children of the sea

Transcription

children of the sea

B Y
C O C O
C O L L E C T I O n
CHILDREN
OF THE SEA
COCO FAMILY
MAROONED IN THE MALDIVES
SAIL & SEA
THE MELTING POT
Sept 2015 Issue 001
www.cococollection.com
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BREEZE BY COCO COLLECTION
SEPTEMBER 2015
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O N T H E C OV E R
B Y
C O C O
C O L L E C T I O n
CHILDREN
OF THE SEA
COCO FAMILY
MAROONED IN THE MALDIVES
SAIL & SEA
THE MELTING POT
Breeze is the latest offering from
Coco Collection, the trailblazing
Maldivian hospitality brand.
Readers will now be able to
glimpse the Maldivian way of
life and environment through its
quarterly editions.
On the shores of Coco Bodu Hithi,
Raudha Athif models a modern
take on the traditional Maldivian
dress, the Dhivehi libaas. Often
bright red, these dresses showcase
intricate Maldivian embroidery
techniques that have been passed
down through the generations for
centuries.
Sept 2015 Issue 001
12 Marooned in the Maldives
HISTORY PAGES
In a country with such little written history, François
Pyrard’s account of his time amongst these islands in
the early 17th century is a priceless insight into the
customs of a bygone Maldives.
38 Turtle Power
MARINE BIOLOGY
The Coco Collection islands are deeply invested in
the ocean and with marine biologist Chiara Fumagalli
spearheading the in-house conservation projects,
local turtles are finding refuge and protection.
46 The Melting Pot
CUISINE
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The Maldives has maintained trade routes with its
spice-rich overseas neighbours for centuries. The
result? A distinct local cuisine that has combined
cooking know-how from across the region.
60 Fusing body and mind
WELLNESS
Nashiu Zahir visits Coco Spa to discover that a Coco
massage is a true work of art.
Children of the Sea
18 A Journey to Goidhoo
Feature
Though land is scarce, the sea is
vast and thus, Maldivians have
adapted themselves to the sea.
They have built their lives and
earned their livelihood in and
around the ocean.
ISLAND CULTURE
20 About Town
MALE’ GUIDE
42 Trees of the Maldives
FLORA & FAUNA
50 Coco Cook Up!
COCO RECIPES
52 Take the Plunge
UNDERWATER FEATURE
62 Beach Beauty
FASHION TIPS
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SEPTEMBER 2015
64 Travel to Transform
HEALTH
66 Skincare Laid Bare
WELLNESS
68 Cinema Paradiso
EXPERIENCE
70 Meet the Family
COCO FAMILY
72 Island Vibes
REVIEW
74 The Low Down
MALDIVES FACTS
INSID E T H IS ISSU E
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Moving Mountains
Sail & Sea
Dyeing Arts
NATURE & GEOLOGY
DESIGN & INSPIRATION
ARTS & CULTURE
Being the lowest-lying country in
the world, one might not assume
that the Maldives was built upon
mountains. Yet, millions of years
ago, the growth and decline of
a submerged volcanic ridge laid
the foundations for an oceanic
nation.
As ancient as civilisation itself,
boat building is at the core of
Maldivian culture. Mariyam
Athiza Athif delves into the
world of the Maldivian dhoni.
Traditional handicrafts are at
peril of vanishing across the
globe. Yet in a far-flung corner
of the Maldives, Aminath Ishrath
meets a woman determined to
keep the art of Maldivian dyeing
and weaving alive.
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BY COCO COLLECTIOn
September 2015 / Issue #001
Editorial
Editor Adele Verdier-Ali
Contributing Editor Mariyam Athiza Athif
[email protected]
FEATURE WRITERS
Nashiu Zahir
Fathimath Lamya Abdulla
Ayesha Naseem
Noona Hussein
Aminath Ishrath
Art direction / Illustrations Eagan Badeeu
Layout design Ali Imran Mohamed
ADVERTISING
Mash-hood Abdulla, [email protected]
Navaal Rasheed, [email protected]
CLIENT RELATIONS
Aminath Ali, [email protected]
COCO COLLECTION
Director of Marketing Shafa Shabeer
Senior Marketing Executive Lulu Aishath
Marketing & PR Executive Aminath Ishrath
Marketing & PR Executive Mariyam Narmeen
[email protected]
PHOTOGRAPHY
Fashionstock, Hussain Shaz, Shaahina Ali,
Shutterstock, UNDP, Yassin Hameed/F8PRO
COVER PHOTO
Photographed by Azzu (Double Dot)
Model Raudha Athif
Breeze by Coco Collection is produced for Sunland Hotels &
Resorts by Perspective Pvt Ltd, Emerald Building 3rd Floor,
Koli Umar Maniku Goalhi, Male’, Republic of Maldives.
[email protected], www.perspective.mv
© Coco Collection, 2015.
Printed by Novelty Printers and Publishers Pvt Ltd, Maldives
New Beginnings
Creating something new is always a journey, a time for
exploration and adventure. It is this precious sense of
discovery that has shaped the contents of the first edition
of Breeze by Coco Collection. Our hope was to capture in
its pages that feeling that only travel brings – the freshness
and excitement of arriving somewhere new and beginning to
explore. As you delve into the rich stories, travelogues and
reviews that are to come, my hope is that for just a moment,
you can get lost in Maldivian wanderlust.
Whether the Maldives is your second home, whether you’ve
just stepped foot on its shores or whether you’re simply
dreaming of its coral reefs, Breeze has something for everyone.
In this issue, historical tales of shipwrecked sailors sit next to
underwater adventures. You’ll find first-hand accounts of
exploring local islands next to reports on traditional cuisine.
And of course, at the heart of the magazine are the Coco
Collection resorts themselves. As such, reviews, interviews and
island news abound in this issue, inspired by the curated and
spontaneous experiences to be found on all Coco properties.
Together, these articles combine to paint a picture of the
true Maldives – a place where history is part of the present
moment and where luxury can be found amongst the simplest
pleasures.
After all, this is a land where stories have travelled the same
way for millennia; with the whispers on the Breeze.
We would love to hear about your own Coco moments,
so do please get in touch and share your thoughts and
memories of these beautiful islands with us by emailing
us at [email protected]
Adele Verdier-Ali
Editor
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SEPTEMBER 2015
Looking back, looking ahead
Welcome to the very first issue of Breeze by Coco Collection.
I’m very excited to share this new publication with you and I
hope you’ll enjoy immersing yourself in its pages as much as
I did.
With the launch of this creative magazine, Coco Collection is
once again distinguishing itself as one of the trailblazers of
Maldivian hospitality. This publication coincides with the ten
year anniversary of the brand and reflects how far we’ve come.
When we launched Coco Collection in 2005, we were driven by
a passion to provide our guests with holidays that were stylish,
sophisticated and sustainable. Ten years later, that passion is
still what drives us today. Having that at our foundation has
ensured that as the company continues to grow and mature, we
never lose sight of our Maldivian roots. Our people, traditions
and precious ecosystems are at the heart of Coco Collection,
and are a big part of what makes our resorts so individual and
inspiring.
This homegrown style of hospitality is evident throughout our
three islands; Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, Coco Bodu Hithi and
Coco Privé Kuda Hithi. At Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, the spirit of
the Maldivian wild dominates. Although a stylish destination,
the resort has captured the feeling of being in harmony
with nature, which is in no small part due to our extensive
conservation programmes. At Coco Bodu Hithi, the architecture
and design are inspired by a blend of traditional and
contemporary concepts, providing an intimate experience
for guests to savour. Coco Privé Kuda Hithi, our ultra-private
retreat for those wishing to have an entire island just for
themselves, transcends sophistication and is the jewel in the
crown of Coco Collection.
While all three properties offer something distinct, they share
a core that is uniquely Coco. By doing so, as a brand we have
remained at the forefront of Maldivian luxury.
We are delighted that our efforts are being repeatedly
recognised on the global hospitality stage. At the 2014 World
Luxury Hotel Awards, Coco Collection was named the Indian
Ocean’s Luxury Hotel Brand and Coco Privé Kuda Hithi was
named Global Winner for Luxury Private Island Resort. Coco
Collection was also awarded Indian Ocean’s Leading Boutique
Hotel Brand at the 2015 World Travel Awards.
I hope that you will share in our journey as the portfolio of
Coco Collection continues to innovate and develop. And for
now, I wish you happy reading and safe travels!
Shabeer Ahmed
Chairman and Managing Director,
Sunland Hotels & Coco Collection
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SEPTEMBER 2015
NAT U R E & G E O LO G Y
MOVING
MOUNTAINS
How the last remaining traces of prehistoric ocean
volcanoes formed the world’s flattest nation
WO R D S FATH I MATH LAMYA A BDU LLA , P H OTO S S H A A H I N A A L I
Being the lowest-lying country in the world,
one might not assume that the Maldives was
built upon mountains. Yet, millions of years
ago, the growth and decline of a submerged
volcanic ridge laid the foundations for an
oceanic nation.
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NAT U R E & G E O LO G Y
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he Maldivian archipelago, mostly
celebrated for its white sandy
beaches, colourful reefs and
beautiful lagoons, was once just a
volcanic mountain range that was
the end result of a geological “traffic
accident” between Africa and Asia during
the Cretaceous Period, during which time
the continents were on the move. Maldives
is atop a long underwater mountain range
of volcanoes (2000 km) known as the
Laccadives-Chagos Ridge rising out of the
Indian Ocean. It is from this volcanic range
that the 26 atolls of Maldives were formed,
over the course of millions of years.
The word ‘atoll’ is derived from the
Dhivehi word ’atholhu‘, and is the only
English word derived from the native
Maldivian language.
The formation of atolls is a long process
that may take up to as long as 30,000,000
years. It begins with underwater
volcanoes, called seamounts. When these
volcanoes erupt, lava gets piled on the
seafloor and the seamount’s elevation
keeps on increasing until the top of the
volcano breaks the surface of the water
and becomes an oceanic island. Small sea
animals called corals settle around the
oceanic island. The type of corals that build
reefs are known as hermatypic corals, or
hard corals. They create a hard exoskeleton
of limestone around the volcanic island.
Billions of these limestone exoskeletons
make up the fringing reef that surrounds
the island just below the ocean surface.
This is a process that happens over 10,000
years.
Over the following millions of years,
the volcanic island erodes and sinks to
the seafloor as a result of the constant
pounding of powerful ocean waves onto
the island. This is a process called
subsidence. As the seamount erodes into
the sea, its top is made flat and this
flat-topped seamount is called a guyot.
As the island subsides, the fringing reef
becomes a barrier reef, which is further
from the shore and has a deeper lagoon.
The barrier reef protects the lagoon from
harsh winds and waves of the ocean.
The subsidence brings slight differences
to the ocean chemistry that affects the
reef dramatically. The outer ocean-facing
side of the reef become a healthy marine
ecosystem while the corals on the inner
side slowly decay. This changes the colour
of the ocean from deep ocean blue to
bright teal.
In the final stage, the ocean waves break
apart pieces of the limestone reef, and
erode the coral into tiny grains of sand.
This material, along with other organic
matter deposited by the waves, gets piled
up on the reef forming a ring-shaped island
or islets, the latter being the form of atolls
prevalent in Maldives.
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Marooned
in the Maldives
The life and times of François Pyrard
WO R D S MARIYAM ATH I ZA ATH I F, ILLUSTRATION S EAGA N B A D E E U
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SEPTEMBER 2015
H ISTO R Y PAG E S
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Based on an extract from ‘The voyage of François Pyrard De Laval to the East
Indies, the Maldives, the Moluccas, and Brazil’ as it appears in Hakluyus Posthumus
or, Purchas and his Pilgrimage, Vol XI, pages 503-570.
Published by Asian Educational Services, New Delhi, India.
In a country with such little written
history, François Pyrard’s account of
his time amongst these islands in the
early 17th century is a priceless insight
into the customs of a bygone Maldives.
T
enduring a famine. The inhabitants
barely offered them any food, and
Pyrard was left to eat the shrubs and dead
fishes that he found near the shore. Later on,
the inhabitants allowed Pyrard and company to
work. Pyrard accompanied the islanders on fishing and
coconut collection expeditions and in return he was given a
portion of the assemblage. It was during this time that Pyrard
learnt to speak the native language, a move that significantly
eased his hardships by resulting in him being presented to the
king who provided lodgings for Pyrard in Male’, and allowed
him a unique access to observe the daily lives and customs of
the island inhabitants.
Although Pyrard’s time in the Maldives was somewhat
adverse and uncertain, his greatest apprehensions seem
to have been about the sea. He makes some geographical
observations, writes about the monsoons and the heat, but
at length speaks of the force and currents of the sea. He
describes the surge as being greater than a house and as white
as cotton, and compares it to a very white wall. Pyrard seems
to marvel at the ease at which the natives navigated their
his slim hardcover volume encompassing
French navigator François Pyrard De Laval’s
personal account of his time in Maldives is
a vivid image of the country’s past. It depicts
a picture of an island kingdom rich with
feasts, customs, and celebrations. It invokes images of
primeval islands of lush vegetation fortified by coral
reefs and strong seas. It describes olive skinned island
inhabitants, industrious and marvellously adapted to
their surroundings.
The adventurous tale begins with a brief account of Pyrard’s
travels leading up to the shipwreck that left him and a few of
his fellow sailors near the island of ”Pouladou” in the ”Atollon
of Malos Madou” on July 2nd 1602.
His first encounter with the inhabitants was somewhat
hostile. The inhabitants didn’t allow him and his companions
to come ashore until they were disarmed, and although they
were taken to a house in the middle of the island and given
some food, all of their possessions were seized on the premise
that they now belonged to the king. Afterwards, Pyrard and
his companions were taken to “Paindoue”, an island that was
Corbin
Innafushi
The Corbin was shipwrecked on 2nd July 1602.
Fulhadhoo
Fehendhoo
Goidhoo
Maafushi
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SEPTEMBER 2015
Fenfushi
Goidhoo Atoll
H ISTO R Y PAG E S
Pyrard and his crew meeting the island chief
boats within the channels and narrow lagoons that surrounded
the atolls and islands. To him these appeared dangerous and
perilous.
Pyrard also found these expert navigators, who he describes
as half-fishes with no fear of the sea, to be graceful, wellshaped and proportioned. He depicts images of olive skinned
women with long black hair and armed men walking about with
knives in their girdles, all adorned with heavy silver bracelets
and layers of gold necklaces, clothed in cotton, silk and taffeta.
He describes their hair ceremonies, bathing rituals and other
grooming rites, all deeply rooted in superstitions.
The natives are described as scrupulous and superstitious
in all their actions. If they have
slept, he writes, they would not
meet anyone unless they’ve
washed their face and eyes,
rubbed them with oil and put
on a “blackness” upon their
eyelids and brows. When
they left for a voyage it was
important for them to not touch
anyone since if something
disastrous happened they
would attribute the calamity to
the person who touched them.
When the sun set on Thursdays,
they would not allow anything
to be removed from their
houses until three or four
o’clock in the afternoon the
next day. The passage goes on
to explain that every island has
a place called “Siare” where they make daily offerings of little
boats and ships full of perfumes and flowers to the “King of
the Winds” and similar rituals were conducted for the “King of
the Sea”.
These superstitious customs, which appear to have
immensely captured Pyrard’s imagination also seem to have
been intricately woven into the traditions of Islam. Pyrard
noted how the locals all prayed five times a day, men at
mosques and women in their homes, and every year they
fasted during the month of Ramadan, a feat that started with
banquets, dances and merriments at the appearance of the
new moon and ended with the same splendour with the
festivities of the Eid. According to Pyrard, these inhabitants
celebrated feasts throughout the year. Fridays were feast
days, a feat announced by a group of men with their bells and
trumpets, and every new moon was rejoiced with banquets and
merrymaking.
The king at the time was Sultan Ibrahim dolos assa raltera
Atholon which meant Sultan Ibrahim, King of thirteen provinces
and twelve thousand Iles. According to Pyrard, the king was
feared and revered by all. But he was also curious in nature
and had a desire to learn. Wanting to learn about the customs
of the French was the reason
why the king provided Pyrard
with lodgings near his palace.
Pyrard describes a palace
built of stone enclosed in
a garden where there were
fountains and cisterns of
water. It had many mansions
and two great halls, and was
adorned by rich curtains,
tapestries of silk enriched
with gold, and finely woven
mats that were made in the
islands. Being placed near
the palace, Pyrard was able to
make many close observations regarding the daily lives
of the king and his queens.
He writes about the different
ranks of people and their
customs and provides insights into the government and its
legal system.
Pyrard’s adventures in the Maldives ended when he took
the opportunity to escape from Male’ during a Bengali raid.
This book, which covers tales from the entire five years of
his stay in Maldives, contains some surprises even for the
Maldivian reader. It puts an aura of magic and mystery over the
Maldivian past and provides insights into an almost vanished
culture that’s left behind only a smidgen of its essence.
“Pyrard also found
these expert navigators,
who he describes as
half-fishes with no fear
of the sea, to be graceful,
well-shaped and
proportioned.”
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SEPTEMBER 2015
H ISTO R Y PAG E S
“Pyrard seems to marvel at the ease at which the
natives navigated their boats within the channels and
narrow lagoons that surrounded the atolls and islands.
To him, these appeared dangerous and perilous.”
A map depicting Pyrard’s journey from Europe
to the Indian Ocean.
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SEPTEMBER 2015
ISLA ND C U LT U R E
A Journey to Goidhoo
Retracing Pyrard’s steps
WO RDS N AS H IU ZAH IR , PHOTOS U N DP
Goidhoo is where Pyrard first set foot in the Maldives. With rumours
still circulating of sunken treasures below the reef, it is a place of
history and legend. Nashiu Zahir follows in the French castaway’s
footsteps for an afternoon, and finds a warm welcome in an island
little changed for centuries.
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rriving at Goidhoo, a half-hour speedboat
ride from Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, I spot a
large banyan tree; underneath which are
jolis, comfortable mesh seats made from
ropes. A welcome oasis of shade; the day
is relentlessly hot and it is not even noon. I sit with my
island guide Mohamed on the joli to cool off and talk.
Mohamed, who works at Dhuni Kolhu, has family here.
“This was a fishing community before,” Mohamed
says. “There was a good fleet of fishing boats but it’s all
gone now. People have moved on to other things.”
He makes a call to arrange a motorbike for us. I take a
look at the surroundings. There is a cluster of buildings
close to the harbour, a café of sorts where a few men sit
over cups of tea or coffee. It is quiet, the island’s 700
people obviously do not make much in the way of noise.
A haruge, a local hut where people congregate, sits close
to the harbour, awash in yellow paint and covered with
political slogans.
Mohamed gets a bike and tells me we have to see
his father, who was once deputy island chief or kuda
katheeb. We speed over to his house through empty
streets dotted with quaint single storey houses with
coral boundary walls that enclose little gardens with
papaya or breadfruit trees. A brightly painted shop or
two stand out from among the rest of the buildings.
Going through these streets I feel as though I have
stepped behind a veil into an older era, a simpler life.
We stop in front of a female-only mosque, which you
frequently find on the islands unlike in the capital city,
Male. His parents’ house is just opposite the mosque. I
venture in and am welcomed with warm hospitality by
Mohamed’s mother, who motions me to take a seat in
a joli. Little children play nearby. Fresh mango juice
is offered. I sip from my drink and before I am done,
Mohamed’s elderly father Abdul Rahim enters the house.
We have a chat about the island, its history, people,
their occupations. This island of 700 has an interesting
past, I learn. “Former President Nasir banished a number
of people from the Thinadhoo secession movement
here,” he says. “At one point there were more banished
people here than our island folk.” This happened in the
early 60s and disrupted the quiet, everyday life of the
native islanders. Theft and small crimes were common at
the time, Abdurrahim recalls.
Goidhoo is also historically significant because of
the wreck of the French navigator Pyrard’s Corbin, which
lies in proximity to the island. But neither Mohamed nor
Abdurrahim are able to tell me much about it, although
the latter reveals that the wreck can still be seen some
twelve miles from the island. Abdurrahim then mentions
a historical site we could visit; a mosque that was built
around 1930 AD.
Mohamed takes me to the mosque; it is not very
large, its sandy compound is inhabited by a well, a
few plants, a temple flower tree, and the mosque itself.
The compound is surrounded by thick foliage and is
adjacent to a small graveyard. He tells me that the
mosque has been abandoned for a couple of years. It
looks unkempt, signs of decay are apparent, peeling
paint, torn carpets and mould on the walls. The place
commands a morbid sort of fascination and that line
from Shelley’s Ozymandias comes to my mind: Look on
my works ye mighty, and despair.
We roam around the island again, on the motorbike,
exploring its winding paths with great thickets of trees
on either side; breadfruit, banyan, screwpine, a slew of
others too many to name. There is such a profusion of
gorgeous greenery, it’s the epitome of the term ‘tropical
paradise’. We stop by a clearing to snap pictures of
an especially large banyan tree; it is an old soul, an
enormous trunk, a giant leafy canopy overhead. A good
place to camp, I think.
We come out of the woods and stop by some fields in
which pumpkins, butternut squash and watermelons are
grown. Quite a few people farm on the island, Mohamed
says. I spot some temple flower trees in the fields, they
seem out of place. I learn from Mohamed that they are
sold to resorts; apparently they fetch a handsome price.
We go back to Mohamed’s parents’ again, it is time
for lunch. A veritable feast is prepared for us; fresh
garudhiya (fish broth), spiced trevally freshly caught
and grilled, and a spicy reef fish curry. They are served
with local condiments, a delicious chilli paste, fresh
chilli, onion and lime. Mohamed’s mother sat with us
chatting as we ate, making sure we each got more than
one helping of rice. His sisters bring in more mango juice
and their genuine hospitality really makes an impression
on me.
After lunch, it is time to head back. I leave with a
belly full of one of the finest meals of my life, a heart
made tender by the kindness of these strangers, and a
mind full of the island’s luscious vegetation. Definitely a
place I will come back to, and for longer.
19
About Town
A guide to visiting Malé
Malé is the bite-sized capital of the Maldives, a frenzied city dotted with tall multi-hued buildings, raucous
streets and bustling cafés. The economic hub of the small archipelago, Male’ presents visitors with an experience
distinct from that of resorts; it is fast paced, brimming with people and traffic. For residents, there is simply no
time to stop and stare, but there are quite a few charming places for tourists to inspect at their leisure.
1
Republic Square
A vast open space, the kind of luxury
you do not get in the city, the square is home
to hundreds of pigeons, and quite possibly the
largest iteration of the Maldivian national flag.
Opposite the square sits the country’s Defence
Headquarters. On a flank is the tall sky blue
Police Headquarters. The square is scorching
during the day but is a nice spot to sit and relax
late in the afternoon or in the evenings.
2
The Chaandhanee Magu
Souvenier District
An old district that has been around
almost as long as tourism in the country, some
of these shops are veritable institutions. Expect anything from t-shirts
adorned with local batik art to handcarved
wooden ornaments
to kitschy fridge
magnets. And always bargain.
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M A LE ’ G U ID E
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The Islamic Centre
Just around the bend from the shopping district is the main mosque of the
capital, and indeed, the biggest of its
kind anywhere on the archipelago.
Its official name, Masjid-al-Sultan
Muhammad Thakurufaan al-Auzam is a bit of a mouthful (Muhammad Thakurufaan is believed
to be chief among those who
liberated the Maldives from the
Portuguese in the 16th Century).
The majestic golden dome and minaret mould Malé’s skyline; they are readily
apparent as you approach the city.
4
Friday Mosque and Minaret
Just up the road from the Islamic Centre
is another mosque, but not just any mosque, it is
the most important heritage site of the country.
Constructed in the mid-17th century, the Friday
Mosque has been in continuous use ever since.
The mosque is built mainly out of coral stone
and features intricate coral carvings, a pinnacle
of Maldivian craftsmanship. Its interior displays
fine lacquer calligraphy and decoration, among
the best in the country. The local carpenters who
carried out the roofing and other woodwork have
their graves in the eastern part of the mosque.
The minaret is believed to be constructed in the
fashion of those in Mecca at the time. It was built
on the orders of Sultan Ibrahim Iskandhar. The
Friday Mosque complex has been on UNESCO’s
tentative World Heritage List since 2008.
5
Sultan Park
The biggest park in the capital and
once part of the palace grounds; it is an excellent
place to seek shade and sip a cold drink amid
the tall trees, rarities in the concrete choked
city. A banyan tree close to the museum seems
to intrigue tourists. The park is also home to the
National Library and the museum.
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The National Museum
The musuem was first opened in the
fifties by the then Prime Minister Mohamed
Amin Didi. The current museum building, a gift
from the Chinese Government, is housed in
Sultan Park. It features Islamic objects
and various royal artefacts, including sunshades, thrones and slippers
worn by Maldivian royalty. The museum is also home to a fragment of
moon rock from the US’s Apollo missions to the moon. There is a cover
charge of 20 Rufiyaa per adult, but it
is totally worth the money.
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Dhivehi Malaafaiy
Located close to Sultan Park, on Rah
Dhebai Magu, Dhivehi Malaafaiy is a restaurant
specialising in Maldivian cuisine. It is a great
place to unwind, smoke a shisha and check out
a wealth of uniquely Maldivian dishes. Try
garudhiya and bai, a local staple consisting of
steamed rice, fish broth, homemade chili paste,
lime and onions. Alternatively, you can go for
kukulhu musamma, a delectable dry chicken
curry, moderately spicy but edible and enjoyable even for those with a western palate.
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Carnival Area
Further up, in the eastern part of the
island, there is another place for local fare, especially breakfast and ‘short eats’, finger food
consisting of fish balls and samosa-like snacks
called bajiyaa, to be had in the evenings. They
also provide some local interpretations of international fare; check out the ever-popular nasi
goreng.
9
Artificial Beach Area
This is the only ‘beach’ to be
found in the city, it is a place to cool
off and enjoy some food. No bikinis, but you can catch the rays in
shorts and a tank top. Surrounding the horse-shoe shaped beach
are various restaurants that serve
foreign cuisines including Indian,
Thai and Italian.
10
Raalhugandu
This area on the eastern edge of the
city is where the cool kids hang out,
catching the waves or contemplating the sea over cigarettes
and energy drinks. Obviously
a place for surfing, and getting to know the genial folk
of the local surf community.
21
Boardshorts • Swimshorts • Sandals • Hats • Shirts •
Bikini • Rashguards • Waterproof Bags • Beach
Accessories • Sunglasses Waterproof Phone Cases •
GoPro Editions 3 & 4 • Sealife • Snap Sights Liquid
Image • GoPro Accessories • etc.
M. Araliya, Alhivilaa Magu, Male' 20292, Maldives
T: +960 330 2737 F: +960 300 2737 E: [email protected]
W: www.seagear.com.mv
22
SEPTEMBER 2015
23
Until at least 40 years ago, the lives of Maldivians were simple and modest. The men
sailed out to the sea and brought their catches to the wives and womenfolk to cook
and preserve. Garudhiya (fish soup) was made for lunch and dinner as the main savoury
dish, while the rest of the fish would be dried or smoked on a pier. The water used for
cooking the fish would be boiled and re-boiled until it turned into a dark thick paste
that the locals call Rihaakuru – every local’s favourite condiment.
24
SEPTEMBER 2015
F E AT U R E
CHILDREN
OF THE
SEA
WO RD S Ayesha N aseem
PH OTO S S H A A H I N A A L I , YA SS I N H A M E E D/ F 8 P R O ,
AZZU ( D O U B L E D OT )
Though land is scarce,
the sea is vast and thus,
Maldivians have adapted
themselves to the sea.
They have built their lives
and earned their livelihood
in and around the ocean.
25
Cowry shells or boli, the first medium of exchange
recorded in Maldives were used in the country until
20th century. In fact, cowry shell collecting and trading
became an active industry in the Maldives where both
men and women had designated responsibilities in
cultivating shells. Writers and travellers have recorded
the use of shells in trade in various parts of Asia, Africa
and even in Europe.
If you take a stroll in one of the rural areas of Maldives,
you will find such humble abodes built from corals and
sand even today. Although the government has since
banned coral mining, before the arrival of foreign trade
Maldivians used corals from nearby reefs to build their
houses.
26
SEPTEMBER 2015
F E AT U R E
Times have changed; today the sea is not only part of the Maldivian lifestyle but the strength of its economy. From live groupers to fresh yellow fin
tuna, lobsters, shrimps and other such exotic seafood; the Maldivian waters
is abundant. All these fresh varieties, as well as processed fish and fish
items, are exported to various corners of the world, especially Eastern Asia.
Tourists who visit the Maldives for its exotic beauty and fine dining should
not give its seafood a miss.
27
Fishing is not just a source of food or income. At sunset or late at
night, you will see menfolk sitting by the jetties with rods and lines.
It is a way of unwinding for some after a strenuous day, while others
just love catching their own food. The youth, especially young men
go on leisurely fishing trips during the weekend: they catch fish,
barbecue them on the vessel, sing, and dance and come back at
night. Even the resorts in the Maldives offer big game fishing trips for
visiting fishing enthusiasts.
28
SEPTEMBER 2015
F E AT U R E
Be it snorkelling, SCUBA diving or free diving and be it for
leisure, fish hunting or any other activity; under the sea is a
wondrous place to be! The enchanting views of marine life
itself provide a chance to unwind. The beauty of its sea is one
of the main attractions of the Maldives.
If you have run across the beach with your friends, collected colourful shells into an empty jar or a
bottle, then you have had a happy, and a very Maldivian childhood, so I say. We have strung them
together and made bracelets, necklaces and even wind chimes. If you visit a local tourist shop
you will witness not only the creativity of the locals, but you will also run out of options to
choose from. Colourful jewelleries to keepsakes, mini dhonis (fishing boats) to almost anything
that is reminiscent of a happy Maldivian retreat, you would want to take them with you. Maldivians
have evolved their happy childhood activity into an artful occupation.
29
The north breakwater of the capital city of Male’ is
a bustling area during the afternoon. While some sit
and admire the sea, sun and sand, the more adventurous are seen heading to the sea with their body
boards or surfboards.
30
SEPTEMBER 2015
F E AT U R E
You will be overcome with disbelief if you meet one of the local
boat designers. Without any formal education or training in the
field, they craft and design huge vessels. Safaris, boats or fishing
vessels; they are all designed and engineered by Maldivians.
The sea has taught us to seek food, earn a dignified living, and
it has produced arts and craftsmen and engineers. The sea is
everything to Maldivians - from survival to leisure. The ocean
is a blessing to Maldivians - the children of the sea. As Pablo
Neruda once said, ‘I need the sea because it teaches me’.
31
32
SEPTEMBER 2015
D E SIG N & INSP IR AT IO N
Sail
&
Sea
WOR D S MA R I YAM AT H I Z A AT H I F , P H OTO S YA SS I N H A M E E D/ F 8 P R O
I L LUST RAT I O N S E AGA N B A D E E U
As ancient as civilisation itself, boat building
is at the core of Maldivian culture. Mariyam
Athiza Athif delves into the world
of the Maldivian dhoni.
33
“Boat building in the Maldives used to be done without
any drawings or plans. A head carpenter would simply
give out the instructions and measurements to the
other carpenters.”
B
oats have always played an important
role in the Maldivian way of life. The
small coral islands of the nation are
geographically isolated and surrounded
by the vast Indian Ocean. In the ancient
times without telephones, televisions, radios
and th e intern et, it w as t h e b oat s t h at kep t
the inhabitants of these separate islands
connected. The boats allowed the inhabitants
to mingle, befriend and trade with those from
faraway islands. With Maldivians relying heavily
on the surrounding sea for food, it was also the
boats that ensured that the entire nation was fed.
The Maldivian traditional boat, referred to as dhoni
by the locals, resembles the traditional Arabian sailing
vessel dhow. These Arabian vessels are said to have
frequented the Indian Ocean during the 11th Century
AD for trading purposes. The word dhoni is speculated
to have its origin in Kannada or Malayalam. The
Kannada word for a small boat is doni, while the
Malayalam word for a small boat is thoni.
34
SEPTEMBER 2015
Wood from coconut palm trees
The traditional dhoni were sailing vessels that used
lateen sails, and were made of coconut palm timber.
Coconut trees are one of the most common trees in
the country, and the traditional boat builders used the
wood from the coconut tree since it was the only boat
building material readily available to them during
earlier times. Coconut palm timber is not the most
ideal material for boat building, but the wood is trusted
for its incorruptibility and solidity.
“We made the hulls of the boats from coconut
timber and coconut timber is not used anywhere
else in the world in boat building. However, there
is no other tree in the Maldives from which we can
get that amount of long straight wood. So that’s why
we say that the length of the boat is dependent on
the height of the tree,” explains Ahmed Wajeeh,
Managing Director and Senior Consultant Naval
Architect at Optimum Solutions Pvt. Ltd.
According to Wajeeh, while there are not many trees
that grow tall in the Maldives, even those that grow
tall have bends in their shapes and this is the fact that
has limited the size of ancient Maldivian boats to a
maximum of about 50 feet.
Kissaru Wadaan
Kissaru wadaan is the name used by the locals to
refer to the art of traditional boat building, and the
carpenters who work on building boats are referred to
as kissaru wadin. Boat building in the Maldives used
to be done without any drawings or plans. A head
carpenter would simply give out the instructions and
measurements to the other carpenters. Around 8
carpenters were usually involved in the process and it
took roughly 8 to 12 months to build one boat. Some
islands of the Maldives are especially well known for
the art of kissaru wadaan. These include Alifushi in Raa
Atoll and Velidhoo in Noonu Atoll.
According to Ali Hassan, Managing Director and
Chief Naval Architect of Maldives Marine Services
Pvt. Ltd, Maldivian boat building has its own special
characteristics. “The raised bow and curved tiller arm
are two special features of Maldivian boats. This is
how you can identify a Maldivian boat, even when it’s
adrift,” he says.
35
36
SEPTEMBER 2015
Arrival of modernity and tourism
Due to the increasing exposure to modernity and the
arrival of tourism, it was during the early 80s that these
boats with their own special Maldivian features began
to evolve.
Maldives opened its borders to tourists in the
late 70s and along with the opening of the first few
tourist resorts, the nation’s liveaboard industry also
began to stir into life. The first of the liveaboards
were traditional dhonis with their lateen sails, slightly
modified so that tourists can sleep, eat, and live on the
vessel. But soon, they started becoming mechanised.
And this trend also began to be mirrored by the fishing
vessels. For the fishermen, the addition of the motors
did increase their fuel costs. However, due to better
mobility and speed, the fishermen saw their catches
double. By the mid-90s, most of the fishing vessels
registered in the country were mechanised.
According to Philippe Laurella, a long time boat
builder and a veteran of the Maldivian liveaboard
industry, “The evolution of boat construction lead to
the standardisation of the design, especially for the
safari boats, and today, they look like something similar
to a mega yacht but in a smaller size.” Phillipe built one
of the first liveaboard vessels of the country. He named
it Baraabaru, and according to him it was inspired by
the design of the Maldivian sea vessel bahtheli.
Once the mechanisation of the wooden boats went
into full swing, Maldivian boat builders also came
across the need to look into other building materials.
“When the construction was done by only using wood,
it looked nice, but the problem was maintenance. Year
after year, the (maintenance) cost becomes higher and
the time that the boats spend stocked on the dry dock
becomes longer,” explains Phillipe.
Fiberglass
Maldivian boat builders chose the solution of building
them using fibreglass; a material that would provide
waterproof boats without any infiltration of water.
According to Wajeeh, “The most important factor to
consider when selecting boat building materials is the
weight strength ratio, and fibreglass is an ideal material
because its weight strength ratio is very low, meaning
strong structures can be made by using it thinly.”
However, Wajeeh notes that while fibreglass has its
beneficial characteristics, it is also very hazardous to
the environment.
Apart from fibreglass, Maldivian boat builders are
also now using imported wood and other such suitable
materials.
Still Evolving
No longer constrained by the height of the coconut
trees, Maldives now produces boats that are even as
long as 100 feet. Most of them equipped with diesel
engines, today’s vessels come with convenience
and speed. They are often equipped with the latest
technology and feature the latest trends in passenger
comfort and navigational safety.
The shapes, the construction techniques, and
the materials have evolved so far from the humble
sailing dhoni made from coconut palm wood. And
the traditional art of building a boat without using a
drawing is also becoming something that’s known and
practiced by only a handful of craftsmen.
37
38
SEPTEMBER 2015
M A R INE BIO LO G Y
TURTLE
POWER
WO RD S A D E L E V E R D I E R- A L I
39
The Coco Collection islands
are deeply invested in the
ocean and with marine
biologist Chiara Fumagalli
spearheading the in-house
conservation projects, local
turtles are finding refuge
and protection.
A
t any of the three Coco Collection resorts,
it’s impossible not to feel an immediate
proximity to the natural world. These
secluded islands, each protected by
ancient coral reef structures, feel at once
exposed to the elements and yet sheltered from
the world. With such a strong connection to the
environment being at the heart of the resorts, it is
unsurprising to discover that the islands place great
importance on ensuring that their operations do not
harm or threaten the surrounding ocean, reefs and
beaches. In fact, the islands go one step further and
aim to have a positive impact on their surroundings
and believe that it is possible for resorts to be vehicles
of conservation, awareness and environmental
responsibility.
Spearheading this mission is Chiara Fumagalli.
Effervescent, dedicated and passionate, Chiara is the
resort’s resident marine biologist. Hailing from Milan,
in northern Italy, Chiara has been at the forefront of
the resorts’ conservation efforts for more than three
years. With a bachelor’s degree in natural sciences
and a master’s degree in marine biology, she has
applied her academic studies with pragmatism to
establish eco-friendly initiatives that work in a resort
environment.
As I sit down with her to discuss the latest initiative
in Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu – the founding, building
and overseeing of a sea turtle rehabilitation centre on
the resort in partnership with local NGO Olive Ridley
Project – it becomes evident that Chiara believes that
tourists hold the key to protecting fragile ecosystems.
“What I’ve learnt during my career as a marine
biologist is that you can only protect that which has an
economic value. If you provide an animal with economic value then it becomes easier to protect it,” she
says. “When tourists choose to spend their holiday in a
particular place because there’s a chance they might
have an encounter with a turtle, dolphin or shark, then
it becomes easier to protect those species. That’s
40
SEPTEMBER 2015
why I believe that guests have a chance to make a
real difference.”
When studying for her master’s, Chiara chose to
study the positive impact of whale-watching trips in
the Mediterranean Sea. What she discovered was that
day-trippers and tourists could provide researchers
with valuable data about the animals. She applies the
same thinking at Coco Collection.
Coco Bodu Hithi, Coco Privé Kuda Hithi and Coco
Palm Dhuni Kolhu all offer exciting snorkelling and
diving excursions, which provide guests with incredible
opportunities to encounter endangered marine species
in their natural habitats. However, the spectacular
experience of seeing these beautiful creatures is not
the end point of these trips. When guests manage to
capture clear photos of hawksbill turtles or manta rays
with their underwater cameras, Chiara invites them
to share the shots with her. She then uses the shared
photos to identify individual specimens and tracks
their appearances in a database. Chiara then shares
this information with marine biology organisations
across the country. With such a simple act, guests
are then contributing valuable data to a network of
marine scientists and helping them to gain important
information about population sizes and habits.
In fact, guest participation in the identification
of turtles has been so successful that now 25% of
ID shots are from guest photos. “There are many
turtles in our database that I have personally never
encountered,” says Chiara, “so it goes to show that
they can really make a positive contribution to
research during their holidays.”
In addition to the very successful turtle ID
programme, Chiara and her team also have a close
relationship with the local green turtles. These gentle
creatures use the beaches of Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu
to lay their eggs. As these turtles return to the beaches
where they were born when it is time for them to
lay their own eggs, there is a steady stream of nests.
The resort takes upmost care to ensure they are not
M A R INE BIO LO G Y
Chiara Fumagalli leads the marine
biology team at Coco Collection
Green turtles can be spotted
while scuba diving throughout the
Maldives
disturbed. There are no lights on the beach so as not to
disorientate the turtles and fences are erected around
the nests, to protect them. Guests are invited to watch
the incredible occurrence when a nest is laid and when
they hatch – an unforgettable holiday memory – but
Chiara ensures that no flash photography is used and
that the guests stay a good distance away.
At Dhuni Kolhu, Chiara often crosses paths
with another breed of turtle; the olive ridley. Largely
oceanic throughout the majority of their lives,
unfortunately this breed comes on the radar
only when it’s in trouble. “For a variety of reasons,
including currents, our location and our dedicated
team, we keep finding a high number of stranded ghost
nets and injured olive ridley turtles,” says Chiara. Ghost
nets, Chiara explains, are abandoned, dumped or lost
fishing nets that drift throughout the ocean, often
clumping together and trapping sea life as they go.
Due to their oceanic habitats, olive ridleys are most at
risk of getting entangled. Although fishing with nets
is illegal in the Maldives, currents bring them to the
islands, all the way from Sri Lanka, India and Pakistan.
“If the turtles are badly injured, it’s often difficult
to find them somewhere to recuperate,” Chiara says.
“There’s only one turtle centre nearby and it’s always
full to capacity.” Local NGO, Olive Ridley Project, was
set up in 2012 to raise awareness of this issue and to
track where the nets are coming from.
With Dhuni Kolhu removing the highest number of
ghost nets in the Maldives, Chiara knew that the resort
could be part of the solution. “I kept thinking that there
had to be something else we could do to help the
turtles of the Maldives,” Chiara explains. With this in
mind, the idea to build a turtle rehabilitation centre in
partnership with the Olive Ridley Project was born.
As soon as the idea came to her, Chiara drew up a
proposal to present to the resort’s senior management.
Turtles of all species are so inherent to the resort’s
unique environmentally aware culture that they
accepted it immediately. Within a few weeks, an
agreement was signed with the NGO; Coco Palm Dhuni
Kolhu would raise funds to build a turtle rehabilitation
centre on site, whilst the Olive Ridley Project would
provide guidance, support and general know-how.
Currently, Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu is raising funds to
build the centre by adding an optional $10 surcharge
to guests’ bills. In addition, they are selling colourful
turtle soft toys, which have been crafted in Sri Lanka
from gorgeous hand-woven fabrics. With the majority
of guests choosing to donate in these ways, the centre
is well on track and building work will commence
before the year is out.
W it h s uc h ex t e ns ive co ns e r v a t io n ef fo r t s
established in all Coco Collection resorts, and with the
exciting prospect of a rehabilitation centre becoming
a reality, Chiara’s belief that tourism holds the key
to conservation is being proved right. With such an
emphasis on nurturing sustainable, caring resorts, Coco
endangered creatures with voice. As such, they are a
part of the very core of these islands.
41
Beach morning glory or Goat’s foot
Dhivehi name: Than’buru
42
SEPTEMBER 2015
F LO R A & F A U NA
Trees of the
Maldives
WOR D S MA R I YAM AT H I Z A AT H I F , I L LUST RAT I O N S E AGA N B A D E E U
A surprising variety of plants have
put down roots in the little soil the
Maldives has to offer, embodying the
resilience of the islands and all its
inhabitants.
43
B
eing consistently warm and humid, the
climate of the Maldives is ideal for luxuriant
growth of tropical trees and shrubs.
However, when compared to other tropical
regions, the low-lying coral islands of the
Maldives are challenging grounds for plants. There are
hardly any nutrients in the soil, and freshwater is only
available during the rainy season.
It’s believed that no plants are indigenous to the
Maldives. The 300 or so plant species that have
colonised the Maldives arrived from neighbouring
continents. Sometimes seeds arrived stuck to the
feathers of visiting birds and sometimes they were
carried in by the sea current. The sea current also
brought in parts of plants and occasionally an entire
specimen! For successful colonisation, all of these
plant species had to be saltwater tolerant and capable
of extracting freshwater from seawater.
Apart from the plant species that journeyed to the
Maldives, around the same number of species have
been brought in and cultivated by man for food, timber,
building materials, and sometimes simply for their
beauty.
The plant communities found in the Maldives can be
divided into four groups. There are those hardy ones
that live on the foreshore, those that live on the beach
crest and those that live in the relatively comfortable
environment of the inner islands. Additionally there
are a number of mangrove plants that grow in the
Maldives. Those species are mainly found in enclosed
or semi-enclosed brackish water bodies, or in muddy
areas. In this issue, we will look in detail at the plants
found in the first two categories.
Plants of the foreshore
The lower beach zone that extends from the high tide
line to the low tide mark is a harsh environment. It’s
exposed to wave action, wind and salt spray. The soil
is unstable and consists of coarse coral and shingle.
Due to the severe conditions of this zone, vegetation
is scarce except for some occasional creeping sand
binders and a few other species.
Bigfoot sedgeat’s foot
Bigfoot sedge, a typical feature of sandy tropical
beaches, grows close to the shoreline and
comes with a ball shaped flower head.
Stabilisers and
windbreakers of
the beach crest
The beach crest or the beach top includes a stable
area consisting of coral sand and rubble. Similarly to
the lower beach, this area is also exposed to winds
and salty spray, and occasionally gets inundated by
seawater. However, it provides a suitable environment
for a number of trees, shrubs, sand-binding creepers
and herbaceous plants that often serve as a protective
barrier for the plants located in the inner island.
Fan flower
Dhivehi name: Magoo
Besides the coconut palm, the fan flower is
probably the most common plant in Maldives.
This woody shrub bears small white flowers that
look like fans. The fan flower community forms
an effective windbreak of about 3 to 4 feet.
Tree heliotrope
Dhivehi name: Boashi
The tree heliotrope has been found to be
dominant in the plant community of the beach
crest especially in the northern islands of the
Maldives. These woody beach plants can grow
up to 6 metres in height and are located quite
close to the high tide line. However, because
they don’t grow too close together, they don’t
form effective windbreakers.
Iron wood
Dhivehi name: Kuredhi
This is a dense shrub with small white flowers.
Beach morning glory or Goat’s foot
Dhivehi name: Than’buru
This is a tough salt resistant plant that prefers
to grow on the upper levels of the beach dunes.
From there it colonises the lower beach areas
by sending out long sprawling runners. This
creeper bears beautiful blue and red flowers
and produces salt water resistant seeds that
float. This is an important stabiliser of sandy
shore ecosystems.
44
SEPTEMBER 2015
Bay cedar
Dhivehi name: Halaveli
This multi branched low-lying shrub with small
leaves is an important stabilizer of the sandy
coastal ecosystem. This shrub with small leaves
occurs frequently on the beaches of many
tropical countries.
F LO R A & F A U NA
Bay cedar
Dhivehi name: Halaveli
45
Huni gon’di
46
SEPTEMBER 2015
C U ISINE
The
Melting
Pot
WO R D S N AS H IU ZAH IR , PHOTOS YA SSI N H AME ED/ F8 P R O
The Maldives has maintained trade routes
with its spice-rich overseas neighbours for
centuries. The result? A distinct local cuisine
that has combined cooking know-how from
across the region.
N
oted 14th century traveller and explorer,
the Moroccan Ibn Batuta observed that
after a vessel docked in the Maldives, it
was customary for men to approach it
with gifts of young coconut and betel,
South Asian treats. In her book, Classical Maldivian
Cuisine, Aishath Shakeela notes that those who accept
such gifts were invited to stay at the men’s homes
and treated as family. Travellers then depart from the
country with gifts, including food that does not perish
quickly, prepared by the womenfolk of the household.
Historically, Maldivians acquired necessities from
Sri Lanka, India and Bangladesh; bartering cowries and
food items including dried fish, rihaakuru (fish paste)
sweet potato, breadfruit, taro and sweets such as
bondi, halvaa, fathuli hakuru. The basic food items they
received in exchange were rice, caster sugar, corn flour,
condensed milk, salt and spices. This had an impact
on the food that was made in the country, adding new
facets to local cuisine.
Curry, which has since become a staple across
the country, would have been born through trade;
curries need spices, which are not indigenous to the
Maldives. They are very likely to have come through
trade with South Asian and South-East Asian nations.
One example of such is a dry chicken curry called
kukulhu mussama, the ingredients of which include
peanuts and raisins. The dish is not very typical of
Maldivian fare and is probably a variation of the
Thai masamman curry; itself thought to have roots in
Persian Muslim cuisine.
As may be expected there are commonalities in
food among all the atolls but the dispersed nature of
the atolls gave rise to variety in food in different parts
of the country. In the south of the country for instance,
taro was a staple food, whereas the northerners’ diet
essentially consisted of breadfruit and mangrove.
Below are some specialties from the three main
divisions of the archipelago.
47
Even though land is scarce, the locally
grown ingredients are what make the
Maldivian dishes taste unique
Specialities
of the North
Specialities of
Central Maldives
Haalu Folhi
Hobelehey’yo
This is a specialty of the island Haa Dhaalu
Kulhudhuffushi; an ultra-thin pan cake made with rice,
eggs, pulverised sugar and jasmine water. A snack with
a subtle sweetness and a hint of egg, it is prized by
many Maldivians especially those in Male’.
A specialty of the island Raa Kandholhudhoo, this is
a kind of dry curry, made with smoked tuna and an
array of spices including fennel, cumin, peppercorns,
coriander, and seasoned with rampe leaves and salt.
A spicy dish, it is typically served with rice and is
featured at special occasions.
Kuhlhavah Fani
A specialty of the island of Noonu Landhoo, this is a
drink made with mangrove apple (Sonneratia Alba),
sugar and water. Sweet with a bit of tartness, it is a
delicious drink to sip, chilled, on a sunny day.
48
SEPTEMBER 2015
Hanaakuri Madimas
A specialty from Alif Dhaalu Fenfushi, this dish is no
longer cooked as it contained ray (madi) flesh, which is
now illegal to catch. The ray was boiled in brine and its
flesh was later heated in a wok with grated coconut. It
used to be served as an accompaniment to rice.
C U ISINE
Until recently, Maldivians cooked
on an open fire inside their homes
Before cooking the rice, bad grains were removed
by hand. This is called “Han’doo hovun”
Curry powder used to be made
by mixing different types of local
spices and leaves together using a
manual grinder
Specialities
of the South
Geshi Ala
A specialty from Gnaviyani Foahmulah, this is a
simple, tasty dish made of cocoyam, jasmine water
and coconut palm syrup. It can be enjoyed on its own
or paired with smoked tuna.
Kulhi Bis Fathafolhi
This comes from the island of Meedhoo in Addu Atoll.
It is a savoury pancake made with eggs, using fish
paste (rihaakuru) and flavoured with lime, ginger and
peppers. A thoroughly enjoyable snack between meals.
These dishes are only a fraction of what different
atolls have on offer; almost each island has some
unique dish, or an idiosyncratic interpretation of an
existing one. A journey through the islands will reveal
connecting points, bridges between the people, and
areas of unique inventiveness.
49
Coco Cook up!
WO R D S N AS H IU ZAH I R
Take a slice of our cuisine home and serve up some holiday memories.
The Chef: Faiz Idrees
Faiz Idrees is a charming man by all means. Selfassured and merry among guests at the resort,
communicating fluently in both English and French,
you get the feeling of someone who is in his element.
He is Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu’s executive chef, and
though he has only been at the resort for a few months,
it is evident that he feels at home. But things were
not always so straightforward for him; his is a story of
perseverance, of working one’s way up from the very
bottom.
He comes from a large family, which is not unusual
in the Maldives. His native island, Eydhafushi, is Baa
Atoll’s most populated island, and also its capital. His
father had a boat, and was well respected although the
family was not by any means well off.
Faiz came to Male’ for further studies after
completing grade seven in his native island. But his
hopes to achieve higher education were dashed. “The
family I stayed with expected me to work for them to
earn my keep,” he explains. “I was their servant to be
honest. So I really had no time for school or studies.”
When he was sixteen years old he was introduced
to life on a resort at Club Med’s Farukolhufushi. “I
wasn’t really interested in much at the time, had no
particular interests,” says Faiz. “But it was a different
environment, and quite fun, a far cry from what I’d
been used to.”
50
SEPTEMBER 2015
He began work washing plates in the kitchen.
Because of his knowledge of English, which was
comparatively better than his peers and even some of
his superiors, he soon became important. “The chef
would brief me every day,” he recalls. “And I would
translate his instructions for my superiors in the
kitchen.”
His newfound importance, his keenness and
convivial personality led him to opportunities to be
trained abroad. He had spent time training and working
in Japan, Australia, New Caledonia, (where he picked
up French), Mauritius, and places closer to home, in
Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand.
His hard work paid off in 2002, when he was
promoted to executive chef at a property in Bali. Soon
however, he came back to the Maldives. Today he
heads a team of 52 staff in Dhuni Kolhu, catering to
the tastes of more than 200 guests every day. It is
challenging but given his background Faiz is well
prepared.
At Dhuni Kolhu, Faiz feels at home, and he goes
about his business with an enthusiasm befitting a
much younger man. “I’m very glad to be in Dhuni
Kolhu,” he says. “I have an excellent team here. Also,
I’d been meaning to work for a Maldivian company for
a while. I spent half my life with Club Med, I have no
regrets about that but I’m very pleased to be with a
local company. I feel like I’m part of the family here.”
C O C O R E C IP E S
The Recipes:
Herb crusted lamb rack
Chicken broth
Seared sea scallops
with scented curry foam
Unit
Qty
Scallop
no.
3
Cherry tomato
no.
6
Guacamole
tbsp
2
Orange
no.
1
Olive oil
tbsp
2
Basil leaves
bunch
1
Pink pepper corn
piece
6
Curry spices mixed
tbsp
2
Method
Sear the scallops in a large non-stick skillet with olive
oil. Season the scallops with salt, curry spices and cook
for 3 minutes. Prepare guacamole paste and roast the
tomatoes. Serve the scallops mounted on a thick slice
of orange with the guacamole, roasted cherry tomato,
and drizzle with curry dressing. Garnish with the fresh
basil leaves and decorate with pink peppercorn. This
dish can be serve either hot or cold.
Unit
Qty
ml
200
1 tablespoon Butter
tbs
2
Uncooked couscous
gms
100
Grated parmesan cheese
tbs
2
Fresh bread crumbs
gms
100
Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
tbs
1
Chopped fresh mint
tbs
1
Minced fresh rosemary
tbs
1
Salt
to taste
1/4 teaspoon Black pepper
to taste
3 1/2 tablespoons Olive oil
tbs
1
3 frenched racks of lamb (8 ribs and 1 1/2 lb
each rack), trimmed of all but a thin layer of
fat, then brought to room temperature
gms
200
2 tablespoons dijon mustard
tbs
1
Lamb jus
ml
50
Mix vegetables blanched
gms
100
Butter for sauted vegetable
tbs
2
Method
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat to 400° F.
Season lamb with salt and pepper. Heat remaining
tablespoon of oil in a large heavy skillet over moderately
high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown lamb
1 rack at a time, turning once, about 4 minutes per
rack. Transfer to a roasting pan, arranging fatty sides
up. Spread fatty sides of each rack with 2 teaspoons
mustard. Divide bread crumb mixture into 3 portions
and pat each portion over mustard coating on each rack,
gently pressing to adhere. Roast the lamb at 130° f for
20 to 25 minutes. Mount the plate as shown on the
picture with sauted vegetables and lamb jus and serve
with creamy couscous.
51
52
SEPTEMBER 2015
U ND E R WAT E R F E AT U R E
Take the
plunge
WO R D S ADELE VERDIER-ALI , PHOTOS SH A A H I N A A LI
The Maldivian sea is brimming with life,
colour and beauty - follow these tips
and stay safe out there!
W
hen in the Maldives, it’s easy to forget
that the entire country is built on a living,
growing foundation. The reason for the
country’s entire existence is the presence of
the coral reefs upon which the islands were
formed so many millions of years ago, and which today
encircle all but one of the Maldives 1,190 isles. The
Maldives is a coral nation, making it not only fragile but
also utterly beautiful.
Many of these living, developing and changing coral
reefs lie only metres below the surface, at the edge
of shallow lagoons. They swarm with life. Fish of all
colours, shapes and sizes stream through the warm
tropical waters. Coral reefs may only cover 1% of the
ocean floor, but an estimated 25% of all marine life
inhabits these ecosystems. Turtles, reef sharks, and
rays all cohabit these stretches of natural, underwater
fortifications. As such, spending hours drifting along
the drop-off, observing this frenetic, subaquatic world
is a must when holidaying the Maldives.
Snorkelling. With water temperatures hovering
about 27°C, it’s one of the Maldives’ simplest
pleasures. Yet, with all things, there are always
precautions worth taking to make sure you stay safe.
To ensure that your time snorkelling at Coco Collection
resorts is the magical experience it should be, be
careful to follow these simple steps whilst in the water.
If you’ve never swum in the ocean or used snorkelling
equipment before, make sure you inform the dive or
water sports centre before going in the water. The
trained staff will help you choose the right equipment
(including a life jacket, if necessary) and speak to you
about safety. Also, we highly recommend you join a
guided snorkelling trip before entering the water alone.
Never swim alone. Always make sure you swim with
a buddy. If you are in a group, assign yourself a buddy
before entering the water and make sure you keep
them within sight at all times. This will make you feel
safer and lowers the chance of problems arising.
Make sure you are familiar with your equipment.
Ensure you have the correct size fins, that your mask
fits correctly and doesn’t leak and that your snorkel
is attached in the proper manner. This will make
your snorkelling experience more enjoyable and
comfortable.
Be aware of the ocean. There are currents in the ocean,
and their strength and direction change all the time.
Pay attention to the currents, the waves and the swell
and be conscious of the direction you are headed. Do
not head too far out or you might get tired when
it comes to returning to the beach. If you feel like
conditions are changing, head back to the shore.
Don’t touch or step on any marine life. The coral reefs
here are extremely fragile and take a long time to grow
even a small amount. By ensuring you don’t touch
them, you are protecting them for years to come, as
well as preventing possible cuts or injuries to yourself.
Take care of yourself. Remember to stay hydrated,
protected from the sun with either a high factor
sunscreen or UV resistant clothing (sunscreen can
be harmful to corals, so we recommend you choose
clothing where possible and additional sunscreen on
exposed skin). Stay within your and your buddy’s limits
and comfort zones.
53
One of the greatest precautions we can take to avoid injury whilst snorkelling, is to educate
ourselves about the creatures we may encounter. Whilst some may worry about sharks, the
reef sharks here are completely harmless, shy even. However, the following reef tenants are
those you want to take care around:
54
Coral
Corals are sharp and painful and can cause deep
cuts. Some species, such as fire coral, can cause
painful irritation. Avoid stepping on, touching or
swimming too close to the coral beds.
Lionfish
Lionfish are beautiful, exotic fish. They are not
quick to hide and allow swimmers to approach
them. But beware not to touch them! The thorns on
their backs are connected to poisonous glands that
cause a very painful sting.
Stonefish
The stonefish lies motionless on top of corals and
merges in to its surroundings with its incredible
camouflage skills. The stonefish is known as the
most poisonous fish on the planet, carrying their
poison in the spines on their backs. The pain from
a small prick will be intolerable! Immediate first aid
is required. Stonefish are another reason why it is
important not to touch the coral, as you may not
spot them.
Sea Urchin
Sea urchins are mainly found attached to the coral
bed, or on coral rubble. The urchins have sharp, thin
spines that are very brittle. If you were to step on
one, the needle-like spine would detach and stay
lodged in your foot, causing a throbbing pain. If
not removed, there’s a chance the injury could get
infected, too. Avoid stepping on sea urchins by not
walking on the coral.
SEPTEMBER 2015
U ND E R WAT E R F E AT U R E
Anemone
The anemone has tentacles that it uses for catching
prey that, if touched, will cause a burning, itching
sensation, followed by redness and swelling. Observe their beautiful colours from a safe distance.
Triggerfish
This oval, yellow fish is extremely territorial when
nesting and breeding. They actively chase away
invaders that approach their nests and may bite if
approached. Their teeth are incredibly strong and
their bites can cause serious injury. Always stay a
cautious distance away from triggerfish.
Cone shell
These attractive shells are actually some of the
most dangerous animals living on the reef. They can
deliver a sting that has been known to at times have
fatal consequences. The dart-like sting is so tiny
that you will not feel it at first, but the effect will
start to take effect within 15 minutes. Never pick up
shells to avoid getting stung.
Stingray
Stingrays are beautiful, shy animals that are not
aggressive. They only become a threat if you get
too close, touch, or step on them. They can often
be found lying on sandy bottoms, and like to
nestle into the sand, which means they are sometimes very well camouflaged. Their long barbed
tails can administer a sting that can be life
threatening. When in the lagoons, be aware of
where you are putting your feet.
55
Dyeing
Arts
WO R D S AMIN AT H ISHRATH , PHOTOS H USSA I N SH A Z
Traditional handicrafts are at peril of vanishing across
the globe. Yet in a far-flung corner of the Maldives,
Aminath Ishrath meets a woman determined to keep
the art of Maldivian dyeing and weaving alive.
56
SEPTEMBER 2015
A R T S & C U LT U R E
57
S
outh Huvadhoo Atoll in the Maldives is best
known for its world-class surf breaks and
dive spots to which many liveaboards flock.
But my purpose to visit this gem of an atoll
is to personally meet up with Aminafaanu
from the island of Gadhdhoo, a lovely lady I have been
chatting with over the phone a few days before my trip,
who has been weaving thundu kunaa for almost four
decades. As I sit on the plane looking out at the many
deserted islands dotted almost next to each other, it
hits me that this was the first time I am travelling this
far south in the Maldives.
After a choppy speedboat ride from Kaadedhdhoo
Airport, I step onto the island of Gadhdhoo and the
warm welcome by Aminafaanu and her friends is
comforting. Her quaint home by the beach is a far cry
from the bustling city and I welcome the quiet happily.
As I dip into one of the hammocks hanging in the
backyard to have a proper chat with her about the art
of weaving these intricate mats, she is already calling
out to more of her friends to gather around and share
their stories.
This particular mat weaved with a type of dried
weed is known in Dhivehi as thundu kunaa or
Huvadhoo kunaa, an intricate piece of work that
is mostly crafted by women. Since the island of
Gadhdhoo is most well-known for this handicraft,
I am expecting Aminafaanu to tell me all about
58
SEPTEMBER 2015
how this skill was handed down to her from older
generations of her family. However, even though she
has been weaving these mats for almost 40 years, she
simply got into it out of pure interest and curiosity.
The ladies tell me stories of how they have always
remembered the island being renowned for this
handicraft in particular and spoke of the days when
the islanders travelled to Ceylon and brought back
sketched patterns, which the mat weavers followed
and developed into their own styles and designs.
Few things are certain when you see a thundu
kunaa; the work is elaborate, each weaver has their
own twist to the design (which reminds me of how
old bake houses identify their bread with signature
scoring), the retail price appears pretty hefty and the
finished product is simply a beautiful work of art. But
the complicated process of gathering the materials and
the hours spent to weave a single mat are lost on most
people yet become much appreciated and valued after
you take it all in.
It all starts with cyperacea, a weed that grows in
wetlands, known in Dhivehi as hai or in the dialect of
the ladies, hau. Usually picked from the neighbouring
farming island Gan or from Fiyoari, another island in
the atoll, the hau need about 4-5 days to dry out in the
sun. Once dry, they resemble shades of fawn or beige
and are sorted into two piles, one is to discard of the
ones that are broken (quality control sure is strict with
A R T & C U LT U R E
“When you see a thundu
kunaa; the work is elaborate,
each weaver has their own
twist to the design.”
these ladies) and the other pile is to separate hau that
are slightly more fawn-coloured, which will then be
dyed black and ochre yellow.
The preparation of the dyes is one of the most time
consuming phases of getting all the materials ready
and it sure looks like there is no easy way to obtain the
black colour. A mixture of rusty iron pieces and coconut
water are kept covered for around 15 days, after which
it is poured into a pot lined with stripped bark from a
tree, onu gas thoshi as they called it, and some of the
separated hau that are slightly more fawn coloured.
This mixture is cooked for 15 – 20 days until the hau
is stained black. I know what you are thinking; surely
there must be an alternative! These ladies have tested
quite a few options such as artificial packaged dyes,
toner inks and even tried to create their own black dye
using crepe paper but have not been able to work with
the results. As they explain, it is fascinating to see how
the old way still works the best.
Comparatively, the yellow dye is a bit simpler to create. The root of great morinda, known as ahi gas moo in
Dhivehi, is cooked in seawater for about 2 hours after
which ground turmeric and some of the separated hau
that is slightly more fawn coloured is added to form
the ochre yellow that are woven into the mats.
The loom itself is also created on the island by
skilled carpenters. Very thin strips of sea hibiscus tree
bark, known as dhiggaa gahu thoshi is woven onto
the frame before the mat weaving can begin. About
the size of a single bed, this loom takes up quite a lot
of space and it is common for these ladies to have a
dedicated space outside their home for this. While
going about normal housework and daily chores, it can
take up to two months to complete a four by two feet
thundu kunaa. Usually sold to souvenir shops in different sizes nowadays, these mats used to be presented
to royals and foreign dignitaries as gifts.
There is honesty and nobility to this craft that
Aminafaanu and her friends have been working
on for decades and it was eye-opening to see the
complicated process involved to understand the value
of this complex art. As I board the plane back to the
city with a box of mangoes and freshly fried taro chips,
I cannot help but sincerely admire the work of these
talented artisans.
59
Fusing body
and mind
WO R D S N AS H IU ZAH I R
In the opening of Thelonious Monk’s famous jazz tune Round
Midnight, a nimble piano roll from the highest to lowest register
heralds what is to come. What follows is a mesmerising exercise in
melody and harmony. It is slow and at times discordant, but in spite
of this, there is a wholeness to the piece. There is unity. And as I
lie on the massage table at the award winning Coco Spa, the tune
comes to mind as I become a piano under skilled fingers.
A
s the sun is slowly beginning its arc
towards the sea behind me, I walk through a
green corridor on Coco B odu H i t h i . Th e
sun-dappled ground, the rustle of leaves as
a small animal, perhaps a lizard, takes flight
se ns ing ou r ad vance, an d som ew h ere i n t h e
distance, barely perceptible, the sound of the sea.
We come to the end of the greenery, and the beach
spreads out; pure, blinding white. A walkway leads
to the overwater residences and the spa. The sprawl
of the overwater spa brings to mind some of Monk’s
own sprawling, inimitable work; both at first seem a
combination of separate elements. The spa manager,
Patthama Thongprom, or Patt as she goes by on the
island, greets me warmly and my name is put down for
a late afternoon spa treatment. I’m offered cold towels,
some ice lemon tea, and I’m ushered to a seat. The tea
is excellent, a much needed counterpoint to the heat.
60
SEPTEMBER 2015
After tea, Patt takes me on a little tour of the place.
There are various components: the spa boutique, which
houses a wealth of luxury products such virgin coconut
oil (from India), French balms, and essential oils. The
pedicure and manicure lounge is set considerably apart
from the treatment rooms “because,” explains Patt, “we
want to keep the smell of chemicals far away.”
The complex, which houses a sauna, steam room,
and treatment rooms, is unified by a concept that
is strikingly Maldivian, with distinct local touches;
thatched roofs, elegant use of wood. Even the
massaging rooms, cool, with teak floors and smelling
of oriental herbs, are brought under a common theme.
Each room is named after a different aspect of the
coconut palm and their peaked roofs are thatched
with dried palm fronds. Like Monk’s music, once you
get a feel for it, a sense of harmony and cohesiveness
exudes from the place.
W E LLNE SS
As I sit with Patt, she tells me that she’s been
working in the field since 2002. At one point in her
career she was overseeing nearly 20 spas located in
the Asia Pacific region, including Egypt, Kuwait, Sri
Lanka, Thailand and the Maldives. “It involved travelling
quite a bit,” she laughs. “I don’t think I was in Thailand
for more than five days at a stretch.” She took up the
spa manager’s position at Bodu Hithi towards the end
of last year and is pleased with her work and her team.
“My team are very experienced, very professional,” she
says. “Whether it‘s in a jungle or underwater, a spa is
only as good as its service.”
Back in my residence, as I sip from a bubbly drink,
my mind is listless and my body is encumbered with
the stresses of the capital, where I live. Even last
week’s aches make their presence felt in various
quarters. My body is the low, ponderous bass of the
Monk tune, out of synch with my mind, which flits from
thought to thought like his flourishes on the ivories.
There is a clear disconnect between body and soul. The
serene blue-green vista before me does nothing to still
the mind’s tumult.
When I arrive at the spa at precisely five o’clock I
am directed into Raa, the first treatment room. There
I lie prone on the massage bed, on its soft green silk.
A gong sounds. It has begun. Soon, gentle, but firm
touches begin to work their way up from my feet. I
am an instrument. The exquisite hands belong to a
maestro, working her will upon my body, improvising,
yet grounded by the codes of an age old tradition,
like the improvising jazz pianist to his theme. Now my
thoughts are tied to this delight my body is experiencing. They are almost inseparable; body, soul.
When I rise from the table and look through the
glass doors, it is almost as if I am seeing the splendour
of the lagoon for the first time. The dying light has
burnt into the surrounds, the poignant goldenness of
a precious memory. Everything seems to be in cosmic
concord, and as I sit, again with a drink, and gaze upon
the deepening hues, I begin to realise body and soul
are one. It is far from midnight, but that final cadence
of the Monk tune tinkles in my mind, and my body
responds, joyously.
61
Beach Beauty
WO R D S MARIYAM ATH I ZA ATH I F, PHOTOS FA SH I ON STO C K
Whatever your style, this swimwear will
guarantee you turn heads by the pool.
The beach often makes you carefree. Sometimes it makes you adventurous; luring you into activities such as
snorkelling and diving, while at other times it makes you spend lazy hours just lying about on a sunbed or
hammock. Along with inducing states of minds that evaporate stress and seriousness, the beach also makes you
let go of stiff weighty clothing, allowing room for experimentation, boldness and most importantly - fun. We
all know that swimwear is not just for swimming. The good news about swimwear is that it has now become
something that everyone can enjoy, regardless of personality or body type.
The old school one
piece revamped
We’ve been seeing more and more
of the traditional one-piece swimsuit
during the last few years. What used
to be boring and unadventurous
has now made a comeback with
unconventional necklines, sexy cutouts, feminine details and photo-realistic prints. These modern twists
have transformed this near extinct
swimwear option into something that
is fun and daring while still providing
some extra coverage for those who
desire it.
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SEPTEMBER 2015
Retro Style
It looks like the retro vibe is here to
stay. High-waisted bikini bottoms are
a staple piece of this funky style, and
besides helping you look notoriously
fashionable, they also allow you to
enjoy a bit more coverage without forfeiting on style.
F A SH IO N T IP S
Long Sleeves
We’ve always thought of swimwear
as something that maximises sun exposure and allows for gorgeous tans.
Well these are definitely not for tanning. These high fashion offerings are
for those glamorous ladies who want
to make a statement on their sun
loungers.
High-neck crop top
This is one of the cutest swimwear
trends around. This too is probably
not the best option for tanning, but
the style brings on a certain freshness
and is especially useful for partaking
in water sports.
Mesh and Sheer
Ruffles and Frills
We’ve been seeing a lot of ruffles and
frills on both one and two piece swimwear recently. These lovely details
communicate a girly mood, that’s both
flirty and innocent.
This is definitely not for spending sunny days on the beach. This is for those
beach and pool parties where you
want to look ultra-feminine and mysterious. These surely are a bit more revealing than your average swimwear,
but since you are on vacation you
might as well take a bold move and be
a bit adventurous.
63
TRAVEL
TO
TRANSFORM
WO R D S ADELE VERDI ER-ALI
Adele Verdier-Ali
attends international
health educator Dave
Catudal’s Tranzend
Body Wellness retreat
at Coco Palm Dhuni
Kolhu and finds that
healthy living is just a
few small steps away…
64
SEPTEMBER 2015
F
or most, a holiday signals a chance to recharge batteries, to recover from the stresses
of everyday life and to restore low energy
levels. Some prefer to remain poolside for a fortnight, others choose to spend time with a loved
one, and there are those that might indulge at the
spa. All equally tempting, all equally relaxing.
But what about opting to hit the gym during a
vacation? It seems less appealing. However, Dave
Catudal – Director and Founder of innovative health
company Tranzend and the Tranzend Body System –
sees things differently. What if, instead of recharging
your batteries, you could make them run differently
altogether? What if, by inculcating new habits, learning
to eat differently and making healthy choices, you
could ensure your energy levels never needed topping
up again?
During his tailor-made Tranzend Body Wellness
retreats, Catudal provides the space and knowledge
to achieve just that. Having trained top models,
Hollywood stars and professional athletes, he is no
stranger to making people look and feel their best.
During the month of August, Catudal brought his
wealth of experience to the Maldives, exclusively at
Coco Collection resorts. His two five-day retreats, first
at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu and then at Coco Bodu
Hithi, were designed around the simple goal of making
healthy living more accessible.
I caught up with Catudal on the first day of the
retreat to chat about his methods and to experience
what he had in store for guests during his bespoke
fitness getaways. And to my relief, there wasn’t a
treadmill in sight.
Having been a fitness coach and nutrition
consultant for over 14 years, Catudal specialises in
teaching the essentials of better living through a
H E A LT H
balance of fitness, organic nutrition and mindfulness
techniques. Author of The Physique Transformation
Book, he sees his retreats and his books as indicative
of his approach to wellness. “The book is a simplified
guide to living better through adopting a more
organic and active lifestyle, and just like in my wellness
retreats, my methods of training and nutrition are all
about making health fun,” he explains over a nutritious
breakfast.
As I don my dusty trainers and head over to Coco
Palm Dhuni Kolhu’s yoga pavilion for a private fitness
session, I can’t help but feel nervous. My relationship
with fitness has always been sporadic and my relationship with food is, well, a full-blown love affair. However,
as soon as I arrive I realise that my trepidation was
unfounded. Dave instantly puts you at ease. His fitness
methods are straightforward and his encouragement
is genuine. By the end of the high intensity 35-minute
session, I’ve definitely awoken some dormant muscles
but I’ve had fun doing it.
Yes, each day of a Tranzend retreat does revolve
around physical fitness activities but replace visions
of dreary half-hearted cardio with the possibility of
professionally designed fitness routines, beach yoga
and water activities in the inviting Indian Ocean. Add
to the mix educational workshops that touch on
everything from detox nutrition to hormone
optimization, seminars on topics such as stress
management and even a class on whipping up your
very own raw vegan superfood smoothie and you’re
much closer to what Catudal has in store.
Correct nutrition is naturally one of the key elements
of the retreats and prior to his residence on the Coco
Collection islands, Catudal worked in conjunction
with the resort’s chefs to design a menu for retreat
participants that is not only healthy and perfect for
losing fat but also mouth-wateringly delicious. “I like
to prove to people that eating healthy doesn’t have
to be boring! This is a great opportunity for guests to
learn how to change their diet to include more healthy
meals, and it’s inspiring to experience fine-dining that
is also completely healthy,” he explains over a lunch of
grilled fresh reef fish and steamed vegetables,
followed by citrus fruits and shaved coconut.
Later that day, I sit with Dave for a nutrition
consultation and his suggestions seem manageable
and realistic. He understands that I’ll never give up my
afternoon latte, so instead recommends that I work on
swapping my toast with jam for some poached eggs
in the morning. He also explains that stress can be a
major factor in weight gain, and we discuss stressreduction techniques.
“When it comes to the health of our bodies, we
must also exercise the health of the mind. I can’t
think of a more ideal location to experience a holistic
wellness retreat than the Maldives,” he says. “My aim
is for guests to go home with a lighter, leaner and
more healthy body, and a more balanced and peaceful
mind.”
As I return to my windswept beachside villa (a
sanctuary in its own right) I reflect on my priorities. In
a world where time is a commodity, pausing to focus
on personal wellness is often mistaken as a luxury.
Yet Dave has reminded me that an unhealthy life is a
life half lived. And after just one day, I’ve learnt how
to have more energy, more mental clarity and maybe
just lose a few pounds along the way. I feel inspired to
inculcate change in my own less-than-active life.
And with those prospects on offer, leaving the
poolside and dusting off my trainers has never looked
so appealing.
65
SKINCARE
LAID BARE
66
SEPTEMBER 2015
W E LLBE ING
WO R D S FAT H IMATH LA MYA A BDU LLA , PHOTOS YASSI N H A M E E D/ F 8 P R O
We all know sunscreen is a must when holidaying
in the tropics, but how else can we make sure our
skin is looking its best when spending time in the
salt, sand and sun?
T
he equatorial tropical climate is what
makes Mald i ves so very at t ract i ve
to those tha t l i ve i n col der, fri gi d
temperatures. Especially popular as a
getaway destination during the harsh
winters, the hot and humid weather is regarded as
a welcome change by most. However, this change
that you welcome with good grace might not be
something that your skin welcomes so willingly.
Anyone that has lived in one place for long would
have perfected a skin care routine down to the dot
according to their skin type and climate. However,
before a trip to Maldives you might want to re-think
your skin care rituals for the duration, as the
procedures that you follow in cold or warm places may
produce some unwanted or harmful effects on your
skin in the hot and humid Maldives.
Humidity can be very good for your complexion
too, as the damp air aids rapid cell turnover, leaving the
epidermis soft and supple. However, humidity can also
cause you to sweat and this can aggravate acne-prone
skin. Furthermore, skin conditions like miliaria, a heat
rash that occurs when sweat ducts are clogged, or
folliculitis, the inflammation of hair ducts caused by
microorganisms, may arise from getting over heated.
There are several things that can be done to reduce
the harmful effects of humid climate on your skin
before they even start. Though the treatments to the
various skin conditions may be different, the steps to
successful prevention are quite the same. All you need
to do is adapt your skin care routine to best suit the
humidity, and remain cool to ward off the scorching
heat.
Cleanse
No Touching
Humid weather can make your pores go into over-drive
and produce more sweat to cool off your overheated
body, which makes you more prone to breakouts,
especially if you have oily skin. To avoid having oily
skin full of excess sweat, wash your face at least once
a day, using warm water and a non-comedogenic
(does not block pores) skin cleanser. If you are prone
to breakouts, you might also need to use an acne-care
treatment that includes salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide as these help to naturally dry up the oil caused
by the humidity while treating the pimple-causing
bacteria. However, as these will increase your skin’s
sensitivity to sunlight, it is advised to use them during
night time. In a situation where you feel extra sweaty,
just splash some lukewarm water on your face. This
will wash away the sweat and open your pores without
stripping your skin of its natural moisture.
While you might experience an urge to wipe away the
sweat and succumb to its complimentary itchiness, it is
something that you must never do in humid weather.
The ostensibly innocent action only spreads the dirt
and oil present on your face, and may even introduce
bacteria, making the already bad situation worse.
Rather than wiping the sweat off with your hand try
blotting your skin with a clean tissue. You can also use
an oil-absorbing, skin-blotting cosmetic paper, that’s
often sold from cosmetic stores. These extra-absorbent
items help to suck the oil and sweat out of your skin
giving you a more matte appearance.
Moisturise
Exposure to the sun can dry out the skin on your face
and body, and can increase the risk of skin cancer.
It is best to use a moisturiser that contains a broad
spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of at least 40 to
protect your face and body from ultraviolet rays. It is
advised to do this even on seemingly cloudy days in
Maldives, as the weather here is quite unpredictable.
When applying moisturiser on your face, skip the areas
that produce the most oil, also known as the T-zone.
The moisturiser may aggravate your already oily skin
and make you more susceptible to breakouts. The
T-zone generally covers your nose and the forehead
right above your eyebrows.
Exfoliate
Humidity can cause dead cells to linger, rather than
flake away as they would in drier climates. This is
undeniably bad as it clogs pores and causes acne.
Choose an oil free formula that contains round beads
which are gentler on your skin compared to harsh
grains. Follow up with a clay based mask to help
absorb the oil.
Stay cool
One thing you must never be without in a humid
climate such as the Maldives is a bottle of water. Drink
plenty of water to keep yourself cool and hydrated.
Additionally, it is best to wear cool clothing, nothing
that will overheat your body or cause excessive
sweating. Cotton and linen clothing would be the
most suitable choice, accompanied by a hat. Doctors
also do advice to shower at least twice a day using
anti-bacterial soap.
67
Every once in a while I look around,
the quiet beach, the breathtaking
moon above me and I smile to myself.
This is so much better than sitting in
a crowded cinema listening to people
crunch and munch their popcorn.”
68
SEPTEMBER 2015
E XP E R IE NC E
Cinema Paradiso
Movies under the moon
WO R D S N oona hussein
Noona Hussein puts the world on hold as she slips away
from the city and enjoys a night at the Coco Cinema.
Reading a book or watching a movie is something
I do when I want a distraction from reality. And
there’s nowhere quite like a Maldivian resort if
you’re looking to escape the real world for a while.
So when I was invited to experience an open-air
cinema at Coco Bodu Hithi, I jumped at the chance.
Until then, I’d never experienced an outdoor cinema. And I will always remember the magic that
was that beautiful night, at Coco Bodu Hithi…
A
rriving at the resort, the weather is absolutely
perfect. Smooth, glassy ocean and the bright
sun shining, I could not have asked for a more
beautiful day. I’m welcomed at the jetty and I’m driven
in a buggy to my ‘home for the night’, the Coco
Residence. Built over the lagoon, and with its own
infinity pool, the Coco Residence is a haven. I
immediately change and climb into the pool, knowing
I have a few hours before I am set to go to the cinema.
As my toes hit the water, I put the outside world on
hold.
A long leisurely swim and a hot shower later, I dress
for dinner and go to the main restaurant . The food is
absolutely divine, and I thoroughly enjoy my meal. The
waiters are friendly and ready to help and assist me in
anything, so I feel set for the night. A couple of hours
before the movie, I am given an iPad with a selection of
movies to choose from. I look through it carefully before settling on one called ‘Playing for Keeps’, a Gerard
Butler rom-com.
The Coco Cinema is set up on a guest’s request, and
the resort even offers private cinema viewings for
couples requesting a bit of alone time. If it’s not a
private setting, all guests are allowed to join in and
enjoy the movie.
I walk to the beach area by the pool and see that
beanbag chairs and small side tables are already
arranged, in front of a massive white screen. The sun
has set and the moon is already out, making the ocean
shimmer in sparkles under its light. The waves crash
gently onto the beach and I nestle myself comfortably
in a beanbag, close to the ocean, and once I am settled,
the staff hits play and I am off to my virtual dreamland
with Mr Butler. The sounds of the ocean and the winds
are blocked out, and I forget reality for the next hour
and a half.
I enjoy the selection of salted nuts a waiter places
to my side as he takes my order for a drink. The
experience couldn’t be better. Every once in a while I
look around, the quiet beach, the breathtaking moon
above me and I smile to myself. This is so much better
than sitting in a crowded cinema listening to people
crunch and munch their popcorn loudly, because
everything is better when done outdoors and under
the stars.
I let myself get carried away with the movie, sip on
my fresh watermelon juice and nibble on my snacks.
Every so often, I have to tear my eyes away from the
screen and take a look around. Most of the guests have
retired to their room after dinner, and it’s so quiet,
except for the movie. Gentle winds brush against my
skin and I pull my cardigan around me a little tighter.
Nestled in a beanbag, I am very cozy.
Of course, my virtual rom-com companions live
happily ever after and my cinematic escape concludes.
Having experienced the Coco Cinema, I am doubtful
that I will enjoy movie theatres as much. The space,
the tranquility and serenity at the Coco Cinema is not
something that I get to experience in the city. I too
retire to my residence and for one more night, I get to
keep the world at bay.
69
70
SEPTEMBER 2015
C O C O F A M ILY
Meet
the family
WORDS N A SH I U Z A H I R
Abul Hussain, Coco Collection’s
longest serving associate, shares his
journey from builder to bar captain
A
bul Hussain, a mild mannered
but affable man from Comilla,
Bangladesh, is one of the stars at
Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu. As bar
captain, he oversees the Beach
Bar near the resort’s jetty. His working knowledge of several languages, including French,
Italian and Japanese have helped endear him
to many guests, especially those who choose
to return year after year.
The eldest of five children, Abul completed
his schooling in Comilla, and enrolled at the
city’s technical college. There he gained an
understanding of the basics of hospitality. He
came to the Maldives in the late 90s, hoping
to find work at Dhuni Kolhu. It was a dream of
his to work in hospitality, he says. But things
did not go exactly as planned, as the resort
was still under construction at the time.
Thus Abul’s first taste of the Maldives
ended up being that of an expatriate
labourer’s. He worked diligently, never
despairing despite the unfavourable hand he
had been dealt. “I got along fine with everyone,” he says. “It wasn’t what I’d been hoping
for but at least I got paid, was fed and had a
place to sleep.”
After the resort was completed Abul
wanted to leave but the management did
not want to let him go. “They offered me a
position in the kitchen,” he says. He took
it after some thought. Soon, he managed to
change to F&B, which he found more to his
taste.
Abul has received extensive training over
the years. He remembers a particular trainer
from Canada that he was especially fond of.
“He was very helpful,” says Abul. “He helped
me overcome my shyness when dealing with
people, especially the guests. I was afraid to
talk to people, because my English wasn’t
very good. But he said, ‘They will understand
that you’re not from England. It’s not your first
language. Don’t be too hard on yourself.’ And I
took his advice.”
Nowadays, he has many friends among
guests, and Dhuni Kolhu gets quite a number
of repeaters. “Some guests don’t even call it
the Beach Bar; they call it Abul Bar,” he laughs.
Abul is proud of the cocktails he serves,
especially his mojitos and Long Island iced
teas. “I’ve got some great comments from
guests about them,” he says. “A lot of
repeaters come to me and ask for their usual
drinks. I know them so well, I know their
tastes, what they want. I’m able to keep them
happy. ”
Abul has been the bar captain for almost
five years and he is thrilled to be working at
Dhuni Kolhu. “The management’s fantastic,”
he says. “They’d even send personal letters
thanking us at the end of the year. So that
makes you feel really appreciated.” He is also
delighted with the team at the resort. “I know
everyone here,” he says. “I’ve been with them
so long and they’re really amazing people.
And we’re like brothers and sisters, like family
here. We’re all the same here, regardless of
our nationality or religion or race; here at
Dhuni Kolhu we’re all part of the Coco Family.”
71
R E V IE W
Island Vibes
Dhaalu Raa
WO R D S MARIYAM ATH I ZA ATH I F
L
eg e n d a r y M a l d i v i a n m u s i c i a n A h m e d ’ s
Dhaalu Raa, released by Asasi Records in
2012, can be described as a transcendental
union of local rhythms and western rock music,
especially that of the 60s and the 70s.
Born on 3rd January 1966, Ahmed Nasheed, who
simply goes by the name Ahmed, grew up in Male’
listening to western rock music. Ahmed is highly
regarded for his contribution to the ground-breaking
local album Dhoni by Zero Degree Atoll, which was
released in 1990. Melding local sounds such as boduberu drumming and traditional raivaru style singing
with western rock guitars and drums, Dhoni was the
first of its kind in the country. Its release is regarded as
a monumental achievement, and a turning point
for the local music scene.
Ahmed’s solo debut
album Dhaalu Raa came
22 years later, and it
appears that his flair for
fusing together local
and western styles has
survived the entire two
decades. The opening
track Bakari, which
seems to be focussed on
the topic of corruption,
blends electric guitars
and rock drums with
local elements such as
boduberu drumming and
dhandi, in a style very
similar to his earlier
work. However, it’s on the second track titled Alifuthu
that we are slowly introduced to his unique viewpoint;
slightly relaxed, bouts of humour here and there, and
most surprisingly his taste for simplicity.
The third track Dhiyaanaage Huvafen, which
supposedly is about the passing away of Princess
Diana in 1997, gets even softer, verging on an almost
otherworldly vibe, with light guitars, light drumming
and Ahmed’s raivaru-like singing accompanied by soft
backing vocals. The track titled Dhoni is probably the
gentlest number on the album, evoking images of the
local islands and the laidback lifestyles of the past.
Ahmed depicts the same kind of imagery on his track
Manjemen, which appears to be centred on the theme
of women’s rights, bringing to mind images of girls
72
SEPTEMBER 2015
walking with bandiyas, the traditional metal pots used
for collecting and transporting water, and learning
to read and write using voshufilaa, a traditional
instrument used for teaching.
Fihivalhu is probably the most urgent sounding
number on the album. The slow moving track appears
to encompass some rudiments of the grunge music
scene of the 90s, especially on the guitars and
Ahmed’s singing, and the song brings on an intense
sense of approaching danger with its slithering quality.
The same slithering quality is also evident on the track
Randhodhi, although the hints of peril seem to be
replaced with a certain airiness.
It looks like Ahmed’s sense of humour takes centre
stage on the track
Magumathi; a funky,
laidback jazzy number,
on which he talks about
simply walking on the
street. It’s quite playful
as well, with keyboards
reminiscent of car horns
along with other streetlike resonances.
Sihuru and Rasge are
the two most energetic
tracks of Dhaalu Raa.
Rasge, with its theme of
corruption, is probably
the most straightforward
rock number on the
album, while on Sihuru
Ahmed punctuates the
rock style structure of
the song with boduberu style singing over traditional
boduberu rhythms.
Sheyvaa, the closing track of the album is a haunting
number. The wise words written by Ahmed’s wife are
delivered in almost a chant-like manner with faint
hints of Indian classical music, making it ethereal and
sublime.
Dhaalu Raa is available for purchase at Amazon,
iTunes, and other major online music stores. It’s also
available from various outlets in Male’ including Island
Music, Jazz Café, LeCute, SeaHouse Café, and SeaHouse
Brasserie. The album also streams on Spotify and the
tracks “Bakari” and “Rasge” can be freely downloaded
via SoundCloud.
2015 Collection
For inquries: +960 7910858, [email protected]
73
M AP O F MA L DI VES
Haa Alif Atoll
Haa Dhaalu Atoll
Shaviyani Atoll
Noonu Atoll
Raa Atoll
Lhaviyani Atoll
Coco Palm
Dhuni Kolhu
Baa Atoll
Kaafu Atoll
Alif Alif
Atoll
Alif Dhaalu
Atoll
Coco Bodu Hithi
and Coco Privé
Kuda Hithi
Male’
The
Low
Down
All you need to know
about the world’s
lowest-lying nation
Vaavu Atoll
Faafu Atoll
Meemu Atoll
Dhaalu Atoll
Thaa Atoll
Laamu Atoll
N
Gaafu Alif Atoll
Gaafu Dhaal
Atoll
EQUATOR
Nyaviyani
Atoll
Seenu Atoll
74
SEPTEMBER 2015
Global
Connections
Immediate neighbours
India and Sri Lanka (Northeast), Laccadive Islands
(North), Chagos Archipegalo (South), Seychelles
(Southeast)
International airports
Ibrahim Nasir Int’l. Airport* (Kaafu Atoll),
Gan Int’l. Airport (Seenu Atoll),
Hanimaadhoo Int’l. Airport (Haa Dhaalu Atoll),
Villa Int’l. Airport (Alif Dhaalu Atoll)
International relations
UN and most of its specialized agencies, Commonwealth, OIC, the Non-Aligned Movement, and
SAARC
Credit cards
American Express, Diners Club, Eurocard, JCB,
Master Card, Visa
Entry
No prior visa arrangements required. A tourist
visa of 30 days will be given to visitors with valid
travel documents, upon arrival.
Calling code
+960
Internet TLD
.mv
M A LD IV E S F AC T S
Male’- The capital city of Maldives
Archipelago
and islands
The
Nation
Geographical coordinates
3°15’N 73°00’E
Geographical location
Indian Ocean
Total area
90,000 sqkm
Area of land
298 sqkm
Total no. of islands
1,190 islands
Archipelago
Length: 823 km, Width: 130 km
Total no. of administrative atolls
19 atolls, 189 inhabited islands
Largest atoll
Huvadhoo Atoll (6486 sqkm)
Smallest atoll
Nyaviyani Atoll (4.81 sqkm)
Highest natural elevation
7.8 ft (2.4 metres)
Average natural elevation
5.9 ft (1.8 metres)
Temperature
31.1° C (Mean max), 25.5° C (Mean min)
Monsoons
Southwest: May-Oct, Northeast: Nov-Apr
Average daily sunshine
8 hours
Average annual rainfall
1793.3 mm
Humidity
79%
Capital city
Malé (1.77 sqkm, 4°10’N 73°30’E)
Status
Republic
Independence
26th July 1965 (from the United Kingdom)
Demonym
Maldivian
Religion
Islam (Sunni)
Population
341,356 (2014 census)
Maldives standard time
GMT +5
Languages
Dhivehi is the national language.
English is widely spoken as a second language.
Literacy rate
98.2% (10-45 yrs)
Currency
Maldivian Rufiya (MVR/RF, USD 1 = RF 15.42)
Working hours
Banks: 8:30 am to 2 pm (Sun to Thu),
Government offices: 8:00 am to 4pm (Sun to Thu)
Weekend: Friday and Saturday.
Major industries
Tourism, Fishing
National flower
Pink rose
National tree
Coconut palm
75
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SEPTEMBER 2015
77
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SEPTEMBER 2015

children of the sea

Transcription

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