Educational Resource Manual
Transcription
Educational Resource Manual
Educational Resource Manual Dear Colleague; Welcome to the DermaMed Solutions team! We are thrilled to have ambitious, professional and highly qualified people like you working with us to bring the dmSkincare line to professionals across the country. This manual is an educational and reference piece for you to utilize as you educate and enlighten our customers about the dmSkincare line and the DermaMed Solutions family of products. The dmSkincare line is a comprehensive line of natural, botanically-based skin care products with proven effective active ingredients. The line is designed to work alone or to support mechanical and wellness protocols. At DermaMed we are very particular about the ingredients we use in our skin care products. All of our skin care products are paraben-, phthalate-, sulfate- and petroleum-free. dmSkincare products do not contain harmful chemicals, preservatives, fragrances, or dyes. Many active ingredients are obtained from botanicals and are blended to create highly effective anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and skin protective benefits. We don’t sacrifice safety to achieve clinical activity in our products. dmSkincare products are dermatologist tested and aesthetician proven. Your success and satisfaction are paramount and we welcome and encourage your input. At DermaMed Solutions we adhere to a strict set of core values and focus on providing our customers with the highest level of service and integrity in our interactions. I’d like to express my sincere commitment to helping you in any way I can to represent dmSkincare. I recognize that it is through strong relationships that we enjoy continuing growth and expansion. I look forward to getting to know you better and working together to bring the dmSkincare line to new and exciting places! Warm regards, Ginger Hodulik Vice President DermaMed Solutions, LLC 1 section Table of Contents Section COMMON SKIN CONDITIONS 5 An Overview of the Skin: Skin Physiology 6 The Skin and Its Function 6 Structure of the Skin 7 Skin Types and Common Conditions 7 Section RETAIL PRODUCT OVERVIEWS & DIRECTIONS FOR USE 9 AHA salicylic solution 12 antiox-C serum™ 13 argan boost serum™ 14 bio repair oxygen spray 15 botana-gel cleanser™ – with green tea 16 C-difference™ – vitamin C lotion 17 clari-tone serum™ – for even skin tone 18 collagen renewal C’reme™ – with epidermal growth factor 19 daily eclipse™ – oil-free sunscreen SPF 30 20 derma renewal gel™ 21 eye-radiance K’reme™ – with grape seed extract 22 gentle cleansing bar 23 green tea toner – with glycolic 24 green tea vita-E moisturizer™ – with cucumber 25 high potenC serum™ 26 daily eclipse duo™ 27 repair bar 28 retinyl enzyme treatment – with green tea 29 vitA-clear serum™ – antioxidant/oil control 30 Section PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT OVERVIEWS & DIRECTIONS FOR USE 32 antiox-C serum™ 34 argan boost serum™ 35 bio repair oxygen spray 36 botana-gel cleanser ™ – with green tea 37 daily eclipse™ – oil-free sunscreen SPF 30 38 derma renewal gel™ 39 D2O solution 40 glycolic treatment 30% 41 green tea vita-E moisturizer™ – with cucumber 42 hydra-repair mask™ – with red wine extract 43 3 1 section lactic treatment 30% 44 oxygen cream 45 oxygen serum 46 IPL photo sensitizing prep 47 peel prep 48 retinyl enzyme treatment – with green tea 49 treatment neutralizer 50 vitA-clear serum™ – antioxidant/oil control 51 Section PROFESSIONAL PROCEDURE PROTOCOLS 52 Hydra Bright Facial 53 Blush & Glow Skin Therapy Protocol 54 Precision Peel Protocol 56 Collagen Boost Protocol with Microdermabrasion and IPL 57 Battling Backne Protocol 59 Combatting Calluses Protocol 61 Helping Hands Protocol 63 Smoothing Stretch Marks Protocol 65 Softening Scars Treatment Protocol 67 Accelerated Reaction Treatment Protocol 68 Section SUPPORT SERVICES & ORDER INFORMATION 69 Glossary of Skin Care Terms 70 Skin Types and Common Conditions 83 Haloxyl™ Sell Sheet 84 Renovage™ Sell Sheet 86 dmSkincare order form 88 4 Section COMMON SKIN CONDITIONS 1 section An Overview of the Skin: Skin Physiology Most of us are born with a beautiful complexion – we’re soft, smooth and completely untouched by the world around us. As we set forth into the “real world” to pursue our dreams, the environment, the stress and sleepless nights all conspire to create lines of concern on our faces. Our skin texture shows the damage caused by the wind, sun and pollution. We also have to consider the impact of diet and the foods we eat. And finally, there is aging. It is also important to realize that professional skin care is not vanity, it is simple good health – the continual practice of preventative medicine. It is not difficult, but you do have to properly care for your skin each day in order to maintain clean, radiant skin with a smooth texture. Keep in mind that there are two types of people who will seek your help: first, those with beautiful skin who want to maintain it or look even better. And second, those who have abused their skin far beyond the point where conventional products can be used to repair their damage. Both come to you and your staff for the best professional care available. Each needs your help and guidance on a continuing basis in order to take advantage of the most current scientific advances in skin care. The Skin and Its Function Skin is the largest living organ of your body covering almost 21.5 square feet of surface area and contains millions of cells that are constantly being renewed. The skin also contains blood and lymphatic vessels, nerves, water, fatty tissue, and oil and sweat glands. Skin is very complex and must be nourished, cleansed and treated on a daily basis if it is to stay healthy. Nothing can stop the hands of time or inherited skin conditions. Through medical treatment and proper maintenance, however, you can slow down the aging process. You can reduce the evidence of both hyperpigmentation and sun damage, and through the mutual efforts of both you and your patients, set a goal of achieving the healthiest skin possible. The natural exfoliation process in healthy skin ranges from 20 – 28 days when our bodies naturally shed the skin. As we age, this process slows and sheds unevenly. At the same time, there is collagen and elastin depletion from all these aging forces. 6 1 section Structure of the Skin The skin consists of three main layers, the epidermis, the dermis and the subcutaneous layer. The epidermis has four definable layers: the basal layer, the spiny layer, the granular layer and the horney layer, also known as the stratum corneum. The epidermis is the outside surface layer that protects everything underneath it. Because it is the outermost layer, the epidermis exhibits all of the skin’s problems. 90 percent of the cells in the skin are in the epidermis. The basal layer is the lowest layer of the epidermis. In the basal layer are the basal cells and the melanocytes. This is the layer where new cells are born. These plump new cells reproduce or divide rapidly and gradually rise to the surface of the skin. It is the function of the cells of this layer to continually renew the skin’s vitality. Scattered throughout the basal layer of the epidermis are cells called melanocytes, which produce the pigment melanin, one of the main contributors to skin color. The dermis provides structural support and nutrition for the skin and lies below the epidermis. It is comprised of oil and sweat glands, nerve endings, hair follicles and an intricate network of blood vessels. All of these are held together by collagen and elastin. The dermis plays a vital role in the skin’s natural internal cleansing system. The secretion of the sweat glands (fluid) and oil glands (lubricating oils) naturally nourish and keep the skin soft and pliable. Below the dermis is subcutaneous (fatty) tissue. This layer acts as a cushion to protect the nerves, glands, and blood vessels of the dermis. There are four major skin cell types; keratinocyte, melanocyte, Langerhan’s cells and fibroblast. Skin Types and Common Conditions Acneic Skin: Acne affects people regardless of age, gender, or race. Factors that affect acne production include heredity, oily skin and bacteria. Acne skin is usually oily and distinguished by blackheads and pimples. If neglected and uncared for these blemishes can advance to a worsened stage and leave behind scarred and pitted skin. Combination Skin: This skin type has an oily T-zone across the forehead, nose and chin, but a normal to dry area around the cheeks and throat. Another combination pattern is oily along the chin, jaw line and at the temples, but normal to dry skin elsewhere on the face. Dry Skin (Xerosis): Dry skin, also called Xerosis, is a common problem. Due to sun exposure and aging, skin can lose its ability to produce moisture and natural oils. This 7 1 section results in dry skin. Though it may look smooth with fine pores and few blackheads or blemishes, it may also have a tight, leathery appearance. Skin needs moisture to stay smooth and supple, and retaining moisture becomes difficult with age. Hyperpigmentation: The darkening of patches of skin or nails due to ramped-up melanin production, resulting in blotchy looking skin, “raccoon” under-eye circles, and uneven skin tone. Keratosis Pilaris: A common skin condition in which a protein in the skin called keratin forms hard plugs within hair follicles and causes rough patches and small, acne-like bumps, usually on the arms, thighs and buttocks. Keratosis pilaris bumps are usually white, sometimes red, and generally don’t hurt or itch. Mature Skin: Loose creepy appearance and lines distinguish this skin type which develops due to biological changes, the aging processes and a slow-down of cell growth. Cells don’t regenerate quickly and skin loses its elasticity. Symptoms include lines appearing due to ongoing positional habits, such as sleep lines, consistent facial movements, or muscle changes from the effects of gravity. Oily Skin: Oily skin is often shiny and coarse in texture and may have recurring blackheads and enlarged pores. It may also have patches of flakiness around the nose where excess oils have dried. Photo-damaged Skin: Occurs from extended exposure to sunlight. Most commonly affects skin on the face, arms and legs that is left uncovered. Can manifest itself in sun/liver spots, pebbly skin, irregular pigmentation, and in some cases, cancer. Rosacea: A chronic skin disease that affects the middle third of the face with persistent redness over the areas of the face that normally blush and the nose: mainly the forehead, the chin and the lower half of the nose. The tiny blood vessels in these areas enlarge (dilate) and become more visible through the skin, appearing like tiny red lines (called telangiectasias). Pimples can occur that look like acne. Unlike acne, rosacea is not primarily a plague of teenagers. It occurs most often in adults (ages 30 to 50), especially those with fair skin, and affects both sexes but tends to be more common in women but worse in men. Rosacea rarely reverses itself. It lasts for years and, untreated, it worsens. Untreated rosacea can cause a condition called rhinophyma (ryno-fee-ma), literally growth of the nose, characterized by a bulbous, enlarged red nose and puffy cheeks (like the old comedian W.C. Fields). There may also be thick bumps on the lower half of the nose and the nearby cheek areas. Rhinophyma occurs mainly in men. Sensitive skin: Broken capillaries and vessels beneath the surface of the skin distinguish this skin type. Sensitive skin should not be over stimulated because it is extremely delicate and reactive to any type of physical or chemical stimulation. 8 Section RETAIL PRODUCT OVERVIEWS & DIRECTIONS FOR USE TOTAL LIST OF PRODUCTS AHA salicylic solution antiox-C serum™ argan boost serum™ bio repair oxygen spray botana-gel cleanser™ – with green tea C-difference™ – vitamin C lotion clari-tone serum™ – for even skin tone collagen renewal C’reme™ – with epidermal growth factor D20 solution daily eclipse™ – oil free derma renewal gel™ eye-radiance K’reme™ – with grape seed extract gentle cleansing bar glycolic treatment 30% green tea toner – with glycolic green tea vita-E moisturizer™ – with cucumber high potenC serum™ hydra-repair mask™ – with red wine extract IPL photo sensitizing prep lactic treatment 30% mineral makeup (daily eclipse duo™) oxygen cream oxygen serum peel prep repair bar retinyl enzyme treatment – with green tea vitA-clear serum™ – antioxidant/oil control treatment neutralizer RETAIL PRODUCTS AHA salicylic solution antiox-C serum™ argan boost serum™ bio repair oxygen spray botana-gel cleanser™ – with green tea C-difference™ – vitamin C lotion clari-tone serum™ – for even skin tone collagen renewal C’reme™ – with epidermal growth factor daily eclipse™ – oil free derma renewal gel™ eye-radiance K’reme™ – with grape seed extract gentle cleansing bar green tea toner – with glycolic green tea vita-E moisturizer™ – with cucumber high potenC serum™ mineral makeup (daily eclipse duo™) repair bar retinyl enzyme treatment – with green tea vitA-clear serum™ – antioxidant/oil control 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: AHA salicylic solution T his skin renewal product hydrates while exfoliating with a poly-AHA combination of glycolic and lactic acids plus salicylic acid. Marine algae extracts remineralize and tone the skin. This pleasant, non-sticky gel can be used on its own for removing dead cells and imparting a smoother, softer surface to any skin type. It is also used as part of the delivery system for all of the nutrient serums. The combination of acids is extremely effective, yet gentle enough for many sensitive skin types. Salicylic is a mild keratolytic that creates gentle desquamation, as well as imparting anti-microbial benefits. Any skin type, especially for oily and acneic skin types. Used for resurfacing and re-texturizing programs. This product may be applied after serums to intensify delivery. Helpful in the treatment of keratosis pillaris. SC570 INGREDIENTS: ater (Aqua), Glycolic Acid, Lactic W Acid, Polysorbate – 20, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Laminaria Japonica (Algae) Extract, Sodium PCA, Allantoin, Glycerin, Simethicone, Ammonium Hydroxide, Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone PACKAGING: 50 ml/1.7 fl. oz. airless pump bottle; POA – 12 Months INSTRUCTIONS: pply a nickel size over serums A or use alone. May cause mild shedding of surface skin. May be used on neck, chest and arms as part of an anti-acne program or to KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: encourage cell turnover as part Glycolic acid (AHA): dissolves intercellular cement responsible for abnormal keratinization, of an anti-aging improves skin hydration, sloughs dead skin cells, cleans pores and smoothes fine lines. program. Lactic acid (AHA): increases water holding capacity of the corneum layer. Concentrations of 5% and above provide improvement of fine lines for softer, smoother skin. Algae extract: stimulating, revitalizing and nourishing to the skin, contains anti-inflammatory and skin tensing properties. Salicylic acid: dissolves the top layer of corneum cells, is an antiseptic found in the leaves of wintergreen and bark of sweet birch. Sodium PCA: high performance humectant, moisture binding abilities, derived from amino acids. 12 2 section PRODUCT: antiox-C serum™ DESCRIPTION: Free radical protection in a silky serum taking anti-aging to the cellular level. This stable, oil soluble, lipid source of Vitamin C delivers strong antioxidant and rebuilding ingredients. Once applied to the skin it hydrolyzes into ascorbic acid and provides skin lightening, promotes collagen synthesis and acts as a strong free-radical scavenger. It has excellent skin affinity, therefore, has superb cutaneous absorption. It goes on like silk and dries to a beautiful and light finish. This fat soluble form of vitamin C has a higher conversion of vitamin C within the dermis, offering long lasting vitamin delivery and penetration. RX: INGREDIENTS: Anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, & dehydrated skin types Dimethicone/Dimethiconal, Cyclomethicone, Tetrahexyl Decyl Ascorbate, Jojoba Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Sinensis, CoEnzyme Q10, l-Carnitine, SC830 Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Water (and) Hexylene Glycol PACKAGING: 30ml/1 fl. oz airless pump INSTRUCTIONS: Apply in the morning and/ or evening after cleansing. May be used as a layer under your favorite dmSkincare moisturizer. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, used in cosmetics, personal care products and anti-aging products because of its ability to increase collagen levels, reduce melanin production, brighten skin, and repair the effects of UV exposure and other environmental damage. It is also considered to be more potent than L-asorbic acid and other Vitamin C compounds, and has a higher rate of penetration (because it is lipid soluble, like human skin) than other derivatives; it also has a higher rate of conversion to vitamin C within the dermis. Jojoba oil: Jojoba: a wax ester derived from a desert shrub type plant. It is similar in chemical structure to components of human sebum. It penetrates rapidly, while leaving an emolliency on skin. Camellia Sinensis (Green tea extract): a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells 13 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: argan boost serum™ This serum is a light, non-greasy lipid barrier replacement in a water miscible form. It incorporates natural and organic ingredients specially chosen for ultrasensitive skin. Argan Oil, Squalene and Jojoba mimic the skins own oils to protect the barrier and hold natural moisture in. Argan Oil has been shown to have regenerative and anti-microbial properties. Vitamin D, a signaling hormone, may promote cell immunity and has been used topically to treat skin conditions such as psoriasis. Can be used by any skin but is especially useful for sensitive, dry and eczema skin types. This product should be used post-treatment (IPL/chemical peel/deep microderm) to aid in the healing process. Use this serum to create a lustrous, glowing appearance to the skin. Squalane, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Oil, Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D-3) KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: SC630 PACKAGING: 18 ml/0.6 fl. oz. airless pump bottle POA – 12 Months INSTRUCTIONS: Apply small amount to skin. Add water and smooth over face. Keep out of tear ducts. May be used under eyes, on lips and throat. This product can be used as a layer under other moisture products or alone as a liquid moisturizer for sensitive skin. Squalane: olive – derived ingredient which is a natural hydrocarbon and is a component of human sebum. It is used for lipid replacement when skin is naturally oil-dry or compromised from a strong treatment Jojoba: a wax ester derived from a desert shrub type plant. It is similar in chemical structure to components of human sebum. It penetrates rapidly, while leaving an emolliency on skin. Argan Oil: extracted from a long-living tree, largest source from Morocco. Contains antiinflammatory and anti-microbial and nutritive properties along with strong emolliency promoting tissue and hair structure health Cholecalciferol: vitamin D3 is similar in structure to steroids, such as cortisol. It has been shown to be beneficial topically against psoriasis and other skin conditions. 14 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: bio repair spray Oxygenating spray for soothing hydration with anti-microbial benefits. bio repair oxygen spray is a time-released product combining vitamin C and oxygen to soothe and nourish wounded skin. The product is appropriate immediately after microdermabrasion and other cosmetic procedures which elicit redness, irritation and inflammation. The oxygen aides in the skin’s natural defense and rebuilding process, while the Whole Leaf Aloe Vera Gel, Vitamin C and Glycerin act synergistically in soothing inflammation and irritation common to many cosmetic surgery procedures. PACKAGING: 120 ml/4.0 fl. oz. pump bottle Can be used by any skin but is especially useful for post treatment skin. INSTRUCTIONS: Spray on the skin as often as needed to hydrate, soothe and refresh. Formulated to relieve inflammation post treatment, sunburn or other irritations, or as a refreshing moisturizing mist. Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrogen Peroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Benzoate and Gluconolactone, Sodium PCA, Ascorbic Acid, Potassium Chlorate, Citric Acid SC840 KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: a high mannin (carbohydrate) content ingredient naturally derived and carefully extracted to maintain potency, used for its ability to attract moisture which is critical for a healing environment. Hydrogen Peroxide: a bleaching and oxidizing agent, detergent,and antiseptic. Generally recognized as a safe preservative,germ killer, and skin bleacher in cosmetics Gluconolactone: is a type of polyhydroxy acid, or PHA with similar benefits to AHAs. The molecules of glucolactone are larger with a chemical structure that attracts and holds more water. This makes them well-suited for dry and sensitive skin. Gluconolactone is also an antioxidant and antiinflammatory that helps to protect skin against the harmful effects of free radicals created by sun exposure. Because gluconolactone reduces inflammation, it may be helpful for treating acne and rosacea and can lighten skin over time with regular use. 15 2 section PRODUCT: botana-gel cleanser™ – with green tea DESCRIPTION: Mild, gel-based, foamy cleanser containing light alpha and beta hydroxy’s for gentle exfoliation. Calming botanicals and aloe balance moisturize, while removing oil, makeup, and cellular debris. Anti-microbial ingredients inhibit bacteria formation. Powerful vitamins and nutrients act as anti-oxidation – includes a strong combination of vitamins C and E plus green tea. RX: A great basic cleanser for most skin types, including photo-damaged, mature, dry, combination, oily, and acneic types. INGREDIENTS: PACKAGING: Water (Aqua), Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Oleamide DEA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Gel, Glycerin, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Extract, Aleurites Moluccana (Kukui Nut) Oil, Cucumis Sativis (Cucumber) Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Sodium Ascorbate (Vitamin C), Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid (Apple Extract), Lactic Acid, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea Leaf) Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil, Polysorbate-20, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sorbic Acid, Essential Oil Fragrance 120 ml/4 fl. oz. airless pump bottle POA – 24 Months SC530 INSTRUCTIONS: Wet hands and apply nickelsize amount to palm using warm water. Work into lather and gently wash skin. Rinse and pat dry. May be used to remove makeup. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Cucumber extract: soothing, tightening, and anti-itching. Contains amino acids and organic acids that are claimed to strengthen the acid mantle. Green tea extract: a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells 16 2 section PRODUCT: C-difference™ – vitamin C lotion DESCRIPTION: Oil-free moisturizer containing firming extracts, polyphenols and vitamin C. Anti-aging compounds, including DHEA, contribute to ultra-moisturizing and firming properties. This silky emulsion is especially appropriate for dry or mature skin types to combat dehydration. It is also an essential part of a program for rosacea and other skin conditions that need capillary defense and modulation. RX: Firming product for all skin types especially mature and environmentally damaged skin as well as for helping to relieve visible redness. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethicone, Glycerol Stearate, Glycerin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, DHEA, Beta Glucosamine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol PACKAGING: 30 ml/1 fl. airless pump bottle POA – 12 Months SC520 INSTRUCTIONS: Apply a dime-size amount to clean, moist skin day or night. May be used as a layer, after a serum and underneath a cream. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Hyaluronic acid: occurs naturally in the dermis and possesses a large molecular structure, holds 100 times its weight in water. When applied to the skin it binds moisture to the skin for immediate smoothness. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate: is a more stable form of Vitamin C (which reacts and degrades with water), the human body does not produce Vitamin C, therefore we must obtain it from diet, supplements and topical products, helps resolve erythema by strengthening the capillary walls. DHEA: an antioxidant which stimulates cellular growth, helps burn wounds heal faster and better. Beta glucosamine: reported to enhance the skin’s natural defense mechanism, which minimizes with age, promotes cellular activity, protects from infection and invasion from free radicals and has healing properties. 17 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: clari-tone serum™ – for even skin tone This serum contains pigment lightening agents to block the overproduction of pigment where it is formed in the basal layer of the skin. A powerful combination of clinically tested ingredients includes kojic acid and azaleic acids. Antioxidant Vitamins A and E give added protection from environmental damage. Salicylic and lactic acid provide an effective delivery system in this serum. These ingredients are also essential in the treatment of acne prevention, so this serum can have dual uses. The pigment blocking agents remain in the cells for a period of time but do not actually bleach them. Exfoliation is necessary to remove old surface pigmentation. Hyperpigmented skin from skin traumas, sun damage, acne scars, surgery, and other pigmentary deviations. Recommended post-treatment after IPL series for hyperpigmentation to increase efficacy of the procedure. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: SC580 INGREDIENTS: PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: Water (Aqua), Azelaic Acid, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Lactic Acid, Kojic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose. 18 ml/0.6 fl. oz. airless pump bottle POA – 6 Months Apply dime-size amount to the face. Allow to dry for two (2) minutes before applying additional topical products. Product should be used in the evening to prevent potential inflammation from the sun. Azaleic acid: is a natural occurring dicarboxy acid that inhibits tyrosinase activity during its use, has exfoliating and disinfecting properties and works best when used with AHA’s. It is also known to help inhibit the formation of acne lesions. Lactic acid (AHA): increases water holding capacity of the corneum layer and acts as a delivery enhancement. Kojic acid: botanically derived skin lightening agent. Ascorbic Acid: vitamin C may help to inhibit excessive pigment formation and brightens skin tone. 18 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: collagen renewal C’reme™ – with epidermal growth factor Vitamin C and Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) combine in a silky, light-weight, yet highly effective moisturizer with skin renewal properties. EGF has been proven in studies to reduce fine lines, actinic lentigines, hyperpigmentation, telangiectasia and tactile skin roughness. Combined with the renewal properties of Vitamin C, and using lactic acid to further enhance skin turnover and delivery, this is a state-of-the-art treatment product. It has a luxurious finish on the skin. This product works well as part of a Vitamin C program with High PotenC Serum™ and C-difference™ lotion, to aid in collagen formation, line and redness reduction and maintaining a healthy, vibrant glow. Normal to dry, environmentally damaged and mature skin. Water (Aqua), Caprilic / Caprate, Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Cetearyl Polyglucose, SC590 Albumin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Fructose, Glucosamine, Teprenone (Renovage™), Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF), Denatured Alcohol, Propanediol, Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Oil, Citrus RX: Reticulata (Tangerine) Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Oil, Paprika. INGREDIENTS: 30 ml/1 fl. oz. acrylic jar PACKAGING: POA – 12 Months Apply to clean skin for day INSTRUCTIONS: KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: and/or nighttime Sodium ascorbyl phosphate: is a more stable form of Vitamin C (which reacts and degrades with water), the repair. human body does not produce Vitamin C, therefore we must obtain it from diet, supplements and topical products, helps resolve erythema by strengthening the capillary walls. Fructose: enhances synthesis of cell wall components; promotes water uptake in cells, it is attracted to the fluids that flow along the basal layer of the skin and causes the Langerhan cells (immune cells), to expand with the increased water uptake, thereby plumping the skin. Glucosamine: strengthens the skin’s immune system and promotes production of connective tissue, especially in the healing process. It works well in conjunction with fructose. Teprenone (Renovage™): improves tissue quality by optimal cell interactions (cell communication). It helps rebalance cell functions (metabolism) and acts like an anti-ageing and stress protector by telomere stabilization and DNA maintenance (cell division). Fights against all signs of ageing: Functional: dehydration, age spots, ineffective barrier function. Structural: ptosis, wrinkles, pores, erythrosis. Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): protein that catalyzes the natural healing process of the cells, promotes increased circulation and the development of collagen. Helps prevent damage from UV exposure, irritants and pollutants which may lead to premature aging. 19 2 section PRODUCT: daily eclipse™ – oil-free sunscreen SPF 30 DESCRIPTION: Oil-free, physical barrier protection cream that uses no chemical sunscreen ingredients in the formula. Instead, it is formulated with micronized titanium dioxide, zinc and zirconium dioxide for broad spectrum filtering (UVA and UVB). Mild barrier protection can be used after any strong skin treatment with no worry of burning or irritation, especially around the eyes. No-oil formula leaves skin smooth without greasy residue. RX: All skin types, especially sensitive and post microdermabrasion, surgery, peel, and/or laser, for irritant barrier and sun protection. May be used on children and adults. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Titanium Dioxide, Cetyl Alcohol, Zinc Oxide, Stearic Acid, 1,2 Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Alumina, Simethicone, Potassium Sorbate, Zirconium Dioxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Watermelon Extract PACKAGING: 50 ml/1.7 fl. oz. airless pump bottle POA – 12 Months SC550 INSTRUCTIONS: Use dime-size amount on fingertips and apply to face, neck and ears. Re-apply frequently depending on activities. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Titanium Dioxide: a naturally occurring mineral that acts as a sun screen and particle barrier to deflect the light away from the area. Zinc Oxide: approved broad spectrum particle barrier for sun protection. Zirconium Dioxide: diamond like particle for sun deflection and even particle distribution. 20 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: derma renewal gel™ Cooling and refreshing moisture in an oilfree gel which combines the time-tested homeopathic ingredients of arnica, calendula, aloe vera gel, and honey to renew the skin following cosmetic skin treatments, skin irritations, burns, pain, and inflamed areas. This cooling and refreshing gel increases the hydration level and promotes healthy cellular renewal. All skin types Water (Aqua), Honey, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate,Sodium PCA, Arnica, Calendula, Chamomile, Phytonadione, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Sodium Benzoate (and) GluconolactoneRosaeodora (Rosewood) Oil, Benzyl Alcohol SC850 PACKAGING: 50 ml/1.7 fl. oz.airless pump bottle INSTRUCTIONS: Apply pea-size amount under both eyes once or twice daily. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Honey: Honey is a natural humectant; it attracts and retains moisture and features a moisture content of 14% to 18%. I addition, it offers a stimulating and toning effect on the skin. It has antimicrobial properties and is safe to use on even the most sensitive skin. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: a high mannin (carbohydrate) content ingredient naturally derived and carefully extracted to maintain potency, used for its ability to attract moisture which is critical for a healing environment. Arnica: botanical with antiseptic, astringent, antimicrobial, anti-infl ammatory properties. Promotes the removal of wastes from the skin and aids in new tissue growth. Calendula: emollient offering healing, soothing, antiseptic, anti-itching and anti-infl ammatory properties. It can be used to improve mild acne, reduce irritation and calm inflammation, and can even improve the condition of chapped and sunburned skin. Calendula is a calming and soothing ingredient that is believed to be safe and gentle for even the most sensitive skin. It may improve the condition of patients diagnosed with eczema when used in conjunction with other treatment options. Chamomile: an effective skin emollient, helping to rehydrate, refresh and smooth dry complexions. Clinical studies have also shown that they are antiseptic and antibacterial, reducing skin infections. They also reduce inflammation, soothing and restoring damaged skin. Azulene, in particular, strengthens capillary walls, which helps blood flow to the skin and encourages the growth of new, healthy skin cells. Chamomile is often used to help relieve skin discomfort and damage caused by overexposure to the sun, eczema, acne inflammation and rosacea breakouts. Phytonadione (Vitamin K): reduces pigment deposits and bruising caused by “leaky” blood vessels. 21 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: eye-radiance K’reme™ – with grape seed extract Eye care for dark circles and puffiness. Luxurious cream illuminates under-eye area with light diffusing, natural pigments. Supports healthy capillary function, which may help against formation of dark circles, while helping to reduce actual pigment deposits with a combination of proven peptide and botanical ingredients. All skin types to reduce puffiness and the appearance of dark circles under the eyes. Water (Aqua), Glycol Distearate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Titanium Dioxide, Stearic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Phytonadione (Vitamin K), Cetearyl Alcohol, Deuterium Oxide, Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed) Extract, Resveratrol, Polysorbate 60, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Steareth-20, Hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin (Haloxyl™), Palmitoyl Oligo Peptide, Palmitoyl SC600 PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: Tetrapeptide-3, Tagetes Minuta (Calendula) Flower Oil, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Oil, Benzyl Alcohol 18 ml/0.6 fl. oz.airless pump bottle POA – 9 Months Apply pea-size amount under both eyes once or twice daily. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Titanium dioxide: a naturally occurring mineral that acts as a sun screen and particle barrier to deflect the light away from the area. Alpha-Arbutin: blocks epidermal melanin synthesis by inhibiting enzymatic oxidation of Tyrosine and Dopa. It is the more effective, faster and safer approach to promoting skin-brightening and an even skin tone on all skin types. It also minimizes liver spots and meets all the requirements of a modern skin-brightening and skin depigmentation product. Vitamin K: reduces pigment deposits and bruising caused by “leaky” blood vessels. Grape seed extract: considered counterirritant with soothing and antibacterial properties. Resveratrol: a phytoalexin that is produced in plants in response to environmental, insect or animal stress. Grape skins are good sources. Resveratrol demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects, in addition to anti-mutagenic activity. It supports the capillaries and health of the skin from free-radical damage. Resveratrol might be used as an ingredient to calm the skin after microdermabrasion treatments or other exfoliation procedures. Chrysin (Haloxyl™): lessens under eye dark circles by reinforcing firmness and tone of the eye area. Ingredients activate the elimination of blood originated pigments responsible for dark circle color and local inflammation. Palmitoyl Oligo Peptide: a synthetic peptide used in anti-aging products. It is said to help smooth and reduce the appearance of wrinkles as well as repair age-related skin problems by stimulating collagen production. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3: a peptide that has been proven to improve skin elasticity and firmness. Ti also hydrates, smoothes, and protects the skin. An additional anti-inflammatory activity is attributed to its ability to control the secretion of specific chemicals responsible for skin aging (i.e. cytokines and specifically interleukin-6), and hence it may function in a manner similar to the anti-aging hormone, DHEA. Arnica Montana Flower Extract: botanical with antiseptic, astringent, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory properties. Promotes the removal of wastes from the skin and aids in new tissue growth. 22 2 section PRODUCT: gentle cleansing bar DESCRIPTION: A mild glycerin and coconut oil cleansing bar which contains no detergents. Fruit sugars hydrate and botanicals gently cleanse to create a superior skin conditioning effect for post-traumatic skin conditions. RX: Any skin type, especially sensitive, dry and post-treatment. INGREDIENTS: Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitol, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, CocoCaprylate/Caprate, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium PCA, Fructooligosaccarides, Glucosamine HCI, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Canaga Odorata (YlangYlang) Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia SC650 PACKAGING: (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Lecithin, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Alcohol Denat, Benzyl Alcohol bar POA – 12 Months INSTRUCTIONS: Use as part of post peel or laser treatment follow-up home care regimen. Create a lather with water, apply to skin and gently cleanse with fingertips. Rinse well. May be used in the KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: morning and the Sodium PCA: a high performance humectant due to its moisture binding abilities. It exists evening. Will not naturally in the skin as a component of the natural moisturizing factors. It is derived from amino cause irritation or acids and is considered noncomedogenic and nonallergnic and therefore is recommended for dry, drying. delicate, and sensitive skin. Fructooligosaccarides: naturally occurring carbohydrates that promote healthy surface bacteria that protect the skin from harmful bacteria invasions Glucosamine: a 6-carbon amino sugar occurring throughout nature; has the potential to deliver important skin care benefits, such as barrier enhancement, moisturization and tone evenness. Mango Extract: associated with various benefits, including antioxidant properties and skin softening and smoothing thanks to natural enzymatic activity. Essential Oils (YlangYland, Bergamot,Tangerine, Lime): for natural fragrance. 23 2 section PRODUCT: green tea toner – with glycolic DESCRIPTION: Glycolic toner combines a synergistic combination of hazelnut oil, hazelnut extract and witch hazel which creates superior skin softening and firming. Green tea extract, grape seed oil and vitamin C provide anti-oxidant protection and astringency to tone. Glycolic acid is added to loosen cellular debris, cut oil and encourage cell turnover. After use, skin feels smooth and taut but never dry. RX: Most skin types (that tolerate glycolic acid). May be used as part of an antiaging program to help accelerate skin turnover. Can also be used as an antiacne treatment to encourage release of cellular impactions and remove oil. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Hamamalis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Glycerin, Corylus Avellana (Hazelnut) Oil, Corylus Avellena (Hazelnut) Extract, Glycolic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed) Oil, Camellia Oliefera SC640 PACKAGING: (Green Tea) Extract, Sodium Ascorbate (Vitamin C), Potassium Sorbate, Benzyl PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorophyll 120 ml/4 fl. oz. airless pump bottle POA – 9 Months INSTRUCTIONS: Follow cleansing product with green tea toner on cotton pad. Keep out of eyes. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: For most skin types, Hazelnut Oil: a carrier oil credited with nourishing properties. As a carrier, it imparts excellent use once daily. For lubricity, pale color, and low odor. This oil may be used in products designed for dry skin. but is oily skin, use after beneficial to all skin types. each cleansing. Hazelnut Extract: said to have astringent properties. Hazelnuts are rich in fatty acids, vitamins B and E and many essential minerals. Grape Seed Oil: an antioxidant, that promotes capillary strength, wound healing and helps decrease bruising. Green Tea Extract: a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. It contains astringent and anti-inflammatory properties. Vitamin C: an antioxidant that is water soluble, which means, it has 10-12 hours of effect. When applied topically it can help discourage the affects of the sun. Helps in the repair of collagen, 24 firming and anti-aging, and also helps the hyperpigmentation of the sun. 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: green tea vita-E moisturizer™ – with cucumber Moisturizer with a soft whipped gel/ cream consistency that hydrates, soothes and calms skin. Light enough to wear day or night as a moisturizer or as repair for stressed skin. Contains soothing cucumber and calendula extracts and vitamin E to calm irritations. Green tea extract is a powerful antioxidant appropriate for providing protection against environmental stress. RX: For all skin types as a daily moisturizer. Use on all skin types when stressed from topical irritations, overuse of anti-aging or acne products, sunburn, etc. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cellulose, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower Seed) Oil, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower Seed) Oil, Allantoin, Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit (Shea Butter), Tocopherol, Camellia KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: SC540 PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: Oleifera (Green Tea) Oil, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Fructose, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Gluconolactone, Glyceryl Monostearate, Benzyl PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Chlorophyll 30 ml/1 fl. oz. acrylic jar POA – 12 Months Apply dime-size amount to moist skin in the morning and/or evening. Aloe: an emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, healing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Allantoin: botanical extract that is healing and soothing, aids in the healing of damaged skin by stimulating new tissue growth. Shea butter: non-comedogenic emollient derived from a natural fat of the karite tree, protects skin from dehydration, prevents erythema, neutralizes free radicals and prevents lipid-peroxidation. Tocopherol: commonly used to replace vitamin E, it is a more stable form and is converted to Vitamin E in the body, non-comedogenic antioxidant that is fat soluble, which means, it will stick around longer than water-soluble, a very powerful tool in protection for skin. It will help the body repair itself and help prevent appearances of wrinkles. Green tea oil: a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. Cucumber Extract: soothing, tightening, and anti-itching. Contains amino acids and organic acids that are claimed to strengthen the acid mantle. Calendula: emollient said to have healing, soothing, antiseptic, anti-itching and anti-inflammatory properties. 25 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: high potenC serum™ The essential element of any skincare program is to support and replace necessary constituents of collagen, elastin and vascular protection. This botanical powerhouse formula features vitamin C in a polyphenol blend of green tea, resveratrol (red wine extract) and grape seed extract, which work synergistically to make skin more flexible with fewer visible lines and nourished capillaries. These antioxidant superstars offer environmental protection and leave skin illuminated. Any skin type, especially for those over 35, with photo damaged skin and visible capillaries. Water (Aqua), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Glucosamine HCI, Fructooligosaccharides, Resveratrol, Vitis Vinifera (Grape Seed) Extract, Xanthan Gum 18 ml/0.6 fl. oz. airless pump bottle SC620 PACKAGING: POA – 6 Months INSTRUCTIONS: Apply a pea size to face and another to neck area. Blend into skin before applying moisture products and sunscreen. Use daily in the morning. Do not apply to thin skin of upper eyelids. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): a powerful antioxidant. . It also has anti-inflammatory activity to help with the healing process. Resveratrol: a phytoalexin that is produced in plants in response to environmental, insect or animal stress. Grape skins are good sources. Resveratrol demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects, in addition to anti-mutagenic activity. It supports the capillaries and health of the skin from free-radical damage. Resveratrol might be used as an ingredient to calm the skin after microdermabrasion treatments or other exfoliation procedures. Grape Seed Extract: an antioxidant, that promotes capillary strength, wound healing and helps decrease bruising. Green Tea Extract: is a potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. 26 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: daily eclipse duo™ Color from nature for a natural, unspoiled look – yet surprisingly great coverage. This specially bonded, loose and freeflowing powder is concealer, foundation and finishing treatment in one. Crushed mineral pigments are highly refined and blended to reflect light, yet let natural skin tones show. Skin looks radiant. Completely hypo-allergenic and free of all fillers, binders and oils, this makeup can be used by all ages, on all skin types, for every condition. This foundation contains no caking agents to sit in lines and pores on skin. Available 3 shades: light, medium and dark. RX: All skin types. INGREDIENTS: Mica, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: DEDL – light DEDM – medium DEDD – dark PACKAGING: daily eclipse: 50 ml/1.7 fl.oz mineral makeup: 7 gr jar brush INSTRUCTIONS: Apply with brush using swirling strokes. Skin should be moist from natural oils or skin preparation such as sun protection or moisturizer for best adherence. To use as concealer, apply with sponge and blend with small brush. This loose foundation may also be applied over other products such as cream base or liquid to give seamless natural looking full coverage. Titanium Dioxide: a naturally occurring mineral that acts as a sun screen and particle barrier to deflect the light away from the area. Zinc Oxide: approved broad spectrum particle barrier for sun protection. 27 2 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: repair bar This natural lecithin, glycerin and coconut oil bar cleanses and treats oily skin and acne conditions, as well as rash and psoriatic plaques. Pumpkin seed oil donates vitamin A, while salicylic acid and resorcinol are anti-acne and antimicrobial ingredients that are keratolytic. Fumaric acid has been used topically to treat psoriasis and it potentiates antimicrobial activity of other ingredients. RX: Any skin type, especially sensitive, acneic and dry. INGREDIENTS: Lecithin, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Kernel Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Water (Aqua), Sorbitol, Sorbitan Oleate, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Fumaric Acid, Evernia Furfuracea (Treemoss) Extract, Salicylic Acid, Resorcinol, Foeniculum Vulgare SC660 PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: (Fennel) Oil, Curcubita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil bar POA – 12 Months Use to cleanse, reduce oil and dead cell buildup. Make a lather with water, apply to skin and gently cleanse with fingertips. Rinse well. May also be left on skin as a mask or even over night to reduce rash or psoriatic plaque buildup. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Salicylic Acid: in small percentages in a cleanser or moisturizer can help keep acne-prone skin clear. It also has some anti-inflammatory properties, as well as antiseptic, antifungal, antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Resorcinol: a keratolytic, removes the surface layer of the skin (the dry, dead cells)), is a t penetrates into the skin, allowing a deeper more even penetration of glycolic or lactic acid, possesses anti-microbial properties. Fennel Oil: described as a cleanser and detoxifier indicated for oily skin types. Pumpkin Seed Oil: an oil that is quickly absorbed by the skin. Pumpkin seed oil is rich in vitamins A, C, E, Zinc, and Omega-3 and Omega-6 essential fatty acids. Lavender Oil: considered an all-purpose oil credited with many therapeutic properties including antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, antispasmodic, balancing, energizing, soothing, healing, tonic, and stimulating 28 2 section PRODUCT: retinyl enzyme treatment – with green tea DESCRIPTION: Enzyme exfoliator plus skin tightening and rejuvenating vitamin A proprietary complex. Enzyme denatures proteins of surface dead cells and also enhances the vitamin A delivery. Green tea is a potent antioxidant and support for skin structures, with a pleasantly light, astringent fragrance. Gentle enough for even sensitive skins, instant results for amazingly smooth, firm, soft and glowing skin. RX: For use by all skin types, especially photo-damaged, dry and mature skin. INGREDIENTS: PACKAGING: Water (Aqua), Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry), Resveratrol Complex, Castor Oil, Polysorbate-20, Cellulose, Retinol, Carbomer, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Extract, Lactic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Chlorophyll Extract 30 ml/1 fl. oz.airless pump POA – 6 Months SC560 INSTRUCTIONS: Apply evenly to clean skin. Leave on for eight to ten (8-10) minutes. Remove with warm water and damp cloth. Rinse again. Keep out of eye area. Use this treatment one (1) to three (3) times per week or as directed by skincare technician. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Cranberry: has antibacterial and antioxidant components, great for acne prone skin types. Resveratrol: a phytoalexin that is produced in plants in response to environmental stress (grape skin are good sources), supports the capillaries and health of the skin from free radical damage, can also calm skin after microdermabrasion treatments and other exfoliation procedures. Retinol: skin conditioning agent, known as a “skin normalizer”, acts as an anti-keratinizing agent, helping the skin to stay soft and plump improving water binding properties, useful against dryness, heat and pollution, increases collagen, skin thickness and elasticity. Green Tea Extract: is a potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. Lactic Acid: an AHA with a larger molecule than glycolic acid, and may not be as irritating as other AHA’s. It increases the water holding capacity of the corneum layer. 29 2 section PRODUCT: vitA-clear serum™ – antioxidant/oil control DESCRIPTION: This serum helps to modulate oil secretions. Vitamin A (retinyl propionate) converts to tretinoic acid in the cells, without causing the extreme surface dryness and erythema that may accompany other retinol topicals. It is an anti-aging and cellular protective serum with revascularizing properties and acts as a powerful antioxidant. This is an important product in acne control. A liposomal delivery system is a part of the ingredient base and uses two potent forms of Vitamin A. RX: Application for oily or acne prone skin daily to reduce sebum production. Important part of an anti-aging routine with proper use. INGREDIENTS: PACKAGING: Water (Aqua), Hamamelis Virginiana, (Witch Hazel) Extract, Glycerin, Retinol, Xanthan Gum, Liposomes (Cholesterol), Glucose, Fructose 18 ml/0.6 fl. oz. airless pump jar POA – 6 Months SC510 INSTRUCTIONS: Apply a dime-size amount for distribution to the entire face. Allow application to dry two (2) minutes before following with an additional topical product. Avoid eye area. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Retinol: this includes two variations of vitamin A – Retinyl Propionate, an ester form of retinol which is generally not as harsh and irritating as other retinols. It converts to tretinoic acid in the cells. Additional retinol palmitate protects skin cells and aids formula penetration to help control acne and oil secretions. 30 Section PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT OVERVIEWS & DIRECTIONS FOR USE PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS antiox-C serum™ argan boost serum™ bio repair oxygen spray botana-gel cleanser™ – with green tea daily eclipse™ – oil free derma renewal gel™ D20 solution glycolic treatment 30% green tea vita-E moisturizer™ – with cucumber hydra-repair mask™ – with red wine extract lactic treatment 30% oxygen cream oxygen serum IPL photo sensitizing prep peel prep retinyl treatment – with green tea treatment neutralizer vitA-clear serum™ – antioxidant/oil control 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: antiox-C serum™ Free radical protection in a silky serum taking anti-aging to the cellular level. This stable, oil soluble, lipid source of Vitamin C delivers strong antioxidant and rebuilding ingredients. Once applied to the skin it hydrolyzes into ascorbic acid and provides skin lightening, promotes collagen synthesis and acts as a strong free-radical scavenger. It has excellent skin affinity, therefore, has superb cutaneous absorption. It goes on like silk and dries to a beautiful and light finish. This fat soluble form of vitamin C has a higher conversion of vitamin C within the dermis, offering long lasting vitamin delivery and penetration. Anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, & dehydrated skin types Dimethicone/Dimethiconal, Cyclomethicone, Tetrahexyl Decyl Ascorbate, Jojoba Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Camellia Sinensis, CoEnzyme Q10, l-Carnitine, SC835 Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Water (and) Hexylene Glycol PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: 120 ml/4 fl. oz bottle Apply in the morning and/ or evening after cleansing. May be used as a layer under your favorite dmSkincare moisturizer. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, used in cosmetics, personal care products and anti-aging products because of its ability to increase collagen levels, reduce melanin production, brighten skin, and repair the effects of UV exposure and other environmental damage. It is also considered to be more potent than L-asorbic acid and other Vitamin C compounds, and has a higher rate of penetration (because it is lipid soluble, like human skin) than other derivatives; it also has a higher rate of conversion to vitamin C within the dermis. Jojoba oil: Jojoba: a wax ester derived from a desert shrub type plant. It is similar in chemical structure to components of human sebum. It penetrates rapidly, while leaving an emolliency on skin. Camellia Sinensis (Green tea extract): a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells 33 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: argan boost serum™ This serum is a light, non-greasy lipid barrier replacement in a water miscible form. It incorporates natural and organic ingredients specially chosen for ultrasensitive skin. Argan Oil, Squalene and Jojoba mimic the skins own oils to protect the barrier and hold natural moisture in. Argan Oil has been shown to have regenerative and anti-microbial properties. Vitamin D, a signaling hormone, may promote cell immunity and has been used topically to treat skin conditions such as psoriasis. Can be used by any skin but is especially useful for sensitive, dry and eczema skin types. This product should be used post-treatment (IPL/chemical peel/deep microderm) to aid in the healing process. Use this serum to create a lustrous, glowing appearance to the skin. Squalane, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Oil, Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D-3) KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: SC635 PACKAGING: 60 ml/2 fl. oz. bottle POA – 12 Months INSTRUCTIONS: Apply small amount to skin. Add water and smooth over face. Keep out of tear ducts. May be used under eyes, on lips and throat. This product can be used as a layer under other moisture products or alone as a liquid moisturizer for sensitive skin. Squalane: olive- derived ingredient which is a natural hydrocarbon and is a component of human sebum. It is used for lipid replacement when skin is naturally oil-dry or compromised from a strong treatment Jojoba: a wax ester derived from a desert shrub type plant. It is similar in chemical structure to components of human sebum. It penetrates rapidly, while leaving an emolliency on skin. Argan Oil: extracted from a long-living tree, largest source from Morocco. Contains antiinflammatory and anti-microbial and nutritive properties along with strong emolliency, promoting tissue and hair structure health Cholecalciferol: vitamin D3 is similar in structure to steroids, such as cortisol. It has been shown to be beneficial topically against psoriasis and other skin conditions. 34 3 section PRODUCT: bio repair spray DESCRIPTION: Oxygenating spray for soothing hydration with anti-microbial benefits. bio repair oxygen spray is a time-released product combining vitamin C and oxygen to soothe and nourish wounded skin. The product is appropriate immediately after microdermabrasion and other cosmetic procedures which elicit redness, irritation and inflammation. The oxygen aides in the skin’s natural defense and rebuilding process, while the Whole Leaf Aloe Vera Gel, Vitamin C and Glycerin act synergistically in soothing inflammation and irritation common to many cosmetic surgery procedures. RX: Can be used by any skin but is especially useful for post treatment skin. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrogen Peroxide, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Benzoate and Gluconolactone, Sodium PCA, Ascorbic Acid, Potassium Chlorate, Citric Acid SC845 PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: 480 ml/16 fl. oz. pump bottle Spray on the skin as often as needed to hydrate, soothe and refresh. Formulated to relieve inflammation post treatment, sunburn or other irritations, or as a refreshing moisturizing mist. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: a high mannin (carbohydrate) content ingredient naturally derived and carefully extracted to maintain potency, used for its ability to attract moisture which is critical for a healing environment. Hydrogen Peroxide: a bleaching and oxidizing agent, detergent,and antiseptic. Generally recognized as a safe preservative,germ killer, and skin bleacher in cosmetics Gluconolactone: is a type of polyhydroxy acid, or PHA with similar benefits to AHAs. The molecules of glucolactone are larger with a chemical structure that attracts and holds more water. This makes them well-suited for dry and sensitive skin. Gluconolactone is also an antioxidant and antiinflammatory that helps to protect skin against the harmful effects of free radicals created by sun exposure. Because gluconolactone reduces inflammation, it may be helpful for treating acne and rosacea and can lighten skin over time with regular use. 35 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: botana-gel cleanser ™ – with green tea Mild, gel-based, foamy cleanser containing light alpha and beta hydroxy’s for gentle exfoliation. Calming botanicals and aloe balance moisturize, while removing oil, makeup, and cellular debris. Anti-microbial ingredients inhibit bacteria formation. Powerful vitamins and nutrients act as anti-oxidation – includes a strong combination of vitamins C and E plus green tea. RX: A great basic cleanser for most skin types, including photo-damaged, mature, dry, combination, oily, and acneic types. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Oleamide DEA, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Gel, Glycerin, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Extract, Aleurites Moluccana (Kukui Nut) Oil, Cucumis Sativis (Cucumber) Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Sodium Ascorbate (Vitamin C), Salicylic Acid, Malic Acid (Apple Extract), Lactic Acid, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea Leaf) Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Oil, Polysorbate-20, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sorbic Acid, Essential Oil Fragrance 480 ml/16 fl.oz. POA – 24 Months PACKAGING: SC535 INSTRUCTIONS: Wet hands and apply nickelsize amount to palm using warm water. Work into lather and gently wash skin. Rinse and pat dry. May be used to remove makeup. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Cucumber extract: soothing, tightening, and anti-itching. Contains amino acids and organic acids that are claimed to strengthen the acid mantle. Green tea extract: a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. 36 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: daily eclipse™ – oil-free sunscreen SPF 30 Oil-free, physical barrier protection cream that uses no chemical sunscreen ingredients in the formula. Instead, it is formulated with micronized titanium dioxide, zinc and zirconium dioxide for broad spectrum filtering (UVA and UVB). Mild barrier protection can be used after any strong skin treatment with no worry of burning or irritation, especially around the eyes. No-oil formula leaves skin smooth without greasy residue. RX: All skin types, especially sensitive and post microdermabrasion, surgery, peel, and/or laser, for irritant barrier and sun protection. May be used on children and adults. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Titanium Dioxide, Cetyl Alcohol, Zinc Oxide, Stearic Acid, 1,2 Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Alumina, Simethicone, Potassium Sorbate, Zirconium Dioxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Watermelon Extract 120 ml/4 fl.oz. POA – 12 Months PACKAGING: SC555 INSTRUCTIONS: Use dime-size amount on fingertips and apply to face, neck and ears. Re-apply frequently depending on activities. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Titanium Dioxide: a naturally occurring mineral that acts as a sun screen and particle barrier to deflect the light away from the area. Zinc Oxide: approved broad spectrum particle barrier for sun protection. Zirconium Dioxide: diamond like particle for sun deflection and even particle distribution. 37 3 section PRODUCT: derma renewal gel™ DESCRIPTION: Cooling and refreshing moisture in an oilfree gel which combines the time-tested homeopathic ingredients of arnica, calendula, aloe vera gel, and honey to renew the skin following cosmetic skin treatments, skin irritations, burns, pain, and inflamed areas. This cooling and refreshing gel increases the hydration level and promotes healthy cellular renewal. All skin types RX: SC855 INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Honey, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate,Sodium PCA, Arnica, Calendula, Chamomile, Phytonadione, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Sodium Benzoate (and) GluconolactoneRosaeodora (Rosewood) Oil, Benzyl Alcohol PACKAGING: 480 ml/16 fl. oz.airless pump bottle INSTRUCTIONS: Apply pea-size amount under both eyes once or twice daily. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Honey: Honey is a natural humectant; it attracts and retains moisture and features a moisture content of 14% to 18%. I addition, it offers a stimulating and toning effect on the skin. It has antimicrobial properties and is safe to use on even the most sensitive skin. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice: a high mannin (carbohydrate) content ingredient naturally derived and carefully extracted to maintain potency, used for its ability to attract moisture which is critical for a healing environment. Arnica: botanical with antiseptic, astringent, antimicrobial, anti-infl ammatory properties. Promotes the removal of wastes from the skin and aids in new tissue growth. Calendula: emollient offering healing, soothing, antiseptic, anti-itching and anti-infl ammatory properties. It can be used to improve mild acne, reduce irritation and calm inflammation, and can even improve the condition of chapped and sunburned skin. Calendula is a calming and soothing ingredient that is believed to be safe and gentle for even the most sensitive skin. It may improve the condition of patients diagnosed with eczema when used in conjunction with other treatment options. Chamomile: an effective skin emollient, helping to rehydrate, refresh and smooth dry complexions. Clinical studies have also shown that they are antiseptic and antibacterial, reducing skin infections. They also reduce inflammation, soothing and restoring damaged skin. Azulene, in particular, strengthens capillary walls, which helps blood flow to the skin and encourages the growth of new, healthy skin cells. Chamomile is often used to help relieve skin discomfort and damage caused by overexposure to the sun, eczema, acne inflammation and rosacea breakouts. Phytonadione (Vitamin K): reduces pigment deposits and bruising caused by “leaky” blood vessels. 38 3 section PRODUCT: D2O solution Professional Use Only DESCRIPTION: A liquid infusion of botanical extracts blended with deuterium oxide (“heavy water”), which is naturally occurring at the bottom of lakes and has a “wetter than water” hydration activity. Additional ingredients intensify moisture and oxygen, giving the skin an environment to heal and repair. RX: All skin types. INGREDIENTS: Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Aqua (Water), Glycerin, Sodium PCA, Deuterium Oxide, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Oil, Perflurodecalin, Benzyl Alcohol 480ml/16 fl.oz POA – 12 Months PACKAGING: SC745 INSTRUCTIONS: May be used as a toner after mask removal, in a diffuser or spray. May also be applied as a compress after intensive or thermal treatments, such as IPL, to reduce heat and inflammation. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Sodium PCA: a high performance humectant due to its moisture binding abilities. It exists naturally in the skin as a component of the natural moisturizing factors. It is derived from amino acids and is considered non-comedogenic and non-allergenic and therefore is recommended for dry, delicate, and sensitive skin. Deuterium Oxide: heavy molecular weight delivers moisture deep into skin. Cucumber Extract: has an antibacterial and antioxidant component due to the compound vaccinium, which is very good for acne-prone treatments. Myrrha Extract: skin-conditioning agent. Perflurodecalin: skin-conditioning agent. 39 3 section PRODUCT: glycolic treatment 30% – PH 2.3 Professional Use Only DESCRIPTION: Medium strength 30% glycolic acid. RX: Glycolic treatment for acne prone or oily skin, fine lines, uneven skin tones, rough, dry or environmentally damaged skin. INGREDIENTS: Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Glycolic Acid, Water (Aqua), Alcohol, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Glucosamine HCI, Fructooligosaccharides, Sales ,Trace Minerals. PACKAGING: 120 ml/4 fl. oz., 4 oz bottle POA – 12 Months INSTRUCTIONS: Apply three to four (3-4) pumps of Glycolic Acid 30% to a closed-weave gauze pad and carefully apply to the skin avoiding the eye area. Leave on for two to three (2-3) minutes, then neutralize. Follow application of neutralizer with cool rinse of clear water. SC705 KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Glycolic acid (AHA): dissolves intercellular cement which is responsible for abnormal keratinization, improves skin hydration, sloughs dead skin cells, cleans pores and smoothes fine lines. 40 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: green tea vita-E moisturizer™ – with cucumber Moisturizer with a soft whipped gel/ cream consistency that hydrates, soothes and calms skin. Light enough to wear day or night as a moisturizer or as repair for stressed skin. Contains soothing cucumber and calendula extracts and vitamin E to calm irritations. Green tea extract is a powerful antioxidant appropriate for providing protection against environmental stress. RX: For all skin types as a daily moisturizer. Use on all skin types when stressed from topical irritations, overuse of antiaging or acne products, sunburn, etc. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cellulose, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower Seed) Oil, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower Seed) Oil, Allantoin, Butyrospermum Parkii Fruit (Shea Butter), Tocopherol, Camellia SC545 PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: Oleifera (Green Tea) Oil, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Fructose, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Gluconolactone, Glyceryl Monostearate, Benzyl PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Chlorophyll 120ml/4 fl.oz jar POA – 12 Months Apply dime-size amount to moist skin in the morning and/or evening. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Aloe: an emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, healing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Allantoin: botanical extract that is healing and soothing, aids in the healing of damaged skin by stimulating new tissue growth. Shea butter: non-comedogenic emollient derived from a natural fat of the karite tree, protects skin from dehydration, prevents erythema, neutralizes free radicals and prevents lipid-peroxidation. Tocopherol: commonly used to replace Vitamin E, it is a more stable form and is converted to Vitamin E in the body, non-comedogenic antioxidant that is fat soluble, which means, it will stick around longer than water-soluble, a very powerful tool in protection for skin. It will help the body repair itself and help prevent appearances of wrinkles. Green tea oil: a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. Cucumber Extract: soothing, tightening, and anti-itching. Contains amino acids and organic acids that are claimed to strengthen the acid mantle. Calendula: emollient said to have healing, soothing, antiseptic, anti-itching and anti-inflammatory properties. 41 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: hydra-repair mask™ – with red wine extract Professional Use Only This creamy, hydrating mask works to visibly reduce pores and immediately improve minor irritations and refine texture. Helps to calm irritable skin and may be used after an aggressive treatment. It also works well to reduce stress from acne, sunburn and other irritable skin conditions. It can be used for at-home care and between treatments to help keep skin in a refined condition. Red wine extract has an anti-inflammatory quality, while squalene and jojoba are added to soothe and replace the lipid barrier to help hold in the skin’s own natural moisture factor. Any skin type, especially irritated, dry, photo-damaged and post-treatment skin. Water (Aqua), Stearic Acid, Kaolin, Titanium Dioxide, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cellulose, Helianthus Oil, Carthamus Tinctorus Oil, Allantoin, Potassium Carbonate, Glycerin, Sodium KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: SC615 PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: Borate, 1,2 Hexanediol, Squalane, Jojoba (Buxux Cheninsis), Resveratrol, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Calcium Gluconate 120ml/4 fl.oz jar POA – 9 Months Apply a liberal amount to clean skin and leave on for ten (10) minutes. After ten (10) minutes, add water to fingertips and massage into a lather. Rinse and remove excess with damp cloth. Rinse again and pat dry. Kaolin: has great absorption abilities making it an appropriate absorber of the oil and sweat secreted by the skin. Aloe: an emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, healing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Its moisturizing ability is its most widely recognized characteristic. Squalene: excellent moisturizer and lubricant, is an oxygenator and cancer fighter, it holds moisture to the epidermal lipid layer, helps keep skin supple and smooth and guards against UV radiation. Jojoba: naturally occurring oil that resembles the skin’s sebum, reputed to have healing qualities and studies have shown that it penetrates the stratum corneum rapidly to reduce transepidermal water loss. Resveratrol: derived from red wine extract, a phytoalexin that is produced in plants in response to environmental stress (grape skins are good sources), supports the capillaries and health of the skin from free radical damage, can also calm skin after microdermabrasion treatments and other exfoliation procedures. 42 3 section PRODUCT: lactic treatment 30% PH 2.3 Professional Use Only DESCRIPTION: Medium strength 30% lactic acid RX: Lactic treatment for sensitive skin with fine lines, uneven skin tones, rough, dry or photo-damaged skin. INGREDIENTS: Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Lactic Acid, Water (Aqua), Alcohol, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Glucosamine HCI, Fructooligosaccharides, Sales (Trace Minerals) PACKAGING: 120ml/4 fl.oz, 4 oz bottle POA – 12 Months INSTRUCTIONS: Apply three to four (3-4) pumps of Lactic Acid 30% to a closed-weave gauze pad and carefully apply to the skin avoiding the eye area. Leave on for two to three (2-3) minutes then neutralize. Rinse to remove neutralizer, re-rinse and pat dry. SC715 KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Lactic acid (AHA): increases water holding capacity of the corneum layer. Concentrations of 5% and above provide improvement of fine lines for softer, smoother skin. 43 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: oxygen cream Professional Use Only A skin brightening cream with multiple activities and applications, combining vitamin A and glycolic acid and accelerated by peroxide which provides water and oxygen at the cellular level. This treatment cream acts as a delivery agent for vitamin serums and intensifies facial treatments. It creates an immediate skin lifting and visible glow. RX: Normal, oily, photo – damaged, and acneic skin. Use with caution on extremely sensitive or individuals with rosacea. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogen Peroxide, Butylene Glycol, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Glycolic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Potassium Sorbate 120 ml/4 fl.oz POA – 9 Months PACKAGING: SC765 INSTRUCTIONS: Apply as directed in protocols. May be used with acne facials, hydrating facials and antiaging treatments. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Retinol: skin conditioning agent, known as a “skin normalizer”, acts as an anti-keratinizing agent, helping the skin to stay soft and plump improving water binding properties, useful against dryness, heat and pollution, increases collagen, skin thickness and elasticity. Glycolic Acid: dissolves intercellular cement which is responsible for abnormal keratinization, improves skin hydration, sloughs dead skin cells, cleans pores and smoothes fine lines. 44 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: oxygen serum Professional Use Only This serum uses silk amino acids and squalane to create a satiny finish on the skin. Deuterium oxide, sodium hyaluronate and perfluorodecalin provide a super hydration and oxygenated environment to plump tissue and fill lines and wrinkles. Skin feels smoother and moist for days with one application. Perfect for anti-aging applications. RX: Dry, sensitive, mature, normal skin. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Deuterium Oxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Silk Amino Acids, Squalane, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Glycerin, Perfluorodecalin, Carbomer, Silica, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate 60 ml/2 fl. oz. POA – 6 Months PACKAGING: SC775 INSTRUCTIONS: Apply dime size to face (including eye area). May apply additional product to the neck. Use as part of treatment protocol, applying as a layer whenever intense hydration is beneficial. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Deuterium Oxide: heavy molecular weight delivers moisture deep into skin. Sodium Hyaluronate: used as a moisturizing agent, viscosifier, and emulsifier; capable of binding 1,800 times its own weight in water. It is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Silk Amino Acids: a silk-derived protein resulting from the complete hydrolysis of silk. Protects the skin from dehydration and leaves it with a smooth feel. Squalane: an oxygenator and cancer fighter, it holds moisture to the epidermal lipid layer, and helps keep skin supple and smooth and guards against UV radiation. Perfluorodecalin: skin-conditioning agent. 45 3 section PRODUCT: IPL photo sensitizing prep Professional Use Only DESCRIPTION: Solution for creating more photoavailable pigment and capillaries. Used for pre-treatment of IPL and other PDT (photo dynamic therapy). RX: Any skin type as pre-treatment. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Niacinamide, Ascorbic Acid, Resorcinol, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Glycerin, Lactic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol 120 ml/4 fl.oz, 4 oz bottle POA – 6 Months PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: SC780 Saturate gauze and apply to face. Allow to activate for about ten (10) minutes before starting light therapy treatment. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Niacinamide: used as a skin stimulant and skin smoother, it is a derivative of niacin, and part of the vitamin B family. Ascorbic Acid: skin lightening and antioxidant properties, protect against free radical formation. Resorcinol: removes the surface layer of the skin (the dry, dead cells), is a beta hydroxy that penetrates deeper into the skin, allowing a deeper more even penetration of glycolic or lactic acid, possesses anti-microbial properties. 46 3 section PRODUCT: peel prep Professional Use Only DESCRIPTION: Prepares skin for treatment by softening and disencrusting the skin. RX: Treatment to skin prior to treating with glycolic or lactic acid. May be used to loosen debris prior to extractions. Especially important part of acne protocol to help remove impactions in pores INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Ascorbic Acid, Resorcinol (8%), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Glycerin, Niacin, Lactic Acid, Sales (Trace Minerals), Benzyl Alcohol 120 ml/4 fl.oz, 4 oz bottle POA – 6 Months PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: SC725 Apply three to four (3-4) pumps of Peel Prep solution to a closed-weave gauze pad and apply to the skin in a buffing motion, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for two to three (2-3) minutes. Remove with a dry, open-weave gauze pad in a vigorous buffing motion until skin is no longer tacky to the touch. Also may be applied under steam prior to extractions. Reapply as necessary during extraction procedure. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Resorcinol: removes the surface layer of the skin (the dry, dead cells), is a beta hydroxy that penetrates deeper into the skin, allowing a deeper more even penetration of glycolic or lactic acid, possesses anti-microbial properties. 47 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: RX: INGREDIENTS: PACKAGING: retinyl enzyme treatment – with green tea Enzyme exfoliator plus skin tightening and rejuvenating vitamin A proprietary complex. Enzyme denatures proteins of surface dead cells and also enhances the vitamin A delivery. Green tea is a potent antioxidant and support for skin structures, with a pleasantly light, astringent fragrance. Gentle enough for even sensitive skins, instant results for amazingly smooth, firm, soft and glowing skin. For use by all skin types, especially photo-damaged, dry and mature skin. Water (Aqua), Vaccinium Macrocarpan (Cranberry), Resveratrol Complex, Castor Oil, Polysorbate-20, Cellulose, Retinol, Carbomer, Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Extract, Lactic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Chlorophyll Extract 60ml/2 fl. oz. POA – 6 Months SC565 INSTRUCTIONS: Apply evenly to clean skin. Leave on for (8-10) minutes. Remove with warm water and damp cloth. Rinse again. Keep out of eye area. Use this treatment one (1) to three (3) times per week or as directed by skincare technician. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Cranberry: has antibacterial and antioxidant components, great for acne prone skin types. Resveratrol: a phytoalexin that is produced in plants in response to environmental stress (grape skin are good sources), supports the capillaries and health of the skin from free radical damage, can also calm skin after microdermabrasion treatments and other exfoliation procedures. Retinol: skin conditioning agent, known as a “skin normalizer”, acts as an anti-keratinizing agent, helping the skin to stay soft and plump improving water binding properties, useful against dryness, heat and pollution, increases collagen, skin thickness and elasticity. Green Tea Extract: is a potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. Lactic Acid: an AHA with a larger molecule than glycolic acid, and may not be as irritating as other AHA’s. It increases the water holding capacity of the corneum layer. 48 3 section PRODUCT: treatment neutralizer Professional Use Only DESCRIPTION: A product to neutralize glycolic or lactic acids after a treatment. RX: For skin treated with Glycolic or Lactic acid. INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Sodium Bicarbonate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol SC620 480 ml/16 fl. oz, 16 oz bottle POA – 6 Months PACKAGING: INSTRUCTIONS: Saturate a closed-weave gauze pad with Neutralizer and generously apply to face after AHA application is timed out. Avoid the eye area. Rinse with water and pat dry. SC735 KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Glycerin: a corn derived emulsifier and humectant. Sodium Bicarbonate: used to buffer pH of acids. 49 3 section PRODUCT: DESCRIPTION: vitA-clear serum™ – antioxidant/oil control This serum helps to modulate oil secretions. Vitamin A (retinyl propionate) converts to tretinoic acid in the cells, without causing the extreme surface dryness and erythema that may accompany other retinol topicals. It is an anti-aging and cellular protective serum with revascularizing properties and acts as a powerful antioxidant. This is an important product in acne control. A liposomal delivery system is a part of the ingredient base and uses two potent forms of vitamin A. RX: Application for oily or acne prone skin daily to reduce sebum production. Important part of an anti-aging routine with proper use INGREDIENTS: Water (Aqua), Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract, Glycerin, Retinol, Xanthan Gum, Liposomes (Cholesterol), Glucose, Fructose 60 ml/2 fl. oz, 2 oz bottle POA – 6 Months PACKAGING: SC515 INSTRUCTIONS: Apply a dime-size amount for distribution to the entire face. Allow application to dry two (2) minutes before following with an additional topical product. Avoid eye area. KEY INGREDIENT DESCRIPTIONS: Retinol: this includes two variations of vitamin A – Retinyl Propionate, an ester form of retinol which is generally not as harsh and irritating as other retinols. It converts to tretinoic acid in the cells. Additional retinol palmitate protects skin cells and aids formula penetration to help control acne and oil secretions. 50 Section PROFESSIONAL PROCEDURE PROTOCOLS 4 section Hydra Bright Facial Hydra Bright Facial is a procedure that will add maximum hydration and oxygen to plump tissues and brighten appearances. It incorporates D20 solution, a liquid infusion of botanical extracts blended with deuterium oxide (“heavy water”) for intense moisture. The oxygen cream is a skin brightening cream with multiple activities and applications, combining vitamin A and glycolic acid and accelerated by peroxide which provides water and oxygen at the cellular level. This cream acts as a delivery agent for vitamin serums creates an immediate skin lifting and visible glow. The oxygen serum uses silk amino acids and squalane to create a satiny finish on the skin and provide a super hydration and oxygenated environment to plump tissue and fill lines and wrinkles. This combination will provide measurable results for almost any skin type. You will need the following products: botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea Steamer (Optional) peel prep gauze MegaPeel EX® Microdermabrasion System D20 solution oxygen serum oxygen cream daily eclipse™–oil free sunscreen SPF 30 PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea. Massage gently over face to cleanse and remove makeup. 2. peel prep Option #1 - Using a steamer. Apply steam to soften sebum. peel prep is applied with a fan brush while under steam. Turn steam off and buff skin dry with open weave gauze. Follow with extractions if appropriate. Option #2 - Apply peel prep solution to a 4x4 gauze pad and apply to the skin in a buffing motion, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for 2-3 minutes. Remove with a clean and dry 4x4 gauze pad in a vigorous buffing motion until the skin is no longer tacky to the touch. 3. MegaPeel EX® Microdermabrasion Procedure. Dry the skin thoroughly prior to treatment. Make 2 passes over the skin. Treat the entire face vertically the first time, horizontally the second time. Pull the skin taut – in the same direction the hand-piece is moving – as you treat in that area. Slowly glide the hand-piece over the skin back and forth over the area. Dust any particles off the skin. 4. D20 solution Make compresses with D2O and soft, 3 x 3 closedweave gauze. Apply to entire face, covering eyes. Leave nostrils uncovered. Allow to soak into skin for about three to four (3-4) minutes. As an alternative, if oxygen tanks are available, diffuse D2O through spray with oxygen onto skin. 5. oxygen serum While skin is still damp, apply a thin, even layer of oxygen serum to entire face, including under eyes and on lips. 6. oxygen cream Immediately following the oxygen serum apply an even layer like a light mask of oxygen cream. Leave on the skin for 5 minutes. Skin may tingle and flush temporarily. Remove residue by gently wiping with gauze dampened with D2O. 7. Hydrate Reapply oxygen serum, this time allowing it to absorb into the skin. 8. Finish Apply daily eclipse™–oil free to face and décolleté. 9. Home Care Treatment After the treatment advise client to begin application of C-difference™–vitamin C lotion, high potenC serum™ and collagen renewal C’reme™–with epidermal growth factor 53 4 section Blush & Glow Skin Therapy Protocol The Blush & Glow Skin Therapy Protocol is for visible vascularities and hyperpigmentation treatment of rosacea, stimulating collagen and used to improve the appearance of the face, chest and neck area. Pretreatment Medications: acyclovir 1,000 mg. TID. Patient should start medication two (2) days prior to treatment and continue for two (2) days following treatment for total of five (5) days, where herpetic history has been identified. You will need the following products: botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea Ice packs IPL Photo Sensitizing Prep IPL Eye Protection Patches tightly woven 3 x 3 gauze Quadra Q4 IPL System D20 solution argan boost serum™ derma renewal gel™ daily eclipse™–oil free sunscreen SPF 30 Protection Eye Glasses for technician PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea. Massage gently over face to cleanse and remove makeup. Remove with water and pat dry. 2. Cool area being treated Apply ice pack to each area of face or chest to be treated. 3. IPL photo sensitizing prep Saturate a tightly woven 3 x 3 gauze pad with IPL photo sensitizing prep and apply to face, using light pressure. Allow to remain on skin for about eight to ten (8-10) minutes. 4. IPL Treatment Preparation Place IPL Eye Protection Patches on patient. Triangular folded gauze or photo protective goggles may be placed over the IPL Eye Protection Patches. Test IPL System settings (see recommendation for skin type and indication). Wait two (2) minutes for erythema or darkening of pigmented areas. 5. IPL Treatment Work in sections, starting with one side of face from mandible to orbital, moving to medial areas (this will generally all be the same setting). Follow with medial section of face including oral and nose sections. Move to the other side of face. Finish with forehead, before moving to neck. Reapply ice pack as needed when moving from one area to the next. Test patch each area for appropriate settings.** ** Forehead section may be 1 or 2 settings less than face, especially if visible pigmentation. ** Neck and chest may be 1 or 2 settings less than face. 6. D20 solution Make compresses with D2O and soft, 3 x 3 closedweave gauze. Apply to apply to areas with erythema. Allow to remain for about 5 minutes. Remove. 7. Hydrate Apply about .5 ml of argan boost serum™ to treated areas. Add small amount of water with fingertips and very gently massage. 8. Calm Apply derma renewal gel™. This cooling and refreshing gel increases the hydration level and promotes healthy cellular renewal. 9. Finish Apply daily eclipse™–oil free to face and décolleté. 54 4 section 10. Immediate Post Treatment After the treatment advise patient to immediately begin application of argan boost Serum™, gentle cleansing bar, and daily eclipse™–oil free to face and décolleté area. ** For patients being treated for capillaries advise patient to use high potenC serum™ and C-difference™–vitamin C lotion for capillary treatments. ** For patients being treated for pigmentation advise patient to use claritone serum™–for even skin lighteningf C-difference™–vitamin C lotion, high potenC serum™ and collagen renewal C’reme™–with epidermal growth factor. Treatment Notes Record settings used for each area in patient record Post-Peel Treatment Products: Instruct patient to use the following products for one (1) week following each treatment and to be followed for one (1) week following the treatment: gentle cleansing bar, argan boost serum™ , daily eclipse™ After Care Instructions (one (1) week after treatment): Daytime: botana-gel cleanser™, high potenC serum™**, C-difference™–vitamin C lotion**, daily eclipse™–oil free, mineral makeup (daily eclipse duo™). **Please note the vitamin c products are especially important after vascular IPL treatment Night time: botana-gel cleanser™ , collagen renewal C’reme™–with epidermal growth factor Follow-up treatments Patient should follow up with treatments at three to four (3-4) week intervals and microdermabrasion at two (2) week intervals after IPL treatment for reds/capillaries to assist in re-absorption. 55 4 section Precision Peel Protocol This highly effective and non-irritating treatment incorporates resorcinol, glycolic acid and retinyl (vitamin A) enzyme for enhanced rejuvenation that can be used independently or prior to microdermabrasion. Precision Peel exfoliates the irregular dead skin cells, promotes cell renewal, stimulates circulation, and promotes the growth of healthy, plump new cells. It will minimize the appearance of fine lines, scars, acne and environmental damage. Lightens pigmentation and evens skin tones. This combination will provide measurable results for almost any skin type. You will need the following products: b otana-gel cleanser™–with green tea water peel prep glycolic acid 30% treatment neutralizer MegaPeel EX® Microdermabrasion System retinyl enzyme treatment – with green tea vitA-clear serum™ daily eclipse™–oil free PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea. Massage gently over face to cleanse and remove makeup. Rinse with water and pat dry. 2. peel prep Apply peel prep solution to a 4x4 gauze pad and apply to the skin in a buffing motion, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for 2-3 minutes. Remove with a clean and dry 4x4 gauze pad in a vigorous buffing motion until the skin is no longer tacky to the touch. 3. glycolic acid 30% Apply glycolic acid* 30% to a 4x4 gauze pad and carefully apply to the skin avoiding the eye area. Leave on for 2-3 minutes. * SENSITIVE TREATMENT OPTION: substitute lactic acid 30% for the glycolic acid 30% 4. Neutralize Saturate a 4x4 gauze pad with treatment neutralizer and generously apply to face, avoiding the eye area. Rinse with water and pat dry. 5. MegaPeel EX® Microdermabrasion Procedure. Make certain the skin is thoroughly dry prior to treatment. When conducting a microdermabrasion treatment it is advised to make two (2) passes over the skin. The first pass should treat the entire face vertically and the second pass should treat the face horizontally. It is very important to pull the skin taut in the area being treated. The skin should be pulled in the same direction the hand piece is moving. Slowly glide the hand piece over the skin back and forth over the area. After treatment is complete, dust skin free of any particles. 6. retinyl enzyme treatment Apply a thin layer of retinyl enzyme treatment* with a 4x4 gauze pad to the entire face, avoiding the eye area. Leave on for 5 minutes. Use a wet 4x4 gauze pad to remove treatment then rinse. Repeat until the skin is no longer sticky. * SENSITIVE TREATMENT OPTION: substitute hydra-repair mask™ for the retinyl enzyme treatment 7. vitA-clear serum™ Apply 3-4 drops of vitA-clear serum™* to the face, avoiding the eye area. Do not massage serum into the face. Allow to dry for 2 minutes before using additional topicals. * SENSITIVE TREATMENT OPTION: substitute green tea vita-E moisturizer™ for the vitA-clear serum D20 Solution 8. Finish Apply daily eclipse™–oil free barrier protection to face and décolleté. 56 4 section Collagen Boost Protocol with Microdermabrasion and IPL Skin therapy for visible skin therapy for collagen remodeling and brown and red chromophores as well. Pretreatment Medications: acyclovir 1,000 mg. TID. Patient should start medication two (2) days prior to treatment and continue for two (2) days following treatment for total of five (5) days, where herpetic history has been identified. You will need the following products: botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea water 4 x 4 gauze glycolic acid 30% treatment neutralizer MegaPeel Microdermabrasion System IPL Photo Sensitizing Prep IPL Eye Protection Patches Protection Eye Glasses for technician Quadra Q4 IPL System Ice packs D20 Solution argan boost serum™ daily eclipse™–oil free PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea. Massage gently over face to cleanse and remove makeup. Remove with water and pat dry. 2. Glycolic Acid 30% Apply 3-4 pumps of Glycolic Acid* 30% to a 4x4 gauze pad and carefully apply to the skin avoiding the eye area. Leave on for 1-2 minutes. * SENSITIVE TREATMENT OPTION: substitute Lactic Acid 30% for the Glycolic Acid 30% 3. Neutralize Saturate a 4x4 gauze pad with Neutralizer and generously apply to face, avoiding the eye area. Rinse with water and pat dry. 4. MegaPeel Microdermabrasion Procedure. Make certain the skin is thoroughly dry prior to treatment. Use moderate setting. When conducting a MegaPeel microdermabrasion treatment it is advised to make two (2) passes over the skin. The first pass should treat the entire face vertically and the second pass should treat the face horizontally. It is very important to pull the skin taut in the area being treated. The skin should be pulled in the same direction the hand piece is moving. Slowly glide the hand piece over the skin back and forth over the area. After treatment is complete, dust skin free of any particles. 5. IPL Photo Sensitizing Prep Saturate a tightly woven 3 x 3 gauze pad with IPL Photo Sensitizing Prep and apply to face, using light pressure. Allow to remain on skin for about eight to ten (8-10) minutes. (Do not remove) 6. IPL Treatment Preparation Place IPL Eye Protection Patches on patient. Triangular folded gauze or photo protective goggles may be placed over the IPL Eye Protection Patches.. 7. Cool Cool the area to be treated with an ice pack for 3 to10 seconds immediately prior to firing the hand piece on the skin. Test IPL System settings (see recommendation for skin type and indication). Wait two (2) minutes for erythema or darkening of pigmented areas 8. IPL Treatment Work in sections, starting with one side of face from mandible to orbital, moving to medial areas (this will generally all be the same setting). Follow with medial section of face including oral and nose sections. Move to the other side of face. Finish with forehead, before moving to neck. Reapply ice pack as needed when moving from one area to the next. Test patch each area for appropriate settings.** ** Forehead section may be 1 or 2 settings less than face, especially if visible pigmentation. ** Neck and chest may be 1 or 2 settings less than face. 57 4 section 9. Cool Immediately cool the area treated with an ice pack for 2 to 5 seconds after firing the hand piece on the skin. 10. D20 Solution Make compresses with D2O and soft, 3 x 3 closedweave gauze. Apply to apply to areas with erythema. Allow to remain for about 5 minutes. Remove. 11. Hydrate Apply about .5 ml of argan boost serum™ to treated areas. Add small amount of water with fingertips and very gently massage. 12. Finish Apply daily eclipse™–oil free to face and décolleté. 13. Treatment Notes Record settings used for each area in patient record. 14. Immediate Post Treatment After the treatment advise patient to immediately begin application of argan boost Serum™, gentle cleansing bar, and daily eclipse™–oil free to face and décolleté area. **For patients being treated for capillaries advise patient to use: Post-Peel Treatment Products: Instruct patient to use the following products for one (1) week following treatment: gentle cleansing bar argan boost serum™ daily eclipse™ After Care Instructions Instruct patient to use the following products starting at seven (7) days post treatment): Daytime: botana-gel cleanser™ high potenC serum™** C-difference™–vitamin C lotion** daily eclipse™–oil free mineral makeup (daily eclipse duo™) **Please note the vitamin c products are especially important after vascular IPL treatment Night time: high potenC serum™ C -difference™–vitamin C lotion for capillary treatments. ** For patients being treated for pigmentation advise patient to use: clari-tone serum™–for even skin lightening C-difference™–vitamin C lotion high potenC serum™ c ollagen renewal C’reme™–with epidermal growth factor botana-gel cleanser™ c ollagen renewal C’reme™–with epidermal growth factor Follow-up treatments Patient should follow up with treatments at three to four (3-4) week intervals and microdermabrasion at two (2) week intervals after IPL treatment for reds/capillaries to assist in re-absorption. 58 4 section Battling Backne Protocol Acne on the back, or “backne” is a common and often embarrassing condition for your clients. The skin on the back is much thicker, and has more oil glands than the skin on the face therefore presenting more cases of patients with active acne on the back. DermaMed’s new microdermabrasion protocol is specifically designed to remove blackheads and clogged pores, which are common complaints of those who suffer from this condition. This protocol utilizes mechanical and topical interventions to manage backne for long-term results. You will need the following products: botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea water 4 x 4 gauze Water peel prep glycolic acid 30% treatment neutralizer MegaPeel EX® microdermabrasion system bio repair oxygen spray™ retinyl enzyme treatment vitA-clear serum™ daily eclipse™–oil free mineral sunscreen SPF30 PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™ with green tea to the entire back. Massage gently to cleanse. Rinse with water and pat dry. 2. peel prep Apply the peel prep to a 4”-by- 4” gauze pad. Work into the skin in a buffing motion. Leave on for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a clean, dry gauze pad, buffing vigorously until the skin no longer feels tacky. 3. glycolic acid 30% Apply glycolic acid 30% on a 4”-by- 4” gauze pad. Carefully apply to the back. Leave on for 2 to 3 minutes. 4. Neutralize Saturate a 4”-by- 4” gauze pad with treatment neutralizer. Generously apply to the back. Rinse with water and pat dry. 5. MegaPeel Microdermabrasion Procedure. Dry the skin thoroughly prior to treatment. Make 2 passes over the skin. Treat the entire back vertically the first time, horizontally the second time. Pull the skin taut – in the same direction the hand-piece is moving – as you treat in that area. Slowly glide the hand-piece over the skin back and forth over the area. Dust any particles off the skin. Spray bio repair spray generously on the back. OPTIONAL: Manual extractions may now be performed as needed. 6. retinyl enzyme treatment Apply a thin layer of retinyl enzyme to the back. Distribute a generous layer over the area of the back being treated. Leave on for 5 minutes. Use a clean, wet 4”-by- 4” gauze pad to remove. Rinse. Repeat until the skin is no longer sticky. (Do this at least 3 times.) 7. vitA-clear serum™ Apply a layer of vitA-clear serum™ to the area of the back being treated. Do not massage the serum into the back. Allow to dry for 2 minutes. OPTIONAL If the client will be out in the sunlight without a shirt, then apply daily eclipse™ - oil free sunscreen barrier protection to any areas on the back that are exposed to sunlight. 59 4 section CONTRAINDICATIONS: Accutane use within one or two years (assessment made by physician) Fitzpatrick skin types IV – VI (may create hyper-pigmentation) Pregnancy or lactation Anyone with an infectious disease Open sores, suspicious lesions, or basal cell carcinoma (Always refer to a physician) After Care Instructions Instruct patient to use dmSkincare’s Acne Kit starting immediately post treatment: vitA-clear serum™ -antioxidant/oil control (18 ml) AHA salicylic solution (50 ml) green tea toner – with glycolic (50 ml) PLUS: dmSkincare’s repair bar Follow-up treatments Patient should follow up with treatments at three to four (3-4) week intervals. 60 4 section Combatting Calluses Protocol A callus is a build up of skin that forms at points of pressure or over boney prominences. Calluses form on the bottom side of the foot from friction and pressure from skin rubbing against boney areas or against an irregularity in a shoe. DermaMed Solutions provides a protocol for a pedicure add-on treatment that will deliver immediate results. By combining microdermabrasion and a chemical peel, this protocol will reveal soft and smooth skin with long-term benefits. You will need the following products: botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea water 4 x 4 gauze Water glycolic acid 30% treatment neutralizer MegaPeel EX® microdermabrasion system bio repair oxygen spray™ retinyl enzyme treatment argan boost serum™ daily eclipse™–oil free mineral sunscreen SPF30 PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™ with green tea to the feet. Massage gently to cleanse. Rinse with water and pat dry. neutralizer. Generously apply to the feet. Rinse with water and pat dry. 4. MegaPeel Microdermabrasion Procedure. This may be performed with an aggressive tip, such as the MegaPeel gold hand-piece and tip. Dry the feet thoroughly prior to treatment. Make 2 passes over the callused areas. Treat each area vertically the first time, horizontally the second time. Slowly glide the hand-piece over the skin back and forth over the area. Dust any particles off the skin. Spray bio repair oxygen spray generously to the feet. 5. retinyl enzyme treatment Apply a thin layer of retinyl enzyme to a 4”-by- 4” gauze pad. Wipe the product over the feet. Leave on for 5 minutes. Use a clean, wet 4”-by- 4” gauze pad to remove. Rinse. Repeat until the skin is no longer sticky. (Do this at least 2 times.) 6. argan boost serum™ Apply about .5 ml of argan boost serum™ to the feet. Gently massage the feet. Place a hot towel over the feet or do a paraffin treatment and leave on for at least 10 minutes. 7. Finish Apply daily eclipse™ - oil free sunscreen barrier protection to the top of the feet if they will be exposed to sunlight. 2. glycolic acid 30% Put glycolic acid 30% on a 4”-by- 4” gauze pad. Carefully apply to the heel and callused areas, which is typically the heel and ball of the foot and the pads of the toes, keeping clear of bunions. Leave on for 3 to 4 minutes. 3. Neutralize Saturate a 4”-by- 4” gauze pad with treatment 61 4 section CONTRAINDICATIONS: Accutane use within one or two years (assessment made by physician) Fitzpatrick skin types IV – VI (may create hyper-pigmentation) Pregnancy or lactation Anyone with an infectious disease Open sores, suspicious lesions, or basal cell carcinoma (Always refer to a physician) After Care Instructions Instruct patient to use the following treatment at home on the feet: AHA salicylic solution. Remove excess with warm wash cloth. Apply argan boost serum™. Follow with a layer of green tea vita-E moisturizer™. Place socks on feet. Follow-up treatments Patient should follow up with treatments at three to four (3-4) week intervals. 62 4 section Helping Hands Protocol Hands are the first give-away to a client’s “real” age, yet most of us are only asked to treat faces and neglect the hands. DermaMed’s microdermabrasion anti-aging hand protocol helps to erase the signs of aging, UV damage and dehydration so your client’s hands will look as young as their face. Hydration, nutrition and UV protection strategies both internal and external are incorporated in a holistic protocol for youthful looking hands. You will need the following products: botana-gel cleanser™–with green tea water MegaPeel EX® microdermabrasion system retinyl enzyme treatment glycolic acid 30% bio repair oxygen spray™ argan boost serum™ To treat hands w/ age spots/hyperpigmentation: clari-tone serum™ and AHA salycilic solution To treat hands for anti-aging: high potenC serum™ and argan boost serum™ argan boost serum™ daily eclipse™–oil free mineral sunscreen SPF30 PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™ with green tea to the hands. Massage gently to cleanse. Rinse with water and pat dry. 2. MegaPeel Microdermabrasion Procedure. MegaPeel EX Settings: 45 kPa using the silver handpiece and clear divided tip. Dry the skin thoroughly prior to treatment. Brace the skin on the hand to be treated first, to ensure patient comfort during the treatment. if possible have client hold a tennis ball or make a fist while performing the treatment. Make 2 passes over the top of the hand, treating vertically the first time, horizontally the second time. Repeat on the other hand. Treat the fingers and juncture between the fingers as well. If hands have calluses on the palms, microdermabrasion settings may be increased to 60 kPa and treated as in the step above. Thoroughly dust skin and crystals off of the skin. 3. retinyl enzyme treatment Apply a thin layer of retinyl enzyme to a 4”-by- 4” gauze pad. Wipe the product over the feet. Leave on for 5 minutes. Use a clean, wet 4”-by- 4” gauze pad to remove. Rinse. Repeat until the skin is no longer sticky. (Do this at least 2 times.) 4. Hydrate Spray hands with bio repair oxygen spray. Massage argan boost serum™ into the hands. Wrap hands with a hot towel, warming mitts or dip hands in paraffin (follow instructions on paraffin bath). Keep on for 5-6 minutes, or during the time when client may be receiving a facial or microdermabrasion treatment on face. 5. To treat hands with age spots and hyperpigmentation: Apply a thin layer of clari-tone serum to the hand. Follow with a layer of AHA salicylic solution. Leave on skin. Follow with Step 7. 6. To treat hands for anti-aging: Apply a thin layer of high potenC serum™ to the hand. Follow with a layer of argan boost serum™. Follow with Step 7. 7. Finish Apply daily eclipse™ - oil free sunscreen barrier protection to the top of the hands. 63 4 section CONTRAINDICATIONS: Accutane use within one or two years (assessment made by physician) Fitzpatrick skin types IV – VI (may create hyper-pigmentation) Pregnancy or lactation Anyone with an infectious disease Open sores, suspicious lesions, or basal cell carcinoma (Always refer to a physician) After Care Instructions For clients looking to lighten spots on the hands recommend a home treatment regimen of: clari-tone serum™ AHA salicylic solution daily eclipse™ - oil free SPF 30 sunscreen For clients looking to anti-age the hand recommend a home treatment regimen of: high potenC serum™ C-difference™ vitamin C lotion daily eclipse™ - oil free SPF 30 sunscreen Follow-up treatments Patient should follow up with treatments at three to four (3-4) week intervals. 64 4 section Smoothing Stretch Marks Protocol DermaMed’s microdermabrasion stretch mark protocol can treat stretch marks, which are long scars buried deep within the skin. Microdermabrasion works the same way for stretch marks as it does for facials. Skin care professionals may increase the power on the microdermabrasion system to treat more severe stretch marks. This allows deeper penetration of the epidermis, and new, healthy cells to grow in place of the scarred skin tissue. Your clients will see them fade and become lighter. You will need the following products: 4x4 Gauze Pad Water botana-gel cleanser™ MegaPeel EX microdermabrasion system bio repair oxygen spray™ high potenC serum™ collagen renewal C’reme™ daily eclipse™–oil free mineral sunscreen SPF30 the surrounding areas of the scar to ensure blending. Dust any particles off the skin. Spray bio repair oxygen spray™ generously on the area treated. 3. high potenC serum™ Immediately apply a liberal amount of the high potenC serum™ all over the area being treated. 4. collagen renewal C’reme™ Follow by a layer of collagen renewal C’reme™ on top of the high potenC serum. 5. To treat hands with age spots and hyperpigmentation: Apply a thin layer of clari-tone serum to the hand. Follow with a layer of AHA salicylic solution. Leave on skin. Follow with Step 7. 6. To treat hands for anti-aging: Apply a thin layer of high potenC serum™ to the hand. Follow with a layer of argan boost serum™. Follow with Step 7. PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™ with green tea to the area being treated. Massage gently to cleanse. Rinse with water and pat dry. 7. Finish Apply daily eclipse™ - oil free sunscreen barrier protection to the top of the hands. 2. MegaPeel EX® Microdermabrasion Procedure. MegaPeel EX® Settings: Silver hand-piece: 45-60 kPa with clear divided tip (on new stretch marks). Gold hand-piece: 50-65 kPa with gold tip (on older stretch marks). Dry the skin thoroughly prior to treatment. Make 2 passes over the skin. Treat the scar vertically the first time, horizontally the second time. Pull the skin taut – in the same direction the hand-piece is moving – as you treat in that area. Slowly glide the hand-piece over the skin back and forth over the area. Microdermabrade 65 4 section CONTRAINDICATIONS: Accutane use within one or two years (assessment made by physician) Fitzpatrick skin types IV – VI (may create hyper-pigmentation) Pregnancy or lactation Anyone with an infectious disease Open sores, suspicious lesions, or basal cell carcinoma (Always refer to a physician) After Care Instructions For better results, instruct patient to use the following products starting immediately post treatment: argan boost serum™ massaged daily into area. high potenC serum™ & collagen renewal C’reme™ - used together at night. daily eclipse™ - oil free SPF 30 sunscreen - if the area treated will be exposed to sunlight. Follow-up treatments Patient should follow up with 2-week intervals for a minimum of 5 treatments. 66 4 section Softening Scars Treatment Protocol Microdermabrasion is an excellent tool for reducing the size and smoothing the texture of post surgical scars. The treatment protocol includes both scar reduction and also stimulation of the surrounding tissue to enhance collagen production to restore flat, smooth skin. Microdermabrasion for acne scars is one of the most effective acne scars removal treatments. Microdermabrasion can be performed to a post-operative or post-trauma scar after the healing process, usually around 8 weeks afterwards. Redness is not contraindicated but petechiae should be avoided when working with new scars. After a scar is at least 1 year old, petechiae is the desired endpoint. time, horizontally the second time. Pull the skin taut – in the same direction the hand-piece is moving – as you treat in that area. Slowly glide the hand-piece over the skin back and forth over the area. Microdermabrade the surrounding areas of the scar to ensure blending. Dust any particles off the skin. Spray bio repair oxygen spray™ generously on the area treated. 3. vitA-clear serum™ Immediately apply a liberal amount of the vitA-clear serum™ all over the area being treated. 4. argan boost serum™ Follow by a layer of argan boost serum™ mixed with the vitA-clear serum™. You will need the following products: 4x4 Gauze Pad Water botana-gel cleanser™ MegaPeel EX® microdermabrasion system bio repair oxygen spray™ vitA-clear serum™ argan boost serum™ daily eclipse™–oil free mineral sunscreen SPF30 5. Finish Apply daily eclipse™ - oil free sunscreen barrier protection to the top of the hands. PROCEDURE 1. Cleansing Apply botana-gel cleanser™ with green tea to the area being treated. Massage gently to cleanse. Rinse with water and pat dry. 2. MegaPeel EX® Microdermabrasion Procedure. MegaPeel EX® Settings: Silver hand-piece: 45-60 kPa with clear divided tip (on new scars). Gold hand-piece: 50-65 kPa with gold tip (on old, heavy or keloid scars). Dry the skin thoroughly prior to treatment. Make 2 passes over the skin. Treat the scar vertically the first 67 4 section Accelerated Reaction Treatment Protocol In the event that a client has an accelerated reaction to a treatment to a professional protocol (such as the Hydra Bright Facial or Precision Peel) follow this protocol for treatment. DAYS 1 - 2 1. Wash with water only. 2. Use Vaseline® or Aquaphor® as needed to protect and soothe skin. 3. Absolutely NO sun exposure DAY 3 1. Use gentle cleansing bar to wash face. 2. Apply argan boost serum™ as needed (3-5 times per day). Can mix with water if preferred. 3. Apply daily eclipse™ if going outdoors. 4. hydra repair mask can be used if no scabs or open skin. Vaseline® works as best balm for any thermal reaction for 2 to 3 days. No soap, just gentle warm cloth soak and Vaseline® light coat. Switch to gentle cleansing bar and argan boost serum™ after day 3 until healed. Hold off on mask until no brown spots or fine scabs. 68 Section SUPPORT SERVICES & ORDER INFORMATION 5 section Glossary of Skin Care Terms Acneic Skin: acne skin is usually oily and distinguished by blackheads and pimples. If neglected and uncared for these blemishes can advance to a worsened stage and leave behind scarred and pitted skin. Acne affects people regardless of age, gender, or race. Factors that affect acne production include heredity, oily skin and bacteria. Algae Extract: an antioxidant that provides assistance in cell renewal and metabolic stimulation. It contains antiinflammatory capabilities and skin restructuring proteins for softening and moisturizing the skin. People who are allergic to shellfish should avoid application of this ingredient. Albumin: the dried whites of eggs. It creates a film, thereby acting as a moisture-retention agent allowing the skin to build up a supply of water. This moisturization process tightens and softens the skin only temporarily as the skin cannot utilize the protein contained in an egg. Alcohol Denat: widely used in the cosmetic industry as an antiseptic as well as a solvent given its strong greasedissolving abilities. It is manufactured by means of the fermentation of starch, sugar, and other carbohydrates. Allantoin: a botanical extract from the comfrey plant root said to be healing, calming, and soothing. It can help protect skin from harmful external factors (e.g., wind burn). It is an excellent temporary anti-irritant and is believed to aid in the healing of damaged skin by stimulating new tissue growth. Non-allergenic. Aloe Vera Gel: an emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, healing, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Its moisturizing ability is its most widely recognized characteristic. Although aloe vera’s important constituents are minerals, polysaccharides, amino acids, and carbohydrates, it is constituted of about 99.5 percent water. Specifically formulated and purified aloe vera is less sensitizing than raw gel. Alpha-Arbutin: a pure, water soluble, biosynthetic active ingredient. Alpha-Arbutin blocks epidermal melanin synthesis by inhibiting enzymatic oxidation of Tyrosine and Dopa. Arbutin appears to have fewer side effects than hydroquinone at similar concentrations - presumably due to the more gradual release. It is the more effective, faster and safer approach to promoting skin-brightening and an even skin tone on all skin types. Alpha-Arbutin also minimizes liver spots and meets all the requirements of a modern skinbrightening and skin depigmentation product. Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA’S): non-toxic substances found in certain food products including grapes, citrus fruits, apples, sugar cane and sour milk. AHA’S affect the epidermis and dermis, causing cells to shed more quickly and certain skin layers to thicken. Glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, mandelic acid and tartaric acid are just some of the AHA’s available. Ammonium Hydroxide: used in cosmetic preparations as an alkali to neutralize excessive acidity in a formulation. Arbutin: bearberry extract, a naturally occurring form of hydroquinone that can inhibit melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Arbutin also lightens existing pigment. Argan: an emollient and skin conditioning oil that protects and moisturizes the skin. Its constituents include tocopherol, phenolic acid, carotenes, and essential fatty acids. It is obtained from the nut of the argan tree. Arnica Extract: (arnica Montana) botanical with antiseptic, astringent, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory properties. Promotes the removal of wastes from the skin and aids in new tissue growth 55 5 section Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): as a skincare ingredient, has skin lightening and antioxidant properties; protects against free radical formation. Azelaic Acid: is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that inhibits tyrosinase activity during its use. It has exfoliating and disinfecting properties and works best when used with AHA’s. Behenyl Alcohol: a binder and an emulsion stabilizer. Used also to increase a formulation’s viscosity. This is a mixture of fatty alcohols. Benzyl Alcohol: a preservative against bacteria, used in concentrations of 1.0 to 3.0 percent. Benzyl PCA: a compound of benzyl alcohol and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a moisturizing active ingredient. considered a ‘green’, safe preservative system. Bergamot Fruit Oil: considered an antiseptic and bacterial growth inhibitor. It is also considered good for oily and acne skin, and for seborrheic conditions. Sun exposure after applying pure bergamot oil, or a compound with a high bergamot oil concentration to the skin, may cause hyperpigmentation and a skin rash. Beta-Fructan: enhances synthesis of cell-wall components; promotes water uptake in cells. Beta-Glucosamine: similar in structure to cellulose, in humans it is used in combination with beta fructan to build stable mucopolysaccharides in the tissue. It is an anti-inflammatory agent and a building block to collagen and elastin. The D-beta isomer is the only isomer that the human body can utilize for this function. reported to enhance the skins natural defense mechanism, which minimizes with age. It promotes cellular activity, protects from infection and invasion from free radicals and has healing properties. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) also known as salycilic acid. Aids exfoliation by weakening the links between cells in the outer layer of dead skin, allowing the normal shedding process to occur at a more optimum rate. By helping new cells surface, it improves skin texture, unclogs pores, enhances penetration (and therefore effectiveness) of ingredients such as Vitamin C. It may also play a role in building skinfirming collagen and elastin, especially when incorporated into a two-step chemical peel. Although synthetic, it is close in structure to an acid that occurs naturally in skin, making it generally nonirritating. Beta Hydroxy Acid is derived from willow bark and birch. Butylene Glycol: a solvent with good antimicrobial action. Also serves as a humectant and viscosity controller, and to mask odor. Calcium Gluconate: Calcium is an essential mineral for the body. A small amount of research shows calcium gluconate may be an effective anti-inflammatory and healing agent when applied topically Calendula Extract: (Calendula officinalis) (marigold) an emollient said to have healing, wound-healing, soothing, antiseptic, anti-itching, and anti-inflammatory properties. Caprylyl Glycol: an emollient with moisturizing properties that may also be used as a cosmetic stabilizer. When found in combination with phenoxyenthanol these two ingredients work together as an antimicrobial. Capric/Caprylic Fatty Acids: are moisturizers derived from milk, which improve permeability barrier of the stratum corneum, and they are also antifungal. Carbomer: used as thickening and suspending agents, and as emulsion stabilizers in cosmetic formulations. Carthamus Tinctorus Oil: an edible vegetable oil. In cosmetics and personal care products, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil is used in the formulation of topical skin care lotions, moisturizers and bath products. 56 5 section Castor Seed Oil: a highly emollient carrier oil that penetrates the skin easily, leaving it soft and supple. It also serves to bind the different ingredients of a cosmetic formulation together. Castor oil is high in glycerin esters of ricinoleic acid. It is rarely, if ever, associated with irritation of the skin or allergic reactions. a component of the fat on the skin’s surface. Considered a noncomedogenic raw material. It may sometimes be obtained from sheep’s wool wax. Chrysin: a natural flavonoid occurring in various plants and foods such as propolis and honey, reportedly opposes inflammation and carcinogenesis. Cellulose: a thickener and an emulsifier obtained from plants. Cetearyl Alcohol: an emulsifying and stabilizing wax produced from the reduction of plant oils and natural waxes. Also used as an emollient and to give high viscosity to a finished product. Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of fatty alcohols consisting primarily of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Cetearyl Glucoside: a corn and coconut derived emulsifier is produced using ecologically-friendly principles, without the use of chemicals or solvents. Also a surfactant. Cetearyl Polyglucose: a surfactant and emulsifier produced from natural or synthetic ingredients. Cetyl Alcohol: a versatile ingredient that can serve as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, binder, foam booster, or emulsion stabilizer, depending on the formulation and need. It is derived from coconut or palm oil as well as being synthetically manufactured. Considered by some sources to by a noncomedogenic material. Chlorphenesin: a preservative with fungistatic and bactericidal properties. Chlorophyll: used as a natural coloring agent. It is credited with skin-soothing and healing properties, thanks to its phytol content, and has a mild deodorizing effect. Chlorophyll is the green coloring matter found in all living plants and seen in plant leaves. Cholesterol: a moisturizer and emollient that acts as a powerful emulsifier in water-in-oil systems. Cholesterol is a fat-like substance found in plant and animal cells. It is also present in the secretion of the sebaceous glands and, therefore, is Citric Acid: derived from citrus fruits, this acid has astringent and antioxidant properties. It can also be used as a preservative with a low sensitizing potential. It is not usually irritating to normal skin, but it can cause burning and redness when applied to chapped, cracked, or otherwise inflamed skin. Cocamidopropyl Betaine: a surfactant derived from a coconut oil salt. It is particularly effective in shampoos, foam baths, shower foams, and other preparations where a high, creamy foam and good skin tolerance are desired. Coco-caprylate/caprate: a light and cosmetically elegant emollient obtained from vegetable sources. Coconut Oil: used as a cream base. A raw material in soaps, ointments, massage creams, and in sunscreen formulations. Soft white or slightly yellow in color and semisolid in consistency, coconut oil is a grouping of primarily shortchain fatty acids bonded with glycerin and expressed from coconut kernels. It is stable when exposed to air. Coconut oil bay be irritating to the skin and cause skin rashes. It is also considered comedogenic. Combination Skin: This skin type has an oily T-zone across the forehead, nose and chin, but a normal to dry area around the cheeks and throat. Another combination pattern is oily along the chin, jaw line and at the temples, but normal to dry skin elsewhere on the face. Commiphora Myrrha Oil: the volatile oil obtained by the steam distillation of Commiphora myrrha (also known as Commiphora molmol and Balsamodendron myrrha). It is 57 5 section classified as an essential oil and is used as a miscellaneous skin-conditioning agent and a fragrance ingredient. It is known as myrrh oil, as well as myrrh absolute. Corn Oil: used as a carrier. This vegetable oil has average emollient properties. Although not particularly prone to cause allergies, it is also not widely used in cosmetic formulations. It is considered somewhat comedogenic. Cranberry Extract: has an antibacterial and antioxidant component due to the compound vaccinium, which is very good for acne-prone treatments. Cucumber Extract: cucumis Sativa, a soothing, tightening, and anti-itching botanical extract. Contains amino acids and organic acids that are claimed to strengthen the acid mantle. Cylceryl Sterate: esterification products of glycerin and stearic acid. Glyceryl Stearate is a white or cream-colored waxlike solid. Glyceryl Stearate SE is a “Self-Emulsifying” form of Glyceryl Stearate that also contains a small amount of sodium and or potassium stearate. In cosmetics and personal care products, Glyceryl Stearate is widely used and can be found in lotions, creams, powders, skin cleansing products, makeup bases and foundations, mascara, eye shadow, eyeliner, hair conditioners and rinses, and suntan and sunscreen products. D-beta Fructan: A naturally occurring sugar with moisture binding and skin-softening properties. Enhances synthesis of cell wall components; promotes more water uptake in cells. It is extracted to the fluids that flow along the basal layer of the skin and causes the Langerhans cells, immune cells, to expand with the increased water uptake, thereby plumping the skin. D-beta glucosamine: A skin strengthening agent found in Chinese Foxglove. D-beta glucosamine is an amino derivative of glucose and is used as a pH adjuster in skincare. Strengthens the skins immune system and promotes production of connective tissue, especially in the healing process. It works well together with D-beta fructan. DHEA (Plant Extract): a hormone made by the adrenal gland which slows in production beginning at 30 years of age and continues to decline. When applied topically, it acts as an antioxidant which simulates cellular growth, helps burn wounds heal faster and makes the skin look younger by keeping it pliable and moist. DHEA-Ascorbate: an antioxidant and adrenal hormone, which stimulates cellular growth, helps burn wounds heal faster and better. It utilizes skin’s receptors and forms a natural bond with ascorbic acid as its activator. Denatured Alcohol: is ethanol that has additives to make it more poisonous or unpalatable and, thus, undrinkable. When used in products that are not food, beverages or oral drugs, many countries, including the United States, require that alcohol be denatured. Deuterium Oxide (Heavy Aqua (Water) - is water highly enriched in the hydrogen isotope deuterium. The heavy molecular weight delivers moisture deep into skin. Dicaprylyl Ether: An ester oil. Sometimes referred to by its trade name Tegosoft DEC. A skin conditioning agent that provides light and non-greasy emollience to the skin. It’s well known for its low-viscous texture and good spread-ability, and is often used as a substitute for silicone and siloxane ingredients such as cyclopentasiloxane. You can find this ingredient in personal care products such as foundation, sunscreen, facial moisturizer, concealer, anti-aging treatment, bronzer/highlighter and body lotion. Dimethicone: a derivative of silicone that imparts emollients and is a water-binding agent that also provides “slip.” It increases the linking of hyaluronic and other GAGs to protein in connective tissue and skin. Dry Skin (Xerosis): Dry skin, also called xerosis, is a common problem. Due to sun exposure and aging, skin can lose its ability to produce moisture and natural oils. This results in dry skin. Though it may look smooth with fine pores and few 58 5 section blackheads or blemishes, it may also have a tight, leathery appearance. Emulsifier: An ingredient used to bind together normally noncombinative substances, such as oil and water. The chosen emulsifier is not only crucial for the stability of an emulsion, but has also a large impact on consistency, skin feel and care properties of a formulation. Emulsifiers are used in creams, lotions, sprays and foams that can be of the oil-inwater (O/W) or the water-in-oil (W/O) type. Enzymes: protein that catalyze chemical reactions. Normally found in exfoliation products. Gluconolactone: an antioxidant polyhydroxy acid (PHA); composed of multiple water-attracting hydroxyl groups, which hydrate the skin, resulting in enhanced degrees of moisturization. Glucosamine: a 6-carbon amino sugar occurring throughout nature; has the potential to deliver important skin care benefits, such as barrier enhancement, moisturization and tone evenness. Glucose: a sugar that is generally obtained by the hydrolysis of starch. Has moisture-binding properties and provides the skin with a soothing effect. Eucalyptus Globulus Oil: a natural botanical oil having antiseptic, disinfectant, anti-fungal, and blood-circulation activating properties. It is also used as a fragrance. Its antiseptic properties and disinfectant action increase as the oil ages. Glycerin: a humectant used in moisturizer. It is water-binding and able to draw and absorb water from the air, thus helping the skin retain moisture. Glycerin has been studied extensively for its hydrating abilities. Some of its associated skin benefits are attributed to its ability to facilitate enzymatic reactions in the skin, promoting corneocyte dequamation. Based on the data available, glycerin has been established as a good skin-moisturizing agent. Glycerin also improves the spreading qualities of creams and lotions. It is a clear, syrupy liquid made by chemically combining water and fat that is usually derived from vegetable oil. While glycerin has not been shown to cause allergies, it may be comedogenic and irritating to the mucous membranes when used in concentrated solutions. Fennel Oil: a botanical oil which acts as a cleanser and detoxifier indicated for oily skin types. Glycerol Distearate: used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. Fructooligoscaccharides: naturally occurring carbohydrates that promote healthy surface bacteria that protect the skin from harmful bacteria invasions Glyceryl Monosterate: commonly known as GMS, an organic molecule used as an emulsifier. Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF): a small polypeptide of 53 amino acids which serves as a cell messenger protein to signal the synthesis of the skin matrix to help aged or damaged cells to transform back into vibrant young skin cells Essential Oil: A volatile oil, usually having the characteristic odor or flavor of the plant from which it is obtained. Used in skincare products for aroma therapy and healing. Fructose: a naturally occurring sugar in fruits and honey. It has moisture-binding and skin-softening properties. Fumaric Acid: naturally occuring botanical acid that has been proven effective for systemic and topical treatment of severe psoriasis vulgaris and acne. Glyceryl Stearate: esterification products of glycerin and stearic acid. Glyceryl Stearate is a white or cream-colored wax-like solid. Glyceryl Stearate SE is a “Self-Emulsifying” form of Glyceryl Stearate that also contains a small amount of sodium and or potassium stearate. In cosmetics and personal care products. 59 5 section Glycolic Acid (AHA): Glycolic acid is a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in sugar cane. As the AHA with the smallest molecule and the greatest penetration, glycolic acid deeply exfoliates to remove skin that is dry, coarse, or dead. It dissolves intercellular cement responsible for abnormal keratinization, improves skin hydration, sloughs dead skin cells, cleans pores and smoothes fine lines. It is beneficial for acne prone skin, diminishing age spots, as well as actinic keratosis. Glucose Polymers: Short chains of glucose molecules generally obtained by the hydrolysis of starch. Have moisture binding properties and soothing effect on the skin. Grape Seed Extract: Vitis Vinifera is the technical name for grape seed extract, which is used in cosmetics and personal care products because of its natural antioxidant properties. As an antioxidant, it promotes capillary strength, aids with wound healing and helps decrease bruising. Green Tea Polyphenols: commonly derived from the plant Camellia sinensis. The polyphenolic catechins in the Camillia sinensis have anti-bacterial effects on streptococcus, in addition to inhibiting viral infections. Some green tea extracts are also shown to suppress activation of certain types of carcinogens, and may inhibit estrogen interaction with estrogen-related cancers. Green tea is also antiinflammatory, but can be sensitizing to certain individuals. Green Tea Extract: An extract of the leaves of the tea plant camellia sinensis , acts a potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures and repair skin cells. Green Tea: Green tea is made solely from the leaves of Camellia sinensis that have undergone minimal oxidation during processing. It acts as a very potent antioxidant that helps to support skin structures; for all skin types; natural; helps repair cells. Hazelnut Extract: a botanical oil extracted from hazelnuts. Reported to have astringent properties. Hazelnut Oil: a carrier oil credited with nourishing properties. As a carrier, it imparts excellent lubricity, pale color, and low odor. This oil is used in products designed for dry skin. Obtained from the nuts of various species of the hazelnut tree. Helianthus Oil (Sunflower oil): commonly used as a carrier oil, it softens and smoothes the skin. Sunflower oil has a high linoleic acid and other essential fatty acid content. In addition, it contains lecithin, carotenoids, and waxes. This oil is considered a noncomedogenic raw material. Herbal Extracts: are thought to have many and have been studied for years for their healing, antiseptic, purifying, anti inflammatory and therapeutic properties. When a client tells you she wants “natural” products, she is probably thinking of products using these ingredients, although one must also keep in mind that poison ivy is a “natural” ingredient. Because these ingredients are, in fact, from nature, there is also more likelihood that a client may have sensitivity or an allergic reaction to a product with high levels of these ingredients, especially if applied after a chemical exfoliation or microdermabrasion treatment. Hexandediol: a highly effective and mild coupling agent and humectant. It is especially useful when bonding silicone products and can be used at lower concentrations than many other coupling agents, therefore reducing its irritation likeliness. Hyaluronic acid: Hyaluronic Acid is a cushioning, lubricating chemical naturally created in the body. Occurs naturally in the dermis and possesses a large molecular structure. Holds 100 times its weight in water (ex. solution of 98% water and 2% hyaluronic acid will form a gel). When applied to the skin it binds moisture to the skin for immediate smoothness. A natural lubricator that promotes collagen formation. Hydrogen Peroxide: a bleaching and oxidizing agent, detergent, and antiseptic. Generally recognized as a safe preservative, 60 5 section germ killer, and skin bleacher in cosmetics. Hydroquinone: (In over-the-counter strength 1 % to 2 %, and prescription strength 4% to 8 %). FDA-approved for skin lightening and brightening. In order to be named a “skin bleach” a product must have hydroquinone as an ingredient, otherwise it may only be called a “brightener.” Hydroquinone is a tyrosinase-inhibitor that slows down the production of melanin by “turning off” the melanocytes. These types of products should be applied at night to avoid sun interaction. Hydroquinone can cause skin irritation in some individuals, and use of sun block is a must while using hydroquinone or any other tyrosinase-inhibitors. Hydroxyethyl Cellulose: suggested as a thickener, protective colloid, binder, stabilizer, and suspending agent. It is obtained from wood pulp or chemical cotton by treatment with an alkali. Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose: a polymer that improves foaming properties, lubricity, and formula stabilization. It can help formulators reduce active surfactant concentrations in a product without the loss of the desirable lathering properties. It is also a mildness agent for surfactants. Hydroxysuccinimide: an iron-chelating agent that helps eliminate blood cell pigments that contribute to dark circles around the eyes. Hyperpigmentation: The darkening of patches of skin or nails due to ramped-up melanin production, resulting in blotchy looking skin, “raccoon” under-eye circles, and uneven skin tone. Iron Oxides: an inorganic compound frequently used to add color to cosmetics. It may have some slight sunscreening ability. Iron oxide can vary in color from red to brown, black to orange or yellow, depending on the purity and amount of water added. Isopropyl Palmitate: an emollient and moisturizer, it also acts as a binder and solvent. Similar to isopropyl myristate, it is produced from the combination of palmitic acid (coconut or palm oil) and isopropyl alcohol. Enzymes are able to metabolize this ingredient and studies do not show allergic reactions or toxicity. Some sources indicate a comedogenicity potential. Jojoba Oil: a naturally occurring oil that resembles the skin’s sebum. It is reputed to have healing qualities, and studies have shown that it penetrates the stratum corneum rapidly to reduce water lose. Kaolin: a common clay mineral found naturally in the earth that has great absorption abilities making it an appropriate absorber of the oil and sweat secreted by the skin. Keratosis Pilaris: A common skin condition in which a protein in the skin called keratin forms hard plugs within hair follicles and causes rough patches and small, acne-like bumps, usually on the arms, thighs and buttocks. Keratosis pilaris bumps are usually white, sometimes red, and generally don’t hurt or itch. Kojic Acid: Kojic Acid is a fungal metabolic product, produced by several species of fungi, that inhibits the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. Kojic Acid is used in whitening products because of this ability to limit melanin production and is often seen as a skin-lightening gel. It inhibits the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. Kojic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor. Kukui Nut: used by early Hawaiians to soothe cuts and burns and to help protect the skin from damage due to sun and surf. Kukui nut oil is reported to have excellent penetration properties, to aid in soothing and moisturizing the skin, and relieve chapped skin and irritations. This oil does not leave the skin with a greasy after feel. Kukui nut oil is apparently an excellent treatment for psoriasis and eczema, and is also beneficial for acne and other common skin disorders. In addition, it is a sunscreen solubilizer that reduces the greasy 61 5 section feel often associated with sun products. Studies indicate possible natural sunscreen capabilities of its own, and when used with other sunscreens, may enhance a formulation’s efficacy. Native to Hawaii, the nuts and kernels are roasted and then pressed for their clear oil, which has a high linoleic and linoleic acid content. It is usually supplemented and stabilized with vitamins A, C, and E. to help relieve stress, and as such, is believed to be useful in treatment skin problems caused or aggravated by stress. The oil’s main component is linalool acetate; other actives include geranoil, borneol, ocimene, and pinene. It is generally considered nontoxic, nonsensitizing, and nonirritating. L-Arbutin: A naturally-occurring derivative of hydroquinone, arbutin is mainly found in the leaves of cranberry, bearberry, and blueberry shrubs. By inhibiting tyrosinase, it prevents the formation of melanin naturally occurring form of hydroquinone that may inhibit melanin synthesis by inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Lecithin: a generic term to designate any group of yellowbrownish fatty substances occurring in animal and plant tissues, and in egg yolk, composed of phosphoric acid, choline, fatty acids, glycerol, glycolipids, triglycerides, and phospholipids (e.g., phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, and phosphatidylinositol). In skincare products, used as an emulsifier. L-Limonene: a bioflavonoid found in citrus rinds; a powerful anti-viral, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal; and is a component in quality acne products. Lime Oil: one of the most versatile essential oils in aromatherapy, it is considered a counterirritant, antiseptic, blood purifier, and lymphatic stimulant. Lactic Acid: an AHA with a larger molecule than glycolic acid, and may not be as irritating as other AHA’s. Lactic acid is naturally occurring in the body. It increases the water holding capacity of the corneum layer. Concentrations of 5% and above provide improvement of fine lines for softer, smoother skin. Lycopene: abundant in tomatoes, is lipid-soluble and has been found more potent then beta-carotene in neutralizing singlet oxygen radicals, while being a cancer fighter. Lavender Oil: a natural botanical fragrance. Considered an all-purpose oil credited with many therapeutic properties. These include antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, antispasmodic, balancing, energizing, soothing, healing, tonic, and stimulating. In addition, it is said to help clean small wounds after washing and regulate skin functions. It works well on all skin types and produces excellent results when used for oily skin as well as in the treatment of acne, burns (sunburns as well as other superficial and nonextensive types), dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis. Its benefit to the dermis is immediate since it is easily and rapidly absorbed by the skin. Lavender oil is said to normalize any skin type and to stimulate cellular growth and regeneration. When added to other oils, lavender can enhance and balance their effect. Lavender is also claimed Mango Extract: mangofera indica. A plant extract associated with various benefits, including antioxidant properties and skin softening and smoothing thanks to natural enzymatic activity. Malic Acids (AHA): derived from apples, helps to gently exfoliate surface discolorations. Mature Skin: Loose creepy appearance and lines distinguish this skin type which develops due to biological changes, the aging processes and a slow-down of cell growth. Cells don’t regenerate quickly and skin loses its elasticity. Symptoms include lines appearing due to ongoing positional habits, such as sleep lines, consistent facial movements, or muscle changes from the effects of gravity. Mica: a mineral used as a texturizer and coloring agent in cosmetics, it is employed to provide a “glimmer” or 62 5 section “shimmering” quality in makeup powders. Mica is the group name for a series of ground silicate minerals with similar physical properties but varied chemical composition. Micas range in color from colorless to pale green, brown or black. Myhrra Extract: botanical extract from myrrh that acts as a skinconditioning agent. Niacin: vitamin B3. In skincare used a conditioning agent for smoothing the skin. Niacinamide: used as a skin stimulant and skin smoother, it is a derivative of niacin, and part of the vitamin B family. Oily Skin: Oily skin is often shiny and coarse in texture and may have recurring blackheads and enlarged pores. It may also have patches of flakiness around the nose where excess oils have dried. Oleamide DEA: a surfactant - foam booster; viscosity increasing agent – aqueous. Orange Oil: a botanical citris oil, with properties in skin care considered anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antispasmodic, and sedative, making it suitable for sensitive, delicate skin. Palm Oil: derived from the fruit of palm trees, and used as a consistency regulator and a formula stabilizer in the manufacture of creams, lotions, makeup, and decorative cosmetics. Palmitoyl Oligopeptide: a synthetic peptide used in antiaging products. It is said to help smooth and reduce the appearance of wrinkles as well as repair age-related skin problems by stimulating collagen production. Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3: a peptide that appears to improve skin elasticity and firmness. It also hydrates, smoothes, and protects the skin. An additional anti-inflammatory activity is attributed to its ability to control the secretion of specific chemicals responsible for skin aging (i.e. cytokines and specifically interleukin-6), and hence it may function in a manner similar to the antiaging hormone, DHEA. Paprika: a spice with detoxifying qualities used to stimulate blood circulation in the skin. PEG-100 Sterate: a stabilizer and emulsifier for creams and lotions. Technically, it is the polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid containing 100 miles of PEG. It is also a cleansing agent and surfactant utilized in skin care products, some hair care preparations, toiletries, and some perfumes. Perfluorodecalin: Perfluorodecalin is a fluorocarbon and derivative of decalin, and used in cosmetics and beauty products as to dissolve and deliver oxygen to the skin in formulas (Wikipedia). It is also used as a skin conditioning agent, detangler, and solvent in some formulas. Perfluorodecalin’s ability to dissolve oxygen is thought to revitalize skin and reduce wrinkles, increasing the partial pressure of oxygen (pO2), according to research. Phenoxyethanol: a glycol ether used a preservative used in cosmetics and personal care products. Photo-damaged Skin: Occurs from extended exposure to sunlight. Most commonly affects skin on the face, arms and legs that is left uncovered. Can manifest itself in sun/ liver spots, pebbly skin, irregular pigmentation, and in some cases, cancer. Polysorbate-20: a solubilizer, emulsifier, viscosity-modifier, and stabilizer of essential oils in water. Polysorbate-60: an emulsifier, wetting agent, and detergent emulsifier for mineral oil, fats, and waxes. It is also a stabilizer of essential oils in water. Potassium Carbonate: a white salt, soluble in water (insoluble in alcohol), which forms a strongly alkaline solution. In cosmetics, used as a pH adjuster Potassium Sorbate: a preservative primarily against mold and 63 5 section Propylene Glycol: next to water, this is the most common moisture-carrying vehicle used in cosmetic formulations. It is used as a humectant since it absorbs water from the air. It serves as a solvent for antioxidants and preservatives. In addition, it has preservative properties against bacteria and fungi when used in concentrations of 16% or higher. sources. Resveratrol demonstrates anti-inflammatory effects, in addition to anti-mutagenic activity. It supports the capillaries and health of the skin from free-radical damage. Resveratrol might be used as an ingredient to calm the skin after microdermabrasion treatments or other exfoliation procedures. Retinyl Palmitate: a skin conditioner. Once on the skin converts to retinol which converts to retinoic acid. It increases epidermal thickness, stimulating the production of epidermal protein and increasing skin elasticity. It is used to reduce the number and depth of fine lines and wrinkles. It is also useful against dryness, heat and pollution. Pumpkin Seed Oil: a botanial oil that is quickly absorbed by the skin. Pumpkin seed oil is rich in vitamins A, C, E, Zinc, and Omega-3 and Omega-6 essential fatty acids. Recommended for use in lotions, creams, and scrubs. Retinyl Propionate: an ester form of Vitamin A. Converts to tretinoic acid in the cells. Penetrates in the skin for immediate tightening and to help control acne and oil secretions. Not as harsh as vitamin A. Red Wine Extract: a botanical extract from grapes that acts as an anti-inflammatory. Rosacea: A chronic skin disease that affects the middle third of the face with persistent redness over the areas of the face that normally blush and the nose: mainly the forehead, the chin and the lower half of the nose. The tiny blood vessels in these areas enlarge (dilate) and become more visible through the skin, appearing like tiny red lines (called telangiectasias). Pimples can occur that look like acne. Unlike acne, rosacea is not primarily a plague of teenagers. It occurs most often in adults (ages 30 to 50), especially those with fair skin, and affects both sexes but tends to be more common in women but worse in men. Rosacea rarely reverses itself. It lasts for years and, untreated, it worsens. Untreated rosacea can cause a condition called rhinophyma (ryno-fee-ma), literally growth of the nose, characterized by a bulbous, enlarged red nose and puffy cheeks (like the old comedian W.C. Fields). There may also be thick bumps on the lower half of the nose and the nearby cheek areas. Rhinophyma occurs mainly in men. yeast, and used in concentrations of 0.025 to 0.2 percent. It is nontoxic but may cause mild skin irritation. Propanediol: a solvent; viscosity decreasing agent. Retinol: a retinoid considered to be a skin revitalizer, retinol is reported to enhance skin radiance and treat conditions associated with chronological aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, as well as dermatological disorders, including acne, follicular and lesion papules, actinic keratosis, oily skin, and rosacea. According to clinical dermatologists, retinol is one of the few substances with a demonstrated ability to reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles. It is able to alter the behavior of aged cells so they act in a more youthful manner. It is considered necessary for normal epidermal cell growth and differentiation and stimulates the production of new blood vessels in the skin, improving skin tone. In addition, retinol has antioxidant capacities. Resorcinol: removes the surface layer of the skin (the dry, dead cells), is a beta hydroxy that penetrates deeper into the skin, allowing a deeper more even penetration of glycolic or lactic acid, possesses anti-microbial properties. Resveratrol: a phytoalexin that is produced in plants in response to environmental, insect or animal stress. Grape skins are good Rosewood Oil: Rosewood oil is extracted from Aniba rosaeodora (also known as Aniba rosaeodora var. amazonica) from the Lauraceae family and also known as bios de rose and Brazilian rosewood. Useful as a cellular stimulant and tissue regenerator. It is cell stimulating and tissue generating, 64 5 section so it is ideal for anti-aging. Safflower Extract: botanical name of the plant is carthamus tinctorius. This botanical extract is hydrating to the skin and intensely moisturizing. Sage: an herb considered to have astringent, antibacterial, antiseptic, and anti-inflammatory, stimulating, softening, invigorating, and healing properties. non-comedogenic and helps prevent lipid-peroxidation in the epidermis, it reduces erythema, neutralizes free radicals, and is rapidly absorbed and assimilated into the skin, while improving metabolic waste elimination. Silica: the most abundant mineral on earth. Used as carrier for emollients. It is also used to control a product’s viscosity, add bulk, and reduce a formulation’s transparency. Sales (trace minerals): from sea water, also can be defined as mineral salts of sea water, but must be listed as SALES on INCI format. Silk Amino Acids: a silk-derived protein resulting from the complete hydrolysis of silk. Protects the skin from dehydration and leaves it with a smooth feel. Salicylic Acid: derived from willow bark or wintergreen, and is keratolytic, that in small percentages in a cleanser or moisturizer can help keep acne-prone skin clear. It also has some anti-inflammatory properties, as well as antiseptic, antifungal, antioxidant and antibacterial properties. It is also a chemical trap for free radicals, and is available to penetrate the pore to exfoliate inside as well as out, similar to how benzoyl-peroxide works, and could be a good substitute for benzoyl-peroxide sensitive clients. It combats oxidative stress, and works well with vitamin C. If a client is allergic to aspirin, you must not use salicylic acids on them, as they are chemically similar. Simethicone: a mixture of silicon-based polymer dimethicone (polydimethylsiloxane) and silica gel. An antifoaming agent. Seaweed algae extract: (focus vesiculosus) stimulating, revitalizing and nourishing to the skin due to its iodine and sulfur amino acid components. It has both anti-inflammatory and disinfectant capabilities. Its moisturizing properties are attributed to its ability to react with protein and form a protective gel on the skins surface, reducing moisture loss due to evaporation. Sodium Borate: a preservative and emulsifier with astringent and antiseptic properties. It is also used as a pH adjuster. Sodium borate is the sodium salt f boric acid. Sensitive skin: Broken capillaries and vessels beneath the surface of the skin distinguish this skin type. Sensitive skin should not be over stimulated because it is extremely delicate and reactive to any type of physical or chemical stimulation. Sodium Hydroxide: a chemical reagent used in making soap. Shea Butter: a rich emollient derived from the karite tree; it is Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: a more stable form of Vitamin C (which reacts and degrades with water), the human body does not produce Vitamin C, therefore we must obtain it from diet, supplements and topical products, helps resolve erythema by strengthening the capillary walls. Sodium Benzoate: a nontoxic, organic salt preservative that is particularly effective against yeast, with some activity against molds and bacteria. Sodium Hyaluronate: used as a moisturizing agent, viscosifier, and emulsifier; capable of binding 1,800 times its own weight in water. It is the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid. Sodium-PCA: a high performance humectant due to its moisture binding abilities. It exists naturally in the skin as a component of the natural moisturizing factors. It is derived from amino acids and is considered noncomedogenic and nonallergnic and therefore is recommended for dry, delicate, 65 5 section and sensitive skin. promotes healing. Sorbic Acid: a nontoxic preservative against molds and yeast with moderate sensitizing potential in leave-on cosmetics. Teprenone: a chemical believed to stabilize teleomeres – the “age meters” on cellular DNA. Helps fight against all signs of aging by improving dehydration, age spots and ineffective barrier function. Teprenone improves skin moisture, redness and pore size, skin roughness and fine lines. Sorbitan Oleate: a mild emulsifier derived from sugar. Sorbitol: can be created synthetically or derived from natural sources. Similar to glycerin, it is a humectant, thickening agent, and slip agent; absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness, and leaves the skin feeling smooth. Soybean Protein: a botanical ingredient derived from soy that has good anti-irritant properties. Recommended for formulations for sensitive skin types. Titanium Dioxide: a nonchemical SPF contributor. When applied, titanium dioxide remains on the skins surface, scattering UV light. A versatile ingredient, providing opacity in masks, and works as a sun block in skin care products. It is an invert mineral and in micronized form is very useful in providing sun protection in creams and powder foundations. This is excellent for people with sensitivities to sunscreens. Squalene: derived from vegetable oils, acts an oxygenator and cancer fighter. It holds moisture to the epidermal lipid layer, and helps keep skin supple and smooth and guards against UV radiation. Tocopherol: an antioxidant obtained by vacuum distillation of edible vegetable oils. It is a more stable form and is converted to Vitamin E in the body, non-comedogenic antioxidant that prevents sebum from becoming rancid Stearic Acid: an emulsifier and thickening agent found in may vegetable fats. Treemoss Extract: a botanical ingredient that helps mask odor in a product. Steareth-20: an emulsifier for water-in-oil formulations, adding stability, and preventing the separation of the two phases. Vitamin C: a powerful antioxidant, and is more easily used by the skin and is less irritating because of its neutral pH when utilized as either ascorbyl palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Vitamin C can help resolve erythema, both from UV-induced burns, laser treatments and exfoliation by strengthening the capillary walls. It also has antiinflammatory activity to help with the healing process. Sunflower Seed Oil: an oil extracted from the sunflower plant, and commonly used as a carrier oil, softening and smoothing the skin. Tangerine Oil: a botanical oil with properties similar to those of orange, though with greater antispasmodic and sedative properties. Tea Tree Oil: or melaleuca oil, is a pale yellow color to nearly clear essential oil with a fresh camphoraceous odor. It is taken from the leaves of the Melaleuca alternifolia, which is native to the northeast coast of New South Wales, Australia. It is considered a natural preservative with antiseptic, germicidal, and expectorant properties; Vitamin D-3: a fat soluble vitamin that acts as a keratinization regulator, helping to improve skin feel and firmness with repeated use. Vitamin E (as D-Alpha Tocopheral): a fat soluble vitamin that can provide protection from free-radical damage in collaboration with beta-carotene. Vitamin E is considered to be one of the more stable antioxidants, and has been implied by scientists to protect the skin from environmental pollutants and sunlight 66 5 section through its antioxidant capacities. Free radical activity can substantially destroy the collagen and elastin support system through UV radiation exposure. UV exposure can degrade DNA structure, damage enzymatic activity, impair immune functions and create overall tissue deterioration. Witch Hazel Extract: distilled from the bark and leaves of the eponymous tree. Traditionally used in the topical treatment of burns, sunburns, skin irritation, insect bites, and bruises; anti-inflammatory, astringent, and wound-healing properties. Vitamin E: and antioxidant that is fat soluble, which means, it will stick around longer than water-soluble, a very powerful tool in protection for skin. It will help the body repair itself and help prevent appearances of wrinkles. Xanthum Gum: is a polysaccharide, derived from the bacterial coat of Xanthomonas campestris. Serves as a texturizer, carrier agent, and gelling agent in cosmetic preparations. Stabilizes and thickens formulations. Vitamin A: also known as retinal, is fat-soluble which if applied to skin topically converts into a tretinoic acid in the cells. But, unlike Retin-A it does not lay on the surface to dry or irritate the skin, it goes into the skin and penetrates. It also helps to control oil secretions/acne control. Ylang Ylang Flower Oil: botanical extract from the ylang ylang flower with antiseptic, softening, smoothing, rejuvenating, calming, soothing and antispasmodic properties. Good for inflamed and/or irritated skin and for controlling acne. Helps with the balance of the skin and works to reduce oiliness. Vitamin K: a fat soluble vitamin key to the clotting function in human blood. Has been shown to reduce pigment deposits and bruising caused by “leaky” blood vessels. Zirconium Dioxide: an inorganic oxide which acts as an opacifying agent. Provides barrier protection from the sun. Used to soothe and heal the skin. Watermelon Extract: a botanical extract that protects skin cells (keratinocytes & fibroblasts) against daily stress induced by UV light & free radicals, reduces the break-down of DNA in human skin cells. In vivo tests on humans have shown that watermelon extract protects the DNA up to 25%. Reduces erythema after UV irradiation. Zinc Oxide: an inorganic compound that provides an excellent barrier to the sun and other irritants. Somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial. Proves both UVA and UVB protection, and can contribute to and/or increase SPF. Included on the FDA’s list of approved sunscreen chemicals. 67 5 section Skin Types and Common Conditions Mature Skin: Loose creepy appearance and lines distinguish this skin type which develops due to biological changes, the aging processes and a slow-down of cell growth. Cells don’t regenerate quickly and skin loses its elasticity. Symptoms include lines appearing due to ongoing positional habits, such as sleep lines, consistent facial movements, or muscle changes from the effects of gravity. Photo-damaged Skin: Occurs from extended exposure to sunlight. Most commonly affects skin on the face, arms and legs that is left uncovered. Can manifest itself in sun/liver spots, pebbly skin, irregular pigmentation, and in some cases, cancer. Oily Skin: Oily skin is often shiny and coarse in texture and may have recurring blackheads and enlarged pores. It may also have patches of flakiness around the nose where excess oils have dried. Dry Skin (Xerosis): Dry skin, also called xerosis, is a common problem. Due to sun exposure and aging, skin can lose its ability to produce moisture and natural oils. This results in dry skin. Though it may look smooth with fine pores and few blackheads or blemishes, it may also have a tight, leathery appearance. Skin needs moisture to stay smooth and supple, and retaining moisture becomes difficult with age. Sensitive skin: Broken capillaries and vessels beneath the surface of the skin distinguish this skin type. Sensitive skin should not be over stimulated because it is extremely delicate and reactive to any type of physical or chemical stimulation. Combination Skin: This skin type has an oily T-zone across the forehead, nose and chin, but a normal to dry area around the cheeks and throat. Another combination pattern is oily along the chin, jaw line and at the temples, but normal to dry skin elsewhere on the face. Acneic Skin: Acne affects people regardless of age, gender, or race. Factors that affect acne production include heredity, oily skin and bacteria. Acne skin is usually oily and distinguished by blackheads and pimples. If neglected and uncared for these blemishes can advance to a worsened stage and leave behind scarred and pitted skin. Rosacea: A chronic skin disease that affects the middle third of the face with persistent redness over the areas of the face that normally blush and the nose: mainly the forehead, the chin and the lower half of the nose. The tiny blood vessels in these areas enlarge (dilate) and become more visible through the skin, appearing like tiny red lines (called telangiectasias). Pimples can occur that look like acne. Unlike acne, rosacea is not primarily a plague of teenagers. It occurs most often in adults (ages 30 to 50), especially those with fair skin, and affects both sexes but tends to be more common in women but worse in men. Rosacea rarely reverses itself. It lasts for years and, untreated, it worsens. Untreated rosacea can cause a condition called rhinophyma (ryno-fee-ma), literally growth of the nose, characterized by a bulbous, enlarged red nose and puffy cheeks (like the old comedian W.C. Fields). There may also be thick bumps on the lower half of the nose and the nearby cheek areas. Rhinophyma occurs mainly in men. Hyperpigmentation: The darkening of patches of skin or nails due to ramped-up melanin production, resulting in blotchy looking skin, “raccoon” under-eye circles, and uneven skin tone. Keratosis Pilaris: A common skin condition in which a protein in the skin called keratin forms hard plugs within hair follicles and causes rough patches and small, acne-like bumps, usually on the arms, thighs and buttocks. Keratosis pilaris bumps are usually white, sometimes red, and generally don’t hurt or itch. 68 Face HALOXYL TM Make-up Patent pending Composition of HALOXYL TM Function: Lessens under eye dark circles Definition: Association of 2 matrikines: Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR with N-hydroxysuccinimide (NHS) and a flavonoid : chrysin. Properties: Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR reinforce firmness and tone of the eye area. Chrysin and N-hydroxysuccinimide activate the elimination of blood originated pigments responsible for dark circle colour and local inflammation. Characteristics: Infra-orbital shadows are due to the accumulation of hemoglobin and its coloured degradation products (biliverdin, bilirubin and iron) in the dermis and epidermis. Chrysin stimulates the enzyme (UGT1A1) leading to the clearance of bilirubin. N-hydroxysuccinimide makes the iron soluble for elimination. Proposed INCI name: Water (Aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Steareth-20 (and) Hydroxysuccinimide* (and) Chrysin* (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3 * CTFA registration of the two active substances pending Applications: Dark-circle treatments, eye contour care, concealers. Formulation: Water soluble Incorporate at 45°C in emulsions or at ambient temperature in gels Recommended use level: 2% Sederma - member of Croda International Group www.sederma.fr E-mail: [email protected] CLAIM SUBSTANTIATION April 2004 In vitro In vitro tests Iron complexation by NHS Ability of NHS to bind iron The decrease of colour demonstrates the iron complexation by N-hydroxysuccinimide. N-hydroxysuccinimide binds iron to make it soluble for elimination Anti-inflammatory effect Increasing iron complexation by NHS Measurement of the decrease of PGE2 release by keratinocytes and fibroblasts after UVB irradiation, with HALOXYLTM. HALOXYLTM demonstrates anti-inflammatory properties similar to those of aspirin. In vitro Gene amplification MW marker HaloxylTM 1% 2% 3% UGT1A1 Stimulation of expression of UGT Cells in culture are incubated for 3 days with chrysin. The gene expression for UGT1A1 is determined by RT-PCR. Chrysin strongly stimulates the expression of the enzyme involved in the clearance of bilirubin (end product of hemoglobin degradation). Product Gene Amplification Chrysin 7.8 µM (eq. 2% HaloxylTM) Chrysin 11.8 µM (eq. 3% HaloxylTM) +247% +600% Clinical study: Anti-dark circle efficacy 22 female volunteers have applied to the contour of one eye a gel containing 2% HALOXYL™ for 56 days against placebo on the other one. The anti-dark circle effect is assessed by image analysis and measurement of the colour parameters (L,a,b system) by a specific software. Variation Rate of volunteers with improvement Variation for volunteers with improvement *significant / T0 (p<0.05) ∆a ∆b -12.5%* +10%** 72% 63% -19.5% +19% ∆b b- (blue) HALOXYL TM ∆a b+ (yellow) 2% a- (green) a+ (red) PLACEBO Red and blue colours of dark circles have decreased significantly by 19% **significant /T0 (p<0.01) Formulation Anti-dark circle gel Part A Water deionised Ultrez 10 (Carbomer, Noveon) with % qs 100 0.30 Part B Glycerin Preservatives % 5.00 qs Part C Hydroxyethyl Cellulose % 0.30 Part D Pemulen TR2 % 0.20 Crodamol CAP (Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Croda) 6.00 Part E Potassium sorbate % 0.10 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Noveon) Tested formulation ref.: SED0308383 D1t HALOXYLTM Part F Water deionised Sodium hydroxide 30% % 4.00 0.46 Part G Crillet 1 % 0.50 (Polysorbate 20, Croda) Part H HALOXYLTM (Sederma) % 2.00 Protocol Part A: Sprinkle Ultrez 10 in water and allow to swell for 15 minutes. Part B: heat the glycerin to 60°C, dissolve the preservatives. Cool to 40°C. Add Part C to Part B, homogenize, then add Part B+C to Part A with helix stirring. Allow to swell for 1 hour. Add Part D, then Part E to Part (A+B+C), homogenize. Neutralize with Part F. Let swell for 1 hour. Incorporate Part G, homogenize, then add Part H. Non-guarantee: This formulation has been subjected to limited stability tests and has been shown to perform well. However formulators adopting this approach should ensure to their own satisfaction long term stability and functionality. It is good practice to conduct safety tests on all final formulations prior to marketing. Suggested uses should not be taken as an inducement to infringe any existing patents. Sederma - 29 rue du Chemin Vert 78612 Le Perray-en-Yvelines cedex France Tel. : +33 (0)1 34 84 10 10 Fax : +33 (0)1 34 84 11 30 Renovage™ revision February 2009 EXTEND YOUR SKIN’S YOUTHSPAN Function and Characteristics: RENOVAGE™ improves tissue quality by optimal cell interactions (cell communication). It helps rebalance cell functions (metabolism) and acts like an anti-ageing and stress protector by telomere stabilisation and DNA maintenance (cell division). Cosmetic interest (properties): RENOVAGE™ ghts against all signs of ageing: functional: dehydration, age spots, ineffective barrier function. structural: ptosis, wrinkles, pores, erythrosis. By delaying senescence, RENOVAGE™ can extend cell lifespan by 1/3. CTFA / INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride – Teprenone Specications: Appearance Colour : clear oily liquid : colourless to pale yellow Odour : characteristic Specic gravity (20°C) : 0.935 - 0.955 Refractive index (25°C) : 1.440 - 1.460 Peroxide value (mEq.O2/kg) : 0.0 - 10.0 Geranylgeranyl acetone content (%) : 1.80 - 2.20 Sederma patents: WO 2006/120646 - FR 2 885 522 Applications: Anti-ageing creams, gel-creams. Warning: This product must not be used for commercial purposes in Japan. Recommended use level: 3 % CLAIM SUBSTANTIATION IN VIVO Protocol: Simple blind study including 24 women, 58±6 years old, with wrinkles and not having used anti-age products for at least 1 month. No intentional UV exposure. Twice daily application of a cream formulated with 3% Renovage™, for 6 months. Evaluation of the functional and structural signs of ageing at 1 and 6 months. Efcacy on functional signs of ageing Skin moisturisation ......................................................... +30%* up to +58%**, improvement for 100% panellists Measurement by corneometry of the remnant skin moisture 24h after the last application. (*signicant/T0 p<<0.01) Epidermal barrier integrity................................................ +19%* up to +46%**, improvement for 75% panellists Measurement by vapometer of the transepidermal water loss. (*signicant/T0 p<0.05) UV Sun spots ....................................................................- 42%* up to -56%**, improvement for 100% panellists Measurement of invisible UV spots by VISIA® system under UV light. (*signicant/T0 p<<0.01) ** = 1st quartile Micro depressionnary network Measurement of roughness, lines and their homogeneity of the forearm (after 1 month) and the neckline (after 6 months), by skin replicas. Renovage™ signicantly improves the surface of the skin. Skin is smoother, more uniform and looks younger. Skin replica of the neckline Efcacy on structural signs of ageing Forearm Neckline % / T0 Mean 1st quartile Mean 1st quartile T0 Line homogeneity +31 +103 +28 +109 Roughness -11 -26 -14 -36 25-50μm -4 -22 -12 -38 50-75μm -13.5 T6 >75μm -29 -54 -64 -34.5 -66.5 -47 -56 Erythrosis (redness)...................................................................................................................................... - 30.5%* Measurement of skin redness by Doppler ultrasound after 1 month on 23 panellists. (*signicant/Placebo p<0.05) Sederma 29 rue du Chemin Vert 78612 Le Perray-en-Ynes Cedex France Tel. : +33 (0)1 34 84 10 10 Fax : +33 (0)1 34 84 11 30 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sederma.fr Firmness / Elasticity / Tone Measurement by cutometry after 1 month. +45 40 30 +35 Dilated pores Measurement of dilated pores by Visia® system. 75% of the panellists had an improvement in skin rmness. -10 -15 +31 -20 20 -25 10 +12 +11 +15 Top 25% Firmness Elasticity -17 -20 -37 -35 -40 Tone -26 Top 25% -30 Mean 0 More than 90% of the panellists had an improvement in pore size. 0 -5 1 month Mean 6 months IN VITRO Function loss ..................................................................................................................................................... - 60% Apoptotic cells after UVB irradiation, skin explants. Cell resistance ................................................................................................................................... +75 and +100% HSP 27 & 70 reduction after UVB irradiation, skin explants. Self-defence ..................................................................................................................................................... +100% Catalase activity after UVB irradiation, skin explants. Wound healing capacity ...................................................................................................................................... +++ Cell re-colonization after lesion and irradiation, keratinocytes Skin cell senescence (broblasts) Senescence Control culture Senescence End Culture with Renovage™ T0 T3.5 months T7 months T9.5 months For a total culture duration of 9.5 months, cell life span is signicantly increased by 1/3. With Renovage™, cell senescence is delayed by 3.5 months. Renovage™ works on the origin of youth and targets the cell actors that ensure lifespan and youth. Renovage™ creates the optimal conditions in the epidermis and the dermis for visible effects on the skin surface. Sederma 29 rue du Chemin Vert 78612 Le Perray-en-Ynes Cedex France Tel. : +33 (0)1 34 84 10 10 Fax : +33 (0)1 34 84 11 30 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.sederma.fr Section o WELLNESS 6 section Nutrition and Wellness Recommendations for Treating Acne Acne has many causes, including bacterial overgrowth on the skin surface and lack of beneficial bacterial in the GI tract. Hormones and poor diet can also play a role. Key nutritional considerations are dietary and topical probiotics and prebiotics, management of cortisol and other sex hormones, and dietary considerations such as dairy intake and high glycemic diet. In addition to managing lifestyle choices it is important to treat the skin in a way that manages the bacteria and alleviates oil over production, while minimizing scars and smoothing the skin. Microdermabrasion and the use of a natural skincare line designed specifically for acne can lead to dramatically improved skin. Below is a very general overview of things to consider when managing acne. Lifestyle Recommendations Keep inflammation in check. An anti-inflammatory diet with a good balance of omega 3 to omega 6 fats is critical. Be sure to include plenty of fatty fish like salmon and/or plant sources of omega 3 fatty acids like milled flax seeds and walnuts. Limit fried foods and baked cookies and crackers which contain high amounts of omega 6 fatty acids. Eat your veggies and fruits. Large amount of green vegetables not only provide much needed B and C vitamins, but also are detoxifying and anti-inflammatory. Aim for 5-7 servings per day with a focus on eating a rainbow of colors to ensure that you get a variety of phytonutrients. imbalanced you will see it on your skin. Fermented foods like yogurt, keifer, kimchi, sauerkraut and miso are great natural sources of probiotics – healthy bacteria. People with acne, especially those who have taken antibiotics for years, have compromised gut flora and may need the added benefit of a probiotic supplement in addition to regular intake of fermented foods. Skip the sugar. Sugar and refined carbs are not your partners in good health in general, but if you have acne, they can be especially detrimental to your skin. Strictly limit or completely avoid refined sugar or refined carbs which create AGE’s – advanced glycation end products. These AGE’s damage collagen and elastin and lead to premature skin aging. Limit dairy consumption. Research has shown that milk intake is positively associated with acne. This is due largely in part to the hormones in milk. Even organic milk has hormones, so it is best to avoid it when trying to manage acne. Yogurt and keifer are ok since they offer beneficial bacterial. Hydrate. Drink plenty of filtered tap or mineral water to flush out toxins and give your cells the hydration they require. Limit alcohol, caffeinated and sugar sweetened beverages. Feed your flora! Your GI track and skin are both lined with healthy bacteria that help fight off unhealthy bacteria and maintain overall immunity. When your gut flora are 54 6 section Lifestyle Recommendations Cont.. Skincare Recommendations The final piece of the holistic approach involves your lifestyle choices. There are many choices you make in your daily living that can cause acne to flare. Think about making the following important changes in your routine if you are not in balance: Every two weeks you should receive a MegaPeel EX® Microdermabrasion treatment with Precision Peel® chemical peel. After the peel apply daily eclipse™ oil-free SPF 30 sunscreen. Do not do anything but cleanse gently that night. You may use a light layer of moisturizer, but keep it light. (skincare recommendations below) Resume the normal routine below 24 hours later. Manage stress. Stress causes elevated cortisol which can reak havoc on your skin and increase overall inflammation. Take time for you every day. This is different for everyone. It could be yoga, meditation or just laughing with friends. Don’t your worries control you, but rather take control. Your daily skincare routine should consist of the following: AM • Get your zzzz’s. Inadequate sleep also raises cortisol and leads to cravings for unhealthy refined carbs as the body craves quick glucose spikes to increase energy. Stick to a regular sleep schedule (even on the weekends). Equally as important keep electronics out of the bedroom and make your bed a place for rest, not work. • • • PM • Keep germs off of your face. Many times we do not realize how many germs, dirt and oil we add to our face during the day from unexpected places. Clean phones and keyboards daily with an alcohol wipe. Change your pillow case daily. We recommend a fragrance free, eco-friendly laundry detergent for bedding and towels. Keep your hands off of your face – this one is hard. Many times we unconsciously touch our face during the day. At the very least, keep hands clean by washing several times per day to avoid transferring bacterial to your sensitive skin. Cleanse with either the repair bar or botana gel cleanser™. Swipe face with green tea toner. Apply a thin layer of AHA salicylic acid. Apply a layer of daily eclipse™ SPF 30 oil-free mineral sunscreen and mineral makeup. • • • Cleanse with either the repair bar or botana gel cleanser™. Swipe face with green tea toner. Apply a layer of vitA-clear serum™ to entire face, avoiding the eye area. Apply a thin layer of AHA salicylic acid over top. WEEKLY • Apply retinyl enzyme treatment™ to face. Leave on for 10 minutes. Rinse with clean water 3 times or until the face no longer feels tacky. Follow regular post-cleansing steps. OPTIONAL • Swipe the face mid-day with green tea toner if you feel oily. 55 6 section • • • • • • Re-apply daily eclipse™ if you do so to protect your skin from UVA/UVB rays and environmental toxins. If you need some moisture, I would try the C-difference™ vitamin C moisturizer as needed, but a light application. For those who wish to fade acne scars you can apply a thin layer of clari-tone serum™ over the affected areas, followed by a layer of AHA salicylic acid. This should be done once per day. If you do this during the day, always use the daily eclipse™ plus mineral makeup, and wear a hat and sunglasses if going into the sun. Alternatively, you can save this for nighttime and alternate vitA-clear serum™ and clari-tone serum™. vitA-clear serum™ should never be put on before going in the sun either. It makes you very sun sensitive. 56 6 section Putting the pieces together for brilliant, healthy skin The dmSkincare line is designed to treat specific skin conditions or types with products formulated to work together in targeted, daily regimens. Typically there’s a morning and evening routine, as well as some weekly or occasional treatments. Layering of products is done to further enhance the effects of products and achieve certain desired results. Anti-aging is the most common goal of our clients. An antiaging routine should include regular use of vitamins A and C, protection from UV radiation, and antioxidant protection. I recommend the following routine: • AM • • • • Cleanse – use a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, makeup, and excess oil from the skin. We have two great options: the botana gel cleanser™ or the gentle cleansing bar. The botana gel has some alpha hydroxy acids to provide some deeper cleaning and gentle exfoliation. The gentle cleansing bar is great for sensitive or inflamed skin. Serum – a serum is different from a moisturizer in that it delivers an intensive dose of nutrients to the skin for a specific purpose. For anti-aging I recommend high potenC serum™. This product is a botanical synergy of green tea, resveratrol, grape seed and vit C in one antioxidant powerhouse serum! This ascorbic acid form of vitamin C provides the material needed for collagen and elastin formation and also supports healthy vasculature in the skin. Eye cream – Not everyone uses an eye cream, but most people over 40 see the first signs of age in this area. Our eye radiance K’reme™ with grape seed extract, arnica, haloxyl and vitamin K helps to alleviate dark circles and puffiness. I love this stuff and see visible changes since using it. This is a best seller. Moisturizer- a moisturizer does just that - provides moisture and a lipid barrier to the skin. We have two really great anti-aging choices which both contain vitamin C. My current favorite is our collagen renewal C’reme™. It contains peptides and Epidermal Growth Factor, clinically proven to increase firmness and moisture in the skin as well as promote healthy collagen formation. I’m also a huge fan of our C-difference™ – vitamin C lotion, which is great for sensitive skin like mine or anyone who has rosacea. The phosphorylated form of vitamin C in this product nourishes inflamed vessels. This is also my daytime choice during the warmer weather when I want something lighter. Sunscreen – We all know that you can get photo damage any time of the year, even during the winter. We feel strongly that a chemical sunscreen does more harm than good. Our daily eclipse™ is an oil free, mineral sunscreen, with SPF 30. This formulation provides non-greasy coverage that rubs in clear and does not contain any harmful chemicals to irritate skin. PM The nighttime routine is similar, with the addition of a toner and the subtraction of the sunscreen: • • Cleanse – use a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, makeup, and excess oil from the skin. We have two great options: the botana gel cleanser™ or the gentle cleansing bar. The botana gel has some alpha hydroxy acids to provide some deeper cleaning and gentle exfoliation. The gentle cleansing bar is great for sensitive or inflamed skin. Toner – toner is great because it picks up the makeup and dirt that cleansing alone sometimes misses and has an astringent quality to clear the pores. Our green tea toner contains a small amount of glycolic acid, so it gently exfoliates the 57 6 section • • skin and removes dirt and oil from the pores. It also contains hazelnut oil and green tea extract to nourish the skin and leave it feeling clean but not over-stripped and tight. Serum - Here’s where the vitamin A comes in. Our vit-A clear serum™ is like retinA without the harsh side effects. The retinal proprianate form of vitamin A converts to tretenoic acid on the skin. This product should be used every other evening. It can be used every night for people with acneic or oily skin. To boost the impact of your serum even further you can add some AHA salicylic solution after applying a serum to deliver the serum deeper into the skin cells. For someone with hyperpigmentation, you can utilize our claritone serum™ on the alternating days, always followed by applying the AHA salicylic serum afterwards. I personally use the AHA salicylic solution on top of my high potenC serum™ for ageing skin to boost collagen and fill my lines. Moisturize – most people like a creamy moisturizer like collagen renewal C’reme™ or green tea vita-E moisturizer™ - with vitamin E for the evening. In addition to your daily skin care regimen on a weekly basis, an exfoliating mask is a great idea. The retinyl enzyme treatment - with green tea, is a great way to exfoliate utilizing enzymes vs. particles. Please see my blog post on Thoughtful Exfoliation for our point of view on this. 58