Sips and Celebrations

Sips and Celebrations
Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample
the World’s Finest Varietals
• RIEDEL’S CLASSIC
• THE FIRST VARIETAL SPECIFIC
STEMWARE LINE
• DISHWASHER SAFE
SOMMELIERS (1973): Professor Claus J. Riedel
was the first designer to recognize that the bouquet, taste, balance and finish of wines
are affected by the shape of the glass from which they are consumed. More than 50
years ago he began his pioneering work to create stemware that would match and
complement different wines and spirits. In the late 1950s, Riedel started to produce glasses
which, at that time, were a design revolution. Thin-blown, unadorned, reducing the design
to its essence: bowl, stem, base.
Working with experienced tasters, Riedel discovered that wine enjoyed from his glasses
showed more depth and better balance than when served in other glasses. Claus J. Riedel
laid the groundwork for stemware which was functional as well as beautiful and made
according to the Bauhaus design principle of “form follows function.” In 1961, a revolutionary
concept was introduced, when the Riedel catalogue featured the first line of wine glasses
created in different sizes and shapes. Before this, conventional stemware had used a single
basic bowl shape, with only the size varying depending on use. The concept was illustrated
to perfection with the introduction of the Sommeliers series in 1973, which achieved worworld
wide recognition. A glass was born that turns a sip into a celebration – a wine’s best friend – fine-tuned to match the grape! We invite you to share this fascinating and unique experience.
You don’t need to be a wine writer, a wine maker or an expert to taste the difference that a
Riedel glass can make. Sommeliers is executed in lead crystal, mouth-blown in Austria.
“tools never go out of fashion.”
claus josef riedel, first in history - creator and pioneer of wine friendly stem ware.
WHY SHOULD I USE A DECANTER? How will decanting enhance my wine experience?
• There are two reasons why we decant wines:
1. Decant an older wine to separate it from its sediment.
2. Decant a younger wine to increase aeration, revealing more complexity and opening up aromas and flavors.
• To enjoy young wines fully (up to 10 years for both red and white), consider opening
them 8-12 hours prior to consumption for aeration, or decant the wine, as this shortens
the aeration process.
• The main preservation element in wine is carbon dioxide which is integrated with
the wine during the first (= alcoholic) fermentation.
• Decanting reduces the amount of carbon dioxide and “matures“ the wine,
allowing the bouquet to develop faster.
“Being born in the year of the snake inspired my great fascination with this mysterious creature. I create my decanters
to have equal parts grace and command, while being
functional tools that enhance the experience of enjoying wine.”
- Maximilian Riedel • On the palate, decanted wine expresses higher levels of fruit in red wines and tends
to integrate and smooth out tannins.
• When decanting young wines, turn the bottle directly into the decanter and let it
splash into the vessel to maximize aeration.
• When decanting off the sediment of an old wine, slowly pour the wine into the
decanter without allowing any sediment to leave the bottle.
• Suggest the customer considers trying the following exercise:
Using identical glasses, decant half the bottle and serve the other half directly from
the bottle – then draw your own conclusion.
Christian Moueix, President of the négociant house ètablissementsJean -Pierre Moueix :
“I prefer to decant wines, both young and old. It is a sign of respect for old wines
and a sign of confidence in young wines. Decanting old wines, just a few moments
before they are served, helps to ensure that the wines’ clarity and brilliance are not
obscured by any deposit that may have developed over time. Decanting young
wines several hours before they are served gives the wine a chance to bloom and
attain a stage of development that normally requires years of aging.”
MAMBA DECANTER
RIEDEL.COM
WHY SHAPE MATTERS
• Stemware consists of 3 parts: the, bowl, stem and base.
• The height of the stem and the width of base are part of the glass design (known as the architecture).
Table of Contents
• Grape varietal specific stemware features finely-tuned glass bowls consisting of 3 variables:
shape, size and rim diameter.
• Grape varietal specific stemware has to translate the “message” of wine to the human senses. There are 4 sensations in wine.
1. Bouquet : Grape varietal specific stemware is responsible for the quality and intensity of the wine’s aroma.
2. Texture : Grape varietal specific stemware highlights the exciting and diverse styles of “mouthfeel” in wine (watery, creamy, silky, velvety).
3. Flavor : Grape varietal specific stemware creates a balanced interaction between the fruit, minerality, acidity and bitter components of a wine.
4. Finish : Grape varietal specific stemware offers a pleasant, seamless, harmonious and long lasting after taste.
ARCHITECTURE OF STEMWARE
Is comprised of three parts: Bowl – Stem – Base.
The design (the architecture or construction) of a stemmed glass must ensure that the size, height
and width are in perfect harmony. The size of the bowl has to be in proportion to the height of the
stem and the width of the base. Respecting the exact ratio between these dimensions ensures the
glass is correctly and seamlessly proportioned. Table-top “classics” are composed using the magic
“golden architectural formula.” Early glass architecture, around 1920, took the lead, spearheaded
by three Viennese architects (Loos, Hoffmann, Ertl). Claus Riedel’s designs from the late 1950s
re-established and took on this concept, which combined with influence from the French and Irish
classics, resulted in stemware featuring this “construction,” which is so pleasing to the eye.
Key to Ratings & Symbols
Australia
Sydney
8
Austria
Vienna 11
China
Beijing Shanghai
14
16
France
Paris
Germany
Berlin
17
18
Japan
Tokyo
20
United States
Boston
25
Charlotte 26
Denver Area
27
Kansas 28
Los Angeles 28
Miami 29
New Orleans
32
New York
33
Portland
37
San Francisco
39
Seattle
41
Washington, DC
42
The reviews in this guide are based on public opinion
surveys. The ratings reflect the average scores given by
the survey participants who voted on each establishment.
The text is based on quotes from, or paraphrasings of,
the surveyors’ comments. Phone numbers, addresses
and other factual data were correct to the best of our
knowledge when published in this guide.
© 2013 Zagat Survey, LLC
Food, Decor & Service are rated
on a 30-point scale:
| – |
| – |
| – |
| – |
| – |
Extraordinary to Perfection
low response | less reliable
N
Very Good to Excellent
Good to Very Good
Fair to Good
Poor to Fair
Reviews are compiled from user
comments, with representative
comments shown in quotation marks.
Cost is estimated by the
following symbols:
|Inexpensive
|Moderate
|Expensive
|Very Expensive
L
=
~
X
serves after 11 PM
closed on Sunday
closed on Monday
no credit cards accepted
Australia, Sydney | Sips and Celebrations
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Australia
Porteño
Australian
26
23
24
VE
Surry Hills | 4/5 355 Crown St. | +61-2 9332-2225
www.marquerestaurant.com.au
Loyalists “love every minute” of this “well-paced” eight-course contemporary
Australian degustation menu experience at chef-owner Mark Best’s smart-looking
Surry Hills destination; “each plate is like a work of art” – the Spanish- and
French-inspired “flavors come together beautifully” with his molecular techniques –
and the wines are “perfectly matched”, plus the “attentive” staff “really knows
their stuff; it’s “expensive”, but it’s an “absolute feast” so ”save up if you have to –
it’s worth it.”
MoVida =~ Spanish
––– E
Surry Hills | 50 Holt St. | +61-2 8964-7642
www.movida.com.au
Barcelona-born, Melbourne-based chef Frank Camorra expands his Spanish
chainlet with this latest addition, set on a quiet, graffiti-filled street in Surry Hills;
the warm wood interior is accented by Iberian-style crockery while the menu of
- and
classics and new offerings includes artistic tapas, larger, more rustic racions
roasted meats; book a table in advance or turn up early to grab one of the toughto-get bar stools.
8 |
252524 E
Surry Hills | 358 Cleveland St. | +61-2 8399-1440
www.porteno.com.au
Sydney
Marque
Argentinean
“Don’t miss” Surry Hills’ “loud and lively” Argentinean with an “amazing ambiance”
where Ben Milgate and Elvis Abrahowicz, the “fantastic” tattooed chef-owners
of Bodega, “work their magic with slow-roasted” whole lamb and suckling pigs
over an open coal pit, to Rockabilly beats; the “memorable” meats often sell out
and bookings are for large parties only, so “arrive early” or pass the “crazy waiting
times” by “warming up with a cocktail” at the red-and-gold Gardel’s Bar upstairs.
Quay
Australian
27
25
26
VE
The Rocks | Overseas Passenger Terminal | 110 Circular Quay W. | +61-2 9251-5600
www.quay.com.au
Chef-owner Peter Gilmore’s “absolutely gorgeous” Circular Quay standout “never
fails to impress” thanks to its “heavenly” European-inspired, contemporary
Australian prix fixe and tasting menus; each dish is seemingly “kissed by angels”
(“leave room” for dessert) while the “superb” presentation, “sublime” harbor vista
and “professional, friendly and unpretentious” service further elevate the experience;
“it may spike a little dent in your wallet, but every forkful is absolutely worth it.”
Rockpool Bar & Grill
Steak
26
26
25
E
CBD | 66 Hunter St. | +61-2 8078-1900
www.rockpool.com.au
Neil Perry’s “brilliance is in every brick, every morsel of food, every moment of
service” agree admirers of this CBD steakhouse set in a “dramatic art deco”
skyscraper dating back to 1936; the menu is “wide ranging”, but the “real
attraction here” is the “incredibly flavorsome” wood-grilled meat – the “phrase
‘melts in your mouth’ “definitely rings true” – along with the “beyond-delicious”
Wagyu burgers; “perfect for a romantic meal” or “power-broker” meetings, this
“favorite” “wows” every time.
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Austria, Vienna | Sips and Celebrations
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Rockpool on George
Modern Australian 272524 VE
The Rocks | 107 George St. | +61-2 9252-1888
www.rockpool.com
A Sydney fixture since 1989, this “legendary” star in The Rocks has recently come
back into its finest form under Neil Perry protégé, chef Phil Wood; boasting European
and Far Eastern influences, the “incredible” contemporary Australian prix fixe menus
take you on a “culinary journey”, especially when matched with the “extensive”
global wine list, while the smartly styled contemporary room is “charming”; it’s an
“expensive” experience but rock-solid fans insist it’s “definitely worth the price tag.”
Spice Temple = Chinese
272424 E
CBD | 10 Bligh St. | +61-2 8078-1888
www.rockpool.com.au
“Cool, dark and sexy”, Neil Perry’s “subterranean temple of Asian dining” in
the CBD serves “unique takes” on regional Chinese dishes with “beautifully
balanced”, “incredibly fresh flavors” ranging from subtle to “intense”; the “use of
different chilis is masterful” with offerings sure to “tempt your taste buds” while
the “portions and service are geared towards a group”; it may be “expensive”,
but devotees insist that it “always impresses.”
Tetsuya’s
French/Japanese 282527 VE
CBD | 529 Kent St. | +61-2 9267-2900
www.tetsuyas.com
Austria
Vienna
Holy-Moly! Austrian/Mediterranean
am Badeschiff
–
–
–
I
Innere Stadt | Donaukanallaende | +43-1 699-151-307-50
www.badeschiff.at
This budget-friendly eatery in a former barge turned tri-level party spot moored in
the Danube Canal draws a crowd for its gourmet Austrian-Mediterranean fare and
fun scene (there’s also a sun deck and adjacent pool); though the wine list may
not impress, you can bring your own bottle for a corkage fee.
Indochine 21 L French/Vietnamese 211919 E
Innere Stadt | Stubenring 18 | +43-1 513-7660
www.indochine.at
Across the street from the Museum für Angewandte Kunst (MAK) in Innere Stadt,
this French-Vietnamese is a “nice change of pace” from typical Viennese cooking,
offering “delectable” dishes with “unusual taste combinations” and “competent”
service, all of which leave diners with just one complaint – that it’s “overpriced”; a
recent design revamp (which may outdate the Decor score) swapped out Asian
elements like bamboo accents and Buddhist icons for a modern, mainstream style.
Tetsuya Wakuda’s creates a “truly memorable dining experience” that “lives up
to the hype” at one of Sydney’s most “famous” restaurants, an art-filled, FrenchJapanese destination set in a refurbished heritage-listed CBD site; “delicacy is
the focus” with every dish on the 10-course degustation menu a “magnificent”
masterpiece of “varied taste sensations” and “pleasing to the eye”; completing the
“expensive” but “fabulous experience”: service that’s “attentive but not intrusive”
and “Zen”-like dining rooms overlooking a tranquil Japanese garden.
10 |
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Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Julius Meinl L= Austrian/Mediterranean
am Graben
–
17
21
E
Innere Stadt | Graben 19 | +43-1 532 33 34 6000
www.meinlamgraben.at
After undergoing a few changes, this Graben favorite above “Vienna’s leading
gourmet store” (which carries nearly “everything the heart desires”) now dishes
chef Metin Yurtseven’s sophisticated Austrian-French cuisine to a “cosmopolitan
clientele”; despite a “courteous staff” and “lovely” room, some still find it hard to
“escape the fact that it’s above a supermarket.”
Silvio Nickol im Palais Coburg = ~ French/International
–
–
–
VE
Innere Stadt | Palais Coburg | Coburgbastei 4 | +43-1 5181-8800
www.palais-coburg.com
Diners willing to open their wallets wide can choose from different tasting menus
at this dinner-only French-International in Innere Stadt’s Palais Coburg where
opting for the vino pairing gets you glasses from their notable wine cellar; the
small dining room is decorated with amethysts and marble eggs, and alfresco
fans can sample the fare on the outdoor terrace.
Zum weissen Rauchfangkehrer = Austrian 22
20
21
E
Innere Stadt | Weihburggasse 4 | +43-1 512-3471
www.weisser-rauchfangkehrer.at
Recently renovated, this “interesting but relaxed” high-end establishment off
Kärntnerstrasse serves “inventive courses” of “delicious Austrian cuisine” in a
“country-style” setting to the strains of live piano music; service is “personable”
and the owner is an “attentive and informed sommelier”, and while some find
the space “uncomfortable” and the tabs a bit “too expensive”, the “warm
atmosphere” and “virtual encyclopedia” of a wine list compensate.
GUILLAUME SELOSSE - 3rd Generation
presenting hIS favorite tool, the VINTAGE CHAMPAGNE glass
12 |
“tools never go
out of fashion.”
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China, Beijing | Sips and Celebrations
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
China
Huang Ting
European 212323 E
Chaoyang | China World Hotel | 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie (Dongsanhuan Zhonglu) |
+86-10 6505-2266, ext. 36
www.shangri-la.com
At this modern European venue in Chaoyang’s China World Hotel, well-heeled
patrons including “business” execs come to dine on “high-quality”, “exciting”
eats within “stylish”, blond-wood-accented quarters and take in the “lively”
bar scene; the “good lunch deal” and “fabulous wine list” help offset “steep”
prices; N.B. the Food score does not reflect new chef Matthew McCool and
his game-centric menu additions.
Danieli’s
Italian 252326 VE
Chaoyang | St. Regis Beijing | 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie (Ritan Lu) |
+86-10 6460-6688, ext. 2440
www.stregis.com
“Superb” service (voted Beijing’s No. 1), a “lavish” selection of “high-quality”
(and “expensive”) Italian cuisine and a “tremendous wine list” make this a
“perfect special-occasion destination” in Chaoyang’s St. Regis Beijing;
the rustic dark-wood decor plus dim lighting “combines casual comfort
with elegant outings.”
14 |
–––VE
Dongcheng | The Peninsula | 8 Jinyu Hutong (bet. Dongdan Beidajie & Wangfujing Dajie)
+86-10 8516-2888, ext. 6707
www.beijing.peninsula.com
Beijing
Aria
Chinese Located in the luxury shopping mall under Dongcheng’s Peninsula Hotel, this
high-end Cantonese “treasure” is well known for “melt-in-your-mouth Peking
duck”, an “amazing tea service” and “great” weekend dim sum popular with
Beijing’s elite; the rustic, “comfortable and cozy decor” is a “replication” of a
traditional courtyard home with antiques and stone walls and floors.
Jing L Eclectic 22
24
25
M
Dongcheng | The Peninsula | 8 Jinyu Hutong (Wangfujing Dajie)
+86-10 8516-2888, ext. 6714
www.beijing.peninsula.com
“Even if you’re not staying at the Peninsula” (or on an “expense account”), it’s
“well worth a visit” to this Dongcheng “crowd-pleaser” where all-day buffets
display an Eclectic array of “intelligently executed” “East-West fusion” fare coupled
with “a great selection of wines” and overseen by an “attentive but not-hovering”
staff; sprinkled throughout the “sleek, sexy” space are modern lanterns, stone
walls, ponds and three “entertaining open kitchens.”
Maison Boulud
French –––VE
Dongcheng | Ch’ien Men 23 | 23 Qianmen Dongdajie (adjacent to Tiananmen Sq.)
+86-10 6559-9200
www.maisonboulud.com
Superstar chef Daniel Boulud is shaking up Beijing with this French endeavor;
positioned as the premier dining destination in Dongcheng’s Ch’ien Men 23 (the
old diplomatic district–turned–entertainment complex), it’s set in a two-story
mansion that housed the American embassy in pre-Communist times and is done
up to evoke a stately manor home with a grand dining room and winter garden,
salons for private dinners and a bar and lounge area.
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Shanghai
Vue
NAPA Wine Bar & Kitchen
Eclectic ––– E
Huangpu | 57 Jiangyin Lu (Huangpi Bei Lu) | +86-21 6318-0057
www.napawinebarandkitchen.com
Just steps away from People’s Square in Huangpu, this painstakingly renovated
turn-of-the-last-century mansion serves a dual purpose: the first floor is reserved
for wine events and tastings, while the second story is a stand-alone restaurant
that echoes the building’s wine focus; look for an Eclectic menu from a chef
whose résumé includes a stint at a Gordon Ramsay London eatery.
100 Century Avenue
Eclectic
–––VE
Pudong | Park Hyatt Shanghai | 100 Century Ave., 91st fl. (Dongtai Lu) | +86-21 6888-1234
www.parkhyattshanghai.com
This Eclectic parked on the 91st floor of the Park Hyatt Shanghai offers dropdead city views thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows; the pricey menu’s a mélange
of à la carte items available at several open kitchen stations, ranging from
Western grill fare to Pan-Chinese dishes to sushi and sashimi, and post-dinner
drinks can be sipped on the 92nd floor in either a pine-clad live jazz parlor or a
1930s deco-themed lounge.
Palladio
Italian 252325 VE
Jing An | Portman Ritz-Carlton | 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu (Xikang Lu) | +86-21 6279-7188
www.ritzcarlton.com
“Exactly what you would expect from a restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton”, this Jing
An “special-occasion” Italian offers “flawless food” (from a wood-burning-ovenequipped kitchen), “great service” and, “of course, high prices”; swanky decor
incorporating Palladian arches and columns and an “exceptional wine list” make
it a natural for everything from power lunches to romantic suppers.
16 |
China, Shanghai | Sips and Celebrations
European
––– E
Hongkou | Hyatt on the Bund | 199 Huangpu Lu, 30th-31st fls. (Wuchang Lu) |
+86-21 6393-1234 |
www.shanghai.bund.hyatt.com
Overlooking the Huangpu River, the Bund and the Lujiazui skyline, this venue in
the Hyatt on the Bund Hotel more than lives up to its name with one of the most
breathtaking dining vistas in all of Asia; the modern European menu works well
with the luxe, multichambered space, and the top-floor Vue Bar is one of the
city’s hottest hangs.
Xindalu
Chinese
––– E
Hongkou | Hyatt on the Bund | 199 Huangpu Lu (Daming Lu) | +86-21 6393-1234, ext. 6318
www.shanghai.bund.hyatt.com
Traditional northern Chinese cuisine meets 21st-century open-kitchen design at
this Hyatt on the Bund Hotel venue where the signature Peking duck is roasted in
a seven-ton, hand-built brick oven imported from the capital to ensure authenticity
(indeed, the birds are specially farmed using timeless Beijinger techniques and
carefully roasted to generations-old specifications).
France
Paris
L’Agapé =
New French 241922 E
17e | 51, rue Jouffroy d’Abbans (Wagram) | +33-1 42-27-20-18
www.agape-paris.fr
Laurent Lapaire of Agapé Substance is the boldface name behind this table in the
17th, known for the “inventive” New French cuisine coming out of its “high-level
kitchen”, now overseen by chef Yohann Lemonnier; “young French couples” love
the “warm” service and the “tasteful” room’s subdued earth tones, even if it’s “un
peu cher” (business diners appreciate the “bargain” prix fixe lunch).
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La Tour d’Argent = ~ Haute Cuisine 252726 VE
5e | 15-17, quai de la Tournelle (Cardinal Lemoine/Pont-Marie) | +33-1 43-54-23-31
www.latourdargent.com
“What history, what a location, what a view, what they do with a duck” sigh
fans of this “stately and elegant” Haute Cuisine “landmark” perched six stories
above the banks of the Seine overlooking Notre Dame; young chef Laurent
Delarbre composes “fantastic” dishes that are brilliantly illuminated by selections
from a truly “biblical” wine list and it’s all enhanced by “exquisitely” “old-school”
service, so while the whole package is “spendy” indeed, it’s “worth it” for an
“unforgettable” experience; P.S. reservations and jacket required.
Germany
Berlin
Die Quadriga = ~ Eclectic/Scandinavian 232523 E
Charlottenburg | Brandenburger Hof | Eislebener Str. 14 | +49-30 2140-5650
www.brandenburger-hof.com
“A memorable meal” awaits at this “nice hotel dining” venue whose two rooms
flank a “beautiful” Japanese garden in Charlottenburg’s Brandenburger Hof; the
“varied menu” features “exquisite” New Nordic fare with International touches,
accompanied by an extensive all-German wine list and “incredible service”; sure,
it’s “somewhat expensive”, but it’s definitely a “first-class” experience; P.S. there’s
occasional live jazz on Thursdays.
Carissa Mondavi - 4TH generation winemaker
presenting her favorite tool, the cabernet sauvignon glass
18 |
“tools never go out of fashion.”
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Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Japan
Cuisine[s] Michel Troisgros
Italian 202118 VE
Marunouchi | Maru Bldg., 36th fl. | 2-4-1 Marunouchi | Chiyoda-ku | +81-3 5220-4686
www.miyoshi-grp.com
The “location and view are priceless” at this outpost of a Milan-based Italian
perched on the 36th floor of Marunouchi’s Maru Building, known as a great venue
for “entertaining VIPs”; surveyors have “no problems” with the “impressive” fare,
but some find it a “let-down”, given the “high prices”, and opinions are divided
over the service (“comforting” vs. “stiff” and “cloying”).
Apicius
French 262726 VE
Yuraku-cho | Sanshi Kaikan, fl. B1 | 1-9-4 Yurakucho | Chiyoda-ku | +81-3 3214-1361
www.apicius.co.jp
“Even though it’s in a basement”, you feel like you’re in a “private art gallery” in the
“magnificent”, “transporting” space of this Yurakucho French, which some dub
the “country’s exemplary grand maison”; the “warm, but not too cloying” service
is “exceptional and spot-on”, while the “mix of classic and modern” dishes is
“expectedly delectable” (try the “superb sea turtle consommé”).
Chateau Restaurant Joel Robuchon
French 262626 VE
Mita | Ebisu Garden Pl. | 1-13-1 Mita | Meguro-ku | +81-3 5424-1347
www.robuchon.jp
While a few are “intimidated” by the “magnificent interior under a sparkling
chandelier” at this “exemplary haute French” in Ebisu – a “taste of high society in
Japan” – others insist the “top-notch” service from a “considerate” staff will “calm
any jitters” you might have; fans “adore” the “artistic” cuisine “with all their hearts”,
and many swear that it “doesn’t get any better than this.”
20 |
French 252223 VE
Nishi-Shinjuku | Hyatt Regency Tokyo, 1st fl. | 2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjuku | Shinjuku-ku
+81-3 5321-3915
www.troisgros.jp
Tokyo
Antica Osteria del Ponte
Japan, Tokyo | Sips and Celebrations
Fans have “high hopes” for new chef Minoro Otaki, who took over the helm
at this French in Nishi-Shinjuku’s Hyatt Regency in 2012, and early reports
suggest he’s putting a “trendy” spin on “classic” Gallic fare while maintaining
his predecessor’s “skillful use of Japanese ingredients”; the service is “reliable”,
especially the sommelier’s “spot-on recommendations”, while the space gives
you “lots of privacy.”
Edition Koji Shimomura
French 252021 VE
Roppongi | Roppongi T-Cube, 1st fl. | 3-1-1 Roppongi | Minato-ku | +81-3 5549-4562
www.koji-shimomura.jp
Though it boasts quite a lineup of “unique” specialties, this Roppongi French will
also “accommodate special requests”, and regulars “truly appreciate its value on
every visit”; the wine list is “solid” and the service “steady”, and the chef’s “table
visits are enjoyable” in the “stylish, well-lit and relaxing” space.
Gordon Ramsay =~ French at Conrad Tokyo
192221 VE
Higashi-Shinbashi | Conrad Tokyo | 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi | Minato-ku |
+81-3 6388-8000 |
www.gordonramsay.jp
Located on the 28th floor of the Conrad Tokyo near Shiodome Station, Gordon
Ramsay’s “modern French” boasts views of “the city lights at night”, a “stylish”,
“high-ceilinged” space and “competent” service; some insist the “original”, “light
yet robust” fare is “even better than the London flagship’s”, while others wish it
would “bring back the à la carte menu.”
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Japan, Tokyo | Sips and Celebrations
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
LAtelier de Joel Robuchon
French 222321 VE
Roppongi | Roppongi Hills Hillside, 2nd fl. | 6-10-1 Roppongi | Minato-ku |
+81-3 5772-7500
www.robuchon.jp
For “Robuchon at a reasonable price”, Francophiles head to this Roppongi
French to sit at the long “rouge” counter and watch the “drama in the kitchen”
unfold, as “complex”, “refined” and “creative” small plates are prepared, then
served with a “fine” wine list; the service comes across as perhaps “overly
friendly, but quite agreeable.”
La Tour D’argent ~ French Orexis ~ French 212324 VE
Shirokane | 2-3-3 Shirokane | Minato-ku | +81-3 5918-8311
www.orexis.co.jp
“Happiness is the reasonably priced” 800-label wine list at this Shirokane French,
run by a “jolly and funny owner-sommelier” who provides “superb” service in a
“stylish”, “grown-up” space that’s also “cozy”; opinions are split on the fare after a
recent chef change, which resulted in a “more classic” approach – some say it’s
“gone downhill”, others say it’s “better than before.”
Restaurant Quintessence = French 262728 VE
Kioi-cho | Hotel New Otani, Main Bldg., lobby | 4-1 Kioicho | Chiyoda-ku | +81-3 3239-3111
www.newotani.co.jp
262123 VE
Shirokanedai | Barbizon 25, 1st fl. | 5-4-7 Shirokanedai | Minato-ku | +81-3 5791-3715
www.quintessence.jp
At this haute French in Kioi-cho’s Hotel New Otani, the “excellent” service
will “make you feel like royalty” in a room “perfectly illuminated by a gorgeous
chandelier”; the “elegant” dishes, including the “always inspiring” “signature duck”,
are “awesome”, and fans recommend it for “celebrating life’s major milestones.”
Fans are “glad to be living at the same time as the chef” at this Shirokanedai
French, grateful for his “magnificent technique” in producing “flawless” courses of
small plates, which are “described at length” by servers; critics report that it can
be “hard to get someone on the line to make a reservation”, while others complain
that “loud voices reverberate” through the “not-so-big” space with private rooms.
Narisawa = French Sens & Saveurs
232220 VE
French 212121 VE
Minami-Aoyama | 2-6-15 Minami-Aoyama | Minato-ku | +81-3 5785-0799
www.narisawa-yoshihiro.com
Marunouchi | Maru Bldg., 35th fl. | 2-4-1 Marunouchi | Chiyoda-ku | +81-3 5220-2701
www.pourcel.jp
“Surprise your date with a full-blown production” at this Minami-Aoyama French
where “delicious” dishes in “novel presentations” are executed “without any
flaws”; “everything sparkles” in the “innovative” space, from the kitchen to the
amenity-rich restrooms “worthy of a five-star hotel”, while “warm”, “discreet”
service contributes to the “high-end feel.”
“Fresh, inventive takes on Jacques and Laurent Pourcel’s recipes” from their
restaurant in Montpelier, France, plus a “solid wine list” overseen by a “diligent
sommelier”, are on offer at this French outpost on the 35th floor of the Maru
Building in Marunouchi; the space features “marvelous views” and a “posh,
stunning” bar area, and fans say the service is “reliably steady.”
22 |
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Japan, Tokyo | Sips and Celebrations
Two Rooms Grill | Bar =~ Eclectic 152418 E
Kita-Aoyama | Ao Bldg., 5th fl. | 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama | Minato-ku | +81-3 3498-0002
www.tworooms.jp
A “terrace with a view” and a “chic”, “wonderful” interior with an open kitchen
set the stage at this Eclectic grill specialist near Omotesando Station, where the
“graceful expat” staff and “good wine selection” also win praise; a few find the fare
“overpriced” and say that “you’re paying for the setting”, and given the late hours
of the lounge (2 AM), some think it works better as an “after-dinner stop.”
United States
Boston
Blue Room
Eclectic 242122 E
Kendall Square | 1 Kendall Sq. (Hampshire St.) | Cambridge | 617-494-9034
www.theblueroom.net
“Still going strong after all these years”, this “sophisticated” yet “casual” Kendall
Square “mainstay” “deftly prepares” “bold, creative” Eclectic fare that emphasizes
“locally sourced” “artisanal ingredients”; the “cozy”, “rustic” setting, “swift service”
and “reasonable prices” cancel out the fact that its often “crowded and noisy”,
especially during the “all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch” buffet.
Troquet =~ American/French 262125 VE
Theater District | 140 Boylston St. (bet. Charles & Tremont Sts.) | 617-695-9463
www.troquetboston.com
A “wide variety” of “magnificent”, “reasonably priced” wines by the glass and halfglass makes this Theater District bistro an oenophile’s “Oz”, while “exciting” pairings
with the “progressive” New American–French cuisine boasting “tantalizing flavors
galore” help justify the fare’s “high cost”; “formal but not stuffy service” complements
the “understated” setting, the highlight of which is a “beautiful view” of the Common.
Philippe Guigal - 3rd Generation
presenting hIS favorite tool, the Syrah glass
“tools never go out of fashion.”
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Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
T.W. Food
American/French 28
22
27
United States, Charlotte | Sips and Celebrations
E
Urban Sip L= ~ Eclectic
N 23
23
27
M
Huron Village | 377 Walden St. (Concord Ave.) | Cambridge | 617-864-4745
www.twfoodrestaurant.com
Uptown | Ritz-Carlton | 201 E. Trade St., 15th fl. (College St.) | 704-547-2244
At this “extraordinary” Huron Village “hideaway”, toque Tim Wiechmann’s “sublime”,
seasonal New American–New French fare is “thoughtfully prepared” with local ingredients
and “layers of complexity”, then paired with wines from a “creative” list; the “casual”,
“minimalist” setting is “tight but charming” and conducive to “personal attention”
from the “impeccable” staff, another element that makes it “worth the extra cost.”
“For drinks with a view”, try this “swanky hangout” on the 15th floor of the Uptown
Ritz-Carlton, boasting “fine” wines, scotches and cocktails backed by Eclectic
nibbles like charcuterie and cheese plates; it’s “not inexpensive”, but service is
“wonderful” and the atmosphere “quiet”, so it works for a “low-key” evening.
Charlotte
Denver Area and Mountain Resorts
Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House Steak 26
23
www.ritzcarlton.com
24
E
SouthPark | 4725 Piedmont Row Dr. S. (Fairview Rd.) | 704-552-5502
www.delfriscos.com
“High-quality” cuts of steak are the hallmark of this esteemed Texas-based
“institution”, a “first-tier” chophouse chain that also proffers an “excellent” wine list
and “large, fabulous” martinis; the “knowledgeable” service and richly decorated
surroundings are “commensurate with the price tag”, so most feel a visit to this
“testosterone temple” is worth the “splurge.”
Ruth’s Chris Steak House
Steak 25
23
24
E
Cary | The Arboretum at Weston | 2010 Renaissance Park Pl. (N. Harrison Ave.)
919-677-0033
SouthPark | 6000 Fairview Rd. (J.A. Jones Dr.) | 704-556-1115
Uptown | 222 S. Tryon St. (bet. 3rd & 4th Sts.) | 704-338-9444
Greensboro | 800 Green Valley Rd. (Lendew St.) | 336-574-1515
www.ruthschris.com
Among “the best of the upmarket steakhouse chains”, this “expense-account”
favorite pampers patrons with “outstanding” service, clubby, “different-in-every-place”
decor and, yes, “top-notch” beef – though surveyors are split regarding the chops’
signature slather of “sizzling butter” (“yum!” vs. “going to need a cardiologist”); it all adds
up to a “quality” experience, especially “when in a town with limited dining choices.”
26 |
element 47 (fka Montagna)
–
–
–
E
Aspen | The Little Nell | 675 E. Durant Ave. (Spring St.) | 970-920-6330
www.thelittlenell.com
Inventive, seasonal American cuisine and a wine list presided over by a master
sommelier are the hallmarks of this new spot in the former Montagna space at Aspen’s
Little Nell hotel; named for silver on the periodic table, it features a slick, modern
design in earthy tones with a glass wall displaying its extensive rare vino collection.
Frasca Food & Wine = Italian 28
25
28
VE
Boulder | 1738 Pearl St. (18th St.) | 303-442-6966
www.frascafoodandwine.com
“Sublime in every way”, this Boulder “must” “lives up to the hype” thanks to
Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson’s “exceptional” Northern Italian prix fixe menu,
which is “perfectly paired” with “informed, articulate sommelier” Bobby Stuckey’s
“spectacular” wines; a staff that has “hospitality down to a science” and
“minimalist modern” decor only add to its appeal, and though “long lead times for
reservations” and “exorbitant prices” are part of the deal, most deem it “well worth
the wait” and expense for such a “transformative experience.”
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Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
United States, Kansas City | Sips and Celebrations
Kansas City
Piccolo
The American Restaurant
Venice | 5 Dudley Ave. (Spdwy.) | 310-314-3222
www.piccolovenice.com
= American 26
24
25
VE
Crown Center | 2511 Grand Blvd. (E. Pershing Rd.) | 816-545-8001
www.theamericankc.com
This is “what New American food is about” shout disciples of chef Debbie Gold,
who presides over this “jewel” in Kansas City’s Crown Center that’s “stood the
test of time” with its “fantastic” seasonal menu and “excellent” service (even if the
“quirky” decor may be “overdue for a face-lift”); sure, the “elegant, urban dining
experience” is “heavy on the wallet”, but, hey, the “million-dollar” skyline view
alone is worth a “splurge.”
Hereford House
Steak 25
24
24
M
Northland | Zona Rosa | 8661 N. Stoddard Ave. (bet. 87 Terr. & Prairie View Rd.) | 816-584-9000
www.herefordhouse.com
Guests of this suburban spot make it their “go-to” for “cattleman-country” steaks
that are “tender, juicy and seasoned just right”; it’s “dark” and “intimate” with
“courteous” service, and while some critics counter it’s “hanging onto an old
legacy”, most are “pleased” with the results, recommending the “fantabulous”
happy-hour and Sunday “deals.”
25
26
VE
Surveyors say it “doesn’t get much better” than this “quaint” Venice hideaway just
“steps from the beach” serving “delectable”, “refined” Venetian fare that “rivals the
best in Italy”; prices are a “splurge”, but with an exceedingly “knowledgeable” staff
and “romantic” setting, “what’s not to love?”
Spago
Californian 27
25
26
VE
Beverly Hills | 176 N. Cañon Dr. (Wilshire Blvd.) | 310-385-0880
www.wolfgangpuck.com
“What’s left to say” about this “quintessential LA” hub in Beverly Hills – “the jewel in
the crown” of the Wolfgang Puck empire – that’s “going strong after all these years”
turning out “knock-your-socks-off” Californian cuisine in a “glamorous”, “glittering”
setting sprinkled with “aging celebs”, “power producers and socialites”; “everyone
gets treated royally” and “with a little luck, you can get a handshake from the man
himself” – in sum, there’s “no finer place” to “impress”, as long as you can handle
the “sky-high” tabs; P.S. the spot recently has reopened after a lengthy renovation
with a cleaner, more modern look and an updated menu with a farm-to-table bent.
BLT Steak
27
25
26
VE
Beverly Hills | Beverly Wilshire | 9500 Wilshire Blvd. (Rodeo Dr.) | 310-276-8500
www.wolfgangpuck.com
“The apex of meatdom”, Wolfgang Puck’s “innovative, extravagant” take on the
classic steakhouse in Beverly Hills “hits it out of the park” with “sublime cuts”
and “divine” sides offered in a “sleek, modern”, “star-studded” setting; it follows
through with “exceptional” service, but you may “need to take out a loan” to foot
the bill; P.S. a limited menu is available in the no-reservations Sidebar.
28 |
28
Miami
Los Angeles
Cut = Steak Italian Steak 25
23
23
VE
South Beach | The Betsy Hotel | 1440 Ocean Dr. (bet. 14th & 15th Sts.) | Miami Beach
305-673-0044
www.bltsteak.com
“A bit more hip” than old-school meat palaces, this Betsy Hotel outpost of a “quality
brand” steakhouse chain excels with its “perfectly charred” chops, “inventive” sides
and “terrific” wine list – that’s icing on the cake for fans who admit “they had me at
the popovers”; tabs are “steep” and some “don’t love the lobbyish atmosphere”,
but most deem it a “refined” escape from the SoBe “riffraff.”
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Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
The Dutch
L American ––– E
South Beach | W South Beach | 2201 Collins Ave. (bet. 22nd & 23rd Sts.) | Miami Beach
305-938-3111
www.thedutchmiami.com
Andrew Carmellini reprises his Big Apple hot spot in the sexy W South Beach
with this airy white-and-oak-accented outpost offering a contemporary American
menu that includes a substantial oyster selection; remember: if prices seem a bit
steep, you can always go dutch.
J&G Grill
American –––VE
Bal Harbour | St. Regis Bal Harbour Resort | 9703 Collins Ave. (96th St.) | 305-993-3333
www.jggrillmiami.com
Jean-Georges Vongerichten lends a subtle Asian touch to this über-elegant
and über-pricey beachfront New American arrival at the stunning St. Regis Bal
Harbour, where well-heeled patrons can choose a protein, pair it with a sauce and
have it grilled to order; the glass-enclosed dining room mixes city sophistication
(cool gray hanging lanterns and linen-wrapped booths) with tropical beauty (palm
trees outside every window), while a fairly deep wine list adds extra appeal.
Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink
American 27
20
23
E
Design District | Atlas Plaza | 130 NE 40th St. (bet. 1st & 2nd Aves.) | 305-573-5550
www.michaelsgenuine.com
The name of this “trendy” Design District “hot spot” is “a statement of intent that
they deliver on” via chef-owner Michael Schwartz’s “ambitious” yet “down-to-earth”
small, medium and large plates of locally sourced New American “comfort” food,
backed by “inspired” treats from “genius” pastry chef Hedy Goldsmith and a “wellconsidered” wine list; staffers can seem “a touch snooty” at times but their “efficiency”
compensates, plus there’s a “lovely” outdoor courtyard and “decent” prices.
GAIA GAJA - 5TH generation winemaker
presenting her favorite tool, the NEBBIOLO glass
30 |
“tools never go out of fashion.”
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United States, New Orleans | Sips and Celebrations
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Mr. Chow L Chinese 22
26
20
VE
South Beach | W South Beach | 2201 Collins Ave. (bet. 22nd & 23rd Sts.) | Miami Beach
305-695-1695
www.mrchow.com
“Glitterati” are rendered “speechless” by the “gorgeous” decor (highlighted by a
123-ft. gold-leaf-and-Swarovski-crystal chandelier) at this “chic” resto-lounge in
SoBe’s W Hotel; Michael Chow’s “designer”, “expense account”–worthy Chinese
chow also wins kudos, and service gets an ‘A’, though surveyors are split over
whether that stands for “attentive” or “arrogant.”
Red, The Steakhouse
Steak 27
25
24
VE
South Beach | 119 Washington Ave. (1st St.) | Miami Beach | 305-534-3688
www.redthesteakhouse.com
As the name implies, this “classy” South Beach (and Boca) steakhouse is
a true “red meat/red wine lover’s paradise” with its “juicy”, “velvety” Angus
beef and “extensive wine collection” displayed behind a glass wall – though
the “extravagant” price tags require a lot of green; an “attentive” staff, a “cool
ambiance” and a “stylish” “contemporary” look complete the “first-rate” experience.
New Orleans
August
French 28
28
27
VE
Commander’s Palace
Creole 27
28
28
E
Garden District | 1403 Washington Ave. (Coliseum St.) | 504-899-8221
www.commanderspalace.com
“Step into a grand movie” at this “better-than-ever”, unapologetically “overthe-top” Garden District Creole and revel in a “shocking, playful and sinful”
“gastronomic experience” worthy of “an Oscar” (or at least New Orleans’ Most
Popular and No. 1 Decor and Service ratings); with a “wine list worth the trip itself”
and “impeccable” servers who “actually appear to want to serve”, it’s no wonder
that “locals and tourists alike” happily invest in a spendy dinner or “delightful” jazz
brunch – after all, this is the “place to bring grandma to assure you’re in the will”;
P.S. no shorts or T-shirts; jackets suggested for dinner.
New York City
A Voce
Italian 24
24
23
VE
Flatiron | 41 Madison Ave. (26th St.) | 212-545-8555 =
W 60s | Time Warner Ctr. | 10 Columbus Circle, 3rd fl. (60th St. at B’way) | 212-823-2523
www.avocerestaurant.com
These “sophisticated” yet “accessible” Italians “shine” thanks to chef Missy
Robbins’ “delectable” cuisine backed up by “cosseting” service; both the Flatiron
original and Columbus Circle spin-off are “corporate” but “comfortable”, but
there’s “more buzz” – and a “park view” – at the larger TWC satellite.
Central Business Dist. | 301 Tchoupitoulas St. (Gravier St.) | 504-299-9777
www.restaurantaugust.com
John Besh’s “unforgettable” CBD flagship “glows with his personality” as the “star”
chef’s “keen sense of flavors” and devotion to “local ingredients” yields “superb”
New French fare “presented like works of art”; a “subtly attentive” staff sees to “wellheeled locals” and “Hollywood celebs” in the “stately but not stuffy” space whose
“glittering chandeliers and rich wood accents” “demurely whisper class”, and even
though dinner prices may require “holding up a bank”, the weekday lunch is a “steal.”
32 |
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Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Bouley = French 28
27
27
VE
TriBeCa | 163 Duane St. (bet. Greenwich & Hudson Sts.) | 212-964-2525
www.davidbouley.com
Starting with the “lovely scent of apples in the foyer”, David Bouley’s TriBeCa
“trailblazer” is the epitome of “refined”, “grown-up” dining, from the “superlative”
New French fare to the “extraordinary” service and “sumptuous”, jackets-required
setting; granted, it can be “expensive”, but in return you get a “priceless”, near“perfection” experience; P.S. the midday $55 prix fixe is “one of the best fancy
lunch deals” in town.
Daniel = French 28
28
28
VE
“Haute” puts it mildly at chef Daniel Boulud’s 20-year-old East Side “classic”,
where the “exceptional” New French fare arrives in an “elegance personified”,
jackets-required setting; “carefully choreographed” service distracts from the “lofty”,
prix fixe–only tabs, making this “sweep-you-off-your-feet” experience an exercise
in “pure pleasure”; P.S. there’s “less formal”, à la carte dining in the lounge.
28
28
28
VE
27
28
27
A “calm oasis” in “throbbing Manhattan”, this Midtown “icon” draws “onepercenters” and “seriously famous” folk with “outstanding” New Americana
ferried by a “meticulous” team overseen by owners Alex von Bidder and Julian
Niccolini; the “chic-in-a-’50s-way” setting includes the “luminous” Pool Room
(best for romance) and the more power lunch–appropriate Grill Room, but
no matter where you sit, wear a jacket and bring your checkbook: this “timehonored tradition” is “predictably expensive.”
25
26
25
VE
E 50s | One Beacon Court | 151 E. 58th St. (bet. Lexington & 3rd Aves.) | 212-644-0202
www.lecirque.com
To “rub elbows with the upper echelon” there’s always Sirio Maccioni’s Midtown
“landmark”, where the “lavish” experience includes “delicious” “haute” French
cuisine, “excellent service” and a “playful” yet “elegant” “circus”-themed setting;
you’ll “need deep pockets” and dapper duds (“jackets required”), but the nonreserving, “more casual” adjunct cafe is lots of fun for a lot less.
Flatiron | 11 Madison Ave. (24th St.) | 212-889-0905
www.elevenmadisonpark.com
The Modern = American/French For years now, chef-owner Daniel Humm has been producing “flawless” New
French cooking at this Madison Square Park “temple of fine dining”, where
“stunning”, “deceptively simple” dishes are served with “Swiss precision” in a
“gorgeous”, high-ceilinged setting; a recent menu change will add elements of
showmanship like card tricks and glass domes filled with smoke.
W 50s | Museum of Modern Art | 9 W. 53rd St. (bet. 5th & 6th Aves.) | Manhattan
212-333-1220
www.themodernnyc.com
34 |
VE
E 50s | Four Seasons Hotel New York | 99 E. 52nd St. (bet. Lexington & Park Aves.)
212-754-9494
www.fourseasonsrestaurant.com
Le Cirque = French E 60s | 60 E. 65th St. (bet. Madison & Park Aves.) | 212-288-0033
www.danielnyc.com
Eleven Madison Park = French Four Seasons Restaurant = American 26
26
25
VE
Danny Meyer’s MoMA “marvel” presents the “ultimate” in museum dining, with
chef Gabriel Kreuther’s “work-of-art” French–New American cuisine arriving at
table via a “terrific” “pro” staff in “beautiful” Bauhaus-influenced confines; it’s
divided between a “lively”, “casual” front barroom offering “less-expensive” à la
carte small plates and a “formal” prix fixe–only back room where the “impressive
sculpture garden view” is factored into the bill.
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United States, New York City | Sips and Celebrations
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Morton’s The Steakhouse
Steak 25
22
24
VE
Wallsé
Austrian 26
22
25
VE
E 40s | 551 Fifth Ave. (45th St.) | 212-972-3315
www.mortons.com
W Village | 344 W. 11th St. (Washington St.) | 212-352-2300
www.kg-ny.com
“You can’t go wrong” at this “wood-paneled”, perpetually “packed” Midtown
“carnivorium” that “can be counted on” for “fantastic”, “huge” slabs tendered by
“efficient” “pro” waiters; yes, it’s “pricey” – “so are all the big-time steakhouses” –
but “power hour at the bar is a steal.”
“Top-notch” Modern Austrian fare keeps “fans of schnitzel” coming to Kurt
Gutenbrunner’s “welcoming” “Vienna-in-NYC” Villager that’s hung with “artwork
by Julian Schnabel”; “absolutely tops” service ensures the “sophisticated”
experience is “worth” the steep tab.
Mr. Chow L Chinese 22
22
22
VE
E 50s | 324 E. 57th St. (bet. 1st & 2nd Aves.) | 212-751-9030
Mr. Chow Tribeca L Chinese
Higgins Restaurant & Bar L Pacific NW TriBeCa | 121 Hudson St. (N. Moore St.) | 212-965-9500
www.mrchow.com
“Upscale” Chinese served on “fine china” by “white-jacketed” waiters is the
signature of this “glamorous” East Side–TriBeCa duo that’s “still a scene” “after
all these years”; most find the food “outstanding”, but some take issue with the
“expensive” tab and “salesman”-like tactics.
Per Se
American/French 29
28
29
VE
W 60s | Time Warner Ctr. | 10 Columbus Circle, 4th fl. (60th St. at B’way) | 212-823-9335
www.perseny.com
“Elegance at its apex”, this “Thomas Keller sensation” in the Time Warner
Center is a jackets-required “epic dining event” where an “intricate” French–
New American “symphony” is set against “spectacular” Central Park views and
delivered by a “second-to-none” staff (once again voted No. 1 in NYC); the prix
fixe runs a “heart-stopping” $295, but “world-class food is worth the cost” – and
there are always foodies lining up to sample it.
36 |
Portland
27
24
27
E
Downtown | 1239 SW Broadway (Jefferson St.) | 503-222-9070
www.higginsportland.com
“Uniformly superb” NW dishes comprising the “freshest local ingredients” have kept
“godfather of sustainability” Greg Higgins and his Downtown bistro near the “top of
the Portland food chain” for nearly two decades; “outstanding” Oregon wines “add
another dimension to meals”, while the “classy” yet “relaxed” vibe in the “alwaysbusy” dining room (“make reservations!”) is echoed by a staff of “total pros”; P.S.
the “lively” bar boasts an “astonishing beer list” – and “less expensive” tabs.
Nostrana
Italian 28
24
23
M
Buckman | 1401 SE Morrison St. (14th Ave.) | 503-234-2427
www.nostrana.com
“Wonderful” thin-crust pizza “baked to blistered perfection” in a wood-fired oven
attracts acolytes to Cathy Whims’ “unpretentious” (some say “pricey”) Buckman
Italian that also wins converts for “authentic” dishes constructed from “highquality ingredients handled simply”; though the oft-“crowded” digs can get “noisy
at times”, the “welcoming, knowledgeable” staff lends the “soaring”, “lodge”-like
space a “convivial” vibe.
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United States, San Francisco Bay Area | Sips and Celebrations
San Francisco Bay Area
Alexander’s Steakhouse
Japanese/Steak 26
25
26
VE
SoMa | 448 Brannan St. (bet. 3rd & 4th Sts.) | San Francisco | 415-495-1111
www.alexanderssteakhouse.com
“Huge” portions of “awesome aged meats” are “grilled to perfection” at this “posh”
“temple” to beef that “raises the bar” for carnivores in Cupertino and SoMa; it fuses
“Japanese cuisine” with a “classic steakhouse” and service is “exemplary”, though
diners who haven’t “launched a successful IPO” can suffer “sticker shock” from
the “über-pricey” tab.
French Laundry
American/French 29
27
28
VE
Yountville | 6640 Washington St. (Creek St.) | 707-944-2380
www.frenchlaundry.com
“Words can’t even describe” the “experience of a lifetime” say food lovers who’ve
had the “thrill” of landing a reservation and making “the trek” to Thomas Keller’s
“culinary Everest” in Yountville where the “heavenly” New American–French tasting
menus “feature ingredients treated with the utmost respect and care” and the
“impeccable” service is “like a coordinated dance”; it’s all “too precious” for some and
wines cost “a fortune”, but acolytes insist “you’ll go to your grave (in a pauper’s field)
remembering this meal” and the “exquisite” “gardens outside the stone building.”
Marinus ~ Californian/French 28
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27
VE
Carmel Valley | Bernardus Lodge | 415 W. Carmel Valley Rd. (Laureles Grade Rd.) |
831-658-3595
www.bernardus.com
Way beyond the typical “hotel restaurant”, this Carmel Valley “gem” at Bernardus
Lodge boasts a “beautiful” setting and “inviting” revamped decor as a backdrop
for Cal Stamenov’s “impeccable” Cal–New French menus that “push the envelope”
while pleasing vegetarians, locavores and omnivores alike; service is “top-of-theline” and the wine list is “staggering” (with “prices to match”), so overall it’s “well
worth the trip for a special occasion” and even better to “stay the night so you
can savor every glass.”
VINCENT Bründlmayer - a wINEMAKING family SINCE THE 13TH CENTURY
presenting hIS favorite tool, the rIESLING glass
“tools never go out of fashion.”
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RIEDEL.com
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Meadowood, The Grill Californian (aka The Grill at Meadowood)
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United States, San Francisco Bay Area | Sips and Celebrations
E
St. Helena | Meadowood Napa Valley | 900 Meadowood Ln. (Silverado Trail) | 707-968-3144
www.meadowood.com
Surveyors looking for a “relaxing” “getaway” are drawn to the “low-key elegance” and
“fantastic” fairway “views” that surround this “casual” “country club”–esque Californian
grill at St. Helena’s Meadowood resort, where a “friendly” staff serves breakfast
through dinner; “while it pales in comparison” to the experience at its high-end upstairs
sibling, if you can “grab a table on the veranda”, it makes for a “memorable meal.”
Meadowood, The Restaurant = Californian 27
(aka The Restaurant at Meadowood)
26
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St. Helena | Meadowood Napa Valley | 900 Meadowood Ln. (Silverado Trail) | 707-967-1205
www.therestaurantatmeadowood.com
Hidden in a “high-end” St. Helena “country club”–like resort with “serene views of
forest” and “croquet fields”, this gourmet “delight” is “a shrine to cuisine” under
the helm of chef Christopher Kostow, who displays “pure artistry” with his “stellar”
Californian tasting menus (and “whimsical presentations”); “fantastic premium”
wines add to the “great experience”, as does a “perfectly” coordinated “small
army of servers” at your “every beck and call” in the revamped dining room; it’s
definitely a “sky-is-the-limit” tab, but “worth the splurge.”
RN74
French 23
24
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E
SoMa | Millennium Tower | 301 Mission St. (bet. Beale & Fremont Sts.) | San Francisco
415-543-7474
www.rn74.com
Oenophiles happily “jump aboard” Michael Mina’s “swank” SoMa bistro done
up like a “European train station” where the drama of the “revolving” “timetable
board” advertising bottle “bargains” “nearly eclipses” the “solid”, “high-ticket”
New French fare; it’s aces for a “client lunch” and “happy hour” is a “scream” (as
in “loud”) when the “beautiful people” and “tech” titans crowd in, but the vino,
chosen with prowess by Rajat Parr and crew, is what really “makes it special.”
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Wicket’s Bistro
Californian ––– E
Carmel Valley | Bernardus Lodge | 415 Carmel Valley Rd. (Laureles Grade Rd.) | 831-658-3400
www.bernardus.com
The “beautiful patio” “is the place to be” at this Carmel Valley Californian, “a more
casual” sidekick to the Bernardus Lodge’s tony Marinus where the “heavenly”
“outdoor setting” with a “view of the lawns” compensates for a “quite bland” interior;
serving an abbreviated menu of pricey, “solid” bistro fare, it’s a “dependable”
retreat “on a warm day” or by the open-air fireplace when the temperature dips.
Will’s Fargo N 21
Dining House & Saloon Seafood/Steak
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23
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Carmel Valley | Carmel Valley Vill. | 16 W. Carmel Valley Rd. (bet. Purton Ln. &
Village Dr.) | 831-659-2774
www.bernardus.com
Done up as a ritzy roadhouse, this circa-1959 surf ’n’ turf trouper indulges
Carmel Valley carnivores with “surprisingly excellent” steaks and “California wines”
from its nearby partner, Bernardus Winery; the “warm service” and “charming
atmosphere” are especially welcome since for an old-fashioned red meat spree,
it’s about “the only game in town”; P.S. closed Tuesday and Wednesday.
Seattle
Canlis = Pacific NW 28
28
28
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Lake Union | 2576 Aurora Ave. N. (Raye St.) | 206-283-3313
www.canlis.com
The “next generation of Canlis sons” makes sure that “everything’s perfect” at this
circa-1950 “Seattle institution”, where chef Jason Franey (ex NYC’s Eleven Madison
Park) reinterprets Pacific NW classics and turns out “perfectly executed” meals that
are “outstanding from beginning to end”; in the midcentury modern room framing
a “gorgeous Lake Union view”, service that’s “like choreography” anticipates your
every need, and while it’s all “brutally pricey”, you “definitely get what you pay for.”
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United States, Washington, DC | Sips and Celebrations
Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Crush ~ American 27
23
25
E
Zaytinya
Mediterranean/Mideastern 26
24
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Madison Valley | 2319 E. Madison St. (23rd Ave.) | 206-302-7874
www.crushonmadison.com
Penn Quarter | Pepco Bldg. | 701 Ninth St. NW (G St.) | 202-638-0800
www.zaytinya.com
Set in a “revamped” Craftsman house with a “modern” vibe, this “gem” in “up-andcoming” Madison Valley features “fresh, original” takes on American cuisine from
chef-owner Jason Wilson, who provides “delicious thrills every time”; the “prompt”
staff is “knowledgeable” about the “locally sourced” fare and “impressive” wine
pairings, and while a meal here is “memorable”, so is the large bill that goes with it.
“Who can resist” the “wonders” of chef José Andrés’ “unbelievably tasty” Eastern
Mediterranean meze, especially when paired with “phenomenal” regional wines
in a “beautiful, light and airy” setting close to everything in the Penn Quarter; the
city’s “enduring” “love affair” with this “crazy, loud” stunner means reservations are
“highly recommended”, but once your “culinary tour” is booked, a “helpful staff”
will be your “guide” – just beware: it’s “hard to keep the bill down with so many
tempting small plates.”
Washington, DC
Jaleo
Spanish 242021 M
Penn Quarter | 480 Seventh St. NW (E St.) | 202-628-7949
www.jaleo.com
A “pitcher of sangria” and a “steady stream” of “delicious”, “witty” tapas at this spot
overseen by “rock-star” Spanish chef José Andrés are the answer to a “bruising work
week”, “out-of-town guests” or a “date-night” dilemma; “terrific” crews deftly handle the
“racket and bustle” in “festively” decorated settings that feel as “fresh and exciting as
ever”, though costs can “add up quickly” – especially if you “have to try everything”;
P.S. the space recently had a bold, designer redo not reflected in its Decor rating.
Oyamel L Mexican 25
22
21
E
Penn Quarter | 401 Seventh St. NW (D St.) | 202-628-1005
www.oyamel.com
“No burritos or chimichangas here!” cheer fans of the “delightful, creative” tapas
and street food given “a typical José Andrés twist” (e.g. grasshopper tacos
“you’ll jump for”) at this high-end Penn Quarter Mexican with a “funky”, “loud”
atmosphere; some say that service, while “friendly”, “doesn’t match the quality
of the food”, but for most, niceties like “super-strong” margaritas and the “edible
entertainment” of guacamole made tableside extend the fiesta feeling.
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Sips and Celebrations | Where Wine Enthusiasts Sample the World’s Finest Verietals
Wine critic Robert M. Parker Jr. of
THE WINE ADVOCATE: “The finest glasses for both
After a successful design project with Parsons The New
School for Design in 2007, Nachtmann continues to expand
on their relationships with widely known and respected design
schools. In 2010, Nachtmann partnered with Pratt Institute in
New York to initiate a design competition for students led by
product designer Stefanie Kubanek.
Pratt Institute, celebrating its 125 years of excellence in education, is one of the most preeminent schools for architecture,
art and design in the United States.
technical and hedonistic purposes are those made
by Riedel. The effect of these glasses on fine wine
is profound. I cannot emphasize enough what
a difference they make.”
Pratt Institute industrial design student Alvaro Uribe, an
emerging designer, succeeded in this competition and created a new line for NACHTMANN-PETALS. The patterns of the
crystal vase resemble tender petals and the sequence of the
petals creates a modern and extraordinary design. The poetry
of its pattern along with its brilliant light refraction will bring a
delicate touch to each table and ambiance.
TIME MAGAZINE:
“The Riedel family has never stamped its name
on a single bottle of wine. But over the past 50 years,
this Austrian clan of master glassmakers has done
more to enhance the oenophile’s pleasure than
almost any winemaking dynasty.”
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