Lofoten Weekend Blueprint (08a)

Weekend Blueprint
Lofoten
Arctic Summer
Contents
Kingdom of Cod
04
A personal view of Lofoten, by Andrew B. Flint
Highlights & Weekend Blueprint
07
A perfectly-planned short break introducing the Arctic’s most bountiful treasure islands...
Accommodation
12
Take your break in style, tranquillity and comfort
Eat & drink
15
Authentic atmosphere, local flavours, outright excellence
Practical details
16
Planning, travel, maps etc.
Location
Norway
Style
Discovery
Setting
Wild
Energy
Moderate
When to go
Summer, autumn (orca safaris)
Bodø
Arctic Circle
Oslo
Top: Mt Rulten, Austvågøya
Front cover: Wildflowers, Flakstadøya. Rear cover: Lofoten Wall from Mortsund, Vestvågøya.
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
2
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Clockwise from top: Vågan harbour, Flakstad beach,
Mt Vågakallen, Trolltinden waterfall, Trollfjord.
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
3
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Kingdom of Cod
Small hours—Mortsund harbour, Vestvågøya
...a personal view of Lofoten, by Andrew B. Flint
Epic cloud-shearing mountains, soaring sea eagles, beaches of powder-fine sand, lush wildflower
meadows, stilt-legged fishing villages, and a millennium of heritage from Viking chieftains to the
doughty fishermen of today. Nowhere else does Europe’s pristine far north offer such a rich diet of unforgettable memories—all, in Midsummer, under the Midnight Sun.
T
wo am. As I put my book
down, the reflection of the
fishing wharf hardly wavers in the mirror smooth
sea. Behind a clutter of
workshops and freezer
plant rise the gnarled contours of a
mountain, piebald in granite and shortcropped grass. Across the harbour the
rust-red clapperboard of the old captain’s
house smoulders in horizontal orangefiltered light. Everything is silent; all totally still. On a perfect Midsummer’s
night, Vestvågøya Island beyond my window rests, suspended in a consummate
state of grace.
“improbable mountains bristle directly
out of the sea”
Terrible beauty
With around 10,000 souls, Vestvågøya is
the most settled of the wild Lofoten archipelago, high up the shoulder of Scandinavia off the north Norwegian coast.
Everywhere the Lofoten landscape is
extraordinary. For almost a hundred
miles, improbable peaks bristle directly
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
4
out of the sea: a magnificent confection
of spires, turrets and crenellations, Disney couldn’t have done better. More interested in safe harbours in the teeth of a
winter gale, Norway’s matter-of-fact sailors refer to the eye-popping beauty simply as “the Wall”. But it is a wall with
chinks, and between the islands, as between the teeth of a comb, powerful tidal
forces sluice the narrow channels with
rips, vortices and whirlpools – including
the original maelstrom.
Unique treasures
Moskenesøya, the southernmost major
island, is where the fantasia of fairy-tale
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
mountain-building reaches its storybook
peak. But each of the others brings unique
charms of its own. Flakstadøya has its
serenity and unspoilt nature, Vestvågøya
its farmsteads and freshwater lakes, and
Austvågøya the roughest, toughest terrain
and the archipelago’s only town.
“corpses hang stiffly like
so many dried wash
leathers”
Gentle pastures
I arrived anticipating rockbound drama,
but my greatest surprise - and delight - has
come from the summer softness. To the
north of Siberia, through winter Lofoten
endures blizzards, polar night and the
wildest of storms. But thanks to the long
reach of the Gulf Stream, the archipelago
can also enjoy summer days of settled fine
weather and daytime temperatures rising
to 20° C or more. By June, meadows of
buttercups and cow parsley counterpoint
the jagged heights, clouds of white arctic
Below: Sandbukta, Ramberg;
Right: Stockfish, Henningsvær
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
butterflies play along the shoreline and
open woodlands of shimmer-leaved
rowan and birch cloak the valley slopes.
Nowhere else in the Arctic does the palette of nature play such a generous tonal
range. The music of Sibelius and Grieg
may roar round the summits, but it’s the
intricate melodies of Liszt and Mozart that
play through the pastures.
Frozen tropics
Lofoten has one further surprise in store.
Along the northern coast, in between
cheerful wooden fishing villages, run a
string of pure silver beaches, ranging from
open strands for striding out to intimate
sheltered coves. Just offshore, the shallows twinkle a piercing turquoise irresistibly reminiscent of far more southerly
shores—an illusion that was immediately
shattered when I dipped a toe: lapped by
the Arctic Ocean, the year round average
water temperature is a meagre 2°C.
Cod-given bounty
While two degrees might sound uninviting
to you or me, the rich food churned up by
the strong currents makes the waters between Lofoten and the mainland heaven
for Arctic cod, which migrate here in huge
numbers from January to March.
For over a thousand years fishermen
have followed to harvest an annual bounty
5
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
of rich fishy protein. Faced with the
problem of how to preserve and transport the seasonal glut, early on they
struck on the solution of hanging the
decapitated and gutted raw fish out to
dry in the open air on great wooden Aframes of lashed poles.
The chill prevents the fish from spoiling, and after two or three months the
dehydrated husks can be stacked like
wrinkly sheets of card and stored almost
indefinitely. When needed, these
“stockfish” can simply be soaked in water until softened – aficionados maintain
that a good hammering improves the
texture further – and used as a flavoursome addition to stews and casseroles.
Peanut stew
To this day, the Lofoten economy is underpinned by stockfish exports – mainly
to Italy, where it is sold as top-grade baccalà. Ranged on frames around every
fishing village thousands of corrugated
cod corpses hang stiffly like so many
dried wash leathers. Surprisingly, there is
usually next-to-no smell. The exception I
discovered yesterday, when exploring the
furthest reaches of the little port at Mortsund. Hidden away from the eyes of casual visitors were racks of desiccating cod
heads, mouths grotesquely agape. These,
it’s fair to say, gave out an almighty pong.
(Reluctant to let all that decapitation effort go to waste, Lofoten fishermen years
ago discovered a ready market in West
Africa, where dried cod heads - minus
the tongues, which the Norwegians keep
for themselves - are the key ingredient in
a popular peanut stew. Yum!)
Stilted lodgings
To encourage the stockfish trade (and
increase his tax take), in 1120 Norwegian
King Øystein ordered simple huts to be
built to accommodate the itinerant fishermen. Called rorbuer, these were the first
permanent buildings on Lofoten (and in
the whole of Arctic Scandinavia). While
fishermen still come to Lofoten each
“In 1120 ...King
Øystein ordered simple
huts to be
built...rorbuer”
Top: Traditional Nordland fishing boat, Mortsund;
Below: rorbuer
looking out across a tiny fishing harbour.
As to the time, travelling to Lofoten has
realised two long-held ambitions. Crossing the Arctic Circle was accomplished
around 36,000 feet, but seeing the Midnight Sun has taken a little longer. However, a short while earlier on, after walking up to the rocky bluff above the rorbu,
I was watching from the granite as the
liquid disc of the sun sank slowly to its
lowest point, lingered a lengthy moment,
and then started its daily climb to tomorrow—all the time bathing me in its soft
golden rays. It was a priceless experience,
and rich reward for a couple of hours lost
sleep.
© A.B. Flint.
winter, many rorbuer have more recently
been converted for use by visitors. Although usually fairly spartan, their spectacular coastal locations – often on
wooden stilts right out over the water –
makes them an authentic and very atmospheric holiday base.
Sleepless sun
Which, to come full circle, is why I am
sitting by the window of a pine cabin
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
6
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Leitet, Vestvågøya
Highlights
& Weekend Blueprint
From your base in a comfortably modernised overwater fisherman’s cabin, sample the contrasting delights of the main islands under a 24/7 sun—old-time fishing villages and the most scenic view in Norway
on Moskenesøya, wildlife and untrammelled beaches on Flakstadøya, Viking roots brought alive on
Vestvågøy and cruising between snow-capped peaks from Austvågøya. Come late autumn, Lofoten
offers an entirely different speciality—orca watching by boat, Zodiac or even snorkelling.
Weekend Blueprint—London departures
(All very subject to weather—rearrange as required to optimise!)
Thursday
Lunchtime flight to Leknes via Oslo and Bodø, arriving evening. Pick up hire car at
airport for drive to rorbu accommodation. Settle in and relax. If self-catering, bring supper for first night with you or eat out.
Friday
Moskenesøya: Scenic drive to the end of the road and the car-free village of Å. Visit the
Norwegian Fishing Village and/or Stockfish museums for some cultural background, or
just soak up the idyllic setting. Late lunch at Reine’s Gammelbua restaurant. Catch the
afternoon mail ferry (departs Reine 15:00) for a stupendously picturesque circuit of
Reinefjord. On the way home, stop off at Hamnøy for more fishing village views and
supper at Hamnøy Mat og Vinbu.
Alternative: Drive to Reine in time to catch the morning mail ferry (10:00). Disembark
at Vindstad for the easy hike to Buneset beach. Return Reine on afternoon ferry (15:30).
Saturday
Vestvågøy & Austvågøya: Short drive to Utakleiv. Walk round the headland to sandy
Haukland Bay, completing the circuit by tunnel. Lunch in Storvågan (Lorchstua Tavern)
or Svolvær. Afternoon round-trip boat cruise (13:30, 15:00 & 16:00) to Trollfjord passing Lofoten’s most rugged mountainscapes (or visit Storvågan museums). Side-trip driving home to Hennngsvær to take in the atmosphere and dinner at Fiksekrogen. After
late night or short kip, head out once more on foot or by car to view the Midnight Sun.
Sunday
Flakstadøya: Late morning start—drive to Nusfjord to enjoy the old-time trappings and
postcard-perfect setting. On the return to the main road stop to admire the fantastic
mountain bowl of Stjerntinden mirrored in Storvatnet lake. Cross the double bridge to
Ytresand beach and walk along the coast to the abandoned Mulstøa farmstead. (If wet,
substitute a visit to Vestvågøy’s Lofotr Viking Museum.)
Monday
Late morning flight home via Bodø and Oslo, arriving London late afternoon.
‘Stay-Put’
Itinerary
The main itinerary shows off the best of the archipelago over a short break. If you prefer to concentrate on a single area, I suggest basing yourself in Reine (see Accommodation Picks) and focussing on Moskenesøya and Flakstadøya islands. Thurs—flight and
transfer; Fri—explore Reine, Å and Hamnøy; Sat—11:00 ferry to Vinstad and hike to
Buneset beach (15:30 return ferry), or adventure Zodiac trip to Hell via the Maelstrom,
midnight sun at Ytresand; Sun—as for main itinerary; Mon—airport and flight home.
Regional & Irish
Tailor the London blueprint to suit your specific requirements.
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
7
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Highlights
1
THURSDAY PM
Scenic Flights
By European standards the journey to
Lofoten is a relatively long-haul. But
make the most of it—from Oslo onwards, you cruise above some of the
most stunning scenery in Europe.
On the leg to Bodø you shadow
Nordland’s sublime fjord-indented
coast, overfly the Svartisen icecap—
and cross the Arctic Circle. Switching
to a cloud-hopping Dash 8 prop for
the final up-and-down into Lofoten,
enjoy unparalleled views of the looming Lofoten Wall as you skim the icy
waters of the Vestfjord. Tip: left-hand
window seat out, right on return.
2
ALL WEEKEND
Overwater Rorbuer
Lofoten’s accommodation of choice,
the simple rorbu cabin, brings you
right up close and personal with the
islands’ rich heritage. Often still in the
middle of picturesque working fishing
harbours, the best overhang the sea
on long wooden stilts.
Wake up to a traditional wooden
fishing boat chugging along outside
your window, linger late into the night
as the Midnight Sun bounces off the
calm reflective water. Although relatively spartan, the unadorned pine
walls, floor and ceiling, and stout castiron stove, will keep you snug and
cosy in your authentic home-fromhome—just like the seasonal fishermen who came before you.
3
FRIDAY AM
Å—Village & Museums
Named for the last letter of the Norwegian alphabet, the last,
end-of-the-road village in Lofoten is clustered around a highly
photogenic creek squeezed between two rocky bluffs. Paths
through verdant wildflower meadow reach the spindly-legged
rorbu crowding the water’s edge, while round about more
substantial offices and sheds of weather-beaten clapperboard
contain the period exhibits of the Norwegian Fishing Village Museum. At the creek’s mouth a red-planked wharfside
warehouse is home to the pungent Lofoten Stockfish Museum—a chance to taste Lofoten’s most celebrated export.
Don’t miss the superb view of the Maelstrom and Værøya
island from the headland a short walk beyond the car park.
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
8
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Highlights
4
FRIDAY PM
Reine & Reinefjord
Voted the most scenic location in Norway, the landscape here is Wagnerian
in its majesty: a ring of shark-toothed
mountains patched with summer snow
encircles the deep clear waters of an
almost land-locked fjord. On a spit at
its mouth, the village of Reine is a
confetti of red-walled rorbuer—some
turf-roofed—amongst a smattering of
traditional wooden houses, a store and
a little church on the hill.
Take the pint-sized mail ferry for a
close-up circuit of the fjord, or get off
at the isolated hamlet of Vindstad for
the easy 50 min walk along a track to
fabulous Buneset beach. Also sea
trips by inflatable from Reine to Hell
and back through the Maelstrom with
Mosktraumen Adventure.
5
SATURDAY AM
Utakleiv & Haulkland
The end of the world is how it feels, and
with next landfalls Spitzbergen or
Greenland, it pretty much is. Utakleiv is
a primeval place. Lost in a grassy mountain bowl, its handful of brightly-painted
houses do nothing to disturb the solemn
grandeur of its broad Arctic Ocean bay
and the mighty headlands beyond.
Walk the old road round the point at
the bay’s leftmost tip for heart-stopping
views all the way to the virgin soft white
sand of Haulkland beach. To complete a circuit, short-cut return through
the road tunnel (little traffic, fully lit, no
fumes and lots of clearance, tunnel
880m—15 mins walk).
6
SATURDAY PM
Trollfjord Cruise
Twice a day, in a space not much wider than a football pitch,
an ocean-going liner executes a neat three-point turn between
walls of granite two thousand feet high: Trollfjord is one of
the highlights of the unique Hurtigruten steamer service that
runs the length of Norway’s coast. But it’s not just the big
ship that visits. From Svolvær several operators, including
Lofoten Charterbåt and Kabelvåg Turbåt (MS “Trolltind”),
run 3 hour cruises (buy tickets quayside). Along the way, the
boats thread the scenic strait between Lofoten’s highest, wildest mountains—Mt. Rulten is especially spectacular—and a
series of quiet forested islands, lush with shoreline meadows.
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
9
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Highlights
7
SUNDAY AM
Nusfjord
Regarded by some as the essence of
Lofoten, the isolated fishing hamlet of
Nusfjord sits at the mouth of a narrow fjord facing a wall of glowering
rock. Skirting a small inlet, the ring of
rorbuer and boatsheds shares the limited flat ground with a miscellany of
old buildings, including general store,
run as a museum. The drive passes the
chiselled granite bulk of Mt. Stjerntinden–simply awesome reflected in
birch-fringed Storvatnet lake.
8
Mulstøa walk
A magical coastal walk to an abandoned
farmstead and cove, gloriously sited below
a line of beetling cliffs .
From the car park at the far end of
Ytresand’s enticing silver-sand beach take
the path dropping towards the waterline.
It gets quite rough for a short section before striking an old grassy cart-track. This
leads round the headland to drop to Mulstøa (40 mins each way). A good walk for
wildlife—I was rewarded by three soaring
sea eagles and an otter, its pelt shiny black
from the water.
SUNDAY PM
9
NIGHT
Midnight Sun
Between 29 May and 13 July the sun never sets
on Lofoten, but instead circles low on the
northern horizon before beginning to rise.
Not just a novelty, during the small hours the
islands are raked by the most incredibly soft
supersaturated light—wildflowers are vivid, the
sea a metallic blue; hillsides are yellow with pasture, purple with rock and white with glistening
snow; the sun itself burns with sunset and dawn
combined.
Daylight is guaranteed, but catching midnight
sunshine requires luck (fair weather) and flexibility (to drive to a gap in any clouds). Myrland
(Flakstadøya) is a wonderful secret spot, but the
bluff at the Mortsund rorbu can work well too.
10
(Milford Sound it’s not). But the cruise there and back is emphatically worthwhile: superb mountain- and seascapes. For all
its undeniable beauty, Nusfjord’s commercialism—you pay a
(modest) fee to enter the village—grates slightly, and the tavern
is oddly soul-sapping. Much-hyped, Kabelvåg can safely be
skipped, as can most of the islands’ craft shops and galleries.
Need to know
See Travel choices for orca safaris. Unless you coincide with the
Hurtigruten acrobatics, Trollfjord can seem a tad anticlimactic
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
10
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Clockwise from top: Utakleiv wildflowers, Gimsøystraumen bridge, Lofotr Viking
museum, Eggum head, Lofotr Viking museum, Reinefjord ferry, Øyhellsundet passage.
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
11
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Accommodation
...where to stay in style and comfort
Nyvåger Rorbuhotell
Need to know
• Lofoten’s accommodation speciality
is the rorbu—the traditional fishermen’s cabin. Some are refurbished
originals but increasingly rorbu are purpose-built for visitors. Originals have
the patina of history and often place
you in the thick of the community,
purpose-built complexes may have
more scenic settings and (sometimes)
slightly better amenities.
• In season, rorbuer are generally let
with a minimum stay of 2-4 nights.
Double beds are a rarity and many
complexes have a two bedroom minimum size (but let to couples).
Statles Rorbusenter
A.B. Flint Choice
Statles Rorbusenter (Mortsund)
(Modest; 54 rorbuer (1-3 bedrooms)). In a
tranquil and picturesque corner of Vestvågøy Island, 15 mins drive from Leknes
airport, the simple rorbuer of this unpretentious family-run complex make a convenient Lofoten base.
Set on either side of a granite headland
crowned by the reception office, shop
and restaurant, the complex’s 54 rorbuer
are arrayed in two clusters. Within the
mouth of Buksnesfjord, stilted cabins fan
out over tidal rocks in a splayed (and
highly photogenic) semi-circle, with more
substantial blocks of group accommodation set back from the shoreline. On the
far side of the headland further rorbuer are
grouped in blocks of three or four along
the wooden wharves of the Statle family’s
own little fishing harbour—delightfully
positioned at the foot of a precipitous
pocket mountain and screened from the
open sea by a muddle of rocky skerries.
A family enterprise since the 1960s,
the current Statle family matriarch is a
dominant but very friendly hands-on
presence.
Each rorbu is constructed in pine,
painted traditional rust-red on the exterior and left undecorated inside. A living
room with kitchenette along one wall is
complemented by functional bedroom(s),
bathroom (shower only) and hall with
space for wet clothes to dry. Furniture—
pine again—is simple: a couple of tables,
chairs, an old sofa and beds. The kitchenette comprises sink, cupboards and
cooker (no dishwasher or microwave)
with a basic set of pans, crockery and
cutlery. Some rorbuer have an old cast iron
stove in one corner, all have efficient
central heating. Without a style statement
in sight, the rorbuer nonetheless offer adequate comfort, if not luxury, for a short
stay.
Guests come from a wide range of
European countries as well as Norway,
many having driven from their home
countries. On some nights there may also
be a coach party staying in the group
accommodation blocks.
Housekeeping is only at the end of
each stay (cleaning charge) but reception
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
12
•Cooking facilities are generally adequate for simple self-catering but kitchenettes are by no means lavishly
equipped. Most complexes have a restaurant (of variable quality)—usually
offering breakfast buffet and dinner.
• The accommodation is fairly simple—although not unduly so. With a
couple of exceptions, the style and
standard of furnishing, and overall level
of comfort, is remarkably uniform
across the different rorbu complexes.
• When choosing your rorbu consider:
• Location: Do you want to explore
the whole archipelago?—in which
case Statles Rorbusenter is handily
central, or focus on one area, eg.
Moskenesøy?—in which case Reine
Rorbuer are hard to beat.
• Setting: stunning views and total
tranquillity, a bustling fishing harbour with lots to see, or the convenience and amenities of a town?.
• Individual cabin: try to secure sea
views, overwater—or waterfront—
situation and private deck.
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Accommodation
Extra-Comfort Choice
Statles Rorbusenter—view from rorbu
are helpful in advising on things to do
and weather forecasts.
In keeping with the rest of the complex the restaurant is functional. A filling
Nordic breakfast buffet is a good way to
start the day. But unless you’ve just got
off the plane and are ready to flop, you
can do better eating elsewhere or selfcatering for dinner.
Facilities: Cycle hire, rowing boat hire,
fishing, marked hiking trail, sauna, launderette, shop (very basic), restaurant,
parking. In midsummer the midnight sun
can be seen to spectacular effect from the
bluff outside reception.
Room recommendation: Try for rorbu
19 when booking (1 bedroom) - overwater setting and harbour views from
two sides of living room.
Statles Rorbusenter, N-8370 Leknes, Lofoten,
Norway
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Nyvågar Rorbuhotell (Storvågan)
(Expensive; 30 rorbuer (2 bedrooms)). Lofoten’s most upmarket rorbuer boast a fantastic setting on a sheltered arm of the
sea facing the jagged crown of Mt.
Vågakellen.
Each purpose-built two-storey cabin
contains a living room with kitchen area,
bathroom and two bedrooms. Although
following the universal Lofoten theme of
pine construction and simple furnishing,
the interiors are unusually clean and airy
with modern kitchen units and reproduction Scandinavian cottage-style furniture
in good-condition. Rugs and drapes lend
a touch of softness.
Built along the rocky shore in a double
line, the cabins in the front waterfront
row are best—opening directly onto the
wooden deck and offering pristine views
from the living room.
Prices include housekeeping and
breakfast served in the adjacent hotel
building. Partly overhanging the water’s
edge, and built from timber in a traditional gabled design, the hotel block has
been fitted out in an attractive contemporary country style, lending a relaxed
modern feel. The upstairs library is especially appealing, with great views from
the porthole window.. Even if it’s only
repro-flummery, the downstairs ‘tavern’
is richly salty with its charts, sailors’ knots
and snug wooden booths. In summer,
you can sit outside on the deck for drinks
and snacks—a great spot to contemplate
the beauty of Lofoten glass of wine in
hand.
Reception is efficient if slightly lacking
in warmth. On my visit the behind-thescenes staff recovered the situation well
when a minor problem arose. Housekeeping is rigorously spick-and-span.
Nyvågar Rorbuhotell also makes a
comfortable base for autumn orca safari
breaks.
Facilities: Restaurant, bar, library, business centre, sauna, fishing, parking.
Room recommendation: Make sure you
get one of the waterfront rorbuer.
Nyvågar Rorbuhotell, Storvåganveien 22, 8310
Kabelvåg, Lofoten, Norway
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Further options of interest
Statles Rorbusenter—breakfast buffet
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
Reine Rorbuer (Mid Price; 22 rorbuer (1-4
13
Sakrisøy Rorbuer
bedrooms)). It would be hard to find a
more scenic spot than this. Fringing the
tip of the peninsula on which the village
of Reine sits, the rorbuer look out over
sea, fjord and an explosion of vertical
snow-capped mountains. Reine itself is a
hugely appealing place, perfect for an
evening stroll—the village’s grassy green
is a mere minute away, the boats bobbing
on the jetties a moment more.
All 22 rorbuer are renovated 19th century originals, a few with traditional turf
roofs intact, the best on stilts over the
sea. The cabins are graded according to
comfort, but all follow the standard Lofoten pine design—albeit the nicest
jazzed up by rugs, chests and home-spun
nic-nacs. Some have additional sleeping
in upstairs lofts.
With friendly service and a high standard of upkeep, this makes an excellent
choice if you want to base yourself on
Moskenesøya. Unfortunately in peak
season it often books up months ahead.
Facilities: Restaurant, bar, boat hire,
cycle hire, parking (2 mins walk).
Reine Rorbuer, 8390 Reine i Lofoten, Norway.
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Sakrisøy Rorbuer (Modest, 11 rorbuer.)
Located on a miniscule islet in the mouth
of Reinefjord (linked to the mainland by
bridges), Sakrisøy’s ochre-painted rorbuer
have considerable charm.
Ranged along the shore beyond a row
of venerable fish-drying frames, the
painstakingly restored cabins have a
strong aura of authenticity. Several still
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Accommodation
possess extra fishermen’s cots suspended
from the gabled ceilings, and a small
wooden former fish factory—now genteelly dilapidated and a favoured nesting
spot for seagulls—stands just a couple of
steps along the waterfront deck.
(Presumably, however, the neat tubs of
flowers brightening each rorbu doorway
are a later addition.) Family-run, very
friendly and especially tranquil despite the
road running nearby (out of sight).
ber frames for drying cod and thickets of
colourful summer wildflowers, the traditional red rorbuer offer good views across
Svolvær harbour. Inside, the layout is the
standard rorbu living room/kitchenette,
bathroom and bedroom combo with
simple but adequate pine furnishing.
Friendly reception is handled in the island’s time-warp shop. Svinøya is a convenient base for autumn orca safaris,
which leave from Svolvær harbour.
Facilities: Boat hire, cycle hire, small
café, parking.
Facilities: Restaurant, fishing, motorboat
and kayak hire, parking.
Sakrisøy Rorbuer, Boks 113, 8398 Reine, Lofoten, Norway.
Svinøya Rorbuer, Gunner Bergs vei 2, PO Box
74, N-8300 Svolvær, Lofoten, Norway
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Nusfjord Rorbuer (Mid Price; 36 rorbuer (1-4 bedrooms)). A museum-piece fishing village, Nusfjord has over 30 waterside rorbuer. A few face the main fjord but
most are packed tightly round the crevice-like inlet at the heart of the community—at day’s end usually clogged to
bursting with small fishing boats and the
occasional yacht.
With the whole settlement covered by
a strict preservation order, all of the rorbuer are authentic, though most have
been renovated inside to meet modern
comfort levels. (A few, in the satellite
hamlet of Vika around the headland,
have been only lightly restored and offer
a trapdoor in the floor in place of the
more usual toilet—the ultimate heritage
experience for die-hard purists!)
Nusfjord also contains a shop, pub
and several historic buildings connected
with the fishing industry. It should all add
up to a fantastic atmosphere, but it came
across disappointingly lifeless when I
visited—perhaps it was just an off day.
Henningsvær Bryggehotell (Mid Price;
31 rooms). With big picture windows letting in lots of light, contemporary Scandinavian interior, and a prime quayside
location, this hotel in one of Lofoten’s
buzziest—a relative word—fishing villages is worth considering if you don’t
want to go down the rorbu route.
The restaurant’s decent (and the harbour views better), the lounge snug, and
the bedrooms modern. Reception is efficient—if low on smiles—and everything
is well looked-after.
Facilities: Restaurant, bar, lounge, fishing, parking.
Henningsvær Bryggehotell, N-8312 Hennignsvær,
Lofoten, Norway
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Rica Hotel Svolvær (Mid Price; 147
rooms). Much the best hotel choice if you
need to be based in Svolvær and most
Facilities: Tavern (food), shop, free use
of rowing boats, marked hiking trail,
parking (short walk).
convenient jumping-off point for autumn
orca-watching.
Squarely mid-market, this rather winning hotel nonetheless has a couple of
major advantages. First, its location is a
plum: its own little island in the middle of
Svolvær harbour (linked to town by short
bridge) puts it just 3 minutes walk from
the harbourfront main square, but lends
sweeping harbour views and real peace
and quiet. Second, the architects have
capitalised on the setting, placing many of
the rooms rorbu style out over the sea on
wooden piles, and putting the dining
room and upstairs lounge bar into a great
glass ship’s prow to enjoy floods of light
and absorbing harbour views.
The hotel’s bread-and-butter business
comes from business travellers, tour
groups and coach parties, but the staff
still manage a warmth that goes beyond
the Nordic norm.
Facilities: Restaurant, bar, parking.
Rica Hotel Svolvær, Lamholmen, NO-8305
Svolvær, Lofoten, Norway
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
N.B.
Amongst the accommodation options
that didn’t make my selection are Finholmen Brygge Hotel (Henningsvær), Best
Western, Thon, Norlandia Vestfjord
and Aurora Hotels (all Svolvær),
Kabelvåg Hotell (Kabelvåg), Norlandia
Lofoten Hotell (Leknes) and Å, ÅHamna, Ytterviks, Henningsvær and
Anker Brygge rorbuer
This is not necessarily an adverse reflection on standards as my choices are
based on many factors including location,
ambience, quality within class, service,
facilities and my personal taste.
Nusfjord AS, 8380 Ramberg, Lofoten, Norway.
Booking—see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Svinøya Rorbuer (Svolvær) (Modest; 30
rorbuer (1-3 bedrooms)). Pulling off the neat
trick of appearing a haven of rural calm
10 mins walk from the centre of Lofoten’s only town, these rorbuer are clustered
around the northern tip of Svinøya island—the site of Svolvær’s original foundation, before it migrated to the mainland
at the end of the 19th century.
Now a true backwater, backed by timLOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
Hotel prices: Budget: below £60, Modest: £60£100, Mid Price: £100-£140, Expensive: £140-200,
Premium: £200+; prices are per double room at the
time of year and type of room (standard unless
specified otherwise) recommended. Prices are for
guidance only, please check with hotel for further
details.
Rica Hotel Svolvær
14
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Eat & drink
...authentic atmosphere, local flavours, outright excellence
Fiskekrogen
Fiskekrogen (Henningsvær)
(Expensive). Nationally renowned for its
fish soup—a bowl of creamy richness
with fat chunks of cod, this contemporary quayside restaurant housed in a refurbished fish factory is one of Lofoten’s
swankiest eating places.
The kitchen offers an ‘Arctic menu’ of
mainly seafood regional specialities, but
you won’t go far wrong sticking to more
mainstream treats—such as a hefty plate
of expertly cooked cod served with
creamed mash. Efficient service comes
with a smile. In fine weather you can also
eat on the outdoors deck. Reservations
advised peak times.
Restaurant Fiskekrogen, N-8312 Henningsvaer,
Lofoten, Norway
Booking: t (+47) 7607 4652
Hamnøy Mat og Vinbu (Hamnøy)
(Mid Price). Charmingly rough-hewn, family-run tavern squirreled away off a backstreet (signed from main road).
Fashioned from a former general
store, the tiny cabin-style interior
squeezes a handful of candle-lit tables
and short bar within its red-planked
walls, there’s more space outside on a
large deck (but no view).
Homestyle cooking such as boiled
potatoes and carrots with a mound of
eggy fishcakes—some of the best I’ve
ever tasted—are served to a mix of locals
and visitors in the know. Popular just for
a few beers too. Due to popularity and
cupboard-sized kitchen, service can be
slow at times. Reservations strongly advised.
Hamnøy Mat og Vinbu, Hamnøy, N-8390
Reine, Lofoten, Norway
Booking: t (+47) 7609 2145
Lorchstua
Gammelbua (Reine) (Expensive). On a
sunny day the place to be is the front
terrace of this traditional eatery looking
out over Reine’s grass-covered green. If
the weather doesn’t oblige, the pine interior is pleasantly cluttered with an oldtime feel. The short menu features such
exotica as boiled seagull eggs with
smoked salmon, but there’s more normal
stuff in there too. A traditional—and
delicious—Norwegian afternoon treat is
waffle with cream and jam. Open MayAugust only. Reservations advised dinner.
Gammelbua, Reine Rorbuer, N-8398 Reine, Lofoten,
Norway
Booking: t (+47) 7609 2222
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
Lorchstua (Nyvågar Rorbuhotell)
(Expensive). Exceptional views to spearthrust Mt. Vågakallen, tranquil waterfront
setting and open-air deck make this upmarket hotel bar and restaurant a congenial spot for a drink or meal.
Friendly staff deliver the kitchen’s
modern cooking presenting simplytreated, locally-sourced ingredients—
Lofoten lamb is a seasonal speciality—as
either full meals or lighter snacks. The
tavern bar has more atmosphere than the
larger restaurant.
of regional specialities, including stockfish and cod tongues, served up in a bustling and convivial atmosphere. It’s all a
bit of a burlesque—but enjoyable nonetheless. Evenings only. Reservations essential.
Børsen Spiseri, Gunner Bergs vei 2, PO Box 74,
N-8300 Svolvær, Lofoten, Norway
Booking: t (+47) 7606 9931
Duverden (Svolvær) (Expensive). Stylish
modern pizzeria, café and restaurant in
slick glass-fronted premises facing the
harbour just steps from the main square.
If you’re looking for something bright,
young and contemporary—but still
smart—this is the place. Cooking from
award-winning chef, Roy Berglund, produces skilful international-style seafood
dishes prettily presented, and hardly a
weird Nordic ingredient in sight. Restaurant evenings only. Reservations advised.
Duverden, J E Paulsens gate 12, N-8300 Svolvær,
Lofoten, Norway
Booking: t (+47) 7607 7099
22, 8310 Kabelvåg, Lofoten, Norway
Ramberg Gjestegård (Ramberg) (Mid
Price). Filling a gap on the map, it’s useful
to know about this simple restaurant
catering mainly for campers. In a chalet
building that feels like a cross between a
retro-canteen and wooden village hall, it
serves up hearty Norwegian cooking
from a menu that’s rather heavy on
whale, but with other stuff available as
well.
Booking: t (+47) 7606 9700
Ramberh Gjestegård, N-8380 Ramberg, Lofoten,
Norway
Lorchstua, Nyvågar Rorbuhotell, Storvåganveien
Børsen Spiseri (Svolvær) (Expensive).
Svolvær’s most popular dining spot is
tucked away on Svinøya island in a threestorey white clapperboard building with
its feet in the harbour. Inside the cosy,
low-ceilinged stone and wood dining
room—decked out as a 19th century
fishermen’s tavern—guests enjoy a menu
15
Booking: t (+47) 7609 3500
Restaurant prices: Budget: below £5, Modest: £5£10, Mid Price: £10-£15, Expensive: £15-25, Premium: £25+; prices are for typical main course at
dinner. Prices are for guidance only, please check
locally for further details.
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Vitting, Vestvågøya—under Midnight Sun
Weekend planning
Planning checklist
Weekend basics
Break length
Off work
Flight (London)
Transfer
4 nights
3 days
6 hr 45 min (via Oslo & Bodø)
15 mins (car)
Before departure you will need to arrange...
Time zone
Currency
Paperwork
UK+1
Kroner (£1 = 11.7 NOK approx.)
Passport (UK & Irish citizens)
To check prices and build your own weekend,
see www.WeekendBlueprint.com.
Price
Summer—from £560 per person
(Statles Rorbusenter/SAS).
• Flights (Thurs out, Mon back)
• Accommodation (4 nights)
• Car hire
When to
go
Heathrow, Manchester
Departures
5
0
20
Max/Min 10
Temp °C 0
-10
Books & maps
Rain
(mm)
Recd. Guide
Norway, Lonely Planet
Recd. Map
Lofoten Turkart 2549 (Statens Kartverk)
R
24
Daylight
Hours/day 12
0
J F M A M J
Weekend Read Cod, Mark Kurlansky
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
120
80
40
0
16
J A S O N D
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Travel choices
For current best prices and to book, see www.WeekendBlueprint.com
Lofoten airports
Regional & Irish options
The Lofoten islands are served by two airports. Leknes is
centrally placed in the middle of the chain on Vestvågøy
island. This is the most useful airport for Vestvågøy,
Flakstadøya and Moskenesøya islands. The other airport is
Svolvær, at the northern end of the chain. Svolvær is the
natural gateway if you will be based on Austvågøya island—for
example, for an autumn orca safari break.
Manchester. Through-booked tickets on Widerøe to Leknes
and Svolvær daily via Oslo and Bodø. Carbon Offset: 300 kg
of CO2, cost from £2.25 pp (www.carbonneutral.com).
On arrival
Airport Transfer. There are no public transport services to
or from either Leknes or Svolvaer airports. Taxis are available but expensive. It is therefore best to arrange car hire
pick-up from the airport on arrival.
London departures
There are no direct flights between London and Lofoten. The
usual way of travelling is to fly to the regional mainland hub of
Bodø with SAS (change of plane in Oslo). From there, you
catch one of the small prop planes operated by Widerøe (a
Norwegian subsidiary of SAS) for the short hop out to the
islands.
Through-booked tickets between London and Lofoten are
available online from Widerøe (but not SAS). For technical
reasons it is often cheaper to buy two one-way tickets (ie.
London to Lofoten, and Lofoten to London) than a roundtrip ticket. This also allows a better selection of flights. When
travelling to Norway all hold baggage must be customs-cleared
at Oslo before being re-checked for onwards domestic legs.
Car Hire. Europcar, Avis and Hertz are represented at Leknes and Svolvær airports. Europcar offers a useful out-ofhours pick-up service.
Public Transport. Unless staying in Svolvær or Reine, public transport is not seriously practical. Although most communities are served by bus, there are often only one or two
services a day off the main E10 route.
The twice-daily Reinefjord mail ferry makes an excellent
sightseeing trip. More functionally, there are car ferry links to
the mainland from Moskenes to Bodø and Svolvær to
Skutvik. There are also daily ferries from Moskenes to the
outlying Lofoten island of Værøy. The celebrated Norwegian
coastal steamer, the Hurtigrute, stops at Svolvær and
Stamsund (on Vestvågøy).
Carbon Offset: London-Leknes—300 kg of CO2, cost from
£2.25 pp (www.carbonneutral.com).
Orca safaris. The Lofotens are one of the best places in the
world to watch orcas (killer whales) at close quarters. The
whales stay in Lofoten waters from late October to January.
During much of December and January, however, the
Lofotens experience Polar Night (no true daylight). The best
time to plan an orca-watching trip is therfore late October or
early November.
Orca safaris are promoted by Orca Lofoten, a joint
marketing operation for Lofotferga, Lofoten Charterbåt and
Lofoten Explorer. The first two companies operate
conventional boat-based orca cruises. Lofoten Explorer
offers trips in high speed Zodiac rafts, either as a stand alone
or as an add-on to the conventional big-boat cruise. For the
thrill-seeking hardy it also offers snorkelling with orcas.
Orca-watching packages last from 3 hrs to a full day.
Scheduled trips run from Svolvær harbour on Fridays and
Saturdays. Whilst out, you have a good chance of spotting
sea eagles. If the weather’s clear you also have a shot at
seeing the Northern Lights. Please note that this information
is from third party sources, I have not personally been on an
orca safari. For contact info see www.WeekendBlueprint.com.
London flight recommendations
LHR = Heathrow
Outbound to Leknes (Thurs)
From
Dept Arr.
SAS to Oslo
LHR (3)
13:05 16:20
SAS to Bodø SK4122
Oslo
17:15 18:40
Widerøe to
Leknes
Bodø
21:00 21:25
Return from Leknes (Mon)
To
Dept Arr.
Widerøe
WF806
Bodø
11:00 12:00
SAS
SAS
SK4111
SK809
Oslo
LHR (3)
12:40 14:05
15:10 16:25
SK806
WF816
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
17
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
LOFOTEN ARCTIC SUMMER W/E BLUEPRINT
1
2
Værøya
© AB Flint
18
Å
Moskenes
6
Hamnøy
4 5
Reine
Sørvågen
7
Napp
Myrland
Mortsund
Ballstad
Ure
Leknes
14
15
Henningsvær
Vågakallen
(943 m)
Laukvik
17
(1146 m)
19
20
Skrova
Kabelvåg
Svolvær
18
Melbu
Litlmolla
Stormolla
Rulten
(1062 m)
3. Å museums
8. Buneset beach
13. Haukland & Vik beaches
2. Hell (abandoned village)
15. Lofotr Viking Museum
1. Maelstrom
9. Mulstøa (abandoned farmstead)
7. Reinefjord (mail ferry circuit)
17. Storvågen museum & aquarium
21. Trollfjord
10.Ytresand beach
See & Do
E10
Fiskebol
Austvågøya
Vestfjorden
16
E10
Gimsøya
Eat & Drink
20. Børsen Spiseri
18. Duverden
16. Fiskekrogen
4. Gammelbua
6. Hamnøy Mat og Vinbu
17. Lorchstua
11. Ramberg Gjestegård
Stamsund
Valberg
Vestvågøya
Borg
Eggum
Sleep
16. Henningsvær Bryggehotell
12. Nusfjord Rurboer
17. Nyvågar Rorbuhotell
4. Reine Rorbuer
19. Rica Hotel Svolvær
5. Sakrisøy Rorbuer
14. Statles Rorbusenter
20. Svinøya Rorbuer
Key
13
Utakleiv
Unnstad
Ocean
Arctic
12 Nusfjord
Stjerntinden
(934 m)
Ramberg
Sund
E10
11
Flakstad
Moskenesøya
3
(1029 m)
Vindstad
8
10
Fredvang
9
Flakstadøya
Lofoten Islands
21
10 km
Trollfjord boat trips
Digermulen
N
Hinnøya
Maps
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
Miscellanea
Weekend Blueprint?
Who is A.B. Flint?
Weekend Blueprint is a small and enthusiastic business designing boutique, ready-planned weekends for travellers to book
for themselves using leading online travel agencies and other
best-value suppliers. The service saves time and money, and
offers a growing range of extraordinary short break experiences.
Some people love cars, others horses, a few even grow marrows. For me, it’s travel – always has been, always will be. But
it’s not enough to go and come back. I need to tell the world
what’s out there: the smells, the sounds, the adventure. I also
want, in some small way, to help people understand other
cultures and, in doing so, perhaps to look again at their own.
(Go on a long enough journey and the strangest sight you’ll
see is your own homecoming front door: familiar but strange,
you’ll notice the number is crooked, but also see anew the
prettiness of the fanlight stained glass.)
In 25 years and more of travel I've been lucky enough to
savour some of the most intense experiences this planet has
to offer - whether searching out the Ark of the Covenant on
the dusty plains of Ethiopia, watching a jungle sun-rise over
Bohol’s Chocolate Hills or simply camping on the sands of
Britain’s remotest beach, I've loved it all. Along the way I've
explored around 90 countries on six continents and clocked
up over half a million miles on the road. The environment is
important, but so is travel's interchange of cultures, peoples
and ideas. Since 2006 I've carbon-offset all my flights, but I
will continue to set out.
I am a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and speak
French, Spanish, German and Russian. Home is a converted
village pub an hour from both Heathrow and Gatwick shared
with my wife and two young sons.
Hotel prices
Indicative prices per double room. (Based on standard room
unless our recommendation is for a specific alternative.)
Budget Below £60
Modest £60—£100
Mid Price £100—£140
Expensive £140—£200
Premium £200 +
Weekend Styles
Activity. Get out there and get involved. No prior experience required.
Discovery. Rekindle the explorer in you - culture, history,
natural wonders and pure travel.
Getaway. Leave the washing-up behind and grab an easygoing change of scenery away from home.
Hideaway. Magical places to stay. Shut out the world and
recharge mind, body and soul.
Alexander Flint
Liked this, why not try...
PUBLISHED JUNE 08
19
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
A.B. FLINT
TRAVEL
DESIGN
WWW.WEEKENDBLUEPRINT.COM
SHORT BREAKS FOR INDEPENDENT TRAVELLERS