5 CHAPTER 2 THEORITICAL FOUNDATION 2.1

CHAPTER 2
THEORITICAL FOUNDATION
2.1. Theories of Biomorphic
According to Ghislaine Wood, “Biomorphic forms is one of the most
recognizable aspects of early post-war art and design. Occurred from the late 1930
organic shapes increasingly came to dominate and influenced artists and designers,
and by the early 1950 “free from” was a common visual language applied to all
fields of practice, from painting and sculpture including fashion" (Wood, 2007, The
shapes of life: Biomorphism and American Design)
Biomorphism is an art movement that found in the 20th century. It attempts to
resemble design elements into naturally occurring shapes, or patterns of the nature.
Biomorphic focuses on the natural life and uses organic shape such as: shell, wood
and rocks as an main inspiration to become a functional product such as: furniture,
utensil, and architecture, organic shape is an irregular shape, usually might be found
in nature, rather than a regular shape, come with abstract, shapeless, curvy or
geometry line or shape, organic shape like, shell, rock, tree, leaves, water and wood,
known for curvy, abstract and shapeless form known for Biomorphic.
According to Gigi Bio, on her art installation in Art Whino Gallery, Washington
DC “Biomorphic" the Solo Show of Gigi Bio. “Biomorphic is a phrase commonly
related as an organic, abstract shapes came from biology or living organisms. The
word, "bio" means life and "morphic" means transformation” (Bio, 2011).
Biomorphic has connections with Surrealism and Art Nouveau. Surrealism is a
cultural movement that found in the early 1920s, known for visual writing and
artworks. This work has an element of surprise, unexpected items that are placed to
each other for no reason, which is an abstract form. Most of Surrealist artists and
writers who view their work as an expression of the philosophical movement,
additionally surrealism is a movement of political culture, as a form of rebellion
against the political situation in the world war I, surreal word itself first appeared in
5
6
the 1917 in the prologue of Les Mamelles de Tirésias, which was written in 1903.
The author is Guillaume Apollinaire, He was a playwright, French poet, short story
writer, art critic t and novelist, further that emerged out of Surrealism was
Biomorphic abstract art, some of the artists use the natural influence as the main
inspiration.
Surrealism is a style of abstract form known for the examination unconsciousness
as a form of reality, imagination and the dream, the aspiration to push against the
boundaries of socially and politically and in a way to identify a true thought of an
artists, and insistence on the shape and line to make art strange, ambiguous and
abstract. "Beloved imagination, what I most like in you is your unsparing quality”
said André Breton (Breton, 1924).
Art Nouveau is the style of modern art that is full of ornament, decorative and
asymmetric characteristics of plants likewise curvy or geometry lines, this work was
appeared in 1890s–1910s, art nouveau ended in 1920s by the post-war. The designs
was inspired by characteristic, structure and forms of natural essentials such as:
flower and leaves, also usually has curved or geometry lines on the details. Nature
was the most important essential for art nouveau artists and designers, the artist or
designer adapted motifs and shape from the natural with modernity influence on the
design or ornaments. “Art takes nature as its model”.(Aristoteles)
Art Nouveau produces a functional devices or ornament like interior design,
decorative art, utensil, graphic art, architecture, furniture, lighting, household and
jewelry. A natural form usually knows Art Nouveau products, which is organic
shape. According to Rene Binet on her book From Nature to form,“ Use of nature
takes on another significance within a larger discourse about the artistic adoption of
natural forms in the decorative arts” (Binet, 2007).
Lastly, Biomorphic was emerged of surrealism and art nouveau, in which
abstract, strange and ambiguous were occurred of surrealism shape, moreover the
inspiration of the design come out by approaching of art nouveau, which natural
form as a main inspiration and influence in order to get a finish product.
These are the example of art in Surrealism and Art Nouveau:
7
Surrealism
Fig 2.1 Paysage, 1961 by Jean Arp in Estate of the Artist.
Source: www.surrealists.co.uk
Fig 2.2 Head with three Annoying objects, 1930 by Jean Arp in Estate of the
Artists
Source: www.surrealsanity.wordpress.com
8
Fig 2.3 Two Children Are Threatened by a Nightingale, 1924 by Max Ernst in
Museum of Modern Art, New York.
Source: www.surrealsanity.wordpress.com
Fig 2.4 Carnival of harlequin, 1924-1925 by Joan Miro in Albright-Knox in Gallery,
Bufallo, New York.
Source: www.001galerie.com
9
Art Nouveau
Fig 2.5 Salon du Café de Paris, 1898 by Louis Majorelle
Source: www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Majorelle
Fig 2.6 Nénuphar bed, 1902-1903 by louis Majorelle in the Musée d'Orsay,
Paris.
Source: www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_Majorelle
10
Fig 2.7 Loie Fuller table lamp, 1901 by François Raoul Larche.
Source: www.theredlist.com
In this thesis the writer will take the Biomorphic into the design, with three
Biomorphic modern furniture inspirations below, would translate the idea that the
writer looking for like, folded, natural, shapeless and ambiguous.
11
Fig 2.8 Free Concrete by Itai Bar-On
Source: www.itaibaron.com
This sculptural piece is handmade with concrete made by itai bar-on studio on
the 2012, the piece was customized bending process in a way to allow the concrete to
be rendered in lightweight, to get free form shape. The process for making a surface
by combining both smooth and rougher surface, in order to have more natural texture
and effect. Big folding and bending inspiring the writer to learn more and adapt that
silhouette for the collection for biomorphic inspiration
Fig 2.9 4 olga w by sawaya and moroni
Source: www.sawayamoroni.com
This limited edition arm chair by sawaya moroni, made out of wood with
curvy and flowing lines, the design was virtually alive by approaching the flow of
the curvy lines and with the texture of the grain on the wood makes this chair look
natural and interesting, the shape of the seat was comfort and cozy at the same time.
12
Furthermore, with curvy form and rare silhouette such as: the big folding and
bending on the arm chair, then the clean and smooth texture makes the writer very
excited to explore more of the shapes and lines in this chair into the form of the piece
in the collection.
Fig 2.10 Trihedron by sawaya and moroni
Source: www.sawayamoroni.com
The design for this table inspired by curvy geometry, gives modernity and fresh
design, also with smooth surface and clean color.
13
2.2. Biomorphic in Sculptured
Organic abstract form focusing on imitates or mimicking the nature, with
curvy and shapeless form, in biomorphic sculptured imitative from Art Nouveau and
Surrealism with abstract, ambiguous and strange style into the piece. In Germany for
example naturalism grow the inspiration of plants and animal for the sculptured
shape, the artists are Jean Arp and Henry Moore used this essential in modern way
and style. Henry Moore signature works are the abstractions of human body and Jean
Arp signature style is Surrealism movement with abstract creation.
“Art is artificial and nature is natural. I do not share this opinion. Art's origins
are natural”, said Jean Arp (Arp, 1958).
Day, Elizabeth. “The Moore Legacy”. The Observer, 27 july 2008. "All art
should have a certain mystery and should make demands on the spectator. Giving a
sculpture or a drawing too explicit a title takes away part of that mystery so that the
spectator moves on to the next object, making no effort to ponder the meaning of
what he has just seen. Everyone thinks that he or she looks but they don't really, you
know." (Moore, The moore legacy)
This style emerged in the 1930s until 1940s, the first sculptural was used
Biomorphic for the work inspiration is Alfred H Barr in 1936 “Biomorphic statue”,
Barr was a modern British sculpture in the 1930-1970 era. The following below are
examples of some of the artists who thrive on organic biomorphic sculpture.
Jean Arp (1886-1966)
• Head with Three Annoying Objects in 1932 by Jean Arp for Private Collection.
• Human Concentration in 1934 by Jean Arp in National Museum of Modern Art,
Paris.
14
Fig 2.11 Giant Pip, 1937 by Jean Arp in National Museum of Modern Art, Paris.
Source: www.theredlist.com
Fig 2.12 Demeter,1961 by Jean Arp in Israel Museum, Jerusalem.
Source: www.europeana.eu
• Clock in 1924 by Jean Arp for Private Collection.
15
Henry Moore (1898-1986)
Fig 2.13 Composition, 1932 by Henry Moore in Tate Gallery.
Source: www.tate.org.uk
Fig 2.14 Reclining Figure, 1936 by Henry Moore in Wakefield City Art Gallery and
Museum.
Source: www.henry-moore.org
• Recumbent Figure in 1938 by Henry Moore in Green Tate Gallery.
• Draped Reclining Mother and Baby in 1948 by Henry Moore in Yorkshire
Sculpture Park, UK.
16
• Two Forms in 1966 by Henry Moore in Staehein Collection, Zurich.
2.3. Biomorphic in Painting
According to www.visual-arts-cork.com. “Biomorphic in painting most
influenced by surrealism because it essentially is derived from the abstraction and
ambiguous in style” (Collins). The painter who carried Biomorphic was Joan Miro
and Yves Tanguy with Surrealism work. Yves Tanguy brings out the Biomorphic
with sea creature and The ribbon of extremes in 1932. Tanguy’s paintings have a
different and nonrepresentational surrealism, with abstract background on the
painting with limited tone of color and touch of contrasting color, the design was
sharp, curvy, angular and biomorphic but also with an attractive organic look like
giant amoeba turned to stone, with organic influences also surrealism was described
the Tanguy’s art work. Miro’s signatures style Surrealism with colorful color a recreation of the childlike. These are below the artists carries Biomorphic Painting.
Yves Tanguy (1900-55)
Fig 2.15 Mama, Papa is wounded! In 1927 by Yves Tanguy in Museum of Modern
Art, New York.
Source:www.onesurrealistaday.com
17
Fig 2.16 The Ribbon of Extremes in 1932 by Yves Tanguy for Private Collection.
Source: www.onesurrealistaday.com
Joan Miro (1893-1983)
Fig 2.17 The Farm in 1922 by Joan Miro in Tate Modern Art Galllery.
Source: www.onesurrealistaday.com

Dona I Ocell (1983)
18
2.4. Biomorphic in Architecture
According to www.duranvirginia.wordpress.com. “Biomorphic Architecture
bases its shape on human and animal forms, and this type of shape is inspired from
nature” (DURAN , 2014). Today architecture has evolved over the times due to the
develops in construction and technology. Organic architecture has influence by the
Art Nouveau movement, back then 1882, 132 years ago when Antoni Gaudy was
built a Sagrada Familia with his style combining gothic and curvilinear from Art
Nouveau forms, for the interior Gaudi used Art Nouveau influence like, tree
branches as an idea for the pillars and ceilings in 2010 the Sagrada Familia was
completed.
“Organic means something that has entity. Only entity can live. So when you
get that into a building, you have got it into civilization, and, when you understand
the nature of the term organic and the nature of nature study as I am advocating it to
you now, you can have the center line of the civilization that can preserve itself, that
can persevere.”
said Frank Lloyd Wright (Wright, 1957).
Modern organic architecture has sinuous edge and curved shapes from natural
form from Wright’s vision, beginning from Frank Llyod Wright for Modern organic
architecture with the fallingwater in 1935, the design according to Wright’s close
natural living the house was built with stream and waterfall under one part of the
area. The vision from Wrights was organic architecture was always the inherent
relationship with natural form.
"Using Nature as our basis for design, a building or design must grow, as
Nature grows, from the inside out. Most architects design their buildings as a shell
and force their way inside. Nature grows from the idea of a seed and reaches out to
its surroundings. A building thus, is akin to an organism and mirrors the beauty and
complexity of Nature." (interface , 2012)
Last, organic architecture has emerged over the years from famous Sagrada
Familia with Art Nouveau influence to Fallingwater natural idea creation, with the
improvement of the technology organic shape can construct and build more
Biomorphic structure or shaped like life and bringing wright’s idea that natural forms
like curvy shape, wavy lines and geometry into the architecture now.
19
Fig 2.18 Detail of the roof Gaudi design for Sagrada Famila with tree branches on
the pillars and ceilings.
Source: www.wikipedia.org
20
Fig 2.19 Sagrada Familia in 1882 by Antoni Gaudi inspired from Biomorphic for the
architecture design in Barcelona, Spain.
Source: www.wikipedia.org
Fig 2.20 Falling water in 1935 by Frank LIyod Wright in Southwestern Pennsylvania
Source: www.wikipedia.org
2.4. Biomorphic in Modern Furniture
Furniture has been a part of human needs as moveable things that support
human activities such as seating, dining and sleeping. Before the modernist design
movement in the 19 th century, the design was very complicated with little of
functionality also the design was not attractive.
Modern furniture industrial design developed using advanced methods, new
technologies, unique shapes and a different material, by the year has evolved the
designer used Natural form as an inspiration. Biomorphic industrial design is also
emerged in the work of Alvar Aalto and Isamu Noguchi design. In Biomorphic
industrial design is also seen in the work of Alvar Aalto design and Isamu Noguchi.
The influence of Noguchi table was a natural object but not look similar like natural
21
shape, only use the essential that remind of the nature into functional devices for
human needs. The table firstly appeared in modernist furniture in the mid 20 th
century, with curved wooden shape and a wavy glass at the top the idea was use of
biomorphic which can be seen with freeform sculpture for wooden shape and
biomorphic natural inspired for silhouette for glass.
Round, curve, linear, geometry and wavy with unusual shape from modern
furniture by combining the essential of nature will make human being feel better
because humans are literally inseparable with nature and aesthetically attracted to
natural contents, with the fast pace life in the urban area nature will reduce a human
stress, gain healthiness and balancing their life with the design an uncommon
furniture shape.
Fig 2.21 Noguchi table, 1947 in United State inspired by Biomorphic design with
wood material base and glass for the top.
Source: www.homelife.com.au
Fig 2.22 Alvar Aalto table in 1930, a circular dining table with wood
material.
22
Source: www.norepro.co.uk
2.5. Biomorphic in Fashion
Natural material had elaborated in fashion design since the designer starting
to looked for something new and fresh to put to their inspiration, and natural
essential has an unique point for designers to observe. Biomorphic or organic shapes
are prior steps for fashion, because fashion is for human being, human body shape is
an organic.
According to Holly Marie Armishaw, contemporary artist on her write in
“Organic Morphologies- A resurgence, “Organic shape occurred in fashion with
influence by Art nouveau in the 19s century with decorative and ornament
embellishment” (Armishaw , 2012), by the modern era, this organic or biomorphic
influence has made into avant-garde fashion such as the genius designers Alexander
McQueen and Hussein Chalayan. McQueen signature design like, extreme silhouette,
and organic nature collection such as: birdcages, animals, and plants, in order to
bring the theatrical drama into the catwalk, and also Chalayan in 1993 final graduate
collection named “ The Tangent Flow” the clothing which he had buried and left
until decomposed before the clothes worn by the model and sending them to the
runway this kind of natural way like decomposed has increase a fashion field into
next level especially in natural development, the aeroplane dress in autumn/winter
1999 collection with stiff and volume shape, table skirt from “Afterwords”
autumn/winter 2000 collection.
According to www.blog.kin-chan.com, ”The use of unconventional and organic
shapes could help create designs that are far less linear” (Chan , 2011) , not only in
avant-garde fashion but also Biomorphic shape can be seen in ready-to-wear outfit
with more wearable and comfortable fabric, nowadays, some designers have created
an organic shape into a collection that is just the silhouette inspiring example of an
organic form designer by David Koma, the winners of The Vauxhall Fashion Scout
Merit Award, showed in spring/summer 2010
in London Fashion Week with
“Round-up” theme.
All in all, Biomorphic in fashion occurred because of Art Nouveau with
decorative art and embellishment bases on Holly Marie Armishaw, contemporary
artist on her write in “Organic Morphologies- A resurgence”, and then the designers
23
bring the nature inspired into the fashion today with more technology and science
involved for avant-garde, and unique, modern and different silhouette for ready-towear.
The writer wants to make something unique, innovative and modern by using
natural sense which Biomorphic as an inspiration for the designs. In this thesis the
texture from nature and manmade such as shell, wood, rock, marbling, wood and
rock sculpting also cracked will be part to create a whole attire collection, also the
shape of the collection will be represented the biomorphic shape which are volume,
stiff and big structure.
Fig 2.23 Alexander McQueen’s antler dress “Widows of Culloden” Fall/Winter
2006/07
www.telegraph.co.uk
24
Fig 2.24 Alexander McQueen’s black duck feather dress “The Horn of Plenty”
fall/winter 2006/07
www.blog.metmuseum.org
Fig 2.25 The Tangent Flow in 1993, buried and decomposed the clothes by Hussein
Chalayan
Source: www.fashionandpower.blogspot.com
25
Fig 2.26 Table skirt from “Afterwords”, 2000 for autumn/winter collection.
www.img.ezinemark.com
Fig 2.27 The Aeroplane dress, 1999 by Hussein Chalayan for autumn/winter.
www.1.bp.blogspot.com
26
Fig 2.28 Round-up by David Koma for spring/summer 2010 in London
Fashion Week.
Source: www.ftape.com
Fig 2.29 Biomorphic Fashion today
Source: www.wgsn.com.
27
2.6. Biomorphic in Human life
“Art is not to do with the practical side of making a living. It's to live a fuller
human life” said Henry Moore (Moore, 1958) Human living in nature and from
nature human has adapted with nature environment, for example human use nature as
a main needs for a living, for distance, nature provide water and tree to support
human literally their need each other, from that base could get result that nature not
only provide water and tree but also a pure inspiration for designer to work with.
Today, there are several artists use Natural essential as a main inspiration for
creative designs, because human really close to the nature and aesthetically attracted
to natural contents. With the fast pace life in the urban area nature would reduce,
human stress, gain healthiness and balancing their life. It seems with the architecture,
living stuff with unusual shape or pattern will make human feel better. Furthermore
Biomorphic design also would become a unique and fresh design. Nature also the
only way to refresh a soul and mind for designers by observing nature and take the
pattern of tree or colors of leaves to use those as a essential for designing a
collections, in a way to make a innovative and original final product. Nature and
human can elaborate and make something beautiful and pure.
Biomorphic design in human life very useful, nature is inspiring artists to create
something beyond the human mind, as is done by the artist Ernesto Neto, he is a
contemporary visual artist, in his installation of annual commissions by the Park
Avenue Armory, in 2007, he made gauzy Lycra fabric inspired by amoeba form, and
bean-shaped couch where people can sit and even sleep on it.
According to www.artandculture.com “Biomorphic is known for shaped like life,
a thing that imitates the form from living organism, and in architecture area they are
designing building by modifying natural element like tree, shell, rock or any other
living organism and either in fashion and art side” (artandculture, 2011). Natural
material had elaborated in fashion design since the designer starting to looked for
something new and fresh to put to their inspiration, and natural essential has an
unique point for designers to observe.
28
Fig 2.30 Gauzy Lycra fabric inspired by amoeba form by Ernesto Neto
Source : www.artislant.com
Fig 2. 31 Humanoid by Ernesto Neto
29
Source: www.designboom.com.
Fig 2.32 Danggling pods inspired by amoeba by Ernesto Neto
Source: www.designboom.com.
2.7. Natural Pattern.
Natural pattern is a form appeared in natural field included trees, spirals,
meanders, symmetries, waves, foams, arrays, crack, and stripes. The writer adapts
the crack and marble as a main idea for printing application for the collection, in
natural content crack has a different variety to one another
Cracks openings formed from a surface due to its shrinking elastic material,
which eventually reaches the surface into its original shape and does not create
cracks. In tree cracks will appear different from the molecule itself each tree species
have different cracks, so the bottom line is shrinking as a result of cracks will appear
due to the elasticity of the surface temperatures around or room, that are not directed
at the entire surface eventually becomes its original shape and create cracks.
Marble is a non-foliated metamorphic rock composed of recrystallized
carbonate minerals for the results. Geologists use the term "marble" to
30
metamorphosed rocks. Marble is commonly used for sculpture and as a building
material such as floor or wall.
Fig 2.32 Cracked
Source: www.hdhomewall.com
31
Fig 2.33 Marble
Source: www.hdwallsweb.com