TIME FOR CHANGE: L`IMPERO BECOMES CONVIVIO PRIZED

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TIME FOR CHANGE: L’IMPERO BECOMES CONVIVIO
PRIZED PURVEYOR: MEET VINNY THE OCTOPUS GUY
THE TRINITY: OLIVES, CAPERS, AND ANCHOVIES
behind the bar: THE ITALIAN JOB
BAROLO: TRADITIONAL VS MODERN
L ’ impero becomes
convivio
In reopening as Convivio, Michael White and Chris Cannon are recapturing a sense of fun,
and highlighting the warmth and generosity that southern Italian food represents.
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7 Time for Change
Owner Chris Cannon opens up on
the past of L’Impero and the future
of Convivio.
11 The Trinity
As bountiful ingredients in southern
Italy, olives, capers, and anchovies
stand out as the culinary trinity.
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12 Meet Vinny
Vinny the Octopus Guy
helps these eight-armed
invertebrates take center
stage on the plate.
13 No Ordinary Butcher
Pat LaFrieda is setting new
standards for the Chef–Butcher
relationship, and it’s all great
for what’s on your plate.
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15 Barolo
Tasting the difference
between the lean and austere
“traditional” Barolos and
the opulent, dark-colored
“modern” ones.
16 The Italian Job
A traditional digestivo, the
bitter liqueur amaro, is
making its way into satisfying
before-dinner cocktails.
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© 2006 Nestlé Waters North America, Inc.
A WATER THAT BELONGS ON THE WINE LIST.
THE PRIDE OF TUSCANY SINCE 1927, LUSH AND LUMINOUS ACQUA PANNA FROM S.PELLEGRINO IS THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD AND WINE.
open letter from
Chris Cannon
A C o n v i v ial
T ran s f o r m at i o n!
In the last few months since the opening of Convivio, a number of customers have stopped at
the door and asked the question, “Why did you change the name of the restaurant?” Some have
been quite upset, citing their love of L’Impero and warning me that their meal had better be good!
I consequently feel the need to explain the thought process behind a change that, to some, might
seem counterintuitive, given the success of a restaurant that rated three stars in the New York
Times and won a James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in the US in 2002.
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“By reopening as Convivio, I’ve been able to rethink the menu, giving
me the opportunity to implement my culinary vision and interpretation of
southern Italian cuisine with flavorful and soulful dishes.”
—Chef Michael White
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apori
I originally opened L’Impero in 2002 as a
I are trying to recapture that sense of fun
restaurant that would provide a high standard
that was lost, and to highlight the warmth
of service and cuisine at a reasonable price.
and sense of generosity that southern
Our original prix fixe menu was $48 for a four-
Italian food represents. We have added a
course menu of antipasto, primi, secondi, and
whole new category of sfizi, or small tastes
dessert. You could, of course, order à la carte
to the menu, and in general increased the
as well, but we felt that we wanted to push
indigenous varietals as well as New York’s first all-
selections by 40 percent and lowered our
our diners into ordering the traditional Italian
Italian microbrew list and an excellent variety of amari.
prices by 15 percent.
meal as opposed to eating pasta as a main
the transition.
Finally, we have revitalized the wine list with the help of
our excellent Sommelier Levi Dalton, who came to us
from stints at Masa and Daniel. The new list features an
extensive selection of very interesting southern Italian
The results speak for themselves. Our business is up
course or appetizer, as is common in the
As for the décor, we asked our partner,
dramatically, customers are happy, and we are proud
United States. The response was fantastic, as
Vicente Wolf, to simply fix some of the issues
to have received three stars from The New York Times
the restaurant was packed with enthusiastic
or deficiencies that we had in the seating
and New York magazine, and a mention as one of the
diners from day one. Over the years, the prix
layout of the room, and to, in general, give
best new restaurants of the year from John Mariani at
fixe became costlier as we began to use
the room a more youthful Italian flair. We
Esquire magazine.
more expensive products in order to satisfy
incorporated burnt-orange fabrics on the
our mistaken perception of what a three-star
banquettes and clad some of the columns
restaurant should be. Eventually, I felt the
and walls in glass to give a more spacious
restaurant lost the conviviality and bustle
and airy feel to the dining experience. The
that made each and every meal feel special.
tabletop incorporates high-polished stainless
In reopening as Convivio, Michael White and
steel chargers and new dishes to complete
We hope to see you again soon, and thank you for all of
your support in the past.
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Cong and Chefuccessfu ment.
er s tablish
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on andining es
Pat La Frieda Meats has bee
n New York City’s purveyor
of the Finest meats
for three generations. Our
close collaboration with che
fs has been the cornersto
of thousands of enjoyable
ne
dining experiences. We pride
our
selves on bringing the
small farm to the big city
by supporting family run pro
ducers so that the best
quality and most Flavorful
meats end on up on the din
er’s plate.
Patrick LaFrieda - President
Mark Pastore - Vice Presid
ent
Selim
Jazz music is our way of making wine.
We improvise the melodies of the grapes.
We make a unique performance of every
harvest. Selim is like Miles Davis in his
late phase: light and chilled out; only the
sound of his trumpet reminded listeners
of his sad ballads.
Description:
Selim shows a brilliant greenish yellow
color. The nose and palate denotes
intense, clean, and pleasing aromas
and flavors that start with hints of
pineapple, pear, and apple followed by
aromas of peach and tangerine.
Perella
Naima
The fiano grapes for the production
Naima epitomizes this part of the
of Perella come from the oldest
Cilento. It is created here because it
vineyard of our estate.
Inspired by Ella Fitzgerald, it is an
assertive wine, yet suggestive; it
whispers but does not cry; it has
the gift of simplicity turned into
absolute profundity.
Description:
Straw in color. Peach, nuts,
and soy aromas followed by a
beautifully rounded, full-bodied,
is only here that it can happen. This
wine, whose name conjures up
Coltrane, is not a constructed
wine–it rejects any control, just
as the land it comes from.
Description:
Viticoltori De
Conciliis
making wine that
feeds the soul
Dark garnet in color with
pronounced chocolate and coffee
aromas. Tannins are sweet and
soft, resulting in a velvety finish.
and supple texture.
KA!
Our Ka! falls between the moscato wines
and the continental passiti wines. So
it brings with it the bright sea shades
of the islands and the rigorously
continental approach of the inland
regions, reflected in the selection of
the grapes, which are meticulously
removed by hand from their vines.
Description:
The Ka! is a Moscato Bianco Passito,
full with great flavors of flowers
and peaches.
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in the k itchen
the B uilding bloc k s of
s outhern
i talian c uisine
with Chef Michael White
Every cuisine has its building blocks: flavor
builders that add depth to food. In France,
you start with shallots, butter, thyme, and
bay leaves for the base of a sauce. In Italy,
it’s garlic, onion, and oil; it’s tomatoes; it’s
the trinity: olives, capers, and anchovies.
If you sauté zucchini in olive oil, it would be delicious enough,
but when you add a little garlic, you add and assert flavors
that make it even better.
There are a lot of misconceptions about southern Italian cooking. First, almost everything that it is noted for,
including the beloved tomato, came from somewhere
else but over thousands of years has been incorporated into a unique cooking style. Most Americans think
southern Italian food is ziti and red sauce, because
those were the kind of dishes southern Italian immigrants made in the 1930s, ’40s, and ’50s. In reality, the
playbook is huge for southern Italian food, from couscous
to seafood, the use of mint, and sheep’s cheese, sausages,
and peppercinos. Pickling, preserving in vinegar, is a big
part of their culture.
Southern Italy is not comprised of rich terrain, yet
it yields a bounty of ingredients that produce
more pronounced flavors perhaps because
of the extra effort needed to survive. Olive trees flourish best in limestone beds,
tolerating drought thanks to sturdy root
systems. Craggy hills drop to seascape
borders; the kind of place you can
find caper bushes growing with wild
abandon. The waters on the Sicilian
coast teem with the herring’s cousin,
the anchovy. These are the jewels of
cooking, tiny additions that make the
whole even more delectable.
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the trinity
O lives . . . C apers . . . and A nchovies , oh my !
Olives
Capers
Anchovies
The rugged olive tree hails from Greece
and thrives in the similar climate—hot and
dry—of southern Italy. An evergreen known
for its silvery green leaves that have come to
symbolize abundance, glory, and peace, its
fruit is harvested late in the year, in November
and December. The once-popular harvesting
method or brucatura, pulling one olive at a
time off full branches, has given way to using
machines that clamp on the trunk to gently
shake the tree, with netting around the base
of the tree to catch the released olives. Due
to their high acidic content, freshly picked
olives can’t be consumed until they are
fermented: cure dried with salt, brine, or oil or
dry roasted. Best eaten at room temperature
as an aperitif or generously added to pastas
or meat dishes to build flavor.
Also introduced by the Greeks, caper bushes
grow wild in coastal areas with a similar
penchant for full sun as the olive tree. A
perennial spiny shrub, its fruit—a dark olivegreen bud the size of a kernel of maize—is
also called a caper. Caper berries, the second
bud of the plant, with seeds and a stamen,
are also gaining popularity and, like the
caper, are pickled before consumption in
either salt or a salt-and-vinegar solution.
This creates an intense pungent flavor best
described as a combination of mustard and
black pepper.
This small, common saltwater fish, related to the
herring, breeds abundantly in the temperate waters of
the Mediterranean, although overfishing has become
a source of concern in recent years. While fresh
anchovies have a mild flavor, the stronger taste usually
associated with these fish occurs due to the curing
process. Anchovies are generally gutted, salted in brine,
and later preserved in either salt or olive oil. They are
added whole to dishes or salads or ground into a paste
or “garum” for seasoning.
Chef White’s favorites
Castelvetrano: My favorite olive by far
because it has low brine. It’s a very meaty
olive by way of Sicily—bright green in color
and tastes like candy. They are not too salty,
with sweetness to them. Take a heavybottomed pan, smash the olives, remove
the pits, and you can spread it right onto
toast—they are amazing. Because it’s not
an aggressive-tasting olive, it’s awesome
with fish. Eating a Castelvetrano gives you a
different perspective on olives!
Ligurian Black Olive: From Liguria and
similar in taste to a French niçoise olive.
Handpicked in the hills of the Italian Riviera,
these small brownish-black olives are cured
in fresh, laurel-scented brine. Meaty with a
full aromatic flavor.
Gaeta: Small black olives that are wither
dry-cured (making them wrinkle) or brinecured (making them smooth and dark purple
in color). Very flavorful.
Chef White’s favorites
Pantelleria: These are the finest, without
question! They come from a tiny volcanic
island off the coast of Sicily, where they are
pickled in salt. I find capers in salt have a
more delicate flavor so that when you wash
off the salt, there is more of the caper’s
essence left intact. Capers can also lose
some of their texture to brine as well.
Cooking tips
The beauty of capers is that, on the flavor
spectrum, they can be sweet, sour, or salty.
So if you don’t want to add a heavy taste,
cook them out in your dish. Adding raw
capers to the end of the cooking process
brings more intensity to the plate.
Salmoriglio is a condiment that graces
the Italian table just like ketchup does in
America. It’s very versatile, consisting of
anchovy, onion, oregano, lemon juice, and
olive oil with a base of capers. It’s left out
on the table in a bowl and pairs well with
everything from steamed vegetables and
chicken to fish.
Chef White’s favorites
Porto salvo Anchovies: These are from Sicily and
are the best you will ever eat because instead of being
salty, they have sweetness to them. Red in color and
cured with just enough salt and bottled in this amazing
yellow oil, they are the Rolls Royce of anchovies. I’ve
watched people eat them right out of the jar!
Cooking tips
Anchovies are so versatile, you can add them just about
anywhere as a flavor-building block, and unlike capers
and olives, they disintegrate when they cook out, so no
one even knows when they are in a dish!
A great way to get the flavoring is by adding a few
drops of Colatura di Alici from Cetara on the Amalfi
Coast—the clarified drippings (blood and juices) of the
anchovies. Use it as a substitute for salt in a recipe.
Make a puree and serve with radishes. Pour the
anchovies into a blender and whip. You end up with a
mayonnaise-like consistency: very light and frothy.
Cooking tips
Don’t pair a strong-tasting olive like a Gaeta
with a salty dish—like fish. Use olives to
build and complement a dish. Warming them
up in a pan with your meat or fish or pasta
accentuates the flavor of the dish.
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purveyors
octopus :
Look for Vinny’s octopi to make
their small-screen debut on
this season’s Iron Chef!
finally getting a little tenderizing loving care
Once relegated to the position of that mysterious sea monster of the depths, and always on the
receiving end of squeamish faces on sight, these eight-armed invertebrates are finally getting
their due: center stage on the dinner plate.
Vincent Cutrone, owner of the Octopus Garden in
Brooklyn, a specialty fish market, credits the ballooning
food explosion in general for elevating the status of
octopus. “It has to do with quality food on the exotic side,”
he explains. “People are more disposed to experiment.
True, they still grimace when they see it, but they are at
least willing to taste it. I wouldn’t be surprised if you find
prepared octopus in supermarkets in the future.”
In the meantime, don’t fret: cephalopods dot the menus
of many of New York’s finest dining establishments
(including both Convivio and Alto). Word of mouth
accounts for the bulk of his business, with celebrity
chefs who are lured in by the product and hooked on his
processing techniques.
“Now, don’t try this at home,” laughs Vincent, as he
recounts stories of people who have tried to tenderize
octopus and cuttlefish in washing machines. “You’ll
end up with a very rusty machine in no time at all”—
not to mention a stinky one as well! His storefront in
Brooklyn houses a battery of custom-made machines
that basically paddle the fleshy mass into a palatable
state. One machine resembles a cradle, upon which a
container of salt water and ice and octopus is affixed.
As the cradle rocks back and forth, the motion allows
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the water to act like waves pounding the
creature into submission! Another machine is
equipped with paddles that sway back and
forth in a semicircular fashion, beating the
octopus with salty brine.
“This is not a new concept; ever since
humankind has taken octopus out of the sea,
they have tenderized it before consuming it.
Along the coast of the Mediterranean, they
beat them against the rocks in the salty
water. We recreated the technique through
our machines.”
Vinny’s octopi mainly come from the northern
Atlantic, off the coast of Africa, near the
Canary Islands, waters governed by strict
European Union rules. “Sustainable fishing is
the goal: the E.U. is careful not to let certain
areas get overfished. Plus, between October
and January, the season is closed.” Once the
octopi are taken out of the water, they are
immediately placed in blast freezers. “An item
that comes to us ‘fresh’ will take a minimum
of two to three days, and I don’t regard that as
fresh anymore. So it’s better they are shipped
frozen.” Although octopi do change color as a
defense mechanism, Vinny suggests picking
out ones that are white and crispy looking.
“Red is a sign of oxidation. Avoid that. Usually
after an octopus has been tenderized, it curls
into a ball and looks beautiful.”
While Vinny enjoys eating his octopus at such
restaurants as Convivio and Alto—“I like
seeing what people come up with”—he’s
happy to eat them, simply prepared, at home
as well. “I cut up larger ones into pieces,
throw them into a sauce made of onions and
tomatoes, and let it steep in there for half an
hour or so. Large octopi are perfect for salads.
The smaller ones—half-pounders or so—
can be eaten whole, either grilled, boiled, or
marinated. I usually slice them open on one
side, throw them on a hot grill for up to 10
minutes per side, and dress them in olive oil
and lemon.” With less than 1 percent of fat,
they are a perfect meal. “I was recently in
Italy, where you eat octopus raw after they
are tenderized with just a little lemon and
bread. Perfecto!”
L a F rieda says
“ E at my M eat ” and N ew Y or k ers are happy to comply
It’s printed on the side on his building in a bubble above a chicken—but don’t stop with their poultry.
Pat LaFrieda Meats has rapidly gained status for their amazing custom cuts and product-line selections
that make them the choice boutique meat supplier to New York’s top eateries.
Mark Pastore, Pat’s first cousin whose own
conditions. “I shine upon farms that are full
a heritage Berkshire breed that originally came from
family has always been in the meat business
circle: they grow what they feed their animals.
England and today is sustainably raised on three small
and who himself has racked up seven years
I prefer when everything is sustained based
farms out of the Midwest. It is 100 percent antibiotic
with the company, surmises they service
on one piece of land with one family or group
free, hormone free, free-pasture-raised pork.
about 500 restaurant accounts each week.
of people in charge; I don’t like outsourcing.
Mark obviously enjoys his rapport with Chef White
“Our chefs come to us primarily by word of
And since meat is a delicate item, how an
and Chris Cannon, whose restaurants he likens to a
mouth, which is really the best way to do
animal is handled—raised, harvested, and
magic show because “you never know what’s up their
business in this town,” he explains. “When
brought to me—is a very important part of
sleeves, but you’re always pleasantly surprised!” The
you have great chefs like Michael White
the process.”
most unusual dish Chef White ever served him was a
turning around and telling others about us, it
becomes a snowball effect.” Mark is proud
of the company’s relationships with their
chef-clients. LaFrieda has no sales people;
it is the butchers themselves who maintain
each connection, and where the bond of trust
begins.
The LaFrieda goal is to encourage people
to enjoy life through great meals at fine
restaurants by supplying a product that is just
not available at home. And therein lies the
relationship with the chef. At Convivio, there
is even a special pork chop named after Mark.
“I would always tell Chef White about a pork
whole veal tongue on a bed of risotto. “It was cute and
clever, just looking straight at me, but I have to say it was
also wonderful, like everything else Chef creates.” He
recommends the veal chop, also from the Amish milkfed line, as well as White’s whole suckling pig.
“Chef White roasts Duroc pigs whole, and they are
great,” adds Mark. The animals are raised on a familyowned farm in the Hudson Valley. “Duroc pigs are a rich
In a world where quality and sustainability
chop I wanted from the end of the rib, which
go hand in hand, all the animals they bring
is closest to the chuck, that has an extra piece
in are humanely raised on smaller farms in
of meat on it. It’s so juicy and tender and
upstate New York or the Midwest. All their
anyone in the meat business always goes
LaFrieda Meats are based in Manhattan’s Lower West
veal comes from Amish or Mennonite farms
for it. Michael added it to his menu based on
Village and have served the New York area for over
in Pennsylvania, for example, where Mark
my recommendation.” The chop comes from
routinely heads in order to check overall
a special signature line called Hampshire,
breed that marbles and muscles well. And at 20 to 50
pounds each, you can actually get them into an oven!”
90 years.
For more information, visit www.lafrieda.com.
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wine
A B it about
B arolo
E ric Z illier , S ommelier at alto
Never before have the wines of Italy been in such high demand
in the U.S. Among the most well known of these is Barolo.
Recognized for its ageability, structure, and balance, Barolo
hails from arguably the greatest of Italian wine regions.
The name “Barolo” is a Celtic derivation for wood or
orchard (brolio or brol). Barolo’s popularity has brought
with it many misconceptions about what it is, or what it
is supposed to be. Varied winemaking styles, from the
lean and austere “traditional” Barolos to the opulent,
dark-colored “modern” ones, makes it very difficult to
make sweeping characteristic generalizations about
the wine.
Barolo is produced in the region of Piemonte in the
northwestern corner of Italy, nestled between two
major mountain chains: the Alps to the north and the
Apennines to the south. The region’s altitude plays a
definite factor, ranging from 800 to 1400 feet, but the
critical issue is the grape’s exposure to the sun, since
the late ripening grape of Barolo, nebbiolo, struggles
to ripen even in the best of climes. For this reason, the
exposure of the grapes in the Piedmont hills is chosen
very carefully to capture as much sunlight as possible,
the best being south-southwest. Hence, words like
bricco (hilltop) or sori (slope) figure into many of the
labels in the region.
To qualify for the Barolo DOCG (Denominazione di
Origine Controllata e Garantita), the highest quality
level recognized within Italy, there is a lengthy list of
criteria that must be met: geographic zone, soil type,
yield (how many tons of grapes per acre), clones of
nebbiolo allowed (Michet, Lampia, and Rose), and even
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the type and size of the bottle (no less than
350cc). It is further decreed that the wine
have the color of “red garnet with orange
reflections”; have an odor of “perfume”
that is “ethereal, agreeable[, and] intense”;
and a “dry, full, robust, austere but velvety,
[and] harmonious” flavor. A governmentregulated panel tastes the wines of Barolo
to ensure that these specifications have
been met. In addition, all Barolo must be
aged for no less than three years, two of
which must be in oak. For a “Riserva,” the
wine must be aged for no less than five
years. These requirements are due to the
fact that nebbiolo naturally contains high
levels of acidity and tannin that tend to
soften over time.
There are 11 townships that produce
Barolo, five of which comprise 87 percent
of overall production. These are La Morra,
Barolo, Castiglione di Falletto, Serralunga
d’Alba, and Monforte d’Alba. The western
part of Barolo (La Morra and Barolo) makes
for more elegant, perfumed wine because
of the limestone clay soil, while the eastern
part of the region (Castiglione di Falletto,
Serralunga, and Monforte) produces more
robust, powerful, tannic wines due to
sandstone-based soils. A reason for this
difference is that the bluish soil (due to
manganese and magnesium) in the west is
younger and more fertile, whereas the soil
in the east is older, Helvetian soil, with more
iron. The less vigorous soil tends to slow
the growth of the vines to make for a more
powerful, age worthy wine.
Not unlike pinot noir or riesling, nebbiolo
has the potential to reflect the terroir more
purely than many other grapes. In the mid
19th century, Camillo Cavour (who was also
instrumental in the unification of Italy in
1861) called upon French oenologist Louis
Oudart to transform nebbiolo into something
more structured and age worthy since,
until then, most of the wines from the area
were sweet. Mr. Oudart was well aware of
the relationship between the soil and the
finished wine. Enjoyed by the nobles of
Turin and the House of Savoy, Barolo soon
earned the nickname “the wine of kings,
the king of wines.”
By the 1930s, the best areas for making
Barolo had been identified. The next
important chapter in its history happened in
the 1960s. A group of visionary winemakers
made a concerted effort to improve the wines
of Barolo. Partially influenced by Burgundian
winemakers, with whom they consulted,
a new focus on vineyard-specific Barolo
emerged. Some winemakers learned these
new techniques while others steadfastly
held to ancient practices. Two schools of
Barolo emerged: the “traditionalists” and
the “modernists.”
Traditional practices include long skin
maceration (where the skins of the grapes
are in contact with the unfermented juice),
the use of large Slovenian oak casks called
botti for aging, and no temperature control
during fermentation. The oxidation of the
must, or freshly pressed grape juice, during
this type of maceration actually lightens the
wine and increases tannins, causing the
wine to become brick or orange in color.
This process can also add other bacterial
odors. For some, these odors are a classic
trait of traditional Barolo; to others, these
aromas can be off-putting. Extended
bottle aging, sometimes 20 years or
more, is necessary to soften the tannins in
traditional Barolo. The best of these wines
can have an incredible aging potential of 50
years or more. Elements of earth, tar, and
rose can make for wines with unparalleled
structure. Some feel these wines are the
most accurate reflection of the terroir of the
respective communes. From a marketing
point of view, however, these wines are
difficult because they take so long to age
and don’t always get big scores from the
press.
The modernists, on the other hand, are
associated with shorter, temperaturecontrolled fermentations and less barrel
aging to encourage more fruit and softer
tannins. Other methods are also employed
to bring out the fruit and give the wine more
color intensity, such as using small French
barrels, called barrique, with a high toast
(where the inside of the barrel is charred
to a great degree) to impart a darkness to
the wine. Limiting the fermenting wine’s
exposure to oxygen also produces a Barolo
with brighter, more intense, clean fruit
flavors. At one point, there was even a
movement to reduce the amount of nebbiolo
to 90 percent to allow for the addition of
other international varieties that would
make the wines even richer. This effort
mercifully failed. Modernist Barolo wines
are often more blue in color than garnet.
The increase of glycerin and extracted
fruit make for a rich, bold wine that is
considerably heavier than the wines of the
traditionalists. In addition to rose, hints of
vanilla, spice, and plum appear. The downside is that
it is not always clear where the wines come from
due to excessive oak and extraction. With age, these
elements can integrate to exhibit a decadent side
while remaining true representatives of the commune
from which they came. There is some debate as to
how these wines will age since the tannins are softer
in modern Barolo. Time will tell.
When you are looking for a Barolo, keep in mind that
there are many different styles. From the lean, austere
Burgundian to the rich, decadent modern, there is
happily a Barolo out there for everyone.
Examples of Traditional Producers
Bartolo Mascarello
Giacomo Conterno
Vietti
Bruno Giacosa
Examples of Modern Producers
Paolo Scavino
Sandrone
Moccagatta
Domenico Clerico
Other Great Producers Whose Wines Have
Both Traditional and Modern Traits
Aldo Conterno
Pio Cesare
Ceretto
Prunotto
Gaja
sapori
•
2008
15
behind the bar
The Italian Job
Alto’s Bartender Daniel Horvath
Amari, Italy’s traditional bitter liqueurs, are usually
consumed as a digestivo, but are now finding their way
into cocktails, especially in the United States. Brewed
with an often secret mix of herbs, roots, flowers, and
other botanicals, the concoction is left to macerate in
a neutral spirit before being distilled. Horvath chose
Averna, a Sicilian amaro, for The Italian Job cocktail
because of its bright and refreshing characteristics,
which highlight the addition of blood orange and lemon
peels to its aromatic base of herbs.
1 lime
1.5 oz Averna Amaro
1 oz Plymouth Gin
mint leaf
ice
Cut the lime into four equal pieces. Muddle three wedges in a shaker with
the Averna and the Plymouth. Fill the shaker with ice, and shake. Pour
entire contents of shaker into a rocks glass. Garnish with a mint leaf.
16
2008
•
sapori
The PhilosoPher enTr ePr eneur
Thirty years ago, a successful industrialist
decided to devote himself to his great
passion: wine-making. And so began a
fascinating and complex story of three very
important estates in Tuscany.
•
The purchase and restoration of an
historic monastery (dating from 1000)
at Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the heart
of the Siena Chianti Classico area, the
present day Castello di Monastero.
•
Montalcino, the homeland of one of the
most famous wines in the world, saw
the acquisition and renovation of the
Coldisole estate.
•
Lastly, the foundation of Poggio alle
Sughere in the Tuscan Maremma area.
2008 Distributed by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. Harrison NY 10604 wjdeutsch.com
HauteNotes
From the publisher, Haute Notes is about the discovery of all things innovative
and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.
HAUTEvine
HAUTECASK
Ceretto
Glenmorangie Signet
The Ceretto winery was
founded in the 1920s but
really came to prominence
under the leadership
of Bruno and Marcello
Ceretto in the 1970s.
The Ceretto brothers are
credited with bottling
the first singlevineyard cru Barolo
in 1982, Bricco
Rocche. Ceretto also
produces several
Barbarescos and a
traditional lineup of
Piemontese wines:
dolcetto, barbera,
moscato, and a
popular arneis.
Glenmorangie Signet is probably
the most groundbreaking
innovation in the world of single
malts for decades. At the heart
of its creation is a high-roasted
“chocolate” malt that
provides rich, dark, and
powerful flavors no whisky
has ever been able to
balance so beautifully.
Signet is created from
a secret combination
of some of the rarest
and oldest whiskies
from Glenmorangie’s
archives and reveals
hints of amaretto,
dark chocolate, and
espresso.
Sneak Peek of Marea
Chris Cannon’s latest project with partner Chef
Michael White is called Marea, opening early
2009. The name is an ode to the four bodies of
water that surround Italy and will feature a menu
dedicated to fresh fish and seafood in a chic,
urban space—picture sleek design with gleaming
woods, buttery leathers, and Italian fabrics. Chef
White will continue his tradition of house-made
pastas and will also feature an extensive crudo
menu. Cannon is personally designing the wine
list: a significant assortment of European whites
along with specially matched reds to go with the
sea-oriented menu.
Restaurant Locations
18
Alto
11 E 53rd Street
New York, NY 10022
Convivio
45 Tudor City Pl
New York, NY 10017
t. 212.308.1099
t. 212.599.5045
2008
•
sapori
HAUTETASTE
HAUTENOTEWORTHY
Publisher
Michael Goldman
Editor-in-Chief
Pamela Jouan
Design Director
Jana Potashnik
BAIRDesign, Inc.
Hot Bread Kitchen
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baked according to traditional recipes
from around the world. They handgrind their own cornmeal to make
authentic corn tortillas, bake Europeanstyle breads such as baguettes and
multigrain loaves, and produce organic
wheat-flour lavash in their own style to
create a crispy cracker topped with a
variety of seeds and spices. Their social
objective is to offer new professional
opportunities to immigrant women
while preserving baking traditions—a
very good excuse to eat more bread
from Hot Bread Kitchen.
hotbreadkitchen.org.
Made to taste.com
MadeToTaste.com is an
online shopping destination
that offers a curated
selection of chef-created
and chef-related products.
Imagine shopping in a
chef’s pantry for food
products, kitchen tools
and accessories, and
cookbooks! MadeToTaste.
com also features chef
demonstration videos,
recipes, and wine and
cocktail pairings.
Managing Editor
Christian Kappner
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Stephane Henrion
Copy Editor
kelly suzan waggoner
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Chris cannon
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Charles Harris
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© 2008 All rights reserved.
Reproduction without permission
is strictly prohibited.
What makes an excellent wine? Is it great terroir or the master’s touch? Is it the gentle slope
of the vineyard or the complexity that only time can lend to barrel aging? With a spectrum
of exceptional accomplishment across regions, vineyards and producers, Italy continues to
produce classic icons that serve as benchmarks for exquisite wines throughout the world.
Come share our enthusiasm for the excellence of Italian wine.
THE ITALIAN WINES OF KOBRAND
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Excellence
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