Feature - Silicon Web Costumers` Guild

Feature
The Cybermen –
Nightmare
in Silver
Stacy Meyn* and
Tracy Newby*
A dynamic duo of props and costuming
effects talk about one of the most feared
creatures in the pantheon of Doctor Who
nemeses, and show you how to build them.
Background
“You belong to us. You will be like us.
You are incomplete. You will be upgraded.
You will be deleted.”
To most Whovians, these chilling
words were just read in the latest distinctive
Cyberman voice (supplied by Nicholas
Briggs, who also voices the current Daleks).
Battlestar Galactica’s Cylons and Star Trek’s
Borg Collective owe more than a few nods
to Doctor Who and the Cybermen. One of
the Doctor’s most prevalent foes, the
Cybermen originally were an organic
species from Mondas, Earth’s twin.
As the Mondasian planet drifted out of
the solar system, self-preservation efforts led
to more cyber and less man, and they had no
qualms about adding to their ranks by
conscripting Earth humans via “cyberconversion” or “robotisation”. While there
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Copyright © 2010 Silicon Web Costumers' Guild
have been more Cybermen versions than
Doctor regenerations, we will touch upon
several of the more rank-and-file iterations
and briefly examine some build methods
using differing media.
Conceptualized by humans Dr. Kit
Pedler and Gerry Davis, the Cybermen
debuted in 1966 during “The Tenth Planet”
serial, with William Hartnell as the First
Doctor. The early Cyberman costumes were
created by BBC costume designer
Alexandra Tynan,
credited as “Sandra
Reid.” Tynan trained at
Belfast College of Art
and worked as a
costume designer for the
Royal Shakespeare
Company and the
National Theatre before
accepting a staff role at
the BBC in 1964.
“Mark/MK”
variants would pop up
during Classic Who,
running the gamut of
materials and props,
some appearing more
convincing than others.
Cybermen costumes
consisted of rubber
diving outfits,
repurposed flight suits,
cricket player gloves, and Doc Martens
painted silver. Chest packs, various tubing
and PVC pipe, even practice golf balls could
and did show up on the Cybermen, who
seemed to change with every appearance on
the program. Some design elements did
remain consistent, such as the iconic helmet
“handles” and rounded eyeholes. Typically
silver or steel-like, black “stealth”
Cybermen were seen in “Attack of the
Cybermen.”
Mondasian Cybermen, designed by Alexandra Tynan, used repurposed rubber diving
outfits. Screenshot of television program from the Tardis group. on wikia.com.
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February 2014
Build-a-figure classic and new series Cybermen toys, 2008. Photo: DrWhoSite Merchandise Guide,
"Earthshock" Cyberman. Photo: Ash Cybershock.
“Here they come…walking down the street…” Old Cybermen from “The Invasion” 1968, and November 2010 recreation. Photos: Life and Sciences blog on blogspot.com.
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Yet another redesign occurred in
2013’s “Nightmare in Silver”, featuring
blindingly-fast, instantly-upgradeable
Cybermen with layered armor, considered a
merge between the Mondasian and Cybus
Industries models.
NuWho brought on a completely
revamped and terrifying Cyberman, hailing
from a parallel universe version of Earth and
manufactured by Cybus Industries. The
mission remained the same: make more
Cybermen by “upgrading” humans and other
lifeforms through an excruciating process of
replacing organics with cybernetics and
emotional inhibitors.
It bears mentioning that there have
been Cyberwomen in the Who realm.
Torchwood’s “Cyberwoman” involved
Institute Director Lisa Hallett becoming
partially converted and fully insane. Her
Cybergetup is more Thierry Mugler than
Thomas/Gorton.
War Cyberman from “Nightmare in Silver” (2013).
Cyberman by Russell T. Davies.
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The 2006 two-parter “Rise of the
Cybermen” and “The Age of Steel”
showcased the crueler, more heavilyarmored, Art Deco-influenced Cybermen.
Production designer Edward Thomas and his
team, with Millennium FX’s Neill Gorton,
made the Cyberman design much more
imposing, at 6ft 7in with a heavy tread, and
a burnished steel look with the Cybus
Industries logo on the chest.
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Partially converted Cyberwoman. Image from
ProjectTorchwood on blogspot.com.
February 2014
In “Doomsday”, the first Doctor Who
episode to feature both the Daleks and the
Cybermen onscreen simultaneously, Yvonne
Hartman fights her “upgrade” and clings to a
vestige of her personality to thwart a
Cybermen attack, appearing to weep an oillike liquid. While she did not get armored,
Mercy Hartigan briefly commanded the
Cyberking dreadnought in the Christmas
Special “The Next Doctor”, which also
showed a Cybershade and Cyberleader. For
a handy chart of the Cybermen hierarchy
and related denizens over the years (plus a
lovely little Dalek display), visit the
Cybermen Designs page of the Doctor Who
website.
The Builds
As far as popular builds, we will cover
a Classic MK I and Nu Who (Russell T.
Davies or “RTD”) era model. We will finish
up by discussing some of our own vacuumforming ideas for Classic and Nu Cybermen.
Visit the Cyberman Creator page of the
DoctornWho website to familiarize yourself
with Cyberparts and assembly,
Bob Mitsch build
Bob Mitsch built an amazing MK I
Cyberman from 1975’s “Revenge of the
Cybermen”. He wanted to “tackle a classic
era Cyberman…because hey…Cybermen
just rock.” No argument there. After mulling
over a few versions, he chose his favorite
Cyberman design, the 1975 “Revenge of the
Cybermen” style. It turned out to be the first
Doctor Who story he “rented and later
owned on VHS.”
The Gloves. After a rubber glove and
paint debacle, Bob chose “silver nylon
costume gloves you can pick up at any
Halloween or costume store. They're long
which helps so it'll slip well under the body
suit and not slip out and show any skin. The
real gloves were apparently leather
motorcycle gloves sprayed silver by a
company called Morley. I may upgrade to
these but honestly I like the length of the
costume gloves (so they won't slip out from
the sleeve), the dexterity they give me.”
Cyber-converted Bob Mitsch. Photo: Vickie Sebring.
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The Body Suit. “I opted for a
Neoprene Wet Suit. But it has to be a
vintage style with the farmer john style
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MK I front.
February 2014
pants, and a jacket with center closure (not
to mention virtually no brand name or
design markings on it!). Also you may need
to order one size larger then what you'd
think you'd wear to allow for movement and
some shrinkage due to paint.”
Several painting experiments ensued,
“…because neoprene absorbs the paint it
takes ‘several’ coats and a primer to get it to
really gleam silver. I tried putting clear coat
on the pants the third time around but it
didn't seem to do that much good but FYI.
(The whole suit still needs minor touch ups
every time after I wear it.) For a final coat I
used metallic paint but silver should be fine
otherwise. Fabric paint is another option
here but I could never apply that evenly nor
be satisfied the right shade of silver...but
again FYI.”
The Knee/Elbow Coils. “Still not
quite sure what the BBC used for these as
they certainly look like they had pretty full
range of leg and arm motion. The best
option I found was dryer vent tubing had for
about 3ft length sections. I got the 4in
diameter for the elbows and the 6in diameter
for the knees. I refolded any loose hanging
metal underneath (pretty easily moldable
aluminum here) and then used duct tape on
the underside to smooth those rough edges
to avoid chaffing. For the elbows, I left the
tubes intact to be slipped on.
“For the knees I initially made them I
two pieces [but] I re-did them with the 6inch diameter tubing and made a cut down
the center that would face inner side of my
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knee when worn. Then I added strips of
velcro again along the overlap to seal them.
I used more velcro strips around the top
wetsuit portion and the bottom leather
legging portion to attach them and also have
it act as an extra connector for the wetsuit
and leggings. I still had restricted movement
but I could walk with that slow Cyberlumber and the knee joint held so I was
happy.”
New Connectors. “We took away 90%
of the velcro, replaced most of the side tubes
with a larger size and sewed on electronic
wire ‘C’ clamps to connect the tubes more
securely (yet allow them to be removed
when the suit has to come off!) Works like a
charm. The only tube issues I had was one
of the remaining Velcro tubes did drop off
and the body side tubes tended to bend
oddly but they held on after several
bystander brushes and a guy hugging me!”
The Belt. “The BBC Cyber-Belt looks
like it's pretty wide or thin depending on the
Cyberman you're looking at and it's got
sectional hexagonal look to it. My guess is
that it's another plastic piece modified from
an older costume in the wardrobe or custom
made. For mine I took an old leather belt
and sniped off the buckle and belt notches
(so make sure it's LONG). Then I got some
plastic tubing at used for gardening and
plumbing in the 1-2-cm diameter range. I cut
off two lengths to match the belt and then
sliced them both length-wise down the
center.
MK I rear.
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“Using this new cut 'slit' I slipped both
lengths over the upper and underside of the
belt to create the edging. I thought I'd need
some glue to help hold it on but to be honest
the plastic was pretty strong and it held fine
on its own. Once done I primed and sprayed
the whole belt silver in 2 coats and put it on
the suit using 4 velcro strips. Although to
help hide the back joint, we used some spare
leather already sprayed silver from my
leather pants and folded it over the point
where the belt met once with velcro and it
masked it much better. “
New Belt. “I hated the fact my original
belt wasn't sectional or terribly wide. Thanks
to my good friend Alexi, a new one was
crafted out of L-200 foam, using insulating
1-inch diameter tubes for the edges (which
were cut in half and barge glued over the
top/bottom for the trim) and put over the old
belt to secure it back onto the suit. The back
section was riveted on over the thin leather
piece we crafted as the belt joint/velcro
connector to make it look more uniform and
hide the join.”
The Side/Arm/Leg/Back Tubing.
“Not entirely sure what was used here again
on the BBC version. It looks like vacuum
tubing so…I bought 5 sets (5 feet per set) of
¾-inch split wire covering - the black ribbed
plastic tube one would use to centralize their
wires and make it look neat going from TV
to speakers or whatnot. I primed and sprayed
all of these silver. Although even with a
clear coat the paint had a tendency to chip
off with moderate wear and tear so they
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always need a touch up. I'll probably try the
Krylon plastic paint next time.”
The Shoulder/Back Discs. “For the
two shoulder and back pieces or discs - it
looks like BBC had special molded plastic
pieces that could go over the tubes…I found
a close match with large bottle mouthwash
caps and 3-inch diameter spice tins. I went
with the space tins since they had better
scale and I only had to paint the tops of
them. Plus they were metal so I debated
using strong magnet to keep them on- but in
the end we used velcro strips again. “The
Leggings: In order to simulate the open legs
I used the bottoms of leather pants. I used
women's leather pants as they tapered better.
I cut them off just above the knees and
added velcro strips on both sides of the
knees of the wetsuit so the leggings would
fit over them with about 2 inches overlap.”
The Boots. “I used a pair of black
leather combat boots. Timberlands basically
with a high ankle. I primed and sprayed
these silver which worked fine but the paint
tends to crack when worn so I plan to use
the leather spray on them before wearing
them again.”
The Chest Unit. “The little I know
about the BBC original was that it was refitted from the ‘Moonbase’ costumes. It's a
fiberglass shell and the circuitry in the side
panels are from an old TV set. I started with
a long center cardboard box. I got mine from
the box packing from my old DVD player.
However a good wine bottle box should
work too - as long as it's sturdy cardboard
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Almost there! Stay on target…
February 2014
and has as little writing/embossing on it as
possible. I cut a hole in the bottom front of
the box and took a cheap flashlight,
unscrewed the top light and placed it in the
hole. I stuffed it first with newspaper and
used a little glue gun to secure it in place.
Then I found some vintage 1930's radio
speaker cloth that had a great crisscross
pattern that looked close to the diagonal
mesh used in the onscreen prop. I cut off a
piece of this speaker cloth and glue gunned
it on the front of the box.
“Next I purchased two vintage ice cube
trays (1950's or 60's- tin aluminum with
removable ice cube section). I took out the
ice cube sectionals and stuffed them both
with newspaper and leveled it off with thin
cardboard. Then I bought a second set of
1930's Radio Speaker cloth with a darker
tone/denser mesh to look like the display
version of the chest unit. I cut out two pieces
using the trays to trace the pattern. I glued
both pieces of radio cloth onto the ice cube
trays. Another option on the chest unit sides
I considered are those long rectangular tool
parts trays with the clear plastic coverings
like drill bit and screwdriver heads...or using
license plate frames over ice cube trays or a
cardboard shell. So FYI.”
Back to the finished product. “I
bought two sheets of thin foam. I cut out
‘frames’ for all three chest sections to cover
the rough fabric edges and unify the look. It
took a few attempts to get good looking
'false frame' or each but after getting
something close I glued all three over the
trays/box. Then I placed all three on thick
cardboard and glued them together using 3M
Super77 spray adhesive and more glue gun both at the side seams and onto the
cardboard to be the base. Finally I primed
and sprayed the entire chest unit with the
silver spray paint.
“Last touch - I bought four round black
jacket buttons and glued them in the square
pattern in the lower right panel so I would
have a fake 'control' to hit and ‘activate’ my
helmet gun. To help keep the buttons
Screen-used chest unit for “Revenge of the Cybermen.”
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attached, I used a knife to create small slits
in the fabric and slipped the back of the
buttons in with the glue. I attached the chest
unit to the suit (remarkably light as it is)
with two long velcro strips from the
cardboard backing to both sides of the front
zipper on the wetsuit. Not perfect, but it
seemed to do the job really well. Total cost
for the materials involved ran around $65.”
The Helmet. “Unless you're naturally
good with paper mache or fiberglass
molding you'll probably need to buy a
Helmet which is the most distinctive piece
of this costume - the make it or break it part!
I got mine from a UK seller…who made
garage kit fiberglass copies of the ‘Invasion’
and ‘Revenge’ style Cyber-helmets.
New Chest Unit. “This was the major
piece I wanted to upgrade. A proper chest
unit! Alexi helped me here again, crafting
the base again out of L-200 foam. I used a
'67 Chevy model kit for the fake circuitry
and super glued it on the side panels. Then
three sections of plexiglass were cut and
rounded/sanded down and riveted over the
sides. The third sheet was painted silver for
opaqueness and glued to the middle section.
“Once I got the Helmet - I found that
you could still somewhat make out my eyes
and mouth in it so I added a dark blue
photography gel to the eye holes inside and
a stretch of black nylon from some
pantyhose for the mouth and they worked
fine. HOWEVER! I found when wearing it
the gel tended to fog up and ergo render me
blind. So I've since put in black nylon for
the eyes too so it'll 'breathe' and not fog up
again.
“To help keep me cool I also installed
using velcro and duct tape two mini-CPU
fans inside with a 9-volt batteries for them to
run on. They're pretty quiet and make a good
bit of difference in keeping my head cool
inside.”
Helmet tweak. “I re-enforced the
mini-fans inside the helmet while replacing
the dark blue gel at the eyes (which fogged
up last time) with a stretched piece of black
nylon. My visibility is not quite as good but
at least I won't fog up!”
We added some dark mesh-looking
sandpaper over this and created the middle
'grill'. Then we added the same jacket
buttons (sanded down to more of a flat and
mate finish) to the right side panel and
added some plastic wire (like those used to
hold toys in their packages) for the button
wiring. Then we cut off the bottom of a cup,
made a resin copy to give it more solidity
and glued it in place at the bottom for the
'lens'. We added a circle of plexiglass over
this. Last touch, I glued together 5 strips of 3
silver bolts each and glued them on top of
the center piece. We also re-outfitted the
chest and the shirt piece with hooks and
loops to more easily (yet securely) fasten
and unfasten the Chest Unit to the suit.”
As far as comfort factor, Bob warns
that the costume can be “tolerated by the
wearer for no more than 2-3 hours without a
good break.” He definitely recommends
Under Armor as a base. Bob also pointed us
toward a “Cybermaniacs and Builders”
Facebook group that shares the work of
other builders who are doing different
designs, such as the “Earthshock”
Cyberman. Bob has recently started a “Tenth
Planet” Cyberman build.
Shiny! Bob’s MK I “upgrade” (photo by Kevin Kittridge).
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Malaki Keller build
Malaki Keller cleverly created an
awesome RTD Cyberman using foam. This
process is popular among anime fans who
want to make the Gundam and mecha suits
as they can get decent detail in a wearable,
articulating medium. It is also a brilliant
alternative to vacuum-forming if one does
not have those resources. The photos on the
next several pages show key steps. For all
the pictures of Malaki’s build, visit his
“Cyberman” photo album on Facebook.
Malaki’s friend “Brian Uiga is a big
fan of Inspector Spacetime…it was
something I had heard of as a parody of
Doctor Who, but not to any great detail.
Thanks to Brian I was given the opportunity
to create the iconic Circuit Chaps for [the]
web series.”
Above left: Assembling the helmet templates. Above right: Face template. Below left: Yes, that kind of foam, plentiful
and fairly inexpensive. Below right: Layering the foam to form the helmet. Mal used a bandsaw to trim the pieces.
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Above left: Getting the faceplate right. Above center: Assembling the torso templates. Above right: Head and chest coming together. Below left: RTD arm. Mal coated the pieces in
vinyl and painted silver. The coating is Plasti-Dip aerosol and the paint is Design Master Super Silver. Below right: The piping detail for the joints. Mal used foam stripping glued over
a fabric base. The base is then sewed together to make a tube and coated with vinyl. Extra coats were used for the joints so they would handle the wear and tear.
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Above left: Now for those pesky hands by tracing the templates…so many templates. Above right: Layering the pieces on the glove. Below left: Sealing and painting the paws.
Below right: Airbrushed shading to make the detail pop, and then added a coat of clear gloss to seal.
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Test fitting: Mal’s RTD “upgrade” is nearly complete. Photos: Makaki Keller. For all the pictures of Malaki’s build, visit his “Cyberman” photo album on Facebook.
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Tracy's Vac-forming Tips
I will not go into all the methods for
the art and science of vacuum-forming or
vac-forming. I just want to talk about basic
techniques to show of how many of the
Cybermen seen on TV were made. Even the
Stormtroopers of the original Star Wars
trilogy were vac-formed. It is a great way to
do “hardware” or rigid costumes.
First, a few disclaimers:
1. There are a few up-front expenses like
building the heating box. You can use
your oven with LOTS of ventilation.
2. The process requires some sculpting
skills, mechanical skills, patience and
a willingness to shed some blood as
well as sweat in the process.
3. It can get VERY stinky and some
plastics release somewhat toxic fumes.
4. Once you have gone over to the Vacside, you won’t want to come back…
What parts of a Cyberman can and in
my opinion should be vacuum-formed?
Definitely the helmet: lighter than fiberglass
and likely cooler than layers of foam that is
basically insulation. It has a rigid quality
that is only matched by metal, fiberglass
(too stinky for most people), or clear coating
the dickens out of other medium.
Having built Star Wars Stormtroopers,
Colonial Marines armor (Aliens), and a few
other odds and ends with vac-forming, it is
my preferred method for making “hardware”
costume pieces. There are several reasons:
1. Once made, the molds last far longer
than silicone molds for casting resin
(some molds are made of stone, wood,
metal or fiberglass). Add in some
polycarbonate plastic detail pieces and
you have a nearly indestructible mold.
2. With nearly indestructible molds you
can build as many sets as you want:
can we say ARMY of Cybermen?
3. Molds can be duplicated and resized to
fit taller, shorter, thinner, or thicker
costumers.
4. Spare parts are easier to produce, and
save time over repairing other
mediums.
5. It is easier to trade parts or (I do not
encourage copyright infringement) sell
bits to help fund a TARDIS project.
If you go this route for building an
RTD or “Nightmare in Steel” Cyberman,
you will need access to a
vacuum former. Professional
shops can pull parts for
you, but they want the
molds to be metal, wood or
fiberglass; Ultracal 30
molds are too fragile for
their machines and can
crack or shatter when
they pull the parts
and bang them out of
the sheet. If you are like me,
you are a do-it-yourselfer and
want to build your own.
Making the table
Making your own vacuum former is
not too hard, and once you have one you
will thank me later. A vacuum forming
system has two parts: the heating box and
the vac-table. The heating box must generate
enough heat to cause the plastic to become
soft and pliable, around 250 to 350 degrees
F, though some materials form at higher and
some at lower temperatures. If you are very
careful you can build frames that fit inside
your oven, but only do this if your kitchen is
ventilated VERY WELL! Gases released by
heated or burning plastic can be toxic.
If you build your own box, you can use
electric dryer coils, 220V, 3-phase circuit, or
even electric hot plates for each square foot
(4 for a 2’ x 2’ box, 6 for a 2’ x 3’ box, etc.).
These run on 110/120V wall outlet voltage
and amperage. If you are not electricallyinclined, have a friend help you out. Use 16gauge (or thicker) aluminum that can be
riveted or screwed together. Even if you use
your oven, you will need to build the table
as well as the frames that hold the plastic.
The table should be slightly larger
than the largest frame. Use sturdy marine
grade plywood at least ¾” thick and
cover it in neoprene foam rubber. Cut a
hole in the middle of the table
to accommodate a plastic
elbow fitting that attaches to
a large shop-vac to pump out
all the air between the hot
plastic and your mold(s).
Vac table exploded view. Drawing: Cris Knight.
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Make the frames of ¼” to ½” thick
wood that is 1 ½” to 2” wide. Use hinges,
screws, or other fasteners to hold the front
and back frame pieces together. If you are
pulling small parts you can use smaller
dimensions, with the maximum size being
what your oven or hot box will handle.
Making molds
Once you build a vacuum forming
system, the main costs are plastic, electricity
and molding materials. Clay is not too
expensive and oil based clay can be reused if
you take care not to get any foreign
materials mixed into it. Ultracal 30
is a plaster-like material that can
be poured into a first pull off of a
clay or wood mold. You can sand,
carve or shape it later to get the
finished mold. A drawback is they
can be heavy for making large parts
(chest plates, thigh pieces, etc.).
You can make your molds from
pink art foam by layering it together and
using a thinner plastic for the first pull
which I would fiberglass into. Yes I did say
the other F word. Fiberglass is great for a
mold as it is light-weight, strong, flexible
(unlike Ultracal), and can be used with
Bondo for a mold as precise as you need it.
For mold making, visit the lazywebs
and locate many examples of what is done
professionally for manufacturing, and by
artists for various projects.
Working with the plastic
Start with high impact polystyrene
(HIPS), which has a low forming
temperature. You can find it at Tap Plastics
or most other plastic suppliers. It takes great
detail, especially in lower thicknesses. It is
similar to the styrene used in plastic model
kits and the glue is a solvent that melts the
two pieces together. Other plastics like ABS,
acrylic or polycarbonate require different
forming temperatures and can be finicky to
handle as their forming range is tighter than
that of other plastics.
I recommend buying an inexpensive
band saw to make cutting out
parts easier. Trim the plastic fairly
close to the finished size and
shape after removing it from the
frame. For very close trimming
use a Dremmel or similar electric
hand tools and some sandpaper on a
wooden or rubber block. You can
glue, rivet, bolt, Velcro, or attach the
parts with magnets.
Finishing the plastic
Cybermen are essentially silver, so
you just need the surface to be consistent
with the material surface you are trying to
duplicate. Fill in spaces, gaps or gouges with
Bondo, model putty, or take scrap pieces and
mix it with the glue to make a paste that will
fill the gaps. A good sandable auto primer in
gray works great for this. You can always
sand the finish colors between coats to get a
Above: Example of vacuum-formed Cyberman helmet.
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smooth finish. Paint hides mistakes or goofs
like nobody’s business.
Hobby, outdoor, and automotive paints
will stick to HIPS. If you want distressed
surfaces or something that looks leathery or
like rough metal, you can over-heat the
plastic slightly so it “orange peels” a bit to
create the look of rough hammered metal.
Use a clear coat to protect the paint.
Acknowledgements
Special thanks to Bob Mitsch and
Makaki Keller for allowing us to use their
photos and project descriptions.
Stacy Meyn was doomed to a fate of
costuming and prop-building as mom
performed in music and theater groups and
dad scratch-built intricate historical and
sci-fi models. Stacy has worked on and won
awards for softwear and hardwear in the
Star Trek, Star Wars, BSG, Firefly, Aliens,
and Jin-Roh realms, and enjoys dabbling in
period costuming. Someday she will learn to
sew more than a blind hem stitch.
Tracy Newby is a Sci-Fi and historical
costumer who wears many hats... and
helmets:501st Stormtrooper Legion,
Battlestar Galactia, Firefly and Star Trek.
Having learned from professional prop
makers in L.A., he is always happy to pass
on what he has absorbed from studying at
the feet of the masters -- vacuum forming,
mold making, resin casting, fiberglassing
and machining of steel, aluminum and
plastic and you have some great hardware.
He can also work with "software".
February 2014