Bottle Baby Fostering Orphaned Kittens Body Warmth

 Bottle Baby Fostering
Care of Orphaned Kittens Under 6 Weeks of Age
Orphaned Kittens
Newborn kittens are sometimes orphaned or abandoned by their mother. Success with raising these newborns
is based on following basic procedures and keeping important elements in mind.
Successful rearing of orphaned kittens requires providing them with a suitable environment, the correct
quantities of nutrients for different stages of growth, and a regular schedule of feeding, sleeping, grooming and
exercise. You must also provide the stimulus for urination and defecation during the first 18-21 days of life.
Body Warmth
You must maintain their body warmth, since kittens do not have the ability to regulate and control their body
temperature. Keep them out of drafts. Place a warmed Snuggle
Safe disk at the opening of the crate and cover it with several
layers of towels. Check on it frequently to ensure that it is not too
hot or too cold. Kittens should be able to get away from it if they
are too hot so make sure that there is a place in the box that is
not as hot as the rest of it - the back of the box most likely. Make
sure the heating pad is not the kind that turns itself off.
Although not as important in cats over 6 weeks, this is CRUCIAL to
babies! We cannot overemphasize the need for warmth in young
kittens.
If there is nothing else you can do or provide for a munchkin, THIS
IS IT! WARMTH.
Babies are used to their mom providing a nice 103 degree
environment for them, and we must duplicate this the best we can. In the bottle-baby section we will explore
this further.
Warmth also includes providing a non-drafty environment. For an older animal, all you need to do is make sure
it has a nice warm, cozy spot to retreat to. For younger pets (less than 4 months) the entire environment
should be draft-free and a refuge.
If a rescued kitten feels cold, warm it immediately but gently. Place it on a heating pad wrapped in towels and
on the lowest setting, or warm a hot water bottle to about 100 degrees (wrapped in a towel) and place it with
the kitten. DO NOT PUT A KITTEN DIRECTLY ON A HEATING PAD OR HOT BOTTLE! Kittens under 3 weeks can't
control their body temperature. Keep them on a heating pad; set on low, wrapped in towels (at least two layers
of towels, or one towel folded over) should cover the pad. You'll know if it's too hot if the kittens tend to sleep
on the edges. The heating pad should be used until the kittens are about 4-5 weeks old, or until you notice that
they're avoiding it. Your body heat is not sufficient to get or keep the kittens warm! Their mom's temp is 103F!
Kittens should be kept in a box or cat carrier in a warm, draft-free place, completely isolated from other
animals. Keep the container covered with a towel or blanket; a small towel or cloth inside the carrier will also
keep them cozy. Change the bedding of their "nest" daily, since kittens tend to have accidents! As they get
older, they will need more room to exercise, play, and explore.
Do not feed a kitten until it is warm, since it can't properly digest when cold. It is okay, though, to syringe feed a
few drops of 5% sugar water or to rub a little bit of Karo syrup on the kitten’s lips.
ISOLATION IS THE BEST POLICY
It’s important to keep newborn and young kittens physically separated from other cats for the
duration of the kittens’ stay. Newborn and young kittens are extremely vulnerable to illness.
While other cats may be vaccinated and thereby protected from various illnesses, they can still
carry and transmit illnesses they have been exposed to. A kitten's immune system is very, very
fragile! The 7-day isolation period is even more important for kittens than it is for cats. Why?
Imagine a child starting kindergarten. Everybody usually comes home with a cold of some sort.
The same holds that kittens will have been exposed to the county shelter.
DEVELOPMENT MILESTONES
Kittens weigh about 2 to 4 ounces at birth; they should double their body weight in the first
week. Eyes open at 7-10 days but will stay blue until they are about 6-7 weeks old, true eye
color won't settle in until the kitten's about 3 months old. At about 3 weeks, they will start
crawling around.
At 3 1/2 weeks, the ears will start to stand up. At 4 weeks, they'll start to play with each other
and develop teeth. Kittens start to gain weight rapidly around 4-5 weeks. By 6 weeks, they are
beginning to regulate their own body temperature.
WEIGHT GAIN
Kittens should gain about 1/2 ounce every day or 4 ounces per week. Weigh them at the same
time every day with a kitchen or small postal scale. It's a good idea to weigh them with every
meal. Lack of gain or weight loss beyond 24 hours is cause for alarm and it's time to begin
syringe feeding.
Their bellies should always be rotund— if you squeeze them between two fingers and slowly try
to bring the fingers together; you should NOT be able to do it! If the belly is hard refer to the
sections about parasites.
You can check to make sure a kitten is properly hydrated by pulling up the skin at the scruff of
the neck. If it bounces back nicely, hydration is good. If it doesn't bounce back, or goes back
down slowly, they will need to be seen by a member of the med team.
Kitten Weight Chart - Weigh Your Kittens Before AND After Every Feeding!
Age
Weight
At birth
3.0 to 3.7 oz. (90-110 grams)
2 weeks old
7.0 to 11.0 oz. (200-300 grams)
3-4 weeks old
1.7 to 15.0 oz. (350-450 grams)
5-7 weeks old
1 to 1.5 lbs. (450-700 grams)
8 weeks old
1.7 to 2 lbs. (800-900 grams
FEEDING
The change to KMR can cause tummy upset and dangerous vomiting or diarrhea so we introduce it at half
strength and taper up to full strength over eight feedings. The dilution rates are listed below.
+The first four feedings should be eight parts water to one part KMR powder.
+The next four feedings should be four parts water to one part KMR powder.
+Feeding nine until weaning is two parts water to one part KMR powder.
Any prepared KMR or gruel must be discarded after 24 hours. The nutritional value drops and can even make
the kitten ill.
Do not feed a kitten until it is warm, since it can't properly digest when cold. It is okay, though, to syringe feed a
few drops of 5% sugar water or to rub a little bit of Karo syrup on the kittens' lips.
Unfortunately, cow's milk is not nutritious enough for kittens - they will slowly starve to death on it. It also
causes diarrhea which is extremely dangerous for young kittens. Once a certain type of milk has been started
for a group of kittens, it MUST be continued until weaned. Changing formula brands can cause major Gl
distress. We typically feed KMR/GNC formula, or goat’s milk.
Test the temperature of the kitten milk replacement formula (KMR) before feeding. It should be warm, but not
hot: around 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Don't boil the KMR, since boiling will destroy the nutritional value. You
can warm the bottle by placing it in hot water for a few minutes or putting it in the microwave until it reaches
100 degrees Fahrenheit.
If constipation occurs, add 1 drop of mineral oil to each kitten's feeding no more than once daily until the
problem eases. Don't overfeed, since it can cause diarrhea and a host of other problems.
Feeding equipment needs to be cleaned before and between feedings. Ideally, this would be done by dipping
the equipment in boiling water. If we can’t do that, we need to wash each bottle and nipple with soapy water
until all milk residue is gone, dip in dilute bleach water (1 part Clorox to 30 parts water) or chlorahex solution,
then rinse in regular water. Ideally, all bottles would be dry before next use. You can also put the nipple, ring,
and and bottle in a cup of water and microwave until boiling. This also serves to make the nipple softer and
warmer.
Before each feeding, clean your hands with antibacterial sanitizer or soap and water.
You must disinfect after you're done with the kittens each time BEFORE handling other animals. This way, the
kittens will be protected against one another's germs. You can wear separate pairs of exam gloves for each
litter but clean your hands anyway!
Below are general guidelines for how much to feed and when to
feed. Not that the weight of a kitten is more important than the age
(see below).
Week of life
1st week
2nd week
3rd week
4th week
Amount to feed
3.7 cc's per ounce of body
weight
4.9 cc's per ounce of body
weight
5.7 cc's per ounce of body
weight
6.3 cc's per ounce of body
weight
As long as the kitten does not cry excessively, gains weight, and feels firm to the touch, the diet is meeting
his/her nutritional needs.
Don't forget to weigh your kittens with every meal!
A kitten should eat about 8 cc of formula per 30g of body weight per day. Nursing bottles and syringes are
marked with measurements so it's easy to keep track. Weigh the kittens daily to calculate the amount of
formula they need; a kitchen or small postal scale should be used. Keep in mind that the younger kittens are,
the more accustomed they are to staying "latched onto" a mom cat's nipple all the time, nursing small amounts
periodically. If you notice that your kittens are not eating enough in one feeding, increase the frequency of
feedings. Or go back to that kitten after the others have eaten to give him/her another chance to eat at that
feeding time.
Feedings should occur every 2 hours ideally for newborn kittens. If overnight feeding is not feasible, it is
important to count the cc's each kitten is getting during the day to make sure that it is the total that the kitten
should get per 24 hour period. For 1-2 week old kittens, 4 hours at night will probably be ok. For 3-4 week old
kittens, 6-7 hours overnight will probably be OK. Again, it is important that they are getting their total amount
during the 24 hour period, especially if there are longer breaks between their feedings.
Divide their needed daily intake by the number of daily feedings, and you'll know how much they should eat
each time. Kittens that are weak or recovering from a "crash" should get frequent smaller meals.
If caring for multiple litters, wear a smock or scrub top for each kitten cage that you put on each time you feed
that litter. When you move to the next litter, you can put it on top of the crate until the next feeding unless
soiled. Some viruses can live on clothing, and this can help prevent cross-contamination to and from other
kittens.
Kitten positioning for feeding is very important;
this is where the crucial surrogate-mom bonding
happens. Reclining a kitten while feeding can
cause the kitten to aspirate. This can lead to the
kitten "drowning". The kitten must be leaning
forward or flat on it's belly. Different people have
different "styles" of bottle-feeding. Kittens are
most comfortable in a position similar to the
position they'd be in if they were nursing from a
mom cat.
One position is simply to place the kitten on its
stomach on a towel or cloth on which it can cling;
it will "knead" its paws on instinct. You can also
sit cross-legged on the floor with the kitten inside
your legs, and let the kitten place its paws on
your leg as it nurses. Remember to keep a towel
on your lap for this— and use a fresh, clean towel between litters.
Open the mouth gently with the tip of your finger and slip the nipple in. Once your kitten gets the hang of it,
they will search out the nipple enthusiastically! You will feel a real "vacuum effect" when the kitten gets into
suckle mode. Watch for bubbles in the bottle during suckling and ears wiggling, this means the kitten is
suckling successfully! To keep air from getting into the kitten's stomach, hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle,
keeping a light pull on the bottle. You can try slightly loosening the bottle’s cap to allow for better suction, if the
kitten seems to be struggling. The hole in the nipple should be large enough to allow milk to drip slowly when
the bottle is held upside down.
Let the kitten nurse at its own pace. If she refuses to take the nipple
or won't suckle, try rubbing it vigorously on its forehead or stroking its
back. This replicates the activity of a mom cat's cleaning and can
effectively stimulate the kitten to nurse. Sometimes you will hear a
"clicking" noise which means the kitten's nursing instinct is in gear
and should be ready for the nipple. Sometimes a kitten is simply
picky; there are two kinds of nipples out there, one shorter and one
longer, so you might have to make sure they don't prefer one or the
other.
If a kitten still won’t nurse, try pottying him/her first to make them
more comfortable. Cupping the kitten’s head and/or shoulders in
your hand gently but firmly (mimicking the crowding of it’s siblings)
helps with some kittens.
If you're feeding multiple kittens, you'll have better luck with them
eating the required amount if you feed them each several times,
taking turns. Feed the first kitten until it stops nursing, feed the
second, etc. Then go back to the first and repeat this round-robin.
Usually after 2 or 3 nursing turns, a kitten has had enough for one
feeding.
Kittens that seem too weak to nurse can often be stimulated by
rubbing some Karo syrup on the lips. If a kitten still refuses to nurse,
and this happens beyond the first few "getting the hang of it" times, it
indicates illness. Please contact your Foster mentor or the Foster
Home Coordinator for advice on which medical professional to take
the kitten to.
If you see bubbles coming out of the nose or hear a gurgling the kitten has accidentally suck formula into the
lungs; if this happens, hold the kitten upside down until it stops choking. Alert the Medical Manager on duty at
the Adoption Center so it can be placed on antibiotics immediately.
When a kitten has had enough formula, it will usually get some bubbles around its mouth and its tummy will be
very rounded, almost pear-shaped. After feeding, you should burp the kitten just like
you'd burp a human baby; hold it upright against your shoulder and pat it on the back.
Do not over-feed kittens, since this can cause diarrhea and a host of other problems.
Kittens under four weeks will go happily to sleep after they're fed and full; older kittens
will want some serious play and cuddle time.
After each feeding session, you should give each kitten a full-body once over with a
barely damp warm washcloth, using short strokes like mom would use. This activity
keeps the kittens' fur clean, teaches them how to groom, and gives them the attention
and mothering that they crave. Do not bathe kittens under three weeks and if you
bathe kittens older than that, you must have warmed towels ready to dry them
completely. NEVER leave a kitten damp or wet.
Remember that changes in diet can quickly cause diarrhea, so keep an eye on your
kitten's stools. Consult our guide to stool and urine below. Diarrhea can be lifethreatening to a kitten if left untreated; usually, a dose of one or more types of
antibiotics prescribed by your vet will get them back on track. It is very common for
them to get sick the first week they are on formula.
It's natural for kittens to suckle on each other or on your fingers, even after they're finished eating. If kittens
are suckling on each other, apply "YUK" to the kitten. If this does not stop a persistent kitten, you may need to
separate them. It is a good idea to check each kitten’s genitals to ensure that the sucking activity is not
causing problems (redness, irritation, penis hanging out, etc.). Suckling on genitals can lead to the urethra
swelling shut and having to be surgically reopened. If any of this occurs, please contact the Medical Manager
immediately.
STIMULATION FOR URINATION AND DEFECATION
By nature, mom cats lick the "back end" of their babies to
stimulate the bowels and bladder on a regular basis. If you are
the babies' new mom cat, guess who gets this duty! After each
feeding, gently rub the kitten on its low abdomen, as well as the
genitals and rectum, with a warm moist cotton ball, toilet paper,
cotton pad, or alcohol and fragrance free baby wipe. Make sure
you rub only enough to get them to eliminate; overstimulation
will irritate the area. Keep an eye out for chafing and lingering
dirt. DO NOT let them get chilled.
Kittens should (and almost always will) urinate during each
stimulation. They should defecate at least once a day. One trick
is to slowly count to 60 while you're stimulating a kitten; at that
point, you'll know if they're done or if something's on its way out!
(Don’t panic if a young kitten doesn’t defecate the first day you
have them.)
When kittens get to be about three- four weeks old, they don't
usually need our help. Place a shallow pan for the litter box
nearby so kittens always have access. Use shredded newspaper
or non-clumping cat litter. The clumping properties will cause it to clump in tummies and respiratory passages.
WEANING
You will know that a kitten is ready for the
weaning process when it is (a) biting its nipple
often and forcefully, and (b) able to lick formula
from your finger.
The next step is to get the kitten to lap up
formula from a spoon. Once they've mastered
that, try putting it in a flat dish. Introduce the
kittens to solid food by offering warmed canned
food mixed into a thin gruel with a little bit of
water or KMR. Eventually, you can mix canned
kitten food with formula, gradually reducing the
amount of formula until they're eating just the
food. It is not uncommon for weight gain to slow
and minor, temporary diarrhea to occur during weaning.
Place the food in a shallow saucer. Some kittens will begin lapping right away, while others will prefer to lick
the gruel from your fingers. Allow them to do so and slowly lower your finger to the saucer. The kittens may bite
the edge of the plate or walk in the food. Sometimes it takes two or three meals or more before they really
catch on. If a kitten doesn't seem interested in the gruel at all, try gently opening the kitten's mouth and
rubbing a little of the food on his tongue or teeth. Be patient; the weaning process takes time. As the kittens
catch on, begin to thicken the gruel. Remember that as you thicken the gruel, you will need to make sure the
kittens always have access to fresh water in a low, spill-resistant bowl. Many
kittens are eating gruel well and not yet interested in a bowl of water. Other
kittens are so messy and boisterous you can't leave water in their cage
without them getting wet and chilled. Keep giving water in the wet food until
they are drinking sufficient water to stay hydrated.
Kittens will walk through their food & be quite messy. Make sure they are
cleaned and DRY before putting them in their cage. If kittens are messy
eaters, don't leave gruel or water in their cage. Being wet rapidly causes
body temperature to drop.
This is a good time to introduce the Royal Canin BabyCat (or Mother &
BabyCat) kibble. Kittens will chew on litter out of curiosity but they will
redirect this exploration to tasty kibble!
CLEANING
Kitten bedding must be changed daily, and sometimes more often. Wash dirty bedding with a cap full of bleach
and fragrance and dye free detergent to disinfect it. Kittens need exercise to promote muscular and circulatory
development. However, care should be taken in the first two weeks of life because their internal organs and
limbs are extremely fragile. Play with and handle them prior to feeding. At least twice a week, and more often if
possible, the babies need to be groomed with a soft, warm, moist cloth, wiping gently in imitation of the mom's
grooming style. DO NOT LEAVE A KITTEN UNTIL IT IS COMPLETELY DRY!
After each feeding session, you should also give them a full-body once-over with a barely damp
washcloth, using short strokes like a mom cat would use. This keeps their fur clean, teaches them how to
groom, and gives them the attention and "mothering" they crave. Kittens will often get very dirty and muckedup in between cleanings; it's okay to wash a kitten with warm water under a sink faucet, but try to focus only on
the areas where they need it. A simple "butt-bath" will usually do the trick. Never bathe a kitten under three
weeks this way. Your body heat is not enough to warm up a cold kitten - you need to use towels/blankets and
heating pads set on low. Again, please DO NOT LEAVE A KITTEN UNTIL IT IS COMPLETELY DRY!
PARASITE CONTROL
You should check your kittens’ ears regularly for dirt and, especially after initial rescue, ear mites. Dirt can be
cleaned gently with a cotton ball or swab; consult the medical team if you find the telltale ear mite "coffeeground" type dirt. If you find fleas or flea dirt on kittens of any age, let the medical team know. They will get
them treated with Revolution or Frontline at a safe dose. Some kittens are so infested they need Capstar orally
to kill the fleas within 30 minutes. Young kittens can easily get anemia from flea infestation and really
endanger its life. First, use a flea comb to remove as much of the dirt and fleas from the fur as you can. After
they have been treated and the fleas are dead (30 minutes with Capstar, 24 hours with Frontline/Revolution),
give the kitten a bath in gentle soap and warm water. Again, only let them get wet for a few seconds then warm
them up ASAP.
Make sure water temperature is warm (but not hot) so as not to chill the kitten. Dry the kitten, with a towel then
place in dry warm towels on heating pad on low. Cover with fleece to trap heat in "nest".
DO NOT LEAVE A KITTEN UNTIL IT IS COMPLETELY DRY!
Medical Guide
If the kitty does any of these things, even once, you should be concerned. In most instances, it will be nothing,
but again we always want to be on the safe side because kittens at this age don't give much warning before
they start to crash.
+Sneezing: watch closely unless severe then call medical team
+Coughing: watch closely unless severe then call medical team
+Wheezing: watch closely unless severe then call medical team
+Tires easily: watch closely
+Diarrhea: URGENT
+Straining to urinate or defecate: stimulate, consult medical team if not productive
+Bleeding from any part of the body
+Abnormal twitches: URGENT
+Loss or decrease of appetite: URGENT
+Change in attitude or behavior: watch closely
+Lethargic or depressed: URGENT
+Breathing heavily: URGENT
+Head slumped in food/water bowl: wake it up, if can't URGENT
+Behavior that is unusual compared to normal behaviors: call medical team
Because many of the kittens are rescued from shelter environments, it is very difficult for Brother Wolf Animal
Rescue to ensure that they will always be healthy. A cat or kitten that appears healthy at the time of rescue
could easily begin to show signs of illness several days later. It can take up to 7 days for signs of upper
respiratory infection (URI) to develop.
Please keep your foster kitten(s) away from any other foster animals and from your own animals, and provide
separate food bowls, water bowls, and litter boxes.
Common Illnesses in Cats
The following information is intended to help you better understand and recognize some of the more
common illnesses in cats.
UPPER RESPIRATORY INFECTION (URI)
The term "upper respiratory infection" is used to refer
to any illness that affects a cat's upper respiratory
system. URIs are very common in cats. Some of the
more serious URIs (for which there are vaccines) are
listed separately in this section. Following is
information that applies to all upper respiratory
infections.
Signs & Symptoms: Sneezing, runny nose and eyes,
fever, anorexia
Treatment: Veterinary care, including antibiotics for
bacterial infection, and supportive care
Transmission: Very contagious to other cats through direct contact with bowls, bottles, and hands.
CONJUNCTIVITIS (USUALLY AN EARLY INDICATOR OF A URI)
If the eye is crusted shut or pus filled, use a warm most cotton ball or soft towel to soak the area. Never pick at
crust or force an eye open. There is a potential to further injure tissues this way. As always make sure the med
team alerted. *Neonatal kittens can be mistaken for being too young to have their eyes open, when in fact
infection is the culprit. See notes above about how to determine age of kittens if you think this might be the
case.
Signs & Symptoms: Watery eyes, white, yellow or green discharge. Black crust can be dried blood.
Eyelids and third eyelid are red, swollen and raised.
Treatment: Veterinary care, including antibiotics and ointment, and supportive care
Transmission: Very contagious to other cats through direct contact of bowls, bottles, hands.
EAR MITES
Ear mites are tiny parasites that live in the ear canal.
Signs & Symptoms: Itching, scratching, head-shaking, dark
brown discharge in the ears - often looks like dirt
Treatment: Veterinary care including an injection or ear meds
Transmission: Contagious to other cats and dogs, usually
requires direct contact with the infected animal
RINGWORM
Ringworm is a fungus related to athlete's foot, not actually a
worm.
Signs & Symptoms: Irregularly shaped areas of fur loss; the skin
in these areas will usually appear rough and scaly and often the
bald patch is round
Treatment: Veterinary care, including dips and/or oral
medications; ringworm can be self-limiting in healthy animals
Transmission: Contagious to other cats, dogs, and people, but
usually requires close contact with the infected animal or its
bedding
ROUND, TAPE, AND HOOK WORMS
Worms affect a cat's digestive system. They are most commonly seen in kittens and young cats. Worms are
very common in kittens, but luckily are easily treated.
Signs & Symptoms: Large hard belly, diarrhea, an inability to gain weight but with a voracious appetite
Treatment: Veterinary care, including de-worming medication
Transmission: Contagious to other cats and dogs, but only through contact with (and subsequent ingestion of)
feces.
FLEAS
Fleas are tiny insects that feed on the blood of cats, dogs, humans, and
other animals. Although each flea only consumes a small drop of blood,
fleas usually attack in large numbers.
Signs & Symptoms: Intense itching and scratching, hair loss or
"barbering"
Treatment: Veterinary care including medications and topical treatment. If
the fleas are very bad, bathing may be required.
Transmission: Contagious to other cats, dogs, and people
PANLEUKOPENIA (FELINE DISTEMPER)
Panleukopenia (sometimes called feline distemper) is a viral infection that most commonly affects kittens and
young cats. Left untreated, panleukopenia is almost always fatal. Even with intensive treatment, the majority of
cats showing signs of panleukopenia will die.
Unfortunately, this illness can be frustrating to deal with because the
virus can survive in the environment for up to a year. This means that
other unvaccinated cats can become infected with panleukopenia
simply by coming into contact with places where an infected cat has
been. A bleach solution is the best way to disinfect areas that may
have been contaminated. The vaccine for panleukopenia (part of the
FVRCP combo vaccine) is considered extremely effective.
Signs & Symptoms: Fever, diarrhea, lethargy, vomiting, loss of appetite
Treatment: Veterinary care, including fluid therapy and antibiotics
Transmission: Very contagious to unvaccinated cats, especially through contact with infected feces or vomit
but also bowls, hands, clothes, etc.
COCCIDIA AND GIARDIA
Coccidia and Giardia are very common. They are protozoa that can invade a
kitten’s digestive system and cause diarrhea. These are contagious and can
be spread through feces.
Signs & Symptoms: Diarrhea perhaps mucous or blood tinged and
sometimes consistency of water; often has a strong odor
Treatment: Veterinary care, including antibiotics
Transmission: Ingestion of feces from an infected dog or cat or the ingestion
of a rodent. Mothers can pass this to their kittens.
The Scoop on Poop
Below is a guide to the color and consistency of kittens' feces. Pay attention to this whenever the kitten does
'their business', it can be a warning sign of serious health problems.
Fecal Color:
Brown
Bloody
Mucous
Black
Orange
Yellow
White
Normal Color. Be Happy!
Actual red blood seen in stool.
Yellowish/white/clear slimy substance. Can be seen when straining is
occurring or excessive diarrhea.
True dark black color to stool. Usually indicates bleeding in high bowel.
Usually indicates way to much bile in stool, can occur with reflux.
Almost always indicates bacterial imbalance in the bowel. If has
diarrhea also, usually related to coccidian.
Grossly abnormal color. Usually indicates severe bacterial imbalance
and severe infection in the bowel.
Fecal Consistency:
Firm
Formed but soft
‘Toothpaste’
‘Cow patty’
Liquidy
‘The Squirts’
Normal Consistency. Be happy!
Low range of “normal”. If stools change from firm to soft you should
seek medical advice.
Still has somewhat tubular form but falls apart once touched. Watch
closely because could turn into diarrhea.
Never formed but thick enough that it falls in a ‘cow patty’ shape
Just fluid that falls out of rectum, thin and may have mucous.
Animal has no control over bowel and watery fluid squirts out of rectum.
For any poop that is "not OK", please contact the medical team immediately. All diarrhea is bad in a bottle baby
kitten!
OVERVIEW OF HYDRATION
Okay, this sounds intimidating, but it’s not.
Hydration is basically how much water we have
in our system. Since water drives all of our
metabolic functions, you can see why adequate
hydration is essential.
Checking hydration is a lot simpler than trying
to spell it. If you pull up on your own skin, you
will see the skin snaps right back down. This is
called “skin turgor” (how well it snaps back). A
well hydrated animal will have quick skin
turgor.
Below is a guide to checking kitten’s skin turgor and their urine color, to ensure proper hydration.
Immediate snap back
Quick snap but not immediate
Snap back within one second
Within 1-3 seconds
Stands up on own
Excellent hydration. Watch however at this stage for
over-hydration.
Hydrated. Monitor other signs to be sure the kitten
is overall (full –body) hydrated.
Adequate hydration. However if ANY other signs, this
animal is at risk and needs constant care
Dehydrated. Needs immediate attention. Call
medical team ASAP
Call vet team immediately
BWAR will provide training on how to give subcutaneous fluids (fluids injected under the skin) to all foster
homes with bottle babies.
Pedialyte given orally to a kitten won’t cause any harm, but offers no real benefit to a truly dehydrated kitten.
Pedialyte can be mixed with the kitten’s KMR to add electrolytes back to the kitten’s system, but is not usually
necessary. Pedialyte should be thrown out if not used within 3 days, or frozen in cubes in an airtight bag.
Urine Color:
Light yellow
Yellow
Intense Yellow
Dark yellow/almost brown
Red/ Dark Orange
Mildly dilute urine. Overall body hydration should be
adequate if no kidney disease. With sick/injured or
at-risk animals, this is the color we shoot for.
Mildly concentrated urine. Monitor closely and if
ANY other signs of dehydration, seek care
immediately.
Concentrated urine. Animal is not getting enough
fluid for total body hydration.
Extreme dehydration or bilirubin in urine. Call
medical team, the kitten may need fluids.
Call medical team immediately!
Medication Schedule
The BWAR veterinary/medical team prescribes any needed medications and decides doses. The med sheet
attached to the kitten’s chart will tell you what to give and when. We will provide you a take home copy.
Pay close attention to dose and method of administering. Oral and eye meds can have similar names but it's
important to use it correctly.
Different kittens in the same litter may be getting different doses, sometimes one is much larger or smaller
than the others.
Always finish the medications as prescribed and make notes in the chart and log book about symptoms you
continue to see.
Notes
FADING KITTEN SYNDROME
Fading Kitten Syndrome is a life threatening emergency in which a kitten, sometimes one that was previously
healthy, "crashes" and begins to fade away. If not dealt with by a foster parent immediately, it can result in
death. If you are caring for kittens 12 weeks or younger, it is a very good idea to familiarize yourself with this
handout so you know what to do if it happens.
It is caused by 2 things: Hypothermia (being too cold) and hypoglycemia (not enough blood sugar). You must
combat both of these things or the kitten will die.
Symptoms:
Low Body Temperature - the kitten feels cool or cold to the touch
Extreme Lethargy - not getting up, unable to stand, not responding when pet
Gasping for breath
Meowing/Crying out
When this happens, it is vital that you take these immediate steps!
Step 1- Get them warm:
Create the "burrito" towel. Immediately wrap the kitten up in
a towel like a burrito leaving their face exposed only. Their
whole body, tail, ears, and paws should be in the towel, only
nose and mouth exposed. Do not take the kitten out of the
towel to adjust them, check on them, etc. - this is very
important! Every time you take them out you will make
them cold again, even if it is only for a second.
You must apply an extra source of heat. The kitten's body
can't warm itself up with just a towel alone, you have to
apply extra heat. Also, your body temperature is much lower
than what a kitten should be, so trying to warm them up
with your body heat won't work either.
Then wrap a heating pad turned onto *low* around the
towel - duct tape it or secure it around the towel so it stays
wrapped around them. Don't let the heating pad touch
them directly as it can cause burns. Make sure the 'burrito'
towel is between their skin and the heating pad.
Step 2- Get their blood sugar up:
Once you get the heat on them, get a bowl or Tupperware and a few tablespoons sugar in hot water. Stir it up
so you get a sugar water solution- you do want it to be as strong as possible while still being runny. Using a
syringe or your finger give 3 drops every 3 minutes into the mouth. If they aren't swallowing, try not to get it
down the throat, try to get it on the tongue or gums. Set an egg timer or use the stop watch on your cell phone
to make sure you are doing it at least every 3 minutes. Every 5 minutes or 10 minutes will not work, it must be
every 3 minutes.
Step 3 - Call BWAR medical team:
Call the emergency medical technician's phone number. (We will provide you with an emergency number when
you take your kittens into foster. We rotate on an on-call basis.) Don't leave your kitten to make this call or
forget to do your sugar every 3 minutes. They won't have any extra advice for you that isn't in this handout, but
they will need to be made aware of what is going on. If you believe a kitten has passed, please visit a member
of the medical team for them to confirm.
In the sad event that a kitten does pass, you have the option of bringing the kitten to the Adoption Center for
us to deliver to Best Friends Crematory, or you can bury the kitten on your own property.
Prognosis:
It can sometimes take hours for them to come out of it and start acting normally again. Once they do come out
of it, make sure you alert the med team to discuss what could have possibly caused them to fade in the first
place and make sure we have the kitten on all the right medical treatments for any illnesses they have that
may have caused it.
Keep in mind, even with all the love and attention and perfect treatment of this condition, some of them still
won't make it. Try not to blame yourself during this difficult time and focus on all the kittens you have
personally saved by opening your heart to these kittens. Any kitten you’ve ever fed was given a second chance
at life BECAUSE of YOU!