master grande tradition tourbillon cylindrique à

Transcription

master grande tradition tourbillon cylindrique à
THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE SPECIAL
Special SIHH 2013
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION
TOURBILLON CYLINDRIQUE À
QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL JUBILEE
1833 - 2013 • JUBILEE COLLECTION • RENDEZ-VOUS WATCHES • REVERSO ULTRA THIN
HISTORY SEEMS TO REPEAT ITSELF.
OURS CERTAINLY NOT.
During its 180 years of history, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre has created over 1,242 different mechanical movements.
This set reveals some of the 60 movements currently in production. An absolute record in watchmaking history.
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180 YEARS 03
1833 - 2013
1866
1833
180 years ago, Antoine LeCoultre set up his own
watchmaking workshop in the Vallée de Joux, a remote and
bitterly cold region of Switzerland. It was the stronghold of the
farmer-watchmakers who, over the generations and through
long and harsh winters, had become the masters of horological
complications. However, in creating his workshop in Le Sentier,
Antoine LeCoultre introduced a new concept: he united under
one roof all the formerly scattered watchmaking professions
and thereby founded what is now known as the Manufacture.
2013
Today, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, still located
in the place it was founded, brings together the essential
trades required to accomplish its watchmaking mission. The
entire personnel works under the same roof, masterfully exercising 180 precious skills in the fields of craftsmanship, sophisticated techniques and development. They perpetuate a longstanding, uninterrupted tradition that is nurtured by an equally
constant determination to innovate.
1844
2013
1844
The founder of Jaeger-LeCoultre was obsessed with
precision, which he rightly saw as the prerequisite for creating
the finest possible watches. He endured countless sleepless
nights in his quest to ensure the precision of the parts he produced: wheels, pinions and gears. In 1844, his endeavours led
to the invention of the “Millionometer”, the first instrument in
watchmaking history capable of guaranteeing micron-level
accuracy – meaning to the nearest millionth of a meter or
thousandth of a millimeter!
2013
The Millionometer was to give rise to an authentic
philosophy of precision. Today, no less than 1,242 different
mechanical calibres have been and still are being produced by
the Manufacture, including 190 chronograph calibres and
over 200 minute repeater calibres. This amounts to an incomparable treasure trove that is duly protected by 398 patents
registered over a history that is constantly enriched by new
horological feats.
2012
04 180 YEARS europa star
1929
1:1
1929
The degree of precision achieved by means of the
Millionometer and its descendants paved the way for the
miniaturisation of parts, which in turn gave rise to a number
of genuine achievements. The most complicated calibres could
be envisaged in previously unimaginably diminutive sizes.
1929 saw the birth of Calibre 101, one of the world’s smallest
mechanical movements which is still produced to this day.
2013
Since Calibre 101, innovation has repeatedly risen
to new heights. The most amazing complications have been
introduced, while never losing sight of their horological objectives: precision, functionality, readability and beauty. Since
2004, an impressive stream of the most original complications
and the most astonishing innovations has been pouring from
the Manufacture – and this wellspring of innovation shows no
sign of drying up.
2006
1928
1928
With the invention of the Atmos® clock, JaegerLeCoultre gave the world the object that comes closest to the
dream of perpetual motion. Drawing its entire sum of energy
from the smallest variations in temperature, this clock singlehandedly sums up the quest of the Manufacture: high precision,
unfailing reliability, exceptional innovation and sustainability.
2013
More than 80 years after its invention, the Atmos®
clock is still manufactured according to the same standards of
excellence. Whereas its almost perpetual operating principle
remains the same as ever, it has adopted a contemporary exterior, diversified its functions and been enriched with complications – while continuing to live exclusively on air.
2003
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180 YEARS 05
THE QUEST FOR PRECISION
The Master Tourbillon watch won first prize in the 2009
International Chronometry Competition, held under the
auspices of the Besançon Observatory.
1992
1992
A little over 20 years ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre imposed
a series of extremely stringent tests conducted on each finished watch: the 1000 Hours Control. For almost six weeks,
the watch would have to endure tough trials reproducing and
even considerably exceeding the conditions in which it would
actually be worn. This marked the birth of a new and particularly intransigent watchmaking quality norm within the
Manufacture.
2013
Rating regularity, extreme temperatures, atmospheric pressure, resistance to shocks and to magnetic fields,
watertightness: the precision of watches emerging from the
Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is confirmed by a seal or by the
inscription “1000 Hours Control” placed or engraved on the
back of each watch that has successfully passed this battery of
merciless tests. A sure token of respect and durability.
1833 - 2013 and beyond...
In setting up his first watchmaking workshop regrouping all professions under one
roof, Antoine LeCoultre laid the founding
principles that have governed JaegerLeCoultre’s activity ever since: making horological history by respecting its most traditional values of fine workmanship, while
overturning the status quo, pushing boundaries and revolutionising technologies. This
is accomplished by constantly innovating in
order to forge the future of watchmaking
–a future enriched by the wealth of its past.
06 JUBILEE COLLECTION europa star
Designed as a sparkling tribute to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 180 years distinguished by a unique spirit
of innovation, the ”Tribute to Antoine LeCoultre” Jubilee Collection offers three watches featuring
distinctive characteristics highlighting three fundamental fields of expertise cultivated by the
Manufacture: absolute innovation in the field of Grandes Complications, with the Master Grande
Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee watch; perfect execution dedicated to serving performance, with
the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee; and pure
performance within the framework of particularly demanding constraints, with the Master Ultra
Thin Jubilee, one of the thinnest mechanical manually-wound movements in the world.
MASTER GRANDE TRADITION
GYROTOURBILLON 3 JUBILEE
013, the jubilee year, sees the arrival of the Master
Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee watch. The
third Grande Complication model to be equipped
with a Gyrotourbillon movement, it boasts two world-first
achievements: a new balance-spring that is no longer “only”
cylindrical, but spherical; and the first time that a Grande
Complication model is equipped with an instant digital-display chronograph controlled by a single push-piece!
The cylindrical balance-spring in the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2
watch was already a major feat both in technical terms and
because of the workmanship it involves. However, the new
and unprecedented spherical balance-spring used in the
Gyrotourbillon 3 movement embodies an authentic performance. It is an unprecedented technical accomplishment that
required over two years of development. And when one considers that two full days are required to make a single spherical
balance-spring, that gives a better idea of the extreme difficulty
of the task that calls for unique expertise exclusively developed
by the Manufacture. Crafting it involves progressive coiling of
the spring around a metal sphere that will give it the required
shape. Yet the whole difficulty then lies in removing the cylindrical balance-spring from the sphere without touching or spoiling
the shape of the coils themselves… Equipped with two terminal curves ensuring perfectly concentric and regular “breathing”, it guarantees exceptional performance, comparable to
that of the cylindrical balance-spring, while also putting on a
spectacular show. Blued to accentuate its beauty, it is fixed to
the centre of a 14-carat gold balance-wheel that is also given
the same hue by means of a very special treatment. Gold is first
PVD-coated with a thin (less than 5-micron) layer of iron that is
then oxidised in a kiln to create its remarkable colour.
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The blued balance-spring and balance-wheel enliven the double spherical carriage of the Gyrotourbillon 3 movement. The
two carriages are made from a new type of aluminium. While
the great advantage of aluminium lies in its extreme lightness
and the performance of a tourbillon is directly influenced by
the lightness of its carriage, it is also a metal that only dimly
reflects light in darkened surroundings. To eliminate this flaw,
a new procedure has been developed using a PVD treatment
to coat the aluminium with a very fine layer of palladium, followed by a galvanic treatment that adds a layer of rhodium –
resulting in unprecedented brilliance.
The appealing visual effect is further accentuated by the transparent context within which it is positioned. In the absence of
a bridge, this flying Gyrotourbillon 3 movement creates the
impression of being suspended in mid-air and of rotating in
an apparently weightless state.
The second feature of this Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon
3 Jubilee watch is its instantaneous digital-display chronograph function – a first in the field of Grande Complication
models. The minutes are displayed in a broad aperture (4.5 x 3
mm) on two instant-jump discs: one for the units and the
other for the tens. The aperture appears inside a subdial at 9
o’clock indicating the chronograph seconds. Above it, one can
clearly see the integrated column-wheel chronograph govern-
JUBILEE COLLECTION 07
ing the chronograph function. Its activation and the starting,
stopping and resetting of the digital chronograph functions are
all controlled via a single push-piece at 2 o’clock. Meanwhile, a
day/night indicator at 3 o’clock orbits inside a circular 24-hour
graduated scale. On the upper level, above the Gyrotourbillon 3
movement, two blued hands indicate the hours and minutes
on an opaline dial.
All these indications and functions are harmoniously and legibly accommodated inside a case that is just 15.5 mm thick
and 43.5 mm in diameter. Directly inspired by the grand historical tradition of pocket-watches from the Manufacture, this
case made from extra-white 950 platinum (950o/oo platinum
and 50o/oo ruthenium) clearly belongs to the Master Control
line, but has been rethought in all its details so as to endow it
with an even higher degree of aesthetic refinement. Its bezel
has been slimmed down and its curves are accentuated. Its
sides are satin-brushed and its bezel and lugs are polished.
The same decorative care has been lavished on making its
movement. Inspired by a movement made by Jacques-David
LeCoultre in 1898, this new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 176
(21,600 vibrations per hour, 50-hour power-reserve) is made
from nickel silver. Its bridges and mainplate are hand-hammered – a long and accurate process calling for expertise and
dexterity and conducted in harmony with the highest traditional watchmaking criteria.
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MASTER GRANDE TRADITION
TOURBILLON CYLINDRIQUE À
QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL JUBILEE
n 1889, at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, JaegerLeCoultre (known at the time as the Manufacture
LeCoultre) was awarded a gold medal. The latter
rewarded the company “for the use of cutting-edge equipment and the impeccable production of its complicated calibres, chronographs and repeaters”.
A reproduction of this finely engraved gold medal appears on
the oscillating weight of the new Master Grande Tradition
Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. It thereby
serves as a vivid reminder of the pioneering role played by the
Manufacture, as well as symbolically reaffirming the extraordinary continuity of this innovative spirit that has been its driving
force throughout its 180 years of watchmaking history.
This new watch is the perfect epitome of this proud heritage.
Directly inspired by the splendid pocket-watches made by the
Manufacture in the late 19th century, it now appears in a new
42 mm-diameter, 13.1 mm thick case made of extra-white
950 platinum.
The slimmer bezel provides an optimally broad scope for its
extremely classic grained silver-toned dial: a slender tradi-
I
tional minute circle, baton-shaped hour-markers, a date subdial at 9 o’clock, month and year subdial at 12 o’clock, and a
day subdial surrounding the moon phase at 3 o’clock. All
these indications are clearly and easily readable above the
tourbillon revealed at 6 o’clock. The latter is a flying tourbillon,
meaning without any upper bridge, a feature that endows it
with exceptional transparency and depth. This transparency
enables an unobstructed view of the extraordinary beating of
the rare cylindrical balance-spring at its heart. Nonetheless,
however refined and subtle, this is merely the visual expression of a greater technical reality.
Thanks to its perfectly isochronous development ensured by
its two terminal curves, this cylindrical balance-spring that
entails an extremely complex production process ensures the
high-precision rating of the new automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre
Calibre 985 equipping this Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon
Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee. Despite its technically innovative nature, the classic and beautifully balanced
appearance of this timepiece makes it look as if it has quite
simply always existed.
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MASTER ULTRA THIN JUBILEE
n 1907, Jaeger-LeCoultre developed LeCoultre Calibre
145. At just 1.38 mm thick, it is still the thinnest mechanism ever made by the Manufacture. Although produced right through to the 1960s, this movement was manufactured in a total run of only 400 – eloquently illustrating the
complexity of the task it represents.
I
To mark its 180th anniversary, it was entirely natural for
Jaeger-LeCoultre to celebrate in a special way its pioneering
role in the field of ultra-thin watches and movements. As thin
as a knife-blade, the water-resistant case of the Master Ultra
Thin Jubilee watch is just 4.05 mm thick and 39 mm in diameter. Inside it beats manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre
Calibre 849. Composed of 123 parts and measuring 1.85
mm thick, the latter is equipped with a bridge-free barrel and
an extremely small escapement. It is thus one of the world’s
thinnest movements and above all, beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour, it has consistently demonstrated exceptional
rating qualities and excellent reliability since 1994. Its
assembly, adjustment and extremely fine rating also call for
particular care.
This exceptional movement is given a new showcase in the
Master Ultra Thin Jubilee watch made of extra-white 950 platinum. Radiating absolute stylistic purity, the watch features
an immaculate grained silver-toned dial bearing slender and
elegant baton-shaped hour-markers swept over by two slim
baton-shaped hands. Beneath the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature,
the transferred date “1833” offers a discreet reminder of the
founding date of the Manufacture.
JUBILEE COLLECTION 09
10 MASTER ULTRA THIN europa star
Focusing intensely on purity, pushing the boundaries of watchmaking slenderness in a tireless
quest for absolute excellence: such is the ultimate aim of the Master Ultra Thin collection. This
apparent simplicity calls for peerless horological and technical mastery.
MASTER ULTRA
THIN PERPETUAL
he new Master Ultra Thin Perpetual epitomises
the essence of watchmaking elegance by offering
the ultimately refined expression of one of the
most traditional complex functions: the perpetual calendar.
Its pure and perfectly balanced dial ideally mirrors this pursuit of the absolute in watchmaking. The three month, day
and date displays are arranged to ensure harmony and optimal readability. They are topped by an impeccably classic
moon-phase indication. A discreet aperture at 7.30 reveals
the additional year indication. The surface reveals no hint of
the extreme complexity embodied in the new Jaeger-LeCoultre
Calibre 868. Housed inside an extremely elegant new case
measuring just 9.2 mm thick and 39 mm in diameter, this
automatic movement drives these indications with incomparable reliability.
The Master Ultra Thin Perpetual watch is available in 18-carat
white gold with a grained silver-toned dial, or in an 18-carat
pink gold version with an eggshell-white dial – both fitted
with an alligator leather strap.
T
MASTER
ULTRA
THIN 41
T
he Master Ultra Thin 41 watch (named after its 41
mm diameter) is undoubtedly the purest embodiment of the philosophy behind the Ultra Thin
collection.
Its new 7.48 mm thick case forms a perfect circle, extended by
slender and subtle lugs and framing a dial entirely free of any
superfluous ornamentation. In this model, the sole ornament is
time itself, soberly indicated by two dauphine hands sweeping
around a beautifully clear eggshell-white dial in the 18-carat
gold version, or a sunburst silver-toned face in the stainless
steel version.
It is powered by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898C, a mechanical
automatic movement beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour
and guaranteeing a 43-hour power-reserve.
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MASTER CONTROL 11
MASTER
TOURBILLON
DUALTIME
reated in 2006, the tourbillon movement of
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 978 became a legend
by winning the 2009 International Chronometry
Competition. While the same calibre powers the new Master
Tourbillon Dualtime watch, the architecture of its tourbillon carriage has been entirely rethought with tauter, purer lines providing a broad and luminous view of the rotations of the tourbillon. Its 18-carat pink gold case (41.5 mm in diameter, 12 mm
thick) has been redesigned in the same spirit of maximum
openness. Its slimmer bezel with its softer lines and slender lugs
ensures plentiful breathing space for the sunburst silver-toned
dial featuring a well-ordered lay-out: a pointer-type date display
on a graduated scale; a traditional minute circle; along with a
24-hour dual time-zone display in the upper central area.
This model is the epitome of self-evident style, prefiguring the new
aesthetic of the complication models in the Master Control line.
C
MASTER
CALENDAR
ith its essential indications – hour, minute,
date, day, month, small seconds and moon
phase – the Master Calendar watch is one of
the absolute icons in the Master Control collection. Perfectly
embodying a watchmaking philosophy eager to marry mechanical relevance, readability and elegance, it has been redesigned
according to the new aesthetic codes governing the Master
Control line. Its slimmer bezel accentuates the purity of its
sunburst silver-toned dial. Its finer lugs endow it with an aura
of distinction, and its smaller dimensions (10.6 mm thick combined with a discreet and nicely balanced 39 mm diameter)
are the quintessence of simple elegance. Crafted in 18-carat
pink gold or stainless steel, it is steadily and reliably driven by
automatic-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 866.
W
The pure, timeless style of a grand classic, faithfully conveying the technical performance, the reliability and the diversity of the useful horological functions developed by the Manufacture. The
Master Control collection, of which the “1000 Hours Control” movements incorporate the latest
technical innovations from Jaeger-LeCoultre, combine efficiency, reliability and timeless elegance.
12 RENDEZ-VOUS europa star
While the name Rendez-Vous is a nod to the variety of elements that are the spice of life, such as
encounters, friendships and romance, it also evokes the rendezvous between Haute Horlogerie and
Haute Joaillerie. Under the distinguished auspices of Art Nouveau and Art Deco, the nobility of
traditional watchmaking is interpreted in a resolutely feminine mode.
utward beauty and inner beauty, the former
faithfully reflecting the latter, meet and mingle
in the ultra-feminine Rendez-Vous collection. A
collection that is now further enriched to offer women with a
penchant for fine watchmaking a complete line of precious
timepieces – ranging from the most classic models to Grande
Complication creations and the expression of rare crafts.
O
This collection of round watches is designed in harmony with
the style precepts of Art Deco. The dials are adorned with
rounded structures layered over several levels, along with subtle guilloché motifs, mother-of-pearl marquetry and beaded
minute circles. Nonetheless, this rich historical legacy gives
rise to an entirely contemporary style radiating from the
Rendez-Vous line. The display of the time and the functions
remains eminently legible, while the remarkably gentle and
yet distinctive graphic design of the numerals endows them
with an easily recognisable identity.
This outward sophistication and elegance, consistently
enhanced by a setting of diamonds, reflect the inner beauty of
a line that seeks to satisfy a growing number of women attentive to the grand watchmaking traditions. Apart from one
model, Rendez-Vous is a line exclusively equipped with mechanical automatic movements that are some of the slimmest,
smallest and most precious of the many movements developed by the Manufacture. Clearly visible through the sapphire
crystal back of the watch, finished and decorated in the finest
horological tradition, their somewhat secretive inner beauty is
exquisitely matched by the outward radiance of these RendezVous watches.
RENDEZ-VOUS CELESTIAL
deep and intensely blue sky, representing and
indicating the path of the constellations of the
northern hemisphere, the zodiac signs and the
months, now orbits with extreme precision on the guilloché
lapis lazuli dial of the Rendez-Vous Celestial watch.
Hovering above this sky and standing out against a subtly
guilloché base composed of tiny blue waves, the applied
numerals characteristic of all Rendez-Vous watches are
arranged in a crescent shape. A mysterious star-shaped hand
sweeps over these hours, delicately indicating the time chosen
for an upcoming rendezvous. This romantic star is adjustable
A
via a crown set with an inverted diamond at 2 o’clock. Running
around this subtly layered dial is a row of diamonds set on the
bezel and flowing onto the slender lugs of the 18-carat white
gold 37.5 mm-diameter case.
Driven by automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 809, the RendezVous Celestial radiates an enchanting beauty.
A magic born from the encounter between a subtle mechanical complication and the splendour of the constellations. A
watch epitomising the encounter between refined watchmaking and romantic elegance.
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RENDEZ-VOUS 13
14 RENDEZ-VOUS europa star
RENDEZ-VOUS
NIGHT & DAY
RENDEZ-VOUS
DATE BICOLOR
he Rendez-Vous Date watch adopts a new face this
year with this two-tone interpretation mingling 18carat pink gold and stainless steel, thus providing a
demonstration of its extremely versatile character. It adapts
smoothly and easily to all daytime situations, while also attuning
itself to the magic of glamorous evenings. Whether sunny by day
or sparkling by night with its slender crown set with brilliantcut diamonds, it is the ideal companion for any rendezvous.
Its dial is graced with golden hour numerals featuring a subtle
Art Deco inspired graphic design. They stand out against a
background adorned with a delicately guilloché motif of sunbeams that are even finer on the central disc. The latter has a
cut-out section at the base designed to make room for the
date display appearing at 6 o’clock.
The solid caseback is engraved with motifs also evoking the sun
and its rays or a star-studded sky, surrounded by a slender graduated scale symbolically connecting the celestial movements to
the measurement of time. The Rendez-Vous Date Bicolor watch
is driven by Jaeger-LeCoultre quartz Calibre 688. Its subtle and
slender 34 mm-diameter case is water-resistant to 3 bar.
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irst presented in 2012, this year the Rendez-Vous
Night & Day watch appears in shining new apparel.
Its 18-carat pink gold 36 mm-diameter case is delicately set with diamonds running around the bezel and
smoothly accentuating the lower section of the case middle
and the gentle profile of the lugs.
On its dial, the central disc rimmed by a delicate line of very
fine diamonds is softly cut-out to reveal a semi-circular display
that gives the Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch its name. It
shows the passing indication of night and day through a
delightfully lyrical motif revolving over a full 24 hours and
alternately composed of a sun and then a moon against a starstudded background. These subtly stylised motifs echo the
applied numerals on the dial, with a typography that has been
subtly redesigned to enhance both their readability and their
aesthetic appeal. Driven by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 898A, a
mechanical automatic movement comprising 204 parts, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and endowed with a 43hour power-reserve, the Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch is as
quintessentially horological as it is exquisitely feminine.
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choing the 2009 encounter between Diane Kruger
and the Manufacture, the Rendez-Vous collection
pays eloquent tribute to the personality of this stellar actress. Her innate grace, her cosmopolitan spirit and her
choices inspired the feminine world of Jaeger-LeCoultre. A
world with no compromises, in which beauty and refinement
are expressed through each beat of the mechanisms driving
Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Jaeger-LeCoultre
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RENDEZ-VOUS 15
its creations. Ballerina, fashion model, actress, and quite simply a woman, Diane Kruger has always managed to conduct
every moment of her life with self-assured determination, perpetually reinventing herself while losing nothing of her natural finesse and elegance. The same can be said for the feminine
creations that continue to forge the legend of Jaeger-LeCoultre
and testify to the brand’s amazing creative liberty.
16 REVERSO europa star
The Reverso, a cult-watch notably famous for the countless interpretations made possible by its legendary
swivel case, requires no introduction. Among these expressions, there is one that splendidly epitomises
the versatile and ever-changing nature of this watch that adapts so beautifully to all the various “times”
of daily existence: the feminine Reverso Duetto and the masculine Reverso Duo. These twin-faced,
twin-time watches are now making their grand entrance into the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin line.
GRANDE REVERSO LADY
ULTRA THIN DUETTO DUO
nvented in 1997, the Duetto concept gives two different faces to a single watch. But above and beyond
these amazing expressive possibilities, it also represents an authentic horological performance when one considers that in addition to the two faces, two different times –
thus two different time zones –may be displayed on either
side by a single movement and adjusted via a single crown.
This year, this magnificent horological and aesthetic concept is
applied for the first time to the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra
Thin line. Launched in 2011, this supremely slender and classically elegant line provides a perfectly proportioned 8.8 mm
showcase for these truly unique twin faces.
The daytime side of the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin
Duetto Duo offers a classically balanced contemporary face.
Around its silver-toned dial, the twelve stamped hour numerals shine brightly against a sunburst guilloché background.
In the centre, a cartouche surrounded by a slender beaded
I
motif further underscores the strength of this supremely pure
radiant motif. The night-time face offers a striking contrast. At
the centre sits a mother-of-pearl disc simply bearing the number 12, surrounded by a splendid radiating mother-of-pearl
marquetry pattern that displays Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mastery in
the field of rare professions. Three mother-of-pearl colours
form subtly graded shades of pale pink – in the 18-carat pink
gold version of the watch – or grey in the stainless steel version. The precious character of this nocturnal face is further
emphasised by two rows of diamonds set at the top and bottom of the swivel case. Fitted with an alligator leather strap,
the Grande Reverso Lady Ultra Thin Duetto Duo watch is driven by a single mechanical manually-wound movement,
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 865, derived from the famous
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 854 that gave rise to the Reverso
Duo watch.
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REVERSO 17
GRANDE REVERSO ULTRA
THIN DUO
nently contemporary new dimensions, slenderness and technical sophistication.
On one side, it offers a satin-brushed velvet-finish silver-toned
dial on the stainless steel model, or an opaline silver-toned
version for the 18-carat pink gold version. This face displays
the traditional Reverso minute track and a small seconds display surrounded by its own rectangular minute track.
On the other, it displays a second time-zone complete with a 24hour day/night indicator featuring graduated circles standing
out against a black velvet-finish background with a guilloché
Clous de Paris pattern. A push-piece subtly recessed into the
caseband serves to adjust the time zone in one-hour increments.
Understated, faithful to the stylistic codes of its lineage,
focused on essentials and profoundly horological, the Grande
Reverso Ultra Thin Duo boldly reaffirms the iconic stature of
the Reverso watch.
eveloped in 1994 and composed of 180 parts,
the rectangular-shaped, 3.8 mm thick mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre
854 is now famous. It is indeed the only movement capable of
driving two different hour and minute indications, positioned
back to back and thus turning in two different directions. This
outstanding horological achievement has enabled the creation of the Reverso Duo which, in accordance with the collection’s signature characteristics, is a watch displaying a different time zone on either side of its reversible case.
An evolved version of this movement, Calibre 854/1, made it
possible to create the new Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duo
watch. The new ultra-thin case housing it features undeniably
elegant proportions: 46.8 mm long, 27.4 mm wide and just
9.15 mm thick (or rather thin). Admirably connecting yesterday – 1931, the birth date of the Reverso – with today, it
features two faces each inspired by separate historical models that it combines within its unique swivel case. In addition, it enriches the grand watchmaking tradition with emi-
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18 JAEGER-LECOULTRE DEEP SEA CHRONOGRAPH europa star
The story of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea line is an epic adventure. In 1959, already in the
vanguard of technology and innovation, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Memovox Deep Sea,
the first automatic diver’s watch to be equipped with a mechanical alarm. The Manufacture
did not merely adorn the dial with a few maritime references, but instead developed a watch
entirely designed to meet divers’ expectations. This achievement was exceptional for the time
thanks to the acoustic indication designed to warn divers of the moment they should begin
their progressive ascent to the surface. In 2012, this legendary model was equipped with a
chronograph function; and this year, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph appears clad
in a new alloy: reinforced cermet.
JAEGER-LECOULTRE DEEP SEA
CHRONOGRAPH CERMET
s its name implies, cermet is a ceramic and metal
composite material. It is widely used in the world
of aeronautics, in racing car engines, and for certain electronic components. It boasts several key assets: its
lightness (33% lighter than titanium), its ruggedness (it is
more shock-resistant than ceramics), its comfort on the wrist, its
ability to withstand scratches and heat, as well as its impressive durability. Cermet is made by incorporating ceramic
microspheres into an aluminium base. This operation results in
a block from which the case is machined. The latter is then
coated, by means of a thermal treatment known as ceramisation, with a 40-micron protective layer.
The case of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph
Cermet diver’s watch measures 44 mm in diameter and is
faithful to the design of the original model. Fitted with a
waterproof Trieste leather strap, the watch is water-resistant
to 10 bar. It is also equipped with a rotating bezel. A frogman
surrounded by bubbles is engraved on the reinforced cermet
caseback. White superluminova-enhanced hour-markers and
three chronograph counters stand out against its black dial.
On the dial of the watch, below the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature, a round aperture is dedicated to the chronograph operating indicator. It is composed of two discs – one white and
the other red – which provide the necessary information
regarding the state of the chronograph, and do so without
any risk of error. When the display is white, the chronograph is
ready to be activated in order to begin measuring a given
time. Once the chronograph has started, the indicator window
simultaneously shows both the red and white colours in order
to signal the fact that a measurement is in progress. Finally,
A
once the chronograph is stopped, the red disc appears alone
in the window to indicate that the measurement performed
may now be consulted before the chronograph is reset. This
specific feature is inspired by an historical accomplishment by
Jaeger-LeCoultre: the chronoflight, an onboard instrument
invented in the 1930s.
At the heart of this ultra-sturdy case beats Jaeger-LeCoultre
Calibre 758: a mechanical automatic movement boasting
tried and tested reliability. Beating at a cadence of 28,800
vibrations per hour, it has a 65-hour power-reserve.
SPHÉROTOURBILLON (0,000558 KG) VS. EARTH (5 973 600 000 000 000 000 000 000 KG).
A FAIR GAME?
DUOMÈTRE SPHÉROTOURBILLON. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 382.
On the one hand, a planet and its incredible power of attraction. On the other,
a complex mechanism weighing less than one gram.The Duomètre Sphérotourbillon
features a multi-axis tourbillon capable of compensating for the effects of gravity in
all positions. The ingenious Dual-Wing concept once again paves the way for
extraordinary functions: this exceptional model can lay claim to being the first
multi-axis tourbillon watch adjustable to the nearest second thanks to the small
seconds flyback system.
YOU DESERVE A REAL WATCH.
Jaeger-LeCoultre in partnership with UNESCO to raise awareness and protect
marine World Heritage. A real commitment to a precious cause.
www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

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