guidavaldichiana ing09.ai

valdichiana
Terre di Siena
valdichiana
CHIANCIANO TERME
VAL DI CHIANA TOURIST AGENCY
WELCOMES YOU TO
THE TERRE DI SIENA
val di chiana
Terre di Siena
val di chiana: terre di siena’s rhapsody in blue
7
welcoming from prehistoric times
10
porsenna and saint mustiola, legends of chiusi
11
medieval val di chiana: between myth and legend
12
poliziano and the pearl of the sixteenth century
13
the red demon of sarteano
14
madonna in the sienese manner
15
the ancient tradition of sharecropping
16
the thermal springs, cinema, people: val di chiana at the centre of the world
17
ancient waters, brand-new thermal springs
18
towns of the val di chiana
21
cetona, chianciano terme, chiusi, montepulciano, san casciano dei bagni,
sarteano, sinalunga, torrita di siena, trequanda
22
firenze
siena
tuscanyitaly
Terre di Siena
val di chiana
cetona
chianciano terme
chiusi
montepulciano
san casciano dei bagni
sarteano
sinalunga
torrita di siena
trequanda
Radda in Chianti
San Gimignano
Gaiole in Chianti
Poggibonsi Castellina in Chianti
Colle di Val d’Elsa
Monteriggioni
Casole d’Elsa
Castelnuovo Berardenga
Siena
Rapolano Terme
Sovicille
Radicondoli
Monteroni d’Arbia
Asciano
Sinalunga
Trequanda
Chiusdino
Murlo
5
Torrita di Siena
Monticiano
San Giovanni d’Asso
Buonconvento
Montepulciano
San Quirico d’Orcia
Pienza
Montalcino
Chianciano Terme
Castiglione d’Orcia
Chiusi
Sarteano
Cetona
Abbadia San Salvatore
Piancastagnaio
Radicofani San Casciano
dei Bagni
The Val di Chiana painted by Leonardo Da Vinci. Reproduced by gracious permission of Her Majesty Queen Elisabeth II.
6
Just beyond the Chiana they gather at the baths. (Pliny)
val di chiana: terre di siena’s
rhapsody in blue
The Val di Chiana has soft borders: the rising of its
dawns, the reddening of its dusks reflected in the
stationary sea of the ‘Crete’ hills, its charming ‘Biancane’
range, the gorges of the Orcia. They flicker on Chiusi
and Montepulciano’s lakes, are lost in the mysterious
Etruscan civilization and penetrate the Porsena labyrinth,
reflect the ruggedness of Cetona, then gush forth into
the fountains of Chianciano Terme and San Casciano
dei Bagni. A visit musically attunes you to its history
fading into the legends and mysteries of the Etruscan
civilisation pulsing throughout all the region. To enjoyable
well-being in San Casciano dei Bagni’s miraculous waters
and appreciating Montepulciano’s great wines, Sinalunga’s
gastronomic splendour and Trequanda’s extra-virgin
olive oil. To beauty incarnated in the scenery and
architecture of Sarteano, Torrita di Siena and the noble
rurality of Cetona; legend suspended in Chiusi’s natural
oasis, the cold austerity of Monte Cetona and the
regional trait of total harmony.
Remember the mythic Porsena, the Etruscan king who
dared challenge Rome and defeated her, leaving a trail
of half-truths in his wake. And Horace, who records that
Chianciano was home to the favoured thermal springs
of the Emperor Augustus. Remember the Abbot of Cluny,
who became more guest than prisoner of Ghino di
7
8
Tacco, the lord and gentleman-bandit of Radicófani. And Lorenzo the Magnificent, who entrusted the education of his
princess-daughter to Agnolo Ambrogini, otherwise known as Poliziano; the poet’s influence on the Medici dynasty led the
Florentine court to appoint the centre of the Sienese Renaissance, Montepulciano, its ‘buen retiro’. More recently, Gabriele
D’Annunzio conceived his poetic ‘Halcyon’ here, while Federico Fellini devised and set his cinematic masterpiece 8 1/2
in Chianciano.
From Cetona and Sarteano, the Val di Chiana has restored the body and souls of Nobel prize-winners and great artists.
Perhaps there’s a link between these events and the Etruscan spirit which seems more ingrained in this region than any
other. The whole length of the Val di Chiana, from Umbria to the plains of Lazio, still touches the core of the Etruscan
epic. The Sienese part is home to bounteous wisdom: first agriculture, then art, then the solid, vital foundation of water.
Three elements that define the civilization of ‘living life to the full’, embodied in a Chianina steak or a glass of Nobile,
which as far back as the seventeenth-century was christened by Francesco Redi in his ‘Bacchus in Tuscany’ as the king of
wines. A peaceful walk through old medieval centres, a healthy dip in hot springs or a sip of revitalizing thermal water.
Today translated into the highest level of hospitality, or perhaps into some wisdom imparted by a local craftsman. This is
why the Val di Chiana is so special, roots of humanity and nature make this place a wonderful habitat for those lucky
enough to live here and render it welcoming to visitors. A kind of spiritual ecology illuminated by a rainbow of senses,
the colours of which are the Val di Chiana’s towns, its synthesis our rhapsody in blue. An Etruscan blue.
9
hospitable since prehistoric times
In the Val di Chiana one can experience the thrill of visiting caves that were inhabited 50,000 years ago. Situated in dense woods at the base
of Monte Cetona, the underground caverns, like the Archeodrome with its faithful reproduction of a Bronze Age village, are not only natural
attractions, they also provide evidence of a lifestyle choice that dates back to ancient times – the choice to live in an area that is enviable
for its environment, climate and strategic position. These values have been passed down since the dawn of time, and they’re reaffirmed by
the decision that many people still make today to put down roots in this area.
10
11
porsena and saint mustiola, legends of chiusi
Porsena was the prince who defeated the Romans, that thereafter - according to the Histories of Tacitus - ‘could not touch Porsena after the
surrender of their city’. Legend has it that he was buried in a majestic mausoleum, set in an intricate labyrinth surrounded by startling array
of precious objects including thousands of golden chicks. An underground labyrinth does in fact exist beneath Chiusi – and can be visited but it is only an ancient Etruscan aqueduct. Another legendary figure from Chiusi was a relation of Emperor Claudius: Mustiola. For the mere
crime of converting to Christianity, her Emperor-uncle threw her in prison. Managing to escape, she reached the lake at Chiana, near Chiusi.
Pursued by soldiers and throwing her cloak onto the water, it miraculously carried her away. Henceforward it is said that on the evening of
the 3rd of July, a golden streak of light is visible over the waters, in memory of the saint’s journey.
12
medieval val di chiana:
between myth and legend
Medieval Val di Chiana is still evident, albeit reshaped and reinterpreted by the inescapable passing of time, in its stones, scenery and myths.
Testimony are castles, fortresses and churches dotting historically-bounteous hillsides. The original stream from which the valley takes it name
and that today serves as a system of canals, was once an elusive river, whose name mutated from Medieval Latin into the female ‘Chiana’.
We half-expect to see the reflections of its ancient villages and their inhabitants in its medieval relicts, the ‘Chiari’ of Chiusi and Montepulciano.
Such as Mustiola, the local martyr, who endeared herself to the ‘foreign’ Lombards, or Chiusi’s other saints, who lived when Rome was still
centre of this vast empire. Later we find the heroic Ghino di Tacco, whose rebellion against the growth of the town’s municipal infrastructure
and the armies and merchants who had ‘invaded’ his region (the original lands of the Scialenga family towards Torrita, Asciano and Sinalunga)
became romanticized over the centuries.
the poliziano and the pearl
of the sixteenth century
November 1484: a Medici legation, sent by Lorenzo the Magnificent
to Rome to pay homage to the new pope, Innocent III, stops at
Montepulciano. The early winter weather is cold and misty, but
one of the delegation, the poet Angelo Poliziano, feverishly
searches all over the town of his birth, to rave over a new work
of art: a terracotta panel. The episode is indicative of what has
happened in Montepulciano; as a sort of outpost in Sienese and
papal lands, the town’s painting, sculpture and architecture were
obliged to demonstrate clearly visible ‘signs’ of their Florentine
allegiance. This is how 16th century Montepulciano, with its
affinity for inspiration and zest for its most illustrious son, Poliziano,
came into being long ago.
13
the red demon of sarteano
A red demon, driving a cart drawn by two lions and two griffons,
dominates the corridor wall of this marvellous tomb in Sarteano’s
Pianacce necropolises. This enigmatic figure, unique in Etruria, is
either of a demon as yet unknown or, more likely, a completely
new version of Charon, the demon that - like the Greek Caronte
- accompanies dead souls to the Underworld. The other walls of
the room are dominated by enormous monsters in vivid colours:
a three-headed serpent with beard and crest, and on the lower
pediment a seahorse: a marine metaphor for the journey to the
afterlife. In addition to these creatures, two very-human portraits
are depicted on the final part of the corridor: these are the dead,
pictured in an unusually-emotional embrace at a banquet in the
Underworld. The extraordinary pictorial cycle, whose colours are
exceptionally well-preserved, is a new addition to the host of
Etruscan museums and tombs in the area.
14
15
madonna in the sienese manner
‘The Annunciation’ is one of the masterpieces of the undisputed champion of Sienese Mannerism, the extraordinary Domenico Beccafumi. Its
highly expressive features include its Virgin and Angel, and the contrast between the dusk in the house of the Madonna and the symbolic
divine light that illuminates the faces of the two figures. Splendid too is the lacustral scenery in the background, evoking views of the Tuscan
countryside. If the Florentine artists could be said to be drawn to macabre and often very harsh subjects, the Sienese style is more subtle
and refined. A clear masterpiece of this school, ‘The Annunciation’ is found in one of Sarteano’s little churches, like many works of art, it is
not preserved in a museum. One of many of the Val di Chiana’s beautiful faces.
16
the ancient tradition of sharecropping
Vestiges of the vanished past can still be discerned in local festivals and agricultural produce. The ancient sharecropping tradition still influences
present-day celebrations where food often plays a central role, while improved methods of production guarantee a very high-quality of regional
produce. This is home of the ‘Chianina’, a long-esteemed indigenous breed famous for its Florentine steaks. And also its Vino Nobile, preserved
in Montepulciano’s historical cellars, while regional cuisine is enhanced by flavours from Lazio, Arezzo and Umbria. Its pici, a famous sort of
thick, mismatched hand-made spaghetti. Or fish from Chiusi’s lake, used in the traditional brustico and tegamaccio recipes. Not forgetting the
multi-prizewinning olive oil from the Trequanda area, traditionally kept in decorative terracotta jars from Petroio. And vegetables and fruit such as Montepulciano’s plums - are also testimony to its extraordinary local traditions.
the thermal springs, cinema, people:
val di chiana at the centre of the world
The Chianciano Terme features in Fellini’s dreamlike masterpiece 8 1/2
and was regularly visited by the famous film director. Federico Fellini was
a staunch devotee of Val di Chiana’s ‘cure’, as was Nobel prize-winner
Luigi Pirandello, who set one of his short stories in the town. Little has
changed from those days: the region still draws artists and famous people
who choose its countryside and numerous hot springs as a place to live
or to run an agriturismo estate. Meanwhile novels and famous films
continue to be set in its streets, historic piazzas and thermal springs,
following the tradition set by Fellini. Think of The English Patient, A
Midsummer Night’s Dream or the recent Don’t Move, set in the prestigious
thermal baths of San Casciano dei Bagni.
17
ancient waters, new spa
An American magazine described the hot springs at San Casciano dei Bagni as “the most beautiful in the world in the most beautiful place in the world.”
Recently renovated, they are the jewel in the crown of a region whose life has revolved around water since its inception. Another “offspring” of the
waters is the new “Terme Sensoriali” in Chianciano Terme. A true hot springs temple, the spa integrates architecture, technology, and the traditional
philosophy of Ayurveda, in a unique language that expresses itself in twenty, natural, wellbeing treatments. Beginning with its name, The “Museo
Archeaologico delle Acque” (Archaeological Museum of the Waters) in Chianciano Terme, bears witness to the importance of the thermal waters dating
from Etruscan times, through the period of the Roman baths, followed by the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. But above all, it demonstrates the splendour
that brought queens, heads of state, and men of culture and the arts, to what has remained one of the most important mineral springs locations in Europe.
This legacy is underscored by the Terme di Montepulciano, which is increasingly identified with wellbeing. In addition to the spas, water has had a significant
impact on the development of other parts of the region. At one time, the Val di Chiana was completely under water, a situation that even drew the
attention of Leonardo da Vinci, who was involved in a project to drain the valley. The swamp began to disappear during the era of the Grand Duchy of
Tuscany, leaving as its legacy the “chiari” (lakes) of Chiusi and Montepulciano, and restoring the Val di Chiana to its original fertility. Water flowed beneath
Chiusi, in an intricate Etruscan aqueduct, it collected in Roman cisterns, and it is still present today in the fountains and wells of the town’s historic centre.
18
19
20
towns of the val di chiana
21
Towns produce an array of senses. This composition of life and nature’s colours gives birth to the blue rhapsody of the Val di Chiana. A
forty-odd kilometre itinerary – worthwhile in its entirety - that takes in nine places: Cetona, Chianciano Terme, Chiusi, Montepulciano, San
Casciano dei Bagni, Sarteano, Sinalunga, Torrita di Siena and Trequanda. The Val di Chiana circuit can be started at four possible points.
From the north, coming down from the Crete, or from the east skirting Lake Trasimeno before descending into lush olive groves. Or from
the West climbing along the Orcia, savouring, from Sarteano on, the sweet air of these seemingly-timeless places. Or lastly from the south,
perhaps from the Autosole motorway, exiting at Chiusi. The crazy pace of the motorway melts to thoughtful wonder with the first hairpin
bends, perhaps taking the La Foce road from Montepulciano to San Quirico. The road immortalized in a thousand adverts as the perfect
representation of how scenery can be artificially constructed with the local perspective in mind. Less well known is that La Foce - now a
permanent fixture of Tuscan imagery - was ‘designed’ by an American lady who, along its bumpy hairpin bends, wished to replicate a
living synthesis of every Tuscan landscape. A tranquil descent affords views of cypresses and cluster pines, cottages and fields: a perfect
synthesis of local beauty.
Cetona: the emerald frozen in time
A place that exists in space as in time: frozen time. Protected by the mountain to which it clings, Cetona is as delicate and intense as the
emerald green of its woods, patterned by columns of cypresses, shaded by holm-oaks, embellished by olive trees. Chosen by the European
intelligentsia as a ‘buen retiro’ since here history impressively reveals itself in the stronghold with its powerful keep that commands over
the village, while its ancient pavements and archaeological zones form its skin. Not to be missed is the two-fold splendour of the Belvedere
Archaeological/Nature park which testifies to Cetona’s very remote origins and is well-documented in the Museo Civico Per La Preistoria Del
Monte Cetona. In the historical centre, the churches of San Michele and Santa Trinità are worth a visit, while the buildings that frame Piazza
Garibaldi - in particular the Town Hall - testify to its ancient nobility. Wandering through Cetona’s alleys and clambering up its pathways is
an act of regeneration, as if this primitive village was created to put Man at peace with God. The almost-severe linearity of its architecture
blends with the softness of the horizons outlined by the hills. Cetona acts as a starting point for exploration of the most rural and authentic
parts of the Val di Chiana. Here - as in the rest of the territory - the finest gastronomy can be enjoyed, in particular its ‘country’ olive oils.
A bottle of intensely green extra-virgin olive oil recalls the meadow, a flavour that ranges from sweet to sharp and the best souvenir because
it really is the ‘juice’ of this region and confirmation that Cetona is truly an emerald.
22
information centre: Piazza Garibaldi 63, t-fx 0578 239143 [email protected] www.cetona.org
23
Monte Cetona Civic Museum of Prehistory and Belverde
Archeological Naturalist Park
via roma 37, t 0578 237632 www.museisenesi.org
[email protected]
The museum records the various phases of human settlement in the
region, from the Paleolithic period up to the end of the Bronze Age.
Discoveries from Monte Cetona area’s countless caverns testify to a
human presence in this area as early as the Middle Paleolithic (Neanderthal
man). The finds, which number among them rock tools and remains
of animal prey, are displayed according to the latest educational methods.
Closely linked to the museum is the Belverde Archaeological/Nature
park, where the main prehistoric settlements are located.
what to see in cetona. Besides the small, well-maintained and beautiful mediaeval village, an excursion to the Monte Cetona Archaeological and Naturalist Park is a must. Here one can
visit the caves, which were an important Neanderthal settlement, and the Archeodrome, with its faithful reconstruction of a prehistoric village. But in reality, the whole mountain deserves
a thorough exploration, beginning with a scramble up one of a thousand trails leading to the top (1,148 metres). From there one can take in the entire panorama of the Val di Chiana.
ApT, Piazza Italia 67, t 0578 671122/3 fx 0578 63277 [email protected] www.terresiena.it www.vivichiancianoterme.it
24
Chianciano Terme: the purity of the diamond of water
Precious and pure as its water, this sacred town has provided its guests, from the time of the Etruscans to ‘Apollo Salutare’, with a kaleidoscope
of life as infinite as the shards of light emanating from a diamond. Today Chianciano’s thermal resort prescribes water-drinking cures - it has
four springs, Acqua Santa, Acqua Fucoli, Acqua Sillene and Acqua Sant’Elena - set in a charming region of worldly pleasures and private comforts.
It rediscovered its ancient grace in Fellini’s masterpiece 8 1/2, conceived here by the great director. A fantasy that dreamily recounts Chianciano’s
true calling as a place for regeneration. Its history so action-packed to appear mythic. Inhabited as far back as the Neolithic period, it was
sacred to the Etruscans and their major stopping-point on route to the Tyrrhenian ports. Domain of the Lombards and Farolfingi lords (in the
early Middle Ages it took the name of Clancianum), it was contested over by Florence and Siena and ruled over by Cosimo Medici I. Ancient
vestiges are its historical centre - with the Manenti castle, the Collegiata museum, the Clock Tower, the Immacolata church all worth a visit while its thermal springs were once celebrated by Horace, who recommended the cure to Emperor Augustus: today recorded in the very
interesting Museo Civico-Archeologico Delle Acque. Now it is a prominent European centre of regeneration whose up-to-date well-being complex
combines style and hospitality, offering some innovative shopping based on Sienese crafts and the flavours of an internationally high-standard
of cuisine deriving from local produce. In a setting of harmony between old and the new, it is the capital of well-being.
The sights of Chianciano Terme. Chianciano offers more than just shops, hotels and thermal parks. The town, famous for fashionable well-being, also boasts a
very ancient history, dating from the Etruscan civilization. The most interesting remnants of its past are exhibited in the extensive Museo Archeologico, that
includes the intact contents of tombs and the world’s largest collection of Etruscan Canopic vases. Another must-see is the historical centre with its small piazzas
and maze of alleyways.
museo civico archeologico delle acque
viale dante 80, t 0578 30471
Inaugurated in 2002, its up-to-date and innovative displays instantly
put a town known mainly for its tourism on the international
archaeological map. Its spacious rooms house reconstructions of tombs
– including a perfectly-preserved aristocratic one – splendid Etruscan
and Greek illustrated vases, the colossal pediment of a temple, as well
as specimens of gold and bronze jewellery. Its collection of painted
Canopic vases is the finest in the world.
museo della collegiata
via solferino 38, t 0578 30378
As small as it is, this compact museum houses many of Chianciano
Terme’s treasures. These includes a striking crucifix of the school of
Duccio di Buoninsegna and a Madonna with Child, also of the fourteenth
century Sienese school. Interesting too, as much as a historical document,
is a panel of San Giovanni supporting fifteenth-century Chianciano.
25
Terme di Chianciano Spa
Via delle rose
t 0578 68111 fx 0578 60522
[email protected]
www.termechianciano.it
Sorgente Sant’Elena Spa
Viale della libertà 112
t 0578 31141 fx 0578 31369
[email protected]
www.termesantelena.it
information centre: Piazza Duomo 1, t-fx 0578 227667 [email protected] www.comune.chiusi.si.it
26
Chiusi: the gold from an age-old mine
Chiusi is a gold mine of perceptions. The catacomb-like aqueduct of Porsenna’s labyrinth melts into legend and is reflected in the blue sapphire
of a subterranean lake, testimony to Chiusi’s prominence in the Dodecapoli - the league of 12 Etruscan cities - a run of unbroken civilization.
An overview of Chiusi is gleaned by observing the two towers known as ‘Get this’ (Beccati questo) and ‘Get the Other’ (Beccati quest’altro)
which overlook the border of Tuscany and Umbria, legacy of feudal struggles in a strategic location. Chiusi’s mysteries are waiting to be
discovered everywhere and require a ‘beauty-digger’ to unearth them. First the ‘Chiari’, lakes created from reclamation of the marshes. The
expanse of Chiusi’s lake reflects the sky and natural surroundings. Ask for a brustico, an Etruscan bass recipe, blackened on a cane fire then
seasoned with extra-virgin olive oil and accompanied by a cool Val di Chiana white wine. Alternatively around the lake and nature reserve of
neighbouring Montepulciano, where the Chiana meets the Astrone, there is a sense of vibrancy. Chiusi closely guards its history in its townscape
and its Museo Archeologico Nazionale, perhaps the most striking collection of Etruscan finds in existence. Wander from the Town Hall to the
Clock Tower, from the Santa Maria Loggiato and the San Francesco church, entering the town through the Porta Lavinia to overlook it from the
Piazza Duomo. Such a impressive historical grouping that never smacks of mummification. For a timeless dimension just look beyond the
necropolises to the famous Scimmia, Leone and Pellegrina tombs. Confirmation of the gold within Chiusi’s veins are the Santa Mustiola and
Santa Caterina catacombs, reminders of the long line of humanity connected to this place.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale / Via Porsenna 93, t 0578 20177 [email protected]
Newly-redesigned, Chiusi’s museum is one of the world’s most important Etruscan collections, displaying
finds from the Bronze Age to Lombard times. The Etruscan period features thousands of pieces, some
priceless, such as a set of decorated heavy bucchero pottery and sculptures in fetid limestone, as well as
bronze objects, Canopic funeral vases, utensils and jewels. Particularly valuable is the large collection of
black and red figurative pottery from Greece.
Museo Civico (Civic Museum) – The Underground City / Via II Ciminia 2, t 349 5544729
www.labirinto.info [email protected]
The museum is laid out in three sections: the Labyrinth, Production Activities and Epigraphs, the latter
exhibited in underground tunnels. There are more than 140 metres of subterranean galleries, which host
the only exhibit in Italy of Etruscan funerary inscriptions – about 300 urns and 200 inscribed tombstones.
The itinerary ends with a visit to the famous underground pond.
Museo Della Cattedrale (Porsenna labyrinth) / piazza Duomo, t 0578 226490 [email protected]
Next to the beautiful cathedral - one of Tuscany’s finest - as many as 21 extremely beautifully-illustrated liturgical
codices form part of a valuable collection of artworks dating from the 2nd century B.C. to the 19th century. It
also houses the entrance to a maze of underground passageways known as the Porsena labyrinth, a complex
water system in Etruscan times. A visit makes an unusual and attractive trip into the town’s underbelly.
27
Chiusi sights. The Etruscan influence on Chiusi can hardly be overstated. But there’s
more on offer than Chiusi’s unique archaeological heritage. One of its treasures is its
lake, what remains - along with the neighbouring lakes of Montepulciano and Trasimeno
- of the great marine lagoon that invaded a major section of Central Italy. Chiusi’s
lake is small and shallow but rich in fauna, while its reeds are home to an incredible
number of nesting birds. Boats can be hired to explore its most attractive parts.
information centre: Piazza Don Minzoni, t-fx 0578 757341 [email protected] www.prolocomontepulciano.it
Vino Nobile Route information centre: Piazza Grande 7, t 0578 717484 fx 0578 753749 [email protected] www.stradavinonobile.it
28
montepulciano: the ruby of the art of living
A place of beauty and goodness, a town of the art of ‘living life to the full’, an artistic jewel set on a hill between the Orcia and the Chiana,
whose green wave-like vineyards snuggle its townscape so tightly that it seems to be floating on a cloud of pleasure. Montepulciano, the centre
of the Tuscan Renaissance (recalling the locally-born Renaissance poet, Poliziano, is as much involuntary as a duty) now heralds the Second
Tuscan Renaissance, that of harmony and joy of life, but based on culture rather than current trends. Such as enjoying a glass of Nobile. Deriving
from a special type of Sangiovese grape, Francesco Redi extolled the wine in his seventeenth-century ‘Bacchus in Tuscany’ as the most important
Tuscan red. Without a doubt one of the region’s most prominent reds and consequently one of the world’s most important wines, like many
products of the Val di Chiana it has kept a healthy balance between quality and price. And an overview of Montepulciano is not complete
without tasting its ‘blood’: its wine, the centrepiece of a Renaissance pageant, the Bravìo Delle Botti, a unique palio staged in its medieval
streets. It goes without saying that the town has more than its fair share of beauty: from the San Biagio Temple and the Town Hall designed
by Michelozzo, to the Palazzo Contucci, the Palazzo Nobili-Tarugi and the Palazzo Neri-Orselli, not forgetting the Palazzo Del Capitano Del Popolo
and the Pozzo Dei Grifi e Dei Leoni, whose majestic architecture was designed by renowned Renaissance architect Sangallo (behind many of
the town’s buildings) and serves as the symbol of the town. A town whose churches (Gesù, Sant’Agnese and Sant’Agostino) hold artistic
treasures, is also home to architectural oddities such as the Logge del Grano and the Pulcinella Tower. A town steeped in culture and art, yet
whose philosophy is ‘living life to the full’, as testified to by its jewel-like thermal springs or on the shores of its lake (10 km out of town),
where a visit to its Natural History Museum provides an overview of the region.
museo civico pinacoteca crociani
via ricci 10, t 0578 717300
The museum is subdivided into various
sections and displays many important
pieces. To be enjoyed are sixteenth and
seventeenth-century terracottas of the
school of Andrea della Robbia, and various
pictorial masterpieces from the
fourteenth-century Sienese school. The
museum also houses valuable illustrated
choir-books of the Florentine school,
eighteenth-century silver objects and a
rich collection of the contents of Etruscan
and Roman tombs.
The sights of Montepulciano. The pearl of the sixteenth century, a jewel of
a town: Renaissance Montepulciano has been the subject of thousands of
books. The town has a vast municipal territory that includes a large part of
the Sienese Val di Chiana. In the heart of the valley is set a small expanse
of water, Montepulciano’s lake, one of Italy’s most important wetlands, where
more than 130 migratory and indigenous bird species, many of them rare,
find shelter. A visitor centre has been created on its shore in conjunction with
a system of strategic observation points.
Terme di Montepulciano SpA
Via delle Terme 46
Fraz. Sant’Albino
t 0578 7911 fx 0578 799149
[email protected]
www.termemontepulciano.it
29
San Casciano dei Bagni: the sapphire of well-being
It seems miraculous that God created such a harmonious place here on the southern slopes of the austere Monte Cetona. Yet as far back as
you can go, San Casciano dei Bagni has been a major thermal resort. The Etruscans discovered it, the Romans developed it into a spa, in the
Middle Ages it was visited by feudal aristocracy and in the Renaissance it became notorious. Today, up-to-date modernisation has transformed
it into one of Europe’s most prominent, popular and attractive thermal resorts. Its springs are as countless as local opportunities for enjoyment.
Even the regular presence of society elite has failed to alter its rurally-authentic features. Leaving aside its thermal pleasures, a break at San
Casciano dei Bagni becomes an immersion in a historic rural civilization. The old centre - that like the whole of the Val di Chiana offers local
food and wine - is home to the Collegiata, the adjacent Oratory of Sant’Antonio and the Basilican Church. The Fighine castle is also worth a
visit. Set at end of a track that climbs a hill for a few kilometres, it lords over a stunning panorama of untamed nature where the thermal
pools glisten under the sun’s rays, like sapphires set in the greenish-ochre of the countryside.
30
information centre: Piazza Matteotti 14, t-fx 0578 58141 [email protected] www.sancascianodeibagni.org
The sights of San Casciano dei Bagni. This charming small village is still in its
original natural setting of thick woodlands and panoramas; the ideal place to
reattune. And what better location for what one prestigious American magazine
described as the world’s most beautiful thermal springs? And for those who
think that San Casciano has little more to offer than its water - as hot as it is the Palazzone area offers the heart of its culture in the form of wine and oil.
Not far away, on a rise that commands over the Paglia valley, the charming
small village of Celle sul Rigo can be found, for several years the home of the
poet Giosuè Carducci.
Fonteverde Thermal Centre
Loc. Terme 1
t 0578 57241 fx 0578 572200
[email protected]
www.fonteverdeterme.it
31
Sarteano: the topaz of medieval refinement
It is hard to find a village for which the medieval period - beyond its influence on architecture and folk revivals - has left more than a trace.
But for Sarteano the medieval lives on in the unchanged character of its people and their physical surroundings. What is more, Sarteano
boasts the thermal Canalette spring (nearby is a fully-equipped campsite which offers top accommodation in the heart of nature) and a rural
setting that guarantees a high standard of tasty enogastronomic fill. Sarteano also shares features of both the Chiana and Orcia regions,
welcoming its visitors with its imposing stronghold, a reminder of how this region was subjugated, first by the Lombards, then by the Manenti
family, in strict agreement with Frederick I (nicknamed Barbarossa or Redbeard). Its historic centre - still surrounded by its medieval wall is home to various architectural treasures such as the Arrischianti theatre and the San Francesco, Collegiata and San Martino churches. The
castle and the esteemed Town Hall are both impressive, but what makes Sarteano really worth a visit is the genuinely-noble rurality of its
surroundings, highlights of which are Castiglioncello del Trinoro and the Spineto abbey, reached by tackling the steep track that leads from
the ancient walls. Today this natural setting forms a backdrop of sharply contrasted colours; woodland greens, earthy ochres and the glaring
reflection of its walls like drops of topaz illuminated by history.
32
information centre: Corso Garibaldi 9, t-fx 0578 269204 [email protected] www.prolocosarteano.it
The sights of Sarteano. The historical centre
nestles around the very pretty, impressive
medieval stronghold, testimony to its very
distinguished past. Older still are the exhibits
in its extensive Archaeological Museum. Just
outside the town walls is a very attractive
swimming-pool complex set within a lush and
shady park. The water gushes forth unremittingly
at 24º to provide continuous turnover for the
large pools. A few kilometres away, alone on
a ridge, the small medieval village of
Castiglioncello del Trinoro provides an
amazingly-tranquil setting of a handful of houses,
age-old walls and a view to take your breath
away. Nearby is the monumental ancient
beechwood of Pietraporciana, where barbecues
can be enjoyed in the special areas designated
by the Comunità Montana del Cetona.
33
Museo Civico Archeologico
Via Roma 24, t 0578 269261
This recently-opened museum has rapidly taken its place as one of the province’s
most important collections, displaying finds from excavations in the Sarteano
area. Particularly interesting is the reconstruction of a chamber tomb with two
Canopic vases, unique of its kind. There are also numerous other pieces dating
from Etruscan times to the Late Roman period, with entire grave hoards consisting
of goblets, vases, caskets, statues and very beautiful decorated Canopic vases.
information centre: Piazza della Repubblica 8, t-fx 0577 636045 [email protected] www.prolocosinalunga.it
34
sinalunga: the agate of elegance
A private, secluded living-museum of architectural refinement, Sinalunga is also a thriving centre of economic activity. Perched on a hill that
lords over a lush countryside Sinalunga’s austere townscape is home to artistic highlights such as the Collegiata, the Palazzo Pretorio, the Pinsuti
theatre and Santa Croce church. Vestiges of its past hark back to its thriving periods: the Bronze Age, its strategic importance in Etruscan times,
the Middle Ages (a strange and cruel testimony is the surviving pillory) up until the Risorgimento with the imprisonment, in its Palazzo Agnolucci, of
Giuseppe Garibaldi, to prevent him from reaching Rome. Yet what is striking about Sinalunga is its pace of life, which perfectly fuses rural
customs and a highly-esteemed and industrious craft industry. You will be amazed at the local textiles, wrought iron and ‘cocci’ that match
those of the nearby Petroio: one of the world’s most renowned centres of terracotta production. Sinalunga is also home to a high-quality
enogastronomic tradition (don’t miss its pride and joy: cold meats and salami), the high-point of which are the Chianina breed of cattle, raised
in the surrounding areas. Well-worth a visit are the nearby San Bernardino convent on Poggio Baldino and the beautifully-preserved walled
village of Scorfiano, overlooked by its castle. Sinalunga’s surroundings are the ideal place for a relaxed holiday in agriturismo’s, with the option
of horse-riding or exploring the Rigomagno, Guazzino, Bettolle and Scrofiano areas. This is Sinalunga’s hidden charm, a place awaiting to reveal
itself only to those in the know.
Sinalunga’s sights. In addition to its historical centre that boasts a
charming theatre and many impressive buildings, Sinalunga’s churches
contain valuable artistic works. The oldest of these and of the region
as a whole, is the Pieve of San Pietro ad Mensulas, set in the lower
part of the town, right on the ancient Cassia way. A simple church that
evokes ages past, it dates from the XI century, but also seems to have
been reconstructed on the site of an older church dating as far back as
the sixth century, in turn the site of an ancient Roman temple. Testimony
to the area’s religious calling.
35
Torrita di Siena: the acquamarine of peacefulness
A clear gem whose walls reflect the blue sky. This is Torrita di Siena, that comes into view, on leaving Sinalunga, from the short stretch of
road that climbs the hairpin bends. The birthplace of the gentleman-bandit of Radicófani, Ghino di Tacco, its medieval pride is retained in its
architecture. Still set within its predominantly-intact walls, life passes tranquilly, scented by the surrounding woodlands. Not to be missed
are its Town Hall, and its tower – from which its name probably derives (having been built by the Sienese to protect from the ‘menacing’
Florentines installed at Montepulciano) and the Church of Saints Flora and Lucilla that houses rare works of Bartolo di Fredi. Torrita conveys
an overall sense of internal peace, blessed by a cuisine that employs local produce; a microcosm protected by ancient walls that still preserves
its traditions, such as that of its famous group of flag-wavers.
36
pro loco: Via Maestri 18, t-fx 0577 685571 [email protected] www.comune.torrita.si.it
37
The sights of Torrita di Siena. The origin of the town’s name becomes obvious
on passing through its medieval walls to the tower of its Town Hall set in its
main square. Few know that the famous thirteenth-century outlaw, Ghino di
Tacco, whose name has always been linked to the town of Radicófani, was
born in this area on the site of a farm - La Fratta - which exists to this day.
On high, a few kilometres away, partially hidden amongst the thick vegetation,
is Montefollonico, a small, quiet village also surrounded by a solid wall.
information: Via Roma 4, t-fx 0577 662296 [email protected] www.trequandaproloco.it
38
Trequanda: the quartz of the everyday
Trequanda sees the civilizations of the Orcia and the Chiana merge. A tiny village whose austere, graceful architecture mirrors every scent and
hue of its surrounding oak and beech woodlands. Yet the most striking element of Trequanda is its absolutely pure light. This is one of the
blessed places in the Val Di Chiana to give birth to small and large daily pleasures: Trequanda’s famous bread, eaten with its very tasty
extra-virgin olive oil. Who can not marvel at Trequanda’s cuisine of ‘Chianina’ meat, cold cuts of ‘Cinta Senese’ pork and ‘Pecorinì’ cheeses,
that match those the neighbouring ‘Crete’? Then the Sangiovese-based wines that rival those of the Orcia. It is truly a gourmet’s paradise.
Trequanda also offers small artistic treasures such as the Romanesque Church of Saints Pietro and Andrea, overlooking the town’s chocolate-box
square, and the remains of the old castle: the round tower.
The sights of Trequanda. The first thing that comes to mind when entering this little village is that it must be the perfect place to live. For a host of reasons: the
untainted Tuscan scenery, the thousand living traditions, its oil, wine and other local produce or perhaps a combination of all of these. A few kilometres away is Petroio,
where the masters of the ancient-art of terracotta can be admired, while further on is Castelmuzio, whose farm boasts a very high-quality organic olive oil.
39
Museo della Terracotta
via valgelata 10 (fraz. petroio), t 0577 665188
A direct testimony of a highly-skilled art that dates from the Middle
Ages. Displays are both old and new: from crockery to warmers, oil
jars to washing basins and garden pots. High-points include the
reconstruction of a kiln and the live commentary of a ‘concaio’,
explaining the whole craft process.
international code +39
Produced by
Chianciano Terme Val di Chiana
Tourist Agency
Via Sabatini 7
53042 Chianciano Terme (Si)
t 0578 67111 fx 0578 64623
Terre di Siena
Info
ApT Chianciano Terme Information Centre
Piazza Italia 67
53042 Chianciano Terme (SI)
t 0578 671122/3 fx 0578 63277
[email protected]
www.terresiena.it
www.vivichiancianoterme.it
[email protected]
Editorial coordinator
Luigi Pagnotta
Text
Carlo Cambi, Petra Carsetti, Maria Teresa
Cuda, Diego Mancuso, Mario Marrocchi,
Alessandra Minetti, Luigi Pagnotta
Photos
Archivio ApT, Bruno Bruchi, Grazia Neri
“Terre di Siena” Images
Claim Communication
Graphic design
ArtefattiAd&P
5.000/06/2009
PROVINCE OF SIENA
COMMUNES OF:
Cetona
Chianciano Terme
Chiusi
Montepulciano
San Casciano dei Bagni
Sarteano
Sinalunga
Torrita di Siena
Trequanda
APT Chianciano Terme Val di Chiana
tourist office
piazza Italia 67 - 53042 Chianciano Terme (Si)
t +39 0578 671122-3 fx +39 0578 63277
[email protected]
www.vivichiancianoterme.it
www.terresiena.it
To book guided tours and other tourist services
[email protected]