Sew Easy Pillows

presents
4
FREE
SEWING
GUIDES
Sew Easy Pillows
1
2
1
3
Home-Dec Trims
by Trenia Bell
2
Pillow Talk
by Pam Archer
3
Repurposed Runner
by Rebecca Brent Kemp
4
Rethinking Wool
by Linda Lee
4
4
FREE
SEWING
GUIDES
Sew Easy Pillows
Learn how to quickly and easily update your home décor by
creating unique designer pillows in these four how-to sewing
guides. Follow the must-have tips for embellishing home-dec
projects in “Home-Dec Trim,” and then make three eye-catching
pillows using your new skills. In “Pillow Talk,” discover how to
update a ready-made pillow by creating a stylish wrap. “Repurposed Runner” shows you a clever way to recycle a table runner into a pair of new pillows. Find out how to use wool to
stitch stunning throw pillows in “Rethinking Wool.” Add these
simple pillow projects to your sewing to-do list to add fun and
flair to your home décor!
Happy sewing!
Beth Bradley
Associate Editor, Sew News
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1
Home-Dec Trims ..............................................PAGE 1
2
Pillow Talk..................................................PAGE 6
3
Repurposed Runner .................................PAGE 10
4
Rethinking Wool .........................................PAGE 12
how to
Basics
H
K
I
J
E
C
H
Home-Dec
Trims
BY TRENIA BELL
ADDING DECORATOR TRIMS
to your home-décor projects adds
excitement and elegance.With a
little knowledge of trim types and
these expert sewing tips, you’ll tackle
trim sewing without trepidation.
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Trim Types
Braid trim (C) is usually a flat, often multi-
woven tape header that has small balls or
yarn pom-poms attached at approximately
2” intervals. An informal fringe, its best
use is for accessories in children’s rooms,
kitchens and laundry rooms.
color intertwined yarn trim, usually ¾”
or wider. Use it on flat applications—the
lead edge of a drapery, lower edge of a
roman shade, inset box on a pillow top or
to cover raw edges of any fabric stapled
edge (i.e.—fabric screen, footstool or
upholstered wall).
Bead fringe (B) incorporates strands of
Gimp (D) is the smaller cousin of braid.
beads sewn onto utility tape.The tape
is inserted in the seam so that only the
beads show on the outside of the seam.
It’s recommended to sew beaded fringe
by hand.
Usually about ½” wide and a single color,
its primary use is to cover staples and to
edge outer seams. Gimp can also be used
as a small outline trim on needlepoint
pillows or to subtly decorate a seam.
Ball or pom-pom fringe (A) is made of a
F
A
D
G
B
Brush fringe (E) consists of multiple yarn
Chainette (G) looks like bullion fringe but
Ribbon (I) comes in almost every color and
strands that are attached on one end to
a header tape and are loose on the other
end, creating a fluffy edge. Use brush
fringe in pillow seams and on shaped
valance hems.
is smaller in scale and more delicate. Find
creative uses for chainette on small decorating projects, roll shades, silk pillows or
majorette costumes.
many widths. Ribbon fringe works well
as a stylish pillow edge, and flat ribbon
makes a neat lightweight banding or
edge finish. Layer ribbons of varying
widths to add depth and interest.
Bullion fringe (F) is twisted yarn fringe on
a braid header.This fringe ranges from
3” to 8” in length. Use it to edge skirted
furniture and on table skirts that hang to
the floor. It also provides correct scale
when used on large window treatments.
Twisted cord (H) is probably the most
commonly used and versatile of all trims.
It’s generally a solid color or three colors
twisted together in barber-pole fashion.
Drape the plain version over panels or
swags.The lipped version is used mainly
on decorator pillows. Embellish the edges
of any board-mounted custom window
treatment.Twisted cord is also effective in
small amounts on custom upholstery.
Tassel fringe (J) has individual tassels on a
braided tape at even intervals. Machinemade tassel fringe is more lightweight
and fragile than handmade tassel fringe.
Onion fringe (K) is tassel fringe that’s been
tied twice to add a touch of class.
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1
On a Roll
2
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Fabric
7 1⁄3 yard of 60”-wide decorator fabric
7 1⁄3 yard of 60”-wide coordinating fabric
Other
7 9”x 18” roll pillow form
7 Two 1” covered-button forms
7 1⁄4 yard of tassel trim
7 2⁄3 yard of strong nylon cord
7 2 yards of coordinating trim
7 Doll-making or upholstery needle
7 Matching all-purpose thread
7 Light-bond fabric glue
3
Cut a 12”x 30” rectangle from the deco-
Center trim over
seamlines
Center the pillow form inside the cover, and
bring the excess fabric to the center of
each form end.The cover’s edges should
just meet. Cut away any excess fabric.
Remove the cover and serge or zigzag the
raw edges to prevent raveling.
Using buttonhole or quilting thread, hand
sew a gathering stitch at each end. Insert
the pillow form and gather the thread
tightly on each end; secure with a few
backstitches. Knot the thread and clip the
thread tails close to the knot (3).
Cover two buttons with the decorator
rator fabric. Cut two 10”x 30” rectangles
from the coordinating fabric.
fabric according to the manufacturer’s
directions.
Using the long needle and strong cord,
Right sides together, align one 30” coor-
Gather; clip
threads
dinating fabric edge with one 30” edge
of the decorator fabric; stitch. Repeat to
join the second coordinating fabric rectangle to the opposite decorator fabric
edge. Press open the seam allowances.
Cut two tassel sections from the tassel
Use a light bond fabric glue to baste the
trim over the seamlines; stitch the trim
to secure (1).
4
Wrong side out, wrap the cover around
the pillow form to the desired fit; mark
the seamline.
Buttons
Use your choice of fabric
and trims to make this trio
of porch pillows. Use a 5⁄8” seam
allowance for all three pillows
unless otherwise specified.
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center one button on each end. Attach
the buttons together with the cord,
stitching through the center of the
pillow form (4). Pull the cord firmly
to tuft the buttons; tie off securely.
Remove the pillow form and
stitch the seamline with the
fabric right sides together,
forming a tube (2). Trim
the seam allowance to ¼”,
and turn the cover right
side out.The tube will
be longer than the
pillow form.
trim. Secure one tassel section under each
button with a small amount of trim glue.
Boxes and Bows
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Fabric
7 1⁄2 yard of 45”-wide cotton or decorator fabric
Other
7 2 yards of 11⁄4”-wide polka dot
grosgrain ribbon
7 1 yard of 3⁄4”-wide contrast grosgrain ribbon
7 Matching all-purpose thread
7 12”x 16” pillow form
7 Removable fabric-marking pen
7 Quilter’s triangle
7 1” covered button form
fabric along the
marked line;
carefully trim the
excess ribbon fold
¼” from the seam
allowance. Repeat for
the remaining three corners,
forming a mitered frame.
Stitch the ribbon to the
Cut two 13”x 17” fabric rectangles for the
pillow front and back.
Using a removable fabric-marking pen,
draw a line 3½” from each edge on
the pillow front, creating a frame (5).
Starting at the center of one frame long
edge, position the ribbon outer edge
along the marked line (6).
Mark the ribbon at the frame corner with
a small dot on the ribbon outside edge.
pillow fabric along the marked lines.
Carefully trim away the excess ribbon
fold under each mitered corner; lightly
press.When all four corners are mitered
and the excess ribbon trimmed, edgestitch
the ribbon along both lengthwise edges
to secure it to the pillow fabric.
length of each ribbon, and layer the
narrow ribbon on top of the wider one.
Fold the ribbons in half widthwise and
stitch the layers together 3”, 8” and 15”
from the fold.
Secure the bow to the ribbon frame
when attaching the button. Use a heavybond trim glue if the layers are too thick
to stitch through.
Right sides facing, stitch the pillow front
and back together, leaving an 8” to 10”
opening in the lower edge to insert the
pillow form.
Turn the pillow right side out, and carefully
Align the seams in the center to create
three loops on each side of the center.
Tack the layers together at the center seam.
push out the corners. Insert the pillow
form, and then hand stitch the
opening closed.
7
6
5
Cover the button according to the manufacturer’s directions.
To create the layered bow, cut a 24”
Fold the ribbon back on itself at the dot,
and then draw a 45° line from the dot
toward the pillow fabric center (7).
Stitch the ribbon to the pillow
Cut bow streamers of various lengths
from the remaining ribbon as desired.
Tack the streamers under the bow.
Center
Ribbon
fold
31⁄2”
31⁄2”
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Framed
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
Fabric
7 1 1⁄2 yards of 45”-wide fabric
7 1⁄2 yard of 45”-wide contrast fabric
Other
7 22”-square pillow form
7 2 1⁄2 yards of twist-lip cord
7 1 3⁄4 yards of tassel trim
7 Matching all-purpose thread
7 Quilter’s triangle
7 Fabric-marking pen
Cut one 25” square and four 5”x 25” frame
strips from the primary fabric. Cut a 15”
square from the contrast fabric.
Press open the frame seams.
Leave the excess fabric in
place for lightweight fabric,
or trim the excess for
heavyweight fabric.
Lay the 25” square right
side up on a flat surface.
Place the front wrong
side up on the back;
square the edges and
trim any excess so
both squares are the
same size. Remove the
front and place it right
side up on a flat surface.
8
Position the tassel trim along the front frame
Place the 15” square right side up on a
flat surface. Center the frame strips right
sides down over the square, aligning the
outside raw edges.The frame strips
should extend equally beyond each
edge of the square; pin.
Flip the fabric square and strips wrong side
up. Mark the seamline intersection in each
corner (8). Stitch each strip to the fabric
square, stitching up to the seam allowance
mark. Do not sew to the fabric edges, and
make sure the strip ends aren’t caught in
the stitching.
Wrong sides together, fold the primary
fabric on the diagonal and align the loose
frame edges; pin.
seamline. Glue-baste
the trim before machine stitching.
Sew the twisted cord trim to the pillow
front around the perimiter.Trim away the
tape 1½” on each end at the join.Where
the cord ends meet, carefully untwist each
end and flatten. Interlace the twist of each
side together to create a continuous join.
Stitch over the ends to secure.
Carefully align the pillow front and back
pieces right sides together; stitch, leaving a
6” opening along the center of the pillow
lower edge for turning. Stitch from the
back side and catch a small portion of the
cord in the stitching.
seam allowance marks
9
Diagonal fold
Turn the pillow right side out and insert the
Using a quilter’s triangle and fabric-marking
form. Hand stitch the opening closed. Z
pen, mark the miter seamline on the frame
fabric (9). Stitch along the mark; repeat for
each corner.
45° angle
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BY PAM ARCHER
PILLOW TALK
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Add a wrap to an old pillow for an
instant home makeover.
of glue at the opposite short end.
Finger-press the corresponding strip
of hook-and-loop tape into the glue
and let dry. If you prefer, stitch the
hook-and-loop tape instead of gluing.
Asian Wrap
MATERIALS:
7 1⁄ 3 yard of 45”-wide Asian-themed fabric
7 1 yard of fusible interfacing
7 31⁄ 2”-long beaded tassel
7 Two 21⁄ 2” lengths of 1⁄ 2”-wide fusible
adhesive strip
7 One 5⁄ 8”-diameter, self-adhesive hookand-loop tape dot
Cut one 51⁄ 2”x 36” rectangle from the
fusible interfacing.
Center and fuse the interfacing to the
wrap wrong side.
ping before the hook-and-loop tape
application.
Cut a 12”x 37 1⁄ 2” rectangle from the
Create end points by folding the
specified fabric. Fold under the short
ends ½”; press.
corners on each short end to the
back center seam (1).
With right sides together, fold the rectangle in half, aligning the long edges;
pin. Using a ½” seam allowance,
stitch along the pinned edge. Press the
seam open.
Place one fusible strip along the
Turn the wrap right side out, centering
the seam on the back. Press the wrap
flat; edgestitch.
bringing the points to the front.
Overlap the points 1”, and mark with
an air-soluble marking pen.
On the wrap front side, apply a bead of
glue along the edge of one short end.
Finger-press one portion of the
hook-and-loop tape into the glue.
Apply the hook-and-loop tape dots at
the overlap markings. Stitch the beaded tassel to the overlapping point.
ld.
Fo
Basic Construction
1 Fold corners to back center seam.
Back Center Seam
Construct the basic pillow wrap, stop-
Fo
ld.
MATERIALS:
7 18”-square pillow
7 1⁄ 3 to 3⁄ 4 yard of 45”-wide fashion fabric
(as listed per project)
7 51⁄4” of 5⁄ 8”-wide hook-and-loop tape
7 Fabric glue
7 Matching all-purpose thread
7 Fabric marking pencil or air-soluble
marker
Finished size is 51⁄ 2”x 361⁄ 2”. Read the full
instructions for each wrap prior to
construction.
Turn the wrap over, and apply a bead
point’s hemline (2). Fuse in place
following the manufacturer’s instructions. Repeat for the other end.
Place the wrap around the pillow
Fusible
Adhesive
Strip
ld.
Fo
tip: Avoid gluing hook-and-loop tape to fabric by purchasing self-adhesive or
2 Place fusible strip at hemline; fuse.
Fo
ldl
ine
PILLOWS ARE GREAT
ACCESSORIES.They readily tie
different colors and textures together
and add decorative dimension to a
room. But did you know that pillows
can have a wardrobe all their own?
Take a look at these quick-to-sew
pillow wraps that turn everyday
pillows into make-a-statement
accessories.
Hemline
sew-in hook-and-look tape and applying it per the manufacturer’s instructions.
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Plaid Tab Wrap
3 Edgestitch triangle.
MATERIALS:
7 1⁄ 3 yard of plaid fabric
7 Three 11⁄ 2” coverable buttons
7 One 6”x 16” faux-suede strip
Cut two faux-suede triangles measuring
5½” at the base and 4½” tall.
Cut three faux-suede circles, and use
them to cover the buttons following
the manufacturer’s instructions.
Modify the basic wrap by tapering in
4 Attach buttons.
1”
the seam at each end. Beginning 2½”
from each short end, gradually
increase the seam allowance to ¾”.
Apply the hook-and-loop tape after
the faux suede triangle is applied.
Turn the wrap wrong side up. Apply
1”
11⁄4”
a bead of fabric-basting glue along
the hem.
Place the base of one triangle right
side up on the glue, overlapping the
edges ¼”. Gently finger-press the
base in place and allow to dry.
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Turn the wrap over, and glue the
second triangle, aligning the raw
edges with the first triangle. Allow the
glue to dry before stitching.
Edgestitch the triangles together
through all layers (3). Trim any
uneven edges.
Stitch on the buttons, spacing them 1”
apart, and beginning 1¼” from the
triangle’s base (4).
With the right side facing up, apply
the hook strip of the hook-and-loop
tape to one short end. Apply the loop
portion to the wrap wrong side just
above the flap, abutting the edges.
Beaded Wrap
MATERIALS:
7 1⁄ 3 yard of 45”- or 54”-wide striped
chenille
7 66 assorted colored beads, size 8
7 Hand-sewing needle
5 Stagger each bead row.
1”
1⁄ 2”
1”
9 5⁄ 8”
6 Place loops along edges; stitch.
Align loop raw edges with seam.
21⁄2” 4”
4”
4”
4”
21⁄2”
7 Stitch band to wrap.
Make the basic wrap as directed.To
determine the wrap’s beading area,
place a pin 9⅝” from each short end.
Cut a 9 1⁄4”x 213⁄ 4” rectangle from the
fabric. Also cut a 2”x 28” bias fabric
strip to make the loops.
With a double-threaded needle, begin
To make the looped band, serge or
beading at the pin. Stitch the beads
with a running stitch, taking a stitch
through the upper fabric layer,
through the bead and directly back
through the top fabric layer, in 1”
intervals.
zigzag the edges of the 9¼”x 21¾”
rectangle. Fold under the long edges
¾”, and topstitch ½” from the fold.
Turn under each short end ½” and
topstitch in place. Set the band aside.
Stagger the beads for the second row
in half lengthwise with right sides
together; pin. Stitch with a ½” seam
allowance.Trim the seam to ¼” and
turn the tube right side out; press.
by placing the first bead ½” in from
the pin. Stitch using the same 1”
intervals between each bead.
Continue a staggered pattern for the
third and fourth rows (5).
Woven
Ribbon Wrap
MATERIALS:
7 3⁄ 4 yard of 45”-wide mini-check fabric
7 21⁄ 4 yards of 3⁄ 8”-wide coordinating
ribbon
Construct the basic pillow wrap.
To make the loops, fold the bias strip
Cut the tube into ten 2½”-long strips.
Place the hemmed rectangle wrong
side up. Along each long edge, mark
a dot 2½” from one short end, a
second dot 4” from the first, and
three more dots each 4” apart.
Fold each bias strip in half to form a
loop, and place a loop at each mark,
matching the raw edges (6). Secure
the loops by stitching across the ends,
following the previous stitching lines.
Wrong sides together, center the
pillow wrap over the band. Fold each
looped band edge 1⅛” to the wrap
right side.
Sew along the previous stitching lines
through all layers (7). Repeat on the
remaining side.
Thread the ribbon through the loops
like a shoelace, crisscrossing the
ribbon between the loops.Tie the
remaining length into a bow.
Encircle the pillow with the completed
wrap, securing at the back with the
hook-and-loop tape.
sources
Crafters Pick “The Ultimate” Adhesive
Products, Inc., www.crafterspick.com,
provided the fabric glue.
Husqvarna Viking,
www.husqvarnaviking.com, provided
the sewing machine used to construct
the pillow wraps.
The Warm Company,
www.warmcompany.com, provided the
Steam-A-Seam 2 Iron-on Adhesive. Z
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quick & easy project
repurposed
runner
BY REBECCA KEMP BRENT
Have the urge to
decorate? Spruce
up your décor by
transforming a
table runner into a
pair of pillows.
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MATERIALS
7 Table runner with tasseled, tapered ends, about 14”x 70”
7 Matching all-purpose thread
7 Two 14”-square pillow forms
7 Water- or air-soluble marking pen
Construction
1. Cut the runner in half widthwise and serge or overcast the cut edges.
Each half will make one pillow.
2. With wrong sides together fold in the finished edge approximately 14”,
aligning it with the base of the runner’s tapered end (A). The exact
measurement will vary.
3. Stitch the sides together using a
zigzag stitch (3.5 mm wide, 1.4 mm
long), overcast the edges, or straight
stitch along the runner edges (B).
Backstitch at the opening for
reinforcement.
tip: If a table runner has corded
edges, join the layers by stitching
in the ditch along the cording.
A Fold in finished cut edge 14”.
4. With a fabric-marking pen, draw a
5. Insert a pillow form and compress it
away from the opening. Pin the
finished cut end to the runner along
the marked line; stitch by hand or
machine to secure.
6. Fluff the pillow form to fill the
Finished
Cut Edge
Fold.
Look for holiday
and seasonal table
runners on clearance
after the retail
season.Tuck them
away for next year’s
decorations and gifts.
line on the runner wrong side along
the finished cut end (C). This will act
as a placement guide when stitching
the pillow closed.
Approx. 14”
B Stitch sides.
cushion.
7. Fold the tasseled end to the pillow
front to create an envelope design.
8. Repeat to make a matching pillow
from the remaining table runner half.
Other Ideas
• Embellish a plain table runner with machine embroidery or
appliqué designs. Since many runners with tapered ends have a
seam at the point center, choose a pair of motifs to place on either
side and avoid stitching through the bulky seam allowances.
• If your runner lacks a tassel, make one from yarn, bullion fringe
or beads.
• Add handles and omit the pillow form to create a tote from the
table runner. Add body by backing the runner with stiff fusible
interfacing before stitching.
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C Mark placement line.
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rethinking
WOOL
BY LINDA LEE
Not just for coats and blankets, wool is the
perfect fabric for easy-to-sew pillow construction.
WHEN LOOKING FOR PILLOW
FABRIC, most people head to the
decorator department of the fabric
store, but scouring your stash of
garment fabrics instead can be just
the ticket. Remnants from coats,
sweaters, blazers and other winterwear offer up all kinds of new
possibilities for pillow making.
Simple details, minimal embellishments, and best of all, the ability to
use raw edges, highlight the natural
beauty of wool and make it a
genuine candidate for any season.
Fabrics
Look for wool fabric that doesn’t
ravel much, such as double-faced
wool, which usually has a different
color on each side. Another good
choice is a heavyweight coating, such
as melton or soft cashmere blends.
Or look for fabric that shrinks and no
longer ravels when repeatedly washed
and dried.This includes single-knit
wool jerseys and sweater knits
(including old sweaters that no longer
fit or are out of style).
To felt wool fabrics, wash them in the
hottest water without detergent, and
agitate on the longest cycle. After the
first laundering, dry in a hot dryer.
Check the amount of felting and
shrinking. If you want a denser look
or more texture, continue washing
and agitating until the fabric is felted
how you want it.This can take as
many as five or six washings.
WARM & WOOLY
Pillows
MATERIALS
(Makes one pillow)
7 2⁄3 yard each of two colors of fabric
(after felting)
7 1⁄8 yard of felted wool jersey or 2 yards
of 11⁄2”-wide ribbon
7 Rotary cutter with pinking blade or
pinking shears
7 1⁄8”-wide double-sided tape or narrow
strips of fusible web
7 16”-square pillow form
7 Matching thread
7 Chalk marker
Wool Jersey Trim
Variation
Cut one 23” square from each color
fabric. Using the rotary blade or
pinking shears, cut enough ⅜”-wide
strips of felted wool jersey to equal
two yards.
Chalk-mark a 16” square in the center
of one fabric square right side. Adhere
strips of double-sided tape on the
chalk marks. Center the wool
jersey strips on the tape, overlapping the ends and turning
the trim at right angles at
each corner.
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5 DECEMBER 2006
67
A Stitch ribbon inner edge
B Fold back ribbon; draw diagonal line
Wrong sides together, place the pillow
squares together; pin three sides along
the trim. Stitch down the center of
the trim through all layers, leaving
one side free to insert the pillow
form (1).
11⁄2”
1 Stitch down trim center
THE
Miter
TOUCH
Insert the pillow form. Pin and sew
the remaining side closed.
Using the rotary blade or pinking
shears, cut the edges of both pillow
layers the desired flange width.
Ribbon Trim Variation
Cut one 23” square from each color
fabric.
Chalk-mark a 16” square in the center
of one fabric square. Position fusible
web strips outside the chalk lines.
Starting in one corner and extending
about 3” of ribbon beyond the corner, place the ribbon on the fusible
web along one edge; fuse in place.
Miter the corner and continue fusing
the ribbon to each side. Miter the
final corner as detailed in “The Miter
Touch” at right.
Edgestitch along the ribbon outer edge.
Wrong sides together, pin the two
fabric squares together. Stitch along
the ribbon inside edge on three sides.
p Beginning a few inches from one
corner, stitch along the ribbon inner
edge through the ribbon and the fabric
square, stopping at the point where
the ribbon will turn a right angle (A).
p Fold the trim back on itself, aligning
the fold 11⁄2” from the last stitch. Draw
a diagonal line from the last stitch on
the inner edge to the corner point of
the ribbon (B).
F
Reverse strips; draw diagonal line
p Using the drawn line as a guide,
stitch a line with about a 1⁄16” bow
to it through all layers (C). Trim the
folded ribbon to 1⁄4”.
p Continue sewing the ribbon inner
edge to the next corner (D). Repeat
the previous steps to miter the corner.
Stop stitching a few inches before the
final corner.
p To complete the final corner, place
one piece of ribbon over the other at
a right angle. Draw a line on the ribbon
from the intersection of the inner corner
to the outer corner (E).
tip: Using down and
feather pillow forms
p Reverse the ribbon strips and mark a line
from the inner corner to the outer corner (F).
increases the luxury look
and sew along the ribbon inside edge
to close.
p With right sides together, match the drawn
lines and stitch through the ribbon only (G).
pillow fabrics the same
Stitch along the ribbon outer edges,
p Trim the excess ribbon and press to one
side. Complete the stitching along the
ribbon inner edge (H).
Insert the pillow form. Pin the last side
stitching only through the upper
fabric layer.
14
D Stitch to next corner
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of wool pillows. Cut the
size or slightly smaller
than the form without
adding seam allowances.
C Stitch bowed line
WESTERN GIRL
Pillows
E Layer trims; draw diagonal line at
intersection
MATERIALS
(Makes one pillow)
7 1 yard of double-faced wool
7 3 yards of white polyester cable cord
7 Size 16 tapestry needle
7 Chalk marker
7 Clear ruler
7 Rotary cutter
7 Matching thread
7 18”-square down pillow form
Use ½” seam allowances unless
otherwise indicated.
G Stitch only through ribbon
From the double-faced wool, cut two
18” squares. Chalk-mark a line 1”
from and parallel to each edge of one
fabric square.Thread the tapestry
needle with a length of cable cord.
Knot one end, and sew long running
stitches along the chalk marks (2).
2 Sew running stitches along chalk line
Chalk line
Cut four 33⁄4”x 17” wool strips. Stay-
stitch ½” from one long edge of
each strip. Using a rotary cutter, cut
½”-wide fringe along each strip,
starting at the raw edge and cutting
to the staystitching line.
H Complete stitching
Right sides together, pin one fringe
strip to one fabric square edge,
centering the fringe and aligning the
uncut edge with the square raw edge.
Repeat, pinning the remaining fringe
strips to the square edges (3).
Running stitches
3 Pin fringe strips to pillow square
Pin the fringe ends out of the way at
each corner.With right sides together,
sew the two pillow squares together
along three edges, sandwiching the
fringe between the two layers.
Insert the pillow form. Turn the raw
edges of the opening to the inside
and slipstitch the opening closed. Z
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