spring 2015

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spring 2015
SPRING 2015
FASHION WEEK
Round-Up
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INTRODuction
EDITD runs the world’s biggest apparel data warehouse.
This report reveals the key trends from the Spring 2015
designer collections shown in New York, London, Milan and
Paris. Drawing on data from every garment style and colour
shown on the runway, the quantity and sentiment of online
mentions for each trend and designer, and exclusive retail
analytics, these are the top trends which represent the biggest
commercial potential for the coming season.
THEMES
Themes .............................................................................3
Seventies
Athletic Aesthetic
Seafarers
Japanese Influence
Utilitarian
Garments & Details .........................................................7
Wide Trousers
Duster Coats
Shirt Dresses
Peasant Dresses
Slip Dresses
Prints & Fabrics .............................................................10
Denim
Heavy Duty
Stripes
Floral
Colors .............................................................................13
Yellow
Blue
Pink
Designer ........................................................................16
Burberry Prorsum
Chanel
Prada
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The first, is to embrace all things Woodstock, calling out to the bohemian and festival-bound consumer. Billowing
peasant dresses, crochet knits, rainbow stripes, patchworked suede and acre upon acre of fringing are your go-to
motifs. Alberta Ferretti, Tommy Hilfiger, Francesco Scognamiglio, Chloé and Dries Van Noten exemplified this take on
the decade.
Sadly, modern life decrees that we have to leave the love-in and return to the city at some point. That’s where 70s luxe
tailoring stepped in, kitting the runway out with flared and bell bottomed pants, elegant jumpsuits, blouses layered
under fine knits and tunics layered over fluted trousers. Trench coats were belted, neck scarves looped and aviators
topped it all off. Karen Walker, Gucci, Acne, Emilio Pucci and Derek Lam were doing the legwork here.
And from day to the night - the final stem of the 70s trend saw us take to the disco dancefloor. Saint Laurent’s goodtime
dresses in metallic leopard and peacock prints, the glittered platform heels, the velvet Hendrix jackets - all summarise
this theme. Elsewhere, Henry Holland’s psychedelic florals and flirty metallics and Coach’s pastel coloured furs spoke of
glass-raised hedonism.
ALEXANDER
TOPSHOP WANG
Sport luxe will not die. And given its huge consumer
uptake, nor should it. Our daily lives are active, and clothes
are stepping up to the challengevvv as sports casual
becomes the default daywear around the globe. For Spring
2015, the shapes are sporty, but the motifs are not - the
varsity references have been stripped back. Instead, in a
monochrome, neutral or pastel palette, we were presented
with racy-looking highwaist, slim pants, a myriad of meshes
and the ovoid forms of neoprene. Funnel necks, cycling shorts,
zipper detailing and stripe-trim bindings to necks and hems
were present in all four cities. The bomber jacket returns yet
again. Some of the best were at Stella McCartney - lighter
than air, dishevelled and longline. References here move away
from tennis, basketball and martial arts, instead turning to
the faster and more furious pursuits of baseball, Formula One
and cycling. The best designers referencing athleticism were
Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Carven and Marni.
ICEBERG
A love of all things 70s is the defining trend of Spring 2015, evidenced strongly in each of the four cities. Given its high
runway coverage, we know this will be a hit across all market levels in Spring. There are three approaches to this trend.
CARVEN
ATHLETIC AESTHETIC
ALEXANDER WANG
Seventies
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MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
ALEXANDER WANG
GUCCI
DEREK LAM
CHLOÉ
SEAFARERS
The current global political and economic climate drove many designers towards the functional and strong - in agile
sportiness, with military undertones or in hard-faced utilitarianism. However, there were a raft of designers who broke
away from land-bound troubles and headed out to sea. Rodarte’s fine nets were dredging the mystical Deep Blue, with
mermaid-like scraps of dresses set against shipshape hardware, buckles and deep pockets. J.W. Anderson’s doublebreasted cropped
jackets in ivory were
paired with leather
sou’westers, as were
terry-towelling skirt
suits with contrast
piping. Ropes belted
waists, sailor-pants
were worn wide,
cropped at the ankle
and often cuffed, and
rivets and cut outs
adorned jolly looking
jumpsuits. The palette
was classic - in navies,
red, white and cream,
with splashes of
seaweed green and
scattering of metallic
embellishment, and
stripes were widely
employed.
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GARMENTS
& DETAILS
ALEXANDER
WANG
MARNI
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
BCBG MAX AZRIA
Designers looked to the East for Spring
inspiration. It began with obi belts in New
York, at BCBG Max Azria, Jill Stuart and Suno.
London picked up the baton, interpreting obi
belts more dramatically in oversized leather at
J.W. Anderson, and with kimono-style suiting
at Matthew Williamson. But it was in Milan
and Paris where the Japanese influence was
truly set for SS15. In Antonio Marras’s cherry
blossom blooms and Marni’s origami folds, in
Roland Mouret’s out-sized orchid motifs and
Maison Martin Margiela’s all out appreciation,
with jacquards and florals, long, straight
dresses and obi waists. Given the commercial
prowess of the kimono in Spring 2014, this
theme makes good sense. The best direction
lies in the judo-style, wide trousers, the cinched
waist styling and the cherry blossom, poppy
and orchid blooms.
J.W. ANDERSON
JAPANESE INFLUENCE
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ALEXANDER
WANG
SACAI
MARC JACOBS
ICEBERG
HUNTER ORIGINAL
UTILITARIAN
Escapism wasn’t high on everyone’s list
for SS15. Instead, many designers braced
themselves for the ride, decked out in
military khakis, with functional utility pockets
and rank-decreeing epaulettes. Spring
2015’s uniform has been presented to us shirts are crisp and buttoned, trenchcoats
are belted and workwear forms were
explored with useful-looking overalls. Marc
Jacobs added embellishment to his female
army, whilst Chanel’s rioting pack wore
their military fatigues with placards and
attitude. Sacai were a tour de force with this
trend - demonstrating how to pair military
references with just enough fluff to create
mass appeal. They did this with a ditsy
floral, tiers and sheers.
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ALEXANDER
PAUL & JOE WANG
MICHAEL KORS
MARIOS SCHWAB
JUST CAVALLI
ALEXANDER
WANG
TOMMY
HILFIGER
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
ALEXANDER
WANG
WES GORDON
ERDEM
CHLOÉ
That outerwear makes it as one of Spring
2015’s key garments bears testament to
the dose of reality that designers have
delivered this season. They know that for
so many of their global customers, Spring
weather is quite unfavorable. Step forward
the duster coat - whose loose shape is
ideal for layering, for letting hang open
or for belting tightly against the breeze.
This shape is not new to retail - retailers
like ASOS and Topshop are already doing
well with the trend in both Spring and Fall
2014, however, we’re expecting consumers
to adopt this item across the breadth of
market segments. Cut, color and fabrication
will be the key differentiator here. The pick
of Spring 2015’s offerings were in dusky
muted minks, lavender, duck egg blue and
cool grey.
High summer’s dress has been decided: the peasant dress
was a unanimous hit in each of the cities this month. The
innocence of life on the prairie has been interpreted in the
prettiest wisps of dresses at Chloé, Francesco Scognamiglio
and Alberta Ferretti. Be they tiered, in sheers, with lace
inserts or carrying a ditsy floral, retailers appealing to the
youth, holiday and trend-led markets should consider
including peasant dresses in maxi and short shapes. There is
scant opportunity in Spring 2015 to be overtly feminine, and
this garment will be retailers’ key opportunity.
SLIP DRESSES
The ease and implied indifference of pyjama dressing (which
was evident still for SS15) has extended the shelf life of the
cami or slip dress. Spaghetti strapped and simply cut - bar a
few flounces or hem peplums - this season’s cami dresses are
more nightie than négligée, cut diaphanously to turn down
the vixen vibes. Look to the city of love for the best inspiration.
Yohji Yamamoto, Stella McCartney and Lanvin all offered the
best interpretations in Paris, with trapeze shapes being one
way to move beyond SS14’s 90s styling.
STELLA MCCARTNEY
SUNO
ALEXANDER WANG
MISSONI
DRIES VAN NOTEN
BARBARA CASASOLA
DUSTER COATS
PEASANT DRESSES
FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO
KENZO
GIORGIO ARMANI
But it doesn’t stop there, wide legwear
extended into the most fluid of flares,
worked their way into slouchy, silk pyjama
dressing and found denim interpretation
- see Kenzo’s for the most dramatic of
styles. With paperbag waists, judo-ties
and turn-ups, in silks, suede and leather,
retailers need wide silhouette bottoms to
truly embrace Spring 2015.
GUCCI
Designers showed us that for SS15, shirt dresses needn’t be
prim and proper. While of course, there were classic forms of
straight-laced, buttoned-up dresses evidenced, the bulk of the
commerciality around this garment will be found in updates.
Whether it’s the contrast of the neat gingham prints against
a looser, and undone shape at Altuzarra and Michael Kors, or
the graphic print and slashed shoulders of Marios Schwab, this
garment can sit within the 1970s or Utilitarian themes. For the
former, high cut collars, paisley prints and silk will work well,
and for the latter, take to boxy cuts, functional pockets and
detailing in epaulettes and metalwork.
TEMPERLEY LONDON
Retailers need to embrace wider legwear
for Spring 2015 - designers were pushing
the message so forcibly that consumer
demand next season will be high. The
culottes which worked so well in Spring
2014 and lead into Fall, will return with
impact. In every shade and cut wide,
culottes will be popular once again as
they fit into four of the five new season
themes: 1970s, Utilitarian, Japanese
Influence and Seafarers.
ALEXANDER WANG
SHIRT DRESSES
MONIQUE LHUILLIER
WIDE TROUSERS
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STELLA MCCARTNEY
ALEXANDER WANG
GUCCI
KAREN WALKER
Denim has been given a luxury thumbsup, making an unlikely appearance on
the runways at Valentino, Gucci, Burberry
and Stella McCartney. With its lifted
credentials, retailers will give denim
an overhaul for Spring 15, using the
workwear fabric in unlikely places - in
oversized outerwear, as per Kenzo, in shirt
dresses, like at Gucci and in the widest
of culottes, thanks to Stella McCartney.
Burberry’s rethink on the denim jacket,
with waspish seams tapering the
silhouette, will be much aped on the high
street.
BURBERRY PRORSUM
PRINTS
& FABRICS
DENIM
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LUCAS NASCIMENTO
ALEXANDER WANG
GUY LAROCHE
ALTUZARRA
ALBERTA FERRETTI
HEAVY DUTY
Echoing the unseasonably dark palette
of many designers’ collections, were the
heavy weight fabrics which won’t fare well
on the beach for summer. But that’s just
another dose of realism from designers,
who know they can not only get more
bang for their buck with premium fabrics,
but whose consumers spend more time in
changeable temperatures than tropical. So
for Spring, we turn to the use of leathers
and suede in daywear - suede belted pants
at Loewe, suede tunic dresses neatly belted
at Altuzarra and suede in all its fringed glory
at Alberta Ferretti, carrying the Pocahontas
theme home. Leather came through in
midi skirts and pencil skirts, in trenchcoats
and bomber jackets, in cropped tops and
dungarees. The fringing will be a key aspect
to this trend - seen on trousers, skirts,
dresses and accessories, this is more than a
trim for Spring 2015.
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COLORS
ALEXANDER WANG
EMPORIO ARMANI
DKNY
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Plucky is the stripe, fitting into four of the
five new season trends - it blew other
print competition out of the water. From
the nautical blues and whites at Emporio
Armani and Breton at Sonia Rykiel, to the
dizzying cacophony of stripes at Preen.
For Spring 2015, feel free to do deckchair
bold, workwear pinstripes, uniform
regularity or playful chaos. Style this trend
confidently - Temperley’s stripes played
out across pants, shirts and outerwear - a
striking approach in store or online.
PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI
STRIPES
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VICTORIA BECKHAM
ALEXANDER WANG
MAXMARA
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
CÉLINE
FLORAL
It’s power to the flower for SS15, coming
through as the season’s second strongest
print. And for good reason - floral dresses
were one of SS14’s best-selling items.
Retailers can find newness in the 1970s
inspired blooms at Céline, House of
Holland and MaxMara. There were also
Japanese blooms from Maison Martin
Margiela and Carolina Herrera. Pretty ditsy
florals too were given space - Sacai’s were
multi-colored, Mulberry found newness in
more unique blooms of cow parsley and
delphinium and Dior used a dainty sprig
repeat on white shirting.
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ALEXANDER WANG
yellow
PHILIPP PLEIN
CREATURES OF THE WIND
CHLOÉ
FYODOR GOLAN
FAUSTO PUGLISI
Bare neutrals, yellow is the most-used shade
of the season, kicking SS14’s pastels into touch
with its punchy personality. The 1970s theme
can be thanked for the high level of citrus within
the new season palette - look to the collections
of Karen Walker, Paul & Joe and House of
Holland for shades of canary, limeade, popcorn
and citron. It’s a color with big personality - keep
print free for the cautious.
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ROKSANDA ILINCIC
LOEWE
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NINA RICCI
Pink sold fantastically well in pastel tones for SS14, so
it’s no surprise that designers returned to its welcoming
arms in Spring 2015. Designers spoke in relative unison
about the must-use shades, hovering somewhere
between blush and bubblegum. On the catwalk, impact
was delivered in all-over looks, like those shown at
Chanel and Christopher Raeburn. For an entry level into
this palette, color-block pink shades against greys or
blacks, á la Roksanda Ilincic.
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN
pink
BCBG MAX AZRIA
For so many designers this month, color was not the primary
focus of the collection - with print, form, and fabric taking to
the fore. The result was many muted collections, elegant and
sophisticated in their head to toe whites, or serene in their
mushroom, mink, cream and stone. However, color analysis
software can quell any retailer concerns that there are not
headline color stories for the new season!
ALBERTA FERRETTI
EUDON CHOI
VERSACE
CÉLINE
DKNY
SPRING 2015
Pairing perfectly with the yellow on the colorwheel
is the presence of an array of blues. A crisp ground
for the athletic trend, or speaking directly to the
seafaring stories, we’ve seen cornflowers, duck egg
and blue mist employed successfully at Tibi, Eudon
Choi and Topshop Unique. Packing more punch are
the cyans used by Loewe, Issey Miyake, Matthew
Williamson and Mother of Pearl. And of course,
reliably present is navy - a black with a backstory, if
you will. In sumptuous midnight-hues at Jackie JS
Lee, in gorgeous silken slips worn with sheer sweater
at Richard Nicoll and given exquisite knife pleating at
Tome - this shade is in a class of its own.
DION LEE
blue
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DESIGNER
BURBERRY PRORSUM
Spring 2015, through Burberry’s eyes, is painted
with a slightly murky box of watercolors - the
mustards seeping into khakis, the lavenders
bleeding into grey and the indigo saturating all.
It was an unusual collection from Christopher
Bailey, and his first in dual position as creative
director and CEO. But the take-homes were big,
and will be industry-swaying. Namely, the denim
jackets, the tiers of tulle in ombré, the ugly but
functional sandals and sneakers, the bright
suede trenches and the bowling bags. It was a
bit 90s, a lot lurid. And it is already selling.
CHANEL
Let battle commence! Was Lagerfeld cashing in on
the political climate, or holding a mirror to it? Rather
than answer that, we’ll see how well the collection
sells and how many mimic its themes. As ever with a
Chanel show, the almost 90 looks travelled through
stories or themes. Beginning with crazily-colored
suiting, all wide legs, shirts and ties, this soon moved
into protest-appropriate military khakis. After a brief
floral and pastel stage, the war cries were echoed
in chainmail dresses. It could have stopped there. It
didn’t - instead we saw a pretty white shirting section,
something about knitted stripes, a bit of geometrics
and even some skirt-over-trouser play. It was a lot to
take in - but take it in the online world did. We’ll await
Spring 15 to determine the lasting impact.
prada
Despite Karl Lagerfeld’s disruptive protest, Chanel
did not march their way to the season’s top spot,
as most talked-about brand online this month.
The placards, crazy tweeds and chainmail dresses
sit in second place. Nor did Prada’s vision of postapocalyptic make do and mend, which topped
the charts in Milan, but only snuck into third place
overall. Instead it was the rainbow of colors, denim
and ‘ugly’ footwear at Burberry which tickled online
spectators’ fancies most.
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Miuccia Prada put research at the core of her collection
- reproducing archived fabrics dating from the 19th
Century through to the mid-60s and putting them to fine
use in her ragged riches mash up. It began primly, and
in a sombre palette, but soon things loosened up - in
mood and in finish, as seams unravelled and patchwork
was introduced. There were nods to the 70s theme, in
tank tops, knee socks and high necks, whilst not being
decisively ‘of’ any one decade overall. Aside from some
jolts of neon green and some dashes of tangerine including one leather trench - the collection was darktoned and heavy in fabrication.
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