Goat Milk Soap in 20 Easy

Goat Milk Soap in 21Easy -Steps!
What is soap?
Hard and Liquid Fats
+
Salt
+
Water
=
SOAP
Is Real Soap dangerous?
No!
Think of it like Jello. You take Jello crystals, add water
and it creates Jello, a completely different substance.
Real Soap is naturally anti-bacterial, anti-viral, and antifungal.
Soap making is chemistry in action!
Why use Real Soap?
 Goat milk soap: Fresh from the udder to you!
 Happy RFID Chip-free goats (or other RFID-free
dairy animal) do not expose you to RFID Chipinduced cancer. Naturally antibacterial, anti-viral,
and anti-fungal. No synthetics!
 No chemicals, preservatives, or detergents.
 Premium oils, essential oils, scents, exfoliates and
colors.
 Make the soap you like to use.
 Only 4 hours labor for up to 50 hand crafted 5 oz
bars
 No toxic pre-made bases or poisonous melt-andpour.
 Handcrafted by American soap artisans, yourself.
 Eco-Friendly: Does not harm fish or wildlife.
 Cruelty-free: Choose goats or animals that are
humanely raised. Do not let the UN tell you what is
humane.
 Take a little profit or have goods to barter
Note: One of Hitler’s first orders was to ban soap. He
wanted certain groups to look and smell like animals. It
was easier to get the SS to rid the world of these
‘animals’ than a clean human.
Tools of the Trade
Gallon Glass Jar with lid
Scale, Digital or Manual
Bowls-Any kind, various sizes
Spatula
Rubber Gloves
Vinegar to mitigate any burning
Funnel (Large mouth)
Stick Blender
Canner (for double boiler)
Flexible Molds
Two Blankets
Various Essential oils or Fragrance Oils
Herbs
Flowers
Clays
FDA Approved Dyes
Micas
Exfoliates such as oatmeal, cornmeal, pumice, etc…
Step 1: Safety First! Get out your safety gear:
Vinegar in case you get soap on you while making it.
Soap burns until it is saponified (turned into soap) and
also rubber gloves.
Step 2: Get out your ingredients and measure them.
Remember to take the weight of the container into
consideration and also the degree of fat content for
different oils.
Step 3: Pour lye into the glass gallon jar.
Step 4: Make sure you punch two holes in jar lid (This
helps when pouring in case of splashing) A safety
feature!
Step 5: Measure out your water
Step 6: Add water to the lye, whisking as you go. You
want to dissolve the lye crystals, just like with Jello.
Step 7: Measure out your oils. In this recipe: palm and
coconut oil
Step 8: Measure out your olive oil
Step 9: Melt your hard and liquid oils using double
boiler pan method. Make sure that all your hard fats are
melted before proceeding. The picture below is almost
ready, but not quite.
Step 10: Depending upon your recipe cool your fats and
lye to 80 degrees (or what recipe calls for). In any
recipe the fats and lye must be within 10 degrees of
each other, high or low, but within 10 degrees. This
picture is the cooling process in a sink of cold water.
Step 11: Pick out your oils, clays, exfoliates, herbs,
flowers…whatever you are going to put into the soap.
Herbs and flowers can "burn" from the heat of soap
during the curing process.
Step 12: Write down what you make and put into the
soap. Mark on a calendar. You think you will remember
but you don’t.
Step 13: Measure out your goat milk. You can use cow
milk or any other animal milk but you need to take in
account the butterfat content. The fats must offset
your lye to get a useable product. Remember! Soap is
chemistry in action.
Step 14: Pour your milk into the lye solution slowly.
Whisk as you go.
This is what is will look like (lemon yellow). If it is
orange, it is useable, but scorched.
Step 15: With a stick blender mix about 10-15 minutes
until a light trace. Light trace is when the soap
thickens and you lift the stick blender above the soap
and you let it drip, making a circle you see the circle in
the soap. Do not over blend because you do not want
soap to thick to work with putting oils, etc... into it and
getting it into the molds. You can mix by hand but it
takes 5-6 hours and lots of hands.
Step 16: Prepare bowls with your fragrances, clays,
herbs, flowers, exfoliates.
Step 17: Blend well
Step 18: Pour into flexible molds. I tried a lasagna pan
once, but it was to hard to get the soap out. Yes, you
can use wooden trays but you must line them. You can
use oil or PAM to coat the trays to make it easier to get
the soap out.
Step 18: Make sure all your trays are labeled
Step 19: Cover molds with trays of some kind (be
creative)
Step 20: Cover your trays with blankets for 48 hours.
After this I put the trays with the soap in them into the
freezer. This firms up the soap quickly so you can unmold it. Freezing after the first 48 hours does not hurt
the soap as long as it is not more than 24 hours in the
freezer.
Step 21: Unmold your soap
Cure your soap 4-12 weeks depending upon what the
recipe says. If the recipe does not provide the curing
time a good general rule is 6 weeks. The more air
surface you give the bar and the longer you cure it the
longer the bar will last. Some bars can last up to 1
year.
Polish your soap from the ash. This ash is harmless. It
is part of the saponification process.
Shrink wrap if desired, but air drying is best!
Enjoy!