Singapore Little Black Book

n
oh
R
n
Du
ss
Rd
Se
rn
ra
n
ea
Te
d
Be
sa
r
Rd
Vi
Be
s
Jin
Rd
Rd
St
Hill
in
Ch
ock
Ch
urc
ss
lvd
hS
t
St
nW
ay
Chinatown
en
to
r
uD
Sh
Rd
n
so
Ro
bin
d
ent R
m
Canton
hr
sB
Rd
Sw
Cro
a
gB
f fle
Blvd
t
ee
Rd
Ra
blic
Be
ac
h
or
Repu
vel
Outra
m Rd
Zion Rd
Ha
n
ch
ir Rd
y Rd
po
Ro
Bras Basah
& Bugis
River Valle
m
Kampong
Glam
ar
ford
Bid
e
har
dR
d
ng Rd
St
Get lost and
find the real
Singapore
C
Orc
Pena
ria
o
ct
Oph
Singapore
Little Black
Book
Jin
Rd
Little
India
Ka
on
go
on
d
s
en
sR
ott
Sc
Bo
Rd
on R
l
ra
mo
Tu
as
Se
co
nd
Get lost!
Lin
k
Sungei Buloh
Lim Chu Kang
Jurong
Jurong Bird Park
Jurong Island
Mandai
Sembawang
Woodlands
Johor Causeway
Singapore Zoo
& Night Safari
Bukit Timah
Nature Reserve
Ang Mo Kio
MacRitchie
Reservoir
It’s fair enough that the graffiti-free walls, manicured
expressways and squeaky clean streets can fool visitors
into thinking they’re not in South-East Asia anymore,
but don’t let the clean and tidy exterior dissuade you
from scratching beneath the surface. At the end of the
day, it’s not the size of the city, it’s about all of the
multicultural, ethnically diverse and rapidly developing
layers that have been packed in for you to explore.
So go, get lost – and find the real Singapore.
$ in the Time Out Singapore Little Black Book represent S$ (Singapore Dollars)
Guide Editor Alexandra Karplus Creative Director Phil Bunting Group Editor Nick Dent
Contributors Vanessa Mulquiney, Laura Venuto, Clare Brundle, Emily Bunting, Sandy Koh, Josh
Crowley, Sandra Leong, Group Publisher Justin Etheridge Commercial Director Michael Rodrigues
Pulau Ubin
Changi
6km
Malaysia
Tampines
Katong & Joo Chiat
Marina Bay
Cruise Centre
Singapore
Sentosa
Little India
Holland Village
Kampong Glam
Dempsey Hill
Orchard Road
Bras Basah & Bugis
Chinatown
Marina Bay
Tiong Bahru
Labrador Park
Singapore
Cruise Centre
0
2
The big question will always remain, does size matter?
Singapore has managed to prove that even the small can
leave you impressed. Perhaps fuelled by a geographical kind
of Napoleon complex, the little red dot’s attempt to
overcompensate has succeeded in making the city stand out
in the crowd. This overachiever has been looking to outplay
not only its Asian neighbours but the rest of the world, by
having a never-ending slew of ‘biggests’and ‘firsts’. But
it’s time to look past the largest observation wheel and
wander beyond the world’s first night safari, and dig deeper
into what this city is really all about.
Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd (ABN 50 125 441 812) under the authority and in collaboration with Time Out International
Limited London UK. Time Out ® is the registered trademark of Time Out Group Limited, London UK. The right to use
the trademark, name and logo of “Time Out” are licensed from Time Out Group Limited London UK, © 2010. Printed by
Webstar, Bluestar Group, 83 Derby St, Silverwater NSW. Reproduction in whole or in part is not permitted without the
written permission of the publisher and Time Out Group Limited. The publishers regret that they cannot accept liability for
errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. The opinions and views contained in this publication
are not necessarily the views of the publishers.
This book has been produced by Print & Digital Publishing Pty Ltd’s Custom Guide Division on behalf of the Singapore
Tourism Board. For enquiries on the book call +61 2 8239 5990 or visit adcentre.au.timeout.com
Info is correct at time of printing but may be subject to changes.
For the latest info on Singapore visit YourSingapore.com
3
Your mission
...should you choose to accept it, is to get lost in Singapore. It’s easier
than you think! Here’s an over view to get you star ted...
The Arab enclave of Singapore, Kampong Glam (p26), is where you can learn
about some of the city-state’s Malay/Arab background, before perusing the shops
filled with offbeat designer fashion on Haji Lane. Holland Village (p12) has a
mixed bag of modern restaurants, late-night desserts and hawker fare, along with
quality watering holes; and Bras Basah & Bugis (p24) is home to some of the top
contemporar y art.
The city-state’s basic division of districts still reflects the original Town Plan, as
laid out by Stamford Raffles and Philip Jackson in 1822. The areas of most interest
to visitors are self-contained enough to make walking the best way to get about. If the
heat and humidity prove too exhausting, there’s always the MRT – Singapore’s cheap
and efficient train system – or grab a taxi (short trips typically cost under S$10, but
be aware surcharges apply during peak hours).
Start off by getting lost in Tiong Bahru’s (p16) wet market and continue by playing
witness to the neighbourhood’s gentrification at the latest trendy cafés. A wander
through the streets of Katong (p30) will introduce a melting pot of cultures, including
the rich Peranakan heritage. The former British army barracks at Dempsey Hill (p14)
are now filled with some of the city’s top restaurants and furniture shops in a rich
tropical setting. A mix of Chinese histor y, along with trendy boutiques and bars can
be sampled in Chinatown (p20). Head over to the streets of Little India (p22) to
experience a wonder ful multi-sensor y overload.
4
Some of the latest additions to the city can be found on Sentosa (p18), including
Universal Studios, the hotel-entertainment-hub of Resorts World Sentosa and the
recently opened W Hotel. Marina Bay (p28) is home to the globally-renowned Marina
Bay Sands, along with a plethora of celebrity-chef restaurants (p38) and recently
opened futuristic environmental park Gardens by the Bay.
While you’re in town, make sure to shop your heart out (p32) at the newest malls
on Orchard Road or tr y on the threads being sewn together by local designers; catch
cutting-edge DJs (p45) at some of the best clubs in the region; and rest your head
(p46) in a bed that fits your budget.
Garden City, Little Red Dot and, unfortunately, the ‘fine’ city, are all fair titles.
So, soak up the lush greener y, take advantage of the compact and easy-to-navigate
streets, and leave your chewing gum at home. There is way more to this city than
the clichés suggest and only one way to experience it – get out there and get lost!
5
Annual events
Singapore F1 Grand Prix
Expect high-speed action on the Marina
Bay F1 street circuit, replete with a host
of international headliners, world-class
entertainment and high-glam parties.
Late Sep
Plan your visit around Singapore’s festive seasons
Oct-Dec
Deepavali
Little India’s Serangoon Road is artfully
illuminated for this Hindu festival
symbolising the triumph of good over evil
and light over darkness. Late Oct
F1 Grand Prix
Christmas in the Tropics
Orchard Road and Marina Bay are
dressed in Yuletide finer y from midNovember, marking the beginning of
Christmas celebrations. Mid Nov-Dec
World Gourmet Summit
Cook and dine with the culinar y masters
at this summit spread across the city’s
top restaurants and bars.
Apr-May
Year-end parties
There’s no time for parties like the end
of the year. In early December you’ve got
dance festival Zouk Out, then on New
Year’s Eve there are countdown parties
galore at Marina Bay and Siloso Beach.
Dec-Jan
Great Singapore Sale
Need we say more? Shopping,
the national obsession (after
eating and talking about eating)
goes into overdrive. May-Jul
Jul-Sep
Chinese New Year
Jan-Mar
Mosaic Club are the two places to be
during the ten days of the Mosaic Music
Festival. From pop to world music to jazz,
this festival has it all. Mar
Chinese New Year Festivities
This is the biggest festival of the year.
Activities take place all over town but are
centred on Chinatown with street-lighting
ceremonies, the spectacular Chingay
parade, lion dance competition and
magnificent fireworks. Jan-Feb
Timbre Rock and Roots Festival
Timbre Rock and Roots Festival will rock
Marina Promenade with an impressive
line-up of local and international rock and
blues acts. Previous headliners include
Bob Dylan and Earth, Wind & Fire. Mar
Art Stage Singapore
Art Stage Singapore celebrates the
dynamic visual art of the Asian region.
More than 100 galleries will be exhibiting
works by more than 600 artists over
the three days. Special events include a
range of artist talks. Jan
Apr–Jun
Shakespeare in the Park
Each year Fort Canning Park becomes
a stage for one of the bard’s classics,
acted with panache by the Singapore
Repertor y Theatre.
Apr-May
Mosaic Music Festival
The Esplanade Concert Hall and the
6
Night Festival
Aerial per formances, music, dance and
installation light up the public green
spaces of the Singapore Management
University for this annual festival. Also
look out for other special events at
museums across the city.
Aug-Sep
Hari Raya Puasa
To celebrate the end of the monthlong fasting period of Ramadan,
the streets of Kampong Glam come
alive with roadside bazaars and
traditional Malay food.
Aug-Sep
New Year at
Marina Bay
Want more?
Mid-Autumn Festival
This Chinese Festival in honour of the
full moon is celebrated with colour ful
paper lanterns and street lights. The
food of the festival, mooncakes,
abound in Chinatown. Aug-Sep
Head to YourSingapore.com for the
very latest events and festivals
7
Got Singlish lah!
A brief guide to Singapore’s own pidgin English...
It’s not surprising that Singapore is the modern-day Babel, with four ‘official’
languages – English, Chinese, Tamil and Malay. Not to mention a host of unofficial
languages, and Singapore’s unique gift to the English-speaking world, Singlish – a
pidgin English that draws heavily from Chinese grammar translated back to English,
spoken with the cadences and the speed of Malay, and peppered with Hokkien,
Malay and some Tamil expressions.
Singlish adds ‘lah’ to the end of sentences or exclamations for emphasis, such
as telling an impatient person to ‘Wait, lah!’. There are other versions of this – ‘lor’,
‘meh’ and ‘mah’ being favourites. Sentences are often abbreviated until all that’s
left is the verb. In answer to a quer y about driving to the airport, a taxi driver might
reply ‘can’ or ‘cannot’. English expressions have also taken on new meanings in
Singlish. ‘Spoilt’ means broken, as in ‘this camera is spoilt’, and ‘to keep’ means
‘put away’ – thus ‘keep the clothes’ would mean ‘put the clothes away’.
8
A few key phrases...
The Singapore
Traveller’s creed
Ah beng A pejorative term to denote
a male of little class or education, with
limited horizons (a bogan).
Ah lian Female form of ah beng.
Aiyah/Aiyoh Chinese equivalent of ‘Oh
no!’ or ‘Oh dear!’
Ang moh Literally means ‘red hair’. A
commonly used term for Caucasians.
Atas (“Ah-tuss”) To describe superiority,
often used in reference to people who
are arrogant
Aunty/Uncle Pronounced ‘Anteee’
or ‘Uncaaal’, the terms are used as a
generic form of address for middle-aged
or elderly women/men. Referring to
older Singaporeans in this way will give
an ‘ang moh’ a lot of credibilty.
Bo pian lei Hokkien term to mean
that there is no choice.
Catch no ball Signifies a lack of
understanding ie ‘I don’t get it’.
Cheem Hokkien term meaning something
is profound or intellectual.
Is it? (or issit?) Interchangeable
with the English expression ‘Really?’ or
‘Is that so?’
Kopitiam Literally means ‘coffee shop’.
Kiasu (“Kee-ah-soo”) Literally, to be
afraid of losing or missing out on
something. It’s a defining characteristic
of many Singaporeans, who will rush for
early-bird event tickets, opening-night
tables at new restaurants or exploit any
other opportunity to get ahead.
Lah/leh Tagged at the end of a
sentence as an exclamation except in
questions.
Makan Malay term for eating
Neh mind The Singlish equivalent of
‘never mind’
Shiok (“Shee-oak”) An expression
conveying top quality or extreme pleasure.
(Blur like) sotong The Malay
word for squid or calamari, it also means
forgetful, or not knowing what’s going on.
Spoil market Someone who does his
work so well that he makes ever yone
else look bad.
Stone Used to convey lethargy or inactivity
with no connection to drug use.
1
I shall venture beyond
Changi Airport.
2
I shall not limit myself to the
Singapore Sling. It may be famous
but there’s more fun to be had
with a cloud-enveloped Nitro Dry
Martini from the Tippling Club,
or red hot Chilli Padi Mary from
Astor Bar St Regis. Tippling Club,
8D Dempsey Rd. +65 6475 2217.
tipplingclub.com. Astor Bar, 29
Tanglin Rd. +65 6506 6888.
3
I shall extend my family by
several thousand people, by
referring to all middle-aged
Singaporean men and women as
uncle and aunty.
4
I shall not leave Singapore
before discovering an appetite
for 2am Sambal Stingray. Chomp
Chomp, Stall 1, 20 Kensington
Park Rd.
5
I shall party Ibiza-style at Zouk
and Ku Dé Ta and end the night
at late-night eatery Spize for a
Milo Dinosaur and roti prata 409
River Valley Rd. +65 6734 9194.
spize.sg.
6
I shall understand Singapore’s
secret food language: ‘Kopi
O Kosong’ will deliver me a
straight, bitter coffee.
7
I shall shop further than Orchard
Road checking out independent
shops and designers in places
like Haji Lane (p27).
9
d
Rd
sa
r
Be
Jin
Be
sa
r
Be
sa
r
Hig
hw
ay
Av
e
Delta Rd
Delta Rd
Rd
lta
el
Via
t
es
W
du
ct
Co
hw
ig
tH
as
t
es
W
Co
hS
Wa
y
ton
en
Sh
Rd
n
so
bin
Ro
Aljunied Rd
Holland Village (p12)
For restaurants and trendy shops
Wa
y
ton
en
Sh
Rd
n
so
lta Rd
lta Rd
Ro
bin
Lower De
He
Lower
Lower
nd
er
Lower
sD
onelta
Rd Rd
Rd
so
n
er
nd
He
Lower De
Lower De
tH
as
pp
Aljunied Rd
oll
Nic
Be
ac
h
Rd
Hig
hw
ay
oll
Nic
Be
ac
h
Hill
St
Hill
St
Av
e
Jin
Jin
Bid
efo
rd
Rd
Rd
Tanglin
Rd
Tanglin
Rd
Ke
Tanjong Rhu Flyover
lvd
Ale
Rd
ndra
ct
d/
Tanjong Rhu Flyover
sB
xa
nd
ra
Rd
ra
nd
Ale
xa
Se
ra
ng
oo
n
Rd
sa
r
Be
Jin
Rd
Rd Sco
Bid
efo
rd
Rd
on
ters
Pa
Se
ra
ng
oo
n
New
New
Rd
tts
sR
d
Sco
tt
Rd
on
Pa
ters
sway
Que
en
ton
R
d
ton
R
Rd
Eva
ns
Rd
ns
Eva
Rd
Farrer
Rd
Farrer
sway
Que
en
Rd
ndra
Alexa
Alexa
du
ay
hw
ig
hR
n Rd
Marina Bay &
Marina South
Dempsey Hill (p14)
For cafés, galleries and
colonial chic
Tiong Bahru (p16)
For art deco charm
Sentosa (p18)
For beach resorts and family fun
Chinatown (p20)
For Chinese culture
Sentosa Gateway
Sentosa Gateway
Little India (p22)
For Indian food and Hindu temples
Bras Basah & Bugis (p24)
For souvenirs and museums
Kampong Glam (p26)
For Arab culture
Sentosa
Marina Bay & Marina South (p28)
For architectural marvels and
attractions
Katong & Joo Chiat (p30)
For multicultural food
rd
Via
ga
batte
Still
el
Rd
pp
Rd
ber
Ke
tten
ntba
Mou
Am
d/
Rd
Rd
ay
lan
hR
n Rd
Mount
Haig
Telo
kB
ga
Keppel Rd
rd
lan
Ba
Still
kB
hr
ng
po
m
Ka
batte
tten
ntba
Mou
Mount
ng Rd
Kato
Rd
ber
Am
Telo
r
uD
Chinatown
Keppel Rd
Coa
st Hig
hway
r
uD
Rd
ong
Rd
Ba
n
Rd
n
so
er
nd
He
ng
tte
Tanj
f fle
St
rah
po
ba
Singapore
by area
Me
m
Ka
Rd
Haig
kit
n
ng Rd
Kato
rah
Bu
nt
tte
ong
Jin
Me
an Rd
Dunm
Tanj
kit
r Rd
lvd
ba
aya Le
Ra
sB
lic
ub
p
Re
t
St
r Rd
f fle
lic
ub
p
Re
Cro
ss
ba
aya Le
Ra
Rd
ba
Lebar
Expy
Rd
t
an Rd
ou
aya
ng P
Kalla
hir
Rd
Katong & Joo Chiat
rd Rd
Dunm
nt
urc
hS
Sims Dr
Bu
Ch
urc
d
st Hig
hway
Wes
t
n
so
er
nd
He
Coa
Ch
ss
ent R
ay
Wes
t
or
Rd
Guillema
M
ou
Rd
Cro
hr
ighw
S
in
Ch
d
st H
Jin
S
in
Ch
ck
e
we
Cantonm
Coa
ah
ent R
ay
Mer
velo
ck
Rd
Rd
Cantonm
Wes
t
ighw
Op
ch
Rd
Changi
Rd
Ge
M
Ha
velo
Outra
m Rd
ukit
ah
Zion Rd
Outra
m Rd
Zion Rd
Jin B
Mer
Ha
Rd
rd Rd
Guillema
Rd
Sims Ave
Rd
Geylang
St
Ganges Ave
e
we
Rd
Geylang
Rd
Blvd
Alexandra Rd
Ganges Ave
Rd
y
Alexandra Rd
ng
Se
wa
ria
to
Vic
ir Rd
Kim
ns
Tiong Bahru
st H
hir
Rd
Blvd
ey Rd
Rd
Rd
ee
ukit
Coa
Op
ch
or
Ro
ir Rd
ey
all
rV
e
Riv
Qu
Jin B
Wes
t
hard
Rd
ng Rd
River Vall
ey Rd
Rd
ng
e
Qu
ve
Av
ee wn A
r tsdown ortsnsdo
wa
Po
P
y
Bras Basah
& Bugis
Ro
blic
River Vall
ey
all
rV
Se
wn
sdo
Port
or
h
Kim
r tsdown
Po
Roch
alt
e
Riv
g
ylan
Rd
Geylang
Geylang
blic
Dempsey Hill
Grange Rd
Grange
Rd
Rd
St
Oph
on
we
h
Sim
Rd
Lebar
Expy
Grange
m
alt
Vic
Oph
we
Orc
Pena
s
Ave
aya
ng P
Kalla
m
on
or
Orc
hard
Rd
ng Rd
Grange Rd
Ge
Ave
Changi
e
Sims Av
Repu
Co
m
ria
to
Rd
Roch
Pena
Sims Dr
Ta
s
g
ylan
St
Rd
Rd
rd
n
ngli
d
ah
ng
Rd
Sims Ave
e
Sims Av
Kampong Glam
Tim
Rd
ng
Ke
fo
aw
Cr
Rd
rR
ah
on
St
m
pie
Rd
Tim
Bo
Ke
Sim
Repu
Co
Na
Ta
Holland Village
ver
on
rd
n
ngli
Flyo
Bo
fo
aw
Cr
hA
ve
HollandNaRd
pie
r
n
se
s
Te
it
Rd
Rd
d
gR
nd
Holland Rd
en
nK
lla
ton
FRlydo
ver
tts
o
Bo
Ho
Rd
er
nd
New
ton
o
Sc
n
h
so
k
Bu
lla
New
p
Up
Ho
Rd
it
alt
r
tts
o
Sc
k
Bu
hA
ve
we
Rd
y Rd
on
alt
ens
n
Clu
mm
we
Stev
Rd
yove
y Rd
on
r
n
Clu
Co
mm
ens
Rd
yove
Co
Stev
rn
nd Fl
s Rd
Steven
Holla
s Rd
Steven
Rd
and
Holl
Holla
nd Fl
n
se
s
Te
ea
Rd
Rd
Rd
rn
and
and
Holl
h
so
Rd
Little India
n
n
Du
ea
Holl
Rd
B
n
Du
B
and
Rd
Moulmein Rd
d
gR
al
or
alm
Moulmein Rd
son Rd
Thom
Rd
al
or
alm
Holl
Rd
en
nK
earn
o
Bo
Dun
F
son Rd
Thom
F
Rd
Wayang
Satu
Flyov
Flyov
er
er
Buk
Buk
it Ti
it Ti
mah
mah
Dun
earn
Rd
Rd
Rd
Satu
er
Wayang
d
rR
re
ar
Rd
d
rR
re
ar
on
ms
mah Rd
on
ms
mah Rd
p
Up
Rd
o
Th
Rd
o
Th
ion
e
dW
nR
tio
na
ro
Co
ion
e
dW
nR
tio
na
ro
Co
Area guide
Holland Village
Go here for... Bohemian atmosphere, knick-knacks, contemporar y
cuisine, and bars and small shops by budding entrepreneurs
Snap Shop
Hol
lan
dR
d
Wala Wala
Holland Village
Lor
ga
Ave
66
99
Hollan
d
44
Liput
33
22
Tam
11
rah Sa
rM
a
77 5 mbo
5
ng
Jin Me
Lo
Rd
an W
arna
8
2am:dessert bar
m ia
Jin Ru
ela
K
Jin
Holland Village
Still Singapore’s best-known expat district, Holland Village is filled with modern
restaurants, bars and shops alongside old-style coffee shops and knick-knack
stores. Small indoor-outdoor restaurants line Jalan Merah Saga, including Original
Sin 1 (#01-62, 43 Jalan Merah Saga, +65 6475 5605, originalsin.com.sg), with
a Mediterranean menu of all vegetarian cuisine; Bistro Petit Salut 2 (#01-54, 44
Jalan Merah Saga, +65 6474 9788, aupetitsalut.com) for casual French fare; or
traditional Thai dishes at Mai Thai 3 (#01-58, 44 Jalan Merah Saga, +65 6474
3108, www.maithai.com.sg).
12
Co
mm
on
we
Holla
n
For great local grub and
some of the cheapest beer in
town, Holland Village Food
Court 9 (33 Lorong Liput)
stays open around the clock.
Trendy shops line Lorong Mambong. Check out Snap Shop 4 (1 Lor Mambong,
+65 8199 6126, www.snapshopasia.com), a camera shop promoting analog
photography in this digital age; or Antipodean 5 (27A Lorong Mambong, +65 6463
7336, www.antipodeanshop.com), an all-things-girlie boutique on the second floor.
Chill out in the bars, pubs and cafés at night when the road is closed to traffic. The
local branch of Crystal Jade Kitchen 6 (2 Lorong Mambong, +65 6469 0300, www.
cr ystaljade.com) ser ves their xiao long bao (soup dumpings) late into the night; and
old-faithful two-floor watering hole Wala Wala 7 (31 Lorong Mambong, +65 6462
4288, www.imaginings.com.sg) has been boasting a wide range of quality beers for
over 20 years.
Que
As the name implies, the Dutch were the first community in this neighbourhood,
occupied by plantations and nurseries prior to settlement. The district was named in
honour of early Dutch resident, architect Hugh Holland. The British Army followed and
in the 1960s set up many of the terrace homes that now make up Chip Bee Gardens,
a small enclave on Jalan Merah Saga, that has attracted many artists, writers and
filmmakers in recent years – it’s considered the bohemian heart of the city.
bu
Don’t miss ...
Holland Village
ap
Food Court
As
ens
nd
la
Hol
alt2am:dessert
A chic ante-room for sweet-toothed nighthawks can be found around the corner at
(21a Lorong Liput, +65 6291 9727, www.2amdessertbar.com),
h A where bar
ve modern desserts are paired with a carefully selected wine list.
8
13
dR
d
Q
Dempsey Rd
Area guide
Dempsey Hill
De
Holland Rd
12
mp 55
se
yR
d
Dempsey Hill
11
10
77
Dem
pse
yR
d
66
910
22
9
13
33
1
1
d
ing R
d
yR
se 88 44
mp
Hard
en Rd
11
De
Ryan Clift,
Tippling Club
Loew
Go here for... Cafés, bars, restaurants, gourmet food shops,
ar t galleries, antiques and colonial chic
Don’t miss ...
Tippling Club
Tippling Club 13 (8D Dempsey Rd,
+65 6475 2217, www.tipplingclub.
com), offering modern five-, tenand 15-course dinner menus that
match cocktails to dishes.
m
m
on
we
The lush green setting is great for a relaxing weekend brunch. Stop by PS.Café 1
(28B Harding Rd, +65 9070 8782, pscafe.com) and enjoy traditional eggs Benedict
or their signature Brunch Burger, topped with Camembert, while overlooking the leafy
environs. Another early-afternoon weekend dining option can be found over at House
2 (8D Dempsey Rd, +65 6475 7787, www.dempseyhouse.com). Tr y the Asian sliders
made with pork belly in steamed buns.
al
th
All of this can be followed by some serious unwinding right upstairs at Beauty
Emporium 3 (Blk 8D, Lvl 2, Dempsey Rd, +65 6479 0070, www.spa-esprit.com). The
spa pays tribute to its charmingly verdant surroundings with a wide range of signature
treatments that pluck their ingredients straight from the hand of Mother Nature.
Dempsey is filled with antique shops that offer furniture, masks and trinkets from
around the region and throughout China. Woody Antique House 6 (Blk 13, #01-05
Dempsey Rd, +65 6471 1770, www.woodyantique.com) has old Chinese chests, Indian
doors and Burmese teakwood. Asiatique Collections 7 (Blk 14A, Dempsey Rd. +65
6471 3146, www.asiatiquecollections.com) handpicks modern and vintage jewellery,
homewares and art from around the world. Red Sea Gallery 8 (Block 9 Dempsey Rd,
+65 6732 6711, www.redseagallery.com) showcases ceramics, sculptures, paintings
and glass works from Vietnam, Indonesia, India and New Zealand.
As the sun begins to set on the Hill, winers and diners pour into the
neighbourhood. As well as the Tippling Club, stand-out restaurants include;
Pamplemousse 9 (Blk 7, Dempsey Rd, #01-04, +65 6475 0080, www.
pamplemousse.com.sg), with its experimental Asian twists on classic European
dishes; and the Disgruntled Chef 10 (26B Dempsey Rd, +65 6476 5305, www.
disgruntledchef.com), where creative cocktails can be paired with small dishes like
the crispy lamb short-ribs.
Rd
Co
Tucked away near the Botanic Gardens and just a few minutes from Orchard Road,
Dempsey Hill ser ved as the British army barracks in colonial times and more recently
as a base for the local militar y. These days, however, the refurbished enclave is filled
with tropical trees and hosts some of the city’s top restaurants, cafés and galleries.
Asiatique Collections
Tangl
in
use
RedDot Brewho
Dempsey Hill
Gourmet grocer y shopping can also take place in this neck of the woods. Shop for
freshly ground coffee, organic ingredients from around the world or wander into the
chilled cheese room at Jones the Grocer 4 (Blk 9, #01-12 Dempsey Rd, +65 6476
1512, jonesthegrocer.com). A few blocks down, top cuts of meat and sausages are
on display at Huber’s Butchery 5 (18A Dempsey Rd, +65 6737 1588, hubers.com.
sg). Both spots have great lunch specials.
Stick around for live music at CM-PB 11 (Blk 7, Dempsey Rd, #01-05, +65 6475
0105, www.cm-pb.net) – the acronym stands for Contemporar y Melting-Pot & Bar; or
share a tower of the Monster Green Lager at RedDot Brewhouse 12 (25A Dempsey
Rd, #01-01, +65 6475 0500, www.reddotbrewhouse.com.sg), Singapore’s first local
microbrewer y, where acoustic acts per form regularly.
14
15
Rd
nd
ra
Rd
Alexandra Rd
Area guide
Ganges Ave
Go here for... Ar t deco charm, specialty shops, café culture,
hawker food and boutique hotels
Lower
Rd
lta
Lower De
Rd
n
88
St
so
Rd
on
n
Chi
ru
er
ah
Ho
nd
gB
g
He
Halo
n
Tio
t High
16
St
En
oas
H
Jin
oh
St
er
d
en
C
n
Ya
5
5
an
33
Rd
d
eR
Swe
Bu
Tiong Bahru
kit
www.facebook.com/fleatrees), vintage lovers can peruse pre-loved clothing from around
the world, top-brand shoes and furniture. Additional old-school treasures can also be
uncovered at nana & bird 6 (#01-02 Tiong Bahru Commons, 79 Chay Yan St, +65
9117 0430, nanaandbird.com), a hole-in-the-wall offering totes, accessories and frocks.
Me
rah
Rd
In Tiong Bahru’s art-deco styled district lies White Canvas Gallery 7 (#01-41, 78
Guan Chuan St, +65 6220 8723, www.whitecanvas-galler y.com). Get comfy on the
galler y’s couches and gaze at the South-East Asian artwork on its concrete walls.
Lower D
elta
Rd
y
ha
n
hL
Po
t
ng
tS
at
Se
gW
n
so
Independent bookstore BooksActually 4 (9 Yong Siak St, +65 6222 9195.
booksactually.com), has a wide spread of titles, whimsical stationery and tchotchkes.
Nearby at Flea and Trees 5 (68 Seng Poh Ln, +65 8139 1133,
44 66
9
9
11
11
P
ng
Tio
u
Ch
40 Hands
77
22
10
10
Rd
En
ah
an
Mer
Gu
Tiong Bahru Market 1 (30 Seng Poh Rd) has a wet market and some of
Singapore’s best hawkers under
its roof; it’s a great place to tr y out local
delicacies. Gentrification has seen the opening of places like 40 Hands 2 (#0112, 78 Yong Siak St, +65 6225 8545, www.40handscoffee.com) – a graffiti-walled
café producing speciality coffee. Alternatively, drop by Eng Hoon Mansions’ Caffe
Pralet 3 (#01-03, 17 Eng Hoon St, +65 6223 5595) if you fancy quick meals and
dainty desserts.
11
oh
P
ng
Se
Tiong Bahru
Just over the Central Expressway (CTE) from Chinatown is Tiong Bahru,
Singapore’s first public housing estate. Begun in the 1930s, it’s an attractive
array of low-rise flats painted orange and white. The architecture is a mix of art
deco and Straits Settlement styles, with flat rooftops, rounded balconies and spiral
staircases. An upper-class housing estate before World War II, it fell out of favour
in the following decades, but the refurbished flats are now popular with hip, young
homeowners.
Lim Liak St
Kim Pong Rd
ukit
Kim Tian Rd
Jin B
Tiong Bahru St
d
Outram R
Tiong Bahru
Market
Zion Rd
Delta Rd
Tiong Bahru
Wangz Hotel 8 (231 Outram Rd, +65 6595 1388, wangzhotel.com) outclasses
the surrounding hawker stalls in both style and stature. Diners at its downstairs
eater y Nectar can delight in the chic East-meets-West interior while enjoying an allday alfresco dining menu. Bring the party upstairs to Halo – a luxurious rooftop bar
offering an exhaustive list of cocktails, including their signature drinks ($18) that
are categorised by colour.
Drinks can also be thrown back at SocialHaus 9 (11 Yong Siak St, +65 6557
0286, www.facebook.com/socialhaus.sg), an elevated watering hole mixing up New
American bites with happy-hour deals, or a few doors down at Open Door Policy 10
(19 Yong Siak St, +65 6221 9307, odpsingapore.com) where they offer a Modern
European menu along with an extended wine list. Prefer to stick with Eastern fare?
Visit Por Kee Eating House 11 (#01-02, 69 Seng Poh Ln, +65 6221 0582) and tr y
the home-made tofu with mushrooms and baby kailan with garlic.
17
Kepp
Sentosa
W
al
k
3
wa
te
Ga
Tanjong Beach Club
3
4
4
Art
ille
ry
h view
Beac
Sentosa Luge
Rd
55 77
1
1
so
lo
Si
Go here for... Family fun, beach adventures and resor ts
Garden Ave
Im
bi
ah
Im
bia
h Rd
22
Imbiah Rd
Sentosa
Rd
iah
Imb
Av
e
Siloso
Beach
View
6
8
Resorts World
Sentosa
Some of Singapore’s most popular attractions can be found at the island’s southern
tip. The area comprises the district of Telok Blangah dominated by Mount Faber, Keppel
Harbour and the island resort of Sentosa. There’s also the HarbourFront precinct, which
houses the country’s largest mall (Vivocity), biggest nightspot complex (St James Power
Station) and only cable car system, as well as the Singapore Cruise Centre. Just 15
minutes from the city centre, it’s all easily accessible by bus and MRT. Once a fishing
village, Sentosa served as a British military fortress from the 1800s to 1967 when it
was known as Pulau Blakang Mati (‘Island of Death from Behind’). In 1968 it became a
holiday resort, and now has pristine man-made beaches.
The giant hotel-and-entertainment hub of Resorts World Sentosa 1
(8 Sentosa Gateway.+65 6577 8888, www.rwsentosa.com) has an oceanarium,
water park, Universal Studios’ rollercoasters, casino, swanky boutique shops,
restaurants and six on-site hotels.
Underwater World 2 (80 Siloso Rd. +65 6275 0030, www.underwaterworld.com.
sg), is still a big draw after two decades in business. The highlight is the travelator ride,
which leads you through an 83m tunnel while sharks, rays, eels and schools of fish
swim above. Sentosa Luge 3 (Imbiah Lookout, +65 6274 0472, www.sentosa.com.sg)
is also still worth a visit: a furious toboggan ride down a long, paved, curving track.
Adventure-seekers can feel the rush of skydiving a few metres off the ground at
18
Underwater World
Wave House
iFly 4 (43 Siloso Beach Walk, +65 571 0000, www.iflysingapore.com), the world’s
largest indoor skydiving wind tunnel. Nearby, Wave House 5 (36 Siloso Beach Walk,
+65 6377 3113, www.wavehousesentosa.com) offers a hugely popular simulated
sur f experience that entices bikini-clad booty-shakings with its lively DJ bar action,
lo-fi poolside revelry and the chance to shoot the curl Singapore-style.
Tanjong Beach Club 6 (120 Tanjong Beach Walk, +65 6270 1355, www.
tanjongbeachclub.com) is a hip hangout. Take a dip in the pool, sip the signature
cocktails while grooving to the DJ on deck, or visit Dining Room for the all-day menu.
At the other end of the beach, Mambo 7 (40 Siloso Beach Walk, +65 6276 6270,
mambo.sg), is another beachfront bar, serving barbecue bites on the weekends and
cocktails at the swim-up bar.
The W Hotel 8 (21 Ocean Way, +65 6808 7288, www.wsingaporesentosacove.
com) in Sentosa Cove was one of the most hotly anticipated openings of 2012, and
is now luring people in to drink cocktails and enjoy local DJs at Woo Bar or sink their
teeth into prime beef at chic steak grill Skirt.
19
Sentosa Gateway
Area guide
ah
Rd
Ganges Ave
vel
Sw
St
Dr
Rd
hr
Ba
St
ng
66
aik
on
gS
Ke
St
Sia
ng
an
ay
r
llu
St
Rd
d
eR
4
4
d
il R
Ne
t
8
8
10
10
7
7
99
kin
gS
5
ub
n
dL
n
St
ub
Cl
Cl
oL
Ers
St
d
ring yer R
Sp
A
ta
Kre
h
me
Ann
Sag
Sp
rin
Dining options on these streets
cover top Italian picks, tapas, oyster
bars and classic French fare. Visit
quirky bar/art space 83 on Club Street
8 (83 Club St, +65 6220 4083,
83clubstreet.com) for great happyhour specials. B28 9 (28 Ann Siang
Rd, +65 9026 3466, btwentyeight.
com) is a whisky bar in the basement
of the Club Hotel; or enjoy it all from
above at La Terraza Rooftop Bar 10
(12 Ann Siang Rd, +65 6221 1694,
screeningroom.com.sg).
t
oha
dg
Rd
St
Around Chinatown’s most touristy central area – Pagoda Street, Temple Street and
Smith Street – are shops filled with Chinese ‘antiques’ and all manner of Buddhashaped merchandise, from car ornaments to plastic radios. Another local curiosity are
the stores that specialise in paper money, clothes and even paper cars, all burned as
offerings on auspicious days for deceased ancestors. Housed within three restored
shophouses, the 15 galleries at Chinatown Heritage Centre 1 (48 Pagoda St, +65
t
sS
d
St
33
22
S M
da
eR
mp
o
Ka
ith
go
a
d
Chinatown & Ann Siang
Hill
Ka
M
ll R
we
ax
20
d
ins
21
R
nW d
ay
u
St
Sm
Pa
Bri
on
Ho
n
hL
Po
t
tS
at
gW
En
n
ua
Ch
ga
nu
ru
ah
g
En
ng
Se
an
Gu
era
ros
1
So
uth
in
Ch
Rd
ng
ee
Rd
Tre
B
ng
Tio
Kim Pong Rd
Kim Tian Rd
Lim Liak St
d
Outram R
Zion Rd
Tiong Bahru St
ock
Chinatown’s Ann Siang Hill and
Club Street 5 feature a mixture of
old shophouses nestled among the
9980, woodsinthebooks.sg) for a
skyscrapers of Singapore’s financial
beautifully curated range of comic
district. This is also where you will find
books, graphic novels and picture books
Ch
many of the city’s quirky boutiques and
urc for all ages. Front Row 7 (5 Ann Siang
h
trendy restaurants. Check out Woods
+65 6224 5501, frontrowsingapore.
SRd,
t com) is a fashion-art concept store
in the Books 6 (58 Club St, +65 6222
that often hosts exhibitions by young
contemporary artists.
C
Chinatowns traditionally spring up in cities where the Chinese are a minority. So
it’s strange that Singapore, a countr
1 y where the Chinese outnumber all other races
Rdreasons date back to colonial times, when Sir
by far, should also have one. The
8
oh
11
P
g influx of immigrants based on their cultural origins.
Stamford Raffles organised the
n
e
5
3
He gave the Chinese one ofS the largest
portions
of land – just southwest of the
Singapore River – realising that they comprised
many dialect groups, each of whom
Rd
7
h After World War II, Chinatown became
2
would need their own
separate enclave.
Po
10
g
n
a centre for political agitation and rioting.
Gradually the area was redeveloped:
Tio
4 6out and into housing
families were moved
estates
9
Rd in other parts of the island, and
St
e
e
the ‘big clean up’ ofanslums
and crime improved
conditions. Several old shophouses
Sw
n
yY
i
a
remain,
although
some
have
been
gaudily restored.
h
C
Ch
tM
83 on Club
Street
For stalls dishing out grub, wander
down Chinatown Food Street 3 (also
known as Smith Street), and dine alfresco
on traditional dishes like fishball noodles
and char kway teow (a noodle dish fried
with fresh cockles). Not enough variety?
Head down to Maxwell Food Centre 4
(1 Kadayanallur St), which hosts over 100
stalls, including Tian Tian Chicken Rice
(stall 10), considered by some to have the
best chicken rice in Singapore.
Ha
Chinatown
Tian Tian
Chicken Rice
Es
ng
Se
Go here for... Chinese culture, antiques and food, stylish shopping
and the city’s largest Hindu temple
Hill
Chinatown & Ann Siang Hill
Kim
iv
6325 2878, chinatownheritagecentre.
sg) showcase the rich history of the
neighbourhood. Highlights include rooms
replicating coolies’ living quarters and
clan associations’ activity halls. Located
at the end of the same street is the
city’s largest and oldest Hindu temple,
Sri Mariamman Temple 2 (244 South
Bridge Rd, +65 6223 4064). Completed
in 1863, it’s famous for its staggeringly
detailed gopuram (tower gateway). It is
also the site of Theemidhi, a remarkable
fire-walking ceremony held a week before
the Hindu festival Deepavali, usually in
October.
on
e
ll
Va
r
e
5
River Vall
ey Rd
Area guide
d
yR
Rd
M
C
h
so
n
Du
e
ss
ar
ne
n
Te
Rd
sa
r
se
Ln
d
rR
so
We
ld
Rd
Rd
Rd
88
ra
k
Rd
n
my
Be
sa
pe
r
sa
Jin
ck
era
Rd
r
on
g
Ka
mp
itty
Up
op
77 St
66
Prince of Wales
Rd
ar
ei Rd
Be
po
r
Ka
Rd
go
on
ran
Se
Rd
St
Ch
aw
Sung
Ve
d
Di
ive
2
2
Ro
Ba wel
Hin boo l Rd
do Ln
oR
d
Cuff R
Du
nl
Rd
Ln
Jin
rts
Rd
de
9
Cl
efo
rd
Co
ur
d
se
R
an
Ch
55
ffa 11
lo
Rd
Be
s
Bid
St
ge
While in this cultural enclave, don’t pass up theriaopportunity
to dine. Race
rid
o
hB
ct
ort
Course Road is filled with some of the neighbourhood’s
options, including
Vi
Nbest
2
the famous Banana Leaf Apolo 3 (54-58 Race Course Rd, +65 6293 8682,
thebananaleafapolo.com), often tied with Muthu’s Curry 4 (138
Race Course Rd,
1
St fish-head
+65 6392 1722, www.muthuscurr y.com) down the block for the best
ng
ha
Pa
R
curr y. For something
+65
6297 8422,
Be different,
oc Mustard 5 (32 Race4 Course Rd,
y
nc
www.mustardsingapore.com)
ser ves Punjabi and Bengali
fare;dad Strt 2y the prawn creamy
wa
7
Ba 6
oo curr y hser
gh
o
h
Op ti Ln Ha
Ba 3
ved
in
a
green
coconut.
ji
r
7 le
hi
ig
La 9
r
n
5
Jin
an
lt
Su
t
n
Ka
lS
wa
g
an
Ali
Pin
ate
nG
lta
Su
t
rS
ha
da
t
tS
ca
St
us
M
ab
se
p
St
d
Ar
dR
n
Pr
in
8
1 Rd
L
Rd
e
8
ll H
Rd
a
ink will find the backpacker crew, checking
Be
Dunlop Road is where you
in at places
co
Ni and
like the InnCrowd
3 Mid 6 (73 Dunlop St, +65 6296 9169, www.the-inncrowd.com)
Prince of Walesdle7 (101 Dunlop St, +65 6299 0130, www.pow.com.sg) – which
doubles as a laidback
Rd watering hole and live music venue. In recent years, more
upmarket accommodation has popped up in these parts, including Wanderlust 8
(2 Dickson Rd, +65 6396 3322, wanderlusthotel.com), a trendy boutique hotel with
themed rooms.
ch
St
St
St
e
Rd
idg
wa
y
23
Be
ac
h
Br
or
rth
6
No
St
ee
n
Qu
5
ia
o
er
lo
sa 4
h
Rd
Blvd
Ba
at
as
Repu
blic
Br
Be
nc
oo
le
n
St
10
ir Rd
Oph
ey Rd
e
Rd
um
Rd
ce
nt
mb
u
44
Bu
Under colonial rule, the area east of the Singapore River was designated a
settlement for Indian immigrants and workers, a legacy that has been enshrined in
the district’s more recent name, Little India. Today, it’s one of the most distinctive
places in Singapore, a bustling, chaotic, sensor y overload of people, shops, traffic,
colours, smells and tastes, and largely unchanged for decades. To some extent it
has retained its status as cultural centre for the Indian and Hindu community in
Singapore – the majority are Tamils from South India – but there are other races and
religions in Little India. A day spent wandering
its streets will confirm how rich and
O
har area is.
fascinating thisrcsmall
River Vall
ng
Le
d
rla
n
Sco
tts
ah
22
Ke
Cr
d
Ra
be
Rd
Tim
PenTekka
Stroll by the streets that surround
an RMarket 1 (664 Buffalo Rd), an
unmissable landmark that has been a go-tog community
resource – wet market,
d
hawker
Rd custom tailor shops, Indian fashion boutiques – for over half a
gecentre,
an
Gr
centur y. To pick up just about anything you could be looking for, Mustafa
Centre 2 (145 Syed Alwi Rd, +65 6295 5855, www.mustafa.com.sg) is open
24-hours, offering 14,000 sqm of bargains, not to mention a rooftop restaurant
and supermarket. It’s a treasure trove of discount shopping, carr ying ever ything
from skincare and electronics to sari fabrics and luggage.
on
Jin
nR
be
Ki
Jin
so
No
rth
Ra
kit
ter
33
ce
Bu
Rd
ur
e
Co
mp
s
hir
Pa
Ro
Little India
Ha
Mustafa Centre
Bo
Dedicated to the goddess Kali,
Little India’s most popular Hindu
temple was constructed by Bengali
immigrants and completed in 1881,
but like all such monuments in
Singapore has gone through many
extensions and renovations over
the years.
141 Serangoon Rd. +65 6295 4538.
www.sriveeramakaliamman.com. 9
Sri Veeramakaliamman
ver
Rd
Sc
Flyo
ct
ott
W
ns Rd
Steve
ton
d
sR
Vi
New
Pe
Rd
R
Rd
n
Rd
o
Golmhere for... Indian food and culture, 24-hour shopping,
Ba
backpacker nightlife and Hindu temples
igh
Little India
Se
ra
ng
oo
n
Rd
Don’t miss ...
Sri Veeramakaliamman
Temple
d
lH
Area guide
Moulmein Rd
son
Thom
l
ra
Rd
ton
earn
New
h Rd
Dun
Rd
Rd
yover
t Tim
a
R
ver
Ro
be
Jin
d
uR
mb
ap
or
R
d
Rd
Rd
er
d
on
R
Ka
mp
on
gK
Be
sa
r
Jin
an
d
ak
R
ar
es
ria
St
to
Vic
N
M
or
Ba
Op
Rd
hir
4
ti
6
Ln Ha
ji
Rd
7
La 9
ne
1
Rd
wa
Nic
oll
Hi
gh
Be
ac
y
h
rth
6
6
St
ia
St
Rd
or
le
No
Qu
ee
4
sa 4
h
Rd
n
at
St
er
lo
o
St
idd
ch
1
Lin 1
k
e
3
3
7
7 oole
n
Br
idg
St
se
p
in
St
Pr
Be
Ba
W
as
Ro
nc
le
n
d
Dr
nade
Raffles
Espla
t
uS
an
ng
g
St
2M
me
d
eR
dg
Bri
6 C
uth
b
8
10
7
St
k
Sia
Ers
So
dL
n
St
lub
Ann
K
Sp
Sag
oL
n
Sp
rin
g
St
oha
Clu
Ke
on
gS
aik
St
3
da
Tre
on
mp
Ka
St
Rd
ith
go
5
25
4
e
Ba
g
n
ss
Pa
Av
hr
u
St
d
eR
Swe
Chin
Cro
1
Sm
nt
n
Rd
o
Ho
Rd
8
Be
8
8
nc
oo
Delta Rd
g
hru
En
Ba
Dr
ng
Lower
Tio
d
Outram R
Zion Rd
8
t
lta
Rd
The neighbourhood
is not all about what’s shiny and new however. Buddhist
Ha
elo
temple, Kwan Im vThong
ck Hood Cho Temple 7 (178 Waterloo St, +65 6337 3965),
built in 1884, was dedicated
Rd to the goddess of mercy and used as a refuge for the
Rd
e sick and destitute during the Japanese occupation. Today, hundreds of worshippers
e
flood in every day. Further down the same street lies Sri Krishnan Temple 8 (152
Sw
Ch began in 1870 as a banyan tree with a few
Waterloo St, +65 6337 7957). What
in
urc
hS
Ch
t a vivid, colour ful temple dedicated to Lord
deities placed next to it has evolved into
Krishna, the supreme god in Hindu cosmology.
hL
ower De
Rd
Showered with architectural awards before it had even opened, the National
Library 6 (100 Victoria St, +65 6332 3255, www.nlb.gov.sg) is designed1 as two
towers, linked by walkways and walled almost entirely with glass. The spacious
reference section on the upper floors offers great views across the city. There are
some small exhibition spaces, and it also houses the Drama Centre.
Po
n
ua
Rd
Rd
Bras Basah
tS
at
Ch
so
n
eld
St
Rd
ng
n
a
Gu
er
n
Hill
ng
Se
gW
En
nd
so
Pe
r
Rd
efo
rd
Bid
Rd
so
n
Pa
ter
Rd
my
rW
St
Tangli
n
sa
pe
b
Ara
Se
Kim Pong Rd
Kim Tian Rd
ay
Ch
era
Rd
white building with two wings and long verandahs that was revamped in the early
1990s when there was a policy of converting old colonial buildings into public
museums. SAM at 8Q 5 (8 Queen St, +65 6332 3222, singaporeartmuseum.sg)
Ra
f fle
is the Singapore Art Museum’s newest contemporary art extension, showcasing
s
modern installation works, video and photography, per formance art and sound art. Blv
Kim
On the western end of Bugis is Sculpture Square 3 (155 Middle Rd, +65 6333
Bahru St
1055, www.sculpturesq.com.sg), a former Methodist church converted into Tiong
a gallery
specialising in contemporary sculpture and installations. Singapore Art Museum
Lim Liak St
4 (71 Bras Basah Rd, +65 6332 3222, singaporeartmuseum.sg) is the country’s
1
Rd
h
largest visual arts gallery. It’s housed in a former Catholic boys’ school, a striking
11
Po
ng
Jin B
Se
5
3
ukit
Rd
Mer
oh
ah
10
gP
24
n
Tio
9
itty
5
5
ey Rd
4 6
St
n
Ya
Ve
Ch
g
an
dR
d
Pena
ng Rd
River Vall
7
2
Ro
Ba well
Hin boo Rd
do Ln
oR
d
2
Street vendor on
Waterloo St
Rd
2
Ln
Up
nlo
p
7 St
6
ei Rd
har
Bugis Street 1 now houses
to 800 shops, making it the largest shopping
Alexaclose
ndra Rd
street in Singapore. The shophouses adjacent to New Bugis
Street
have become
Gang
es Ave
Bugis Village, full of boutiques selling low-price clothes and accessories. Keep
heading up pedestrianised Albert Street and you’ll hit Sim Lim Square 2 (1 Rochor
Canal Rd, +65 6338 3859, simlimsquare.com.sg), a legendary treasure trove of
cheap electronics and the latest gizmos from Japan and South Korea. But buyer
beware, Sim Lim is a mixed bag of sellers, so keep an eye out for shop accreditation
and always compare prices at multiple retailers before you buy.
Ln
Di
ck
Sung
Orc
ey
all
rV
e
The Bras Basah quarter is dominated by the raucous
Riv red-light memory of
Bugis. Once Singapore’s most colour ful and infamous neighbourhood, Bugis was
rehabilitated in the ’80s into its modern version, with souvenir shops, well priced
electronics and museums.
se
rts
Rd
Cuff Rd
ffa 1
lo
Rd
Singapore Art Museum
Rd
Jin
5
Kwan Im ThongSt
ive
Hood Cho Temple
Cl
Br
Souvenirs on Bugis Street
3
Du
Grange Rd
ur
e
d
Rd
Co
Pin
Grange
Bu
ce
Le
Rd
tts
R
ah
4
nt
Jin
in
gl
Tan
Rd
Rd
Ra
Se
ran
go
d
Tim
Sc o
Rd
Ki
be
rla
nd
d
kit
Bu
ny R
ier
ire
No
rth
um
mp
r se
Ha
sh
Go here for... Souvenirs and electronics, Singapore Ar t Museum
Na and colour ful temples
Holland Rd
p
Be
sa
r
Flyo
Sc
Jin
B
ton
eC
ou
Clu
Bras Basah & Bugis
s
ott
ct
ns Rd
Steve
Area guide
New
Rd
Vi
Rd
Ch
ens
Ra
c
Stev
e
liv
St
Du
7
C
itty
op
n
St
Be
rW
Sultan
Mosque
el
Rd
d
Rd
8
Jin
lt
Su
Jin
an
2
Jin
Be
sa
r
ei Rd
Pe
Sung
my
R
d
ra
k
6
sa
Rd
pe
so
Haji Lane 5 is a rich
hunting ground for offbeat
designer labels, vintage
clothing stores and a
handful of vibrant bars
and cafés. WanderWonder
6 (65A Haji Ln, +65 6396
8621, www.facebook.com/
wanderwondersg) is a hip
local menswear label aimed
at the modern gentleman;
Threadbare & Squirrel 7
(43 Haji Ln, +65 6396 6738,
www.threadbareandsquirrel.
com) has a cleverly curated
selection of clothing and
accessories; and Pluck
8
d
e R 6396
(31-33St Haji Ln, g+65
d
a
i
i
r
4048,
has
or pluck.com.sg)
h B and unique
homeict accessories
ort
V
N
jewellery.
sa
r
Ch
Up
Di
ck
nl
d
ap
or
R
d
era
Rd
Rd
Ve
Cuff R
Jin
Se
Go here for... Malay/Arab culture and restaurants, carpetB shops,
u
hip clothing stores, and the Malay Heritage Centre ffal 1
o
Rd
Don’t miss...
Haji Lane
Ka
mp
on
gK
go
on
5
im
ah
Ro
Ba wel
Hin boo l Rd
do Ln
oR
d
Rd
3
ran
Kampong
Glam
T
Rd
Ra
ce
kit
Bu
Area guide
e
Ln
rR
d
hir
N
mp
s
or
th
Co
ur
se
Ch
Rd
an
de
e
Ha
Pi
St
ch
Rd
idg
e
Br
rth
ch
a
Be
Rd
Stop by BluJaz Cafe 9 (11 Bali Ln,
+65 6292 3800, www.blujaz.net) for
some live tunes: the three floors are full
of the warm, rootsy, experimental flavour.
Around the corner, the same owners have
branched out into Mexican flavours with
Piedra Negra 10 (241 Beach Rd, +65
6291 1297), also attracting bustling
crowds and often offering live Latin beats.
27
y
St
ia
48
22
Blvd
No
St
en
ha
Pa
ir Rd
Qu
e
or
St
o
rlo
at
e
ct
St
n
ol
e
W
Vi
St
p
se
Pr
in
Be
nc
o
10
10
St
ng
t
La 9
ne
St
lS
d
da
gh
3
Ba 3
77
5
Oph
R
6
d
wa
h
Rd
ji
rR
ate
nG
lta
Su
St
ar
ah
t
nd
tS
Ka
ca
us
M
sa 4
le
and; Café Le Caire 3 (#01-01, 39 Arab
St, +65 6292 0979, www.cafelecaire.
com) an exotic tea-drinking hangout that
ser ves a decent lamb shawarma roll;
or Going Om 4 (63 Haji Ln, +65 6396
3592, www.going-om.com), one of the
few local establishments ser ving booze
and something of a spiritual haven for the
city’s minuscule hippy community set up
along Haji Lane.
66
Ln Ha
St
Ba
idd
hi
ti
ab
26
as
M
44
Ba
Op
Ar
3
Piedra Negra
Ali
ng
na
Br
c
ho
o
7 ole Fitting wellr with the assortment of
sellers, Arab-influenced
Rd Stop bylounges
ncarpet
8
also
fill1
these streets.
places
L
likein
Alaturka 2 (16 Bussorah St, +65
k alaturka.com.sg) for kebabs
6294 0304,
nc
Southeast of Little India is an enclave of streets and landmarks between Rochor
Canal Road and Beach Road that is the Malay/Arab area of Singapore. It is still
referred to by its original name, Kampong Glam (pronounced “Kampong Glum”), named
after the gelam trees that grew in the area, or the Gelam tribe, or both. It was designated
by Raffles as the site for Sultan Husain Shah’s palace after the Sultan had relinquished
the island to the Brits, and soon became a gathering point for Malays, Indonesians
from Java and merchants from the Middle East. The street names reflect this: you’ll find
yourself wandering down Arab Street, Kandahar Street and Baghdad Street.
Malay Heritage Centre 1 (85 Sultan Gate, +65 6391 0450, www.malayheritage.
org.sg) tells the stor y of Singapore’s place in the Malay world. It has a fair number
of historical objects and, a couple of dubious murals aside, the ground-floor
displays successfully evoke the complex political, cultural and religious issues that
shaped the Malay experience until the end of the 19th centur y. Upstairs is patchier,
perhaps because the 20th-centur y stor y is more sanitised and politically selective.
Nevertheless, there’s enough to give the visitor a valuable perspective on Singapore’s
most significant ‘minority’ ethnic group. Ask about cultural per formances on
Wednesday and Sundays.
Ro
Be
Haji Lane
11
Kampong Glam
sa
r
Le
mb
uR
d
Be
Jin
d
rR
Ka
d
po
rR
d
ng
d
Pe
ra
kR
St
Rd
ac
h
go
Rd
b
ge
Brid
Rd
Rd
Bayfront Ave
ECP
tA
on
lvd
Gardens
by the Bay
55
Ma
Ma
rin
6
6
rin
aM
aG
ard
en
Sh
Rd
elta
Lower D
ay
st
oa
tC
es
W
Hi
w
gh
en
s
Dr
Im
bia
h Rd
aB
3
3
all
Ro
bin
so
nR
ton
d
Wa
y
ell
axw
ra R
d
rin
rS
allu
an
ay
Kad
M
and
Ma
t
Gardens by the Bay
yfr
4
g Rd
St
Sou
Ke
ing
4
Ln
St 5
8
10
7
9
Sian
Spr
il Rd
Ne
Ln
4
oham
ed
6 Clu
th
ik
g Sa
on
Sago
St
2M
St
ve
da
ine
Ersk
Alex
Av
e
oll
H
Nic
Dr
u
hr
Ba
g
t
uS
on
mp
ss
Pa
an
3
gg
St
Tren
Ka
ith
Ann
Av
e
Marina Bay
St
St
4
2
2
Cro
1
Sm
Rd
Rd
d
ment R
Canton
ve
yA
wa
te
Ga
Art
ille
ry
h vie
Beac
3
Rd
7
igh
wa
y
Be
r
ade D
Esplan
Delta Rd
Lower
d
lta
R
8
3
Rd
Swee
St
ring er Rd
Sp
a Ay
Kret
Lower De
Rd
n
so
urc
h
b
er
Rd
The new large-scale modern garden next to Marina Bay Sands, Gardens by
the Bay 5 (18 Marina Gardens Dr, +65 6420 6848, www.gardensbythebay.org.
sg) opened mid-2012 and owes its futuristic look to a grove of ‘Supertrees’ – giant
vertical gardens, planted in man-made palms up to 16 storeys in height. These mimic
their organic cousins by harnessing solar energy and collecting rainwater for irrigation
and fountain displays. Walkways lead to the largest Supertree, a 50m-high behemoth
complete with a Swiss Family Robinson-style restaurant in its upper branches. There
are also several themed gardens showcasing the best tropical horticulture and garden
artistry, along with two armadillo-shaped conservatories – the Flower Dome and the
Cloud Forest, veiled in mist and containing the world’s largest indoor waterfall.
The Marina Barrage 6 (260 Marina Way, +65 6514 5959) was built across the
mouth of the Marina Channel in 2008 to create Singapore’s 15th reservoir, the
first in the heart of the city. On weekends, expect to see kayakers, windsur fers,
dragonboaters, as well as picnickers on the grass.
1
o
os
Sil
5
r
Jin
St
idg
e
St
ct
or
ia
No
rth
Vi
Br
St
p
se
Pr
in
St
n
le
St
nc
oo
o
St
Hill
Raffles Ave
Clu
nd
St
He
n
ua
Ch
W
alk
lvd
Ba
dr
an
Rd
an
Sentosa Gateway
Garden Ave
Imbiah Rd
Im
bia
h
Marina Bay
sB
Keppel Rd
st High
way
28
c
bli
pu
Re
Those not interested in cocktails or shopping can visit the ArtScience Museum
4 (10 Bayfront Ave, +65 6688 8868). Some say it looks like a hand, others a lotus:
everyone agrees that the Moshe Safdie-designed museum’s striking silhouette is
instantly recognisable. The galleries set inside the protruding ‘petals’ host large-scale
touring exhibitions that bridge art and science.
Coa
2
sa
Be
Ka
mp
o
Jin
No
rth
um
Co
be
urs
rla
eR
nd
nd
d
Rd
e
Ch
a
Bid
e
Pa
te r
d
Tangl
in R
Rd
f fle
Ch
St
h Ln
Gu
St
n
Chi
h
Po
in
Ch
ck
Rd
rah
Coa
In theest1970s,
land reclamation was carried out at Marina Bay, forming what has
st H
ig
Rd
ay
become todayhwone
of the most architecturally exciting parts
of town, hosting new
n
so
er
mega-developments including a hotel-and-entertainment
hub, a futuristic garden
nd
He
and a state-of-the-art
cruise
centre.
Wes
t
Launched in 2010, the enormous Marina Bay Sands 3 (1 Bayfront Ave, +65
6688 8868, www.marinabaysands.com) became an iconic part of the Singapore
skyline before construction was even complete. That’s largely due to the
extraordinary SkyPark, which looks like a ship sitting atop three high-rise buildings –
the view from its 200m-high observation deck is just as surreal.
Signs point the way
Rd
iah
Imb
to a glitzy mall and casino complete with a 7-tonne
Swarovski chandelier.
y
wa
igh
ll H
co
Ni
ru
on
5
ng
Tio
ee
Sw
Me
Marina Bay Sands
Telo domes of Singapore’s main
Down on the water front sit the dramatic, spiky durian
kB
lan
ga 1 (1 Esplanade Dr, +65
per forming arts centre, Esplanade – Theatres on the Bay
hR
d/
Ke
6828 8377, www.esplanade.com). It has its own mall, of course,
pp and adjacent is the
e
Via
open-air hawker centre Makansutra Gluttons Bay – a collection of lthe
du best food stalls
c
handpicked from around the city. Pedestrianised Marina Promenade, theading east of
the bay behind the giant 165m observation wheel Singapore Flyer 2 (30 Raffles Ave,
+65 6333 3311, www.singaporeflyer.com), is ideal for a stroll or a waterside picnic.
St
h Rd
ac
Be
Ra
Ale
x
ah
gB
Ho
11
att
gW
4 6
St
n
Ya
Po
En
7
g
Rd
ng
ay
Ch
2
En
1
oh
P
ng
9
kit
ng
ha
Pa
2
d St
8
Blvd
Tion
Lim Liak St
Outram Rd
Zion Rd
Tiong Bahru St
Bu
da
gh
Ba 3
10
ir Rd
velo
10
Jin
7
i La
ne9
Singapore Flyer
Ha
Se
h
6
i Ln H
aj
Rd
1
Se
Mera
hir
1
Kim Pong Rd
ukit
W
6
Ganges Ave
Kim Tian Rd
Jin B
4
Bat
Op
Rd
Oph
a
Rd
or
Repu
blic
le
l St
idd
wa
M
Ali
ay
n
Alexandra Rd
5
lta
ns
w
3
Lin 1
k
Rd
ts
ch
oo
len
Esplanade - Theatres
on the Bay
Rd
Qu
ee
sa 4
h
Rd
Ro
nc
7
5
ng
Por
e
Av
Ba
y Rd
Se
P
n
dow
as
River Valle
Kim
down
or ts
Be
8
St
Br
ey
Rd
Brid
1
ab
Ar
Rd
th
ll
Va
ge
th
Nor
te
n Ga
hard
Rd
ng Rd
al
er
St
St
ar
ah
t St
ca
us
M
Orc
Grange Rd
Riv
ria
to
Vic
lta
Su
we
2
Pena
Grange
ei Rd
nd
Go here for... Amazing architecture and mind-blowing tourist attactions,
Co
m
m to the world’s largest obser vation wheel
from a ver tical garden
on
d
Ka
g
Tan
Sung
my
R
8
ng
na
d
lin R
sa
Rd
Su
so
nR
d
Rd
Hardi
Loewen
8 4
Ve
era
Rd
We
ld
St
ng Rd
Rd
pe
r
Pi
3
Dem
itty
ks
on
nlo
Rd
p
7 St
6
Du
29
g
lan
Gey
Jin
9
Ra
ce
Rd
1
ey
ps
2
ve
Cli
lo
Rd
Ch
Up
Dic
St
2
d
6
Cuff Rd
ffa 1
lo
Rd
ford
Dem
10
Rd
Ro
Ba well
Hin boo Rd
do Ln
oR
d
Jin
Marina Bay & Marina South
7
d
Ln
Ln
r
fo
aw
rR
rts
Rd
urs
e
en
pie
Co
3
Bu
Be
Na
Rd
5
ah
te
ce
Be
sa
r
Rd
Holland Rd
Rd
11
psey
ire
Tim
ts
d
Sco
t
Que
ens
way
sh
5
ey
be
mp
Kin
Ra
4
Cr
ps
Ro
Ha
it
Dem
er
k
Bu
hA
ve
lyov
Rd
alt
dR
Dempsey Rd
nF
d
we
Ho
llan
wto
d
sR
ott
Sc
ny R
on
Clu
Area guide
Co
mm
over
Se
ran
go
on
R
nd Fly
ap
As
er
Holla
ia
labu
Ke
at
Jin
rna
W
m
Jin Ru
an Wa
Qu
e
Ave
1
Tam
ah Sag
3
2
Holland
6
8
Jin Mer
4
ns
Steve
rM
7 5 ambo
ng
ut
Lor Lip9
a
Lo
A
ve
Sims A
Area guide
Katong & Joo Chiat
s Ave
Stil
g Rd
Geylan
Sim
l rd
Sims Dr
i Rd
Chang
Go here for... Peranakan architecture and multicultural flavours from
sweets and cakes to rich, fragrant laksa
5
g Rd
Geylan
Ave
ims
S
1
ard Rd
Guillem
Rd
ng
To Peranakan
g
n architecture
Te
D
be
d
gR
2
Rd
d
tR
2
6
6
Rd
77
st
oa
C
t
d
nR
ylo
an
On
hia
oC
lin
Jo
3
3
R
all
d
s
4
4
Ea
Katong & Joo Chiat
choose from and a wide selection of, you
guessed it, cider. One of the more recent
additions is Immigrants 7 (467 Joo Chiat
Rd, +65 8511 7322, www.immigrants-gastrobar.com), a laid-back gastropub offering
a long list of whiskies, along with a combo
of Peranakan and Eurasian bites.
ber
Rd
Lebar
Expy
Rd
5
Am
Embrace the rich heritage of the PeranaRd
kans with a visit to the Intan
t5en(69 Joo
atthe-intan.
b
t
n
Chiat Tce, +65 9338
2234,
ou
com), a privateMmuseum filled with
ever ything from intricately embroidered
wedding shoes to luxur y furniture.
As well as being a hostel and bistro, Betel Box 1 (200 Joo Chiat Rd, +65 6247 7340,
betelbox.com) organises historical and food tours of the neighbourhood.
Ce
aya
P
ang
g Rd
aton
ng K
The Katong district is a microcosm of what
n Singapore is all about. A melting pot
of cultures – from Malay and Indian to Chinese
Rd and Peranakan (descendants of
17th-centur y Chinese immigrants who married
local Malays) – this ’hood is heaping
with heritage. It’s home to the island’s largest remaining assemblage of Baba
architecture; you can wander down the streets for a look at traditional shophouses
outfitted with pastel patterned tiles and engraved statues of dragons, flowers and
crabs. Continue past sprawling bungalows put up by Singapore’s elite Peranakan and
Eurasian communities who were looking for what was then a seaside view. rsh
tte
30
rsh
Ma
Ma
ba
Local flavours can be sampled on your own as well. Early morning wanderers should
Moun2
stop by for a traditional kaya toast breakfast at Chin Mee Chin Confectionery
tbatte
(204 East Coast Rd, +65 6345 0419), which has been ser ving up sweets for over 80
n
years. Tian Tian Chicken Rice 3 (443 Joo Chiat Rd, +65 6345 9443), the already
famous Maxwell Food Court stall made even more famous by Anthony Bourdain, hosts
a properly air-conditioned, sit-down outlet here.
n
L
all
d
gR
Hai
Kall
328 Katong Laksa
nt
o
Tanj
ou
Don’t miss ...
Katong Laksa
R
ku
1
Du
88
Katong is famous for its laksa:
a dish of rice vermicelli, cockles, shrimps, fish cake and chilli paste in thick, coconut-based
broth. Four laksa stalls claim
to be the original and/or the
best. Pull up a plastic stool
at corner favourite 328 Katong
Laksa 4 (51 East Coast Rd, +65
9732 8163) and slurp up a bowl
of this fragrant noodle soup.
M
d
Dunman Rd
m
Te
n Rd
unma
For a sweet finish, stop by Awfully
Chocolate 8 (131 East Coast Rd, +65
6345 2190, www.awfullychocolate.
com), a chic cake shop passionate about
sinfully delicious truffles and cakes.
After relocating for the third time, always
staying within Joo Chiat, the Cider Pit 6
(328 Joo Chiat Rd, +65 6440 0504) is
open for business, with over 40 beers to
31
Shop
From designer fashion to quirky crafts, from malls to markets,
Singapore’s retail scene is the stuff of legend
ION Orchard
Dean & Deluca
H&M
Orchard
Central
Shop: Orchard Road
Singapore’s vibrant shopping drag is a wide one-way street flanked by tree-lined
walkways. The road’s name was derived from the nutmeg, pepper and fruit
plantations found here in the 19th centur y. The first malls appeared back in the
1970s, and it’s been non-stop development ever since.
As its tony name suggests, Knightsbridge (270 Orchard Rd, +65 6603 8888, www.
knightsbridge.com.sg) is a small, chic mall – part of the refurbished Grand Park
Orchard hotel – which takes quality seriously. Shoppers will find trendy clothing from
Topshop and Brooks Brothers, along with upscale watches and jeweller y from the
Hour Glass and Dickson. American apparel stores Tommy Hilfiger and a four-storey
spread from Abercrombie & Fitch complete the fashion-for ward line-up.
Another store not to miss on the is the popular Swedish fashion house, H&M’s
(1 Grange Road, +65 6235 1459, www.hm.com/sg) first Southeast Asian flagship
store spanning 3 floors. Just down the road, 313@Somerset (313 Orchard Rd,
+65 6496 9313, www.313somerset.com.sg) has one of the most eclectic fashion
spreads of any mall on Orchard Road. As well as Zara and Forever 21, the eightstorey complex has a smattering of local fashion retailers selling cute dresses and
more for a steal.
Some of the newer additions to this strip include ION Orchard (2 Orchard Turn, +65
6238 8228, www.ionorchard.com), which claims to be the ‘centre of gravity’ in the
Singapore retail scene – and with jaw-dropping frontage, cutting-edge design, and
more than 300 stores, it makes a good case. Apart from the obvious reason for
coming here – shopping – be sure to check out the extra bells and whistles. The
observation deck on the top two floors and the 493 sqm ION Art Level are both worth
a visit. Holding the title of ‘tallest vertical mall’ in Singapore, Orchard Central (181
Orchard Rd, +65 6238 1051, www.orchardcentral.com.sg) has a roof garden on levels
11 and 12, complete with waterfalls, bamboo groves and alfresco cocktail lounges.
Singapore’s first Dean & DeLuca outlet can also be found on the mall’s fourth floor.
Housed behind Mandarin Gallery’s (333A Orchard Rd, +65 6831 6363, www.
mandaringaller y.com.sg) sleek black façade are moe than 100 upmarket stores, all
attracting cashed-up young people who like to look sharp. Hip tenants include top
Singaporean designer Ashley Isham, new-to-market labels Bathing Ape and BenWu,
flagship stores Marc by Marc Jacobs, Montblanc and French jeweller Mauboussin.
32
33
Tax refunds
As a tourist in Singapore, you
can claim a refund on the 7 per
cent GST paid on purchases made
when you leave Singapore and
take your purchases home. Simply
spend SG$100 or more to qualify.
Refunds are deposited via the
Electronic Tourist Refund Scheme
(eTRS). Choose one credit/debit
card for all purchases; this
card will allow eTRS to retrieve
all of your purchase details at
the airport.
Raoul
1 At the shops
When shopping, use one credit/
debit card as your ‘token’ to
link up all your purchases.
Ask for your eTRS ticket and
original invoice/receipt before
leaving the shop.
Reckless
Ericka
2 Before departure
If you plan to check-in your
purchases, first apply for your
GST refund at the eTRS self-help
kiosk located at the departure
check-in hall (before departure
immigration) using your token or
eTRS Tickets. You will not be
entitled to a refund if you have
checked in your purchases prior
to the application.
Nic Wong’s Nicholas (#02-323 Marina
Square, 6 Raffles Blvd, +65 6337
3726, www.nicholasnic.com) regularly
has fashion critics sitting up and
taking notice. A previous winner of the
Mercedes Benz Asia Fashion Award,
his trademark asymmetrical creations
for men and women combine clean-cut
silhouettes with quirky, clever tailoring.
Hansel
Shop: For local design
Singapore’s fashion scene may not be as big compared to the giants of Milan and
Paris, but there’s a healthy number of world-class talents here. Admittedly, most have
to go abroad to achieve success and recognition, but their creations are available at
home, too. Here are a few names to look out for.
Baylene’s (#01-04 Stamford House, 39 Stamford Rd, +65 6336 9619, www.baylene.
com) eponymous label is a toddler in fashion terms at only a few years old, but her
use of charcoal, jet-black and stark white, graphic shapes and fine pleats is ver y
grown-up. She also has a hip menswear line, Baylene’s Boyfriend. Jo Soh is possibly
the freshest, most fun and unpredictable designer in Singapore. Her label Hansel
(www.ilovehansel.com) – named after her Jack Russell terrier – is a big hit in the
Western world, especially Australia. Her designs are quirky, vibrant and varied, often
inspired by trivial topics – candles, for instance, or pet camels.
34
Local designers Afton Chen, Diorelle
Sy, Ruth Marbun and Louis Koh are
the quartet behind cult label Reckless
Ericka (The Reckless Shop, #02-08/09
Orchard Central, 181 Orchard Rd, +65
6338 8246, www.recklessericka.com),
known for its edgy take on classic
silhouettes. FJ Benjamin launched Raoul
(www.raoul.com) in Singapore in 2002
as a men’s shirt label, branching out to
womenswear in response to the demand.
The homegrown brand has since added
accessories to its stable, including
bespoke bags and belts, with outlets in
Paragon, Raffles City and the Shoppes at
Marina Bay Sands.
3 At the eTRS self-help kiosk
Use your chosen credit/debit
card to retrieve all your
purchase details. Follow the
instructions on the eTRS selfhelp kiosk to apply for your GST
refund claims.
4 Collect your refund
Choose to have the refund
credited directly into your
credit card at the eTRS self-help
kiosk. You may board your plane
after completing your claims.
35
Green Singapore
Find some time to get lost in the great Singaporean outdoors
Henderson Waves
Mustafa Centre
Shop: Off the beaten track
Singapore’s malls are not all clumped up on Orchard Road and they also do not all
focus on fashion. Velocity at Novena (238 Thomson Rd, +65 6358 0700, www.
novenasquare.com) is a retail playground for sports fans. The bulk of this mall’s
tenants tend to athletes’ needs. There’s even an outdoor basketball court, with free
ball rental from the customer ser vice counter. More of a gadget geek than a sporty
jock? Head to Funan DigitaLife Mall (109 North Bridge Rd, +65 6336 8327, www.
funan.com.sg), with two specialist Apple outlets and plenty of shops selling digital
cameras, MP3 players and games. For just about anything else, stop by Mustafa
Centre (145 Syed Alwi Rd, +65 6295 5855, www.mustafa.com.sg) in Little India. A
local institution, Mustafa remains open around the clock, and offers 7,000 sqm of
bargains – not to mention a rooftop curr y restaurant and supermarket. It’s a treasure
trove of discount shopping, with ever ything from skincare and electronics to luggage
and souvenirs. Another after-dark option is Bugis Street (p24), the largest street
shopping location in Singapore. With a unique blend of retail concepts ranging from
chic and fashionable clothing and accessories to beauty ser vices like manicure
parlours and hair salons, this cobblestoned avenue is always buzzing.
Several special shopping events take place throughout the year as well. Get your fill of
local and original arts, crafts and live music at MAAD Pyjamas (www.facebook.com/
goMAAD), a market held one Friday ever y month at red dot design museum
(28 Maxwell Rd, +65 6327 8027, www.red-dot.sg/museum).
Don’t miss... Flea & Easy
In addition to reeling in big-name DJs, superclub Zouk (17 Jiak Kim St, www.
zoukclub.com) contributes to the fashion scene as well with the quarterly Flea
& Easy market, filled with pre-loved threads and knick-knacks every Sunday afternoon.
36
Pulau Ubin
1 Pulau Ubin
A reminder of old Singapore, this
boomerang-shaped island is covered
in trees and dotted with beaches and
character ful old Malay houses. The
best way to explore is by bike; bikes are
available 8am–6pm, and cost $3–$8
to rent. There are three cycling trails
(on paved and dirt roads), which lead
past old fruit and rubber plantations,
mangrove swamps, water-filled quarr y
pits and old wooden houses.
4 Sungei Buloh Wetlands
This wetland reserve of mangrove
swamps, ponds and secondary forest
is home to 140 species of birds; early
morning is the best time for birdwatching.
5 MacRitchie Reservoir
Singapore’s oldest and most popular nature park is a haven for joggers, families
and weekend strollers; occasional free
concerts are held on Sundays. In addition
to the reservoir, a popular attraction is
the TreeTop Walk, a 250-metre aerial freestanding suspension bridge spanning the
two highest points in MacRitchie.
2
Labrador Park & Henderson Waves
Labrador Park provides the perfect
seaside setting for a scenic skirmish with
wartime history. While Henderson Waves,
Singapore’s highest pedestrian bridge
spans Mount Faber Park, Telok Blangah
Hill, Hort Park and Kent Ridge Park.
6 The Botanic Gardens
During weekends, tours to its rainforest
patch are available, while concerts are
often held at Symphony Lake.
3 Bukit Timah Reserve
There are four walking trails to enjoy but
more interesting are the unpaved trails;
Route 3 (green) follows a winding forest
path, past caves used by Japanese
soldiers in World War II.
7 Gardens by the Bay
An oversized grove of man-made,
eco-friendly ‘Supertrees’ (huge vertical
gardens up to 16 storeys high) grow from
the Gardens adjacent to Marina Bay. For
more on Gardens by the Bay, see p29.
37
Eat
Discover why Singapore is one of the most exciting culinar y
destinations on the planet
The fine art
of ordering at a
hawker centre
No reservations
Find your table before you
order. Communal sharing of
the tables is usual here so
there’ll be no ‘table for
two’. You could have someone
from the group sit at the
table while others go to
order. Take note of your
table number before you head
to a food stall to order.
Decisions, decisions
Do a scout of the stalls to
see what takes your fancy
according to menu and price.
By all means order from more
than one stall. It’s not a
bad idea to check out the
cleanliness rating on the
front of each stall when
making your final selection.
Eat: Hawker food
The food is fantastic and made to order; prices are rock-bottom (a dish plus drink
costs about $5); and they’re noisy, vibrant and bustling warrens of local life – an
antidote to the sanitised, manicured side of Singapore. Hawker centres are a treasure
trove of taste sensations, gathering under one roof a world of cuisines – Chinese,
Malay, Peranakan, Indian, Eurasian.
Hawker centres have been around since the late 1950s, often attached to wet
markets selling fresh produce. But it wasn’t until the government clamped down
on street food (mainly for hygiene reasons) in the early 1980s that they became
ubiquitous, each neighbourhood having its own designated centre. There are around
120 hawker centres in Singapore, each sheltering anywhere from 50 to 100 or more
food stalls, often family-run and each specialising in a few dishes, drinks or desserts.
All stalls get a cleanliness rating (A to D) posted on the front of their stall.
Table sharing is the norm at a hawker centre. To reserve (or ‘chope’) a space, locals
sometimes place a packet of tissues on a seat while they’re ordering their food, but see
right for a detailed guide to hawker ettiquette.
38
Makan Sutra
Gluttons Bay
Top 5
Hawker centres
1 Makan Sutra Gluttons Bay
Offering a spectacular view of the Marina Bay
skyline, this open-air, moon-lit hawker centre
stocks a wide range of famous local treats
such as fried carrot cake, oyster omelette,
chilli crab and roti jala (lacy pancakes
served with curry). 8 Raffles Avenue.
2 Zion Riverside Food Centre
Slurp sweet Asian desserts at
Mohammed Sultan Rd Cheng Tng (stall
32) or rojak (spicy mixed vegetable and
fruit salad) at Clementi Brothers Rojak
(stall 21). Cnr Zion Rd & Ganges Ave.
The waiting game
To place your order, join
a queue and wait for the
cook’s assistant to call
you.
3 Tiong Bahru
After you spend time sniffing around the
fresh produce section, eat roast pork
from Tiong Bahru Roasted Pig Specialist
(stall 02-38) and fluffy pancakes from
Mian Jian Kueh, a few stalls down at No.
34. Cnr Lim Liak St & Seng Poh Rd.
Help yourself
If the stall bears the sign
‘self-service’ it means you
need to take your plate to
your table yourself. Other
stalls will ask for the
number of your table and
deliver the food to you.
Cash on delivery
If it is being delivered,
you pay when your food
arrives.
4 Chomp Chomp
Arguably one of Singapore’s finest is,
sadly, only accessible by car, but jump
in a cab and the tastiest grilled stingray
awaits (stall 1). In the evening, bag a
seat on the timber deck facing the road;
it’s cooler there. 20 Kensington Park Rd.
5 Maxwell Road
Recently renovated, the frantic hawker
centre in the heart of Chinatown threatens
sensory overload – the congee at Zhen
Zhen is superb. 11 South Bridge Rd.
39
Waku Ghin
Sky on 57
Pollen
L’Atelier
Eat: At the top end of town
Along with two casinos, a theme park and countless designer labels, Singapore’s
two integrated resorts introduced the city to a group of celebrity chefs – all keen to
get in on the action. Big-name restaurants at Marina Bay Sands (10 Bayfront Ave,
www.marinabaysands.com) include orange clog-sporting American red-head Mario
Batali’s Osteria Mozza (#B1-42/46, +65 6688 8522, www.osteriamozza.com), with a
mozzarella bar and drool-worthy Italian classics. Splurge on a lavish and memorable
modern Japanese dinner courtesy of Tetsuya Wakuda at Waku Ghin (Casino Lvl 2,
+65 6688 8507, www.marinabaysands.com), the acclaimed Australian chef’s only
outpost beyond his much-garlanded Sydney mothership; or tr y the Singapore-inspired
menu from the only local celeb, Justin Quek, at Sky on 57 (Sands Skypark, Tower 1,
Lvl 57, +65 6688 8857) with panoramic views. Resorts World Sentosa (8 Sentosa
Gateway, www.r wsentosa.com) has brought in Joël Robuchon – the world’s most
Michelin-star-studded chef – for not one but two outposts. Tr y the Discover y Menu at
L’Atelier (Lvl 1, Hotel Michael, Resorts World Sentosa, +65 6577 7888. www.joelrobuchon.net) for mouth-watering modern French creations.
40
Restaurant André
A more recent addition to the skyline, Gardens by the Bay has also introduced a
noteworthy dining establishment. British chef Jason Atherton’s Pollen (#01-09
Flower Dome, 18 Marina Gardens Dr, +65 6604 9988, www.pollen.com.sg) is set
up on two floors of the climate-controlled Flower Dome conser vator y and is ser ving
a Mediterranean menu. To take in fresh views of the city, book a table at Catalunya
(The Fullerton Pavilion, 82 Collyer Quay, +65 6534 0188, www.catalunya.sg), where
ceiling-high glass windows show off Marina Bay Sands and its neighbours, and
Spanish chef Alain Devahive Tolsa – who spent a decade at elBulli – introduces diners
to tapas-focused Catalan cuisine.
Free-standing, fine-dining establishments have popped up on the streets as well.
Perhaps the most buzzed about is the three-storey Chinatown shophouse where
chef André Chiang mixes food and art at Restaurant André (41 Bukit Pasoh Rd, +65
6534 8880, www.restaurantandre.com). His MO: Mediterranean accents and cooking
techniques picked up during his 14-year stint in France. Each dish in his set menu
resembles an artist’s palette, whether in the colours or shapes of per fectly partnered
ingredients, or the dishes on which each course is ser ved.
41
Kopi, kaya
toast & eggs
Black Pepper
Crab
Bak Kut Teh
Gayatri
Restaurant
Eat: Like a local
The staggering range of cuisines in Singapore is a result of its histor y as a magnet for
immigrants from all over Asia – the earliest form of fusion. The Indians, for instance,
thriftily plonked fish heads into saffron-tinged sauces and created the now iconic
fish-head curr y, a dish not found in Mother India, but available in Little India favourite
Gayatri Restaurant (122 Race Course Road, +65 6291 1011, www.gayatrirestaurant.
com), where you should learn from a local to eat using your hands.
Long Beach (www.longbeachseafood.com.sg) has been around for as long as anyone
can remember, and judging from the weekend crowds of multi-generational families at
their outlets around the city, it will remain for a long time to come. Concentrate on the
huge Sri Lankan chilli crabs or the famous black-pepper crab. Another favourite crab
shack, ser ving a similar menu, is No Signboard Seafood (www.nosignboardseafood.
com) – of the four locations in Singapore, the Geylang outlet has the most personality.
Combining the flavours of their Chinese and Malay heritage – and plundering from
Indian, Indonesian and Thai kitchens – the Peranakans blend fresh lemongrass, pandan
leaves, shrimp paste, coconut, tropical fruits and vegetables to create a richly layered
cuisine of stews, curries and elaborate desserts. The Blue Ginger Restaurant (97
Tanjong Pagar Rd, +65 6222 3928, www.theblueginger.com), a two-storey shophouse,
offers a menu filled with all of the classics. Chef Willin Low’s chic Wild Rocket (10a
Upper Wilkie Rd, +65 6339 9448, www.wildrocket.com.sg) restaurant gives classic
Singaporean dishes a modern, multi-textured twist. His laksa pesto linguine with tiger
prawns and quail eggs is a show-stealer. In recent years Duxton Hill, near Chinatown,
has been flooded with a wave of chic European-style bistros, but Wok & Barrel (13
Duxton Hill, +65 6220 0595) brings in local flavour. Reimagined stall classics (‘Wok’)
are paired with ciders, lagers and ales (‘Barrel’).
42
Don’t leave Singapore without trying...
1 Singapore chicken rice
A simple yet beloved dish of succulent poached chicken
paired with red chilli sauce and rice steamed with ginger,
garlic and chicken stock.
2 Coffee and
Straight ‘kopi’ or ‘teh’
milk. If this is too
(without sugar) or o
tea, Singapore style
contains both sugar and condensed
sweet for you, order it kosong
kosong (straight and bitter).
3 Kaya toast and eggs
This local breakfast favourite is a little like Singaporean
soldiers: delicious coconut egg jam that is spread on toast,
with accompanying soft-boiled eggs.
4 Black pepper crab
It’s difficult to go past the world-famous chilli crab, but
you’d be missing out if you didn’t also sample the black
pepper crab, butter crab or crab bee hoon.
5 Bak Kut Teh
While the direct translation of bak kut teh (meat bone
tea!) leaves a bit to be desired, this Chinese soup is
far more delicious than it sounds, consisting of meaty
pork ribs simmered in a delicious broth infused with star
anise, cinnamon, cloves, fennel and garlic.
43
Play
Key nightlife
Conceived in 2000, ZoukOut
(www.zoukout.com) is the
largest and one of the most
talked about outdoor dance
music festivals in Asia.
Every year in December,
people travel from around
the region to catch top DJs
playing live on Sentosa’s
beaches all night long.
There’s more to the bar and nighclub scene than just Singapore Slings
Zouk
Clubs
The Cufflink Club
Bars
Singapore’s watering holes are a mixed bag. Molly Malone’s (56 Circular Rd, +65
6536 2029, www.molly-malone.com), the city’s oldest Irish pub, is an after-work expat
institution in Boat Quay.
While live music venues are still lacking, stop by Crazy Elephant (#01-03 Clarke Quay,
3E River Valley Rd, +65 6337 7859, www.crazyelephant.com) for decent live rock and
blues; tr y Timbre @ The Substation (45 Armenian St, +65 6338 8030, www.timbre.
com.sg/), which features a different local act ever y night; or wander into BluJaz Cafe
(11 Bali Ln, +65 6292 3800, www.blujaz.net) for live jazz in the Arab Quarter.
At 282m, triangular-shaped outdoor 1-Altitude Gallery & Bar (Lvl 63, One Raffles
Place, 1 Raffles Pl, +65 6438 0410, www.1-altitude.com) is the self-proclaimed
‘highest alfresco bar in the world’. Recently renovated Loof (#03-07 Odeon Towers,
331 North Bridge Rd, +65 6338 8035, www.loof.com.sg) – Singapore’s first
standalone rooftop bar – is now ser ving South-East Asian-driven food and cocktails.
Tucked away cocktail bars have also been springing up. Alluringly semi-lit, 28
HongKong Street (28 Hongkong St, +65 6533 2001, www.28hks.com) gives off a
speakeasy vibe; while the sophisticated bar at the Cufflink Club (6 Jiak Chuan Rd,
www.thecufflinkclub.com) concentrates on shaking up the per fect tipple.
44
Stretching along the river front, Clarke
Quay is canopied by space-age
umbrellas. If you like to bar hop furiously
with ever ything under one roof, then
this part of town is for you. Zirca (Blk C
Clarke Quay, 3 River Valley Rd, +65 6305
6768, www.zirca.sg) hosts rambunctious
and riotous parties complete with
aerialists and fire-twirlers. Local and
guest DJs appeal to a younger set of
partiers. Wander nearby to Home Club
(#B1-01/06 The River walk, 20 Upper
Circular Rd, +65 6538 2928, www.
homeclub.com.sg) for the sounds of
indie-dance, left-field and dubstep.
At Marina Bay Sands (10 Bayfront Ave)
you’ll find Avalon (+65 6688 7448,
www.avalon.sg) with an ambitious,
state-of-the-art visual, sound and light
system; Pangaea (+65 6597 8325, www.
pangaea.sg), the ultra-lounge bottle-club
opened in 2011 with sleek, safari-themed
confines; and rooftop Ku De Ta (+65
6688 7688, www.kudeta.com.sg), a
classy club, bar and restaurant with its
roots in Seminyak, Bali.
Despite many nightclub openings (and
closings), Zouk (17 Jiak Kim St, +65
6738 2988, www.zoukclub.com) holds its
own. This 20+-years-young grande dame
continues to push the boundaries of
electronic dance music in Singapore.
45
International and regional
musicians representing a
wide range of genres gather
to perform at the Mosaic
Music Festival, held at
the Esplanade in March.
Later that same month,
the alfresco Timbre Rock &
Roots (www.rockandroots.
com.sg) takes place at the
Marina Promenade. At the
same location Beerfest Asia
(www.beerfestasia.com) in
June offers beer lovers
the chance to sample suds
from around the world with
live cover bands performing
on stage. A platform for
South-East Asian musicians,
Esplanade also sponsors
alternative music festival
Baybeats (www.baybeats.com)
mid year.
Singapore’s Formula 1 Night
Race (www.singaporegp.
sg) in September brings
diverse acts – usually a
mix of big-name superstars,
K-pop heartthrobs and a few
golden oldies. The city’s
streets are converted into
a racetrack where you can
catch hours of jam-packed
action from the race to the
concerts with one ticket.
Stay
Find stylish accommodation to suit your circumstances
Fullerton Bay
Hotel
Boutique
Orchard Hotel
Matchbox
Family friendly
The Orchard Hotel (442 Orchard Rd, +65 6734 7766, www.orchardhotel.com.
sg) has a special children’s concierge ser vice, ‘Ask Alfred’ (S$22++ per child).
Four Seasons Singapore (190 Orchard Blvd, +65 6734 1110, www.fourseasons.
com), has a kids’ buffet at Sunday brunch and babysitting ser vices. On Sentosa,
the Festive Hotel (39 Artiller y Ave, +65 6577 8899, www.r wsentosa.com) is filled
with child-friendly amenities; entertainment options (such as Universal Studios) are
on tap. All 313 studios at Capri by Fraser (3 Changi Business Park Central 1, +65
6933 9833, singapore.capribyfraser.com) have kitchenettes.
Budget
At New Majestic Hotel (31–37 Bukit Pasoh Rd, +65 6511 4700, www.
newmajestichotel.com) you’ll feel like a rock star, thanks to the big white lobby,
vintage fans, designer chairs and themed guest rooms. Hotel 1929 (50 Keong Saik
Rd, +65 6347 1929, www.hotel1929.com) turned five colonial shophouses into a 32room boutique property. At Klapsons (15 Hoe Chiang Rd, +65 6521 9000, klapsons.
com) no two rooms are alike but each has a Jacuzzi. Other options include Naumi
Liora (55 Keong Saik Rd, +65 6922 9000, www.naumiliora.com), a chic contemporar y
hotel in a heritage building in Chinatown.
Old-school charm
Movenpick Heritage Hotel Sentosa (23 Beach View, Sentosa, +65 6818 3388,
moevenpick-hotels.com) is close to all the island’s attractions and has a Heritage wing
dating back to the 1940s. Colonial-era architecture and a rich history set Hotel Fort
Canning (11 Canning Walk. +65 6559 6770. www.hfcsingapore.com) apart. This stately
86-room hotel was originally the British Army’s headquarters.
Luxury
The nine themed rooms in Clarke Quay’s Five Stones Hostel (61 South Bridge Rd,
+65 6535 5607, www.fivestoneshostel.com) are designed by local artists. Creature
comforts abound with firm, custom-made pillows and individual reading lights.
Matchbox the Concept Hostel (39 Ann Siang Rd, +65 6423 0237, www.matchbox.
sg), in a three-storey conservation shophouse, has a ladies-only 12-bed dorm, a twobed private room and an 18-bed mixed dorm. The sleeping pods are designed to be
like matchboxes. The Perak Hotel (12 Perak Rd, +65 6299 7733, www.peraklodge.
com) is ideal for soaking up local colour while offering a respite from the area’s hectic
vibe. Housed in a restored, Peranakan-style building, it’s small but full of character.
The centrally located Fullerton Bay Hotel (80 Collyer Quay, +65 6333 8388, www.
fullertonbayhotel.com) is one of the newer additions to the luxe Marina Bay waterfront
precinct. The hotel’s public spaces were designed by HK-based interiors wunderkind
Andre Fu – huge spaces, huge cylindrical chandeliers – and rooftop bar Lantern is one
of Singapore’s hottest bars. Boasting the most spacious accommodation in Singapore,
Capella (1 The Knolls, Sentosa, +65 6377 8888, capellahotels.com/singapore) offers
seascape visitas, beach access, spa and world-class luxury service.
46
47
Essential info
Useful phone
numbers
Get lost in
Chinatown (p20)
All the stuff you need to know (before you get lost)...
Singapore’s international dialing
code is +65. While in Singapore
and if you have international
roaming ser vice on your mobile,
you don’t have to press +65.
Emergency
Customs
To buy duty-free goods when entering
Singapore, you have to have been away
for at least two nights. You can’t bring
cigarettes into Singapore, but you can buy
them on the way out. There are no dutyfree concessions on cigarettes or other
tobacco items. You are not allowed to bring
in chewing gum, firecrackers or pirated
DVDs and CDs (www.customs.gov.sg).
Visas
Haji Lane (p27)
Attitude & etiquette
When to go
In general, Singaporeans are friendly and
helpful. However, race and religion are
usually not topics of debate.
Singapore’s weather is hot and humid
with little variation throughout the year.
The average daytime temperature is
31°C dropping to around 24°C at night.
so if you want to weather the weather,
dress accordingly.
Currency
The currency used in Singapore is the
Singapore dollar (S$). SGD$1 is roughly
equivalent to AU$0.80.
Smoking
Smoking is not permitted on public
transport, in museums, libraries, lifts,
cinemas, supermarkets, department
stores, hair salons, air-conditioned
restaurants and government offices.
Alfresco cafes have designated smoking
areas. Smoking is permitted in specified
rooms within air-conditioned pubs and
nightspots, but not in eating places.
Light up where it’s allowed, other wise be
prepared for a hefty SGD$1,000 fine.
Tipping
Singaporeans don’t generally tip, as
hotels and restaurants levy a 10 per
cent ser vice charge on bills plus 7 per
cent Goods & Ser vices Tax, denoted by
++ on menus and bills.
Singlish
Don’t forget to master the local dialect!
See p8
48
Nationals of most Western countries do
not require a visa to visit, and if visiting as
a tourist, will be given ‘social visit’ passes
valid for up to 30 days upon arrival. Please
refer to the Immigration and Checkpoints
Authority’s website (www.ica.gov.sg) for the
most up-to-date information.
Police 999
Ambulance/Fire 995
Flight information 1800 542 4422
Singapore country code +65
General info
Tourist information 1800 736 2000
Embassies
Australia 25 Napier Rd
+65 6836 4100
New Zealand 391a Orchard Rd
+65 6235 9966
Medical services
Raffles Hospital
585 North Bridge Rd, +65 6311 1111
Singapore General Hospital
Outram Rd, +65 6222 3322
Gleneagles Hospital
6A Napier Rd, +65 6473 7222
Tax refunds
A 7 per cent Goods & Services
Tax (GST) is charged on most items.
Foreign visitors can claim back the GST
when leaving Changi Airport. You must
spend a minimum amount of S$100
(including GST) on purchases from the
same retailer in the same day to qualify for
a refund (see p35). You may accumulate
up to a maximum of three same-day
receipts or invoices from the same retailer
to meet this minimum purchase amount.
Credit cards
MasterCard 800 110 0113
American Express 1800 396 6000
Visa 800 448 1250
Useful websites
YourSingapore.com
TimeOutSingapore.com
Useful apps
YourSingapore
Guide
Free
HoSay!
Free
GoThere.sg
US$2.99
49
Hungrygowhere
Free
50
Singapore
CC5
Bus Interchange Station
CE1
NS27
Marina Bay
Tanjong
Pagar
* Denote stations which are currently not in operation along existing lines.
** Please board the Sentosa Express at VivoCity Lobby, Level 3
FOOTNOTE:
MRT & LRT System map
6
NE1
HarbourFront
**
Telok Blangah
Labrador Park
CC27
CC28
CC29
9
Outram Park
EW16
Redhill
NE3
EW15
NE4
EW17
Tiong Bahru
CC26
CC25
Haw Par Villa
Pasir Panjang
CC24
Kent Ridge
10
CE2
5
Raffles Place
NS26 EW14
City Hall
NS25 EW13
Clarke
Quay
NE5
Chinatown
EW19
Queenstown
EW18
51
Mass Rapid Transit System Map, C 2011
SK
PG
Punggol LRT
CC
Circle Line
Bayfront
CC4
CC3
Bugis
Esplanade
EW12
Lavender
CC2
Commonwealth
EW20
Sengkang LRT
Bukit Panjang LRT BP
NS
NE
EW
East West Line
North East Line
Legend
Nicoll Highway
CC6
Promenade
Stadium
Mountbatten
CC7
EW11
Bras
Basah
CC1
NE6
NS24
Dhoby Ghaut
NS23
Somerset
EW21 CC22
CC23
one-north
Buona Vista
EW22
Clementi
Dover
North South Line
EW4
EW6
Kembangan
Dakota
CC9
EW8
Paya Lebar
CC8
EW10
Kallang
NE7
8
Little India
CC21
Holland
Village
EW23
4
EW25
Chinese
Garden
EW29
Joo Koon
EW27
Boon Lay
EW26
Interchange Station
CG2
CG1
Expo
Tanah Merah
EW3
Simei
NE9
NS21
NS22
Newton
Orchard
CC20
Farrer Road
EW24
NS1
Jurong East
Lakeside
EW28
NS2
Bukit Batok
NE8
Boon Keng
Farrer Park
NS19
NS20
Toa Payoh
Novena
CC19
Botanic Gardens
NS3
Bukit Gombak
EW9
Aljunied
NE11
NE10
Woodleigh
Potong Pasir
Bishan
NS18
Braddell
BP1
NS4
EW7
MacPherson
Eunos
CC10
Tai Seng
CC12
CC11
Bartley
Serangoon
NE12 CC13
NE13
CC14
NS17
CC15
CC16
CC17
Caldecott
BP8
Pending
BP7
Petir
Keat Phoenix
Hong
BP5
BP2
BP3
BP4
EW5
Bedok
SE4
SE5
NE14
Hougang
Lorong Chuan
Marymount
Ang Mo Kio
NS16
NS15
Bangkit
BP9
Jelapang
Kangkar
Ranggung
STC
NE16
NE15
Sengkang
Buangkok
SW8
Yio Chu Kang
Renjong
SW7
Tongkang
Fajar
BP10
BP6
BP12
BP11
BP13
South
View
Changi
Airport
3
1
EW1
Pasir Ris
Tampines
SK
SE3
Sengkang LRT
Bakau
Rumbia
SE2
PE3
Compassvale
Coral Edge
SE1
PE2
PE1
Cove
Meridian
Cheng Lim*
SW1
SW6
Layar
Khatib
NS14
Segar
Senja
Ten Mile
Junction
Teck BP14 Bukit
Whye
Panjang
Bukit Panjang LRT BP
EW2
PE4
Punggol LRT
Riviera
PG
Oasis
Kadaloor
PE5
Damai
PE6
PE7
Punggol
PTC
7
NE17
Kupang*
Farmway
SW2
SW3
SW4
SW5
Fernvale
Thanggam
Yishun
NS13
NS11
Admiralty
Marsiling
Sembawang
Kovan
2
Singaporeans are friendly folk. If
you’re lost, ask one for directions!
Pioneer
Lost? Ask a local !
Choa Chu Kang
The Real Singapore Tours
Activity-based tours covering
Singaporean culture, heritage,
food, and much more(betelbox.com/
singapore-tours).
NS5
The Original Singapore Walks
These walks work on a simple
principle: to bring people into
places most other tours don’t
(journeys.com.sg.)
Yew Tee
Bus ser vices operate all around
Singapore, including less accessible
areas and a handy bus ser vice called
the Nite Owl, which operates on
Fridays, Saturdays and the eve of
Public Holidays. Fares are distancebased and typically costs under $2.
Most buses are equipped with airconditioning.
NS10
Singapore Sightseeing Pass (SSP)
This full day touring pass provides
unlimited hop-on-hop-off rides on
land and on water (ducktours.com.sg).
Bus
NS9
Passes & tours
See Singapore Attractions Pass
Powered by iVenture, this credit
card-style pass includes entries to
over 15 of Singapore’s favourite
attractions(seesingaporepass.
iventurecard.com).
Woodlands
You should be able to hail a cab
without any problems in most par ts of
Singapore, but bear in mind: vehicles
are not allowed to wait or even stop
on roads with painted double yellow
jagged lines. It is always best to
get a cab from one of the numerous
taxi stands in Singapore – hotels and
shopping centre taxi stands are a
sure bet.
The city’s major cab companies are:
CityCab (+65) 6552 1111
Premier Taxis (+65) 6476 8880
Maxi Cab (+65) 6535 3534
SMRT Taxis (+65) 6555 8888
The EZ-Link card (a stored-value card) is a
fuss-free way to travel on trains and buses.
For buses, just tap the card on the reader
as you board and remember to tap out when
you alight. EZLink cards can be purchased
or topped up at MRT stations island-wide.
NS8
Taxi
MRT
The Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) system is
probably the fastest way to get around
Singapore besides taxis. Besides being
one of the cleanest transport systems in
the world, the MRT provides scenic views
of Singapore’s heartland and some city
areas, though you may want to avoid peak
hours for a smoother ride. Download the
unofficial MRT map from yoursingapore.
com/getlost (under Plan your trip) to uncover the hidden gems behind the stops.
NS7
Airport transfer
Taxis are abundant at the airport and
a trip to the city costs around $20-25,
plus surcharges. Several companies
provide the airport transfer ser vices,
which you can book even before you
travel to Singapore, a half or full day
in advance. Among them are Limo Taxi
(www.limomaxi.com) and Limousine
Cab (www.limousinecab.com), best
booked for groups of four and above.
Fares start from $45 and surcharges
apply for rides to and from the airport.
Kranji
Singapore’s transpor tation system makes getting around easy
Mass Rapid Transit System Map, © 2011. Land Transpor t Authority Singapore
Getting around
Rd
Stev
Far re
r
ens
Holla
Rd
nd Fly
over
Holland Rd
Na
pie
Co
m
d
so
nR
d
Dempsey
Hill
rR
d
lin R
g
Tan
Pa
ter
way
ens
d
Rd
Que
nd
ny R
lla
Clu
Ho
Grange
m
on
we
Rd
al
Tangli
n
Rd
th
Singapore Little
Black Book
ey
ll
Va
er
Rd
Rd
Riv
sw
Ale
xa
nd
ra
ay
So you think you know Singapore?
Think again. Time Out’s Little Black
Book is your guide to one of Asia’s
most vibrant destinations. Get lost –
and find the real Singapore...
Jin B
Tiong
Bahru
Mer
ah
er
so
n
Rd
ukit
n
so
er
Rd
Lower D
Alex
elta
and
Rd
ra R
d
He
nd
Jin
Bu
kit
Me
rah