ESC_Northern Virginia_Red Meat_January 2011

EVENING STAR CAFE PRESS
RED MEAT: WILL ARTLEY
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Chef Will Artley has been around food for a LONG time.
He cut his teeth on several local properties–the since-shuttered Colvin Run
Tavern, Butterfield 9 and IndeBleu, as well as Kinkead’s–before taking up the
Neighborhood Restaurant Group‘s cause in Del Ray, where he continues to
steer Evening Star‘s culinary ship (including the subordinate Majestic and No.
9 lounges) as well as running Planet Wine’s by-reservation-only Farm Table.
But rather than clear things off his plate, this apparent workaholic plans to
add another title to his curriculum vitae this year: gardener.
WR: Salt. Pepper. What other spices/herbs could you not live without?
WA: I’d give up pepper for fresh thyme. Fennel seed I use quite a bit, too.
WR: What’s the very first dish you ever mastered?
WA: Eggs. all styles.
WR: How long did it take?
WA: About 40 dozen. lol.
WR: Do you still make it today?
WA: Yes. I actually give cooks/sous chef applicants two eggs when they
apply. I tell them to cook them one sunny side and one over hard. You’d be
amazed at how many people fail that test.
WR: What seasonal ingredient(s) get your creative juices flowing?
WA: Ramps. Every year I spend time trying to figure out how I can prolong
their shelf-life.
WR: My latest cookbook obsession is …
WA: A toss up between bread books and Sarma Melngailis’ “Living Raw Food”
UNcookbook
WR: What’s the most challenging dish you’ve ever attempted? Would you
make it again?
WA: Isomalt teardrops–Never. Not my style.
WR: If I could the spend the day working alongside any local chef, I’d love to
collaborate with …
WA: Frank Ruta. He’s a stud.
WR: What’s the easiest/quickest–but still wholly satisfying–meal you make for
yourself?
WA: Seems boring, but to be honest with you, anything I can throw in a wrap.
Quick, easy, satisfying.
WR: In the next six months you won’t want to miss my …
WA: 2,000 square foot garden (located about 3/4 of a mile from the restaurant). We plan to harvest: green beans, cukes, squash, all herbs, 130-150
heirloom tomato plants (hope to harvest 500 pounds), carrots, beets, greens
and onions. I’m sitting down with my buddy Travis Hester this month to
finalize our planting. Come on, springtime!
WR: It’s quitting time. I’m pouring myself …
NORTHERN VIRGINIA MAGAZINE
WARREN ROJAS
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WA: A Maker’s.
JANUARY 2011