New York Fashion Week - ...ollections Trend Report



New York Fashion Week - ...ollections Trend Report
Yellow, in a slighter brighter shade was also dominant at Nanette Lepore. There was lots of
wearable dresses though nothing revolutionary. There was also a dance-­off at the end.
A soft yellow was also a standout at Tracy Reese. The designer was inspired by Martha Graham
and the show opened with modern dancers popping out of the front row for a quick performance.
Reese's use of black was strong and dancers clearly influenced the shapes of the clothes.
Reese also didn't shy away from her quirky colors and pattern mixes.
The peek-­a-­boo trend won't seem to die. It was all over for Fall, and reared its fashionable head
again this season not just in casual wear, but even in evening gowns. Critics weren't always
amused with the abdomen-­exposing evening gowns.
But Nicole Miller had a fresh take on the crop top.
Miller had a fun Rio-­inspired collection, and was one of the few designers to embrace bright
colors. Miller said, "I was listening to this old Peter Allen song (I go to Rio), which I actually used
for the finale.. this French version of it."
White was a big trend. It was the basis for many collections. Black was a popular color as
always.. Spring be damned. Faded neons popped up at a lot of shows too.
Famed New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham pointed out the popularity of the basic
dress shirt or shirt-­dress. A clean, crisp white dress shirt could be found everywhere.. including
on Linda Fargo from Bergdorf Goodman, and on designer Carolina Herrera who makes the shirt
a part of her signature look.
Jenna Lyons for J Crew showed a great take on that look with a denim shirt. It showed up in
many collections. Lyons seen her with J Crew women's wear designer in the photo below. J
Crew men's wear designer Frank Muytjens had a unique take on the mesh trend.. telling me,
"Spring 2015 was inspired by old pictures I found of Mediterranean fishing villages, and you can
see all these fisherman mending their nets at the docks. That transported me right back to my
childhood because I used to vacation in the South of France, and North of Spain with my family
when I was a kid so that was the starting point."
British designer Jenny Packham showed lots of sparkle. She had an interesting take on a white
top that shined for evening.
Up-­and-­coming designer Jonathan Simkhai said he was inspired by a broken glass this season.
He played with transparency and the reflection of light in his collection.
That was also the inspiration for the Christian Siriano show.. where the set played with
transparency, and he said he was inspired by the glass sculptures of Sergio Redegalli. The
Siriano silhouette had been cleaned up for Spring with a more quiet collection. The front row was
not quiet though with model Coca Rocha and Jada Pinkett Smith among those attracting the
Jonathan Simkhai also continued the innovative use of leather which has become something of
a signature of his. I asked him about the use of leather in his clothes, and he said "There's
something really sharp and clean (about it). There's a toughness to it. I like playing with feminine
and masculine, soft and hard. It adds another little twist."
Leather was a big trend too at the Skingraft show. There was a very cave-­man look to some of
the clothes, but some of the leather tops looked cool and modern. Designer Jonny Cota also had
a unique take on white shirting. Skingraft had a wild front-­row. Among those up front were
Whoopi Goldberg, Ally Hilfiger, Phillip Bloch, Will.i.Am and 2Chainz.
Joe Zee is Old Navy's style ambassador, and has just launched on online magazine for Yahoo!
Style. He pointed out the trend of oversize tops "contrast with something really feminine like a
flirty little skirt."
Rebecca Taylor and Lela Rose both showed flirty, feminine collections. Faded neons and quiet
pastels ruled the day. Both designers used florals strategically and to lovely effect.
Reem Acra had lots of lovely evening gowns. She told me her inspiration was "the 30's, 40's and
50's. I was thinking about my woman. How do I want to dress this woman who used to wear
couture in Paris. What would she wear in the States, in America in 2014? I transformed her look,
and made it more modern, translucent, transparent, sexy but I took the hand of the 30's to the
50's.. kept that couture hand and made it more modernized."
And New York Mayor Bill de Blasio's daughter Chiara sat front row at Anna Sui.. always a great
NYC show. She showed the once-­skeptical mayor and his family have fully embraced the
fashion biz.
And a fun finale for Project Runway included ice water dumped on Tim Gunn's head by Heidi
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