OPEN EYE COSMOPROF BOLOGNA

OPEN EYE
COSMOPROF BOLOGNA
No. 22 | Easter 2014
beautiful thinking
I N TRO DUCTION
01
For our 22nd edition of Open Eye we once again made our annual trip to
Bologna for
Cosmoprof 2014 to gather the latest trends and innovations currently making waves
in the beauty industry. As always, Korea is leading the way when it comes to innovation
with some interesting developments in skincare and colour cosmetics. The ubiquitous ‘green’
brands were also out in full
force, but this year we spotted brands that felt more refined and
considered and were just as keen to shout about their
efficacy credentials as much as
their eco status and accreditations.
We’ve edited what we saw down to a curated selection of the best brand stories, trends and
innovations that have captured our inner beauty junkie’s attention.
We hope you enjoy it.
G REE N B E A U T Y
02
You’ll probably be thinking that the green beauty trend is old
news, but the offering from the sector has never been more
exciting. Not only are these brands shouting about their green
and eco-friendly credentials, but they’re also proving to be just
as effective as their high-tech counterparts. It seems to us that
the new consumer attitude towards making positive lifestyle
choices is helping the green beauty market become more
lucrative than ever.
ESTEL L E + THI L D
Extremely popular in its native land, Estelle + Thild is a Swedish brand
that holds one of the highest green certifications available – ECOCERT.
Pernilla Rönnberg, who has an ethos of creating products that are
beautiful, yet functional, originally developed the brand naming it after
her two children. Having been praised by countless beauty editors it’s
now firmly established as an effective brand that just so happens to
have eco-friendly and green credentials.
G REE N B E A U T Y
03
TO łPA
Tołpa is a frank and honest Polish brand with a
sophisticated and refined approach to skincare.
The company believes the world is too cluttered
and we should only have what we need. For this
reason they’re big on offering samples and advice
to customers to ensure they purchase the formula
most effective for them. They’re so confident in the
results they claim once you’ve found a formula that
suits your skin, you won’t have to try anything else.
You can have a bathroom that resembles a place of
tranquillity as opposed to a cosmetic showroom.
Their formulations are as natural as possible, but
they’re happy to admit they could still do more
towards becoming as green, yet as effective
as possible.
M O NA & LE O
Madrid-based skincare brand Mona & Leo have
some beautiful typographic styling on their
packaging. This gives a fresh feel to the brand
and allows it to stand out from the rest of the
brands on offer. All of Mona & Leo’s products are
designed, formulated and produced in Spain and
have received positive press for their results.
Their deliberate attempt to stay away from natural
cues demonstrates the personality of the brand
and was certainly capturing the attention of the
Cosmoprof crowd.
G REE N B E A U T Y
04
1. Kripa V enezia
One brand that stood out from the rest in the
1.
natural beauty hall was a colour cosmetics line
called Kripa. The Italian brand has developed
a range of cosmetics with the environment and
quality natural ingredients in mind, but with the
performance of mainstream makeup brands.
All products have been formulated without any
harmful ingredients, and its sleek, sophisticated
branding ensures it looks confident enough to
take on the main players in the field.
2 . ROSEHIP PLUS
Founded in 2008 in Australia, RosehipPLUS was
originally a supplement brand of pure rosehip
oil. They’ve since launched two products into the
beauty arena – a cold pressed rosehip oil bottle
and roll on. Hailed as a multi-tasking powerhouse
of benefits, RosehipPLUS helps to thoroughly
nourish and protect the skin with its natural
anti-oxidant and moisturising properties. They
believe what sets them apart from other Rosehip
2.
3.
Oil manufacturers is their custom approach to
harvesting. They select only the finest quality
rosehip seeds from the Southern regions of Chile
to ensure a pure quality oil. What we like about
this brand is its single-minded commitment to a
sole ingredient coupled with the manner in which
it is reflected in the branding.
3. ESSEN HER B
EssenHERB positions itself as a natural brand
with honesty and integrity at the heart of its ethos.
The brand discloses all information about the
ingredients it uses, even if they’re not as green as
the brand would hope for. Their products are as
natural as possible, but only if the ingredients are
effective. Economical packaging is used so that
they can cut costs and pour more money into high
quality ingredients. We loved the simplistic, clean
design and their adoption of the copy heavy front
of pack trend.
B E AUTY GADGETS
05
Influence from Eastern Asia has resulted in beauty gadgets
becoming more and more mainstream over the past few years.
This influence coupled with the trend of bringing the salon into
the home meant that the beauty gadgets on display were more
prominent than ever this year.
CleanPop
Korean brand CleanPop had an array of cleansing brushes on display
at Cosmoprof. Similar to the cleansing brushes currently on the market,
but with one point of difference. The CleanPop has an attachment called
an NBR puff (which is essentially a make up sponge) to be used to apply
foundation to achieve a flawless make-up base in a more hygienic way.
0.065 mm pore brush
10 0 % NBR Puff
B E AUTY GADGETS
06
At Home Gel N ails
Bringing the salon into the home has been a trend that’s been gathering
momentum for the past few years. At home nail polish/gel hybrid kits
have gradually been making their way to market with the most recent
offering coming from a sub-brand of market leader Sensational.
Fuse Gelnamel is a tiny device that combines the benefits of a polish
and a gel to give a gel-like manicure that will remain shiny and chip
free for up to two weeks.
S hiseido Panasonic
U lt r asonic Beauty Device
Handy Mist
Not something we saw at Cosmoprof, but something that has been
on our radar for the past couple of months, is a collaboration between
Shiseido and Panasonic. They’ve created a device that allows customers
to quickly hydrate their skin on the go by delivering a micro fine mist
using the Shiseido AquaLabel Moisture Lotion through a vibrating
mesh. The device isn’t particularly new in Asia, but we’re starting to
see the ripple effects of ‘misting’ through the latest spray body lotions
and facial mists that are becoming increasingly popular in the West.
Skin Magni -C hecker
Having a rigorous skincare regime is all very well and good, but
sometimes the changes in skin tone, texture and appearance can be so
minimal that it’s difficult to tell if your skincare is having a visible effect.
That’s where the Japanese innovation, Skin Magni-Checker comes in. The
microscope device allows you to take detailed pictures of your skin before
and after to self-diagnose whether your products are actually working or
not. You then upload the pictures to your computer to keep a visual diary
of your skin so you can track it over time – should brands be worried?!
H A I R TRE N DS & INNOVAT IO N S
07
Hair care once again formed a large part of the exhibition.
Having stood in the shadow of skin and nail care for the
past few years, a surge in new innovations in the hair care
category are allowing it to stand out and capture attention
in the beauty market.
J OSH WO O D
Last year we had the pleasure of working with renowned colourist
Josh Wood to help him develop his new line of hair products. One of
the most well received products from the range has been the blending
wand. It’s one of those products that make you wonder ‘why didn’t
anyone think of this earlier?’ The blending wand is designed to be
used in-between your hairdresser appointments so you can easily
touch up your roots when needed.
H A I R TRE N DS & INNOVAT IO N S
08
WATER HARDN ESS
In our last Beyond Beauty Open Eye we mentioned a showerhead that
removes impurities from water to leave it filtered and purified. We’ve
since seen a couple of brands surface that are taking water hardness into
consideration including another shower head, this time from brand T3
Source. The device fits on to the head of your usual shower attachment
and essentially works like a BRITA filter for your hair and skin by filtering
out 95% of chlorine and other water impurities resulting in cleaner,
healthier water.
We’ve also spotted Area H20 - a range of hair care that’s been designed
to work with the level of water hardness in your area. Mineral ions are
present in all types of water and cling to your hair causing it to become
dry and brittle. Area H20 hair care attracts and washes away the mineral
ions to leave your hair cleaner, smoother and shinier.
SOF T WAT ER A R E A S
MEDIUM WAT ER A R E A S
HA R D WAT ER A R E A S
Co-washing
Co-washing, or “conditioner washing”, is the process of cleansing your
hair without using shampoo and instead skipping straight to conditioner.
This gentler way to clean hair maximises the colour longevity and is
particularly loved by those with curly and thick hair for its ability to fuse
the hair with moisture. It appears that several brands are now jumping
on board the trend by releasing dedicated co-washing conditioners.
FMCG brand Palmer’s have recently released a version as well as
more premium brands such as Ojon and Ouidad.
SK I N CARE & COSM ET IC T REN DS
A ND IN N OVAT IONS
09
1.
2.
The Korean Pavilion at Cosmoprof once again proved to
be a mecca for skincare and colour cosmetic innovations.
1. J asmine 3D Waterful System
A key stand that stood out to us at Cosmoprof was Bio Remedies
Therapeutic Cosmetics as it was filled to the brim with innovative
formulas. One such product was the Jasmine 3D Moist Powder which,
when applied to the skin, gives an instant cooling sensation. The powder
contains moisture capsules that immediately release jasmine water on
contact with the skin. It was a bizarre sensation that you have to try to
believe. The brand also showcased their Jasmine 3D Waterful Balm,
an incredibly hydrating makeup primer as well as their Jasmine 3D
Whipping Essence – a dual-layered whipped serum to deliver comfort,
softness and hydration to skin.
2 . Brilliant Love Heart Lip Care 3-Step System
Speaking to one of the brand representatives in the Korean section
led to a discussion about lip tinting which is a huge trend in Korea.
The process is a semi-permanent lip tint in a colour of your choice.
But before carrying out the treatment it’s advised that you thoroughly
3.
exfoliate and nourish the lips to ensure the tint colour comes through.
4.
One such kit that has been designed for this purpose is the Brilliant Love
Heart Lip Care 3-Step System. First, an exfoliating paste is applied to the
lips, followed by a hydrating lip gel patch (which we’ll admit looks a little
scary once on) before finally finishing with a lip moisturiser to ensure
your lips are in tip top condition ready for tinting.
3. Cushion Foundations
Nearly every Korean brand at Cosmoprof had what it called
a ‘cushion foundation’. A cushion foundation is a compact with
a BB cream saturated cushion in the base. A non-absorbent sponge
is then found in the top to press into the cushion and pat onto the skin.
Cushion foundations have been developed to offer a much more hygienic
way to apply BB/CC cream and to allow on-the-go touch ups.
4 . TONYMOLY BCDAT ION
Just when you thought the whole BB/CC trend was starting to
fade, Philippine-based brand, Tony Moly launched a product
called ‘BCDATION’ – an all in one BB/CC and foundation hybrid.
They’ve developed the product after their customers found BB creams
too heavy and CC creams too thin and weak. They’ve combined the two
to create an all in one product. Another hype product maybe, but it’s
proved one thing – the BB/CC trend is far from over!
F U T URE TREND P REDICT IONS
10
1 2 3 4
No.
No.
No.
No.
Scandinavian brands will
become the new French
pharmacy brands
TRENDS FROM KOREA WILL
CONTINUE TO MAKE THEIR
WAY WEST
PRODUCTS TO ADAPT AND
ALTER YOUR EXISTING ONES
WILL REMAIN POPULAR
AT-HOME BEAUTY GADGETS
WILL CONTINUE TO BE A
FLOURISHING MARKET
The French pharmacy trend has been growing
We’ve witnessed this for years with the BB cream
Clarins recently launched their Radiance-Plus
Coupled with the self-diagnosis trend we’re
in popularity over the past few years and
trend and predict it won’t be long before cushion
Golden Glow Booster, which is a product
seeing in the healthcare category will result in
has become increasingly more mainstream.
foundations, foaming oil cleansers and moist
designed to allow customers to create their
more beauty gadgets and devices emerging to
However, we predict a trend towards the
powders crop up on the Western beauty scene.
own made to measure self tanner. You simply
allow consumers to self-monitor and address
highly effective and beautifully designed
add drops to your current moisturiser to give
their concerns
Scandinavian brands will start to emerge
it a self-tanning benefit. Additionally, we’ve
over the next year.
seen Philosophy release their ‘Time In A Bottle’
moisturiser where the customer adds in the
active ingredient to ensure ‘peak potency’
and Illamasqua offer darker/lighter skin
base ‘mixers’. When a customer purchases an
Illamasqua foundation they can adapt the shade
of their foundation dependant on their skins
behaviour or desired look using the skin mixers.
beautiful thinking