T-80 - In-cosmetics
Transcription
T-80 - In-cosmetics
Cosmetic Catalogs from SUNJIN, 2013 Part1. UV filters for Sun Care Part2. Micro Beads ECOCERT Pigments From the Editor SUNJIN, The innovative TiO2 supplier With this edition, we celebrate introduction of new and innovative TiO2 for sun protection. In case you’re wondering, we’re proud to show TX-80, 30nm TiO2 with silica & dimethicone coating T-80, non-nano TiO2 with silica & JJ or SF or LL or SA or AS coating SUNSIL Tin50, TiO2 in Silica Bead for ultra light texture All of these products are something unique and innovative. As an institution, SUNJIN believes that we’re agile minds with a unique capacity to initiate and innovate. We’re ready to be your partners for your success. Sung-HO LEE Editor in Chief Head of R&D CEO of SUNJIN Content 6 Nano TiO2 TX-80: TiO2 & silica & dimethicone 17 Non Nano TiO2 T-80: Revolutionary Non Nano TiO2 40 TiO2 Dispersions Non Nano TiO2 Dispersion ECOCERT TiO2 Dispersion Nano TiO2 Dispersion Aqueous TiO2 Dispersion 67 Hybrid PMMA Beads with Avobenzone, BEMT, EHT inside Hybrid AB: PMMA 70% & Avobenzone 30% Hybrid S: PMMA 70% & BEMT 30% Hybrid EHT: PMMA 70% & EHT 30% 107 Formula Book ECOCERT Sun Care Chemical Filter Free Sun Care SPF50, PA+++ O/W SPF50, PA+++ W/O 59 Silica Bead with TiO2 inside Sun Protect Gel SUNSIL Tin50: Ultra Light Texture & Ultimate Transparency BB & CC Cream Sun Spray Pressed Powder with Sun Protection 102 Zinc Oxide In vivo test Capability @SUNJIN In vitro SPF & PA test @ SUNJIN In vivo SPF & PA test @ SUNJIN Optometrics 290 SPF Testing 601-300W Multiport UV Solar Simulator Installed at SUNJIN in 2001 Installed at SUNJIN in 2009 Sample Report from SUNJIN All Formulas from SUNJIN, With in vivo test results TX-80 Nano TiO 2 In combination with Avobenzone TX-80 TEM New Release in 2013! 30nm TiO2 Silica Dimethicone TX-80 TiO2 SiO2 Dimethicone SEM 80% 15% 5% “Alumina Free” Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 6 Why TX-80? 3 Benefits: 1. In combination with Avobenzone (BMDBM) i.e. Alumina Free 2. Easy to be dispersed 3. High SPF Benefit #1 1. Alumina Free In combination with Avobenzone (BMDBM) BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatings 2. Easy to be dispersed 3. High SPF Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2. The amount of BMDBM decreases weakening of the UVA protection 1. Avobenzone compatibility test Tested TiO2 #1: Company “I” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone Tested Formula: W/O SUN CREAM Part Trade Name 5 kinds of TiO2 tested % 8.00 Parsol 1789 3.00 OMC 7.50 OS 5.00 OC 2.40 #3 Company “K” Product “M” TiO2, Silica, Methicone ABIL EM90 2.00 ABIL WE09 3.00 Finsolv TN 6.00 #4 Company “D” Product “P” TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone Salacos 99 3.00 CETIOL CC 3.00 D.I-Water 49.60 #2 Company “T” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid #5 Company: SUNJIN Product: TX-80 TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone A B NaCl 1.00 1,3-BG 6.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 60℃, 4weeks 25℃, 4weeks Analyzed by Liquid Chromatography Analysis Condition 1. Model : Agilent 1200 HPLC 2. Column : ZORBAX Eclipse XDS-C18 250×4.6mm I.D., 5um 3. Guard Column : ZORBAX Eclipse XDSC18 12.5×4.6mm I.D., 5um 4. Mobile Phase : 0.1% TFA in water : MeOH = 10 : 90 5. Detector : UV 358nm 6. Column over Temp. : 35℃ 7. Flow rate : 0.6ml/min 8. Injection volume : 1ul Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 9 Combination Test Result Test Results at 20℃ #1: Company “I” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone #2 Company “T” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid Test Results at 60℃ Avobenzone % Tested TiO2 #4 TX-80 #3 #4 #3 TX-80 #2 #1 #3 Company “K” Product “M” TiO2, Silica, Methicone #2 #4 Company “D” Product “P” TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone #5 Company: SUNJIN Product: TX-80 TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone #1 week #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 week 0 2.13 2.11 2.75 2.71 2.84 week 1 1.72 1.67 2.64 2.65 week 2 1.51 1.56 2.57 week 3 1.44 1.52 week 4 1.44 1.43 week #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 week 0 2.13 2.11 2.75 2.71 2.84 2.61 week 1 0.47 0.6 2.65 2.68 2.64 2.63 2.55 week 2 0.27 0.5 2.54 2.62 2.63 2.54 2.60 2.58 week 3 0.26 0.48 2.56 2.66 2.57 2.46 2.58 2.53 week 4 0.26 0.42 2.49 2.59 2.43 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 10 Benefit #2 1. In combination with Avobenzone (BMDBM) i.e. Alumina Free 2. Easy to be dispersed 3. High SPF 2. Dispersibility Test Result Tested TiO2 #1: Company “I” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone #2 Company “T” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid #3 Company “K” Product “M” TiO2, Silica, Methicone #4 Company “D” Product “P” TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone #5 Company: SUNJIN Product: TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Dicaprylyl Carbonate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Sun Flower Oil Cyclomethicone Liquid Paraffin Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 12 Benefit #3 1. In combination with Avobenzone (BMDBM) i.e. Alumina Free 2. Easy to be dispersed 3. High SPF High SPF Tested TiO2 #1: Company “I” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone Tested Formula: W/O SUN CREAM Part Trade Name 5 kinds of TiO2 tested #2 Company “T” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid % 8.00 Parsol 1789 3.00 OMC 7.50 OS 5.00 OC 2.40 ABIL EM90 Formula In vivo SPF PA #2 54 8.0 2.00 #4 50 8.6 ABIL WE09 3.00 #5 TX 80 50 9.8 #4 Company “D” Product “P” TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone Finsolv TN 6.00 Salacos 99 3.00 CETIOL CC 3.00 #5 Company: SUNJIN Product: TX-80 TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone D.I-Water 49.60 #3 Company “K” Product “M” TiO2, Silica, Methicone A B NaCl 1.00 1,3-BG 6.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.50 25℃, 1week SPF Testing 601-300W Multiport UV Solar Simulator Installed at SUNJIN in 2009 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 14 Transmittance Curve Tested TiO2 #1: Company “I” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone #3 Company “K” Product “M” TiO2, Silica, Methicone 90 80 70 Transmittance% #2 Company “T” Product “M” TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid 100 #1 #2 #3 #4 TX 80 60 50 40 #4 Company “D” Product “P” TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone 30 #5 Company: SUNJIN Product: TX-80 TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone 10 20 0 290 310 330 350 Wavelength 370 390 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 15 T-80 series Revolutionary Non Nano TiO2 PERSONAL CARE Nov. 2012 Released in 2012. Published in ‘Personal Care Magazine’ in Nov. 2012 Sales of T-80 is spiking worldwide in 2013 T-80 series, Non Nano TiO2 Aggregation TiO2 TiO2 20~80nm Silica Thin layer Coating T-80AS T-80AS TiO2 SiO2 Alkyl Silane 80% 15% 5% T-80 T-80 TiO2 SiO2 84% 16% Nano TiO2 bound By inorganic silica binder to from Micro size granule T-80JJ or T-80SF T-80JJ/SF TiO2 80% SiO2 12% Jojoba Esters 8% /Sun Flower Ester T-80LL T-80LL TiO2 80% SiO2 12% Lauroyl Lysine 8% T-80SA T-80SA TiO2 80% SiO2 12% Stearic Acid 8% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 18 TEM of T-80 Silica Thin layer Coating Particle Size D10 : 364nm D50 : 562nm D90 : 988nm Primary TiO2 T-80 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 19 7 big Things about T-80 series 1. Non Nano 2. UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm 3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO 5. ECOCERT TiO2 6. No Alumina 7. Good Photo-stability Are you ready? I’m going to explain the benefits one by one Benefit #1 1. Non Nano 2. UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm 3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO 5. ECOCERT TiO2 6. No Alumina 7. Good Photo-stability Particle Size Analysis by Dynamic Light Scattering Particle Size D10 : 364nm D50 : 562nm D90 : 988nm T-80 Test Equipment Maker: Malvern Model: Master sizer 2000 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 22 SEM of T-80 T-80 Test Equipment Maker: HITACHI Model: S-4700 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 23 Specific Surface Area Measurement BET = 46.9m2/g T-80 Test Equipment Maker: Micrometrics Model: ASAP 2020 THE EUROPEAN COMMISSION HAS ADOPTED THIS RECOMMENDATION(Oct. 2011): 5. Where technically feasible and requested in specific legislation, compliance with the definition in point 2 may be determined on the basis of the specific surface area by volume. A material should be considered as falling under the definition in point 2 where the specific surface area by volume of the material is greater than 60 m2/cm3. However, a material which, based on its number size distribution, is a nanomaterial should be considered as complying with the definition in point 2 even if the material has a specific surface area lower than 60 m2/cm3. Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 24 OK…it’s non-nano…but is it strong enough? We tried to check whether it’s still held together after strong shear force of emulsion process We tested T-80 series together with the other nano TiO2 & nano ZnO Non nano & Not Breakable by shear force of emulsion process NANO Particle detection test results from RAW Material T-80JJ NANO Particle detection test results from finished formula T-80JJ 10% containing W/O formula 2500rpm 30min 35nm ZnO 10% containing W/O formula 35nm ZnO 2500rpm 30min 20nm TiO2 20nm TiO2 10% containing W/O formula Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 26 Benefit #2, #3, #4 1. Non Nano 2. UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm 3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO 5. ECOCERT TiO2 6. No Alumina EU Commission Guidelines 1. UVA protection factor must be at least 1/3 of claimed SPF if claimed(i.e. labeled) SPF = 30, in vivo UVAPF > 10, in vitro 2. Critical wavelength should be over 370nm 7. Good Photo-stability Tested Samples 15nm TiO2, Product “M” TiO2: 82% Al2O3 & Stearic Acid: 18% 500nm TiO2, T-80JJ TiO2: 80% SiO2 & Jojoba esters: 20% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 28 T-80 Series meet EU UVA Protection Guideline Test Formula: W/O sun cream Par t A B C 7 Big Things about T-80 Trade Name % Test Result in vivo SPF D.I. WATER 65.0 Natural Extract 5.0 NACL 1.0 CETIOL CC 13.0 in vitro SPF LAMEFORM TGI 2.0 in vitro UVA PF DEHYMULS PGPH 2.0 15nm TiO2 vs. T-80JJ SUNSIL-150H 10.0 2.0 in vivo UVA PF SPF/ UVA PF C.W 15nm TiO2 T-80JJ 28 26 - 6.0 25.77 27.83 8.56 13.79 =28/8.56 =3.27 363.3 #3 #4 =26/13.79 =1.88 ≤ 3.0 379.5 ≥ 370nm 1.Non Nano 2.UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm Benefit #2 3.UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 4.UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO 5.ECOCERT TiO2 6.No Alumina 7.Good Photo-stability Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 29 Transmittances Curve Transmittance % 15nm TiO2 SPF/UVAPF = 3.27 T-80JJ SPF/UVAPF = 1.88 Wavelength Same level of UVB protection Better UVA protection Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 30 Broad UVA & UVB protection UVB In vivo SPF/% UVA In vivo PA/% 15nm TiO2 2.5 - 40nm ZnO 1.5 0.3 T-80AS 2.6 0.6 T-80JJ 2.5 0.6 T-80LL 2.5 0.6 UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 UVA protection twice better than 40nm ZnO Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 31 Why Broad UVA & UVB Protection? T-80 means less Cost & More Formulation Freedom Primary TiO2 particle 20nm for UVB protection Secondary semi spherical TiO2 granule for UVA protection Benefits • T-80 series can boost SPF & PA at the same time • No need to add TiO2 and ZnO separately • This means less formulation cost and more formulation freedom • Moreover, T-80 can be good in combination with Avobenzone that is of the most economic UVA filter Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 32 Benefit #5, #6 1. Non Nano 2. UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm 3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO 5. ECOCERT TiO2 6. No Alumina 7. Good Photo-stability Benefit #5, #6 Alumina Free means BMDBM compatible BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatings T-80JJ or T-80SF ECOCERT Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2. The amount of BMDBM decreases weakening of the UVA protection Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 34 Benefit #7 1. Non Nano 2. UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm 3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO 5. ECOCERT TiO2 6. No Alumina 7. Good Photo-stability Photo-Stability T-80 Series show much better photo-stability as compared to other commercially available TiO2 Y.I Y.I Y.I: Yellow Index Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 36 Customers’ Questions FAQ… ? How much T-80 series do we have to add to get SPF50? % Table of T-80 series for SPF Unit PA of T-80 series is 0.6 Category Low protection Medium protection High protection Labelled sun protection factor Measured sun protection factor % of T-80 series needed 6 6 – 9.9 2.0 10 10 – 14.9 3.5 15 15 – 19.9 5.5 20 20 – 24.9 7.6 25 25 – 29.9 9.9 30 30 – 49.9 12.4 50 50 – 59.9 25.0 % Needed for PA 4~7% of T-80 needed for PA+ 7~14% for PA++ >14% for PA+++ Copyright © 2012 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 38 TiO2 Dispersions We deliver various kinds of TiO2 dispersions: 1.Non-Nano 2.ECOCERT 3.Nano 4.Aqueous Overview Non Nano TiO2 Dispersion ECOCERT TiO2 Dispersion Nano TiO2 Dispersion Aqueous TiO2 Dispersion SFT85-AB SFT85-CCTG SFT85-CC TPD40-AB T40AQ Carrier Alkyl Benzoate Caprylic Capric Triglyceride Dicaprylyl Carbonate Alkyl Benzoate H2O Solid % 60% 60% 60% 45% 40% Net TiO2 % 48% 48% 48% 35% 32% TiO2 coating Silica / Triethoxy caprylyl silane Silica / Jojoba Esters Silica / Jojoba Esters Alumina Hydrated Silica Polyhydroxy stearic acid Polyhydroxy stearic acid Polyhydroxy stearic acid Polyhydroxy stearic acid Disodium stearyl Sulfosuccinamate T-80AS USED T-80JJ USED T-80JJ USED - - - - 1.62 ≤ 3.0 377nm 1.58 ≤ 3.0 377nm 1.58 ≤ 3.0 377nm 4.44 364nm ECOCERT - - - Alumina Free - - Dispersing agent Non-Nano EU UVA Protection SPF/PFA ≦3.0 C.W. ≧370nm SFT-85AB Do you want Non Nano but not necessarily ECOCERT? SFT-85AB, Nano Free SFT85-AB Carrier Alkyl Benzoate Solid % 60% SFT-85AB, Non Nano TiO2 Net TiO2 % 48% in Alkyl Benzoate has 6 Benefits… TiO2 coating Silica / Triethoxy caprylyl silane Dispersing agent Polyhydroxy stearic acid 1.Non Nano 2.UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm 3.UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2 Non-Nano EU UVA Protection SPF/PFA ≦3.0 C.W. ≧370nm T-80AS USED 1.62 ≤ 3.0 377nm ECOCERT - Alumina Free 4.UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO 5.No Alumina 6.Transparency Tested Samples T-80AS from SUNJIN used to make SFT-85AB SFT-85AB: Titanium dioxide & C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Triethoxy caprylyl silane & Silica Non Nano No Alumina SUNJIN Net TiO2: 48% Dispersion “X”: Titanium dioxide & C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Stearic Acid & Alumina Dispersion “C”: C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Titanium dioxide & Aluminum Stearate & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Alumina Non Nano Company “C” Net TiO2: 48% Nano Company “C” Net TiO2: 35% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 43 Tested Formula & Test Result 20% of Tested Products @ O/W sun cream Trade Name D.I-Water A % 50.15 P.G 4.0 Carbopol 940 2% 8.0 Arlacel 60 0.5 Tween 60 2.7 Kalcohol 6870 1.0 TCG-M 8.0 Myristic Acid 2.5 Arlacel 165 2.0 C TEA 0.2 D SFT85-AB vs. Dispersion X vs. Dispersion C 20.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Fragrance 0.15 B E Test Result SFT85AB “X” “C” in vivo SPF 25 21 16 in vitro SPF 33.29 25.62 10.95 in vitro UVA PF 15.47 15.05 3.6 =25/15.57 =1.62 =21/15.05 =1.40 =16/3 =4.44 377 381 363.3 SPF / UVA PF C.W UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical Wavelength > 370nm Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 44 Transmittances Curve Transmittance % Dispersion ”C” SPF/UVAPF = 4.4 SFT85-AB SPF/UVAPF = 1.6 Dispersion ”X” SPF/UVAPF = 1.4 Wavelength 20% of Tested Products @ O/W sun cream Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 45 SFT85-CC & SFT85-CCTG Do you want ECOCERT Sun Care And…not oily not sticky one? ECOCERT Dispersion Overview SFT85-CCTG SFT85-CC Carrier Caprylic Capric Triglyceride Dicaprylyl Carbonate Solid % 60% 60% Net TiO2 % 48% 48% TiO2 coating Silica / Jojoba Esters Silica / Jojoba Esters Dispersing agent Polyhydroxy stearic acid Polyhydroxy stearic acid T-80JJ USED T-80JJ USED 1.58 ≤ 3.0 377nm 1.58 ≤ 3.0 377nm Non-Nano EU UVA Protection SPF/PFA ≦3.0 C.W. ≧370nm Cetiol-CC(Dicaprylyl Carbonate) is an innovative, fast spreading, dry emollient that can significantly improve the sensory performance of the final formulation, therefore often used as a silicone oil alternative. It smoothes the skin, leaving a velvety sensation, and is highly compatible with ECOCERT Alumina Free many different skin types. Its ability to dissolve crystalline UV filters and to disperse pigments makes it particularly suitable for sun care products TPD40-AB Do you want Elegant Sun Care? -Transparent -With all the benefits of TiO2 Nano TiO2 in Alkyl Benzoate TPD40-AB Carrier Alkyl Benzoate Solid % 45% Net TiO2 % 35% TiO2 coating Alumina Dispersing agent Polyhydroxy stearic acid Benefits 1.Nano TiO2 dispersion with the best transparency • Cosmetically elegant – i.e. transparent – sun care and skin care products can be formulated with all the benefits of TiO2 • TPD40-AB provides better transparency on skin than any other grade of TiO2 currently available 2.High SPF 3.Incorporated in oil phase to make O/W Non-Nano - EU UVA Protection - → No need to have 2 different kinds 4.44 364nm of dispersions to make O/W or SPF/PFA ≦3.0 C.W. ≧370nm ECOCERT - Alumina Free - and W/O(W/S) formula W/O → simple inventory management Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 49 1. Transparency TPD40-AB: C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Titanium dioxide & Aluminum Stearate & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Alumina Nano SUNJIN Net TiO2: 35% W = 18.17 Dispersion “C”: C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Titanium dioxide & Aluminum Stearate & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Alumina Nano Company “C” Net TiO2: 35% W = 19.16 W: White Index Higher White index means less transparency Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 50 2. High SPF by in vivo Test Formula TPD40-AB 20% @ O/W sun cream Part A B C D E Trade Name % % D.I-Water 49.7 49.7 P.G 4.0 4.0 Carbopol 940 2% 8.0 8.0 Arlacel 60 0.5 0.5 Tween 60 2.7 2.7 Kalcohol 6870 1.0 1.0 TCG-M 8.0 8.0 Myristic Acid 2.5 2.5 Arlacel 165 2.0 2.0 TPD40-AB 20.0 - - 20.0 TEA 0.2 0.2 Sepiplus 400 0.5 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 Fragrance 0.15 0.15 In vivo SPF 19 16 Benchmark “C” Test Result TPD40-AB Benchmark “C” in vivo SPF 19 16 in vitro SPF 15.23 10.95 3.9 3.6 =19/3.9 =4.87 =16/3.6 =4.44 368.5 363.3 in vitro UVA PF SPF / UVA PF C.W Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 51 2. High SPF by in vitro test MPF TPD40-AB “C” Wavelength 20% of Tested Products @ O/W sun cream Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 52 Sunclear T40AQ Do you want O/W Sun Care? TiO2 Aqueous Dispersion! TiO2 in water dispersion T40AQ Carrier H2 O Solid % 40% Net TiO2 % 32% TiO2 coating Hydrated Silica Benefits 1.Can be incorporated into water phase Oil based dispersion system can restrict the formulator as the carrier oil has to be incorporated into the oil phase with TiO2 thus limiting the Dispersing agent Disodium stearyl Sulfosuccinamate formulator’s choice of oils. T40AQ offer greater formulation flexibility for O/W systems. This TiO2 water dispersion is ideal for O/W based emulsions is perfect for sprays 2.Compatible with various thickeners Non-Nano - 3.No odor EU UVA Protection - 4.Low viscosity SPF/PFA ≦3.0 C.W. ≧370nm ECOCERT - Alumina Free - Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 54 1. Why Aqueous Dispersion? Why do I need Aqueous dispersion? When to use? Chemical filter in oil phase Physical filter in Water phase Chemical filter in oil phase Physical filter in Oil phase TiO2 Chemical UV filters in internal oil phase Synergistic SPF boost comes from Improved skin coverage: incorporation of one active the oil phase and one in the water phase of an emulsion results in improved overall coverage of the skin Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 55 Really? The test shows that when you split UV filters into water phase, SPF jumps from 50 to 57…14% increase (57/50) Split UV filters for SPF efficiency Phase Water phase Ingredients % Phase Ingredients % Water 29.3 Water 30.3 NaCl 1.0 15.0 1.3 BG 5.0 SUNCLEART40AQ Phenoxy Ethanol 0.5 Allantoin Water Phase SUNSIL-Tin50 3.0 1.3 BG 5.0 0.2 Phenoxy Ethanol 0.5 Cetiol CC 10.0 Allantoin 0.2 ZD60-BOS 30.0 Cetiol CC 10.0 TPD40-AB 15.0 ZD60-BOS 30.0 SUNSIL-Tin50 3.0 KSG 16 2.0 ABIL EM90 2.0 KF-6017 2.0 In vivo SPF 50 In vivo PA 8.0 Oil Phase ZnO used = 30%*55% = 16.5 % TiO2 used = 15%*32% + 3.0%*40% = 4.8% + 1.2% = 6.0 % Oil Phase KSG 16 2.0 ABIL EM90 2.0 KF-6017 2.0 In vivo SPF 57 In vivo PA 8.0 ZnO used = 30.0%*55% = 16.5 % TiO2 used = 15.0%*32% + 3.0%*40% = 4.8% + 1.2% = 6.0 % Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 56 2. Good compatibility with popular thickeners Tested thickeners T40AQ VEEGUM: Magnesium aluminum silicate OK CARBOPOL 940: Carbomer 0.3% OK SEPIGEL 305: Polyacrylamide/ C13-14 Isoparaffin/ Laureth-7 OK FLOCARE ET76: Sodium Polyacrylate & Hydrogenated Polydecene & Trideceth-6 1% OK Test condition Tested formula: O/W, T40AQ used 15% Emulsifier used : AR165 2% & TWEEN60 1% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 57 SUNSIL Tin50 Something for premium Sun Care Non Nano TiO2 for Ultra Light Texture SUNSIL Tin50, TiO2 Encapsulated Silica Bead SPF Booster for Premium Sun Care 5um Silica Bead With TiO2 TiO2 Silica 42% 58% Benefits 1.Ultra Light Texture 2.Ultimate Transparency 3.Non Nano 4.ECOCERT 5.Good SPF Boosting 1. Ultra Light Texture Good Spread & Feel due to external Silica Bead 5um Silica Bead With TiO2 Tin50 is Spherical. You can feel only external Silica Bead Ultra Light Texture Good Dispersibility due to external Silica Bead TiO2 Silica 42% 58% As the surface of Tin50 is silica, Tin50 exhibits the excellent dispersion properties of silica in both oil and water media. Cosmetic formulation process becomes much easier and formulation stability is more reliable as compared to the use of common nanosized TiO2. Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 60 2. Ultimate Transparency NANO TiO2 Nano TiO2 looks dark under microscope as light beneath blocked by opaque TiO2 SUNSIL Tin50 SUNSIL Tin50 is almost as Transparent as Silica Bead Silica Bead: SUNSIL 130 Silica Bead looks transparent. Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 61 3. Non Nano & 4. ECOCERT ECOCERT approved SUNSIL Tin50 as “mineral and natural origin” as there is no nano particles less than 100nm in SUNSIL Tin50 SUNSIL Tin50 Nano technology is applied to SUNSIL Tin50 but the size of SUNSIL Tin50 is micron-sized and visible enough to be seen under normal optical microscope There is no nano particle visible Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 62 5. Good SPF Boosting The real beauty of Tin50 O/W Sun Cream is that it boosts SPF of W/O Sun Cream 41 your formula while not 35 35 hurting Light Feel and 29 Transparency Nano TiO2 Nano ZnO OMC OS Tin50 2.3% 12% 3% - 2.3% 12% 3% - 3% Nano TiO2 Nano ZnO OMC OS Tin50 2% 3.5% 7% 5 - 2% 3.5% 7% 5 3% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 63 Hybrid PMMA series UV Filters in PMMA Beads - Avobenzone - BEMT - EHT Hybrid PMMA series Core: Chemical For UV protection UV Filters(30%) Shell: PMMA Bead(70%) 1) For Sensorial Modification 2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase Hybrid AB Hybrid S Hybrid EHT Composition PMMA 70% * Avobenzone 30% Composition PMMA 70% ** BEMT 30% Composition PMMA 70% *** EHT 30% Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection UVA+UVB UVB Protection *Avobenzone: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM) **BEMT: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ***EHT: Ethyl Hexyl Triazone When & How to incorporate Hybrid PMMA series? Q: When? A: After emulsion, after cooling down emulsion, incorporate Hybrid PMMA at low temperature(i.e. <30℃) Melting point BMDBM: 81~86℃ BEMT: 80 ℃ EHT: 123 ℃ Q: Why? A: As the Melting point of BMDBM is 81~86℃, if Hybrid AB adds before emulsion, during the emulsion process, the emulsion temperature could go up more than 81℃, BMDBM becomes liquid and it would be leaked out from PMMA shell. Q: How to add? A: Polymer Micro Beads are slightly hydrophobic, it would be difficult to incorporate polymer beads directly into water especially without poly alcohols Thus, premix polymer beads in poly alcohol solutions such as 1,3 Butylene Glycol or Propylene Glycol or Glycerin and add the premixed phase after emulsion Hybrid AB Water dispersible UVA filter Hybrid AB Core: Chemical For UV protection UV Filters(30%) Shell: PMMA Bead(70%) 1) For Sensorial Modification 2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase Hybrid AB Hybrid S Hybrid EHT Composition PMMA 70% * Avobenzone 30% Composition PMMA 70% ** BEMT 30% Composition PMMA 70% *** EHT 30% Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection UVA+UVB UVB Protection *Avobenzone: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM) **BEMT: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ***EHT: Ethyl Hexyl Triazone Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 68 BMDBM(=Avobenzone) UVA filter is a great but has Problems too Problems (1) Poor Solubility Avobenzone • • • • INCI: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM) Oil soluble UVA filter Avobenzone was patented in 1973 and was approved in the EU in 1978. It was approved by the FDA in 1988. Its use is approved worldwide Avobenzone is sensitive to the properties of the solvent, being relatively stable in polar protic solvents and unstable in nonpolar environments (3) Poor Compatibility Dimethicone 0 3 Cyclomethicone 0 50 Mineral oil 1 50 Isostearyl Isosterate 3 50 Octylpalmitate 3 50 Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 7 50 Isopropyl Myristate 9 50 PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate 5 50 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 11 50 Octyldodecanol 13 50 Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate 26 50 The amount of BMDBM decreases weakening of the UVA protection Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2. BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatings (4) Crystallization BMDBM is susceptible to crystallization that results in loss of product aesthetics, sun protection, appearance, stability (2) Poor Photo-stablility Avobenzone degrades quickly in the sun. Researchers have reported a 36% reduction in UVA absorption by avobenzone after only 15 minutes of exposure. In vitro studies have shown a 50% loss in UVA blockage for different sunscreen formulations, confirming the photodegradation of avobenzone. However, BMDBM is globally approved INCI Name Trade Name USA Japan EU BMDBM Parsol 1789 3 10 5 Australia 5 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 69 6 Big Things about Hybrid AB Hybrid AB Composition PMMA 70% * Avobenzone 30% Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Big Thing #1 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula UVA filter in water phase Most UV filters are either oils or need to be dissolved in polar emollients. The results are highly loaded oil phases, which lead to the most common limitations in Sun Care formulations -Reduced cosmetic elegance -Lower flexibility to modify the sensory properties of formulations -Suboptimal performance due to the use of filters mainly in one formulation phase Hybrid PMMA, water dispersible, can be incorporated in the water phase Hybrid PMMA Bead The use of Hybrid PMMA allows a balanced incorporation of UV filters in the water and oil phase. Therefore, a more homogeneous distribution of the UV filters on skin can be achieved which often result in a boosting effect Through incorporation into water phase, Hybrid PMMA offers increased formulation flexibility. Lower UV filter concentration is needed in the oil phase to achieve highest contribution to SPF and UVA-PF Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 72 Big Thing #2 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula PA+++ system Product Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Approval Status (max%) Remark EU JP US AUS DHHB* 4% 10 10 - 10 Not approved in US Expensive BEMT** 4% 10 3 - 10 Not approved in US Expensive Avobenzone 3.5% 5 10 3 5 Globally approved Zinc Oxide (40nm) 17% 25 100 25 20 BMDBM *DHHB % needed for PA+++ <100nm ZnO is not listed as UV Filter in EU To achieve PA+++, Avobenzone 3.5% in oil phase Possible option? **BEMT bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 74 Difficult to use Avobenzone 3.5% in oil phase. The reasons are… W/Si Not possible As avobenzone is not soluble to silicone oils, usage of even small amount of avobenzone together with silicone oils causes sever formula instability O/W Not recommended to put 3.5% of Avobenzone into internal oil phase as it greatly restricts formulation freedom in oil phase W/O Putting 3.5% in external oil phase is possible… Concerns about photostability & solubility of Avobenzone requires use of Octocrylene and other heavy oils So the feel is very oily and unpleasant So…Hybrid AB in water phase! Global PA+++ solution O/W #1-1 #1-2 #2-1 #2-2 #3-1 #3-2 #4-1 #4-2 BMDBM (=avobenzone) 3 1.2 3 1.2 1.7 3.5 - - Octocrylene 1 1 1 1.0 1.0 1 - - benzophenone-3 - - 3 3 - - - - 4 5 - - - 3.5 - - 8.0 8.0 9.2 Oil Phase BEMT Water Phase HYBRID AB - 6 Amount of BMDBM 3 =1.2+6%*3 0% 3 In vivo PFA 7.0 7.0 7.2 3 - 6 6 3 3.5 8.0 8.0 =1.2+6%*3 =1.7+6%*3 0% 0% Recommendation from SUNJIN Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 76 Global PA+++ solution Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 77 Chemical Filter Only SPF50 PA+++ Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 78 PA+++ solution for USA Max approval % of avobenzone in USA is 3% as compared to 5% or more in other countries From the formula right, BMDBM 1.2% + Hybrid AB 6% = 1.2% + 6%*30% = 1.2% + 1.8% = 3.0% BMDBM 3% is not enough to achieve PA+++ So that’s why BPS-3 is used to achieve PA+++ No mineral filters used to meet FDA regulation Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 79 Big Thing #3 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula 3. Ultra Light Texture Good Spread & Feel due to silica shell 5um PMMA Bead With BMDBM Hybrid AB is Spherical. You can feel only external PMMA Bead Ultra Light Texture No need to use emollients to solubilize BMDBM Solubility ratio Dimethicone 0 3 Cyclomethicone 0 50 Mineral oil 1 50 Isostearyl Isosterate 3 50 Octylpalmitate 3 50 Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 7 50 Isopropyl Myristate 9 50 PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate 5 50 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 11 50 Octyldodecanol 13 50 frequently used as a texture additive, and therefore lend the formula Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate 26 50 a soft-touch effect Most chemical filters are very oily and leave behind an unpleasant, sometimes sticky feel on the skin Hybrid PMMA has the excellent skin feel of PMMA bead which is Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 81 Big Thing #4 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Theoretical Explanation Photo-degradation of Avobenzone can be blocked as Avobenzone is 5um PMMA Bead With BMDBM immobilized or located inside solid PMMA matrix where avobenzone is segregated or protected from other UV filters or any other kinds of potentially reactive chemicals Thus Hybrid PMMA system is very novel and innovative way to improve photo-stability of avobenzone ‘Hybrid PMMA bead containing chemical Sunscreen filters’ Sung-HO Lee, SUNJIN Chemical IFSCC 2008 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 83 Photo-stability Test protocol Colipa Method Irradiation 10MED Proposed protocol for determination of photostability Part I: cosmetic UV filters PMMA Plate 5cm2 Layer 1.3mg/cm2 30min drying Analsis of solution: HPLC Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 84 Photostability Test Result 3.0 2.95 10 MED 3.0 3.0 3.0 2.95 2.7 10 MED 2.1 10 MED 10 MED Hybrid AB BMDBM 10% 0% Hybrid AB BMDBM 0% 3% Hybrid AB BMDBM 0% 3% Hybrid AB BMDBM 0% 0% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 0% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 0% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 2.4% OMC OS OC 7.5% 5% 0% BEMT 0% BEMT 0% BEMT 0% BEMT 3% Initial Net BMDBM = 3% Photo-stable Initial Net BMDBM = 3% Initial Net BMDBM = 3% Initial Net BMDBM = 0% Net BEMT = 3% Photo-stable Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 85 Big Thing #5 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Improved photo-stability 4. Ultra Light Texture 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Minimized Skin Irritancy Test Results #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9 Distilled Water 10.0 - - - - - - - - Isohexadecane - 10.0 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 SUNPMMA-S - - 1.00 - - - 0.62 0.62 0.62 OMC - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 - 0.31 Avobenzone - - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 0.07 Hybrid ABOMC - - - - - 1.00 - - - Irritation Score 0 1 2 5 3 1 3 2 3 #11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #7 #8 #9 Distilled Water 10.0 - - - - - - - - Alkyl Benzoate - 10.0 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 SUNPMMA-S - - 1.00 - - - 0.62 0.62 0.62 OMC - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 - 0.31 Avobenzone - - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 0.07 Hybrid ABOMC - - - - - 1.00 - - - Irritation Score 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 3 4 The encapsulation of UV filters inside PMMA bead reduces dermal uptake, thereby reducing the potential for irritation Minimized Skin Irritation Dermal response: Test Condition: Sample size: Study Design: Application time: Dosage: 5 subjects(Korean) Patch test 72hr 25㎕ 0 = No evidence of irritation 1 = Minimal erythema, 2 = Readily visible erythema, 3 = Erythema and papules 4 = Definite edema 5 = Erythema, edema, and papules 6 = Vesicular eruption 7 = strong reaction spreading “The 500-Da rule for skin penetration is: 1)virtually all common contact allergens are under 500-Da, larger molecules are not known as contact sensitizers…they can not penetrate and thus cannot act as allergens in man” Avobenzone Mw: 310.4 OMC Mw: 290 Octocrylene Mw: 361 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 87 Big Thing #6 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. Global PA+++ solution 3. Improved photo-stability 4. Ultra Light Texture 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Example 1: Mousse Foundation with UVA protection SJF-0806-Mousse Foundation-ver2.0 Evaluation No. Trade Name INCI % SPF 50 1 SUNTITAN-AS Titanium dioxide / Triethoxy caprylyl silane PA ++(5.0) 2 SUNSERI-AS Sericite / Triethoxy caprylyl silane 5.00 SPF/UVA 3 SUNMICA-AS Mica / Triethoxy caprylyl silane 2.00 Critical Wavelength 4 SUNSIL-130HSC Silica / Methicone 5.00 5 SUNSIL Tin50 Silica / Titanium dioxide 3.50 6 Hybrid Talc(DM) Talc / MBBT / Dimethicone 5.00 7 Hybrid AB 5.00 8 SUNIOR-AS 9 SUNIOY-AS 10 SUNIOB-AS PMMA / Avobenzone Iron oxide Red / Triethoxy caprylyl silane Iron oxide Yellow / Triethoxy caprylyl silane Iron oxide Black / Triethoxy caprylyl silane 11 SALACOS 99 Isononyl isononanoate 10.00 12 DC200-10CS Dimethicone 5.00 13 SQUALANE Squalane 3.00 14 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00 15 L.P Liquid Paraffin 6.00 16 NOMKORT HKG Glyceryl Behenate / Elcosadioate 4.00 17 JOJOBA OIL Jojoba oil 1.00 18 VIT.E ACETATE Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20 19 PARSOL MCX Ethylhexyl Methxycinnamate 2.00 20 GRAPE SEED OIL Grape Seed Oil C 21 KSG 16 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer 30.00 D 22 FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.08 White Index A Sensory Index Most chemical UV filters are not very silicone-compatible. How to incorporate siliconeincompatible UV filters into silicone phase? B 7.00 0.42 0.84 0.05 Have you ever seen any mousse foundation with UV protection property? Difficult to see in the market, right? You can incorporate Hybrid PMMA into silicone gel phase very easily by simple mixing 3.00 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 89 More Examples: Formulation Tip Hybrid AB provides UVA protection from water phase 5% of Hybrid AB can go up to PA++ Examples Sun Protect Gel, go page 124 Sun Spray, go page 126 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 90 Hybrid S BEMT in PMMA Beads Water dispersible UVA & UVB filter Hybrid S Core: Chemical For UV protection UV Filters(30%) Shell: PMMA Bead(70%) 1) For Sensorial Modification 2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase Hybrid AB Hybrid S Hybrid EHT Composition PMMA 70% * Avobenzone 30% Composition PMMA 70% ** BEMT 30% Composition PMMA 70% *** EHT 30% Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection UVA+UVB UVB Protection *Avobenzone: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM) **BEMT: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ***EHT: Ethyl Hexyl Triazone Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 92 BEMT Can’t be used together with more than 3% of cyclomethicone(D5) in formulation • INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine(BEMT) • oil-soluble • Broad-spectrum UV absorber, absorbing UVB as well as UVA rays. It has two absorption peaks, 310 and 340 nm. • Highly photostable. Even after 50 MEDs (minimal erythemal doses), 98.4% remains intact. It helps prevent the photodegradation of other sunscreen actives like avobenzone • Not approved in US • Unlike some other organic sunscreen actives, it shows no estrogenic effects in vitro.[12] • A recent development is Tinosorb S Aqua, which is bemotrizinol in a PMMA matrix dispersed in water. This makes it possible to add bemotrizinol to the water phase BEMT needle form crystal Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 93 6 Big Things about Hybrid S Hybrid S Composition PMMA 70% ** BEMT 30% Particle Size 5 um UVA+UVB 1. Water dispersible UVA filter 2. SPF50 & PA+++ 3. Ultra Light Texture 4. Improved photo-stability 5. Minimized Skin Irritancy 6. Novel formula Hybrid EHT EHT in PMMA Beads Water dispersible UVB filter Hybrid EHT Core: Chemical For UV protection UV Filters(30%) Shell: PMMA Bead(70%) 1) For Sensorial Modification 2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase Hybrid AB Hybrid S Hybrid EHT Composition PMMA 70% * Avobenzone 30% Composition PMMA 70% ** BEMT 30% Composition PMMA 70% *** EHT 30% Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection UVA+UVB UVB Protection *Avobenzone: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM) **BEMT: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ***EHT: Ethyl Hexyl Triazone Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 96 EHT Good Things INCI: Ethylhexyl triazone • The most powerful and photostable UVB filter • Excellent photostability • EHT, oil soluble UVB filter is the most powerful of its kind and has the highest UV absorption Bad Things (1) Poor Solubility (2) Crystallization PPG-3 myristyl ether 13.0 Polyol-fatty acid ester 10.0 Triethyl citrate 9.0 Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides 4.0 Japan(3%), Australia(5%), C12C15-alcohol benzoate 4.0 Korea(5%) Isopropyl myristate 3.5 Isopropyl palmitate 2.0 Oleic acid decyl ester 1.5 2-Ethylhexanoic acid cetylstearyl ester 1.0 Olive oil 1.0 Peanut oil 1.0 Jojoba oil < 1.0 Propylene glycol < 1.0 Liquid paraffin < 1.0 Globally Approved: EU(5%), EHT is susceptible to crystallization that results in loss of product aesthetics, sun protection, appearance, stability Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 97 3 Big Things about Hybrid EHT Hybrid EHT Composition PMMA 70% *** EHT 30% Particle Size 5 um UVB Protection 1. Water dispersible UVB filter 2. Suitable High SPF 3. Ultra Light Texture Hybrid Talc(DM) UV Filters For the Oil Phase No ZnO, PA+++ make up? Hybrid Talc(DM) Core: Talc(70%) Coating: MBBT(20%) + Dimethicone(10%) 1) MBBT for UV protection 2) Dimethicone for hydrophobicity *MBBT: Methylene Bis-benzotrizolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol Composition MBBT* DIMETHICONE TALC 20 % 10 % 70 % Particle Size 11um UVA & UVB Protection for make-ups Broad UVA & UVB protection Because of Bulky chemical structure, MBBT is neither oil soluble nor water soluble MBBT feels extremely chalky Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 100 Hybrid TALC(DM) for PA++ & PA+++ In vivo tested @ SUNJIN W/S Foundation No. @15% of Talc(DM) In vivo PA7.0 = 7.0/15% = 0.46 PA/1% @25% of Talc(DM) In vivo PA8.0 = 8.0/25% = 0.32 PA/1% A B C Trade Name #1 #2 1 Hybrid Talc (DM) 15.0 25.0 2 SUNTITAN-LL 5.0 5.0 3 SH219-AS 2.0 2.0 4 Iron Oxides 1.3 1.3 7 Parsol MCX 6.0 6.0 8 Emollients 21.2 21.2 16 D.I-Water 34.5 39.5 In vivo SPF 30 35 In vivo PA 7.0(++) 8.0(+++) Without ZnO, 25% Hybrid Talc(DM) provides PA+++ 15% Hybrid Talc(DM) provides PA++ Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 101 Formulation: Formulation Tip Broad UVA & UVB Protection for make-ups PA+++ can be achieved Examples Mousse Foundation, go page 90 ZnO Free BB Cream with SPF50 PA+++, page 130, 132 ZnO Free Sun Pact with SPF50 PA+++, page 135 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 102 Zinc Oxide Powder & Dispersion Nano & Non-Nano Zinc Oxides, for UVA protection Surface treatment Crystal size (nm) SUNZNO-NAS Alkyl Silane 40 19~23 AS coated ZnO, Counter type of product “Z” SUNZNO-NCO Hydrogen Dimethicone 35 21~28 The most compatible with Silicone Oils The lowest viscosity of ZnO dispersion SUNZNO-AS Alkyl Silane 80 10~15 Standard N o n SUNZNO none 150 n.a. Non-Nano, ECOCERT for O/W sun care N a n o SUNZNO-SA Stearic Acid 150 n.a. Non-Nano, ECOCERT for W/O sun care N a n o Surface area (m2/g) Remarks SUNZnO-SA X 100,000 ZnO 95% Stearic Acid 5% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 104 Zinc Oxide Dispersion Overview ZD60-AB SUNCLEAR -Z60CO ZD60-BOS ECOCLEAR -Z50 Alkyl Benzoate D5 Butyl Octyl Salicylate Dicaprylyl Carbonate Net ZnO % 57% 57% 57% 47% ZnO coating Hydrogen Dimethicone Hydrogen Dimethicone Hydrogen Dimethicone Stearic Acid Dispersing agent Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid PEG-9 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxy stearate & Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate Non-Nano - - - ECOCERT - - - Carrier Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 105 Zinc Oxide is Safe & Transparent UVA filter Benefits (1) UVA protection (2) Minimized skin irritation (3) Transparent formula “Zinc oxide is a physical block that is not absorbed, so it does not cause any allergic reactions. This is especially important to look for if you have ZnO Only TiO2 Very Transparent Not Transparent sensitive skin or are using sunscreens on a daily basis.” And unlike many chemical sunscreen agents, zinc oxide is never irritating. In fact, it is recognized by the Food and Drug Administration as a Category I skin protectant, meaning that it is safe for compromised or environmentally challenged skin. Zinc oxide is the closest thing to a total "broad-spectrum" sunblock on the market today. It uniformly covers from 290 to 380 nm, thus protecting against UVB and most of the UVA spectrum. Zinc oxide has over a 300-year history of safety, with no known adverse reactions (which is why it is often used to treat babies). Now, in its micro-fine form, it is ideal for use in sunscreens and daily moisturizers. No other sunscreen ingredient provides broader protection. Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 106 FAQ about Zinc Oxide Questions ZnO with OMC 30.0 30.0 SPF 24.3 25.0 20.0 15.0 synergy with OMC. Thus the SPF of 3% ZnO and 5% OMC would be comparable to the SPF of 3% TiO2 and 5% OMC. 10.0 6.5 6.5 OMC 5% SUNZNO -NAS 3% 25.0 22.5 OMC NAS 5% + 3% Although ZnO would have lower SPF than TiO2 by themselves, ZnO shows greater SPF 7.5 boost when used together with OMC 8.5 15.0 4.2 5.0 SPF 20.0 SPF13.6 Boost 4.2 Q1. SPF is the half of TiO2 A. Yes it is. But ZnO has great TiO2 with OMC compared to TiO2 with OMC. 8.5 10.0 6.5 Zinc Oxide has higher SPF boost when used together with OMC as compared to TiO2 5.0 6.5 6.5 OMC 5% TiO2 3% OMC TiO2 5% + 3% Q2. Not stable in O/W formula A. Generally ZnO is considered not stable in O/W formulation. However, if zinc oxide is well surface treated, almost there is no problem. Q3. Price too expensive as compared to TiO2 A common caution in formulating a ZnO-containing product is to avoid or to minimize the use of anionic emulsifier or thickener such as carbomers At pH values < 6, the solubility of zinc oxide increase and migration from the oil phase to water phase observed For this reason, ZnO is usually incorporated into the oil phase of the formulation. Moreover these problems can be minimized or eliminated by various means. Use of an optimized predispersion maintains the ZnO in a finely dispersed form in the oil phase. In W/O emulsions, such dispersion techniques are sufficient to eliminate migration and efficacy of ZnO. ZnO can also be coated with hydrophobic materials in order to reduce migration As SUNJIN chemical applies one step coating process for surface treated Zinc Oxide, zinc oxides from SUNJIN are very price competitive. SUNJIN tries to match the price level of Zinc Oxide comparable to the price of microfine TiO2 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 107 Formula Book Evaluation Criteria How to evaluate formulation? Evaluation SPF 1. In vivo SPF & PA PA 2. SPF/UVA & Critical Wavelength for UVA Protection 3. Draw down White Index for Transparency 4. Sensory Index SPF/UVA Critical Wavelength White Index Sensory Index Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 109 Transparency & Sensory Test 3. Transparency 12.5㎛ draw down By Draw Down Bar White Index: 25.7 color meter NIPPON DENSHOKU COLOR METER ZE 2000 The Higher White index, the less transparent White Index By Draw Down 4. Sensory Panel Test 5: 4: 3: 2: 1: Excellent Good Fair OK Bad Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 110 Evaluation Results BIOTHERM HOMME_UV DEFENSE ULTRA LIGHT TEXTURE O/W SPF50 PA+++ SPF:54 PA:+++ SPF/PA=1.69 CW=374.1 W=17.9 S=5.0 SHISEIDO ANESSA SHAKING SUN MILK LOTION Reference W/S SPF50 PA+++ L’OREAL_SOLAR EXPERTISE SENSITIVE O/W SPF50 W=31.9 S =3.5 EOCERT Melvita Sun Cream O/W SPF 15 W=37.01 S=2.5 DM Baby Love Mineral Sunscreen O/W SPF 50 SPF:42 PA:++ SPF/PA=1.42 CW=370.3 W=20.9 W = 20.92 S=5.0 W=56.2 S=2.5 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 111 ECOCERT Sun Care O/W SPF50 PA+++ W/O SPF50 PA+++ ECOCERT O/W SPF50 PA+++ SJF-1210-O/W ECOCERT SUN CREAM SPF 50 PA +++-ver1.0 Evaluation Part SPF 50 PA +++(8.2) SPF/UVA = 50/32 = 1.56 Critical Wavelength 381nm White Index 50.2 Sensory Index 3.0 White Index 50.2 is actually quite for ECOCERT SPF50 PA+++ formula This level of transparency achieved by usage of ECOCERT TiO2 dispersion A B C Trade Name Supplier D.I. Water % INCI Name 35.0 Aqua 10.0 Glycerin Organic refined glycerin Cremer Care Cetiol CC COGNIS 8.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate MCT COGNIS 3.0 Caprylic Capric Triglyceride Olivem 1000 COGNIS 4.0 Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate SFT85-CC SUNJIN CHEMICAL 40.0 TiO2/Silica/Jojoba Esters/Dicaprylyl Carbonate/Polyhydroxy Stearic acid Have you ever seen ECOCERT SPF50, PA+++ O/W Sun Care? Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 113 ECOCERT W/O SPF50 PA+++ SJF-1204-ECOCERT SUN CREAM-W/O-ver1.0 Evaluation SPF PA SPF/UVA Critical Wavelength White Index Sensory Index Part 50 A +++ 50/32 =1.56 B 381nm 60.2 2.5 C Trade Name Supplier INCI Name T-80SA SUNJIN CHEMICAL 25.0 SUNSIL-130 SUNJIN CHEMICAL 2.0 Cetiol CC BASF 16.5 LAMEFORM TGI BASF 3.0 Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate DEHYMULS PGPH BASF 3.5 Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate 39.0 D.I-Water NaCl If you use ECOCERT TiO2 dispersion rather than direct usage of TiO2 powder(i.e. T-80SA), the level of transparency could be improved % TiO2 / SiO2 / Stearic Acid Silica Dicaprylyl Carbonate Aqua 1.0 Sodium Chloride Organic Refined Glycerine CREMER CARE 5.0 Glycerin 1,3-BG KOKYU ALCOHOL 5.0 Butylene glycol Cetiol CC provides less Greasy Matte appearance and Good Spread than MCT(Medium Chain Triglyceride) oil Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 114 ECOCERT Sun Care Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 115 Chemical Filter Free Zinc Oxide Only Sun Care SJF-1005-ZnO Evaluation Only Sunscreen-W/O-ver1.0 Ingredients % SPF 30 D.I. Water 38.0 PA ++(6.0) NaCl 0.5 SPF/UVA = 30/20.3 = 1.48 1.3-BG 2.0 Critical Wavelength 374.6nm Glycerin 98% 3.0 Phenoxy ethanol 0.5 White Index 31.9 Salacos 99 6.0 Sensory Index 3.5 Abil EM-90 3.0 KSG-16 3.0 SUNZNO-NCO 20% provides SPF 30 KF-995 20.0 Unit SPF = 30/20% = ISOLAN GI 34 1.0 Bentone 38 VCG 1.0 SUNZnO-NCO 20.0 SUNZNO-NCO 20% provides PA 6.0 SUNPMMACOCO170 2.0 Unit PA = 6.0/20% = A B C 1.5 SPF/% 0.3 PA/% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 117 Chemical Filter Free, SPF50 PA+++ SJF-1115-High SPF Chemical Filter Free Sun Cream-W/O-ver1.0 Evaluation Phase Ingredients % INCI Name SPF 50 Water 29.3 Aqua PA +++(8.0) NaCl 1.0 Sodium chloride SPF/UVA =50/30.4 =1.65 1.3 BG 5.0 Butylene glycol Phenoxy Ethanol 0.5 Phenoxy Ethanol Allantoin 0.2 Allantoin Cetiol CC 10.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate ZD60-BOS 30.0 Zinc Oxide (55%) & Hydrogen Dimethicone & Butyl Octyl Salicylate & POLYHYDROXY STEARIC ACID TPD40-AB 15.0 Titanium dioxide (35%) & Al2O3 & C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate & Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid & Aluminium Stearate SUNSIL-Tin50 3.0 Titanium dioxide (40%) & Silica KSG 16 2.0 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer ABIL EM90 2.0 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone KF-6017 2.0 PEG-10 Dimethicone Critical Wavelength 376.6nm White Index 34.8 Sensory Index 3.5 A B Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 118 Chemical Filter Free, SPF50 PA+++ SJF-1113-High SPF Chemical Filter Free Sun Cream-W/O-ver1.0 Evaluation Phase Ingredients % INCI Name SPF(in vivo) 57 Water 30.3 Aqua PA(in vivo) +++(8.0) 15.0 SPF/UVA =57/30.4 =1.87 SUNCLEART40AQX Titanium dioxide (32%) & Al(OH)3 & stearic acid & Disodium steary Sulfosuccinamate & Water SUNSIL-Tin50 3.0 Titanium dioxide (40%) & Silica 1.3 BG 5.0 Butylene glycol Phenoxy Ethanol 0.5 Phenoxy Ethanol Allantoin 0.2 Allantoin Cetiol CC 10.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate ZD60-BOS 30.0 Zinc Oxide (55%) & Hydrogen Dimethicone & Butyl Octyl Salicylate & POLYHYDROXY STEARIC ACID KSG 16 2.0 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer ABIL EM90 2.0 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone KF-6017 2.0 PEG-10 Dimethicone Critical Wavelength 374nm White Index 37.4 Sensory Index 3.5 A B Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 119 SPF50 PA+++ Ultra Transparency = White Index <20 Ultra Light Texture = Sensory Index 5.0 O/W SPF50 PA+++ Evaluation Part SJF1212 ver1.0 Product Name Ingredients % Water 1% Carbomer Aqua Carbomer 32.4 20.0 1.3 BG Butylene glycol 3.0 Glycerin Glycerin 1.5 DC2501 WAX Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane 1.0 Phenoxy Ethanol Phenoxy Ethanol 0.8 19.6 Disodium EDTA Disodium EDTA 0.2 5.0 DC 345 Cyclomethicone 4.5 PARSOL MCX Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 6.5 OC Octocrylene 1.0 Parsol EHS BMDBM Parsol HMS Ethylhexyl Salicylate Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Homosalate 4.5 1.7 4.0 VEGE WAX 70 Hydrogenated Vegetable oil 1.0 KALCOHOL 6870 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 Avobenzone(BMDBM) ARACEL 165 PEG-100 Stearate & Glyceryl Stearate 2.0 1.7% in oil phase Tween 60 Polysorbate 60 0.7 + Tocopheryl acetate Tocopheryl acetate 0.3 TEA Triethanolamine 0.2 SEPIPLUS 400 Polyacrylate-13 / Polyisobutene / Polysorbate 0.5 SUNSIL-Tin50 Silica / TiO2 2.0 Hybrid AB Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane & Polymethyl Methacrylate 6.0 Fragrance Fragrance 0.2 Ethanol (98%) Ethanol 5.0 SPF 52 PA +++ SPF/UVA =52/40 =1.25 Critical Wavelength 383.6 White Index Sensory Index Chemical Filter Only No TiO2 No ZnO Extremely Transparent Hybrid AB 6% in water phase A B C D E Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 121 W/S SPF50, PA+++ Shaking Sun Milk Lotion SJF-1004-D5 Transparent Shaking Sun Milk Lotion-W/S-ver2.0 Evaluation Phase SPF 52 PA +++ SPF/UVA =52/31.4 =1.65 Critical Wavelength 370.8nm White Index 23.1 Sensory Index • • • • • • • A 5.0 Extremely Transparent(White index: 23.1) Ultra Light Texture UVA protection by ZnO(12%) & Chemical Filters Silky smooth texture and dries to touch. No oily feeling when you apply to face. Low viscosity, Transparent & Good water resistance by Polymethylsilsesquioxane B C D Ingredients % D.I. Water 21.0 NaCl 0.4 1.3 BG 2.0 Phenoxy Ethanol 0.5 KF 995 20.6 Tegosoft DEC 2.0 PARSOL MCX 6.5 PARSOL EHS 4.0 PARSOL 340 1.0 KF-6028 2.0 Uvinul A PLUS 2.5 SilForm Flexible resin 4.5 TPD40-AB 5.0 SUNCLEAR-Z60CO 19.0 SUNSIL-Tin50 2.0 SUNPMMACOCO170 1.0 Ethanol (98%) 6.0 Formulation Tip 1. Too much strong film forming? Hard to remove by soap? Reduce SiliForm Flexible resin 2. You don’t want “shaking type”? Remove Ethanol 3. You want “Sun Cream” not Sun Lotion? Add Bentone 0.2 ~ 0.5% Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 122 Sun Protect Gel & Sun Spray Remarkable “Daily Sun Protect Gel” “It’s not sticky at all so after like 3 minutes I totally forget that I am even wearing sunscreen!” See? Can't see? Exactly! No shine, No white casts, No oiliness, No stickiness, nothing! Once the white gel is spread on the skin, it becomes transparent very quickly and practically feels like nothing at all except for a gentle cooling sensation The gel is very lightweight and easy to spread.... The sunscreen left no sticky feeling or even white casts that many sun screens usually would. Fresh translucent gel is light and spreads easily on skin. Dries quickly and does not leave and uncomfortable feeling. This is definitely an ideal sunscreen for makeup wearers or peeps with really oily skin or just very afraid of oiliness and stickiness Copyright © 2010by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 124 Formula from SUNJIN SJF-1214-SUN PROTECT GEL-ver1.0 Evaluation Trade Name SPF 35 PA ++(7.0) SPF/UVA = 35/29.6 = 1.2 Critical Wavelength 373nm White Index 20.0 Sensory Index 5.0 A B C D INCI Name % PARSOL EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.0 PARSOL 340 Octocrylene 3.0 PARSOL MCX Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate 7.5 Tween 60 Polysorbate 60 0.7 SUNPMMA-P Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer 1.0 SUNSIL-Tin50 (SUNJIN) Titanium Dioxide & Silica 2.0 HYBRID AB (SUNJIN) Polymethyl Methacrylate / Avobenzone 6.0 1,3-B.G. 1,3-Butylene Glycol 11.0 D.I. WATER Water 63.1 ARISTIFLEX AVC Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer 0.6 FRAGRANCE Fragrance 0.1 6% Hybrid AB provides PA++ Liquid Chemical Filter= 5.0% +3.0% +7.5% =15.5% Copyright © 2010by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 125 Sun Spray SJF-0909-SUN MIST-ver1.0 Evaluation No. SPF 20.9 PA ++(5.0) SPF/UVA =20.9/13.9 =1.5 Critical Wavelength 370nm White Index 18.0 Sensory Index 5.0 A B INCI Name % 1 Water Water 44.0 2 1,3 – BG Butylene glycol 2.0 3 Phenoxy ethanol Phenoxy ethanol 0.5 4 ININ Isononyl Isononanoate 3.0 5 TWEEN 60 Polysorbate 60 1.0 6 Rheodol MS 165 Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate 0.5 7 Parsol MCX Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 7.0 8 Uvinul-T150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 3.0 9 Parsol EHS Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3.0 10 Hybrid AB PMMA/Avobenzone 5.0 11 SUNPMMA COCO170 Methyl Methacrylate Cross polymer 1.0 12 Ethanol Ethanol 30.0 C D Trade Name 5% Hybrid AB provides PA 5.0 (++) Copyright © 2010by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 126 BB & CC Cream BB Cream & CC Cream CC cream, also known as Color Control cream, is an improved and refined blemish balm cream created and developed in Korea. BB (Blemish Balm) cream was originally formulated in Germany and has in recent years gained a huge following in Asia and is quickly making its way to Europe and the USA for its skin-regenerating properties. CC cream is now also widely used in Asia to provide natural-looking skin coverage. While BB cream was manufactured primarily as a skincare product, CC cream was developed to retain all the skincare benefits of BB cream with added nourishing ingredients and the additional aim to provide more effective skin coverage. CC cream is the newest miracle beauty product available and was formulated with technology originating in industry-leader Japan and further developed in Korea. The benefits of CC cream is said to include high SPF rating to ensure protection from damaging UVA and UVB rays. It also treats and covers uneven skin tones more effectively and blends with skin tone better than BB Creams that sometimes appear too light on certain skin tones. A lighter texture than that of BB cream also allows for smoother application with a less oily finish, while remaining extremely nourishing to the skin. The end effect is said to be surprisingly natural and flawlessly radiant complexion than that of BB cream Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 128 How to make SPF50, PA+++ BB Cream? • Normally BB cream formulation is made up of high portion of powders for coverage and silicone oils for light feel • Often there may be not be enough polar emollients to solubilize BEMT or BMDBM • BB Cream, SPF50 & PA+++ is fashion • To achieve PA+++, limited options • Only few chemical UVA filters & Zinc Oxide • Chemical UVA filters(i.e. avobenzone or BEMT) are known for poor compatibility with silicone • However, BB Cream is almost always silicone based formula • Zinc Oxide is not welcomed in EU these days • How to make BB Cream with PA+++? Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 129 SPF50, PA+++ BB Cream SJF-1209- Evaluation Part SPF 50 PA +++ SPF/UVA 50/23.93 = 2.09 Critical Wavelength 372.7nm Sensory Index 4.0 A B Chemical UVA filters(i.e. avobenzone or BEMT) are known for poor compatibility with silicone 25% of SFT85-CC provided PA+++ in silicone based BB cream formula C D ZnO Free, Non Nano BB Cream SPF 50, PA+++-W/O-ver1.0 Trade Name % INCI Name SNOWTITAN-LL 5.00 TiO2 / Silica / Lauroyl Lysine SUNPMMA COCO170 2.00 Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer SUNIOY-SA 0.90 Iron Oxide Yellow / Stearic Acid SUNIOR-SA 0.35 Iron Oxide Red / Stearic Acid SUNIOB-SA 0.10 Iron Oxide Black / Stearic Acid SFT85-CC 25.00 TiO2 / Silica / Jojoba Ester / Dicaprylyl Carbonate / Polyhydroxystearic Acid TEGOSOFT DEC 3.00 Diethylhexyl Carbonate Bentone 38 V CG 0.20 Quaternium-18 Hectorite DC 345 8.00 Cyclomethicone Parsol MCX 7.50 Ethylhexyl Methoxy Cinnamate ABIL EM 90 2.50 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone KSG 16 4.00 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer CETIOL CC 3.00 Dicaprylyl Carbonate SALACOS 99 2.00 Isononyl Isononanoate KF6017 4.00 PEG-10 Dimethicone D.I. WATER 24.55 Water 1,3-BG 7.00 Butylene Glycol NaCl 1.00 Sodium Chloride PHENOXY ETHANOL 0.50 Phenoxyehanol FRAGRANCE 0.20 Fragrance Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 130 How to use Hybrid Talc(DM): PA+++ BB Cream ZnO Free BB Cream-ver1.0 SJF-1117Evaluation Phase Trade Name % INCI Name SPF 35 Hybrid Talc(DM) 25.0 Talc / MBBT / Dimethicone PA +++ SUNTITAN-LL 5.0 Titanium Dioxide / Lauroyl Lysine SPF/UVA =35/11.9 =2.95 SUNSIL-Tin50AS 2.0 Titanium Dioxide / Silica / Alkyl Silane SUNIOY-AS 0.9 Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Yellow Critical Wavelength 380nm SUNIOR-AS 0.3 Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Red SUNIOB-AS 0.1 Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Block Sensory Index 4.0 TEGOSOFT DEC 3.0 DiethylhexylCarbonate Bentone 38 VCG 0.2 Quaternium-18 Hectorite DC 345 5.0 Cyclomethicone Parsol MCX 6.0 Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate ABIL EM 90 2.0 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone KSG 16 4.0 Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer CETIOL CC 2.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate SALACOS 99 2.0 Isononyl Isononanoate KF 6017 3.0 PEG-10 Dimethicone D.I-Water 31.0 Water 1,3-BG 7.0 Butylene Glycol NaCl 1.0 Sodium Chloride Phenoxy Ethanol 0.3 Phenoxy Ethanol Fragrance 0.2 Fragrance A B C D Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 131 O/W BB Cream SJF-1301-O/W BB Cream SPF25 PA++- ver1.0 Part Evaluation SPF 25 PA ++ SPF/UVA n.a. Critical Wavelength n.a. Sensory Index 3.5 A B C D E F Trade Name % INCI Name Keltrol F 0.04 Xanthan Gum Glycerin 1.00 Glycerin D.I-Water 20.00 Aqua Veegum R 1.00 Magnesium Aluminium Silicate T80 10.00 TiO2/Silica IOY-AS 0.90 Iron Oxide Yellow / Triethoxy caprylylsilane IOR-AS 0.25 Iron Oxide Red / Triethoxy caprylylsilane IOB-AS 0.05 Iron Oxide Black / Triethoxy caprylylsilane 1,3-BG 15.00 Butylene Glycol D.I-Water 28.21 Aqua MP 0.20 Methylparaben TEA 1.00 Triethanolamine Arlacel 165 1.50 GLYCERYL STEARATE/ PEG-100 STEARATE CEH 4.00 Cethylethylhexanoate Salacos 99 3.00 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE Parsol MCX 6.00 ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE DC 200/10cs 0.30 DIMETHICONE Finsolv TN 2.00 Caprylic /Capric Triglyceride GMS 105 3.00 Glyceryl Stearate Kalcol 6870 1.00 CETYL ALCOHOL Stearic Acid 2.00 Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Phenoxyethanol Fragrance 0.05 Fragrance Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 132 CC(Color Control) Cream SJF-1211-Non nano Color Control Cream SPF 30, PA++-W/O-ver1.0 Evaluation Part Supplier % INCI Name T-80 AS SUNJIN CHEMICAL 5.00 TiO2 / Silica / Triethoxy caprylyl silane ++ SNOWTITAN-LL SUNJIN CHEMICAL 8.00 TiO2 / Silica / Lauroyl Lysine SPF/UVA n.a. SUNPMMA COCO170 SUNJIN CHEMICAL 3.00 Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer Critical Wavelength n.a. SUNIOY-SA 0.90 Iron Oxide Yellow / Stearic Acid SUNIOR-SA 0.35 Iron Oxide Red / Stearic Acid Sensory Index n.a. SUNIOB-SA 0.10 Iron Oxide Black / Stearic Acid SPF 30 PA A Trade Name B C DC 345 Dow Corning 8.00 Cyclomethicone Parsol MCX DSM 6.00 Ethylhexyl Methoxy Cinnamate ABIL EM 90 Evonic 3.00 Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone KSG 16 ShinEtsu 7.00 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crsspolymer CETIOL CC BASF 7.00 Dicaprylyl Carbonate SALACOS 99 Nisshin Oillio 5.00 Isononyl Isononanoate KF6017 ShinEtsu 3.00 PEG-10 Dimethicone D.I. WATER E Water 7.00 Butylene Glycol NaCl 1.00 Sodium Chloride D.I. WATER 3.00 Water Arbutin 0.20 Arbutin Adenosine 0.02 Adenosine 0.50 Phenoxyehanol 0.20 Fragrance 1,3-BG D 31.73 PHENOXY ETHANOL FRAGRANCE Kokyu Alcohol SASOL Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 133 Pressed Powder ZnO Free SPF50 PA+++ SUN PACT SJF-1118 Evaluation Phase ZnO Free Transparent Powdery Sun Pact-ver2.0 Trade Name % INCI Name SPF 50 SUNTALC-LL 26.25 Talc / Lauroyl Lysine PA +++ SUNMICA-LL 15.00 Mica / Lauroyl Lysine SPF/UVA =50/19.1 =2.62 SUNPMMA-X 3.00 Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer Critical Wavelength 376.8nm Hybrid Talc(DM) 25.00 Talc / MBBT / Dimethicone T-80LL 8.00 TiO2 / Silica / Lauroyl Lysine Sensory Index 3.5 SUNTITAN-LL 5.00 TiO2 / Lauroyl Lysine FP-OMC 5.00 Methyl methacrylate Crosspolymer & Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate SUNSIL-TIN50 5.00 Silica / Titanium dioxide SUNIOR-AS 0.04 Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Red SUNIOY-AS 0.09 Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Yellow SUNIOB-AS 0.02 Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Black Parsol MCX 5.00 Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate DC 200F/100cs 2.00 Dimethicone Phenoxyethanol 0.50 Phenoxyethanol Fragrance 0.10 Fragrance A B Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 135 Powdery Sun Block SJF-1008-Transparent Powdery Sun Block-ver2.0 Evaluation Phase Ingredients SPF 50 Magnesium PA +++ Myristate SPF/UVA =50/17.9 =2.8 Critical Wavelength 380.3nm Sensory Index 4.0 12% of T-80LL alone can also give you PA+++ A B % 3.0 SUNMICA-LL 13.0 SUNSERI-LL(P) 5.0 SUNTALC-LL 44.1 T-80LL 10.0 FP-OMC 4.0 SUNZnO-NCO 5.0 SNOWTITAN-LL 5.0 Parsol MCX 5.0 DC200 F100 5.5 Phenoxyl Ethanol 0.2 Fragrance 0.2 Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 136 Disclaimer While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in good faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for your guidance only. Because many factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make tests to determine the suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use. NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE MADE REGARDING PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION SET FORTH, OR THAT THE PRODUCTS, DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS. IN NO CASE SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE. Summary 6 Nano TiO2 TX-80: TiO2 & silica & dimethicone 17 Non Nano TiO2 T-80: Revolutionary Non Nano TiO2 40 TiO2 Dispersions Non Nano TiO2 Dispersion ECOCERT TiO2 Dispersion Nano TiO2 Dispersion Aqueous TiO2 Dispersion 67 Hybrid PMMA Beads with Avobenzone, BEMT, EHT inside Hybrid AB: PMMA 70% & Avobenzone 30% Hybrid S: PMMA 70% & BEMT 30% Hybrid EHT: PMMA 70% & EHT 30% 107 Formula Book ECOCERT Sun Care Chemical Filter Free Sun Care SPF50, PA+++ O/W SPF50, PA+++ W/O 59 Silica Bead with TiO2 inside Sun Protect Gel SUNSIL Tin50: Ultra Light Texture & Ultimate Transparency BB & CC Cream Sun Spray Pressed Powder with Sun Protection 102 Zinc Oxide Global Distributors’ List ASIA & Pacific AMERICA China Indonesia / PT. MEGASETIA AGUNG Poland USA TIANJIN XIANGUANG CHEMICAL Jinyu Road, Xiditou Beichen District, Tianjin Tel : +86-22-8684-5637 E-mail : [email protected] Mobile: +86-1370-213-6240 Contact : Sheng-Fan Piao KIMIA JI. 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