No. 14 - Capsule

Transcription

No. 14 - Capsule
CAPSULESHOW.COM
1
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2015
SPRING/
SUMMER
2016
№
14
PARIS MEN'S
June 26–28
Cité de la Mode
NEW YORK MEN'S
July 20–21
Basketball City
LAS VEGAS
MEN'S & WOMEN'S
NEW YORK
WOMEN'S ACC.
August 17–19
The Venetian Ballroom
September 17–19
Pier 94
NEW YORK
WOMEN'S RTW
PARIS WOMEN'S
September 17–19
Pier 94
October 2–4
Tapis Rouge
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CAPSULE PAPER NO. 14
SEPTEMBER
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
Jewelry
Moments
INTERVIEW:
Marta Freedman
of Hot Girls
Eating Pizza
W
e asked some of our favorite
participating jewelry brands
to give us a jewelry “moment”
from history, celebrity, film or television
that inspires their collection:
BY TY MCBRIDE
M
arta Freedman is the creator of Instagram phenomenon Hot Girls Eating Pizza (@h0tgirlseatingpizza),
celebrating, as you may have guessed, cool girls and
hot pizza. Recently named one of Rolling Stone's “Top 100
Instagram Accounts to Follow,” HGEP has amassed over
15K followers eager to have a look at the designers, editors,
foodies, CEOs and musicians posing alongside their favorite
slice. She also founded TRIXXIE, a whimsical line of nail
decals, sold online and in stores around the country.
Freedman studied textile design at FIT in NY and works
in fabric R&D.
Ty McBride is the Founder and Creative Director
footwear. McBride recently moved
of Intentionally
to Los Angeles after almost a decade in NYC where
he held pivotal roles at Jeffrey Campbell and SoleStruck.
Marta and Ty recently sat down to discuss Instagram,
pop culture and the powers of pizza.
Four Quick
Q’s with
Julia Chu
We find the painting "Girl With a Pearl Earring” by Johannes
Vermeer inspiring. We love how a simple piece of jewelry
can say so much and set a mood. The understated quality
of the earring and the slightly opened mouth of the subject
lend a lot to the imagination. We try to allow the viewers
imagination to play off the simple elegance of our designs.
Noriko & Akiko Sugawara
N+A nandanewyork.com
How do you choose the women featured on
HGEP? Do you find them? Do they find
you? Is it simple a law of attraction based
on sauce and cheese?
The process has evolved over time,
but Instagram is still the best tool. We follow
a lot of girls that just peak our interest for
one reason or another. Most of the time I just
reach out and ask if they want to meet up for
pizza! The only real criteria is that they’re
“doing something awesome”. We like to feature inspirational, strong women including
entrepreneurs, designers... most are in a creative field or have a strong side hustle, which
I really admire and relate to. Sometimes the
women reach out to me, or we're introduced
I think 'pizza fandom' is at an all-time high
right now and I don’t see it declining anytime
soon. Millennials love it, and I think we feel
really emotionally connected to it.
and connected by women who have already
been featured on HGEP. It often turns into
a collaborative effort, and from there it’s
honestly so easy to get to know someone over
pizza. I look forward to every slice and
I'm so grateful to be surrounded by the positive
energy that HGEP attracts.
You have such a strong vision of who
the "HGEP" girl is! Who was Marta
before HGEP?
I work in the fashion industry, in fabric
research & development. I've always had
an entrepreneurial spirit and the internet
and social media have made it that much
easier to explore and express other interests
and facets of my personality! HGEP has given
me the opportunity to meet so many inspiring,
creative people that I might not otherwise
come across on a daily basis.
Growing up, one of my favorite movies was
Mystic Pizza (I realize most young boys
weren't probably into it!), but since then
I think pizza has reached a new level of pop
culture icon status, going beyond fast food
and munchies to become a serious trending
topic, image, and cultural touchstone
for more than one generation of people!
What kicked off your personal connection
with pizza?
I ate a lot of pizza as a kid. It wasn't
my favorite food, but I was a picky eater and
pizza was easy and available. I also ate a lot
of pizza in college, mainly because it was
cheap! It wasn’t until maybe two or three
years ago that I recall seeing a spike in pizza’s
pop culture popularity. It started popping
up in memes, on clothing, and in music
(e.g. Macaulay Culkin’s parody band The
Pizza Underground). I think "pizza fandom"
is at an all-time high right now and I don’t see
it declining anytime soon. Millennials love it,
and I think we feel really emotionally
connected to it. So as far as establishing Hot
Girls Eating Pizza, it just felt like a no-brainer:
so much delicious pizza in NYC and even
more amazing women to share it with!
What do you think is so special about pizza
that brings people together?
I think it’s a comfort food and easily shared.
Also, for a food it seems to have a lot of
“personality.” It’s easy, delicious, can be
customized to please most people, and just
makes any situation a thousand times more
fun. Pizza doesn't demand to be be taken
too seriously!
I'm all about collaborating and networking,
so if we made a "HOT GIRLS EATING
PIZZA × INTENTIONALLY BLANK"
shoe, would it be pizza-themed
or more like what a hot girl wears on her
way to grab a slice?
The HGEP style is definitely a busy woman,
so the shoe would have to be flexible
and versatile — it should easily make the
transition from work — to a pizza dinner with
girlfriends — to a party or late night concert.
Where do you see HGEP going? What's next?
We have a lot going on over the next
couple of months with various partners,
but for now I'll just say we're working on
expanding our outreach and audience in some
very exciting ways, so “Stay Tuned.”
As the women’s buyer at LA’s
American Rag Cie, Julia Chu
sifts through the collections
of hundreds of designers each
season to bring only the best to
the store’s trademark top-notch
edit. On the eve of the kickoff
for the SS16 women’s market,
we caught up with Julia to ask
her four quick questions.
What trends do you think are most important
for SS16 and why?
Wide leg pants! Or maybe it's just me, but give
me a pair of wide leg cropped/baggy/frayed/
cuffed/distressed pants or jeans and I'm comfortable
and happy.
Photo by Max Papendieck
TM. Marta! Tell me! When you started Hot
Girls Eating Pizza ("HGEP") did you think
it would become this mini-society of babes
and slices? What was your original intent?
MF. I started it in May 2014 and originally
thought of it as possibly a year-long project,
something to help get me over a breakup and
take my mind off of losing my mom. I just
wanted to eat pizza with my friends and meet
some new friends along the way. It definitely
helped me, but in the process also brought
me so much happiness and I've met so many
new friends, I wasn’t expecting that. I love the
social and interactive aspects of HGEP,
and I love that it celebrates amazing women
that might not otherwise receive or seek-out
the attention.
3
More than a moment, I am fascinated with the natural
glamour of the French actresses of the 1970s or popularly
known as the “it girls.” Some of my favorites include
Bridgitte Bardot and Jane Birkin. I have always admired
their versatility and adaptability to many different forms
of art including singing, acting, modeling, and directing.
We specialize in delicate luxury that can be fancy
or casual and I try to preserve a sense of natural glamour
that is synonymous with those 1970s “it girls” in all
of my jewelry pieces.
This season my collection is called Love Thorn. I utilized
micro mini bullets and pearls in setting that looks a bit
like rose buds, so it’s a mix of tough and tender, sexy and
dangerous. Look no further than the irresistible Pamela
Anderson in the 1996 action sci-fi flick Barb Wire.
Katie Diamond
Joomi Lim
Katie Diamond katiediamondjewelry.com
Joomi Lim joomilim.com
The most major movie jewelry
moment for me is the 1980s Brooke
Sheilds movie, The Blue Lagoon,
the idealized romantic story of two
young children marooned on paradise
in the South Pacific. They grow
up and fall in love they live off the land
and adorn themselves with the tropical
green, lush flowers, South Pacific
pearls, treasures from the ocean
and a mix of Victorian-era remnants
of home from a lone steamer trunk.
It still inspires me to this day.
Vanessa Arizaga
Vanessa Arizaga vanessaarizaga.com
What are some key traits you look for when
you're bringing a new designer into American
Rag for the first time?
I love to see brands with a clear vision for their
customer. Even if I'm not their ideal woman,
it's great when I can tell who it is and identify
a market for that in the store. I also look at the
quality of the clothes from new designers because
production and finished garments are so important
when a piece is hanging on the rack.
Which young or emerging designers are you
most excited about?
I love Prae! She showed at Capsule last year and
the stuff is really beautiful. She makes these great
bras that are different, sexy, but really modern too.
It's definitely a special product that people need
to start wearing ASAP! I also gotta support our
LA locals: Shaina Mote, Objects Without Meaning,
Lacausa and Kristen Elspeth. Those ladies
are awesome.
What's selling most right now at American
Rag?
We had Marques’Almeida for the first season
last spring and our customers really embraced
it. Shoppers are smarter now and have more
of a global awareness. They know when they
see something special.
For more visit americanrag.com @jejunejulia
Meet Marta at Capsule NY Women's, Sept 17–19
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CAPSULE PAPER NO. 14
SEPTEMBER
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
New at Capsule
NAKED & FAMOUS DENIM
WOLFUM
JOYRICH
Finally! Canadian denim line, Naked and Famous, launches
a full women’s collection for SS16, in addition to their well cut
classic jeans made of the best quality Japanese fabrics.
Tabletop and home goods, made with a clever fusion of print,
product and process. A range of printed leather goods are
launching at Capsule, in addition to wildly printed trays,
napkins, coasters, and backgammon sets.
Based in Los Angeles, Joyrich strives to make fashion that
combines a sense of fun and luxury to casualwear. For SS16,
Joyrich is debuting a collab with Playboy.
New York Women’s RTW
New York Women’s Accessories
New York Women’s RTW
FASHION AND TECH
COMPANIES HAVE A LOT
TO LEARN FROM ONE
ANOTHER
Fashion
Tech
Forum
Project Jacquard, the smart thread collaboration
between Levi’s and Google, is essentially writing
the manual for how fashion and tech companies
can work together. On one of the most-talked-about
panels at Fashion Tech Forum, Google’s Ivan
Poupyrev and Paul Dillinger of Levi’s discussed
how they viewed their partnership as harnessing
each company’s strengths to act as one unit, with
the same goals and aspirations. “It’s not two corporate entities looking at each other,” Dillinger said.
“It’s really a group of friends who got together
and are making great shit happen.”
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BODY TALK
JONATHAN SAUNDERS
Paris Women’s
New York Women’s Accessories
Proportion, texture, and forward silhouettes make this super
sexy collection one to watch.
Created in Lithuania, Body Talk clothing initiates a dialogue
between a woman and her body through chic and comfortable
body suits and dresses in feel good fabrics.
Scottish fashion designer Jonathan Saunders, known for his
work with multi-dimensional patterns and inspired color
blocking, boldly launches his first eyewear collection.
New York Women’s RTW
NOMIA
OPS & OPS
SHAFFER
Sophisticated, but minimalist, New York’s Nomia references
modern art, sportswear, urban culture and a mix of traditionally
masculine and feminine shapes and silhouettes.
Ops and Ops make shoes that are playful, but grown up;
forward-thinking, but inspired by the 60’s. They’re perfect
for day, but ideal for night.
Leather bags made in Los Angeles that combine
an appreciation for laid-back, California cool with
an unmistakably European edge.
Capsule New York Women’s RTW
Capsule New York Women’s RTW & Paris Women's
Capsule New York Women’s Accessories & Paris Women's
BRICK-AND-MORTAR
IS MORE IMPORTANT
THAN EVER
Scott Galloway of research and intelligence firm
L2 argued that in a world in which companies
like Fab.com can be valued at a billion dollars one
year and out of business the next, multiple revenue
streams are necessary in order for online retailers
to survive. “Every pure play e-commerce business
is either going out of business, opening stores or
is going to consolidate,” he said, pointing to the
successof Warby Parker as a positive example of
retail expansion done well. “Pure play e-commerce
does not make any sense.”
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fashiontechforum.com
C
DURING NEW YORK
4
1
A preview of brands we’re welcoming into the Capsule family for the
first time — and some we’re welcoming back after some time away.
5
apsule will kick off the New
York Women’s show with a
lively panel hosted by some of
the best conversation hosts in town,
Fashion Tech Forum. Capsule in
Discussion will feature a small group
of industry leaders, curated by FTF,
sharing their insights on the state of
the industry. FTF is the annual
gathering of CEOs, creative directors,
designers, founders and investors
that serves as a platform to discuss
and dissect the issues and trends
shaping the future of fashion, retail,
media and technology. This year,
the group threw an all day conference featuring over 60 speakers
offering new ideas and important
discoveries. To get you in the big idea
state of mind, Maia Wojcik, partner
and head of fashion and curation at
FTF, and Tara Jepson, President,
run down the six biggest takeaways
from that event →
Capsule in Discussion,
September 17, 9am, Pier 94.
BRANDS ARE PROVING
THAT SUSTAINABILITY
CANNOT BE AT
THE SACRIFICE OF
GREAT DESIGN
While more and more companies can boast vast
improvements and remarkable strides in their sustainability initiatives – including FTF participants
Kering, who maintain a spot atop the list of responsible luxury conglomerates with their Environmental Profit and Loss reporting – the output still needs
to stand on its own. As Reformation founder Yael
Aflalo explained, “People should buy Reformation products because Reformation makes good
products. Meet us, meet the clothes, get to know us,
and then we’ll take you on a journey to change your
mind about sustainability.”
3
BUY
THE FUTURE OF
E-COMMERCE IS
CONTEXTUAL
The separation of church and state – in this case
commerce and editorial – is a thing of the past.
Consumers want information about product and
a way to purchase it in the same place, whether
through Buy It Now buttons on Pinterest or
a more editorialized take on online shopping.
More succinctly, Curulate CEO Apu Gupta said,
“Clicks kill conversions.”
THERE’S A WAR FOR
THE TOP TALENT
IN FASHION
More than ever before, designers, executives and
creatives are leaving the fashion industry, enticed
by the strong company culture, dynamic work
environment and creative freedom offered by
so many in the tech space. “We realized that our
industry needed to be disrupted, as well,” said FTF
Founder Karen Harvey. That’s part of the reason
why FTF has launched INDX, the first global
digital community for creative talent in fashion.
INDX (theindx.com) is an invitation-only network
for creative talent in fashion to tell their stories,
share work and connect on new projects and opportunities with both fashion and technology brands.
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CUSTOMIZATION COULD
BE THE ULTIMATE
FASHION DISRUPTOR
By utilizing newly available technology to offer
completely personalized product that’s made to
order, companies like Normal earphones and Shoes
of Prey are challenging the traditionally accepted
ideas about everything from the supply chain,
to fabrication, sustainability and end cost to the
consumer. Athlete and model Aimee Mullins
summed it up well: “Where bespoke meets affordable is where we will see the power of technology.”
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CAPSULE PAPER NO. 14
SEPTEMBER
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
7
RECAP
NYFW:
MEN'S
A
s New York Fashion Week: Men's rolled into town for the
first time this summer, Capsule gathered seven menswear
designers from around the world for a group presentation,
presented by Project Cobalt. Baartmans and Siegel (UK), Blackfist
(US), CAMO (Italy), CMMN SWDN (SE), Maiden Noir (US), Matthew
Miller (UK) and Second/Layer (US) selected highlights from their
SS16 collections and displayed them before New York's fashion elite
at Skylight at Clarkson Square in downtown Manhattan.
CMMN SWDN
Baartmans and Siegel
Stylist Matthew Henson
Here, are highlights from the presentation, with looks styled
by Matthew Henson and behind the scenes photos from
Ryan Muir and Christian Cox.
Second/Layer
Second/Layer
Eugene Tong and Josh Peskowitz
Great scene
Maiden Noir
Matthew Miller
Blackfist custom Vans
CAMO
Matt Fugate for SEVEN Haircare
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CAPSULE PAPER NO. 14
SEPTEMBER
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
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01
03
CALIFORNIA
DREAMIN'
02
04
02: SHAINA MOTE
04: LACAUSA
www.shainamote.com
Designer: Shaina Mote
Founded: 2012
Your brand in one sentence: “Pare down to the essence,
but don’t remove the poetry.” –Leonard Koren
How long have you lived in Los Angeles? Since birth.
Is LA crucial to your brand DNA? Yes. LA's mellow attitude
is impossible to deny. The clothes tend to be unrestrictive and
easy to throw on.
What aspects or vibes of the city inspire it and how?
LA is home to sun bleached everything, hard and angular
shadow and oddly assembled and diverse textures found all
together on one block. The fact that there is not all too much
history as a city leaves room for all sorts of exploration and
discovery. It feels like there is room to grow here and to create
something new and beautiful.
Favorite secret Los Angeles spot? The Temple of Leaves
on top of Mount Washington.
Favorite Los Angeles meal? Anything from Elf Cafe.
www.lacausaclothing.com
Designer: Rebecca Grenell
Founded: 2012
Your brand in one sentence: LACAUSA (Los Angeles
California USA) and also means “the cause” in Spanish,
is committed to creating beautiful, quality garments under
ethical conditions with our headquarters and factory in
downtown Los Angeles.
How long have you lived in Los Angeles? Born and raised.
Is LA crucial to your brand DNA? Of course! We have
branded ourselves around the Los Angeles lifestyle and the
environmental landscape of our city and coast. We love LA
and feel as it becomes more and more of a cultural epicenter,
new technologies, trends and ideas can be mixed with more
traditional style and our aesthetic can evolve with the city.
What aspects or vibes of the city inspire it and how?
I love how casual the city is, but also how ambitious
and creatively diverse it is. It is a prolific environment
but also very relaxed and slow moving in a lot of ways.
Growing up in Malibu with mountains and ocean up against
each other, agriculture farms to the north and the busy city
not far, makes for a very unique way of life that has so much
beauty, and nurtures and supports hard work. Our clothing
aspires to capture this duality.
Favorite secret Los Angeles spot? Secret Malibu surf spots,
where only we know where the big rocks are…
Favorite Los Angeles meal? So many! Weekday Breakfast
at Gjelina: the Pain Perdu. Lunch at Gjusta: a strawberry
shrub and a falafel plate. Dinner, always and forever:
the Seafood Yosenabe (fish hot pot) at Inaka on La Brea!
03: AHLEM EYEWEAR
05
01: OBJECTS WITHOUT MEANING
MODERN MUSE: LOS ANGELES
Seems we can’t hear or read enough articles about New Yorkers heading to Los Angeles,
about the blossoming cultural moment there (super cool stores, close-knit and
supportive art scene, culinary delights!) and of course about how easy life is,
all slow and more considered. The sun’s always shining. Maybe you even have a pool.
True confession: we’re die-hard New Yorkers. But based on the provenance of some
of our favorite collections right now, well, maybe we should be considering a more
westward gaze. At the very least we’re looking forward to soaking up some of the city’s
modern magic through these five standout, Los Angeles-based brands at our upcoming
Capsule women’s show; here the designers tell you why their city matters.
www.objectswihtoutmeaning.com
Designer: Alexandra Michelle
Year founded: The brand was launched in 2011.
Your brand in one sentence: Objects Without Meaning—
Represents nothing more than the beautiful simplicity of its
materials and form.
How long have you lived in Los Angeles? 4 years.
After working in New York and Australia for many years
I decided to make Los Angeles my home.
Is LA crucial to your brand DNA? I think that my surroundings
are a big part of the brand's DNA so yes…I'm inspired by the
authenticity I can find in nature, people and places.
What aspects or vibes of the city inspire it and how?
Art, music, history and quality of life are important—it inspires
me to be creative.
Favorite secret Los Angeles spot? I love being out in nature,
the desert, the beach, the forest…I'm so lucky to have all these
things in Los Angeles! One of my favorite spots is Griffith Park
it's so peaceful and yet so close to where I live. It's a great way
to relax without going very far.
Favorite Los Angeles meal? There are so many! But I'm
a huge fan of sushi so I would say Sushi Gen in Little Tokyo
would be at the top of the list.
www.ahlemeyewear.com
Designer: Ahlem Manai-Platt
Founded: 2014
Your brand in one sentence: My goal is to make frames
that give people confidence.
How long have you lived in Los Angeles? Since 2013.
I'm a born and raised Parisienne. When I met Bo, my American
hubby, I always knew we would move LA. When we did,
we came straight to Venice.
Is LA crucial to your brand DNA? Paris and New York are
extremely inspiring but so very overwhelming. LA tempers
everything; the music, the flow, it makes things more steady.
It’s the only place right now where I can just think about
things. Something about the air, the space, the weather.
“Well being” is so important here and it’s a lifestyle that
totally fits me. We think of our collections as a part of us;
it’s slow made and personal.
What aspects or vibes of the city inspire it and how?
LA’s architecture is so inspiring, it’s an incredible galleria
of modernism, in real size.
Favorite secret Los Angeles spot? I don't drive. I live
in Venice and bike everywhere so the whole neighborhood
is my secret spot in a city built for cars only.
Favorite Los Angeles meal? Ceviche tacos at the La Isla
Bonita truck on Rose, I love them so much!
05: NAMCHE BAZAAR
www.thenamchebazaar.com
Designer: Ainsley Cohen
Founded: 2014
Your brand in one sentence: Directional, casual dressing
for women
How long have you lived in Los Angeles? Since 2001
Is LA crucial to your brand DNA? I think my collection
could live anywhere, I find women in Los Angeles have
a very unique aesthetic, displaying sophistication in a way
which is so relaxed and casual and this feels very much
in line with the DNA of my collection.
What aspects or vibes of the city inspire it and how?
The lifestyle in Los Angeles is so easy and effortless, I try
to capture that in my clothing.
Favorite secret Los Angeles spot? My backyard.
Favorite Los Angeles meal? For a sit down meal I'd have
to go with Son of a Gun.
10
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 14
SEPTEMBER
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
NEW YORK WOMEN’S PREVIEW
NEW YORK WOMEN’S PREVIEW
THE INFLUENTIALS
At New York Women's, Sept. 17-19 – Pier 94
Nicola Fumo
JiaJia Fei
Liana Weston
Age: 26
Style & Shopping Editor, Racked
www.racked.com
@nicola_fumo (Twitter & Instagram)
@nicolafumo (Snapchat)
Age: 28
Associate Director, Digital Marketing at the
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum
www.jfei.net
@VAJIAJIA (Twitter & Instagram)
Age: 26
Talent and Bookings Manager at Into The Gloss/Glossier,
Entertainment Editor at Tidal magazine
www.glossier.com
@lianaweston (Instagram)
Influentials is kind of a nebulous term, sorry we know.
Describe how you’ve influenced someone (in a good or
bad way) recently:
I influenced my friend to stop sweating a dude who wasn't
acting very fast on setting up an actual day for their date.
“He's cute and seemingly cool, but so are lots of people.”
She chilled out immediately.
Influentials is kind of a nebulous term, sorry we know.
Describe how you’ve influenced someone (in a good or
bad way) recently:
I think art is very influential; it addresses some of life’s
most common questions, many of which have not changed
throughout the history of art and you see repeated in the
way people revisit the same subject matter over time in
visual culture, i.e. self-portraiture and selfies, landscapes
and sunsets, still life and food porn. On social media, I try
to take my followers to museums, galleries, and art spaces
normally inaccessible to the average person (because
let’s face it, most of these places are not), and make art
meaningful and influential to them.
Influentials is kind of a nebulous term, sorry we know.
Describe how you’ve influenced someone (in a good or
bad way) recently:
I've been very lucky to have worked in diverse but related
fields—editorial, fashion, photography, music, entertainment,
and now beauty. Looking back I realize the most treasured
takeaway from each of these experiences was having mentors
who let me benefit from their mistakes. We all make them.
I know I certainly do. Similarly I try to pass to on lessons to
those I work with on how they can learn from my missteps.
When I’m asked the inevitable ‘How did you get to where
you are?’ or ‘What advice do you have for someone trying to
break into the industry?’, I tell people not to be embarrassed
by setbacks—without them, moving forward would not be
nearly as meaningful.
What or who influences you?
Visiting new places (I have a soft spot for really mundane
places like Iowa and the things you can discover along the
way, like a bar whose house “cocktail” is orange Crush
and vodka—genius), Kylie Jenner's Snapchat, my grimey
teen years on the fringe of the DIY punk scene, restaurant
menu typography, what the people loitering outside of the
VFILES store are wearing, Monica Garza's paintings,
the paper illustrator Lorraine Nam.
What are some exciting influences you’ve noticed
in fashion collections recently?
I've enjoyed watching this lounge-y '70s silhouette come
into play and get more and more relaxed: the long tunics
over wide leg pants, the loose kimono-style tie belts,
bell sleeves. With all of the slipper-style shoes out there,
too, we're invited to dress like we're constantly hosing a
fabulous but chill cocktail party in a sunken living room
while vinyl records play and we collectively disregard
monogamy.
What’s the strangest, funniest or rudest thing someone
has said to you via commenting on your social feeds?
The most amazing reactions I've ever gotten on social
actually came after I was on a podcast hosted by fellow
Vox Media property The Verge. It's a tech site, and the
audience is so different from what I'm used to on Racked.
One guy “RLRT”-ed everything I said on the podcast
over Twitter; another person called me a "wonderful
orator." They both were, like, men in their 40s with ten
followers who live in Florida and Australia, respectively.
What or who influences you?
I am influenced by compelling image-makers who
create lasting images (in no particular order): Nan Goldin,
Sarah Moon, Louise Bourgeois, Laurie Simmons, Lorna
Simpson, Francesca Woodman, Carrie Mae Weems, Alex
Prager, Marilyn Minter, Linder, Egon Schiele, Yves Klein,
Man Ray, August Sander, Lee Friedlander, Nam June Paik,
Ryan McGinley, Camille Henrot, Lucas Samaras, Guy
Bourdin, Wong Kar Wai, David Lynch. I use my Tumblr
as a running list of people/images that inspire me.
What are some exciting influences you’ve noticed
in fashion collections recently?
I think it’s great when designers are influenced by visual
artists and vice-versa. In some ways clothes tell the history of culture more openly than art. Some favorites are
Yves Saint Laurent’s legendary Mondrian dress and more
recently Kenzo’s collaboration with Toilet Paper Magazine.
Opening Ceremony’s Magritte line was a really cute take
on my favorite Surrealist.
What’s the strangest, funniest or rudest thing someone
has said to you via commenting on your social feeds?
Every time I post a picture of my cat Coco, I get comments
from strangers claiming she looks exactly like another
cat they know. One day I will meet these alleged
doppelgänger cats.
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What or who influences you?
I’m starry-eyed when it comes to good life story. One of the
most rewarding parts of what I do is that oftentimes I meet
and get to know talent through assorted anecdotes about
how they ‘made it.’ This spans from the visible faces to the
not so visible who are working behind the scenes in makeup,
styling, production and so forth. I’m enamored and heavily
influenced by these narratives and the people sharing them,
including millenials of the phone-limbed generation. There’s
usually more rhyme and reason to that —highly curated—
Instagram than just a pretty filter.
AT CAPSULE
Capsule collaborates with ELEMENTs — the definitive
marketplace for established and emerging brands in the world
of beauty and fragrance design for SS16 to bring a great offering
of the world’s most sought-after collections. ELEMENTs will
allow retailers the opportunity to discover great non-fashion
offerings while shopping Capsule. The ELEMENTs show has
a great reputation for its directional brand assortment and
commitment to quality. It is a perfect complement to the Capsule
experience. Visit ELEMENTs at Capsule at the upcoming
New York Women’s show.
Special Blends
These ELEMENTs brands use unusual ingredients
to make their unique products
BALBEC
Good enough to eat, Balbec cleansers are
made from organic live yogurt, mineral-rich
clays, and organic and wildcrafted aromatherapeutic essential oils.
MINE LUXURY NAIL LACQUER
24K gold and other precious metals are hand
mixed and poured into an Austrian crystal
bottle for this decadently luxe nail lacquer.
What are some exciting influences you’ve noticed in
fashion collections recently?
Collections and their respective designers have always find
inspiration from life’s obscure crevices. What fascinates me
the most is observing the revolving door of seasonal ingénues.
They not only dictate the aesthetic of the brand,
but also impact the watchful tastemakers who eagerly wait
on the sidelines to decide which new muse they and the
industry will champion next. Perhaps the most significant
of those noteworthy names to make editorial, runway, and
campaign cameos of late are trans women and men who
are bringing fashion back to its cerebral core. It’s beyond
exciting to be able to work with talent who are more than just
a trending topic, but transformative figures whose influence
transcends what oftentimes feels like an insular community.
What’s the strangest, funniest or rudest thing someone
has said to you via commenting on your social feeds?
“Are you deleting my comments? They’re not showing
up anymore.” – @mymother, on multiple occasions.
MADAME LALA
Healthy self-tanning incorporating coco
water, vitamin C, aloe, and green tea to
counteract wrinkles and fine lines whilst
delivering an LA glow.
1ST FEMME
A new, simple approach to perfume, made
with a soft effervescent mix of freesia and
jasmine blossom, creamy silk vanilla and
fresh zesty touches of green.
Perspective:
Greg Armas
Greg Armas studied fine art and curatorial studies before turning to fashion, so it’s
no surprise that his boutique, Assembly,
has become known for its subtle curation
of international avant-garde designers
and hard to find labels. The shop which
blends art, music, design and clothes has
been located on New York’s Lower East
Side for several years, and a second location opened this summer in Los Angeles.
Armas is a young designer himself, and is
a CFDA finalist. His minimalist collection
for men and women is sold worldwide.
Thanks to his great eye, and ability to
spot talent, we’ve invited Greg to curate
a selection of designers with the vision,
design savvy and global audience that will
truly inspire you.
BRAND LIST:
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Assembly
Baserange
Cf Goldman
Clyde
Correll Correll
Markoo
Monika Wyndham
Pari Desai
Shaina Mote
Capsule
80 8th Ave #202
New York, NY 10011
CAPSULESHOW.COM