Is Latvia the greenest country on earth?

Take your FREE copy!
winter/spring 2015
Is Latvia
the greenest
country
on earth?
Marians Pahars:
Leading by
example
King for a day
More passengers,
more routes
What wonderful
neighbours!
A WORD FROM
THE CHAIRMAN
c o n t e n t s
W
Natural benefits
14
TRAVEL PEOPLE
Leading by example
Airport, the leading airport in the
Baltic region and one of the most mod-
4TRADITIONS
elcome to Riga International
ern air traffic hubs in Central and Eastern
Europe. We hope you enjoy your short
time with us, exploring our restaurants, cafés, shops and other facilities. Our commitment is to consistently increase and improve our
services and quality for all our customers.
Despite the ongoing problems in Europe, in the east and in the
22ECONOMY
west, the number of passengers passing through our airport shows
from or through Riga in 2014, a slight rise from the previous year.
Journey into the unknown
no signs of a slowdown. More than 4.81 million passengers flew to,
More airlines are launching routes here (for more information, see
24
BUSINESS FEATURE
the articles about the airport at the back of this magazine), while
The road to recovery
others are building on already proven success at Riga International
26
RESTAURANT REVIEW
launch new routes – this year to destinations such as Dubrovnik,
Medieval night out
28
Airport. The Latvian flag carrier airBaltic, for example, continues to
Thessaloniki, Rhodes, Pisa and Aalborg – its third to Denmark after
Copenhagen and Billund.
We are delighted too that Wizz Air will very soon be basing a
FAMOUS TRAVEL
DESTINATION
second aircraft here, allowing it to launch more routes to cities like
have at least 11 of its popular low-cost routes up and running from
What wonderful neighbours!
38PHILOSOPHY
Try walking in my shoes
44ENVIRONMENT
Is Latvia the greenest country on earth?
Hamburg (Lubeck), Stavanger and Liverpool. Wizz Air expects to
Riga by summer 2015.
The continued presence of reliable flag carriers and legacy airlines
from all over Europe means that Latvia will be easily reachable for the
duration of its six-month presidency of the Council of the European
Union in the first half of this year. The airport’s newly expanded and
freshly modernised VIP Terminal is now offering high-quality services,
so that visitors get a positive first and final impression of Latvia.
52HEALTH
terminal means greater safety for passengers. The upgrade of Riga
King for a day
International Airport to CAT II international status means that on rare
58
AIRLINE NEWS
raise the safety of airline operations.
airBaltic recognised as world leader
60 DESTINATION GUIDE
Misunderstood Zurich
64 RIGA INTERNATIONAL
Recently completed modernisation on the runway side of the
days of poor visibility, for example, we can reduce flight delays and
Meanwhile, construction work is beginning on an extension of the
passenger terminal building. This will allow us to expand the gate
areas for Schengen and non-Schengen passengers and improve the
comfort of the travel experience in Riga.
Enjoy your time at RIGA International Airport!
AIRPORT
More passengers, more routes
Andris Liepiņš
Chairman of the Board of RIGA International Airport
winter/spring 2015
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
3
Photos courtesy of Latvian Tourism Development Agency
Traditions
NATURAL BENEFITS
In traditional societies,
folk medicine replaces
the role of the drug companies. After all, what
did we do before the
arrival of Pfizer, GlaxoSmithKline and Novartis?
4
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
I
n a 21st century where modern science and
Increasingly, certain sections of society
technology dominate our lives we seem to
are, when they can, abandoning modern phar-
deal in the synthetic rather than the natural.
maceuticals. Prozac, Viagra and Aripiprazole.
But we so easily forget that all modern medicine
Instead, where it is possible, they are turning
is based upon ancient therapeutic wisdom and
to natural concoctions, ‘home remedies’ and to
using nature's boundless bounty to save us from
nature. Others of course mock these people as
our aches, pains and sicknesses.
‘old fashioned’, ‘out of touch with reality’ and so
winter/spring 2015
forth. But one of the world’s leading independent
this will pull open a kitchen drawer, dip your
in the long run to disease and debilitating illness.
online healthy lifestyle websites, NaturalNews,
hands in, and start rummaging through the doz-
Do you ever instead think of using a herb, natural
recently reported on a study showing that the
ens of different tablets, creams and nasal sprays
tea, fruit, vegetable or something as obvious as
common weed milkweed can completely cure
you have stored away. But why do we do this?
honey to do the job instead?
many skin cancers, for example.
Particularly when it has been proven that over
In Latvia, particularly in the countryside, if
What do you do if you have a headache,
use of certain pharmaceuticals undermines our
people are feeling sick, they are more inclined
runny nose or hangover? Most of you reading
immune system and makes us more susceptible
to knock up a natural concoction made from
The common
weed milkweed can
completely
cure many skin
cancers
6
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
The 1685
tariff of
Riga apothecaries
shows
usage of
306 medicinal plants
and began to realise that certain things are
good for our health and can help heal us. We
tend to call the people who do this ‘wise old
ladies’ these days. Once upon a time, these
same ladies who took such an interest in the
health of their children, grandchildren and kids
in the village were commonly thought of us as
being raganas (witches) and, in the case of
men – burtnieki, or wizards.
According to the book ‘Apothecaries of
plants and herbs found in the back garden and
nesses and how they can be cured. Libraries
Olden Days’: ‘The 1685 tariff of Riga apoth-
nearby forest.
are full of books on the subject. Countless
ecaries shows usage of 306 medicinal plants,
Generation after generation of Latvians
magazines contain articles. Pharmacology was
at least half of which were grown locally. Bark
have handed down from one to the next a
born out of folk medicine. Put simply: once
was used from 23 of these plants, while roots
collective memory of what causes certain ill-
upon a time, we observed our environment
are mentioned in connection with 142 plants;
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•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015

ви д н а жи те л ьс тво в Л атви и

r e s ide n c e pe r m it i n L a t v i a
flowers appear 70 times, and seeds 144 times.
Nowadays, first and foremost, Latvians turn
Attempts to separate effective ingredients from
to tea as their health saviour. There are esti-
these raw materials were made by distilling,
mated to be 3,000 different varieties of tea in the
sublimating as well as dissolving them in various ways’.
10
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
Other remedies popular in Latvian
folk medicine include
the use of
mustard in
footbaths
winter/spring 2015
world and tens of thousands more herbal brews.
Camomile is one tea acknowledged even in the
most ardently pro-pharmaceutical societies as
Latvians have a tradition whereby plants,
are then stored away in an equally dry place
having the magical ability to de-stress us and
herbs and grasses are collected before mid-
ready for use in the winter months when the
calm us down.
summer, left to dry for a couple of weeks, and
body’s immune system is usually most tested.
According to the Latvian Institute, amongst
vitamins are a wonderful healthy cocktail for
the most popular Latvian teas for common
the body’s ailments and mineral shortages.
ailments are:
Common cold – raspberry tea
Sore throat – milfoil tea
Overdoing the booze – marigold tea
Improved blood flow – St John’s Wort tea
Latvians are also crazy about serving up
berry water. They don’t call it berry water but
this is often effectively what it is: a combination of berries which were boiled and stored
earlier in the year, and whose free radicals and
The bathhouse
is also an
essential part
of Latvian folk
medicine
Again, these berry drinks have a whole range
of positive benefits from curing the common

cold to improving an individual’s general state
of mind.
Other remedies popular in Latvian folk
medicine include the use of mustard in footbaths to cure the common cold. Turpentine
cess. The bathhouse is also an essential part
to possess healing properties (if drank in
can be purchased in Latvian chemists and
of Latvian folk medicine and indeed Latvian
moderation).
is rubbed all over the feet and back to help
national identity. Sweating and beating out
More broadly speaking Latvian folk tradi-
improve blood flow and the breathing pro-
negative energies and nasty toxins is one of
tions extend well beyond folk medicines to
the principle ways Latvians protect them-
include funeral rites, name day celebrations,
selves from what life has to throw at them.
and commemoration of the dead, seasonal
Rigas Black Balsams is an alcoholic beverage
festivals, traditional dress, and ancient folk
dating back several centuries and reputed
song (dainas).
Learning more
about Latvian
folk medicine:
If you want to research further about
Latvian folk medicine as well as modern
medicine in Latvia we recommend visits
to both the ‘Paul Stradins Museum for
History of Medicine’ and the ‘Pharmacy
Museum’.
l Riga
minutes from centra
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Located on K
School of Riga
the International
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“We are a respectful, learning-focused community
where each student is inspired to achieve his or her
potential and to become an ethical, confident, and
internationally-minded citizen of tomorrow.”
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•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
vides an
represented and it pro
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Tel. +371 6762 4622 | [email protected] | www.isriga.lv
Travel people
LEADING BY
EXAMPLE
Y
ou are from Latvia but were born in
in Riga stadium when I was just four. After my
Ukraine. What are your first memo-
first steps I began to kick a ball around. And as
ries of growing up?
a kid I just loved football and played it every day
My family used to go to the Ukraine every
summer time to see my grandparents. My mum
whenever I could: at school, in the backyard,
with my friends.
was pregnant while we were in Ukraine and my
parents decided at the time it would be good to
How did you first get into football as a kid?
stay in the country to give birth due to the nice
I played my first organised football from the
environment there. So I was born in Ukraine but
age of eight. My family moved to Purvciems
came straight back to live here in my homeland
where we lived opposite the 87 vidus skola.
of Latvia. Every summer I went there to visit
One day I was at school and there was a knock
my grandparents. There was always a great
on the classroom door. This guy came in with
family atmosphere. I love Ukraine, but I grew up
a moustache and asked: 'Who wants to play
in Latvia and spent my whole life here in Riga.
football?' I was 8 years old and that man was
Almost all of my childhood memories revolve
Jurijs Andrejevs. Today, 31 years later, he is the
around football. My father took me to the school
head of football education in Latvia. Before that
14
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
With those
two VHS tapes
he decided to
approach most
of the clubs in
England to see if
they would like
to give me a trial
March 6, 7
Exhibition –
fair“MADE IN LIEPAJA”
March 18–21
Liepaja 390 – Anniversary Day
March 18–21
International Piano Stars Festival
April 10–25
Jazz Days
May 9
Opening of the tourism season and
the Tweed Ride
Allure of the beach
Photo courtesy of Artūrs Kondrāts, FHM magazine photo session
Marians Pahars is the head coach of the
Latvian national football team. As a talented young player, he became the first
Latvian ever to play in the English Premier League where he quickly became a
household name. Gateway Riga’s Justin Walley met Marians at the Latvian
Football Federation’s Headquarters,
where they discussed Marians’
distinguished playing career and
his job as one of the youngest and
brightest new coaches in international football.
MAKE
YOUR PLANS
FOR LIEPAJA!
February 14
SMELT FEST
Enjoy the whitest sand, most beautiful
sunsets, craziest beach parties
Culture and music dwells in Liepaja
Experience culture, listen to the musical
rhythms of Liepaja and find your own!
An active holiday by the water
Take some energy from the city where
the wind is born
May 16–17
International Night of Museums in
Liepaja and surroundings
May 23–24
Liva village Fest
May 29–31
Grobina Town Festival and
International Viking Festival ”Seeburg
2015”
May 30–31
Family Festival
July 10–11
International Music Festival ”Summer
Sound Liepaja 2015”
July 10–11
The International Workshop of Artists
and Drawers ”Liepajas Marina 2015”
www.liepajaskultura.lv
July 11
The Sea Festival
Discover what else to see and do in
Liepaja, where to sleep, eat and
go out at: www.liepaja.travel
July 18
Liepaja Half Marathon
July 24–27
International Electronic Music Festival
”Shine Cafe”
July 25 – August 1
Techno Windsurfing European
Championship
Liepaja events calendar:
kalendars.liepaja.lv
and then got taken to the first team to become
a full-time Skonto player.
What was it like playing in that Skonto team
which was brimming with talented Latvian
internationals?
Photo courtesy of Zigismunds Zālmanis, NIKON
Yes, it was unbelievable. Most of the national team were there as well as the national team
coach Starkovs. There were so many experienced players, many of whom became my
Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation
friends later on. Almost immediately I got my
chance to play for the national team. All of this
happened so quickly and naturally. There were
so many emotions. I worked hard every day
and I suppose I grew every day as a player and
became more confident.
You were the first Latvian to ever play in
Gary Johnson took the tapes and showed them
ing a trial with Werder Bremen. Skonto wanted
the English Premier League. How did it all
to Graham Taylor (former England national team
to make money out of me and the offers didn't
happen?
manager).
quite suit them, so I stayed.
It’s a long story (laughs)...
At that time there was a guy from Belarus, a
No, Mister Taylor said. I wasn't good enough
and that seemed to be the end of that.
Gary Johnson phoned Dave Jones at
Southampton and suggested he have a look at
he was also the head coach of Latvian youth
Did you imagine yourself ever becoming a
retired football player, his name was Alexander.
But I was already attracting attention from
me. I went to play at the Commonwealth Cup in
football teams and the Latvian national team
professional when you were growing up?
He went to England and through some contacts
Dynamo Moscow, who offered me big money to
Moscow and all I knew was that an Englishman
join them, as well as an Italian club, before hav-
was coming to watch me. I got so nervous and
head coach. So during almost my entire pro-
No, not really. I didn't think about football in
within the Latvian embassy he received video
fessional career as a player we spent that time
that way. I also went to ballroom dancing and
tapes: one of Skonto's 2-3 away defeat in the
next to each other.
combined the two hobbies for as long as I could.
I would have continued doing both but one day
of us were boys. I of course stuck my hand up
my dance coach told me: 'You have to choose
and said: 'I want'.
between dancing and football and just do one'.
Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation
From my class of thirty kids I guess twenty
So it forced me to give up my dancing.
But one sport was never enough for me.
I did six or seven months of fencing which is
good for things like balance and stretching. I also
swam and did some karate classes. I think it is
important that kids do all different kinds of stuff.
Being good at several sports can really improve
you at one specific sport.
You soon found yourself playing for the best
team in Latvia
That Saturday morning we met at eleven
I played at Pardaugava with Jurijs until he
at the school stadium. All the classes came
left to join Skonto Riga as Aleksandrs Starkovs'
and there must have been forty or fifty of us.
assistant. I dreamt of playing there. They had
Jurijs arrived, threw a ball onto the pitch and
the best pros, money and opportunities and, of
shouted: 'Play!'
course, played the best football.
I had to stop
playing earlier
than I wanted
and I was
never able to
reach my full
potential but I
have no regrets
about that
UEFA Champions league against Barcelona. We
had led that game 2-1 before Stoichkov scored
the winner in the 90th minute. The second tape
was of our match the following season against
Inter Milan.
Alexander watched those two tapes and for
some reason he liked me despite the fact I only
played 30 minutes against Barcelona. And that
was that. With those two VHS tapes he decided
to approach most of the clubs in England to see
if they would like to give me a trial. After some
unsuccessful efforts, finally he knocked on the
door at Watford academy. Gary Johnson was
sitting there. He was polite and friendly, and
Alexander asked him to 'please take a look at
the videos'. Gary took the tapes and his number,
put them in a drawer and said he'd watch them
when he had a chance.
Three weeks passed and Gary didn't phone,
Then one day he called and told me I could
so Alexander returned to Gary’s office unan-
So we played twenty-a-side with all of us
Around that time I started to think football
have a trial. I played in a friendly in Jurmala. It
nounced and asked him if he had watched the
trying to get the ball and show what we could
could be my long term profession and Jurijs told
went well and Starkovs told me he wanted to
tapes. 'No, sorry, I forgot', Gary told him hon-
do. After the game, the better players were
me he wanted me to join him at Skonto but that
me to sign for Skonto. I signed a contract, and
estly. 'Here they are, still in my drawer'.
asked to fill out a form. I was one of those kids
myself and a couple of other talented youth team
began playing for Skonto-Metals in 1995, which
'Let’s watch them together,' Alexander told
who passed the first 'trial'. I then signed for the
players needed to be patient and wait for him
was effectively Skonto's development squad. I
him. And Gary watched the film and said: 'Yes,
Daugava academy.
to come back one day.
played there for a couple of months, did OK,
you are right. He’s a good boy.' It was then that
16
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
English football supporters can
lift you up
to greater
heights or
they can
destroy you
if they don't
like you
winter/spring 2015
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
17
Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation
in the first game I played terrible. In the second
where I could be used in a more valuable way.
match I was even worse. I thought to myself:
I was a player who could run with the ball. For
you have blown your opportunity. And by the
example, Messi today is sometimes more effec-
time we played our third match I just relaxed
tive when he comes from deep.
and concentrated on my own game instead of
worrying about the Englishman in the stands.
I took the ball from the half-way line and beat
five or six players before scoring. As it turned
out, Gary had missed the first two games and
walked in to the stadium just as I scored that
wonder goal. He got straight on the phone to
Dave Jones and told him 'You have got to look
at this boy!'
I was offered a trial, and scored a hat trick for
Southampton reserves against Oxford United.
You were a prolific goal scorer in the EPL.
What are your memories from that time and
could you have scored more goals if certain
managers had continued to play you in a more
central role as a striker?
I wasn’t a big goal scorer before I went to
England. I scored 19 for Skonto one season
but 10 of those were penalties. I played deeper
18
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
I was lucky
enough to
be coached
by Strachan,
Hoddle
and Jones.
And, in my
final days,
by Harry
Redknapp
winter/spring 2015
I think the way I played and the style of
Southampton combined and worked well. That
team created a lot of chances and I only needed one or two to score. When I played for the
Latvian national team, we had matches where
you have one chance to score and you have to
take that single opportunity.
I know you are still held in very high regard
by Southampton fans
My time at Southampton was the best part
of my career. I had to stop playing earlier than
I wanted and I was never able to reach my full
potential but I have no regrets about that. I still
receive messages from Southampton fans. I
almost cried when I received some of those
nice letters. My time at Southampton was so
long ago now but I am told they still sometimes
sing my name on the terraces. I don't know how
to react to that. It is incredible.
of him because he was coming towards the end
be going wrong and what advice I have to give
I also met Pep Guardiola, who said almost
of his career but he was the best, especially
them to avoid those same mistakes in the future.
the identical same thing: 'Make your own phi-
in training.
losophy and do it!'
What did you learn from your playing days
What made you decide to take up coaching?
Photo courtesy of Viktors Sopirins, LFF
Photo courtesy of Zigismunds Zālmanis, NIKON
I didn't imagine a life without football. When
that you didn’t learn as part of your many
You have a choice: Who do you have in your
coaching qualifications?
team: a young Maradona or Lionel Messi?
I quit playing I spent half a year with no job. I
Theory and practice are of course two com-
Maradona was my idol as a kid. Messi is
did some courses and I tried to help with player
pletely different things. There is lots of knowl-
my favourite today. That is incredible! You have
deals. The first deal I worked on turned into a
edge courses can't give but the same applies
chosen my two favourite players from all time!
big mess. I sorted out an air ticket for a player
in the other way. The relationships with play-
I would go for Messi.
to go for a trial with a club but he decided not
ers are the most important thing. You have to
to turn up for the plane and ended up signing
think about your personal relationship with the
for someone else. The club asked me what
players, fans, coaches and the press. These are
the hell I was playing at. I told them it wasn't
things you cannot learn with coaching badges.
my fault but immediately realised all of that
You have got to watch as many different training
wasn't for me. I was very lucky that things
sessions as possible; to learn about different
turned out that way.
mentalities. Every day as a coach I learn new
I started studying for my Category A (coach-
things.
What was your greatest moment as a league
so natural and amazing. After the game I was
ship with the fans
player?
being hauled around the inside of the stadium
and asked me to be his assistant at Skonto.
In England, football is like a religion. My son
It is difficult to say. When you win and you
meeting supporters groups and sponsors and
What is the main difference between coach-
was born there and I regard Southampton as being
score, nothing can beat it. If you lose, you lock
being given champagne. I didn’t speak a word of
ing at national and club level?
my second home. I was just a young lad when I
yourself away and stay at home. If you score
English and I just remember laughing to myself
I enjoy it. There’s not a massive difference.
went there. So in many senses I grew up there.
two goals against Newcastle then you are King
and thinking: Where am I? What am I doing?
You can analyse, train, improve individuals, and
The most important thing for me was the
of Southampton for that weekend. You could
How did this all happen?
work on tactics. So much more than you can do
supporters. They gave me a massive lift. English
go to any restaurant or pub and eat for free;
as a player. The time between games is the big
football supporters can lift you up to greater
Your greatest moment as a national team
difference. Our last game was against Holland
heights or they can destroy you if they don't like
player?
in November and our next match is in March in
you. I saw experienced internationals that fans
For Latvia when we qualified for the
didn't like for some reason and they seemed to
European championships finals after knocking
be destroyed by them. If the fans don't like you,
you are nothing. For some reason they liked me.
I think they saw you as being a very honest,
hard-working player…as well as a talented
one.
Perhaps. I know that their support lifted me up
and made me into a better player. And then there
were the fantastic players and coaches. I was lucky
enough to be coached by Strachan, Hoddle and
Jones. And, in my final days, by Harry Redknapp.
In a parallel universe,
Marians Pahars
is the captain
of a ship!
nobody would let you pay. I never got fed up
You must be very impressed by what
of people coming up to me and asking for a
Southampton have achieved in the past few
photo or autograph. My first goal at the Dell
years. I am guessing you look out for their
was probably my favourite moment. We were
results every Saturday?
their last game live against Swansea.
They lost 1-0
Yes, but they didn't deserve to lose.
20
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
Do you miss playing?
Your lowest moment in football?
very happy coaching. I am enjoying coaching
Now no. Only for the first two years. I am
more than I did playing.
year's 6-0 defeat to Holland. I stood there on
the side line and realised I couldn't do anything
I think many people will be surprised to hear
to help. That’s the worst feeling. I have never felt
that
You have to
think about
your personal
relationship
with the players, fans,
coaches and
the press
that bad in football. When you lose as a player
I think a big reason was because I was con-
there are eleven of you or maybe even fourteen
stantly in pain at the end of my playing career.
Your advice to any newly qualified coach just
who are responsible, but when you lose like
It became too much. I hated not being able to
starting their respective careers?
that as a manager there is much greater shame.
play my best. When you coach, you can shape,
José Mourinho said: ' If someone asked me
Everyone naturally blames you.
you can develop. There are so many things to
ten years ago, I said: be yourself. Now I say:
enjoy; so much more than playing.
be what they want you to be'.
As a player, my low points were the injuries.
Do you sometimes watch your players and
baller and later a manager, what do you
think Marians Pahars would be doing in a
parallel universe?
I’d be on the sea. My father was a sailor.
I was always waiting for him to return and I
wanted to do the same thing as him. In a parallel universe, Marians Pahars is the captain of a
ship! I love the sea!

Latvia’s upcoming
Euro 2016 qualifiers:
28 March
Czech Republic (Away)
am such a young coach. I probably need advice
12 June
Netherlands (Home)
It is too early for me to give much advice as I
The best player you ever played with and
If you hadn’t become a professional foot-
rather than giving it. I met Sir Alex Ferguson in
3 September Turkey (Away)
substitute. I remember Doddsy hitting a long
Thierry Henry. He was my idol. But at
At the very start of my coaching career, yes.
St. Petersburg after last year's Brazil World Cup.
6 September Czech Republic (Home)
ball to Beattie who knocked the ball into the
that time, there were so many names: Giggs,
I used to shout when I saw players not doing the
I asked him that very same question you are
10 October
Iceland (Away)
penalty area and I ran onto it and headed home.
Beckham and Vieira.
most elementary things correctly but certainly
asking me now. He told me: 'There is no secret.
13 October
Kazakhstan (Home)
losing 3-2 to Blackburn and I came on as a
Of course I do, every Saturday. I watched
the Czech Republic.
out Turkey was unbelievable.
My lowest point has definitely been last
Photo courtesy of Latvian Football Federation
ing license). Not long after that Starkovs called
You seemed to have a very special relation-
against?
think: ‘I could do better than that still!’?
I ran to the fans and was hugging them and
Le Tiss (Matthew Le Tissier) is the best
not anymore. Today, when I see players making
Work hard. Be yourself. Don’t copy anyone. Find
everyone seemed to be hugging me. It was
player I have played with. I didn't see the best
mistakes, I’m analysing where I or they might
your way'.
winter/spring 2015
winter/spring 2015
Cover photo courtesy of Nora Krevņeva /
Latvian Football Federation archive
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21
Economy
policy and we have indeed returned to the dis-
expected rebirth of Liepajas Metalurgs later
equilibrium days of 'beggar they neighbour', then
this year, should lead to a positive reversal
all bets are off.
in fortunes in that sector at least, and for the
For there is no longer any point us discussing
Latvia's economy as if it operates as an indi-
port town of Liepaja it is extremely welcome
news.
vidual cog in the machine. Arguably, economic
Lower Eurozone demand and the Russian
decisions made in Brussels, Washington, Tokyo
ban on EU food imports will not benefit Latvia.
and Moscow now determine the fortunes of
The implications of a weak euro, QE and the
Latvia more than they have ever done in the
ongoing political uncertainty in Greece, Ukraine
regained independence years.
and the Middle East leave us with more ques-
Latvia posted one of the highest GDP
tions than answers.
growth figures in the EU in 2014 but the broken
relationship between Russia and the EU has
Photos courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and European People's Partyand
led to the loss of export markets, threatens
energy security, and also dents Latvia's fast
expanding tourism sector (already there has
been a 6% reduction in the number of visiting
Russian tourists).
Ernst and Young predict the Latvian economy
will grow by 3.4% in 2015. The Latvian Bank
is less positive and even slashed their growth
rate forecast from 2.7% to 2% in mid-January,
saying that: 'it is obvious that the current geopolitical situation and the developments in the
global economy are likely to result in a steeper
slowdown of economic growth in Latvia'.
However, while industrial production contracted by 0.9% annually in November, the
Lower Eurozone
demand and the
Russian ban on
EU food imports
will not benefit
Latvia
JOURNEY INTO
THE UNKNOWN
We live in uncertain economic times. In 2015,
things are changing so rapidly that the economic
environment of tomorrow can be turned on its head
by a single event today
2
014 was a tumultuous year: events in
the removal of currency pegs, trade embargos,
Ukraine and beyond have removed any
the fear of deflation...the fear of inflation...cur-
remaining semblance of a status quo
rency wars. Where this all ends, nobody knows.
when we talk of economics and economic
Monetary policy no longer operates within
events. Quantitative easing policies across the
the normal rules of engagement, with policy
world, oil price shocks, currency devaluations,
discipline seemingly a thing of the past. Now,
22
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winter/spring 2015
Latvia posted
one of the highest GDP growth
figures in the EU
in 2014
in 2015, the European Central Bank has entered
the quantitative easing experiment along with
the likes of the United States, Japan and the
UK. Having run out of all conventional tools left
remaining to them, ECB policy makers have
decided to press the 'print' button and see where
that takes them. And if exchange rate policy is
now one of the main instruments of monetary
winter/spring 2015
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GATEWAY RIGA
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23
Business feature
around 20% in EU overall registration data. In
Latvia, the premium segment had a 14% market
THE ROAD TO RECOVERY
Gateway Riga spoke to Ingus Rutins, the VicePresident of the Latvian Automotive Association
about the current trends in the Latvian automobile
industry, and the road to sales recovery.
P
lease describe the Latvian car market
registered new passenger cars and light com-
as you see it right now
mercials (table 1).
Photos and graphs courtesy of Inchcape Motors Latvia, Latvian Automotive Association, and Ingus Rutins
share in 2014. At the same time, I have also
been quite frequently asked how it is possible that
there are so many top-end cars on the streets.
Firstly, in Latvia the customers who can afford
premium cars do buy large, luxury-class cars and
of course premium SUV’s are highly demanded
instead of compact and mid-size hatchbacks. The
density of premium segment cars in Riga and
especially its city centre is much higher than in
any other region and this makes a kind of visual
illusion. What is absolutely true: our mini, small
and lover medium (compact) segment share, all
combined, is more than two times smaller than
the EU average while the SUV segment (small,
medium, large) is more than two times bigger
than the EU average. There are several reasons
market. As you see, we are quite conservative
Some predictions for market trends and
for this: 1. the car is still an object of status, and
in accepting alternative fuels. However, last year
development in 2015...
a 10-year-old premium car is a better deal than
we experienced a new trend for pure electric
Regardless of quite sufficient growth during
a brand new small segment vehicle; 2. we are
vehicles. It might be too early to call it a trend
the last year we are making a conservative prog-
still a one-car-per-family market meaning higher
but at least 176 pure electric vehicles were sold
nosis for 2015. We are predicting moderate but
mileage and more versatile use of the car; 3. we
with a 1.4% market share, which is more than
fragile growth of 4.5%. We are living now in a
would like to have better roads.
four-times higher than the EU average. These
completely different Europe than 7-10 years ago.
cars have been acquired with the support of the
The EU still has not recovered. On top of that,
Climate Change Financial Instrument (Maximum
there might be some extra draw backs due to
support is up to 75% of a car’s price). The top
the Russia-Ukraine conflict. Private consumption
selling model was VW e-up!
besides FMCG is rather weak in Latvia.
Which are the most popular brands?
Here are the top ten brands for 2013 and
2014 (table 2).
And the top 5 for used car first registrations
in 2014 (table 3).
We are predicting moderate but fragile
growth of 4.5%
What is happening in the luxury car market?
segment (we call it higher premium – S-class,
A8, Porsche Panamera)?
The premium segment had a 14% share of
experiencing moderate growth over the last
that our new car market is 7.5 new cars per cap-
three years. Even though we saw growth
ita, which is one of the smallest figures in the
rates of 17% last year, and 24% in 2012,
EU. Taking the European average of some 25-30
small profit. The overall competition has become
ing the post-crisis period from ~10% to 14%.
there was a slight drop in 2013 of 0.7%.
new cars per capita gives us an idea of Latvia’s
incredibly strong.
This is related to finance availability/unavail-
Thus, the three year average is slightly over
market capacity i.e. 55-60 thousand new cars per
13%. There were very high growth rates in the
year. But we are perhaps decades away from this
Many foreigners from richer Western
segment totals about 1% of the total market
post-crisis period of 2010 and 2011 but we
and the industry has to focus on today’s objec-
European countries are often surprised by
in 2014.
have to remember that the car market almost
tives: aftersales business, integrated customer
the fact that they see more mid-range and
collapsed in 2009 when at 4,173 units this
services, looking for corporate solutions, building
top-end cars here than at home.
was around the same level as 1997. Today,
customer loyalty etc. At the same time, the car
Why do you think Latvians often drive better
we are still 10 years behind the previous peak,
industry heavily overinvested during the pre-crisis
cars than say the British or the French?
meaning we are somewhere between 2004
market and now is still paying the price. It was
From a statistical point this is a myth.
Almost all Lexus models are sold in hybrid ver-
and 2005 and well behind the 2007 peak of
only in 2013 that authorized dealers stopped
Premium segment cars (typically dominated by
sions. The market share for hybrid cars is 1.4%.
36,000 cars. Last year, there were 14,993
losing money and began to make a very, very
Audi, BMW, MB, Volvo, and Lexus) represent
Petrol/LPG cars account for 1.5% of the total
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
Gads
VW
% no tirgus
Volvo
% no tirgus
Audi
% no tirgus
BMW
% no tirgus
Opel
% no tirgus
Pārējie
% no tirgus
Kopā
It depends on what we call luxury cars. All
Having close to two million inhabitants means
•
Table 3
premium cars (Volvo, Lexus, etc.) or the luxury
The Latvian car market has been
24
Table 1
the total market in 2014. This is slightly less than
the year before. BMW and Audi are dominating
this sector. The premium market has grown dur-
Table 2
ability for the middle classes. The pure luxury
How popular are hybrid/electric/gas cars?
There is only one brand making a considerable contribution to the hybrid market – Lexus.
9092
18%
7176
14%
6142
12%
5087
10%
4115
8%
18135
36%
49747
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Zīmolu
Volkswagen
Toyota
Skoda
Peugeot
Nissan
Renault
Opel
Ford
Citroen
Dacia
1-12 mēn.
1-12 mēn.
Perioda 2014/13
2014. daļa
2013. daļa izmaiņa p.p. pkt.
2 531 16.9%
2 080 16.2%
22%
0.6%
1 833 12.2%
1 519 11.9%
21%
0.4%
1 283 8.6%
835 6.5%
54%
2.0%
1 011 6.7%
900 7.0%
12% -0.3%
948 6.3%
667 5.2%
42%
1.1%
930 6.2%
646 5.0%
44%
1.2%
550 3.7%
491 3.8%
12% -0.2%
517 3.4%
659 5.1%
-22% -1.7%
484 3.2%
448 3.5%
8% -0.3%
482 3.2%
345 2.7%
40%
0.5%
winter/spring 2015
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25
Restaurant review
Rozengrals’ signature dish is smoked pork,
held in a salt water barrel for three days before
being smoked on a huge spit for eight hours, and
Photos courtesy of Rozengrals
accompanied by totally natural pearl barley and
MEDIEVAL
NIGHT OUT
A night out at Rozengrals is like dining in a
wonderfully atmospheric living museum
T
here are very few restaurants in Europe
cellar was built on the site of where diners can
that can genuinely trace their origins
now enjoy the medieval charms of Rozengrals
back to early medieval times. Riga was
restaurant.
founded in 1201 with the Dome Cathedral we
Today, Rozengrals is one of only two
know so well today, dominating the skyline of
medieval restaurants in the Baltic and Nordic
the then new settlement. Nearby, a wine cel-
region that can genuinely trace its roots back
lar was later built connecting the lively central
over 700 years. With some of its internal brick
market to the busy port. It was here in 1293
walls part of the original defensive walls of the
that original manuscripts show the city’s wine
city, and Riga's first and only remaining under-
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winter/spring 2015
Today,
Rozengrals is
one of only
two medieval
restaurants in
the Baltic and
Nordic region
that can genuinely trace its
roots back over
700 years
lentils. Nowhere else in Europe can diners enjoy
this dish made in this totally authentic way.
Rozengrals is located on Riga’s most narrow
ground water well to be found in the main din-
old town street: Rozena iela. The name of the
ing hall, it is hard to imagine a more authentic
restaurant, in fact, comes from Rozena Street
medieval atmosphere than that experienced
(which was owned by Baron Rozen in the 13th
at Rozengrals. Furthermore, the entire imagi-
century). Visitors must descend five metres to
natively created menu has been thought out
the original level of Riga, where 200 church
based only on ingredients that were used in
candles and soothing medieval music combine
the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. Diners
to create a wonderful ambience quite unlike any
can enjoy starters that include ‘soup of chopped
other experienced in the Baltic states.
rye seeds with pearled barley and free range
Rozengrals has seven atmospheric rooms
piglet meat’; tuck into mouth-watering main
and chambers in total and can accommodate
courses such as spit-fried meat, lamb shank,
up to 200 diners at any one time. Family crests
catfish fillet, or rabbit stew with prunes and
on the walls are those of rich families from
cedar nuts; as well as scrumptious desserts
medieval times and many of the features on
that include an extremely tasty pumpkin pie.
the walls, such as a number of large swords,
Beverages that sport historical roots back to
are original or have been painstakingly recreated
the thirteenth century include honey beer and
using original drawings and manuscripts. The
home-made vodka. Diners can even enjoy medi-
'Knights' Room' features a single huge wooden
eval vegetarian options including the extremely
table which would have been the modern day
tasty bread pie with cheese and tomato, which
equivalent of a VIPs room in bygone days.
is an interesting and yummy take on home-made
Passing a mock dungeon, visitors to
lasagne, and can be washed down with a glass
Rozengrals can reach two new warm and
of refreshing natural rye bread kvass.
atmospheric rooms that were completed last
Christmas after nearly two years of careful excavation work. Another section of the original city
walls was unearthed during the part excavation,
part archaeological dig.
Rozengrals feels like so much more than a restaurant. With a nightly medieval band, candlelit
chandeliers, and honey beer from its own microbrewery this wonderfully authentic eatery feels
like a place far removed from the time and place
we inhabit in our rather more mundane day-today lives.
Visitors must
descend five
metres to the
original level
of Riga, where
200 church
candles and
soothing medieval music combine to create
a wonderful
atmosphere
i
Rozengrals is located in old Riga, on the
corner of Rozena iela and picture-perfect
Kramu iela. Open the large wooden door
and descend the candlelit stairs to the
main hall, with its four-metre high
arches.
The restaurant is open seven days
per week 12:00 – Midnight, with live
medieval music each evening between
8-10pm.
Reservations can be made
by calling +371 67220356
or by email: [email protected]
Read more about one of the best restaurant experiences in the Baltic and Nordic
region: www.rozengrals.lv/en/
winter/spring 2015
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27
Famous Travel Destinations
Photos courtesy of Enterprise Estonia, and Tallinn TV tower
WHAT WONDERFUL
NEIGHBOURS!
Best Ra
tes
available
at
www.bes
tw
estern.co
m
Hotels with personality
Photos courtesy of Picasa
Photos courtesy of Jaak Nilson
Best Western offers a hotel to meet your needs, whether you travel for business or pleasure.
In the first part of our
new feature we take
a look at the countries and people who
neighbour Latvia. We
begin with one of Europe’s most upcoming
nations: Estonia
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E
stonia is a country that always seems to
end in Estonia, what are the highlights of this
be in the news these days. Recently, in
beautiful northern European country? Gateway
the first ever State of World Liberty Index
Riga guides you through a few of the countless
report, it was ranked first out of 159 countries,
and it also finished eleventh in the World Press
delights on offer in Estonia…
Freedom Index and first in the entire world for
TALLINN
Internet freedom.
Undoubtedly one of Europe's most photogenic
If you live in Latvia or are visiting the Baltics
capital cities, Tallinn mixes the old with the
for a few days, and wish to spend a long week-
new to create a unique urban ambience. The
winter/spring 2015
The World’s Biggest Hotel Family® has more than 4,000 hotels worldwide, each independently owned and operated, with their own, unique atmosphere. However, they all share the
same international service and quality standards.
From our hotels, you can choose the best match for your needs. BEST WESTERN for
warm, clean and comfortable stay, BEST WESTERN PLUS with that little something
extra or BEST WESTERN PREMIER for a refined level of comfort.
In the Baltic countries, there are three hotels to choose from: BEST WESTERN Hotel Mara,
BEST WESTERN Hotel Vilnius and BEST WESTERN Santakos Hotel.
Read more and book your hotel at www.bestwestern.com
highlight for most visitors is Tallinn’s
immaculate medieval old town, parts
century. The compact old town is full
of cosy hotels, imaginative cafes,
romantic restaurants and has dozens
of historic churches and Hanseatic
buildings. Outside of the old town,
creative-minded Kalamaja is a former
industrial area of the city that is now
home to cool and happening wine bars
and quirky galleries. Slightly further
afield, Kadriorg is popular for its lovely
park, grand palace and interesting art
museums.
The 360-degree view from Tallinn
TV Tower is unique to Estonia as well
as all of Northern Europe. The Tallinn
TV Tower sends visitors soaring to
cloud level, where a spellbinding view,
interactive exhibition and the possibility of sending a TV greeting to a friend
add up to a spectacular experience. It
is now possible to rappel 175 metres
It is now possible to rappel
175 metres
from the roof
at to walk
on the edge
of Europe’s
highest open
observation
platform
Photos courtesy of Toomas Tuul
of which date back as far as the 11th
Parnu was
a Russian
imperial
resort as
long ago
as the
nineteenth
century
PARNU
from the roof and to walk on the edge
Estonia's beach capital is a wonderful place to
of Europe’s highest open observation
hang out in during the summer months with the
platform.
sun setting near midnight and its white-sand
beaches hosting festivals, pop concerts, beach
volleyball tournaments and, of course, endless
beach holiday weekends.
Out of season Parnu is well worth a visit
for its excellent water park and gorgeous
town centre, which is full of protected build-
ings, cosy cafes and top class hotels. Parnu
was a Russian imperial resort as long ago as
the nineteenth century, although the city itself
dates way back to the Hanseatic days of the
thirteenth century.
TARTU
For many Estonians, the nation's second city is
now Estonia's unofficial cultural capital. Home
to one of the oldest universities in Europe, Tartu
has inexplicably remained off many tourist itin-
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winter/spring 2015
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31
Photos courtesy of Jarek Joepera
NARVA
Pride of place is Tartu's picturesque town square
with narrow cobbled streets connecting off this
at every angle. Prices in Tartu are sometimes a
Photos courtesy of Jarek Joepera
eraries but now the secret is well and truly out.
Muhu is loved for its sleepy fishing villages,
road and was formed by a meteor explosion
rants. Fascinating castles, churches and narrow
Often overlooked by foreign visitors and a
abundant wildlife, pagan heritage and working
(check out also Kaali below). As well as being
cobbled streets add to the experience.
little off the beaten track, Narva's spectacular
windmills. The most visited of its islands is
difficult to spell, Hiiumaa is also well known for
Hermann fortress located on the Russian border
Saaremaa, which also happens to be the big-
its wild nature and picture postcard lighthouses.
is an unforgettable sight. Located on the banks
gest island. The capital Kuressare is home to one
of the Narva River, Hermann fortress actually
of the finest medieval castles in north eastern
HAAPSALU
spans both sides of the river and is the best pre-
Europe, while the town itself offers top class
A less party vibe than Parnu makes this attrac-
served castle fortress in the Baltic states. Before
hotels, restaurants and art galleries. Hiiumaa
tive seaside resort a great place to partake of a
World War II, Narva was considered to be one of
Island can sometimes be reached via an ice
relaxing spa, beach strolls and candlelit restau-
the most outstanding towns in the Baltic region
Estonia has
more than
1,500 islands
VIJANDI
Only now entering the collective tourism consciousness, Vijandi is certainly worth a visit
if you are travelling from Latvia. This former
Hanseatic League town boasts castle ruins,
beautiful lakeside and hilly terrain, winding
and today its rich history and Russian heritage
make for a fascinating visit.
ESTONIA'S ISLANDS
Here is a surprising fact for you: Estonia has
more than 1,500 islands. The most popular are
where the pace of life gives the word 'slow' a
cafes, bars and restaurants to keep tourists,
new meaning. If you think mainland Estonians
locals and international students entertained.
have gone too far in embracing modern technol-
Tartu also boasts the spectacular Toome Hill area
ogy (Estonia was the first country in the world to
and castle ruins, while night hawks will love its
offer ‘E-residency’, online voting and is consid-
exciting selection of bars and night clubs. Think
ered to be the most wired country in the world
Bohemian, and imagine the kind of place where
by many), then the nation's islands will be a
backpackers arrive and never want to leave.
breath of fresh air, in every sense of the word,
as traditional Estonian life continues here much
as it has done for centuries.
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Photos courtesy of Arne Ader
fraction of Tallinn and there are plenty of quirky
Photos courtesy of Remo Savisaar
Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Kihnu, Ruhnu and Vormsi,
winter/spring 2015
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GATEWAY RIGA
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33
Photos courtesy of Toomas Tuul
available of the only Russian Orthodox nunnery
in Estonia.
KUREMAE CONVENT
A cheap and fascinating day trip is the Kuremae
KAALI METEORITE CRATERS
Covent, which dates back to the 1890s. The
The majority of 'shooting stars' we see in the
curative waters here have held a place in
night sky never make it as far as the surface of
Estonian folklore since ancient times and visi-
planet earth. But we know that some do, occa-
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winter/spring 2015
strange sensation of walking on the sea. Of
meteorite crater, which is more than 100 metres
course if you are new to Estonia you shouldn't
wide and 20 metres deep. The crater is around
venture out on the sea ice unless you ask the
7500 years old and entrance is free to visitors.
locals whether it is definitely safe to do so.
WALK ON THE SEA
RAKVERE
Have you ever walked on the sea? Thought so.
Rakvere is popular for its amazing castle,
Well, here is your chance! During the deep mid-
located close to the pristine Lahemaa National
winter the shallow Gulfs of Riga and Finland
Park, as well as its massive Tarvas the Bull
often freeze over, making it safe to venture
statue.
winter/spring 2015
Photos courtesy of Jaak Nilson
tors can enter the convent for free. Tours are
Baltic atmosphere.
out on the sea ice and to experience the very
can visit the site of the world’s eighth largest
Photos courtesy of Toomas Tuul
Photos courtesy of Jaak Nilson
cobbled streets and, in general, a very special
In Kaali, tourists can visit
the site of the
world’s eighth
largest meteorite crater
sionally with devastating effect. In Kaali, tourists
•
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37
H-UV
TRY WALKING
IN MY SHOES
What is it like to be
a Latvian living in the
United Kingdom, or a
British person living in
Latvia?
I
n this issue of Gateway Riga we begin a
just moved away after several years, and ask
new feature called 'philosophical viewpoint'.
them to describe their very different experiences
In each issue we take a topic and discuss it
living and working in the other person's cultural
from two different perspectives. In future issues
we will discuss what it is 'to be Latvian', 'what
is money?' and 'capitalism or socialism?'
In our first philosophical viewpoint we take
homeland.
LINDA FROM LATVIA. LIVES
IN WALES.
two Latvians living in the UK, and one British
Living in the UK – the people do tend to be
person living in Latvia, and another who has
more forthcoming and chatty. Whether this
Photos and images courtesy of Wikimedia Commons and Austin Nicholas
Philosophy
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MicroDot LTD
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phone: +371 67370052; +371 29 44 55 03
www.microdot.lv
38
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winter/spring 2015
'DAVE' FROM ENGLAND.
LIVES IN RIGA.
usually what you get, which is reassuring. I
would say though, being critical, that integrat-
JANIS FROM LATVIA. LIVES
IN ENGLAND
Latvia and Latvians have changed a great
ing fully into Latvian society is almost impos-
I came to England more out of necessity
deal over the years. When I first lived in Latvia,
sible. I think I will always be an outsider and
than choice. I made the mistake of borrowing
the country still had a Soviet vibe. This was
it is still a little strange to me that sometimes
too much from the bank and when things went
something that had both its good and bad
when a Latvian friend gets married, I won't
wrong in Latvia, I was left with massive debts.
points. I remember in the early days that
be invited.
So, I got on a flight to Liverpool, got in touch
Latvians were generally very unreliable when
I really respect the Latvians for trying to
with the friend of a friend who had moved to
it came to making plans and arrangements. I
hold on to their culture and traditions. And the
England a couple of years earlier, slept on his
would agree a business meeting or personal
seasons are a wonderful thing here. Winter
sofa for a couple of weeks and began looking
rendezvous and the person or persons I had
and spring feel like winter and spring, but back
for a job.
agreed to meet might phone me 20 minutes
home sometimes it is hard to tell the difference
after our scheduled meeting time to say they
between March and July.
I’d never been to England before and the
north of the country was quite different to what
would be late or wouldn't be coming at all. After
A big plus in Latvia is also the clean and
I had expected. In fact, a lot of things were
a while it became slightly comical. Nowadays,
green nature. Big respect has to go to the locals
different to how I had imagined they would be.
this kind of behaviour is unusual rather than
because you never see litter on the streets or
Life in England can be much tougher than
being the norm as it once was.
in the forests. They respect nature in ways
many foreigners expect it to be. Some things
Food used to be much better. Vegetables
can be really cheap like supermarkets, but rent
were generally much more natural than you
and bills end up costing you so much that you
would get back home in the UK. In those days
don’t have much left at the end of the month;
there weren't supermarkets in Latvia, so you
particularly if you are trying to save to pay off
didn't buy crap and vegetables tasted like they
debts. It took me quite a while to get on my
had just come from someone's back garden.
Sadly, tomatoes now start to taste like water,
and chicken has started to taste like it isn't
chicken; just like in England. Although of course
so many Latvians get their fruit and veg from
the lauki during the summer, so for five months
a year the food is still brilliant.
One of the best things about living in Latvia
many years ago was that Latvians always wanted to have a good time. They always lived for
the day or the moment. In England, there is a
tendency to make arrangements a week or two
in advance but here people decide they fancy
And certainly
the Latvian
desire to enjoy
the moment has
always rubbed
off on me
doing something on the spur of the moment. For
feet and I found I wasted a lot of money on
going out. There is a real drinking culture in
England and I started spending most of the
spare cash I had on Friday nights out. Those
nights out are very different from Latvia. The
start of a weekend is full of energy and everyone is happy. It is great. But by the end of the
night the atmosphere is totally different. It can
get quite intense.
People here are very friendly and if you work
hard there are good opportunities. I think if you
make an effort to integrate most British people
are quite welcoming. But in a way, you are still
an outsider.
an English person this took some getting used to
that most nationalities don't. I am embarrassed
I like the food here. There is so much choice.
but on the whole I much prefer this Latvian way
sometimes when I go home by people's disre-
People told me before I came that England
of doing things. And certainly the Latvian desire
spect for nature. Actually that extends to many
wasn’t good for food but you can find anything
is due to the fact that we are living in a small
Henry, our son, is enjoying the nursery here; I
to enjoy the moment has always rubbed off on
British people's disrespect for themselves.
you like here.
town in Wales, and not a big city in England,
have been impressed by the range of activities
me. Unfortunately, modern life is starting to get
Obesity and bad diet are much bigger problems
who knows. I am having to take some time
and toys. The main difference being the system
in the way and as Latvians become more inter-
in the UK than here in Latvia.
to adjust to the cultural customs and social
of everyone coming at once to pick up their
etiquette.
children whereas, in Latvia, it was a lot more
There is certainly a lot more choice in
relaxed in timings. It is also more challenging to
supermarkets for processed and ready-made
understand how the little man is getting along as
foods. And yet, the fresh and organic range is
access to the school is very limited. It is a great
limited. This potentially is reflected in the 'size'
experience living here, but it certainly makes us
of people. Buying online is certainly a lot more
miss our friends and family in Latvia as well as
established here also. Charity shops are also
the lifestyle. We are looking forward to returning
a huge benefit, gaining some great bargains
in the summer and hopefully enjoying the best
for a good cause and helping to reduce waste.
of both worlds.
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winter/spring 2015
The people
do tend to be
more forthcoming and
chatty
ested in bettering themselves in their careers,
The biggest thing I dislike about Latvians?
their desire to drop everything and do stuff has
The majority don't say thank you if you hold open
been a little dented. It used to be possible to find
a door for them. But there are plenty of countries
a party in Riga seven nights per week; now you
where I experience the same frustration.
will be lucky if you find a good night stretching
past Thursday to Saturday.
AUSTIN FROM WALES.
CURRENTLY LIVES BACK IN
WALES AFTER LIVING IN
LATVIA FOR 10 YEARS.
I am having a passionate love affair with
A big plus is that Latvians are considerably
Latvia that began in 2003, during a reconnais-
less aggressive on the whole than English peo-
sance mission to Riga for a football tour. Pre-
Latvians do seem a little cold but, as is
ple. Sometimes at home you can get punched
Ryanair and pre-EU membership the country
sometimes the case with Scandinavians, this
just for looking at someone the wrong way,
was on the verge of great changes. An intoxicat-
is usually down to getting to know someone.
whilst here I feel a lot safer in general and find
ing energy seemed to flow through Riga and its
Once you know a Latvian, what you see, is
people far less confrontational.
inhabitants. It is hard to explain, but it was very
winter/spring 2015
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41
GRAND MILANO
STUDIO
YOUR NAVIGATOR IN THE SEA OF
REAL ESTATE
Villas with parks, penthouses with swimming
pools, chic apartments, commercial property
in Italy, France, Switzerland and Monaco,
as well as
exciting and soon enough I too had fallen victim
have ever imagined. And all these years later I
to its seduction ….
have a great mix of friends from Latvia and all
Life in the UK seemed rather dull and pre-
over the world.
dictable after flirting with the highly contagious
I feel quite privileged because I founded a
“Baltic Bug”. In my eyes, Latvia held seemingly
football team called Riga United back in 2007.
endless opportunities, and with not much more
We were useless at that start but now our
than the clothes on my back, I fell headlong into
club has grown and grown and we play in the
the bosom of the Baltic.
national leagues and even have kids’ teams.
It was a lack of reliable information available
The football club really allowed many of us to
to visitors in Latvia at that time that gave me the
integrate into Latvian society and it also was
inspiration to form what is still the philosophy
great for a lot of locals who became friends
behind my company, Travel Out There, to this very
with all of us from all over the world.
Day; helping visitors to “access the un-accessi-
We are taking some time out of Latvia for
ble”, to ensure that they enjoy an experience that
our son to spend a bit more time with my side
they want to tell the whole world about!
of the family and to avoid the Latvian Winter.
The early friendships that I made in Riga
have proved to be of more value than I could
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We will be back to spend the summer in Latvia.
I am really looking forward to it.
winter/spring 2015
People told me
before I came
that England
wasn’t good
for food but
you can find
anything you
like here
Architectural design
Restoration works
Assistance in receiving mortgage loan
Interior design
Calculation of real estate taxes
Legal aid for receiving settlement
visa for Italy
GRAND MILANO STUDIO
CORSO DI PORTA ROMANA, 51 - 20122 MILAN,
ITALY P.IVA 07556890965 - F.I.M.A.A.
TEL.+39 3921298168; +7 (499) 96-89-777
[email protected]
Environment
Increasingly Latvia is becoming
renowned for being one of the
planet's greenest countries
F
For Your B eau tiful B eing!
Photos courtesy of the Latvian Tourism Development Agency
IS LATVIA THE GREENEST
COUNTRY ON EARTH?
L AT VIAN SPA
CHEER YOURSELF UP | PAMPERING YOUR BODY | MASSAGE AS A JOURNEY
A RADIANT FACE | FOR YOUR BEAUTIFUL HANDS AND FEET
EXQUISITE POOL AND SAUNAS | SANCTUARY FOR THE BODY AND SOUL
or the fourth year running Latvia has made
it onto the list of the 'The World's 10 Best
Ethical Destinations'. This year's top ten,
listed in no particular order, is as follows:
The selection was made based upon those

nations 'in the developing world' deemed to
be preserving their environment and creating
a 'lively, community-based tourism industry'.
A number of countries are waking up to the
realisation that high environmental standards
are not only beneficial for all who live within
their boundaries, but it is also favourable for the
World's 10 Best
Ethical Destinations
The Bahamas
Barbados
Cape Verde
Chile
Dominica
44
•
Latvia
Lithuania
Mauritius
Palau
Uruguay
GATEWAY RIGA
•
collective national wallet. Take Costa Rica as an
example. Nothing much more than a Central
American back water five decades ago, and as
recently as the 1980s one of the biggest sinners
in deforestation rates, Costa Rica’s astounding
natural beauty and efforts to protect what God
has endowed it have resulted in an explosion in
tourism and subsequently in the wealth of the
winter/spring 2015
For the fourth
year running
Latvia has
made it onto
the list of the
'The World's
10 Best Ethical
Destinations'
Family – owned and operated authentic Latvian SPA
Exclusive, locally-sourced SPA treatments, meant to vitalize your body
and inspire your soul
Revitalizing body wraps, soothing massages with aromatic oils
Invigorating Latvian sauna rituals with aromatic medicinal besom flapping
Fresh, natural “La Daile” cosmetics or high-quality Latvian brand cosmetics
are used in all SPA treatments
Latvian SPA La Daile | 47 Bruninieku Street, Riga (center), Latvia | T + 371 67314007, +371 26631114 | www.ladaile.lv
Moment of Rela x ation and Har mony !
nation and a big percentage of its people. Such
Nicaragua out of the mire of decades of war
is Costa Rica’s success story that up to half a
and foreign meddling.
million Nicaraguans now work in the country
As Ethical Traveller points out: 'Travel has
and send home remittances to their neighbour-
recently become the world’s largest industry,
ing homeland, which is in turn helping to drag
exceeding a trillion-dollar annual footprint.
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winter/spring 2015
In 2012, Latvia
was ranked the
second greenest country in
the world in a
132-country
Environmental
Performance
Index conducted by the
prestigious Yale
and Columbia
universities
This means that travellers have real power.
well and remembering our roles as citizen dip-
particular should be lauded for its status as one
Where we choose to put our footprints has
lomats — we create international goodwill and
of only ten countries in the world highlighted for
real economic and political significance. Ethical
help change the world for the better'.
being top performers in 22 indicators spanning
Traveller believes that mindful travel offers many
According to the rankings, Latvia and
ten policy categories reflecting areas of both
rewards, both personal and global. By “voting
Lithuania scored highest in environmental pro-
environmental public health and ecosystem
with our wings” — choosing our destinations
tection among the Ethical Destinations. ‘Latvia in
vitality’.
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47
48
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winter/spring 2015
In 2012, Latvia was ranked the second
a blanket in smog and, in recent years, open-pit
recognised as being the greenest country on
greenest country in the world in a 132-country
mining has returned to the nation, threatening
earth, the organisation's other chief goal is 'to
Environmental Performance Index conducted
to tarnish the country's Pura Vida reputation
create a social movement of members who
by the prestigious Yale and Columbia universi-
abroad. You won't find these problems in Latvia,
support green ideas and are open to improve
ties. In that report, Latvia was only beaten by
although Latvia's protected areas are no match
their daily habits in order to lead an environ-
Switzerland, and scored ahead of nearest green
for Costa Rica's in size (12.7%) or indeed gran-
mentally friendly lifestyle'.
rival Norway. The highest ranking non-European
deur and biodiversity.
Latvia still has a long way to go if it is to
The organisation Homo
Ecos wants
Latvia 'to be
the greenest
country in
the world'
country in the Yale and Columbia Index was once
The organisation Homo Ecos wants Latvia
be seriously considered the greenest nation on
again Costa Rica. But Latvia is well ahead of
'to be the greenest country in the world'. And
Earth. For starters it must continue to reverse
the game compared to Costa Rica in a number
who can blame them in the pursuit of a goal
the detrimental effects of decades of Soviet
of less quantifiable measures: in Latvia you are
the nation is already ahead of most of the
industrialization, which have poisoned some
extremely unlikely to find litter or general waste
global pack in achieving? Each year, Homo
parts of the country. Fear that polluted ground
by the road side and once in a blue moon will
Ecos focuses its efforts on new campaigns
water might infect some of the nation’s rivers
you find it in a forest or by a lake or beach. Sadly,
that can help achieve this lofty goal. In 2011, it
in years to come is a genuine concern.
in Costa Rica outside of the heavily protected
was CO2 emissions, the following year the deg-
But imagine what having the accolade
national parks - which make up a hugely impres-
radation of the Baltic Sea, in 2013 the reduction
of being the world’s greenest country could
sive 26% of its territory - disposing of rubbish in
of food waste, and last year awareness of the
do for Latvia’s national brand, perceptions
the forests and beaches is common every day
consequences of excessive food packaging.
abroad, not to mention the kinds of green-
practice. No country which wishes to call itself
Homo Ecos is an environmental organisation
minded businesses and people it would
a bastion of green living should tolerate such
that ‘unites people in Latvia and abroad who
attract here?
open degradation of its environment. Factory
care for balanced progress that suits both
In 2012, Latvia’s minister for the envi-
EU funds directed at such a plan. And this
emissions and vehicle pollution in Costa Rica's
human beings and the planet we live on’. As
ronment and regional development set out
year’s Latvian pavilion at Expo 2015 in Milan
capital San Jose often leave the city choking in
well as pushing for Latvia to become and be
plans to make Latvia the greenest nation
is called ‘Nature Inside’: ‘We are convinced
on earth with a ‘green vision’ paper seeking
winter/spring 2015
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49
that Latvia finds the Energy for Life in bal-
Latvia still is one of the fastest growing econ-
ance between the material and the immate-
omies in Europe’.
rial, nature and production,’ the organisers
Perhaps now is the time for all Latvians to unite
explain. ‘Latvia can enrich the world through
in the achievement of an attainable and incredible
this harmony. In 2012, Yale and Columbia uni-
goal. Neighbours Estonia are recognised as being
versities named Latvia as the second greenest
the most internet friendly nation on Earth. Maybe
country in the world on the Environmental
in years to come we really can declare: Latvia is
Performance Index (EPI). At the same time,
the greenest country on Earth.
50
•
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winter/spring 2015
In 2012,
Latvia’s minister for the
environment
and regional
development
set out plans
to make Latvia
the greenest nation on
earth with a
‘green vision’
paper
Photos courtesy of Jonathan Spa Resort, Taka Spa, ESPA Riga, Wellton Centrum Hotel&Spa, Latvian Tourism Development Agency, Dikli Palace, and La Daile
Health
KING FOR A DAY
Gateway Riga visits six of the top spa destinations in
Latvia
I
purification' as it might have been called in those
resort is situated in Amatciems, an exclusive
days before marketing executives.
new luxury development hidden away in a rural
With snow on the ground, daylight at a
premium and our workload causing stress
and sleepless nights, Gateway Riga decided
it was time to escape to six of the leading spa
destinations in Latvia for some much needed
pampering, relaxation and time out from the
daily grind...
JONATHAN SPA RESORT
After taking the short bus journey from Riga
t is as if one day many of us woke up and
pursuit. Nowadays, most of us wish to escape
and anti-ageing, alternative therapies, fitness
to Cesis we are met at Cesis bus station by a
thought: it is time I started taking better care
the stresses of everyday life, every once in a
and weight loss, to name but a few. Spa - as
smiling and super friendly member of staff from
of my physical and mental well-being. Why
while, and unwind for a day or indeed a weekend
we think of it today - dates back to the time of
Jonathan Spa Resort, who has come to pick
at a spa centre or resort.
the Greeks and Romans. England has spa towns
us up and transfer us to our luxury escape. He
and how exactly it happened it isn't clear but,
over the past decade or so, the spa and well-
The spa and wellness industry was esti-
that have been offering relaxing breaks and cura-
explains that he recently returned from England,
ness industry has changed from something
mated to be worth a mind boggling 3.4 trillion
tive therapies since Roman times. But further
where he lived for four years, to return to the
that was once the domain of the rich and con-
US dollars in 2013. The industry now includes
back in time, even the Native Americans and
area where he grew up and to begin working at
nected to become a very typical middle class
many sectors including healthy eating, beauty
Babylonians knew a thing or two about 'ritual
the exciting new top class Jonathan Spa. The
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winter/spring 2015
There is a
sense that we
have entered
the pampered
and privileged world
of property
tycoons and
millionairesses
Latvian forest where the number of lakes numbers sixty two.
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53
futuristic sci-fi film, while adjacent to these are
different vibe from say ESPA or Jonathan Spa,
two male- and female-only relaxation rooms
and yet you leave this tranquil corner of Riga
where guests can forget all their troubles in
absolute privacy.
Everything about ESPA Riga seems to have
been thought through down to the finest detail.
Inspired by the concepts of 'fire and water', the
wonderful design of this six-floor luxury wonderland immediately places it head and shoulders above the majority of spa establishments
around the globe. Just by entering the building
you instantly seem to relax and when it is time
to leave the thermal suites, male and female
relaxation rooms, ice fountain, lifestyle showers
and that amazing roof-top pool behind, you can
experience one of ESPA Riga's award-winning
treatments. Arita is my masseur as she covers
me in soothing and therapeutic body oil that
predictably helps to rapidly quieten the mind and
release the negative energies from my shoulUpon arrival we enjoy a pot of herbal tea
a wonderful organically-grown evening meal
affordable than many mid-range restaurants
ders, back, arms and legs. You don't get to be
before being escorted to our gorgeous room
that, despite being in the luxury bracket in
in Riga.
called 'award winning' just by having a world
which has a to-die-for-view of the part-frozen
terms of taste and service, is actually more
I assume my
masseur has
trained in the
Far East as her
skills and very
manner put one
in mind of those
masters of the
art in Japan,
Indonesia and
Malaysia
feeling every bit as pampered, relaxed and, dare
we say it without sounding too pretentious...
reborn.
What Taka Spa does particularly well is 'intimate'. Ideal for couples, this experience begins
with a chill out in the pool, sauna, steam room
and relaxation area, before the Taka Spa hostess
presents us with an invigorating body scrape
which should be spread all over our bodies in the
steam room, before being thoroughly washed
off ahead of our massages.
I assume my masseur has trained in the
Far East as her skills and very manner put one
in mind of those masters of the art in Japan,
Indonesia and Malaysia. She tells me she learnt
her trade in Latvia but already I am barely able
to continue the conversation as I find I am so
relaxed I would prefer not to speak. My priority
for this visit is to experience a head and face
massage and it's as if I didn't know my head
Back in the cosy room, we slip into our
class spa building; the staff are every bit as
lake and snow-covered forests below. Instantly
complimentary pyjamas and slippers, watch
important in achieving and maintaining the very
the stress begins to lift from our shoulders and
smoke rising from the chimneys of the hobbit
highest standards. This full body massage is the
there is a sense that we have entered the pam-
village and rest our heads on the luxury pillows
kind of experience that makes one feel human
by who probably mistakes my inane smile for
clarity might enter your mind'. I couldn't put it
pered and privileged world of property tycoons
and mattress. The only thing troubling us as
again and reminds me of how I would feel if I
something it isn’t.
better myself. It is as if a great burden has been
and millionairesses.
we drift off to sleep is the realisation that we
lived in a stress-free world. I must confess to
www.espariga.lv/en/
lifted from my shoulders, and my mind has been
must depart this wonderful retreat the follow-
even falling asleep at one point from the sheer
ing afternoon.
majesty of it all.
There is a peaceful tranquillity to this place
that is difficult perhaps to quantify in words.
Smoke rises from thatched cottages that
are a cross between the Saxon villages of
Transylvania and Dorset, and Tolkien’s Lord of
the Rings hobbit houses.
Downstairs, a sizeable heated pool is surrounded on three sides by big unobstructed
windows which afford five star views of the
lake and omnipresent forest. Around a secluded
corner, guests in luxury dressing gowns ponder
whether to partake of the Turkish steam room or
perhaps the fragrant smelling sauna.
We are delighted to discover that all of
the other Jonathan Spa guests seem to have
missed the outdoor Jacuzzi at the rear of the
resort , where snowflakes flutter down as we
lie back in the bubbling hot water and breathe
in large relaxing lungful’s of sub-zero country air.
Jonathan spa offers a whole host of treatments
including Ayurvedic and Thai massages.
After a day of bubbling Jacuzzis, relaxing massages, pedestrian-paced backstroke,
and admiring fairy-tale landscapes, we enjoy
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You know that
when a spa
has featured
in Conde Nast
Traveller's 'Top
five spas in
the world' list
with a rating
of 95.98/100,
you are visiting somewhere
pretty special
winter/spring 2015
www.jonathanspahotel.com/en/
ESPA RIGA
could feel this free of the weight of the world
since I was a child. In their marketing material Taka Spa say they work 'so that peace and
freed up by the experience. 'Sickness comes
TAKA SPA
about if balance is disturbed in the flow of life
I leave ESPA Riga and step out from its beau-
One of the things we are quickly learning about
energy'. I agree with them on that. Too often,
tiful Art Nouveau building on to the city centre
the world of spa relaxation is that you can be
our modern lives our so damned stressful that
streets still smiling to myself after my wonder-
made to feel brilliant and special in many differ-
our life energy is indeed disturbed and we do
You know that when a spa has featured in Conde
fully relaxing three hours; my first response a
ent kinds of ways. Take Taka Spa as an example:
begin to feel sick and 'stressed'. My visit to the
Nast Traveller's 'Top five spas in the world' list
frown and a weird look from the first passer-
this wonderful little spa centre has a completely
steam rooms and relaxation cabins of Taka Spa,
with a rating of 95.98/100, you are visiting
somewhere pretty special. Because Conde Nast
are the kind of people who travel the globe and
get to experience the very finest resorts and
destinations on planet Earth. Not that we can't
make our own mind up about what constitutes
luxurious spa. After all, that is why Gateway
Riga is here lounging in ESPA Riga's exalted
outdoor heated swimming pool on the roof of
the spa suite. It doesn't get much better than
this, as they say: steam rising from the vitality
pool as the warm water hits the cold winter air;
snowflakes gently falling and settling for just
a moment on our noses and eyebrows as we
paddle and splash about in the water.
Inside there are half a dozen steam rooms
and saunas which look like something out of a
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55
Wellton Spa is
conveniently
located in the
heart of Riga's
old town and
offers affordable
day spa luxury
and the magic of one pair of very special hands,
here. And, at 20 euro for non-guests, and with free
Daile treatment includes an hour of relaxation
has left me feeling like a new man.
entry for kids under-7, this brand new old town
in the pool and saunas free of charge. After our
www.takaspa.lv/en
hotel offers an affordable and conveniently-located
treatment, we were treated to a pot of fantas-
spa experience for all.
tic, delicately aromatic Latvian herbal tea and
www.wellton.com/centrumhotel/en/
healthy snacks in the relaxation room.
Spa-and-Beauty-Center/
www.ladaile.lv
above might be out of the price range of some of
LA DAILE
DIKLI PALACE HOTEL
our readers and/or in the case of Jonathan Spa,
If you would like to experience an authentic
Last and certainly not least, we paid a memorable
perhaps a little too far away if, perhaps, you are
Latvian spa experience, then La Daile offers
visit to the Dikli Palace Hotel, a grand and sophis-
only visiting Riga for a night or two. Wellton Spa is
exclusive, locally-based spa treatments with
ticated four-star hotel in the Latvian countryside.
conveniently located in the heart of Riga's old town
organic Latvian cosmetics and Latvian sauna
This wonderful manor house is the perfect place
and offers affordable day spa luxury as well as an
rituals that specialise in medicinal cleansing.
to escape from it all and enjoy a weekend of
extensive choice of spa treatments. Gateway Riga
The spa is family-owned and operated. And
relaxation and pampering. The hotel’s cosy nature
opted for a 2.5 hour stint in the hotel's 'recreation
there are some excellent treatments available
spa offers an excellent range of spa treatments,
zone', where there was ample time to enjoy the
including bio-organic peloid wraps, rejuvenating
in a classy setting. Lie back in an old-school arm
delights of its Turkish and Finnish saunas, eight
body treatments with berries, juniper thousand-
chair, after an hour or two of relaxing spa treat-
metre long swimming pool and - pride of place -
point massages, chestnut and rowan exfoliating
ments, and enjoy a pot of herbal tea by the real
its bubbling Jacuzzi bath. There are plenty of sun
masks, hot sea sand bags, and other procedures
fire place. Afterwards, dinner awaits in one of
loungers around the pool if you wish to lie back,
that will leave you feeling as relaxed as you
Vidzeme’s finest restaurants.
relax and read a magazine during your relaxing stay
have felt in a very long while. Almost every La
www.diklupils.lv/
WELLTON CENTRUM
HOTEL&SPA
The three wonderful establishments reviewed
56
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
A
nything can be collected.
Elephants on mantelpiece
or Facebook friends. Egons
Mednis, the host of Dikli
Palace Hotel (Dikļu pils), collects sensations.
He collects them in colors of paintings from
different centuries, furniture and antique
fireplaces. He collects sensations by discovering
new tastes in different parts of the world. Or in
high-adrenaline hunting stories and impressive
hunting trophies that prove their truthfulness.
Thus gathering piece by piece Egons Mednis
has made collections that have found their
home in Dikli Palace.
When your soul and mind is tired of city bustle
and fuss, the best place to restore your energy is
in a nature park of a rural manor. In the authentic interior of the manor, as you step across the
softly creaking floor, you’ll hear the echoing
footsteps of the affable lord of the manor. You
are welcome to spend magnificent time in a four
star hotel, hidden in a noble silence of antique
furniture, beautiful fireplaces, luxurious drapes
and satin sheets, that will make your stay an
unforgettable experience. Sophisticated gourmet
cuisine and relaxing SPA treatments let guests
discover new, extraordinary sensations. Splendid
but also cosy halls and saloons are the right place
for special celebration accompanied by delicious
and exquisite meals, impeccable service and
intimate atmosphere. “Striving for excellence in
everything we do is what makes Dikļi Palace
Hotel an exceptional place to enjoy,” says Dikli
Palace Hotel director Agneta Kīta.
This is a perfect place for people who appreciate
high quality service, history, peace, untouched
nature, elegant atmosphere and exceptional
food. The chef of Dikli Palace restaurant invites
the gourmets to taste contemporary interpretation of the rural bounty from Vidzeme regionpumpkins and apples ripe plump in the near
vicinity, rabbit from a nearby farm in Valmier-
“Striving for excellence in everything
we do is what makes Dikļi Palace
Hotel an exceptional place to enjoy,”
muiža, fish from Lake Burtnieks or from the
manor pond. "Good food cannot be described
in few words," remarks Dikli Palace restaurant
chef Jānis Siliņš. "Our gourmet menu offers
unique emotions and memories”.
healing herbs collected in the local meadows
and forests, calming and invigorating tea, soft
towels and the skillful hands of spa professionals are always welcoming guests in the Dikli
Palace’s cozy nature SPA environment.
“We value treasures of nature, and practice
sustainable management at our hotel,” says
Dikli Palace Hotel director. “Our hotel is one
of nine hotels in Latvia, and the only hotel in
Vidzeme region, which has received the Green
Key certificate - an international eco-label for
leisure and tourism establishments”.
Hidden in noble silence Dikli Palace is an
exceptional place to visit. Here, the breath of
history and primordial force of nature are
intertwined with exquisite cuisine and a
treasure trove of recreational pursuits. Visit,
experience and depart homeward bound with
your own unique tale!
Natural and organic products are used not only
for restaurant, but also for treatment procedures
in Dikli Palace Eco SPA. The scent of the
Address: Dikli, Dikli Parish, Koceni Municipality, Latvia
Phone: +371 64207480, Web: www.diklipalacehotel.com
Photos courtesy of airBaltic, Swissair
Airline News
AIRBALTIC RECOGNISED
AS WORLD LEADER
Latvian airline most punctual in the world
a
airBaltic was the first airline in Europe to
prestigious title of being 'the world's
introduce an on-time arrival guarantee in
most punctual airline'. According to
early 2009.
of rating of 94.9% for flights linking Riga with
ESTONIAN EXPANSION
destinations in Europe, the Middle East and
airBaltic is expanding its operations out of
Russia/CIS, in a study of millions of flights
Tallinn. As of May there will be four direct
all around the world. It means that more than
flights per week from the Estonian capital,
nine airBaltic aircraft out of ten arrive on-
Tallinn, to Berlin and four flights per week to
time. airBaltic is followed in the global rank-
one of the finest cities in the world - Vienna.
ing by Hawaiian Airlines, Austrian Airlines,
Before news of these new direct flights in
Iberia and Norwegian Air Shuttle. Talk about
January, airBaltic was already operating direct
putting your money where your mouth is:
flights from Tallinn to Paris.
•
June are an opportunity for airBaltic customers to visit enigmatic Rhodes Town and the
issue was published in October. First up was
gorgeous Rhodes coastal town of Lindos. Pisa
Poprad in Slovakia, ideal for exploring the
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
airBaltic passengers will
also be able
to fly directly
to the sunniest island in
Greece
Rhodes. The once-weekly flights beginning in
a number of new exciting routes since our last
resorts, which very often offer better value-forirBaltic has picked up the extremely
to visit the sunniest island in Greece, namely
Closer to home in Riga, air Baltic has announced
local mountains and increasingly popular ski
OAG, airBaltic achieved a punctuality rating
58
SUN, SEA, MOUNTAINS
AND BUSINESS
money than many of the ski towns of Western
Europe. Thanks to airBaltic, Riga now also has
five-flights-per-week to Moscow Vnukovo, complementing the already excellent connections
between the Russian Federation and Latvia.
As well as airBaltic, passengers can also fly to
Russia with direct services offered by Aeroflot
and Transaero.
Looking forward, direct flights to Denmark’s
happening Aalborg begin on April 18, while on
May 26, RIX passengers will be able to fly to one
of the most beautiful cities and leading tourist
destinations in the Adriatic: Dubrovnik. Further
east, air Baltic passengers will also be able
Swissair has
announced
that it will
begin operating flights
on the route
Zurich –
Riga – Zurich
and Thesaloniki complete the set of new flight
destinations in the coming months.
SWISS ON A ROLL
In other airline news, Swissair has announced
that it will begin operating flights on the route
Zurich – Riga – Zurich. The flights are expected
to connect the Latvian capital with Zurich three
times per week. Readers can learn about this
exciting new destination in our destination guide
on page 60.
Swissair is the national flag carrier of
Switzerland and has been in operation since
1931. Today it serves 157 destinations all over
the world and Skytrax ranked it as the 13th best
airline in the world in 2014, putting it ahead of
hundreds of other airlines.
winter/spring 2015
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
59
Clearly, a city ranked as being the second best in
the entire world for ‘quality of living’ has much to
offer both short term visitors as well as long term
residents.
O
nly Vienna scored higher than Zurich in
and visiting Zurich almost always means high
the annual Mercer report that measures
standards.
cities on a points-scoring index, looking
Home to one of the biggest stock markets in
at 39 different factors in 10 categories, which
the world, the city sometimes has to work hard
include standards of schools, waste disposal,
to shake off its unwarranted reputation as being
safety, and political stability. Zurich is also often
a boring banker city. An example of how wrong
regarded as the wealthiest city in Europe, so it is
people can be is that, for example, Zurich hosts
fair to say that living; working, eating, drinking
the world’s biggest street party, ‘Street Parade’.
60
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
Zurich hosts
the world’s
biggest street
party, ‘Street
Parade’
tesy
Photos cour
tschi
Rü
tin
ar
M
of
Photos courtesy of Christian Beutler
Photos courtesy of Christian Beutler
Described as a ‘demonstration of freedom, love
for is the guarantee of an eclectic mix of top
and tolerance’ (and often more than living up to
end restaurants as well as excellent overnight
that description), close to one million stupidly
accommodation. More affordable eateries are
happy party goers attend an event which has
offered up by Zurich’s significant Serb, Turkish
taken over from Berlin’s famous and infamous
Love Parade. The next street parade will begin
shaking its stuff and skipping to those BPMs
on August 29.
Zurich has transformed itself from bastion
of all things Swiss to thriving cosmopolitan city
over the past two decades with residents from
all over the world (30% and counting) now
helping to delete from the memory banks those
old perceptions of the city and – some might
say – Switzerland.
This is one of Europe’s oldest cities with
twin-towered Grossmunster cathedral,
Fraumunster, Predigerkirche and the gorgeous
13th century huge clock-faced St Peterskirche,
Photos courtesy
of
www.ElisabethR
ea
MISUNDERSTOOD
ZURICH
Photos courtesy of Zürich Tourismus Media, Martin Rütschi, www.ElisabethRea and Christian Beutler
Destination Guide
the city’s four principle churches and four of
the most popular tourist sights. And if it is the
Zurich has
transformed
itself from bastion of all things
Swiss to cosmopolitan city
over the past
two decades
and Italian communities.
For those who prefer to wear a hoodie and
trainers rather than a pin-striped suit, the vibe
is likely to be more to your taste in Zuri-West,
Langstrasse and perhaps old town Niederdorf.
And those readers interested in more traditional
culture can enjoy world-class opera, ballet, theatre and symphony orchestras. The Zurich Film
Festival puts the city on the world cinema map
each and every year, and top class international
athletics meetings as well as leading Zurichbased football and ice hockey teams also help
the city attract very different kinds of people to
the city throughout the seasons.
All in all, Zurich is cooler than you think, probably less expensive, definitely more beautiful, and
undeniably more cosmopolitan. And, if you visit
Europe of yesteryear that is more your bag, then
museums in the city will keep you entertained
during the Street Parade, all of the above, plus
a post-breakfast spent in Zurich’s medieval old
for hours on end; the Swiss National certainly
a lot more besides. As the tourism people say:
town is probably the perfect way to kick off your
one of the highlights.
‘Zurich: World Class. Swiss made.’
exploration of the city. City planners still refuse
Zurich, with its beautiful mountain backdrop,
to allow the high rise buildings that blight many
is a great hub for anybody wishing to partake
European city skylines to be built here, so you
of the world class ski runs close by, while one
can enjoy the Guild houses of Munsterhof with-
day-trip out of Zurich not to be missed is the
out glass and concrete monstrosities destroying
all-day alpine bus & train journey to 3,400 metre
the ambience.
Jungfraujoch, and Europe’s highest railway
Cool, must-see hang-outs include Art nou-
station.
veau café Odeon, which is a good spot to reflect
Back in the city, a swim in or walk along
upon what you have seen and been dazzled by
Lake Zurich is always good for the soul, the
at the brilliant Kunsthaus fine arts gallery, where
botanical, Chinese and zoological gardens all
the likes of Munch and Picasso are hung from
places for contemplative escape, while one
its hallowed walls. Another dozen high profile
thing we can thank all those boring bankers
winter/spring 2015
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
61
LNSO &Karlis Lacis
Skrillex DJ show
www.yanntiersen.bzh
www.lnso.lv
February 11 / Sapnu Fabrika
www.bilesuserviss.lv
Quadro Nuevo
February 12 / Riga Concert Hall
www.bilesuserviss.lv
Solstafir
February 12 / Club ‘Black Friday’
www.altevents.net
Timati
February 13 / First Dacha
www.bilesuserviss.lv
Galaktika
February 14 / Sapnu Fabrika
www.bliesuserviss.lv
Ed Sheeran
February 16 / Arena Riga
www.bilesuserviss.lv
Grigorijs Lepss
March 6 / Palladium
Robbie Williams
www.blesuserviss.lv
www.fbi.lv
Example
www.bilesuserviss.lv
www.trythisforexample.com
March 15 / Riga Congress
The Sound of Music
www.bilesuserviss.lv
www.opera.lv
March 14 / Days Hotel
Madame Butterfly
www.fbi.lv
www.bilesuparadize.lv
March 15 / Arena Riga
April 15 / Daile Theatre
Stass Pjeha
Anna Karenina
www.bilesuserviss.lv
www.opera.lv
March 15 / Riga Congress
April 16 / Latvian National Opera
Spivakovs gala concert
Le Villi
www.bilesuserviss.lv
www.opera.lv
March 17 / Great Guild
April 20 / Latvian National Opera
Olegs Pogudins
April 23 / Riga Congress House
www.bilesuserviss.lv
February 20 / Kipsala
Tommy Emmanuel
www.bilesuserviss.lv
April 27 / Riga Congress House
Lord of the Dance
www.bilesuserviss.lv
www.bilesuserviss.lv
May
Bryan Adams
Unknown Territories
March 21 / Arena Riga
March 25 / Arena Riga
www.bilesuserviss.lv
Sofia Rei
Celtic Legends
www.redhouse-agency.com/
www.bilesuserviss.lv
Emir Kusturica & the No
Smoking Orchestra
Anars
Macy Gray
April 12 / Latvian National Opera
Katy Perry
Erotic Festival 2015
www.thenosmokingorchestra.com/
April 11 / Palladium
Andrejs Maksimovs
www.bilesuserviss.lv
February 24 / Palladium
April 6 / Arena Riga
Stass Pjeha
February 18 / Arena Riga
February 20 / Riga Concert Hall
April 3 / Great Guild
Ottmar Liebert
March 13 / Big Guild
March 27 / Riga Congress House
www.bilesuparadize.lv
RESTAURANT BURKĀNS
May 21 / Latvian National Opera
House
www.opera.lv
Mikhails Kaziniks
LNSO Closing season
concert
March 1 / Big Guild
www.bilesuserviss.lv
Varum & Agutins
Igudesman & Joo
www.bilesuserviss.lv
www.opera.lv
GATEWAY RIGA
•
winter/spring 2015
April 1 / Latvian National Opera
May 29 / Great Guild
www.bilesuparadize.lv
Breakfast Buffet:
Every Day, 7:00 – 11:00
Hours of Operation:
Every Day, 12:00 – 23:00
(Kitchen closes at 22:00)
Restaurant «ALUS ARSENĀLS» («Beer Arsenal») is located in the Old
Riga, near the Presidential Palace of the Republic of Latvia, on the quiet
Arsenāla Street. During summer season a large terrace is opened with
an outlook on the Presidential Palace of the Republic of Latvia.
Democratic, informal atmosphere, excellent Latvian cuisine, attentive
and fast service, reasonable prices – it's the restaurant «ALUS
ARSENĀLS».
Good choice of latvian draft beers.
«ALUS ARSENĀLS» – IT’S A GOOD TRADITION!
May 8 / Great Guild
The love for three oranges
Aspazijas Boulevard 36/38, Riga, LV-1050, Latvia
Table Reservations:
tel +371 66010333
[email protected]
ALUS ARSENĀLS
Bruckners Seventh
April
Following the latest culinary trends in the world of gastronomy,
De Commerce Gastro Pub offers its guests an innovative approach to the
traditional pub-restaurant dining experience with meticulous attention to
flavours, ingredients, and presentation. Select from our many fine wines
to sip, or unwind with a handcrafted cocktail and indulge in the impeccable, award-winning cuisine of our top-rated Executive Chef while enjoying
the sweeping panoramic views of the vibrant city centre.
Jomas iela 42, Jūrmala
tel +371 20240000, +371 67764060
www.majorenhoff.lv, [email protected]
Open every day from 10:00 – 23:00
www.opera.lv
www.anarmusic.ru
March
•
Welcome to Majorenhoff restaurant!
We are happy to offer our guests versatile cuisine for gourmets and
lovers of exotic foods and traditional European dishes.
You will be able to find a wide assortment of different kinds of pizza in
our restaurant according to your own taste, and you will know what the
real Italian pizza is. Tried our pizza, baked according an ancient Italian
recipes with adding spices and sauces, and you will find yourselves in
the streets of Palermo or Neapol. We are ready to offer a wide assortment of sushi to admirers of Japanese food. Restaurant's style, interior
and atmosphere are ideal for various events from business lunches to
romantic dates and meeting with friends.
Here everything is done to make our guests comfortable. Attentive and
helpful waiting staff will acquaint you with new dishes on our menu.
Our restaurant is situated in the very heart of Jūrmala resort at the
beginning of pedestrian Jomas Street. Our guests always come back
and every time we are ready to surprise them with our new offers.
Sophisticated yet cosy atmosphere, versatile and creative menu will
leave you with the best impression and positive emotions.
March 29 / Great Guild
www.fbi.lv
62
RESTAURANT MAJORENHOFF
May 2 / Latvian National Opera
February 27 / Palladium
March 3 / Arena Riga
DE COMMERCE GASTRO PUB 1871,
RESTAURANT AND BAR
h o t s po ts
f o rth c o mi n g e v e n ts
February
Yann Tiersen
Great local and international cuisine ;river pearl highly appreciated by
locals and city guests, run by Riga bar father figure – charismatic Arnis
Biksus, artistically mixing cocktails at a bar here daily. Their famous
award-winning chef starts every morning by handpicking the freshest
local farmer products from the Central Market for his seasonal local and
international cuisine dishes. Ask their sommelier to find the best wine
match for your curiously and innovative presented meal. Perfect river
view completely breezy and carefree vibes! Wine courses upon
request, great banqueting and catering menus (more on our website).
Pils laukums 4, (entrance from Arsenala iela)
LV-1050, Riga, Latvia.
tel +371 67322675, +371 20363335
[email protected], www.alus-arsenals.lv
OPEN: Mon – Thu 12:00 – 23:00
Fri – Sat 12:00 – 24:00
Sunday
13:00 – 23:00
11 novembra krastmala 9, Rīga
tel + 371 67503964
[email protected]
www.burkans.lv
Information correct at time of going to press.
Photos courtesy of Red House Agency, Opera.lv
and Makroconcert.lv
winter/spring 2015
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
63
Riga International Airport
87
MORE PASSENGERS, MORE ROUTES
Trondheim
Turku
Aalesund
New York
Bergen
Oslo
Stavanger
Aalborg
Billund
Stockholm
Munich
Zurich
Milan
Nice
Barcelona
Palma de Mallorca
St. Petersburg
Gothenburg
destinations
Vilnius
Minsk
ger numbers. New routes are scheduled to
64
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
Budapest
Rome
Tashkent
Chisinau
Venice
Rijeka
will base a second aircraft in Riga by April 2015.
For charter flights, the most popular destina-
It opened a base here with one aircraft in June
tion is Antalya in Turkey, followed by Heraklion
2014 and the success of its initial routes has
on the Greek island of Crete, Hurghada in Egypt
persuaded it to quickly upgrade its presence here.
and Burgas on Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast.
A second plane in Riga will allow it to create
at least three more routes, to Hamburg (Lubeck),
NEW DESTINATIONS
Stavanger and Liverpool. These are in addition
More than half of all passengers using Riga
to routes already in operation to Barcelona,
International Airport are flying with the Latvian
Bergen, Eindhoven, Dortmund, Doncaster/
national airline airBaltic. The world’s most
Sheffield, London Luton, Oslo Torp and Paris.
have one flight a week, from Riga on Saturdays
and from Aalborg on Sundays. From June 5, the
airline will also fly twice a week to the historical
Bucharest
Dubrovnik
Bari
Out of all of the
Baltic region’s
air passengers,
46% fly via
Riga.
winter/spring 2015
The increasingly popular low-cost airline Wizz Air
and Stockholm.
Aalborg in Denmark will be connected to
Thessaloniki
Tbilisi
Burgas
Istanbul
Heraklion
Ashgabat
Greek city of Thessaloniki.
A new airBaltic route to Dubrovnik on the
scenic coast of Croatia will start on May 26, also
with one flight a week, while the Greek island of
Baku
Rhodes will be linked directly from Riga with a
single weekly flight from June 12. Starting from
Antalya
Rhodes Larnaca
Tel Aviv
Sharm El Sheikh
Hurghada
Riga International Airport’s rising passen-
via Riga are Tallinn, Vilnius, Helsinki, Moscow
in Denmark after Copenhagen and Billund, it will
Malta
clear that airlines are keen to capitalise on
MORE WITH WIZZ
Riga from April 18. airBaltic’s third destination
Athens
As the summer season approaches, it is
sengers’ most frequently chosen destinations
three new routes this year.
Kiev
Vienna
flights a day.
FlightStats, airBaltic will be launching at least
Corfu
Exciting new routes continue to be launched from
Riga International Airport,
as passenger numbers
rise.
International Airport are in transit. Transfer pas-
Riga and Moscow Sheremetyevo, to three
punctual airline in 2014, according to analysts
Warsaw
Pisa
Olbia
Moscow
Palanga
Copenhagen
Glasgow
Leeds
Hamburg Lubeck
Manchester Doncaster
Liverpool
Bremen
Dublin
East Midlands
Amsterdam
Berlin
Eindhoven
Dortmund
London
Dusseldorf
Brussels Cologne
Prague
Frankfurt
Paris
Helsinki
Tallinn
So it should come as no surprise to learn
that almost 30% of passengers using Riga
Wizz Air’s decision to base a
second aircraft
here is great
news for Riga.
June 13 airBaltic will offer single weekly flights
Capacity will get a boost on these existing
to Pisa in Italy.
routes with a greater choice of flights and flight
The Scandinavian airline SAS is returning to
times. Besides being great news for passengers,
Latvia, opening up direct flights between Riga
Wizz Air’s decision to base an additional aircraft
and Stockholm from March 29. SAS will operate
here is good for Riga International Airport too in
up to 18 flights per week on the route.
terms of route development.
A second route to Central Asia, compli-
All of these new routes from various airlines
menting the one already in operation between
build on the 14 already launched in 2014, all of
Tashkent and New York JFK via Riga, is launch-
which have been successful. Riga International
ing on February 13. Turkmenistan Airlines flies
Airport handled almost 66,000 aircraft during
between Riga and the exotic Turkmen city of
the year. Currently 66 destinations are available
Ashgabat, famous for being home to the world’s
from Riga, provided by 16 carriers, numbers
be launched in 2015 to cities and destina-
airport this year, while those already here
biggest concentration of buildings made of white
which are certain to rise as 2015 progresses.
tions in Scandinavia, Northern Europe, the
are increasing the range of destinations and
marble. It is possible that this route could later
In summer season 2015, the number of desti-
Mediterranean, Central and Eastern Europe,
numbers of flights.
be extended from Riga to Toronto in Canada.
nations will reach 87, and the services will be
and Central Asia.
Travellers’ most popular destinations to
Ukraine International Airlines will launch
provided by airBaltic, Aeroflot, Austrian Airlines
Riga International Airport saw 4.814 mil-
and from Riga are currently London, Moscow,
a new route to Kiev from March 30, with five
Group, Belavia, Brussels Airlines, Finnair,
lion passengers pass through its mod-
Frankfurt, Helsinki and Oslo. Crucially, the
flights per week, while Swiss International
LOT, Lufthansa, Nesma Airlines, Norwegian,
ern terminal building in 2014, a slight but
Baltic region’s geographically most central
Airlines will start operations between Riga
Onur Air, Ryanair, SAS, Smartlynx, Swiss
indisputable increase on the previous year.
airport is also by far its busiest – out of all of
and Zurich three times a week from March
International Airlines, Transaero, Turkish Airlines,
Recognising the potential, a number of air-
the Baltics’ air passengers, 46% fly via Riga
31. Meanwhile, the Russian airline Aeroflot
Turkmenistan Airlines, Ukraine International
lines new to Riga will start operations at the
International Airport.
has increased its number of flights between
Airlines, Uzbekistan Airways, and Wizz Air.
winter/spring 2015
•
GATEWAY RIGA
•
65
AIRPORT’S MOST AMBITIOUS
INFRASTRUCTURE PROJECT EVER
Riga International Airport’s biggest construction
job since opening in 1974 is near completion.
Improved flight safety, enhanced environmental
90-degree taxiway exit from the runway. Others
“For example, one of the project’s gains
conditions and increased capacity – these are
accomplished since then include rebuilding the
is increased flight safety in adverse weather
the clear benefits of the most ambitious project
runway pavement surface, strengthening the run-
conditions. Simultaneously, we will carry on the
ever attempted at Riga International Airport.
way strip and the safety area at the runway’s
modernisation works to the airport terminal, the
Implementation of the €94.2 million project
northern end, constructing an additional rapid exit
results of which passengers will appreciate as
Infrastructure Development of Riga International
taxiway and renovating two more, upgrading the
soon as this year.”
Airport over the last two years, funded mostly
approach lighting system to CAT II and installing
Kaspars Ozoliņš, State Secretary of the
through the European Union’s Cohesion Fund,
taxiway centre-line lights, rebuilding the airport
Ministry of Transport remarked, “The EU-funded
is resulting in hugely significant reconstruction
aprons, building two aircraft de-icing platforms
project Infrastructure Development of Riga
works on and around the runway. Construction
and new rainwater and airfield drainage systems,
International Airport is not only one of the
works worth around €80 million has been com-
and building a vehicle washing hangar, a waste
largest projects in the transport sector imple-
pleted so far.
collection hangar and a new fire-fighting station.
mented with the support of the Cohesion Fund
The project is the biggest ever to be imple-
The biggest share of the construction works
in the planning period of 2007-2013, but also
mented since the airport was first put into opera-
has been made by the companies FCC, Hochtief
the most ambitious project in the history of the
tion in 1974. Its successful completion means
and ACB. Amazingly, runway construction activ-
airport’s operations. The project is crucial for
that Riga International Airport is upgraded to
ity was limited to between midnight and 6am,
the economy of Latvia, as air transport has a
CAT II international status. This means that on
keeping flight delays to an absolute minimum.
significant influence on the country’s economic
days of poor visibility, for example, flight delays
“We have made significant investment in the
development and the growth of GDP, which in
will be reduced and the safety of airline opera-
reconstruction of the aerodrome infrastructure
tions will be raised.
turn impacts the results of other industries.”
that may not be noticeable to passengers yet
The project continues into 2015. There will
A series of 12 key tasks and activities
are very important for flight safety,” said Andris
be reconstruction of the concrete pavement
within the project were accomplished virtually
Liepiņš, Riga International Airport’s Chairman
of Apron No 1, which is worn in places, plus
simultaneously. The first to be completed was a
of the Board.
the purchase of a specialised aircraft rescue
and firefighting vehicle and additional security
equipment.
Following the recent completion of additional
aircraft stands next to the terminal building, a
new pier will also be constructed and seven new
jet bridges will then be attached. The result will
be a substantial rise in capacity by 2018 and
an increase in space for shopping and restaurants. Already reconstructed is the VIP Centre,
expanded to 2060 square metres in 2014 and
now able to provide speedy services both to
Schengen and non-Schengen passengers.
Production
Check-In Baltic
Palasta iela 10,
Rīga, LV 1050
Tel: +371 29207271
Magazine reg. nr.
000703023
Editor-in-Chief Justin Walley
Contributing writer Anatol Steven
Art director Guntis Gvozdevs
Publisher Māris Jēkabsons
Advertising and Sales Enquiries: [email protected]
Tel:+371 29207271
Editorial: [email protected]
Comments and opinions: [email protected]
Website: www.riga-airport.com
Gateway Riga is the official airport magazine for RIGA International Airport.
It is distributed three times per year. Start circulation 17000. Opinions expressed in this
publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed and do not necessarily
reflect the views of the editor, Check-In Baltic or RIGA International Airport.
All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and
illustrations are not accepted. Gateway Riga accepts no responsibility for such materials
sent to its office, nor is it liable for loss of, or damage to, such material. All prices are
subject to change without notice.
Gateway Riga accepts no responsibility for printing errors.
Printed by MicroDot, Latvia.
Special thanks for help with editorial content and/or providing photo: Marians Pahars, Viktors Sopirins, Latvian Football Federation, FHM Latvija, Zürich
Tourismus Media, Irbe Treile, Latvian National Opera, the Red House Agency, Inese Keisa, Makroconcert, Fbi.lv, Latvian Tourism Development Agency,
Enars Plinta, Enterprise Estonia, Tallinn TV Tower, Viktorija Toompere, airBaltic, Swissair, Rozengrals, Austin Nicholas, Travel Out There, Diklu Pils, La Daile
Spa, Jonathan Spa Estate, Aiga Lapina, ESPA Riga, Olga Stavinska, Wellton Centrum Hotel & Spa, Dina Vjatere, Taka Spa, Liene Pelekzirne, Inchcape
Motors Latvia, Jana Garanča, Latvian Automotive Association, Ingus Rutins, Nora Krevneva.