trying to eliminate
this characteristic from the breed gene pool. You should know that the ridge
is fully visible, in its complete form, at birth. A puppy that does not have a
ridge will never have a ridge.
If the seller tells you that he/she "doesn't make a distinction between showquality and pet-quality puppies," beware. The purpose of dog shows is to
obtain independent judgment from a number of qualified judges that a dog is
a good representative of the breed, as measured by the written breed
standard. Breeders who are sincerely trying to improve the Rhodesian
Ridgeback breed want to have their very best puppies exhibited in dog shows,
and hope that their best animals will achieve American Kennel Club
championships. Back yard breeders often tell potential customers that "show
dogs" are inbred and have genetic problems that will result in poor health.
The truth is exactly the opposite. When you buy a dog whose sire and dam
are AKC champions (as evidenced by "Ch" before the name on their names on
the registration application), you know that at least three different judges
(and usually many more) have measured these animals against the breed
standard and awarded championship credit.
Most reputable breeders make a distinction between "show-quality" and "pet-quality"
and price the dogs appropriately (show-quality dogs are usually 30-50% more
expensive than pet-quality dogs). Show-quality means that the dog has no obvious
faults that would make it difficult or impossible for the dog to achieve a
championship. With Ridgebacks, the most common faults are a defective ridge (too
short, less than or more than two crowns) and excessive white. Other faults that
might be present are kinked tail or imperfect bite. Faults of this sort are usually
cosmetic rather than functional and do not effect the health of the dog. Remember
that the breeder is making a decision that a puppy is "show quality" at a very young
age (usually seven or eight weeks of age). It takes a fair amount of experience to
make these kinds of predictions with any confidence, which is a compelling reason to
buy from a breeder who either has considerable experience in the breed, or who has
a network of friends who can serve as consultants.
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Are You Prepared For
That New Member Of The Family?
After you have thoroughly researched the Rhodesian Ridgeback breed, and before getting in touch
with any breeders, you need to ask some questions of yourself. You need to ask: Am I (we)
prepared to:
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Always keep this dog safe --- provide a safe, fenced area where it can exercise, never
permit it to run loose, never permit it to ride in the back of an open pickup truck or be
chained or tied up outside, permit no teasing or abuse by children or others when the dog is
playing in its own yard (or any other time) - such as poking sticks through the fence, yelling
at it, tossing things at it?
Give this dog enough attention and exercise and firm but loving discipline as is given to
human children? Puppies need a lot of TLC each day and as they grow they also need
exercise along with the TLC and firm discipline so that they may learn right from wrong and
become good canine citizens.
Live with shedding (although Ridgebacks don't shed as much as some long-haired breeds),
and the small amount of grooming needed for a Ridgeback - such as nails, brushing, baths,
cleaning of teeth, ears, etc., and keeping it parasite free for the next 10 to 15 years?
Spend the amount of money required to provide proper veterinary care, including but
certainly not limited to: vaccines, heartworm testing and preventative, spaying or neutering,
annual checkups, and any medications required for any illness the dog may contract? Or the
surgery required if the dog swallows something that could injure its internal organs? Or hip
and elbow x-rays?
Keep the breeder informed and up to date on this dog's accomplishments and problems?
Take questions to the breeder or other appropriate professionals before they become
problems that are out of hand?
Have the patience to accept (and enjoy) the trials of Ridgeback puppy hood which can last
for up to two or three years, and each stage thereafter? To become educated about the
proper care of the breed and correct training methods?
Continue to accept responsibility for the dog despite inevitable life changes such as new
babies (human), kids going off to school, moving, etc.?
Resist impulse buying, and instead have the patience to make a responsible choice of a
puppy?
If you can answer "yes" to ALL of the above you are ready to start seriously contacting breeders.
Start early because most responsible breeders have a waiting list ranging from a few months to a
couple of years. Remember, the right puppy or adult dog IS worth waiting for!
Rescue Dogs --- Rescue dogs may or may not be responsibly bred. However, since in many
instances they are adults, or older puppies, it is easier for rescuers to evaluate them for any signs
of a problem before you fall in love with one of them - something that can't be done with a puppy.
This is only one of the many advantages to adopting a Rescue Dog!
The members listed in this directory have paid for the opportunity to advertise herein. The club
does not endorse or recommend any breeder, nor does it guarantee the puppies or services of any
breeder. This directory is designed for the convenience of prospective owners of Rhodesian
Ridgebacks trying to locate a puppy or a grown dog, or for those seeking a stud service or a rescue
dog. Since the club makes no recommendations, it is suggested that a potential buyer or breeder
contact several of the breeders in this directory in order to develop a frame of reference. As you
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interview a breeder, look for a person who is dedicated to the improvement of the breed, who only
breeds when they feel they can make an improvement in their already show-quality breeding
stock, and someone who does not produce Ridgebacks for profit. Be advised that everyone who
advertises in this directory has agreed to abide by the Club's Code of Ethics, as printed herein.
More specifically, they have agreed to the following conditions:
1. Will x-ray the hips of all breeding stock.
2. For breeding purposes, will use only dogs free of hip dysplasia.
3. Have obtained an OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) certification of clear hips, or an
OFA Preliminary x-ray.
4. Agree to abide by the Club's Bylaws, Code of Ethics and the regulations of The American
Kennel Club.
ANYONE WHO DEVIATES IN ANY FASHION FROM THE CODE OF ETHICS SHOULD BE
AVOIDED
There are several things you should expect to receive when you purchase a puppy or an older dog
from a breeder in this directory:
1. The AKC Registration Application, completed and signed by the breeder, should be provided
2.
3.
4.
5.
to you at the time you take the puppy home. The papers are never to be sold separately
from the puppy. If there is a co-ownership agreement involved, be certain that you fully
understand the impact of the co-ownership and that you receive a copy of any contract or
agreement that you sign. All co-owners have a legal right to the dog.
The Medical Record, containing puppy's date of birth and dates of inoculations and
wormings, on the veterinarian's letterhead or medical jacket with his name, address, and
phone number, so that he may be contacted if necessary. A 48-hour health guarantee is
standard, giving you time to have the puppy checked by your own veterinarian to assure its
health.
A Pedigree, signed by the breeder, containing the AKC registration numbers of the pup's
parents and any available registration and OFA numbers of the puppy's ancestors. Photos of
parents are optional, but always a nice touch. You should ask to see the OFA certificate for
each of the parents, and the breeder should be able to give you the OFA history of all the
dogs in the pedigree.
An Instruction Sheet, giving the quantity of food the puppy has been eating, the brand of
food recommended by the breeder, and the schedule on which the puppy has been fed. This
is very important, since verbal instructions are quite often forgotten as you concentrate all
of your attention on the new puppy and taking it home.
A small supply of puppy's current food and a gallon jug of puppy's water, to be replaced by
your water as the puppy drinks, so that the puppy will not suffer digestive upset from the
change.
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Frequently Asked Questions
About the Rhodesian Ridgeback
From: http://www.rrcus.org/assets/html/breedinfo/RRFAQ.htm
How is the Ridgeback around children? Other pets? As a watchdog?
The Ridgeback is extremely tolerant and an excellent companion for children. However, no
child should be left unsupervised around any dog, as either may hurt the other, even
unintentionally. Children and puppies should be supervised as well as young puppies have
the jaw power of a German Shepherd and teeth as sharp as surgical scalpels! Due to its
large size, younger and more excitable Ridgebacks may knock over smaller children by
accident.
The Ridgeback is a gregarious animal, enjoying the company of other dogs. Beware of
having several male dogs -- this can lead to dominance struggles (as is true with several
males of many breeds). They can be good with cats if brought up with them, but fiercely
effective in defending their territory from stray dogs and cats. The Ridgeback is an
excellent natural watchdog and family protector, requiring only that the owner has control
over it.
Are they noisy? Do they have any bad habits?
Ridgebacks tend to bark only when there is something worthwhile to bark at (unless one
has fallen into this bad habit out of boredom). They are very athletic, easily able to clear
high fences. The owner must take proper precautions to see that this does not occur.
Proficient swimmers, they can be an annoyance if the owner does not want them in the
pool! They are not usually nuisance diggers, but can create large pits to escape summer
heat if left out of doors. A Ridgeback can become a roamer out of boredom. Dogs who
roam often fall victim to automobiles -- another reason to have a properly fenced yard.
When going through teething periods, at young ages to about 4-½ months and again at
around eight to10 months. Ridgebacks can be quite destructive if not provided with things
that you want them to chew on, such as safe and fun toys, bones, hard plastic kongs etc.
Crate training may be essential in order to keep an unsupervised, adolescent Ridgebacks in
check.
Is the Ridgeback a good house-dog?
The Ridgeback is an extremely clean dog with little odor and minimal shedding. Its short,
dense coat sheds little. In general, a Ridgeback kept indoors sheds a little all year round,
whereas an outside one will experience seasonal shedding. They do not drool, except in
anticipation of food. They are generally easy to housetrain and are not overactive in the
house. They will take over the furniture unless their owners discourage this habit from
puppy hood. A happily wagging tail will easily clear a low coffee table of its contents.
All Ridgebacks benefit from training at an early age not to jump on tables or counters with
their front paws. Ridgebacks can be notorious "counter surfers" once they discover people
food left unattended. Ridgebacks who who live with their owners as valued members of the
family and are taught manners as youngsters are among the finest companions in the dog
world.
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Are there any special feeding problems?
Most Ridgebacks have very hardy appetites! They can drool a bit when their food is being
prepared. Ridgebacks inhale their food enthusiastically. Consequently, Ridgeback owners
must monitor their dog’s weight and cut back, as appropriate, to prevent obesity.
Sometimes a good cupboard lock is needed to keep a clever dog from helping itself. You
will definitely need to steel your heart to keep those pleading faces from convincing you
they are STILL hungry…remember, Ridgebacks are always hungry!
How much exercise does a Ridgeback need?
Like any medium-large dog, Ridgebacks need exercise -- a daily romp in the back yard or
park and a couple of longer trips to the park per week should be sufficient. More would be
better, but Ridgebacks do adapt to their people.
For real excitement and fun, check out "Starting Your Dog in Performance Events."
Ridgebacks excel at lure coursing and agility -- two fun activities a which dog and owner
can work as a team.
Are they energetic or hyper?
A young Ridgeback is a very energetic fellow. But as Ridgebacks mature, most of them
become much more laid back. One author calls them the "kings of dozing." Some say that a
mature Ridgeback is happiest when either running flat out across a field or flat out asleep
at your feet. In general, they mature into lovely calm dogs that do well when raised with
children and other pets.
Where does that ridge on their back come from?
The Rhodesian Ridgeback's ancestry includes a dog native to Southern Africa -- a tribal
dog, a companion and a hunter, with a ridge of hair growing backwards down its back.
European settlers brought with them their hunting dogs, they, in turn, intermingled with
the native ridged dogs. The ridge factor is fairly dominant and many a big game hunter
discovered these "ridged dogs" had exceptional hunting ability and temperament. The
hunters began to select specifically for the ridge and thus, the breed was born.
Where did the ridge originate?
No one knows for sure, but a plausible theory is that tribes living along the west coast had
a lively trade with Asian sea-faring people. Prior to the arrival of the Europeans, these East
African tribes had cattle, goats and sheep of Asian stock and it's conceivable that their dogs
and the trader's dogs interbred. Some believe that the RR and the Thai Ridgeback are both
related through an ancestor from the island of Phu Quoc, as both breeds share two genetic
traits -- ridges and the dermoid sinus.
Were they really used to hunt lions?
Yes. When the breed was imported to Rhodesia, the big game hunters of the time found
them to be excellent hunters and used them to hunt lions. They were found to be the only
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breed of dog that could, in a pack, keep a lion at bay for the hunter...and live.
Although gaining notoriety as the hunter of the King of Beasts, basically, the Ridgeback in
Africa was an all-purpose dog, kept by farmers to guard the home and herds and to do a
bit of hunting.
Are they good for general hunting?
Not in the United States. The Ridgeback has been used successfully in hunting bobcat,
mountain lion, bear, fox, squirrel, coyote, deer, wild boar and raccoon in the U.S., Canada
and Mexico. There have been reports of Ridgebacks having been train to point upland game
and retrieve game and fowl, but their true talents lie in cornering the prey for the hunter to
finish off. As a rule, they are silent trailers and only bay once the prey is sighted. For this
reason, Ridgebacks are not used alone to hunt deer, fox or raccoon unless they have a bell
around their necks for location purposes. They can be hunted with breeds which are more
vocal on a trail.
Nowadays, fewer states allow hunting with dogs in general, so most of today’s Ridgebacks
are content to keep the backyard squirrel-free or to chase rabbits in a field. Most Ridgeback
enthusiasts do their "hunting" these days on the lure coursing field chasing a white plastic
bag! Lure coursing is a thrilling sport and fun for all the family to watch. Read all about it
in "Starting Your Dog in Performance Events."
Do Ridgebacks have any genetic problems?
Yes. The dermoid sinus, hip and elbow dysplasia, thyroid problems and cataracts are the
most common. It’s very important check to see if a puppy’s parents have been checked for
these abnormalities. If they have, the breeder will be able to show you Othopedic
Foundation for Animals certifications ("OFA"). (OFA numbers are also listed on the AKC
registration papers, if the puppy's parents were screened.) The breeder should also be able
to show you the paperwork for Canine Eye Registration Foundation ("CERF") and reports
showing the results of thyroid and/or heart screenings. Read more on the dermoid sinus
elsewhere on this site.
How long do Ridgebacks live?
From 10 to 12 years is a good average. Some Ridgebacks have lived up to 16 years. As
with all dogs, good health may be compromised by poor dental health and lack of
veterinary care. A vigilant owner watches out for unusual lumps or behavior in their pet,
which can be precursors to illness.
What should I expect when I contact a breeder?
When you initially contact a breeder, you should expect quite a few questions about why
you think you might want a Ridgeback, what kinds of dogs you’ve had before, what your
facilities are like, what kind of lifestyle you live, etc. Your responses to all of these
questions help the breeder determine which of their puppies might be best for you or to see
if you have an unrealistic expectation of a Ridgeback’s temperament. They are NOT Golden
Retrievers in a short coat!
The breeder will also want to know if you are looking for just a great companion or if you
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are interested in conformation shows, obedience trials or other performance events.
Breeders generally separate, or "grade," puppies as pet or show potential. There may be
things about the puppy that might hinder it’s show career, such as an uneven crown in the
ridge, extra crowns or very miniscule things particular to show dogs, e.g., the angle of the
upper arm, the length of the front legs. These are things that would never be known to
anyone except a dog show judge or a Ridgeback breeder. Since breeders strive hard to
produce that "perfect" Ridgeback, even the puppies labeled as "pets" should be superior
examples. Just because a puppy has a "show fault" does not make it an inferior pet. It will
still love to go for walks and to play, it will have kisses to give and a wagging tail to greet
you and it will still be able to give that unconditional love that only dogs can!
What should I expect to get from the breeder when I pick up my puppy?
When you get your puppy, you should get a "puppy packet." Items included should be a
contract and/or guarantee, that puppy’s health certificate or veterinary record, a pedigree
the AKC registration application, or "blue slip." In addition, most breeders will provide you
with a couple of days of food, some water if you have to travel a distance and a sample of
any medication or heartworm preventative, if necessary. Some people microchip their
puppies before leaving and they will provide you with the information you will need to
complete the forms. If you are buying a puppy just as a companion, most breeders will
include a spay/neuter clause as Ridgeback Rescue strongly urges that pets be spayed or
neutered to prevent unplanned and unwanted litters.
A word of caution: Be sure to read and discuss the contract or guarantee BEFORE you take
the dog home. If for any reason, you are uncomfortable with the terms, please tell the
breeder. You may be able to arrange more agreeable terms, if not do not buy the dog.
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Ridgeback Health ~
From : http://rhodesianridgebackhealth.org/beforeyoubuy.html
This information is intended to help prospective owners navigate what may seem at
first like an overwhelming task – finding a well-bred Rhodesian Ridgeback puppy
whose breeder has made health a top concern in his or her breeding program.
Locating a Reputable Breeder
A good place to begin your search for a breeder is the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of
the United States’ (RRCUS) Breeders’ Directory.
While membership in a parent club is not a guarantee that a breeder is reputable
(just as not being a member does not mean a breeder is disreputable), RRCUS
breeders are exposed to a variety of educational materials and club-sponsored
seminars that are aimed at increasing their knowledge, especially regarding health
and genetics.
At minimum, a breeder should a.) perform health screenings b.) require in writing
that all pet-quality puppies be spayed and neutered; c.) request health updates on
the pup at regular intervals, and d.) request immediate notification if a health
concern (or any other concern) presents itself.
Remember that a breeder is more than just someone who whelped your puppy and
raised it for the first eight weeks of its life. A breeder should be a resource and a
mentor, someone to whom you can turn if you have a question or concern at any
point in your dog’s life. And while a breeder can never guarantee that your dog will
be free of problems, a good one will want to know what those problems are, so they
can be avoided in future generations.
Congenital Problems
Ridgelessness and dermoid sinus are the two most common congenital conditions
seen in the newborn Ridgeback puppy.
Because of the manner in which the ridge is inherited, some Ridgebacks are born
without the signature trait that gives the breed its name. Healthwise, these puppies
are no different from their ridged siblings. But because they lack this hallmark
breed trait, ridgeless puppies cannot be shown or bred. Many breeders will sell their
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“slickbacks” as pets on limited AKC registrations and should mandate that they be
spayed and neutered.
A reputable Ridgeback breeder will never tell you that a ridge will “grow in later.” A
ridgeless puppy will never develop a ridge. In ridged puppies, the ridge that is
present at birth is the same ridge that the dog will have its entire life. From length
to width to the placement of crowns, or whorls, the ridge will grow proportionately
into adulthood.
Dermoid sinus is a dermatological defect in which a tube-like opening onto the skin
will become repeatedly infected and abscessed unless surgically corrected. Many
veterinarians remove the dermoid when the puppy is 8 weeks or older; however,
some veterinarians experienced at performing this surgery on dozens, if not
hundreds of Ridgebacks advocate operating as soon as possible a few days after
birth for the best results.
Breeders should have dermoid surgery performed on affected puppies before they
go to their new homes, and the pups should be well on their way to recovery before
you take them home.
Health Screenings
For any breeder, performing health screenings is an important part of the breeding
process. In general, reputable breeders do not want to breed affected animals that
have a very high likelihood of passing the disorder on to their offspring. This is why
they perform health screenings.
The following health screenings are the requirements of the Canine Health
Information Center, or CHIC, for health-testing Rhodesian Ridgebacks, and are a
helpful guideline for the kind of health testing you should inquire about on the sire
and dam of a litter. Having a knowledge of these tests can help you formulate and
ask questions of the breeders you speak to, and help you find the breeder whose
approach is right for you.
Hip and Elbow Screenings
Responsible breeders screen all their breeding stock for hip and elbow dysplasia
using an independent registry such as the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals
(OFA), the University of Pennsylvania Hip Improvement Program (Penn-HIP) or the
Ontario Veterinary College Hip and/or Elbow certification program (OVC).
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All these registries rely on a panel of independent orthopedic specialists and
radiologists to review and grade the X-rays submitted by the breeder’s veterinarian.
This is much more accurate and impartial than a letter of “clearance” issued by a
regular vet, which is not considered adequate by most purebred-dog parent breed
clubs.
At minimum, a reputable Rhodesian Ridgeback breeder screens for hip and elbow
dysplasia and will be pleased to show you the OFA, Penn-HIP or OVC certificates on
both the sire and dam of the litter – and often of their parents and grandparents as
well.
Hip and elbow screenings are required only once in the life of the dog.
Thyroid screenings
This testing is done to ensure the dogs are free from heritable thyroiditis. While
hypothyroidism is not life-threatening and is easily treated with daily medication, its
prevalence in the breed is a concern: Ridgebacks rank # 8 in the OFA’s list of
breeds most often diagnosed as affected, and hypothyroidism is the #1 health
problem reported in the RRCUS health survey.
While some breeders have their thyroid panels interpreted by the OFA (and
subsequently have the results posted on the OFA web site), others do not, instead
choosing alternate means of interpreting the panel results. Because the three
values required for a “pass” on the thyroid panel can fluctuate, and because some
values are more important for the accurate diagnosis of heritable thyroiditis than
others, some breeders choose to have a veterinary endocrinologist or pathologist
assess their dog’s thyroid status. Other may turn to a veterinarian with a nuanced
and breed-specific understanding of thyroid disease (such as Dr. Jean Dodds of
Hemopet), a Rhodesian Ridgeback breeder-veterinarian, or their personal
veterinarian familiar with autoantibody profiles.
In the absence of an OFA Thyroid clearance, a breeder should be able to discuss the
results of current and previous thyroid panels on the sire and dam of the puppy
with you and present authoritative documentation of the normal thyroid status and
lack of evidence of heritable thyroid disease. This should be plainly written and
easily understood.
Thyroid evaluations are recommended regularly on dogs in active breeding
programs.
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Eye screenings
Though vision-impairing eye problems are not widespread in our breed, there is an
incidence of juvenile cataracts. While this disorder does not progress to cause vision
impairment or blindness, researchers tell us that breeding affected dogs can and
will lead to more serious manifestations of the disease down the line. A breeder
screening his or her breeding stock for eye disorders and not breeding dogs with
cataracts or other eye problems ensures that such disorders will not become
entrenched in the breed.
The independent registry that screens dogs for ophthalmologic disorders is the
Canine Eye Registration Foundation, or CERF. You can search this link for eye
exams on the sire and dam. CERF exams are recommended regularly on dogs in
active breeding programs.
As with thyroid, not all breeders choose to pay additional funds to have their results
posted to the CERF registry, relying instead on the assessment given by the
ophthalmologist performing the examination. Again, as with thyroid, a breeder
should be able to discuss the outcome of this eye exam, and show you paperwork
that demonstrates the dog in question has passed.
Optional screenings
In addition to the four areas of testing mentioned above, some breeders obtain
clearances to show that their dogs are free of heart problems (OFA Cardiac
clearance) as well as hearing deficiencies (Brain Auditory Evoked Response, or
BAER, test).
Heart abnormalities and deafness are relatively uncommon problems in the
Rhodesian Ridgeback, though cases do exist. Breeders who choose to do these tests
are indeed going the extra mile for the breed.
To learn more about Ridgeback Health, please visit:
http://rhodesianridgebackhealth.org/index2.shtml
http://rhodesianridgebackhealth.org/resources.html
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BUYING A PURE-BRED PUPPY
As with any expensive purchase, buying a pure-bred puppy requires a great deal of forethought. You
must consider the care, attention and exercise required, also the costs of feeding and medical care.
Remember, like most things in life, purchasing a pet has both an up side and a down side. Playing
ball with your dog in the park is fun, stooping and scooping is not.
Getting a pet is not a decision to be taken lightly. Some of the questions your family should first
resolve include:
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Who will feed and walk Rover everyday?
Do you have the time and desire to train a dog?
Can you afford the cost of food and vet bills?
What happens to Lady when you go on vacation?
Can your home accommodate a pet?
Are you prepared for a 10-12 year commitment?
Dogs have feelings too. A visit to your local Humane Society will soon impress upon you what
happens to man's best friend when they are acquired in haste.
CHOOSE THE PET THAT BEST SUITS YOUR LIFESTYLE AND THE LAYOUT OF YOUR HOME
Size
A large Labrador Retriever with a thick tail is not a good idea if you live in a small condominium or
apartment filled with knick-knacks. One quick sweep of the tail and Grandma's porcelain will be
history.
Coat
Also consider the coat you will find on your new pet. Labradors who are inside dogs tend to shed all
year long with the bulk of coat loss in spring and fall.
Perhaps you are allergic to dog hair? There are some breeds who do not loose their hair at all and
are clipped instead on a regular basis.
Why buy a Pure-Bred
The advantage of a pure-bred is that they are bred to meet certain standards of size and
temperament. Be sure that the breed you choose is an actual breed. There are many popular crossbreeds on the market which are often sold with the implication that they are a pure-bred dog.
What breed is best
By familiarizing yourself with your breed, you will avoid any surprises. Be sure to research your
particular breed in advance. Different breeds have their own characteristics and temperament.
Shop Around
Shop around at different kennels before deciding on a puppy and try to resist the first pair of
appealing brown eyes. The condition of the dogs in the kennel and the kennel itself will be an
indication of the quality of the breeder. Buying a puppy is a very risky business these days. Under
no circumstances do you EVER buy from a pet shop. Not even because you feel sorry for
the animals.
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WHAT A BREEDER SHOULD BE WILLING TO OFFER YOU (IN ADDITION TO A PUPPY)
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Every breeder should have a breed standard on hand and they should be able to point out
major, minor and disqualifying faults.
They should be aware of the major breed problems. Every breed has some. These are
problems that occur in the breed with more or less frequency that all decent breeders try to
eradicate. Labradors have problems with Hip Dysplasia (CHD), Elbow Dysplasia,
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and to a lesser extent Epilepsy and Heart Disease.
The breeder should know their own pedigrees well. They should know the faults their own
lines may carry. All lines have some faults. They should be willing to put in writing what they
will do if your puppy develops any of these problems.
Ask for proof of any testing the breeder has claimed to have done. Ask to see the OFA
papers to prove their dogs have been x-rayed free of Hip Dysplasia AND Elbow Dysplasia. If
they do not have the OFA rating, they should still have proof from a veterinarian that their
dogs have been x-rayed and found free of CHD and ED. Be aware that a majority of vets do
not know what dysplastic hips actually look like on x-ray. What they may feel looks normal,
the OFA would consider dysplastic. If they cannot produce these papers, (on both parents),
do not buy the puppy. Do not be taken in with lines such as "my dog has never limped" or
"my vet said it was unnecessary". If a breeder claims to never have bred a problem, either
they haven't been breeding very long or are stretching the truth. EVERY breeder will produce
a problem sooner or later, no matter how careful you are in planning a litter.
Also ask to see all certification that the parents have been checked within the last 12 months
for PRA. A regular veterinarian cannot check for this, it must be done by a Canine
Ophthalmologist (dog eye doctor). These veterinarians usually have the initials ACVO
(American College of Veterinary Opthalmology) somewhere after their name. Again, if they
cannot produce these papers (on both parents), do not buy the puppy. Breeding stock
must be checked yearly for their eyes. Again, beware of excuses.
Ask for references such as past puppy buyers, other breeders, trainers, vets, breed club
affiliations, etc. Then follow up on the references.
Beware of the hard sell breeder or the one who appears too willing to part with their puppies.
Decisions to sell a puppy should not be made based on telephone conversations alone. A
reputable breeder will be keen on interviewing you.
Breeders should provide some sort of written instructions on caring for your new puppy. Most
will give you 48-72 hours to have the puppy checked by your own vet and if necessary return
or exchange the pup.
Puppies should not be released to their new homes before 7 weeks of age and should have
had their first set of vaccinations (Parvo/Distemper). If the puppy is older, vaccinations
should be completely up to date.
To protect your rights, ensure that the sales contract indicates the breed of dog, that is is
pure-bred and eligible for registration by the American Kennel Club, Canadian Kennel Club,
United Kennel Club or which other registry the breeder is claiming.
Ask to see the contract/guarantee before you leave a deposit or purchase the puppy. Some
guarantees/contracts give the puppy buyer the run-around and don't actually cover anything.
Some make the puppy buyer put down/euthanize the dog before the breeder will pay off on
even a case of mild dysplasia. READ THE CONTRACT THOROUGHLY
Ask to see the dam (mother) and the sire as well if he is on the premises. Beware of the
breeder who either doesn't allow you to see the dam or says the dam is not there. This
person might not be the actual breeder but someone who buys whole litters for resale.
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Registration of a Pure-Bred Dog
At the time of purchase, you should receive the litter registration paper. A litter registration paper
indicates the breed, date of birth, registered names and numbers of the sire and dam and the name
and address of the breeder. Make sure that all the information on this paper matches the
information that the breeder has told you. Beware if the birth date on the paper is not the same as
the breeder has told you.
If the litter certificate is not avilable, check the individual certificates of the dam and sire to ensure
that they are indeed AKC/CKC/UKC registered (or other registry) and registered in the name of their
owners. Take note of their registered names and numbers. If the paper is not available ask
questions as to why and when it will be available to you. If the breeder is evasive, do not buy the
puppy. If the registration paper is not available, get it in writing that the breeder will send it to you
within a certain amount of time (30 days) or refund fully/partially your purchase price. This is your
only legal recourse.
Some breeders will not release the litter registration paper until the first 48-72 hours are over, until
your check clears the bank or until you spay/neuter the dog. Again, you should have something in
writing that the breeder will release the papers to you after this time.
If you are buying the puppy as a show or breeding animal, get it in writing. Any terms included with
this purchase should be in writing. If the breeder guarantees the puppy for health, hips, eyes, etc,
be sure to get everything in writing. Again, this is your only legal recourse.
Be aware that AKC/CKC/UKC registration (or any other registry) does not mean quality. It only
means that your dog is a pure-bred. Remember, "Pet Quality" puppies should be considered as
just that! Even litters from very well bred parents usually contain only a few "show or breeding"
quality puppies. The rest of the litter, sold as pets can well supply the pet-buying public without any
lessening of the breed standards, providing that the buyers realize that, while pure-bred, these
individuals are not breeding stock. You might not be able to tell the difference between a "show or
breeding quality" and a "pet quality" dog, but there are differences. Your pet will still be a
delightful companion, but it might have some minor "fault" not desirable in a breeding animal.
Spayed and neutered dogs make better family companions and their chances for some cancers are
lessened. In fact most reputable breeders will insist that pets be sold on a spay/neuter contract
or on a limited registration.
03/2010
HOW TO RECOGNIZE A REPUTABLE DOG BREEDER
by Linda Hazen Lewin
So, you've decided the pet for you is a purebred dog...good for you! Maybe. The
question is, how do you find a reputable breeder? There are so many ads in the
newspaper and so much conflicting information, and most of the books you read only
mention the positive characteristics of the various breeds. (Common sense tells you
every breed can't be as perfect as it is described!) How do you find someone who will
be honest with you about their breed so you can make a truly informed choice?
The following are some of the typical characteristics of a reputable breeder:
1. Reputable breeders only produce a litter with the goal of improving their breed and
with the full intent of keeping a puppy from the litter with which to continue their
efforts. They do not breed to make money, to supply the pet market during a wave of
breed popularity, to give the kids a sex education, or simply because they happen to
have two dogs of the same breed on the premises. These last are all spurious reasons to
add more dogs to the current population. If the breeder has produced a litter for a silly
reason, beware!
2. Reputable breeders nearly always belong to a local or national breed club and they
actively compete with their dogs. Competitions include licensed dog shows, field
trials, obedience trials, herding trials, tracking events, earth dog trials and sled dog
racing (among others). Reputable breeders know that AKC registration alone does not
confer or imply quality or breeding value, any more than a DMV registration means
you have a top quality car. Competition with other well-bred dogs helps to gauge
whether a given dog is worthy of being bred; whether it offers its breed virtues that are
worth reproducing. If the breeder does not belong to any dog organizations or compete
with their dogs, beware!
3. Reputable breeders are willing and eager to spend time with you, explaining,
teaching and advising you about their breed. They will make the disadvantages of
owning their breed crystal clear, and it may be the first topic of conversation! No
breed is perfect for everyone, and the responsible breeder wants to be absolutely sure
that you really want, and are prepared to care for, this kind of dog for the life of the
dog, not just during the "cute puppy stage". If the breeder does not go into breed
peculiarities, beware!
4. Reputable breeders will screen you carefully, to assure your suitability for owning
their breed. They will not sell a large, active dog to an apartment dweller or to
someone without a fence, for example, nor a tiny toy dog to a home with small
children. It is cruel to place a dog in an unsuitable home, and unethical to strap people
with an unsuitable dog. A reputable breeder will refuse a sale, regardless of any
personal financial strain or the amount of work involved, rather than place any dog in
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an unworkable situation. If the breeder does not question you closely about your
home, your family, and your expectations of the dog, beware!
5. Reputable breeders sell only healthy stock, fully vetted, and guaranteed for some
reasonable length of time after the sale. Their dogs are tested for any genetic
deficiencies which can be detected by the age at which the dog is sold. Puppies should
never be offered for sale any younger than 7 weeks of age, and preferably 8 weeks. If
they are, you may be sure they have not had all their shots. Adult dogs offered for sale
should be completely up to date on shots, recently wormed and heartworm-tested.
Records of all veterinary treatments and testing should be offered to you in writing. If
vaccinations are not complete and up to date, breed-appropriate testing for genetic
defects hasn't been done (or the breeder says "Oh, that's not a problem in this breed"
when you know it is), puppies are offered for sale at an extremely young age, or the
breeder's dogs appear unwell, beware!
6. Reputable breeders offer, or even require, that any dog they sell be returned to them
if your situation changes so that you cannot keep the dog. This applies whether the
dog is 10 weeks old or 10 years old. No responsible breeder wants their dogs to end
life in the pound, on the streets, or shuffled from one unsuitable home to another
because the dog's family can't keep it any longer. Many breeders are also involved, on
some level, in breed "rescue" work. When notified, they spend their own time and
money to collect the abandoned dog, have it vetted, trained and socialized if necessary,
and find it a loving home. While a breeder might not specifically mention involvement
in rescue work, if he or she cranks out multiple litters a year, acts as a broker, or makes
no mention of taking a dog back from you if your situation changes, chances are they
are more concerned with taking your money than with taking responsibility for the
puppies they have produced...beware!
7. Reputable breeders stay in touch with you on a regular basis to see how you're
getting on with your new dog. They do not just sell you the dog and then disappear,
leaving you to cope with problems on your own. This is probably the greatest
advantage to buying your dog from an experienced breeder. You not only get a
healthy, well-adjusted companion, you also get a lifetime of information, advice and
assistance from an expert who cares deeply about your success with the animal he has
sold to you. If the breeder takes the stance that "all sales are final", beware!
Remember, it is up to you, the purchaser, to make your choice wisely and to do your
homework. Talk at length with as many breeders as possible, quiz each one on the
above items and about their breed, and look at lots of dogs. A reputable breeder will
be impressed and reassured that you are concerned about what you are doing, rather
than impulse-buying. Find a breeder with whom you are comfortable, and whose dogs
you like, and pick out your dream pet. Result: everybody wins!
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Breeder Characteristics
Trait
Puppy
Mill
Commercial
Breeder
Backyard
Breeder
Reputable
Hobby
Breeder
Reputable
Experienced
Breeder
Motive for
Breeding
To make a
profit
To supply the
demand & make
a profit
To produce
puppies for profit,
often for the kids,
or to have another
just like one of the
parents.
To better the
breed &
continue a
well thought
out plan.
To perfect a specific type
to leave a legacy.
Breed Club
Member
Hardly ever
Has a network of
business
contacts instead.
May masquerade
as a member
Yes &
Extremely
dedicated
Yes & very active,
generally an officer
Mentor
Not interested
in breed
improvement
Does not
specialize in
specific breed
Works
independently,
lacks guidance
Invites
knowledge
Is a mentor, writes
books/articles, conducts
seminars
Breeds to the
Standard
Uses any
available
stock.
Focuses on
general
appearance.
May not even know
what it is. Breeds
to any convenient
dog.
Strives
towards the
ideal
Often helps to define it.
Activity in
dog related
activities
(shows,
trials,
rescues)
Does not need
to promote
establishment;
sells to
brokers--pet
shops, etc.
Does not need to
promote
establishment,
sells to brokers,
pet shops etc.
Often rescues only
to attain more
stock. Rarely
attends shows or
trials
Shows and
trials to prove
worth Shows
& trials to
objectively
test breeding
stock.
Often judges, provides
seminars, writes articles,
and willingly mentors
serious Hobby Breeders.
Knowledge
of the Breed
Often
pretends to
know some.
Claims that it's
not important.
May share
false/incomplete
info
Studies
continuously
Impacts the breed for
many decades with
knowledge of dogs over
many generations.
Sells pets
with
spay/neuter
contract and
tries to stay
in touch with
new owners
Often issues
papers via
generic
"registries"
All pups sold
have full
breeding rights.
May charge more
for "breeding"
papers.
Yes, and
diligently
follows up on
progeny
Always differentiates
breed/pet quality and
insists on frequent
updates
Keeps up
with health
and
temperament
issues
affecting the
breeding and
provides in
depth
guarantees
No need to,
mostly
supplies
brokers and
pet shops
Meets minimum
standards as
required by state
law.
May refuse to
acknowledge most
problems.
Considers shows
and trials as too
"political".
Goes above
and beyond
standard
requirement
Maintains a solid support
system -accepts full
responsibility for every
puppy produced
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Breeder Characteristics
Reputable
Hobby
Breeder
Reputable
Experienced
Breeder
Puppy
Mill
Commercial
Breeder
Backyard
Breeder
Performs
health
testing for all
breeding
stock for
genetic
diseases
affecting the
particular
breed.
No interest
may offer
papers as
proof of
quality.
No interest May
provide
undocumented
paperwork for
appearances
sake.
Is unfamiliar with
health testing
usually statements
of good health are
stated to impress
consumers.
Intensive
testing always
a priority
Often initiates club
sponsored seminars and
clinics.
Maintains
records on
all dogs in
gene pool
including
progeny.
Often supplies
brokers and
pet shops,
records
unavailable.
Dogs and
puppies are
often auctioned
off in lots,
records
unavailable
Focuses mostly on
current dogs, no
records or
knowledge of
genes.
Attempts to
continuously
track every
puppy
produced
Bases entire breeding
program on extensive
gene pool data.
Clean
environment
always
maintained
Minimum
standards vary
greatly in
cleanliness.
Minimum
standards
maintained for
state
inspections.
Conditions may
vary greatly
depending on
available income,
usually makeshift
accommodations.
Usually
"home raised
with love"
and well
cared for.
Often Cluttered but
always healthy and
mentally stimulating
Expected
longevity
with any
particular
breed
Will continue
as long as the
sales are
coming.
Depends on
popularity of
specific breeds.
Unrealistic
expectations easily disillusioned.
On a missionplans to stay
for the long
haul.
Involved with the breed/
breeding for decadesmakes a lifetime
commitment
Health
Guarantee
provided
No cuts into
profits
7 day guarantee
mandated by
state
No health
guarantee beyond
proof of 1st set of
shots, if that. Not
qualified to give
advice if problem
arises.
Offers written
guarantee
and is
available to
answer
questions to
new owners.
Good
knowledge of
history in
dogs.
Extensive knowledge of
health history, offers
replacements to owners
of genetically affected
dogs.
Trait
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Breeder Characteristics
Reputable
Hobby
Breeder
Reputable
Experienced
Breeder
May or may not be
well loved & cared
for companions,
often unwilling to
show entire litter
or parents to
buyer.
Shows
friendly
mother and
entire litter in
clean
environment,
stud dog too
if in
residence.
Helps buyer
choose
appropriate
puppy.
Can explain how
breeding was planned to
emphasize specific
qualities & can speak at
length about how
puppies compare.
No concern for
dog after sale is
final.
Tells you if you
can't keep it to take
it to the pound or
shelter.
Available for
questions,
and wants to
keep in
touch. Will
take back dog
or puppy at
any time.
After purchase will help
with training and
grooming, available for
all questions and knows
the answers.
Priced according
to market, but is
marked up from
original source
for profit.
Mid Range to move
puppies quickly
High end of
mid range
Price will not reflect all
that is invested
Trait
Puppy
Mill
Commercial
Breeder
Ability to
meet the
parents of
the litter
If available,
may be in
poor physical
condition.
If available, dogs
are not used to
contact with
people.
What you
can expect
after
purchase
Nothing, may
not be able to
contact at all.
Price
Lowest End of
Range
Backyard
Breeder
From:
http://esspuppyhelp.com/esspuppyhelp/Breeder%20Characteristics.htm
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WHAT IS RESCUE?
Rhodesian Ridgeback Rescue provides for the rescue, care and adoption
of Rhodesian Ridgeback dogs in need. Through our efforts, displaced
Ridgebacks find new, loving, permanent homes. Rhodesian Ridgeback
Rescue, Inc is the official rescue program of the Rhodesian Ridgeback
Club of the United States, Inc ("RRCUS") and the Rhodesian Ridgeback
Club of Canada ("RRCC").
WHAT IS A RESCUE DOG?
First and foremost, a rescue dog is one that needs a new home! Like
people, they come from a wide variety of backgrounds and have varying
needs.
Some of the rescued Rhodesian Ridgebacks come from loving homes that can no longer keep their
cherished pets. Reasons include an owner who dies or must go into a nursing facility, families that
are forced to make a lifestyle change, such as a move overseas or into an apartment, or animals
that are given up due to divorce. In these instances, a complete background of the animal's health
and temperament is usually available.
Other Ridgebacks are given up because the owners were unprepared for the lifestyle requirements of
the breed or they did not spend the time to properly train their dogs. Again, with these animals, a
complete background of their health and temperament is usually available.
Some of the dogs in Ridgeback Rescue were obtained from animal shelters or found as homeless
strays. These dogs are placed in foster homes so Ridgeback Rescue may evaluate their temperament
and suitability for placement. They are also taken to a veterinarian for a health check-up and
immunization.
Most of the dogs that come to Ridgeback Rescue are adult dogs. Puppies are rarely available for
rescue. All rescue dogs are neutered or spayed before going to their new homes, and almost without
exception go without AKC registration papers.
IS A RESCUE THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU?
Adult dogs have several positive advantages over puppies. They are finished with their teething
period and most are already housebroken. Taking care of an adult dog is not nearly as time
consuming as raising a puppy. This is a definite plus for those who work. An adult dog's
temperament and personality is already developed so you know in advance what you are getting.
Adult dogs will bond well with their new owners, though this may take some time. Rescue dogs
frequently go through a short grieving period for their former families. They may also suffer some
separation anxiety when placed in a setting that is unfamiliar to them. There are several things,
however, that you can do to help them adjust.
The use of a crate is highly advised. Though many people think of crates as a type of jail, the dog is
a den animal and the crate ("pseudo-den") provides it a safe haven. Attending an obedience class
with your new dog is also a good way to bond with it and give it a sense of stability. Dogs, like
people, become insecure when they do not know the rules. Also, like people, they are happiest when
they know they are doing the right thing!
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Dogs that come from deprived or abusive situations have special needs. For homes with the time
and desire to work with these misfortunates, the rewards can be great.
For further information on the special needs and requirements of a rescue dog, read "Do You Have
the Right Stuff?"
ADOPT A RIDGEBACK RESCUE DOG
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DO YOU HAVE THE RIGHT STUFF?
Pre-Reading for the Adoption Application
So you love dogs, eh? We do, too, and we REALLY love Ridgebacks!
Because of our devotion to this breed, and our commitment to placing
rescued Ridgebacks in the homes they deserve, we ask that you first
read the following, then ask yourself:
"Am I (Are we) the right person (people) to adopt a Rescued
Ridgeback?"
WHAT A RESCUED RIDGEBACK DESERVES
1. A home where EVERYONE gives the dog an opportunity to live up to its potential as a great
companion. A few of the Rescued Ridgebacks come from good, loving homes that had to give
them up due to major, life-changing events. Most, however, have lived difficult lives or have
lost someone they loved very much. In either case, they often go through an adjustment
period when they join a new home, which is sometimes difficult.
2. Owners who are committed to the dog's needs -- exercise, obedience training, socialization,
understanding, patience and plenty of "quality" time. Sometimes this means you will have to
re-arrange your work or other schedules to attend the dog's needs, or arrange for someone
else to do this for you. If you work 9, 10, or more hours each day away from home, then this
might not be the best time for you to have a dog -- regardless of how much you love dogs.
3. A comfortable crate. What is a crate? A crate is a specially-made wire or plastic enclosure. It
has multiple uses that are beneficial to both you and the dog -- safe housing during transport
or while you are away from home, an effective means for housetraining, sleeping quarters,
feeding area, etc. What a crate is not -- A crate is not cruel. It is not a means of punishment.
Moreover, it is not a doghouse in the yard. To the dog, a crate is his/her "room" -- a place
where the dog can retire to sleep or eat or feel secure.
4. A fence, if you have a yard, or a secure, fenced area, such as a dog run, kennel, etc.
Normally, a minimum of a five foot/1.5 metre fence is necessary to contain a Ridgeback.
5. Regular exercise. This does not mean simply putting the dog out in the back yard. It means
your commitment to a regular schedule of walks, runs, playing with other dogs, and playing
with you! Not only will this interaction help to strengthen the bond between you and your
Rescued Ridgeback, it will help to make a happy, healthy, well-socialized dog!
WHAT A RESCUED RIDGEBACK IS NOT
1. It is not for the entertainment of your children. Rescued Ridgebacks are rarely less than a
year or two old, and rarely have perfect temperaments or manners. While most Ridgebacks
love children, you must keep in mind that they are large dogs and can accidentally and
unintentionally knock down very young children while playing.
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2. It is not a cheap alternative to a well-bred, purebred dog. There are many expenses to
consider, including adoption fees and initial veterinary care, as well as the ongoing care of
the dog (training, feeding, healthcare, etc).
3. It is not an animal that you can expect to act like it has lived with you all its life. Rescued
dogs frequently have severe cases of separation anxiety or were "disposed of" by their former
owners because of destructive behaviours, lack of socialization, or lack of obedience training.
They usually require large amounts of attention and patience to help them adjust to their new
home and family. NOTE FOR CAT OWNERS: Not all Rescued Ridgebacks will be good with
cats.
If you have a question about anything you have read here, please feel free to contact the Rescue
Coordinator in your area. Contact can be found at http:/www.ridgebackrescue.org
Now, after reading the above, if you can truthfully say to yourself:
"I am (We are) the right person (people) to adopt a Rescued Ridgeback!"
then, Congratulations! -- Please proceed to the next step and send us an Online Adoption
Application. Please note that references will be checked and a Ridgeback Rescue representative
might visit your home. Online Adoption Applications can be found at http:/www.ridgebackrescue.org
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www.nerrc.org & www.rrcus.org MASSACHUSETTS
CONNECTICUT
MARSA HATFIELD
237 OLD NEW LONDON RD
SALEM, CT 06420
860-889-4768
[email protected];
[email protected]
http://www.kuluta.com
KULUTA
LINDA HOTHAN
PO BOX 242
WILLINGTON, CT 06279
860-684-4946
[email protected]
http://www.lamingtonhouse.com
LAMINGTON HOUSE, REG
CLAY LESLIE
23 CHRIS DR
UNCASVILLE, CT 06382
860-848-7629
[email protected]
TOPHAT
MICHAEL MUNCHHOF
266 WEST RD
SALEM CT, CT 06420
860-887-9635
[email protected]
http://www.paradigmrr.com
PARADIGM
DEBORAH AHERN-RIDLON
5 GATE ST
CARVER, MA 02330
781-413-4681
[email protected]
http://www.adweraridgebacks.com
ADWERA
ULLA-BRITT EKENGREN
532 GROTON ST
DUNSTABLE, MA 01827
978-649-7020
[email protected]
SHADYRIDGE
BARBARA FERGUSON
7 SHORT WAY
SANDWICH, MA 02563
508-477-2063
[email protected]
http://www.omegarr.com
OMEGA RHODESIAN
RIDGEBACKS
HELEN MCCUNE
11 DAVID LANE
EAST BRIDGEWATER, MA 02333
508-690-2049
[email protected]
http://jendayaridgebacks.com
JENDAYA
Breeders listed here are members of the New England Rhodesian Ridgeback Club and the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of
the United States, Inc.(RRCUS) and have paid to be listed in the RRCUS breeder directory. They have also agreed to
abide by the RRCUS Code of Ethics. The NERRC does not endorse or recommend any breeder listed here nor does the
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2010 New England Rhodesian Ridgeback Club Breeder’s Directory www.nerrc.org & www.rrcus.org MASSACHUSETTS cont’
EVELYN STRAWN
PO BOX 1199
PLYMOUTH, MA 02362
508-746-3206
[email protected]
ARTEMIS
NEW HAMPSHIRE
JAMES M BARRIE
P O BOX 74 369 BEEDE FLATS RD
NORTH SANDWICH, NH 032590074
603-284-7108
[email protected]
JABALIEUPE
SARAH CURTIS
506 BELKNAP MOUNTAIN RD
GILFORD, NH 03249
603-528-1151
[email protected]
CHAYIL
CATHERINE FORD
45 OLD MILFORD RD
BROOKLINE, NH 03033
603-672-5556
[email protected]
http://www.omegarr.com
OMEGA
Breeders listed here are members of the New England Rhodesian Ridgeback Club and the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of
the United States, Inc.(RRCUS) and have paid to be listed in the RRCUS breeder directory. They have also agreed to
abide by the RRCUS Code of Ethics. The NERRC does not endorse or recommend any breeder listed here nor does the
NERRC guarantee the services provided by any breeder listed in this directory.
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CODE OF ETHICS
Revised 2/96, 1/99, 1/00, 6/06, 1/10
This Code of Ethics is presented as Standards of Conduct for members of the Rhodesian Ridgeback Club of the United
States of America, Inc. (RRCUS) whose foremost aims should be the welfare and improvement of the Breed. The purpose
of the Code of Ethics is to set forth standards to which the (RRCUS) would have its members adhere, in order to further
the goals and purposes set forth in the constitution and bylaws of the RRCUS. This Code of Ethics is established to aid
them in that pursuit. These Standards of Conduct are presented with the realization that ethics are difficult to regulate and
that most individuals desire and intend to do what is right.
I. HEALTH
1. All dogs shall be kept in a clean, healthy, and safe environment.
2. Dogs will be provided with all nutrition, exercise, socialization, vaccinations, deworming, and external parasite control
and appropriate veterinary treatment necessary to provide maximum mental and physical well being.
3. When a Rhodesian Ridgeback (neonate through adult) must be euthanized, the procedure should be humanely
performed.
II. BREEDING: A breeder's aim and foremost responsibility shall be to produce the healthiest and best representatives of
the breed possible.
1. Each litter shall be the result of conscientious planning, including consideration of physical and genetic health,
soundness, temperament and conformity to the official standard of the breed as established by the RRCUS and approved
by the American Kennel Club (AKC).
a. In order to protect the health and safety of the stud dog and brood bitch (as well as resulting puppies) it is
recommended that both dog and bitch have pre-breeding veterinary screenings to certify that they are in good breeding
condition. Tests may include, but are not limited to: brucella test, urinalysis (dog), vaginal exam, and vaginal culture.
b. Only dogs screened and certified clear of hip and elbow dysplasia by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA),
Pennhip or comparable foreign registry shall be bred.
c. RRCUS has identified other strongly recommended screenings that are outlined in the Canine Information Center
(CHIC), such as a complete thyroid panel from an OFA approved laboratory or ACVIM Board certified Internal Medical
specialist, cardiac certification (OFA or cardiologist evaluation), CERF* and BAER testing, RRCUS strongly recommends
the testing be performed on all breeding stock, recognizing that a CHIC certification does not require a passing grade. If
there is a reason to believe that screening results are not accurate, repeat evaluations are recommended. Breeders shall
endeavor to stay current in their knowledge of all known heritable diseases present in the breed and demonstrate
reasonable care in eliminating those diseases. Full disclosure of all health screening results shall been made available to
all involved in a potential breeding, prior to that breeding taking place.
(*indicates annual re-test requirement)
d. Only mature adult dogs shall be used in a breeding program. Additional precautions, including a veterinarian
consultation, should be taken when breeding a bitch over seven (7) years and under 18 months of age. Dogs and bitches
under 24 months of age may only be bred if preliminary genetic clearances have been obtained (see “B” and “C above)
e. Dogs born after 2000 whose semen has been collected and frozen must meet the standards published in this current
Code of Ethics. Dogs born prior to 2000 whose semen has been collected and frozen shall only be required to be certified
free of hip dysplasia by OFA or a comparable foreign registry.
2. Only purebred, American Kennel Club (AKC) [or equivalent] registered Rhodesian Ridgebacks shall
be used for breeding.
3. A litter should only be bred with the intention of producing conformation and performance candidates and not for the pet
market alone.
4. When entering into a breeding agreement a written contract shall be signed and dated by all owners and co-owners of
the sire and dam. Full disclosure of all test results for inheritable disease shall be made available to all parties.
5. Breeders are responsible for the progeny of their dogs. They are required to assist in the placement and care of any
dog in rescue that was bred by them. For the purposes of this document “Breeder” is defined as the owner, co-owner or
lessee of the broodbitch at the time of breeding, whelping, selling and/or placing of the puppies. Stud dog owners should
be responsible for the progeny of their dogs, and are encouraged to assist in the placement and care of any dog in rescue
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that was sired by their dog. For the purposes of this document “Stud dog owner” is defined as the owner, co-owner or
lessee of the stud dog at the time of the breeding.”
III. SALES: Members must be particularly concerned with the proper placement of adults as well as puppies, both pet and
show potential.
1. Rhodesian Ridgebacks should not be displayed in public places or on the internet for the sole purpose of immediate
sale.
2. Breeders shall require purchasers to spay or neuter any dog that is not considered breedable quality and make use of
limited registrations where appropriate. When puppies with serious defects or faults (Dermoid Sinus, ridgelessness) are
sold rather than culled, the breeder must take the extra responsibility to see that the dog is spayed or neutered. Dermoid
surgery should be performed prior to placing the pup in a new home.
3. Members will not knowingly furnish puppies or adult dogs for wholesale, pet shops, puppy brokers, commercial
facilities, guard dog businesses or agents thereof, or dispose of them as “Give away” prizes or auction items; neither will
they sell puppies to nor breed to dogs owned by those whom they have reason to believe may do so.
4. Members will not dispose of dogs or puppies by giving them to the local animal shelter, pound, humane society or any
organization of that type.
5. AKC (or equivalent) Registration papers or a bill of sale stating sire, dam, and date of birth shall accompany puppies as
they go to new homes.
6. Breeders shall furnish the buyer with written details on feeding, dates of inoculations, deworming, and general care of
the dog and the name and address of a licensed veterinarian who has examined the puppy after the age of six weeks.
Furthermore, full written disclosure of inheritable disease testing done on both sire and dam shall be enclosed in the
puppy packet when the puppy leaves the breeder’s home.
7. Responsibility of the breeder does not stop with the sale. The breeder should be available for consultation and to assist
in the recovery and placement of any dog sold by the breeder if such need arises at any time in the dogs’ life.
IV. REGISTRATION AND RECORDS
a. All members shall keep complete and accurate records of individual dogs, breedings, litters, pedigrees, and puppy
sales as required by the AKC, and abide by the AKC rules and regulations.
b. Whenever a dog changes in ownership all parties shall enter into a signed and dated written agreement.
V. CONDUCT: Members shall do all within their power to uphold, promote and protect the interests of the breed by
conducting themselves in a manner reflecting credit on the Club, its members, their dogs, and the dog world in general.
1. Members shall abide by the rules and regulations of the AKC (or the rules under which an event is held), and exhibit in
the spirit of good sportsmanship, treating all present with respect and courtesy.
2. Hotels and show grounds shall be treated with respect and left in a clean condition.
3. Consideration of other guests in the hotel is imperative, dogs creating a disturbance are to be attended to immediately,
and precautions taken to see that it does not happen again.
4. A member does not engage in false or misleading statements regarding a judge, official, exhibitor, fellow member,
another dog, or misrepresentation of their own dogs through claims or advertising.
5. Documented misconduct or violation of this Code of Ethics should objectively and calmly be presented to the proper
representative of RRCUS or the AKC when appropriate.
6. It is the intent of open registry and exchange of information to encourage breeders to make knowledge breeding
decisions, therefore RRCUS Members shall not use information from open registries and/or full disclosure of health
screen results maliciously or to malign.
Education and communication are the preferred methods of obtaining compliance to this Code of Ethics; however,
flagrant, serious and/or repeated disregard of this code may result in formal charges brought before the RRCUS Board of
Directors by RRCUS members, nonmembers and/or the Ethics Committee. Contract violations as well as slanderous or
libelous allegations between members shall be adjudicated in the courts prior to presentation to the proper
representatives of the RRCUS.