T-80 - In-cosmetics

Transcription

T-80 - In-cosmetics
Cosmetic Catalogs from SUNJIN,
2013
Part1. UV filters for Sun Care
Part2. Micro Beads
ECOCERT
Pigments
From the Editor
SUNJIN,
The innovative TiO2 supplier
With this edition, we celebrate introduction of new and innovative TiO2
for sun protection.
In case you’re wondering, we’re proud to show
TX-80, 30nm TiO2 with silica & dimethicone coating
T-80, non-nano TiO2 with silica & JJ or SF or LL or SA or AS coating
SUNSIL Tin50, TiO2 in Silica Bead for ultra light texture
All of these products are something unique and innovative. As an
institution, SUNJIN believes that we’re agile minds with a unique
capacity to initiate and innovate. We’re ready to be your partners for
your success.
Sung-HO LEE
Editor in Chief
Head of R&D
CEO of SUNJIN
Content
6 Nano TiO2
TX-80: TiO2 & silica & dimethicone
17
Non Nano TiO2
T-80: Revolutionary Non Nano TiO2
40 TiO2 Dispersions
Non Nano TiO2 Dispersion
ECOCERT TiO2 Dispersion
Nano TiO2 Dispersion
Aqueous TiO2 Dispersion
67 Hybrid PMMA Beads with
Avobenzone, BEMT, EHT inside
Hybrid AB: PMMA 70% & Avobenzone 30%
Hybrid S:
PMMA 70% & BEMT 30%
Hybrid EHT: PMMA 70% & EHT 30%
107 Formula Book
ECOCERT Sun Care
Chemical Filter Free Sun Care
SPF50, PA+++ O/W
SPF50, PA+++ W/O
59 Silica Bead with TiO2 inside
Sun Protect Gel
SUNSIL Tin50: Ultra Light Texture &
Ultimate Transparency
BB & CC Cream
Sun Spray
Pressed Powder with Sun Protection
102 Zinc Oxide
In vivo test Capability @SUNJIN
In vitro SPF & PA test @ SUNJIN
In vivo SPF & PA test @ SUNJIN
Optometrics 290
SPF Testing 601-300W Multiport UV Solar Simulator
Installed at SUNJIN in 2001
Installed at SUNJIN in 2009
Sample Report from SUNJIN
All Formulas from SUNJIN,
With in vivo
test results
TX-80
Nano TiO
2
In combination with
Avobenzone
TX-80
TEM
New Release in 2013!
30nm
TiO2
Silica
Dimethicone
TX-80
TiO2
SiO2
Dimethicone
SEM
80%
15%
5%
“Alumina Free”
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
6
Why TX-80?
3 Benefits:
1. In combination with Avobenzone
(BMDBM) i.e. Alumina Free
2. Easy to be dispersed
3. High SPF
Benefit #1
1. Alumina Free  In combination
with Avobenzone (BMDBM)
BMDBM forms a complex
with Al3+ salts from TiO2
coatings
2. Easy to be dispersed
3. High SPF
Aluminum oxide is one of
the most common coating
material for TiO2.
The amount of BMDBM
decreases
 weakening of the UVA
protection
1. Avobenzone compatibility test
Tested TiO2
#1:
Company “I”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid,
Dimethicone
Tested Formula: W/O SUN CREAM
Part Trade Name
5 kinds of
TiO2 tested
%
8.00
Parsol 1789
3.00
OMC
7.50
OS
5.00
OC
2.40
#3
Company “K”
Product “M”
TiO2, Silica, Methicone
ABIL EM90
2.00
ABIL WE09
3.00
Finsolv TN
6.00
#4
Company “D”
Product “P”
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
Salacos 99
3.00
CETIOL CC
3.00
D.I-Water
49.60
#2
Company “T”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid
#5
Company: SUNJIN
Product: TX-80
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
A
B
NaCl
1.00
1,3-BG
6.00
Phenoxyethanol
0.50
60℃, 4weeks
25℃, 4weeks
Analyzed by
Liquid Chromatography
Analysis Condition
1. Model : Agilent 1200 HPLC
2. Column : ZORBAX Eclipse XDS-C18
250×4.6mm I.D., 5um
3. Guard Column : ZORBAX Eclipse XDSC18 12.5×4.6mm I.D., 5um
4. Mobile Phase : 0.1% TFA in water :
MeOH = 10 : 90
5. Detector : UV 358nm
6. Column over Temp. : 35℃
7. Flow rate : 0.6ml/min
8. Injection volume : 1ul
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
9
Combination Test Result
Test Results at 20℃
#1:
Company “I”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid,
Dimethicone
#2
Company “T”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid
Test Results at 60℃
Avobenzone %
Tested TiO2
#4
TX-80
#3
#4
#3
TX-80
#2
#1
#3
Company “K”
Product “M”
TiO2, Silica, Methicone
#2
#4
Company “D”
Product “P”
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
#5
Company: SUNJIN
Product: TX-80
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
#1
week
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
week 0
2.13
2.11
2.75
2.71
2.84
week 1
1.72
1.67
2.64
2.65
week 2
1.51
1.56
2.57
week 3
1.44
1.52
week 4
1.44
1.43
week
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
week 0
2.13
2.11
2.75
2.71
2.84
2.61
week 1
0.47
0.6
2.65
2.68
2.64
2.63
2.55
week 2
0.27
0.5
2.54
2.62
2.63
2.54
2.60
2.58
week 3
0.26
0.48
2.56
2.66
2.57
2.46
2.58
2.53
week 4
0.26
0.42
2.49
2.59
2.43
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
10
Benefit #2
1. In combination with Avobenzone
(BMDBM) i.e. Alumina Free
2. Easy to be dispersed
3. High SPF
2. Dispersibility Test Result
Tested TiO2
#1:
Company “I”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid,
Dimethicone
#2
Company “T”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid
#3
Company “K”
Product “M”
TiO2, Silica, Methicone
#4
Company “D”
Product “P”
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
#5
Company: SUNJIN
Product: TiO2, Silica,
Dimethicone
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Sun Flower Oil
Cyclomethicone
Liquid Paraffin
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
12
Benefit #3
1. In combination with Avobenzone
(BMDBM) i.e. Alumina Free
2. Easy to be dispersed
3. High SPF
High SPF
Tested TiO2
#1:
Company “I”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid,
Dimethicone
Tested Formula: W/O SUN CREAM
Part Trade Name
5 kinds of
TiO2 tested
#2
Company “T”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid
%
8.00
Parsol 1789
3.00
OMC
7.50
OS
5.00
OC
2.40
ABIL EM90
Formula
In vivo
SPF
PA
#2
54
8.0
2.00
#4
50
8.6
ABIL WE09
3.00
#5 TX 80
50
9.8
#4
Company “D”
Product “P”
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
Finsolv TN
6.00
Salacos 99
3.00
CETIOL CC
3.00
#5
Company: SUNJIN
Product: TX-80
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
D.I-Water
49.60
#3
Company “K”
Product “M”
TiO2, Silica, Methicone
A
B
NaCl
1.00
1,3-BG
6.00
Phenoxyethanol
0.50
25℃, 1week
SPF Testing 601-300W Multiport UV Solar
Simulator Installed at SUNJIN in 2009
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
14
Transmittance Curve
Tested TiO2
#1:
Company “I”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid,
Dimethicone
#3
Company “K”
Product “M”
TiO2, Silica, Methicone
90
80
70
Transmittance%
#2
Company “T”
Product “M”
TiO2, Alumina, Stearic Acid
100
#1
#2
#3
#4
TX 80
60
50
40
#4
Company “D”
Product “P”
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
30
#5
Company: SUNJIN
Product: TX-80
TiO2, Silica, Dimethicone
10
20
0
290
310
330
350
Wavelength
370
390
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
15
T-80 series
Revolutionary
Non Nano TiO2
PERSONAL CARE
Nov. 2012
Released in 2012.
Published in ‘Personal Care
Magazine’ in Nov. 2012
Sales of T-80 is spiking
worldwide in 2013
T-80 series, Non Nano TiO2
Aggregation
TiO2
TiO2
20~80nm
Silica
Thin layer
Coating
T-80AS
T-80AS
TiO2
SiO2
Alkyl Silane
80%
15%
5%
T-80
T-80
TiO2
SiO2
84%
16%
Nano TiO2 bound
By inorganic silica binder
to from Micro size granule
T-80JJ
or
T-80SF
T-80JJ/SF
TiO2
80%
SiO2
12%
Jojoba Esters 8%
/Sun Flower Ester
T-80LL
T-80LL
TiO2
80%
SiO2
12%
Lauroyl Lysine 8%
T-80SA
T-80SA
TiO2
80%
SiO2
12%
Stearic Acid 8%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
18
TEM of T-80
Silica Thin
layer Coating
Particle Size
D10 : 364nm
D50 : 562nm
D90 : 988nm
Primary
TiO2
T-80
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
19
7 big Things about T-80 series
1. Non Nano
2. UVA/UVB < 3.0
Critical Wavelength > 370nm
3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2
4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO
5. ECOCERT TiO2
6. No Alumina
7. Good Photo-stability
Are you ready?
I’m going to explain the benefits one by one
Benefit #1
1. Non Nano
2. UVA/UVB < 3.0
Critical Wavelength > 370nm
3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2
4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO
5. ECOCERT TiO2
6. No Alumina
7. Good Photo-stability
Particle Size Analysis by Dynamic Light Scattering
Particle Size
D10 : 364nm
D50 : 562nm
D90 : 988nm
T-80
Test Equipment
Maker: Malvern
Model: Master sizer 2000
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
22
SEM of T-80
T-80
Test Equipment
Maker: HITACHI
Model: S-4700
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
23
Specific Surface Area Measurement
BET = 46.9m2/g
T-80
Test Equipment
Maker: Micrometrics
Model: ASAP 2020
THE EUROPEAN COMMISSION HAS ADOPTED THIS RECOMMENDATION(Oct. 2011):
5. Where technically feasible and requested in specific legislation, compliance with
the definition in point 2 may be determined on the basis of the specific surface area
by volume. A material should be considered as falling under the definition in point 2
where the specific surface area by volume of the material is greater than 60
m2/cm3. However, a material which, based on its number size distribution, is a
nanomaterial should be considered as complying with the definition in point 2 even
if the material has a specific surface area lower than 60 m2/cm3.
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
24
OK…it’s non-nano…but is it strong enough?
We tried to check whether it’s still
held together after strong shear
force of emulsion process
We tested T-80 series together with
the other nano TiO2 & nano ZnO
Non nano & Not Breakable by shear force of emulsion process
NANO Particle detection test results
from RAW Material
T-80JJ
NANO Particle detection test results
from finished formula
T-80JJ
10% containing
W/O formula
2500rpm
30min
35nm ZnO
10% containing
W/O formula
35nm ZnO
2500rpm
30min
20nm TiO2
20nm TiO2
10% containing
W/O formula
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
26
Benefit #2, #3, #4
1. Non Nano
2. UVA/UVB < 3.0
Critical Wavelength > 370nm
3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2
4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO
5. ECOCERT TiO2
6. No Alumina
EU Commission Guidelines
1. UVA protection factor
must be at least 1/3 of
claimed SPF if
claimed(i.e. labeled)
SPF = 30, in vivo
UVAPF > 10, in vitro
2. Critical wavelength
should be over 370nm
7. Good Photo-stability
Tested Samples
15nm TiO2,
Product “M”
TiO2: 82%
Al2O3 & Stearic Acid: 18%
500nm TiO2,
T-80JJ
TiO2: 80%
SiO2 & Jojoba esters: 20%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
28
T-80 Series meet EU UVA Protection Guideline
Test Formula: W/O sun cream
Par
t
A
B
C
7 Big Things about T-80
Trade Name
%
Test Result
in vivo SPF
D.I. WATER
65.0
Natural Extract
5.0
NACL
1.0
CETIOL CC
13.0
in vitro SPF
LAMEFORM TGI
2.0
in vitro UVA PF
DEHYMULS PGPH
2.0
15nm TiO2 vs.
T-80JJ
SUNSIL-150H
10.0
2.0
in vivo UVA PF
SPF/ UVA PF
C.W
15nm TiO2
T-80JJ
28
26
-
6.0
25.77
27.83
8.56
13.79
=28/8.56
=3.27
363.3
#3
#4
=26/13.79
=1.88 ≤ 3.0
379.5 ≥ 370nm
1.Non Nano
2.UVA/UVB < 3.0 Critical
Wavelength > 370nm
Benefit #2
3.UVB protection as good as
15nm TiO2
4.UVA protection better than
40nm ZnO
5.ECOCERT TiO2
6.No Alumina
7.Good Photo-stability
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
29
Transmittances Curve
Transmittance %
15nm TiO2
SPF/UVAPF = 3.27
T-80JJ
SPF/UVAPF = 1.88
Wavelength
Same
level of
UVB protection
Better
UVA protection
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
30
Broad UVA & UVB protection
UVB
In vivo
SPF/%
UVA
In vivo
PA/%
15nm TiO2
2.5
-
40nm ZnO
1.5
0.3
T-80AS
2.6
0.6
T-80JJ
2.5
0.6
T-80LL
2.5
0.6
UVB
protection as
good as
15nm TiO2
UVA
protection
twice better
than 40nm
ZnO
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
31
Why Broad UVA & UVB Protection?
T-80 means less Cost &
More Formulation
Freedom
Primary TiO2 particle
20nm
for
UVB protection
Secondary semi spherical
TiO2 granule for
UVA protection
Benefits
• T-80 series can boost SPF & PA at the same time
• No need to add TiO2 and ZnO separately
• This means less formulation cost and more formulation
freedom
• Moreover, T-80 can be good in combination with
Avobenzone that is of the most economic UVA filter
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
32
Benefit #5, #6
1. Non Nano
2. UVA/UVB < 3.0
Critical Wavelength > 370nm
3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2
4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO
5. ECOCERT TiO2
6. No Alumina
7. Good Photo-stability
Benefit #5, #6
Alumina
Free
means
BMDBM
compatible
BMDBM forms a complex
with Al3+ salts from TiO2
coatings
T-80JJ or T-80SF
ECOCERT
Aluminum oxide is one of
the most common coating
material for TiO2.
The amount of BMDBM
decreases
 weakening of the UVA
protection
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
34
Benefit #7
1. Non Nano
2. UVA/UVB < 3.0
Critical Wavelength > 370nm
3. UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2
4. UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO
5. ECOCERT TiO2
6. No Alumina
7. Good Photo-stability
Photo-Stability
T-80 Series show much
better photo-stability
as compared to other
commercially available
TiO2
Y.I
Y.I
Y.I: Yellow Index
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
36
Customers’ Questions
FAQ…
?
How much T-80 series do
we have to add to get
SPF50?
% Table of T-80 series for SPF
Unit PA of T-80 series
is 0.6
Category
Low
protection
Medium
protection
High
protection
Labelled
sun
protection
factor
Measured
sun
protection
factor
% of T-80
series needed
6
6 – 9.9
2.0
10
10 – 14.9
3.5
15
15 – 19.9
5.5
20
20 – 24.9
7.6
25
25 – 29.9
9.9
30
30 – 49.9
12.4
50
50 – 59.9
25.0
% Needed for PA
4~7% of T-80
needed for PA+
7~14% for
PA++
>14% for
PA+++
Copyright © 2012 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
38
TiO2 Dispersions
We deliver various kinds
of TiO2 dispersions:
1.Non-Nano
2.ECOCERT
3.Nano
4.Aqueous
Overview
Non Nano TiO2 Dispersion
ECOCERT TiO2 Dispersion
Nano TiO2
Dispersion
Aqueous TiO2
Dispersion
SFT85-AB
SFT85-CCTG
SFT85-CC
TPD40-AB
T40AQ
Carrier
Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic Capric
Triglyceride
Dicaprylyl
Carbonate
Alkyl Benzoate
H2O
Solid %
60%
60%
60%
45%
40%
Net TiO2 %
48%
48%
48%
35%
32%
TiO2 coating
Silica /
Triethoxy
caprylyl silane
Silica /
Jojoba Esters
Silica /
Jojoba Esters
Alumina
Hydrated Silica
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid
Disodium stearyl
Sulfosuccinamate

T-80AS USED

T-80JJ USED

T-80JJ USED
-
-



-
-
1.62 ≤ 3.0
377nm
1.58 ≤ 3.0
377nm
1.58 ≤ 3.0
377nm
4.44
364nm
ECOCERT
-


-
-
Alumina Free



-
-
Dispersing agent
Non-Nano
EU UVA Protection
SPF/PFA ≦3.0
C.W. ≧370nm
SFT-85AB
Do you want
Non Nano
but not necessarily
ECOCERT?
SFT-85AB, Nano Free
SFT85-AB
Carrier
Alkyl Benzoate
Solid %
60%
SFT-85AB, Non Nano TiO2
Net TiO2 %
48%
in Alkyl Benzoate has 6 Benefits…
TiO2 coating
Silica /
Triethoxy
caprylyl silane
Dispersing agent
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid
1.Non Nano
2.UVA/UVB < 3.0
Critical Wavelength > 370nm
3.UVB protection as good as 15nm TiO2
Non-Nano
EU UVA Protection
SPF/PFA ≦3.0
C.W. ≧370nm

T-80AS USED

1.62 ≤ 3.0
377nm
ECOCERT
-
Alumina Free

4.UVA protection better than 40nm ZnO
5.No Alumina
6.Transparency
Tested Samples
T-80AS from SUNJIN
used to make SFT-85AB
SFT-85AB: Titanium dioxide & C12-C15 Alkyl
Benzoate & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Triethoxy
caprylyl silane & Silica
Non Nano
No Alumina
SUNJIN
Net TiO2: 48%
Dispersion “X”: Titanium dioxide & C12-C15 Alkyl
Benzoate & Polyhydroxystearic Acid & Stearic Acid &
Alumina
Dispersion “C”: C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Titanium
dioxide & Aluminum Stearate & Polyhydroxystearic
Acid & Alumina
Non Nano
Company “C”
Net TiO2: 48%
Nano
Company “C”
Net TiO2: 35%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
43
Tested Formula & Test Result
20% of Tested Products
@ O/W sun cream
Trade Name
D.I-Water
A
%
50.15
P.G
4.0
Carbopol 940 2%
8.0
Arlacel 60
0.5
Tween 60
2.7
Kalcohol 6870
1.0
TCG-M
8.0
Myristic Acid
2.5
Arlacel 165
2.0
C
TEA
0.2
D
SFT85-AB vs.
Dispersion X vs.
Dispersion C
20.0
Phenoxyethanol
0.8
Fragrance
0.15
B
E
Test Result
SFT85AB
“X”
“C”
in vivo SPF
25
21
16
in vitro SPF
33.29
25.62
10.95
in vitro UVA PF
15.47
15.05
3.6
=25/15.57
=1.62
=21/15.05
=1.40
=16/3
=4.44
377
381
363.3
SPF / UVA PF
C.W
UVA/UVB < 3.0
Critical Wavelength > 370nm
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
44
Transmittances Curve
Transmittance %
Dispersion ”C”
SPF/UVAPF = 4.4
SFT85-AB
SPF/UVAPF = 1.6
Dispersion ”X”
SPF/UVAPF = 1.4
Wavelength
20% of Tested Products @ O/W sun cream
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
45
SFT85-CC & SFT85-CCTG
Do you want
ECOCERT Sun Care
And…not oily
not sticky one?
ECOCERT Dispersion Overview
SFT85-CCTG
SFT85-CC
Carrier
Caprylic Capric
Triglyceride
Dicaprylyl
Carbonate
Solid %
60%
60%
Net TiO2 %
48%
48%
TiO2 coating
Silica /
Jojoba Esters
Silica /
Jojoba Esters
Dispersing agent
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid

T-80JJ USED

T-80JJ USED


1.58 ≤ 3.0
377nm
1.58 ≤ 3.0
377nm
Non-Nano
EU UVA Protection
SPF/PFA ≦3.0
C.W. ≧370nm
Cetiol-CC(Dicaprylyl Carbonate) is an innovative, fast
spreading, dry emollient that can significantly improve the
sensory performance of the final formulation, therefore often
used as a silicone oil alternative. It smoothes the skin,
leaving a velvety sensation, and is highly compatible with
ECOCERT


Alumina Free


many different skin types. Its ability to dissolve crystalline
UV filters and to disperse pigments makes it particularly
suitable for sun care products
TPD40-AB
Do you want Elegant
Sun Care?
-Transparent
-With all the benefits of TiO2
Nano TiO2 in Alkyl Benzoate
TPD40-AB
Carrier
Alkyl Benzoate
Solid %
45%
Net TiO2 %
35%
TiO2 coating
Alumina
Dispersing agent
Polyhydroxy
stearic acid
Benefits
1.Nano TiO2 dispersion with the best
transparency
• Cosmetically elegant – i.e. transparent – sun care and skin
care products can be formulated with all the benefits of TiO2
• TPD40-AB provides better transparency on skin than any
other grade of TiO2 currently available
2.High SPF
3.Incorporated in oil phase to make O/W
Non-Nano
-
EU UVA Protection
-
→ No need to have 2 different kinds
4.44
364nm
of dispersions to make O/W or
SPF/PFA ≦3.0
C.W. ≧370nm
ECOCERT
-
Alumina Free
-
and W/O(W/S) formula
W/O
→ simple inventory management
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
49
1. Transparency
TPD40-AB: C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Titanium
dioxide & Aluminum Stearate & Polyhydroxystearic
Acid & Alumina
Nano
SUNJIN
Net TiO2: 35%
W = 18.17
Dispersion “C”: C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate & Titanium
dioxide & Aluminum Stearate & Polyhydroxystearic
Acid & Alumina
Nano
Company “C”
Net TiO2: 35%
W = 19.16
W: White Index
Higher White index means
less transparency
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
50
2. High SPF by in vivo
Test Formula
TPD40-AB 20% @ O/W sun cream
Part
A
B
C
D
E
Trade Name
%
%
D.I-Water
49.7
49.7
P.G
4.0
4.0
Carbopol 940 2%
8.0
8.0
Arlacel 60
0.5
0.5
Tween 60
2.7
2.7
Kalcohol 6870
1.0
1.0
TCG-M
8.0
8.0
Myristic Acid
2.5
2.5
Arlacel 165
2.0
2.0
TPD40-AB
20.0
-
-
20.0
TEA
0.2
0.2
Sepiplus 400
0.5
0.5
Phenoxyethanol
0.8
0.8
Fragrance
0.15
0.15
In vivo SPF
19
16
Benchmark “C”
Test Result
TPD40-AB
Benchmark “C”
in vivo SPF
19
16
in vitro SPF
15.23
10.95
3.9
3.6
=19/3.9
=4.87
=16/3.6
=4.44
368.5
363.3
in vitro UVA PF
SPF / UVA PF
C.W
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
51
2. High SPF by in vitro test
MPF
TPD40-AB
“C”
Wavelength
20% of Tested Products @ O/W sun cream
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
52
Sunclear T40AQ
Do you want O/W
Sun Care?
TiO2 Aqueous
Dispersion!
TiO2 in water dispersion
T40AQ
Carrier
H2 O
Solid %
40%
Net TiO2 %
32%
TiO2 coating
Hydrated Silica
Benefits
1.Can be incorporated into water phase
Oil based dispersion system can restrict the formulator as the carrier oil
has to be incorporated into the oil phase with TiO2 thus limiting the
Dispersing agent
Disodium stearyl
Sulfosuccinamate
formulator’s choice of oils. T40AQ offer greater formulation flexibility for
O/W systems. This TiO2 water dispersion is ideal for O/W based emulsions
is perfect for sprays
2.Compatible with various thickeners
Non-Nano
-
3.No odor
EU UVA Protection
-
4.Low viscosity
SPF/PFA ≦3.0
C.W. ≧370nm
ECOCERT
-
Alumina Free
-
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
54
1. Why Aqueous Dispersion?
Why do I need
Aqueous dispersion?
When to use?
Chemical filter in oil phase
Physical filter in
Water phase
Chemical filter in oil phase
Physical filter in
Oil
phase
TiO2
Chemical UV filters in
internal oil phase
Synergistic SPF boost comes
from Improved skin coverage:
incorporation of one active
the oil phase and one in the
water phase of an emulsion
results in improved overall
coverage of the skin
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
55
Really?
The test shows that when
you split UV filters into
water phase, SPF jumps
from 50 to 57…14%
increase (57/50)
Split UV filters for SPF
efficiency
Phase
Water
phase
Ingredients
%
Phase
Ingredients
%
Water
29.3
Water
30.3
NaCl
1.0
15.0
1.3 BG
5.0
SUNCLEART40AQ
Phenoxy
Ethanol
0.5
Allantoin
Water
Phase
SUNSIL-Tin50
3.0
1.3 BG
5.0
0.2
Phenoxy Ethanol
0.5
Cetiol CC
10.0
Allantoin
0.2
ZD60-BOS
30.0
Cetiol CC
10.0
TPD40-AB
15.0
ZD60-BOS
30.0
SUNSIL-Tin50
3.0
KSG 16
2.0
ABIL EM90
2.0
KF-6017
2.0
In vivo SPF
50
In vivo PA
8.0
Oil
Phase
ZnO used
= 30%*55%
= 16.5 %
TiO2 used
= 15%*32%
+ 3.0%*40%
= 4.8% + 1.2%
= 6.0 %
Oil
Phase
KSG 16
2.0
ABIL EM90
2.0
KF-6017
2.0
In vivo SPF
57
In vivo PA
8.0
ZnO used
= 30.0%*55%
= 16.5 %
TiO2 used
= 15.0%*32%
+ 3.0%*40%
= 4.8% + 1.2%
= 6.0 %
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
56
2. Good compatibility with popular thickeners
Tested thickeners
T40AQ
VEEGUM:
Magnesium aluminum silicate
OK
CARBOPOL 940:
Carbomer
0.3% OK
SEPIGEL 305:
Polyacrylamide/ C13-14 Isoparaffin/ Laureth-7
OK
FLOCARE ET76:
Sodium Polyacrylate & Hydrogenated
Polydecene & Trideceth-6
1% OK
Test condition
Tested formula: O/W,
T40AQ used 15%
Emulsifier used :
AR165 2% & TWEEN60 1%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
57
SUNSIL Tin50
Something for
premium Sun Care
Non Nano TiO2 for
Ultra Light Texture
SUNSIL Tin50, TiO2 Encapsulated Silica Bead
SPF Booster for
Premium Sun Care
5um Silica Bead
With TiO2
TiO2
Silica
42%
58%
Benefits
1.Ultra Light Texture
2.Ultimate Transparency
3.Non Nano
4.ECOCERT
5.Good SPF Boosting
1. Ultra Light Texture
Good Spread & Feel due to external Silica Bead
5um Silica Bead
With TiO2
Tin50 is Spherical. You can feel only
external Silica Bead
Ultra Light Texture
Good Dispersibility due to external Silica Bead
TiO2
Silica
42%
58%
 As the surface of Tin50 is silica, Tin50 exhibits
the excellent dispersion properties of silica
in both oil and water media.
 Cosmetic formulation process becomes much
easier and formulation stability is more reliable
as compared to the use of common nanosized TiO2.
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
60
2. Ultimate Transparency
NANO TiO2
Nano TiO2 looks dark
under microscope as
light beneath blocked by
opaque TiO2
SUNSIL Tin50
SUNSIL Tin50 is
almost as Transparent
as Silica Bead
Silica Bead: SUNSIL 130
Silica Bead looks
transparent.
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
61
3. Non Nano & 4. ECOCERT
ECOCERT approved SUNSIL
Tin50 as “mineral and natural
origin” as there is no nano
particles less than 100nm in
SUNSIL Tin50
SUNSIL Tin50
Nano technology is applied to SUNSIL Tin50
but the size of SUNSIL Tin50 is micron-sized
and visible enough to be seen under normal
optical microscope
There is no nano particle visible
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
62
5. Good SPF Boosting
The real beauty of Tin50
O/W Sun Cream
is that it boosts SPF of
W/O Sun Cream
41
your formula while not
35
35
hurting Light Feel and
29
Transparency
Nano TiO2
Nano ZnO
OMC
OS
Tin50
2.3%
12%
3%
-
2.3%
12%
3%
-
3%
Nano TiO2
Nano ZnO
OMC
OS
Tin50
2%
3.5%
7%
5
-
2%
3.5%
7%
5
3%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
63
Hybrid PMMA series
UV Filters in PMMA
Beads
- Avobenzone
- BEMT
- EHT
Hybrid PMMA series
Core: Chemical
For UV protection
UV Filters(30%)
Shell: PMMA Bead(70%)
1) For Sensorial Modification
2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase
Hybrid AB
Hybrid S
Hybrid EHT
Composition
PMMA
70%
*
Avobenzone 30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
**
BEMT
30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
***
EHT
30%
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
UVA Protection
UVA+UVB
UVB Protection
*Avobenzone:
Butyl Methoxy
dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM)
**BEMT:
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine
***EHT:
Ethyl Hexyl Triazone
When & How to incorporate Hybrid PMMA series?
Q: When?
A: After emulsion, after cooling down emulsion, incorporate Hybrid PMMA
at low temperature(i.e. <30℃)
Melting point
BMDBM: 81~86℃
BEMT: 80 ℃
EHT: 123 ℃
Q: Why?
A: As the Melting point of BMDBM is 81~86℃, if Hybrid AB adds before
emulsion, during the emulsion process, the emulsion temperature could go up
more than 81℃, BMDBM becomes liquid and it would be leaked out from
PMMA shell.
Q: How to add?
A: Polymer Micro Beads are slightly hydrophobic, it would be difficult to
incorporate polymer beads directly into water especially without poly alcohols
Thus, premix polymer beads in poly alcohol solutions such as 1,3 Butylene
Glycol or Propylene Glycol or Glycerin and add the premixed phase after
emulsion
Hybrid AB
Water dispersible
UVA filter
Hybrid AB
Core: Chemical
For UV protection
UV Filters(30%)
Shell: PMMA Bead(70%)
1) For Sensorial Modification
2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase
Hybrid AB
Hybrid S
Hybrid EHT
Composition
PMMA
70%
*
Avobenzone 30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
**
BEMT
30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
***
EHT
30%
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
UVA Protection
UVA+UVB
UVB Protection
*Avobenzone:
Butyl Methoxy
dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM)
**BEMT:
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine
***EHT:
Ethyl Hexyl Triazone
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
68
BMDBM(=Avobenzone)
UVA filter
is a great
but has
Problems too
Problems
(1) Poor Solubility
Avobenzone
•
•
•
•
INCI: Butyl Methoxy
dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM)
Oil soluble UVA filter
Avobenzone was patented in
1973 and was approved in
the EU in 1978. It was
approved by the FDA in 1988.
Its use is approved
worldwide
Avobenzone is sensitive to
the properties of the solvent,
being relatively stable in
polar protic solvents and
unstable in nonpolar
environments
(3) Poor Compatibility
Dimethicone
0
3
Cyclomethicone
0
50
Mineral oil
1
50
Isostearyl Isosterate
3
50
Octylpalmitate
3
50
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride
7
50
Isopropyl Myristate
9
50
PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate
5
50
C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate
11
50
Octyldodecanol
13
50
Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate
26
50
The amount of BMDBM decreases
 weakening of the UVA protection
Aluminum oxide is one of the most
common coating material for TiO2.
BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+
salts from TiO2 coatings
(4) Crystallization
BMDBM is susceptible to
crystallization that results in loss of
product aesthetics, sun protection,
appearance, stability
(2) Poor Photo-stablility
Avobenzone degrades quickly in the sun. Researchers have reported a
36% reduction in UVA absorption by avobenzone after only 15 minutes of
exposure. In vitro studies have shown a 50% loss in UVA blockage for
different sunscreen formulations, confirming the photodegradation of
avobenzone.
However, BMDBM is globally approved
INCI Name
Trade Name
USA
Japan
EU
BMDBM
Parsol 1789
3
10
5
Australia
5
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
69
6 Big Things about Hybrid AB
Hybrid AB
Composition
PMMA
70%
*
Avobenzone 30%
Particle Size
5 um
UVA Protection
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Big Thing #1
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
UVA filter in water phase
Most UV filters are either oils or need to be dissolved in polar emollients.
The results are highly loaded oil phases, which lead to the most common limitations in
Sun Care formulations
-Reduced cosmetic elegance
-Lower flexibility to modify the sensory properties of formulations
-Suboptimal performance due to the use of filters mainly in one formulation phase
Hybrid PMMA, water dispersible, can be incorporated in the water phase
Hybrid
PMMA
Bead
The use of Hybrid PMMA allows a balanced incorporation of UV filters in the water
and oil phase. Therefore, a more homogeneous distribution of the UV filters on
skin can be achieved which often result in a boosting effect
Through incorporation into water phase, Hybrid PMMA offers increased
formulation flexibility. Lower UV filter concentration is needed in the oil phase to
achieve highest contribution to SPF and UVA-PF
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
72
Big Thing #2
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
PA+++ system
Product
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl
hexyl benzoate
Approval Status
(max%)
Remark
EU
JP
US
AUS
DHHB*
4%
10
10
-
10
Not approved in US
Expensive
BEMT**
4%
10
3
-
10
Not approved in US
Expensive
Avobenzone
3.5%
5
10
3
5
Globally approved
Zinc Oxide
(40nm)
17%
25
100
25
20
BMDBM
*DHHB
%
needed
for
PA+++
<100nm ZnO is not
listed as UV Filter in EU
To achieve PA+++,
Avobenzone 3.5% in oil
phase Possible option?
**BEMT
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine
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74
Difficult to use Avobenzone
3.5% in oil phase.
The reasons are…
W/Si
Not possible
As avobenzone is not soluble to silicone oils, usage of even small
amount of avobenzone together with silicone oils causes sever
formula instability
O/W
Not recommended
to put 3.5% of Avobenzone into
internal oil phase as it greatly restricts formulation freedom in oil
phase
W/O
Putting 3.5% in external oil phase is possible…
Concerns about photostability & solubility of Avobenzone requires
use of Octocrylene and other heavy oils
So the feel is very oily and unpleasant
So…Hybrid AB in water phase!
Global PA+++ solution
O/W
#1-1
#1-2
#2-1
#2-2
#3-1
#3-2
#4-1
#4-2
BMDBM
(=avobenzone)
3
1.2
3
1.2
1.7
3.5
-
-
Octocrylene
1
1
1
1.0
1.0
1
-
-
benzophenone-3
-
-
3
3
-
-
-
-
4
5
-
-
-
3.5
-
-
8.0
8.0
9.2
Oil Phase
BEMT
Water Phase
HYBRID AB
-
6
Amount of
BMDBM
3
=1.2+6%*3
0%
3
In vivo PFA
7.0
7.0
7.2
3
-
6
6
3
3.5
8.0
8.0
=1.2+6%*3 =1.7+6%*3
0%
0%
Recommendation from SUNJIN
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
76
Global PA+++ solution
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
77
Chemical Filter Only SPF50 PA+++
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
78
PA+++ solution for USA
Max approval % of
avobenzone in USA is 3% as
compared to 5% or more in
other countries
From the formula right,
BMDBM 1.2% +
Hybrid AB 6%
= 1.2% + 6%*30%
= 1.2% + 1.8%
= 3.0%
BMDBM 3% is not enough to
achieve PA+++
So that’s why BPS-3 is used to
achieve PA+++
No mineral filters used to
meet FDA regulation
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
79
Big Thing #3
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
3. Ultra Light Texture
Good Spread & Feel due to silica shell
5um PMMA Bead
With BMDBM
Hybrid AB is Spherical. You can feel only
external PMMA Bead
Ultra Light Texture
No need to use emollients to solubilize
BMDBM
Solubility ratio
Dimethicone
0
3
Cyclomethicone
0
50
Mineral oil
1
50
Isostearyl Isosterate
3
50
Octylpalmitate
3
50
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride
7
50
Isopropyl Myristate
9
50
PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate
5
50
C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate
11
50
Octyldodecanol
13
50
frequently used as a texture additive, and therefore lend the formula
Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate
26
50
a soft-touch effect
 Most chemical filters are very oily and leave behind an unpleasant,
sometimes sticky feel on the skin
 Hybrid PMMA has the excellent skin feel of PMMA bead which is
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
81
Big Thing #4
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Theoretical Explanation
Photo-degradation of Avobenzone
can be blocked as Avobenzone is
5um PMMA Bead
With BMDBM
immobilized or located inside solid
PMMA matrix where avobenzone is
segregated or protected from other
UV filters or any other kinds of
potentially reactive chemicals
Thus Hybrid PMMA system is very
novel and innovative way to improve
photo-stability of avobenzone
‘Hybrid PMMA bead containing chemical
Sunscreen filters’
Sung-HO Lee, SUNJIN Chemical
IFSCC 2008
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
83
Photo-stability Test protocol
Colipa Method
Irradiation
10MED
Proposed protocol for
determination of
photostability Part I:
cosmetic UV filters
PMMA Plate 5cm2
Layer 1.3mg/cm2
30min drying
Analsis of solution:
HPLC
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
84
Photostability Test Result
3.0
2.95
10
MED
3.0
3.0
3.0
2.95
2.7
10
MED
2.1
10
MED
10
MED
Hybrid AB
BMDBM
10%
0%
Hybrid AB
BMDBM
0%
3%
Hybrid AB
BMDBM
0%
3%
Hybrid AB
BMDBM
0%
0%
OMC
OS
OC
7.5%
5%
0%
OMC
OS
OC
7.5%
5%
0%
OMC
OS
OC
7.5%
5%
2.4%
OMC
OS
OC
7.5%
5%
0%
BEMT
0%
BEMT
0%
BEMT
0%
BEMT
3%
Initial
Net BMDBM = 3%
Photo-stable
Initial
Net BMDBM = 3%
Initial
Net BMDBM = 3%
Initial
Net BMDBM = 0%
Net BEMT = 3%
Photo-stable
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
85
Big Thing #5
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Improved photo-stability
4. Ultra Light Texture
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Minimized Skin Irritancy
Test Results
#1
#2
#3
#4
#5
#6
#7
#8
#9
Distilled Water
10.0
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Isohexadecane
-
10.0
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
SUNPMMA-S
-
-
1.00
-
-
-
0.62
0.62
0.62
OMC
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
0.38
-
0.31
Avobenzone
-
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
0.38
0.07
Hybrid ABOMC
-
-
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
-
Irritation Score
0
1
2
5
3
1
3
2
3
#11
#12
#13
#14
#15
#16
#7
#8
#9
Distilled Water
10.0
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Alkyl Benzoate
-
10.0
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
SUNPMMA-S
-
-
1.00
-
-
-
0.62
0.62
0.62
OMC
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
0.38
-
0.31
Avobenzone
-
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
0.38
0.07
Hybrid ABOMC
-
-
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
-
Irritation Score
0
0
0
3
0
0
0
3
4
The encapsulation of UV filters
inside PMMA bead reduces
dermal uptake, thereby reducing
the potential for irritation
Minimized Skin Irritation
Dermal response:
Test Condition:
Sample size:
Study Design:
Application time:
Dosage:
5 subjects(Korean)
Patch test
72hr
25㎕
0 = No evidence of irritation
1 = Minimal erythema,
2 = Readily visible erythema,
3 = Erythema and papules
4 = Definite edema
5 = Erythema, edema, and papules
6 = Vesicular eruption
7 = strong reaction spreading
“The
500-Da rule for skin
penetration is: 1)virtually all common
contact allergens are under 500-Da, larger
molecules are not known as contact
sensitizers…they can not penetrate and thus
cannot act as allergens in man”
Avobenzone Mw: 310.4
OMC Mw: 290
Octocrylene Mw: 361
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
87
Big Thing #6
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Improved photo-stability
4. Ultra Light Texture
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Example 1: Mousse Foundation with UVA protection
SJF-0806-Mousse Foundation-ver2.0
Evaluation
No.
Trade Name
INCI
%
SPF
50
1
SUNTITAN-AS
Titanium dioxide / Triethoxy caprylyl
silane
PA
++(5.0)
2
SUNSERI-AS
Sericite / Triethoxy caprylyl silane
5.00
SPF/UVA
3
SUNMICA-AS
Mica / Triethoxy caprylyl silane
2.00
Critical
Wavelength
4
SUNSIL-130HSC
Silica / Methicone
5.00
5
SUNSIL Tin50
Silica / Titanium dioxide
3.50
6
Hybrid Talc(DM)
Talc / MBBT / Dimethicone
5.00
7
Hybrid AB
5.00
8
SUNIOR-AS
9
SUNIOY-AS
10
SUNIOB-AS
PMMA / Avobenzone
Iron oxide Red / Triethoxy caprylyl
silane
Iron oxide Yellow / Triethoxy caprylyl
silane
Iron oxide Black / Triethoxy caprylyl
silane
11
SALACOS 99
Isononyl isononanoate
10.00
12
DC200-10CS
Dimethicone
5.00
13
SQUALANE
Squalane
3.00
14
IPP
Isopropyl Palmitate
2.00
15
L.P
Liquid Paraffin
6.00
16
NOMKORT HKG
Glyceryl Behenate / Elcosadioate
4.00
17
JOJOBA OIL
Jojoba oil
1.00
18
VIT.E ACETATE
Tocopheryl Acetate
0.20
19
PARSOL MCX
Ethylhexyl Methxycinnamate
2.00
20
GRAPE SEED OIL Grape Seed Oil
C
21
KSG 16
Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross
Polymer
30.00
D
22
FRAGRANCE
FRAGRANCE
0.08
White Index
A
Sensory Index
Most chemical UV filters are
not very silicone-compatible.
How to incorporate siliconeincompatible UV filters into
silicone phase?
B
7.00
0.42
0.84
0.05
Have you ever seen any
mousse foundation with
UV protection property?
Difficult to see in the market,
right?
You can incorporate Hybrid
PMMA into silicone gel
phase very easily by simple
mixing
3.00
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
89
More Examples:
Formulation Tip
Hybrid AB provides UVA protection from water phase
5% of Hybrid AB can go up to PA++
Examples
Sun Protect Gel, go page 124
Sun Spray, go page 126
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
90
Hybrid S
BEMT in PMMA Beads
 Water dispersible
UVA & UVB filter
Hybrid S
Core: Chemical
For UV protection
UV Filters(30%)
Shell: PMMA Bead(70%)
1) For Sensorial Modification
2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase
Hybrid AB
Hybrid S
Hybrid EHT
Composition
PMMA
70%
*
Avobenzone 30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
**
BEMT
30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
***
EHT
30%
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
UVA Protection
UVA+UVB
UVB Protection
*Avobenzone:
Butyl Methoxy
dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM)
**BEMT:
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine
***EHT:
Ethyl Hexyl Triazone
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92
BEMT
Can’t be used together
with more than 3% of
cyclomethicone(D5) in
formulation
• INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine(BEMT)
• oil-soluble
• Broad-spectrum UV absorber, absorbing UVB as well as UVA
rays. It has two absorption peaks, 310 and 340 nm.
• Highly photostable. Even after 50 MEDs (minimal erythemal
doses), 98.4% remains intact. It helps prevent the
photodegradation of other sunscreen actives like avobenzone
• Not approved in US
• Unlike some other organic sunscreen actives, it shows no
estrogenic effects in vitro.[12]
• A recent development is Tinosorb S Aqua, which is
bemotrizinol in a PMMA matrix dispersed in water. This makes
it possible to add bemotrizinol to the water phase
BEMT needle form crystal
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
93
6 Big Things about Hybrid S
Hybrid S
Composition
PMMA
70%
**
BEMT
30%
Particle Size
5 um
UVA+UVB
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. SPF50 & PA+++
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Hybrid EHT
EHT in PMMA Beads
 Water dispersible
UVB filter
Hybrid EHT
Core: Chemical
For UV protection
UV Filters(30%)
Shell: PMMA Bead(70%)
1) For Sensorial Modification
2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase
Hybrid AB
Hybrid S
Hybrid EHT
Composition
PMMA
70%
*
Avobenzone 30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
**
BEMT
30%
Composition
PMMA
70%
***
EHT
30%
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
Particle Size
5 um
UVA Protection
UVA+UVB
UVB Protection
*Avobenzone:
Butyl Methoxy
dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM)
**BEMT:
bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine
***EHT:
Ethyl Hexyl Triazone
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
96
EHT
Good Things
 INCI: Ethylhexyl triazone
•
The most powerful and photostable UVB filter
•
Excellent photostability
•
EHT, oil soluble UVB filter is the most powerful of its
kind and has the highest UV absorption
Bad Things
(1) Poor Solubility
(2) Crystallization
PPG-3 myristyl ether
13.0
Polyol-fatty acid ester
10.0
Triethyl citrate
9.0
Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides
4.0
Japan(3%), Australia(5%),
C12C15-alcohol benzoate
4.0
Korea(5%)
Isopropyl myristate
3.5
Isopropyl palmitate
2.0
Oleic acid decyl ester
1.5
2-Ethylhexanoic acid cetylstearyl ester
1.0
Olive oil
1.0
Peanut oil
1.0
Jojoba oil
< 1.0
Propylene glycol
< 1.0
Liquid paraffin
< 1.0
 Globally Approved: EU(5%),
EHT is susceptible
to crystallization
that results in loss of product
aesthetics, sun protection,
appearance, stability
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
97
3 Big Things about Hybrid EHT
Hybrid EHT
Composition
PMMA
70%
***
EHT
30%
Particle Size
5 um
UVB Protection
1. Water dispersible UVB filter
2. Suitable High SPF
3. Ultra Light Texture
Hybrid Talc(DM)
UV Filters
For the Oil Phase
No ZnO, PA+++
make up?
Hybrid Talc(DM)
Core: Talc(70%)
Coating: MBBT(20%) + Dimethicone(10%)
1) MBBT for UV protection
2) Dimethicone for hydrophobicity
*MBBT:
Methylene Bis-benzotrizolyl
Tetramethylbutylphenol
Composition
MBBT*
DIMETHICONE
TALC
20 %
10 %
70 %
Particle Size
11um
UVA & UVB Protection for
make-ups
Broad UVA & UVB protection
Because of Bulky chemical
structure, MBBT is neither oil
soluble nor water soluble
MBBT feels extremely chalky
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
100
Hybrid TALC(DM) for PA++ & PA+++
In vivo tested @ SUNJIN
W/S Foundation
No.
@15% of Talc(DM)
In vivo PA7.0
= 7.0/15%
= 0.46 PA/1%
@25% of Talc(DM)
In vivo PA8.0
= 8.0/25%
= 0.32 PA/1%
A
B
C
Trade Name
#1
#2
1
Hybrid Talc (DM)
15.0
25.0
2
SUNTITAN-LL
5.0
5.0
3
SH219-AS
2.0
2.0
4
Iron Oxides
1.3
1.3
7
Parsol MCX
6.0
6.0
8
Emollients
21.2
21.2
16
D.I-Water
34.5
39.5
In vivo SPF
30
35
In vivo PA
7.0(++)
8.0(+++)
Without ZnO,
25% Hybrid Talc(DM) provides PA+++
15% Hybrid Talc(DM) provides PA++
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
101
Formulation:
Formulation Tip
Broad UVA & UVB Protection for make-ups
PA+++ can be achieved
Examples
Mousse Foundation, go page 90
ZnO Free BB Cream with SPF50 PA+++, page 130, 132
ZnO Free Sun Pact with SPF50 PA+++, page 135
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
102
Zinc Oxide Powder & Dispersion
Nano & Non-Nano Zinc Oxides, for UVA protection
Surface
treatment
Crystal
size
(nm)
SUNZNO-NAS
Alkyl Silane
40
19~23
AS coated ZnO,
Counter type of product “Z”
SUNZNO-NCO
Hydrogen
Dimethicone
35
21~28
The most compatible with Silicone Oils
The lowest viscosity of ZnO dispersion
SUNZNO-AS
Alkyl Silane
80
10~15
Standard
N
o
n
SUNZNO
none
150
n.a.
Non-Nano,
ECOCERT for O/W sun care
N
a
n
o
SUNZNO-SA
Stearic Acid
150
n.a.
Non-Nano,
ECOCERT for W/O sun care
N
a
n
o
Surface
area
(m2/g)
Remarks
SUNZnO-SA
X 100,000
ZnO
95%
Stearic Acid 5%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
104
Zinc Oxide Dispersion Overview
ZD60-AB
SUNCLEAR
-Z60CO
ZD60-BOS
ECOCLEAR
-Z50
Alkyl Benzoate
D5
Butyl Octyl
Salicylate
Dicaprylyl
Carbonate
Net ZnO %
57%
57%
57%
47%
ZnO coating
Hydrogen
Dimethicone
Hydrogen
Dimethicone
Hydrogen
Dimethicone
Stearic
Acid
Dispersing agent
Polyhydroxy
Stearic Acid
PEG-9
polydimethyl
siloxyethyl
dimethicone
Polyhydroxy
Stearic Acid
Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxy
stearate &
Polyglyceryl-3
Diisostearate
Non-Nano
-
-
-

ECOCERT
-
-
-

Carrier
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
105
Zinc Oxide is
Safe & Transparent UVA filter
Benefits
(1) UVA protection
(2) Minimized skin irritation
(3) Transparent formula
 “Zinc oxide is a physical block that is
not absorbed, so it does not cause any
allergic reactions. This is especially
important to look for if you have
ZnO Only
TiO2
Very Transparent
Not Transparent
sensitive skin or are using sunscreens
on a daily basis.”
 And unlike many chemical sunscreen
agents, zinc oxide is never irritating. In
fact, it is recognized by the Food and
Drug Administration as a Category I
skin protectant, meaning that it is safe
for compromised or environmentally
challenged skin.
 Zinc oxide is the closest thing to
a total "broad-spectrum"
sunblock on the market today.
 It uniformly covers from 290 to 380
nm, thus protecting against UVB and
most of the UVA spectrum.
 Zinc oxide has over a 300-year history
of safety, with no known adverse
reactions (which is why it is often used
to treat babies). Now, in its micro-fine
form, it is ideal for use in sunscreens
and daily moisturizers.
 No other sunscreen ingredient
provides broader protection.
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
106
FAQ about Zinc Oxide
Questions
ZnO with OMC
30.0
30.0
SPF
24.3
25.0
20.0
15.0
synergy with OMC. Thus the
SPF of 3% ZnO and 5% OMC
would be comparable to the
SPF of 3% TiO2 and 5% OMC.
10.0
6.5
6.5
OMC
5%
SUNZNO
-NAS 3%
25.0
22.5
OMC NAS
5% + 3%
Although ZnO would have lower SPF than
TiO2 by themselves, ZnO shows greater SPF
7.5
boost when used together with OMC
8.5
15.0
4.2
5.0
SPF
20.0
SPF13.6
Boost
4.2
Q1. SPF is the half of TiO2
A. Yes it is. But ZnO has great
TiO2 with OMC
compared to TiO2 with OMC.
8.5
10.0
6.5
Zinc Oxide has higher SPF boost when used
together with OMC as compared to TiO2
5.0
6.5
6.5
OMC
5%
TiO2 3%
OMC TiO2
5% + 3%
Q2. Not stable in O/W formula
A. Generally ZnO is
considered not stable in O/W
formulation. However, if zinc
oxide is well surface treated,
almost there is no problem.
Q3. Price too expensive as
compared to TiO2
A common caution in formulating a ZnO-containing product is to avoid or to minimize the use of anionic emulsifier or thickener
such as carbomers At pH values < 6, the solubility of zinc oxide increase and migration from the oil phase to water phase observed
For this reason, ZnO is usually incorporated into the oil phase of the formulation. Moreover these problems can be minimized or
eliminated by various means. Use of an optimized predispersion maintains the ZnO in a finely dispersed form in the oil phase. In
W/O emulsions, such dispersion techniques are sufficient to eliminate migration and efficacy of ZnO. ZnO can also be coated with
hydrophobic materials in order to reduce migration
As SUNJIN chemical applies one step coating process for surface treated
Zinc Oxide, zinc oxides from SUNJIN are very price competitive. SUNJIN
tries to match the price level of Zinc Oxide comparable to the price of microfine TiO2
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
107
Formula Book
Evaluation Criteria
How to evaluate formulation?
Evaluation
SPF
1. In vivo SPF & PA
PA
2. SPF/UVA & Critical Wavelength for
UVA Protection
3. Draw down White Index for Transparency
4. Sensory Index
SPF/UVA
Critical
Wavelength
White Index
Sensory Index
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
109
Transparency & Sensory Test
3. Transparency
12.5㎛ draw down
By Draw Down Bar
White Index: 25.7
color meter
NIPPON DENSHOKU
COLOR METER ZE 2000
The Higher White index, the
less transparent
White Index
By Draw Down
4. Sensory
Panel Test
5:
4:
3:
2:
1:
Excellent
Good
Fair
OK
Bad
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
110
Evaluation Results
BIOTHERM HOMME_UV DEFENSE
ULTRA LIGHT TEXTURE
O/W SPF50 PA+++
SPF:54
PA:+++
SPF/PA=1.69
CW=374.1
W=17.9
S=5.0
SHISEIDO ANESSA SHAKING
SUN
MILK LOTION
Reference
W/S SPF50 PA+++
L’OREAL_SOLAR
EXPERTISE SENSITIVE
O/W SPF50
W=31.9
S =3.5
EOCERT
Melvita Sun Cream
O/W SPF 15
W=37.01
S=2.5
DM Baby Love
Mineral Sunscreen
O/W SPF 50
SPF:42
PA:++
SPF/PA=1.42
CW=370.3
W=20.9 W = 20.92
S=5.0
W=56.2
S=2.5
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
111
ECOCERT Sun Care
O/W SPF50 PA+++
W/O SPF50 PA+++
ECOCERT O/W SPF50 PA+++
SJF-1210-O/W ECOCERT SUN CREAM SPF 50 PA +++-ver1.0
Evaluation
Part
SPF
50
PA
+++(8.2)
SPF/UVA
= 50/32
= 1.56
Critical
Wavelength
381nm
White Index
50.2
Sensory Index
3.0
White Index 50.2 is
actually quite for
ECOCERT SPF50 PA+++
formula
This level of transparency
achieved by usage of
ECOCERT TiO2 dispersion
A
B
C
Trade Name
Supplier
D.I. Water
%
INCI Name
35.0
Aqua
10.0
Glycerin
Organic refined glycerin
Cremer Care
Cetiol CC
COGNIS
8.0
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
MCT
COGNIS
3.0
Caprylic Capric Triglyceride
Olivem 1000
COGNIS
4.0
Cetearyl Olivate / Sorbitan Olivate
SFT85-CC
SUNJIN CHEMICAL
40.0
TiO2/Silica/Jojoba Esters/Dicaprylyl
Carbonate/Polyhydroxy Stearic acid
Have you ever seen
ECOCERT
SPF50, PA+++
O/W
Sun Care?
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113
ECOCERT W/O SPF50 PA+++
SJF-1204-ECOCERT SUN CREAM-W/O-ver1.0
Evaluation
SPF
PA
SPF/UVA
Critical
Wavelength
White Index
Sensory Index
Part
50
A
+++
50/32
=1.56
B
381nm
60.2
2.5
C
Trade Name
Supplier
INCI Name
T-80SA
SUNJIN CHEMICAL
25.0
SUNSIL-130
SUNJIN CHEMICAL
2.0
Cetiol CC
BASF
16.5
LAMEFORM TGI
BASF
3.0
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
DEHYMULS PGPH
BASF
3.5
Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate
39.0
D.I-Water
NaCl
If you use ECOCERT TiO2
dispersion rather than
direct usage of TiO2
powder(i.e. T-80SA), the
level of transparency
could be improved
%
TiO2 / SiO2 / Stearic Acid
Silica
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Aqua
1.0
Sodium Chloride
Organic Refined
Glycerine
CREMER CARE
5.0
Glycerin
1,3-BG
KOKYU ALCOHOL
5.0
Butylene glycol
Cetiol CC provides less Greasy
Matte appearance and
Good Spread than MCT(Medium Chain Triglyceride) oil
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
114
ECOCERT Sun Care
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
115
Chemical Filter Free
Zinc Oxide Only Sun Care
SJF-1005-ZnO
Evaluation
Only Sunscreen-W/O-ver1.0
Ingredients
%
SPF
30
D.I. Water
38.0
PA
++(6.0)
NaCl
0.5
SPF/UVA
= 30/20.3
= 1.48
1.3-BG
2.0
Critical
Wavelength
374.6nm
Glycerin 98%
3.0
Phenoxy ethanol
0.5
White Index
31.9
Salacos 99
6.0
Sensory Index
3.5
Abil EM-90
3.0
KSG-16
3.0
SUNZNO-NCO 20%
provides SPF 30
KF-995
20.0
Unit SPF = 30/20% =
ISOLAN GI 34
1.0
Bentone 38 VCG
1.0
SUNZnO-NCO
20.0
SUNZNO-NCO 20%
provides PA 6.0
SUNPMMACOCO170
2.0
Unit PA = 6.0/20% =
A
B
C
1.5 SPF/%
0.3 PA/%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
117
Chemical Filter Free, SPF50 PA+++
SJF-1115-High SPF Chemical Filter Free Sun Cream-W/O-ver1.0
Evaluation
Phase
Ingredients
%
INCI Name
SPF
50
Water
29.3
Aqua
PA
+++(8.0)
NaCl
1.0
Sodium chloride
SPF/UVA
=50/30.4
=1.65
1.3 BG
5.0
Butylene glycol
Phenoxy Ethanol
0.5
Phenoxy Ethanol
Allantoin
0.2
Allantoin
Cetiol CC
10.0
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
ZD60-BOS
30.0
Zinc Oxide (55%) & Hydrogen Dimethicone &
Butyl Octyl Salicylate & POLYHYDROXY STEARIC ACID
TPD40-AB
15.0
Titanium dioxide (35%) & Al2O3 & C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate &
Polyhydroxy Stearic Acid & Aluminium Stearate
SUNSIL-Tin50
3.0
Titanium dioxide (40%) & Silica
KSG 16
2.0
Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer
ABIL EM90
2.0
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone
KF-6017
2.0
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Critical
Wavelength
376.6nm
White Index
34.8
Sensory Index
3.5
A
B
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
118
Chemical Filter Free, SPF50 PA+++
SJF-1113-High SPF Chemical Filter Free Sun Cream-W/O-ver1.0
Evaluation
Phase
Ingredients
%
INCI Name
SPF(in vivo)
57
Water
30.3
Aqua
PA(in vivo)
+++(8.0)
15.0
SPF/UVA
=57/30.4
=1.87
SUNCLEART40AQX
Titanium dioxide (32%) & Al(OH)3 & stearic acid &
Disodium steary Sulfosuccinamate & Water
SUNSIL-Tin50
3.0
Titanium dioxide (40%) & Silica
1.3 BG
5.0
Butylene glycol
Phenoxy Ethanol
0.5
Phenoxy Ethanol
Allantoin
0.2
Allantoin
Cetiol CC
10.0
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
ZD60-BOS
30.0
Zinc Oxide (55%) & Hydrogen Dimethicone &
Butyl Octyl Salicylate & POLYHYDROXY STEARIC ACID
KSG 16
2.0
Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer
ABIL EM90
2.0
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone
KF-6017
2.0
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Critical
Wavelength
374nm
White Index
37.4
Sensory Index
3.5
A
B
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
119
SPF50 PA+++
Ultra Transparency = White Index <20
Ultra Light Texture = Sensory Index 5.0
O/W SPF50 PA+++
Evaluation
Part
SJF1212 ver1.0
Product Name
Ingredients
%
Water
1% Carbomer
Aqua
Carbomer
32.4
20.0
1.3 BG
Butylene glycol
3.0
Glycerin
Glycerin
1.5
DC2501 WAX
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
1.0
Phenoxy Ethanol
Phenoxy Ethanol
0.8
19.6
Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA
0.2
5.0
DC 345
Cyclomethicone
4.5
PARSOL MCX
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
6.5
OC
Octocrylene
1.0
Parsol EHS
BMDBM
Parsol HMS
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Homosalate
4.5
1.7
4.0
VEGE WAX 70
Hydrogenated Vegetable oil
1.0
KALCOHOL 6870
Cetearyl Alcohol
1.0
Avobenzone(BMDBM)
ARACEL 165
PEG-100 Stearate & Glyceryl Stearate
2.0
1.7% in oil phase
Tween 60
Polysorbate 60
0.7
+
Tocopheryl acetate
Tocopheryl acetate
0.3
TEA
Triethanolamine
0.2
SEPIPLUS 400
Polyacrylate-13 / Polyisobutene / Polysorbate
0.5
SUNSIL-Tin50
Silica / TiO2
2.0
Hybrid AB
Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane & Polymethyl
Methacrylate
6.0
Fragrance
Fragrance
0.2
Ethanol (98%)
Ethanol
5.0
SPF
52
PA
+++
SPF/UVA
=52/40
=1.25
Critical
Wavelength
383.6
White Index
Sensory Index
Chemical Filter Only
No TiO2
No ZnO
Extremely Transparent
Hybrid AB
6% in water phase
A
B
C
D
E
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121
W/S SPF50, PA+++ Shaking Sun Milk Lotion
SJF-1004-D5 Transparent
Shaking Sun Milk Lotion-W/S-ver2.0
Evaluation
Phase
SPF
52
PA
+++
SPF/UVA
=52/31.4
=1.65
Critical
Wavelength
370.8nm
White Index
23.1
Sensory Index
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
A
5.0
Extremely
Transparent(White index:
23.1)
Ultra Light Texture
UVA protection by
ZnO(12%) & Chemical
Filters
Silky smooth texture and
dries to touch.
No oily feeling when you
apply to face.
Low viscosity, Transparent
&
Good water resistance by
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
B
C
D
Ingredients
%
D.I. Water
21.0
NaCl
0.4
1.3 BG
2.0
Phenoxy Ethanol
0.5
KF 995
20.6
Tegosoft DEC
2.0
PARSOL MCX
6.5
PARSOL EHS
4.0
PARSOL 340
1.0
KF-6028
2.0
Uvinul A PLUS
2.5
SilForm Flexible
resin
4.5
TPD40-AB
5.0
SUNCLEAR-Z60CO
19.0
SUNSIL-Tin50
2.0
SUNPMMACOCO170
1.0
Ethanol (98%)
6.0
Formulation Tip
1. Too much strong film forming? Hard to remove by
soap?
 Reduce SiliForm Flexible resin
2. You don’t want “shaking type”?
 Remove Ethanol
3. You want “Sun Cream” not Sun Lotion?
 Add Bentone 0.2 ~ 0.5%
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
122
Sun Protect Gel & Sun Spray
Remarkable “Daily Sun Protect Gel”
“It’s not sticky at all so
after like 3 minutes I
totally forget that I am
even wearing sunscreen!”
See? Can't see? Exactly!
No shine,
No white casts,
No oiliness,
No stickiness, nothing!
 Once the white gel is spread on the skin, it becomes transparent very quickly and
practically feels like nothing at all except for a gentle cooling sensation
 The gel is very lightweight and easy to spread.... The sunscreen left no sticky feeling or
even white casts that many sun screens usually would.
 Fresh translucent gel is light and spreads easily on skin. Dries quickly and does not leave
and uncomfortable feeling.
 This is definitely an ideal sunscreen for makeup wearers or peeps with really oily skin or
just very afraid of oiliness and stickiness
Copyright © 2010by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
124
Formula from SUNJIN
SJF-1214-SUN PROTECT GEL-ver1.0
Evaluation
Trade Name
SPF
35
PA
++(7.0)
SPF/UVA
= 35/29.6
= 1.2
Critical
Wavelength
373nm
White Index
20.0
Sensory Index
5.0
A
B
C
D
INCI Name
%
PARSOL EHS
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
5.0
PARSOL 340
Octocrylene
3.0
PARSOL MCX
Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate
7.5
Tween 60
Polysorbate 60
0.7
SUNPMMA-P
Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer
1.0
SUNSIL-Tin50
(SUNJIN)
Titanium Dioxide & Silica
2.0
HYBRID AB
(SUNJIN)
Polymethyl Methacrylate / Avobenzone
6.0
1,3-B.G.
1,3-Butylene Glycol
11.0
D.I. WATER
Water
63.1
ARISTIFLEX AVC
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP
Copolymer
0.6
FRAGRANCE
Fragrance
0.1
6% Hybrid AB
provides
PA++
Liquid Chemical Filter=
5.0%
+3.0%
+7.5%
=15.5%
Copyright © 2010by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
125
Sun Spray
SJF-0909-SUN MIST-ver1.0
Evaluation
No.
SPF
20.9
PA
++(5.0)
SPF/UVA
=20.9/13.9
=1.5
Critical
Wavelength
370nm
White Index
18.0
Sensory
Index
5.0
A
B
INCI Name
%
1
Water
Water
44.0
2
1,3 – BG
Butylene glycol
2.0
3
Phenoxy ethanol
Phenoxy ethanol
0.5
4
ININ
Isononyl Isononanoate
3.0
5
TWEEN 60
Polysorbate 60
1.0
6
Rheodol MS 165
Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate
0.5
7
Parsol MCX
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
7.0
8
Uvinul-T150
Ethylhexyl Triazone
3.0
9
Parsol EHS
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
3.0
10
Hybrid AB
PMMA/Avobenzone
5.0
11
SUNPMMA
COCO170
Methyl Methacrylate Cross polymer
1.0
12
Ethanol
Ethanol
30.0
C
D
Trade Name
5% Hybrid AB provides
PA 5.0 (++)
Copyright © 2010by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
126
BB & CC Cream
BB Cream & CC Cream
CC
cream, also known as Color Control cream, is an improved and refined blemish balm
cream created and developed in Korea.
BB (Blemish Balm) cream was originally formulated in Germany and has in recent years
gained a huge following in Asia and is quickly making its way to Europe and the USA for its
skin-regenerating properties.
CC cream is now also widely used in Asia to provide natural-looking skin coverage.
While BB cream was manufactured primarily as a skincare product, CC cream was
developed to retain all the skincare benefits of BB cream with added nourishing ingredients
and the additional aim to provide more effective skin coverage.
CC cream is the newest miracle beauty product available and was formulated with
technology originating in industry-leader Japan and further developed in Korea.
The benefits of CC cream is said to include high SPF rating to ensure protection from
damaging UVA and UVB rays.
It also treats and covers uneven skin tones more effectively and blends with skin tone
better than BB Creams that sometimes appear too light on certain skin tones.
A lighter texture than that of BB cream also allows for smoother application with a less oily
finish, while remaining extremely nourishing to the skin.
The end effect is said to be surprisingly natural and flawlessly radiant complexion than that
of BB cream
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
128
How to make SPF50, PA+++ BB Cream?
•
Normally BB cream formulation is made up of high portion of
powders for coverage and silicone oils for light feel
•
Often there may be not be enough polar emollients to solubilize
BEMT or BMDBM
•
BB Cream, SPF50 & PA+++ is fashion
•
To achieve PA+++, limited options
•
Only few chemical UVA filters & Zinc Oxide
•
Chemical UVA filters(i.e. avobenzone or BEMT) are known for
poor compatibility with silicone
•
However, BB Cream is almost always silicone based formula
•
Zinc Oxide is not welcomed in EU these days
• How to make BB Cream with PA+++?
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
129
SPF50, PA+++ BB Cream
SJF-1209-
Evaluation
Part
SPF
50
PA
+++
SPF/UVA
50/23.93
= 2.09
Critical
Wavelength
372.7nm
Sensory Index
4.0
A
B
Chemical UVA filters(i.e.
avobenzone or BEMT) are
known for poor compatibility
with silicone
25% of SFT85-CC provided
PA+++ in silicone based BB
cream formula
C
D
ZnO Free, Non Nano BB Cream SPF 50, PA+++-W/O-ver1.0
Trade Name
%
INCI Name
SNOWTITAN-LL
5.00
TiO2 / Silica / Lauroyl Lysine
SUNPMMA COCO170
2.00
Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer
SUNIOY-SA
0.90
Iron Oxide Yellow / Stearic Acid
SUNIOR-SA
0.35
Iron Oxide Red / Stearic Acid
SUNIOB-SA
0.10
Iron Oxide Black / Stearic Acid
SFT85-CC
25.00
TiO2 / Silica / Jojoba Ester / Dicaprylyl
Carbonate / Polyhydroxystearic Acid
TEGOSOFT DEC
3.00
Diethylhexyl Carbonate
Bentone 38 V CG
0.20
Quaternium-18 Hectorite
DC 345
8.00
Cyclomethicone
Parsol MCX
7.50
Ethylhexyl Methoxy Cinnamate
ABIL EM 90
2.50
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
KSG 16
4.00
Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
CETIOL CC
3.00
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
SALACOS 99
2.00
Isononyl Isononanoate
KF6017
4.00
PEG-10 Dimethicone
D.I. WATER
24.55
Water
1,3-BG
7.00
Butylene Glycol
NaCl
1.00
Sodium Chloride
PHENOXY ETHANOL
0.50
Phenoxyehanol
FRAGRANCE
0.20
Fragrance
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
130
How to use Hybrid Talc(DM):
PA+++ BB Cream
ZnO Free BB Cream-ver1.0
SJF-1117Evaluation
Phase
Trade Name
%
INCI Name
SPF
35
Hybrid Talc(DM)
25.0
Talc / MBBT / Dimethicone
PA
+++
SUNTITAN-LL
5.0
Titanium Dioxide / Lauroyl Lysine
SPF/UVA
=35/11.9
=2.95
SUNSIL-Tin50AS
2.0
Titanium Dioxide / Silica / Alkyl Silane
SUNIOY-AS
0.9
Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Yellow
Critical
Wavelength
380nm
SUNIOR-AS
0.3
Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Red
SUNIOB-AS
0.1
Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Block
Sensory Index
4.0
TEGOSOFT DEC
3.0
DiethylhexylCarbonate
Bentone 38 VCG
0.2
Quaternium-18 Hectorite
DC 345
5.0
Cyclomethicone
Parsol MCX
6.0
Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate
ABIL EM 90
2.0
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
KSG 16
4.0
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
CETIOL CC
2.0
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
SALACOS 99
2.0
Isononyl Isononanoate
KF 6017
3.0
PEG-10 Dimethicone
D.I-Water
31.0
Water
1,3-BG
7.0
Butylene Glycol
NaCl
1.0
Sodium Chloride
Phenoxy Ethanol
0.3
Phenoxy Ethanol
Fragrance
0.2
Fragrance
A
B
C
D
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
131
O/W BB Cream
SJF-1301-O/W BB Cream SPF25 PA++- ver1.0
Part
Evaluation
SPF
25
PA
++
SPF/UVA
n.a.
Critical
Wavelength
n.a.
Sensory Index
3.5
A
B
C
D
E
F
Trade Name
%
INCI Name
Keltrol F
0.04
Xanthan Gum
Glycerin
1.00
Glycerin
D.I-Water
20.00
Aqua
Veegum R
1.00
Magnesium Aluminium Silicate
T80
10.00
TiO2/Silica
IOY-AS
0.90
Iron Oxide Yellow / Triethoxy caprylylsilane
IOR-AS
0.25
Iron Oxide Red / Triethoxy caprylylsilane
IOB-AS
0.05
Iron Oxide Black / Triethoxy caprylylsilane
1,3-BG
15.00
Butylene Glycol
D.I-Water
28.21
Aqua
MP
0.20
Methylparaben
TEA
1.00
Triethanolamine
Arlacel 165
1.50
GLYCERYL STEARATE/ PEG-100 STEARATE
CEH
4.00
Cethylethylhexanoate
Salacos 99
3.00
ISONONYL ISONONANOATE
Parsol MCX
6.00
ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE
DC 200/10cs
0.30
DIMETHICONE
Finsolv TN
2.00
Caprylic /Capric Triglyceride
GMS 105
3.00
Glyceryl Stearate
Kalcol 6870
1.00
CETYL ALCOHOL
Stearic Acid
2.00
Stearic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
0.50
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance
0.05
Fragrance
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
132
CC(Color Control) Cream
SJF-1211-Non nano Color Control Cream SPF 30, PA++-W/O-ver1.0
Evaluation
Part
Supplier
%
INCI Name
T-80 AS
SUNJIN CHEMICAL
5.00
TiO2 / Silica / Triethoxy caprylyl silane
++
SNOWTITAN-LL
SUNJIN CHEMICAL
8.00
TiO2 / Silica / Lauroyl Lysine
SPF/UVA
n.a.
SUNPMMA COCO170
SUNJIN CHEMICAL
3.00
Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer
Critical
Wavelength
n.a.
SUNIOY-SA
0.90
Iron Oxide Yellow / Stearic Acid
SUNIOR-SA
0.35
Iron Oxide Red / Stearic Acid
Sensory Index
n.a.
SUNIOB-SA
0.10
Iron Oxide Black / Stearic Acid
SPF
30
PA
A
Trade Name
B
C
DC 345
Dow Corning
8.00
Cyclomethicone
Parsol MCX
DSM
6.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxy Cinnamate
ABIL EM 90
Evonic
3.00
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
KSG 16
ShinEtsu
7.00
Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crsspolymer
CETIOL CC
BASF
7.00
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
SALACOS 99
Nisshin Oillio
5.00
Isononyl Isononanoate
KF6017
ShinEtsu
3.00
PEG-10 Dimethicone
D.I. WATER
E
Water
7.00
Butylene Glycol
NaCl
1.00
Sodium Chloride
D.I. WATER
3.00
Water
Arbutin
0.20
Arbutin
Adenosine
0.02
Adenosine
0.50
Phenoxyehanol
0.20
Fragrance
1,3-BG
D
31.73
PHENOXY ETHANOL
FRAGRANCE
Kokyu Alcohol
SASOL
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
133
Pressed Powder
ZnO Free SPF50 PA+++ SUN PACT
SJF-1118
Evaluation
Phase
ZnO Free Transparent Powdery Sun Pact-ver2.0
Trade Name
%
INCI Name
SPF
50
SUNTALC-LL
26.25
Talc / Lauroyl Lysine
PA
+++
SUNMICA-LL
15.00
Mica / Lauroyl Lysine
SPF/UVA
=50/19.1
=2.62
SUNPMMA-X
3.00
Methyl Methacrylate Cross Polymer
Critical
Wavelength
376.8nm
Hybrid Talc(DM)
25.00
Talc / MBBT / Dimethicone
T-80LL
8.00
TiO2 / Silica / Lauroyl Lysine
Sensory Index
3.5
SUNTITAN-LL
5.00
TiO2 / Lauroyl Lysine
FP-OMC
5.00
Methyl methacrylate Crosspolymer &
Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate
SUNSIL-TIN50
5.00
Silica / Titanium dioxide
SUNIOR-AS
0.04
Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Red
SUNIOY-AS
0.09
Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Yellow
SUNIOB-AS
0.02
Alkyl Silane coated Iron Oxide Black
Parsol MCX
5.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate
DC 200F/100cs
2.00
Dimethicone
Phenoxyethanol
0.50
Phenoxyethanol
Fragrance
0.10
Fragrance
A
B
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
135
Powdery Sun Block
SJF-1008-Transparent Powdery Sun Block-ver2.0
Evaluation
Phase
Ingredients
SPF
50
Magnesium
PA
+++
Myristate
SPF/UVA
=50/17.9
=2.8
Critical
Wavelength
380.3nm
Sensory Index
4.0
12% of T-80LL alone can
also give you PA+++
A
B
%
3.0
SUNMICA-LL
13.0
SUNSERI-LL(P)
5.0
SUNTALC-LL
44.1
T-80LL
10.0
FP-OMC
4.0
SUNZnO-NCO
5.0
SNOWTITAN-LL
5.0
Parsol MCX
5.0
DC200 F100
5.5
Phenoxyl Ethanol
0.2
Fragrance
0.2
Copyright © 2013 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
136
Disclaimer
While the descriptions, designs, data and information contained herein are presented in good
faith and believed to be accurate, it is provided for your guidance only.
Because many factors may affect processing or application/use, we recommend that you make
tests to determine the suitability of a product for your particular purpose prior to use.
NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF
MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, ARE MADE REGARDING
PRODUCTS DESCRIBED OR DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION SET FORTH, OR THAT THE
PRODUCTS, DESIGNS, DATA OR INFORMATION MAY BE USED WITHOUT INFRINGING THE
INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY RIGHTS OF OTHERS.
IN NO CASE SHALL THE DESCRIPTIONS, INFORMATION, DATA OR DESIGNS PROVIDED BE
CONSIDERED A PART OF OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE.
Summary
6 Nano TiO2
TX-80: TiO2 & silica & dimethicone
17
Non Nano TiO2
T-80: Revolutionary Non Nano TiO2
40 TiO2 Dispersions
Non Nano TiO2 Dispersion
ECOCERT TiO2 Dispersion
Nano TiO2 Dispersion
Aqueous TiO2 Dispersion
67 Hybrid PMMA Beads with
Avobenzone, BEMT, EHT inside
Hybrid AB: PMMA 70% & Avobenzone 30%
Hybrid S:
PMMA 70% & BEMT 30%
Hybrid EHT: PMMA 70% & EHT 30%
107 Formula Book
ECOCERT Sun Care
Chemical Filter Free Sun Care
SPF50, PA+++ O/W
SPF50, PA+++ W/O
59 Silica Bead with TiO2 inside
Sun Protect Gel
SUNSIL Tin50: Ultra Light Texture &
Ultimate Transparency
BB & CC Cream
Sun Spray
Pressed Powder with Sun Protection
102 Zinc Oxide
Global Distributors’ List
ASIA & Pacific
AMERICA
China
Indonesia / PT. MEGASETIA AGUNG
Poland
USA
TIANJIN XIANGUANG CHEMICAL
Jinyu Road, Xiditou Beichen District, Tianjin
Tel : +86-22-8684-5637
E-mail : [email protected]
Mobile: +86-1370-213-6240
Contact : Sheng-Fan Piao
KIMIA
JI. Paradise Timur Raya F21/58, Sunter
Agung Podomoro, Jakarta 14350
Tel : +62-21-645-1037
[email protected]
Contact : Abagail
ASTON CHEMICALS
Oddział w Polsce, ul. Mińska 63 03828 Warszawa
Tel. +48 22 33-08-450
E-mail: [email protected]
Contact: Mariusz Siwiński
KOBO PRODUCTS, INC.
690 Montrose Ave. - South Plainfield, NJ
07080
Tel : +1-908-757-0033(Ext.6152)
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Barbara Scott
Japan / LINDEN CO.,LTD.
2-2-14 Nakamaru, Fujimino City, Saitama
356-0016, Japan
TEL : (+81) 49-293-3345
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Kazuyuki Miyadera
Australia / New Zealand
RPL Trading.
159-161 Allingham Street, Golden Square,
VIC 3555, Australia
Tel : +61-3-9375-4100
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Russell McNab
EUROPE
France / IMPAG France SAS
6, Boulevard du 21eme Regiment
d'Aviation 54000 NANCY France
Tel : +33 (0)3 83 48 98 05
Email : [email protected]
Contact : Dominique Cormary
COSMETALIA
Monlau 28 2nd floor 08027
Barcelona, SPAIN
Tf. +34 630 12 66 76
www.cosmetalia.com
Contact : Laura Mas
Turkey / HD ULUSLARARASI TIC. VE
Germany / IMPAG GmbH
Fritz-Remy-str.25,63071 offenbach
Tel: +49-69-8500-0830
Fax: +49-69-8500-0880
E-mail: [email protected]
Contact : Karin Flach-Zierer
Thailand / GOWELL CO. LTD
8/9 Moo 7, Bangna - Trad Road KM.9,
Bangkaew, Bangplee, Samutprakarn 10540,
Thailand
TEL : +66-2-315-9189
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Nutthamol Rattanachaiyaphong
Spain & Portugal
Switzerland / IMPAG AG
Feldeggstrasse 26, Postfach, CH-8008
Zü rich
TEL: +41 43 499 25 20
E-mail: [email protected]
Contact: Peter Alder
Taiwan / WWRC
Italy / Caldic Italia Srl
5F-A, No. 30, Chung Cheng 2nd Road,
Kaohsiung 802, Taiwan, R.O.C.
Tel : +886-7-223-9188
Email : [email protected]
Contact : Tommy Hu
Via Saronnino, 5 21040 Origgio (VARESE)
Italy
Tel : +39 (02) 96390216
Email : [email protected]
Contact : Marcello Baggi
Malaysia / DCM Personal Care
UK / ASTON CHEMICALS
Address : No. 5, Jalan U1/21 Seksyen U1,
Hicom-Glenmarie Industrial park , 40150 .
Shah Alam, SelangorDarul Ehsan. Malaysia .
Tel : +603-7804 9606
[email protected]
Contact : Kok Leong, KHOO
1 Aylesbury Industrial Center
Bicester Road, Aylesbury, HP19 8AL
Tel: +44 (0) 1296 678224
E-mail: [email protected]
Contact: Louis Moulin
AMBALAJ SAN. LTD.STI.
Dilovasi Organize Sanayi Bolgesi 5.Kisim
D-5007 Sokak No:2 Ofis No: 11 (Jokey
Plastik Fabrikasi ici) TR-41455 DilovasiKocaeli Turkey
Tel : +90 262 754 01 62
E-mail: [email protected]
Contact : Oktay OZTURK
MIDDLE EAST
Jordan & Syria
RIMA AL.SHURAFA & PARTENERS
149 Amman 11118 Jordan
8th Circle, Al.Bayader, Randa Complex
Building, 2nd Floor, Office, 206
Tel: 009625829876
Mobile: 00962796559025
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Firas Shurafa
SUNJIN AMERICA INC.
2125 Center Ave. (Suite 502) Fort Lee, NJ
07024
Tel : +1-201-585-2801
Mobile : 201-936-3860
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Phil Lee
Canada
GATTEFOSSÉ CANADA INC.
170 Atwell Drive Suite 580 Toronto ,
Ontario M9W 5Z5
Tel : +1-450-724-0564
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Monica Jaramillo
Brasil / Lipo chemicals Inc.
Travessa Claudio Armando, 171 São
Bernardo do Campo São Paulo Brasil
Tel : +55 11 2124-5311 or 5312
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Victor Sales
Mexico / Lipo chemicals Inc.
Tenayuca No.72-A, Col. Centro Ind.
Tlalnepantla Estado de Mexico 54030
Tel : +(5255) 5090-9658
E-mail : [email protected]
Contact : Yasset Gomez Mayoral