2013-09-September-Newsletter - Sonoma County Orchid Society

SONOMA COUNTY ORCHID SOCIETY
September 2013
A California Non-Profit 501 (c) (3) Corporation
IN THIS ISSUE
1
Bar-B-Q & Auction Poster
2
President's Corner, BarB-Q & Auction Info,
Thank You
3
Membership Column,
Board & Committee Chairs
4
Board Highlights,
Refreshments & Classifieds
5-6
September Checklist
6-9
Dendrobium "Types" and
Associated Culture
10
Events Page
12-13
Upcoming Event Posters
14
Membership Application
Page 1
SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
President’s Corner
Hi all!
Summer is drawing to a close. Days are getting shorter. Outdoor gardens start to slow their growth. Thank goodness
we have orchids, which continue to spike and bloom!
On September 21st we are having our BIG FALL EVENT: The SCOS ANNUAL BBQ and AUCTION! Our Guest
Auctioneer is Alan Koch of Gold Country Orchids. He is driving all the way from Lincoln to bring us a lot of his
gorgeous prize winning orchids to bid on! There is always good food, lots of fun, and of course beautiful blooming
ORCHIDS! There will be orchids for both the beginner and expert growers. Alan makes our auctions fun and
entertaining! Save up your money and get ready to bid high and bid often! It’s time to get ready for this big day!
Please attend and bring your family and friends. It’s a great opportunity to socialize with other members, have a
yummy meal and get some plants to add to your collection. If you haven’t already done so, call or email a board
member and sign up. Remember the BBQ and Auction IS our September meeting. There will be NO regular
meeting.
SCOS welcomes any donations. Succulents, begonias, and other non-orchid items will be up for bids at our auction.
Wine donations are welcome, too! We are a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization so any donations are tax deductible.
See you September 21st at the BBQ and Auction!
Susan Anderson
Our Society’s Bar-B-Q and Auction is this
month – What you need to know
 $6 per person for all you can eat beef, chicken,
sides & desserts. The society provides water and
soft drinks. Feel free to bring wine or beer to
share
 Bring friends and family – everyone welcome
 You may bring orchids and other plants for the
silent auction. Please check your plants carefully
for pests. Insect infested plants will be removed
 The Society keeps 25% of silent auction sales as
a commission
 We request that members donate one plant for
every 4 put in for sale. We ask that members
limit their consignment plants to no more than 12
 Donated non-plant items may also be placed in
the silent auction, i.e. wine, winery tours, gift
certificates, orchid art, etc.
 If you are bringing silent auction plants, please
arrive by 10:00 a.m. or earlier in order to
complete the necessary paperwork. Silent auction
begins at 11:00 a.m.
Page 2
Thank you
to Judy Carney
for hosting a skill session before
the last meeting on “Know your
Orchid”. She did a wonderful job
and people learned a lot from
Judy’s expert advice.
Thank you to Debra Atwood
for hosting our August open
greenhouse. I hope that a lot of you were able to go and
see her beautiful greenhouse.
SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
MEMBERSHIP COLUMN
WE WELCOME THE FOLLOWING NEW MEMBERS:
BILL & SHIRLEY TATHAM
CLEMENTINE LEE
MARILYN MITCHELL
The Board wants new members to know that we are all here to help. Don't hesitate to ask a question of any society
member. We have many expert growers! Or you can call or email board members. To email, go to our Society
webpage www.sonomaorchids.com, click on the "contacts" link and email any director or committee chair. Through
the website, you can also read back issues of our newsletter.
Wear Your Name Badge
Wear your name badge and sign the list at the Membership Table. At each meeting, one name will be drawn and that
person will receive a free raffle ticket. Those who would like to order a name badge should do so as soon as
possible. Email Jeanne at [email protected].
REMINDER: MEMBERSHIP DUES ARE PAST DUE for the July 1 through June 30, 2014 year. Find a
membership form on page 14.
Change of address?
To send an address or email change, go to our Society website at www.sonomaorchids.com and use the
"contacts" link to send an email to the membership chair.
2013/2014 Board of Directors and Committee Chairs
Board Positions
President
Vice President
Secretary
Treasurer
Membership
Newsletter
Ways & Means
Meetings
Past President
Committee Chairs
Meeting Setup
Librarian
Opportunity Table
Plant Sales
Greeter
AOS/Orchid Digest
Webmaster
Page 3
Susan Anderson
Gerry Smith
Becky Jackson
Ann Possinger
Jeanne Van Blarcom
Kathie Hile
Ann Conger
Billie MacCarthy
Susan Anderson
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
Bob Breckwoldt
Patty Connick
Ann Conger
Kathy Thompson
Marilyn Barquero
Mariann Hopkins
Vacant
Patty Connick
Richard Lindberg
Phone 415-479-2329
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
SCOS Board Highlights
August 20, 2013
Refreshments
We are asking members to bring snacks to the monthly meetings.
Please check the following list to find out what month you are
asked to participate.
Susan Anderson graciously provided a fantastic taco/
burrito-bar dinner at her lovely home. 7 Board members
were present.
Members with last names beginning with the letters:
Open Greenhouse in August is at Napa Valley Orchids
on 8/24
Judy Carney will host an Open Greenhouse in October
and Kris & Jim Foster will open in November.Watch
for the dates, you won’t want to miss them.
Oct. speaker will be Tanya Lam. Possible Nov. speaker
is Mary Gerritson.
T–Z
January, 2013
A–B
February
C – De
March
Di – Fo
April
Fr – H
May
J – Le
June
Ice Cream Social
July
Li – M
August
Bar-B-Q & Auction
September
No Meeting in September
N-R
October
S
November
Holiday Dinner
December
No Meeting in December
Jeanne Van Blarcom reports there are 4 new members,
with a total of 111 now. Renewals are past-due, so
please renew NOW if you haven’t already. Permanent
name badges will be ordered soon, get your name and Thank you
money to Jeanne if you want to order one.
Newsletter deadline for submissions is the 20th of the
month. Kathie Hile is always looking for interesting
stories, pictures and submissions from ANYONE.
CLASSIFIEDS
It's still a good time to Repot!
Refreshments at meetings have been tapering off lately. Don't forget you can get orchid supplies from
Please be sure and look in the Newsletter each month to Kris and Jim Foster [email protected] or 707see if it’s your turn to bring something (listed 762-7124
alphabetically by last name). Thanks to those who bring
all those fantastic and much-appreciated goodies!
BBQ and Auction will replace the regular September
meeting. THERE IS NO 2ND TUESDAY MEETING
AT THE VET’S BUILDING for September. Refer to
the flyer for details. The Board will meet Friday 9/20 to
set up at the Jackson’s, then again at 9:00 am on 9/21.
Small and medium Rexius bark
Perlite
Sphagnum
Orchid labels
Stakes
Charcoal
Bus Trip next Spring will be organized by Lynne
Anyone have an item for sale? You may post
Murrell and Ann Conger—many thanks to them!
it here. Email [email protected]
th
Holiday Party will be Dec 10 at Legends at the Bennett
Valley Golf Course. Billie will organize it. More info
will be forthcoming.
Next Board meeting Sept 17 at Gerry Smith’s at 6:30
pm. Billie MacCarthy will host in October.
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
SEPTEMBER CHECKLIST
(From Orchids with permission of AOS---by Ned Nash and James Rose)
Cattleya. Despite the shortening days and lowering angle of the sun, September can still be one of the hottest
months. Water and fertilizer need to be in balance with heat and light. The alert grower will notice, however, that
his or her plants are beginning to slow down a bit. Growths are maturing, and the sheaths are giving the promise
of the next six months bloom.
Check plants for potting needs for the last time this season. Any in dire need should be potted, even some that
may be on the cusp, as there is just enough of the growing season left to allow the plants to establish before the
days start to get really short and cold.
This is the month for purples derived from Cattleya labiata breeding to flower. If you are short on flowers,
look into this group. There is nothing that can quite match this type for beauty and fragrance. They are easy to
grow, too.
Plants summered outdoors should begin to be prepared to be brought back into the winter growing area. Clean
the plants up and be on the lookout for any pests they may have picked up during the summer. Treat as
necessary.
Cymbidium. Through diligent modern breeding programs, the cymbidium season gets stretched longer and
longer. Now we can expect to have flowers bloom as early as September and October. Stake inflorescences and
move the plants to a shadier location to help the flowers develop successfully. Because the plants will have
warmth tolerance "built in" genetically, keeping the plants as cool as possible will help prevent bud curl. For the
midseason varieties, inflorescences should be initiated by now. Feed plants on a regular schedule with a
balanced fertilizer (20-20-20) and shade the plants lightly.
Check your plants for pests because once they are in flower it is more difficult to spray. If your plants are
outside, be wary of the year's first freeze or frost. Temperatures below 28°F will damage the flower spikes.
Catasetum and Cycnoches. For both genera, autumn is typically the end of their growing season. Plants may
produce flowers from pseudobulbs with leaves, or in some instances, from bulbs that have already lost their leaves.
Watch the undersides of the leaves to control spider mites, which seem to find these delicacies just as the foliage
reaches its prime or plants are about to bloom. Support the basal racemes of catasetums as they emerge and
consider putting the plants on inverted pots to provide room for them to hang freely. These genus are seasonal,
requiring heavy watering in the growing season and then a drier dormant winter season.
Dendrobium This is a good season for hybrids of the Dendrobium phalaenopsis and Dendrobium canaliculatum
types. Both are capable of putting on tremendous shows of long-lasting flowers. Fertilize with a low-nitrogen
formula to promote the best flowers. Dendrobium phalaenopsis can get tall and top heavy, suggesting an attractive
and heavy container would be, although proportionately small, appropriate for this type.
[Editor's Note: Thinking about our new members, it is difficult to provide "Dendrobium culture" since the genus
Dendrobium is so diverse. This prompted me to try to find a list of dendrobium "types" and their cultural needs.
Following this cultural column is an article by Gordon Heaps, which, I believe, does a pretty good job of
presenting the types of dendrobiums and their cultural requirements.]
Miltonia. Of the three popular "Pansy orchids", Miltonia xbluntii, Miltonia rozelii and Miltonia spectabilis, the
latter is probably the most showy. The reddish-purple flowers of Milt. spectabilis var. moreliana usually appear
singly and last for weeks. The racemes can be very heavy, even when carrying only a single bloom, so do provide
support.
Oncidium Sections Crispa and Synsepala. This season will produce the majority of flowers in these groups,
including Onc. enderianum, Onc. varicosum and most hybrids between and within these sections. These plants
produce active growth throughout spring and summer. Now the pseudobulbs are formed and spikes will begin to
appear, bearing clouds of flowers on their branches. Most of the plants in this group are native to mid-elevations in
Brazil and so withstand somewhat lower temperatures (down to 40°F.)
Paphiopedilum Standard, green-leaved paphiopedilums begin to show their bloom sheaths this month. Lateseason heat waves can blast these early sheaths, so be observant about proper cooling and air circulation. As
with the rest of your plants that may have been summered outdoors, it is time to prepare for their move inside.
Clean each plant and implement pest-control practices. Repotting, if necessary, is appropriate.
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
Phalaenopsis The bulk of this season's growth is being ripened this month, with growers in cooler climates
seeing the first emerging inflorescences. Some night heating may be necessary in the cooler areas. Begin to watch
watering more carefully, and reduce feeding proportionately with reduced watering needs. An extra dose of
phosphorus and potassium, such as a bloom-booster or high-acid-type fertilizer, is beneficial.
Rossioglossum grande Once known as Odontoglossum grande, this is a spectacular orchid with six to eight
flowers up to 8 inches across. Often known as the tiger orchid, it has bright golden yellow flowers heavily marked
with chestnut brown barring. The plants are beautiful with a grey-green cast to the foliage, which is borne on
succulent pseudobulbs. It prefers hot and wet summers with cooler, even down to 40 F, dry winters. Grow under
filtered light. Watch for snails and slugs that eat the flowers, pseudobulbs and leaves.
Vanda and Ascocenda. This is the principal blooming season for Vanda sanderiana and the foundation for largeflowered modern vandaceous hybrids. Position plants so that the inflorescences will grow out of the leaves toward
the light; help uncooperative types by placing a thin bamboo stick between the emerging inflorescence and the
flattened form of the leaves, thereby forcing the receme outward.
DENDROBIUMS
(Article prepared by Gordon Heaps)
This large and diverse genus of orchids gives the orchid grower many options for growing. Flower forms, colors
and sizes, from miniature to giant, easy to grow or difficult, dendrobiums have it all. Dendrobiums may be found
growing on the snow covered mountains of Japan or down to sea level in tropical climates. All dendrobiums are
found in SE Asia, Japan and down to NE Australia.
The more than 1500 dendrobium species are divided into several distinct groups according to their culture or
flower form. They are sympodial orchids, mainly epiphytic in nature. Pseudobulbs range from small roundish and
2 inches tall to cane-like and 5 feet in height. They may be deciduous or evergreen, with some species requiring
several months of dormancy.
The flowers are also quite variable in size and lasting time. Some species may be open for a single day, while other
species may last several weeks. Flower colors, shapes and sizes are diverse as well. Tiny flowers of 1.4 inches or
very large flowers up to 6 inches in diameter. Petals may be twisted like corkscrews, undulated or flat.
There are fourteen distinct sections within the Dendrobium genus with some being very easy to grow, while others
need very diverse and difficult conditions to grow or flower.
The general culture of this large group of orchids is as varied as the areas in which they are found. They are
orchids and therefore they require the standard conditions of all other orchids: AIR, LIGHT, WATER,
NUTRITION, TEMPERATURE and HUMIDITY. Each condition varies with each species. It must be noted that
the climate or indigenous growing conditions must be met to have success with this genus.
Dendrobium phalaenopsis and its many hybrids: (Cooktown Orchid)
This group (section) of dendrobium is the easiest group to grow and the most common because of the many
beautiful hybrids. D. phalaenopsis has an arching inflorescence with many brightly colored flowers. They are
evergreen orchids with cylindrical canes (pseudobulbs) of 2 feet to 4 feet. The number of inflorescences and the
number of flowers on each inflorescence increase with the age of the plant. (Phalaenopsis means moth-like).
Potting: Best left undisturbed in smaller pots. Standard mix of bark, perlite, charcoal. Extra drainage holes in the
pot is desirable
Light: Direct filtered light. Some summer shade may be necessary.
Temperature: Approximately 64°F - 68°F are acceptable. These temperatures can be adjusted down slightly in the
winter.
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
Watering: Thoroughly soak at each watering. Dry before the next watering. Avoid water on the foliage.
Fertilizing: A balanced fertilizer program of 20-20-20 is advised. Avoid the use of high nitrogen fertilizers. Feed
at every watering. Leach pot every 5th watering.
Humidity: 50% is fine. Lots of air movement.
Problems: Fungal spots; spider mites; development of Keikis.
Dendrobium kingianum:
There are two species in this group, D kingianum and D. delicatum. These species have many color forms, shapes
and sizes and are easy to grow, with the plant size increasing rapidly. Found in Australia, growing lithophytically
in large clumps of tangled canes frequently on rocks overhanging creeks or streams.
Potting: This lithophytic orchid does not like being mounted. Fine mixture, same ingredients as phalaenopsis type
dendrobiums.
Light: Bright light to full sun.
Temperature: Ranges from 77°F summer to 41°F in the winter. D. kingianum must have a dormant period of at
least 100 days.
Watering: Likes lots of water during the growing period. Water only 1/3 as frequently during dormancy.
Fertilizer: A heavy feeder during new growth (after flowering). 20-20-20 is okay. 10-50-10 before dormancy.
Humidity: 50% - 80% are acceptable levels. Winter dormancy periods need high humidity levels.
Problems: A good one, keeping the plant at a reasonable size and shape. Scale and mealy bugs.
Dendrobium bigibbum:
This is a large group of dendrobium, with many hybrids that are easily grown in the home environment. Some of
the hybrids can obtain approximately 3 feet to 6 feet in height, but there are many windowsill sized plants as well.
D. bigibbum, D. compactum and D. phalaenopsis are hybridized into many of our most popular and easiest
dendrobiums to grow.
Culture: same as D. phalaenopsis.
Dendrobium thyrsiflorum, farmeri, guibertii, densiflorum, griffithanum:
This group of dendrobiums is probably the showiest of all orchids when they are in flower. Unfortunately, the
flowers do not last very long. Large, cascading inflorescence with brilliant orange or yellow flowers. India, Nepal
and the Himalayan Mountains are home to this exotic group.
Potting: Plant in clay pots with extra drainage. Use a mixture of bark, perlite and charcoal. Use the smallest pot
possible to contain the plant.
Light: High light requirements are necessary. Do not shade at any time during the year.
Temperature: Very accepting of warm or cool conditions. During the flowering and growing period, 64°F - 77°F.
Dormant periods, September to December, 57°F - 61°F.
Water: Evenly moist during growing periods and less during dormancy.
Fertilizing: Heavy to medium rates of 10-50-10 after flowering; 20-20-20 during dormancy (September to
December); 7-11-27 to break dormancy (December and January).
Humidity: 50% - 70% year-round
Problems: Leaf spots are common during dormancy if foliage is wet. Mealy bugs love the terminal growth.
Dendrobium aggregatum, lindleyi, capillipes:
Very unique and beautiful dendrobiums found in south China and Burma. More difficult to grow than other
dendrobiums because of specific dormancy periods. These dendrobiums have short pseudobulbs and cascading
inflorescens of yellow or orange flowers in the spring. They are deciduous orchids so the leaves will shrivel as
water is reduced.
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
Potting: mounting on cork is best. Very well-draining mixture if potting.
Light: High light year-round.
Temperature: Intermediate to cool temperatures required. 50°F - 60°F during the winter months; 61°F - 72°F
summertime.
Water: Lots of water during growing periods, especially if mounted. Dry during the winter. Do not let the
pseudobulbs shrivel.
Fertilizing: 20-20-20 during summer growth.
Humidity: Maintain at least 60% during dormancy.
Dendrobium chrysotoxum, moshatum, pulchellum, chryseum and fimbriatum:
Interesting "eye" dendrobiums from South China and the Himalayas to Burma, Thailand and Laos. They are
usually tall canes with deciduous foliage and two eyes on the lip, giving the impression that they are peeking out
from the petals. The plants themselves are quite unattractive as they are devoid of leaves except on the new growth
but when in flower the inflorescences come from the tips of the "dead" canes.
Potting: Well-drained mix with extra drainage hole in the pot. Some form of support will be necessary.
Light: High light year-round is necessary for success.
Temperature: Warm growers, 64°F - 77°F year-round.
Water: Dry thoroughly between waterings. Add lots of water when the new canes are forming. Dry slightly in the
fall and winter periods.
Fertilizing: 20-20-20 is satisfactory.
Humidity: Maintain approximately 50%
Problems: Keeping the plants upright because of their height. Tomato cages work for support. Mealy bugs and
scale.
Dendrobium canaliculatum, gouldii, stratiodes, antennatum and lineale. (Antelope Dendrobiums):
These New Guinea dendrobiums are grouped together with the name "Antelope" because of the prominent upward
growing petals that resemble Antelope antlers. Frequently these plants can reach heights of 6 feet or more, but
there are some species within the group that are miniature or smaller (D. canaliculatum, D. antennatum). They will
generally grow well in the house at normal temperatures but be careful to obtain the smaller species or hybrids.
Potting: Mix must not be allowed to become stagnant. Sphagnum and perlite, mixed in even proportions.
Keep them pot bound for best results.
Light: Filtered to bright light year-round
Temperature: Winter temperatures of 64°F to 77°F. No dormant period is needed.
Water: Copious amounts of water are needed. Do not dry between watering, but make sure the mix is draining.
Fertilizing: 20-20-20 is okay year round at one-half strength. Leach pots every fifth watering.
Humidity: 70% or higher is preferred by this group.
Problems: Soggy stale mix will cause root loss.
Dendrobium lawesii, atroviolaceum, bullenianum, bractiosum, apertum, wentianum:
A unique group of mainly deciduous dendrobiums found on the Fiji Islands and New Guinea that have canes
descending from the crown of the plant. These orchids have nectaries that are basically sealed from insects with a
springy lip that closes over the pollinia and nectar reserves. Birds are the sole pollinators of this group of
dendrobiums. All the orchids in this group produce clusters of flowers from the dormant canes that may last for
months. They are easy to grow if you can handle a mounted plant and provide the cool conditions necessary.
Potting: Mount on slabs only.
Light: Low to medium light levels.
Temperature: Cool growing year round; 50°F - 60°F.
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
Water: Provide plenty of moisture during the growing of the new canes. Dry thoroughly for two to three months
prior to flower buds forming.
Fertilizing: Light feeding during cane growth, do not feed during the dry-rest period.
Humidity: Higher levels during the winter, as this is the only moisture they will get.
Dendrobium nobile:
This lone species has hundreds of color forms and hybrids that make up this group of orchids. Brilliant longlasting flowers are formed on the mature canes in groups of two or three after the dormant period, usually in
January. A difficult orchid to grow because of its demanding cultural requirements, but well worth the effort if you
can match the conditions. These orchids are found at elevations of almost 5,000 feet in India, China, and Thailand.
D. nobile is probably the most cultivated of all Dendrobiums because of its huge diversity of colored forms.
Potting: Well-drained mix of bark, perlite and charcoal, or try a sphagnum and perlite mix. Clay pots would be
desirable as they are more stable than plastic.
Light: High light is necessary year round.
Temperature: Intermediate to cool from March to August; cool temperatures August till March.
Water: Evenly moist during flowering and new growth. DO NOT water during dormancy. NOT AT ALL till the
buds are visible. Leaves will turn yellow and drop off the plant. At this point the plant will start bud growth.
Keikis will grow instead of flowers if too much water is added.
Fertilizing: 20-20-20 during the growth period. 7-11-27 as soon as the flower buds appear until the new canes
start.
Humidity: Not critical on these orchids.
Problems: Getting them to flower. High light is critical. Cold and dry during dormancy.
Dendrobium loddigesii, pierardii, primulinum:
This delicate group of pendulous orchids is native to Laos and south China. They are deciduous with narrow
pseudobulbs and delicate pink flowers with fimbriated lips. Flowering occurs in the spring after a dormant dry
period. Because of this dormant period the plants look almost dead just prior to the bud formation. Careless
watering during dormancy will in fact cause serious root problems or extensive keiki growth instead of flowers.
Potting: This group of orchids prefers to be mounted.
Light: High light is required during the pseudobulb growth. Filtered light during flowering and dormancy.
Temperature: New growth period can be 59°F - 65°F; Dormancy should be only 50°F - 59°F.
Water: As with other dormant requiring dendrobiums, reduction of watering is necessary. Water only enough to
keep the pseudobulbs from withering. Growing period requires water daily if mounted.
Fertilizing: Fertilize with 20-20-20 during pseudobulb growth. As soon as the buds are visible use 7-11-27.
Humidity: High humidity during dormancy as this is the only water they will receive.
Problems: Excessive Keiki growth resulting from over watering during the winter. Root rot from not enough
drainage.
Dendrobiums as you can see are a very diverse genus with untold combinations of watering needs, dormancy
requirements and flower inflorescence initiation. The best advice to successfully grow these orchids is to become
familiar with their indigenous habitat.
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
UPCOMING EVENTS
September 2013
September
9/21 SCOS Bar-B-Q and Auction. Please mark your calendar. Email
[email protected] to make your reservation!
9/28 – 9/29 Orchids in the Park, 10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m., County Fair Building,
9th Avenue and Lincoln Avenue, San Francisco. THIS IS A GREAT EVENT
and I understand it is Tom Perlite's (Golden Gate Orchids) last event as a
vendor.
THERE IS NO MEETING IN SEPTEMBER
COME TO THE Bar-B-Q & AUCTION
October
10/8 SCOS MEETING, Tanya Lam will talk to us about "The Long Lasting and Frequent Blooming Orchids."
10/13 Open Greenhouse by Judy Carney, 11:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. Judy will have some plants for sale.
1292 San Jose Way, Petaluma.
November
11/12 SCOS MEETING, Speaker to be announced
The Fosters will open their Greenhouses in November. Details will follow in future Newsletter issues.
December
12/10 SCOS HOLIDAY DINNER to be held at Legends Restaurant at the Bennett Valley Golf Course. Details to
follow.
Gordon & Susan at Gordon's Open Greenhouse
SEE OTHER PICTURES FROM GORDON'S
OPEN HOUSE ON PAGE 13
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
Daryl & Linda Eggleston, Smitty Smity, Susan
Anderson and Gerry Smith
Vanda Robert's Delight
Nepanthes spectabilis
Phrag. Sargent Eric
C. Summer Spot 'Carmela'
Ascda. Yanisa Gold
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter
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SCOS September 2013 Newsletter