www.InternationalLiving.com 39 Dreaming of “La Dolce Vita” in

Italy
©iStockPhoto.com/littleny
D
reaming of “La Dolce Vita” in beautiful Italy? Europe’s most intriguing and
seductive country has all the ingredients you need to live, taste, and experience
life to the utmost.
Italy is one of those places that truly tugs at the heartstrings. Imagine being able to
spend every springtime in Rome, Venice, or Florence…can’t you just picture yourself
meandering beside the Arno River on a perfect May evening, when all the terracotta roofs
and ancient palaces are bathed in that special Florentine glow?
Italy is undeniably romantic. From the days of the grand tour when the first tourists
stood in the shadow of the Coliseum, Italy has attracted expats. As many of them have
found out, it’s not all about the big draws like Venice, Rome, and Florence.
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There is another Italy. One full of idyllic hill towns, medieval villages, wild-flower
meadows and gurgling streams. Where lemon, hazelnut, and orange-tree orchards grow
in the shadow of monumental mountains.
Bella Italia is definitely one of the world’s most captivating countries and hugely
popular with Australians. It is estimated that up to 30,000 Australian citizens are
presently resident in Italy, of whom some 18,000 are dual-nationals. Expats living in Italy
experience a very high quality of life. Life here is relaxed and enjoyable and the vivacious
nature of the Italian people means that it is always interesting.
Just imagine its unspoiled countryside…its wonderful climate…its mouth-watering
delicacies…its lively, dramatic, and excitable people and their zest for life…its art treasures
and the architectural glories of its magnificent past.
Who wouldn’t want to live la dolce vita in Italy?
Cost of living in Italy
Many tourists are under the impression that Italy is expensive. But the truth is living
in Italy can be as expensive or as economical as you want it to be—it all depends on your
location and lifestyle.
Have a cup of coffee on St. Mark’s Square in Venice and all your fears regarding it
being an expensive country are likely to be confirmed. Yet step outside of the tourist
hot-spots, and you’ll quickly discover that you don’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy the
good life. In the deep south and rural Lunigiana and Liguria, for instance, you can buy
litre-jugs of local wine for as little as €4 to €5 ($6 to $8), or a three-course meal with
wine in a nice restaurant for a mere €20 to €25 ($31 to $39) a head.
There are wide disparities for the cost of living between the north and the south of
the country, with both income and cost of living being significantly higher in the north.
Italians spend most of their disposable income on housing, water, energy, and food.
For those with an interest in living in northern or central Italy, singles can enjoy
a comfortable lifestyle on an annual income of approximately €17,000 to €26,000
($26,350 to $40,300). Couples may require an income of between €25,000 and €40,000
($38,750 and $62,000).
If you are intrigued by the South of Italy, you will need far less for a comfortable
lifestyle. On page 41 is a monthly budget for a couple living in a two-bedroom, furnished
apartment in Basilicata in southern Italy.
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How to Retire in Paradise From $40 a Day
Rent
Sample monthly budget for a couple living in a two-bedroom,
furnished apartment in Basilicata in southern Italy:
$676
Utilities (electric, Internet, phone)
Petrol, maintenance, tax, and insurance for one car
Taxes Shopping
$22
$90
Health care
That’s $55 a day per couple.
$304
$101
Dining/Entertainment
Groceries
$157
$45
Monthly total:
$259
$1,654
Where to live for less in Italy
Le Marche
©iStockPhoto.com/clodio
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The local tourist board calls Le Marche “Italy in one region”. Hills topped by
medieval castles and tiny walled towns glowing in warm shades of pink, ochre, and gold.
This green and unspoiled landscape of stone farmhouses, olive trees, and vineyards, is
rimmed by a blue sea and endless miles of golden beaches. Pronounced “lay markay,” its
name means border country.
Le Marche is in the heart of central Italy, sandwiched between the peaks of the
Apennines and the warm, shallow waters of the Adriatic coast to the east of Umbria. This
is the region to explore for rustic country wines that offer full-on, no-holds-barred flavour
at farmers’ market prices.
Try imagining over-valued Tuscany without the crowds—that will give you an inkling
of what Le Marche is like. Along with lovely landscapes, there’s probably enough art,
culture, and history here to keep most folks occupied for a lifetime. The area’s facts and
figures are astounding: over 1,000 important monuments, 106 castles, 33 fortresses, 163
sanctuaries, 40 abbeys, and more than 100 little towns classed as “art cities.”
Urbino is the jewel in Le Marche’s glittering tiara of medieval hill towns; a picture
postcard of the Middle Ages. Its switchback streets and cobbled alleyways are flanked
by a medley of beautiful houses and palaces made from tiny pink and gold bricks. The
surroundings are spectacular: tree-covered green hills resembling the rumpled-up
bedspread of some storybook giant.
But Urbino is just one of dozens of hill towns. Another favourite was Jesi. Pronounced
“yezzi,” it is a beautiful arrangement of pinkish-gold stone houses with dark green
shutters huddled behind rampart walls.
Apulia
Apulia makes up the heel and much of the Achilles tendon of the Italian boot. It’s
a beautiful region with long stretches of sun-baked coastline on both the Adriatic and
Ionian seas. Italians from the north have been quietly discovering the long coastline and
the hearty peasant food and wine.
Inland, Apulia sounds like an Italian postcard…rolling, sunny plains and uplands
that are a major source for much of Italy’s grain, wine, and olive oil. It’s difficult to find
anywhere quite as strange or beautiful as the Itria Valley. Dotted with woody thickets and
enclosed by tiny stone walls, the earth here is a deep rich red, almost blood coloured.
This is a tranquil realm of gnarled olive trees and vineyards, of little gardens that produce
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How to Retire in Paradise From $40 a Day
©iStockPhoto.com/meinzahn
green-leaf crops even in deepest winter. Unlike in central Italy where towns glow in
shades of rich earth colours, little settlements here gleam white, shimmering like mirages
on low hills under a deep blue sky.
In many places you will find trulli. These circular stone houses (singular trullo,
plural trulli) with their peculiar conical roofs, look just like stone igloos. Usually with
a whitewashed base, many trulli have their beehive-like roofs of grey stones daubed
with mystical symbols that seemingly relate to magic or fertility. And all are topped with
decorative white stone knobs called pinnacoli which symbolise the sun.
You can pick up simple trulli in the nearby countryside for unbelievable prices, even
though their prices have risen over the past few years. But you’ll still find many for around
€30,000 to €50,000 ($46,500 to $77,500) with a three-room structure to restore.
Both Italian tourists and expats alike find Apulia quite an affordable place to live
and visit, with everyday items and all public services costing slightly less than the Italian
average, and much less than the European average.
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Abruzzo
©iStockPhoto.com/Claudio Giovanni Colombo
Fringed by Adriatic beaches, the Abruzzo region is a tapestry of mountains, olive
groves, vineyards, and pine forests. Picturesque hill towns come with cobbled streets,
small churches, and medieval watchtowers.
Abruzzo’s landscape isn’t as manicured as Tuscany’s, but it’s studded with medieval
hill towns, olive groves, and vineyards. No heavyweight art cities to be sure, but it’s the
perfect spot for living la dolce vita. So if relishing good food, enjoying a slow-paced
lifestyle, and discovering beautiful pastoral landscapes, is what your heart seeks, you will
find they’re all here. And for a regular art fix, Rome is only around two hours away to the
east.
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Another bonus is that most small hill towns and villages are within 30 to 60 minutes of
the Adriatic’s sandy beaches. For winter sports enthusiasts, the Apennine Mountains offer
downhill and cross-country skiing.
There’s an Italy for everyone. Even an Italy for those with ultra-tight budgets, and
Abruzzo is the land of cheap properties.
Buying property in Italy
Although all residential property is freehold and titles are registered, the buying
procedure in Italy is complex and lengthy. Generally, there are three steps involved in
buying a property: proposal of purchase, preliminary purchase (compresso), and final
purchase (rogito).
Central to the purchasing process is the notaio (notary). An Italian notaio is a qualified
individual with broad legal responsibilities. They represent the state in the processing of
real estate sales, and are responsible for ensuring that all the deeds are authentic and of
incontestable value.
The notaio normally acts as a witness for both parties, drawing up the sales contract
and, if applicable, dealing with the final mortgage deeds.
While some buy privately, most foreign buyers use the services of a realtor (mediatore,
immobiliare, or agente) registered with the local Chamber of Commerce. If you are
unfamiliar with Italian real estate practice, you should take the time to find a realtor with a
good track record, and strong references.
Property examples in Italy:
The exchange rate used here is €1 = AU$1.55
• Just seven kilometres from the sea, in the Ceglie Messapica area of Puglia, is a
spacious property consisting of a trullo and two lamias (small stone houses), with
an additional lamia which needs to be restored. The property comprises two
bedrooms, a kitchen, a bathroom, and the trullo which can be connected with
one of the lamia. The building is structurally sound and is in need of cosmetic
works only. Price: €75,000 ($116,250).
• If you prefer the idea of living by the sea, you can buy a four-room villa in the
seaside town of San Pietro in Brevagna. This property in Puglia has 70 square
metres of living space and includes a garage. It was recently redeveloped. Price:
€125,000 ($193,750).
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• A first-floor spacious apartment overlooking the Adriatic Sea with 40 square
metres of living space. It’s just a 10-minute drive from the beach and within
walking distance of Torino Di Sangro—a lively town in Abruzzo. The apartment
has two bedrooms, a kitchen and lounge, one bathroom, and 10 square metres of
courtyard. Price: €130,000 ($201,500).
• A nicely renovated, three-bedroom townhouse, just five kilometres from Lake
Bomba in Abruzzo. The property has 120 square metres of living space and also
includes a separate studio flat. There are also balconies and a front patio garden.
The house comes with central heating. Price: €155,000 ($240,250).
• A newly restored villa with fantastic sea views, only a short stroll from the sea in
Brindisi, Puglia. The villa consists of a large kitchen/living room, a bathroom,
and a utility room on the ground floor. On the second level there are two
bedrooms and a bathroom. The villa also comes with heating, air conditioning,
an alarm system, and a water tank. It’s on the market for €235,000 ($364,250).
Health care in Italy
Italy ranks among the World Health Organization’s top 10 countries for quality
health services (by contrast, Australia only holds 32nd place) However, although medical
facilities are considered to be adequate for any emergencies, many public hospitals are
overcrowded and underfunded.
Of course, you don’t have to rely solely on public health facilities. Like many Italians,
you can avail of the parallel private medical service that caters for patients covered by
private medical insurance. Be aware that in some small towns, particularly in the south,
you will only be able to access the public health system. You are more likely to find private
doctors and hospitals in bigger cities, where residents are more likely to have private
medical insurance.
It is vital that visitors from Australia (and persons not enrolled under the National
Health Plan) take out private medical insurance. Premiums vary considerably but
generally range from €1,500 to €2,300 ($2,325 to $3,565) annually for a family of four.
If you’re relocating to Italy, you’re not going to be able to join the National Health Plan
on the day you arrive.
Those registered with the National Health Plan must pay for tests and specialised
examinations up to the value of €36 ($56). The state pays the excess amount. Children
under six years of age, adults over 60 years of age, people suffering from chronic diseases,
people with disabilities, and pregnant women are exempt from this expense. For specialist
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How to Retire in Paradise From $40 a Day
examinations (e.g. dental care or eye examinations), private practitioners are often
consulted.
Visa information
Italy has a multitude of visas—the most common ones are for business, family reunion,
independent work, religious reasons, study, tourism, and transit. Citizens of countries
such as Australia, the U.S., and Canada do not need a visa to enter Italy for up to 90 days
if the purpose of their trip is tourism- or business-related.
If you’re planning on staying longer than 90 days, but aren’t yet sure about permanent
residence, you’ll need a Schengen Treaty/Tourist Visa.
Schengen Treaty/Tourist Visa: This is valid for most countries in the EU—Austria,
Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Italy, Luxembourg,
Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain, and Sweden included.
Elective Residence Visa for Italy: If you are visiting Italy for a longer period, and
can afford to live there without working, you may want to apply for a Visto per Residenza
Selettiva o Dimora, or Elective Residence Visa. This type of visa is generally used by
foreigners who are retired and can collect income from a retirement or pension plan. This
type of visa is issued solely to those who are planning to move to Italy. It does not allow
the applicant to work.
Family Visa: The Visto per Coesione Familiare is a visa for family members, applicable
when the whole family is leaving and returning together and staying in Italy longer than
three months. Besides the usual documents, you will need proof of the familial relations.
Living among the olive groves in Southern Italy
By Chris Wildgen
For Leonie Whitton and David Westbuy, the biggest advantage of being in
Puglia is access to fresh, delicious food.
“We can source most food stuffs within 20 miles. Here, farmers are still
growing olives and produce and you can buy direct in the area. It is the
opposite of the supermarket culture,” says Leonie.
In fact, the couple themselves produce some of their own food. From their
olive trees, they can make more than a year’s supply of extra virgin olive oil.
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Leonie makes jams and marmalades from the fruit of the orange, loquat,
and lemon trees on their property. They have fresh herbs, a small vegetable
garden, and five chickens that provide fresh eggs.
Their house wine is from a local winemaker who grows only traditional
Puglia grapes. The other food is all local, some purchased at the farmer’s
market three kilometres away in Ostuni.
“We like our food and don’t count the cost, but if we did, the weekly bill
for the two of us would probably cost over $100,” says Leonie. “We drink the
Puglian Primitivo, which is now being recognized as one of Italy’s finest wines.
Its price all over the world is rocketing, but here in Puglia we can still drink the
best without breaking the bank. Depending on what we buy, a litre of wine will
cost between $1.79 and $3.64.”
Leonie and David went south to Puglia because of the nice weather,
proximity to the sea, and the low cost. They bought a run-down masseria
(traditional Puglia farmhouse) for $223,965 envisioning an artists’ retreat.
With a budget of only $29,800 and the occasional help of friends and
family, they accomplished the rebuild and renovation in less than a year.
And in 2004, they opened as a B&B and as a venue for special art weeks
which they teach. “The business evolved and grew from our own interests, into
food tours, wine tours, and art tours. We pick what we like and create the next
thing,” said Leonie.
“Most importantly,” adds David, “We run our business; our business does
not run us.
“When time allows, we love to wander around the local countryside, either
on foot or by bike. We live on the coastal plain that is given over mainly to olive
oil production. This means flat countryside, endless olive groves and a varied
coastline—perfect for a leisurely bike ride or stroll along the beach,” says David.
For more information…
To learn even more about Italy and all it has to offer check out the Italy section of
International Living’s website (website: http://internationalliving.com/countries/italy).
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How to Retire in Paradise From $40 a Day