Visiting New Mexico

Transcription

Visiting New Mexico
Introduction
The purpose of this book is to give the reader an idea of the diversity of land features in New
Mexico. It is a place where you can find solitude in its remote wilderness areas, enjoy modern
outdoor recreational facilities, or visit magnificent archeological sites. It is a land of vast
distances that has intriguing place names which represent the Native American, Spanish, and
Anglo cultures associated with different aspects of human activity in the settlements, towns,
and cities of the state, and in the settlements of the tribal lands.
Native Americans, whose ancestors came here more than 10,000 years ago, gave descriptive
names to geographical features before the arrival of people of European descent. For example,
their name of “Big River” and the name given by the Spaniards to the Rio Grande are similar in
meaning. Robert Julyan, author of The Place Names of New Mexico, explains that Native
Americans have a wealth of “other names having ritual or mythological significance.” For
example, the Navajo people use the term “Big, Tall Mountain” in every day conversation when
referring to Mount Taylor which is near Grants. But they also have the sacred name “Turquoise
Mountain” in their religious language for Mount Taylor. Robert Julyan adds that persons of
European descent overlooked the rich vocabulary of Native Americans in giving names (secular
and sacred) to many geographical features within their tribal areas. In more recent times our
society has been more prone culturally in giving commemorative names, such as to the City of
Albuquerque in remembrance of the Duke of Alburquerque in the 18th century and Mount
Taylor in honor of President Taylor of the United States in the 19th century.
This guide describes the physical geography, history, and natural attractions of many places in
New Mexico that range from spectacular wilderness areas with alpine meadows to high desert
locations with fossilized remains of mammoths. For ease of consultation, a chapter is assigned
to each of six geographical regions of the State of New Mexico, namely, the Northwest Region,
the North Central Region, the Northeast Region, the Southwest Region, the South Central
Region, and the Southeast Region. The accompanying list of colorful Native American, Spanish,
and English street names to each chapter attempts to reveal something about the history,
character, and humor of its past and present inhabitants. Access to the U.S. Postal Service’s
master list of more than 67,000 New Mexico streets names made it possible to discover them.
Access to each place is given in italics. For the benefit of foreign visitors the distances involved
are indicated in miles and kilometers (km). The elevations of mountain peaks are listed in feet
(ft) as well as in meters (m). Acre, the unit of square measure, is converted to the metric unit of
square measure, hectare (ha). Likewise, the linear measure, inch, is converted to the metric
linear measure, centimeter (cm). And the liquid measure of capacity, gallon (gal), is converted
to the metric measure of capacity litre (l).
We would be remiss without mentioning safety precautions to exercise when travelling in parts
of New Mexico. Many of the places mentioned in this book are not meant as destinations for
the casual tourist. A GPS is not always helpful in many of these out-of-the-way areas with
unnamed streets. Some are on private land, while others are unremarkable other than for their
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colorful name and located in desolate areas. New Mexico has hundreds of named canyons and
while some may be interesting to visit, most are in locations far off main roads. Even if you are
an experienced hiker, climber, or seasoned traveller, precautions should be taken when visiting
these areas. Below are some suggested arrangements to make before your visit:
1. Do a thorough search ahead of time for the area you want to visit, and obtain
topographical maps if necessary.
2. Leave a copy of your itinerary with a responsible person. Include such details as the
make, year, and license plate of your car, the weather forecast, and when you are
planning to return.
3. Consult with the local ranger station before entering a wilderness area.
4. Always check the weather forecast for the region you are visiting and dress accordingly.
5. Travel in groups when entering a remote area.
6. Bring a customized first aid kit in your outing.
7. Never drink your total supply of water between refills. Treat or filter all backcountry
water supplies.
8. Be prepared for sudden weather changes or delays.
9. Alcohol and cliffs don’t mix!
10. Do not depend on a GPS when travelling on back roads.
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Map of New Mexico
National Atlas of the United States
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The Northwest Region
ACOMA PUEBLO
The oldest occupied settlement in the United States, known in English as Sky City, is built atop a
spectacular 367 foot (112 m) high mesa about 60 miles (97 km) west of Albuquerque. The name
Acoma is from the Keres language and means “People of the White Rock.” The oral traditions of
the Acoma people estimate that they have lived at this site for more than 2,000 years. The fine
Acoma clay coil pots are made entirely by hand. The Acoma Pueblo is designated as a National
Historic Landmark.
Acoma Pueblo or City in the Sky. Courtesy of Frank_am_Main (CC BY-SA 2.0)
Access: From Albuquerque drive west on I-40 and take Exit 102. Follow the signage for
approximately 15 miles (24 km) to Sky City Cultural Center/Haaku Museum (zip code 87034 in
Cibola County). For additional information contact the Visitor Center (505-252-1139 or 800-7470181).
AZTEC RUINS NATIONAL MONUMENT
These are the ruins of a multi-storied pueblo with hundreds of rooms built by the Anasazi
people during the 12th century. English speaking settlers in the 19th century mistakenly assumed
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that these Anasazi ruins had been built by indigenous people related to the Aztec Indians of
Mexico. The ruins consist of a U-shaped complex of 500 rooms with a restored great kiva (a
large room in a Pueblo settlement used for religious and other purposes)..
Aztec Ruins National Monument. Courtesy of National Park Service
Access: On the west side of Animas River near the junction of NM-550 and NM-544. Located
inside of the city limits of Aztec (zip code 87410 in San Juan County). For additional information
contact teh National Park Service (505-334-6174).
BEECHATUDA DRAW
According to the New Mexico Bureau of Geology, it’s a name made up in fun for a land
formation by two geologists (say the words in a rapid fashion). The word “draw” refers to a
gully or ravine in which water flows from time to time.
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Access: 6 miles (9.7 km) north of Waterflow, an unincorporated community west of Fruitland,
and north, across the San Juan River, from the Navajo Reservation (zip code 87416 in San Juan
County).
BISTI/DE-NA-ZIN WILDERNESS
The English translation of the Navajo word Bisti means “a large area of shale hills.” De-Na-Zin
are the Navajo words for “cranes.” Petroglyphs of cranes have been found south of the De-NaZin region. Eye-catching rock formations are spread all over this arid 41,170-acre (16,662 ha)
wilderness area. The eroded hills of gray, red, and purple sands are composed of coal, silt, shale,
and mudstone mixed with hard sandstone. There are sculpted rocky pillars called hoodoos,
formed by erosion, and arches, ridges, and small canyons. Near-complete petrified tree trunks
(some are 100 feet [31 m] in length) and caves are found in this area as well as fossils, including
those of large dinosaur species. These so-called “badlands” hold many Anasazi sites and a
section of the prehistoric Great North Road built to connect Anasazi settlements in the San Juan
Basin to their extensive cultural center at Chaco Canyon. Golden eagles, hawks, and prairie
falcons inhabit this area. Water is nowhere to be found. Check the weather before visiting.
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Rock Formation in Bisti Wilderness. Courtesy of John Fowler
Access: The Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness entrance off NM-371 is accessed by either driving 36
miles (58 km) south of Farmington or by going 46 miles (74 km) north from Crownpoint. Use
County Road 7297 to visit the Bisti. County Road 7510 is driven for 11 miles (17.6 km) east to
visit the De-Na-Zin. For further information contact the Bureau of Land Management Resources
Area Office (505-564-7600 or 800-842-3127) Farmington, 87401 in San Juan County.
CABEZON PEAK
Cabezon means “big head” in Spanish. Native Americans had other names for it before
Spaniards arrived to the Southwest. To the Jemez Pueblo inhabitants it was Wasema’a. To the
Navajos it was Tsenajin or “Black Peak.” The Navajo lore states that it is the head of a giant
killed by gods (The Twin War Gods). His blood spread out to the south and congealed as lava in
the area known as El Malpais. This 7,785-foot (2,373 m) high circular basalt formation rises
nearly 2,000 feet (610 m) above the valley floor and is the most eye-catching of 50 volcanic
necks or plugs in the Rio Puerco Vallley. Two miles south from Cabezon Peak is the ghost town
of Cabezon located in private land.
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Cabezon Peak. Courtesy of Liba Kopeckova
Access: From Albuquerque travel north on I-25 to Bernalillo exit (US 550). Travel northwest on
US-550 for 24 miles (39 km) to San Ysidro (in Sandoval County). Turn left to County Road 39.
After 8.7 miles (14 km) take left fork and follow for 3 miles (4.8 km) to trail. For further
information contact the Rio Puerco Field Office, Bureau of Land Management (505-761-8700) in
Albuquerque (zip code 87107 in Bernalillo County).
CEBOLLA WILDERNESS
The 61,600-acre (24,930 ha) Cebolla Wilderness, on the east side of the extensive lava fields
known as El Malpais, has cliffs, mesas, and canyons connected by meadows and spread-out
forests of juniper, piñon, and ponderosas. It holds a significant number of Anasazi sites and La
Ventana (Spanish word for “the window”), one of the biggest sandstone arches in New Mexico
with an opening 125 feet (38 m) high and 165 feet (50 m) long. South of La Ventana are a series
of cliffs as high as 500 feet (152 m).
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La Ventana Arch. Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: Located on NM-117 about 18 miles (29 km) south of its junction with I-40. Information
available at the El Malpais Visitor Center in Grants (zip code 87020 in Cibola County).
CHACO CULTURE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK
This national historical park preserves the greatest concentration of prehistoric ruins in the
United States that remained the largest buildings in North America until early in the 19th
century. A number of the 15 major structures that reached four stories in height and enclosed
up to 700 rooms were aligned in consonance with the solar and lunar cycles. Over the centuries
the Anasazi created a major center that, according to the experts, started to be affected by
climate change in 1130 AD. The Hopi and Pueblo people, as the direct descendants of the
Anasazi, kept oral accounts of the migration from Chaco. In order to hike in the Chaco
backcountry you must first obtain a backcountry hiking permit at the Visitor Center. No
overnight backpacking is allowed inside the park boundaries. Each of the designated trails leads
to a major ruin. The Pueblo Alto Trail takes the hiker to the top of the mesa north of Chaco
Canyon. According to Mike Hill, author of Guide to the Hiking Areas of New Mexico, this location
“was the starting point for most of the ancient roads that radiated out from the north side of
Chaco Canyon and connected outlying pueblos.” The Peñasco Blanco Trail goes to a pueblo ruin
that had buildings four stories high. This trail offers the visitor many examples of prehistoric art.
It also leads to the Supernova Pictograph, a well known example of Anasazi rock art. The Tsin
Kletzin Trail goes to the top of the mesa south of Chaco Canyon. It is proposed by archeologists
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that the high location of this pueblo built with two tower kivas allowed its inhabitants to be in
visual contact with distant sites. The Wijiji Trail leads up to a canyon on the east end of the park
to a pueblo ruin that had about 100 rooms. The rock art on these eastern cliffs includes the
only painted handprints found at the Chaco Canyon National Historical Monument, although
they are common in other parts of the Anasazi Territory.
Chaco Canyon Ruins. Courtesy of Liba Kopeckova
Access: The National Park Service recommends entering from the north. Take US-550
three miles (4.8 km) south of Nageezi, NM, or 50 miles (80 km) from Cuba, NM. At the sign for
mile # 112.5, turn onto County Road 7900. Follow the signs to Chaco entrance, 21 miles
(34 km) away. This route includes 16 miles of rough, dirt road. From the south, two routes
access Chaco Culture National Historical Park from local road # 9, which runs between
Crownpoint, Pueblo Pintado, and Cuba. Road conditions vary. Not recommended for RVs.
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Contact the Chaco Culture National Historical Park at Bloomfield (505) 786-7014 for current
road conditions (zip code 87413 in San Juan County).
DOWA YALANNE
Dowa Yalanne or Corn Mesa is an impressive multicolored mesa with a spring at each end. Corn
Mesa has always served as a place of refuge and defense to the Zuni people. Dowa Yalanne
holds a very important place in the religious and cultural life of the Zuni people whose land is
about the size of Rhode Island.
Access: Dowa Yalanne is located 2.8 miles (4.5 km) east-southeast of Zuni Pueblo. It is a drive of
38 miles (61 km) south on NM-602 and NM-53 from Gallup to the Zuni Pueblo. All visitors should
contact the Visitor Center near the center of the Pueblo to get current information regarding
religious and cultural activities (zip code 87237 in McKinley County ).
EL MALPAIS NATIONAL MONUMENT
El Malpais in Spanish means “the badlands.” It is an extremely barren area with extinct volcanic
fields consisting of lava flow, cinder cones, trenches, and lava tube caves (caves permits are
required to visit caves). As a visitor you can choose scenic overlooks, take short walks or
difficult trails. Because of the rough terrain the trail routes are marked with a series of rock
piles called cairns. Note of warning: as you travel on the cairned trails make sure you see the
next cairn before leaving the one you are at.
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El Malpais National Monument
Hot, fluid lava is responsible for this formation
Courtesy of United States Geological Survey
Access: You can get information about this national monument by going either to El Malpais
Information Center which is located 25 miles (40 km) on NM-53 south of I-40/Exit 81 (west of
Grants), or at the Northwest New Mexico Center located at I-40/Exit 85 in Grants (zip code
87020 in Cibola County).
EL MORRO NATIONAL MONUMENT
It is of interest to note that a section of NM-53 follows the approximate prehistoric trade route
between the Zuni and the Acoma Pueblos. Going back to ancient times, the highly visible
sandstone promontory El Morro has served as a shelter with a water catchment basin for
travelers and explorers. Today you can see the petroglyphs left by the Anasazi people next to
more modern inscribed names and messages. The Atsinna Ruins atop the 200 foot (61 m) high
El Morro National Monument and nearby sites continue to be sacred places for the Zuni Pueblo.
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El Morro National Monument. Courtesy of Joel Mills (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Access: Go on I-40 to the exit for NM-53, just west of Grants. Continue on NM-53 south and
west for 43 miles (69 km) (zip code 87020 in Cibola County).
FOUR C ORNERS MONUMENT
The Four Corners Monument was erected to point to the place in the southwestern United
States where the states of Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico, and Utah meet. The Navajo Nation
maintains the monument as a tourist attraction.
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Four Corners Monument. Courtesy of Jan Kronsell(CC0)
Access: On NM-160 approximately 40 miles (64 km) southwest of Cortez, Colorado (zip code
87420 in San Juan County).
HOLE-IN-THE-WALL
The West Malpais Wilderness has a 6,700-acre (2,714 ha) kipuka called Hole-In-The-Wall.
Kipuka is an Hawaiian term that describes a tract of land ranging from several square feet to
several square miles where existing native forests and plants are encircled, but not covered, by
lava flows. Many species have adapted to this island in the midst of the lava fields such as
ponderosa trees and grassland. You must carry all the water you need and have a backcountry
permit from either the BLM El Malpais Ranger Station on NM-117 or El Malpais Information
Center in Grants.
Access: Drive 22 miles (35 km) on NM-117 south of Grants to the West Wilderness Area of the El
Malpais National Monument (zip code 87020 in Cibola County).
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ICE CAVES AND BANDERA VOLCANO
This site is situated on the Continental Divide at an elevation of 8,000 feet (2,438 m). For a fee
you can hike up on well-maintained trails to the extinct Bandera Volcano (150 feet [46 m]
vertical climb) and visit the Ice Cave, a collapsed lava tube where the temperature never gets
above 31 F (0.6 C). The ice on the walls and the floor has a green color caused by arctic algae.
Bring a jacket when you go down the 60 or so steps into the large chamber.
Access: Located on private land these two volcanic landforms are located about 50 miles (81 km)
souhwest on NM-53 front Grants (zip code 87020 in Cibola County).
MOUNT TAYLOR
Located in the southwestern corner of the San Mateo Montains, Mount Taylor is held sacred by
the Acoma, Laguna, Zuni, Hopi, and Navajo peoples. Uranium mine developers continue to be
interested in obtaining uranium ore from Mount Taylor. However, Native Americans oppose
such plans because Mount Taylor is sacred to them. At 11,301 feet (3,445 m) it can be seen
from up to 100 miles (161 km) away.
According to author Robert Julyan, Navajos call Mount Taylor by its common name, “Big Tall
Mountain”, and also on religious ocassions by its sacred name, “Turquoise Mountain.”
Below its summit there are extensive grassy slopes with rock outcrops and groves of aspen and
Douglas fir. Farther down the mountain you’ll find meadows and open ponderosa forests.
Access: From Albuquerque travel west about 72 miles (116 km) on I-40 to Grants. Take NM-547
or Lobo Canyon Road northeast from Grants for about 14 miles (23 km). Check with the Cibola
National Forest Mount Taylor District at Grants (zip code 87020 in Cibola County) for further
instructions on how to reach the slopes of Mount Taylor.
SHIPROCK
This sacred peak of the Navajo Nation rises nearly 1,583 feet (483 m) above the Colorado
Plateau. In English its Navajo name means “Rock with Wings.” Shiprock is off limits to rock
climbers since 1970. Nowadays Its spectacular vertical prominence (volcano neck or plug)
attracts many artists and tourists in greater numbers.
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Shiprock. Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: Located about 42 miles (68 km) west of Farmington and 10.75 miles (17.30 km)
southwest of the town of Shiprock, this impressive landmark can be seen 7 miles (11 km) south
on US-491 then 6 miles (9.6 km) west along BIA-13, the Red Rock Highway (zip code 87420 in
San Juan County). For more information contact the Navajo Nation's Tourism Dept. (Visitor
Services) at 928- 871-6647.
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The North Central Region
ABIQUIU
This Spanish American settlement was built in 1747 on the ruins of a Tewa Indian Pueblo next
to the Chama River. It served as a supply center for the old Spanish Trail that led to California
and later as the frontier gate to licensed trappers of beavers. In more recent times it became
the home of the famous artist Georgia O’Keeffe who was inspired by the multicolored
landforms of the area.
Landscape near Abiquiu which inspired Georgia O’Keeffe. Photo Courtesy of Liba Kopeckova
Access: Drive 25 miles (40 km) north on U.S-84/285 from Española (zip code 87510 in Rio Arriba
County).
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ANGEL FIRE MOUNTAIN
The poetic name of this mountain, 11,060 ft. (3,255m) in height, is derived from an old legend
of the Moache Ute Indians who called the peak “Breath of Spirits.” When lightining started a
forest fire near their camping grounds, immediately afterwards a rainstorm put out the
advancing flames. Later on the Spanish priests changed the name first to “Breath of Angels” and
then to “Angel Fire.”
Access: Drive 24 miles (39 km) on US-64 from Taos to Angel Fire. Turn right at intersection with
NM-434. Drive about 6 miles (10 km) on NM-434 to view Angel Fire Mountain on your left (zip
code 87710 in Colfax County).
BANDELIER NATIONAL MONUMENT
The spectacular Bandelier National Monument, located on the 7,300-foot (2,225 m) high
Pajarito Plateau of the Jemez Mountain, offers the visitor an enormous variety of archeological
sites such the circular ruins of multi-storied structures, hunting shrines, and kivas. On the valley
floor of Frijoles Canyon one of the ruins is that of a three-storied communal house with about
400 rooms called Tyuonyi and about two miles (3.2 km) of ruins of cliff houses and caves that
run along the base of the northern nearly-vertical wall of the canyon. Hikers can choose from a
number of trails that radiate from the valley floor of Frijoles Canyon.
Kiva (Puebloan Religious Room) at Bandelier National Monument (“Brian0919”. CC0)
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Access: Entrance at Exit 517 of NM-4, about 15 miles (24 km) south of Los Alamos (zip code
87544 in Los Alamos County).
BATTLESHIP ROCK
This rock cliff looks like the prow of a ship and is made of welded volcanic ash (pyroclastic
deposit). It is nearly 200 feet (61 m) above the line of trees and can be seen from the highway.
For safey reasons no hiking is allowed to the top of the cliff. There are restrooms and picnic
tables near the base of the cliff. No overnight camping allowed.
Battleship Rock. Courtesy of Liba Kipeckova
Access: Drive northeast on NM-4 from Jemez Springs for about 5 miles (8 km). Free parking
available at hiking parking lot by highway. For further information contact Jemez Spring District,
Santa Fe National Forest at 575-829-3535 (zip code 87025 in Sandoval County).
BLACK MESA
This huge black-basalt mesa is a religious place for the Pueblo people. The Tewa meaning in
every-day type of conversation is “Very Spotted Mountain.” However, its revered name is
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“Sacred Fire Mountain.” The San Ildefonso Pueblo inhabitants were able to defend themselves
on the mesa from three assaults made by the Spanish leader Diego de Vargas in his reconquest
of 1692.
Access: Just north of San Ildefonso Pueblo and east of NM-30 (zip code 87506 in Santa Fe
County ).
BRAZOS CLIFFS
In the 1950s and extending into the 1970s, experienced rock climbers established about 50
routes reaching an average height of 2,000 ft (610 m). However, these spectacular cliffs are off
limits to rock climbers today because of the liability issues facing the private owners of the land.
Nowadays the only option for sightseers to view these formidable escarpments, with 3,000 ft
(914 m) of vertical face, is from US-64 and nearby county roads. There is no public parking
available.
Access: The Brazos Cliffs are on private land in the Tusas Mountains. They can be seen to the
east from US-64 between the settlement of Tierra Amarilla and the town of Chama. The drive
from Taos on US-64 takes over one hour (zip code 87520 in Rio Arriba County).
BULL-OF-THE-WOODS MOUNTAIN
This intriguing name relates to the bulls of the elk herds that are seen to this day in this area.
Access: Drive from Taos 4 miles (6.4 km) on NM-152. Turn right on NM-150 and continue for 15
miles (24 km) to the Taos Ski Valley. The trailhead of Trail #90 to Wheeler Peak Trail is located in
the upper parking area of the Taos Ski Valley. Continue on foot on this trail for 2 miles (3 km) to
the Bull-of-the- Woods Mountain. For further information contact the Carson National Forest
Office at 575-758-6200 (zip code 87525 in Taos County).
CAMEL ROCK
A large rock formation with the shape of a camel.
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Camel Rock. Courtesy of Liba Kopeckova
Access: Located on the west side of US 84/285 across from the Camel Rock Casino, Tesuque
Pueblo (zip code 87506 in Santa Fe County).
CERRILLOS HILLS STATE PARK
The entrance to Cerrillos Hills State Park is only a half mile (0.8 km) from the tree-lined village
of Cerrillos (in Spanish, “small hills). This historic park is an important unit of the Turquoise Trail
National Scenic Byway between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Its 1,116 acres (451 ha) guard one
of the oldest mining areas of North America dating back to 900 AD. Archeologists discovered
turquoise gems quarried from these hills among the extensive ruins of the Anasazi civilization at
the distant Chaco Canyon. In addition to turquoise ancient Native Americans mined lead in the
nearby Ortiz Mountains to make glazed pottery. Today the prehistoric open pits, and the mine
shafts dug later by Spanish and Anglo American people looking for silver and gold, are
safeguarded to prevent accidents. Interpretive information is posted along 5 miles (8 km) of
well-maintained trails. Visitors can enjoy hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and
picnicking . Schedules of events at the park include evenings when sightseers gaze through
telescopes at the night skies. Active turquoise mining is carried out nowadays in the adjacent
private lands.
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Four miles (6.4 km) south of Cerrillos is Madrid. Once a thriving mining town with access to rich
veins of soft lignite and hard anthracite coal, it transformed itself in the 1970s into a very
popular spot along the Turquoise Trail where the movie Wild Hogs was filmed in 2006.
Access: From downtown Albuquerque drive about 13 miles (21 km) east on I-40 to Exit 175 (NM14/Cedar Crest). Continue north on NM-14 (Turquoise Trail) for about 32 miles (51 km) toward
Cerrillos. Make a left turn at Main St., Cerrillos.
From downtown Santa Fe drive 3 miles (4.8 km) east on Old Pecos Trail to I-25 ramp to
Albuquerque. Merge onto I-25 south and continue for about 6 miles (10 km) to Exit 278 A to
merge onto NM-14 south. Continue for about 15 miles (24 km) on NM-14 toward Cerrillos. Turn
right on Main St. Alternate route from downtown Santa Fe: Turn right on St. Francis Drive north.
Continue for 1.5 miles (2.4 km) to merge onto NM-599 south/Veterans Memorial Hwy toward
Santa Fe/Relief Route. Continue for about 14 miles (23 km) and turn right onto NM-14 south.
Continue driving for about 13 miles (21 km) and turn right on Main St., Cerrillos (zip code 87010
in Santa Fe County. For further information contact the Visitor Center at (505) 474-0196. Call or
visit the following websites for a schedule of coming events: www.nmparks.com or
www.cerrilloshills.org
CERRO PEDERNAL
Known in English as Pedernal Peak, access to the top of this narrow mesa at 9,862 feet (3,006 m)
of elevation is restricted to properly trained and equipped rock climbers. Once on top of the
mesa, one is able to see the whole southern Sangre de Cristo Range from Colorado to the
mountain peaks above Santa Fe. To the west, the San Juan Mountains of the Navajo Nation and
the La Plata Mountains above Durango, Colorado are part of the unique panoramic vista from
Cerro Pedernal. Pedernal means flint in Spanish. At the base of this flat-topped landmark
prehistoric Native American people quarried the flint outcrop to make arrowheads, scrapers,
knives, and spearpoints. The famous artist Georgia O’Keeffe referred to this striking landmark
of the northern Jemez Mountains as her “favorite mountain” and painted Cerro Pedernal a
number of times.
Access: Drive 27 miles (43 km) northwest from Española (zip code 87510 in Rio Arriba County)
on US-84. Turn west in NM-96. Then, travel 11.5 miles (18.5 km) on NM-96. For further
instructions on the conditions of forest and jeep roads and degree of difficulty to climb the steep
terrain contact the U.S. Forest Service, Santa Fe National Forest, Jemez Ranger District (zip code
87125 in Bernalillo County).
CRUCES BASIN WILDERNESS
The western section of the 18,902 acre (7,655 ha) Cruces Basin Wilderness goes up to an
elevation of 10,600 feet (3,231 m) with scattered stands of aspen, spruce, and fir. The eastern
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and southern sides of the wilderness area come down to open meadows at about 8,600 feet
(2,621 m). The route of the historical Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad goes by the northern
boundary of the Cruces Basin Wilderness. You are bound to see wild life, such as herds of elk
and mule deer in these open grasslands. The streams of these meadows are well-stocked with
small-size trout. This out-of-the-way portion of the Carson National Forest is visited mostly by
hunters and fishermen.
Access: The main way of entering this remote wilderness area is out of Tres Piedras , which is
located about 33 miles (53 km) west of Taos and 55 miles (89 km) north of Española. From Tres
Piedras continue north on US-285 for about 11 miles (18 km) to Forest Road 87 and turn left .
FR-87 is a long gravel and dirt road. Sections of the road become impassable after heavy rains.
Follow FR-87 through several junctions passing FR-87A in 21 miles (34 km). A mile(0.6 km)
beyond FR-87A, turn right onto FR-572 (rough road). Continue on FR-572 for 2 miles (3.2 km) to
the trailhead. From Antonito, Colorado take Forest Roads 5 and 103 to reach the north
trailhead on Toltec Mesa. This four-wheeled drive road continues across the Rio de los Pinos and
in about 8 miles (13 km) leads to Toltec Mesa. The nearest facilities are at least 30 miles (48 km)
away in Tres Piedras and in Antonito, Colorado. It is strongly recommended to use high
clearance 4 WD vehicles. More detailed information is available from the Carson National Forest
Tres Piedras Ranger District (zip code 87577 in Taos County).
ECHO AMPHITHEATER
Echo Amphitheater is a 200-foot (61 m) high multicolored concave sandstone depression on the
side of a cliff of the Carson National Forest. Its echo quality is well known to humans and
animals alike. Migratory swallows nest on its high walls.
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Echo Amphitheater Courtesy of Andy Eick (CC BY 2.0)
Access: Located off US-84, about 17 miles (27 km) north of Abiquiu and just past 4 miles (6.4 km)
from Ghost Ranch (zip code 87510 in Rio Arriba County).
GHOST RANCH
The 21,000-acre (8,505 ha) Ghost Ranch is an Education and Retreat Center of the Prebysterian
Church. Their facilities are open to all. Over 200 classes, spiritual retreats, and outdoor activities
such as camping and hiking are offered to individuals, families, and groups. The multicolored
landscape at the Ghost Ranch has been the subject of many painters including the famous
American painter Georgia O’Keeffe. Many fossil beds have been found and identified on the
premises. A significant number of films have been made at Ghost Ranch such as Indiana Jones
and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull in 2008 and more recently Cowboys and Aliens in 2011.
Access: Drive north of Abiquiu 14 miles (23 km) on NM-84 to the Ghost Ranch (zip code 87510 in
Rio Arriba County).
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GRAN QUIVIRA
These extensive ruins are located on top of the Chupadero Mesa. Together with two other
wrecked settlements, namely Abo and Quarai, it makes up the Salinas Pueblo Missions National
Monument. According to archeologists these pueblos were built either by the Anasazi from the
north or the Mogollon people from the south. The three ruined pueblos have large apartment
block structures, many interconnected rooms, and the sizable ruins of mission churches built by
the Spanish.
Gran Quivira. Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: Take I-40 east to NM-337. Drive south 50 miles (81 km) to the Mountainair Information
Center, National Park Service. The Gran Quivira Ruins are 26 miles (42 km) south of Mountainair
on NM-55. (zip code 87036 in Torrance County).
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JEMEZ MOUNTAINS
Most of the aproximately 2,500 square miles (6,475 km2) of the Jemez Mountains are contained
within the Santa Fe National Forest. The gigantic geologic events that created this region
include a monstrous volcano that erupted, blew up, collapsed, and left a caldera 13.7 miles (22
km) across. Today Valles Caldera National Preserve is one of the largest calderas in the world
covered with thick alpine grasslands. Erosion over millenia created deep canyons and valleys
that drain rain water and snow from the forested mountains, one of which has a summit
11,561-foot (3,524 m) high. The Jemez Mountains have many peaks and sites sacred to Native
American peoples. A trip on the paved NM-4 road gives you an idea of the natural attractions of
the Jemez Mountains as it climbs through the lower volcanic tuff slopes and up through
ponderosa forests. There are forest campgrounds along the route. The spectacular Bandelier
National Monument is located on the 7,300-foot (2,225 m) high Pajarito Plateau of the Jemez
Mountains. Obtain weather information before taking the trip and be aware that the fire
season requires closure of access roads on short notice.
Access: Located in north central New Mexico, its center is about 60 miles (97 km) northwest of
Santa Fe (zip code 87025 in Sandoval County).
KASHA KATUWE TENT ROCKS NATIONAL MONUMENT
This 4,645-acre (1,881 ha) national monument is located on the eastern border of the Jemez
Mountains. The conical-shaped pillars are the result of consolidated volcanic eruptions of
pumice, rocks, and ash. The rock formed by consolidated volcanic ash (known as tuff) created
deposits more than 1,000 feet (305 m) thick. Over the ages erosion by water and wind made
the cone-shaped tent rock formations and the narrow canyons and dry bed arroyos. Some of
these tent rocks are only a few feet in height while others are as high as 90 feet (27 m). This
unique landscape near the Rio Grande has attracted visitors since time immemorial. It served as
the backdrop for some scenes of The Lone Ranger movie (released in 2013). Today the Cochiti
Pueblo occupies the surrounding area. Kasha Katuwe means “White Cliffs” in the Keres
language. Well-maintained trails take the hiker to several sites. The Canyon Trail is the most
scenic one. It winds at first through a narrow canyon where natural sculpture by wind and
water is the rule rather than the exception. The trail continues up a steep climb to the mesa
where the hiker is rewarded with views of the Sangre de Cristo, Jemez, Sandia mountains and
the Rio Grande Valley. The Veterans Memorial Trails is a 1-mile (1.6 km) loop trail accessible to
wheelchair-bound visitors The monument is closed to dogs. However, assistance dogs are
exempt. Take plenty of water.
26
Kasha Katuwe Tent Rocks. Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: To reach this national monument (zip code 87072 in Sandoval County) drive 55 miles (89
km) on I-25 from Albuquerque or 40 miles (64 km) from Santa Fe to the Cochiti Pueblo exit (Exit
264) and travel west for 7.9 miles (13 km) on NM-16 to the junction with NM-22. Turn north on
NM-22, passing below Cochiti Dam. Follow signs to the Cochiti Pueblo and the national
monument. For further information contact the Bureau of Land Management in Albuquerque
(zip code 87107 in Bernalillo County).
LAS TUSAS MOUNTAINS
The elevation of these mountains in the Carson National Forest ranges 7,500 to 11,043 feet
(2,286 to 3,366 m). US-64 from Tres Piedras to Tierra Amarilla provides views of the spectacular
Brazos Cliffs. Other major attractions include the 20,000 acre (8,100 ha) Edward Sargeant Fish
and Wildlife Area and the historical Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. The region is very
popular in the winter for country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobile rides.
Access: Located from the Colorado state line to the Rio Chama Valley. Carson National Forest,
Tres Piedras (zip code 87575 in Taos County).
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LATIR PEAK WILDERNESS
This remote 20,506-acre (8,305 ha) wilderness area is in the Carson National Forest which has
well-watered forests of ponderosa, fir, and aspen up to 10,000 feet (3,048 m) of elevation.
Above that altitude you come across alpine tundra and alpine lakes on Latir Mesa. This
wilderness has some of the highest peaks in the state at over 12,500 feet (3,658 m) of elevation.
Wildlife includes mule deer, black bear, badger, beaver, bobcat, coyote, mountain lion, ferret,
boreal owl, marmot, marten, pika, ptarmigan, and muskrat. Native cutthroat trout is abundant
in the streams. According to Mike Hill, author of Guide to the Hiking Areas of New Mexico, it has
“hiking and horsepacking pressure that is low to moderate.” Hiking can be strenous above the
timberline. The best time to hike is from June through the first part of October.
Also located in the Latir Peak Wilderness is Questa Dome, an imposing 600 ft (183 m) southfacing rounded summit which is a favorite of rock climbers because of the hardness of its
quartzite granite. Access: Drive north 6 miles (9.7 km) on NM-522 past the village of Questa.
Take a right at sign to El Rito. Continue for about 2 miles (3.2 km). A high clearance 4 WD
vehicle is recommended to reach the trailhead. Proceed on foot up a steep trail in the forest to
reach the base of the dome (about 45 minutes).
Access: From the town of Questa go east on NM-38. Make a left turn about 0.7 miles (1.1 km)
onto Kiowa Rd. (there is a sign for Cabresto Lake at this intersection). Continue north on Kiowa
Rd for about 2.2 miles (3.5 km) where it ends at a T intersection. Turn right. From here drive
about 3.4 miles (5.5 km) where the road continues as Forest Road 134. You will see a sign
pointing left and indicating Cabresto Lake is 2 miles (3.2 km) up the rough, narrow, and winding
Forest Road 134A. There are campsites and trailheads by the 15-acre (6 ha) lake. At 9,500 ft
(2,896 m) Cabresto Lake is surrounded by high peaks. For further information regarding road
conditions contact the Questa Ranger District Office of the Carson National Forest at 575-5860520. (zip code 87556 in Taos County).
MANZANO MOUNTAINS
The Manzano Mountains has the largest stand of Bigtooth Maple trees in New Mexico. Their
bright orange and red leaves become a major attraction for visitors each fall. At the southern
end of the 40 mile (63 km) long mountain range there are very old apple trees (manzano in
Spanish). It’s an ideal birdwatching area. Thousands of migrating raptor birds go over these
mountains in their flights between Canada and Mexico. The 64 miles (101 km) of welldeveloped trails include the trail that runs along the crest for 22 miles (36 km) to Manzano Peak
(10,098 feet [3,078 m] in height). The eastern foothills hold the Quarai Ruins of the Salinas
Pueblo National Monument, located 8 miles (13 km) north of US-60 on NM-55. The stone walls
of the massive church were 60 feet (18 m) high and 5 to 6 feet (1.5 m to 1.8 m) thick. Today the
walls have crumbled to 20 feet (6 m) in height. This was a Tiwa Pueblo that was a busy center of
trade at one time. It was abandoned in the 1670s.
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Access: From Albuquerque drive south on I-25 to Belen. From Belen drive southeast on NM-47
and then US-60 for a total of 32 miles (52 km) to reach Mountainair. For further information
contact U.S. Forest Service Mountainair Ranger District (zip code 87036 in Torrance County).
MIDNIGHT
A short-lived (1895-1898) gold mining camp and, according to Robert Julyan in his book The
Place Names of New Mexico, known for its reputation as a boisterous settlement. It was named
after the nearby Midnight Mine. Mining equipment in short supply and land ownership
problems led to its demise.
Access: From Santa Fe take US-285 through Española to Taos. Once you get through Taos, drive
north on NM-552 to Questa, then make a right at NM-38 and drive 12 miles (19 km) toward Red
River. Midnight was located about 4 miles (6 km) northeast of the village of Red River at the
head of the Middle Fork of the Red River (zip code 87558 in Taos County).
NO AGUA PEAKS
At an elevation of about 8,000 feet (2,438 m), the No Agua Peaks (in Spanish, “no water”) holds
one of the world’s largest deposits of the mineral perlite. Because of its unique combination of
physical and chemical properties such as heat resistance and chemical inertness this glassy
volcanic mineral with a pearly luster is in great demand commercially as an aggregate in
insulation boards, plaster, and portland cement concrete. It is used also as a filter, abrasive, and
foundry castable and bonding agent.
Access: Seven miles (11 km) north of Tres Piedras US-285 passes close to the western slopes of
No Agua Peaks (zip code 87577 in Taos County).
PECOS WILDERNESS
The Pecos Wilderness, at 223,667 acres or 90,585 hectares (350 square miles or 907 km2) is
second in size to the Gila Wilderness. It has high elevation rocky peaks, canyons, large mesa
tops, dense forest slopes and alpine meadows. According to Peter Greene’s observations in his
book Mike Butterfield’s Guide to the Mountains of New Mexico, “there are more than fifteen
lakes and eight major streams.” Greene added that the word pecos comes from the Keres
language and means “Place Where There Is Water.“ Most of these mountains have been held
sacred by Native American people who settled nearby. Four of the highest peaks at the
southern end (New Mexico) of the Rocky Mountains are in the Pecos Wilderness. Each year
over 35 inches (89 cm) of precipitation fall on this area. The forests are made up of diverse
trees such as piñon, juniper, spruce, ponderosa pine, limber pine, fir, and aspen. The extensive
stands of aspens turn to a spectacular yellow in the fall. The Pecos Wilderness provides shelter
and forage to a variety of wildlife such as elk, deer, black bear, wild turkey, mountain lion,
marmot, ptarmigan, and one of the biggest herds of Rocky Mountain Bighorn sheep. Over 400
miles (644 km) of trails makes it possible for hikers to use loop routes. The rough topography of
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the wilderness can be a tough challenge to hikers. The shortest and easiest approaches to some
of the 12,000-plus-foot (3,658 m) mountain peaks are from the Santa Fe Ski Area (located in the
Aspen Basin). The 17 mile (27 km) road leading to the Ski Area from downtown Santa Fe is
plowed through winter. One of the trails out of the Aspen Basin is the Winsor Trail (#254). It is a
moderate to strenous route to Skyline Trail (#251) which is a well-defined 50 mile (80 km) route
that leads the hiker to mountain summits such as the 13,103 foot (3,994 m) high South Truchas
Peak from where you can see the distant mountains of Colorado. Rain protection and warm
clothing are necessary at these elevations. Camping and fishing are allowed with proper permit.
And when traveling alone, make sure someone who knows you knows you’re out there!
Access: There are a number of entry points leading to trailheads into the Pecos Wilderness.
When entering from the north one option is to drive on NM-518 to the settlement of Angostura
and then continue southeast to Forest Road 161. If you are coming from the east take NM-65
out of Las Vegas to reach the Hermit Peak (in Spanish, El Cerro del Tecolote Grande) area. The
southern entry is NM-63 between the town of Pecos and the settlement of Cowles. For further
information contact the Santa Fe Forest Ranger Districts at Española, Pecos, Las Vegas, or Santa
Fe (zip code 87504 in Santa Fe County ).
PETROGLYPHS NATIONAL MONUMENT
This is one of the largest petroglyph sites in North America (7,236 acres [2,931 ha]). It has
approximately 24,000 carvings cut into the dark volcanic rock by the Ancestral Pueblo people
(Anasazi) and early Spanish settlers. Most of the carvings date from the 1300s to the 1600s. The
images include those of animals, hunting scenes, figures of men, masks, geometric, and
abstract shapes. On many of the boulders there are dense bunches of images. Be careful of
rattlesnakes. The main part of the monument is next to the suburbs of Albuquerque. The
National Park Service and the City of Albuquerque jointly manage the Petroglyphs National
Monument.
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Petroglyph National Monument. Courtesy of ZhuPix (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Access: From Albuquerque take I-40 west to Exit 154 (Unser Blvd.). Continue on Unser Blvd. for 3
miles (4.8 km). Make a left turn on Western Trail and continue to the Visitor Center (zip code
87101 in Bernalillo County).
PUYE CLIFF DWELLINGS
The Puye Cliff Dwelling, a designated National Historic Landmark, were occupied, according to
the experts, by as many as 1,500 Anasazi people (ancestors of the present-day Santa Clara
Pueblo people) from the 900s to 1580 A.D. The well-preserved ruins consist of two levels. One
level of cliff dwellings is over 1 mile (1.6 km) long, which is the length of the mesa. It has 740
rooms. On top of the mesa is the second level. At this location there are cave dwellings and the
ruins of multi-storied buildings similar to those of modern-day Taos Pueblo. In the late 1500s
drought forced the Pueblo people to move closer to the Rio Grande Valley. Today the
descendants of the Puye live about 10 miles (16 km) to the east. The Tewa word “puye” means
“pueblo ruin where rabbits meet.” The guided tours are highly educational and ably conducted
by members of the Santa Clara Pueblo. The museum on the site provides additional information
about the rich Pueblo culture and history. And the visitor will not forget the spectacular view of
the Sangre de Cristo Mountains from these historical ruins.
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Puye Cliff Dwellings. Courtesy of Einar Kvaran (CC BY-SA 3.0)
Access: From Santa Fe drive north about 18 miles (29 km) on US-285/84. Take the NM-502 west
(Los Alamos exit). Continue on NM-582. Make right turn on NM-30 exit. Drive north on NM-30
to the intersection with Santa Clara Canyon Road where the Puye Cliffs Welcome Center is
located. Call the Welcome Center beforehand for reservations to one of several guided tours
given by members of the Santa Clara Pueblo at 1-888-320-5008 (zip code 87532 in Rio Arriba
County).
RIO GRANDE DEL NORTE NATIONAL MONUMENT
On March 25, 2013 President Obama designated the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.
It consists of about 242,000 acres (998,018 ha) of extensive grass and sagebrush mesas,
protected Native American archeological sites, forested lands, basalt-blackened volcanic peaks
as high as 10,000 feet (3,048 m), and canyons such as the spectacular Rio Grande Gorge. The
monument takes in an important stretch of the Rio Grande River from the Colorado border to
Pilar, New Mexico. Recreational opportunities include whitewater rafting, fishing, and wildlife
watching. According to Ron Gardner, Forest Ranger and field biologist, it is “the most diverse
ecosystem in the West.” The river is part of the Central Migratory Flyway and about 6,000 elk
graze on the native grasses of the mesa lands. The gorge is about 96 miles (154 km) long with
vertical walls 800 feet (244 m) in height that provide an ideal habitat for raptor birds such as
owls, hawks, falcons, and eagles.
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Rio Grande Gorge. Courtesy of Liba Kopeckova
Access: On April 15, 2013 the non-profit Trust for Public Land made it possible to provide 78
acres (32 ha) of land at the end of Taos County Road 110 for new routes into the southern end
of this national monument, For additional information contact the Bureau of Land Management
(BLM) at Taos (zip code 87571 in Taos County).
SANDIA MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS
The well-kept 117 miles (188 km) of trails of the Sandia Mountain Wilderness offer tourists and
residents of Albuquerque a respite from urban life by providing ready access to 37,877 acres
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(15,340 ha) of forested areas and scenic promontories. One of them is the Crest Trail that runs
along the ridge of the mountain for 28.2 miles (42.6 km) at an average elevation of 10,000 feet
(3,048 m.). Other trails connect with the Crest Trail. One of them, La Luz (Spanish, The Light )
Trail (# 137), is a strenous one because it has a grade of 12% and rises 3,775 ft (1,151 m.) from
its trailhead at the foot of the steep western slope to the crest of the Sandia Mountain. This
wilderness area serves as a temporary home to migrating raptor birds in the spring and fall.
Mule deer, black bears, coyotes, roadrunners, ravens, canyon wrens, Stellar Jays, bobcats,
raccoons, and squirrels are representative of the permanent wildlife at the Sandia Mountain
Wilderness. Plant life is diverse due to the rough topography. It includes firs, spruces,
ponderosas, and conifers.
Eastern Access: From the center of Albuquerque drive east on I-40 to Exit 167 (Tijeras). Turn
north on NM-14. Follow NM-14 north for approximately 6 miles (9.7 km) and turn left (west)
onto Route 536.
Western Access: From the center of Albuquerque drive north on I-25 to Exit 234 (Tramway
Road.). Follow Tramway Road to the Sandia Peak Tramway. Ride the Tramway to the Sandia
Crest facilities. For more information contact the Sandia Ranger District in Tijeras (zip code
87059 in Bernalillo County).
SANTUARIO DE CHIMAYÓ
El Santuario (santuario is Spanish for “sanctuary”) de Chimayó, a designated National Historic
Landmark, has been referred to as the most important Catholic pilgrimage center in the United
States. Built of adobe with a bell tower on each side and walls more than 3 feet (about 1 m)
thick, the shrine receives some 30,000 pilgrims each year during Holy Week.
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Bell towers at the Santuario de Chimayó in New Mexico. Courtesy of karol m (CC BY 2.0)
Access: From Santa Fe follow US-285 north for approximately 20 miles (32 km). Turn right on
County Road 88 (La Puebla Road). Continue for 2.8 miles (4.5 km) to NM-76 (Santa Cruz Road).
Continue to follow NM-76 east for about 5 miles (8 km) to CR-1444 to reach Chimayo (zip code
87522 in Rio Arriba County).
TRES PIEDRAS CRAGS
Although the Tres Piedras Crags are not as well known as the Brazos Cliffs, they happen to be
one of New Mexico’s best places to experience rock climbing that ranges from technically
difficult to pleasant and manageable hiking via non-technical routes. More importantly, they
are open to the public because they fall under the jurisdiction of the Carson National Forest.
However, no camping is allowed.
Access: Drive 30 miles (48 km) west of Taos on US-64. At the intersection with US-285 continue
west on US-64 for 0.75 miles (1.2 km). At the large water tower, turn right and follow the dirt
road for 0.3 miles (482.8 m) to the trailhead. For further information contact the Tres Piedras
Ranger District office, Carson National Forest at 575-758-6200 (zip code 87577 in Taos County).
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TSANKAWI RUINS
The Tsankawi Ruins are separated from Bandelier National Monument by 12 miles (19 km). A
short 1.5 mile (2.4 km) loop trail leads the hiker on well-worn paths over the soft tuff rock
formations up to the top of a large mesa where the piñon pine, juniper and a scattering of
ponderosa pine thrive among the unexcavated ruins of a large pueblo built by the Ancestral
Pueblo people in the 1100s and abandoned because of a prolonged drought by the late 1500s.
Petroglyphs abound on many of the cliff rocks. Archeologists estimate that the pueblo had
multi-storied buildings with about 300 rooms, a central plaza, and underground kivas (a large
room in a Pueblo settlement used for religious and other purposes). They can not explain why
the Ancestral PuebloError! Bookmark not defined. people chose to live at such a lofty location
except for defense purposes. Water had to be hauled from the springs and rivers below and
corn and squash farmed in small patches on the valley floor below. At Tsankawi, homes were
also built along the base of the southside cliffs. Today you can descend via fixed ladders to
these cave dwellings and see the socket holes which were used to hold timbers for the
extended roof. Inside some of the caves you can see the blackened roof as well as the traces of
fragile art work on patches of clay attached to the walls. Even on frosty mornings, Tsankawi
offers spectacular panoramic views of the Sangre de Cristo and Sandia Mountains to the east
and southeast and the Jemez Mountains and the Pajarito Plateau to the east and south.
Tsankawi has a deep religious and cultural significance to the present-day San Ildefonso Pueblo
people.
Ancient Dwelling. Courtesy of Liba Kopeckova
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Access: The trailhead to this detached section of Bandelier National Monument is located on
NM-4 one mile (1.6 km) south of the intersection with NM-520 and just north of the intersection
of East Jemez Road and NM-4. For further information contact the Superintendent, Bandelier
National Monument at Los Alamos (zip code 87544 in Los Alamos County)
VALLES CALDERA NATIONAL PRESERVE
Valles Caldera is a 13.7 mile (22 km) wide volcanic caldera in the Jemez Mountains. Hot springs,
streams, fumaroles, natural gas seep, and volcanic domes cover the floor of this huge caldera.
The highest point of this volcanic formation is a forested lava dome 11,253 foot (3,430 m) high
inside of the caldera. There are also several grassland depressions or valleys inside the caldera,
Valle Grande is the largest of these valleys (approximately 6.23 miles [10 km] long and 3.7 miles
[6 km] wide). The presence of man at Valles Caldera goes back 11,000 years, when large
obsidian spearpoints were made at this location. A number of sites in this national preserve are
sacred to Native Americans. Valle Grande is very popular for cross-country skiing and for the
demanding sport of ski orienteering. Many of the conifers and aspens at Valles Caldera still
display the initials that sheepherders carved many years ago; others have the claw marks of
black bears. The guided excursions held nowadays include geology and archeology tours. Valles
Caldera National Preserve served as the backdrop, together with Shiprock and Angel Fire, for
outdoor scenes of The Lone Ranger movie that was released in 2013.
A forested lava dome in the midst of the Valle Grande, the largest meadow in the Valles Caldera
National Preserve. Courtesy of Brian0918, CC0
Access: From Albuquerque via Los Alamos take I-25 to NM 599 and follow signs on NM-599 to
Los Alamos-Española. At Los Alamos County take the “truck route” to US-4. Valles Caldera is 18
miles (29 km) up US-4 from Los Alamos. Look for the Main Gate at Mile Marker 39.2. For further
instructions contact the Valles Caldera Trust at Jemez Springs (zip code 87025 in Sandoval
County).
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WHEELER PEAK WILDERNESS
There are two moderate-to-strenuous trails to Wheeler Peak, the highest summit (13,161 feet
[4,011 m] high) in New Mexico. The longer one, Wheeler Peak Trail (a.k.a. Bull-of-the-Woods
Trail # 90), is a 14 mile (23 km) round trip. Once you reach the Bull-of-the-Woods Pasture the
trail offers great views of the surrounding mountains, most of which lie above 10,000 feet
(3,048 m) of elevation in the approximately 20,000-acre (8,100 ha) wilderness. The shorter
route takes the hiker by the glacial Williams Lake with its surrounding snow fields and to the
steep series of switchbacks used to ascend the east walls of the basin up to Wheeler Peak. Outof-state hikers need to be aware that during the monsoon rainy season of July and August they
should carry rainwear and warm clothing. This area receives 35 to 40 inches (89 to 102 cm) of
annual precipitation. Above the timberline, marmots are more visible to hikers than pikas. Big
Horn sheep survive at this high elevation and elk and mule deer visit this tundra zone during the
short summer season.
Access: Drive from Taos 4 miles (6.4 km) north on NM-152. Turn right (east) on NM-150 and
continue for 15 miles (24 km) to the Taos Ski Valley. The trailheads of the Wheeler Peak Trail
and the Williams Lake are located in the upper parking area of the Taos Ski Valley and near to
the Phoenix Grill at the Taos Ski Valley, respectively. For further information contact the Carson
National Forest Service at Taos (zip code 87571 in Taos County).
WILD RIVERS RECREATION AREA
The Wild Rivers Recreation Area is located within the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.
Visitors to this place are rewarded with the view of an 800-foot (244 m) deep canyon where the
Rio Grande and the Red River come together. There are several overlooks to enjoy the scenery,
including La Junta Point, which is wheelchair accessible. Four trails for hiking down to the Rio
Grande and two trails to the Red River are steep with switchbacks and considered strenuous to
the inexperienced hiker. Three trails are available for mountain biking. Five campgrounds serve
the general public and camping is permitted in designated sites only. A 13-mile (21 km), paved
Wild Rivers Backcountry Byway reaches the overlooks and recreational areas. The Visitor Center
provides information about recreational activities in the area as well as information about the
geological and natural history of this spectacular area.
Access: From Taos, follow NM-68 north 7 miles (11 km). Take NM-533 and drive approximately
20 miles (32 km) to Questa. Continue 3 miles (4.8 km) past Questa to NM-378. Turn left onto
NM-378 and follow the signs about 12 miles (19 km) west to the Wild Rivers Recreation Area.
For further information contact the Bureau of Land Managememt Field Office at Taos (zip code
87571 in Taos County).
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The South Central Region
BOSQUE DEL APACHE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
In 1939 the federal government established “a refuge for migratory birds and other wildlife.”
This 57,191 acre (23,162 ha) sanctuary provides habitats for over 300 species of birds as well as
mammals, amphibians, and reptiles. In addition to the extensive wetlands, farmlands, and
riparian forests along the Rio Grande, the refuge contains arid foothills and mesas. The annual
migration of sandhill cranes and other birds such as the Canadian geese is a very popular
attraction at the Bosque del Apache. Visitors to the refuge do not easily forget the experience
of hearing and seeing so many thousands of birds taking flight at dawn or coming in to land at
sunset.
Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. Courtesy of John Mulhouse
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Access: From the north (Albuquerque), take I-25 to Exit 139 (San Antonio) then continue east on
US-380 until you come in about ¾ of a mile (1.2 km) to a T intersection (blinking traffic light).
Turn right on Highway 1 and continue for 8 miles (13 km) to Visitor center. From the south (Las
Cruces), take I-25 north to Exit 115 (Highway 1) and continue north for 18.3 miles (29 km) to
Visitor Center (575-835-1828) For further information contact U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service,
Bosque del Apache, San Antonio (zip code 87832 in Socorro County).
BUG SCUFFLE CANYON
Name origin unknown.
Access: Located in the west side of the Sacramento Mountains, southeast of Alamogordo (zip
code 88310 in Otero County).
CAPITAN MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS
Mike Hill, in his book Guide to the Hiking Areas of New Mexico, explains that this 34,658-acre
(14,036 ha) wilderness in the Lincoln National Forest has a very rough topography ranging in
elevation from 6,500 to 10,000 feet (1,981 m to 3,048 m). This forested area was the home of
Smokey the Bear, the well known mascot representing forest fire prevention. Other wild
animals of this wilderness area include mule deer and wild turkey. Brook trout can be found in
small streams. There are deep canyons and rocky outcroppings in this rugged area. At lower
elevations you can find piñon and juniper. Ponderosa trees grow in the middle elevations.
Douglas fir, spruce, aspen, and pine trees thrive at the higher ridges. The Lincoln County Wars
took place not too far away and the notorious Billy the Kid left his mark in this area.
Access: US-380 runs along this east-west trending range of mountains between the towns of
Capitan and Lincoln (zip code 88316 in Lincoln County).
CHLORIDE
This is a ghost town from the 1880s with about 30 buildings located on the eastern slope of the
Black Range Mountain. One of the restored buildings houses a museum with the well-preserved
furnishings and merchandise of that period as well as the tools used in prospecting, mining, and
assaying ore containing silver. In the old days, ore assayers had to personally collect ore from
the mines to verify that each mining claim had silver ore as stated in the claim. Some of these
mines were dug vertically to reach the silver veins. Rain, snow, or a rising water table would
create a pool of water at the bottom of the mine that could drown a miner or an assayer.
Because of this hazard, glory holes became the name given to these mines.
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Old Saloon in Chloride. Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: Take NM-52 for about 31 miles (50 km) west of I-25 to Winston. Chloride is located 2
miles (3.2 km) south of Winston on Forest Road 226. The closest overnight facilities are 40 miles
(64 km) away in Truth of Consequences (zip code 87901 in Sierra County).
CLOUDCROFT
The western approach from Alamogordo is a steep 16 mile (26 km) climb that goes from a
Chihauhuan desert climate to an alpine climate at Cloudcroft (8,700 foot [2,652 m] high
elevation). The main attraction at the village of Cloudcroft is the 1.1 million acre (445,500 ha)
Lincoln National Forest which offers visitors many recreational activities including skiing and
snow boarding at the southernmost ski area of the nation. The name of Cloudcroft means a
cloud in a field.
Access: Located on US-82 which connects with Alamogordo on the west and Artesia on the east
(zip code 88317 in Otero County).
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DIRTY DRAWERS CANYON
According to author Robert Julyan, local lore states the place name came about from “a woman
who lived there whose garments and reputation were both soiled.”
Access: Drive from Alamogordo 16 miles (26 km) on US-82 to Cloudcroft. Make a right turn at
Junction 130 and continue 2 miles ( 3.2 km) to the intersection with NM-6563. Make a right turn
at NM-6563 (Sunspot Hwy) and continue for about 6 miles (9.7 km). Make a left turn at Forest
Road 223. This winding forest road goes by Dirty Drawers Canyon before it reaches the slopes of
Benson Ridge. For further information contact the Sacramento District office of the Lincoln
National Forest at Cloudcroft: 575-682-2551 (zip code 88137 in Otero County).
GRUMBLE GULCH, GRUMBLE DRAW
Robert Julyan, author of The Place Names of New Mexico, points out that these places were
named for a homesteader who apparently was fairly discontented most of the time.
Access: North of Bingham and 13 miles (21 km) west of Claunch, on Chupadero Mesa (zip code
87011 in Socorro County).
JORNADA DEL MUERTO WILDERNESS STUDY AREA
The Jornada del Muerto Wilderness Study Area (WSA) is a 31,147-acre (12,616 ha) zone that
encompasses a section of the nearly 90-mile (145 km) waterless shortcut between Santa Fe and
Chihuahua that took so many lives in the past. In Spanish it means “journey of the dead.” This
historical route, east of the Rio Grande, went through grasslands, sand barrens and ancient lava
fields. The most noticeable plants in the Jornada del Muerto Wilderness Study Area are the tall
yucca trees in the lands next to the lava flows. The fur of deer, antelopes, and coyotes has
taken on the same dark coloring of the lava. Seek information about a safe visit to this
wilderness area from the Socorro Field Office of the Bureau of Land Management at 575-8350412.
Access: Located about 45 miles (72 km) southeast of Socorro (zip code 87801 in Socorro County)
and bordered on the east side by the White Sands Missile Range (zip code 88310 in Otero
County). It’s highly recommended to use a high clearance 4-WD vehicle. According to the Bureau
of Land Management this is a dirt road requiring suitable clearance. Drivers should avoid dirt
roads during rain or snow. There are no marked roads in this wilderness study area. Visitors
should have knowledge and skill in cross country hiking and navigating. Drive east of I-25 at San
Antonio for about 7 miles (11 km) and turn right on County Road 153/Fite Ranch Road (just after
crossing an arroyo about 0.2 miles [0.3 km] past the end of guardrail). Drive about 1.5 miles (2.4
km) and turn right to continue on CR-153/Fite Ranch Rd. The road wil trend to the south, but will
zigzag to the southwest and southeast numerous times for the next 23 ½ miles (38 km) before
reaching the northern border of the Jornada del Muerto Wilderness Study Area. At about 25
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miles (40 km) from US-380, turn west on a road which is the northern border of the Wilderness
Study Area for approximately 2 ¼ miles (3.6 km).
MOCKINGBIRD GAP
Geoarcheologists found Mockingbird Gap to be one of the largest sites in the western United
States containing pieces of artifacts and evidence of tool making technology used by the Clovis
people who inhabited the area 13,500 years ago.
Clovis Point
Access: This site is on the White Sands Missile Range which is managed by the U.S. Army. It is
located 24.6 miles (40 km.) southeast of Socorro in the northern part of the Jornada del Muerto
Basin (zip code 87801 in Socorro County).
ORGAN MOUNTAINS
The Organ Mountains range from 4,600 to 8,990 feet (1,402 to 2,740 m) in height. The vertical
needle-like granite spires resemble the pipes of an organ jutting out alongside peaks and domes.
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Alligator juniper, gray oak, mountain mahogany, and sotol are found on the steep slopes.
Approximately 870 vascular plant species, such as horsetails and ferns, exist in this area.
Wildlife includes desert mule deer, mountain lion, and song birds (according to ornithologists
and bird watchers there are 185 species of birds in this ecosystem). There are two water
resources: Dripping Springs on the west and Aguirre Spring on the east. The Organs are wellknown among rock-climbers because of the high quality of the rock and diversity of climbing
routes.
.
The city of Las Cruces, with the Organ Mountains in the background.”Neomexicus Ic” (CC0)
Access: The Organs are located only 10 miles (16 km) east of Las Cruces, the second largest city
in New Mexico. There are recreational areas and trails on the west and east side of the
mountain. To reach the Aguirre Springs Recreation Area, on the east side of the Organs, from
US-70: take Aguirre Springs Road south. The intersection is 1.1 miles (1.8 km) east of the San
Agustin Pass, through which US-70 runs. Stay on the road for approximately 6 miles (9.7 km)
until you reach the Aguirre Springs Recreation Area (a campground is available). To reach the
Drippings Springs Natural Area, on the west side of the Organs, from I-25: take Exit 1, drive east
on University Avenue. This road will turn into Dripping Springs Road as you leave the city limits
of Las Cruces. Stay on this road, which goes from paved to gravel, until you reach the A.B. Cox
Visitor Center (total mileage: 10 miles [16 km]). To reach the Baylor Pass Trail, on the west side
of the Organs from US-70: take the Baylor Canyon Road/NASA road exit and continue south on
Baylor Canyon Road for approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) until you come to the trailhead parking
lot. To reach the Soledad Canyon/Sierra Vista Trail from I-25: Take Exit 1, then drive east on
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University Avenue/Dripping Springs Road for 4.5 miles (7.3 km). Head south on Soledad Canyon
Road for 1 mile (1.6 km), where the road will turn east at a fire station. Continue east on
Soledad Canyon Road until you come to the BLM entrance gate. For further information contact
the Bureau of Land Management Las Cruces District Office (zip code 88005 in Dona Ana County)
ROBLEDO MOUNTAINS
From the top of the Robledo Mountains you can get a great view of the Rio Grande and the
fertile Mesilla Valley with its fields of pecan trees, chile peppers, corn, onions , and vineyards.
The flora of this dry mountain range includes desert grasses, shrubs, yucca, juniper, and the
common barrel cactus. The southern part of this mountain range (10 miles in length [16 km]) is
known for having one of the largest concentrations of sets of fossilized tracks made by
prehistoric land animals, sea creatures, and insects. Since 2009 the 5,255 acre (2,128 ha) tract
has been designated as The Prehistoric Trackways National Monument. In addition to the lines
of tracks there are fossilized plants and petrified wood material on the site. According to Mike
Hill , author of Guide to the Hiking Places of New Mexico, “no system of trails is available in this
mountain range.” Roads are not maintained and there are no facilities for the visitor in this
national monument.
Access: There are many jeep trails at the lower elevations of this mountain range that branch off
NM-430 on the south end and from County Road D59 on the north end. Drive on I-25 to Exit 19
(eight miles [13 km] northwest of Las Cruces). For further information contact Bureau of Land
Management, Las Cruces District (zip code 88005 in Dona Ana County).
ROUGH AND READY HILLS
The Rough and Ready Hills are popular for rock climbing. But if you are not a rock climber, you
can hike up the gentle and short slope on the western side of the mountain. The view of the
Organ and Franklin Mountains to the east is great. Watch out for bee hives.
Access: From Las Cruces, take I-10 west. Exit at the Las Cruces Airport. Take the north side
frontage road west to County Road 09. Drive for 11.5 miles (19 km). This paved road goes by the
entrance to Corralitos Ranch which owns the land where the hills are located. Continue on a dirt
road that ends in a parking lot (zip code 88005 in Dona Ana County).
SUNSPOT
Sunspot is a small settlement in the Sacramento Mountains. It is located at an elevation of
9,200 feet (2,804 m) within the Lincoln National Forest. The National Solar Observatory at
Sacramento Peak welcomes visitors during daytime hours. In addition to tours and talks given
at the Sunspot Astronomy Visitor Center, you can walk up to the Scenic View platform. When
it’s not raining or overcast, you can see the spectacular 275 square miles (712 km2) of the
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White Sands National Monument to the northwest. Between Sunspot and Cloudcroft hikers
travel the 13.5 mile (22 km) Rim Trail, a National Recreation Trail, to gaze at the Tularosa Basin
some 5000 feet (1,524 m) below. Sunspot has no gas station, grocery store, or restaurant, so
make sure you have enough gas and food to get back to Cloudcroft.
Access: From Cloudcroft take US-82. Turn south on CR-63/CR-65/NM-130 and drive 1.8 miles
(2.9 km) then turn right on State Rd 6563. Drive 14.8 miles (23.8 km) then continue on Coronal
Loop for 0.3 miles ( 482.8 m) (zip code 88349 in Otero County).
THREE RIVERS PETROGLYPH NATIONAL RECREATION SITE
This is one of the largest and most intriguing petroglyph locations in the Southwest. The rock
art includes over 21,000 images of birds, animals, humans, handprints, face masks, and
geometric patterns scattered over 50 acres (20 ha). Archeolologists established that the
Jornada branch of the Mogollon people who lived in a nearby pueblo along the banks of the
Three Rivers creek between 900 and 1400 AD were responsible for creating the rock art in this
area of the Tularosa Basin west of the Sacramento Mountains. An irregular 0.5-mile (0.8 km)
trail connects the visitor shelter with the field of petroglyphs and a shorter one takes the hiker
to a partially excavated pueblo. Herds of elk can be seen from the site at certain times of the
year.
Three Rivers Petroglyphs in New Mexico, USA. Courtesy of Dusty Matthews (CC BY 2.0)
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Access: Drive 30 miles (48 km) south of Carrizozo on US-54. Turn east at Three Rivers. Continue
on paved County Road B-30/Forest Road 579 and follow signs for 5 miles (8 km) to the Three
Rivers Petroglyph National Recreation Site (zip code 88301 in Lincoln County). Contact for
further information the Bureau of Land Management Field Office at Las Cruces (zip code 88005
in Dona Ana County).
TRINITY SITE
This site, designated as a National Historic Landmark, was where the first atomic bomb was
detonated on July 15, 1945. It is located in the Jornada del Muerto Desert basin about 35 miles
(56 km) southeast of Socorro. The site is within the White Sands Missile Range which is
operated by the U.S. Army.
Access: Coming from either Albuquerque or Las Cruces, take I-25 to Exit 139 (San Antonio) and
head 12 miles (19 km) east on US-380. Turn on Stallion Gate and head south 5 miles (8 km) of
US-380. If you are coming from Alamogordo on US-54, take a left turn at US-380 (Carrizozo)
and head west 53 miles (85 km). Turn on Stallion Gate and head south 5 miles (8 km). Note: The
Alamogordo Chamber of Commerce sponsors a convoy for visitors that desire a tour. For more
information call 575-437-6120. DUE TO FINANCIAL CONSTRAINTS THE SITE WILL BE OPEN ONLY ON THE
FIRST SATURDAY OF APRIL. Please call for more information the Public Affairs Office of the U.S.
Army at the White Sands Missile Range at 575-678-1134..
TRUTH OR CONSEQUENCES
Originally named Hot Springs, this city renamed itself Truth or Consequences in 1950, the name
of a popular radio program (the city is known within New Mexico as “T or C”). The host of the
radio program, Ralph Edwards, visited “T or C“ each May for the next fifty years and the event
was celebrated with a parade, beauty contest, and a stage show. This spa city has a number of
commercially-operated hot springs. Geothermal energy is used in some public buildings such as
the Senior Citizens’ Center. Spaceport America, the world’s first purpose-built commercial
space port, is located 20 miles (32 km) southeast.
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Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: From Albuquerque drive 149 miles (240 km) south on I-25 to Exit 79. Continue to nearby
Truth or Consequences. From Las Cruces drive 69 miles (111 km) north on I-25 to Exit 75.
Continue to nearby Truth or Consequences ( zip code 87901 in Sierra County).
TULAROSA BASIN
This huge arid basin lies east of the Rio Grande and covers about 6,500 square miles or 16,800
square kilometers (35% larger than Connecticut). It holds interesting natural attractions such as
the White Sands National Monument and the Carrizozo Malpais LavaError! Bookmark not
defined. Flow, as well as the historic sites of Three Rivers Petroglyph Site and Trinity (nuclear
test) Site. Immediately east of the Tularosa Basin lies the Sacramento Mountains This is a
wonderful hiking, fishing, hunting, and skiing area, and home of the Mescalero Apache people.
As operators of the Ski Apache Resort, they sponsor a commendable ski instruction program for
disabled persons, regardless of severity of impairment or financial limits. For information about
their schedule call Ski Apache Disabled Skiers Program at 575-464-3193.
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Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: From Albuquerque drive about 85 miles (137 km) south on I-25 to the intersection with
US-380 (Exit 139). Drive east approximately 66 miles (106 km) on US-380 to reach Carrizozo. For
further information contact the Forest Supervisor, Lincoln National Forest in Alamogordo (zip
code 88310 in Otero County) or the Bureau for Land Management, Las Cruces District Office (zip
code 88005 in Dona Ana County).
WHITE MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS
The south-central part of New Mexico is a region of plains and basins with isolated forested
mountain ranges that reach above 10,000 feet (3,048 m) of elevation. The latter is a region with
moderate to strenuous hiking trails. The 48,000-acre (19,440 ha) White Mountain Wilderness,
located just north and west of Ruidoso, has the highest peak in southern New Mexico, Sierra
Blanca, at a height of 11,793 feet (3,595 m). This mountain retains snow longer than any other
southern New Mexico summit. The Mescalero Apaches do not allow climbers on Sierra Blanca
except with their permission. The wilderness has 110 miles (177 km) of trails including loop
trails. The 27-mile (43 km) White Mountain Crest Trail has campsites at convenient places and is
considered one of New Mexico’s finest longer trails.
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Access: The main entrances to the White Mountain Wilderness are the South Fork Campground
on the east side and the Three Rivers Campground on the westside. The South Fork Campground
can be reached via Carrizozo on US-380, 9 miles (15 km) to US-37 junction, then continue 18
miles (29 km) south on US-37 to the turnoff sign for the South Fork Campground. The Three
Rivers Campground on the westside can be accessed by driving south on US-54 to the Three
Rivers turnoff for County Road B30/Forest Road 579. The Petroglyph National Recreation Site is
located 4 miles (6.4 km) east from the turnoff. Continue for 3 miles (4.8 km) to a road fork and
drive on Forest Road 579 for 7 miles (11 km) east to the Three Rivers Campground. For further
information contact the Lincoln National Forest Smokey Bear Ranger District, Ruidoso (zip code
88345 in Lincoln County).
WHITE SANDS NATIONAL MONUMENT
The 147,200-acre (59,616 ha) White Sands National Monument is located on the very large and
arid Tularosa Basin. The extensive gypsum dunefield occupies 275 square miles (712 km2) of the
basin. The white dunes are formed from gypsum-laden water and selenite crystals. Park ranger
guides will point out selenite crystals to visitors in a guided tour to the Lake Lucero playas (dry
lakebed). The history, geology, plants, and animals living in the sand dunes are topics of
conversation during your visit to this unique place. Fossilized foot prints left by mammoths and
other extinct species have been found on the alkali flats along the playas of Lake Lucero.
According to the National Park Service staff there are 44 different species of mammals in this
ecosystem. Most are nocturnal. The kangaroo rat, for example, eats only dry seeds and never
drinks water. Full moon hikes are available (no moonglasses needed). Since there is very little
light pollution the White Sands National Monument is a good place for stargazing. Sledding
down the slip face of white dunes is a popular sport for young and old. The Big Dune Trail (loop
trail) leads to sites for backcountry primitive camping (backpaking). However, overnight
camping in an RV or other vehicle is not allowed.
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Courtesy of John Mulhouse
Access: From Alamogordo drive 15 miles (24 km) west on US-70 to the Visitor Center. From Las
Cruces drive 52 miles (84 km) east on US-70, one mile (1.6 km) past the Border Patrol station to
the Visitor Center. For further information contact the National Park Service at Alamogordo (zip
code 88310 in Otero County).
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