Greddy E-manage Ultimate Install Write

Greddy E-manage Ultimate
Install Write-Up (95 Nissan Maxima)
Shopping:
1) Soldering Kit:
2) Wires, Up to you for the extra pizzazz.:
3) Greddy E-manage Ultimate (c) Unit w/Wires and MAP Sensor.
4) Greddy E-manage Ultimate Aux Wires for MAPS and A/F.
5) PLX M-300 Wideband Unit. (Optional)
6) Custom Wiring Harness from www.Digikey.com (800-344-4539)
a. (?x) Amp# 794210-1 (mini-lock plug)
b. (?x) Amp# 794211-1 (receptacle)
c. (20x) Amp# 794230-1 (connecting pin)
d. (20x) Amp# 794231-1 (receiving pin)
7) (6x) 330ohm, ½ Watt or 390 ohm ½ Watt Resistors (RadioShack)
$10
$20
$480
$55
$280
$1.66 ea
$1.92 ea
$0.14 ea
$0.14 ea
$1.00 ea
Here’s a view of the Harness Adaptors we will use from digikey:
Here’s a close up on the connectors, they are squeeze lock styles, very dependable, no
soldering is needed:
EU Pin/Jumper switches:
JP01= Injector I/O Channel 1
JP02= Injector I/O Channel 2
JP03= Injector I/O Channel 3
JP04= Injector I/O Channel 4
JP05= Injector I/O Channel 5
JP06= Injector I/O Channel 6
JP07= Ignition Input Signal
JP08= Ignition Output Signal
JP09= Airflow Signal I/O
JP10= Airflow Signal 2 / Vtec Output (Change to 2-3 for RPM sw)
JP11= Option 1 (MAP Sensor)
JP12= Option 2 (WideBand O2)
JP13= Knock Signal Input 1 / Water Temp Input (pin#32 in C-connector)
JP14= Knock Signal Input 2 / Intake Temp Input (pin#38 in C-connector)
JP15= RPM Signal Input (set to 2-3 if using coil tach signal)
JP16= Frequency Input / Vtec Input (pin#13 in B-connector)
JP17= Frequency Output / Vtec Output (pin#21 in B-connector)
JP18= Injector Input / Output Signal Ch 1-6
JP19= Injector Signal Ch-A
JP20= Injector Signal Ch-B
Jumper Locations are in the figure below:
Open
Open
Open
Open
Open
Open
1-2
1-2
Open
1-2
Open
Open
Open
Open
1-2
Open
1-2
Open
1-2
1-2
Setting the Jumpers is easy:
1) Remove all four hex screws (2.5mm) from the front panel (the face with the dip
switches).
2) Remove 2 Phillip screws from under the EU unit.
3) Slide the whole IC board out from the front panel.
4) Locate the pin locations and follow the pin settings described.
Wiring Diagram: (Simple scheme)
Figure below is a simple schematic overview of how the harnesses and wires are to put
together for the EU Setup. (By sorting the wires out, everything becomes much easier)
Wiring Diagram: (Detailed Scheme)
•
•
•
Pink routes are inputs and outputs for injectors and Ignitions.
Blue routes are tapped wires: ground, power, signals. (solder the taps
are strongly recommended)
Orange routes are cut offs and are re-routed by EU.
Step One: Preparing the wires
The wires aren’t as bad as they seem. The org members so far have provided some really
good diagrams already. As for my case, I meant to install some wiring harnesses so that I
can plug-n-play my EU whenever I want to. And if I had to take it off, I can just snap the
original wiring harness back on. This is where DigiKey’s wiring harness kit solved my
problems.
General Approach to sorting out the wires:
The EU wires are pretty straight forward; here are a few highlights before you begin:
• EU wires consist mostly of double colored wires. “Indicator / Base” is how I’m
going to address their wiring colors. For example, “White / DBlue” = a “Dark
blue” base color with a thin “White” indicator color. This indicator is crucial in
determining the right set of wires to use.
• The ignition wires are channel matching in base colors, the inputs have white
indicators and outputs have black indicators.
• The injector wires also have channel matching base colors; input indicators are
Red and output indicators are Gray.
• Start with ignition and injector (I/O) wires first, and then go to the sensors and
lastly, the power and the grounds. (there is a sensor ground and ECC ground,
make sure to differentiate those wires)
************************* Here’s how I did my wires *********************
1) Follow the “Detailed Scheme” diagram and sort out the wires from the EU
harness first. I used Scotch tape and Permanent Marker to mark the wires to
match in from the ECU. (Here’s the 6 input ignition wires):
2) After the wires are sorted out, it’s time to crimp’em:
a. Notice how in the “Simple Schemes” diagram, the inputs from the ECU
go into Male (top bundle) and Female (bottom bundle) connectors? This
is done to prevent a mix up if EU has to be removed in the future for any
reason.
b. This is also the reason why you would have to be careful on crimping the
pins. The pins are needle heads for the male connectors and socket heads
for the female connectors. You’d have to sort that out according to the
schematics I have.
c. A picture of one of my wires crimped. This is an ignition wire going into
the exiting male connector. It’s a male pin.
d. Just basically follow the “Detailed Schemes” and place all the pins in the
right places. Again, start with Ignition and Injector (I/O)’s first. It’ll cut
down your confusions and save some time.
3) When all the necessary wires are crimped with the required pins, it’s time to insert
them into the connectors. I will demonstrate an example on “one” wire here.
a. Insert the pin into the hind end of the connector; be sure the connector
bobs aren’t joined together, yet. Also, upon inserting the pins, do not go
too far, there’s a snapping point you can reach, and do not go pass that.
Here’s an example on one ignition wire:
b. After inserting the pin, just snap the bobs together, it’ll squeeze lock the
pin in place and it will not come out unless you release the locking bobs.
Be sure that all the pins are inserted at the snapping point. If the pin is
inserted too short into it, it’ll just come out. If the pin is inserted too far,
it’ll just simply prevent the bobs from coming together.
Here is an example on the same ignition wire:
Additional note: when you finish all the pins for the ignition input female
connector, it should look a little something like this:
Then just snap the bobs together, and it’ll look like this:
From the above 2 pictures, these are the ignition input female bundle. The
red Heat Shrink wrappers are the ignition wires, and the blue Heat Shrink
wrappers are for the sensor wires. Shrink wrap because they are wiretapped for other purposes. “Electrical tape is thick and messy for this
application.” Color-code them to prevent confusions.
--Ignition wires are from Connector A, they are tapped with Resistors;
thus the red Heat Shrink Wrappers.
--Temp and Crank Sensors wires are Connector B’s. They are tapped, so
blue Heat Shrink Wrappers.
--In the very middle, there’s a yellow / light blue wire, that’s the VSS.
c. Tapping the wires is easy, Strip out the wire wrap in the place you want to
tap, and make way a hole that you can wrap a wire into it. It’s like T-ing a
wire. Here’s an example: Notice both ends are crimped with pins already.
Then insert the tapping wire, wrap it, soldering recommended. Heat
Shrink wraps are used instead of electrical tapes because electrical tapes
can lose its affinity, and it’s also a mess to wrap around these little wires.
Here’s a picture of it tapped:
d. Tap and solder the resistors into place for the ignition inputs. Resistors
have no current polarities. So, any direction you put them is fine. You’d
have to be sure that they don’t touch each other at the signal side. They all
come together to one grounding, so you solder them all to one ground
wire, ECU#32. In my Schematic Diagrams, you will see that I tapped
them all into the ECU grounding wire on the bottom connector bundles.
This is the only time the 2 bundles are directly connected together. Here’s
a view of my soldering: (be sure to place shrink wraps on the wires before
you solder them.
e. Here’s a view of it before resistor tap:
f. Here’s a view after resistor tap:
Generally, in this big step #2, you are to sort the wires out, pin them, tap them, solder the
resistors, and bob them together into the connectors. Be sure to get them right. My
Detailed Schematic Diagram should be the governing guide to help you throughout the
wiring installation. It is up to your discretion on where you would like to locate those
wires into the connectors. But make sure they correspond logically in the correct
positions in and out through the OEM wires.
When you finish wiring, you should get something close to this:
(I’ve also taped up the resistor bundles here.)
Here’s my friend demanding a picture with the finished product: (He helped me solder
the resistors together)
After EU wiring harnesses are completed. It’s down-hills after that. You’ll just have to
go to your car, find those wires in the pin-out diagram below, cut them up, crimp them
with the according male and female pins, “bob” them in the corresponding male and
female connectors, and snap all the connectors together. You’re done with the
installation.
Here’s a diagram of the ECU pin-outs: (I rigged this from DandyMax of the ORG)
Credits:
DandyMax of the maxima.org—the official guiny test pig of the EU. He’s
the major pioneering guy to make this possible for all of us. He helped me
out with lots of wiring issues, and setup issues.
Kevlo911 of the Maxima.org—the official information post-whore on
maxima.org in my book. I’ve consulted him more than anyone else in doing
this setup.
Drew—the guy in the last picture. He is an electrical-computer engineering
student in LSU, also my co-worker. Very knowledgeable in electronics and
handy in soldering crafts.