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TRAIL SHOES ARE GOING
LIGHTWEIGHT SEE P24
CLASSIC
COMEBACK
Hush Puppies and
G.H. Bass walk into
the 21st Century
(Page 20)
ITHACA, NY
PERMIT # 191
PAID
PRSRT STD
US POSTAGE
SPRING ’12 SHOESTRAVAGANZA
THE BOOT BOOK
RETAIL: KNOW YOUR APPS!
FOOTWEARINSIGHT.COM • JULY/AUGUST 2011
Editor in Chief
Mark Sullivan
[email protected]
646-319-7878
Editor at Large
Cara Griffin
Art Director
Francis Klaess
July/August 2011
A Special
Report to
THE BOOT
Associate Art Director
Mary McGann
Footwear
Insight &
Sports Insight
• July/Au
WOR
BOOTKS
GEAR UP
Contributors
Michael Jacobsen
Mike Kennedy
Nancy Ruhling
Tim Sitek
Emma Johnson
gust 2011
BOOK
2011 is the
year
the hard-wo of
rkin
good-looking g,
,
24/7 uber boo
t
PAGE
42
Publisher
Jeff Nott
[email protected]
516-305-4711
B
Advertising
Photo: Frank
James
oot brands
are
to the head working extra hard
these days
Georgia
of its class.
Boot’s
to design
words like
When describ
Diamond
footwear
“durable,”
Trax
that goes
“dependable,” ing what wearer
how do these
are placing
s want, they
the boot
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splashes
use
book illustrat words translate into
of striking
and “versat
the standa
insoles and
es, the answer
accent
rd black and
ile.” But
1. Custom
outsoles?
s are being
brown lineup. colors in strategic
As this edition
Comfort
fueled by
3. Is It a Shoe?
spots or adding
Right Out
adjust the
of
a host of
Is It a Boot?
of the Box.
boot to fit
factors.
colors to
from a shoe.
like a glove,
Hi-tech feature
better fit.
A new genera No, It’s Super Boot.
More brands
and wider
s allow the
is deman
Increasingly,
tion of wearer
toes
are making
ding a lighter,
wearer to
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Forward.
ar to do double
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4. The Hi-Tec
rs,
Work boots
to their retro catwalk, but they
, even triple outdoor boots and
h Track.
aren’t exactly
are getting
expects
roots or evokin
duty both
proprietary
Boots now
more stylish.
ready for
on and off
systems.
come fully
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Some are
the job.
Special linings
provide
loaded with
wild West
walking back
comfort;
(see story
a plethora
wick away
slip-free
on Page
custom-like
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– Nancy
A. Ruhlin
g
Jess Tendrick, Advertising Director
[email protected]
201-236-6324
Beth Gordon
[email protected]
949-293-1378
Jeff Gruenhut
[email protected]
404-467-9980
Troy Leonard
[email protected]
352-624-1561
Sam Selvaggio
[email protected]
212-398-5021
Production
Michael Jacobsen
201-396-7005
[email protected]
Business Manager
Marianna Rukhvarger
516-305-4709
[email protected]
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footwearinsight.com
The New Balance 110 trail is a
minimalist trail runner positioned as
a shoe for those who aren’t quite ready
for a fully barefoot-inspired experience.
06 THE FOOTWEAR EYE
Birkis’ ‘Really’ Cool Campaign; Merrell Ups the Bet on
Barefoot; P2i’s British Invasion; More than Mukluks from
the Great White North; Groupon: Not All That; Spira’s
Comeback Player
14 Retail: Tapping Mobile Apps
Every four seconds one child is born and 15 mobile
phones are sold. That means retailers have to upgrade
their mobile marketing strategies today.
16 THE FOOTWEAR EVENT 2011
Seminars discussed consumer behavior and management
tips for a changing workforce, while he expo was hopping!
20 Trends: ShoeLift
Some shoes never go out pf style, as Hush Puppies & G.H.
Bass remake history by walking into the 21st century.
24 Trail: Bright Lights
Light, fast and flexible. Minimalism moves beyond the road
and hits the trail.
31 Let There be Lifestyle
Spring ’12 is full of color, function and life.
40 Less Shoe, More Sales
The minimalist footwear movement has become a
nationwide phenomenon, creating unprecedented buzz
for the running industry.
58 Tongues
Two old friends re-connect over an invention and a dream.
Find out how they are working together again.
On the cover: Hush Puppies’ Keepsake and Bozeman offer a new
take on the classics. Photo by Frank James
TIME OUT | MARK SULLIVAN
Dreaming in Dollars
It’s the middle of the summer and retailers are
up to their eyes in sandal inventory, so what better
time to think about fall and what the fourth-quarter
will bring. I guess Q4 has been in my subconscious
because I had a dream about Ugg the other night.
It was sort of like “Inception,” except my hair is
not as good as Leonardo DiCaprio’s. In my dream
my friend Leslie who is the most anti-fashion, anticapitalistic person I know, bought a pair of Uggs.
When I expressed my amazement (and a little
happiness) that she had purchased the official shoe of Christmas, she retorted “Well
I didn’t buy the same ones as everyone else, I got something different.”
And therein is the rub for Leslie, for retailers, for all of us. It’s about something
different. By the fourth quarter, it will be less than 12 months until the next
presidential election. Cable TV talking heads will be blathering on about Candidate
X and how polls show that Americans are afraid of the future and unsure about the
economy and the consumer will be holding onto their wallets for dear life.
But they will spend for something new and different: Ipads, Droid phones and
shoes they don’t already have in their closets. The running shoe category has been
on fire for the better part of the past eight years. There are lots of reasons for that,
but succinctly put, it’s because the shoes have been good, the perfect fusion of
performance, fashion and value. I don’t need to have any eerie dreams to be sure
of that. The minimal-lightweight trend has legs and although the pundits say the
growth has been fueled by consumer interest in good running form and natural
foot movement, there are a few other factors at play, too. The growth in minimal
footwear has coincided with the introduction of dramatic colors to running shoes.
Athletic footwear companies that spend millions of dollars on product testing and
athlete endorsements don’t like to hear that shoes are selling because they look
good, but that’s the truth here. On an intellectual basis, people will tell you they
married their spouse because they are kind, generous and make a good life partner.
What they won’t tell you is what originally attracted them to this person is that they
looked great naked.
I love looking at consumer research that evaluates all the factors about why
people buy things. Was it the color, the fit, the price, a recommendation from a
friend or the salesperson? It’s all hogwash. Consumers buy things because it makes
them feel good. That applies to stylish, cozy sheepskin boots and sleek looking
running shoes that look great with jeans. And in an uncertain economy, consumers
need to feel really good to spend their money. So for back-to-school and for the
holiday season, consumers will spend. Carefully and selectively, sure, but shoes will
be bought and some dreams will come true.
For those readers who can’t get enough of my wit, wisdom and
insightful analysis, you can catch me almost weekly on my new blog.
http://www.insideinsightblog.com/category/sullivans-insight/
The Footwear Eye
ADVERTISING
Birkis’ ‘Really’ Cool Campaign
Birkis is rolling out a provocative new ad campaign around the theme of “active
recovery.” The print campaign features athletes in action oriented settings wearing
Birkis, which are highlighted with brightly colored arrows and the word “really?” The
answer of course is “not really,” and the ads tout Birkis’ active recovery benefits of
“immediate and lasting benefits underfoot—especially during your daily activities.”
The ads also carry a QR smart phone link that will take users to the brand’s
website where they can learn more.
“We wanted creative that makes you look at it twice,” said Robert Mangione
of Birkis. In addition to touting the notion of “active recovery,” Mangione says
the campaign will also use “contemporary images that will differentiate us from
other brands within the Birkenstock family of brands and other brands that tout
recovery attributes.”
In addition to the new ad campaign, the Birkis line has been updated to include
styles that feature EVA and are “jean-friendly and wearable for daily activities,”
Mangione said. The updates seem to be working. Finish Line has picked up the
brand for its website, Mangione noted. “We see a great opportunity for the brand
beyond the typical comfort stores.”
The ad campaign will kick off in trade pubs and move into consumer by the
end of the year. The campaign will also be featured in this summer’s edition of
O-Ranger, the national parks guide, which has a distribution of more than six
ww w. ac tiv er ec
ov er y.u s
l, eh?
looks pretty coo
not really...but it
Disclaimer: No,
million copies. “It’s not a traditional ad vehicle for the brand,” Mangione told
Footwear Insight, “and we like that it’s a great way to reach consumers who
are out and active on their feet.”
l
Merrell Ups the Bet on Barefoot
S
eth Cobb, Merrell’s GM, says he believes barefoot product can
grow to be 20 percent of all sales in run specialty, more than
double the eight percent share of market the category racked
up in the first quarter of this year. “It’s the fastest growing
category out there and I believe we’re only in the third inning
of a nine-inning game,” Cobb told Footwear Insight.
Merrell is betting strongly on that growth with an expanded barefoot
collection, produced in collaboration with Vibram, the brand credited
Merrell’s assortment includes
women, men, children’s, lifestyle,
street/road and trail product.
6 • Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011
with inventing the category. Merrell’s assortment includes women,
men, children’s, lifestyle, street/road and trail product. “We believe
this range can make the barefoot category accessible to more people,”
Cobb said. “Consumers are finding real benefit in the product and we
believe a broader range and more education about the category will
help grow the business.”
Merrell has created a special part of its website devoted to barefoot,
http://www.merrell.com/US/en/Barefoot; created an I-phone app that
teaches consumers how to run in the product and developed pointof-purchase materials that educate the consumer about the product.
Merrell also has established a relationship with noted trainer Walt
Reynolds, who will be speaking to retailers and consumers about
“bareform running.”
Cobb also said that Merrell has benefited from ‘listening’ to consumer
feedback about barefoot running on numerous blogs, online forums
and social media sites. “We’ve never felt closer to the consumer,”
Cobb said. “As much as we thought we knew about what consumers
wanted in shoes, we’re learning more.” Merrell’s move into these new
categories was prompted by what company executives learned online,
Cobb said. “Once people experience the feeling of barefoot and the
tangible benefits it offers, they want it in other aspects of their lives,
whether it’s casual use or standing up on a paddleboard. We believe
what we’re seeing now is just scratching the surface.” l
footwearinsight.com
The Footwear Eye
TECHNOLOGY
P2i’s British Invasion
Ion-Mask got its first high-profile
introduction in footwear several
years ago with Hi-Tec and Magnum
Coulson discovered a way of using special plasma (actually ionized gas)
in a vacuum chamber to create a protective water-resistant nano-coating.
The discovery was first used by the military to create uniforms that would
protect its soldiers against chemical warfare agents.
The first commercial uses have been in footwear, but testing in the
apparel category is underway and Coulson believes that product will hit the
market in the next 12-18 months. Coulson says one of the major attributes
of the technology is that it’s a “whole shoe process.”
“Traditional shoe components received water repellency treatments prior
to assembly, but Ion-Mask treats entire finished shoes – even their stitching – with a quick, one-shot process.”
Ion-Mask has been used in industrial shoes and service footwear used
by doctors and nurses, but the athletic business is close to Coulson’s
heart. When he spoke to Footwear Insight from his Oxfordshire UK headquarters, he was training for his first triathlon, a half Ironman.
P2i, the British-based technology company and makers of Ion-Mask,
is expanding its American presence. The company, which derives about 25
percent of its revenue from the U.S. market, will soon hire a chief commercial officer for the American market that will oversee its sales team, which
is currently based in New Hampshire.
Ion-Mask got its first high-profile introduction in footwear several years
ago with Hi-Tec and Magnum and has expanded its list of footwear partners to include Nike, Timberland, Adidas, Scott, Mizuno and K-Swiss,
which use the technology in running shoes, hiking boots and golf shoes.
Ion-Mask is a nano-coating protective layer that company executives
describe as having one-one thousandth the thickness of a human hair.
The coating can be applied to a variety of materials, including leather and
synthetics, with no visible evidence and “imparts a vast range of functional
properties including water and oil repellency, stain resistance, insect repellency and flame retardancy,” the company claims.
P2i was spun out of the British Ministry of Defence in 2004 by Stephen
Coulson, who was conducting Ph.D research at UK’s Durham University.
More than Mukluks from the Great White North
Manitobah Mukluks is making its move in the American market. The
brand is diversifying beyond the high furry boots from which the company
takes its name and is expanding its American distribution. The brand is
The
Metis
feature
a custom
designed
outsole
from
Vibram
now being carried by a diverse range of retailers, including The Sundance
Catalog, Urban Outfitters and cold weather doors of Nordstrom. The fiveyear-old company gets high marks for its authenticity. The product is made in
Canada and has a high percentage of Aboriginals working in its factory who
do hand stitching and bead work on the company’s moccasins. Manitobah,
whose owner Sean McCormick is a descendent of Aboriginals, also donates
thousands of dollars a year to job training for the local community.
footwearinsight.com
The Footwear Eye
INTERNET
Groupon: Not All That
In recent months, a blog post by a Portland,
OR, café owner Jessie Burke went viral when
she detailed her experience with a Groupon
campaign, which she called “the single worst
decision I have ever made as a business owner
thus far.” Posies Bakery & Café’s Groupon
experience, which put the business $8000 in
debt, has been the rallying cry of many retailers
and service providers who decry the popular
email-based marketing vehicle and its knockoffs. The account was detailed
in many outlets, including The
Washington Post.
While Groupon and its competitors like Living Social and
Yipit has been considered by
marketing experts and Wall
Street as the sweetest business
model in recent years, many
retailers report otherwise.
One is Big River Running,
which has three locations in
the St. Louis area and ran a
Groupon promotion late summer of 2010. The deal went like
this: Customers paid $25 for a
$50 credit at Big River. They sold 3500, and
Groupon and the retailer split the $25, 50-50.
Additionally, Groupon charged Big River a two
percent credit card processing fee on each
transaction. While the coupons were on sale for
one day, the retailer didn’t receive its full share
of the proceeds for another 90 days.
Owner Matt Helbig said the financials left
“a bitter taste in my mouth.” “They just made
$45,000 in one day and they’re going to charge
me another $2000 in credit card processing?”
he said, adding that he found the policy of
delayed payments frustrating. “They’re sitting
on millions if not billions of dollars, making
money on it for months,” he says.
Further, Helbig joined other retailers who
complain about customers
who abuse the Groupon rules,
which state only one groupon per customer, and no
gifts. And while Big River successfully heeded Groupon’s
detailed suggestions to beef
up staff in preparation for an
initial onslaught of customers following the promotion,
retailers frequently bemoan
the initial rush leaves them
shorting both new and longtime customers when it came
to attention and service.
For customers who used
groupons, Big River’s average ticket price
increased from the normal $71 to $92 (before
the groupon was deducted). About 400 of the
groupons were never redeemed. All told, the
store netted $28,000 on a little over $140,000
in sales. It is not clear how many of those sales
The web
based
discount
craze
is not
always a
bonanza
for the
retailers
were from new customers, but Helbig says, “It
was quite a few.”
Nonetheless, “We will most likely not do
another groupon,” Helbig says. “We were in
on it early and now feel like the fad has run its
course. Businesses that run in Groupon now
don’t seem to have the same reputation that
ran in it eight and 10 months ago, and we
don’t want our brand or our industry to earn a
reputation as a place for big sales or discounts.
We’d prefer to be known for our great customer
service.”
Kris Hartner, owner of Naperville Running
Company in suburban Chicago, spoke
to several athletic footwear retailers before
deciding against signing on with Groupon. For
one, the numbers didn’t work. Second, he
worried his service-focused business would be
tarnished. “One of my biggest issues is that it
creates a coupon mentality,” he says. “If you
need to liquidate seasonal apparel or you’re
severely overstocked, it might make sense.
But if you sell 4000 groupons and you’re
inundated for several days, your employees
are overworked, new customers are not having
great experience because you’re overrun, and
the math doesn’t work out.”
Groupon spokesperson Chad Nason says
that many points in the Groupon contract are
negotiable, and that the young company which
sold its first discount in November, 2008 is still
evolving to best work with its customers. Nason
adds that his company is willing to work with
retailers to create a Groupon campaign which
will both heighten awareness and be profitable.
Changes could include increasing the percentage
of the groupon the merchant receives, limiting the
number sold, and changing the period for which
the discount is valid, he said.
“A lot of merchants think they’re supposed
to make a ton of money on Groupon,” Nason
says. “If we’re doing our job right, we absolutely
make sure it is profitable, and a lot of our
merchants make this happen. But this is a
marketing expense. This is the most powerful
local marketing tool available because you’re
seeing the exact person who came into your
store because of your marketing dollars.”
Nason adds that 95 percent of Groupon’s
merchants say they would run another
promotion with the company, and the business
is growing throughout the U.S. and globally.
Kris Hartner, however, is skeptical about
the business model in the face of Groupon’s
impending IPO. “I think Grouopn should have
taken the $6 billion when Google offered to buy
it,” he says. “I don’t see a lot of people coming
back.” — Emma Johnson
footwearinsight.com
The Footwear Eye
PEOPLE
Spira’s Comeback Player
When Jim Tompkins retired from New Balance
two years ago, he thought he was done with
the footwear business. Then a friend from the
shoe business introduced him to Andy Krasfur,
the founder and CEO of Spira.
Spira was a nine-year old company that has
made some ripples in the athletic footwear
business with what it called “wavespring
technology.” The technology was comprised
of lightweight springs that the company
installed in the heel and forefoot of its shoes
that Krasfur said increased energy return,
reduced impact and decreased the risk of
energy. The technology was developed by
Krasfur’s brother, David, and the two initially
launched the company together. But they
had a disagreement which turned into a legal
battle and Andy had to leave the business for
all of 2006 before returning in 2007 after he
borrowed $2 million to buy out his brother and
Francis LeVert, another investor.
The company struggled through all that tumult,
but Tompkins, who first came on as a consultant
and eventually as president and an investor,
believes in the technology and the company’s
future prospects. “That’s why I am here,”
Tompkins told Footwear Insight. “When I came
on board, Spira had some major fit and cosmetic
Jim Tompkins
issues, but we’ve worked through those.”
Tompkins has also focused the company’s
efforts on key categories and channels of
distribution. When he started consulting, Spira
was in a range of categories including work,
basketball, running and walking. Tompkins
has whittled that down to walking and running
and now has the brand targeting independent
retailers, running specialty stores and specialty
catalogers and e-tailers. Key accounts include
Zappos, Hammacher Schlemmer, the Active
Sports website and key Foot Solutions franchises.
The next step in building distribution is to
crack independent shoe stores, like those
Tompkins worked with when he was at New
Balance who opened single branded New
Balance stores. “Those are the retailers who
understand product and can help a brand like
ours tell its story.”
Tompkins admits Spira is under-distributed
and would like to at least double its number of
accounts in the next 18 months. The company
has annual revenue of less than $10 million and
Tompkins says Spira’s goal is to get into the
$40 to $50 million annual revenue range within
three to four years.
The company has just shipped four new
running shoes, including The Stinger and The
Genesis X, and has additional models in the
pipeline that will ship early next year.
“The footwear business has been stale,”
Tompkins said. “As an industry, we’re
clutching at buzzwords like wellness and trying
to make it work.” During tough economic
times, retailers tend to reduce inventory and
stand pat, Tompkins said, but “that’s the last
thing the industry needs now. Retailers need
to try new ideas. That’s where they have
experienced success.”
Tompkins, who made his reputation in the
business as a design and development guy,
believes Spira offers a different and viable
technology, and has an opportunity to inject
some fresh energy into the business. “Spira
has a small, loyal cult following,” he said. “We
just need to expand the cult.” l
Spring Ahead: New
models for next season
are aimed at helping
Spira expand beyond
its small, loyal cult
following into more
mainstream retail.
The technology is comprised of
lightweight springs that are installed
in the heel and forefoot of its shoes
that increases energy return.
footwearinsight.com
RETAIL
Many numbers are flying around about the growth
of mobile, but this stat, attributed to The Economist,
visually stands out in highlighting the importance of
building a mobile marketing strategy for your store.
Tapping Mobile Apps
Every four seconds one child is born and 15 mobile phones are sold. By Naomi Mannino
A
ccording to Nielsen, there are more than 82 million
mobile phone web users in the U.S. and the June
2011 BIGresearch Consumer Intentions & Actions
Survey found that 86.3 percent of shoppers surveyed
research products online before heading to the store.
In addition, Americans spend 2.7 hours per day using
mobile devices for socializing, according to a new study of mobile
internet use by Ruder Finn. Because of these trends, stores know
they need to be accessible on mobile devices. “My customer’s use
of these is still in its infancy but growing. I’ve already improved my
website for mobile, fleshed out my Google Maps, Google Places and
Yelp listing, developed a Facebook Page customers use and have even
hired a social media person to take advantage of new ways to reach
shoppers immediately on their mobile phones. It’s instant impulsive
shopping I can and should control,” says Danny Wasserman, owner of
Tip Top Shoes in New York City. In a search on the Google Maps app
for “Vibram Five Finger Shoes, New York City” Tip Top Shoes popped
up first on the list out of all the sporting goods and athletic shoe giants
in New York City, so Wasserman is doing something right.
You might be thinking you need to create an app of your own to
compete. “You’re too small to stand out with your own mobile app, so
don’t sink money into creating one,” says Vincent Schiavone, partner
at Listen Logic, a company that advises large brands on social
App Name
marketing. “Instead, cash in on larger, proven apps people are
already using on their mobile phones every day. Many are even free
for retailer participation,” advises Schiavone. In the U.S., Nielsen
research found that Facebook and Google Maps are the two top-used
apps. Schiavone also advises that before embarking on any further
paid mobile campaigns that retailers
tap free participation Google apps
“Businesses
first: Claim your free place for each
should be
of your locations on Google Maps and
periodically
Google Places. Other popular apps used
searching
on smartphones already for socializing
and checking
and shopping are Foursquare, Yelp and
themselves out.” two new ones Scvngr and Shopkick, all
of which incorporate the local, social
Sheri Koetting, MSLK
and mobile aspects of shopping trends
today. Sheri Koetting, co-founder and
chief strategist of the Queens, NY-based design firm MSLK, agrees,
“The cost of developing your own app can start at $30,000 and small
local merchants will not find a good return. I advise investing in a
smartphone enabled website, with deep links to specific pages like
products and location, making it easy to be found online.”
Want to get your marketing more mobile, social and local using
apps? Check the chart! l
Cost
Benefits
Google
Free & Paid
Get Found Locally: The Google Suite of mobile business services is number
one in importance if you want people to instantly find popular shoe products and
specialties at your store instead of a competitor’s store.
Google Places and Google Maps are free, so claim your place for each store
location. Add your website address, specialties, hot brands and lots of photos. Google Adwords is paid online and mobile advertising with many options
as budget permits. Google’s huge distribution and new integration of Google
Offers with Google Wallet provide an easier-than-ever toolbox for consumers
to buy and redeem offers.
Foursquare
Free
Make It Social, Local & Mobile: Foursquare accomplishes all three aspects in
one shopping app that’s free for retailers to participate in. As demonstrated by
Jimmy Choo’s “CatchaChoo” Foursquare campaign, the potential to drive real
people to a real store is now also very real.
Claim your free place for each store location in Foursquare. Create Specials
and Badges, which are rewards and deals for loyal customers who “check
in” as well as to draw shoppers who are near your location who can also
see your deals. Check your Venue Stats to track foot traffic, deal popularity
and more.
Facebook
Free & Paid
Cummunicate With Customers: Facebook is in a unique position to put its
157.2 million visitors to work as a powerful marketing tool and number one for
customer engagement on a mobile phone for free. Once created, never ignore
your Facebook Page, keep updating and adding new products, comments and
photos. Promptly answer customer questions and complaints and be sure your
service is top notch so people are sharing positively and not negatively.
Create a simple free Facebook Page with lots of photos of hot brands you
sell and update it regularly with sales, events and new footwear trends. Next,
claim your free page to Facebook Places (or add it) so shoppers can check
in through the Facebook app on their mobile phone. Create Facebook Deals
that automatically get shared with friends when purchased. Buy Facebook
Ads to target local customers that include a “Like” link (Facebook Events
include an “RSVP” link.) And, you can choose to pay only when people click
(CPC) or when they see your ad (CPM).
Yelp
Free
Get Found And Reviewed: Another free app for retailers to use that more and
more consumers are tapping before they visit a store to check out reviews.
Check your Yelp listing and be sure you have a complete listing for each location. If not, create one. Ask happy customers to write up a review. Monitor for
negative reviews and answer to them whenever possible via the “add owner
comment” button.
Shopkick
Under $100
Rewarding In-Store: Loyalty punch cards and wasted marketing dollars on
customers who don’t visit the store are a thing of the past. This app rewards
customers when in the store detected by a signal box for each store location
that costs under $100 dollars.
Big retailers like Sports Authority and Target as well as Simon Property Group
Malls are using this app to encourage repeat customers and reward shoppers
with “Kicks” (special deals and rewards) just for walking into their stores and
now smaller merchants can do the same. Small commissions apply for each
deal purchased.
Features
footwearinsight.com
THE FOOTWEAR EVENT
Key Topics for Attendees:
Consumer Behavior and Management Tips for
From left: Bart Yasso of Runner’s World shared insights on key “archetypes” among running consumers, while Kelly McDonald provided tips on how to manage multiple generations of employees in the
same workplace (see related stories below). Jim Dion discussed pricing strategy for retailers; Walt Reynolds gave a lively demonstration on Bareform Running; Jim Falcone of Academy looks on during the
Running MBA Program, while Molly O’Keefe of Runner’s World lays out the big picture on the growth in the running business.
Yasso of Runner’s World Paints Picture of Today’s Running Consumers
Tells attendees that three distinct consumer types have different buying behaviors
There is a great deal of discussion about
“the Running consumer,” but today’s running
market is actually made up of a number of
different consumer types with very different
needs, behaviors and shopping patterns.
That was the message delivered by Bart
Yasso of Runner’s World at The Footwear
Event last month in Chicago. Yasso’s remarks
came during a special Running MBA program,
which sought to educate retailers in all
different channels about the growth in running.
Yasso’s presentation focused on three
different consumer types: “the newbie,” the
“working mom” and the “health and fitness
runner.”
The “newbie,” who Yasso identified by the
name of Ned, is “generally motivated to take
up running by a single event, whether it’s a
doctor’s recommendation, a relationship breakup, a big birthday, or just a look in the mirror.”
Yasso said this newcomer to the sport
is “likely to turn to a friend or peer for
recommendations on shoes, where to shop and
how to get started with training or routines.”
“The newbie is least loyal in terms of
brands or where they shop,” Yasso told
the retailers in attendance. “As a result, the
newbie may be timid and or intimidated
when entering your store for the first time.
They could be intimidated by a techy
environment or a run specialty environment
where everyone is skinny and a ‘real runner’.
This is the shopper who truly is the deer in
the headlights.”
Yasso’s advice to retailers on serving the
newbie:
• Your first goal is to get the newbie into shoes
and maybe a pair of shorts.
• After that you can sell him or her anything
and everything.
• Likely to buy gimmicky product and
experiment.
• No problem spending, especially at the
beginning.
• Great target for education and clinics.
Product knowledge will create that “aha”
moment which will spark greater zeal for
running and spending on their new activity.
Yasso spent a good deal of his presentation
focused on the working mom runner, who he
identified by the name Maureen. “Running is an
important part of her life and ‘getting the run
in’ is critical,”
Yasso said. “She often runs before work
when the sun is just coming up, so this woman
is a prime consumer for reflective product.”
Maureen and other working moms are
also pressed for time, so her shopping time
is limited and structured, Yasso said. “She
is likely to shop for herself when she’s also
shopping for her kids or husband so she’s as
likely to shop in a full-line sports store as she is
at run specialty.” Yasso said working moms are
also prime apparel consumers and is likely to
respond to stores that are easy to shop and do
a good job merchandising apparel.
Other key points about Maureen, according
footwearinsight.com
a Changing Workforce
In addition to the well-attended educational sessions at The Footwear Event, the expo floor was teeming with activity throughout the attendees’ time in Chicago. Some of the on-going action from the show
floor (from left to right): Talking minimalism at the New Balance booth; showing the line at Clarks; doing some strong shoe business at Dansko; Happy talk at the Alegria booth; comfort meets design at
Birkenstock; and looking at cute boots for kids. The Footwear Event expo, which was held at Navy Pier, featured 55 brands in total.
to Yasso:
• “Running provides a strong social connection
with other women. They like to be goal
oriented and training for a race most likely a
half marathon is a likely goal.”
• 59 percent of half marathoners are women.
Half marathon is the fastest growing distance
race in the country and halfs are good for
working moms because they can “fit in” the
training for that race.
• “Mom” is an important part of working mom.
Likely to participate in mother-daughter or
mother-son races. Merchandising around
pregnancy-maternity is an opportunity as well.
The Health & Fitness Runner, who Yasso
referred to as Dick and Jane, is the most likely
to shop run specialty. This runner, Yasso said,
engages in other activities and sports, but
running is their primary activity.
The health and fitness consumer runs four
days a week, 20 miles a week, 11 months out of
the year. “They run to “stay in shape, relieve
stress, have fun” and “do something for myself,”
Yasso said referring to RW research.
Other significant information about this
footwearinsight.com
runner, according to Yasso:
• 54 percent are in training programs.
• Three top “most likely to purchase” venues
are run specialty, online and full-line
sporting goods.
• Three top influences: salesperson, other
runners and “article I read.”
• Has three pair of shoes in current running
rotation.
• Top brands are: ASICS, Nike and New Balance.
• Very influential to other runners. This is the
runner Ned talks to when getting started.
Generational Differences in the Workplace
Managing different age groups was a big topic
How can four different generations work
productively side-by-side in today’s workplace?
That was the theme of “Come Together,”
Kelly McDonald’s presentation at The Footwear
Event. “This is the first time ever we’ve had four
generations in the workforce at the same time,”
McDonald said. “People are living longer, so they
are exiting the workforce at a later age.”
McDonald identified the four generations as:
Matures; Boomers; Generation X; Generation Y.
And she emphasized that the differences
are not so much about age as they are about
the generations that shaped them. “When you
ask someone how Kennedy died, Matures and
Boomers will say ‘gunshot in Dallas.’ Gen Xers
will say ‘plane crash over Martha’s Vineyard,’ and
Gen Yers will say ‘Kennedy Who?’”
Workers’ attitudes are shaped by two key
factors, McDonald said. “Parenting style and
information flow – the means by which people
get information – go a long way toward impacting
how people behave at work.”
“The parents of Matures believed children
should be seen and not heard, so that age
group tends to have great respect for authority.
Boomers were indulged and empowered by
their parents, so they carry that attitude into
the workplace. More than half of the Gen Xers
July/August 2011 ~ Footwear Insight • 17
THE FOOTWEAR EVENT
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‘Digital Divide’ is the new Generation Gap.”
“Matures grew up getting all their information
from newspapers and the evening news,”
McDonald explained. “And if they wanted to
know more than that, they went to the library.
This is a generation that was trained to listen and
they bring that attitude to work.”
Meanwhile, McDonald said boomers grew
up watching TV and “watching themselves.”
That made them believe in the “power of
people working together.” As a result of this
experience, she said this generation prefers
face-to-face communication, not computer chats
or conference calls. Gen X-ers grew up with
computers and cell phones and the ability to
tape TV shows and watch them whenever they
wanted. “This generation got their information in
a less controlled, but more private way. They are
accustomed to being reached at all times. ”
For Gen Y, McDonald pointed out that this
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1. Zachary Croft and Sonya Jones, Sikes Children’s Shoes. 2. Jimmy Hall, Dunham’s. 3. Kitty Bollinger and Diana Rowland, Dansko. 4. Sue and
Larry Orischak, Foot Solutions Scottsdale 5. Jim Sheridan and Francee Schloesser Cool Comfort Shoes. 6. David and Loretta Mills, Comfortable
Soles. 7. Rhonda Sawyer and Leah Hall of The Shoe Crate sandwich Curt Smith of Schnees. 8. Amy Beck, SmartWool and Mercedes Marchand,
Sockwell. 9. Bill Golden, Golden Shoes and Meg Scheidler from Ahnu. 10. Curt Munson, Playmakers. 11. Amye Hendesron and Marty Anderson of
Doctor Specified with Stuart Pressman of Sole-utions. 12. Rick Ravel, Karavel and Kitty Bollinger, Dankso. 13. Gary and Ellis Webber Shoe Gallery.
14. The Goldens of Golden Shoes. 15. Stanford Jennings, New Balance16. Benny Hopkins of Sound Feet. 17. Scott Cates and Donnette Ortel of
Alegria. 18. Jeanette Riechers and Brenda Baril and Janice Abernathy and Jennifer Smith of Abbadabba. 19. Fit Flop wines on the boat cruise. 20.
All aborad for the architectural cruise. 21. Ayelet Lax and Ari Levy, Naot. 22. Andy Krasfur, Spira, Molly O’Keefe and Bart Yasso, Runner’s World.
23. Brian Jones and Curt Munson, Playmakers. 24. Rob Williams, Wesley Shoe Coral. 25. Sam Hassan, The Tannery, Joseph Joseph, VIM, Tarek
Hassak, The Tannery. 26. Barbara and Jack Jensen, Jensen’s. 27. Kevin and Deb Durkin, The Boot Shack 28. Jess Tendrick, Footwear Insight,
Beth Gordon The Footwear Event. 29. Phil and Carol Wright, Vernon Powell Shoes and Conrad Strohacker of Conn’s Shoes; 30. Mollie and Kirk
Brown from Buck’s Shoes with Mike Featherston of ICB. 31. Ted Gilverson of Drew Shoes. 32. Peter Zappala and Chris Cohen of New Balance.
come from divorced households, and they were
the first generation of latchkey kids because
both parents worked. As a result, they are
very self reliant, but slow to trust others.” For
Gen Y, McDonald said, many were raised by
“Helicopter Parents,” who constantly hovered
over their children “trying to be both their
friends and agents.” “These kids have been
raised to feel special all the time. They have little
experience with frustration, failure and pain.”
McDonald said “agent parents” of this generation
often intercede on their children’s behalf. “I’ve
heard stories about parents calling the bosses of
their kids to negotiate salaries or complain when
their kids were fired or disciplined.”
How employees process information and use
technology is another key difference among the
generations that impacts workplace behavior.
“Back the 1960s, people used to talk about “The
Generation Gap,” McDonald said. “Today, the
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group grew up with computers in their bedrooms
and the Internet at their disposal. “The digital
world provides them with the anonymity
and freedom to express their opinions about
everything. They are extremely comfortable with
technology and have been trained from an early
age to solve problems and multi-task.”
McDonald said that all age groups have
strengths and weaknesses in the workplace and
understanding their differences is key to making
it all work. “A Boomer manager may question
why a Gen Y employee wants to leave work early
and go to a yoga class. That same employee is
probably frustrated because his or her boss can’t
open an attachment off an e-mail. They both have
points, but if they can better understand where
the other is coming from, they’ll have a better
chance of working more productively together.
It’s not that an y of these behaviors are right or
wrong, they’re just different. l
footwearinsight.com
We’re building a better footwear marketplace.
The Footwear Event . Designed with a fresh
®
blueprint featuring content with conversation.
And commerce. We’re focused on the footwear
channel and what makes the most sense for all
those in it. Whether your a retailer, vendor or rep.
And it’s working. 2011 Number of brands: 27%
increase. 2011 Retail Attendance: 32% increase.
Our blueprint? Easy access. Keynote speakers.
Business sessions. Complimentary meals. Social
gatherings. Expo hours. Better booth designs.
W Hotel. Did we mention easy access?
Save the dates.
Experience the industry’s best event of the summer.
The Footwear Event
June 25-27, 2012
Navy Pier, Chicago
For more information, contact:
Beth Gordon 949-293-1378 / [email protected]
Mark Sullivan 973-304-1440 / [email protected]
® a registered trademark of The Footwear Event
The Footwear Event 2012 will feature an expanded Running MBA program. Exhibitor space is limited.
thefootwearevent.com
TRENDS
Hush Puppies & G.H. Bass
remake history by walking
into the 21st century
By Nancy A. Ruhling
Hush Puppies: When Hush Puppies casually walked onto the scene in
1958, its relaxed nonchalance, epitomized by brushed suede uppers
and lightweight crepe soles, stuck out in the crowd of formal footwear.
Its long history of success – by mid-1959, a million pair were sold,
and today it’s still one of the top five largest global brands of casual
footwear – is a hard act to follow.
Some shoes never
go out of style. But
it’s not because they
never change. It’s
because they know
how to change to
meet the stride of
each new generation.
G.H. Bass’ Vanessa
Part of the limited-edition collection,
this classic Weejuns penny loafer
with beef roll is for women.
G.H. Bass’ Linwood
The classic Weejuns flat strap
penny loafer, part of the limited
edition, is for men.
Hush Puppies’ Bozeman
This men’s wingtip pairs a khaki-washed
suede and grey/blue distressed canvas to
create a modern take on a classic.
footwearinsight.com
Photo: Frank James
ShoeLift
Remaking an iconic footwear brand is as tricky as walking
a balance beam, because to be successful, original style and newfound
features must be on equal footing.
Hush Puppies and G.H. Bass, two of the more successful casual
brands America has ever produced, recently looked to their history
to give a contemporary lift to the popular nostalgic styles that have
made them prime players in the industry for decades and to propel
themselves into upscale markets. Here’s how they did it.
Which is why the brand treaded very carefully when it created a
special collection to celebrate the half-century of the classic Hush
Puppy, still one of its top-10 sellers.
“Iconic brands have to evolve and be meaningful to the
consumer,” says Dani Zizak, VP-global marketing for the brand,
which sells more than 18 million pair per year around the
world. “We really focused on fashion and consumer trends to
pull together an iconic and classic collection that is designed to
enhance our original product.”
The Hush Puppies 1958 collection, which debuted for Fall 2010
with a lace-up Oxford and a slip-on, views the brand’s classic
styles “through a current-day lens,” Zizak says. “This is not a brand
repositioning, but we are evolving and willing to embrace the best
parts of the brand. The collection, which retails for $89.90 to $150, is
part of a strategy to move upmarket into the right specialty stores.
Hush Puppies’ Profile Slip On
Made of tumbled, soft, environmentally
tanned navy nubuck, this men’s shoe
is a front runner for comfort.
footwearinsight.com
It’s a more premium product.”
The collection features high-end materials, modern colors and
advanced comfort features. “As we move forward, the 1958 collection
is becoming bigger,” says Cory Haberman, VP-global product
development. “From a design standpoint, it’s leading the ethos of
our brand, it’s the skeleton of our architecture. We’re using the DNA
of 1958 to expand our product and our architecture by applying its
details to the broader collection.”
The Spring/Summer 2012 women’s styles include metallic nubuck
leather and brightly colored fabrics; wrapped leather and signature
trapunto stitching and loafers that show their American spirit with
red, white and blue checkered fabrics. The men’s styles feature
surprising colors and materials, including washed and brushed
suede and distressed and waxed leather.
“We’re choosing leathers with a unique textural quality that, like
G.H. Bass’ Goshen
For men, this limited-edition classic
Weejuns penny loafer has a beef roll.
Hush Puppies’ Keepsake
A new take on the classic Wayne, this
women’s shoe has an upper of premium
blue nubuck leather and a plaid fabric.
TRENDS
suede, are soft, supple and hold color well,” Haberman says. “Some
almost have a nap to them like suede. Suede, which is what the original
Hush Puppies were made of, is important, but it will be a smaller part
of what we do.”
Hand-worked, hand-applied treatments and embellishments emphasize the concept of an artisan finish, Haberman says, and are paired
with a “relaxed style and a softer, more minimalistic construction that
allows materials to be draped and ruched. Sometimes we don’t include
linings.”
Hush Puppies’ Reminisce
The 1958 collection, which Zizak reports is selling well around the
world, is part of broader plan to raise the brand’s profile in America.
“We’re well known in the United States,” she says, “but we want Hush
Puppies to occupy the same plane here as it does on the global level,
where it’s traded as a premium, quality brand. In the United States,
Hush Puppies isn’t as well known for what it represents today.”
Zizak says Hush Puppies will continue to collaborate with high-profile fashion designers like Anna Sui, who designed an Autumn/Winter
2011 collection that features a tall boot, a chukka, a lace-up, a wingtip,
a tap shoe and a ghillie in richly colored “worry-free” suede.
The brand also plans to create concept stores in the United States
that will join the ranks of the more than 600 it has around the world.
“The concept stores highlight the brand in its entirety,” Zizak says,
adding that two were recently opened in Montreal and two will be
added in the United Kingdom in the next 18 months to two years. “They
educate and inform the consumer that there’s more than what they
thought. Our story resonates with the consumer, it’s not just another
collection of shoes.”
As for the 1958 collection, Zizak reports that it’s been selling woofing
well around the globe.
“We’ll continue to focus on Hush Puppies 1958,” Zizak says. “It’s the
heart and soul of the brand.”
Hush Puppies’ Laze Toe Post FL
G.H. Bass & Co.: Three-quarters of a century ago, George Henry Bass,
founder of G.H. Bass & Co., got the bright idea to create the penny
loafer.
In 1936, when this event occurred, there was nothing else like it on
the market, and nobody knew that the humble hand-sewn Bass Weejun
moccasin, based on the shoe worn by Norwegians, would become one
of the brand’s – and the country’s – signature styles.
Today, the Bass Weejun, which gets its name from the mash-up of
“Norwegian-Injun,” refers to three styles -- the penny loafer, the drop
tassel and the kilty tassel – that remain among the brand’s top three
sellers.
Although they are the brand’s most iconic styles, they were not the
first. George Henry Bass, a tannery owner, started out by making boots
for Maine farmers in 1876. He didn’t introduce his first moccasin, modeled after the ones worn by Native American Indians, until 1906.
To celebrate the Weejuns’ 2011 milestone, Harbor Wholesale Ltd., a
licensee of Bass brand owner Phillips-Van Huesen Corp., has created a
limited-edition collection of seven styles — four for women and three
for men. Featuring premium leathers, fashionable colors and quality
finishes, they retail for $109 to $119 and are available from August
through the first quarter of 2012.
“Our goal was to update the upper leather materials and bring forward the styling to make them more stylish while keeping the same
shape and last,” says Jim McCormick, president of Bass Wholesale.
“We wanted to make the leathers more relevant, foot-friendly and more
flexible. Traditionally, people like to wear them without socks, and we
didn’t want there to be a break-in period of a couple of weeks as there
is with the original style.”
The limited-edition collection features distressed and shiny brushoff leathers and new colors, including navy and a burgundy that’s close
to the signature hue. Like the originals, they are hand sewn and feature
the hammock-for-the-foot construction. Some even retain the “penny
keeper” strap that was used in the 1940s and 1950s as a pocket for
dimes, then the cost of a pay phone call.
G.H. Bass’ Women’s Ventura
Bass also gave its other iconic styles – the buck shoe and saddle
buck – new looks. The traditional tan or taupe suede with brick outsole
has given way to an array of outsole colors that McCormick calls “fun.”
“The response has been good even prior to the 75th anniversary,”
he adds. “There are very few iconic American brands like Bass, and
the consumer recognizes that we’re in a classic fashion trend so we
fit right in.”
To spread the word about the limited-edition collection, the brand,
which is sold in major department stores and independents, including
Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, Barneys New York, Urban Outfitters and
Free People, reintroduced itself to vendors.
“We wanted to create a halo effect,” McCormick says. “We wanted
everyone to know that we are back and we are relevant.”
It also launched a major public relations initiative, focusing on getting coverage in major fashion magazines and onto the feet of celebrity
movers and shakers. “We do not have paid endorsers,” McCormick
says. “We got to them in various ways. Sometimes it was through their
stylists; sometimes they just started wearing them on their own.”
So it is that the footwear of Spirit of St. Louis aviator Charles
Lindberg and pop superstar Michael Jackson has now found favor with
MTV UK host Alexa Chung, Naya Rivera of “Glee,” Kelly Osborne, Ellen
DeGeneres, Orlando Bloom, Michael Cera and Will Arnett.
Bass also is looking to expand globally. Sold throughout Europe,
Central and South America, Japan and South Africa, the brand is working on distribution in China.
Collaborations also have been added. In Europe, Tommy Hilfiger
stores are marketing a classic design that Bass sourced, and in the
United States, Rachel Antonoff created a $100 to $150 women’s collection, and Mark McNairy developed a $100 to $150 line for men.
“These moves have given the brand more validity and have allowed
it to go upscale with distribution and to build a better, more efficient
product,” McCormick says. l
footwearinsight.com
TRAIL
Bright
Lights
Over the past year, we’ve seen minimalist
footwear break through with running
consumers in a big way. And in the next 12
months, we’re likely to start seeing just how
far-reaching the minimalist movement’s
impact can be — beyond road running
to footwear categories such as trail,
multisport, hiking and more. Terms such
as light, fast and flexible are not new to
the trail category, but brands in this space
are now also increasingly talking about
some very “minimalist” types of design
features such as “natural movement” and
“minimizing heel drop.”
“Minimalist is taking off in outdoor,
absolutely,” says Chris Dunn, assistant
footwear buyer at Backcountry.com. He
notes that shoes selling extremely well at
backcountry.com presently include the
New Balance/110 Trail: A minimalist trail runner ideal
for race day or a long training run, the 110 features a thin
ROCKSTOP plate in the outsole that protects feet from
punctures and disperses shock without sacrificing the
natural running feel. The 110 is positioned as a shoe for
those runners looking for a minimalist shoe but who aren’t
quite ready for a fully barefoot-inspired running experience. SRP $79.95
Vasque/Rift: A trail ready multisport shoe, the Rift weighs
in at less than 2 pounds, without sacrificing stability or
resilience and functions as a lightweight approach shoe.
A lace-to-toe lacing system ensures an ideal fit while the
low-profile, triple density mid-sole supplies stability and
comfort. SRP $120
Brooks/Pure Grit: Part of Brook’s new lightweight
Pure Project line, the Pure Grit is a lightweight trail shoe
with a hug-your-foot upper and pliable yet protective
outsole. The one-piece outsole is concave and splays
out with pressure. The upper foam conforms to the
foot. SRP $100
footwearinsight.com
Merrell barefoot styles. “And we anticipate
the New Balance Minimus, which are
shipping soon, to do really well in the trail
running category.”
As minimalism moves beyond road
running and lifestyle into trail, light hiking
and multisport, the particular use of the
product is still very much defined by
the consumer. “It’s a style play for some
people,” says Dunn. “I’d say only about 30
percent of the customers buying barefoot
styles are actually running in them and the
rest are wearing them mostly casually.”
Merrell launched its barefoot styles
to much publicity this past spring and
sales have exceeded the company’s high
expectations, according to Craig Throne,
VP-global marketing at Merrell. Merrell
is expanding its barefoot-inspired shoe
offerings in Spring 2012 with new Barefoot
Run road running shoes, Barefoot Train,
for athletic training, Barefoot Water for
water enthusiasts and Barefoot Life, for “a
connected fit and feel in all steps of life.”
“We launched from our strength, more
of the outdoor angle with trail run and
crossing over to road, which was more
running product than we’ve been known for
before,” says Throne. “Running started the
whole minimalist movement. What attracted
us to the whole concept was getting back
to nature. But now people are all looking
for product solutions beyond just running.
Once you go minimal in running you don’t
want to go back to a built up shoe, so people
want footwear for beyond the run. We see
people extending it into their everyday life
— into other categories of footwear.”
Light, fast & flexible.
Minimalism moves
beyond the road
and hits the trail.
By Cara Griffin
Traditional outdoor brands such as
Columbia are embracing the minimalist
trend, too. Columbia’s Spring 2012 trail
footwear line focuses on light weight,
dryness and versatile trail performance.
“Our goal is to be as meaningful and
innovative in the outdoor footwear space as
we are in the winter footwear space and the
outdoor footwear space is all about the trail
segment,” explains Mark Nenow, VP-global
footwear merchandising at Columbia.
“Minimalism is trending and that is about
lightweight, flexible, and less is more…
the paradigm is shifting away from heavy,
overbuilt and inflexible footwear.”
The customer is still leading the way in
the minimalist movement, Merrell’s Throne
believes, and brands are responding. “As we
all keep making better product that meets
needs beyond running more people will be
likely to try the minimalist category,” says
Throne. “People get into minimalism in
different ways.”
Acknowledging that Merrell is part of a
large history in the industry “of a cushioned
existence,” Throne notes that even outside
of its barefoot line, Merrell’s shoes are now
getting lighter and closer to the ground
across the board. “We are surprised at
how quickly consumers are embracing the
change. I think the message is logical to
people and consumers get it and understand
the science behind it and that human form
didn’t evolve to run on a big heel.”
Of course, not every brand is touting minimal, and not every consumer is seeking it out.
But light, fast and flexible are ruling the day for
Spring 2012 in the trail footwear category. l
TRAIL
Bright
Lights
Inov-8/Terrafly
The intermediate trail shoe, available in men’s (the 303) and women’s (the 277) versions, is ideal for road and
hard packed trails. It is lightweight, with a more natural option for transitioning back and forth from road to trail.
It has a 6 mm toe to heel differential and offers an anatomic fit. SRP $120
Saucony/Peregrine 2
The second edition of this trail blazing shoe is even more minimal in the upper. Using the same platform, it continues to be low profile and offer responsiveness and traction for uneven surfaces. The weight is 9.9 oz (men’s),
8.7 oz (women’s). SRP $100
Tecnica/Dragon XLite
Designed as a multi-function shoe, the Dragon XLite offers the durability of a hiker, the precision and agility of an
approach shoe and the sole of a running shoe. Going against the minimalist grain, Tecnica’s TRS XLite technology
offers forward rolling motion and cushioning, but with a dual density outsole for maximum lightness underfoot. The
semi-oversized platform with an effective lug pattern provides ample grip on varied surfaces. The tech is aimed to
offer cushioning with great stability along with “best in class lightness.” SRP $115
footwearinsight.com
TRAIL
Bright
Lights
Brands are now also increasingly talking about some very “minimalist” types
of design features such as “natural movement” and “minimizing heel drop.”
Hi-Tec/Harmony Lite
Designed for multisport use, the Harmony
Lite has a premium, durable suede and
mesh upper, bespoke Italian-designed
webbing and a moisture-wicking lining.
It also features an anti-odor, antimicrobial OrthoLite sock liner and contoured
midsole with a Vibram outsole. SRP $100
Adidas/Terrex Solo
This light, durable approach shoe has
a high-traction outsole toe and coated midsole for durability. It also features adiPrene and a forefoot protection
plate for safety and comfort on extreme
approaches. The high abrasion mesh
upper offers extra durability. SRP $110
GoLite/Dart Lite
Engineered for trail running. the Dart
Lite has a zero drop last — promoting a
natural stride. It also has a fully breathable mesh and synthetic upper and a
dual density EVA midsole. It features
RockAbsorber Technology for protection, a PreciseFit System and a Sticky
Gecko Sole for traction. SRP $110
ASICS/GEL-Fuji Racer
This new style debuts as the lightest shoe in the ASICS trail line. It is
designed to provide excellent fit with
a breathable, lightweight upper and
features a water drainage system in the
outsole. SRP $110
As minimalism moves beyond road running and lifestyle into trail, light hiking and multisport,
the particular use of the product is still very much defined by the consumer.
Kigo/drive
The drive is a laced unisex shoe engineered for active wear including running,
hiking, walking, cross fit, paddle and gym
wear. Weighing in at four ounces with a
zero drop outsole and a 2 mm flexible
outsole, the barefoot-inspired shoe is
flexible and superlight. SRP $91
Teva/ReForge ion-mask
Part of Teva’s Mainline Collection, this
multi-sport shoe caters to traditional outdoor enthusiasts who hike, kayak, camp,
climb and raft. The ReForge is a men’sonly style. Water drains through the
midsole’s Drain Frame channels and the
ion-mask-treated upper shrugs off water
droplets. SRP $130
Salomon/Synapse
The Synapse is a natural motion hiking
shoe that offers the protection and stability of a hiking shoe and the lightness and
intuitive motion of a trail running shoe.
The RX Motion ride technology includes
multidirectional grip and natural motion.
The Seamless Sensifit wraps the foot
with a precise and secure fit. SRP $120
Scarpa/Spark
At 9.5 oz, the Spark is Scarpa’s lightest
trail-running shoe, a race-ready shoe
embodying its “mountain minimal” concept of stripping things down to the
basics yet providing an appropriate level
of protection. Along with a low-profile
midsole, the Spark employs a hightensile fabric forefoot strike plate and
recycled content materials. SRP $115
Traditional outdoor brands such as Columbia are embracing the minimalist trend, too.
Columbia’s Spring 2012 trail footwear line focuses on light weight, dryness and versatile trail performance.
Columbia/Powerdrain
This lightweight, multi-use shoe has a
combination mesh, TPU and EVA upper
with a TPU cap overlay. Its Techlite midsole
features drainage ports in the heel and
forefoot and a fully drainable footbed. The
outsole is siped with Omni-Grip wet grip
rubber lugs for traction. SRP $95
Merrell/Rapid Glove
Merrell is expanding its barefoot collection in Spring 2012 to include a variety of
new running, training, lifestyle and water
shoes. The Rapid Glove is a slip on with
an adjustable in-step webbing strap for
a precise fit.
Stem/Natural Origins
Newcomer Stem Footwear makes zero drop
minimalist shoes featuring outsoles made
of a special air-injected rubber compound
which is designed to offer a true barefoot
experience. The thin and flexible outsole
allows for optimum ground feel and unrestricted movement. The extra wide toebox
and fit of the shoe accounts for the natural
expansion of the foot upon ground contact.
ECCO/BIOM Trail
The natural motion trail shoe’s anatomical last shape offers flexibility for foot
muscle activation and ground adaption.
The rubber outsole is rugged for perfect
grip in any terrain. Available in a Yak
and textile version. SRP $ 200 (leather)
$175 (textile)
footwearinsight.com
The Dansko
Volley printed
canvas in red
palm frond;
Wrapped
Professional
in multi-stripe.
let there be
Lifestyle
Lifestyles come in all shapes and sizes. There are Lifestyles of
The Rich and Famous. There are active lifestyles, rugged lifestyles,
surf and beach lifestyles and there is everything in between. Spring
’12 footwear is the same way. There are fabulous fashionable (but
comfortable) shoes. There is footwear appropriate for the hitting
the trails or hanging around the campsite and there are other
styles more suited for sitting in a coffee shop and contemplating
the state of the universe, which could be better, but could also be
far worse (kind of like the shoe business actually).
footwearinsight.com
The Outdoor Lifestyle
Spring ’12 is full of color, function and life.
JAMBU
The Bath
JAMBU
The Barefoot
JAMBU
The Water Evo
CHACO
The Updraft
ECCO
BIOM Trail
K-SWISS
Blade Max Glide Women’s
K-SWISS
Blade Max Stable Men’s
PATAGONIA
Cragmaster
KEEN
The Turia Sandal
AHNU
The Sausalito
MERRELL
The Dash Glove
MERRELL
The Rapid Glove
OBOZ
The Mystic Low Women’s
MERRELL
The Rollout
KEEN
The Ambler Mesh
footwearinsight.com
The Stylish Lifestyle
The feminine touch is evident in these sleek silhouettes.
DANSKO
Dani in black burnished full grain
EARTHIES
Amalfi
CUSHE
The Clover
AETREX
Peep Toes, Essence Collection
SANITA
The Alberte
NAOT
The Peace Mirror
SANITA
The Naja
SANITA
The Tetris
El Naturalista
The Campos Ella
NAOT
The Trovador
ALEGRIA
The Tuscany
ALEGRIA
The Kleo
EL NATURALISTA
Cork Oak collection
MERRELL
Evera
MEPHISTO
The Prudy
Kalso Earth
The Empire
footwearinsight.com
The Active, But Comfortable, Lifestyle
On a boat, on a trail or in the office, good looks mix with performance.
Ahnu
The Bryant Canvas
SANUK
The Anthem
MEPHISTO
The Cheston for men
MEPHISTO
The Peria
SEBAGO
Triggs Chukka
SEBAGO
The Catch in Brown
SEBAGO
The Spinnaker
WOLKY
The Passion
CHACO
The Vade
CUSHE
The Evo
CHACO
The Todhino
OBOZ
The Beartooth
footwearinsight.com
The Toe-Showing Lifestyle
Spring’s favorite silhouette allows toes to roam free.
ALEGRIA
Cha-Cha
Alegria
Baliwood
BIRKENSTOCK
Granada Turquoise
BIRKENSTOCK
Larissa Habana
PATAGONIA
The Reflip
SANUK
The Chubby
KEEN
Emerald City Toe Wrap
MEPHISTO
The Delfine
ORTHAHEEL
From left: Aurora,
Layla, Lola
and Talia
footwearinsight.com
ADVERTISEMENT
The Jackie
The Jackie is Ahnu’s celebration of today’s woman and the many roles she plays as a true “Jack of All Trades.”
Featuring Numentum™ Commute technology - a neutral positioning system that keeps you balanced
and encourages your foot’s natural biomechanics for all day, go anywhere comfort.
www.ahnu.com
TREND INSIGHT
How
minimalism
figures into
the product
mix
Less Shoe, More Sales
T
he phone has been ringing off the hook at the Cinncinati based
running shop Bob Ronker’s Running Spot, and about one in
three of those calls are inquiries about minimalist or barefoot
style running shoes, “specifically Vibram Five Fingers, but
others like Newton, Merrell, Saucony, New Balance and Nike
as well,” according to Chris Reis, store manager at the retailer’s
O’Bryonville, OH location. Reis, who has been with the company for five
years, believes that the recent attention garnered from the minimalist shoe
movement is healthy for runners and the running industry alike, and he is not
the only one who thinks so.
The minimalist footwear movement has become a nationwide phenomenon,
creating unprecedented buzz for the running industry. Boulder, CO based
market research company, Leisure Trends Group, has tracked the emerging
trend for several years, both in run specialty and at outdoor retail. LTG
Retail Analyst Liz Stahura notes, “while Vibram, with its unique story and
unmistakable design, has garnered a large share of media attention and retail
sales, plenty of other brands have successfully entered the minimalist space in
2011.” According to the 2011 Leisure Trends Group Run Specialty RetailTRAK,
so far in 2011, at least 19 brands are selling one or more minimalist shoe
model at run specialty, up from about 10 last year at this time. Approximately
146 different minimal shoe styles (men’s, women’s, and junior versions are
counted separately) have sold, up from about 70 last year at this time.
In a year full of economic ups and downs, overall run specialty sales were
up 9 percent through the end of April, and Stahura credits buzz around
minimalist shoes with spurring sales in an uncertain economy. “The attention
around minimalist product is generating not only sales, but also more attention
and conversation about running in general. And we believe it is driving
new participants to the sport, and new shoppers into run specialty retail,”
she explains. According to the RetailTRAK sales figures, minimalist shoes
generated over $13 million in sales for the channel through the end of April,
accounting for 8 percent of all shoes sold and nearly all of the 7% sales growth
for the shoe category so far this year. Sales of minimalist shoes were up almost
300 percent, or $10 million from the same period in 2010, while all other shoes
were up less than 1 percent, or about $1.2 million for the same period. “There
is the potential for minimalist footwear to eat into sales from other types of
shoes, but the overall category growth is still there,” states Stahura.
The high demand keeps minimalist product moving out the door at a rapid
pace and allows retailers to maintain better than average margin for the
product. So far in 2011, the average margin for a minimalist shoe is 46 percent,
three points above the average margin for all other shoes sold at run specialty
retail (43 percent). While inventory was an issue for retailers last year with
many retailers scrambling to get a hold of product, 2011 has seen significant
inventory ramp up.
At the end of April, inventory was up over 260 percent for minimalist,
while dropping 2 percent for all other shoes. Minimalist sales kept pace with
increased inventory; sell through was up three points to 68 percent for the
Minimalist Shoe Unit Sales
Units Sold at Running Specialty Retail
6,000
180
160
5,000
140
120
2011
(in thousands)
Inventory Units
4,000
Units Sold
100
3,000
80
2010
60
2,000
2009
2008
40
1,000
20
January 2008
April 2011
January
December
footwearinsight.com
Year to Date Run Specialty Shoes Sold
Non-Minimalist / 1,749,885 (92%)
46.0%
Minimalist / 151,638 (8%)
period. Further proof that demand is keeping pace with supply: annualized turn
jumped from 3.0 last year at this time to 3.7, representing a 25 percent increase.
“The fact that retailers are seeing faster turns along with the significant increase
in inventory suggests that demand was outpacing supply in 2010 and remains
strong in 2011,” says Stahura.
Reis agrees that the attention is bringing in new customers, and generating
interest that reaches beyond their store’s existing customer base. “In many cases
they are new to running or not runners at all. We also get calls from out of state,
people asking us if we have specific styles or sizes.”
While backlash due to misuse remains a concern, retailers and brands focus
on educating their customers to minimize overuse injuries. “Everybody is
pushing the education piece, says Reis. “It is almost a liability. I am not sending
someone out the door in a pair of barefoot style shoes thinking that they can
replace their existing shoes. We tell those that are starting out that these are a
supplement to your other shoes — not your only shoes. They are not the only
thing you should run in right away.”
Stahura notes that while the minimalist frenzy may not last forever, its
positive impact on the run specialty industry has far reaching potential. “We
are looking at an opportunity to grow the overall business, generate excitement
for the sport, and gain participants which is always a positive,” she says. Reis
sums it up perfectly when he comments, “If you get that light bulb to go off for
someone and get the form stuff to click — if you can be the store that gets that
for them, you will have a customer for life.” l
Year to Date Average Margin
43.4%
42.6%
39.7%
Road
Race
Trail
Mimimalist
Non-minimalist
Actual
Shoes Sold
Percent
Shoes Sold
Left to Right: Newton Terra Momentus,
Brooks Green Silence, Merrell Pace
Glove, New Balance Minimus, Puma
Faas, Saucony Kinvara and Nike Free.
2008
2009
2010
YTD 2011 (Jan-Apr)
Minimalist Excluded
99.34%
98.77%
95.25%
92.03%
Minimalist Only
0.66%
1.23%
4.75%
7.97%
All Shoes
100%
100%
100%
100%
2008
2009
2010
YTD 2011 (Jan-Apr)
Minimalist Excluded
4,477,655
4,675,515
5,071,054
1,749,885
Minimalist Only
29,874
58,318
252,927
151,638
All Shoes
4,507,529
4,733,833
5,323,982
1,901,523
Trend InsightTM is a feature in Footwear Insight that includes consumer research and retail point-of-sale data from The Leisure Trends Group. Data in this issue’s report are based off of Leisure
Trends Group’s LeisureTRAK® report. The LeisureTRAK report is developed from a quarterly poll of 1000 American adults ages 16 and over. The results are projectable to the U.S. population.
With over 20 years of historical data, the LeisureTRAK report is the definitive source for information about Americans at play. For more information on Leisure Trends Group or its LeisureTRAK
report contact Julia Day at 303-786-7900 ext. 107 or [email protected]. For additional information on Trend Insight, contact Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or [email protected].
footwearinsight.com
A Special Report to Footwear Insight • July/August 2011
THE BOOT BOOK
WORK
BOOTS
GEAR UP
2011 is the year of
the hard-working,
good-looking,
24/7 uber boot
Georgia Boot’s
Diamond Trax
B
oot brands are working extra hard these days to design footwear that
goes to the head of its class. When describing what wearers want, they
use words like “durable,” “dependable,” “comfortable” and “versatile.” But
how do these words translate into insoles and outsoles? As this edition of
the Boot Book illustrates, the answers are being fueled by a host of factors.
2. Fashion Puts Its Best Foot Forward. Work boots aren’t exactly ready for a
strut down the catwalk, but they are getting more stylish. Some are walking back
to their retro roots or evoking the wild, wild West; others are placing splashes of
3. Is It a Shoe? Is It a Boot? No, it’s Super Boot. Increasingly, you can’t tell a boot
from a shoe. A new generation of wearers, used to running the world in sneakers,
is demanding a lighter, more athletic look for work and outdoor boots and expects
this new breed of footwear to do double, even triple duty both on and off the job.
4. The Hi-Tech Track. Boots now come fully loaded with a plethora of patented
proprietary systems. Special linings wick away moisture; gel pads and cushions
provide comfort; slip-free lug patterns eat dirt; dials and rockers provide a
custom-like fit; and new materials like ion-Mask create full-proof waterproofing.
– Nancy A. Ruhling
Photo: Frank James
1. Custom Comfort Right Out of the Box. Hi-tech features allow the wearer to
adjust the boot to fit like a glove, and wider toes and narrower heels provide a
better fit. More brands are making women-specific sizes and styles.
striking accent colors in strategic spots or adding colors to the standard black and
brown lineup.
THE BOOT BOOK
Top-Treading Trends
> Boots get their legs with comfort, style and hi-tech features
1. Altama’s Desert EXO, created for
light-duty military/tactical missions, is
made of tan desert suede and air mesh to
blend in with the sand.
“This boot has evolved from the popular
Original Desert EXOSpeed and EXOSpeed
II styles that were introduced in 2006 and
2009,” says Jami McCord, marketing and
e-commerce manager. “Each aspect of
this boot has been refined to create the
most desirable tactical style.”
Today’s wearers expect lightweight
comfort and athletic design, and the
new EXO is as light as it looks – there’s
no metal construction. Approved for
wear with the U.S. Army uniform, it has
a suede-cushioned collar that keeps
bloused pants in place. Its removable
innersole, a multi-cushioned orthotic,
provides extra comfort and fit.
Add to this EXO lug-patterned soles,
dual-zone wicking and breathable air
mesh, a slip-, acid- and oil-resistant and
non-marking rubber outsole, molded
ethylene vinyl acetate midsole and nylon
speed laces, and it’s a real trooper.
1
2
3
4
5
44 • A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011
2. Baffin’s Premium Worker Hi-Viz has
turned up the temperature on a brand
whose boots work in the coldest places
on the planet.
Designed for cold-weather or cold-storage wear, the full-grain leather, waterproof boot’s non-metallic hardware,
safety toe and puncture-proof plate
make it ideal for airport and public
utility workers.
Features of the eight-inch industrial
boot include a lightweight polyurethane
midsole that wraps the foundation of the
foot; Icepaw outsole pads for traction
on ice; extra wide toe box for comfort;
B-tek insulation that keeps feet warm in
temperatures as low as minus-22 degrees
Fahrenheit; Hi-Viz accents for increased
visibility and safety; and Gelflex pads
that shield high-impact areas like the
heel spur and metatarsal. Available
in black or brown, it meets Canadian
Standards Association and ASTM
standards for impact, puncture and
electric shock resistance.
“Not everyone needs the same
protection as our consumers in Northern
Alaska, Fort Mac Alberta or Eastern
Russia, but no one wants cold feet,” says
Mark Ducharme, industrial sales manager.
“This boot keeps feet warm without the
bulk of a traditional winter boot.
3. Bates’ Delta-9 Desert Tan,
designed for work, uniform and military
applications in multi-terrain environments, utilizes the brand’s new iCS
comfort technology.
With iCS, the wearer simply turns
a disc to swiftly switch between four
comfort zones – firm, outward, cushion
and inward. The boot also has a slipresistant Vibram Mutant rubber outsole
whose lug design provides increased
traction, a stain-resistant, Scotchguardprotected Warrior Leather upper, plus a
full-cushion ethylene vinyl acetate footbed and gel forepart pad that provide
added cushioning.
“The proprietary technology sets this
boot apart,” says Andrew Fowler, director
of sales. “Our consumers desire lightweight, comfort and durability when it
comes to on-duty and off-duty footwear.
We created this boot with features that
meet those demands.”
4. Blundstone’s BL560, a lifestyle and
work boot, is the “warm and dry” version
of the brand’s classic pull-on.
It comes equipped with a thinsulate lining, waterproof leather and gore, oil- and
acid-resistant thermoplastic polyurethane
outsole and a natural shearling insole
that’s removable.
“Blundstone is known worldwide as
the original pull-on work and lifestyle
boot,” says Tim Engel, vice president,
sales. “More and more brands are coming out with laceless pull-on boots, and
Blundstone is proud to be known as the
original. As we like to say, ‘Often copied,
never duplicated.’”
5. Bogs’ Industrial Chukka, in steel-toe
and non-steel-toe versions and a slip-on
style, is the ideal worker: It’s designed to
show up early, stay late and never
call in sick.
THE BOOT BOOK
The Industrial Chukka, which has a
durable, hand-lasted rubber upper with
waterproof Neo-Tech and Airmesh insulation,
comes with a host of hi-tech features. They
include the brand’s Channel Air system that
maximizes air flow and wicks away moisture,
an Ortholite insole and an ASTM-approved
chemical- and slip-resistant non-marking
and self-cleaning deep-lug outsole. The contoured fit includes a wider forefront and narrower heel for comfort.
“Our Chukka allows anyone to stay
comfortable in the most uncomfortable
conditions,” says Bill Combs, founder
and president. “Our steel toe actually
keeps feet warm, even in sub-zero conditions. Add in superior traction and high
shafts to protect against chemical splashes
with 100 percent waterproof protection, and
you’ve got a boot that works as hard as the
guys who need them do.”
6
7
8
9
10
6. Cat’s Grist, a pull-on waterproof work
boot, expands the brand’s use of Flexion,
which moves with the body and feet,
reducing fatigue.
“Flexion, which we debuted in 2010, is our
most successful technology launch to date,”
says Kelly Ballou, marketing manager. “It
works around the natural shapes of the foot
using biomechanics and ergonomics to keep
the foot aligned along its natural gait cycle.
Flexion provides out-of-the-box comfort.
Your feet feel as good at the end of the
day as they do at the beginning.”
The Grist, which sports classic
Wellington styling, is a work beast. It
has an ASTM steel toe, slip-resistant
outsole, electrical hazard protection,
waterproof upper of full-grain leather plus
synthetic, nylon mesh lining, removable ethylene vinyl acetate sock liner and a molded
polyurethane midsole.
7. Danner’s Workman GTX, a steel-shank
leather work boot that weighs in at only 64
ounces, is a study in rugged refinement.
Its breathable Gore-Tex waterproof liner
stays dry even in extreme conditions; its
full-grain leather is comfortable and durable; its stitchdown construction provides a
wider platform for stability; and its Vibram
Duralogical outsole fights fatigue.
It’s available in six-inch and eight-inch
styles. The steel-toe version meets or
exceeds ASTM standards for electrical
hazard footwear.
“Reliability and high durability are important to our customers,” says Laurie Shaw,
marketing director. “They want products
that can be recrafted; with these boots, the
outsoles can be replaced, the leather can be
reworked and the seams can be restitched,
stretching the lifespan of the boot and mak-
ing it a better return on investment. They are
willing to pay more for quality since they will
be using these boots every day.”
8. Dickies’ Heritage 6013 and 6023, sixinch steel-toe and soft-toe electrical-hazard
work boots, bring the past up to date.
Made of premium, full-grain saddle
brown textured leather with antique brass
hardware and a heat-embossed Dickies
logo, this boot looks as good as it works
and feels. There’s a padded collar and
tongue for added comfort and a rubber
heel guard for extra stability and protection. The industrial rubber outsole, which
uses a traditional welted construction, is
oil- and slip-resistant. Fully lined with moisture-wicking performance fabric, the boot
also has a removable memory foam insole.
“Features that speak to the heritage
or longevity of the brand are popular, as
are technical features,” says Jeff Huckle,
product manager.
9. Harley-Davidson Footwear’s Sirocco,
a performance riding and street-wear boot,
literally plugs into the latest technology with
a state-of-the-art heater.
The battery-charged heater in the boot’s
forepart radiates heat from the sole up,
helping keep feet warm on long rides. The
removable charger, which has three settings,
provides 3.5 to seven hours of heat after a
4.5-hour charge via a jack in the boot’s back.
The Sirocco, a classic lace-up motorcycle
silhouette with a slightly more aggressive
tread, also features a waterproof full-grain
leather upper and Hydro-Guard waterproof
membrane lining and a slip-, abrasion- and
oil-resistant Vibram outsole.
“This is the first boot in our arsenal to
incorporate the ThermalBed Technology,”
says Hobie Burgnon, VP-sales. “The challenge for us is to create styles that improve
the riding experience without alienating the
wearer. The Sirocco, which is undeniably
Harley-Davidson in heritage and aesthetics,
does this.”
10. Hi-Tec’s V-Lite Mt. Nevis II WPi, a
men’s lightweight hiker, is equipped with a
slew of best-foot-forward technical features.
In addition to Hi-Tec’s signature ion-Mask
waterproofing technology, the V-Lite has a
moisture-wicking lining, comfort-Tec sock
liner, Stabila-Flex bi-fit board that eliminates
the need for a heavy steel shank, compression-molded ethylene vinyl acetate midsole
and high-traction outsole.
“They are called V-Lite because the vertical build concept strips away as much
weight as possible without sacrificing performance or durability attributes,” says CEO
Bill Berta. “No specific technology can be
THE BOOT BOOK
credited for the light weight of these boots.
It’s the combination of innovative materials, construction and experience of over 30
years in the industry.”
The two color combinations of the mesh
and suede uppers – olive/taupe/Dijon and
smokey brown/taupe/saffron – make them
catwalk contenders.
11
11. Justin Original Workboots No. 434, a
six-inch non-steel-toe rugged tan gaucho
handcrafted in America, is a real work horse.
Part of the J-Max collection of work
boots, it’s designed to go the extra mile
through hours of grueling, physically straining work. Its insole features special systems
for comfort and freedom of movement,
low-impact, lightweight, flexible gel-cushion
inserts, a padded collar and tongue and a
lining to keep feet dry.
The soles are equipped with ladder grips and Elastomer pads to
increase abrasion resistance and
slip resistance.
“These boots incorporate industryleading technology with quality, long-lasting
materials for best-in-class footwear,” says
Brandon Barker, brand manager.
12
13
12. Kamik’s Jennifer, a performance
lifestyle rain boot, combines fashion and
function in lightweight, colorful footwear.
Canadian-made, Jennifer is 100 percent
waterproof and 100 percent recyclable. It’s
made of rubber helium. Rubber helium, the
brand’s proprietary product, is PVC-free,
feels like natural rubber, keeps its form
and traction in cold weather and is much
lighter than rubber.
“Kamik is one of the last if not only companies that can say that it still manufacturers in North America,” says Catherine Cook,
marketing director. “Comfort and lightweight
boots are very important to our customers.”
14
15
13. Keen Utility’s Tacoma is designed to
work on work days and weekends, too.
Made with a waterproof nubuck
leather upper, the Tacoma’s distinctive silhouette and style set it apart as
do its hi-tech features, which include a
KeenDry waterproof, breathable membrane
and a Dri-Lex lining that has two-zone comfort technology that allows moisture out but
never in. Its Goodyear welted construction
makes it flexible and durable, and its oiland slip-resistant non-marking rubber sole
make it good to go on any surface.
Keen Utility’s patented left and right
asymmetrical steel toes, whose contoured
shapes provide superior lightweight protection, meet American National Standards
Institute requirements for electrical hazard
protection and open circuits. It’s available
with or without steel toes in black, brown
and wheat colors.
“The Tacoma is a modern take on a classic that fulfills everything Keen holds dear
— a work boot that stands on its own,” says
Kevin Kious, sales manager. “But when it
comes down to working, it has you covered.”
14. Kodiak’s Rebel, a steel-toe, electrical
hazard industrial safety boot, offers a lightweight profile and contemporary style.
The boot, which has a smoke-color
nubuck leather upper with abrasion-resistant
nylon panels, is available as six-inch and
eight-inch styles. It meets or exceeds ASTM
and Canadian Standards Association standards for impact, compression and puncture
resistance.
Features include a high-frequency molded
leather heel guard and stability strap; reinforced rubber bottom eyestay; abrasionresistant rubber toe guard, patented padded
anatomical tongue; anatomical wide-fitting
last, removable anti-fatigue footbed with
energy-transfer heel and forefoot pads;
lightweight direct-injected polyurethane
midsole; and a thermoplastic polyurethane
outsole with a slip-resistant tread design.
“The Rebel offers exceptional styling
with all of the key safety components at a
great value,” says Erron Sorensen, senior
VP-sales.
15. LaCrosse’s Alpha Mudlite, an easyon/easy-off rubber work boot, is a stickler
for mud.
The lightweight oil- and slip-resistant
boot, rubber over naturally insulating neoprene, is made of a bi-directional abrasion- and puncture-resistant upper material and has a removable ethylene vinyl
acetate footbed and a rubber-cup outsole
with built-in floatable rubber midsole. Its
steel-toe versions comply with ASTM electrical hazard standards.
“Many boots in this category offer a few
of these features,” says Laurie Shaw, marketing director. “But Mudlite was created to
be the boot in our line that has it all.”
16. Magnum USA’s Sidewinder HPi in
MultiCam, a military boot designed particularly for Special Forces in Afghanistan and
Iraq, also transitions to the hunting and outdoors market.
In development for more than a year
with the help of American, British and
Southern Hemisphere Special Forces personnel, this tactical/military/outdoors boot
is the first fully camouflaged boot, from
the tip of its top to its sole. It is built for
high-terrain mountain operations and the
harshest environments.
“There was a tremendous need for
a fully camouflaged boot,” says Alexis
Nascimento, public relations manager. “No
one else is addressing this need in the marketplace. Nothing in nature is black – and
in sniper training, one of the first rules of
thumb is to look for boots on the ground.
Full camo, including the soles of our boots,
will indeed save soldiers’ lives. In the past,
snipers would spray paint the bottoms of
their boots, which wears off during time.”
Featuring ion-Mask technology, which
makes it impervious to water and other
liquids, the MultiCam has a locking cleat
in the sixth position that prevents loosening of laces; a Tec Tuff leather toe that is
made from specially treated leather and
is 100 times more abrasion-resistant than
standard leather; the hardest durometer
Vibram rubber soles to prevent cuts; and
an OrthoLite footbed designed exclusively
for Magnum and military use. The boot is
designed to carry 175 pounds on top of the
wearer’s body weight for a year in combat.
17. Mountrek’s Dylan Field casual men’s
boot is a functional, fashionable waterproof chukka that’s made to work the
after-sports shift.
It has a lightweight and flexible polyurethane and rubber outsole for shock
absorption, plus a minimal compression
set. Its duel-density contoured open-cell
foam insole has a thermoplastic urethane
heel and shank support. In addition, it
sports 360-degree protective rubber foxing and speed lacing.
“Chukka boots are a trend right now and
have timeless styling,” says Donna Colella,
brand manager. “These are easy-to-wear
casuals that have built-in function.”
18. Muck Boot’s Excursion Hiker, a
lightweight, rugged, casual, 100 percent
waterproof hiker for the outdoor enthusiast,
is designed to keep feet and boot together
even in the stickiest situations.
Its cinch lace cord lock, laminated to
its five-millimeter neoprene upper, gives a
snug ankle fit. The lower part of the boot
protects the foot with armored rubber, and
the new Radial outsole is made of lightweight rubber in a horizontal-wedge pattern that helps shed debris quickly. It also
features a cushioned ethylene vinyl acetate
midsole, a breathable moisture-wicking lining and an Achilles footbed for more shock
absorption. What’s more, it keeps feet
comfortable in temperatures ranging from
sub-freezing to 85 degrees.
“It offers the most extreme comfort you
can find in this category,” says product
manager Ari Mintz. “And the boots secure
protection from wet, snowy or muddy days
and will stay in place when walking on
uneven terrain.”
Its neutral two-color upper and bottom,
available in Lake Green, Carbon and a new
Mossy Oak BreakUp, make the hiker perfect for outdoor and causal clothing.
16
19. Rocky Boots’ Long Range Work
Boot stays a step ahead with combined
technologies.
Its Long Range X Peak Performance
System has 10 highly engineered components ranging from a removable, recyclable,
odor-resistant footbed that has dual-density
cushion and air flow chambers and a lifetime guarantee to the Stabili-Shank, a
patented design for arch support and edgeto-edge lateral stability. The boot also has
a breathable, waterproof membrane and an
ASTM-approved aluminum safety toe that
is lighter than steel.
“The Long Range utilizes technology
no other work brand is using,” says Steve
Graham, marketing manager. “Many of its
features are the first to appear in the footwear market and are truly one of a kind in
the industry.”
20. Salomon’s Quest 4D GTX is a light
and fast yet fully loaded backpacking and
tactical boot that also may be worn in the
everyday workplace.
It finds its comfort zone via the brand’s
most advanced trail-running technologies.
These include the contragrip, a mix of
compound, lug geometry and density that
provides great grip and durability, and a
4DChassis that applies cushioning, stability
and all-mountain traction through trail-running design applied to trekking. A Gore-Tex
waterproof bootie construction, heel foam,
waterproof split suede leather, a protective
rubber toe cap and gusseted tongue round
out its features.
“The Quest uses cutting-edge technology
to make boots lighter and faster without
compromising protection and stability,”
says Lauren Barra, product category manager. “It has a sleek profile and fashionforward colorways, including ones that are
women-specific.”
21. Tecnica’s Max Hiker Mid GTX is a
fast-hiking boot that combines comfort and
versatility with top-of-the-mountain trekking
performance.
Its Tecnica Rolling System Max oversize
technology makes it 25 percent lighter
yet gives it 100 percent more cushioning
volume for all-day comfort every day. The
Vibram sole provides a great grip, and GTX
adds comfort and waterproofness.
“Oversize sports equipment has long
been proven to enhance performance,”
says Tom Berry, VP-global sales and marketing. “It makes sense to incorporate it
into footwear. Much like a mountain bike
versus a road bike, TRS Max makes sense
17
18
19
20
21
A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011 • 49
THE BOOT BOOK
23
24
22
for trail shoes. Studies have shown that TRS Max users use 13 percent less energy and experience up to 7 percent less force impact.”
22. Terra’s Marauder, a work/construction/industrial boot 24 months in
development, is the brand’s first completely metal-free eight-incher.
The boot, made in Canada, features a direct-injected rubber outsole
that kicks away debris and foreign objects and has an aggressive-lug,
slip-resistant tread pattern designed to decrease slips and falls. The boot
also has a lightweight, direct-injected shock-absorbing polyurethane
midsole with a toe bumper, a premium full-grain waterproof leather upper
and a CLEANFeet Treated, moisture-wicking Aerospacer lining.
“The Marauder series outsole takes inspiration from the military, innovation from athletic footwear and incorporates our manufacturing expertise,” says Erron Sorensen, senior VP-sales. “This boot represents our
most significant breakthrough in the design and manufacture of safety
footwear in Canada.”
23. Timberland’s Mountain Athletics LiteTrace Mid Waterproof, a
men’s multi-sport, takes a giant step into the lightweight category.
Weighing in at only 12.5 ounces, it’s the brand’s lightest design. In a
stylish bold orange, it offers the attributes of a traditional hiker and the
comfort of a sneaker. The boot, essentially only a membrane, eliminates
layers to create a close-to-the-foot waterproof shell, and its Pebax foam
heel is 20 percent lighter than ethylene vinyl acetate and more durable.
The green rubber outsole, made of 42 percent recycled rubber, is
designed for traction and durability on trails.
“Traditional multi-sport boots are still heavy compared to other types
of active footwear,” says Gregg Duffy, senior director of outdoor performance. “We’re the first brand to use Prebax in a multi-sport.”
Duffy says Timberland created this boot because “we are literally seeing consumers on the trails hiking in their sneakers — they’re not getting
what they need in the multi-sport category.”
24. Timberland Pro’s Helix six-inch Composite Toe is a lightweight
full-grain leather industrial work boot that can stand on its own two
feet for hours on end.
It gets its lasting power from the brand’s Anti-Fatigue Technology —
molded, inverted cones that support, collapse and return in key pressure
zones. A roomy, composite safety toe provides lightweight protection
and comfort; a waterproof membrane keeps feet dry; and a slip-resistant
lugged outsole enhances traction.
“The Helix provides lightweight comfort and support without sacrificing
26
25
27
protection, a rare combination to find in the industrial footwear category,”
says Jim O’Connor, senior director of product and marketing. “It also
negates the need for companies to provide expensive anti-fatigue mats
that can pose dangerous tripping hazards.”
25. TrekSta’s Evolution Mid GTX, a hiking boot with men’s and women’s
versions, gets its traction by treading lightly while staying in the comfort
zone. The brand’s nestFIT design, which resembles the foot, increases
comfort and cushion response while eliminating hot spots. The sole features HyperGrip and IceLock rubber compounds.
“Out nestFIT offers a fit and concept that has never been produced
and gives the feeling of a semi-custom fit right out of the box,” says Mike
Barker, sales coordinator. “Also, we made sure to use the lightest material
possible while still including the necessary support structure for carrying a
40-plus-pound pack on varying terrain.”
26. Vasque’s Talus WP, a heritage-style waterproof hiker in men’s
and women’s versions, combines old-world charm with new-school
performance.
It has chic, classic looks – metal eyelets and red laces. And techietouches – a dual-density ethylene vinyl acetate footbed, a molded
polyurethane midsole, a Vibram Nuasi outsole, an Ultimate Fit
Perpetuum last (and a gender-specific one for women) and an UltraDry
waterproofing system.
“The focus is on fit and comfort,” says Kyle Rackiewicz, product
development director. “We’re adding a more simplified vamp on some
products to add color pops and more design flair into the hiking and
multi-sport segments.”
27. Wolverine’s Northman, a work boot with a traditional silhouette,
is part of a new line handcrafted in the brand’s Big Rapids, Michigan,
factory that pays homage to the company’s history of more than 125
years in business.
Available in brown or black with an optional steel-toe, insulated or noninsulated, it is built of Horween leather, the gold standard. Its Goodyear
Welt construction, which allows the boot to be re-soled, partners with
performance technologies, including a breathable Gore-Tex waterproof
lining, a dual-density polyurethane and rubber Vibram 360-degree outsole,
a polyurethane footbed and a leather midsole that molds to the foot.
“The Northman combines time-tested construction methods and performance technologies for a premium work boot that is built to perform
and last,” says Roger Huard, VP-product development.
THE BOOT BOOK
BORN IN
THE U.S.A.
T
oday, the “Made in America” label is
gaining cache with customers, and the
brands are working hard to get their
word out. We asked some key companies about their USA branding campaigns.
“We’re proud to say we’re handcrafted in the
USA. We’re committed to continuing the timehonored tradition of selling boots that are handcrafted in America as much as possible and are
touched by the support we receive from our consumers on the topic.”
Louis Russo, Brand Manager, Justin Boot Co.
“The Justin name represents a brand that has
been rooted in the heritage of the American West
since 1879. Continuing this honored tradition,
domestic manufacturing of J-Max boots is an
important focus for the brand, and all products
are American-made. The ‘Handcrafted in the USA’
label we place on our products is a major part of
our brand’s objective and mission, and we continue to experience positive consumer feedback.”
Brandon Barker, Brand Manager,
Justin Original Workboots
“Lucchese was founded in 1883 by Sam
Lucchese in San Antonio, TX. He founded the
company on principles of quality craftsmanship
and building a product that will fit the human foot
unlike any other. He spent years developing a
one-of-a-kind last that we still use today almost
130 years later. Our boots are proudly made in
Texas by artisans who have over many, many
years developed their skills to be master boot
makers. We have the best craftsmen in Texas,
and there is no other place Lucchese would rather
have its products made.”
Mario Vega, Marketing Director,
Lucchese Cowboy
A Breed Apart
> Western boots ride the range into the 21st century
The cowboy boot is America’s hardest working boot. Nobody knows for sure who made the
first one, but it is believed that along about 1870 some cowboy got some cobbler to craft it.
This newfangled boot wasn’t about vanity; it was about practicality. From its pointy toe to its
tall leather shank, the boot, first and foremost, was meant to tame the wild, wild West.
Nearly 150 years later, the cowboy boot, rechristened the Western boot, is still on the job.
Taking the best from the past and the present, this new herd of boots offers hi-tech comfort,
old-world handcraftsmanship and 21st-century styling. – NR
1. DURANGO
Durango’s DB5534, a Western/lifestyle boot, is
a classic men’s style in distressed tan with simple
stitching on the shaft. The full-grain leather boot
features a snip toe and a two-inch cowboy heel.
“This is a timeless style that is a great allaround boot for someone who wants a straightup cowboy look,” says Amber Vanwy, marketing
manager. “We made a best seller even better by
updating it with a more modern toe and more
comfort features.”
western style hand made in Spain, shows its
fashion side with elaborate pin-tuck quilting and
multi-colored studs polished to a shine.
The short-shaft boot, hand-studded and
hand-antiqued, is Goodyear welted and fully
lined with pigskin.
“The short shaft is suitable for skinny jeans
and dresses,” says Michael Petry, VP-design.
“Its stellar craftsmanship, highest-quality Italian
leather, hand-antiquing and hand-made construction make it best in show.”
2. FRYE
Frye’s Deborah Pin Tuck, a classic women’s
3. JUSTIN BOOT CO.
Justin Boot Co.’s Bent Rail is functional,
2
3
“Being able to offer our consumers products that
are handcrafted in the USA gives us a significant advantage in the market. Tony Lama Boots
launched the Americana collection to directly
address those consumers who desire products
that are manufactured by American workers.”
Mike Fuller, Brand Manager, Tony Lama Boots
“It’s an advantage to make our boots in the USA
because it not only pays homage to our history and allows us to leverage our Big Rapids,
Michigan, factory; it also fulfills a consistent consumer desire for premium work boots that are
American made. The boots give a sense of pride
to anyone who wears them because they’re made
in the USA.”
Roger Huard, VP-Product Development,
Wolverine
1
4
fashionable, workable and authentically Western
in keeping with the brand’s 130-year tradition.
“From exotic leathers and a variety of toe and
upper offerings, to patented technology features
like the J-Flex Flexible Comfort System, our
boots offer a solution for every lifestyle,” says
Louis Russo, brand manager. “Justin boots offer
great looking styles that meet the needs of a
consumer’s daily routine.”
4. JUSTIN ORIGINAL WORKBOOTS
Justin Original Workboots’ No. 4444 builds
upon the brand’s 130-year heritage of the
American West with a sleek, contemporary
style that works in the office or in the
great outdoors.
The 11-inch rugged bay gaucho, part of the
J-Max collection, veers from the classic with
a round, non-steel toe. It’s filled with creature
comforts that stand out at every cattle call.
There’s a system to make feet more comfortable and one that lets the feet move
where they want to when they want to.
Lightweight gel-cushion inserts give a feelgood walk to the pull-on boot, and a special
lining keeps feet dry. There’s a removable
orthotic, and ladder grips and Elastomer pads
provide additional on-the-job safety.
“We’ve been making boots since 1879, and
these boots leverage our experience resulting
in attributes that great work boots require –
performance, function, comfort and stability,”
says Brandon Barker, brand manager.
5. LUCCHESE COWBOY
Lucchese Cowboy’s 12-Inch Apollo Black
Saddle Pin Ostrich defines the heritage of the
American West.
The made-in-Texas brand has been riding
the range since 1883, and the Apollo is
a winning combination of classic and contemporary styling. It has a leather insole and a
one-of-a-kind rubber outsole for comfort
and durability.
“It has the Western look and still gives the
comfort, necessities and quality of a working
boot,” says Mario Vega, marketing director.
“So you get two in one.”
6. RESISTOL RANCH BOOTS
Resistol Ranch Boots’ eight-inch Lace-Up
With Calvert Stitch Pattern Tobacco Vintage
Calf is rugged and durable enough to suit
the everyday working cowboy. Yet it’s stylish
enough to kick up its heels in town, too.
“It has a contemporary/fashion look
and features premium leathers and design,”
says Michael Lawlor, VP-brand development.
“So you can still use these boots when you
go out.”
7. ROCKY BOOTS
Rocky Boots’ Handhewn Western Boot, with
its nailed-on leather outsole, traditional silhouette and ease in and out of the stirrup, is a classic in the work/Western category.
For extra ruggedness, it is available with a
rubber outsole, and both styles feature the
TechnoStride heel, which gives a smoother
gait via a rolled heel strike area. The boot also
is slip-resistant and comes in a variety of toes,
including square, U and R shapes.
“People want something that looks heritagerich,” says Amber Vanwy, marketing manager.
“The Handhewn collection offers traditional
Western styling with the added features of a
modern boot.”
8. TONY LAMA BOOTS
Tony Lama Boots’ TLX Western Work Boot, a
stylish take on the brand’s long tradition, is loaded
with patented technology features that offer comfort, safety and performance.
Its TLX Performance Comfort Package includes
durable rubber outsoles and scored PVC midsoles
that sport mesh-covered open-cell foam insoles.
“We pride ourselves on offering boots that
combine fashionable elements such as modern,
brightly colored uppers with original brand features such as intricate hand-stitching patterns,”
says Mike Fuller, brand manager.
5
8
7
6
A Special Report to Footwear Insight ~ July/August 2011 • 53
THE BOOT BOOK
Mom + Pop + 2 Sons = One Successful Store
> Outdoor Sports Center in Connecticut got its start on a front porch
By Nancy A. Ruhling
F
Great selection: Outdoor Sports Center covers everything from skiing to camping.
or more than a half century, Outdoor Sports Center has made a
name for itself outfitting the citizens of Wilton, CT, for a variety
of activities. In retail, there’s no magic formula for success for
longtime longevity like this. But in today’s market, where the
big-box guys with the razzle-dazzle Web sites seem to get most of the
attention and sales, Outdoor Sports Center stands out — for what it
isn’t and for what it doesn’t do.
First off, Outdoor Sports Center only has one store. There are only
a handful of businesses in Wilton, so its 40,000-square-foot standalone space, which is on a main street, makes quite a bricks-andmortar statement.
Secondly, it’s a third-generation mom-and-pop shop or rather
a mom-, pop- and two-son shop. Jack and Linda Maxwell are the
owners; son Scott, who has been helping out ever since he could walk,
is the general manager, and son William runs the IT department.
Thirdly, the company doesn’t have an e-commerce Web site. Yes,
you read that right. It does have a Web site – outdoorsports.com – but
it’s only used as a virtual calling card to let the world know it exists.
“We are successful for two reasons,” says Scott. “Number one is
service; number two is selection. Having such a large selection may be
overkill at times, but it’s important that we sell a lot of brands.”
The store, which has a staff of 30 to 70 depending on the season, is
housed in two buildings and has two floors. It is set up like a series of
stores, one for each sports category — skiing, snowboarding, camping,
hiking, canoeing, kayaking and stand-up paddle boarding. It carries car
Outdoor Sports Center In Wilton, Connecticut: The 40,000-square-foot store is housed in two buildings.
THE BOOT BOOK
“We are successful for two reasons: One is service. Two Is selection.”
Scott maxwell, general manager
grandparents, John and Sidney Maxwell,
racks and the appropriate apparel for each
who were avid skiers at a time when not
activity. In addition, there are full-service
many Americans were familiar with the
bicycle and ski workshops.
sport, started selling the equipment from
Its 5000-square-foot footwear
their front porch in 1955.
department, which carries more than 30
“My grandfather, who is now in his
outdoor and winter boot brands, is on the
90s, was a chemist,” Scott says. “This
first floor of the main building at the back
was a sideline. He and my grandmother
entrance. It is arranged by sports category.
wanted to get people in Wilton interested
“We don’t use any manufacturer signage,”
in skiing and outdoor activities.”
Scott says. “We do all the in-store signs
The company was incorporated in
ourselves so they have a similar look.”
1966, and at one point expanded to five
Some 40 percent of the footwear stock
shops in communities around Wilton.
is boots for men, women and children.
Jack and Linda took over in the early
The North Face is the best seller; Baffin is
1970s and pared the shops to two then
number two.
one.
“Our customers are looking for fit and
“My brother and I were young, and
performance,” Scott says. “It’s all about
it was too hard for them to keep all the
how it feels on the foot. Some of them
Many Categories: Boots are arranged by gender. A canoe suspended
shops,” Scott says. “My parents are the
even ask for boots that have specific
from the ceiling reminds customers to check out the other sporting
ones who turned the company into a
branded features like Gore-Tex waterproof,
goods equipment, apparel and footwear in the store.
viable way to make a living.”
breathable liners and Vibram soles.” All
The current store was built in 1983, and
of Outdoor Sports Center’s sales are on
at least for the time being, the family has no plans to add more.
site. “We do have a discount site to unload stock, but it’s under a different
As far as turning things over to a new generation, Scott says, “It will
name,” Scott says. “We don’t have an e-commerce site yet because we
be a long time ‘til we cross that bridge. I just turned 30, and Will is 28.
want to do it right. We probably will have one in the next two years, but
Neither of us have children. Our parents are still active in making the
right now, we’re concentrating on brick and mortar.”
business decisions.” n
Outdoor Sports Center didn’t start out to be a business. Scott’s
your niche
is our niche
SPORTING GOODS THE BEST GIRLS’ PRODUCTS / P62 SOCKS THE GREAT DIVIDE / P56
COMPRESSION TIGHTENING ITS GRIP / P65 DAN MANN MAKE IT MEMORABLE / P16
OUTDOOR RETAILER WINTER MARKET REVIEW
TM
The Digital Magazine for the Running Market • April 30, 2011 • Vol.3, No.8
Trends, perspecTive & analysis
TReNdS, PeRSPecTIve aNd aNalySIS
www.SPORTSINSIGHTMAG.COM
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SPORTS INSIGHT
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Leading executives
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The power of a retailer is often measured by the amount of business it does.
But in the case of The Power 12, their influence is felt in other ways. These
dozen stores are major influencers in their region and throughout the entire
sporting goods category. Some stores emulate them, others work their buys
and strategies around what they do and many retailers are motivated by the
opportunity to compete against them. (See page 17)
KwiK GOAl ExTENDS
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THE POWER
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BIG 5 SPORTING GOODS
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The Retailer’s Digital Magazine • April 2011 • Vol.3, No.4
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DRiVE SAlES iN 2011
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Tongues
Two Old Friends Re-Connect
Over an Invention and a Dream
By Craig Heisner
I
t’s hard to imagine how two friends from a college prep school
in Nashua, NH, with such contrasting career paths would have a
reason to work together after 25 years, but that’s exactly what’s
happened with me and Jim Collins. Our lives moved in different
directions after our four years at Bishop Guertin High School.
Jim headed to Holy Cross, where he excelled in the classroom
as a physics major, earning class valedictorian while also competing
successfully as a member of the cross country and track teams as a
4:18 miler. I stayed in-state and earned a degree in economics at the
University of New Hampshire while keeping my passion for athletics alive
as a wide receiver on the UNH football team.
After graduation, Jim studied at Oxford as a Rhodes Scholar, where
he earned a doctorate in medical engineering before accepting a
faculty position at Boston University in 1990 in their Biomedical
Engineering department. He’s never left and is now the cofounder
Jim Collins
and co-director of the University’s Center for BioDynamics. His
career has brought great success with numerous awards for both his
work in the classroom and his contributions to research and science
including the MacArthur “Genius” Award. Additionally, Collins is a
core founding faculty member of the Wyss Institute for Biologically
Inspired Engineering at Harvard University.
My career has taken a somewhat different route. After several years
in sales and marketing roles in the food business, (Campbell Soup Co.
and PowerBar) and a hiatus to earn my MBA, I’ve worked primarily in
the athletic footwear and apparel industry with senior-level marketing
and GM roles with New Balance, Reebok, and Brooks Sports. I’ve been
fortunate to have contributed to some significant growth both with
the New Balance Running business unit in the ’90’s and a strategic
overhaul with Brooks Sports prior to the business being sold to
True
“smart”
technology that
works with
the natural
human sensory
system
Russell Corp. I’ve also worked with several major brands in strategic
consulting roles and had the chance to contribute on the Chicago
2016 Olympic bid team.
On paper, we had little reason to connect through work, but an
incredibly intriguing invention by Jim in the late ’90’s changed all of that.
It was at that time that he and I re-connected and shared ideas on what
we were working on. Jim told me about his research on a concept that
involved a unique technology called “stochastic resonance” that had
been around for 10 years or so but had never before been used to treat
medical conditions. He had come up with the idea of utilizing vibrating
random noise and neuro-stimulation to improve the sensory and motor
performance of the human body. Most importantly, he had proven in
clinical studies that he could improve balance and tactile sensation when
applied to specific areas and had done so for both the elderly in balance
studies and diabetics who suffered from peripheral neuropathy. Pretty
heady stuff for a shoe industry guy like me to understand, but it sure got
my wheels spinning on the market opportunities in the industry.
I remember thinking at the time that this is exactly
what our industry needed. Rather than depending on
gimmicky components and designs, this offered true
“smart” technology that works with the natural human
sensory system to improve performance and health. This
could be a major breakthrough for the footwear business.
Fast forward almost 10 years to the Spring of 2010
where, after an unsuccessful development by a medical
device licensee, Jim’s invention was moved to the
Wyss Institute at Harvard University with the intent of
resolving the technical challenges and moving to launch
in the market. Jim shared his desire to involve me on
the project and the timing was perfect for me to join
the Wyss team as a consultant leading the strategy and
commercialization efforts.
Over the past 12 months I’ve worked directly with Jim
and the Wyss Institute engineering team, along with an
industrial design firm to fine-tune the designs for both
insoles and shoes. The work has also included evolving
the electrical needs and identifying a small power
source (the biggest challenge), developing a strategy
for go-to-market, and initiating business development
pitches. We’ve made significant progress as a team.
The relevance of this technology in footwear and
even apparel becomes more exciting every day that
I’m involved with the project. By finding a way to
apply this noise stimulation to the body with wafer-thin inexpensive
actuators embedded in shoes and insoles, wearers could realize
numerous benefits including improved efficiency for performance
athletes with less variability in gait and stride length, improved
tactile sensation for diabetics to reduce the risk of ulcerations which
often lead to amputations, and a clinically proven improvement in
balance for both healthy wearers and the elderly who are at a much
higher risk of falls.
With a growing consumer base in Wellness and an expanded awareness
of the importance of footwear and insoles in the chain of health, the
timing seems ideal for a revolutionary technology like this. The next steps
involve business development opportunities to explore potential licensee
partners which I am leading. I’m thrilled to have the chance to help Jim
realize his dream of getting people moving. l
footwearinsight.com

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Transcription

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