File

The Basics
Materials and Sources
Cord
My 3 favorite cords: (photo - from left to right):
• Omega No. 2 Nylon Crochet Thread,
• Bonded Twine, and
• C-lon Bead Cord
Size of gauge and suppleness versus stiffness are the main
considerations in choosing a cord. Size, of course is important as you
need a cord to be able to pass through the holes in the beads! Sometimes
up to 4 strands at a time. As for suppleness vs stiffness - in ropey
designs like the Spirals Lariats, I like suppleness. In other pieces, body is better and is achieved with a
stiffer cord.
C-lon Bead Cord (not to be confused with C-lon bead thread) - I discovered this cord in January 2007.
I love it. Its gauge is narrow enough to fit through most size 11 seed beads (without too much
difficulty). It comes in over 104 colors. Made of nylon, it is durable yet has an organic look and feel. It
runs a bit stiff, giving body to whatever piece I use it in.
Note:
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Sizing can be confusing. There are (so far) only 4 sizes (from the heaviest to the finest):
C-lon Tex 400 Bead Cord (heavier gauge) in 24 colors
C-lon Bead Cord (described above) in 104 colors
C-lon Tex 135 Bead Cord(fine weight) in 24 colors
C-lon Micro Bead cord (extra fine) in 32 colors
I have only tried "C-lon Bead Cord". I do have a spool of Tex 400 and it appears comparable to the
Bonded Twine (below) but with more body (stiffness).
Source: www..JewelsinFiber.com - Her prices are reasonable, and she provides excellent customer
service.
Bonded Twine a.k.a. Macrame Beading Cord - This cord is the heaviest gauge of cord that I work with.
I use this cord in designs that don't need the tiny seed beads and for items that need a bit of heft. I think
this is a great cord for beginners. It is too heavy a gauge to use with most size 11 seed beads, but I
have had good luck using it with some Jablonex® Ornela Czech brand seed beads. See "Beads" below
for more info.
Source: So far, the only place I know to get bonded twine is at www.FireMountainGems.com. It
comes in 14 colors.
Omega Brand Nylon Crochet Thread #2 - I used this for years before I discovered C-lon bead cord.
It is supple and works great for items that need to drape. I also use it in my beaded crochet pieces. It
comes in 80 colors, many quite vibrant.
It has a slightly heavier gauge, which sometimes makes it difficult to thread through the holes in some
brands of size 11 seed beads. Dynamite and Jablonex® Ornela Czech brands seed beads are the most
reliable (in hole size), that I have found for this cord. It can be challenging to work with in other ways
as well. (see Tips and Terminology for some tips on dealing with the ends)
Source: I find it at my local Hobby Lobby store, but they do not always have it in stock or they do not
always have all the colors. I have found it online (various sites), but have not yet ordered from any of
them.
Beads
Although, I like to play with a wide variety of beads, and there are some very beautiful beads out there;
not all of them will work with my designs. The biggest problem I run into is hole size. Some of my
designs require as many as 4 strands of cord to pass through.
Through trial and error, I have found beads that work. I will discuss them below. If I don't mention a
bead as working with a particular cord, either I have not tried it or it didn't work. Please keep in mind
that beads can vary in size from batch to batch as well as within a batch.
Source: I get most of my beads at www.firemountaingems.com.
Seed Beads
Size 11 - (photo, far left) Most any brand will work with C-lon Bead
Cord. Following is a breakdown of those I have tried.
Delicas are very uniform and have a very nice hole size. Works very
well with most of the cords I use.
Dynamites are a bit varied within a batch in size of bead (giving a more
organic look) and in size of the hole. Works great with C-lon cord. Due
to the variable hole size, some beads in a batch won't work with the
Omega crochet thread #2 and so far, none have worked well with the Bonded Twine.
Jablonex® Ornela Czech seed beads are quite beautiful. Their pearls series have the smallest holes, but
work pretty well with C-lon cord (with some in a batch that just won't work). The transparent rainbow
series have the largest holes and work great with C-lon Bead Cord, Omega Crochet Thread #2, and
even Bonded Twine.
Size 8 - (photo, middle) Will easily accommodate 2 strands of C-lon Bead Cord or Omega Crochet
Thread #2. Very useful as accent beads.
Size 6 - (photo, far right) The silver-lined series have the smallest holes and will only accommodate 4
strands of C-lon Bead Cord or Omega Crochet Thread #2 or 2-3 strands of Bonded Twine. The other
series will usually accommodate up to 6 strands of C-lon Bead Cord or Omega Crochet Thread #2 with
some beads in a batch falling short or 3-4 strands of bonded twine.
Fringe Beads - Another favorite of mine (and included in the "seed bead" category at Fire Mountain
Gems) is the fringe bead. It is basically a small teardrop with a horizontal hole (from side to side).
Cubes - Also found in the“seed beads” category at Fire Mountain Gems, these little cubes are about
4mm in size and have a generous hole size.
Bugle Beads - Also included in the "seed bead" category at Fire Mountain Gems, bugle beads are those
long tubular ones. They come in a variety of sizes and lengths. Some of them even have large enough
holes for Bonded Twine or 2 strands of C-lon Bead Cord!
Focal Beads:
(Photo, left):
• Top Row - Czech Fire-Polished Faceted Crystals (from left to
right - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm with hole up and lastly, one 8mm on
its side).
• Bottom Row - Czech Druk Beads (from left to right - 6mm, 8mm,
10mm with hole up and lastly, one 8mm on its side).
• Middle - strands (from top to bottom) of Omega Crochet Thread
#2, Bonded Twine, and C-lon Bead Cord)
Czech Fire-polished Faceted Glass Rounds - These have the most consistent and generous hole
sizes. I most commonly use 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm sizes. They work well in all my designs.
Czech Druk Glass Rounds - These beads have slightly smaller holes than the faceted crystals above.
They are pretty consistent within a series and within a batch, but some of the series (like the "satin"
finish) have even smaller holes. The most reliable are the transparent glass rounds.
Pressed Glass Beads in various shapes - I really love to experiment with the different shapes, but the
holes are typically small. Some of the smaller sized beads will accommodate only one strand of cord
and the larger beads will only accommodate 2 strands (of either C-lon or Omega cords).
Some of my favorite shapes are:
• Large Teardrops - great way to finish earrings and pendants.
• Small Teardrops and Flower Cones (hole from top to bottom) - great in tassels.
• Ovals - often a good substitute for rounds in a design.
Gemstone Chips - I enjoy experimenting with gemstone chips. I love the colors and the organic look.
Chips offer a bit of chaos that I believe adds interest. The hole sizes are typically small, but will usually
accommodate 1 strand of C-lon cord.
Glues, Etc
Clear Fingernail Polish - Used to stiffen the ends of the cord and to prevent fraying, see Tips and
Terminology for more information.
Fabric Glue - To secure end knots, I apply some fabric glue (for attaching jewels, beads, & rhinestones
to fabric). I dilute it slightly and use a small artist's brush to apply the glue to the end knots. I
recommend fabric glues that dry clear and flexible. Once dry, they should be water resistant (or
washable as the label usually states).
Source: Local hobby stores.
Closures/Findings:
I use a variety of closures, but my favorite is buttons for everything (except earrings of course!). They
come in plastic, metals, glass, and many other materials. I recommend buttons with shanks. Make sure
the shank has a hole big enough for your chosen project.
Source: You can find buttons in local sewing and hobby stores, as well as some antique shops (vintage
buttons can be quite interesting).
I also use either gold- or silver-plated lobster claw clasps, split rings (5mm and 8mm for jewelry and
the really large ones for key rings), and ear wires. There are lots of lovely clasps out there and I have
experimented with some, but I keep going back to my buttons. Once you get the hang of micro
macrame, you will probably want to experiment with some different clasps for yourself.
Source: I get mine at Fire Mountain Gems, but most jewelry supply or hobby stores will carry some.
Work Surface:
I got lucky with that Puzzle Brand mousepad I mentioned in the Introduction. I have been unable to
find another one - even after 30 minutes doing searches on the internet. Alas, all the new ones are too
thin - I know, I tried. Luckily, when my old Puzzle pad finally wore out, my hubbie had some really
thick, really firm foam rubber and cut it to size for me.
But this wouldn't help my customers so I needed to find an alternative. Then, a customer of mine
found the perfect pad for making micro macrame jewelry. She graciously shared it with me and I am
sharing it with you. She uses a gardening kneeling pad...At 15" x 12.5", it is a great size to place in
your lap. At 3/4 inches thick, it is thick enough to grip those pins you stick in it.
Source: Find one online (I know Amazon.com used to carry them) or perhaps at your local gardening
supply store.
Reading in various books on macrame, I see macrame boards, and cork boards mentioned . I have
never tried the macrame boards, but I did try a cork (bulletin type) board, once. The cork board did
work, but not nearly so well as my trusty mousepad. My mousepad is not only thick, but the foam
rubber part is nice and dense. It grabs and holds my pins securely as I pull on it while knotting.
Source: Find macrame or cork boards at most hobby stores.
Miscellaneous:
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Dress pins for pinning work to work surface.
Needle-nosed pliers for attaching clasps and ear wires to split rings.
Small artist's brush for applying glue.
Magnifying eyeglasses for close up viewing (if like me, your eyesight is not as good as it used
to be)
Bead reamer for enlarging holes in beads. Tiresome but worth it for some beads. Be sure to go
easy so as not to crack your bead!
Basic Knots
Slip Knot (SK) - Used for securing ends of cords to work surface. Here I have used 2 strands
together, but you can secure cords individually or in larger groups.
Step 1: Place pin in work
surface where you want the
ends to be secured - just far
enough from where you will
be knotting to give you
plenty of room to work.
Bring cord(s) end(s) around
pin and back over as shown.
Step 2: Tuck some of the cord(s) back under the first segment and then over the second segment
(basically going through the “loop” and creating a second “loop”.
Step 3: Pull this second “loop” tight and leave the ends free. Just pull on the ends to release the cords.
Mounting cords onto split rings
For a Mount that looks like a row of Double Half-Hitches (DHH's):
(photos 1 &2)) Take one strand of cord, fold in half and thread the ends up through the ring from
underneath. Pull almost all the way through, leaving a “loop”. Bring the ends back down through the
"loop". Pull tight and repeat with as many cords as needed.
For a Mount that looks like a row of Lark's Head Knots (LHK's):
(photo 3) Take one strand of cord, fold in half and thread the ends down through the ring from above.
Pull almost all the way through, leaving a “loop”. Bring the ends back up through the "loop". Pull tight
and repeat with as many cords as needed.
Overhand Knot (OHK)
Step 1: (photo 1) Bring the end of strand up
and cross it over itself, back under and through
the loop formed.
Step 2: (photo 2) Using a pin as shown in
photos, tighten and slide knot up where desired
(usually up close to a previously strung bead).
This takes a little practice. Leave the pin in until
you are satisfied - Makes it easier to undo the
knot and try again.
Half Knot (HK) and Square Knot (SQK)
Half Knot (from the right):
(photos 1 & 2) Designate the cord in the middle as a holding cord (HC) and the other two as knotting
cords (KCs). Bring right KC over HC and under left KC. Take left KC back up and under both right
KC and the HC. Pull end up through loop formed, passing over right KC this time. Pull tight.
Repeating the Half Knot will result in a “spiral” rope.
Half Knot (from the left):
(photos 3 & 4) Bring left KC over HC and under right KC. Bring right KC back up and under both left
KC and HC, then up through loop formed, and finally over left KC. Pull tight.
Square Knot:
(photo 5) Make a HK from the right and one from the left. Pull tight. Repeating the Square Knot will
result in a “flat” rope.
Lark’s Head Knot (LHK)
(from the right):
Step 1: (photo 1) Designate the purple cord as the holding cord (HC) and the brown one as the right
knotting cord (KC). Take the right KC and bring it over the HC, then back under. Continue, bringing
KC over itself.
Step 2: (photos 2 & 3) Pull tight and bring right KC under HC, back over HC and under itself. Pull
tight.
Step 3: (photo 4) Repeat several times, this rope is especially nice for button holes.
(from the left):
Step 1: (photo 5) Designate green cord as left knotting cord (KC). Take left KC and bring it over the
HC, then back under. Continue, bringing left KC over itself.
Step 2: (photos 6 & 7) Pull tight and bring left KC under HC, back over HC and under itself. Pull
tight.
Step 3: (photo 8) Repeat several times.
Double Half-Hitch (DHH) - Horizontal
Step 1: (photo 1) Number the cords 1 through 6 from left to right. Place a pin into work surface as
shown. Bring Cord 1 over the other cords and up to the right until it is perpendicular to the other cords
and pin its end to work surface. It is now your holding cord (HC). All the others will be knotting cords
(KCs). Bring Cord 2 up over the HC, then down and under the HC and over itself. You have just made
a Half-Hitch (HH).
Step 2: (photos 2 & 3) Repeat HH. Don't worry that the first HH seems to have moved out of
alignment. Pull tight. You may need to tighten and hold the first HH while pulling tight on the 2nd one.
You have just made a Double Half-Hitch (DHH).
Step 3: (photo 4) Repeat DHHs with cords 3-6.
Step 4: (photos 5 & 6) Place a pin just under and just to the right of the last knot made. Un-pin the
HC and bring it back around this new pin and over the KC, just below the first row of knots. Pin its
end to work surface. With cord 6, make HH. Pull tight. Note: It will be easier to keep this HH in place
while performing the next one.
Step 5: (photos 7 & 8) Make the second HH with cord 6. Pull tight.
Step 6: (photo 9) Repeat DHHs with cords 5-2. This makes two rows of Horizontal DHHs.
Double Half-Hitches (DHH) - Diagonal - Diagonal Half-Hitches are worked the same as for the
Horizontal ones, only at an angle. Continuing from where we left off with the Horizontal DHH’s:
Step 1: (photos 1 & 2) Number the cords 1-6 from left to right. Place a new pin just to the left and just
under the first knot on the left. Unpin the HC and bring it down over the other cords at an angle of
about 45 degrees. Pin its end to work surface. With cord 2, make a DHH.
Step 2: (photo 3) Repeat Diagonal DHHs with cords 3-6.
Step 3: (photo 4) Unpin HC and let it hang down next to the other cord. It will now be another K C.
Re-number the cords 1-6 from left to right (previous HC is now cord 6). Place a new pin just under the
first DHH (on the left) and just to the right of cord 1. With cord 1 as the HC, bring it parallel to the
previous row of diagonal DHHs and pin its end to work surface.
Step 4: (photo 5) Make DHHs with Cords 2-6.
Step 5: (photo 6) To angle back the other way, place a new pin just under the last knot and just to the
left of the HC. Unpin the HC and bring it across the other cords at an angle. Make DHHs with cords
6-2.
Alternating Half-Hitch Chain
Step 1: Using the cord on the right as a holding cord (HC),
and the one on the left as the knotting cord (KC): Take the
end of the KC over and back under the HC; then up through
the loop formed. Pull tight.
Step 2: Reverse by using the cord on the left as HC and the
one on the right as KC. Take the end the KC over and back
under the HC; then up through the loop formed. Pull tight.
Tips and Terminology
Terminology:
Knotting Cords are the ones used to make the knots
Holding Cords are the ones (usually pinned to work surface) that hold the knots.
Abbreviations:
KC - Knotting cord
HC - Holding cord
OHK - Overhand Knot
SLK - Slip Knot
HK - Half Knot
SQK - Square Knot
HH - Half Hitch
DHH - Double Half Hitch
AHHC - Alternating Half Hitch Chain
LHK - Lark's Head Knot
#6 seed bead - size 6 seed bead
#8 seed bead - size 8 seed bead
#11 seed bead - size 11 seed bead
Important: For consistency sake: Decide your dominant side and always work from that side. I am
right side dominant, so I always work from the right and I write instructions accordingly. Exceptions:
when the design calls for specific effect requiring reversal. For example, I make all my Half Knots
from the right except when making Square Knots. When making Square Knots, I first make Half Knot
from the right, then one from the left. When making earrings, work the first one according to your
dominant side. When making the 2nd one, work from the non-dominant side.
To stiffen the ends of the cord, making it easier to string the beads: Snip the ends of the cord on a
diagonal (making a point). Brush the ends of the strands of cord with clear finger nail polish. Twist the
ends with thumb and forefinger (following the natural twist of the cord). You will get a little polish on
your fingers which you can get off with polish remover. (Using fingers helps prevent polish from
drying unevenly.) Let dry. Recent tip received from another beader is to apply super glue near the end
of the cord, leaving a tail to hold. Twist and hold til dry, then snip the end diagonally. This keeps the
glue off your fingers. I have not tried it this way, but it sounds like a good idea.
Tip to make working with the Omega crochet thread a little easier: After painting the end of the
cord with clear fingernail polish and twisting it tight, let it dry completely (it may take several hours -
sometimes I leave it overnight). This will make the ends nice and stiff for sticking through those bead
holes.
Since the Omega crochet thread is not bonded, you may note that it sometimes splays a bit at the end.
Just wait for it to dry and snip it further back (on the diagonal). Repaint lightly with more clear
fingernail polish. Let it dry again for about a half hour.
When you are painting it for the first time, paint an inch or two. Then if it frays while you are working
on a project, all you need to do is trim a bit off, repaint lightly, let dry for a few minutes and you are
back in business.
Placing pins - I make suggestions throughout the various projects on where to place pins. You may
find you need more or less pins, feel free to place pins where you find them most helpful.
We all make mistakes. When I need to undo knots, I use a pin and carefully pick the knots loose.
Something to remember with sizing - an 8 1/2 inch bracelet may not fit an 8 1/2 inch wrist. Size and
number of focal beads will interfere. When I am making jewelry for myself, it is easy to unpin my
project and simply measure it against my own wrist. However, when making bracelets of varying sizes
for other people, I have a cone marked off for the different sizes.
Finishing Touch - "Flaming the Ends": After gluing and trimming the ends of a project, I like to
wave a flame (from a lighter) over the ends to melt them. If you try this, be careful not to hold the
flame to long as it will blacken the cord.
There is nothing more frustrating than to get over halfway through a project just to find you have cut
your cords too short. There are not many ways to fix that in the middle of a project without being too
obvious. So, when I am playing with a new design, I try to err on the side of cutting the cords too long
instead.
Attaching an Ear Wire to an Earring and a Clasp to a split ring:
Ear wire: Open loop on ear wire with needle nosed pliers. Do not pull apart. Instead, open it to the
side as shown in photo 2. Attach earring by the split ring or knotted loop and close loop on ear wire.
Clasp: Hold split ring in grasp of needle-nosed pliers (or better yet a pair of hemostats). I use my
thumbnail to “split” the ring open and slide the clasp onto ring. Slide clasp around until completely
through the “split” of the ring.
How to Thread 4 Strands of Cord Through One Bead:
Some projects require 4 strands of cord to pass through the hole in a
bead. Here is a hopefully helpful hint on how to do this.
This can be a little tricky as the hole is sometimes a tight fit. The first
2 cords are usually easy. On the 3rd and 4th cords through, it is helpful
if you lay the cord parallel into the previously threaded cords. Then by
slowly pulling on the cords already through the bead, pull the active
cord through with them. Use your thumbnail to guide the tip of the
cord into the hole of the bead. Resist the urge to push it through, as
this usually results in fraying and bunching. If this happens, just snip
the end, repaint with finger nail polish and after it dries, try again.