WFN60June-26.06.2016

Web Fragrant Newsletter
The Independent Fragrant NL
WFN 60 June 2016
Content
Fragrant people
Cécile Zarokian
Delphine Jelk – Guerlain
Pierre Guillaume – Parfumerie Générale
Anne Abriat –The Smell&Test Lab
[toPNotes] Nathalie Pichard
Fragrance Training Specialist & Evaluator
Dear Reader,
Enjoy your latest Web Fragrant Newsletter 60!
WFN is free, independent, co-signed by people,
bimonthly, written in English, for professionals
only... And still a pleasure!
Brand sagas
Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger
Diptyque
New launches
Angel Muse by Thierry Mugler
Take Two by Neela Vermeire Creations
Cha Ling l’esprit du thé
Others
See you in September 2016!
New Parisian boutiques
Thanks to Jan Henson (Corporate Trainer-English for Business) for rereading
and Sylvaine Delacourte (Guerlain) for blogging (espritdeparfum)
Emmanuelle Simon, SHOYS New book
We are millions of professionals to work in the beauty industry. Most of us
travel abroad several days a year. A beauty lexicon can help to translate our
exchange with clients. It helps us not to be stopped by a little word which
appears to be key in our conversation . Bloggers, youtubers, Redactor in
chief, millions of students in cosmetic, Export Director, Beauty Trainer, ...
practice several languages and may have a hard time to get the right word.
This lexicon should help you. It will be available mid-may on Amazon. Let's
translate! www.shoys.fr
Trilingual Beauty Lexicon in GB FR SP - Retail suggested price 24,95€
[wfn]
Nathalie Pichard
toPNotes
The Smell&Test Lab by Anne Abriat
■ Fragrant People
Cécile Zarokian
Her name sounds like music. After graduating from ISIPCA, Cécile Zarokian trained for four
years at Robertet, first in Grasse, then in Paris. She was still a trainee when she created her
first fragrance, Amouage Epic Woman. In 2011, Cécile decided to found her own
company, Cécile Zarokian SARL and to set up her laboratory in Paris, to dedicate her entire
time to working freely as an independent perfumer. That's how she has created around sixty
fragrances for various brands of the niche perfumery market, such as MDCI, a new Jacques
Fath Collection (with Green Water from the original formula from in The Osmothèque),
Laboratorio Olfattivo, Masque Fragranze, or the entire Château de Versailles scented candle
collection. Cécile has also developed artistic projects with an illustrator, leading to an
exhibition (part of Les Rives de la Beauté & Esxence 2014).
Delphine Jelk - Guerlain
Delphine Jelk is the new face of Guerlain’s perfumers with Thierry Wasser and Fragrance
Development Director Sylvaine Delacourte. Discreet woman, she had been working in Drom
Fragrances before joining Guerlain in 2014. She has just composed L’Homme Idéal Eau de
Parfum (leathery and gourmand oriental) and La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum Intense
that she describes as a gourmand floral, a mix of the Guerlinade signature and the sweetness
of cotton candy. A whisper before other projects.
Pierre Guillaume – Parfumerie Générale
« My perfumes need skin to express themeselves, they mean nothing without it »
Pierre Guillaume is an independent perfumer. He was born in Clermont Ferrand in France.
He began as a chemist and composed his first fragrance Cozé 02 which was acclaimed by the
small fragrant world of bloggers and specially by NY Times’s Chandler Burr who lauded it.
Pierre Guillaume founded his own fragrance studio in 2010 with a laboratory, a production
facility and expanded his business by acquiring another brand called Phaedon in 2012. He
just launched a new perfume called Le Musc et la Peau 4.1 (musk and skin, a musky woody
composition with a hint of a fougere accord. The perfumer described his perfume as a milk
of white musks (Musc T, Exaltolide, Ambretolide, Habanolide, Astrolide, Fixolide, Velvione)
which could be worn by itself or layered with fresh, aromatic and floral perfumes, to extend
and customize the sillage. The distribution network of the brand is about 250 points of sale.
The Smell&Test Lab by Anne Abriat
Can a familiar smell modulate emotions in menopausal women? How do women under
daily stress perceive the benefits of using fragranced cosmetic product? What is the effect
of age and cognitive development on hedonic responses to odors? How tonus can be
stimulated by an odor? Ask the specialist Anne Abriat! With a very rich career and
experience at L'Oréal, Coty Geneva R&D in various position within R&D and in Marketing for
Luxury Brands then in Innovation for worldwide research, Anne Abriat founded in 2012 “The
Smell and Test Lab”. Anne holds a Master of Sciences in Chemical Engineering and is a
scientific expert in fragrance and sensory for product development & creation, marketing,
technology, training & communication. The company aims to develop new products
capitalizing on technologies and marketing relations, to identify and create olfactory identity
/sensory signature for brands.
Anne has contributed to many publications on olfaction and emotion with CNRS (in France)
and famous worldwide scientists in Neurosciences, she patents research on the benefits of
fragrance in a cosmetic product. She continues to explore the benefits of sensory in beauty
and health for all future development projects.
Should you have a project
related to Innovation in
Beauty, Food or Heath
sectors, please contact Anne
Abriat at
[email protected]
[wfn]
Nathalie Pichard
toPNotes
■ Fragrant What’s up?
Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger
In 2013, Virginie paid tribute to other flowers with the
Collection Les Inédits, made up of 8 raw materials from
the south of France.
Capsule is the latest personal duo of fragrances that
Virginie Roux imagined both for women and men. Liberté
Bohème (green floral) and Poudre de Liberté (woody
floral), in limited edition.
The Maison de Parfum Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger is
a relatively new player in the so called niche brand
market. Indeed, the brand was founded in 1998, by a
passionate couple, Antoine and Virginie Roux, in
homage to their family Provençal roots. La Colle-surLoup, authentic childhood birthplace of the creators, is
the land of the Orange Blossom, the name given to
their Maison de Parfum. Virginie and Antoine Roux
carry on the family heritage which began in 1903 in
flower oils trading. In 2010, after a BtB business, they
decided to launch Collection Néroli Blanc, a dedicated
neroli line enriched by a surprising fresh Néroli Oud this
year.
The fragrances are made in Grasse, by Jean-Claude
Gigodot and Virginie Roux, favoring the best natural
raw ingredients.
Each creation is the result of a creative balance
between simplicity and luxury, truth and tranquility.
The brand is expanding throughout the world,
distributed in independent perfumeries, in 20 countries
with 50 points of sale.
Visit
the
website
with
full
information
www.lafleuroranger.com
diptyque and l’eau des sens
The House diptyque was born in 1961, founded by 3
friends – Christiane Gautrot, Desmond Knox-Leet and
Yves Coueslant (picture) – creating a kind of bazar 34
boulevard St Germain des Prés, of fabrics for upholstery,
scented candles (Aubépine, Cannelle,Thé), home sprays,
inventing a special universe between luxury and
bohemian chic. The brand grew and diversified its
activities by launching personal fragrances (the first ‘eau’
was born in 1968) and a body care line alongside the
classic home fragrances.
The products are imprinted with a distinctive and
particular olfactory signature. In a quest for beauty
without extravagance, with constant attention to detail,
the house celebrates an idea of ultimate luxury, for
oneself and without compromise, which is felt intuitively.
The particular aura of a fragrance is an intimate
experience, designed to evoke a mysterious, yet
strangely familiar world. The graphic, oval logo or
sketches recounting the inspiration of the eaux de
toilette draw an engaging and unique picture.
The new Eau des Sens is a delight for the senses and
quite disconcerting with its woods and spicy notes.
The famous boutique
and the founders
Each citrus fragrance is taken from
the corresponding fruit’s leaves,
flowers and peel to capture its vital
energy as a whole. Neroli is not
separated from its branch, and it
provides extra sparkle and life. And
in its zesty orange gleam, a floral
scent is always present.
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
toPNotes
■ Fragrant Launches
Angel Muse by Thierry Mugler
Something new, yet
familiar which shakes
the codes
A real challenge of recreating ‘addiction’, renewing the gourmand style.
You all remember Angel and its incredible characteristic signature of patchouli, gourmand
caramel and exotic fruits. Its characteristic bottle; its recognizable blue juice. It was a fantastic
fragrant E.T. That was in 1992 and such an OVNI, an intruder in the perfumery world full of
watery notes and new age fragrances. Then Alien came and made its nest in the market with its
jasmine-ambery cashmeran notes. But a new chapter has to be opened…
How to be creative after such strong personalities as Alien or Angel? Givaudan’s Quentin Bisch
has been working on the project and has succeded in mixing both Thierry Mugler’s DNA
(originality, audacity, surprise), Angel’s notes by blending them to something new. The result is
that it smells Angel … and not. An illusion of Angel, but the real Muse. The juice is luminous,
hazelnut, ambery, rooty (vetiver) and not invasive at all. Just there and completely addictive. A
new star in a cosmic pebble to discover and wear.
Take Two by Neela Vermeire Creations (NVC)
Our friend Neela Vermeire has become a real player in the wild world of niche fragrances by
bringing something really original and amazing (Bollywood theme, Indian rituals and spirit).
A collection of contemporary French fragrances was born with the help of the perfumer
Bertrand Duchaufour: Trayee, Ashoka (which won the art and olfaction award in Los
Angeles in 2014), Pichola, Mohur, and Bombay Bling. New launches are coming in the brand:
The Take Two was launched in April 2016 and is available only in only a few stores for the
moment for the 5 perfumes.The idea of the Take Two is to make these fragrances portable
for people to use anywhere and share with their loved ones. They come with two
independent packs inside one bigger pack. Take Two will also enable people to keep the
large NVC flacons at home and have 2 x 15 ml for the handbag, briefcase, gym bag, travel
pouch, toilet bag etc. Such a good idea. Visit the website: www.neelavermeire.com
A take two is made up
of 2X15ml
Cha Ling, l’esprit du thé
Launched in January in Paris at Le Bon Marché, the label was developed by Guerlain CEO
Laurent Boillot secretly over the past three years after he became inspired to create it while
working with environmental activists in Yunnan’s lush Xishuangbanna prefecture. With a
Chinese name that means the “spirit of tea,” the new label offers a range of 40 skin, body,
and face care items infused with top-grade pu’er tea grown in the forests of
Xishuangbanna. The brand combines a focus on the antioxidant and anti-aging properties of
the tea with an emphasis on forest preservation in Yunnan, where natural forest coverage
fell to less than 50 percent by 2003 as environmental protection took a backseat to business
interests such as the rubber industry. Boillot says the new venture is aimed at both profit
and ecology, stating, “everything we do is not only about doing the business, but is also to
give back to nature.”. The refined fragrance highlights subtle notes of tea, floral and woody
musky undertones.
New launches
La Femme Prada & L’Homme Prada, Eau de Rochas Escapade en Méditerranée, revamped Femme de Rochas,
L’Insoumis by Lalique, Le Musc & La Peau 4.1 by Parfumerie Générale, Parfums bdk Paris by David Benedek
Nathalie Pichard
[wfn]
■ Fragrant new Parisian Boutiques What’s up?
- Parfums Memo Paris, rue Cambon inside, outside -
- Guerlain Parfumeur, rue du Faubourg St Honoré -
- L’ Artisan Parfumeur, bd St Germain des Prés -
- Les Parfums de Marly, rue Cambon -
toPNotes