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C6 Sound Deadening & Insulation Kit
Interior Removal & Installation Instructions
Ok, let's start with taking the radio bezel dash area off first. Here is what the OEM radio looks like...
First you flip up the center console lid (on verts, you need to remove the waterfall first), and remove the 4
T15 Torx screws holding the lid on.
2005-2007Center Console Removal
Next, remove the plate covering the suspension ride control plug by gently prying up and back on the plate,
and then you will reveal 2 7mm bolts that need to be removed. Remove them, and DO NOT try to remove
the center console yet!! It does not come out yet, and forcing it to do so may break it!!
2008/2009 Center Console Removal
The center console on the 2008-up models is slightly different, in that there are (2) T15 Torx screws behind
“screw plug covers” instead of the 7mm bolts behind the ride control cover. The pictures above illustrate the
differences in the center console/ dash bezel. Take note of seat heaters, ride control switches, traction
control, power points, etc. to insure that all plugs will be unplugged in the removal process.
Now, you must remove the passenger side edging of the dash/center console/radio bezel. To do this, you
must lift up on the emergency brake boot by pulling up gently from the bottom edge of it. It is held on by 2
clips, and 2 retaining plastic “guide legs”. Remove the boot carefully, so as not to scratch the center console.
Remove the (2) 7 mm bolts hidden underneath, but do not yank on the dash bezel just yet...
Once you have them removed, you will notice in the next few pics how the 7mm bolts keep the side bezel
piece intact when removing the dash bezel.
The 7 mm bolts hold both the dash bezel, and the side piece to the center transmission tunnel area. Then
there are 2 clips retaining the side piece to the underside of the dash, next to the glove-box door on the
passenger side of the radio bezel. With the 7 mm bolts removed from under the emergency brake boot, you
can then move the side piece back towards the rear of the car, and release the forward clips from the dash.
Next, we gently pull on the dash/radio bezel to release the clips holding it in place.
Be sure to unplug the following plugs as you are removing the dash bezel:
Here at the hazard switch…
and the cigarette lighter plug…
and here, at the center console power point & traction control switch.
2005-2007 Bezel
this one is particularly stubborn... the cigarette lighter for the center console... the release clip that you press
down on is facing the top, and if you have big fingers, you can forget about getting that release clip pushed
in... my advice, use a right angle pick tool, and push down on the release clip as you are pulling the plug out.
At this point, you should have the dash bezel fully removed... here is the full dash bezel with the center
console lid sitting in the back of the C6, and the wiring that was unplugged.
Now there are (3) 10mm nuts to remove in order to remove the center console. The 1st one is pictured above,
just to the left of the 7mm screw holes, and behind the lock on the 2005/2006 models.
The other (2) 10mm nuts are just under the small cosmetic covers near the rear of the center console, below.
Now that the center console and dash bezel are removed, it is on to the floorboard & seats. ☺
Let’s do the floor first… the dead pedal, gas pedal riser, and door release cables.
Remove a total of (4) 10mm bolts, 2 from each part. See the pics below.
You need to remove the door release cables as well. Remove the screw covers and remove the screws with a
Torx T30 removal tool. Be careful to make sure that you don’t strip the head, as these bolts are tight.
To remove the seats, do so by following the steps below EXACTLY:
STEP #1: Remove the front seat bolt covers. Pull the center pins, then remove the clips & covers.
STEP #2: Remove the front bolts with a 15mm deep-well socket, and ratchet, or an impact ratchet.
STEP #3: Slide the seat partially forward, and remove the rear 15mm bolts.
STEP #4: Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery before moving on to the next steps.
STEP #5: Remove the 15mm seat belt bolt, and passenger side belt plug. Do this by slightly lifting, and
tilting the seat toward the center console tunnel to gain access to the seat belt bolt.
STEP #6: Tilt the seat back forward, then tilt the entire seat toward the rear of the car (leaving the seat back
locked in the tilted forward position). This allows you to gain access to the plugs under the seat.
ADVICE: Use a piece of wood, or a tool, to hold the seat up while you access the plugs under the seat.
The power seat plug is shown below. The airbag plug (yellow) is also to be unplugged.
STEP #7: Remove the seat. BE CAREFUL!! It is HEAVY & AWKWARD. Take your time, and do it
slowly so as not to scratch the door panels, or paint. I suggest lifting the seat, leaving the seat back forward,
and walking the front of the seat out first, turning yourself with your back to the door jamb to prevent the
paint from being scratched, and this also allows you to keep your eyes IN FRONT of you to concentrate on
NOT scratching the door panels.
Congrats!!! Now remove the carpet from the driver’s side floor, passenger side floor, and the back wall
behind the seats.
The following picture shows the car with the carpet and console removed.
Now, you can remove the door panels.
Remove the driver’s side cover to expose the (2) T30 screws holding the door panel on. On the passenger
side, the 2 screws are in a different location. One is located below the grab handle, and the other is behind
the upper door release switch. See the pics below:
Now comes the fun part: Pulling the door panel off; doing this will make you cringe every time you hear the
door panel clips work loose. 1st, you will want to get a grip. You can do this by grasping below the door
reflector. Pull forward with a tight and firm grip until you hear the clips release.
When you have the door panel off, unplug the main plug, which is exactly like the power seat plug. ☺
Now, we move to the rear cargo area. It will go quicker, and is easier to remove the pieces.
1st, remove the plastic trim around the rear roof mounts. Simply pull up on the trim, releasing the 3 clips.
Next, remove the 4 screw on caps, and the 2 push in clips that hold the rear wall carpet on.
Now, we can remove the rear carpet on the back wall, unplugging the cargo lights, and we can move onto
the cargo floor carpet. 1st, let’s remove the rear speaker covers and the upper halo to make things easier.
Below is a picture of the rear cargo area with the carpet removed.
REMOVE THE ROOF, and store in a different room to avoid damage.
First, remove the 4 push pins where the upper halo and each speaker panel meet. Remove the lower push pin
in the door jamb area of the rear speaker panel.
Now you can remove the upper halo. Pull down, working from one side to the other, releasing 3 clips along
the front, and 4 velcro strips along the rear.
Next, remove the rear speaker panels. It would help to have an extra hand to help out here.
Slide the boot around the rear cargo strut up, and unplug the rear window defroster wire.
Next, we need to loosen the clip that holds the strut in place.
NOTE: Have a 2 person hold the hatch up while you loosen the clip, allowing the strut to be removed from
the bottom. Do not remove the clip, just slide it out enough to pull the bottom strut mount loose.
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Once the strut is off the bottom location, set the strut so it rests against something, then proceed to remove
the rear speaker cover. It just has a few clips, so just take care in removing them gently. Once the speaker
plate is removed, you can reinstall the strut to the bottom mount. Do the same for the other side.
Now that everything is removed, the sound deadening can begin. ☺
Start with the floor, either side of the front cabin, and work your way back.
Install the driver’s side floor piece, labeled as such, lining up the pre-cut holes with the bolts. You will need
to make a cut in the insulation for the power seat and airbag wiring.
Go ahead and tape the edges of the floor piece down, and then lay out every other piece where it is labeled
to go. This helps to see what areas are covered, and where the seams are that need to be taped.
Work your way to the rear of the car, laying out the pieces, and taping them temporarily in place to make
sure you have a clear understanding of where everything is to go.
Begin taping your seams once the floor pieces are taped down to the floor. Taping the seams of the side
pieces to the bottom floor pieces, will allow the entire insulation kit to be securely installed.
The pictures below show the pieces installed, including wheel wells, rear speaker areas, door panel, and the
upper halo. 3OTE: you will have to trim the upper halo piece to fit due to the large pieces of foam
attached to the halo itself. Patience is required to install this kit, but it is well worth it!!