CWT 26 Spring 2008 Issue for web.qxd

Transcription

Traveller
C
A
N
A
D
I
A
N
W O R L D
In This Issue
Spring 2008 / Vol 6 / No 3
Middle East
Jordan
Focus on Asia
Japan
Mongolia
India
North America
Chicago
Europe
France / Monaco /
Italy / Greece
Canad
a’s
Only P
rint an
d
On-lin
e
Consu
mer Tr
avel
Magaz
ine
Photo: George Fischer
Printed on 100% Recycled & Recyclable Paper
A word
from the editors
W
elcome to the Spring 2008
Issue of Canadian World
Traveller, which is being
distributed across Greater Montreal, as
well as in select locations in the Greater
Toronto Area.
For those not familiar with our magazine, this is the sixth year of its publication.
This issue, as well as all of our previous
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www.canadianworldtraveller.com.
In addition, an electronic version of
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across Canada.
You will note that our publication is
printed on 100% recycled paper. This is
just our small but significant contribution
to our collective efforts to help preserve
the forests of our beautiful planet.
We hope that our initiative will inspire
other print media to follow suit and that
you will recycle this magazine after reading it.
Published by
Canadian World
Traveller
In this issue, we conclude our ten-day
odyssey in the peaceable Kingdom of
Jordan. If you missed Part One in which
we visited awe-inspiring Petra, we invite
you to access it on our website.
In the Focus on Asia segment of this
issue, we visit truly incredible India; ride
across the Steppes of Mongolia; and marvel at the ancient and modern traditions of
mysterious Japan.
Finally, we explore the many sides of
the exciting windy city of Chicago and
take you along on a fun-filled family vacation across Europe.
4055, Ste-Catherine Street West, Suite 158
Westmount, Qc Canada H3Z 3J8
Tel.: (514) 667-2293
www.canadianworldtraveller.com
Email: [email protected]
Publisher
Editor-in-chief
Graphic Artist
Advertising
Marketing
Distribution
Ecotourism
Contributors
Have a Great Spring Vacation!
Cover Photo:
Table of Contents
Page
Jordan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Japan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Mongolia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
India . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Chicago . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
France / Monaco / Italy & Greece . . . . 26
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David J. Cox
Natalie Ayotte
Lise Giguère
Erez Gordon
Xerxes N. Marduk
Petra, Jordan by
George Fischer
Printed in Canada
Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made every
effort to verify that the information provided in this
publication is as accurate as possible. However, we
accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by anyone resulting from the information contained herein nor for any information provided by our advertisers.
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Canadian World Traveller Spring 2008
Jordan
A Peaceable
4
Kingdom
Part Two
By Greg James
[email protected]
I
n Part One of our incredible ten-day odyssey in the peaceable Kingdom of Jordan, we began by exploring its capital
city Amman, a surprisingly modern, hospitable and bustling
metropolis.
Next on our exciting countrywide tour, was a pleasant drive
to Jordan's northern regions, which boast lush pine forests,
olive groves and the famed hilltop castle of Ajloun. A drive
southward then brought us to the imposing ruins of the Roman
city of Jerash.
Adding to our ambitious yet intriguing itinerary, were stops at
Mount Nebo, where Moses viewed the Promised Land;
Madaba, famous for its historic mosaics; and Kerak, the almost
impenetrable fortress built by the Christian Crusaders.
But our two-day stay at Petra, which was carved out of towering rose-red rock cliffs some 2000 years ago and recently
named one of the "Seven New Wonders of the World", was
truly awe-inspiring! "What could top that?" I thought. I would
soon find out as we headed further south for Wadi Rum!
See Jordan on page 5
Jordan
5
Continued from page 4
The Amazing Wadi Rum
It is almost impossible to describe this
amazing expanse of desert that is the
largest wadi (valley or dry riverbed) to be
found in Jordan. Rum (pronounced more
like ramm) is derived from an Aramaic
word meaning 'high' or 'elevated'.
Unlike my previous conception of
deserts as just miles and miles of undulating, featureless sand dunes, Wadi Rum
boasts spectacular soaring mounds of
sandstone and granite rock rising out of
the surrounding endless sea of sand.
This area has been inhabited by many
human cultures since prehistoric times.
Many of these cultures, including the
Nabateans of Petra fame, left their mark
in the form of rock paintings, graffiti and
temples, which are still visible.
Photo: Jordan Tourism Board
Seven Pillars of Wisdom
Solitary Walk
In the 1980s, one of the impressive
towering rock formations in Wadi Rum
was named "The Seven Pillars of Wisdom"
in memory of Lawrence's book penned in
the aftermath of the war and this is where
we started our incredible desert safari.
After a wonderful meal at the remarkably comprehensive interpretation centre,
we boarded our 4-wheel-drive Jeeps for
the ride of a lifetime across the seemingly
endless expanse of Wadi Rum.
Protected from the scorching rays of the
desert sun by hats, sunglasses and sunblock lotion, we revelled in the exhilarating ride along the barely marked trails.
One soon began to understand why
only certified local drivers are allowed to
venture into the Rum, as it would be so
easy to lose your way and end up driving
in circles!
Our Jeeps pulled up in the shadow of
one of the many rock formations and our
intrepid guide invited us to take a solitary
walk in whichever direction we wanted.
He explained that to truly experience
the Rum one must get away from the
madding crowd, listen to the subtle
sounds of the wind, feel the sand running
away from under your footsteps and let all
of the cares and stress of modern-day life
gradually slip away.
As I got farther away from our caravan,
I could understand what he meant. All I
could hear was the sound of my own
breathing and the soft whispering of the
wind. It was indeed a unique experience,
but it was comforting to know that I was
not really alone in this strangely beautiful
yet totally unforgiving environment!
Today, several Bedouin tribes (and their
camels) inhabit Wadi Rum and the surrounding area.
But when you are there, you have the
distinct feeling that you are all alone with
nature and whatever higher power you
believe in.
Lawrence’s Legacy
For most Westerners, Wadi Rum is best
known for its connection to British army
officer T. E. Lawrence, portrayed by Peter
O'Toole in the film Lawrence of Arabia.
Lawrence and his Arab allies crossed
Wadi Rum during the Arab Revolt of
1917-1918 against the Ottoman Turks.
Much of the award-winning 1962 film was
shot on this actual breathtaking location,
but the cinematic images pale in comparison to the real thing.
6
Jordan
Natural Bridge
After stopping to view one of the most
visible examples of ancient graffiti carved
into Wadi Rum's rock formations by longforgotten civilisations, we came upon one
of the Rum's most astounding natural features, a soaring natural rock bridge that
was created by eons of wind-driven sand.
After gingerly climbing up one of the
steep "banks" a group of us reached the
middle of the span and did a high-kicking
cancan routine as our less adventurous
travelling companions clicked away with
their cameras from terra firma.
The camp consisted two rows of continuous tents forming a v-shape against one
of Wadi Rum's soaring rock formations.
The remarkably comfortable units were
separated from each other by thickly
woven blankets, which were also used as
"doors" to each unit.
The furnishings consisted of a single
bed and a night table with a candlestick
and matches. Part of the charm was the
lack of electricity and other modern
amenities in the tents but the common
bathroom facilities did have lights and
running water.
Moonlit Supper
Desert Sunset
As the shadows grew longer and the
temperature dropped we arrived at a picture-postcard spot to view the sun finally
setting on the desert horizon. It was a
moment to be forever cherished.
Silhouetted against the waning ball of
fire were two Bedouins on their camels
heading for their camp. The sky turned
every imaginable hue then darkened as a
full moon began its ascent.
Our Bedouin hosts were wonderful.
They made us an incredible meal, slowly
cooked in a pit filled with preheated rocks.
As we savoured the meal seated in a circle
around a campfire, Bedouin musicians
entertained us under the light of the desert
moon. What more could one ask for?
After a remarkably restful sleep, we
said goodbye to our charming hosts and
left for our journey south to an entirely different world, the Red Sea resort town of
Aqaba.
Aqaba Sojourn
Aqaba is strategically important to
Jordan, as it is the country's only seaport.
The town has been an inhabited settlement since 4000 BC, profiting from its
location at the junction of trading routes
between Asia, Africa, and Europe. It is
very easy to locate on the map as it is at
the southernmost tip of Jordan where the
country comes to a point at the Gulf of
Aqaba, an arm of the legendary Red Sea.
During World War I, the occupying
Ottoman forces were forced to withdraw
from the town after the 1917 raid led by
T. E. Lawrence AKA Lawrence of Arabia
and the Arab forces of Sharif Hussein.
Welcome to Your Tent
Perhaps the most unusual accommodations you could ever imagine would be to
spend a night in a Bedouin camp in the
middle of the desert! Yet that was exactly
what was in store for us.
I had visions of spending a sleepless
night on a thin bedroll with all sorts of
creepy crawlers as bedmates and strange
nocturnal creatures howling at the flap of
my temporary abode.
How wrong could I be?
Jordan
7
Four Countries Meet
Lying on Jordan’s short coastline
between Israel and Egypt to the west and
Saudi Arabia to the East, Ababa's location
is truly unique. With the warm crystal clear
waters and the cool breezes of its Gulf, its
no wonder that this is a favourite holiday
spot among both locals and foreigners.
After checking into the Intercontinental
Hotel Aqaba, we spent a wonderful afternoon on a boat ride around the gulf, stopping to plunge into the waters to do some
snorkelling. The gulf is recognised as a
world-class diving site because of its wonderful coral reefs.
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Itineraries include visits to
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Photo: Jim Pitts
Jordan Tourism Board North America
www.visitjordan.com
The affably crew even managed to
orchestrate an impromptu dance on the
upper deck! Most of us joined in, cavorting to the quick-tempo of the recorded
Arabic music, as we sailed by the coasts
of Israel, Egypt and Saudi Arabia.
Dead Sea Spas
The following day, we headed back
north and drove along the shore of the
Dead Sea, which is the lowest place on
earth. Because of constant evaporation,
the water is 30 percent saline. The result is
that when you lie in it, you cannot sink!
Taking advantage of the health-giving
quality of the salty water and the black
shinny mud that is dredged from the
depths of the Dead Sea, several luxury spa
hotels grace its fairly steep shores.
8
Jordan
Swimming to the Sea
I was fortunate to be staying at the 5star Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea. This
extraordinary hotel features seven interconnecting pools starting from the high
perch of the main building and descending in steps to the edge of the sea.
One of my travelling companions and I
literally swam our way to the sea, stopping
at each pool for a refreshing dip!
Once there, we rolled in laughter as
the members of our group took turns
slathering each other from head to foot in
the pitch-black mud contained in pots
along the rocky shore.
After letting the mud dry, true spa aficionados then lie on their backs in the
sea, making sure mot to get any of the
salty water into their eyes or mouths. This
was a truly unique experience!
Bethany Beyond
the Jordan
A totally different experience awaited us
the following day.
We drove to the spot on the east bank
of the River Jordan where Saint John is
said to have baptized Jesus Christ.
Whatever one’s beliefs, it was truly
moving to walk along the pathways that
led to the revered spot, which is marked
by a sheltered baptismal font. Ironically,
you could almost reach across the narrow
rivurlet to Israel on the other bank.
Fond Memories of Jordan
With so many unique experiences
awaiting you in this remarkable peaceful
country, even the most jaded traveller will
be astounded over and over again!
Getting There
Royal Jordanian Airlines
Website: www.rja.com.jo
Where to Stay
Intercontinental Hotel Aqaba
www.Intercontinental.com
Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea
www.kempinski-deadsea.com
For More Info on Jordan
Jordan Tourism Board North America
6867 Elm Street, Suite 102
McLean, VA 22101
Tel.: 703-243-7404/5
Toll-free: 1-877-seejordan (733-5673)
www.visitjordan.com
Office National
du Tourisme Tunisien
1253, av McGill College
Montréal, Québec H3B 2Y5
Tél. : (514) 397-1182
Fax : (514) 397-1647
E-mail : [email protected]
Site Web : www.tourismtunisia.com
10
Mysterious
Japan
By Michael Morcos
T
here is something that has always
intrigued me about Japan. It is where
my Nikon camera, my Nissan car, and
our Sony television were made. It is the origin
of karate, the wonderful sushi, sake, and the
land of the bullet train. It's a mystery how such
a small island nation with few natural resources
can dominate so many industries worldwide.
My ten day tour of central Japan on the main
island of Honshu would bring us to Mount
Koya, the city of Sakai, Osaka, Yokohama, and
finally Tokyo.
See Japan on page 11
Photos: Michael Morcos
Japan
The weirdest one was from a termite
company that had a monument for the
termites they exterminated.
Mt. Koya
Getting to Mount Koya (Koyasan) was a
thrilling bus ride that twisted and turned
up a narrow cliff occasionally stopping to
let small cars and motorcycles pass. Over
one hundred temples stand in the small
town on top of the wooded mountain.
Koyasan is one of the best places to
experience a night at a temple. About fifty
temples in the area function as shukubo,
where tourists are welcome to stay
overnight, try shojin ryori, the vegetarian
cuisine of monks and participate in the
morning prayers.
Mount Koya is the centre of Shingon
Buddhism, a Buddhist sect that was introduced to Japan in 805 by Kobo Daishi
(aka Kukai), one of the most significant
personalities in Japan's religious history.
Koyasan is home to an active monastic
center founded twelve centuries ago by the
priest Kukai for the study and practice of
Esoteric Buddhism. It is the headquarters
of the Koyasan sect of Shingon Buddhism,
a faith with a wide following throughout
Japan.
Situated on a small plain at the top of
Mount Koya is the sacred area known as
the Danjo Garan, a complex of temples,
halls, pagodas and Buddhist statues that
welcome visitors to this serene and hallowed place.
Danjogaran Complex
The Konpon Daito pagoda is a very
impressive site and is seen as a symbol of
Koyasan. This great pagoda was struck by
lightning five times and was last rebuilt in
1937. Many other historical buildings of
great importance including Fudo Hall, the
oldest building on the mountain, were
found here.
A very important part of the pilgrimage trail was witnessing individuals who
were on their trail including a young monk
who would read a long verse out of a
book.
Okuno-In Memorials
Surrounded by a thick forest of massive
cedars, the area known as Okuno-in, or
the Inner Sanctuary, is the setting for a
vast cemetery that features the mausoleum
of numerous famous Japanese figures,
including that of the samurai ruler
Toyotomi as well as memorials to the spirits of soldiers killed in the Pacific War.
Many well known Japanese companies
buy plots here, placing large elaborate
marble monuments with their company
name engraved in them.
Mizumuke Jizo
Towards the back of the park was a
holy shrine and large Buddha statues
where worshippers commemorated their
ancestors by pouring water over them
three times before saying a prayer. The
kids seemed to be totally amused by the
ritual while the elderly were far more
solemn bowing, closing their eyes and
praying.
Overnight Experience
A major highlight of my trip to Japan
was the overnight stay at a temple that
was run by Buddhist monks. We checked
in to the monastery just in time for the
evening meditations. It was a great experience sitting in a dark room with the head
master. It seemed as though not much
happened. There was nary a sound and
everyone was still.
After an hour the head master turned
to greet us and explained that we are all
part of the same universe that is dominated by the Cosmic Buddha and by being
still and quiet we would have the powers
of this Buddha pass through us. He also
made it clear that meditation is a lifetime
practice and takes time to master.
That evening we were treated to a vegetarian supper prepared by the monks
which was served in a traditional
11
style on low tables, sitting on pillows
on the floor.
After supper we took Japanese style
baths in a common room where men
would first wash themselves while sitting
on small chairs. This seemed a social
event, as the men would discuss matters
while lathering, scrubbing and rinsing
themselves. Afterwards they would sit in a
small pool of hot water almost too hot for
comfort, and chat away the night.
The total temple experience would
have me in my own room that faced a
beautifully and meticulously cared for
Japanese garden. My room was simple
with only a thin mattress on the floor, a
small table and rice paper doors. What
stood out was the contrast between these
very traditional rooms and the state of art
bathrooms with heated toilet seats and
automatic self-flushing bowls.
Our short Temple experience would
end much too soon but not before a very
early morning ceremony with five monks
that had them chanting while playing
drums and bells. I was moved by the
devotion of the monks and their way of
life, serene, juxtaposed against the everchanging quick paced world in which I
live.
Town of Swords
Sakai is well known for its knife making, but has many other notable places
including the burial place of the first
Japanese emperor.
The burial grounds are on a forested
island in the heart of the city that is forbidden to everyone except the royal family.
Legend has it that the first emperor was
not even Japanese but a Korean which
many consider scandalous.
Our city walk brought us to many
interesting temples and historical places
including a well cared for Japanese public
park. There we had a personnel unscheduled privet tour of the manicured grounds
by a proud city gardener.
12
Our brief stay in Yokohama was at the
redeveloped docks area of Minato Mirai
21 that has many high scale hotels, a
convention centre and an amusement
park. Among the many things to see in
Yokohama is Japan's largest China town,
the Landmark Tower; Japan's tallest tower
with the fastest elevator and the
Yokohama Museum of Art.
Although Yokohama is thirty-five kilometres away from Tokyo, it is still part of a
very large urban centre of Tokyo as travelling between the two cities found only
more urban development.
Japan
We also had a tea tasting ceremony
and a demonstration in traditional cookie
making.
Most interesting to me was a knife
making shop that was owned and run by
a long generation of sword makers. The
pleasant husband and wife greeted us
with warm inviting smiles and gave us a
tour of the small production shop in the
back.
They explained the whole process of
knife making had changed little over the
centuries. They made everything from tailor's scissors to sushi chef knives and every
samurai style sword which were all on display and for sale.
Tokyo
The Great Shinkansen
The Shinkansen, also known as the bullet train, was first introduced in 1964. This
Japanese state of-the-art transportation
masterpiece remains a symbol of national
pride.
With much excitement we entered the
Osaka train station to take the train to
Yokohama. Like a little kid I marvelled at
the sleek aerodynamic bullet trains that
came and went on other platforms. With
but a few minutes to spare I had to run to
a different platform to take pictures of one
that was stationed.
Our train would arrive and depart at
the exact times announced! No time deviations were permitted. Our train would
bring us from Osaka to Yokohama at an
astonishing 300 k/h. Even at this speed
the ride was smooth enough that many of
the passengers were able to sleep in their
ever comfortable airplane style seats.
Osaka
Yokohama
Osaka, Japan's third largest city is laid
back compared to Tokyo. After pleasant
conversations with several of its' citizens,
my impression was that they thought of
themselves as having a good living with
all of the modern amenities yet at a slower gentler pace. Many Oskaians eat out as
often as six times per week.
Even though the city was hit hard during World War II there is still a balance
between modern and historic buildings.
Most notable is the contrast between the
Umeda Sky building with its' futuristic two
tower glass facade and Osaka Castle that
was rebuilt to a smaller scale than its'
original from 1586.
One outstanding feature was the great
pedestrian streets that seemed to go in all
directions and are mostly covered to protect pedestrians from the elements. With
the little time I spent in Osaka I was able
to see the many stores that lined this area,
but unfortunately did not buy many souvenirs here.
Yokohama is Japan's second largest
city. A large earthquake in 1923 destroyed
95% of the city and WW II bombings
again destroyed more than half the city.
Today the city is as modern as any to be
found in Japan.
No first time trip to Japan would be
complete without a stop in Tokyo and this
would prove to be a great city to end my
trip. I would find out that there is nothing
like this capitol city. What stood out the
most is how clean the city was, the incredibly efficient subway system and the people, lots and lots of people, crowding
every street.
The Ginza District
With so much to do and see I decided
that I wanted to get a small feel of the different parts of Tokyo. The Ginza district
located in central Tokyo was my first destination. I visited the five-floor Sony house
to see the latest new electronic marvels, a
Nissan show room that had an amazing
high-end luxury sports car, and shopped
at the classic Tokyo Mitsukoshi department
store and its Kimono department and
sampled its' exquisite food department.
Luckily, I also managed to get in to the
Kabuki-za theatre to experience a traditional Japanese play that is known for the
stylization of its drama and for the elaborate costumes and make-up.
I visited many other important and
interesting districts: East Shinjuku where I
Travel Insurance Claims Corner
A young man went to Nagano, Japan for a ski trip, when an accident occurred
in which he broke his leg in several places, leaving him hospitalized.
Total Bill for the Claim
Provincial Government Coverage
$ 22,000 CAD
$
825 CAD
Japan
was mesmerized by all the colourful, huge
neon lights and signs, Shabuya district
where I saw more young people than on
most university campuses, the electronic
district of Askaska where just about everything electronic (old and new) can be
found and Ropponigi, the restaurant and
music district.
Fashionable Tokyo
It is quite conceivable that Tokyo is the
most fashionable city in the world. Its people are all well dressed, carefully choosing
and paying attention to their appearance.
Men are more conservative while the
women dress up for an evening out all the
time.
Senso-ji Temple
The Senso-ji temple in northern Tokyo
is the city's most sacred and spectacular
temple. The many buildings in the complex were all in traditional Japanese style.
I spent a long time in this area and
although there were many people it still
had a serene feeling.
The incense burner was a focal point
and was constantly surrounded by people
fanning smoke all over them to keep them
healthy. In the main hall there was a ceremony going on as I was able to see and
hear it but unfortunately its purpose
remains a mystery to me. I also witnessed
many locals going through their prayer rituals.
In the same area was the Nakamisedori, which had many small shops selling
traditional wares. This was the perfect time
for me to catch up on my souvenir buying
for family members including fans, combs
and even antique Sake bottles.
Tokyo Hilton
My stay while in Tokyo was in the Tokyo
Hilton situated in the West Shinjuku-Ku
district; a stone throw away from the
Tokyo Metropolitan Government building.
This district was extremely clean, quiet and
safe and was near two major subway lines
that made getting around Tokyo very easy.
A private hotel shuttle ran by every
twenty minutes between the hotel and the
Shinjuku subway station, which is the
worlds busiest train station with two million people passing through it every day.
This was a great bonus as the hotel kept
me away from the noise and congestion
but the shuttle kept me close to it all.
I had a spectacular view of the whole
area from my 18th floor window. Office
buildings filled the skyline. It was especially striking at night as they illuminated the
night sky.
My best meals while in Tokyo were had
at the hotel. The breakfast buffet served
American style foods but also had some
traditional Japanese cuisine. This was a
great way to start the day.
By far the most memorable lunch was
at the Musashino Japanese restaurant.
Our personal chef prepared the fresh vegetables, rice and a Shabu Shabu (beef
hotpot) meal on a grill right in front of us.
The well-decorated restaurant and relaxed
ambiance added to the delight of the
experience.
Call Sue at Ogilvy & Ogilvy
514-932-8660 or [email protected]
We have the best rates!
Berry music, young rock and roll
13
bands playing their hearts out, rappers, techno rockers… no this was
not Central Park in New York but a weekly
event every Sunday where the people of
Tokyo gather to let it all out! Yoyogi is a
must visit place for seeing the other side
of Tokyo.
As with any great city and country,
three days in Tokyo and ten days in Japan
is not nearly enough time to experience all
its pleasures and culture. It was all I could
do running around just to get a taste of
this world-renowned city and country, tasting just enough to know that I wanted to
return. I was already planning the trip on
the plane home!
If you go:
Japan National Tourist Organization
481 University Avenue, Suite 306
Toronto , ON M5G 2E9
Tel.: 416-366-7140
www.jnto.go.jp
Tokyo Hilton
www.hilton.com or
www1.hilton.com/en_US/hi/hotel/TYOHIT
W-Hilton-Tokyo-hotel/index.do
Sunday in Yoyogi Park
A walk in this park is unlike any other
park experience. At the entrance to the
Yoyogi Park is a kaleidoscope of sounds
and music; middle aged men dressed in
fifties style clothing dancing to Chuck
14
Mongolia
On the Steppes of
Eastern Asia
By
By Erez
Erez Gordon
Gordon
[email protected]
M
ention Mongolia and it conjures up images
of fierce warriors ranging across Asia and
Eastern Europe on horseback in a dominating display of imperialism.
The unification of the country's various warring tribes
in the 13th century created a culture that remains easily identifiable today, despite centuries of Manchurian
rule and a more recent dose of heavy-handed Soviet
influence.
Geography explains much of this, since landlocked
Mongolia lies between the two powerful nations of
Russia to the north and China to the south.
See Mongolia on page 15
Photos: Erez Gordon
Mongolia
15
Ulan Bataar
The capital Ulan Bataar or UB City, as
locals refer to it, is a product of
Mongolia's recent dalliance with the former USSR and its own unique history. In
general, the architecture consists of simple
concrete buildings with little adornment,
except for the odd propagandist mosaic
depicting moments in Soviet history.
Scattered amongst these prosaic structures are traditional Mongolian nomad
huts called gers, with their folding timber
frames and felt walls. Able to be constructed in an hour and dismantled in half
that time, gers remain a potent symbol of
a persistent Mongolian culture.
Mongol Empire
Genghis Kahn who was responsible for
the strength and success of the Mongol
Empire, created an army feared for its
ferocity and admired for its horsemanship.
No other mounted force could match the
Mongols in skill and strategy. A visit to
Mongolia must therefore include at least
some horseback riding.
The tourist information centre in the
centre of Ulan Bataar put me in touch with
a local guide, Oyunbold, who met me at
my hotel with a torrent of American
English and a denim-clad swagger.
Nadaam Festival
Oyunbold is a new breed of Mongolian
and a product of his country's recent history. His English is courtesy of working with
Americans stationed in Mongolia, while he
credits the Russians for his general education. He also confided that he is rather
good with horses, having been raised as a
herder's son and competing in the
Nadaam festival as a child.
This festival is held each year on July
11, also known as Revolution Day, when
Mongolia celebrates its independence
from China. The day is marked by a series
of horse races, each over 30 kilometres
long, and only employing child jockeys.
Despite the obvious dangers and the
often-resulting fatalities of both horses and
jockeys, Oyunbold sighed wistfully at the
memory of his youthful participation in the
races.
Zaisan Monument
Our first stop before leaving UB City
was at the Zaisan Monument for a small
dose of Mongolian irony. The Russians
constructed this highly stylized memorial to
its fallen soldiers on a southern hilltop
overlooking the city.
16
Mongolia
Part of the monument is a fascinating
account of Soviet achievement, told in tessellation or overlapping tiles. It depicts
broad-shouldered cosmonauts, grim-looking soldiers and indomitable women.
More interesting is the makeshift
Shamanistic shrine called an ovoo at the
rear of the monument.
Gorkhi-Terelj
National Park
Leaving the UB city limits, we drove
through a brown dusty landscape only
recently exposed by the melting winter
snows. A half hour later we turned north
and entered the Gorkhi-Terelj National
Park. Almost immediately we dropped into
a valley of green pastures at the foot of
conifer-covered slopes.
With the dramatic change in landscape
came evidence of rural life. Clusters of
gers lay in open fields, smoke rising from
their chimneys. They were surrounded by
small herds of livestock. Mongolians tend
sheep, goats and horses, as well as
Bactrian camels, the two humped variety.
A herd of shaggy-haired yaks ambled
across the road, forcing us to stop.
As we headed down a rutted, muddy
track toward a collection of gers and cattle
corrals, Oyunbold yelled out the car window until an old man appeared wearing a
traditional del, a long coloured robe tied
with a bright wide sash. A cigarette rolled
from newspaper hung from his lips.
As master of the farm he would happily
hire out his ponies for 3000 togrogs
($2.50 US) per hour. I was invited to wait
inside his family's ger.
Entering a Ger
Mongolian Ovoos
An ovoo is a mound of stones with a
timber pole at the centre to which are tied
multi-coloured prayer flags. Mongolians
visiting an ovoo will walk around it three
times in a clockwise direction adding a
rock with each circuit.
During the 1930's, the Stalin-influenced
Mongolian communist government did its
best to eradicate religion by destroying
hundreds of monasteries and murdering
thousands of monks. As the USSR disbanded, Mongolians quickly reverted to
their old ways and erected a number of
these ovoos.
Oyunbold circled the ovoo three times
praying for a safe journey and once we
were back on the highway heading east
out of the city, I understood why. The main
road was nothing short of abominable.
Pot holes and cracked bitumen made driving in a straight line impossible and at
times left me gasping as we swung out
into oncoming traffic to avoid another
chasm.
Mongolia is filled with ritual and custom and being invited into a ger can be a
complicated experience, as your host will
take the idea of offering you hospitality
quite seriously.
There are a number of things to know
before stepping inside. First of all, you
must enter a ger forwards and exit backwards. Secondly, while inside the ger,
always move in a clockwise direction,
never lean on the centre pole, never point
your feet at the altar or icons and only sit
where you are told to.
In such a small space, there is a strict
demarcation between areas for men,
women and visitors. Thirdly, you will be
fed and you must not demur. There is no
need to eat everything, but a small nibble
of each item should be enough to satisfy
your host.
Tea & Biscuits
I was shown to a low stool. The old
man sat on his bed with arms akimbo,
reminding me of Yul Brynner in 'The King
and I', while his wife presented me with
some boortsog and Mongolian milk tea.
Boortsog is a dense flour biscuit cut into
various geometric shapes and fried in the
fat remaining in the pan from cooking
meats. It was easy to imagine how a diet
of boortsog might see you through a
Mongolian winter, when the temperature
falls below -40 Celsius.
To wash this down, Mongolian milk tea,
Suutei Tsai, is served in tin bowls. This is
made with brick tea and cow's milk. Salt is
added, as well as a dollop of butter to
enrich the flavour.
Also on the table was a semi-hard curd
cheese made from 'first milk'. This airdried cheese uses the first milk of a cow
that has recently calved.
The ger was warm inside thanks to a
central wood-fired stove and decorated
with a mixture of the old and new world
Mongolia
17
artefacts. It was obvious that living in a
portable felt hut did not require going
without the convenience of a television or
microwave oven.
Riding through the
Steppes
The old man's son Miga arrived with
the horses and I prudently confessed my
inexperience. A quick conversation in
Mongolian followed and it was agreed
that Miga would accompany me at an
extra cost. I happily agreed.
I needn't have worried. During the
entire time, my pony barely rose to more
than a trot. Actually, riding through the
Mongolian countryside at walking pace
allowed me to absorb the cinematic scope
of my surroundings.
Miga and I rode through barebranched woods along dried riverbeds
filled with worn boulders. Flat white sheets
of the past winter's ice and snow still covered the banks.
We ambled past resting cattle, ger
farms and out onto a grassy plain in a
wide valley set between snow-capped
peaks.
On the horizon, a dray pulled by a
team of four galloping horses passed by.
For the rest of the time, the only sounds I
heard were the steady hoof-falls of our
ponies and the regular sharp 'choo'
sounds Miga made to goad them along.
A Proud History
For two hours astride my swaying saddle, I felt the Mongolian terrain rise and
fall beneath me. I sensed the power of the
landscape and marvelled at how the
steppes of Eastern Asia remain to this day
the cherished home of a nomadic people
living harmoniously with such extreme
physical and climatic conditions.
To ride a horse in Mongolia is to delve
a little deeper into the true Mongol nature
and I highly recommend it. Mongolians
may have rushed headlong into the 21st
century but they have defiantly brought
their proud history and unique culture
along for the ride.
For More Info:
Mongolia Tourism
Websites: www.mongoliatourism.gov.mn
www.travelmongolia.org
18
India
More than a journey...
A life experience
By Michael Morcos
T
here is a reason why the slogan
"Incredible India!" is used to promote
India. It is because there are literally no
better words to describe this unbelievable country.
My long awaited twelve-day trip through central India was definitely an educational and
enlightening experience. Every day was a new
day of discovery and like a child at the circus
eagerly awaiting the next act I found all my
senses filled. India was more than a vacation
destination, more than a trip… it was a life
experience.
My first guide said, "India is a spiritual journey." That stopped me. It wasn't until my second
guide echoed the exact same words that it
made me want to find out what exactly they
meant.
See India on page 19
India
19
State of Gujarat
Situated on the Arabian Sea in central
India, the state of Gujarat is often overlooked by travellers but there is plenty to
see and do in this hot and arid part of the
sub-content.
Our first day in Ahmedabad would
start with a two-hour car ride to see the
fabulous Modhera Sun temple. Along the
way I was thrilled by the landscape and
rural village life including camel caravans,
goat shepherds and water buffalo ranchers.
The Sun temple was conspicuously
devoid of people. I had this hidden gem
all to myself. Precisely built in an east-west
direction, sunrays would hit the centre of
an inner chamber at high noon everyday.
A large water basin dominated the
area with elaborate carvings in the steps
leading down to the fresh water reserve.
The temples too were decorated with richly
carved images of deities.
Gujarat Step Wells
The Gujarat Step Wells would be yet
another amazing place to visit in the area.
Again, I had this heritage site all to myself.
This football size complex was mostly
underground. Seven stories deep, the red
sandstone walls and pillars had some 800
elaborately detailed carvings all the way
down to the fresh water table.
To my surprise there were other step
wells in the area as we visited one closer
to Ahmedabad. Most step wells were no
longer in use and were now protected as
heritage sites. The purpose of these wells
was to provide a place of rest and replenishment for weary travellers. At the end of
the day they would have a source of water
for washing and drinking before another
day of travel.
Beautiful Art of Dyeing
Indian Cowboy
Lunching at a nearby restaurant, a
group of men dressed in white linens and
turbans congregated in the shaded outdoor terrace. They were having animated
conversations while sipping tea.
This intrigued me enough to ask my
guide for an explanation as to who they
were. 'Indian cowboys' was her response.
That brought a smile to my face.
It seemed that these were local cow
owners (ranchers) that met on occasion to
discuss their affairs. So totally absorbed
were they that I sheepishly interrupted to
ask permission to take pictures and
received a humble welcome to do so.
A side trip to the town of Patan brought
us to a special home of a family that produced silk Patolas (sari) in a traditional
and very labour intensive way. This
process was once common and the people skilled with this craft many but there is
but a couple of families left keeping the
art form alive.
The Patola that was to be weaved by
two different threads both horizontally and
vertically was first dyed with all natural
colours at the precise place the two
threads would meet.
I could not imagine the patience it took
to weave large pieces. Mistakes were not
permitted, as this would render the piece
useless and the months of labour producing the piece lost. Waiting time for a specially made Patola is an astonishing six
years. Again, I was struck by the people's
humility and kindness.
My second and last day in
Ahmedabad, would prove to be very full.
Our morning started at the Siddi Saiyad
Mosque, a very simple building open to
the elements. The most striking feature
was 'the Tree of Life' carving that was
made out of one piece of stone with
extraordinary detail that let light shine
through it.
Also, interesting was the intricately
carved Hatheesing Hindu temple dedicated to Dharmanath. This Hindu temple was
of the Jain sect, a people who believed in
non-violence and were vegetarian. The
most orthodox of this sect would not even
eat potatoes and onions because they
believed it caused great pain to these
plants when uprooted.
Gandhi's Ashram
Having watched the movie 'Gandhi'
before leaving on my trip, I found the
Sabarmati Ashram where Mahatma
Gandhi lived for fifteen years a very interesting place.
Situated in a quiet area by the riverfront, the complex had a museum dedicated to the life of the 'Father of India'. His
cottage was a very simple structure while
his personal room only had a few items. I
also learned the famous 200-mile 'Salt
March' was started from this area.
20
India
Other places of interest visited were
the historical Jami Masjid Mosque which
Sultan Ahmed Shah built in 1423, The
Rani Sipri mosque with its beautiful facade
and slender minarets, and The Colico
museum, a very important textile museum
that housed royal tents, carpets, cloth
paintings and costumes.
The old town found inside the city walls
is a trip back in time with its small streets,
spice market and bazaar atmosphere.
Mumbai
My stay in Mumbai was limited to only
two nights, which is surely not enough
time for this cosmopolitan city, but I still
managed to visit very important and interesting places.
Dhobi Ghat
An interesting visit to the local Dhobi
Ghat (Laundromat) saw many young men
working hard cleaning clothes. Workers
would clean all the clothes individually by
soaking the garment in soapy water and
then beating them on a hard surface.
In a different area the clothes were
placed on lines to be air dried in the hot
sun. This scenario repeated itself many
times over and I could not help but think
how strong and fit these men must be to
do all this manual work day after day
Interesting Schoolhouse
Next to the Laundromat was an oldfashioned schoolhouse. I noted how simple the classroom was and the amount of
primary school students that packed the
small room.
From the tree lined park there were
spectacular views of the Mumbai ocean
front and the boulevard named 'the
queens necklaces' that winds its way in a
semi-circle as far as the eye could see.
Victoria Terminus
The Victoria Terminus was yet another
UNESCO world heritage site in Mumbai
that I visited on the same day. This was a
stunning Victorian Gothic building made
mostly of red bricks but also had stone
carvings, stained glass windows and statues, all exquisitely detailed.
A very unique building, I appreciated
the many arches, oriental style domes and
spires. This busy train station has a mind
boggling 1000 trains and two million passengers go through it daily.
Oval Ground
While inching along in the late afternoon traffic I was intrigued by an extra
large field where many young men were
playing cricket.
Elephanta Island
A 45-minute boat trip from the Mumbai
harbour brought us to Elephanta Island to
see a remarkable UNESCO world heritage site.
The cave temple that is dedicated to
Lord Shiva was located 125 steps up a
steep hill where many exquisite statues
were etched right into the mountain. I
marvelled at the details in the many huge
art pieces that depicted the Hindu god
Shiva in many well-known Hindu stories.
Shamefully, Portuguese soldiers used
these masterpieces for target practice and
broke many statues. The three-headed
Shiva statue Mahesamurti, the largest
sculpture, found in the back of the cave
was spared due to it being concealed
behind large wooden doors.
Boys and girls shared wooden benches
and worked harmoniously with each other.
I lingered watching them smiling as I did
so, remembering my own early school
years when life was much simpler and the
world was an innocent place.
Hanging Park
The city water reserve was found at the
highest point in Mumbai. It also doubled
as one of the city's best-kept parks.
This area was in the more affluent part
of town as apartments were beyond the
affordability of even most westerners.
India
In haste I asked my driver to pull over
and I dashed through the cars to witness
India's most popular sport being played by
tomorrow's stars.
With the British style architecture of the
Bombay high court and the Bombay
University towers as a back drop, palm
trees lining the perimeter of the grounds,
the ever enthusiastic amateur players
played in the hot sun. It felt like a quintessential Mumbai moment.
Gandhi's Bombay Home
In as little as two days I was now visiting the second place of residence of
Gandhi. Like his home in Ahmadabad, his
living quarters were very simple and were
kept just as he had lived.
A small room with a balcony had only
a frameless thin bed, a small table and
his famous spinning wheel. This was yet
another lesson learned about the simple
life.
Madhya Pradesh
The State of Madhya Pradesh located in
central India has much to offer the visitor
and like the state of Gujarat, it too is often
overlooked.
This state has two mountain ranges
and prides itself on having some of the
most forested areas in India including two
national parks teaming with wildlife
including the Indian tiger.
In my new area of discovery I would
visit among many things a memorable
temple in Indore, the great Stupa of
Sanchi, the Bhimbetka caves and experience the easygoing atmosphere of
Bhopal.
band must be disposed of properly
21
and not just thrown away. This
meant throwing it into a certain
specific river for example. I have not disposed of mine as yet. I still wear it to this
day.
Another very interesting place I visited
in Indore was the Central Museum with a
superb and diverse collection of Indian
and Western art. Lalbag Palace was very
impressive in its interior structure, particularly the grand ballroom.
Kanch Mamdir Temple had an amazing
interior made of small coloured glass
pieces and small mosaic mirror pieces
that gave off a surreal feel while in there.
The old town is a fascinating place to walk
around at night and is famous for street
food and gold and silver merchants.
To Be Continued
Join us again in our summer issue as
we continue our journey through India visiting such places as Sanchi, Bhopal, Delhi
and Agra.
Indore Temple Experience
If you go:
The Khajrana Ganesh Hindu Temple in
Indore was a far different experience than
my earlier visits to the previously mentioned sparsely populated temples.
I could not believe the amount of people here and it was only mid-week! I later
found out the numbers swell up to 20,000
people on the holiday.
The large temple area had many smaller places of worship, each one with a different Hindu god. In each one I was greeted with smiles and given small gifts.
In the main central temple I was honoured to meet the main Guru who waved
me over past the guards. He first placed a
large fresh flower reef around my neck,
then sweets in my hand and finally tied a
cloth band on my wrist.
I found out from my guide this was the
band of god and it would help me attain
my goals. I was also informed that this
India Tourism
60 Bloor Street W. Suite 1003
Toronto, ON M4W 3B8
Tel.: 416-962-3787
[email protected]
www.incredibleindia.org
22
Chicago
America’s
Remarkable
Windy City
By Mike Cohen
Photos: Illinois Tourism & Chicago
Convention & Tourism Bureau
[email protected]
T
he Windy City of Chicago, located on the southern
shore of Lake Michigan, is a bustling, energetic place
that never stops, no matter the season. It's a destination with world-class cultural attractions, diverse neighbourhoods and a wealth of architectural wonders.
Chicago is widely known for its critically acclaimed restaurants, world-famous museums, first-class shopping, adventurous nightlife, action-packed sporting events and thriving theater scene.
See Chicago on page 23
Chicago
23
Vibrant Theatre
Chicago's theatre industry pushes the
envelope with cutting-edge performances
on historic and state-of-the-art stages.
The Chicago Theatre Goodman,
LaSalle Bank, Cadillac Palace, Auditorium
Theatre of Roosevelt University and the
Ford Center have made visiting the city's
downtown core a must for theatre lovers.
Applause, Applause!
Distinctive theaters can also be found
throughout Chicago's neighborhoods.
Theatres like the Steppenwolf and The
Second City are woven into the fabric of
local districts, solidifying Chicago's reputation as a world-class theatre destination.
Until I visited this exciting Midwestern
city for the first time, I always thought one
had to travel to New York City to see true
Broadway productions. Was I wrong!
A Wicked Success!
Wicked, the Broadway musical phenomenon telling the previously untold
story of the Witches of Oz continues to
cast its spell on Chicago audiences in an
unprecedented run at the Ford Center (24
W. Randolph Street).
This wildly popular production by its
Chicago cast opened in June 2005 and
has since become the city's longest running Broadway musical.
The ticket hot line of 'Broadway In
Chicago' (the portal for many of the city's
theatres) is 312-902-1400.
Tickets can also be obtained online at
ticketmaster.com.
In the Navy
Millennium Park
Navy Pier is the city's lakefront playground and the state's most popular destination, offering visitors a unique blend of
activities for individuals, couples, families
and groups.
This is a must-see attraction!
Chicago's most recent global icon is
Millennium Park, which opened in 2004.
The 24.5-acre park became an instant
world-class attraction and Chicago landmark.
It contains an outdoor performing arts
pavilion, an indoor year-round theatre, a
restaurant, a skating rink and a contemporary garden.
This remarkable park also features
public art, fountains, a promenade area
for special events, landscaped walkways
and lots of lush green spaces.
Other Chicago Must-sees
Other Chicago must-see sights include
Buckingham Fountain at Grant Park, the
Hancock Observatory and the view from
the Sears Tower Skydeck.
A Myriad of Museums
The city is world-renowned for its
diverse museums, which explore a variety
of subjects including Chicago history, fine
arts, African-American culture, astronomy,
natural history and much more.
Visitors should plan on spending quite
some time at the Museum Campus.
24
Chicago
This scenic lakeside park offers convenient direct access to the Adler Planetarium
& Astronomy Museum, the Shedd
Aquarium/Oceanarium and the Field
Museum of Natural History.
Something for Everyone
Other premier Chicago museums
include the Chicago History Museum (the
city's oldest cultural institution); McCormick
Tribune Freedom Museum (Chicago's latest museum); the Museum of Science and
Industry; the DuSable Museum of AfricanAmerican History; the Art Institute of
Chicago (recognized as one of the world's
leading art museums); the Museum of
Contemporary Art and the Museum of
Contemporary Photography.
Outstanding Attractions
In addition to world-renowned museums, Chicago is home to a variety of
spectacular attractions. The Chicago
Cultural Center is described as a "neoclassical masterpiece" that features two
art-glass domes and glittering mosaic
walls.
The many galleries in the Cultural
Center exhibit local contemporary art as
well as notable works of artists hailing
from around the world.
Six Flags Great America
Six Flags Great America (www.sixflags.
com/greatAmerica) is located in Gurnee,
Illinois, half way between Chicago and
Milwaukee.
The 31-year-old park, which is open
May through October, boasts eight
themed sections, a 13-acre water park
called Hurricane Harbor, three especially
themed children's areas and various other
forms of family-oriented entertainment.
There are 13 roller coasters, including
everything from traditional woodies to a
bone-rattling hypercoaster.
Altogether the park boasts over 75
rides and attractions. If you purchase a
special flash pass, you will have the benefit of not having a long wait in line for
some of the more popular rides.
Unique Architecture
Visitors from around the world come to
Chicago, the birthplace of the modern
building, to admire its architectural marvels. From historic landmark buildings to
contemporary technological masterpieces,
Chicago is built in the unique and innovative designs that have shaped American
architecture.
Chicago is home to the world's first skyscraper designed by William Le Baron
Jenney in 1885.
Although his Home Insurance Building
no longer stands, Chicago is today the
home of three of the world's 10 tallest
buildings including the 110-storey Sears
Tower (the tallest in North America), which
opened in 1974.
Other landmark buildings include the
Chicago Cultural Center, completed in
1897 in the Beaux Arts style; Adler and
Sullivan's 1889 Auditorium Building; and
the Art Deco era Chicago Board of Trade
Building, designed by Holabird and Root
in 1929.
Extended Stays
When visiting Chicago for an extended
stay of 10 nights or more like we did, you
will want to find accommodations that are
comfortable, affordable and conveniently
situated.
Homewood Suites (www.homewoodsuiteschicago.com) is located right in the
heart of downtown at 40 East Grand
Chicago
25
Avenue. Guests can overlook Chicago's
well-known architectural landmarks while
enjoying their daily complimentary 'Suite
Start' hot breakfast or the 'Welcome Home'
reception, featuring a complimentary light
meal including beverages, on Monday
through Thursday evenings.
With the hotel's fully equipped kitchens
in every suite, you can enjoy all the convenience and comforts of home during
your entire Chicago stay.
Dining Out
Right next door to the Homewood
Suites is the best restaurant in town. In
2000, Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone
Crab™ (www.icon.com/joes) opened its
doors in Chicago.
The Chicago Joe's builds upon the
grand tradition that began in the Miami
Beach dining establishment of the same
name in 1921 by adding a uniquely
urban twist to the dining experience.
The restaurant's signature dishes of
stone crab claws with mustard sauce and
bone-in filet mignon are both exceptional
but Joe's also features an extensive selection of fresh seafood, flown in for the
restaurant on a daily basis.
Excursion to Lisle
If you are in Chicago during the summer, another "must" excursion is to the
Village of Lisle. In the Lisle Park District
(www.lisleparkdistrict.org) you will find Sea
Lion Aquatic Park, one of the most attractive water-feature facilities I have ever
experienced.
It boasts two exhilaratingly fast, steep
body flume slides and two drop slides. Its
Teen Leisure Pool is designed for ages 12
and up and its baby pool and sand play
area features age-appropriate interactive
water play activities for children aged five
and under.
There is even a mini-lazy river and an
outdoor Jacuzzi. What a perfect place for
a family outing!
The River Bend Golf Club (www.riverbendgolfclub.org) is just down the road at
5900 S. Route 53.
Rated as one of the top three nine-hole
courses in the state of Illinois, it is also
home to a great dining spot, The View
Restaurant & Bar.
Second to None
After visiting Chicago, most would have
to admit that this fascinating and entertaining city is second to none!
For More About Chicago
Chicago Convention & Tourism Bureau
2301 S. Lake Shore Drive
Chicago, IL 60616
Tel.: 312-567-8500 Fax: 312-567-8533
Website: www.choosechicago.com
26
European
Family
Vacation
The Dream Comes True
By Natalie Ayotte
T
he thought of a family vacation to
Europe would always excite me. My
husband and I talked about such a trip
for the past decade. Our kids Mathieu 17 and
Jasmine 15 were getting to the age where they
would soon start summer jobs or plan trips with
friends..
We had to do it. It was now or never. After
much reading and researching we decided on a
three-week vacation in France, Monaco, Italy
and Greece.
See Europe on page 27
Europe
Planning Ahead
Looking for suitable family accommodations was at times a frustrating exercise
especially in cities that we knew little
about. We needed to find hotels in Paris,
Nice, Florence and Athens.
We finally decided we would stay at
one hotel chain. The Best Western chain of
hotels website made it all easy. We
returned to the same site many times to
get more detailed location info including
maps of each hotel and all their amenities.
Once we chose the hotels we wanted,
the actual booking took less than fifteen
minutes.
We decided against renting a car for
transportation. We thought the conveniences of having our own car was outweighed by the stress of getting in and out
of these congested cities, compounded by
the fact that parking in these cities is not
always easy.
We felt the best way to travel the long
distances was by using the efficient railway
systems in France and Italy with a convenient Eurail pass for each person.
Paris
Four days was surely not enough for
this magnificent French capitol but by following my husbands' agenda we would
see the city's most important sites. Our first
destination was on everyone's list: The
Tour d'Eiffel.
We opted to walk to the site and with
a city so steeped in history it was
inevitable we would get sidetracked. Along
the way were the Champs-Élysées and the
many stores that lined this magnificent
landmark boulevard.
Our daughter Jasmine, a wallet full of
Euros in her pocket, had to stop along the
way to spend money. Our son Matt found
his own favourite stores while my eversmiling husband took pictures and videos
of the well-dressed Parisians socializing at
the outdoor cafes.
As for me, I simply stood there, eyes
closed for a moment, overwhelmed by the
sudden realization that our dream was no
longer a dream, but reality! I opened my
eyes, and watched my family scurry about,
content.
27
Arc de Triomphe
Onward we strolled until we reached
the Arc de Triomphe. What a sight! There
was so much to see at the monument but
time was running late and my husband
said we had to move on and so, we were
unable to give the Arc the proper attention
it deserved. However, just standing under
the massive structure that is such a recognizable Parisian landmark was quite a
thrill!
Eiffel Tower
The Tour d'Eiffel was now in sight.
Winding our way through the small side
streets, we would get teasing glimpses of
this giant, growing ever bigger as we
neared. We were so excited at the thought
of finally arriving that we almost missed
the superb Palais de Chaillot. Determined
not to get diverted again we snapped off
dozens of pictures and ran to our final
destination.
Getting to the top of the Eiffel Tower
was an experience in itself. There was a
two and a half hour line up for the elevators and so with a deep breath, we
resolved to climb the steps! 328 steps up
to the first level and 340 steps up to the
second level! Catching our breath we
looked up to incredible views of Paris and
its many landmark buildings.
The Tower was built for the World's Fair
marking the centennial celebration of the
French Revolution but was not always so
welcome. The Parisians at the time found
it an eyesore against the Paris skyline, so
much so that they had made plans to
demolish it after the Fair!
Alexander is a work of art disguised as a
bridge. Unbelievable statues line the two
sides.
We went through Place Vendome where
Jasmine and Mattieu argued playfully as
to what to do next. Jas wanted to shop
some more at the upscale shops and Matt
wanted to get back to the hotel to get
some rest. At a stalemate, they looked to
my husband and myself. It was no contest.
Matthieu won.
Whirlwind Tour
The following days we would see a lot
more of Paris including the world class
Louvre museum, the historical Notre
Dame Cathedral, the department store Le
Printemps, La Madeleine church, Le
Opera, Le Quartier Latin, the Les Halles
district and day trip out of the city to see
the awe-inspiring Château de Versailles.
Côte d'Azur
France's TGV or high-speed train
whisked us quickly and comfortably from
northern France to the warmer climate of
the French Riviera.
Parisian Promenade
Tired from the climb we decided to
walk back to the L'Horset Opera hotel,
near the Paris Opera house. Of course,
Paris being the city it is, one cannot take a
walk without coming across ever more
landmarks. We walked along the Parc des
Champs des Mars at the end of which is
the Ecole Militaire, one of the most prestigious French military academies in
France.
We cut through les Invalide where
Napoleon's remains rested. The Pont
28
Europe
Nice would be our base city for the next
three days as we planned to take day trips
from there to see Monaco and the always
charming village of Saint-Paul de Vence
Our hotel, The West End Hotel was in
the heart of it all and faced the
Mediterranean Sea.
We changed gear from the hectic pace
of Paris and instead spent many relaxing
moments just sitting on the balcony listening to the waves crashing on the beach or
watching the locals walking the Avenue
des Anges (Angels).
Nightly walks along the waterfront and
dining on the pedestrian streets were a
welcome change to the marathon tour of
Paris.
I could understand that they were exhausted by the over charged program but I
secretly suspected Matt wanted to check if
the girls really did sunbathe topless.
I was not sure what to expect from this
trip but my husband assured me this was
a recommended site in our guidebook. I
was not disappointed. It was love at first
sight! Small winding cobblestone streets,
beautiful little boutiques, coffee houses
and quaint restaurants all made for a
romantic day away from the kids.
Venice
Monaco
The Principality of Monaco, a constitutional monarchy, made an everlasting
impression on us all. Even at a glance,
Monaco was stunning. Our day here
turned out to be one of my favourites of
our whole vacation. We started our day on
top of the hill, giving a perfect view of the
many twisting city roads and the luxury
yachts in the aqua-blue harbour.
We slowly made our way to the centre
of town to the Casino Royal. Matt was very
excited by the many expensive cars that
filled the streets. It seemed there were
more high-end luxury convertible cars
than Matt could possibly photograph.
Our walk brought us to another hill,
this one with the Royal palace perched on
top offering a spectacular 360-degree
view. I found myself daydreaming while
looking out at the beautiful city of Princess
Grace and the fairy tale Royal family.
Saint-Paul de Vence
Jas and Matt opted to spend the day at
the beach while my husband and I took a
bus to the medieval hill town of Saint Paul.
Our over night train trip to Venice
would have been the perfect comedy
show. Although our cabin was clean and
comfortable it was obviously too small for
a family of four. Loaded down with lots of
luggage and newly bought items our
sleeper was tight but we made the best of
it. It wasn't much of a laughing matter at
the time, but I sit here chuckling at the
memory.
Venice was like a post card. We all
marveled at its beautiful canals and small
allies. Gondolas and small boats carefully
navigated the quiet waterways as we
crossed the many bridges that spanned
this island city on our way to the lagoon
area.
Hot and crowded with tourists we
spent the day doing what most tourists do,
sightsee. Our first stop was the Piazza San
Marco and the nearly thousand-year-old
cathedral that contained his remains.
We took a well-needed rest at the three
hundred year old landmark Caffè Florian.
Jas could not believe how many pigeons
filled the enormous square. She tried to
feed them and they jumped all over people in order to get to her while Matt conversely found it amusing to chase them
away and see a cloud of pigeons fill the
sky.
The brief visit brought us to the Rialto
Market. Merchants sold everything from
tourist souvenirs, to finely made Venetian
glass and carnival masks to vegetables
and even the days catch in the fish market. Below us was the Grand Canal, the
biggest waterway in Venice; it looked like
rush hour in Manhattan on water!
Florence
The city of art was now our base for
three days, as we would explore the
province of Tuscany. We all had wished we
had more time in Florence.
My husband wished we had more time
at the Uffizi museum to see the many
other renaissance masterpieces that filled
the city. Jas could not get enough shopping for fashionable Italian clothing.
Europe
Mat wanted more time to eat the
famous Tuscan beefsteaks while I wanted
a break from it all and just people watch
while sipping a cappuccino in this great
Italian gem.
Our hotel Lauras was perfectly situated
in the heart of the city and we would walk
to the main sites. Our visit brought us to
the Piazza della Signoria where amongst
many incredible gems was Michelangelo's
colossal statue of David. Also close by was
the fantastic Ponte Vecchio bridge. The
famous 11th century Duomo (St. Maria
del Fiore) was only a block away and was
clearly visible as we sat and had breakfast
on the hotel's balcony on the roof. We
were close to many great restaurants and
the luxury stores on Via Tornabuoni, the
San Lorenzo market and the Santa Maria
Novella train station.
Pisa
Yes, the tower of Pisa was leaning! But
we had to see it for ourselves. Our day
trip to Pisa brought us to the world famous
icon. A beautiful building on its own it sits
in the Campo dei Miracoli or field of
dreams.
We all took turns doing the clichéd
tourist thing: taking individual pictures of
ourselves pushing the leaning tower down.
Unoriginal yes, but fun nonetheless!
Piazza del Campo. Here twice a
year bareback horse races are held
to the delight of the fans filling the
whole square.
29
Rome
Sienna
Our Eurail pass made it very easy for
us to jump on and off trains on local
routes. Sienna was a real delight. Perched
on top of a hill, we found ourselves buying bread, cold cuts and even wine and
having a great picnic in the heart of this
medieval town.
Dominating the city was the Palazzo
Pubblico (town hall), which was built in
1326 and found in the public space
We had but a day to enjoy the eternal
city as we had a plane to catch to Greece.
Rome is a great walking city and our
day started by visiting the incredible
Coliseum and Roman forum. Surprisingly
to me, both Mat and Jas loved the ruins
and I was startled when they started taking pictures.
We slowly made our way towards the
Vatican. No trip to Rome would be complete without visiting the Holy Capitol of
Catholicism. No matter how much you've
read, no matter how much you've heard,
you cannot help but have your breath
taken away when entering.
We followed up with a trip the
Pantheon. The "Temple of all the gods" is
the best-preserved building from Roman
times and had the largest dome in the
world until 1436 when the Florence
Cathedral was constructed.
Close by, we visited the Piazza Navona
with its Fountain of the four Rivers and an
Egyptian obelisk.
We w
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Enter a draw for free night stay and breakfast at www.vacation1000islands.com
30
Europe
The last site of the day was the
Fontana di Trevi. Truly a masterpiece, we
had to wrestle our way through the crowds
to get to the front. Legend has it if you
toss a coin in the fountain you would
return again to Rome. And so we all took
turns throwing coins over our shoulders
into the fountain hoping to one day return
to this great city. After all, a snapshot is all
one can hope for in a day.
Athens
Athens was our last big city before our
seven-day retreat to Crete. Our three days
in Athens were very hot with the temperate
reaching 38 degrees Celsius.
Our days were leisurely spent at the
very impressive National Archaeological
Museum. It houses some of the most
important artifacts from a variety of
archaeological locations around Greece
dating from prehistory to late antiquity.
We were all impressed by the many
well-preserved pieces of artwork. My
favourites pieces were the Antikythera
Ephebe and the mask of Agamemnon.
The following day we visited the
Acropolis, which was situated on top of a
hill in the middle of Athens. A very impressive site it was, filled with tourists and justifiably so. My husband and the kids loved
the spectacular view of Athens and we
took our time while perusing the most
important monuments such as the
Parthenon, the Erechtheon, the Propylaea
and a small temple for Athena Nike.
Our nights were spent at the Plaka
where we enjoyed great food and
shopped for gifts and souvenirs. Mat was
in heaven as souvlaki was the order of the
day, everyday.
The portions were extra large and by
the intense look on his face while eating, I
would conclude very tasty. Jas could not
resist shopping for gifts while I looked to
find that very special gift for my Uncle in
Crete, our next stop.
Crete
In a word… Heaven! The last leg of our
trip was spent like kings and queens. Our
stay would be on a hill top house that was
surrounded by centuries old olive groves.
From the large wrap around balcony we
would enjoy our breakfasts and dinners
with breath taking views of the surrounding countryside.
On one side were the central mountains that showed snow in the winters. The
middle view was of the valley filled with
olive trees and to the left were the crystal
clear blue waters of the Mediterranean.
My Uncle Marcel and friend Emmanuel
were the perfect hosts to a perfect ending
of our European trip. A few years back he
and Emmanuel decided to leave hectic
pace and cold winters of Montreal and
built a small castle like house on family
land. We would spend our remaining days
on the sandy beaches and our nights eating garden grown meals before venturing
into the beautiful harbour cities of
Rethymno and Chania.
rabbits for food. Jas was horrified and
wanted to open all the cages and set them
free. She didn't. However she did spend
considerable time bemoaning their fate.
Europe in our hearts
Until my husband mentioned it, I had
not realized that we had never spent 3
weeks together on vacation. Nor had we
ever spent that long with the kids on vacation. This trip was more than visiting
France, Italy and Greece. It was, as I mentioned earlier, a lifetime dream come true.
A dream shared, a dream fulfilled, with
family. Three weeks spent together, experiencing the history, the culture, and the
beauty of these places. The memories will
last a lifetime.
If you go:
Maison de la France
Tel.: 514-288-2026
www.franceguide.com
Italian Government Tourist Board
Tel.: 416-925-4882
www.italiantourism.com and www.enit.it
Many special moments were had while
in Crete. On one occasion we visited the
oldest tree in all of Greece. The olive
branches from this tree were used in making the victory crowns for medal winners
during the Athens summer Olympic
Games. Equally special was a visit to
Emmanuel's fathers' home where he grew
Greek National Tourism Organization
Tel.: 416-968-2220
www.gnto.gr
Best Western Hotels
www.bestwestern.com
Eurail
www.eurail.com
China National Tourist Office
Tel.: 416-599-6636
www.tourismchina-ca.com

CWT 26 Spring 2008 Issue for web.qxd

Transcription

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