SA`S BeSt SAfAriS

travel south africa
The Big
SA’s Best Safaris
There’s a plethora of national parks, wilderness areas, private game
reserves and other safari options out there, but finding the real
gems takes time and money. To save readers both, here are seasoned
travel writer Pippa de Bruyn’s favourites
T
ravel writers are an envied lot, and
the casual ‘I’m off on safari’ their
most romantic statement of intent.
But the downside of extensive
safari research trips is the many
dud experiences – impersonal
lodges no better than three-star
resorts, reserves thick with endless mopane plains,
and decor decisions that include faux animal-hide
fabrics. Safari means ‘journey’, and that’s exactly
what it should be: a transformative trip through
nature’s most inspiring landscapes, witnessing
its most awe-inspiring creatures. Since my first
research trip in 1998, when I sat metres from a lion
whose roar hit us at a full 115 decibels, juddering
the Land Rover and its human contents, I’ve been
hooked. And I have made good my promise to
make regular pilgrimages to the bush, not least to
hear – when night falls – the king signal that all is
well with his world.
The Best for the ‘Big Five’
Safari novices will want to see the ‘Big Five’ – elephant,
lion, leopard, rhino and buffalo – a term coined during the
great hunting expeditions of the last century, when these
prestigious trophies were considered the most dangerous
to kill. Today’s hunters are (mostly) armed with cameras,
but the thrill of seeing these creatures in their natural
environment remains. The following reserves are the best
not only because the Big Five occur in abundance, but the
vegetation is neither too dense nor too arid and affords a
great photographic backdrop.
1
54
southern Kruger National Park
The jewel in SANParks’ (South Africa National Parks)
crown, the Kruger stretches 381 kilometres from the
banks of the Crocodile River in the south to the Limpopo
River in the north, a massive 2.5 million hectares that
may 2009
is home to some 1 000 leopards, 12 500 elephants, 25 000
buffaloes, 2 000 lions, and 6 200 white and 350 black rhinos, the
latter species mostly concentrated in the southern third of the
park. And safari-goers can see them for a fraction of the price
they’d pay at any of the private reserves adjoining Kruger. ‘Nuff
said. Preferred camp: Lower Sabie, for the river views. From R275
(2-bed hut) and R645 (3-bed bungalow) to R2 020 (6-sleeper
guest house); 013-735-6056 or 082-888-6562, sanparks.org
2
MalaMala
Extending over 13 300 hectares, MalaMala shares a
19-kilometre unfenced border with the Kruger’s most
game-rich area; last year Big Five sightings were
recorded on all but nine days, with an average of
four separate leopard sightings per day. Better still, traversing
rights are reserved for guests, which makes for the lowest
vehicle density in the largest single private reserve in the region.
Stay at Rattray’s on MalaMala, $875/about R8 000 pp sharing
a luxury suite; 013-735-300, malamala.com
horizons
most elusive member: leopards were seen on 362 days in 2008
p ho togr aphs gr e at stock (open e r) ; afr ican im age ry; jacque s m arais; supplied
MalaMala is famous for its frequent sightings of the Big Five’s
3
Manyeleti
Created during the apartheid era as a ‘black’
Kruger, this 23 000-hectare public reserve borders
Sabi Sands to its south (Kruger is east; Timbavati
north), but has none of the cachet of its glitzy
neighbour. Only three private companies operate within a
few key concessions, making this in some ways a far more
exclusive experience than the pricier Sabi Sands. The only
drawback: no off-road driving allowed. Accommodation
options include Tintswalo Safari Lodge (tintswalo.com,
from R4 500 pp) or the Khoka Moya and Mantobeni
Camps (honeyguidecamp.com, from R3 500 pp).
4
Madikwe
At 75 000 hectares, South Africa’s fourth-largest
reserve has perhaps the most highly diverse
eco-zones, so much so that visitors are lured
with the promise of sighting the ‘Magnificent
Seven’ – the Big Five plus cheetahs and wild dogs, Africa’s
ba.com
previous spread
The absolute romance
of an elephant-back
safari (but only if it’s
ethically done)
THIS SPREAD (top row
from far left) Madikwe
Safari Lodge; the boma
before dinner at Phinda;
sunset game drive;
elephants explore
southern Kruger
(bottom row) pool deck
at Mantobeni Camp in
the Manyeleti reserve;
Rattray’s at MalaMala;
leopards can be the
most elusive of the Big
Five; a river cruise on
the Mzinene River at
Phinda Game Reserve
most endangered predator. To top it all, it’s malaria-free,
making this the best Big Five reserve for families with
young children. There are more than 20 accommodation
options, from self-catering to five-star luxury; a good
choice is Madikwe Safari Lodge, from R2 875 pp sharing;
011-315-6194, madikwe-game-reserve.co.za
5
Phinda
When it comes to guaranteed Big Five sightings,
KwaZulu-Natal’s Phinda is not quite in the same
league as the above, but for those seeking
diversity of game it’s a hands-down winner.
Aside from game drives, there are diving expeditions
to the coral reefs at nearby Mabibi and Sodwana, flights
over the Maputaland wilderness (including to Lake Sibaya,
the largest freshwater lake in southern Africa), deep-sea
fishing, turtle tracking, and canoeing and cruising the
Mzinene River. Phinda has a variety of accommodation in
different environments, including lodges and Getty House,
a sole-use villa (prices start from R3 295). phinda.com
may 2009
55
The best luxury lodges
South Africa has a reputation as the destination with the most
luxurious safari camps and lodges on the continent, and it’s true.
The following will have guests reluctant to leave the sanctuary of
their room, regardless of how good the game-viewing is. Lucky types
may even hope for a leopard sited near their suite, so they’ll be left
in peace to plunder the minibar.
1
2
Singita, Kruger Park
With its opening serendipitously coinciding with South Africa’s
first democratic elections, Singita immediately became an
international hit, wowing design-conscious travellers and
chalking up awards year-on-year, while gracing the pages of
chic magazines and coffee-table tomes. Everyone has their favourite
camp; Lebombo is mine. R9 950 pp sharing; 021-683-3424, singita.com
Vlei Camp, Phinda
When CC Africa (now &Beyond) launched Forest Camp
in their new 17 000-hectare reserve in 1993, these
Zen-like glass boxes were lauded as the most stylish
rooms in Africa. Personally, I found their forest setting
slightly claustrophobic, unlike the later addition Vlei Camp with its
gorgeous, exclusive setting: six glass-fronted timber dwellings,
each with a private plunge-pool set within the lush marshlands
and surrounded by woodland. Still my top pick in KwaZulu-Natal.
From R3 850 pp sharing; 011-809-4300, phinda.com
3
4
5
6
Londolozi, Sabi Sands
South Africa has a reputation as the destination
with the most luxurious safari camps and lodges on the
continent, and it’s true
The two Granite Private Suites located right on the Sand
River are arguably the best rooms in the greater Kruger
area, with private plunge pools that drop onto the boulders
that form the river’s banks, and close enough to hear the
water running while lying in bed. R8 500 pp sharing; 011-280-6655,
www.londolozi.com
Royal Malewane, Thornybush
Whether lying draped in Ralph Lauren linen in the antique,
canopied king-size bed or luxuriating in the elegant
claw-foot bathtub or huge open shower, guests will find
floor-to-ceiling windows provide wonderfully unobscured
bush views from the huge and very privately located suites.
Service, game-viewing and cuisine are as top-notch as the decor.
From R8 850 pp sharing; 015-793-0150, royalmalewane.com
Morukuru Lodge, Madikwe
The Outpost Lodge, Kruger Park
This is arguably the best-value luxury lodge in South
Africa, with superb accommodation and service
standards. Located in the far north, the lodge has only
one drawback: a lack of big cat action. Though guests
will certainly see elephants and buffaloes, lion and leopard sightings
are rare. If this doesn’t bother, the price – about a quarter of what
you pay for comparable luxury accommodations in Sabi Sands –
more than makes up for this. From R3 000 pp sharing; 011-245-5704,
www.theoutpost.co.za
56
may 2009
abovE (from top)
Singita Lebombo has
two bedrooms, one
inside and one alfresco;
a luxurious spread at
The Outpost in northern
Kruger; a romantic private
dinner at Royal Malewane
photog rap hs supplie d
Morukuru is for those who equate luxury with total
privacy. Just two sumptuous and privately appointed villas,
each with its own personal staff and linked by boardwalks,
overlook the banks of the Groot Marico River. The lodge
operates on an exclusive basis, so there are never any other guests
besides the main party, and those they’ve chosen to accompany
them (up to 10 people). From R35 000 per night for both villas,
bookings +31-22-929-9555, morukuru.com.
oppositE (from top)
Londolozi’s Granite Suite;
guests might have to
share their plunge pool
with a thirsty elephant
or impala at Phinda Vlei
horizons
ba.comAPRIL 2009
65
The thrill of sleeping under canvas is unbeatable, and
when the night is rent by the roar of a lion, you’ll sleep as
close to your partner as you did on your wedding night
The best tented camps
4
The thrill of having nothing but canvas between you
and the wilderness is unbeatable, particularly in an
East African-style safari tent with all the luxuries: a
great mattress, reading lamps, a proper bathroom,
dressing room and shaded veranda. And when the
night is rent by the roar of a lion, you’ll sleep as close
to your partner as you did on your wedding night.
1
This classic Wilderness Safaris camp has
a great location, with 20 tents connected
via a 2 000-metre long raised boardwalk
along the forested banks of the Luvuvhu River in the
vast Makuleke Contractual Park, northern Kruger.
There is only one other camp near here, so guests are
surrounded by kilometres of untouched wilderness.
It has a great sense of remoteness that makes up for
the relative lack of Big Five sightings. From R1 950
pp sharing (two-night minimum stay); 011-257-5111,
www.pafuri.com
Ngala Tented Camp,
Timbavati
Built and managed by &Beyond, this is
one of the most luxurious tented camps in
southern Africa, comprising six huge, deluxe,
en-suite tents on the banks of the Timbavati River.
With operating rights within 14 000 hectares of land
bordering the Kruger Park, it also provides some of
the best game viewing outside of Sabi Sands. From
R3 850 pp sharing; 011-809-4300, andbeyondafrica.com
2
p hoto grap hs supplie d
3
Camp Shawu, Kruger Park
With a stunning setting on a dam that
attracts loads of wildlife, including
rhinos, lions and elephants (and home to
a resident pod of hippos), this intimate
luxury camp – it has only five units – is
located in a Kruger concession set in the extreme
southeast, bordering Mozambique and the Crocodile
River. From R2 360 pp sharing; 0861-000-333,
www.threecities.co.za
ba.com
5
Tamboti, Kruger Park
A satellite of nearby Orpen, SANParks’ only
standalone tented camp is the best-value
tented camp in Africa. Comprising 40 twobed tents tucked away among apple leaf,
jackalberry and sycamore fig trees, all have views
of the Timbavati River and the wildlife it attracts.
It’s understandably popular so book well in advance
(note that as a satellite camp, it has no restaurant
or cleaning staff). R675 for a fully equipped tent;
R295 for a tent with communal ablutions and kitchen;
013-735-6355 or 082-802-0686, sanparks.co.za
Mantobeni Tented Camp,
Manyeleti
This tented stalwart predates almost all
others on this list but remains one of
my favourites; an unpretentious camp with
just 12 East African-style safari tents set on raised
wooden decks in a riverine forest, with plenty of Out
of Africa touches, such as damask linen and lanterns.
Relatively good value too. From R3 350 pp sharing;
011-341-0282, honeyguidecamp.com
Pafuri Camp,
Kruger Park
oppositE (clockwise
from top left) The cosy
tents at Ngala are
among the most
luxurious in SA; the
lounge area inside a
Ngala tent; a Mantobeni
tent’s verandah, perfect
for lazy game-viewing;
Hemingway would have
liked the Plains Camp in
Kruger; its tents blend
perfectly into the bush;
Mantobeni’s camping is
classy and comfortable
6
Plains Camp,
Kruger Park
Sharing a border with MalaMala Game
Reserve, this massive 12 000 hectare
‘restricted wilderness’ concession allows
no off-road game drives. The focus at this explorerstyle, four-unit tented camp is firmly on walking – it
belongs to Rhino Walking Safaris. Guests are also
given the opportunity to overnight at the camp’s
‘sleep-out digs’ deep in the bush (70 minutes on foot
from Plains Camp), where tents have been erected
on decks high up on stilts at a watering hole. From
R2 365 pp sharing; 011-467-1886, isibindi.co.za
may 2009
59
Seal pups are an all-time favourite great white shark
snack – so much so that the channel between Dyer and
Geyser islands is called ‘Shark Alley’
Every year, billions of sardines followed by hundreds
of predators move along the South African coast – a
migration to rival that of the Serengeti. There are also
year-round opportunities to encounter sharks, turtles,
whales and dolphins in South Africa’s two oceans.
1
Shark-cage diving, Dyer
Island Nature Reserve
Dyer and Geyser islands, in Walker Bay near
Gansbaai in the Western Cape, are favourites
of the jackass penguin and breeding seals,
whose pups are an all-time favourite great white shark
snack – so much so that the channel between the
islands is called ‘Shark Alley’. Human visitors stand an
excellent chance of seeing a white shark – either from a
boat or, for those who prefer to get a closer look, from
within a cage lowered into the water by one of the eight
60May 2009
3
licensed operators. The best time of the year is April to
mid-June/July; operators with the best eco-credentials
are Marine Dynamics (sharkwatchsa.com) and White
Shark Projects (whitesharkprojects.co.za).
2
Whale-watching,
Plettenberg Bay
Apart from the Bryde whale, the Indo-Pacific
humpback and the bottlenose and common
dolphins that feed off the Plettenberg
Bay coast year-round, the marine-rich bay also enjoys
seasonal visits from southern rights and even the
occasional killer whale as they move along the coast
during their annual migration (July to October).
Long-running operator Ocean Blue Adventures
(oceanadventures.co.za) is licensed to approach the
whales, and along the way the coastal and pelagic bird
life and historical and geological make-up of the bay are
also discussed. They also offer sea-kayaking tours, as do
Dolphin Adventures (www.dolphinadventures.co.za).
horizons
p ho togr aphs african im agery; supplied
The best SEAside safaris
Diving the
Sardine Run
Annually, from mid-June to July,
some
three-billion
sardines,
accompanied
by
migrating
whales, and followed by hundreds
of dolphins, sharks, seals, cormorants
and gannets, move from the cold Atlantic
waters to the warm subtropical Indian
Ocean. Touted as ‘the greatest dive show
in the world’ by National Geographic, it’s
a must on every serious diver’s do-beforeI-die list. Most packages run for around
eight days, with divers based at Mbotyi
River Lodge on the Transkei Wild Coast –
contact Oceans Africa Diving Adventures
(oceansafrica.com) or SEAL Expeditions
(sardinerun.net). There are also daily charters
from Shelly Beach on the South Coast to
witness the migration from a boat.
ba.com
4
Turtle-tracking
and snorkelling,
Maputaland
Every year from November to
January the rare loggerhead
and leatherback turtles return to the very
beaches they were born on to nest and lay
their eggs in the soft sand. The best place
to witness this ancient ritual is at those most
exclusive of North Coast beaches, Rocktail
Bay and Mabibi. Both are blessed with
coral reefs and fabulous lodgings: Thonga
Beach Lodge (from R2 280 pp sharing a
seaview room; isibindiafrica.co.za), which
also offers treatments at its ‘sea spa’; and
Rocktail Beach Camp (R1 350 pp sharing;
rocktailbay.com), set back from the beach
in the coastal forest. The popular Rocktail
Bay Lodge is being rebuilt and will be
closed for the rest of this year.
abovE See how they
swim during the Sardine
Run, either from the
deck of a boat or with
scuba gear attached
oppositE (top row)
Close encounters with
dolphins and whales
off Plettenberg Bay;
(bottom right) ready
to dive with the sharks
in Walker Bay; (bottom
left) turtle hatchlings
make their way to the
water’s edge in KZN’s
Maputaland Reserve
may 2009
61
adventure safaris
Mountain-bikers cycle
through Kruger’s mopane
veld on trails crossed by
‘wild highways’ – game
paths trodden by hippos
and other animals
The Outpost
Lodge
oppositE (clockwise
from top) Swapping
Pafuri Camp
four wheels for two
on mountain bikes in
the Kruger Park; a horse
rider’s-eye view of
KRUGER
NATIONAL
PARK
the bush; tracking
elephants and other
beasts on foot; rhinos
prefer horses to Landys
Phalaborwa
Olifants Rest
Camp
Timbavati
Hoedspruit
Tamboti
Kapama
Singita Lebombo
Thornybush
Manyeleti
Londolozi
MalaMala
Plains Camp
Lower Sabie
Camp Shawu
Komatipoort
Kruger National
Park (see above)
Madikwe
Waterberg
p hoto grap hs jacque s mar ais; supplied
Johannesburg
Maputaland
Phinda
SOUTH AFRICA
atlantic
ocean
Shelly Beach
Mbotyi
indian ocean
Cape Town
Walker Bay
ba.com
Durban
Imfolozi
Plettenberg Bay
Port Elizabeth
Personally, I’m happiest stretched out on a deck, having my
feet rubbed while watching animals trundling to the requisite
waterhole. But for those less sedentary, there are more
exhilarating ways to experience the bush.
1
Rhino Tracking, Imfolozi
Tracking Africa’s most primitive-looking mammal (dating
from the Miocene era and pretty much unchanged
for millions of years) is one of the most thrilling safari
experiences on the continent, and the best place to do so
is in the 25 000-hectare Imfolozi wilderness. Access to this reserve
in KwaZulu-Natal has only ever been on foot, making it one of the
largest areas of pristine reserve in Africa, and the place where –
thanks to the efforts of conservationist Ian Player – the white rhino
population made a monumental comeback, from fewer than 100 in
the 1920s to more than 7 000 worldwide today. Trails from R1 870
pp for three nights; 033-845-1000, kznwildlife.com
2
Elephant-back safaris, Kapama
Offering a unique vantage over the African bush and
its inhabitants, who are less spooked by the presence
of an elephant than a vehicle, this kind of safari is a
very special experience – assuming the elephants are
ethically sourced and trained, as human-habituated elephants can
never return to the wilds and require extensive feeding and sensitive
care. Camp Jabulani, located in Kapama – a Big Five ‘island’
reserve in the Kruger area – was last year’s winner in the
Leading Eco Retreat category at the Amarula Best Retreats in
Africa Awards, not least because of its elephants. Aside from
Jabulani, an abandoned orphan nursed back to health, there
are 12 Zimbabwean elephants – each tagged for their meat
by war veterans before Lente Roode stepped in and rescued
them. Jabulani leads the elephant-back safaris, in some ways
most magical at night, when these gentle giants carry their
passengers under a glittering, star-studded sky. From R6 500 pp
sharing; 012-460-5605, campjabulani.com
3
Horse Riding, Waterberg
Based in the beautiful, malaria-free Waterberg, a Unesco
biosphere reserve, Horizon Horseback has over 80 horses
catering for all levels of rider. Riders will encounter rhinos,
hippos, buffaloes, giraffes, ostriches, zebras and brown
hyenas as well as a wide variety of antelope on private reserves
in the area. For the complete Big Five riding experience, Horizon
combines with Limpopo Valley Horse Safaris in Botswana, based in
Mashatu, for an eight-night horseback safari. From £1 040/about
R14 000 pp (four nights in Waterberg); Big Five safari in Botswana
from £1 940/about R26 000. 014-755-4003; ridinginafrica.com
4
Biking
A relatively recent innovation in the Kruger Park is the
half- or full-day guided mountain-bike trails departing
from Olifants Rest Camp. These cycling safaris are
limited to six participants per trail (book in advance,
013-735-6606; R300 pp half-day, R600 full day) and led by two
qualified and armed field guides. The three routes are graded
according to difficulty and technicality (the Hardekool Draai trail
is recommended for beginners). It’s a great way to explore the
Kruger Park and Olifants, one of my favourite camps situated high
on a rocky outcrop. From R530 (bungalow for two) to R2 020 (fully
equipped 4-bedroom guest house); 082-888-6563, sanparks.org
may 2009
63